Trinity Reflex NT

[maxxxracer]

Well, we have all been waiting for it. Ask your questions and hopefully any of the mods or chris smith will anwser them.

POST AWAY!

[Chris Smith]

Let's get the questions coming. The car will be in the hobby shops in a couple weeks.

Chris

[maxxxracer]

Well I was going to have my parents get one for me for christmas, but it wont be out. Looks like I am just going to have to buy it myself. I cant wait to get it!

[Chris Smith]

ALL: The Reflex NT shipped to the distributors today, they should be in the hobby shops next week.

Chris

[maxxxracer]

my order will go out in a few days

[maxxxracer]

UPDATE: I emailed horizon and they have the Reflex's but they are not in the system yet. They will be going out to hobby shops in a few days.

[maxxxracer]

UPDATE: The Reflex is now in stock at Tower hobbies.

I already placed my order.

[maxxxracer]

Well this car is a pain in the ***** to build. My fingers are almost broken and have broken and lost a few pieces. I almos even wasted the 2 speed by putting too much thread lock on and putting the large alluminum nut on bawkwards.

Hey Chris. Whats with the numbering of the baggies and no corresponding numbers in the instructions. Thats kinda messed up. The instructions are a little crude, but for an experienced builder there should be no problems. BTW, I like your setup sheet, even in your own handwriting :p

Oh, Chris, how did you get the ball studs in the ball cariers. i had to use a vice to carefully push the ball in. This was after some trial and error and a smashed ball and torched cup.

Well back to the search for the missing cross pin :confused: :(

[maxxxracer]

UPDATE: well, I am missing some parts (that i lost or broke) and need the side exhaust header to get it going, but besides for those parts I am almost done with the car.

It is alot more challenging than I thought it would be, but thats ok, i dont mind it taking a long time, just as long as i get it done right.

[Chris Smith]

maxxxracer: I think the cross pin you are talking about is for the wheel hex. You can get the pins for the VoneR, they will work fine. I haven't built a full production car out of the box yet, but I understand what you're saying about the bag numbering and the instructions. We will update with the next kits. I have built front and rear hub carriers and didn't have a problem fitting the pillow balls. I'll try it again, but the have fit for me. For next time, you don't need to use locktite on the 2 speed, just tighten the nuts up against the gears they will stay on.


Chris

[maxxxracer]

no, not the PB's the ball studs. They are impossible to get into the cups.

[Chris Smith]

maxxxracer: My bad, I completely missed what you said. I use a pair of pliers to squeeze the ball cup onto the ball. They are definitely tight, I haven't had one come off yet. You can use RPM cups if you buggered one up. They fit also.

Chris

[maxxxracer]

Ahh, thats ok. I am ordering some stuff from Trinity tommorw. None of the shops have it in stock so I need to order from them.


Oh, chris, tell the tech guys at trinity to inlcude instructions for side exaust and rotary carb motors. Also inlude the linkages. I am having to build my own. :(

[Chris Smith]

maxxxracer: I'll look into the rotary carb linkages.

Pix are on HPI

Chris

[maxxxracer]

Chris: No need. I got some linkage rod and made it myself. I will have pics of how I did it up early next month. It seems to work well, but only time will tell.

I got the side exhaust header today. Its amazinly designed. Any slight change and it will break a belt, melt some plastic and not even work.

I do have one question thought, how do I mount the darn thing. I cannot find a single place to tie it down. I am afraid when i run it, the pipe will fall off. I will see what happens tommorow.

[Chris Smith]

maxxxracer: I think you're talking about how to mount the pipe to the car, you can drill a hole into the top plate and attach a wire there, or usa an Associated pipe mount, mounted to the top plate.

Chris

[maxxxracer]

Thanks for the info. I will try that.

[nitrothugg]

can i put a pull start engine in this car? need to know before i buy it.

[Chris Smith]

nitrothugg: No, you can only use a non pulstart motor. It's worth investing in a starter box for the Reflex, It's a great car.

Chris

[Enrique.v]

Hi Chris, Is the Set up that came in the Kit the same set up you run at Crystal Park?

On the lower arms I cant use the A location because the ride hight is like 5 mm more than its supposed to be.

[Chris Smith]

Enrique.v: that's the setup I used at Crystal Park, I did change the lower spring cups, I used the long cup on the front and the short one on the back, this should fix your ride height problem.

Chris

[Cosmo]

Short cups? All of the ones I got in my kit were the same length. I thought about cutting some, but I haven't yet. What length are the short ones?

[HauntedMyst]

Lord knows I hate Trinity but they seem to have done a first rate job on this car with every thing right down the middle and all the first rate parts. Why didn't they keep the red anodizing? It looked cool and was a nice differentiator.

[maxxxracer]

HM, it was supposedely never supposed to be red, it was just that way to make the pics look better. Personally i think that they were gonna do it but they found out how many peeps dont like the red (me) and it might have driven the cost up further than they wanted.

[HauntedMyst]

Maxx,
I think its frustrating when companies make the press/proto type look intentionally different then the production version. While hand cut pieces will always look different then the molded parts, anodizing the prototype and not production just seems misleading to me. If I were going to buy one, I'd want the read.

White,
I don't think it's a copy of the V-One-R. All these things look very much alike, the Trinity NT just seems to go the extra mile to refine things where as Kyosho is known to use cheaper parts to raise their bottom line. In other words, Trinityseems to have packed a lot of hop up value into the box, Kyosho didnt.

[wjj]

I just finish putting together this kit and notice that my engine has an sg crank and the kit doesn't have a setup for this. do i have to buy another new engine (my rb engine is new) or is there a clutch nut for engines with sg shafts?

[Enrique.v]

The SG clutch nut will be out soon.

SG Shaft Conversion: NT2513. Does not include the cone (collet).

[Chris Smith]

WhiteCat: Yes, some of the parts will fit, I haven't had to swap much the Reflex has been a tough car. I haven't really broken anything.

Chris

[engdds]

Surprised that no one talked about the RFX NT? I have got one but still in the box. I plan to put in a RB X12T 5 port , how does that sound?

[StevePond]

If anyone is wondering why posts threads have been deleted, they have no place in this section. The vehicle forums are intended to be an area where owners of like vehicles can discuss set-ups and the like. If all you want to do is whine because you don't like the company that makes the car, you're on the wrong bulletin board.

[maxxxracer]

Go steve. BTW Steve, thanks for putting my chris on TV thread in RCCA. If that was you that did that.

[StevePond]

"It was MEEEEEEEEE!!!!" - Jim Carey as he exits the elavator in Liar, Liar.


It was acutally in the Nitro Magazine, but close enough. :D

[PITSTAIN RC]

guys the reflex is a slightly modified v-one-r Almost all the parts are the same and also therefore interchangeable, incase you guys break something, which should be hard to do, but you can always use a v-one-r part if you cant get a trinity part

hope this helps

[maxxxracer]

the stock bumper in always on auto destruct. You touch a wall and it snaps. Luckily trintity just made a basher bumper. I need to pick one up.

Hey steve, how's about you send me taht TKT99E for a test drive. I got to have one. I have dillema, to get a real car or one of these babies. Decisions decisions. You are a lucky guy to be able to get one of those for free. BTW, that front anti roll bar is ingenious. And i knew it was RC nitro. I need to pay my subscription on it before u guys send me death threats.

[PJCruz]

Hey guys, just wanted to drop my head in and say HI. I just bought a Reflex NT pretty cheap.. and should have it monday. I will probably gut my HPI car (servos, MT-12, and my NEW RB x12 pipe) to put into the Reflex and sell the HPI.

Anyways, it will probably take me forever to assemeble. It will be my 4th kit (HPI Racer2, T3, Losi XXX-NT), but I have VERY LITTLE time to myself to work on it... maybe an hour here.. 1/2 hour there..etc. Anyways... I have LOVED the Reflex since hearing about it.. and now I"m going to rock!! =)

Question: I have several RPM setup gauges and the MIP Tweak Station that I used for my HPI Racer2. Will that work for the Reflex (PB suspension) or will it be pretty much better with a setup board. I can use the hell out of those gauges... do they leave anything lacking for accuracy compared to the setup boards? I think the Tweak Station will allow me to measure the width for setting the PB's too.

Anyways.. thanks.

Pete

[DookieStick]

What parts do I need to be able to mount this body on my Reflex?
Also is there a centax clutch for the reflex yet and if so how does it compare to the standard clutch?

Thanks Guys!:cool:

[vance scott]

Originally posted by Chris Smith
Let's get the questions coming. The car will be in the hobby shops in a couple weeks.
WHAT TOP END GEARS ARE AVAILABLE FOR THE REFLEX IN WHATS THE PARTS NO'S .

[PJCruz]

Nearly done building my Reflex =)

Two questions:

1. Anyone here have an MT12 in their Reflex? I have one with a threaded shaft and wonder if I need to cut the crank at all.

2. I am looking at those killer LOLA 200mm bodies and wonder which ones fit and if any mods are required (i.e. front shock tower).


Thanks

[hypertech]

Yes you will need to cut the crank some.....think I cut about a 1\4" off my threaded crank.

[PJCruz]

Should I cut it from the front of the crank or the back of the crank (the end that goes INTO the mt12). My threaded shaft unscrews out so I guess I can replace it with another one if I mess it up =) It also has an allen key on the end to screw it in or out... should I cut the back then?

Thanks
Pete

[DookieStick]

Is it true that there is no SG clutch nut yet for the Reflex? I have the new Collari TR5 and DO NOT WANT TO CUT IT!! The dam engine is almost the price of the car!!

HELP!!

