Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Forum

[PoinTHwerP]

im very tempted to get one of these, but i prefer building my own,
am i right in thinking the rtr pajero has non oil dampers and no bearings?

also, anyone have any clue when the VW touareg will come out? thats the one id really like to have :D

[Doomed]

"am i right in thinking the rtr pajero has non oil dampers and no bearings?"

Yes


anyone have any clue when the VW touareg will come out?


I have seen ramblings of "summer".

[Zillon]

I am planning on getting a Jero once again, and of course, creating a custom 4-link setup as soon as I get it.

I am planning on using:

- 2 90mm steel turnbuckles for the bottom - Link: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVJ98&P=7

- 2 2.06" steel turnbuckles for the top - Link: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2544&P=7

In my mental plan, I want to attach the shocks to the lower links. In order to do this, I will need some proper-sized ball-collars to fit in the rod-ends of the shock shafts, and also some proper sized collars to keep the bottom of the shock in place. In order to fit over the rod part of the turnbuckles, what size collar would I need? I am thinking either a 1/8" collar or a 5/32" collar. Could anyone direct me as to which one would work the best? Link: 1/8" collar - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD833&P=7 5/32" collar - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD834&P=7

For the ball collars to fit in the rod-ends, and attach the shocks with, I was thinking of using these and possibly drilling the hole out to fit, if need be. Link: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM792&P=7

Thanks in advance

-Zill :cool:

[Jero]

Just bought my jero. Its great i started to go on soft dry dirt, then i got stuck. So i tryed to swap out my old E.S.C. but it got a short and started to smoke. So with the stock speed controler ive been getting stuck in soft dirt, but almost every RC does. So..I locked the rear diff, HELPED ALOT. Its a little easy to get out of tough places like rocks and mudd. But i forgot to glue the tires :mad: . So now i my rims slip inside the tire. I gotta get some glue and take off the tires and clean them and glue because i couldnt wait to play with it. I got a good deal on itto for only $170.00 from a local hobby shop :P. That beats the price of Tower Hobbies. Couldnt find any on ebay. Iam looking at getting oil filled shocks. But the top off the shocks arent screwed in. It uses a ball joint, i guess for more flix. Which is good, but i dont know how iam gonna install the new shocks. Ill get some pictures soon.

- Jero

[Jero]

I got a pictures of my jero. Gonna try to get some action picutes soon

[Jero]

I got some more pictures. Sorry not action pictures, kinda forgot. (Have Lots Of Fun :rolleyes: ) I guess you can call them After Action Shots lol

[Jero]

Another

[Doomed]

Very nice!

[Jeepcrawler11]

Heres mine, its for sale if anyone is interested

http://img46.photobucket.com/albums/v142/jeepcrawler11/jero.jpg

[egdinger]

What kinda of tires and rims are those jeep?

[Jeepcrawler11]

There traxxas rims painted black a 2.2 dirt hawgs.

[extreme Pajero]

jeep did you lift the front end at all to get those tires on

[trw]

ok...i just bought my first Pajero..should come in either tomorrow or Wednesday, i would like to lock both differentails....but i will only use threadlock as a last resort....i will keep them locked for the rest of the time this truck is in my hands....as i did with my hummer and ive never needed it unlocked after that.

anyways i do also know that the two differentials on the axles arent the only ones...i do also know there is one in between the two...in the tranny i assume?

anyways....how could i obtain the G-parts tree?

[Jeepcrawler11]

Well the front fenders are cut off. There is a custom shock mount to mount 4in shocks. But its not really lifted. Just has no fenders.

[SteveK]

Zillion-
Those rods may or may not work, double check them against the lengths of the stock rods in a post of mine on the previous page.

I think a better solution, onces you have the lengths all worked out, is to use this stuff:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS020&P=7
and tap the insides with a 4-40 tap.

Mounting the shocks on the suspension links would still work, just cut out the appropriate length and thread in an extra length of 4-40 rod.

What I would do is first build everything up using long 4-40 rods, to get their lengths all correct, and then hold the shocks in place on the rods using some nuts, which make it easy to move them back and forth. When it's all set, use some dividers to get the lengths each aluminum rod will be and cut it to suit.

For rod-ends, try Traxxas' bulk set of 20 rod ends, or DuBro has some new heavy-duty ones that look nice and are worth a look. Put those on the bottom of the shocks as well. For the top of the shocks, if you make the stock shocks oil or use other Tamiya oil units, that regular ball works fine. If you use other shocks, just unscrew it and mount the shocks like you normally would.

[SteveK]

Jero-

For the top shock mounts, you can just unscrew the ball that comes in the kit and use a 4-40 or 3mm screw to mount something else. For this type of truck I would recommend something like HPI shocks, with use a metal ball top and bottom and should make for good range of motion. Associated and Losi shocks use plastic bushings which let them move a little, but not as much as HPI shocks.

[SteveK]

trw-
Nope, the diffs between the front and rear wheels are the only ones. There is an option 'torque splitter' that will fit, but it's useless off-road. There was an on-roadish version of the Cross Country (XC) chassis with an Isuzu Mu/Amigo body, for which that was probably developed. You can still find XC lowering kits on eBay for a good price, and they might be interesting to play with once in a while.

For the G-parts tree, you could try calling Tamiya, or some experienced hobby shop or mail-order place could get them. If you want the locking 'rings' for the truck, you'll need two sets as there is only one in the bag, meant for the rear diff.

[trw]

well for the G-parts tree, i tried..towerhobbies, stormerhobbies AND rc4wd.com and ofcourse my LHS....no one had it.... :( is there another part easier to obtain that could serve as a good substitute?

[Zillon]

Aye Steve, I checked the lengths you posted earlier in this thread, and converted the lengths. They are just about exactly the same length, give or take a little.

I am planning on using turnbuckles for now, cheap and easy to do. I'll work on using the 3/16 inch rod later on.

By the way Steve, thanks.

[SteveK]

Oh, ok, then those should work.

FOr the locking collars, 1/8" should fit: The smooth part of the rod isn't much larger than the 4-40 threads. I think I tried something similar with my Clod Buster, replacing the flexible red plastic link supports with tie-rods, and then running a rod from the gearcase to one of them and holding it in place with a locking collar or two.

[trw]

:D nighttime is no longer a problem

[4wdmt]

trw, details pls. any pics. in daylight?

[trw]

details? ok lol

the lights you see in the pic of my Jero above is a set of RAM lights, Lights (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZ96&P=7) and i mounted it on my bullbar using CA glue....

[Zillon]

Will they fit inside the enclosed hoop in the middle? I was looking at those lights last night, and I thought they looked pretty cool, but I don't want to hack the body up to fit em on.

I also have a set of RCNeon head/fog/taillight sets to use in conjunction, but those would require the drilling of holes in the body. With the stock Pajero body costing 53 bucks from Tamiya, that's not something I want to do.

[Janders]

**EDIT**
Don't mind me...just editing out my stupidity :D

[Zillon]

Exactly, that's why the stock body comes painted from the factory, right? ;)

[4wdmt]

now that will be cool for night driving. thanks.

[trw]

yes these lights will fit in the middle part of the bullbar, i just wanted the allumination more spread out so i could see more, thats why i put them on the outside of the center thingy.

[SteveK]

I thought about adding lights, and if I did I think I would put them either behind the front bumper, or up where the hood meets the windshield, or higher up ala Ivan Stewart's Toyota desert truck. It might not get as much light on the ground immediately in front of the truck, but it would protect them better.
http://www.baja.com/bajatym/ivan981k03.jpg

Perhaps a system like that would work best: Two in the center of the front bumper pointing slightly downward, for illuminating the area immediately in front of the truck, and then two up on the windshield to throw light further down the road.

[trw]

well heres another cool shot...btw the lights arent in a really bad position even though they seem to be, not once have i knocked one off yet.

[trw]

NO WATERPROOFING, and my Pajero will survive any height of water as long as it doesnt come up to the windshield. only once have i come close t ofrying my electronics and that was when i was driving through murky water and i didnt see a hole..... lol

[SARacer]

what i would like to see is a roof-rack with a lightbar put on it with working lights; that way, the water would stay clear from the lights, would avoid damage on frontal impacts, and would illuminate a large space and add really cool racy looks.

that would look so cool IMO

:)

[trw]

well i would do that, if i had any clue in the world how to make custom parts like that :(

[trw]

my pajero had some more fun today :D

[4wdmt]

trw, are the lights water proof? and how long does the 9v battery last for the lights?

