Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Forum

[Prelude14WRX]

red thread lock? alright, sounds good. How much should i use? thanks for the help.

[mr_pushrod]

I'd personally go to ebay and look up walawala_com. He has a store there where you can buy G parts pretty cheaply. Not only will this lock the diff solid but is easily removable should you decide you want a diff again.

[Prelude14WRX]

is this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5925878787&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

[pro-4x4]

Yep that's the one's! Cheap and so easy to put in. Plus you have some spare gears. Under 10 bucks you can't complain.

[Prelude14WRX]

sweet.....but i have a question, Do i need to lock the rear diff if im mostly just gonna run it around in snow(possibly), flat dirt, grass, and some hills? I might try climbing over stuff, but not rock crawling.

[Combatcm]

Mines holding up with hot glue. No mess and it literally comes out in one piece. Even though I probably wouldn't take it out again, its good to know that you can.

[Doomed]

Prelude14WRX- I think thats the great thing about the g parts is you can try it and then if you don't like it, take it out. But to answer your question, yes lock it , it will go through the stuff you are talking about much better.

[Tjappie]

Still waiting for the Blackfoot body, so I bought another 'body':

www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak
rc pics

The detail on these things is very nice, being a toy I expected it to be easy to break, NOT!! Even the mirrors are holding up fine, I can put the car on it's side resting on the mirrors and work on it.
The total weight is a little bit more then a Lexan body, but just a tiny little bit. But because al the weight is in the front the front shocks needed stiffer springs, and when braking hard at more than half speed the rear wheels start pointing straight up :p Oh well guess that doesnt matter :D The bed isn't finished yet, still gotta make a advertisment board and a rollbar.

[Prelude14WRX]

Prelude14WRX- I think thats the great thing about the g parts is you can try it and then if you don't like it, take it out. But to answer your question, yes lock it , it will go through the stuff you are talking about much better.


alright thanks.....i will most likely lock the rear diff either with g parts, or another way. I still have to get the car..lol. But, i think i will get it soon off tower. :D

[pro-4x4]

Hey Tjappie That is looking mighty fine!! :) good job mate, waiting to see it with all it's bit's on! Good detail on the truck cab ah? Awesome :D

[josh222]

ya, used hot glue in my Nitro MT's diff it worked and its a nitro. hey pro4x4 do you got any more pics of the F-350

[mr_pushrod]

More bits on my XC! I got hold of a metal geared hig torque Protech servo from a 1/8th buggy. It's real slow but it's got so much torque! The Pajero is due a good clean and some refurbishment very soon. have been playing in the mud a lot and the suspension is getting a little stiff :(

[pro-4x4]

Josh I only have the one's early I showed at the moment :) As l said I was masking the grille off etc, well it's painted! It will be a while as my wheels aren't here yet and when they arrive will give me a better understanding if my little plan will work :rolleyes: So in the mean time I am starting to put the lights together and set all that up. ;) A fair few wires there!! I'll keep you guys up to date with it. :D

[Prelude14WRX]

ya, used hot glue in my Nitro MT's diff it worked and its a nitro. hey pro4x4 do you got any more pics of the F-350

how much glue did you use in the diff? :confused:

[josh222]

filled the whole case

[Tjappie]

Thanks Pro, glad somebody likes my truck. j/k :p
I got the TA02 Universal driveshafts today, already installed them, so tomorrow I'm gonna attack the front suspension to get some more travel.
Also got some 'plastic' plates (don't know the exact material) to make the Advertisment board on the bed.
Here's a list of what I've done so far:
Bearings
Universals in the front
4-link in the rear (I used Zillon's guide)
Some dremeling on the front suspension for more travel
Carson blue annodized aluminium wheelhexes
Custom waterproof reciever box
Graupner SPEED 600 motor
M'Troniks Sport RV ESC
Waterproof Hitec 645MG steering servo, removed the servosaver
Blazing Star shocks in the rear (they suck)
Bruder truck body
HPI stock car wheels
Cut BFG's
Locked Diffs using the G-parts
15wt oil in the shocks, could be 10wt cant remember

still to do list:
The bed, needs a advertisement board and maybe a rollbar
Windows and lights in the body
Cut the underside in the front a bit for a better aproach angle
Rear bumber
Search for an old GI Joe action figure :D


I love this car so much, drive it everyday in our rockgraden. My dad likes it too, he's a hardcore truckdriver. But he doesn't want a RC, when he's at home he wants to watch TV and fall sleep...

[pro-4x4]

Sounds great Tjappie, like to see some pics in your garden when finished? Hey don't forget BARBIE! GI Joe has to have a mate?

[Tjappie]

Yeah my sister probably has some old Barbies, I can already see myself dressing her up :p :D

And our rockgarden isn't really a rockgarden, just lots of gravel with some small rocks here and there, but I put them all together to crawl over.
I'll try and make some action pics tomorrow.

[howielong]

Hey guys. I was looking at getting one of these soon maybe. After i get a touring car to drift with. But i looked on tower and they only have the XB.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUV00&P=7

what would be some good upgrades to get for it. I have a spare radio and ESC i could drop in it. Might want to make it a crawler. Any help is thanked.

[pro-4x4]

Yep that's the same as our's! If you go to page 26 on this forum and go down to mr_pushrod's post he has a link there to do the rear end set up. (very good) This is a good truck for crawling and as you may have seen in this forum the chassis you can use for a number of body shape's.

This would be a list of what is needed to make it a fun truck to use,

ESC : You need this to go slow!
Rear diff lock- g-parts bag- It's a must!
Ball bearings.
Rear suspension 4 link (A arm) system.Plus front shocks 100mm rear and 75-80mm front
These are the top 4 things to do too this truck which will enhance it SO much! My opinon only. The rest would be to gain a little more front travel by triming the hub carrier, The rest is purely your choice. See Tjappie's list of his truck and and take you pick! all worth while options.

Tjappie- Well you could always tie Barbie to the back! Wouldn't have to wear much would she? (put the other drive's off!!)

[howielong]

Okay cool. I have a esc and radio so thats checked off. Then i would need the G part bag. Bearings are always a must in my r/c's anyway. And then the suspension.

Do you have a link to the G part bag. Can't find it on tower.

[mr_pushrod]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.thebus/d...igallery310.mpg (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.thebus/docs/heligallery310.mpg)

Finally got footage of my Pajero in action from the meet a couple of weeks ago. Video is now edited and uploaded to one of the guys I was running with's website. There is footage of my Pajero, a 1/8th nitro buggy (seriously quick!) 1/10th Nitro Buggy, Zircon Monster, Tamiya Gravel Hound and Mighty Bull. I apologise about the terrible music, but it is for a shop's website so licencing issues had to be avoided. Hope you enjoy this as much as I did driving! Expect more vids in the future as these little meets are damn good fun and one of the guys is big into video editing.

As for G parts, look at walawala_com on ebay, he has a store with loads of tamiya bits including XC parts.

[Prelude14WRX]

filled the whole case

alright, thanks

[Doomed]

Thats is a great video, very fun to watch, thanks!

[pro-4x4]

Hey Guys I have tried mr_pushrod's link and it downloads but I still don't get anything?? Is my computer. any idea's why?

Here is a little pic! Blue and black!