[tat2spyder]

I just bought a reflex nt and i'm having some problems. I' m trying to put in a mugen seiki mt12 turbo and the clutch nut dosn't fit on the crankshaft. I cut the crankshaft to a shorter lenght but the threads dont match up. I don't have a tap and die set and i dont even know what size die i would need. is there a different clutch or anything that could help me out. I just droped all this money on a new car and engine and there just sitting there

[Race4ever]

Can anyone tell me what the gear ratio is for first, second and the diff? Need to calculate the final ratio and roll out. Thanks!

[Hyper7 Racer]

can anybody tell me where i can find setups on my reflex nt....

thanks
kenny

[hypertech]

Go here http://www.teamtrinity.com/cars/reflexNT.asp and near the bottom of the page you will see the setup sheets link.

[Hyper7 Racer]

thanks hypertech

[ozoneone]

Does anybody have leaky diffs? I've rebuilt 'em twice, but the silicone oil flies right out, leaving a streak along the inside of the body. I inspected the gasket & tightened down the screws properly. Even when the car sits on the shelf, it leaves a puddle. Everyone says to seal it with liquid gasket, but that seems so permanent.:confused:

[hypertech]

Are you using the large shims in the diff ? ie: the ones that cover the oring...

Also what weight diff oil are you using ? Mine leak slightly (during racing) with 3000-5000 but not as nasty as you describe.

I use nothing other than the gasket and oring to seal my diffs...

[Racer Rich]

Originally posted by ozoneone
Does anybody have leaky diffs? I've rebuilt 'em twice, but the silicone oil flies right out, leaving a streak along the inside of the body. I inspected the gasket & tightened down the screws properly. Even when the car sits on the shelf, it leaves a puddle. Everyone says to seal it with liquid gasket, but that seems so permanent.:confused:

I highly recommend the Permatex Ultra Blue Silicone Gasket Sealer to seal the gaskets in your diffs. After I assembled my new Kawahara Negative Diff, I sat it down in an "level position" (as if it would sit in the car) for overnight. In the morning, I would say over 60% of the 5000 weight oil leaked out of the diff. I asked for help on the forums, and I was advised to try the Permatex Ultra Blue.

So I applied a thin coat to the gasket, let it set-up for an hour, put some Permatex on the screws that fasten the diff pulley to the case (helps keep screws from coming out), and then proceeded to finish assembly of the diff. After assembly, I did not set the diff down in a level position. I rested it vertically with the gasket "pointing-up" (this way no oil with come seep into it) and let the gasket "cure" for 24 hours.

To see if this would stop leakage, I sat the completed diff (after gasket cured) in a level position for 48 hours. When I checked at 24 hours, it was bone dry. When I checked at 48 hours, it was bone dry.

This stuff works. I like you had a major problem with the diff leaking oil. Try this, and it might cure your problem.

Regards,

Rich

[coolracer15]

How do you guys like this car I'm thinking of getting one but I'm not sure

[ozoneone]

Thanks Hypertech, but the instructions I got with my kit had a sticker on the page that said not to use the diff shims, if I remember correctly. So I don't think they're in there.

Racer Rich: Are you using the Kawahara Negative Diffs made for the V-One-R in a Reflex? I was wondering if that'd work and if it did would they help? Sounds like a similiar problem either way. I guess I'd better get some Gasket Sealer (or try the shims). How do you like the Kawaharas? Front & rear? Thanks alot for your reply.

[Racer Rich]

ozoneone-

Yes, I am using the Kawahara Negative Diff for the V-OneR. They are a direct fit. You do have to "round" the tabs on the diff pulley though (the tabs that go into the diff case) because the aluminum Negative Diff case has a rounded area for the tabs to go into, so the tabs have to be rounded.

The Negative Diff is only for the Rear. It was not designed for the Front.

My diff leaked oil even with the shims. Where is your diff leaking from? Where the o-ring is or is it coming out of the gasket? My leakage was coming out of the gasket, but once I used the silicone sealer on the gasket the problem was solved.

Regards,

Rich

[DOH!]

Hi all, I've had a few problems with building the NT. First, the setscrews (p/n D2-10020) for the up-down stops are sized way too big, these same setscrews used in other areas are also too big. Gotta ream out the hole first or the parts will crack. Up-down stops, a few grams of plastic = $8. The pillow ball nuts have some rough metal flashing that binds up the action of the knucles and hub carriers. Cleaning these up makes things very smooth.
One problem I can't solve is that the rear belt seems too loose. It can actually rub on the carbon deck. Any ideas?
Also, Trinity prices, yikes, front sway bar kit - 2 aluminum up-down stops, 3 setscrews and 2 teeny tiny "bars" for $55. Too rich for my blood. :cool:

[deeman]

Originally posted by DOH!
Hi all, I've had a few problems with building the NT. First, the setscrews (p/n D2-10020) for the up-down stops are sized way too big, these same setscrews used in other areas are also too big. Gotta ream out the hole first or the parts will crack. Up-down stops, a few grams of plastic = $8. The pillow ball nuts have some rough metal flashing that binds up the action of the knucles and hub carriers. Cleaning these up makes things very smooth.
One problem I can't solve is that the rear belt seems too loose. It can actually rub on the carbon deck. Any ideas?
Also, Trinity prices, yikes, front sway bar kit - 2 aluminum up-down stops, 3 setscrews and 2 teeny tiny "bars" for $55. Too rich for my blood. :cool:

Double check the setscrews you are using. The parts bags come with many extras 9setscrews, screws, washers) of different sizes. The ones you are trying to should strip out a small (about the size of a thick hair) piece of plastic when threaded in. Remember, the holes are smaller so that when the screws are threaded, they stay very tight. I pretap my holes with usually one size (in mm) tap than the screw that I'm threading in.

Also, when doing anything that has some sort of movement, check the flashing on the parts. The pillow balls especially because you want nice smooth movement. To help them, add a little of the grease that comes in the kit to the top of the ball and the bottom of the stay. Tighten them down so that there is no freeplay in and out but the bull still can move freely (twist) in the carrier.

As for the sway bar, your right it's way tooo expensive for such little parts. But, do some shopping around. You may be able to find it at about $40 or less. By the way, it does help the handling on your car. Just keep in mind the car has to be handling pretty good already without it. Adding it will improve already good handling but it won't make bad handling good. The car will stay flatter when cornering (which means faster on power cornering) but it has to already be cornering fairly well.

Hope that helps.
D...

[loarc]

For the front swaybar I use V one R. It fit right in and got it from Ebay for $20. Made out of aluminuim. But still looking for after market rear swaybar.
Eddie

[ozoneone]

DOH!:

I had the same problem with the setscrews, and you are using the correct ones (4mm). I had to replace the entire front bulkhead due to cracking the plastic while screwing them in. I ordered the replacement parts for the up/down stop (#40230) as well but they never showed up, so I left them as is (cracked). They seem to be redundant travel limiters.

The trick I used is to drill & tap the holes, about 85% of the way, with a 4mm tap. The reason you don't tap all the way is so the screws don't vibrate loose.

As for the rear belt, grind the carbon brace where the belt is with a Dremel at a 45 degree or steeper angle, then coat the angled edge with CA. This way it will clear the belt or at least not rub against a sharp edge. Try to match the angle of the belt and maintain clearance.

[tat2spyder]

how are you guys running your fuel line. Mine keeps geting to close to my mill and it melts the fuel line. Do you guys use fuel filters or is the one in the tank ok

[micro_man]

Hey tat this is off topic but where are you in Nocal? I am in roseville by sacramento. WHere do you race? LMK

later

[TUCRACEMAN]

Hey, are any of ya'll running a side exaust engine? If so, what kind of header are you useing?
Thanks,
Dave

[loarc]

New track just open in Sacto,CA
www.rccraceway.com
Eddie

[Speedpro2]

hey i was thinking of getting one but my friend told me to get a nitro tc3. which is better to buy if i am racing in competitions

[micro_man]

YEah i went there last week. It is real nice. Very high traction and it is real tight. I was suppost to go today but couldt make it. I might go tomorrow or friday.

later

[tat2spyder]

microman i'm no way near cali i'm way out in north carolina. I wish i was that close to all the action. I'm the only one in this town with a love for r/c no one else can justify the cost

[micro_man]

Oh my bad,
I thought your location said north california instead of north carolina.:p

Man i feel dumb:D

[TUCRACEMAN]

Speedpro, both of the cars will get the job done. It's all up to you. I got both. :D
~Dave

[Speedpro2]

tucraceman i just wanna ask you which one you thought was better at handling and speed. I really wanna get a good racer for competition not a peice of plastic with 4 wheels and a engine

[PatellaDragger]

Speedpro2,

I've driven both quite a bit, voner as well. It depends on your driving skill. If you are a very good driver that rarely hits anything and are good enough to keep other drivers from hitting you then go with the NTC3. It has a few issues to work out like the tank design and diff cases, but it is very fast out of the box and very ez to setup and go fast in.

A reflex or voner is also very good box stock, and I have found them (v1r especially) to be much more durable and trouble free.

It takes more experimenting to find a good setup, and you will need more powerful engine than you need in ntc3 to get the same quickness - but any high end novarossi (MT12/RBX12) or collari will put you right there with anyone.

A dialed reflex/v1r with the right gearing is just as fast as anything out there - so it boils down to driver ability, parts availability, and personal preference.

I for one feel more confident in my V1R's because I can take chances knowing if something happens - it's unlikely anything will break. With the NTC3 - that wasn't the case, I had 3 of them at one time, sold all of them and only run V1R and yokomo GT4 now. The car I can cut the fastest most consistent laps with is a bone stock V1R with RB X12 turbo motor...I ate plenty of NTC3's for lunch with this car last weekend...actually the only car that was close to me out there in practice was a GT4R running a modified MT12. It's all about the driver and what feels the best to you - don't get caught up in the hype over which car is "better".