[trw]

no there not water proof, but ive dunked em in water while they were on and it didnt do anything.

and as for batteries a MUST is that you need to use either a Duracell battery or Energizer battery (9Vs) otherwise the lights will die out in less then 30 seconds.

so far..i've had my lights running for about 1 hour approx....i use Duracell...and it says it should last a couple of hours on a 9v battery.

[4wdmt]

thanks.

[microrcdude]

NO WATERPROOFING, and my Pajero will survive any height of water as long as it doesnt come up to the windshield. only once have i come close t ofrying my electronics and that was when i was driving through murky water and i didnt see a hole..... lol
that looks awsome!!! i wish my car could do that.

[Zillon]

Very nice pics trw. I shall be getting some of my own when my 'Jero arrives here on Wednesday.

You could have still mounted the lights in the center of the bar, just make sure you direct the beam of light slightly outwards when attaching them.

Radioshack also sells a clip-type 9V battery holder made out of either steel or aluminum, and it requires a screw to mount. Works very well, I have used them on both my Rustler and my E-maxx with no problems, although I double-loop a rubber band or hair band (lasts longer, doesn't dryrot) around it for extra security.

[rpmmaxxed]

I just got my Pajero in the mail today.

Not in the best of shape, but it is a project, so its a start.


Included were NIP 4 duratrax threaded aluminum shocks, which I will not be using, so if anyone wants them let me know and well talk. other than the shocks, not much to brag about, lots of screw holes stripped, The gear mesh is rough, and worst of all, I cant figure out how to adjust it.
Also included was a basher pajero body, and a nice condition one.
^
^
Need help on that one
THings that it did not come with:

Front bumper, and whatever there is supposed to be holding the battery in place
^
^

Both were suprises to me.

Anyone that can help me please do in this field.

[creech]

Okay, so it's made by Kyosho, I thought you guys would dig this.

http://www.pbase.com/image/28979882

A cookie goes to whoever can find info on the kit at the bottom left of the page. I am a hardcore XC fan, but check out that chassis! Ground clearance baby! Nitro! Never had a Kyosho before, but that may change.

[Doomed]

I got nothin for you but I just wanted to say thats friggin cool! Thanks

[DCLXVI]

Looks like somekind of QRC based Pajero...mostly the tires are changed I would guess...

[trw]

This post needs to be deleted.

[trw]

This post needs to be deleted.

[trw]

This post needs to be deleted.

[trw]

this post needs to be deleted

[trw]

this post needs to be deleted

[trw]

this post needs to be deleted

[trw]

this post needs to be deleted.

[trw]

ok yall, admins, everyone sorry bout ALL these wastefull posts, but i had linked some images, and received word that the bandwith consumption beeing produced by the images was to great for the host, so i had to remove em, instead i uploaded em to an album for your viewing:

this weekend i went to my friend's ranch, i took my Pajero along and man did that thing perform!, it went WAY above and beyond my expectations of it, never will i buy another 4x4 again.

heres all the images in a convenient album (note: some images are old and from previous dates)

link: Click Here (http://www.rogue4x4.com/tmn_album/index.php?path=L01lbWJlcnMgUmlkZXMvVHJ3Lw==&page=1)

[SteveK]

- Gear mesh: You only have two choices, a 16 tooth pinion or a 20 tooth pinion. Mesh is fixed as there are only two holes in the motor mount. Probably best to replace the entire gear set. Don't forget that pinions are metric, so Tamiya and Robinson are the only options I know of there.

- Stripped holes: I guess just go to slightly larger machine screws wherever possible.

- Bumper: If it's just the bumper, you have a few options. One is a direct replacement, and another is to mount some kind of RPM plastic bumper for durablity. Or if you are handy you could custom make some kind of bumper or skidplate out of aluminum and/or brass.

- Battery lid: If memory serves me correctly, it's just a plate that holds the battery down, nothing special about it (I do think you need to snip off some rounded ribs inside to use side-by-side packs). You could make a new one out of fiberglass, maybe need a few spacers to line it all up.

I would call around and see who can get the parts you need, and worst-case you could call Tamiya directly and get some of them.


I just got my Pajero in the mail today.

Not in the best of shape, but it is a project, so its a start.


Included were NIP 4 duratrax threaded aluminum shocks, which I will not be using, so if anyone wants them let me know and well talk. other than the shocks, not much to brag about, lots of screw holes stripped, The gear mesh is rough, and worst of all, I cant figure out how to adjust it.
Also included was a basher pajero body, and a nice condition one.
^
^
Need help on that one
THings that it did not come with:

Front bumper, and whatever there is supposed to be holding the battery in place
^
^

Both were suprises to me.

Anyone that can help me please do in this field.

[trw]

hehe well, these were taken like 2 months ago but i guess i can post em, just a FEW of the 30 pics i took, there are better ones then these that i took, but these will do hehe

SOON: i will mount some 2.2 Proline Dirt Hawg tires, with an extra 1" lift, waterproof ESC, and a receiver box for the receiver to make that waterproof

I am also working on a custom cooling system for the motor since these larger tirees will be harder to accelerate with since the motor mount wont let me go any lower with the pinion :(

also im working on a custom roof rack which im going to mount some fog lights on.

I cant wait to see the new tires and suspension i naction since the stock components are already pretty sweet.

just take a gander:

pic1

[trw]

2nd pic

[trw]

3rd pic

[trw]

4th pic.

[4wdmt]

nice clear pics trw. what camera are you using? the last one looks realistic, if not for the antenna, maybe you can conceal it a little.

[trw]

they would look even better if i didnt have to shrink them :)

my camera is a Kodak EasyShare CX6330 3.1 Megapixels digital camera with 256mb storage card.

[trw]

ok here i tried...i erased the body post clips and antenna, i say that looks pretty darn real if you ask me :D

you know the admins oughta start an "image editing contest" to see whos truck or car looks the most real, that would be fun :p

[trw]

oh yea, i forgot this pic with the others above.

[trw]

heres my Pajero next to my Hummer and both trucks with their lights on.

[edit] i was shaking the camera a lil when i took the pic, thats why its a lil blury.

[trw]

i just finished my custom roof rack which will be housing a spare tire :D

[trw]

2nd pic.

[trw]

also how do i remove the stickers? I tried but man are they stuck on good.

[banditdrifter]

I'm thinking about lifting mine a little, and locking the rear. My friend was thinking about custom intalling a winch, and we are in the design process right now. Any ideas, feel free.

[SARacer]

maybe an electric RC plane motor, (one of the little ones, for little planes) that runs on a miniature ESC. I think you would need a third chanel.

[SteveK]

Tamiya gearboxes:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHA26&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHA27&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHA28&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHA29&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRK15&P=0

Tamiya microswitches:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBFS1&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBFS3&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB25&P=0


Try one of the above for a winch assembly in the front of the truck. I have the 2nd and 3rd gearboxes, and they should fit in the front of the chassis.

The one I would recommend is that last one, because it has a 6 optional ratios, including a sky-high 1300.9:1 ratio. You want a really high numerical ratio to get lots of torque and have a slow retract.

You would probably need a 3rd channel, but if you can find one of those 'mixers' for using reverse on nitro or operating a dump bed on the Tamiya Mammoth dump truck, that might work.

I had the idea for a small-scale dump truck to use a couple of microswitches operated by the steering servo or one wired in with a Y-connector. When the steering was operated normally it wasn't activated, but when you hit the DRO (Dual-rate override) switch, the 2nd servo went far enough to activate the switches.That wouldn't work with a winch because the steering would travel one way or the other.

If you wanted to you could use a remote wire switch box from Tamiya.

You could probably just get a stock T-Maxx radio real cheap from somebody that has upgraded.

[SteveK]

http://www.tamiya.com/english/news/news0407/news5.htm

The Race Touareg is in the Tamiya 'July news' section of their website, so it should be out by the end of the year.

[trw]

wow those gearboxes look like a perfect aplication for an onboard winch, although making an onboard winch brings up some issues, suchas the remote switch thing which i beleive steveK solved very well, but also how are you going to house it?

you dont want a bulky box with a tangled up spool hanging out everywhere, i mean how would you house this in the front to look like a scale winch without looking to nasty?

plus, how would you get it to turn two different ways?