[Prelude14WRX]

looks good so far pro-4x4 ;)

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Prelude14WRX It was a mistake that it ended up blue on the bumpers :rolleyes: It was going to be just black and chrome but the masking tape left some sticky bits behind after I sprayed the black, so I tried to get it off-end result the chrome came off! :mad: So I painted the chrome silver then the whole lot blue over the black also, In the sun it looks great as it shades the black to a deep deep purple, inside it looks normal Blue top and black bottom. a bit of a fluke really :rolleyes: But the truck will be that colour also. I now understand the guy's who use the Tamiya racing blue in the Tamiya club site how they go on about YOU HAVE TO SEE THIS IN THE SUN!! Well yeah!.. looks **** hot. So from a mistake I am happy with the outcome. :D

Another angle- very hard to capture the real look with the camera!

[Zillon]

That really is a beautiful color. Awesome job on the paint too, very smooth.

Guys, I have updated my website and forum, and I have transferred my 4-link How-to.

You can now find it here: http://www.teammayhem.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1215#1215

[Doomed]

pro-4x4- thats going to look really nice! Oh and for the video, right click and save worked for me.

Zillion- nice writeup thanks.

[Prelude14WRX]

I wish my mistakes looked that good, lol. :rolleyes: :D

[pro-4x4]

Good work on your write up Zillon! :cool: Got mr-pushrod's vid to go.....Great fun! It seems the little pajero was very helpful in not getting your mates feet wet! :) look's like a good area you have their to play around with, will be great to see more in the future.

Yeah Prelude14WRX I do hope I don't have any more mistake's as my luck will no doubt run out!! ;)

[Prelude14WRX]

ive got a question for y'all that run the pajero in snow....is it good in snow? lol. I thought i was gonna use my old school rc10 buggy as a snow car, but its 2wd and would really suck. Im pretty sure i wouldnt crawl with this truck...but, snow/ice sounds good. But, i might try crawling, who knows..lol. :cool:

[Tjappie]

I havent run mine in the show yet, and we have about a 1% change of snow here in Holland :( But for snow-running I suggest some snowchains, I'm gonna start working on mine pretty soon. Hey I might even build a snowplow (sp?), or how about a salt-trowing-device? :p That would be fun to clean the driveway with.

I havent done any work on my Trial-Truck, Saterday I felt a bit sick and stayed in bed half the day (and it was my birthday), and yesterday I went to a little onroad-meeting, had some fun with my TL01 en Mini-T. I also brought my Truck to show but nobody had any interest in it, some asked 'How fast does it go' 'eh about 10 miles?' 'mmm that sucks'. Stupid always wanna go fast nitroguys :p
There was 1 kid age 12 who liked it very much, he also has a mini-T and a clod he's modding. And a 14year-old kid liked it, at least he understood that Torque is important on this chassis.

So I still have some work to do on the Truck, gonna work on the bed first.
Also ordered some nice goodies like real working turningsignal and warninglights (probably need a extra channel for warninglights), and another circuitboard for brakelights and rearlight,still need to figure out what rearlamp means hopefully its just rear lights.
And I ordered a LRP TruckPuller motor, I'll post my findings about that when I have it.

That's it for now,

Bart

[pro-4x4]

Well I like your truck Tjappie and one day may build one up like your's :) , With all that gear your putting on it she will look awesome!! ;) I do that type of driving here with my 1/1 cj5 and the kids who watch soon change there mind and think it's a cool sport.

My new wheels have arrived and look good!.......well bloody awesome really :cool: , now waiting on the other body parts for my little plan that should work out ok I think,....... something a little out of the norm! :confused:

[Prelude14WRX]

I was thinking about a snowplow..lol, that would be awesome. Wouldnt be that hard to make, you could just use the mounts for the bumper.

[josh222]

there are some pics of a Pajero in the snow on TamiyaClub.com

[Prelude14WRX]

ya, if seen it. Just wondering if it was good or not in the snow. Still confused if i should get this car or not.......i love the looks, but not to happy with stock performance and the fact its expensive....We will see.

[Combatcm]

No car is really good in the snow. A light an inch pack will stop the jero with any tire. Snow will just pack under the chassis and stop it. Really, any car will stop if snow is is higher than the bottom of the chassis. However, once the snow has iced over and you are running on top of it, a set of speed hawgs will suit. When the snow is sort of chunky, like stepped on and thinning and hard, speed hawgs will work, but a better choice will be trac ta gators. Paws I think are over-rated for snow. They work by flinging things like rocks and sand to gain forward traction. It will not push snow hard enough to get anywhere faster. The same will happen with big spikes, but they would be better elsewhere in chunky hard snow an snow/ice. Although make it rear wheel drive, throw some paddles on the rear, throw a 16T motor in it and jump in some 1" snow and you will have a MEAN rooster machine. That sounds like a sweet idea. When I drive it in the snow, I do it inside, so when it gets stuck I have to run outside in my bare feet to throw it back on some stable ground. This makes me take it easy when going through rough stuff.

[Prelude14WRX]

hey, thanks Combatcm for the help. lol, im usually am outside when i drive in the snow and its coooold. Still thinking about the pajero....i am saving for a real car and i cant spend a whole bunch in this car. Combatcm, how do you think a rc10 original buggy would do in this snow? Its got pretty big spiky tires...u seem to know a lot about snow driving! :cool:

[josh222]

you have to get momentum going. my rally converted touring car went though 4" of snow with some good tires

[Prelude14WRX]

Thanks for the help. I think i will mostly be running on ice..ive got a pond by my house and its fun to drift..real fun :D

Hey, thanks for everyones help. I dont think ill get the pajero this year..maybe in the future. I believe ive found something else. Thanks ;)

[Combatcm]

Alright, I've been thinking about making my car have a solid front. I figured I can glue the king pin in the axle to act as a dogbone to join with a drive cup thats sits in a carrier that pivots in a custom c-hub mounted on the axle.

Now, the hard part would be getting the solid front drive power.

It would be cool without power though.

It just hit me, I could use TLT axles front and rear, and use the TLT center diff usit and just chop the chassis. I might even buy a TLT just to do this.

Such as:

[littlebuddha]

hey ya guys, finally got the tourag, i'm not locking the rear diffs like everyone although it comes with the parts, but once it snows and gets icy i'm sure to try that. I upgraded it with full rubber sealed ball bearings, and its getting charged up and ready to go, havent got the body painted though...
the solid axle front sounds like a cool idea, i'm not thinking about much mods or upgrades right now!
let you guys know how it goes. does anyone make metal motor mount for the chassis? thanks.

[Tjappie]

ACTION SHOTS!!!!!!
http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak
rc pics

as you can see I did a little root-crawling and mudding today, and test the new ESC. I blew the M'troniks installing some electrical goodies (Poof!! and the room was filled with smoked :D :p :( :mad: )
Now I have a M'troniks Sport max, still the 3th generation. It has a 8T limit so I can also use it in other cars.
The goodies I have are POS, the brakelight thing blew the ESC, turnsignal thingie doesn't work, the only thing that works is a Dieselgenerator. This device makes the sound of a truck dieselengine,and sissing from the airbrakes. It also revs up with the motor.But I need a good speaker for it, got it on order.
I also found that the body needs to be lighter to get better functioning from the suspension. Springs are too stiff too get full travel. There some stuff in the cabine for strenght that can be removed without weakening it.
I put some lead where the the second servo is placed to balance the chassis, this also decreased torqueroll a bit.
Haven't made any mods on the bed, some stuff is on the way for it. I want too make a rollcage but I think it will be too heavy, but I just need to try it.

