RC10L Owners Unite!

[Loki133]

Im starting a post for 10L owners! The tried and true pan can of the ages! The decendant of the RC500 and the like that started the sport all together! The RC10L STILL is one of the fastest electric cars you can buy, and as Cliff Lett has some nicely shown us with his speed run 10L (over 110 miles per hour) one of the fastest cars in the sport! Not to mention it wins races like it's going out of style.
Simplicity! Esthetics! Speed! Fun! The marrage of Fiberglass and carbon fiber in a beaufitul union of speed and handling, what more could you possibly want??
Anyways I figured the car needed a thread. Ive been out of the sport for 11 years and I just got a new 10L the other day and I'm getting ready for some speed. I'll post a pic when Im done fooling about with my new body.
10L owners! Unite! Post!
-Loki

[nitrodriver]

heres my rc10L:

[nitrodriver]

but i like this better :D

[Loki133]

Right on. a post! I thought I was all alone in the world of the 10L, the worlds fastest R/C car to date. Im sure if Serpent wanted to they could make one faster, but I dont think they want to take on the awesome power of the 10L. Well anyways, once I get a body painted or two Ill post em.
Word
Loki

[Loki133]

Here are a few bodies I have been working on for my 10L

[Loki133]

Mo'

[MarkA]

BTW, you may to hit “refresh” once to make it show up for some reason.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

HEY BROTHERS!!
Heres my original 10L I use an 11 turn triple w/411P Tekin ESC. In stock racing, back in the day, I ran a B&R BULLET motor. That sure was a VERY fast stock motor in its day. 44 degree timing.
Still running although not to often. Into nitro MT's now.
The body is a AE Penske INDY.
I did that body scheme during my college days was working at Domino's Pizza Had it displayed at the store for a while too. Well before I smashed up the body.

[Sycotickid]

Ive been out for a while myself about 10 years and things have changed! Im posting under my sons nic for now till I register. I was dusting off my old 10l and was wondering if it can be converted to nitro? would it be competitive?
Thanks
Snyiper

[tarheelquality]

I have a brand new 10l graphite i just built and was wondering if any of you knew a place online to buy pan car wheels and tires?

Thanks:)

[Deznuts05]

hey check me out!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73688


I'm coming back baby!

[MarkA]

Originally posted by tarheelquality
I have a brand new 10l graphite i just built and was wondering if any of you knew a place online to buy pan car wheels and tires?

Thanks:)

Try www.rc4less.com . They have a good selection of BSR foam and capped tires.

[fiat22turbo]

No more road racing in the area... I originally started out with a Bolink Sport w/the Chrysler LeBaron body on it.

I graduated to the RC10L. After experimenting with the Bolink a bit of course.

Before the racing dried up and I got invovled in full size racing I had a set of 1.5" rear tires mounted on the front with 2" wide rears man tha tcar stuck like glue!

So does anyone run th Trinity Reactive Caster front suspension? I always liked the longer arms associated with that. Tends to make the camber change less.

Here's to keeping yours alive!

Stefan
Portland, OR
RC10DS
RC10L
Raider

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys!

I'm getting three graphite rc10l's from a trade i made and i am so excited, i'm planing on making 1 a dragster and the others for street, i can't wait!

how fast are they on stock motors?

:D :D !

[rocknbil]

Since I moved out in the country I hadda sell my 10L but now have a new prob, my bro-in-law races NASCAR oval in LV (he has a three-car team) so I picked up some old 10L's to build him some scale working models of his rides. Outside of searching eBay daily, where do you find the rarest of parts for the old 10L? Specifically I'm looking for an upper chassis brace, ASSOC. PN # 8200 or 8201. Any help? Thx

[Kurth]

I have an ooooooooold wide 10L i got off ebay last month. I've done some testting with it with 6 cells and a old beat green stock motor. (i last used the motor almost 6 years ago ....) the car is crazy fast, butI'm having serios problems controlling it in a parking lot .. the only place around me to run it. I used to run carpet oval with a narrow 10LSS years ago when we still had the track. Any way, Tower has the bolink rubber wheels and tires they say fit "all pan cars" and these wheels are mentioned on the Associated site. they are item number LX8757 at tower and bolink part number BL3207A. I'd love some feed back before I spend $40 :)

[aspiringrcracer710]

What do you guys think about the idea of having bodies like the Corvette C5R, the Saleen S7, the old Mercedes CLK-GTR, the Porsche 911 GT1, and various other GT style Super touring bodies being outfitted to 1/10 pan cars as opposed to the older GTP style that is probably better suited for 1/12 scale; Would that allow 1/10 pancars to make a comeback?

