Tamiya Mitsubishi Pajero Forum

[josh222]

lol, Glen make a limo F350 :D

[pro-4x4]

Well not to long Josh! Have you put your Christmas order in??

[josh222]

lol that would be cool a limo XC chassi :D have it raised to the maxx

[SVTcobra04]

someone should make a pajero chassis the same but out of metal.it be kinda kool.

[josh222]

There is but it is costly, i forget the site. it is some german dude who makes the stuff. looks very high quality :)

[pro-4x4]

Oh well guys have a Great christmas and happy new year! ;) Hope you all have been good so Santa can drop those nice little goodies in your super large XXXX stocking :rolleyes: Luck of the draw we get Xmas first-it's only 14 hours away for me!

Safe holidays Dudes! :cool:

[josh222]

dam you being over seas :mad: lol, have a good christmas Glen :)

[SVTcobra04]

hey guys......I did a little mod today....heres a few pics......its a little rough but off roaders are right :D

[josh222]

nice, how high did you raise it there?

[SVTcobra04]

1/2 an inch maybe

[Tjappie]

Well, good thing I didn't do my steering mod-guide, cause it needs some improvement. Yesterday I did some testdriving with my new LRP Truckpuller motor, and I had to change the steering trim constantly.
That Truckpuller motor is amazing, ENORMOUS torque. With enough traction it will go straight up a wall without breaking a sweat!! Also makes it possible too drive SOOOOO slow, and topspeed is about 3-4 miles/hour.
I put double-sided tape on my rims, I think my tires got a bit stretched making the rim spin inside them and I don't want to glue them.
Btw, got a question for everybody:
My GP 3300Mah stick packs are a little to long, takes some force to mount the battery holder and then it will push the chassis a little out on each side. Anyone else got this problem?

I want to make some pics but first I will buy a better camera, my Nikon Coolpix 2000 is just too crappy. (Paid €250, 1 month later prices started dropping, now the camera is €89 :( :mad:

[pro-4x4]

Hey Corba Is that mod to keep an air flow though the truck?? :confused: You must have your diff lock in now Notice the diffrence?

Hey Tjappie Sound's like an awesome motor that Truck puller- Found a place that has them here----Hmmmm thinking about getting it?? I have the some problem with my batterys to with that they are just a little to long, Just force it in. Could always make another type of holder I guess? wouldn't be to hard.

[pro-4x4]

Oh yeah Tjappie Hows the truck coming alone all painted?? and how about the Blackfoot-done anything with that yet?

[Iglar_RC]

Welll, finally my first post. Hi everybody! I hope you all had a great christmas and got some nice present :D

Pro-4x4 do you remeber who I am? I haven't painted my pajero yet but I've chopped off the bumper with my new Dremel Digital! Wha hey!


My GP 3300Mah stick packs are a little to long, takes some force to mount the battery holder and then it will push the chassis a little out on each side. Anyone else got this problem?

Yeah, I had that same problem with my GP3300. The outer heatshrink got cracked on my battery pack so I took the whole thing off. After that I took off the black cap kind of thingy on the side of the pack that dosen't have the plug attached. Now the pack is slightly shorter length and fits perfectly.

[pro-4x4]

Yes I remeber-good to hear from you, How is the winch plan going any progress?

[Iglar_RC]

Sadly I havent really progressed in actually building it however I did buy this engine off trademe for only $4 (pretty good deal, huh? :) )

I don't want to use this engine to power the winch (I don't even know if it runs because theres no carb/backplate) although it would be funny to have a nitro powered winch. I want to use the centrifugal clutch on it though.

See the gear on the back of the clutch/fly wheel assembly? It was used for starting the engine so it has a simple one-way mechanism on it which can easily be locked. I plan to connect a motor (with pinion) up to this and the clutch bell will spin another, much larger gear which will connect up to the winch reel. I hope this is going to work, I'm going to need some high revs.

At the moment I'm actually looking for some metal, I think I'll go to the local scrap heap to pick up something real cheap but I reckon they will probably be closed for a while over christmas/new years.

[Tjappie]

Wow, is that a real nitro engine? That is the smallest I have ever seen! (mmm, I've heard that one before :p )

Yes Glen, the truck is all painted now, only needs some decals now. Did some detailing like windows, windscreen-wipers ans some more cutting of the front body. Also put the body a little higher and further back.

Still waiting for the Blackfoot body. Everybody in the rc business has 2 weeks vacation here in Europe. Only thing done are the lights in the grill and rollbar.

[Tjappie]

Wow, is that a real nitro engine? That is the smallest I have ever seen! (mmm, I've heard that one before :p )

Yes Glen, the truck is all painted now, only needs some decals now. Did some detailing like windows, windscreen-wipers ans some more cutting of the front body. Also put the body a little higher and further back.

Still waiting for the Blackfoot body. Everybody in the rc business has 2 weeks vacation here in Europe. Only thing done are the lights in the grill and rollbar.

The LRP Truckpuller is awesome, however I could use a little more wheelspin.
Gonna try a 20T pinion, if that is too much I'm gonna drill the motorplate and try to fit a 18T pinion. The motors are a bit expensive, I paid €45, could buy 4 SPEED 600 motors for that.

[pro-4x4]

Sounds good! Is it possible to put lighter spring or springs or wieghts in the clutch so less rpm's are needed for it to lock in?

[pro-4x4]

The LRP Truckpuller is awesome, however I could use a little more wheelspin.
Gonna try a 20T pinion, if that is too much I'm gonna drill the motorplate and try to fit a 18T pinion. The motors are a bit expensive, I paid €45, could buy 4 SPEED 600 motors for that.

Well I have just ordered one :D (truck puller) it was expensive at $90.NZ Even your 45 pounds Tjappie is $120nz with out shipping. Have figured that I will need to glue the tires to make use of the torque. It will be a week or two as with the holiday's slowing everything down. (darn it :o ) So you think it's far better than the speed 600's?? or just better?

Trucks coming along nicely then-will look great! ;) Truck puller in this truck??

[Tjappie]

No no Glen, I paid 45 Euros, not pounds. And here in Holland everything is about 20% more expensive then in the USA.
For trial driving the motor is far better, because of the torque and the throttle control, but like I said I want a little more rpm's.
The magnets are really strong, and the brushes should last for ages with only 6500 rpm max.
And the slipping with my tires is not because off the increase in torque, they have always slipped a bit when they where wet, but the last few weeks they slipped more and more even when they are dry. The double-sided tape works perfect. Just cut some long narrow pieces and stick them on the rim where the beads sit. (Beads are the parts off the tire that mount on the rim right?)

[pro-4x4]

oops yep sorry didn't read it right :o - well that brings it more in line to $85.00NZ :)
I have one tire that is slipping too in the dry and figured it will only add to the problem with the extra torque and if I try to tow something it would show up more? Want to build a trailer of some type and make the F350 a tow wagon. Have got some Hauler flatbed trailer springs,shocks,axles and mounts etc. No rush on that as getting more bits to build another frist. :rolleyes:

Yep your right with the beads! always buy those flash bead locked rims? big suckers though :rolleyes: and expensive!!!! :eek:

[Tjappie]

Flash bead locked rims? Eh, what are those?

[Iglar_RC]

Wow, is that a real nitro engine? That is the smallest I have ever seen! (mmm, I've heard that one before :p )

Yeah, it is pretty small. I would love to have it run one day because the compression is great.

Its a COX .049 1970 engine so its pretty old. When I got it, it didn't even turn over. It looked like the engine had been soaking in ketchup for a couple of years.