[pro-4x4]

Keep us posted Combatcm! Good pics Tjappie.....sounds like some drama's been going on with your truck! It seem's we all have those days.......some things work then they don't, I'm having the same sort of thing's with mine!..........doh!

Hey.... has any one used Tamiya putty before? What can you do with it!? Fill holes, paint it, sand it, shape it does it stick things together? any help would be appreciated.

[howielong]

Keep us posted Combatcm! Good pics Tjappie.....sounds like some drama's been going on with your truck! It seem's we all have those days.......some things work then they don't, I'm having the same sort of thing's with mine!..........doh!

Hey.... has any one used Tamiya putty before? What can you do with it!? Fill holes, paint it, sand it, shape it does it stick things together? any help would be appreciated.

I have used that stuff before. You can sand it. Once its hard. Paint it. Once its hard. Shape it with your fingers. Make sure they are wet. Fill holes. also.

[josh222]

I saw the touareg the other day, looked nice

[jocktheglide165]

why is this truck so cool? I want one myself for some darn reason I guess its the realistic look to it.

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Howielong! I am trying to fill in some gaps in the body work on abs plastic body. It is were a have joined two bits together that are not flush all the way around.

[Zillon]

Alright guys, here's the latest update from me...

Got ahold of a spare tire at last, and also a pair of windshield wipers from Yokomo. Also fabricated a hitch and exhaust. The exhaust is kinda small, but remember, this is a European vehicle, not American.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerodetail2.jpg

More pics here: http://www.teammayhem.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=229

[josh222]

that looks realy nice zillon

[josh222]

you always do the sweetest things :D now you need a trailer for it :p

[Zillon]

Like I said... "done... for now."

Had some time today, so I broke out the dremel and attacked the front suspension. A while ago, I had the idea of flipping the front shock mounts to the top of the fenderwell and dremelling a hole through the fender. This, as a result, would allow me to mount longer shocks, and therefore get more travel. Personally, I'm surprised that I have not seen anyone do it before... it was an obvious mod to me.

The lack of travel in the front end was one of my major qualms with the chassis... now I get about 40% flex front/ 60% rear, instead of 20% front/ 80% rear

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/shockflip1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/shockflip2.jpg

Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeronov1.jpg

After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jeronov2.jpg

[pro-4x4]

Looking good Zillon!! Looking more real everyday, I think just slightly bigger on the exhaust if poissible or as you said maybe just a tip? What made you change the rear top link mount? Still looks like it has just come from the painters!!

[pro-4x4]

ohhhh I hate that when you reply and when it loads agian there is all the other replys there that weren't there before! :( Good idea with the front shocks as a week ogo I got some 105mm and 90mm GMP shocks to put in, they have about 6mm more travel for the same lenght shock, as the design allows for it. ;) , looking at all options and crossed my mind but have done nothing as I have been doing the F350. But well done and worth it isn't it!! I'll post some pics if you want of them with the duratrax one's? :)

[Zillon]

Glad you like the truck so far. Time to go run it and test it out. :D

The reason I changed the top links in the rear was to eliminate any slop that I had in the previous generation of 4-link.

I'll go with a tip for the exhaust sometime, just need to find one.

[howielong]

Thanks Howielong! I am trying to fill in some gaps in the body work on abs plastic body. It is were a have joined two bits together that are not flush all the way around.


Any time. I don't mind helping.

[pro-4x4]

It is the best idea yet!! Zillon!

[pro-4x4]

Here's the difference in shocks that are 100mm spec's by the maker! Gold Duratrax
Red GMP- EASY TO CHANGE SETTINGS!!

[pro-4x4]

Now they are fully open. When you want that little extra!!

[pro-4x4]

The rear wheel is just off the ground, but with some weight on the body will push it down to the ground. Awesome little truck's aren't they?

[josh222]

Dam that looks nice :D once i get a job which will hopefuly soon i am saving for one of these Jero's plus shocks bearings and a 4-link :)

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, been bashing around with my touareg, its great, but only one problem, it rolls over too easily, and i've managed to damage my body posts, they're kinda stiff compared to some of my other cars and may break soon. i read that stiffning up the front suspension may do the trick, but that would also mean stiffer ride through the bumps. any suggestions, i'm thinking i might move the pre-load spacer down quater of an inch or so.

also i was thinking of getting aluminum posts, but seems that may end up damaging the chassis insead if it gets pushed in. i'm thinking of getting some cheap duratrax or parma nylon body posts from tower. do you think they will fit? seems that any posts should easily be screwed on there.

other than that i'm really impressed with the car, its really fun and realistic. its acceleration and braking took me by suprise, its almost as fast as my gravel hound buggy with the stock motor.

Nice project guys, some of those projects look really great!

[cdm]

Well the chassis is inheritently too unstable because of its center of gravity, but if you put the real mitsu in real life to scale obstacles it will behave the same. Stiffer suspension will only make it worse. Trick is to keep it slow and steady and know the limits.. I guess..

That new f350 extended chassis might really make the needed difference in stability but it seems it will be a little longer before the performance reports come in.

Thing is you can't do the extension with the stock body and aftermarket bodies appear to be scarce at best..

[pro-4x4]

Hopefully not too long as in a week or 2 :rolleyes: - if not busy should be ready to paint it up and then put it back together, Had some problems with the lights as I kept blowing them and in the end just have the spots and main headlights. One reason was I had no resistors in the wire's as led's are only 3.5 volts, (The prick I got my first lot of did not tell me that, told him what they were for!! :( ) There are alot of little things to sort out but won't change the overall look of the truck. So still post some pics. It is the front rims I have to make a hex drive for them as they have none, I have got a way of fixing this, will need to use a Lathe to get them ture and turn the centre of one rim out to put in the other, but you wont know this as you can't see-but I still want it 4wd. So it's getting there :) .

[cdm]

You indeed need resistors no matter what voltage you are using. Only cells you can get away without resistors are the cell type batteries as their internal resistance is sufficient.. but anything bigger you need to put them in.

i learned the hard way :eek:

[josh222]

ya you need Resistors

[pro-4x4]

HMMMM Would of been nice if the guy at the shop told me that! So next next time I'm in town I'll have to drop in and see him!

[Tjappie]

Why is it a good idea to cut the fenders and let the shocks run thru them?? Cause on my Truck the tires almost hit the fenders when suspension is compressed. This is with stock shocks, but I removed the rubber O-ring on the shaft.

[josh222]

I would say becuase those shocks are longer and you can get max flex with the shocks mounted higher

[pro-4x4]

Well yes... longer you do gain a little more travel, with the durtarx shocks I was getting 16mm of up travel, with these ones I am getting 20mm of travel, Now that's with the tire touching the inner fender, compress the tire into the guard I am getting 24mm with about another 6mm left in the shock. So if cutting the outer edge of the fender I will gain a total of 14mm over the Durtrax shocks whitch are 70mm eye to eye, The GMP are 90mm shocks so that is 30mm of up travel, if you looked at your front bottom arms the are nearly parallel. I'll try and take a pic of it. So over the standrad shocks I can't remmeber what they were.

[pro-4x4]

I think you can see what I mean with the arms,

[pro-4x4]

Here you can see were I would cut the fenders off to gain max travel, I think this is the max as again the top link is at it's limits in extended and compressed. The red line is were I would join the shock towers and make the new body mounts from, Yellow to be cut off. :)

[pro-4x4]

I guess bottom line is how far do you go? with these changes are simple to do to gain the most of the standard setup before major changes are made to the arms. With this set up all you need is some shocks?! AND to set them up right! oil weight , spring tension etc. You may be able to see what yours looks like against the photo's.