[NEED4SPEED27]

Hi everyone! I'm planning on buying an RC10L3 Sport (I'm on a cheeeeap budget). I planning on building a 12cell dragster with it for an engineering fair at my high school. I'm using 2 3000mAh Ni-MH stick packs, a Tekin speedstar ESC, Jr XR2 AM tx and rx, and a 12 turn speed Gems motor. I'm hoping for this car to go 60+mph. After I do my demonstration, I hope to convert it into a 1/10 on-road racer. I could use a little help though with some tips since i've never done this before and this is my first kit.

NEED4SPEED27

[MarkA]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Since I moved out in the country I hadda sell my 10L but now have a new prob, my bro-in-law races NASCAR oval in LV (he has a three-car team) so I picked up some old 10L's to build him some scale working models of his rides. Outside of searching eBay daily, where do you find the rarest of parts for the old 10L? Specifically I'm looking for an upper chassis brace, ASSOC. PN # 8200 or 8201. Any help? Thx

Have you tried Assoc. themselves? They have a building full of the old stuff and they’ll sell that directly to you.

[MarkA]

Originally posted by NEED4SPEED27
Hi everyone! I'm planning on buying an RC10L3 Sport (I'm on a cheeeeap budget). I planning on building a 12cell dragster with it for an engineering fair at my high school. I'm using 2 3000mAh Ni-MH stick packs, a Tekin speedstar ESC, Jr XR2 AM tx and rx, and a 12 turn speed Gems motor. I'm hoping for this car to go 60+mph. After I do my demonstration, I hope to convert it into a 1/10 on-road racer. I could use a little help though with some tips since i've never done this before and this is my first kit.

NEED4SPEED27


Need4Speed – Get stiffer front springs and a stiffer spring/oil for the center shock on the rear to help support the extra weight of the 12-cells. Other than that, build it according to the instructions and you should be fine.

[NEED4SPEED27]

Thanks for the help. IF I use 2400 mah packs instead of the 3000s, to achieve a higher top speed would I have to use a lover wind motor?

[NEED4SPEED27]

Found a RC10L for cheap bucks. I hope I get it :)

[NEED4SPEED27]

To my last questoin: what if I use 2000 or 1800 packs? Will I still go 60+? (NOte: I;m on a very tight budget!!!)

[MarkA]

2000’s should work well given that they’re lighter than 2400’s or 3000’s anyway. Your top speed goal should still be easily reachable.

Don’t know about 1800’s though. I think that those are just a cheapo cr@p type of cell. Being a racer only myself, I’ve never used them.

[NEED4SPEED27]

MarkA: thanks for the help. I'm on a tight budget. I'm trying to keep the cost under 300 with out speed sacrafice. Thanks again.
:D

[hpijoepro2]

could u update the steering for the 10L by using the 10L2, OR 10L3'S steering, cus i broke the one of the arms and i need something to replace it

[NEED4SPEED27]

hpijoepro2: Where in Jersey are you from? I'm from mahwah in bergen county. Do you know any good on road or off road tracks in the area?

[djm914-6]

I really think that pan cars are dead. Touring cars are too fast and look too cool plus they don't require as smooth of a surface to run well. That said, I think I'll invest a $100 or so into rebuilding my 10L soon. Over the years, it's been stripped of all it's neccessities to help my nephews develope their vehicles. One nephew just bought a Bolink pan, so I'll give him a little compitition. I figure a stock bolink vs a 10L with a 2w10t motor and 2700 bats should be fun.:D

Here's mine

[MarkA]

Originally posted by hpijoepro2
could u update the steering for the 10L by using the 10L2, OR 10L3'S steering, cus i broke the one of the arms and i need something to replace it

Yes you can but you'd need to but the whole, "new" front end: http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/21/79.htm?815 . Or, if you can find out the part # of what you need, AE has most of the "old" stuff still available for your LHS to order.

[MarkA]

Originally posted by djm914-6
I really think that pan cars are dead. Touring cars are too fast and look too cool plus they don't require as smooth of a surface to run well.

You’re right about the smooth surface but wrong about touring cars being “too fast”.

When raced in organized competition, a Pan Car with a stock motor will run nearly as fast as a mod sedan. Every Saturday at SoCal Raceway, a bunch of us “amateurs” run stock-motored 1/10th GTP Pan Cars to within a few tenths of what Kinwald, Baker, Tossolini, etc. do in “Pro” mod. Sedan. When we ran Mod. Pan Car at the 2001 NORRCA OnRoad Nationals in Las Vegas, we were the fastest class there, period.

[djm914-6]

Ok, this thread doesn't move too well, Huh?