I think the smallest engine COX makes is a .010 or .020 size. :confused: :D

[Iglar_RC]

Sounds good! Is it possible to put lighter spring or springs or wieghts in the clutch so less rpm's are needed for it to lock in?

Hey, thats a good idea. I probably won't be able to do and thing to the spring because its one of those clutches where one spring runs right around all the clutch shoes. Weighting the clutch shoes sound good but I'll have to make sure all the weights are balanced.

[pro-4x4]

This guy in the US has them. I have seen them smaller (2.2) but are still around the $120US starting price. Same idea as we use on our 1/1 trucks.

[pro-4x4]

This is one off my jeep- all it does is clamp the bead onto the rim so you can run 2psi in your tires. These ones I made but in the US you can buy these.

[Tjappie]

Aha, I see. But isn't 2psi a little low? I always used 12psi for offroad and about 29psi for normal driving on my Suzuki Vitara. However I'm a noob at 1:1 offroads, sold the suzuki after 3 months and bought my dreamcar.

[pro-4x4]

Yep it very low! On your Vitara did you run tubes? If then not, then yes 12 psi would the lowest you'd run, 15psi on a bigger truck (Crusier-Pajero etc) We can run so low because of the bead lock-plus the trucks are only used for competition-trailered every where. Hmmm Dream car over your way- English or German?

[SVTcobra04]

yea 4x4 that was one reason i did it.....airflow.....and I was bored and thought it mite look a little more like a rally vehicle :D (rally car or truck) :confused: :confused: but i did notice it ran a little cooler....mite have just been the temp outside tho.....but maybe if i got some fans and cut out the grills in the front and setup the fans so it sucked cold air in and blew hot out i bet i could get it to run alot cooler.

[Zillon]

Seems I riced out the Pajero. Oh boy.

The vent is functional though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerovent3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/pajero/jerovent4.jpg

[pro-4x4]

Well it has to help Corba!! With a little fan in the front it would blow out the back ok, Keeping it cool does help your performance.
Have you got a another fan under Zillon? The old body is showing some use now! But that's what they are made for ah! Reminds me of the Mitz Evo hood scoop!

[SVTcobra04]

could I hook up 5 fans to a little battery pack with no problems?

[pro-4x4]

Wow Thats a lot!!! Two would do ok wouldn't it??????

[SVTcobra04]

well 2 in the front to bring air in.1 in the middle to keep all that air moving and 2 in the back to get it all out.

[Tjappie]

2 fans in the front sucking air in and 2 in the rear blowin it out will be enough, place the 5th fan so it blows directly on your motor.
And my dreamcar is a Ford Escort RS Turbo (European model). it has a 1.6 litre turbo/intercooler engine with 132HP, but mine has about 180HP, and its only 960 kg.

[pro-4x4]

Jezzz No back seat Tjappie! Good choice and it is a Ford!

[Tjappie]

Well, it has a backseat, but no way people can sit there, the tires will rub.
I'll post some pics if you like.

[pro-4x4]

YEAH THAT WOULD BE COOL! When your ready.

My Truck puller motor may take a week-I'll give two with the New Years coming up.

[Tjappie]

The Truckpuller is awesome, but the endbell is locked with tabs. This is not a bad problem, the brushes and springs can be removed. Timing is set at 0.
I think its a 80x1 turn motor, the Team Orion Truck Orbital 2 is a 80x1 turn motor and it spins 6300rpm on bushings, the Truckpuller spins 6500rpm on bearings.
Here's my list of pro's and con's vs. Graupner speed 600
Pro's:
Mega-Torque
Low RPM, makes it possible to drive very slow
Bearings
Fits without mods, comes with wires/gold connectors
2 capacitors solderd between the + and -
More runtime: Don't know runtime yet but its probably more, could be double the runtime!!

Con's:
Expensive, 4x the cost of a Speed 600 (where I live)
It vibrates a little, but not much

And here's a list of the weight:
Truckpuller: 170gram
Stock Mabuchi: 160gram
Speed 600: 200gram

I can't make pics of my car now cause its frozen every day making the car white instead of black. Today everything is covered with a thin layer of frozen snow, but not enough to test the snowchains :(

[pro-4x4]

Well it's like most things isn't it! You pay for what you get- Sounds good to me. Boy I can't wait! I might even get other one for the Pajero? As I want it in the F-350 for now. Then into the new one which will be MY Hauler! No doubt I'll swap it around with the pajero as that slooooow control will be fantastic with crawling around. That's a bugger with the the snow- It's summer here! I think we will still be around when it melts!

[josh222]

wow a lot has happened in here :rolleyes: back on that nitro winch use a Cox mini glow engine :)

[pro-4x4]

Been sleeping it off Josh?!

[DCLXVI]

2 fans in the front sucking air in and 2 in the rear blowin it out will be enough, place the 5th fan so it blows directly on your motor.

It is better to cool something by sucking the hot air from it, not blowing cold air at it...

Anyhow...I got a Touareg a few days ago and have started to mod it (started to look at modding it rather)...I have not tried it yet though... :p

I'll post pics later...right now there's not much to see...

[SVTcobra04]

Jezzz No back seat Tjappie! Good choice and it is a Ford!

Yea go Ford!!

[Iglar_RC]

It is better to cool something by sucking the hot air from it, not blowing cold air at it...

I have to disagree with that one, I think its far more effective to cool something by blowing cold air onto/through it. Take a finned heatsink for example, it has many fins which increases it's surface area but it will only cool efficiently if there is a sufficient supply of cold air travelling between the fins for the heat to be transfered to.



I was wondering, is there anyone who makes a land rover defender, toyota landcruiser or similar bodies?

[DCLXVI]

I have to disagree with that one, I think its far more effective to cool something by blowing cold air onto/through it. Take a finned heatsink for example, it has many fins which increases it's surface area but it will only cool efficiently if there is a sufficient supply of cold air travelling between the fins for the heat to be transfered to.

Yes, exactly...that is why you suck air from the area to be cold, that way you don't get as much turbulence...put your hand behind a PC power supply, it blows air out of the PC to get better cooling of the different small cavitys on the power PCB...
Granted, cooling fins have a much smoother area so I don't think it matters as much...

Anyway, back to the topic...I'm thinking about using the TLT-1 dampers (for scale aperance) and to mount them on the axle (not on the lower links), anyone not any good ideas? I'm gonna look at using some old servo mounts, especially some from my TXT-1...they would work...

[SVTcobra04]

hers a rough sketch of wut it would look like.....1 big fan up front then another in the middle then 2 small ones in the back pushing air to a big one in very back. :D

[SVTcobra04]

or just sticking a comp fan in the middle to blow air on the engine and battery would work to.and make a little hinge so i could flip it up to get to stuff.

[Tjappie]

YES!! I just woke up, take a look outside and what do I see: SNOW!! Its not much, but its still snowing a little. I can finally test the snowchains :)
I found someone that sells a almost brandnew Kyosho Blizzard, I have to get it quick now!!!!

The snowchains don't work!! They get all clogged up with snow. Maybe I should add some more chain?
Pics:
http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak
The first pic is my real car :D

[pro-4x4]

SVTcobra04 hers a rough sketch of wut it would look like.....1 big fan up front then another in the middle then 2 small ones in the back pushing air to a big one in very back.