[PatellaDragger]

also - as a follow up, I forgot to add I've raced 2 v1r for 6 months and have yet to break ANY parts. Not a single one. I've had the shock ends pop off the studs before I went to the screw in style, and I've had one dogbone pop out and dissappear before I went to universals - but that's it.

Associated car I broke the bumper within 15 minutes first time out on the track. 2nd time out the shock towers came loose in the diff cases when I ran into the boards (minor hit). Car was fast so I kept trying to work with it, but no matter what I did my lap times were still better with the v1r's so I just sold them cause I didn't like having to lug around 2 starter boxes anyway.


Reflex I broke a bumper and the body posts once in a head-on collision with a nut driving backwards on the track. After that I put on kyosho front-end and belts and had no other problems.

[loarc]

PatellaDragger,

I new this hobbies and I would like to know your set up. I do own both V One RR and Reflex. They both are stock set-up, but the reflex seam to handle better. Thanks

[PatellaDragger]

loarc send me an email and I'll send you my current setup.

What I can tell you from memory is

kyosho orange rear, kyosho green front springs
front one-way
minimal weight rear diff (1,000 or 5,000)
no sway bars
upper lower shock mounts
I have the laydown kawahara front shock mount on the v1r so the front end is like the reflex
lower hole on inner rear camber links
2nd hole on rear shock towers
1 degree front toe out
2 degree rear toe in

caster blocks all to the rear -I will get the rest for you, just send me your email.
This setup is for a medium-traction foam setup, 120X60 foot track, very tight and technical.

[loarc]

PatellaDragger,

Thanks for the info. Here go my email ephabmixay@yahoo.com
I ran in Bay Area, which has tight track.

Eddie

[RichieRich]

Originally posted by TUCRACEMAN
Hey, are any of ya'll running a side exaust engine? If so, what kind of header are you useing?
Thanks,
Dave

Yeah, I'd like to know too. :)

[WFO]

hey guys I am getting out of the sport and just put my reflex on ebay (just search for reflex nt)
it is in exc. shape and has a almost brand new o.s 12tr ,dig servo,rb pipe,etc.
comes with starter box and hudy ultimate steup system just add transmitter and run

check it out if interested

[micro_man]

Can you sell it as a rolling chassis? If so can you email me at bum_bum@surewest.net I dont want to be taking up space on the forums.

thanks

[micro_man]

I am bout to get my reflex soon. I am most likely gonna send payment tomorrow so i should have the car by the end of the week. I am getting it for 190.00 shipped. I thnk that is a good deal. It comes with spare belts and parts from the v-one R. I hear that the v-one r has better plastic. Is that true? What crank does the reflex take? I thinki might of asked before but oh well iw ill ask again. Is it possible to fit a side exhaust in the car? I am thinking about just getting the nova mega sx.12 se for now cuz i can get it for 100 with the x-12 pipe.

Thats all of the q's i can think of right now

thanks in advance

[micro_man]

Heres everything i am getting for 190

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p28016f8976139041c98164ab9b9287b7/fd692fad.jpg

[micro_man]

C'mon guys where is everyone?

The guy sold me his rs.12t5s1 for 130 with the car. He said it was only broken in and never ran.

I saw it on ebay for 195.00 new

I might sell the engine and get an os .12 TR so i can afford a starter box. What version should i get. Or should i just keep the engine and wait to get a starter box?

[loarc]

you got youseft a good deal there. Where do you run? I run my at deltarc. I have both reflex and V one RR. what's the t5s1? I have s5

[micro_man]

Yeah i think it is called an s1 all i know is it is a port turbo with a standard crank, but i cancelled it because the guy said he stripped the threds on the end of the crankshaft. Now I think i iwll just get the picco xp 12 or px 12 orwhatever its called.

later

Btw i found a better forum, techtalk.teamtrinity.com

[KawadaKid]

thats a killer deal!

[micro_man]

Where do you run loarc? I run at RC Concepts. It is almost in old town sac. wehre the 160 ends in sac go left on ahern then right on N. B street. It is like behind a tire place. Indoors gas. It is real well ventilated with a semi good hobby shop on site. They cary a lot of serpent stuff. I dont know if they cary trinity yet because i never looked for it. i wont have my car till about the 17th or so of this month. it is on its way right now.

Later

[bad6as]

why wont a pull star motor fit in the reflex and what kit is easer to put to geather the reflex or the ntc3

[carlosmc]

Let's see. Im writting you from spain so excuse my mistakes.
I've just finnished my triniti, i've been running witch my ex-serpent fror almost 3 years here in spain. My big question is, when i move the car witch out motor it makes a extrange noise, like if the braking disk is touching somewhere, but i don't knor. I've mounted serpents for years and the back of the car is almost the same, but i don't understan this noise. Can someone help????

Thanks

[KingWillie]

I am putting an OS MAX 0.15 CV-Hyper in a Trinity Reflex NT with the three shoe clutch not the Centax. Anyway the flywheel is made for the Trinty series engines and I need a collet to center the flywheel before the clutch nut goes on. Anyone done this before?;)

[TUCRACEMAN]

Originally posted by bad6as
why wont a pull star motor fit in the reflex and what kit is easer to put to geather the reflex or the ntc3

The reason you cannot use the same starter box is that the Reflex and the NTC3 engine's mount in different directions. Also, the NTC3 is much easier to build.

[KingWillie]

I found the Reflex fairly easy to build, possibly not suited for your first adventure, but not difficult at all. One thing I would recommend though. Trim up the receiver box to fit perfectly as it leaves no room for error.

[TopKatz]

Is it normal to have the diff cases leak? Im not sure If I over filed them, and that they are just bleading out the excess.... I filled them up just over teh cross of the spiders.... I put the gasket in, and then tightend them donw good...but they are leaking fluid out....

anyone else have this happen?

[KingWillie]

Yes they will leak, although not every time you seal them up, I've had no leak problems more than I've had problems. We used a little silicone RTV and it takes care of the problem, until you need to change diff fluids. Just a little on the surface the gasket meets takes care of it. Or you can replace the diffs with the ones from the V1R they haven't leaked on us yet, we have one of those too. I think there is a tip sheet in the manual which indicates what the Trinity guys did to help solve this.

[TopKatz]

So ..they are going to leak after I fill/re-fill them..but then they should be fine untill the next time. So i dont nead to brake down the front end and redo it? I have not installed the rear yet.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by TUCRACEMAN
Hey, are any of ya'll running a side exaust engine? If so, what kind of header are you useing?
Thanks,
Dave

KYOSHO Pure Ten Header, works great for the OS CVR. It will take you up and over the transmission mounts, but you will need to bend the wire pipe mount up a bit to get it in the pipe. Not a biggie.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by KingWillie
I am putting an OS MAX 0.15 CV-Hyper in a Trinity Reflex NT with the three shoe clutch not the Centax. Anyway the flywheel is made for the Trinty series engines and I need a collet to center the flywheel before the clutch nut goes on. Anyone done this before?;)

I found the collet in the tire bag. :eek:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by TopKatz
So ..they are going to leak after I fill/re-fill them..but then they should be fine untill the next time. So i dont nead to brake down the front end and redo it? I have not installed the rear yet.

I'd take it apart and redo it, get the stuff down at your local automotive place, should be about $6.00. I have tried tuning the diffs with different viscosity fluids, thats the only reason I have been taking them down.

[TopKatz]

Cool...I feal more comfortable redoing them...It seamed like a larg amount of it had come out over night...and I was a little concerned with it.

Thanks Willie

[TopKatz]

Im almost finished building my Reflex. I have both the front and rear diffs installed, and the center belt installed. I have a couple of questions though....

1. Was I the only person that had a problem with the inner middle pully having to much material in the pin seats? I could not get the eclip into its seat because of it...I ended up just making a new, thinner pin that alowed my to secure the e-clip.

2. Is it normal for the drive trian to be tight at first? Mine is definitly not "free rolling"...it does not bind...but it has significant drag/tention to it. Im guessing it is just from the front and middle belt being tight....

Another note... although Im very happy with the kits overall quality and desighn..the instructions are not very good..they are lacking in some steps, and the hardware suplyed does not match up to what is in the directions. It seams to have gotten worse as I progresed through the directions.

[KingWillie]

hehe, this is Trinity's best set of directions I have ever seen....yeah the drive train can be a little tight, but are you sure your brake disc is aligned correctly and that you didn't leave too little room between the pads and the disc. If the disc is not aligned correctly and the pads are too close you will have drag in the drive train.
About the shaft you couldn't fit the clip on, you need to contact Trinity a reduced clip is nothing, but trouble especially in the drive train. They will send you a new part or advise how to fix what you have. See their website for the right e-mail address, I believe you want the one for parts. They responded for me the same day.

[TUCRACEMAN]

KingWillie, thanks! BTW, have you ever seen Predator II?

~Dave

"Let's see what the bones say."

[KingWillie]

TUCRACEMAN

You can see the part, manifold, on the Tower Hobby website. Check it out here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXH37) You will have to bend the wire mount a bit for the pipe, but no big deal there. ;)
Predator II was cool.

[autotr8er]

Originally posted by TopKatz
Cool...I feal more comfortable redoing them...It seamed like a larg amount of it had come out over night...and I was a little concerned with it.

Thanks Willie

I had the same problems with the diff leaking. You can't torque the screws down tight enough, it seems. Using some Blue RTV will solve the problem. Don't use too much, just a super thin layer will do.

[TitansGT4]

hey guys! im not really new to nitro, i own a Tmaxx an an HPI Nitro MT racer(which i love 2 death). Im lookin 2 buy an on road car, and this one comes w/ the most hop ups. I'd buy it in a second, but a friend of mine told me that it is really hard to put together. Is that true?