What motor would y'all reccomend for some blistering parking lot/ road speed? Any suggestions for batteries too? Tires?

I was thinking of a 10t double with 2700mah batteries and a LRP Pro ESC. I would like to find some new mounted foams that are hard enough for pavement and some wheels that look like wheel, not the funky stock rims.

I've been out of the hobby too long and don't recognise many of the new players.

TIA,
Dave

[MarkA]

Originally posted by djm914-6
Ok, this thread doesn't move too well, Huh?



If you want a forum that’s a bit more active for these type of cars in general, go to www.rctech.net, then click on “message forums”, then, “Oval, Larger Scales, and More” and then you’ll see a nearly 2000 post long 1/10th Pan Car forum. I only swing by here once or twice and week but myself and many others are over there daily.

As for the rest of your questions a 10x2 will be blazing fast on just about any battery. In fact, your greatest limiting factor will how much traction you can get. What kind of surface are you planning on running it on?

[djm914-6]

I will be running on "better" parking lots and streets. I've seen pink, green, etc tire compounds, but have forgotten what the colors mean. I don't need a super sticky tire and would rather trade some traction for longer wear. I think I've decided to stay above a 13 turn motor and maybe a triple to help with easing on the power.

Any reason not to go with 3000mah cells, maybe 7 of them?

Dave

[MarkA]

Go here http://www.teamtrinity.com/tires/trc.asp for a listing of what tire compounds are out there these days. I think Pinks sound like they should fit the bill for you.

A triple or a quad would be right on for easing the punch of the motor and helping you to get going smoother. However, running 7-cells dramatically increases comm. and brush wear. IMO, you’d be about the same speed and better off in the long run with 6-cells on a 10-turn than 7 on a 13.

[djm914-6]

That 10L I posted earlier is now for sale. I'll give y'll (and my Porsche friends) first crack at it before it goes on evilbay.

It is a stock Carbon Fiber RC10L. I have two sets of body mounts, new rear tires and a few bodies (Porsche 930, unpainted Monty Carlo, Lumina). I may have a Futaba Magnum Sport radio too.

Make me an offer. djm914-6@attbi.com

Dave

[aspiringrcracer710]

what generation is it, L, or L2?

[djm914-6]

Hmmm...
Being that this was the latest/ greatest thing on the market when I bought it, I'd have to say it is an... L?? I'll try to get some pics of it when I get a few minutes.

I will say that aside from a bit of dust, it looks really good. I've only run the car on pavement a few times, mostly on a carpeted oval.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Originally posted by djm914-6
That 10L I posted earlier is now for sale. I'll give y'll (and my Porsche friends) first crack at it before it goes on evilbay.

It is a stock Carbon Fiber RC10L. I have two sets of body mounts, new rear tires and a few bodies (Porsche 930, unpainted Monty Carlo, Lumina). I may have a Futaba Magnum Sport radio too.

Make me an offer. djm914-6@attbi.com

Dave

I'll start the bidding at 50 bux!

[Laxman]

Where can I find a body for an old wide 10L? I got mine off ebay and the body is beat to hell even though the chassis looks practically new. Thanks

[MarkA]

Originally posted by Laxman
Where can I find a body for an old wide 10L? I got mine off ebay and the body is beat to hell even though the chassis looks practically new. Thanks

What kind of body style do you want?

If you want a GTP style, you can get the Protoform Peugeot from https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PFM1407L or the Hot Bodies Toyota from http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK897&P=7 (it says that one’s for narrow cars but that’s a typo, it’s really a wide body).

If want a NASCAR style body, check Bolink’s listing at http://www.bolink.com/bodies1.html#wide

[murphy3688]

anybody trying to sell a roller or even cheap rtr? anything will do, its just gotta work. email me if you got something to sell with a pic, im trying to get into oval racing. thanks!

-murphy

[aspiringrcracer710]

If you look hard enough, you might also find some old Protoform Nissan P35s and even some of AE's old Pro10 bodies

[wiseman]

I have one, but begining to getting tired of oval racing, would like to sell it

[aspiringrcracer710]

Man enough guys have posted in this thread at least once to fill a class at the ROAR Nats. YOu notice that MarkA?

[jasonrcfreak]

Just snagged a 10L3 graphite off ebay. I race 1/8 scale buggies but the weather has been too crappy for that. So I decided to get something I can run inside. Local track is starting a NASCAR series next week using handout stock motors to try to level the playing field. We'll be running 4 cells. I'll be running a Bolink Grand Prix body. Sounds like fun! :D

[rumur]

I just ordered a 10L3 today to run nascar class ,,I was given a Street Spec but want a car thats more adjustible so iLL give Gary back the SS ... Cant wait....