[SteveK]

The gearboxes should fit between the front frame rails pretty well. All I would have outside of the body is a tunnel or hole for the line (Try some high-test fishing line) and some kind of a guide that kinda sorta looks real. The entire gearbox and spool and everything would be inside the body. If absolutely you should mount it in the very back and just run guides for the cable across the chassis up to the front.

To get to to move both ways you'd need either a reversing ESC or two micro switches, one moves it forward, the other goes reverse. I think the ESC would make the most sense.

[SteveK]

For a wired control I would use this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBFR1&P=0
and then have a small WS Deans connector or something accessable in the back of the truck, and then have some long (Maybe 6 feet so you can stand back and watch it) wires going to the hand control. You can stick the control into your pocket and just plug it in when you need it.

Or you could mount that in the truck as well and have servos operate the sticks. It's a pretty big box but I'm sure there's a lot of empty space and space for batteries, so you could just use the potentiometer assemblies from the control body.

[DCLXVI]

You could modify a servo for endless turning...it's quite easy although I can't remember how to do it...you shouldn't need a very torquey servo either, you just have to have the reel really small...

[trw]

well, i took the headlights off my front bumper and cut holes into my body where the ehadlights would normally be, i hotglued the headlights onto the body, now i have regular headlights.

[trw]

I also decided to chop up the troublesome bulky front bumper, i chopped off the two sticks poking out on the sides, cause well they were just getting in the way, i cut off the "loop" and hot glued it to the bumper right in front of the grill.

then i left the remaining bumper on.

now my plan is that im going to hang 2 fog lights to the bar in front of the grill
and mount 2 more fogs lights on the lower bumper.

then mount another 2 fog lights on the top of the truck right above the windshield.....therefore making a total of 4 pairs of lights.

then added with an extra 1 inch lift with larger tires and new rims, and waterproof electronics. Cant wait till i get this all done, my dream truck is taking form

also im making plans for a trailer to haul my TC3 on.

[Zillon]

Hm, totally forgot about this thread after I got my Pajero.

Anyways, here are a few pics.

Click HERE (http://p221.ezboard.com/fteammayhemrcclubfrm39.showMessage?topicID=10.topi c) for more pics.

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/jeromay2913.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/jeromay2914.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/jerojune181.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/jeroelecs.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/Pajero4-link3.jpg

Modifications:
- Custom rear 4-link suspension
- Custom motor fan setup
- Custom water-resistant ESC/Receiver box
- Fully outfitted with ball bearings
- Associated links
- GS Racing 3mm locknuts
- Traxxas X-long Big-bore rear shocks
- Traxxas Long Big-bore front shocks
- Team losi 3.5" pink rear spings
- Traxxas red big-bore springs, cut to fit front suspension
- Traxxas rod ends
- Du-bro brass plated collars
- Socks4Shocks shock socks
- Decal removal
- Sanded sidewalls on tires, letters scraped off

_______________

trw - The decals are VERY easy to remove, just takes some time and some patience. The adhesive is strong, but it leaves no residue whatsoever, so they just peel right up with some pulling.

[trw]

thanks for the decal tip....already have some pulled off.

now for a trw tip

i know some of you have problems with the steering becoming sticky.

that can be easily fixed.

pull out the steering peice that goes through the chassis to the steering components below.

put grease all around it, stick it back in and turn it a lil bit, your steering should now be smooth and free.

[trw]

man there has to be an easier way to remove these damn stickers then by hand, i got some of them off but now my fingers are so sore, i cant touch the knife anymore without them hurting real bad.

isnt htere liek any kind of liquid or something that can make them weak, or will i need a frigin jack hammer? man these are the biggest pain in the rear.

i wish i could just buy another clear Pajero body, but Tamiya has to be so frigin exclusive with all their stuff, only way to get it is either off ebay or order strait from the manufacture. :mad:

[DCLXVI]

Try really warm water...

[Zillon]

Blow dryer might work as well to loosen the adhesive up.

When you remove the front fender decals, make sure you take an Exacto knife around the edge of the headlight decal where the fender decal meets the headlight, or you'll pull the headlight off with the fender decal.

TRW - what did you use for your roofrack? I'm looking to put one on my pajero myself, so I can mount another spare tire on the roof.

[Combatcm]

I lost my digicam, it's somewhere around here.

Yesterday I jerry rigged a 4 link, but today I bought over $60 of new stuff. I bought tons of screws, turnbuckles, nuts, and other small hardware. My main goal was to make a 4 link similar to zillions. The feature I liked was how you used collets to keep the shock on the link. Right now the suspension is perfect and it doesn't even rattle sideways. Since the rear is raised quite considerably, I used my extended front body posts to keep the body level.

For a non scale look I bought 2 trac ta gator tires, the proline ones with the huge lugs, for extreme hill climbing. I was going to get 2 for the front, but I didn't want to spend 20 bucks and the lugs will probably scrape the fender.

Yokomo diff grease is purely awesome, perfect for general scale crawling. It gives just a little bit, but doesn't unload completely. If is was 2wd, even if a wheel was in the air, it would be thick enough to pull the car along with just one wheel. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNK5&P=7 Buy it, it is really good. I'm going to order a bunch of tubs. It can fill about 2 rear diffs, or 1-1.5 front diffs.

I actually used this when I used my stampede for off roading, as long as both wheels touched, it moved.

I bought a $25 rotostart a while ago that I never used, I cracked it open and it had a super torque 540 motor inside. I thought it was 550, but the can is the same size, I'll have to double check though. It's got one of those built in fans on the armature.

[Zillon]

Keep us posted on the Roto-start motor.

A motor with a fan in it and added torque would be an added plus for me. I don't need a whole lot of speed, but I do need power and cooling.

I did construct a how-to on constructing a 4-link rear. Check it out HERE. (http://p221.ezboard.com/fteammayhemrcclubfrm39.showMessage?topicID=11.topi c)

[Dongskie Pinoy]

I am contemplating really well on getting that Pajero Rally Sport by Tamiya, my budget set me back a few more months to getting my hands on that cute 4-wheeler.

Meanwhile, I'll have some fun with this first.

[Dongskie Pinoy]

And this is 10-times bigger and more difficult to clean... specially when it gets muddy!

[Zillon]

Very nice Paj', love that color. :D

[Combatcm]

What got me hooked on pajeros was their appearance of the mini in Gran turismo 2. If they were only in the US. I wouldn't mind the 50hp.

[Janders]

huh? I'm confused..

[SteveK]

There is a smaller version of the Pajero sold overseas. It looks like the big one but is much smaller. I read an article on them in Road & Track years ago.

[Combatcm]

Pajero mini...It's about 3/4 the length of the 3 door

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/PRODUCTSS/image/pajeromi_a.gif

We all recognize this one...Its called the pajero 3 door

http://www.east-siberia.ru/~nordvik/images/Pajero3.jpg

The montero is the american version

http://www.carbrochurespassion.i8.com/mitsubishi/c01mit.jpg

[Combatcm]

I picked up a few stuff today. If anyone uses wide offset traxxas wheels, they know that the wheel nut only threads half way. Well, I bought 2 new duratrax front rims, along with 2 sets of trac ta gator tires. The duratrax wheel hex indent is much shallower, allowing the stance to be set wider. Also, the wheel nut threads in all the way. With the trac ta gotor tires it's nearly unstoppable. I mostly climb up leaf covered hills, like woods and they perform very well, perhaps the best. The only thing that I don't like very much is the amount of steering right I have to do. While accelerating, the torque always twists the car to the left.

I also picked up a little motor fan and heatsink combo. Although the whole unit doesn't fit on the motor, I unscrewed the fan off and mounted it so the side of the motor. If you look to the right of the motor, you'll notice a bit of space, I screwed the fan on the side of the chassis and put a hole right on the side for intake. The fan has a plug that goes right into the receiver. The fan is really powerful for it's size. The whole job looks factory, as does my 4 link, just the way I like it.