For the time being I would put a fan on the motor and one at the back-Then one on the front if really needed. I wouldn't worry about the two little one's as it will just be moving hot air into the rear fan. the best use of a fan is to have it ducted- a shroud to direct the air flow which this would take some time to make and then if you have to pull the motor or gearbox out for any reason it would be a task. Oh- It's hard to write with a mouse ah Cobra? ;)

[pro-4x4]

Tjappie YES!! I just woke up, take a look outside and what do I see: SNOW!! Its not much, but its still snowing a little. I can finally test the snowchains

Nice wheel's! :D Is it because it's more ice than snow? or if you had more wheel speed to clear the tire? Never driven in snow. Truck looking good with the deck on ;) Nice two tone car you have-Hmmm a wolf in sheeps clothing!! :cool:

Get your Blizzard????? Now that would be good in the snow! name say's it all. :D

[pro-4x4]

Anyway, back to the topic...I'm thinking about using the TLT-1 dampers (for scale aperance) and to mount them on the axle (not on the lower links), anyone not any good ideas? I'm gonna look at using some old servo mounts, especially some from my TXT-1...they would work...

All I can think of DCLXVI Is to make a C shape bracket that would wrap around the diff using the bolt that mounts the links on to! Do you know what I mean? Channel shape made from steel that slides over the diff housing and bolts up to the rear link bolt- on the back side of that you could mount a ball or nut and bolt. So the shock is nearly in the same place as with the standard arms. :confused: Do you get me!

[pro-4x4]

I was wondering, is there anyone who makes a land rover defender, toyota landcruiser or similar bodies?

Hey Iglar This is a lexen body cruiser- wheelbase I think the same or very close to the VW- Toyota (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCZ0&P=ML)

[pro-4x4]

Homemade (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=16263&id=754) On a XC Chassis. :cool:

[SVTcobra04]

4X4 I have a metal bender and all kinds of stuff to bend it and also the sheet metal......so I could make a shroud.And make the whole thing so i could just unscrew it and it would be off.It would take some time and planning but worthit.

[SVTcobra04]

and yea iot is hard to write with the mouse. :D

[pro-4x4]

Yeah it would be worth! Say the fan at the front-if you could duct cold air right onto your motor-or if you set the fan above your motor and run a ducting were it will pick up cold. I guess it's what will fit and work the best.

[SVTcobra04]

maybe ill get some cardboard and mmake cut it and fit it to see any problems i might have and so i could go off that as a template when i make the final.A computer fan would be kool cuz i could get it in neon light color :D

[DCLXVI]

All I can think of DCLXVI Is to make a C shape bracket that would wrap around the diff using the bolt that mounts the links on to! Do you know what I mean? Channel shape made from steel that slides over the diff housing and bolts up to the rear link bolt- on the back side of that you could mount a ball or nut and bolt. So the shock is nearly in the same place as with the standard arms. :confused: Do you get me!

Not quite but I think I'll let it rest for a few days...I have 10 days vacation next week so I have plenty of time then...

[pro-4x4]

I'll post a pic of what I mean tonight when I get home.

[pro-4x4]

Not quite but I think I'll let it rest for a few days...I have 10 days vacation next week so I have plenty of time then...

Getting a better idea what I mean?http://

[DCLXVI]

That is about what I thought you meant :) But it seems viable...I'll look into it next week...

[Tjappie]

I cut the rear fenders, so I can get full articulation. Got Duratrax shocks in the rear, but they have at least 5mm unused space in the shockbody, gonna try some longer shafts for even more arctic.
I also cut a hole in the chassis so the axle can move farther up:

[Tjappie]

Notice the difference? When I have longer shock shafts I'm gonna make custom shocktowers so I can mount the shocks higher

[pro-4x4]

Looks good Tj! Are you also going to trim the front fenders to gain that little extra?

[Tjappie]

Yeah when I have some shocks.

[pro-4x4]

HAPPY NEW YAER! bEFORE i GET CISSED AND A PRICKET!! 5 HOURS TO GOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

[Iglar_RC]

Thanks 4x4 for finding that body, I think I might actually buy that for my savage. :)

Happy New year to you to. Less than 3 hours to go now!

[mnster]

My all most complete Toyota jero Project truck, custom made Bumpers coming soon also higher shocks I'm going to make bars in the back and a alluminum skid in front and add lights, The tires I got for free from Hua's give away that i won the rims might go or what you guys think? I bought the jero for $35 shipped the way it looked in the first pic on maxxtraxx fourm Pics below,,,

[mnster]

Pic #2

[mnster]

Pic #3

[mnster]

Pic #4

[mnster]

Pic #5

[mnster]

Pic #6

[Iglar_RC]

Looking good mnster! I have also made a bumper for my winch to mount to but its pretty crusty. I'll probably make a nice new one out of aluminium. I want to make front bull bars ands nerf bars but I'm having trouble bending my metal to make the bars. :(

[pro-4x4]

Nice mnster! Is that Toyota blue? Dam close! Hmmmm The wheels don't do much for me. Nice deep dish chrome and little fatter tire's would be me, It's got nice big flared guards to fill.

Iglar- Are you using tube or soild to make your bull bars etc? If tube and you don't have a bender it's hard to make nice bends! Try a brake line tube bender!

[mnster]

The Toyota blue paint is very close I bought at Walmart and some clear. My truck does need new tires that are better then the stock how about the buggy Dirt Hawgs?? Do they grip good? And with some custom made bead locks. Truck runs great with my integy 55t motor of just Power run time is about 1 hour through a smc 3300 pack, pic's are going to come soon with the bumpers and a real working winch! The big flared guards I had to cut and strech and add some plastic then bondo it all up and sand, pics coming soon,,,

[pro-4x4]

With some nice rims and the dirt Hawgs which are fatter would look good, They are a softer compound than the BFG's and do grip well, The BFG'S have a better grip in the mud though. But overall a very good tire. I have them on my Pajero and it goes well crawling around as the tire moulds itself over the rocks better than the BFG's been softer compound.

[Iglar_RC]

Iglar- Are you using tube or soild to make your bull bars etc? If tube and you don't have a bender it's hard to make nice bends! Try a brake line tube bender!

Its solid stuff... What I've been doing is cutting a small bit away from the inside of the area which I will be bending. Its seems to be working so far but I jsut screwed it up on this one very tigh bend, I think because I didn't cut away enough on the inside and it broke.

pic's are going to come soon with the bumpers and a real working winch!

Cool, I'm also making a winch for my truck. How did you go about making it (I'm just looking for some ideas :confused: )? So far my plan is to have a small electric motor connected to a centrifugal clutch which drives a series of gears. I thought this is probably the best way to allow the cable to be easily unwound. Get what I'm saying?

[mr_pushrod]

Nice truck mnster, what is that shell? Am going to be stripping my new Pajero shell soon and repainting, just need to get my hands on a few stickers.......

[TT Supra 44]

I am new and I am thinking seriously about buying a pajero. I fell in love with the realism of the truck and some of yalls pictures. I have a few questions that maybe some of you could answer for me:

Is there anyway I could use a staight axle in the front? Maybe some type of custom 4-link setup or something? I want this sucker to be able to FLEX! I doubt it can flex too much with the Independent front suspension.

Is there a place on the web that shows you how to lift a jero?

Can you lift it enough to fit 2.2 size wheels and tires?

I am sure I will have many more questions, but I just can't think of them right now.

Thanks!

[mnster]

Cool, I'm also making a winch for my truck. How did you go about making it (I'm just looking for some ideas )?

I'm going to be using a high torque servo with the stops removed.


Is there anyway I could use a staight axle in the front? Maybe some type of custom 4-link setup or something? I want this sucker to be able to FLEX! I doubt it can flex too much with the Independent front suspension.

It looks like your looking for a custom TLT-1.

[josh222]

wow, i leave for a bit and dam a lot happens. All those pics look good, what kind of truck body is that?