[highroller]

The 10L was and still can be a good race car,just that as Associated introduced other versions it made tuning and driving them easier.
I own all versions of the L series including the L4 some of the kits were built using Composite Craft chassis, one 10L was built using a 6x6 battery setup. As for speed is concerned 1/12th is the fastest with 1/10th pan cars being second, Touring Car (I own a TC3 Team) would be after 1/10th offroad buggy.
On a 783 ft asphalt track in 6 cell mod we were running average lap speed of 59 - 64 mph wiith speeds approaching 88mph on the straights see www.collectracing.com. Click on the Route 106 Racepark link and take a look at some of the oval pictures.
10Ls (3) 10LSS (4), 10L2 (1) 10L30 (2) 10L3a (ajustable battery chassis) (1) 10L4 (1)

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I just picked up a 10L this morning dirt cheap for $10. I bought it off a friend and I am interested in the mentioned upgrades. It currently has the lesser yellow fiberglass chassis, does Associated still stock the carbon fiber chassis?

I'm also looking for an online manual. The links hosted by Associated seem to be down. Anyone have a link? Or at least something with part numbers?

The Dynamic Front end, what exactly does this do? How does it improve handling?

Thanks.

[4starcstms]

I am sure that somebody here has a 10L4. I picked mine up last night and am about halfway thru assembling it and Ive come upon a problem. The motor bulkhead, pn 4537B, only has two mounting holes on the bottom, yet the directions a few steps further, shows it having four holes, two on top, two on bottom. Did I get a half finished part or am I totally blonde and missing something?

[highroller]

Both side plates have holes in the top and bottom for attaching to the top and bottom graphite plates. There are 4 holes in the bottom of the t-plate and bottom motor pod plate for setting up either using the offset or non offset hub setup.
Hope this helps clear up the confusion, not many people are posting to this thread so I don't check it much.
The front arm setting may be confusing but instructions in back or manual should clear be clear in placement of spaces and which hole to mount. Start with upper outer, less sensitive and less agressive move to inner or down to the middle hole. Lower holes may may rear loose if you use the lower holes. Mounting spacer left side 1 front, 1 rear, right side both mounted to front worked good on a banked track. This setup makes turn in and exit speed more smoother without scrubbing speed.

[illbreakit]

I'm a proud 10 L owner L3 to be exact. I used to frequent these boards every day, but have taken a year's hiatus, now I am back on track I feel. Going to get back into carpet this winter :D
My GT's on the right

Happy to be aboard

[Rex2342]

FINALLY!!!! Ive been searching for quite some time for guys that know about the cars!!!Anyway I'm new to the board here and posted in the electrics forum before I found this thread. Here is a link to my question I hope someone can help!
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143655


I'm kinda new to electrics but i've been researching and doing my homework on them for a while now.I mainly run nitro but i'm really liking the simplicity and quietness of electrics.It's much simpler to run and keep running than a Nitro.

[wiseman]

Getting tired of parking lot flat track racing selling 10L3 for 80.00 have extra bodies and a spare set of tires, plus frt
email wiseman87@msn.com for pics

[Longarm500]

.....RC10LSS have separate forum??? Also.....will a 190mm body fit on a 10LSS????? :confused:

[scottericsonon]

does anybody know what a "super 10ls " is??
this thing any good???

it was included in a trade deal and the guy im getting it from knows nothing about it

i havent got it yet so i cant even post pics

HELP!!!! lol

thanx scott

[microrcdude]

:confused: ive never heard of it. what does it look like???

[Longarm500]

Originally posted by scottericsonon
does anybody know what a "super 10ls " is??
this thing any good???

it was included in a trade deal and the guy im getting it from knows nothing about it

i havent got it yet so i cant even post pics

HELP!!!! lol

thanx scott

....RC10LSS. It is narrower than the 10L and actually closer to true scale. :cool:

[Longarm500]

Originally posted by Longarm500
....RC10LSS. It is narrower than the 10L and actually closer to true scale. :cool:

....the 10LSS runs very well but is a little skittery in the corner (could've been my tire set ups)....originally made for high bank ovals. I used mine for touring and LeMans style driving instead of left or right turn only.......:cool:

[scottericsonon]

yup

i did a little investigating and it is a "super speedway"

so it DOES make a decent <parking lot> T/C?????

im not going to race with it <NTC3 for that>im just planning on terrorizing a few local parking lots with it


im either going to do that with it OR put a 9 turn in it move all the electronics to the rear and make a wheelie/hot rod/pro-stock type of car out of it...