I currently use a sprint ESC that is horrrifying to look at. My next step is to get a new ESC. I was looking at the MC230CR, or the new novak XRS, both feature the double pump brake, which is excellent for hill descents.

tires...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT93&P=7
Wheels...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD424&P=7
Motor fan and heatsink...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHAZ7&P=7

Oh yea, I spent a little while trying to figure something out. I noticed that if you had locked just your rear axle, the front tires would also have full traction like if they were locked. It confused me a little bit, try and figure it out yourself.

[Combatcm]

I'm blown away by the locked rear diff on my setup. It would go up hills that were more than 30 degree, up to 45. I was racing it around the track nearby and was hitting some jumps, then I was trying to crawl up a wood plank, I went backward off and fell no more than a foot, but it broke the link mount on the rear axle. I'll try to epoxy it, but I was wondering where can I order these parts?

Scratch that, they actually have it on tower. $17. It also comes with a gear cover also. After I get a new one I'm going to have to reinforce the mounts with some epoxy. It'll still hit the track. The trac ta gators provide amazing traction on the racetrack, or maybe it was the 4wd fooling me. It's kinda fun to putt around the track.

I noticed when some some weeds got cought in the spikes the gears grinded, could this be the spur/pinion mesh? I couldn't imagine any other gears in the drivetrain grinding, they could power a real car.

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Combatcm: Post some pictures!!

[trw]

ok just got a load of parts in today

1. i got my new tires and rims on! yay
2. i got my receiver box in so now my receiver is waterproof.
3. my new turnbuckles came in so now all i need is the 4 new shocks and i can give my truck that extra 1-2 inches of lift!
4. Im still trying to get those stickers off lol.
5. a few weeks ago i stuck in a "Sport Tuned" Motor a lil extra power from that stocker.

(sorry bout bad image quality)

[Combatcm]

The sport tuned motor is actually the stocker with advanced timing.

[Zillon]

Actually, I'm pretty sure the stocker is a 30 turn, and the Sport Tuned is a 20 turn.

I compared the performance of one to a Traxxas Stinger, and they were just about identical, with the Sport Tuned being a tad faster.

[trw]

well whatever it is...my Pajero has more power then that stocker motor now.

and it no longer gets stuck in deep grass...but that could be the new tires as well.

[Janders]

Lock ing the diffs makes it all but impossible to get stuck..honestly more imporatant in offroading than tire choice, or motor power.
:)

[trw]

why do you think locking the differentials was the first thing i did when i got this thing? lol i do that to all my trucks.

[Combatcm]

I tried locking just the front a while ago, the front shafts bit the dust after a run or two. You can see them bent horribly a few pages back. I locked the rear and had no trouble yet, even after 10 runs or so.

If you have that hotter motor, watch that front, the dogbones might bend.

I still really suggest using a roto start motor.

I really need to find my camera...

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Hi Guys!

I finally joined the bandwagon... :)

I need your best solution to remove this layers of paint on this Pajero Metaltop model without totally ruining the body...

Here's a pic...

[dabait]

Depends on the paint formulation... for acrylics and enamels, oven cleaner spray or Castrol Super Clean work... I've also heard that Simple Green works.

I prefer the Castrol product... I've used it to strip other Tamiya hardbodies, and it doesn't harm the plastic in any way... though it will strip the 'chrome' from plated parts. It's environment friendly, though gloves and eye wear are still important.

If it's lacquer, I have no idea... I've never had to strip lacquer. Most lacquer thinners I know of would attack the plastic... perhaps with careful application, it'd work. The risk is deforming, pitting, or dissolving the plastic.

[SteveK]

Automotive brake fluid works as well.

I wouldn't sweat damaging the chrome: With Alclad chrome paint you can 're-chrome' just about anything you want. A lot of model guys completely strip their chrome-plated pieces, so they they sand and trim and otherwise work on them without worry, and then spray them with Alclad and get a great finish as well.

[dabait]

Yep... forgot about that one. In fact, that may well work on lacquers... I know it will take off normal automotive paint (don't ask me how I know that).

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Thank you very much guys for the suggestions, the automotive brake fluid is readily available and I'll go for it first, the Castrol Super clean is a good idea too, but I'll have to look for it.

I really have no idea what type of paint was used on this one, but I have a good guess that this is one of those can-type spray paints around the groceries..

I'll keep you posted guys with my developments!

Thanks again!!

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Oh and by the way, can someone please post a photo of the modified rear 4-link system? I got crossed-eyed looking for it on the entire thread..

thanks!!

[Zillon]

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/pajero/Pajero4-link3.jpg

There ya go.

[Dongskie Pinoy]

Thanks Zillion for the photo...

I have started dipping the bodyshell into a pan of brakefluid, it took about 3-hours partly submerged to have this result.

I helped speed-up the process by scrubbing the paint to expose the inner layers of the body... unfortunately there was 3 layer of color on the body, black, red and the last white top-over job to cover-up everything.. It was difficult though to scrub them off.

Here is a disturbing picture of how it looks like now...

[dabait]

Slow going! With the Castrol Super Clean (found at auto-parts stores), you get about the same results in that time. I'd just soak parts overnight, and then the paint would just slough off. I had to use a plastic bristle brush to help the paint out of the nooks-n-crannies.

[SteveK]

Brake fluid does work, but it works best if you completely submerge the part, and you have to keep it in an airtiight container: Otherwise the fluid loses it's potency. It's easy enough to do model car parts, just get a shoebox-size Tupperware bin a couple of bottles of brake fluid and fill it up.

With a big R/C body, I would get a container large enough for the whole body, and then just put an inch or two of fluid on the bottom, doing one side at a time.

The longer it soaks, the easier it comes off. And some kind of spray, either an airbrush with water/alcohol, or compressed air, or even a small squirt bottle with alcohol in it, really helps getting into the nooks and cranniers. It's worth it to spend some time getting into all those little places with Q-tips and toothbrushes and whatever else.

[adult_squid]

Does anybody know where i can buy those pajero tires seperately?

[Zillon]

Right HERE. (http://www.rcrock.com/shopx/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=21798970x17182&session=40f02de5431ea03a&L=eng&P=5805481)

29.99 for 4 tires. Not cheap, but at least you can get ahold of them.

[adult_squid]

thanks zillon
do you know where i can get the wheels?

[DCLXVI]

Have you tried to TowerHobbies? Sometimes you have to search for the Tamiya part number...

[Dongskie Pinoy]

SteveK: I agree, I'll have to dip the body part-by-part, I started off with the roof and it cleared well, except for the sides when the fluid lost its potency.

I am making progress, it would feel really good when this gets cleaned up..

Thanks!!

[adult_squid]

can you use regular touring car wheels with the tires?

[Doomed]

Yes, regular touring car wheels fit.

[4wdmt]

hey guys, the tuoreg is up on tamiya english website. it seems its going to be released anytime in the near future. the good thing is its on kit form, with oil shocks and optional locking rear diffs part, just like the old 'jero.

[adult_squid]

26 or 24mm?

[Doomed]

26mm work great...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000386447&I=LXNV38&P=K

[trw]

I'd suggest getting better tires instead of the stock ones.

after driving around a long time with these new Proline Dirt Hawg 2.2s the stock tires seem poor in all areas.

The prolines have sky high grip and extremly good self cleaning, plus they are nice and soft so they run well on rocks as well, and they dont overheat the motor as badly as the stock ones do.

(yes i did some testing with this theory) stock tires made the motor produce more heat then the new Prolines did.

and will the brake fluid idea work on hard lexan bodies with paint on em? like the stock Pajero body, cause I'd like to repaint it.

[SteveK]

Only one way to find out...

You could always snip off a tiny piece, like from the fender or under the window decal (Just use some black Monokote for windows later) and try it in brake fluid.

I wish I had a set of the narrow Dirt Hawgs, but I bought the wider ones and the HPI wheels before I even had the Pajero. I think I bought them for some kind of rally-to-truck conversion, but I can't remember now. The wide ones still fit, but are just a hair too wide to fit the stock body without a little rubbing on full compression and steering lock.

[trw]

you get rubbing? i got the widers ones to...the 2.2s and i have no problem with rubbing.....but then again im running HPI Rs4 Rally shocks which are when mixed in with the stock shock end ball cup are taller then the stock shocks.

[SteveK]

I don't think I get any rubbing, it just gets very close on the body when the suspension is bottomed out. I have just mounted them, I haven't run them yet.

[Zillon]

Has anyone found out if the brake fluid will work on stripping the stock lexan body?