[KingWillie]

I think the Reflex can be built with no problems by anyone who has the slightest bit of experience. These are by far the best directions Trinity has ever issued for anything. The only problem I had was with the fit of the receiver box, but cured that with a little sanding with my wifes emory board. The car is my 10 y/o son's racer. He can strip it down and have it back together in about 4 hours, totally cleaned and ready to go in the main. I'd say you can build it, but if you don't think so try the KYOSHO V One-R it is very similar and builds even easier.;)

[rc10gtisthebest]

I just traded my GT for a reflex and boy Do I like the flex.
I want to know what motor would be the fastest/best for the reflex?

I am not a begginer or intermediate i am more advance in Nitro.

Todd

[KingWillie]

Well we have used both side exhaust and rear exhaust engines. I would say both types work well. You will have to be careful which manifold you buy for the side exhaust engines as not all will fit. We have powered the reflex with an OS CVR .12, OS TR .12 and a NovaRossi RS 12. All have been very good with the TR and the RS being faster than the CVR with stock gearing.
I'm waiting for a Sirio ROAR legal engine to arrive check that one out here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXCKX7&P=0) For the price $149 and claimed HP 1.8 it should be a steal, I'd try this one first. ;)

[rc10gtisthebest]

i have a NovaMega C-12 Side exhaust on mine so i guess it's not factory?

I am looking ito a JP Racing XT-12 and use a Standard Plug Instert
,Rossi Black Pixi, Sirio .12, or a Novarossi RS-12 T5

[KingWillie]

I like the Black Pixi and I found a site selling it for $190 yesterday, but I didn't mark the site. I found it in a thread over at the Trinity site. Be sure to check out their board also. I am trying to stay ROAR legal so some engines are out. Our club supposedly is beggining to police this at the post race inspections.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Yeah mine too. Sux lol :p
But i am leaning towards the Novarossi RS-12 T5 Race or JP XT-12 with standard plug.

[Darkside]

Hey guys, I got my eye on the Reflex NT. I was going to pick up a Trinity Sirio .12 engine for it. I got a few question though:

What style of shaft will I need for the car? SG shaft or threaded shaft. I know there was no clutch nut in the kit for SG shafts when it first came out, but what about now?

[TopKatz]

You can use either.... the kit does not come with a nut for SG... however one is available... also, if you wan tto use the centrex type clutch you nead SG... and while using a normal shaft you will probaly have to cut the crank a little

[KingWillie]

Just as a side note, you may want to look at the Kawahara Centax clutch for 1/10th scale cars it is smaller than the one KYOSHO has put on the V1R so it spins up faster. And being from Kawahara the quality has to be good, it's about $89.00 U.S..

By the way I have a Relex NT for sale if you are interested. Raced twice, excellent condition. No electronics. A nice OS CVR 0.12 in excellent condition. KYOSHO manifold. $300 U.S.. non-negotiable e-mail me if interested. I'll throw in a NOVAK XXL synthesized receiver for an extra $60, brand new in the box.

Just getting rid of a few cars to make room for the new T-Maxx, this is a steal of a deal. ;)

[Darkside]

kingwillie: you selling the car, engine and manifold together for the $300 you mentioned? If so, I might be interested.

Let me know.:cool:

[Darkside]

TopKatz: whats the part number for the nut that lets you use the SG shaft?

Where would I be able to find it at?

ALSO: I was wonder......I know that you have to find the right manifold to use a side exhaust engine with the Reflex NT, but are there any manifolds out there that fit that use a spring coupling to hold the pipe on? I can't stand the silicone coupler/zip tie method!

[KingWillie]

If you use an engine like the CVR you can use the KYOSHO side exhaust manifold they designed for the V1R. Works perfectly thats what I have. If you have a rear exhaust engine you can buy the OFNA straight through pipe for the Novarossi 1/10th scale which has the spring loaded coupler for pipe to manifold and there are others with the rear exhaust. Dynamite makes a very nice manifold and pipe that will fit and has the straight through design also you can find them at horizon hobby. As for the Kyosho manifolds they are available at Tower, just go to the V1R listing and look at the bottom of the page.

Gotta cut the lawn then I'll send you the pics.

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Just as a side note, you may want to look at the Kawahara Centax clutch for 1/10th scale cars it is smaller than the one KYOSHO has put on the V1R so it spins up faster. And being from Kawahara the quality has to be good, it's about $89.00 U.S..

This is in a V-oneR but the cars a basically the same. I just replaced my Kyosho Centax with the Kawahara one. It was a royal pain to get together. I had to file the shaft extension that the thrust bearing rides on down quite a bit to get the thrust bearing on. Destroyed a thrust bearing in the process. Had to widen the chassis holes for the engine mount to keep the gears from binding. Had to trim the holder for the rx pack (not a factor for the Reflex and won't be a factor for me when I get the Five Stars chassis) to clear the slide carb arm. The screws that hold the backplate on the engine actually hit the rear brace/belt tensioner that I have installed. It took almost 4 hours to get the thing on. I haven't run it yet so I don't know if it was time well spent. I have a lot of Kawahara parts on my car and other than this clutch I am very impressed with their fit and finish.

[KingWillie]

Helotaxi, I read about the Centax in RC Nitro magazine as one of their project cars, they did not mention any problems at all with installation in a V1R. I am going to write them and see why they did not discuss these issues. I would have expected it to be perfect coming from Kawahara. Thanks for the info, sorry for the installation woes. Let us know how it works.

[KingWillie]

Has anyone had any problems with the servo saver stripping out on them? My son stripped two of them racing at the track today, through no unusual contact.

[TopKatz]

Im using the kimbrogh one... I did not like teh stock one much.... however it would make sense that it could happen given its direct/no slop set up....

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by TopKatz
Im using the kimbrogh one... I did not like teh stock one much.... however it would make sense that it could happen given its direct/no slop set up....

Which Kimbrough? Aren't the holes a different location than the stock?

[TopKatz]

this one

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXS361

I just put the studs in the upper outer holes, then trimmed off the excess plastic. Seams to work good..I have enuff low speed stearing, even though it is not a strong point of the car.

[rc10gtisthebest]

I have had a Reflex for about 4 weeks now and the rear diff just went out on me. ( mind you i got it used).

I was wondering if this diff will fit the Reflex

Kawahara Negative Diff for V1R ?

Also will the Kawahara One way diffs fit on the reflex(front&rear)

Thanks,
Todd

[KingWillie]

Yeah the diffs and one-way will fit, but the two-speeds are not interchangeable.

[rc10gtisthebest]

I wasn't planning on changing the 2 speed the stock one is fine.

[KingWillie]

Sorry, just a little extra info.

[rc10gtisthebest]

it's fine.

Actually i need all the info i can get. I have only had off-road before this and On-Roads aren't as easy as off's

LOL

[Hpi2002]

I just traded reflex nt... I really want to buy some hopups for reflex nt.. what do I have to buy...

[KingWillie]

The new Trinity suspension components shipped 10/13/2002, see their site, check out the team car version of the NT. There is a teflon impregnated pulley for the rear differential. Speaking of rear diffs, go buy the Kawahara negative diff for the rear and the KYOSHO front active diff for the front, it is an adjustable diff.. Then you could upgrade the springs, get the trinity springs for the reflex. Next lets get the K-Factory Centax clutch and KYOSHO urethane belts for the car and while your working on the pulleys replace the Trinity stuff with Kawahara pulleys they have nicer edges on them. Hubs next Kawahara narrow hubs up front and Kawahara wide hubs in the rear, the V1R stuff fits in many places. Well that's it for now, gotta go to work. :cool:

[deeman]

Originally posted by Hpi2002
I just traded reflex nt... I really want to buy some hopups for reflex nt.. what do I have to buy...

My top picks are:

1 - Kyosho belts (front, middle and rear - much stronger)
2 - Reflex spring kit
3 - Reflex aluminum brake arm (doesn't flex like plastic one)
4 - Centax style clutch (or push type clutch as they call it)
5 - Trinity shock ball mounts (no more shock binding)

Other than those things, there wasn't much else it needed :D (makes it easy on the wallet).

D...

[Darkside]

Hey guys:

The motor I was thinking about getting for the Reflex was the O.S. .12TR and I had a few questions:

1. Will I need anything extra to mount up the threaded shaft version of this engine?(I know I might have to cut the crank, thats no problem) What I mean is, the kit flywheel and everything will fit fine on the O.S. engine right?

2. Which version is easier to mount up, the threaded crank or the SG shaft?(I know I would need Trinity's SG adapter nut.) I'm really not planning on running the centax clutch, so is it simpler to just go with the threaded shaft?



Kingwillie: WOW!:eek: Man, is there any of the original Trinity car left after you put all that on?! Man, that must be one impressive NT you got there!:cool:

[KingWillie]

The Reflex is a great car, I just can't resist the goodies for it. I don't have the new composite suspension stuff yet and I'm not sure I'll get it as the car is already so stiff I don't see a need for it.

We run an OS TR 0.12 and you will need to trim 1/4 inch off the shaft, threaded, and use the included collet it's in the tire bag. Nothing else is necessary. I went up one tooth on both the 1st and 2nd spur gears with the TR. It is stronger in the middle than on the top end. I think you'll see that right away. Great engine choice.

[Darkside]

KingWillie: I had to ask because I haven't mounted up a nitro engine since I put an OFNA engine in my OFNA Pirate10 buggy back in '96. And when I did that, the flywheel didn't need any kind of collet/cone. Now it seems that all the engine mounting (threaded or SG shaft) need some type of cone. So I just wanted to make sure the neccesary collet/cone was included with the kit.

Thanks for the answer.