also what bodies fit this monster???

regular 190mm T/C bodies fit ok??

scott

[Longarm500]

Originally posted by scottericsonon
yup

i did a little investigating and it is a "super speedway"

so it DOES make a decent <parking lot> T/C?????

im not going to race with it <NTC3 for that>im just planning on terrorizing a few local parking lots with it


im either going to do that with it OR put a 9 turn in it move all the electronics to the rear and make a wheelie/hot rod/pro-stock type of car out of it...

also what bodies fit this monster???

regular 190mm T/C bodies fit ok??

scott

....I am not sure what type bodies will fit anymore. I am myself looking to get one because my old one is trashed but I am unsure of the size and how they measure it now. I haven't been in to R/C in over 8 years and everything has changed. I used to run a 12X4 Trinity in it and it screamed though (using Panasonic P-170's)!!!! :D Run times were short though!!!! :D :D

As far as setup ran I just balanced it evenly out and don't see why it cannot be used as a tourer...(we never had a Superspeedway in Germany!!!):rolleyes:

If you find out that a 190 will fit drop me a PM!!! :cool:

[oldskoolrc]

Just thought I'd let you guys know I have an RC10L for sale in the classified section. Make me an offer!

- Chad

[Taz_S]

SO what up with everone.

[OldRC10LGuy]

Hey guys,

I just stumbled across this forum, I used to race an RC10L about 11 years ago in the modifieds. It started life as a graphite RC10L then I added the adjustable castor/camber front end, along with that brace that used to stiffen up that post at the rear (yeah it's been a long time)!!! I think it was then up to RC10LS spec (came out after mine)

Take note people who still race these things and can't get them to handle, I wish someone pulled me aside when I had mine to tell me these things!!

There were two things to get this car to really handle and it took me ages to work out!! When I did, it was a friggin beast and I won a lot of races against much more experienced guys with much better cars!

1. True the tires right down, I mean to like 4mm, they'll barely last a race meeting tho! (this makes a massive difference) I tried this after seeing a Team Associated guy run his at my track, I'm not joking his would have been 2 or 3 mm! changed after ever race I think!

2. Run hard as hell (I think it was 'black' compound) on the front and soft on the back (yellow or pink).

Apart from that run the suspension stiff and gradially lighten it up to suit your needs. Cause I was only 16 at the time, I was always trying out new tyres, shocks etc and wasted a lot of time and money, should have just stuck to what I just told you!

The RC10L really needed to be set up to understeer, well that's what I found anyway.

Man I miss those days, so much fun, I think 10th scale onroad has pretty much dried up in Australia now :confused:

anyway have fun guys!!! I'll also dig out some pics of my old ride.

love to hear more about people still racing them!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey 10L owners,

I just started a forum for a new race Im working on called the US Pan Car Championships. There are individual section for the RC10L series cars. You can find the forum at www.uspancarchamps.com/forums. You are more than welcome to check it out and sign up if you like what you see


BJ Williams

[Taz_S]

Here is the list of us that are going to the nat to race the funnies class.

1. Anton Mark
2. Ashby Steve
3. Stiles Tim
4. Strasnick Mark
5. Strasnick Barry
6. Davies Tom
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15

42 days left we need to get the 9 more. The thing is we only “at this time” 1 car behind the only class that has 7 cars. That is the TC stock.

I know of 2 more that are signing up but I do not want to take the chance. It would be nice to get the biggest class at the nat’s.

For the Nor Cal guys I start a yahoo group to help with planning of road trip for us to get everyone to show up at one time to get the car count. This will show how the class use to be and how it can be.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pro10pro12/

http://www.rc-cars.com/enats/2004%2...rm%204-7-04.pdf

[BigAaron]

I am restoring a rc10l I bought somewhere around 1989, the fiberglass chassis is almost worn through from running on the street. I am looking for a carbon fiber replacement that doesn't cost big bucks. Where can I get one? I found some cool parts in a local hobby shop $.99 "bargain basket", got a new bumper, t-plate, and carbon rear lower pod brace. Anyone wanna trade a 10l main chassis for 80% of a 12l? It has a carbon fiber chassis and complete rear pod. It needs front suspension and a rear axle. It is a little worn but not bad. I can send pics if you wanna trade.