[mustangjoe]

TT Supra, there isnt a whole lot you can do with the front. If you make a custom 4 link for the rear it can flex quite a bit. 2.2's will fit without much of a problem. I have three XC chassis as of right now. One is a jugg body project that i made a lengthened 4 link setup for. One is a new built Jeep chassis with a Pajero XB body. The last one is a NIB Isuzu MU, that i'll probably resell.

As far as buying a Pajero/XC goes, buy one you wont be disappointed.

Ive been watching this forum for quite some time and figured id chime in and help a newbie to the XC.

Thanks, Joe

[TT Supra 44]

Thanks mnster and mustangjoe, I'll probably just lift it as much as I can. I want to put Imex swamp dawgs on it (very scale). Is there a page on this forum that has maybe a parts list or something on lifting a jero? I've been doing a lot of reading and never really found a straight answer.

I just can't wait to get one of these things!

[pro-4x4]

Hi TTsupra On page 26 on this forum is the guide on the rear link set up-use Zillons one. Lifting the front you can trim the Hub carrier stops away and to get more even the bottom wishbone. But do the Hub carrier frist, You then can cut out a hole for your shock and mount it on top of your fender-Will need at lest 80-90mm shocks to be worth while. I think their is some photo's on page 43! Read that lot and see how you get on.

[Iglar_RC]

I'm going to be using a high torque servo with the stops removed.

Beside cutting off the stops you also have to cut out the inside of the main gear (easily done if it is plastic) where it fits onto the top of the potentiometer. Doing this will prevent the main gear from turning the potentiometer when it turns.

After that you just need to connect up the servo to a set of radio gear and take out the gears and housing. With the transmitter in neutral adjust the potentiometer on the servo with your fingers until the motor stop spinning. Now the servo will always think it is in neutral position so that as soon as you put the transmitter back into neutral it will stop. The perfect winch motor controlled by radio! :)

[josh222]

what pick up body was that on the other page?

[Combatcm]

I'll just post some eye candy.

I bought this car on ebay becuause I thought the body looked awesome. So, instead of using the car for fun I decided to throw the body on my jero and have a car that looks even better than the stock one and looks similar to the CRV, but looks more like an Izuzu amigo.

Be jealous, it's OK.

[Combatcm]

If my dreams come true the car will eventually look like this. These are ofna titan tires.

[pro-4x4]

Jezzzz Combatcm!! Those are huge tires!! Yeah the body does look good on.

[Combatcm]

Recent discovery...

The car I got the body from was called "red shaker" made by radioshack in 1996. By comparing the body in tamiyaclub.com I recently discovered that the radioshack body is in fact an exact copy, if not the same body used on the tamiya kits!. So, by purchasing this car, you can get an almost genuine tamiya Mu body, but without "Izuzu" on the bumper and without the decals.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img166_13082002233103_3.jpg

[mnster]

what pick up body was that on the other page?

A radioshack enforcer body.

[josh222]

ok thanks :) wow thats looks very much like a copy of the XC Chassi

[Combatcm]

Radioshack seems to make some good looking bodies.

[josh222]

yes the do some times but there RC are still crap :D one lil kid wanted to race my RS4 3 TYPE SS :D siad that his radio shack car was the best on the market, well he learned fast when my SS screamed down the road at 50mph :D

[Tjappie]

Hi guys, did some driving today, check out the pics:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v208/Tjappie/

I decided to fill the huge spaces in the chassis under the battery and steeringservo, cause they get filled with dirt. I used epoxy, this was so scary!! The epoxy got very hot! My tempgun said 180 F!! I was so scared my chassis was gonna melt or worse catch on fire! But after a few minutes it started to cool down. There are 2 pics of this in the album.
I also cut a hole in the rear of the chassis, so the axle can move a little farther up, 1 pic in the album.

[mnster]

Hi guys, did some driving today, check out the pics:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v208/Tjappie/

I decided to fill the huge spaces in the chassis under the battery and steeringservo, cause they get filled with dirt. I used epoxy, this was so scary!! The epoxy got very hot! My tempgun said 180 F!! I was so scared my chassis was gonna melt or worse catch on fire! But after a few minutes it started to cool down. There are 2 pics of this in the album.
I also cut a hole in the rear of the chassis, so the axle can move a little farther up, 1 pic in the album.

Looks like I have to sign in? :confused:

[Tjappie]

Hmmm, I didn't know that. I uploaded the pics here:
http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak

Some of the previews don't work, but the pics work.

[pro-4x4]

Going well TJ! ;) Your streeing holding up? Did you try another pinion to get more wheel speed? :confused: Mine isn't here yet!- truck puller that is! :(

[Tjappie]

Well, the steering mod isn't finished, but I wanted to drive so badly I just red-locktite the nuts. Its holding up, but I hope I can take it apart again. Ah well, nothing a dremel can't fix.
I haven't tried fitting another pinion. There is so little space to move the motor a little, but if others can do it, I can do it :D

[Combatcm]

I just took my steering system apart and won't put it back together unless I find a better way of steering it. It's not until when you move the steering tube freely while not connected to the linkages that you really find out how stiff it is. I might try something with flanged bearings to get it to work again. Is their any sites that have a mod like this on them?

[josh222]

I am going to start to look for a job now and that means a Pajero might come my way in a bit, if i can find a job it will take about 3-4 months to get one because i have to save 50% of my money :( :D

[pro-4x4]

This the only one i know of- here (http://www.bauteil1.de/xc_lenkung.htm) :)

[SVTcobra04]

we need a english version :D ........Im working on a little mod now to keep water,dirt,dust and other things pajs like to go thru out of the engine/tranny/electronics bay(i dont know wut u would call it).Anyway im gonna put thin sheet metal peices on the side of the chassis.only problem i see is it looks kinda....bad :( ....but it would get the job done just fine.should i silicone it to the chassis or screw it.Any problems there mite be with this that i havnt thought of.(theres alot of space between the body and chassis)

[Doomed]

This the only one i know of- here (http://www.bauteil1.de/xc_lenkung.htm) :)

That is a very nice unit, a bit spendy, but worth it if your crawling.

[Combatcm]

My car isn't even going to touch the ground unless I find a better way of steering it. It's not until you take off all the linkages and turn it that you realize how inefficient it is. Though, mine has scratch marks from dirt it it. Some universals may be in order also. I wonder if the TL01 ones work. I would think so.

[mnster]

I'm going to see what I can do for steering. I'll try to lathe out something on the lathe tonight see what happens.

[pro-4x4]

I'm going to see what I can do for steering. I'll try to lathe out something on the lathe tonight see what happens.

Keep us posted-am interested with what you come up! :)


Here's a cheap Mitz! Pajero (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5947958653&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT)
Had to show it!

[mnster]

Well I got it! I found some flanged bearings in my bucket o parts that fit the chassis hole. I machined a shaft that fits through the bearings and connects to the lower bellcrank. I found a new bellcrank to use for the top and now it works great. Much smoother. I'll get some pics up soon.

[pro-4x4]

That would great mnster!!

[Combatcm]

what size bearings?

[mnster]

I have no idea what the bearing size is I do know their from a Associated car so they are not metric. I could measure them with a caliper I'm no good converting decimals to fractions though. The upper bellcrank is from a MRC Q-tee coupe.

Well anyway here is some pics.

[mnster]

some more

[mnster]

The last one

[KeithLuneau]

Hi, just thought I'd stop in a drop a couple pictures of my XC. Alot of you have seen it, alot or familiar names around here... :D

Anyway, here it is...
There are more in our forums at www.scale4x4rc.us

[KeithLuneau]

This one is a newer one showing of the new front skidplate...