[KingWillie]

The chassis is a blast, very responsive. One word of advice the diff fluids really effect the handling on this beast, get them right and it's so much nicer. I'm trying 50,000 up front and 3000 in the back, no more spins!!! Just check check your shaft length before doing the final assemly on the clutch springs. I put it all together first with the dam springs before I checked the length, then I got to take it apart to cut off the 1/4", duh! :rolleyes: If only I had a brain or maybe I just liked putting those springs on twice. Get a new blade for your hack saw or dremel tool, because the shaft is hardened.

[Darkside]

Kingwillie: I've never had to deal with the three shoe clutch springs, but I've heard enough about them to know that you definitely didn't like putting them on twice!:eek:

thanks for the tip about the shaft being hardened. I'll be sure to pick up a couple new reinforced cut off wheel for my rotary tool.

Now for the diff fluids. Is that 50,000wt front and 3,000wt rear a good starting point for the diff fluids? I know they include 50,000wt with the kit and have you mix it with the kits shock oil to reach the "wt" you want. Is the above better than the 25,000wt front and 80wt rear setup they say to start with?

Once I get and build the car, I wont be doing much diff tuning right away. I just want a good idea of where to start with the fluids.

[deeman]

Darkside: Try 30,000 and 1,000 to start with. Pick up some full weight diff fluids (Kyosho fluids work very well) from someplace like Tower Hobbies or your LHS (mixing never produces the exact weight no matter how hard you try :D). This combo should be workable for a good range of temperatures. As for the shaft, I do recommend an SG style shaft. They are just easier to work with and it makes your motor compatible with most other cars and if Trinity does any clutch/motor upgrades (like the centax clutch), they are almost always centered around SG style engines. And with SG shafts, no cutting, just screw on the adapter ($8 at tower hobbies).

D...
:D

[KingWillie]

Hey Darkside, I see Deeman beat me to it. Bill Rondeau one of the Team Trinity drivers says he thinks it's getting too cold for 50,000. I'm going to go with 30,000 up front as our mains are 10 minutes long and 3000 in the back. I'll see how it goes this weekend. I bought KYOSHO fluids at Tower, but there are a bunch of them out there.

[deeman]

Kingwillie - now that the madmen have been captured, I'm considering that trip down to DC for some more outdoor nitro. Could you give me those details again??? I haven't put my electric cars together yet so I want to get a little more time outdoors. I was thinking about this weekend or next weekend. My brother in-law wanted to try some racing so he want's to come out too.

Thanks,
D...
:D

[deeman]

Originally posted by KingWillie
Hey Darkside, I see Deeman beat me to it. Bill Rondeau one of the Team Trinity drivers says he thinks it's getting too cold for 50,000. I'm going to go with 30,000 up front as our mains are 10 minutes long and 3000 in the back. I'll see how it goes this weekend. I bought KYOSHO fluids at Tower, but there are a bunch of them out there.

Yeah, 30,000 was the best setup for front all summer long by all the Reflex drivers up here in NJ. I've been using it myself all summer with good results. Now if I can just get my Picco XP to run consistently (time to break in that OS TR :D).

D...

[KingWillie]

My son is using using an OS TR .12 non-Turbo in his reflex. Great middle to low upper RPM range. It's a very good engine for the Reflex. I also spend much time wrenching on his cars. He was running a KYOSHO MKII Spider for a while. A great little car, but a little fragile for Team Ten Year Old. So now he runs the Reflex into the back of every Sportsmen out there and the only thing we ever have to fix is the servo saver.

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by deeman
Kingwillie - now that the madmen have been captured, I'm considering that trip down to DC for some more outdoor nitro. Could you give me those details again??? I haven't put my electric cars together yet so I want to get a little more time outdoors. I was thinking about this weekend or next weekend. My brother in-law wanted to try some racing so he want's to come out too.

:D

I don't know if they have this weekend put together again yet, but I'm sure they will have something next weekend. Let me get you their website for Washington DC RC Club (http://www.dc-rc.pinoysites.com/) and the presidents phone number just in case you want to confirm before you journey down here. Marco Bartoli is the club president and this is his phone, (202) 297-0022 and e-mail; marcobar222@aol.com
I'm going to e-mail him and see what they are going to get going again now that this tradgedy is solved.

[deeman]

Originally posted by KingWillie
I don't know if they have this weekend put together again yet...

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty much good for any weekend since my sis lives there and I'm always welcome (I treat the kids verrry well :D). And her hubby wants to get into RC. So, let me know. If not this weekend, sometime in the future before the weather gets too cold. The lonnger I can stay outdoors, the longer I can hold off going electric :D. Nitro Rules!!!!

D...

[Darkside]

Hmmmmm......SG or threaded.....threaded or SG........

That seems to be my biggest debate at this point.

deeman: You said, "just screw on the adapter". Thats it? Everything else will fit straight from the kit parts?

I was just looking at the Reflex's instructions (downloaded from Trinity's site). And the clutch nut they provide for threaded shafts looks so much different than the SG-shafts, that I thought more than just the SG conversion would be needed.

But, that is pretty cool if all you need is that $8 conversion. Not that cutting the shaft is a big deal or anything...:cool:

[KingWillie]

If I had had the choice I would've prefered not to cut the shaft, but the engine I put in the Reflex came out of a KYOSHO WC MKII which the threaded shaft fit correctly. Get the pilot shaft version, SG that is.

[Darkside]

Anyway....I'm sure which ever version I go with, it will work out fine.:D

I will go and check out some pre-blended diff formulas at my local shop. If they don't have the ones I want, then I'll check out Towerhobbies. I must say I wasn't looking forward to mixing those oils myself anyway.:eek: :D

Well, by the time I actually buy the car, I should have every question I wanted to know answered!.....Maybe;)

Thanks guys!

[deeman]

Darkside - the sg adapter comes with a bearing and a replacement nut that take the place of the non sg nut. It will be a direct fit with no problems. By the way, one other recommendation is to mount the steering serving directly to the top plate. The servo clamps they include tend to slip (even their team drivers don't use it). And invest in a set of setup tools (hudy or whatever fits the budget). They pay for themselves when it comes time to setup and fine tune the suspension.

D...

[Darkside]

deeman: thanks for the tips.

I actually just came from checking out the Integy setup tools. I like that they're anodized aluminum and that they're much cheaper than the Hudy set. I've actually had a pivot ball car before (Corally C4.1) and was able to do all the set up work with just a RPM camber gauge, ride height gauge and a set of calipers. But, I am thinking of picking up a full set up system. So I'll see....

Thats too bad to hear about the clamping servo system. I was kinda looking forward to trying it. I noticed that all the pics I've seen of people's Reflexs, they've all used the standard servo mounts, so I kinda figured something was up.

Well thats cool to hear about the SG shaft conversion. It definitely lets me keep my options open in the shaft department.

Thanks

[sebtarta]

How is everone doing?? Well HPI is long gone now, and from what I see that we are all here with our RFX's :D!!

Deeman, how are you?? How is your car handling?? Mine has not been used for a month almost, broke the front arm, and never had a chance to fix it and go and do some laps. Maybe this weekend I'll have time to do some fixing.

Well, ALL, hope the cars are running and all of you are having fun. I am gald this thread is up, and ppl ave question, and answers. :D

Good luck, :)

[KingWillie]

Well, finally ran the Reflex at the local ROAR region 2 race in Virginia this past weekend. Incorporated the diff fluid formulas eventually recommended by Bill Rondeau, Team Trinity driver and several of the forum members here; 25,000 up front and 2000 in the back ride height 6mm up front and 5mm in the back, no stabilzer bars or anti roll bars. What a great car this can be if you set it up correctly. Handled so nice and neutral, actually I think I have to go a little lower in the front and change the caster a bit, it was pushing a little, but what a difference. Definetly investing in a set-up system! :D :D :D

PS Deeman, the DC club has packed up until March, sorry.

[deeman]

Originally posted by sebtarta
How is everone doing?? Well HPI is long gone now, and from what I see that we are all here with our RFX's :D!!

Deeman, how are you...

Hey Seb., how's it going??? Long time no see (hear that is :D)!!! The Reflex is running beautifully, I rebuilt the diffs and changed the setup slightly for the cold weather and hit the perfect setup on the nose the first time. I raced it about 2 weeks ago and TQ'd and got 1st in A-Main by 3 laps on the second fastest (who beat everyone else by about 3 laps) :D:D:D!!!!! The car was on rails. It handled soooo well that I was overheating the motor because I didn't have to go off throttle like I normally had to do. I could throttle around most of the track without a problem. Now I ask myself, why couldn't it handle that way all summer long :(. But, there's one more race weekend in 2 weeks before the Reflex has to go on the shelf for next year. I'm going to miss that car (I'm already suffering nitro withdrawal). Oh well, Spring is only 6 months away (boo hoo hoo :().

D...

[sebtarta]

Hey Dee, and all. Well I hope you can win the next race too. What is your setup?? As I am going to disassemble the car comletely and change all the parts that are in a bad conditon and change the diff fluid and shocks.

MMMMM......here in Boston is cold already, but the weather here changes so drastrically that maybe this weekend we might have the 50s. So we will see what happens.

Then, its time to wait till march for the beggining of the nice weather.
Well, good luck in the race. :D

ALL- anything new in ideas or something for the car.
Good luck, :)

[TopKatz]

sebtarta - were in boston are you. I have a descent size group that runs about 5miles from boston. Drop me a e-mail if your intrested. We will be running sunday moroning for a while.

[sebtarta]

Hi all, any particular setup flying around??
Mine is:
Front
Trinity Yellow Springs
60wt Trinity Shock oil
running flat 0° in all
Caster - Camber - Toe
Back
Trinity Orange Springs
45wt Trinity shock oil
Also runnning flat 0° in all
Camber - Toe

Tires Yokomo Foam

Anyone have something nice for this winter?? or at least what there is left in runnnig time?? before having to put away the car?
Good luck, :)

[Darkside]

Hey guys. I still haven't picked up my kit yet, but I'm slowly but surely picking up all the other stuff I need. So I'll have everything by the time it warms up around here next year.