I think it is very simple gain, With real life 1/1 trucks we set them up for wheel travel frist then lockers, This is same- as long as your wheels are on the ground you should be going places! even without the diff lock, if you have this setup you will still go a bloody long way than before--long way! This is with the front and rear set up. It's just making the front shocks work more. :)

[pro-4x4]

When I say GMP I mean GPM, Keep getting the diecast maker mixed up!

[josh222]

lol, that looks really nice Pro4x4 :D

[Tjappie]

I figured it out why to cut the fenders. Longer shocks also means a longer shock body, so the shock can't compress as far up as the stock ones.

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Josh Love drawing!! Yeah Tjappie with setting up the shocks they will compress all the way with an more even stroke as the closer you get to the limit the harder the shock becomes because the spring tension increse's. What I think with these trucks (or most rc trucks) is that you set the ride height at max instead of with real 1/1 trucks setting 30% up-70% down (example) lower the ride heigth and you don't have the same spring tension on the down ward stroke of the shock to keep pressure on the wheel, a wheel just hanging there is not going to help with getting grip with no pressure on it to force it down to the ground. Does that make sense?

[josh222]

ya that cool, if you really wanted you could run like t-max shocks up front

[pro-4x4]

Have you guys seen this XC Chassis?? :eek: XC (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44029&item=5935013424&rd=1)

[Tjappie]

Thanks Josh Love drawing!! Yeah Tjappie with setting up the shocks they will compress all the way with an more even stroke as the closer you get to the limit the harder the shock becomes because the spring tension increse's. What I think with these trucks (or most rc trucks) is that you set the ride height at max instead of with real 1/1 trucks setting 30% up-70% down (example) lower the ride heigth and you don't have the same spring tension on the down ward stroke of the shock to keep pressure on the wheel, a wheel just hanging there is not going to help with getting grip with no pressure on it to force it down to the ground. Does that make sense?


Yeah it makes sense, now I'm thinking: To cut, or not too cut, that is the question.

[cdm]

Have you guys seen this XC Chassis?? :eek: XC (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44029&item=5935013424&rd=1)

yes but the idea of it being cut makes me uneasy...

[josh222]

I like the parts with the fenders, If i ever did that i would brace the chassi up with aluminum cross members

[pro-4x4]

Hey Tjappie Yeah I had got the shocks and wanted to use them so That's why I did it! You would need 90mm shocks to get a good fit for lenght. Not keen to cut up the fenders but to use the max it can offer will do it! At the end of the day how much is the extra travel worth to you? I think it is an easy way to gain more with out making major changes. Just the cost of shocks.

As with the auction XC chassis it is a bit much cut up that bad, Don't think he had a plan myself!.

[Tjappie]

I have decided to cut.... as soon as I have some shocks that fit. I have attacked the front suspension again and dremeld so much the only thing limiting downtravel is the the dogbone and upperlink hitting the drivecup. I have replaced the upper link with some ball-ends and 3mm threaded rod. It has much more movement now.
Also got some more parts today:
4 Hummer wheels, they look great on my Truck
2 BFG's, only 1 set came in at my LHS, but already had 3 tyres so now I have 1 set of normal BFG's with 1 spare, and 1 set of cut BFG's.

Also got some chain to make some snowchains, got 1 finished but I don't have enough chain. Bought 2 meter but for 1 tyre a little more than 1 meter is needed, so back to the shop on Monday.
The bed is almost finished, only thing to be done is spraying it yellow and some decals.
The stock radiotray is replaced by a larger piece of ABS, don't know why but its so much fun making mods :D :p
Oh, and I put the stock wheelhexes back on, the alu hexes where to big to leave any thread for the nut, and made the wheels almost impossible to remove. I had to use a hammer and almost destroy my very nice brandnew Hummer wheels :p :D :mad:

I'll make some pics tomorow

[josh222]

sounds good i want to see some pics

[pro-4x4]

Looking forward to the pic's Tjappie, If you are interested this is the guy I got my shocks from in the US-Shocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5935459828&rd=1) Not a bad deal as you get a lot of extra's with them! You can get 4 off him at 90mm and 100mm or just get two of ethier . I thought it was good value as I got mine for $24.00us plus you have some options to change the settings. I found the spring a little to hard but may suit the front of your truck with the extra weight on the front? My Duratrax springs fitted but are .5mm smaller in Dia. But work ok! :) Are you going too-or do you now do competitions with your truck?
Like to some photo's of your upper front link with the ball ends if you can? :D are they 5mm or 4mm balls? That was a good move! ;)

[Tjappie]

mmm I live in Holland, wich would make the shocks too expensive. But thanks anyway.

On my 4-link I put 4 Kyosho 5.8mm pivotballs on the chassis, on the axle the silver nut/balls that come with the xc-chassis and the upperlink on the axle is the same as in Zillon's guide, using the same bend pice of plastic and a Kyosho 5.8mm ball-end.
The lower links also use Kyosho ball-ends, they can only be fitted on one side, so I pushed the pivotball in the ball-end from above, this way the link cant pop off, understand?
The upperlinks use Tamiya Ball-ends (didn't have any Kyosho's left).
All links are made from simple 3mm threaded rod, they rust so on on the upperlinks I put some brass tubing, and the lower links are only temporarely until I get the better shocks, got some 3" and 4" Duratraxes on the way.

It turned out that I could make 2 snowchains, the other 2 have too wait till monday. They fit like a glove, but I need to find a easy way to put them on.
Snowchains look awesome, and the Hummerwheels are great on my Truck too :) .

Pics:
http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak
rc pics

[mr_pushrod]

Hmm, looks like everyone is cutting. I'm starting to get very tempted as i haven't done anything to mine for a while. Pretty sure I have some 3.5" shocks kicking around somewhere as well. Oh, got a new shell coming for mine, another Pajero that will get stripped and repainted, any ideas anyone? Thoughts so far are road look or Paris Dakar look.

Got some more video from some weekend running, it's in two parts with the XC action in part two. This time my Pajero was joined by a Toureg (standard) and the Mu of Biggus Ditchus who can be seen on these forums occasionally.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.thebus/docs/dustbuster6-1.mpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mark.thebus/docs/dustbuster6-2.mpg

[josh222]

looks cool

[jocktheglide165]

are the pajeros are the same as the metal tops I guess they call them that. I noticed the detail quality of the XB pajero is nothign compared to the older model metal or meat tops they called it.

[josh222]

there i little differences. you can still get metal top bodies

[biggusditchus]

:( the sound of crunching gears in my MU :(, still great fun tho.

[mr_pushrod]

Superglue in the screw holes is the answer!

[pro-4x4]

Truck looking good Tjappie! Thanks for the info. Downloading mr-pushrods vid's at the moment.

[josh222]

super glue should work

[biggusditchus]

Ah right, cool... will have to try!

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, think i sorta fixed the roll over problem of the pajero to a extent by having a lighter battery 1500 and ABS setting on my 2pl radio. seems to be much better now, its a fun and realistic car. the run times seem to last forever. thanks for the great ideas for the future.

[josh222]

ya there is a lot of things you can do to this truck

[tc3xtreme1]

I have a ? Is the Tamiya XB Pajero on Towerhobbies.com the same chassis as the XC. Does the new have the solid rear axle and front independent. Are there any differences. Thanks in advance.