[pro-4x4]

I have no idea what the bearing size is I do know their from a Associated car so they are not metric. I could measure them with a caliper I'm no good converting decimals to fractions though. The upper bellcrank is from a MRC Q-tee coupe.

Well anyway here is some pics.

When see your pics it looks like a smiple job doesn't it!? Thanks for that :D

Nice rig Keith!! :cool:

[SteveK]

I just picked up a Parma Trailblazer body, and it looks pretty good. I'll need to extend the wheelbase about 1/2", but I think just using the rear set of holes will work. I don't know if the LWB trucks use a different driveshaft, but there might be enough slack to reach with the extended wheelbase.

[pro-4x4]

Hey Steve It should work ok with moving the rear arms to the other mounts- It may be spot on or just a mm out, If you have rods with turnbuckles on them you can fine tune the lenght with them.

[SteveK]

Yeah, I have turnbuckles, so I am worried about the driveshaft more than that.

[Zillon]

I believe the longer wheelbase CRV used a different rear shaft, if I'm not mistaken. The stock shaft won't extend far enough.

I've picked up a new body to replace the Pajero. :eek:

Please excuse the poor picture quality, I forgot to adjust the camera.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/Zillon/mu/zumu1.jpg

[KeithLuneau]

Yeah, Zillon's right, the CRV used a longer driveshaft. Moving the links to the rear set of holes makes the wheel base 1" longer. You'll have to either gut the longer driveshaft from Tamiya, or build one up from Traxxas parts. I've been using on made form Stampede rear sliders for a long time now with no problems. My metal one wore out pretty quick.

[pro-4x4]

Yeah forgot to say the driveshaft is 105mm for the honda or VW. Just some 5 mm shaft will work, That's what I used on the F-350. Open up the clamped end of the pajero shaft-pushed the pin out and put the new shaft in- Of coruse you have drilled a new hole and etc!

[pro-4x4]

Here's a VW and Pajero

[pro-4x4]

I just opened this area up in line with the slot and dropped the pin out! you can just see the slot.

[pro-4x4]

Easy to do. - MU's looking like another winner Zillon! :cool:

[SteveK]

Thanks for the info. Now where can I get some 5mm rod? :) I think I remember a guy from a website used an Allen wrench for his TXT-1.

Anybody have a Traxxas Stampede they can borrow the slider shaft from? Don't know if they are long enough, might have to use Maxx shafts. I was browsing at the LHS, and it seemed like it would be pretty pricey to do that, though.

[pro-4x4]

Got an old screwdriver laying around that's 5m shaft!?

How long can you wait-I'll post it to you!

[mustangjoe]

hey, psssst look over here http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZmustangjoeanddenise64QQsorec ordsperpageZ25QQsosortpropertyZ1

just figured if anybody was interested id let you all know. If this is against any rules, let me know and i wont do it again.

[Zillon]

If only I had the cash, Joe.

I'll let you know about the Pajero soon.

[pro-4x4]

Hmmmm The Blizard looks tempting-oh and the Mu- and the wheels - Oh are they free! (not)

[mustangjoe]

No problem zillion, it isnt going anywhere soon. :)

[pro-4x4]

How's the driveshaft coming along Steve? Got it sorted.

[SVTcobra04]

i think he is getting it measured at his LHS sometime this week he said.

[SteveK]

Yeah, I'm bringing the truck out with me when I get a chance, but I'm working so much I don't want to leave the house when I get home LOL. Even if it costs me a little more, it will be worth it to get sliders over buying 5mm rod or having it machined, because I can adjust the wheelbase without swapping shafts in and out.

Plus the workshop in the basement is FREEZING right now. Time to drop $30 on a small space heater.

[SVTcobra04]

it snowed like....almost 2 inches.I wish i had my paj water proofed then i could take it out :) .I was thinking ya know how snow sometimes melts and then freezes so theres a layer of ice over the snow.well that would be a perfect ice playground for a paj. :D

[Zillon]

We have 8 inches here. Little too much for running the XC.

Besides, I don't have my Mu body finished yet anyway. :cool:

[SVTcobra04]

so where did everyone go?this forum is like dead now.post ppl post :D

[pro-4x4]

Still here! Slowly getting my parts together for my new truck!

[josh222]

wow looks nice :)

[Tjappie]

I'm still here too!! But lately I've been at Scale4x4.
I got some snow pics but something strange is going on at ******, gotta find another place to post.

[Tjappie]

****** works again:
http://www.******.net/member/Kyoshofreak

[microrcdude]

MAN THAT IS AWESOME! Did you make that body?

[Tjappie]

No, I only made the rear part, the front is made by Bruder, a toy company, had to cut it a bit to fit. More pics are on the way...

[Combatcm]

Whats the word on a bearing steering upgrade? Mines sitting around and dying to get it together for the shallow snow. I'll see what I can do. I hope I can rig something.

[TT Supra 44]

I hate to say it guys but it looks like the pajero.....is........well.......Discontinued!!!! (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUV00&P=) :confused:

[pro-4x4]

Well it was on it's way out as not many places where stocking them or able to get them in. Have to see if it's tower only or it is Tamiya itself? I would say Tamiya myself.

[Tjappie]

They have the Touareg, and pretty big change they bring out another car. I think Tamiya is smart and checks what the consumer likes, that's why they still sell some off their chassis

[isabelly]

they are still here and a pretty good price to
http://www.southeastrc.com/item/TAM57701

[pro-4x4]

Yes I agree Tj- Same chassis with new body, VW is one after this runs out? maybe a toyota body with this chassis?

[Tjappie]

Could be anything, like a Hummer 2

[Combatcm]

Computer down time = RC car time. I've come up with a simple BB steering mod. It uses the same parts just some slightly drill and dremel modded parts. If my instructions confuse you, I may feel like dismantling it and take pictures.

Parts

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK192&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD088&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXR938&P=ML

Collers, rod and bearings, thats it.

1. Undue all the front parts, take off the front skid unit, dogbones, tires, everything.

2. Press the bearings on the top and bottom of the steering tube.

3. cut the plastic tube off of the top steering link, just cut the part that normally goes through the steering tube.

4. Bore out the top and bottom steering arms to 3/8"

5. Notice the collers ID is the same diameter as the tube and the collers OD is the same diameter that you just bored out of the upper and lower arms.

6. Glue the collers inside the bored arms. I cut horizontal channels in it so it will stick better. I also put a hole in the side of both arms so you can insert set screws.

7. The rest is self explanatory, slip the tube in and tighten the set screws and cut it to lenght, I slotted the tube where the set screws go and threadlocked it. One of them slipped before that.

You have to watch where you put the set screws so you can access them. Put the upper one toward the center of the chassis and the lower one facing out (you can barely reach this one).

I can lock to full lock the wheels on asphalt and steer everywhere in the middle. I'm using a HS625 servo with it.

[pro-4x4]

Wow Combatcm That's a good way to go, Have you got or get get a photo? Just from the top would be good. I'll have to order some parts!!!!!!!

[biggusditchus]

combatcm that sounds cool but I really need a photo or preferably photos to fully understand what you have done. Need to do something bout my steering its abysmal.

[Combatcm]

Here it is, my TRF pajero, well not really TRF, but it did say "Hop up option" on the sticker package. Not bad for an old radioshack shell.

[Combatcm]

I use these tires for fun for donuts and stuff, while I use the bigger spike tires for unstoppable performance. I have the reciever mounted on top of the inside of the body, the ESC is sort of "floating" in the center of the chassis. After every run I am suprised to fing the chassis mostly dry, I love the fenders.