I attempted to use Trinity Body Blast on my body, and it didn't work at all... makes me wonder if this is even paint that Tamiya puts on the body.

[Doomed]

I gave up on trying to strip the stock silver off of my XB body. I tried Bolink Body Wash, Trinity Body Blast, brake fluid, 3m Gum and Tar remover, denatured alcohol, nitro fuel and even a little voodoo. I managed to remove about 1/3 of the paint in some areas.

[Zillon]

Damn... really sucks that stock bodies from Tamiya are 53 bucks or so. :(

[josh222]

Are the rear axel casing metal or plastic? I am thinking of getting a Touareg and i want to know. Can the front be raised at all? i have some shocks that will fit on the rear, MT1 shocks with soft springs

[Doomed]

They are plastic. And you can grind away part of front suspension to get a few mills of clearance, but not much.

[josh222]

i have sume Rs4 3 arms that i might try to get to fo fit(mod them and raise the sucker up high

[SteveK]

Yeah, you can squeeze a little more down-travel out of the front suspension, but that's not really the way to go. If you look at the suspension, you'll see there is room under the chassis for the front wheels to go up further, but the stock shocks and fender wells do not allow that.

[josh222]

i would replace them with some longer shocks with more travel and do what zillion did with the rear nd :)

[mr_pushrod]

I can vouch for the effectiveness of changing the rear links, having followed Zillion's guide online. I did differ from his in that I changed the upper link mount on the axle to one shown online on another truck owned by a guy called Keith. I also used different shocks in the shape of some Yokomo MR4 BC rears. This has given me loads more articulation for not much work and little cost. I also had a look at the front suspension, taking a dremel to the front hubs to remove a couple of travel limiters. The upper link is now stopping increased travel which is what I shall be attacking next:D My truck also runs with a locked rear diff, front diff packed with 12,500 weight oil for an LSD effect and now a 600 size motor.

My Pajero (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=22920&sid=79)

Zillion's 4 link guide (http://p221.ezboard.com/fteammayhemrcclubfrm39.showMessage?topicID=11.topi c)

Keith's upper link mount (http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?showtopic=50)

Thanks to those who posted guides!

[josh222]

I See, will Nitro MT shocks fit in the rear? Plus how much can the front be raised?

[mr_pushrod]

I dare say they will, although I would check the size first, I believe the Yoke shocks are 3.5". I have got around 5mm more by just grinding the hubs at the front although have yet to play fully to get even more. In theory there is well over 10mm more although the more you have, the more stress there is on the front drivetrain.

[josh222]

Well i won't raise it right away, I know what i have to do to raise the front, did it with my SS. Hre is the body i want for it :D

F-350 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/62960/Vt58236.jpg)

[SteveK]

Parma makes one of those in Lexan that should fit. Won't be a nice, but it will be cheaper, lighter,and more durable.

[trw]

yes the front of the Pajero can be raised.....

i am doing it right now...

i am adding the following to raise my truck an approx. 1inch higher:

Duratrax Titanium turnbuckles
HPI RS4 Rally steering links
4" T-maxx shocks front and rear
a pair of A_arms and dogbones from an older radioshack truck.
and the stock wheel hubs and hingepins fit the A-arms perfectly

all i need now are the shocks and i can lift her....waiting for those when she is lifted i will take pics for yall.

[josh222]

Ok hurry with the work, I want to see what this will be like :)

[trw]

wow that black F-350 looks cool...might have to get me one of those.

[edit] ill be selling my electric TC-3 along with tons of spares and a comm lathe...looking to get alteast $350 - $400 for it....that much can do wonders for an offroad truck like this :D

[mr_pushrod]

Certainly look forward to seeing the front suspension mods, be interesting to see how you approach this.

[josh222]

That F-350 costs about $90 for all the parts :mad:

[SteveK]

http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=10170

http://www.parmapse.com/catpics/10170.jpg

Not quite as nice, but similar lines and size, and only $22.

[josh222]

the reason I wanted that body was because it looked really real :)

[trw]

well while im waiting for the shocks i figured ill just get a head start on the work right now....

i got the old suspension off to run into a few things....

#1 the Duratrax turnbuckles are too long...so im using HPI RS4 Rally turnbuckles now
#2 The stock ball joint is to large....so I need to get some HPI RS4 Rally ball joints.
#3 The dogbones from the radioshack truck are slightly to long...need to measure what size i need.
#4 since my A-arms im using now are slightly different i need hub spacers for the steering blocks
#5 need 4 O-rings which i will order from an RS4 3 SS

those 5 things should do it.

[trw]

o and heres a picutre of the new suspension vs stock...

left is stock right is new.....big difference

[josh222]

That looks really good :D keep us informed

[josh222]

how much will that raise the Jero by?

[SteveK]

I think you might have a LITTLE problem with dogbone clearance there......

[trw]

actually at that height no....the 2 sets of dogbones i had were to long and to short, i measured and ordered some that should fit ok....but with the others i had no problem with clearance...just need to put some O-rings in the outdrive cups for the differential....and josh right now my educated guess is 1 inch or so right now i have no idea....i will see when all my parts come in wednesday.

[mr_pushrod]

How much wider is it going to be at the front though? Why not use universals instead of dogbones?

[josh222]

ya i think CVD's or universal will work better, no dogbones poping out then

[trw]

if the front does end up being to wide, I will go back to stock front suspension..and devise a plan to replace the entire front IS suspension with an axle.....that means:

custom transfer case
custom steering
Custom front drive shaft
and some dremeling out of the front end of the chassis to add flexibility.

[mr_pushrod]

There is a guy on the scale 4x4 forums trying to convert an XC rear end to have steering to fit on the front. I'd personally be tempted to find a Robbe trial truck if you are going to be doing that much work though, solid axles both ends and the ability to get servo operated diff locks.

[josh222]

well i am going to put the touareg on hold untill after christmass, i really need a new engine for my RS4 3 TYPE SS

[Jimmy33]

Hey finally after about 10 years i have me own XC chassis

I got the Isuzu Mu body with it which will be painted a nice metalic green me thinks!

However i am wondering was it the Isuzu which was sold with lowered suspension and different wheels? Please help!

Jimmy

[mr_pushrod]

The Isuzu came with the lowrider suspension, larger chrome wheels and low profile tyres. The did however do a Type-X version of the car which ran on the standard XC chassis.

[Jimmy33]

so what till i need to transform it

I have tyres and i am thinking of buying a brken chassis jeep of one of my friends to get the parts but if i cant - what parts will a need?

[Jimmy33]

just picked up some tamiya tyres with white lettering on the side (im a sucker for white lettering!)

Where can i get some tamiya pajero wheels (or any other wheels which would fit and look good?)

[Jimmy33]

will these fit with the stock tyres?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM946&P=K

[trw]

they should.....News update on my 1' lift!

i ran into only 3 problems....Number 1: I NEED A WHOLE NEW REAR SUSPNESION lol my new shocks are so large that the stock shock mounting holes are to tucked under the axle. I think im just gonna do what Zillion did.

number 2: the wheel hubs need to be hacked on with a dremel a lil and then i should be able to complete the lift.

number 3: cant find a way to mount the ball joints to the chassis....the stock ones were to big now i ordered smaller ones but dont attach like the stock ones did.

once i get over those 3 problems....it should be complete....only thing im worried about is wheelbase width on the front.

also my new Waterproof Mtroniks ESC came in today....now i have completly 100% waterproof Radio and ESC.

[mr_pushrod]

Yup, those wheels will work, basically you need 24 or 26mm with a Tamiya hex fitment. Zillion's mod works great, do it! lol.

[trw]

well guys....after doing ALOT of work wit ha dremel finally the front 1' lift was completed...i only finished one side though....have to start on the other tomorrow....then Saturday I'll get the rear Suspension done.

pics.... :D

[trw]

This is the highest Pajero I've seen so far, and it makes me giddy that its in my hands hehe :D

[mr_pushrod]

No wonder you are having bump steer problems with the wishbones at that angle! how much wider does the car get when the suspension in compressed?

[trw]

the width increases maybe 2 or 3 centimeters...and yes the bump steer is pretty bad but if you go to scale RC4x4 site on their ofurms i posted a new design i came up with that gets rid of that and still gives full steering benefits....pretty cool

[Jimmy33]

do you guys run foam with your stock tyres off road or not?

