Mugen MTX-2 Nitro Touring Forum [Archive]

SteveP

07-19-2001, 09:52 PM

Many of the parts included on this car are new, so there aren't going to be part numbers yet for some of them.

The front one-way is new, but I wouldn't suggest it if you have a track where hard braking (sharp corners) is required.

The clutch set is a new Centax-style unit designed for the MTX. I would personally prefer this style clutch because it's more easily adjusted. I caution most users however, that a Centax clutch is much more diffcult to install properly, requiring more complex tools than you'll find in the average tool box. They work great when you get 'em set-up properly, but I've seen guys with 10 years nitro experience screw up installation of Centax clutches.

The aluminum engine mounts are eye candy.

The wheel hub spacers are designed to allow the use of foam tires without the inner rim contacting the hubs or suspension arms. Nothing else.

The Damper springs are simply a different rate springs, one that's likely more suited to running a one-way set-up.

BTW - this kit won't be available in the States for a little while, so you did get the current top of the crop if you recently bought a car.

[ 07-19-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

SteveP

07-19-2001, 10:07 PM

Wolf - that's perfectly normal for a two-speed. the gears will spin freely in one direction.

BlackWolf

07-20-2001, 03:11 AM

I had a very close call this evening.. I was going over my car, and I thought that the shifter was too far to the right of the car making the large spur gear kind of hard to turn when going the direction of the one way bearing in it.

When I put the car together, I used Loctite 271 (Red) threadlock. BIG MISTAKE!!

To make a long story short, I couldn't remove the setscrew to take off the shifter. I broke 2 craftsman allenwrenches on top of the 'shoppers' world' one that came with the kit. Time to panic!!

I went on the web to see if there was somthing that will act as a solvent for the loctite that I used. It turns out, methylene chloride will turn locktite into mush. The only problem is I don't have any paint stripper around. There was another chemical that acts as a solvent on loctite. Methanol. RC Fuel has methanol in it. I made a mess trying to get fuel down the hole on the shifter. I let fuel sit there, and ended up breaking one more allen wrench. Time to really panic!

Should I wait till the AM, and get some paint stripper with methylene chloride in it, or try my hand at somthing else. There was no way was I ready to go through the entire night knowing my RC car was broken because of somthing I did.

Having an IQ of 119, I sat around and thought of a way to get heat onto the shifter screw without melting everything else on the car. I finally came up with somthing so simple. My Weller Soldering Iron!

I put a fine tip on it, cranked up the temp, and stuck it into the hole. A couple minutes later, and a nice burn on my index finger, THE SETSCREW CAME OUT! I'm euphoric at the moment, I got it out..

Lesson: 1) Red loctite is fine for an RC10GT, use purple and blue for a touring car... 2) Relax

[ 07-20-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

BlackWolf

07-31-2001, 05:40 AM

bump - ttt

StephenB

08-01-2001, 12:10 AM

I wouldn't suggest red-strength loctite for any RC application where disassembly is necessary...it's even listed on the packaging that it's "permanent" ;) Blue loctite is the bomb :D

Nitro_Rustler_15

08-01-2001, 12:26 AM

Hey guys I'm thinking of getting an MTX-2 sports so I can race, but I've never assembled a car b4, lol, I've taken apart my Nrustler completely and reassembled it, and have done the whole tmaxx b4 but how hard was it to build the mtx-2? Can someone scan a page from the manual so I can see how bad the instructions supposedly are? lol Thanks in advance :D

BlackWolf

08-01-2001, 05:52 AM

Nitro_Rustler_15

When I first got the MTX2, I was sort of scared of the destruction manual. I've been putting Associated cars together for a while now, and when I saw the Mugen manual, I almost died.

As soon as I started putting the MTX2 together, I found out that even the 'non-userfriendly' manual was easy to follow. It's just a matter of deciphering the poor japaneese translations. The trick I found was to pay very close attention to the pictures. Just take your time.

Nitro_Rustler_15

08-01-2001, 09:12 AM

LOL, i love cheap japanese translations those things crack me up :D I'll prolly pick up one of these racing machines next week once the dude comes to pick up my Nitro Rustler. Thank ya. :D

BlackWolf

08-02-2001, 03:02 AM

I'll scan a page out of the manual for you. Maybe I'll scan the complete manual and add some tips to it.. Yeah! I'll do that. Keep your eyes on this message for future edits.

Nitro_Rustler_15

08-02-2001, 11:17 AM

Aight thanks blackwolf you have been most helpful :D

BlackWolf

08-11-2001, 09:00 PM

Today at the track, the belt came off the pulley that runs the belt to the front diff. Does anyone know why this happened? and how I prevent it from coming off again? It totally ruined my day.. I wish sombody made a belt tensioner for the belt that drives the front wheels.

Please advise.