[Taz_S]

here is the flyer again For the US pan car chap's

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1028166

[aspiringrcracer710]

I got me a RC10L! I bought it from a guy in TX. Im hoping to give it a shakedown run in the next few weeks and hopefully have pics of it not too long after

[geo1]

Just bought an older LSS for my first r/c car (sounds funny with me being 38 yrs old). Anyhow , I just bought the updated front suspension and now have a few questions for everyone. 1)Where can I find some info about starting points for caster, camber, ect? 2)Is there a way to upgrade the rear end? 3)Does anyone make a jig for setting the front end? Any replies would be helpful

[highroller]

Most racers who had 10Lss, now use the 10L3, 10L4 or some type of aftermarket made chassis.
Some items that were used to enhance or added more tuning to 10LSS.
Wolfe Racing: Long front kingpin and front spring assortment - gave front more tuning with spring variety.
Raceway Mfg- aluminum pod plates, servo mount, shock mount (diff heights), adjustable frontbrace. aluminium parts added strength to some of the parts that tended to flex and upset chassis handling. They also sell the Grip Master for adjusting tweak - you are able to adjust tweak more precisely and it stay set unlike using the standard tweak screw setup.
Irrgang Racing - diff axles, hubs - now have shocks, t bar, aluminum pod plates, spring steel t bar (rear steer, non adjustable), updated front end mostly for the L3 and L4 series but could be adapted to LSS. Parts add tuning, consistancy and in some cases a more stable plateform.
Other companies that sold parts JPH Racing (chassis), ADX (chassis plates now out of business), Race Tech sold adjustable camber mounts, alignment tools (one to measure caster and camber), motor timing guage and had their own oval chassis kit, Niftech Racing sells parts for the L series, along with tools, RPM made a camber tool device, Hole Shot Racing - made an front end alignment tool (think they are out of buisness). Hammond Gruhmann - make aluminum and titanium parts - suspensions arms, pod plates. There are many other companies that sell parts for the 10L series of cars to mention them all - in many cases you could a complete car from aftermarket sources and not use one Associated part.

It depends on your expectations, finances you are willing to invest into it or what level you may want to compete. The 10LSS could be upgrade to the L3 or L4 with a chassis, pod plates, side shocks, top & bottom plates, t-bar. In the end if you wanted a car with more tuning ability or be better handling it would be cheaper to purchase the 10L4 or buy the upgrades as your finances allow. The 10LSS could still give you some exposure and experience just the same if your intentions are to race on a club level.

[fly442]

just bought a old rc10 LSO. what is the difference froum a rc10 L. thanks

[highroller]

The 10L is wider and battery slots were configured dfferently.
Associated also used different names with changes that were made.
10L were wide chassis using the old style frontend from the 12i series
10LSS used a narrower chassis early versions used the old style front end, with the new front end the designation was changed 10L was called the 10LS (for suspension) the 10LSS was called the 10LSO or 10LSSO (speedway suspenion oval).

[aspiringrcracer710]

I am restoring a rc10l I bought somewhere around 1989, the fiberglass chassis is almost worn through from running on the street. I am looking for a carbon fiber replacement that doesn't cost big bucks. Where can I get one? I found some cool parts in a local hobby shop $.99 "bargain basket", got a new bumper, t-plate, and carbon rear lower pod brace. Anyone wanna trade a 10l main chassis for 80% of a 12l? It has a carbon fiber chassis and complete rear pod. It needs front suspension and a rear axle. It is a little worn but not bad. I can send pics if you wanna trade.

You could order direct from Associated. Im pretty sure that the 10L road cars can share chassis. (Someone correct me if Im wrong on that) Ask AE though. They ma have some carbon fiber or graphite main chassis for the 10L line of cars. Just my thought though

[pgster34]

is any body lookin for a RC10 L2 or L3 i am selling both rolling chassis ????
redding262@aol.com

[highroller]

The 10L chassis, upper and lower plate (aluminum) were wider than the 10LSS but basically all the other parts are the same. Some LSH those that were into oval or onroad pan cars may still have a number of parts on hand, even some of the aftermarket items. One track I race at still have a few of the Composite Craft chassis for the SS version. Niftech, CRC, GPM, Hammond Ghumman (spelling), Raceway MFG are some that made the motor and left side pod plates and other items that still may be available locally or directly. Associated discontinued making parts for the 10Lseries cars when they introduced the L2 then L3 now the L4O.

For the gear problem most use 64 pitch gears, for the problem encountered with using a taller gear (big spur and pinion) the Kimbough axle spacer provides a little room but most went to the extended pod (motor and left side plates) plates that increased the distance and wheelbase by 1/4 inch.

[nitrochubb]

Here's a link if you want to learn more about this car.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=197237

[microrcdude]

ive never seen a side veiw the same height as the car. That car looks real sweet.

[aspiringrcracer710]

did you run that body unpainted or did you paint it first?