[pro-4x4]

Yes it is the same chassis as the Mateltop Pajero, VW Race, Isuzu mu, Jeep wrangler, Honda CRV, all XC cross country chassis. Only the Honda and VW use the the longer wheel base. Which you can make the other's do as well by just shifting the to the next rear mounting hole's that are already their. Or vice-versa. The only part you would need (or to make) is the drive shaft to suit the other wheelbase if you change it. longer or shorter!

[tc3xtreme1]

Thanks

[josh222]

yes it is the same truck, most of the people in this fourm have that Pajero, i think the differences between that one and the metal top are the body and the rear fenders

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, for those running the stock suspension in the tourag, take out the rear shock spacers. this will make the rear suspension much softer, and makes a world of difference to rough track handling and pretty much solves the roll over problems with the stock setting. i can push the car much harder now and it handles like a dream!

[josh222]

cool, how do you like you touareg? with the long wheel base

[littlebuddha]

ya its great, havent really tried the short wheelbase yet, but i like it, its no 4wd buggy but its just so cool! i had a nice pic, but dunno how to put it on the forum. anyways i love it, and the fact that it doesnt need hopups to be fun. ball bearings and the shock modification is all that i've done.

[josh222]

ya that really cool

[SVTcobra04]

where do a iget the part to lock the diff in my pajero.and where do i get replacement gears.i lost one :(

[SVTcobra04]

here it is

[josh222]

i believe the part is the G Parts bag, hot glue should work also silly puddy will work

[pro-4x4]

Hi SVTcobra04 Go to this link- Diff-lock plus gears (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5925878787&tc=photo) Good price really!

I have been running my F350 today-just the chassis and it is very very stable! :D Does not want to roll over, it is however a little wider in the wheel track as well, You will see why when I post some pic's of it when the body is on and finished. I can't see when the body is on that it will change the handling to much. Still have to paint the body yet which will be another week or so as I have just been to busy. But it is close to been finished. ;)

[SVTcobra04]

ok thanks.ill be ordering it shortly.

[josh222]

ya thats the stuff,

I really want to see your finished truck Pro4x4 :D

[SVTcobra04]

what kind of oil do you put on these.and what do you put in the axle.

[josh222]

i don't think it will hold oil

[SVTcobra04]

srry i ment what kind of grease.

[pro-4x4]

All I use is some Tamiya diff grease and Bearing oil.

[SVTcobra04]

ok ill pick some of that up at the LHS.

[josh222]

I use HD CVD grease for real trucks. works fine, doesn't breakdown

[SVTcobra04]

could the chassis on the paj be stiffined.

[pro-4x4]

I have a pic, I think something like what I have shown would help as most of the flex comes from the pressure of the shocks. If you brace in these place's should help. I would use a lest a 1mm thick channel of flat. The front you could brace the shock towers and maybe the inside of the fenders instead of crossing over the top(blue lines) The rear would be easy as you could use the mounting hole's from the shock and body mounts. Can be done. I would try something like this. :)

[SVTcobra04]

so has anyone had there paj on the beach.

[josh222]

there are some pics on TamiyaClub.com

[SVTcobra04]

so how much do you think braceing the chassis would help.

[pro-4x4]

If your just crawling with it I don't think it's worth it as with the chassis flexing helps the suspension. If you want to use it more as dirt tracker so the speck where you are going faster it may help. There is flex thier but depends on your use as to if it's worth it or not? I would try the rear first with just going from shock mount to a body mount and vice-verse- and where they cross I would drill a hole and put a small bolt in. Not a lot of flex in the front.

[TrickSpeed]

Hey everyone,

I've had my pajero for a while, and enjoyed it stock. But now I wanna do some mods. I dont want to lock the rear diff, just put some heavy grease in it. Do you guys have any suggestions? I also plan on putting on all kinds of lights on my pajero and want to make a sort of "brush guard" for the front like you would see on 1:1 vehicles. And do you have any suggestions on mods to do, I already have an esc and motor heatsink. I am in the process of doing the front shock mod where you make holes in the chassis. Plus I have 3" shocks in the back and 2.5 inchers in the front.

I'll leave you guys with a pic of my 2 pajeros.

[pro-4x4]

Hi Trickspeed Nice trucks! :D If you are going to cut holes in the front I would recommend at least 80 to 90mm shocks, Thats with the hub carrier been trimed for more travel. I would put Zillon's 4 link in the rear as this give's great movement in the rear end, if your not going to lock the rear this mod will help you go further because of the wheel travel you will gain. As for grease in the diff's I wouldn't know what the best sort is as I have the rear locked. The suspension mod would be the best mod to do as the truck will out perform a stock one hands down. ;) :D

Here's a pic of my light's I have going at the moment, Still need to paint it yet!! :rolleyes: I'll get there ! :)

[4wdmt]

wow, cool :cool: . what lights are you using and how do you power them pro-4x4?

[SVTcobra04]

thats real sweet.I was thinking of putting some lights on mine.

[Tjappie]

Nice pics everybody, d*mn I must finish the lights on my truck, seems like u are a lot of steps further then me Pro4x4! I'm now working on a better steering system, with bearings. I'm making pics off the complete proces.
BTW, got the snowchains finished:
www.******.net/member/kyoshofreak
rc pics

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Guys! :) They are bright! Could of used white but wanted blue-They are 5mm LED'S only 7000 mcd -(means their brithness) white ones can be up to 17000-That's bloody bright! :eek: I am using the main battery for power. As I found out you need to put at least 200ohm resistor for each light as they are only 3.5volts.(IF YOUR POWER IS 7.2 V) I blew a few not putting a resistor on :mad: Still thinking to put some rear tails on?? I have put in a two way switch so it can be all on or just the main headlights. A bit of time setting them up but worth it. The guy I got them off lives in the same town as me-(small small place) was surprised he had a web site even!!. Here's his site so you can see the lights with some spec's on them.LED'S (http://www.dpt.co.nz/leds.html)

[pro-4x4]

Boy!! those chains must take a while to put together Tjappie? How have you found them to be working- good? Still have alot to do with the body- still to paint and some hole filling to do!and some gaps! My putty filler stuff only arrived this morning. I want to make sure that everything to do with the body is done before I paint it. I think I will leave turning the wheels out till last as it won't change the look.(need the centre with the hex put into another rim)

[TrickSpeed]

Whoops, made a mistake. I've actually got 103mm shocks in the rear and 87mm in the front. I'm thinking of putting on a pair of 103mm in the front too, since I've got a spare set just lying around. Is everyone still using the stock springs.

On another note, the side mirrors finally broke today after a jump turned into a rollover.

I also plan on wiring the leds in pairs, as to take care of the voltage issue.

[pro-4x4]

That sounds better Trickspeed! As for springs I have been using duratrax one's have five sets. Will find some spring rate's if you like(when I get home!) I know they are very light!

[josh222]

i have a set of Aluminum HPI Super shocks, there 11cm(110mm) long, will these do good in a jero when i get one?

[Tjappie]

Boy!! those chains must take a while to put together Tjappie? How have you found them to be working- good? Still have alot to do with the body- still to paint and some hole filling to do!

The chains are very easy, once you have the first one done the rest is easy, and they don't take much time to make. I used needlenose-pliers.
No snow here in Holland, but I will test them in very loose sand, pretty sure they work.Tried different design but the links are to big.
I'm also working on the body, couldn't finish the steering system mod because I need some stuff, and the shops are closed when I get home frome work :(

[pro-4x4]

Hey Josh I think that's a bit much in lenght with the shocks! Will fit but will max out the rod ends! and you wont make use of the whole shock! Mine 105mm has maxed the rods out, You can only try it out when you get one.