This MUGEN MTX2 Forum IS DEAD :(
I posted this in another forum because NOBODY reads this Mugen MTX2 forum :( It's so sad :(

tekrsq

08-11-2001, 09:47 PM

I know a BUNCH of guys that have the same problem, but I know a bunch that haven't had any problems at all. I'm not sure exactly what the cause is but I assume it's due to small rocks getting in there. Every time mine throws a belt, the pulley is eaten up also. Some of the guys switched the 18t pulley (inside center block pulley) with the 19t pulley on the outside of the tranny shaft. The extra tooth takes up a lot of the slop and won't mess up the drive ratio because it's within the same mechanical advantage (pulley) system. What I did was glue a thin piece of lexan to the chassis in front of the center block covering about 1/2 of the chassis cutout and replaced the plastic gear with an aluminum one. This helped TREMENDOUSLY. I haven't thrown any belts since I did this about 6 months ago. Good Luck.

BlackWolf

08-15-2001, 02:31 PM

it seems like rocks and junk are getting in from underneith. Would it be ok if I were to cut a peice of lexan and fit it into the holes and glue it in?

(THe gaping holes on the bottom of any touring car)

BlackWolf

08-16-2001, 12:54 AM

I'm a terrible driver but my stuff looks 'good'

I have to really practice.. A LOT!

Here's a glimpse..

http://www.fototime.com/F6B28740DBBACCD/standard.jpg

BlackWolf

08-16-2001, 01:17 AM

When my MTX2 hits it's topest speed, it gets really squirrely, and wiggles around. It's really tough to control.. What could that be?
If you want, I can find my setup speet and give you gus my ridehite, and droop, and camper and caster settins if that his anything to do with it

Thanks You Awsome Mugen People!!

tekrsq

08-17-2001, 06:05 AM

Blackwolf-- try the lexan first. If it doesn't help, then you might want to try the aluminum pulley. But I would try the cheapest thing first. Your car could be squirrly for a lot of reasons. First, make sure the wing is angled correctly. It should be angled with the front downward. If the wing is set right, then start looking at suspension setup.

BlackWolf

08-20-2001, 09:03 PM

I adjusted the wing by twisting and warming, and tweaking. It made a difference. Pretty nice. I'm going to take a look at the adjustable wings.
I'm new to onroad, and I'm still getting used to the aspects of it.

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: BlackWolf ]

tekrsq

08-21-2001, 09:15 PM

The wing makes a HUUUUUUUGE difference.

BlackWolf

08-31-2001, 06:59 AM

Since this thread is DEAD. Can some of you please re-direct me to some boards/sites where the MTX2 is the center of attention?

ephabmixay

09-16-2001, 12:27 AM

Can you help me find 42t spur gear and 22t pinion for me MTX2
Thanks

tekrsq

09-17-2001, 09:57 PM

BlackWolf- one of the most informative boards relating to the MTX-2 is in the "Non HPI Nitro Cars" on the HPI site. There are a couple of others, but not as much traffic.

Ephabmixay- The 42t delrin gear can be found at www.powerlineracing.com (http://www.powerlineracing.com) . As for the 22t pinion, if you run the MRX-2 axial clutch, you can use the Avance 22t pinion gear. It will not fit on the stock MTX-2 clutch. I've also heard of people using Yokomo gears, but I do not know if they will work on the stock clutch.

BlackWolf

09-25-2001, 12:51 AM

I just destroyed my MTX2 in a really bad wreck.
Since I'm going to have to replace the chassis, I was wondering if Ti would be a good idea.

I know that Ti will snap and crack before it bends.

Q: Is the force needed to bend an aluminum chassis more or less than what it takes to snap/crack/bend a Titanium chassis?

Q: What are the different grades of titanium, and whats the difference in weight from Aluminum to Titanum?

Q: What brand or grade of Titanium chassis should I go for on my Mugen MTX2?

Please Advise.

Ah10

12-20-2001, 10:49 PM

Let's start a MTX2 thread here!

Ah10

12-20-2001, 10:50 PM

Took a few more pictures of my MTX-2, I have just put some Light Blue Springs.

Kawahara Clutch Diff
http://www.homedecorfactory.com/rc cars/kawahara_negative_diff_LBspring.jpg
Mugen Front Oneway
http://www.homedecorfactory.com/rc cars/mugen_front_oneway_LBspring.jpg
Side View
http://www.homedecorfactory.com/rc cars/MTX2_side_view_muffer_LBspring.jpg

Going to go to Revelation on Tuesday to test the Kawahara Clutch diff and Mugen Front Oneway with the combination of:

Yokomo ST-A261F Front Tire
Yokomo ST-A321H Rear Tire
Centex Clutch
Front 1 degree Camber
Front 0 degree Toe
Rear 2 1/2 degree Camber
Rear 2 degree Toe
Track Width Front: 199mm Rear:209mm
Ride Height: Front 4mm Rear 6mm
Front and Rear Sway Bar

Oh one more thing, I am using Penguin rear shock tower, but if you pay attention to the first image,(Kawahara Clutch Diff), I use the lowest setting hole for the rear shock as the camber linkage. By doing this it allows longer camber linkage to match up with the lower A-arm, As you all know the closest length difference between the upper linkage and lower A-arm, the less camber changes that will be when spring is compressed. I am trying to eliminate body roll and suspension geometry changes when doing hard cornoring as much as possible. Hope it will work! Will update you guys next week!

Hope I will have a good day on Tuesday and I will try to post as detail as possible on different setting of the car!