[nitrochubb]

I ran it unpainted first, then i painted it. It came out like crap! Not happy :mad:

[racerrandy]

Its nice to see someone do something cool and share it with the rest of us.
Very cool, keep the updates coming.

Later,Randy

[Longarm]

Here is my RC10LSS. I just acquired these aluminum rims off of e-bay for that finishing look.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v625/Longarm500/RC%20Car%20Photos/PA250020.jpg :cool:

[tallyrc]

how wide is that 10lss, and how wide is that body?

[Longarm]

how wide is that 10lss, and how wide is that body?
The body is 190mm as is the car.....

...I think. :huh:

[tallyrc]

very cool, do the rears rub the body or do you raise it when you run it?

[Longarm]

very cool, do the rears rub the body or do you raise it when you run it?

Rears do not rub however there is minor clearance issues up front. Just needs a little trimming. It is now more for show than go although it has everything in it.

I just got another full RTR RC10T and am installing a good radio in it for running in the dirt. There is a nice patch of land in front of my subdivision just waiting for me to build a track on.... :D

[Longarm]

I may however run the 10LSS on occasion. ;)

[tallyrc]

our club is starting up a pan car class. we now have 4 of them.. so i'm stoked.. the TC's are getting expensive...

[MisterBurns]

There's also talk of our club running pan cars with the 12th scalers which would be sweet. I'd love to find a 10l3t but it's harder than it seems. Oh well. worst case scenario I'll get a wide pan car but I heard you can't fit the new batteries in them. Anyone know if this is true?

[tallyrc]

10l3t's are hard to find, but pantoura's are available new ($160)and had i to do it over again, i'd have gotten a pantoura or the new darskide car (~$250)which can be 190mm or 235mm, and hold new batteries and uses standard side-by-side packs like my xray tourer... yes the 10l needs to be ground a bit to get the new batts in i think...

[tallyrc]

10l3t's are hard to find, but pantoura's are available new ($160)and had i to do it over again, i'd have gotten a pantoura or the new darskide car (~$250)which can be 190mm or 235mm, and hold new batteries and uses standard side-by-side packs like my xray tourer... yes the 10l needs to be ground a bit to get the new batts in i think... but frankly the old batss still work fine since they are so light.. i run my absolutely owrst batter in my 10l3t with a stock motor, and with a bit more setup, my times will approach my tourers times with a mod brushless...

[MisterBurns]

The price of the Pantoura seems to have gone up by $30. Last week it was $159, this week it's $189. I don't like how they've done that although I'm still thinking abotu getting one. I really waiting for the MLP car before I commit to a new pan car which is why I'd just like to pick up a 10L3t to keep me going until then. The darkside car also looks to be a weapon aswell so I might waitr for it too.

[tallyrc]

is mlp making a pan car or a 2wd F1?

[MisterBurns]

They're making a 190mm pan car and a 235mm belt drive pan type car but with full suspension front and rear like their F1 car so it's still low enough to it GTP/LMP type bodies.

[TEM]

The price of the Pantoura seems to have gone up by $30. Last week it was $159, this week it's $189. I don't like how they've done that although I'm still thinking abotu getting one. I really waiting for the MLP car before I commit to a new pan car which is why I'd just like to pick up a 10L3t to keep me going until then. The darkside car also looks to be a weapon aswell so I might waitr for it too.

I think CRC might have done that cause there seems to be some demand for these things now! (rctech has a pantoura thread thats growing!). These cars have the same parts count as oval pan cars and look how expensive those were when oval was popular!!!

[tallyrc]

we've been chatting up pan cars a lot lately... that pancar thread is fun. especially the videos...

[MisterBurns]

YEha, I've been reading the pantoura, brushless, lipo thread on RCtech. I don't think I've posted in it as I don't have a pan car at the moment although I think I found me a L3T once I get bck home.

[TEM]

we've been chatting up pan cars a lot lately... that pancar thread is fun. especially the videos...

Do you have any video links handy? I've seen a couple but they are more like bash videos where they are testing pancars or pan car vs. nitro. I want to see some decent quality racing ones...

[tallyrc]

those are the only vids i know of other than 12th scale, i'll shoot our class when i get back from vacation. gonna take in a couple college football games the next two weeks...

[TEM]

those are the only vids i know of other than 12th scale, i'll shoot our class when i get back from vacation. gonna take in a couple college football games the next two weeks...

I'll settle for some good 12th scale action too!.. There are so many good races going on but no one seems to want to record them and share! 99% of the videos you see online are offroad bash videos, mainly people beating on their nitro monster trucks.. it's SAD!

[tallyrc]

google ray woods, he has sample videos for free download.. several of them are 12th scale...