[mr_pushrod]

I don't use foam as it lets the tyre deform more over rough terrain.

[trw]

well guys....I think this is the first Pajero in history to be lifted this high...but IM DONE!!!

[trw]

:D :D :D

[trw]

:)

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46928

[SARacer]

have you driven it like that yet?
it looks really cool

[trw]

yes...just took it out for a run this morning....still have to lock the front diff and fix the steering (screw snapped :( )

[trw]

but it ran so great....just look at this flex!

btw the truck got on the pipe under its own power...didnt need my help what so ever :D

[Jimmy33]

yay - well sort of

After stripping LOADS of paint of the body i finally got the situation where i can paint it. Down the model shop and......no green paint! bummer! :mad: Oh well red it is! :rolleyes: cant wait till my new tyres to arrrive still deciding which wheels to use - multi spoke wheels or 5 spoke both chrome i think the 5 spoke as its more likly to see a 4x4 with 5 spokers but i might be wrong...if anyones got any pictures please post them of the wheels and tyres with the cars!


YAY! lets go 4x4ing - no more expensive body damage! :D :p

[josh222]

TRW that looks sweet :D

[Jimmy33]

hey guys hows life - i LOVE my Mu - i hope my g/f doesnt get jealous!
Im in a good mood - good A Level results! YAY! As and Bs wonderful!

I love you all!

[josh222]

ok there :eek: anyway that looks good trw

[Jimmy33]

Ok, where online can i get the lexen pajero im scratching paint off the Isuzu body off sooo fast! HELP! and what body parts do i need to mount it

[trw]

for the Pajero body, you'd have to order that from the manufature itself....Its no longer available....plus its $50

[Jimmy33]

Oh dear - ebay here i come! LOL :)

[josh222]

lol, you can also use the f-350body of the jugernaut

[josh222]

here it is F-350 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/62960/Vt58236.jpg)

[Jimmy33]

how easy is it to fit?some piccys of my new baby! bit muddy though :rolleyes: i wonder why :D

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Ebay007.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Ebay008.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/777726/Ebay009.jpg

[Combatcm]

Yeah..., but show pictures of your RC car :)

[Jimmy33]

that is what my sister said when she saw the shots! lol :D
thanks!

[Zillon]

Hm, for some reason, I keep getting logged out and not receiving notification E-mails for this thread. I'll figure it out sooner or later.

Glad you guys like my little 4-link how-to. Has anyone found any issues at all with it? If so, let me know, I'm always open to suggestions and adaptations.

Jimmy33 - Beautiful Isuzu you have there, I want to pick up a Mu body myself, being that I am an Isuzu guy. Looks good with all that mud caked on there. ;)

Anyways, on to the real story here... I finally got ahold of an unpainted lexan Pajero body from mikemann over on R C M T. 30 bucks shipped with decals, great deal, especially when comparing with the Tamiya price for just the body. :eek:

I started masking the body Monday night, finished masking Tuesday afternoon, and started spraying that night. I finished spraying the paint tonight, and I am contemplating on tinting the windows or not. I am using Tamiya paints, PS-5 Black, PS-12 Silver, PS-15 Metal Red, PS-31 Smoke, and PS-37 Translucent Red, this time around. For the past 5 years of my involvement in this hobby, I have been using Pactra paint. Never again will I use Pactra polycarbonate paint again after using the Tamiya paint. What a difference in quality control! :D

Now, for the real MEAT of this post... the pictures! :cool:

After 3 coats of pearl red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/newbody1.jpg

Pearl red backed with 2 coats of metallic red
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/newbody2.jpg

After removing the 2-tone masks
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/newbody3.jpg

After spraying the silver
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/newbody4.jpg

[pro-4x4]

Hi All Well this site and thread here has been a god send for me! As I am in New Zealand and I too have a Pajero, Well it's been on it's way for a fews days now and should be here soon. Your info on your 4-link set up Zillon was fantastic as I have got all those parts from tower hobbies (wow what a shop!) I havn't even got it yet and already getting bits for it. What I have picked from this forum is that the diff lock part is hard to find? I have found one here in NZ, But if they are the same as the new VW Touareg there is a guy on e-bay who in the next few day's is going to list the g-parts bag for this truck, if they are the same and has the diff lock with it? I'm not sure but just letting you guy's know that they will be there, His e-bay user name is "walawalastore" Small bit of info hope it helps someone as much as all the guys here have helped me in getting tips and what works and won't. I 'll also have to get a camara!! What I have also got for the rear suspension is a set of TLT suspension stay's as I thought I would have to use these to make make the 4-link end? may still use them or try it. Parts here are even harder to find then over your way and cost heaps! example a pair of Alloy oil shocks start at $60.00 for two! So e-bay and the net is were I get all my parts from even with the exchange rate it's worth it. Any way looks like a great job done on your painting Zillon, It may be to flash to bash about with? Looking to see the end result.
I have one question if any one call tell me- What rims would I need to run with the yokohama Geolander tires? I have no idea what fits what in the way of other brands to Tamiya. Black rims if possible.

Cheers Guys!

[pro-4x4]

:) This is first pic I found that gave me The idea with using TLT stay's.

[pro-4x4]

This is my other truck I use when my batterys run flat!!! Plus it has a bit more grunt! Well you'd hope so!

[Jimmy33]

any one know where i can get the decals for my Isuzu?

[josh222]

try contacting tamiya

[Zillon]

Pro-4x4, thanks. I have recieved alot of compliements on the paintjob so far, and I absolutely love the body. As for the Geolandars, you will need to wide-offset 2.2 wheels, such as these. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXA1&P=7) There are other colors available, including chrome, black, and yellow, but I like the grey and black best. Click here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWZ9&P=7) for the black wheels.

Now, for the final update on the Pajero... it is done. Decals are on, protective coat off, last coat of tint added, and the license plates are on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/redjero1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/redjero2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/redjero3.jpg

I don't remember showing you guys my other addition... Phantom Phabrication skidplates, which can be ordered here. (http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?showforum=28)

I got the very first skidplate ever made, and I have suggested a few things to Rich, aka PhantomBruiser on R C M T and S4x4RC, such as chopping off the back of the skid for an increase in rear clearance and bending the rear edge up so rocks don't hang the vehicle up. He made those modifications to later skid versions, and since I got the first one, I have made those mods myself, with a trusty dremel and a pair of visegrips, so my skid may not look as clean as his final versions. I also ordered a custom pair of rocker protectors, so I don't bang up the new body. ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroskids5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroskids6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroskids7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroskids8.jpg

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Zillon for the info on the wheels ;) Yeah the black look good indeed.

Wow your paint job looks beautiful! Looks like you could swim in the paint. You must be wrapped with the finished product?

Good idea with the skid plates, My Pajero turned up yesterday and it does have so grunt, I don't think a motor upgrade is really needed? (YET) Would a ESC give you more control to crawl? With the MSC it's bloody hard to go slow! Back to the skid plates, Yes last night I was looking into something to stop you getting haug up! Thought of folding the body right under to the chassis and clipping it there? Now seeing that at lest to make some side plates to stop you from getting caught up on the sills.

I'll let you know when my 4-link parts arrive and have set that up and let you how she goes ;)

[Zillon]

Everyone who sees the paintjob is thrilled with it, I absolutely love it. It's really something in the sunlight.

An ESC is an excellent upgrade for this truck. I personally use a Futaba MC230CR ESC for mine, along with the stock silvercan motor, and I love it. Small size and reliable. Plus, I am a Futaba fan myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroaug4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroaug5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroaug9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroaug10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeroaug12.jpg

[josh222]

nice zillion :)

[4wdmt]

the last one is scale looking. very nice n' clean paint job.

im sorry i didnt follow the whole thread, just want to ask: where were you able to buy the new poly body and for how much? thank you.

[josh222]

You have to buy them from Tamiya, there $50USD

[josh222]

also the Jugernuat body fits

[4wdmt]

thank you. do you have the product/item no. for the body? does it only come with head/rear light stickers? how about the side mirror and the rally stickers? thanks.