I was just wondering, where do you guys mount your transponders on the Reflex? Only one of our local tracks uses personals, so I'll still have to find somewhere to mount a standard transponder half the time. And I'm not too keen on mounting it on the body.

I don't have a problem making my own mount(I've done it with many of my electric sedans), I just wanted to see what you guys had come up with. If you have a really nice mount, and a placement thats easy to get to, include a pic of it if you can.

Thanks

Man, I can't wait to get this car!:D

[KingWillie]

If you monut it on the chassis you'll have to place it so it doesn't upset your balance. I mount mine on the body pretty much centered. I did the balancing act with it and used it as a weight to balance the car front to back then marked that spot and did it side to side. drew a line through the two points and cut my hole for it. It looks kind of ridiculous though it is right at the bottom of my windshield almost dead center.

[Darkside]

Nevermind about the tranponder mount question. I've found the perfect transponder mount for the car.:cool:

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Darkside
Nevermind about the tranponder mount question. I've found the perfect transponder mount for the car.:cool:

Share, please!

[ChrisMi6]

Hey guys I am new to this forum since the HPI went down, but I've had my RFX(actually 2) for almost a year now. Anyways I got the trinity aluminum hex's for the last couple of races this season, and they seemed to add a bit of binding in the drivetrain. So do you need to space them out a little from the hub carries's bearings? Oh, and I put my transponder to the left of the steering servo.

[ChrisMi6]

I remembered something else too. After a season of racing it seems that my rear shock tower is bending forward some. Has anyone else noticed this. I think its the rear support becoming more bendable.

[popsracer]

I mount the transponder in the winshield just left of the cooling hole. Then I don't have to remove the body to install and remove the transponder. It's so much less hassle this way.

[JREEVES]

Since I got my Reflex 6 months ago I've been unable to get the 2 speed to shift. I've been running 1/8 scale onroad for 3 years prior and never had a problem with shoe type 2 speeds before this. Tried the factory setup at 5 turns out on the outer screws, also tried 7 turns, 3 turns, 4 turns, rebuilt again. Always made sure the set screws hold the shoes a couple thousands off the bell. Tried a different one way bearing, relubed the cam and balls, etc. I can't think of anything else to try. As I said, I'm familiar with these, they're basically a simple mechanism, but no luck. Anybody got any idea what I'm doing wrong??:confused:

[KingWillie]

JREEVES, try posting your question to this forum, Team Trinity Tech Support (http://techtalk.teamtrinity.com/). I haven't had your problem, in fact the 2-speed shifts very well for me, but these guys should be able to answer your questions. The thread is moderated by Trinity Team drivers and factory support people. Good Luck

[Darkside]

KingWillie: its actually a Kyosho part that comes with their V-One RR kit.

Its a pretty nice transponder mount. It mounts just off the side of the throttle/brake servo, has provision for standard transponders and predrilled holes that would line up with the mounting holes for personal transponders. Even if being mounted there brings the car off balance slightly, it can be accounted for with mild counter weighting. So I like it. If you go to kyosho's web site www.kyosho.com and follow the links their pic of the V-One RR, you can see it mounted on the car. Also on pg. 71 of this years RCCA Touring Car edition, you can see it mounted on the car in Kyosho's ad.

To buy it seperately, it comes with the Kyosho "V-One RR wide bumper set" and the set only runs about $7.80. Someone on the V-One R thread over on rctech.net tracked down the part no. and pic for me. The part number is VZ082.

I attached the pic of it. The transponder mount is at the bottom of the parts tree, you cant miss it. If I'm not mistaken, the V-One R and Reflex use virtually the same bumper system, so thats also not a bad bumper to have either!:D

My LHS HobbytownUSA said that it wouldn't be availible till Dec 3, so I put one on back order.

[deeman]

Originally posted by JREEVES
Since I got my Reflex 6 months ago I've been unable to get the 2 speed to shift. I've been running 1/8 scale onroad for 3 years prior and never had a problem with shoe type 2 speeds before this. Tried the factory setup at 5 turns out on the outer screws, also tried 7 turns, 3 turns, 4 turns, rebuilt again. Always made sure the set screws hold the shoes a couple thousands off the bell. Tried a different one way bearing, relubed the cam and balls, etc. I can't think of anything else to try. As I said, I'm familiar with these, they're basically a simple mechanism, but no luck. Anybody got any idea what I'm doing wrong??:confused:

Maybe this will help. It may not be the 2 speed but the engine itself. When my engine isn't hitting it's highest RPMs, the 2 speed never shifts on my reflex (the clutch shoe springs on the reflex are very stiff). I spent many hours trying to track down a 2 speed problem that was motor tuning related. Make sure your motor is tuned (on the high end needle) to produce max RPM (charecterized by the high pitch wine of a well tuned .12 engine). Currently, my 2 speed is at 7 turns out on the shift screws (outer screws) and at about 2mm below shoe height on the adjustment center screws (inner/middle screws).

Hope that helps.
D...

[KingWillie]

Thanks Darkside, that is a pretty good idea!

[Darkside]

KingWillie: No problem.....just sharing the knowledge!:cool:

[rc4me2]

for those of you who own the car...

what do you like about it?...what dont you like about it?

compare it to other models, please?

how does it perform?

[rc10gtisthebest]

As RCCA Said in the Review it just might be the best handling TC to be produced yet (Stock!)...

It's got tons of Hop Ups Stock! Like 4mm Chassis, 2mm Upper deck, and More!


And it's cheap.


P/S i have a very nice reflex for sale!

PM for details...


-Todd

[rc4me2]

if it's so great, why you sellin it?

[rc10gtisthebest]

I am getting out of On-Road...

Catching air is toooo addicting! LOL...

[popsracer]

rc10gtisthebest;

I ALREADY have 4 NT's in the family.

rc4me2;

That says alot doesn't it?

A FEW minor gripes,
The Radio Box could be 1/8-1/4" fatter/wider. (V1R Box will fit)
Clutch springs break too often and are a pain to change.
The earlier kits had some problems with poor fit and brittle plastic parts (arms, bumper).
I use the V1R Stock Front and Rear springs and they are perfect for any condition. I have never needed to change them to get the car to handle.
What I love most about this car is that when you make a change to the set-up, the Reflex does EXACTLY what you expect it to do.
The Reflex is sooo easy to drive fast. (compared to my HPI) This car never fails to keep me in one of the "A" mains top 3 spots.

[rc4me2]

so w/ the minor problems....have they improved them?

how would you compare it to other cars (of the same caliber)?

thanks

[rc10gtisthebest]

Most of the problems have improved,

Trinity Now includes a soft set of arms and a hard set of arms.
The radio box is still cramped. (My Air. Micro Receiver barely fits!).
And the clutch springs on my reflex have yet to break...


-Todd

[rc10gtisthebest]

Oh yea, I have a new Reflex not an older one...

[rc4me2]

what about the lack of anti-roll bars?

every other tc comes stock w/ them....yet trinity deems that a $60 option....

hows the handling w/o them?

[rc10gtisthebest]

The reflex is one hell of a good handling car it doesn't need um!

[Darkside]

I have heard complaints about the reciever box size. When RCCA did their test, they said they used a Xxtra reciever. Now if that thing fits in the box, I can't imagine people having problems with other ones.

I'm planning on buying an extra...Xxtra to use with my kit. With my Lynx 3D and Xxtra recievers, I've given up on crystals. So I hope the Xxtra fits in the box.

[Darkside]

Oh, by the way. That Kyosho wide bumper set/transponder mount that I mentioned earlier seems to be easy to get. I wasn't expecting it to even be availible before Dec 3, but mine came in yesterday.

It looks like it will work out perfect.:)

[KingWillie]

I have a Novak synthesized receiver in the NT receiver box and it is a little tight, but with some patience you can work your wiring and receiver in nicely. no room to spare though. So far in 4 months we have broken 1 clutch spring and busted the front bumper on a parking lot curb adjusting the set-up. My son is beginning to run rubber tires at the track with it now that it has gotten cold the rubber heats up nicely and I'm not sure that it isn't better than the foams right now. Anyone else trying this with the tires?

[Darkside]

KingWillie: thats good to know that it will fit in there with a little work. Give it a year or so, and maybe somebody will have a smaller sythesized reciever availible!:cool:

[rc10gtisthebest]

I have used rubbers they seem to work alot better on asphalt and on concrete. But not when it's cold!!! I threw away my foams after i wasted them on my 7turn XXX-S! So i now have a set of Team Orion Slicks. They work great

[sebtarta]

Question does anyone know which are the part for the front and back body posts so as to be able to use a Lola Body? I know that the V-1-RR has one but I am not able to find the part #and where to buy them.
2nd Ques. does the centax clutch need a SG-engine, or it can be used with the pilot shaft that the kit comes with.

Any setups for the car?

Hope everyone is ok,
Good luck, :)

[KingWillie]

Foam Set-up (http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0456-setup-c.pdf)
Rubber setup (http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyoc0456-setup-b.pdf)
:D

[sebtarta]

:D:D:D NICE :cool: :cool: :cool:

Seems that Kyosho is upgrading their web site, about time too.
Good luck, :)

[Darkside]

sebtarta: if you look back on this thread a little bit. I posted the picture and part no. for the Kyosho wide bumper set which also has the front post mount for running Lola bodies. Just go back one page, and you should see it there.