[pro-4x4]

Looks great Combatcm! Those tires are pretty gripy-nice soft compound. Are you going to do anything with the front grill? I think you need to maybe paint the grill or something to break all the chrome.
I have ordered those parts you listed for the steering- Can you get a pic of what you have done?? Would be good if you can.

Anyway the MU is looking good!!!

[Combatcm]

I will try, I threadlocked the set screws so they might not come out with my crappy L wrenches. Being its a done state, it will be a little harder to see exactly what I had done to it. But I will try to get a few pictures together and maybe perhaps a real guide.

[SS Pede]

Hey everyone,
I've been reading this entire thread from start to finish over the past few days. I really like the scale look of the XC chassis. And those German trials trucks are awesome! I want one! Especially one of the 8-wheelers. :) All I can say is 8-wheel drive plus 8-wheel steering equals awesome! I wish those trucks were more easily available in the U.S...though they may be totally custom built anyways.

So someday I may buy a Race Touareg. It's not exactly a truck like those German ones, but it's scale and stuff. Back in the day I used to go "crawling" with my old 4wd radio shack trucks, before I knew anything about hobby grade RC. But I don't exactly want a ridiculously big-tired Clod or anything like that. I'd like to "enjoy the scale feel," like someone said on one of the previous pages. So that's where I stand right now, just checking in because I enjoyed reading this thread. Funny, I have a Radio Shack Enforcer holed up in my room. The pics of that bluish truck a few pages back give me a better idea of the Touareg's size. I could even try using the body if I wanted.
Anybody have a Traxxas Stampede they can borrow the slider shaft from?
SteveK - I don't know if you got an answer to your question or not. I have a Stampede and I have easy access to the sliders, because they have been replaced by CVD's. Do you need me to measure the length for you or something?

-SS

[4wdmt]

guys, just a quick question. i have a pajero xb and i want to buy a "plastic" tamiya jeep wrangler body from ebay. will it fit? (without changing the stock wheel base) and do i need extra parts if ever to make it fit?

thank you.

[Combatcm]

Let's begin...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXK192&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXD088&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...?&I=LXR938&P=ML

Collers, rod and bearings, thats it.

Your also going to need a dremel, some epoxy or CA glue (I used CA).

First of all you need to get the bearings on. These are press fit. My bottom one press fit, but I needed to drill to get the top one on. If the bearings don't fit grab my handy tools like in the picture and drill 5mm down or so, just enough to get the bearing in there. I did it like that just so I won't overdue things and the bearing becomes loose. The drill bit is 3/8"

[Combatcm]

Take the rod and cut it down to 2", that's all you need. You may want to polish the rod with a wire wheel so it passes through the bearing easier. The rod I bought didn't need to be any smaller, it just needed smoothing. After you cut the rod it might have a small flair at the end making it impossible to pass through the bearings, just taper the end with whatever grinding instrument you have and it will go through easier.

Now you need to take that 3/8" drill bit and bore out the bottom and top link pieces. If you notice the stock steering channel was cut on the top link, see the picture for where it is.

Be careful when drilling, an off center drilling will leave the walls thin. I used a bench vise to hold it and it squeezed it a little bit and made one side thinner than the other.

[Combatcm]

Your going to want to cut vertical slots in the coller just so it can withstand more torque. I cut 3 equally spaced ones. The pictures are just an example.

[Combatcm]

Now to put the collers in. Refer to the picture where where the set screws are located when you glue the collers in.

[Combatcm]

Gluing them in is tricky, make sure the set screw hole lines up with the collers set screw hole. Coat the outside of the coller and the inside of the link hole with CA, but make sure none gets in the set screw hole. Pass it in as cleanly as possible then look to see if the screw holes line up. If they don't, nudge it in position by sticking a small drill bit through the holes and moving the coller around till the holes line up. Notice that the collers are flush with the bottom of the top link and top of the bottom link.

[Combatcm]

The rest is just putting the shaft through, tightening the collers and dremeling any bottom skidplate that binds. Slotting the shaft can be done with steady hand, a good eye, a permanent marker and a dremel cut off wheel.

[Combatcm]

The set screw on the top link.

[Tjappie]

DUDE!!! You improved my steering mod, great job. Mine is a lot like yours, especiallt the drilling and smooting, but i just nuts instead of collars and they keep coming loose.
Well done, I'm gonna try that mod.

[pro-4x4]

Thanks Combatch That's awesome! My parts are on their way. Very good work. Thanks.

[Combatcm]

Thanks, I hope more people can get to use their car to it's fullest.

In the "set screw locations" picture, a nut is in the link to weigh it down so it doesn't fall over for the picture, if that confused anyone.

[Zillon]

Damn.

http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?showtopic=841

It's a shame the Touareg is so ugly.

[Combatcm]

http://www.krikke.net/shop/rc/nl/dept_90.html

That pajero is really nice. I kind of want to save for that. It's based on the FG buggies with ABS fenders.

[minijosh]

Why is this in the other forum when it should be in the electric off road? Anyways, I'm trading one of my old touring cars for a hardshelled Pajero and I'm excited to join the ranks. Should I keep it stock or mod it to death? I'm going to read up on what's been written but what are some of the first things besides bearings and mod motor that I should do to it?

[pro-4x4]

Well minijosh Is the rear diff locked? if not I would, next rear 4 link suspension. These two mods work make it a whole new truck! oh and a esc if not already.

[josh222]

I finaly got that job :D so in the summer i am 100% sure i am buying one :) Well now that there discontinued :( i will look for one off ebay or if i realy have to buy the Touareg

Sorry I have been gone for so long, Glen did you get the F-350 finished i still have those pics you sent me back a while ago

[jocktheglide165]

great tamiya has discontinued the pajero XB at towerhobbies man now I gotta find one on ebay.

[josh222]

You can get the Touareg off tower but you are gona have to go ebay hunting for the Jero, i am hoping the prices won't be to high by July :(

[jocktheglide165]

yeah I seen that I guess they are replacing the pajero with the toureg both are same chassis I believe, but different bodies. I found some one bay for 230 and 15 shipping. Or currently one is going right now on ebay for 175 what do you think I should do the buy it now for 245 shipped?

[minijosh]

I found out that my rear diff is locked so that one is down. What pinion do u guys run with what motor? I think it is fully ball raced so I'm good in that part. Oh time to use Eazy Off to take off the crap paint job. Man I love hard shells.

[josh222]

if you afourd the the new one get it, new is better than used if the used is stock

[jocktheglide165]

if you afourd the the new one get it, new is better than used if the used is stock

well I bought one for 245 shipped just because its discontinued and i been holding off getting one for 6 months now.

[josh222]

i ahve been wanting one since like the 25page :D ohh well, i should have enough for one at the end of june

[Combatcm]

I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 pajeros that are still at the $200 mark. Then sell them in a few months for 240 or something and make some profit. I wish tower still had them. I would've done that a month ago had I known this.

[jocktheglide165]

I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 pajeros that are still at the $200 mark. Then sell them in a few months for 240 or something and make some profit. I wish tower still had them. I would've done that a month ago had I known this.

I agree tower had them for 200/piece and add in the 30 coupon right now that be 170 gheezzz.............

[cdm]

I think I'm going to buy 4 or 5 pajeros that are still at the $200 mark. Then sell them in a few months for 240 or something and make some profit. I wish tower still had them. I would've done that a month ago had I known this.
sadly they are mass produced and have no value. Especially when you have the touareg out on the same chassis. :rolleyes:

[jocktheglide165]

sadly they are mass produced and have no value. Especially when you have the touareg out on the same chassis. :rolleyes:

true, but if you have a official release of product such as pajero instead of buying the touareg then putting on a pajero body is not the same becuase you dont have the box and original documents with it. Thats like saying you can go out and build the bruiser from other parts of the tamiya and call it bruiser, but its not the same as original bruiser. Same with pajero its no the same as original.