Tjappie- You may find on sand you will dug yourself a hole with the chains on? Would be great for that wet greasey hill climb!! Even in the dry they should dig in. Think you will be going places with those on!

[pro-4x4]

Here are the springs I am using on my Pajero, ;)

Front=here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX3283)

Back=here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXN153)

With 40 weight oil I am happy with the way they work. Still have 2 hole and a three hole pistons to try out one day.

[josh222]

Pro4x4 take some pics of the F-350 even if it isn't done

[pro-4x4]

I would josh but it is in bit's at the moment as I have primed the body and rubbing it down. Not much to show at this stage. Going well it should be all done be the end of next week. So might as well finish it off.

[SVTcobra04]

could I use these with zillions 4 link.Shocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHSR4&P=X) Are these good shocks and what springs should i get.I want them to be soft.

[pro-4x4]

Hmmm I think really they are to long as the rods ends are maxed out at 105mm so you wont use the whole shock. Check above for the springs I am using :) here's the shocks again just for the pair-here (http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5939346530) That's 5 bucks starting bid :eek: so you may win them for that price????? Are you not keen of these shocks SVTcobra? :confused:

[pro-4x4]

Try that link again!!shocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5939346530) :)

[pro-4x4]

He is the whole set!4 shocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5939668145) :)

[SVTcobra04]

ok...that would be really sweet if i could win em for 5 bucks :cool: :D someone will probley bid on em tho :(

[josh222]

Ok Pro4x4 hurry up, you have had me waiting for weeks :rolleyes:

[Tjappie]

Good news: the Blackfoot body I ordered weeks ago finally came in with all the extra parts
Bad news: The roof got smashed in the packaged, my LHS ordered a new one but again it will take some time.

Also for some strange reason another set of hummer wheels came in, but I can always use those :D

[josh222]

that sucks :(

[SteveK]

Which Blackfoot body did you order? Parma makes some decent representations in Lexan of the older flareside and of the newer F-150. They also make lots of SUVs and street-worthy pickups: Should be a lot lighter and more resilient that ABS.

[SteveK]

If you're are looking for bolt-on replacements for the stock shocks, and/or are cheap and don't want to do too many mods, try this method.

I have a set of old barely-used RS4 Rally shocks lying around, stripped the caps on one or two and decided to change all 4 over to the new styles but never got around to it, so one day when I was messing around I found that they fit just about perfectly into the stock Pajero shock bodies. The stock shocks are just oil shocks with the bladders and pistons removed.

I ended up using diaphragms from Traxxas (Might try and find some Tamiya bladders, to be 100% sure they seal, or sand 0.5mm off the bottom of the cap so it snugs down onto the rubber), HPI shafts and pistons (Perfect fit inside the body), Associated O-rings and lower rod-ends, and a 1/8" spacer leftover from an Associated shock rebuild.

[SteveK]

Here is the rough parts list:
1X - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJH43&P=7
2X - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC6809&P=7
1X - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN165&P=0
1X - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2594&P=7
1X - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=HPIC1252&P=7

You can use any rod-ends and plastic spacers. Except for the bladders, I had all this stuff lying around. Oh yes, there is an Associated spring perch on there too, but I don't remember why.

That plastic spacer is important: The new rod-ends will be shorter than stock (The stock shocks are touring car shocks with longer ends), so you'll need that to keep the shaft from hitting the diaphragm when bottom out the shock.

I have everything dry-fitted and it works well. Now that I can spend some time back in the workshop, I'll fill them with oil and give them a try.

[Tjappie]

Which Blackfoot body did you order? Parma makes some decent representations in Lexan of the older flareside and of the newer F-150. They also make lots of SUVs and street-worthy pickups: Should be a lot lighter and more resilient that ABS.

King Blackfoot body. It doesn't mattter that its ABS, cause it will be a Shelf Queen body.

[josh222]

Has any one driven the Pajero/Touareg on ice? or snow

[SVTcobra04]

well i tryed last year........it was horrible in snow but with a lock diff and bigger tires it would be better.

[SVTcobra04]

snow chains would help to......or if you wanna do it the ghetto way find some crappy tires and staple em.....it works :D

[SteveK]

Yeah, I can see if being rough going in certain conditions: It's got relatively low ground clearance (Every inch of snow is like 10" to a real truck), narrow, hard tires, it's relatively heavy for an R/C truck, and the short wheelbase makes for tricky handling. Instead of driving on top of the snow, it would just sink in, unless the snow is packed pretty well. Wider tires like Dirt Hawgs should help. If you took it to to an unplowed but well-travel parking lot or street, then there probably wouldn't be any stopping it.

I'm not sure what the locked diff would do: Logic says it would have more forward traction, but it would probably be more of a handful to drive, especially with the short wheelbase.

I haven't tried it, but I want to weigh down a sled and pull it around the backyard to make a packed-down track of clean snow. Road salt is too much of a risk to the metal and electronics IMO.

[josh222]

ya Road salt a no no, I was thinking of Spiked tires for icey spots and wide tires for snow

[SteveK]

I think you'd get more traction on the ice with wider, softer tires (Dirt Hawgs) than with spikes. Rubber spikes just won't dig in to ice like they would dirt, so you'd actually lose grip from the reduced contact area.

[SVTcobra04]

yea but they mite help for snow......you would just need wide tires.

[josh222]

I meant to say spikes as in screws and chains any way when i eventualy get, hopefully in the summer i will have time to think

[Tjappie]

HELP!! I'm stuck!! Almost got the streeing mod done, but I can'tfigure out the last part, putting the lower steering part on the shaft. It has to be removable, and the shaft can be cut off course.

[pro-4x4]

Very impressive Tjappie! So you need to be able to lock the bottom arm to the shaft-right? Just wondering can a pin be put in like the way the hex drive works?(or 2mm bolt-still would need to be tight with no slop!) If you drilled the streeing arm out is their enought meat left to do anything with? At the monent that's all I can think off-(to early in the morning) got any more photo's of it? I'll be thinking on it!

[pro-4x4]

If that system wont work-then you need to drill and tap the end of your shaft and place some locking devise. still thinking!

[Tjappie]

yeah I've been thinking about drilling a hole for a pin. Also thought about glueing a nut inside that lower steering arm, put it on the shaft and then another nut on top of it.
I think I'm gonna try the nut system. And I'm doing some other stuff right now, like painting the bed for my truck.

[pro-4x4]

That sound's ok! Looking forward in seeing your truck all done! Well done on your streeing mod- very clever! Let us know if your nut on nut works?

[Tjappie]

That sound's ok! Looking forward in seeing your truck all done!
Haha, my RC's are never 'all done' :D

[josh222]

yes yes RC never seem to be finished there is always some thing new happening :)

[Tjappie]

Ok guys, the steering mod is done!! Gonna do a guide tomorrow

[pro-4x4]

Looking forward to it Tjappie!

[josh222]

Hey glen i got your Email, i will check out the other stuff at school, i have 56k internet

[pro-4x4]

I'm the same with 56k at home- but have 500k at work! that's brilliant.

[SVTcobra04]

lol...i hate dial up.....but i just got comcast :) :) :) :D

[pro-4x4]

SVTcobra04 - How have you gottin on with the shocks?

[josh222]

Glen it looks sweet with a paint job it will be amazing, are you gona use body filler on those fenders?