I was interested in the transponder mount that comes with the set, but I'm sure the bumper and Lola body mount will also come in handy later on for me too!;)

[sebtarta]

HEHEHE that's what happens when you dont read back....thanx. So it fits the lola body then, any mods, or its just a unscrew old one put new one in?
Good luck, :)

[Darkside]

Well guys, I just finished building my ReflexNT. Everything went pretty well. I got the diffs sealed up well with some sealant. The rear went without a problem, but the front required some extra touch up work to ensure it wouldn't leak. The sealant I was using worked wonders!:D

I still don't have my engine or servos for the car yet, but I've got time to finish getting everything before next season. The important thing is that I have the kit now.

Even with soaking the main belt in wd-40, the drive train definately isn't the most free thing around, but I assume it will free up once I start running the car. Other than that, everything looks perfect. Cant wait to pick up my engine and servos!:cool:

[Darkside]

Sebtarta: Just unscrew the stock body mount plate and screw on the kyosho one. Only down side is that, as you can tell from the V-One-RR pictures in the ads, it isn't designed to be used with a foam bumper. Just the wide plastic Kyosho bumper. That isn't to say you can't rig one up though.....;) :D

[KingWillie]

Darkside, it will free up nicely after you run it a bit, make sure you have the brake disc centered as it will rub a bit a first until you use the brakes and it assumes its spot on the mount.

[KingWillie]

sebarta, on the Trinity forum there is a thread Tuning the Reflex there are several set ups there for the Reflex that the Team drivers have used.

[Darkside]

Kingwillie: yeah, the brake disk being able to move on the mounts was quite a shock to me! I had to go back and make sure I didn't skip a step or something!:D While rolling the car around, I did notice that the disk would center itself, so it didn't concern me much. I do see why people want the aluminum brake lever though. The stock one seems awfully flexable.

This is one pretty car though! It looks so good, it makes you feel bad about actually running it.:D

[rc4me2]

still interested in this car

any more input about pros and cons and successful setups would be appreciated?

how many people are finding that they need to add sway bars?
what about front one-ways or rear ball diffs?

they say its the most race "complete" kit, but i would have to disagree based on what it says it has that other kits dont

someone prove me wrong and convince me to go out and buy this car!

thanks

[OmegaTrac]

Hey guys. Im very interested in the reflex nt. So to get the car up and running I will need a body, exhaust, motor and electronics? Also, should I buy a Hudy Setup board for this car? What type of sealant should I use to seal the diffs? How much of the shaft do I have to cut to fit the MT12 to the Reflex?


This will be my first kit, will I have many problems?

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by rc4me2

any more input about pros and cons and successful setups would be appreciated?

how many people are finding that they need to add sway bars?
what about front one-ways or rear ball diffs?

they say its the most race "complete" kit, but i would have to disagree based on what it says it has that other kits dont


You can find set-ups on the Trinity Tech Talk site (http://techtalk.teamtrinity.com/) the Team drivers are moderators and will share their set-ups.

We have not added sway bars to the car yet and now that we have the set-up down I'm not sure I want them.

As far as race ready, of course it is, it has many features other kits will make you pay extra for and you could always splurge for the team car if you've got the bucks. However, the bigger question is are you race ready the car 's potential can not be touched if you are not ready. Personally I'm not, but my 10 y/o is getting there.;)

[JREEVES]

Here's the parts I got from RCModel.com.hk for the floating body mount set...

Hi,

For the floating parts, you need to buy:

KY-VZ083
KY-VZ088

Regards,

Terence Lam

Online R/C Model Shop
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk

I just ordered these for my Reflex but I don't know yet if any V-One R parts are needed to complete it.
:confused:

[JREEVES]

:)BTW, if you want to read a couple posts (5,494 currently) about our sister car, V-One R/RR, check out this link...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=168

And if you're looking for a good deal on V-One R hop ups and parts check out...

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=88&cat=GP+Hop+Up+Parts

[JREEVES]

KingWillie, you mentioned in an earlier post finding the Pixie .12 for $190, this place has it for $190+$15 shipping to the U.S. ...

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshopping/shopexd.asp?id=1705

[KingWillie]

Jreeves, thanks. I've been buying almost all of my V1R stuff from RCModel for a few months now. I really appreciate how they manage to keep the parts and almost all of the hop ups in stock. I try to buy from Tower and other US retailers and almost always have availability issues.
Another good site is Hobby Net Japan (http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html) it's even cheaper, but payment is not as convenient, however I have had no trouble with them at all. Another good V1R parts site.

[rc4me2]

has anyone purchased trinitys 'powered version' of the nt

if so, what was the best price you found?

and how do you like it so far?

thanks

[Darkside]

I haven't even seen it listed for sale anywhere yet. I asked where I might buy one while on Tech Talk, but got no response. So I went ahead and bought the stuff seperately.

[KingWillie]

Tower has it listed for early December.

[schnitzer]

Hi all,

I need some advice regarding MTX3 and reflex team kit. Both are about the same price but which kit offers the most bang for the 0.35 grand in your opinion?

Some questions regarding mtx:
1. Does it includes a front one way?
2. Does it accept side exhast coz i had an extra CVR lying around waiting to be utilise?
3. How does a cvec pipe complement one of these two kits?

BTW, i had just snapped the cord for my hyper21 8-port in my buggy. i had decided to keep the turbo fan inside without replacing the pull start(will use a starter box but will not convert the backplate) How does it sounds?

:D

[KingWillie]

I couldn't offer anything at all on the MTX3, but I have have some experience with the reflex NT and upgrading it to the Team level. My son races this car every two weeks year round. It is an easy car to work on and maintain. The Trinity parts have gotten much better since the car was introduced. The latest composites are so stiff its hards to beleive they don't just snap, but they don't! The car responds to input precisely. It responds to all input so if you are an accomplished driver the car will serve you very well. It responds exactly to set up changes.
So with the improvement in the Trinity pieces and all the stuff that comes stock on the Team car I don't think you can go wrong.

I was just looking at the MTX3 and while it has a tremendous reputation it does not have the pieces, "hop-ups", that the Reflex NT Team only version has. The Reflex is just beginning to make a name, but Josh Cyrul just placed 2nd at the Worlds in Cincinnati with the Team car you are talking about. It finished second to an NTC3 and ahead of about 6 new 705s followed by another NT and no MTX3s in sight.

Might be worth a shot.

[schnitzer]

thanks for the info:cool:

[KingWillie]

Oops forgot, you can use the CVR in the Reflex.We did for about 6 months. Just get the KYOSHO manifold for the V1R that they recommend to use with the CVR. I thinks it's about $18 US. Should work with the CVEC pipe.
What you really want is a rear exhaust engine and the Trinity straight through pipe and manifold with spring loaded coupler. Works GREAT!:D

[Darkside]

I really like the look of this Trinity inline pipe set. It nice! One thing to watch out for though. Mine came out the package with a blocked pressure coupling. Luckily I found it while inspecting the pipe. I was able to clear it out with a push pin, but I'm not sure what it was that was blocking it. I doubt the pipe would have provided much pressure to the fuel tank with the coupling being blocked.:rolleyes:

Anyway, like I said, it was an easy problem to correct.

[Darkside]

Man, I just read over this entire thread and noticed something strange. No one has any pics of thier cars posted. Whats up with that!:)

Come on, if you've got pics of your RNT, then lets see em'.:D

[TopKatz]

Just for you Darkside!

http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/rfx-5.jpg

http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/rfx-1.jpg

I have actualy been trying to stay away from the boards...the weather is crap up here, and it is depressing to thinkabout my RFX right now..... although I just charged up my gear to bash my NMT this weekend!

[Darkside]

Just for me........awwwwww.....I feel so special!:D

Looks good! Thanks

[KingWillie]

I'm not posting until after Christmas and the new engine and pipe are installed along with the Kawahara Negative Diff and low friction pulley and new composites and the new one way...........

yes I believe in Santa, yes I believe in Santa, Yes I believe in Santa
yes I believe in Santa, yes I believe in Santa, Yes I believe in Santa
yes I believe in Santa, yes I believe in Santa, Yes I believe in Santa
yes I believe in Santa, yes I believe in Santa, Yes I believe in Santa....................................

Merry Christmas everyone ;)

[Darkside]

Kingwillie: LOL! Yeah, I know what you mean. I'm waiting to complete my car before I start with the picture taking.

With all that stuff you want, and the prices on some of it, you better believe in Santa!:D LOL!

[KingWillie]

My son is getting a Sirio 0.12 Roar legal engine, Trinity straight through polished exhaust system, K-Factory low friction rear pulley, delrin mounting posts for the shocks, new green composites, sway bars front and rear, a new 911 GT1 body and several sets of Nitro Shoes. I'll bet he's ready for pics by Christmas night. He'll have the engine broken in day after so he can race it the following weekend....hehehe. I'll let you know how the Sirio works out it was $140 US from Tower.

[TopKatz]

KW - I found that the rear sway was way to stiff.... I only used it for a lap or two befor I ganked it off. The front works awsome though, you will probaly have to losen the front suspention a little bit though.....

[KingWillie]

I have the blade type sway bar for the front and for the rear I got the KYOSHO V1R sway bar kit and three different bars.
I wondered about the sway bars as the kit is already pretty stiff, but he said it was a gotta have item.

[TopKatz]

I have the v-one sets for both f/r .... I have not tryed the blades yet... I like to run realy soft and low in the rear, and the rear sway just killed what little travel I had...so it was not holding its line quite as well as it did with out.

The front sway works realy well.... the only isues I had with them was that the stock rfx plastic does not accept the ball studs for the sway, and they dont suply you with any top mounts for the sway bar on the deck. I ended up getting kyosha plastic for the front mount(can be installed with out removing anything I think if you just use the parts with your origonal a-arms) and I got some TOBY aluminum sway mounts( anodized blue...nice!).