[pro-4x4]

Hey Zillon I ended up with a Apex ESC. New but very cheap for here. Fully proportional with reverse and all that stuff. $60 bucks! The basic Tamiya ones start at $120.00! Sooooo I could not turn it down

After one battery though the truck I noticed a grinding missing sound coming from the rear diff! Taking it apart the 3 little screws holding the carrier together were lose!! I did read an early thread about checking all the screws! So they don't do them up very well-the guy at the factory must have a limp wrist!!

So a complete strip down and then rebuild with BB's and thread lock and Dff lock (s) and more lube should bring peace of mind. My 4-link parts should be here soon (oh hurry up!)

[Ironeater]

hi guys, I have a couple of questions. What's a better servo than the stock one that will fit with no problems but that has a bit more power? My stock one never worked so great, didn't seem to have enough power to turn the tires good. I want one with a bit more power. Also, any motor recomendations? I have everything stock right now. All I need is an esc to get it running again (the other one fried ).

[mr_pushrod]

For servos I'd have a look at the Hitec 645MG, loads of torque, metal gears and ballraced. They also do a version with carbonite gears but it won't be quite as quick. As for motor, I am using a Graupner Speed 600 which gives boatloads of torque. You will have to grind the motor shaft down to get it in though.

[Ironeater]

will 3" shocks fit front and rear without any problems? I'm thinking of ordering some duratrax ones that already come assembled along with a novak esc.

[pro-4x4]

Well I have just put Zillon's 4-Link into my truck! Very easy to do. The travel in the rear is bloody brilliant now, If you do not intend to lock your diff's this will give you more forward progress.......heaps more!! :D I used everything Zillan said other than the shocks, I ended up with Duratrax competition shocks 4" rear and 3'' in the front. (needed the top bushes for the shock mount as they didn't came with them) The front 3''shock I changed the bottom mount and used the Pajero's original bottom shock mount as it was longer than the duratrax one's.

Now for thought's on this set up is bloody fantastic!! In real trems this is more a A-arm setup. The only thing that I found was that I had some sideway's movement in the diff, Don't know if anyone else has had the same?? But to fix it I took the ball out of the centre rod end used on the diff and placed two washers there instead........WOW Now solid rear with no sideways movement.

Shocks.....By sliding them up and down on the rod you change the spring setting, the closer to the diff the softer it will be and felx nicely, Higher up you go with the same spring rate it get's harder because of the angle on the force to make it work. (This is only my finding's )

Body.... Yes the ass sit's higher now but have raised the front body mount's by 8mm, :cool: This looks fine to me, just still slightly higher in the rear. Front wheel arch will be trimed mainly by the little mudflap as this is hitting the tire at lock.

Diff lock... This I will put in next and can see it climbing it's self silly!!! With all that rear travel it will be unstopable!! :D

Must thank you Zillon for showing us how you did it much appreciated. The side ways movement was my problem that was a easy fix. Did you find that Zillon? :rolleyes:

PLAY PLAY PLAY PLAY TIME :D

[Rally Dude evo2]

Hey everybody, well I have been following this thread for some time with the intention of buying a Pajero, and since each time I look at your pics it tempts me to "borrow" my parrents credit card and order one from tower. I would have probally bought one by now with my own earnings but I've been layed off all summer :mad: . But now I have my job back at which I daydream the entire time of owning a pajero. Anyway I was looking around and I found the new Touareg for sale with the CC-01 chassis and I about craped my pants. I have now decided that I will buy it but I have a few questions: Where can I get those geolander tires? How can I get an Isuzu body? and how simple is it to adjust the length?

Thanks and I can't wait!!

[pro-4x4]

Hi Rally Dude, I am new at this, but as far as I know the chassis is the same as the VW, Even the pajero you can make the wheel base longer as all the mounts are there which the VW uses,( The only thing you need would be a longer drive shaft!) Very easy to do! The Tires you can get at Tower Hobbies, (don't know how yet to put a link in here?) But type in Yokohama geolander in the "search" and it will take you right to them.

Hope this helps.....................Isuzu body I don't know.

[pro-4x4]

Well I have been playing all day and night with the new rear suspension and broke a rear shock mount :mad: This is due to the fact that when the shock is right up it has been hitting the collar and bending the mount, :rolleyes: So I have used the mount from the front shock and taken the rear coller off as the shock will not move backwards so there is nothing to hit on.(hence why it snaped) If it snaps again I will use a rodend as I put one on and you just have to trim a very very little of the hex to slide the spring mount on,
I have now the diff lock in the rear and it climbs very easy, Will put the front soon. :rolleyes: Also have lifted the front body mounts by 16mm now and trimed of the front mudflap level with the sill. :cool:
I don't know the spring rate that comes with the Duratrax comp shocks, but must on the soft side, if you had harder srings it wouldn't max the rear right out, but hey I want all the travel I can get! :D But I want the front to be softer so it can max out before it starts to lift the the chassis.
The only thing that i wish is that the tires were made from a softer compound so they would felx more,

Hmmmm There doesn't seem be may peolpe writing in here telling about there experience with there trucks? :rolleyes: Is every one on Holiday! Hope to get some pics and show you guys.....have to find a camara!!

[Combatcm]

Mines good. I never used, but would think would work great are dirt works tires running without foam.

As far as tires are concerned, I use trac-ta-gator tires on duratrax offset front rims. The hole in the traxxas rims are very wide and the nut only screws in 2 turns. In the duratrax rims, it screws in all the way and then some.

Anyone know of the least overheating prone motor, before my ESC blew the motor temped at over 200 degrees, even with my integral motor fan...ouch. Don't drive in grass.

[Zillon]

Sorry guys, I was taking a little vacation in New Jersey and running the Pajero a bit.

I grabbed quite a few pics, and also locked my rear diff while I was gone. Much improved, should have done that on day one. However, I don't suggest locking the front diff unless you want any handling it has now to be absolutely gone when you lock the front. Plus, you will start bending dogbones.

I'll post some of the pics in a few.

[Zillon]

Alright. Pic time!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerosept1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerosept4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerosept9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerosept11.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerosept17.jpg

Go HERE (http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?showtopic=303) for more pics!

[pro-4x4]

Great shots there!

Yes I think your right about the front diff been locked, It also puts the servo under more stress as you turn the wheels there is no slip to allow for the wheel speed diffenrce. You could get a high torque servo but your steering shafts would have to be beefed up as well........then there is the alxes to do as well! (dogbones)

[pro-4x4]

Yep a ESC is the best mod you can for this truck! the control you have now is great for crawling. Just got some little cooling fans of e-bay for 99c each, Going to fit them in on the esc and motor, Man they get hot just crawling around! Also picked up a JCE heatsink with fan which may need some mods to fit it. I think I will run them on a 9v battery and own switch which I intend to mount on the underside of truck. Thought of making some kind hood or roof scoop to suck cool air in so it's not just moving hot air around inside the body, or vent it out? not sure yet. I'll post a pic of the JCE

[pro-4x4]

:d Will need to make some mods, But seems to have good reviews, Better than Reedys one.

[Combatcm]

My long awaited pictures

Body is level, but the chassis isn't. The tires are a great set with the car and no rubbing.

[Combatcm]

Too bad articulation is best when the car is broken!

[Combatcm]

Don't jump this car, this was done after hitting the face of the middle bump in a triple. Hoever I did run it the same way for 3 or 4 runs, and after rolling down hill and such. Don't think its a durability issue, just a breaking point, something has to give.

[pro-4x4]

Do you have a spare Diff? If you need one there is a guy on e-bay who has a store, walawala_com type this in the search for members and then go to items for sale, He has the diff for $9.44 chassis for $14.84 and g-parts bag for $7.29. Plus more!! There is another with the bodies for the pajero jr-rc with decal set for $45.00. Better hurry on some of there as the last lot sold out within a day!! :eek:

I think last I said this I put the wrong user name, :rolleyes: Well it was close but still wrong ;)

Got some alloy hubs coming and some new front universal shafts. Got heaps of spares now as this same guy above has been selingl all the parts for the Touareg. diffs front hubs axles etc hes bloody brilliant and service is fantastic. :D

[pro-4x4]

Hey Combatcm What have you done to your front suspension? In mods to it.