[tallyrc]

where did everyone go?

[N3wGuy]

I should be getting a RC10L today :D (It would have been yesterday if not for the snow we got in VA)

[N3wGuy]

Hurray I got my RC10L and um it seems like it uses a 32 pitch spur is it me or has my brain gonna :wave:

[tallyrc]

Hurray I got my RC10L and um it seems like it uses a 32 pitch spur is it me or has my brain gonna :wave:

if it's an original 10l, it's likely that it does indeed have a 32 pitch gear in it.. switch to 48.. congrats by the way. it has been so much fun owning mine that it has sort of refreshed me back into the hobby..

[highroller]

The kits still come with a 81 tooth 48 pitch gear, always has.
Most ditch that for 64 pitch gears, size depending on what you plan to use it for - stock generally 110 to 118, mod 120-128. Problem with the stock 10Ls pod plates is the limited space. Most guys have gone to using either the Kimbrough axles adaptors or aftermarket pod plates that extends the axles 1/8 to 1/4 inch back. There are five variants of the 10L, the original 10L was wide, the 10L Super Speedway (narrow chassis) then later versions with the dynamic strut suspension, 10L2, 10L3, 10L4O (which still comes with a 81 tooth spur even with all the other upgrades).

[N3wGuy]

I actually have a RC10LSS hehehe :o . Is the right hub suppose to stick out more then the left on the RC10LSS. Or do i have the wrong hub for my right side. This the car I have--v
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Restored-RC10L-RC10LSS-Super-Speedway-roller_W0QQitemZ300077353669QQihZ020QQcategoryZ440 17QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[tallyrc]

is it symetrical? the 10lss should be almost exactly 190 or 200mm wide at the rear i think.. but the wheels should stick out past the chassis equally on both sides.. further up in this thread is a 10lss under a BMW body..

[N3wGuy]

Well the chassis is symmetrical the distance the wheels and tires stick out past the chassis are not. Well I guess I need the proper right hub then :(

[tallyrc]

sounds like it..

[Dallas Racer]

<--------10L4O owner. ;)

[tallyrc]

atleast it's a pancar, but ours go right also.. :D mine at this very moment has an indy car body on it...

[Taz_S]

you have a indy body on it hehe. No joke we use to run 500 laps races back in the day. May it was indy car and sep it was nascar.

[tallyrc]

now i have gotten a wide conversion chassis and pod for it from powell racing components to make it 235mm wide but with a 3 shock setup on it.. my indy body still fits if i get to race it like that again.

http://webpages.charter.net/idothtre/DSCF4121.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/idothtre/DSCF4145.jpg

[danznrn]

I recently got 2 pan cars that I'm currently rehabbing. I had posted in the pan car forum cause I didn't know what I had, but I thinkn it's a RC10L also. I post here once I get it going again.

LCDR(s) Dan

[tallyrc]

yea i saw your post, but don't know either.. the one is clearly a 10l of some sort, but the other i don't know.. 10lso is my best guess..

[highroller]

The right side hub is the diff hub, it's wider than the left side hubs. The right side (diff) hubs come in two widths Wide (used on offset pods) mainly used on flat tracks, SS or narrow hub (used mainly in nonset on banked tracks). The left side hubs are also made in three configurations 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4 spacing.

danznm, I replied to your post about the two chassis, the top one is confusing - could be 1 or 3 possible chassis that aren't available now Racetech, Woods Racing or Superior Racing Products the giveaway is the two braces that were a floating pod arrangement instead of the normal tplate/tweak screw setup looks like someone adapted the three shock arrangement to chassis - plus shock mount is missing . The second is a conversion chassis made by Composite Craft, the one you have was called the Angle X, they made about 4 different chassis configurations for the 10L pan car.

[zachhotwheel]

Thank you for any assistance offered...I would like to know if there are rear wheels available that will not require the left side to be cut down so it'll miss the lower pod.

Again, thanks-I appreciate the comments and quality of the work displayed here.

[highroller]

That is inherant problem with the L series of cars. To clear the rear pod plate use an axle spacer or purchase the BRP axle shims, in a pinch an old 1/4 d.o bearing will work. For ideal handling the right rear wheel should be inline with the right front, the left rear is inward by 1/8 inch in relation to left front for flat tracks but spaced out and even with left front for banked tracks.
For those intending to race, use the offset pod arrangement for flat surfaces and non offset (requires the shorted diff hub) for banked tracks.
If you want to get very competitive purchase the Sliva X factor battery tray and bracket. This addition allows you get all the weight on left side of chassis (esc, battery, receiver, receiver pack if used) allowing car to turn and exit turns smoother.