[minijosh]

Does anyone know of a company that makes a alloy motor mount? I remember seeing one somewhere or is my mind playing tricks on me again? Which pinion 16 or 20 would work better for a 27 turn motor? I don't want high speeds but more ground force with some high speeds. I"m asking because I have to order from Tower at $6 for the 17 and 16 and another $6 for the 20 and 21.

[josh222]

Imight end up going the Touareg route and buying a Pajero body fromTamiya. On the tamiya website it says the touareg comes with an ESC but to says it has none

[4wdmt]

in my local hobby shop, they say the touareg doesnt include an esc. maybe there are 2 versions? one with and one without?

[cdm]

true, but if you have a official release of product such as pajero instead of buying the touareg then putting on a pajero body is not the same becuase you dont have the box and original documents with it. Thats like saying you can go out and build the bruiser from other parts of the tamiya and call it bruiser, but its not the same as original bruiser. Same with pajero its no the same as original.

my point is there is nothing original about it. the bruiser has a functional transmission and is mostly metal if you want to use at as an example.

anyhow, wait a few months and put some on ebay or wherever and watch the results. You can probably get the retail but over that.. doubtfull.

then again i've been proven wrong a few times.

[josh222]

Well if i can find a Pajero in good shape i will buy it if not i will buy the Touareg and get the pajero body

[jocktheglide165]

I bought the cross country setup for the pajero setup whats that do just lower your suspension?
here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5959678237&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

[josh222]

It basicaly makes it an onroad truck, won't have any suspension travel or crawling ability left but hey it shouldn't roll any more

[cdm]

Ironically the 'jero flips more often than it rolls.. i would give anything for a good 4 door version full size model! That would look incredible. Oh well.. tamiya never listens.

[josh222]

When i get my xc chassi truck i am going to buy bearings and an esc for it right away

[jocktheglide165]

got my pajero XB I have to say its very cool looking its so detailed I keep looking at the chassis and body and see things that I see on the real one. Man this is cool...........

[josh222]

YA thats why i rreally want one, but i should get one eventualy

[jasonw]

I just finished building the VW yesturday morning. Dose anyone mind if I talk about it here? The VW thread seems to not realy be used as much as this one. The VW dose in fact come with an ESC A TAMIYA ESC witch to my surprize has been awsome for crawling. I barly gets warm to the touch while crawling and all my other LRP and DTX ESC's get boiling hot when runing at low speeds like that. I am not impresed with the rear shock mounting on the VW were it mounts to the links on the rear end, is there any way to fix this? That mount is just way to weak. Also I posted that I was going to toss the VW body as it was a VW and I dont like them but this body actualy looks awsome. I painted it the same silver as my S-10 so my crawlers will match

[cdm]

The ESC with the kits is not really designed to operate at low speeds for long periods of time. Something about the resistors getting hot and burning up... or so tamiya claims. I've been abusing my XB kits and nothing has died yet.. even set the motor on fire on one (4wd burn out greatness) a few times and it still works..

The VW is the same chassis so you can do the custom 4 link. Everything for the pajero will work actually as long as you compensate for the longer wheelbase.

[jasonw]

Dose anyone notice the gear train in the CC chassis is a lot louder than any other conventional R/C car? The gears in my VW sounded bad so I tookk it back apart and checked and everythign was meshed good and put together properly and working smooth but they sound a heck of a lot louder than they should is this right or did I miss somthing?

[pro-4x4]

Yes the gears are louder mainly because their is so many, but some are louder than others, I have three and they all sound slightly diffrerent.

[jasonw]

ok cool thanks. I was a little worried but gues there is no need to be. On the first trip there was a small clicking sound when I would let off the gas but it went away quickly and I figured maybe I forgot to trim some of the tree off of one of the gears. Also the front passenger tire was rubing so I took it apart thismorning and found the little hex hub rubbing on the bearing so now that is fixed. Hopfully tomorow will be nice and I will go out and work on a new CC trail system that I have been thinking about on my property

[nitro_newbie]

hey mnster were did u get that toyota body and how did u lift ur pajero?it looks sweet all lifted and with that toyota bod!:):):) toyota's rock!!!! there my favorite truck esspecially the '85

thanx


nitr~newbie:):):)

[jasonw]

Man am I having fun with this VW. My flash card reader burned up on me and I wont be going into town for a new one untill Monday so I will upload all my pictures at that time. I am also trying to plan out an XC trail system on my property but unfortunaly the whole acer is fairly flat so its going to take a lot of work to make a nice trail system.

[jasonw]

Can anyone tell me what the wheel base to the VW is? If not can you tell me how to properly mesure the wheel base? Thanks

[mnster]

Can anyone tell me what the wheel base to the VW is? If not can you tell me how to properly mesure the wheel base? Thanks

Wheel base is axle to axle measure from the direct center of the wheel nuts front to back.

[SteveK]

Dose anyone notice the gear train in the CC chassis is a lot louder than any other conventional R/C car? The gears in my VW sounded bad so I tookk it back apart and checked and everythign was meshed good and put together properly and working smooth but they sound a heck of a lot louder than they should is this right or did I miss somthing?

To add to this, the entire rear end is metal, and there is some 'noise' from the center driveshaft as well. The gears are also a somewhat coarse pitch, which helps durability but makes them louder.

[jasonw]

is there anywhere I can buy skid plates for the CC Chassis? My transfer case and rear end are realy geting beat up on the rocks. Thanks a million

[Combatcm]

A while ago I bought some aluminum flashing (Little shingles of aluminum) to use as skidplates. You can cut it with scissors easily and wrap, bend and bolt wherever you want. While not very strong, it does keep any part of your car free of scratches. I bought it at home depot, look near the brick section.

Finally, I found the time to get a movie going.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51275

[SS Pede]

Looks like your truck rolled over. What motor is in there?

I don't know if you guys saw my first post in this forum, it's on page 57. Explains my background a little more. :)

[maxxmanxxx]

thanks doomed:)

one more question

what does the cross country torque splitter do?


It splits the front drive from the rear.Its used for racing.If you put one in youl have locked diffs but youl hve 4wd forward and two wheel reverse it makes it so you can turn while heavy braking.

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, i need a huge favor! i just lost one of my tamiya 5 mm grub screws (should have used more thread lock...i know) but please if anyone has one lying around please let me know! tower is out till april!!!

[mnster]

hey guys, i need a huge favor! i just lost one of my tamiya 5 mm grub screws (should have used more thread lock...i know) but please if anyone has one lying around please let me know! tower is out till april!!!

Is that the drive shaft set screw? I might have some extras

[littlebuddha]

yep it sure is! that would be great- i have spring break and my car is out...

you got PM!

[rcmtdriver2000]

Got this one and started to mod it recently still working on it though. This project has been going for a little while.

http://www.******.net/img/51978

http://www.******.net/img/51979

http://www.******.net/img/51687

http://www.******.net/img/51698

[minijosh]

What did you have to do to your truck to get those 2.2's on there? Anything special? I have a hardshell pajero and I'd like to make it more american hehe.

[SVTcobra04]

im back..kinda forgot about this forum :D

[ILuvMyB4]

these little trucks are so cool. i would get one if i want going for a mini inferno or a TLT.