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Josh- Well it's taken a while :rolleyes: -But have finally got it smooth enough to start painting!! First time cutting and joining parts so all this has been new to me, Lost count on how many times I have rubbed it down!!!! :( Now I need more paint! :o So when that arrives I should be able to finish it completely! :rolleyes:

Tamiya paint is very thin and show's every imperfection, So had to get some primer which is thicker to help hide little lines etc in the body work.
Using filler was interesting- in the end I had to use Pinecar body filler- At first it seemed to dry and just fall apart :mad: Wet my fingers and got it to stick were I wanted it and then pushed it in the gaps, Once in, rub your wet finger along the filler and it went smooth, Then let dry and sanded it down with 1200 wet and dry. But you MUST let it dry and set hard for 24 hrs- not 4-5 hours! goes soft again when sanding with the wet and dry! Could sand dry but even 1200 paper was scratching the **** out of the plastic when dry!!!!!!
So not far away now :D

[SVTcobra04]

pro 4x4........i found some oil filled shocks i had layin around and put new oil O's and cleaned em.i also got new springs but there a little stiff.....is there a way to un stiffin em up without buying new ones.

[pro-4x4]

Hmmm Not really- I have once with a pair of mine was to cut 2 rings (coils) off and pull the spring apart! But never really worked. They were no good after that. Otherwise I don't know how to make them softer?

[josh222]

ok, well hurry up, i wana see thing done, i like those tires and rims

[SVTcobra04]

well i finally got the g parts bag for my paj.....havnt had the time to put the gear and diff lock in yet....in about a week ill see how it runs on a hill with sand/dirt and lots of dips and ruts and just alot of stuff it will have to go through :p .....it should be fun.if you want a pic of this AWSOME :D hill pm or email me and ill email it to you.

[josh222]

ok SVT hurry up and do it

[josh222]

ohh Glen with that F350 body maybe you could make a safari roof thing over the bed :)

[pro-4x4]

Hmmm It is possible- But can add to it later as I should finish it frist. My paint should arrive this morning, (extra cans!) I guess I will leave it for a day or two before I start to put together so it can harden up.

[josh222]

i was tiking of a small frame cover and put so cloth or something over it for a soft top look

[josh222]

and a little lader on top and a spare tire in the bed and a min shovel and axe on the side

[pro-4x4]

That sound's ok Josh, Well I painted it all today! So I 'll leave it for a day or two before I start putting it back together. I'll get it back together with the roll bar and light's and post some pic's in the next few days (around 3-4 days away?) I am still are making bit's for it but won't worry about finishing as you'll get the picture of the truck and when done I'll post some more. Other than that I spent most of the day been High!!!! :) :D :p :confused:

[josh222]

sounds good :p

[Tjappie]

Other than that I spent most of the day been High!!!! :) :D :p :confused:

Hahahaha, I know what you mean. (remember I live in Holland :D )

[pro-4x4]

Yeah I know! :D Hows your write up going?? ;)

[Tjappie]

slow, but it will be finished someday :p

[josh222]

mmm, the smell of paint fumes killing brian cells :D

[pro-4x4]

Well will be posting some photo's tomorrow :D , It's not finished with all the little bit's I want to add-such as inner guards in the rear, mud flaps?(maybe) side steps?(maybe) I have turned the centres out of the other rims but still need to install on the rims I have on now. Little stuff like that. I have painted the hub caps the same as the truck they look better than plain but not sure if they are better than none at all? :confused: This has been my first real build up just from parts and adding to the body work was new to me. I already know that I will build another one but will add more to it and it will be bigger than this one! (in size) this one will take some time as their will lots and lots of extras add to it and body cutting. Some parts I want are hard to find and what is out their is very expensive!! :o Will try a two or three tone paint job as well. :rolleyes:
Until tomorrow then! ;)

:p meht deen yllaer ew od- sllec nairb - haey ho

(backwards)

[josh222]

We really need them? whats that mean

[pro-4x4]

it was-- Oh Yeah brain cells- do we really need them! Well I'll post some photo's today.

[Tjappie]

Surfing on the net I found another low rpm/ high torque motor: Team Orion Truck Orbital 2 Mach. This is a 80x1Turn motor, meaning it has massive power. Spins about 6500 rpms. Too bad it only has bushings.
I think I'll buy one and compare it to the LRP Truckpuller motor( also spinning 6500rpm).

And about the steering mod guide: Need a good place to store my pics, don't want them in my rc pics album, and I don't want them to dissapear in 1 month.

[pro-4x4]

Well here it is! :D I'll post a few!

[pro-4x4]

another one

[pro-4x4]

another

[pro-4x4]

More! :rolleyes:

[pro-4x4]

If it was a nice looking female you would have to get this angle! :D

[pro-4x4]

oh ok one more! :rolleyes:

[josh222]

Sweet Glen Sweet looks realy nice :eek:

[Zillon]

Wow, I'm very impressed.

Love the stance from the rear shot, and the color is beautiful.

[SVTcobra04]

:eek: wooooow :eek: thats to kool

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Guy's! :) Must thank BaoBao and R.D Trucking at the Tamiya club site, Who helped me with my idea with the wheels as to if it was possible to fit or make them fit and supply them. Plus everyone who give their tips and tricks on the XC chassis. Everyone has an input big or small that's the great thing with this forum and the internet. ;) It makes life a lot easier!! It's brilliant.

Cheers :D

[Tjappie]

one word: Awesome!!!!!!!!!! The color is absolutely beautifull.
1 question: 1 headlight has 3 parts, a clear one, a yellow and a orange one. This is the same as the headlights on a blackfoot body. But I cant figure out what part the turningsignal is. Are both the yellow and orange part turninglights?

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Tjappie-Hmmm Is tricky as I looked at some real one's to get an idea of the rear gurads and noticed that some of the trucks hold just a turnsignal at the bottom! To me, I would have the turnsignal at the bottom and park light on the side, Some of the real one's had the bottom and the side all deep orange. One set must by used as the park light in real life. I would go for the bottom as the signal. The guys in the US should know? These trucks here are like hens teeth!!

Found a safe spot for your photo's?

[SVTcobra04]

that thing is so nice now i want to do my own :D another progect :rolleyes:

[howielong]

Surfing on the net I found another low rpm/ high torque motor: Team Orion Truck Orbital 2 Mach. This is a 80x1Turn motor, meaning it has massive power. Spins about 6500 rpms. Too bad it only has bushings.
I think I'll buy one and compare it to the LRP Truckpuller motor( also spinning 6500rpm).

And about the steering mod guide: Need a good place to store my pics, don't want them in my rc pics album, and I don't want them to dissapear in 1 month.


Use www.photobucket.com

[josh222]

mini gas tanks would look good too, Glen :)

[mr_pushrod]

Stunning truck, I love it!

[SVTcobra04]

what motors that are better then then staock will fit in with no mods?

[Tjappie]

Any 540 size motor fits, and almost every 550 size fits without any mods.
If you want speed, any motor with a lower turn count will be better.
If you want more torque, the Graupner speed 600 motors are a good choice. Low cost and high power. there are several types available, I have this one:
http://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/commerce/command/ExecMacro/Graupner/macros/main.d2w/report?lang=en&show_cat=5643
This is a 550 version of the stock 540 Mabuchi.

[josh222]

i saw this mod to gear it down even more, they put a pully where the motor goes and ran another gear reduction

[Doomed]

Thanks for posting the pics pro-4x4, it looks great.