You will have to play with it your self to find what works best. Im sure that it all depends on how the car is set up... the more travel the suspention has, the more you nead them.... my car is cranked down with the front down stops, and the back sags way down from the soft suspention, and the torq

good luck, and happy holidays!

katz

[Darkside]

TdT


To da Top

:cool:

[da king]

Originally posted by rc4me2


any more input about pros and cons and successful setups would be appreciated?

how many people are finding that they need to add sway bars?
what about front one-ways or rear ball diffs?

they say its the most race "complete" kit, but i would have to disagree based on what it says it has that other kits dont

someone prove me wrong and convince me to go out and buy this car!

thanks [/B]

I drove the car all summer and only had to buy 2 parts for it!! Minus tires. and bodys.

The car is bas ass!!!!! Ive raced on small parkinglot tracks and big sticky tracks. the car rocks!!!!! Everywhere!!!
No need for bars, and run the stock diffs. If setup right the car has tons of steering. When i built the car to the book, it sucked! Wouldnt turn off power and would slide when you hit the gas.

Heres how i ran the car every where.
diff f/r 7000, shocks asc copper and 60wt in front, asc red and 50wt in back.
Ran it like that for foam and rubber. You need to run the asc lower spring keeper to run the springs from the tc3.

If you run rubber set the camber 0 front and 1 deg back. 2 deg rear toe in.

If you run foams set the caber 2 deg f/r and 1deg rear toe in.
if you run on a real sticky track you may have to goto purple front and copper in back and go up 10wt all around to settle the car down.

One last thing......Dont run any thing but the protoform stratus. the trinty doent have enough down force. Scratched my head all day on that one.
Oh ya the stock clutch sucks!!!!...put a 1/8 scale mugen clutch in it. black shoes with the 1.1 spring. Perfect clutch.
When set up like this the car is consestent.....ran a 30 main on rubber tires....halfway through the belts wore through and the lap times didnt slow down at all. Start to finish the lap time were 3 tenths apart. For 30 mins!!!!!!!!!
Ok thats enough hype.

[deeman]

Don't get me started on "REFLEX LOVE" :D!!! The way I talk about it at the track, you'd think I worked for Trinity! So much so that everyone's making the switch. Because it responds to setup changes quickly, I was able to learn sooooo much about suspension/handling tuning over the summer. The car handles like a dream. I do have to admit, all summer I had some (really alot) motor problems that left me with many 4th place and below finishes. I had a Picco XP .12 (non turbo). It's a pain to tune and it's very finicky to weather changes. It's also pure HP and top end - no bottom end or midrange punch. I usually spent all day adjusting it. The motor finally redeamed itself at the end of the summer (with the help of some Trinity veterans) and rewarded me with it's first 1st Place finish. Too bad it was the last race of the summer season. I have a brand new OS TR .12 (roar legal version) standing by for next year so it should be a gooooood nitro season :D!!!

Reflex #2 is almost built (except for shocks which I will do at the start of the season in March). By the way, I haven't broken a part yet (even though it's been crashed and rammed on more than a few occasions). The standard plastic parts work fine (no need for the composite parts if you don't need em). I may get a set of them to try them out but I'll have to see if it's worth it (none of the fastest Reflex drivers think they are neccessary yet - atleast not at our local tracks).

So enough of my rambling about Reflexes. Anyone who's on the fence about getting one should "JUST DO IT!!!!!" I guarantee, you won't be sorry!!!

Signed,
In Love With My Reflex,
D...
:D

[deeman]

Hey KingWillie.

Is the weather still that good there down south for outdoor nitro????

I've migrated indoors for electric to work on the skills but nitro is my passion and I'm willing to make some road trips for it.

Let me know the scoop down there.

Thanks alot,
D...

[KingWillie]

Hey Deeman, we are still racing, but the crowds are thinning a bit right now. There were only about 10 entrants in Nitro Pro two weeks ago and we usually see at least twice as many. Plenty of Sportsman still showing up. The 1/8th guys were like non-existant two weeks ago. I don't know if it would be worth the trip right now. But when March rolls around it warms up quickly here and they should be coming out of the woodwork again.

[Darkside]

Hey KingWillie: I saw a KingWillie over on the RCtech boards on the V1R thread, was that you? I go by the name "Darkseid" over there(spelling is different). There isn't much of a ReflexNT thread over there, thats why I come here. Just to talk Reflex!:D

Man, saying that its a tight fit getting the XXtra into the reciever box along with all the wires, is kind of a understatement! LOL! Good thing is, at least you know it wont rattle around in there! LOL! Honestly though, I'm really hoping I wont have to change frequences very often. ;) My car is almost complete, just need one more thing...

NEXT WEEK! I'll finally be getting my engine for my car. YIPPIE!:D

[KingWillie]

Hi, Darkside. Yes that was me mouthing off about the MTX3s, nobody is smoiking anyone around here with them or the 705s. I guess in Australia they are the rage.
Yeah, the receiver is a tight fit isn't it! I drilled two holes in the box and used two KYOSHO crystal covers to plug the holes so I can change the frequencies without taking the box apart, nightmares is the only thing that comes to mind there. Try it works great. Are you getting a TX with a Novak module?

[Darkside]

KingWillie: Nope, no Novak Tx unit needed here.

I'm sure once the Novak unit gets well into circulation, most people will forget, but Hitec has been been going without crystals in the Tx department for quite some time.

Thats what I've been running all year. Hitec Lynx 3D w/ Spectra module and Novak XXtra. No crystals needed and they work great together!

Novak can keep their $100 unit!:cool:

[sebtarta]

Hi all, :DHAPPY NEW YEAR:D
Well the weather here in Boston is not that great, it snows then the next day its 45° but all wet. Once the snow and all has vanished it snows again.:(
Eitherway, I am planning in buying the centax clutch for the car, and maybe the new front shock tower. In terms of all the rest the car is still in stock conditions, and as Deeman said before, I have not broken anything yet, just bent a drive shaft (not BROKEN :p).
Anything else I should consider in terms of upgrades?
Good luck, :)

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by sebtarta

Anything else I should consider in terms of upgrades?
Good luck, :)

My son put a Hitec Digital/High torque steering servo, a HiTec digital/high speed throttle/brake servo in and a 1600mah RX pack in to power all of it, quite a difference in steering control, he's using a Futaba 3PJS TX. Also put in a Sirio 0.12 Roar legal engine, literally a pocket rocket, much quicker than it was with the OS TR 0.12 non-turbo, same gearing. We also got a HUDY set-up board for Christmas, this was the best hop-up of all. What a difference actually knowing what your doing to the car. Hope everyone had a Happy New Year......good racing this year...:)

KW

[Darkside]

sebtarta: now thats just not right what the weather is doing to you up there. Its like its teasing you! LOL

Once I get mine running, I'm planning on running mine stock for at least a little while. So I can at least have a reference point for when/if I start adding hop ups. The only thing I'll get is the spring tuning set.

Even though you guys haven't had any breakage, I'm still going to pick up a few extra items for the season. Just to be safe, you know. My car came with extra front and rear hubs, so I don't have to worry about that. But I am going to pick up:

-front arm set- just to be safe
-clutch spring set- I heard a couple people say they broke one.
-V1R center belt- you guys say its stronger than the stock Trinity one. So I might make the Trinity one the "extra" ;)

But thats about it for extras.

KingWillie- I would have thought you would have already had a set up system! With you and your son having a good couple of cars between you and all. Personally, I'm going to pick up the Integy set up system and the case for it. Its pretty sweet and at a good price.

Only 4-5 more days tell I get my engine! Then I'll be Ready-To-Run! Whoo-hooo!!!:eek: :D

[KingWillie]

Darkside, we have finally broken something on the Reflex, it took my son to do it! He hit my V1R at about 35-40mph while it was stationary at my feet . Took the froont left lower arm clean off. He wasn't looking up the track and didn't see me refueling until it was too late. V1R suffered a bent sway bar and probably needs a new shock shaft also.
He had it running again in about 15 minutes, back out on the oval with the new Sirio. We have had several belt failures up front. If your going to buy KYOSHO belts get the Team belts they make a huge difference as far as reducing rolling resistance. The stock belts are pretty stiff.
One other thing I forgot we added a Kawahara negative differential with the K-Factory low resistance rear pulley on it. If you can get one you really should do this it is so cool the way it works. Like a normal diff when off power and then progressively locking up while under power. I really like this thing. I bought at the RCModel HK site.:eek:

[Darkside]

KingWillie: do you happen to know the part # for the center Kyosho Team belt?

At TowerHobbies, I actually see two different Kyosho belts. One says its the (378) belt and another is listed as the Special Kyosho belt (375) for the V-One RR.

Which one should I go for?

[KingWillie]

The Team belt is Special Kyosho belt (375) for the V-One RR. They are much more pliable and thinner.
For the front I would really recommend using the KYOSHO Team belt also as we have gone through quite a few Trinity belts.

[helotaxi]

Does the Reflex have a 25T or 27T front side pulley. The RR has a 25 tooth and the 375 is meant for it. The R has a 27 tooth and the 378 is the belt meant for it. Probably won't make much of a difference once it is broken in, but until then the 375 will most likely be a bit tight. This might cause clearance problems with the rear exhaust header, especially if you use the low CG mounts.

[Darkside]

helotaxi: the NT has a 27T front side pulley.

KingWillie: thanks for the answers. I'll also take a look at the Team front belt.

So have you experienced any problems using the (375) belt with the Reflex's 27T front side pulley? Is it tight or does it still seem to fit just right dispite the 2T pulley difference?

[ChrisMi6]

Have any of you guys used the lcg engine mounts? How well does it work with the centax, and do you go through belts a little more with the higher tension on the belt tensioner?

Also I'm just curious to know what brand of foams you all run?

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by Darkside

So have you experienced any problems using the (375) belt with the Reflex's 27T front side pulley? Is it tight or does it still seem to fit just right dispite the 2T pulley difference?

You know I never thought ab