[Combatcm]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/combatcm/borkenbumper.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/combatcm/gearbox.jpg

Bumper broke from a skatepark incident. I was mudding with it at the unraceable wet track. The water was over the tires but it never stopped chugging. That's why I have the thread on the sealed tires, so the tires keep slinging mud instead of getting bogged, they might help it float better too.

That gearbox is a mess, I'm just going to hose it down, spray some spray lube in it then grease it. The gears have lasted a while. I wish I brought the camera, the water was churning over the body it was really fun.

[jocktheglide165]

man my pajero cant stay on its wheels I put the novak SS5800 in it and its so funny watching it run the top wobbles back and forth and then eventually tips over at the slightest turn radius. What kind of aftermarket support does the pajero have? I have the low rider kit I still need to install.

[jocktheglide165]

you suppose to glue the tires????? I keep hearing my tires squeal out when I go full throttle. here are some videos I really messed up bad I had a good video going where I was climbing this rocky hill and couldnt make, but it was fun watching the pajero try to climb it, but darn me I didnt have my camera on :rolleyes:


http://www.******.net/img/53681


http://www.******.net/img/53680

[Combatcm]

I glued the inside of my stock tires so I wouldn't mess up the part you could actually see.

This picture is with the air filled tires I just made. Using silicone sealant to set the bead and drilling no holes in anything. So they are authentic air filled tires. I drove them around a little and the turning radius opened about a foot or two on hard surfaces. But when you drive it over jagged rocks you can see the tires conform the the outside of rocks and other surface junk. When going over 5mph the outside tires outer wall flexes almost the the point of the rim scraping, which would'nt be good. Now I have to take it easy.

[Combatcm]

My steering system broke. Apparently the epoxy or CA bond to the modified collets can break under stress.

I am working on a new crank method where the stock servo saver is mounted to in the middle of the chassis and the brace. The side mounted servo swings the saver, which swings the turnbuckles. It will take a lot of abuse, but the servo woulld have to be mounted on the side of the chassis, making it exposed to rocks and stuff, but under normal circumstances it could be fine.

After many runs, the air filled tires work great.

Victory, I just finished the new steering. It's got some play, but it will be better than the stock version and it's way smoother.

[Combatcm]

It's mounted on the side, but its the highest I could do it. I doubt anything rub it to the point of something failing.

[mnster]

My latest mud pictures from today.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/silverdude/IM000496.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/silverdude/IM000497.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/silverdude/IM000509.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72/silverdude/IM000514.jpg

[Doomed]

Great muddin' pics mnster, love the Toyo body also. :cool:

[maxxmanxxx]

is that the enforcer body? very nice

[jasonw]

Just wanted to share some pictures of the progress I have made on my VW well as you can see its not a VW anymore. Hope you like them


http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/esctrail/9.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/esctrail/7.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/esctrail/5.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/esctrail/1.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/l1.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/l2.jpg
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/l3.jpg

[mnster]

Wow! That looks real with the lights on and all. Looks really nice.

[cdm]

Impressive! Which body did you use? I've been trying to locate an escalade myself.

[jasonw]

Yeh I am verry verry happy the way it came out. I still plan to add some supper bright fog lights. As you can see on the front bumper there are already lenses I just need to add the light. I also need to fill in the holes in the roof that use to house the buttons for all the actions the toy use to do that I took the body from. You should have seen them staring at me when I took out my tape mesure at Kmart and started mesuring everyhting then geting verry excited when the mesurments all matched. I think I was more excited than my 2 year old was LOL:) The toy also has some light up spinners that I would like to put on my XC just for $hits and giggles but I dont know yet.
CDM I got this body at K-mart. It was a little toy that light up when you pushed buttons on the roof. I would liek to note that this body will not fit the jero. The chassis is that of TAMIYAS new VW and has a 10.5" wheel base. Dont get my wrong our chassis are the same but yours if not already done will need modifications to fit this body. The lights I am using for both high and low beem and the tail lights were already instaled and wired I just had to wire them to my 4 AA battery holder with an inline switch and there ya go. I am curently using my Airtronics MX3 radio for the XC and I am researching using its 3rd channel to remotly turn the lights on and off. Thanks for the compliments I love it and sence I have yet to see an Escalade used in our wanderfull world of XC scale R/C's so I could not pass this up. I am not sure if I am supose to do this and hope not to be delted but if you goto http://s8.invisionfree.com/Scale_4x4_RC/index.php?showtopic=1258 I have a million more pictures of the Escalade in action. Hope you like.

[cdm]

Thanks.. I'll be off to kmart to grab me a few before they run out. Nothing will really bolt on to the pajero XC which is why the touareg seems like a better platform to replace it.

And i take it it's not lexan either. Wohoo :)

Thanks again for sharing those. I am in love.

[ILuvMyB4]

Whats the difference between the touareg and the pajero? I've been thinking about getting either a pajero or a touareg but I want the better car for off-roading and crawling.

[cdm]

Pajero is discontinued and the only difference is the longer wheel base. Actually the chassis is the same, they just pushed the rear arm mounts further to the rear and hooked up a longer driveshaft (which as far as i know you can't readily find anywhere).

[Combatcm]

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=54908

This is what mine sees everytime I run it.

[Jimmy33]

Hey guys cant actually remember if I have posted on this board before but I have read in from end to end many many times. Ive had my XC, a mu for about 6 months now and love it loads and currently decided and looking for a new body - doubt it will be as good as any one yours though! I havnt locked my diff yet as I dont do much rock crowling but i do do fast runs on tracks and stuff - its a GREAT vehicle! Any other ideas for upgrading as it gets used on and off road?

James :D

[cdm]

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=54908

This is what mine sees everytime I run it.

I thought i detected a rear suspension problem but i decided i would watch the whole video before posting.. i see i was correct :eek: :p

[ILuvMyB4]

hmm... are these good on the track or are they just good off-road? they seem like they wouldnt jump very well because they look like they would bounce or roll on the landing, especially due to the high CG. :confused:

[cdm]

They are not made to jump. Why would you jump one?

[Macdaddy4738]

how much are these?

And most importantly...where did you get that truck body?!

[ILuvMyB4]

I would jump one on something out at the construction site near my house. I was just wondering too becuase its always fun to launch an rc car off a huge jump but looking at a touareg, it looks like it would beef it big time.

[ILuvMyB4]

how much are these?

And most importantly...where did you get that truck body?!
the escalade body with the lights came from a k-mart toy. pajero's are discontinued as said before but the new race touareg is around $190 without the radio gear and servo. it doesnt come with a very good motor or ESC so i would upgrade those anyways. :D

[Zillon]

I have a few pics I took back in March, but never uploaded. Been really busy with school, racing, and my own site.

These are with the new wheels, looks much nicer I think.

None of these pics are posers, I drove the truck into each shot.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar059.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0510.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0511.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0512.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0513.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0514.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/Zillon2/jero2/jeromar0516.jpg

Enjoy!

http://mysite.verizon.net/~fullthrottle322/sigs/jerosig7.gif (http://www.teammayhem.com)

[4wdmt]

wow, some of the pics looks so scale.

[jasonw]

I can agree more with driving your rig into a shot. Nothing looks more crapy or makes the individual look like more of a looser than placing your truck on some imposable to climb rocks and snapping a shot. I love to see what these trucks are made of but when someone snaps a shot they did not drive into it makes you think twice about any shot they do in the future.

[Doomed]

Sweet pics Zillon!

http://www.pbase.com/doomed/image/43587768/original.jpg

[TT Supra 44]

Nice pics everybody!

Love the first one mnster. I can't wait to get mine!

[minijosh]

Is that a Mini Z?