[SteveK]

540:
http://mpja.com/productview.asp?product=12800+MD
550:
http://mpja.com/productview.asp?product=12802+MD

[pro-4x4]

Thanks mr_pushrod and Doomed!
The 550 motor will be tight with the motor wires out the back. Is the power of the 550 better than the 540 for the same 10.000rpm? I guess it has a bit more torque! would the gain be noticeable?

[Tjappie]

Yes, the increase in power is noticable, and throttle control is better too. It's not the same as dropping a big USA V8 into a 4-banger, but its worth the money. I paid about 10 Euro's for the motor.

[pro-4x4]

OK What motor would you put in your truck if lenght was not a problem 700-720 or 900? :rolleyes:

I see your motor on e-bayeco (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5917367823&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT) That's it ah?

[Tjappie]

No glen, that's the ECO version, meaning it draws low current for maximum runtime.
And any size higher then 550( Graupner calls them 600 size), also have thicker diameter so they wont fit the XC-chassis.
Btw, thanks for the pics Glen, they encouraged me to finish the lights on my Blackfoot body. I used 9200 MCD Leds, they are definitely blinding!!! :cool: :cool: :cool:

[josh222]

is it posible to pull a wheelie?

[biggusditchus]

If i reverse mine then immediately drive forward it will lift the front wheels, wont do it again and dont recommend it. Puts a huge strain on the drive train an excellent way of stripping the gears.

[pro-4x4]

Yeah wasn't thinking about the diameter! :rolleyes:

Cool with the lights Tjappie,Did you make the bottom the turnsignal? :confused:

[pro-4x4]

Oh yeah forgot to say Josh, Pulling wheelies would cause some damage in the drive train!! (in time) But it takes off like a drag car with one wheel of the ground under the torque, You have to be ready and have good control on the streeing as you could flip over if you are not ready for it!!

[Tjappie]

I said finish the lights, but they are far from finished. I put the leds in the headlights and rollbar and put the wires on them, haven't made turnsignal or parkinglights yet. Also gotta calculate the resistors needed.

I made a pic of the finished rollbar, the lights are custom made.
http://www.******.net/img/44916
(No Tumbnail available on this pic, anybody know why I'm missing several thumbnails in my album?)

[pro-4x4]

Don't know about any one else but I can see your thumbnail ok! :D

Looks good (rollbar etc) Are they coloured lights? I used 200 ohm resistors for each light. :) 9200 will be bright indeed!! Hard on your eyes-you are left with seeing little dots in your eyes :rolleyes: shouldn't stare at them!!!!!!! :eek:

[Tjappie]

http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak
Can you see all the Thumbnails??
The leds are white, but they look yellow when you look straight at them.

[pro-4x4]

The thumbnail of your rollbar is not their-but can open it and see the large image. And then see your THUMBNAIL!!! heehee! (holding your rollbar!) :D Their is about 12 all up that do not show an image until your click on them. :)

[Tjappie]

OMG, NOW I get it, Thumbnail, like the nail on my thumb. Whahahaha LOL.
Must be cause I'm high from paint fumes, finished painting the bed for my truck. Now I know why you are complaining about sanding Glen, I used wet 1200 paper and still can see some lines and scratches. But no big deal, it will probably get beat up pretty bad :p

[pro-4x4]

Yeah sorry about that! weird humor! Couldn't help myself- the door was wide open for that one.

[Zillon]

Glen/Pro - What combination of paints did you use on the F-350 body? I'd like to get a similar effect with perhaps the same or different color. Brand and colors?

[pro-4x4]

I used all Tamiya paints, I did start with TS-30 Silver Leaf but found it to thin to hide some of the fine scratches from sanding, So I rubbed it down with 1200 wet and dry (was wet) And then sprayed some Tamyia surface primer, This was good for hiding the little marks! :) Rubbed that down again with wet 1200, gave it another two coats of primer and rubbed down again, Sprayed lightly on the the area's not scratched and a little heavier on the areas that needed it. Then I sprayed the TS-30 (silver leaf) over the lot and rubbed that down with 1200 wet, and once more with 2000 wet.
Now all rubbed down give it two light coats of silver leaf and left to dry.
Then used TS-51 Racing blue (used to be called Telefonica blue) are the same paint's with a new name. It would of been around 5 coats of that all up. You could see after the second coat that it was getting darker in colour. Then only three coats of Tamyia Clear-should of give it two more coats I think of clear. But that's about it! :D Kowning the paint and it's colour change you could if clever could have it on the truck with it changing from light to dark effect(top to bottom-Front to back) with would blend itself in nicely. :cool: Hope that helps?

Playing in the garden! Mirrors stick out too far!! as you can see on the right hand side. (double-sided tape) :rolleyes:

[SVTcobra04]

u should get a body for bashin....cuz if that thing rolls its gonna take a hurtin.

[pro-4x4]

Yeah your right cobra! Am going to make another. I'll use a slower motor -high torque one. It is more stable than the Pajero.You really have to try to flip it, Their is some weight in the body!!

[Zillon]

Strange you mention Telefonica Blue, it's actually the color I was planning on before I asked you.

Thanks for the advice though. :)

By the way, what grit did you prep the body surface with?

[pro-4x4]

I had 1200-1500 and 2000 wet and dry paper, the last rub down was with the 2000. Oh yeah I lightly rubbed the body with 800 before any paint went on.

[josh222]

All I can say is WOW :eek: :D

[SVTcobra04]

Whats the best battery( 7.2 ) that i could order online from tower?

[SVTcobra04]

What is the best charger out there now....could I get a link to a site to buy online.thnx

[pro-4x4]

I have a Apex B+ charger that does both ni-cad and NiMH, Have TRW 3300 NiMH batteries. Go for Nimh if you can but remmeber your charger has to be able to charge them. Cost is the main factor here as some chargers are real fancy- but are good! but come with a high price tag! How much do you want to spend?? But a good charger will be worth it as you will get better performance from your batteries. I'm not sure what you guys have over their in the way of chargers?
But it been able to Charge both types of batteries, Fast charge,slow charge, discharge, cycle etc, are good features to have! I can't be much more help to you cobra I have never looked for them. :)

[SVTcobra04]

thanks 4x4........would this be worth the moneyCharger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXASY6&P=7)

[josh222]

Venom packs are really cheap, it is like 25 bucks for a 3000mah MIMH battery :)

[SVTcobra04]

would it be worthit to move the battery to the rear?

[pro-4x4]

Well that has got some fruit on it! Novak are a good brand, I don't think you could go wrong with it, As long as you understand how to use it!? Has anyone else got an opinion on this charger???

[josh222]

Glen what bod are doing next?

[pro-4x4]

The F-350 But longer!!

[pro-4x4]

SVTcobra04
Member Join Date: 11-22-2004
Posts: 34

would it be worthit to move the battery to the rear?
[/QUOTE]

No I don't think is a good idea! to much weight up higher and to the rear. Is their a reson why you would want too?

[Doomed]

Pull massive wheelies? :D

[howielong]

Well that has got some fruit on it! Novak are a good brand, I don't think you could go wrong with it, As long as you understand how to use it!? Has anyone else got an opinion on this charger???


The charger isn't that bad. But you might be able to get something with more features for less or a little more.

[pro-4x4]

Doomed Pull massive wheelies?


Your not wrong Doomed----Wide willy Pajero alright :eek: :D

[pro-4x4]

I'm getting their with this quote thing!!!!