Cheers

[daan]

Hi everyone, since I'm new around here, let me introduce my pajero. It's a pajero with a rigid hull (one of ABS) painted yellow as a resque vehicle. It has stainless steel 4 link backaxle setup, aluminium shock mounts on the back, powered by a 720BB torque engine on 10 cells (12 volts). The engine is mounted in the back and drives the drivetrain via a extra set of universal joints (same set as is used to power the back axle) and a home made bearing block fixed in the space of the original enginemount.
Max. speed is 4km/h since the engine has a top rotation speed of only 5500 tpm. The 720BB engine has a torque ring and is a 7 pole engine, using 5 amps/ hour max. On an average 1500mamp battery it will run for over a hour. Engine is controlled with a cheap 20 amp prologic electronic speed control which results in an almost standstill as lowest speed. (literary turning the wheels a few degrees if necessary.) steering is still done with a standard servo, will be upgraded to a higher torque one soon. The power of the steering servo is a bit on the weak side at the moment.
I'll try to get some pictures to go with it.

[daan]

With this a few pictures of my pajero and the setup with the 720bb torque engine.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4d734b3127cceb6c8e619c8a50000001610
Stickers and lights still have to be added.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4d734b3127cceb6c8e606498a0000001610
The engine setup
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4d734b3127cceb6c8e607c8bb0000001610
The underside of the vehicle.

The same setup is used in a rtr pajero from a friend of mine and lasts for more then a year now. The wear on the universal joints in this setup is minimal and when using the original motormount as mount for the bearinghouse the wear in the drivetrain is not heavier then in original setup.
Torque is endless :) .

[pro-4x4]

Awesome set up Dean.

[daan]

the best thing is that the engine only costs about 20 euro's and can be used with the cheapest electronic speedcontrol's available. The whole thing sets you back for about 60 euro's. (Motor, speedcontrol and universal joints) and the result is better than the regular truck puller engine (5500 rpm and only 3 poles) with a high frequency speed control (which is usually more expensive). The major drawback is the extra weight of the batteries (runs on 7,2 volts as well, but much slower) and the high placement of the bigger motor which won't fit in the place of the 540 style engine.

[pro-4x4]

Could you place a battery pack right up the front to help even the weight out? Looking at the pic you two packs is that right?

[daan]

Yes the battery pack is in 2 pieces. 1 of 6 cells, one of 4. (10 cells in total.) I used to have the 4 extra batteries on the front side, but it only helped to keep the front shocks too far down. I try to keep the shocks as weak as possible, because it helps to keep the wheels on the ground when crawling. The setup which I have now is more satisfying.

[trw]

whao that radio has alot of channels :D

[Combatcm]

I have done nothing the my front suspension, just added the duratrax gold shocks.

[pro-4x4]

I guess big wheels makes it look high, Thought you may have lifted the front up.

Great ground clearance.

[Combatcm]

Those tires are great, its something to try, it can go up insane hills. I will get some videos of it soon when I fix it.

It can go up big gravel hills. Too much fun.

[trw]

have yall ever actually tried lifting the front as well?

[pro-4x4]

Looking forward to the videos. Yes I'm thinking about some big tires, Zillon gave me the link for the rims to go with the Yoko Geolanders, but been spending money on other little bits. But they are what I will get when I go for the big tires!

God.........I have to buy a camera..........but first! have to stop spending money on this little TRUCK!!
(sorry camera....Truck win's)

[biggusditchus]

I would love to find a way of fixing the front end properly, have managed to raise it about 10mm each side with some grinding away of plastic which improves it vastly but would love more.

Here are pics of my truck and mods so far..

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img280_15092004001733_1.jpg
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img280_15092004001733_5.jpg

I know it isnt a Pajero shell, but it is an xc chassis and i need a different shell for running.

[josh222]

nice

[trw]

lol...raising the front is easy.... http://www.rogue4x4.com/tmp/high1.jpg the only problem is that the dogbones rub against the outdrive cups....so it would be nice if someone could invent a way to get the power to the wheels without the use of dogbones <<< ive been pondering that one for quite sometime now.

[pro-4x4]

Hey trw So how did you do it and what parts are used?

[josh222]

he used a old Radio shack truck

[trw]

lol...sorta...

i used the A-arms from one but i can get you the measurements from it if u want.

i also used the hingepins from it to, to attatch it to the chassis and hub, i had to use shrink wrap tube on the hub opening cause it was to big, i used TC3 hub spacers to keep the hub from moving about, i had to trim the A-arms to clear the shocks and i also had to trim the hubs for clearance of the dogbones. I used some adjustable sprint tie rods with an RS4 rally ball cup on one end to attatch to the hub where i put an RS4 ball joint. and i just extended the factory steering links.

i even came up with a way to eliminate bump steer but i never got to actualy try it.

[pro-4x4]

Looking at the front I think by grinding off the limits that stop the travel down you will gain a bit, But your shock will limit the down ward travel, longer shocks will work but for the extra say 10mm you may lose that in upward travel because the shock body will be longer? I have Duratrax 3" on the front I think by putting a longer shaft in the shock may get the extra travel without losing upward travel. There is enought room inside the shock body to get away with it. I'll try that and let yous know but will have to get the longer shaft for the shock which I have to order. The other point is the top link will have to be longer and this will change the chamber.

Don't have a spare radio shack truck! or even know what it is?
Thnaks for the info guys........I'll keep you posted.

[josh222]

ok, once i get my job i am getting one of these :D

[trw]

the radioshack truck i used was a silver F-150 4x4....it was sorta like a clod...had dual 380 motors and spiked tires with fat ugly chrome wheels lol, kinda hard to tell one another since they are all like that :rolleyes:

[mr_pushrod]

Latest articulation pic of mine, now with some grinding of the front arms :D

http://www.photodump.com/direct/mr_pushrod/DSCN1263.jpg

[Ironeater]

Do any of you all have steering problems with your jeros?

[trw]

i did after i went mudding a while ago....but i simply greased the steering assembly and it worked perfectly again.

[Ironeater]

i think thats what i need to do. Clean it up and grease it. Mine just feels kinda sloppy, kinda jerky. Servo works fine

[trw]

the most important peice to grease is the peice that runs through the chassis to the underside, if u dont grease that u will never get rid of the slop.

[mr_pushrod]

The steering IMO is a lousy design with loads of slop and not enough lock. There is an aluminium, bearing supported steering post avaliable to replace the stock plastic one but it's a bit pricey at 40 euros. It's also made to order from a guy in Germany and I've heard of some massive waits before the item is delivered. Also the Z bend rod in between the two steering arms gives loads of play and would need to ideally be replaced too.

[josh222]

This is making me wnat one even more :p

[pro-4x4]

Well I lifted the front end about 6-7mm by triming the hub support frame, it now stops on the lower wishbone STOPS, :rolleyes: I think this is about the limit you can go before some major problems arise,

1/ need a longer shock than 3'' maybe 80-90mm shock lenght?
2/ Bottom wish bone angle getting to great- dogbone problem and bottom shock mount hitting on wishbone.
3/ This is the major one-top link will needs more travel, would have to change the chassis mount sideways the same as it is on the hub support. :confused:

Now I have the top link the same angle as the bottom wishbone when it hits the stops, not worth grinding them away unless you can get more travel from the top link. But it was easy to do and worth the extra travel.

Now have my alloy hubs in and universals in.

[pro-4x4]

Talking about the steering you are right Mr_Pushrod it is a lousy design, I have seen the German one, But would think you have to do the idler arm as well and sort out the Z rod. A bit of work there to fix it so it's nice and tight.

Thinking out loud here! It must be a 5mm shaft he used so what about a axle cut down with the spine used for the servo and tap the bottom for a screw??????? should be able to find something for the outer tube??????? Hmmmm.... I have not checked this idea out yet! Any thoughts on that line?

[josh222]

Would Nitro MT shocks work in the back? fully extened it is about 5" long

[pro-4x4]

I think 85mm in the front (mine are 75mm) and around 100-110mm (mine 105mm)in the back is a good setup, Longer in the back is wasted unless you cut the chassis wheel achers out to clear the tire with standard tires, go bigger and you have to cut the body as well to clear. The BFG's that are on the truck tuck neatly up into the fender missing the body but would still have to cut the chassis to get the the max out of your shock. Also the ass will sit very high with 5'' in there.

[pro-4x4]

I'll post some pic's of my truck tonight! I have put hpi wheel's and pro-line hawg tires on now, Nice compound on the tires, Run without the foam and It's like running with flat tires!! Grip!! Very little clearace problem with them.