Welcome any suggestion on car setting to make it run better! Thanks

broughamlover

12-21-2001, 08:18 PM

how is that clutch diff working for you? im thinking about getting one

Ah10

12-21-2001, 08:25 PM

Originally posted by broughamlover
how is that clutch diff working for you? im thinking about getting one

It works great! just like what it supposed to do, disengage on slow speed and I can have diff action, makes the turn small and good rear traction. and when I gas it out of corners then it becomes a solid axle, on long straight away is very stable as well as power out of corners too!

You wont regret! got one dude!

Raydee

12-21-2001, 08:41 PM

I love mine too! It is a great car.

big2wons

12-31-2001, 02:10 PM

Do you recommend the K&N air filter... i have a mtx2 with a Mugen Turbo and was wondering if the the K&N is a good idea. Sure do look better than most filters.

Ah10

12-31-2001, 02:14 PM

Originally posted by big2wons
Do you recommend the K&N air filter... i have a mtx2 with a Mugen Turbo and was wondering if the the K&N is a good idea. Sure do look better than most filters.

I love the K&N filter! it last forever all you need to do is to wash it and reoil it! besides it fits the carb perfectly!

big2wons

12-31-2001, 02:17 PM

haven't had any engine problems? hear dirt gets into the engine and the motor saver filters are better...?? what do you think?

Ah10

12-31-2001, 02:28 PM

Originally posted by big2wons
haven't had any engine problems? hear dirt gets into the engine and the motor saver filters are better...?? what do you think?

If you clean and oil the filter correctly then you will be fine!

I have seen a lot of ppl using Moter Saver, honestly they all work the same just the matter of personal taste! The reason I like K&N is because it looks good, it last forever!

Hope that will help

StevePond

12-31-2001, 04:49 PM

I think the K&N has the potential to be a better filter. Problem is, you have to maintain the filter and there are some people that simply won't do it, then complain because the filter is not working as well as it could.
The thing with K&N air filters, based only on my experience with them, is they're designed for racing. They have to be cleaned and properly oiled, then they will capture as much or more dirt than any other filter, while allowing greater air flow. Real racers will gladly remove the filter every race or two, depending on the conditions, and clean and re-oil the filter. There are some RC folks that expect these filters to last a whole season without ever touching them.
Bottom line is, I think K&N has got a very good filter. If you don't mind a little upkeep. I know this thread isn't about air cleaners, but I saw you asked, so I figured I'd add my .02.

BTW - I'm in the process of building two MTX cars. One a full-option car with Mugen parts and the other with Kawahara parts. It's going to be a fun little project! :D

Ah10

12-31-2001, 04:59 PM

Originally posted by SteveP
I think the K&N has the potential to be a better filter. Problem is, you have to maintain the filter and there are some people that simply won't do it, then complain because the filter is not working as well as it could.
The thing with K&N air filters, based only on my experience with them, is they're designed for racing. They have to be cleaned and properly oiled, then they will capture as much or more dirt than any other filter, while allowing greater air flow. Real racers will gladly remove the filter every race or two, depending on the conditions, and clean and re-oil the filter. There are some RC folks that expect these filters to last a whole season without ever touching them.
Bottom line is, I think K&N has got a very good filter. If you don't mind a little upkeep. I know this thread isn't about air cleaners, but I saw you asked, so I figured I'd add my .02.

BTW - I'm in the process of building two MTX cars. One a full-option car with Mugen parts and the other with Kawahara parts. It's going to be a fun little project! :D

Totally agree with your point on maintaining the air filter! I personally clean it and reoil it every 2 days of track time.

An engine is expensive I wouldnt mind to keep the airfilter clean to pretect my investment!

big2wons

12-31-2001, 07:36 PM

Yup, I just built and broke in the engine in my mtx (a mt turbo)
order some minor kw. parts for it...

I am planning to build another one in spring... i already have the kit (170 on ehobbies), a zspeed radio tray, and an RB Concept 1.4 40,000 rpm 5 port .12 engine... i hear that it's the fastest you can get that isn't JP... Cannot wait...

I make a lot more money than the people i know that owns serpents... :D .. but they always say that the mugen doesn't handle as well cause of relative high center of gravity...

Serpents do handle a little better, but we usually just dragg race anyhow... they say its the damn fuel tank... it's not centered... anyone know of a company that makes a radio tray that centers the fuel tank?

nitrothugg

01-09-2002, 11:42 AM

could anyone tell if the chasis on this kit would be able to fit an engine with a pull start?

Ah10

01-09-2002, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by nitrothugg
could anyone tell if the chasis on this kit would be able to fit an engine with a pull start?

I dont think so! first the side belt is too close to the rear exhaust fo the engine so it probably dont have enough space to accomodate the pull start unit! Second on the right side of the engine where the side exhaust port is also too close to the rear bulkhead brace(the brace is sitting up high where the side exhaust manifold is, so it might not have enough room to clear the manifold!

Ah10

01-10-2002, 11:59 AM

Any MTX-2er here? seems quite!

MainEvent

01-12-2002, 04:12 PM

yes I have ordered a pro spec2 , it was my final choce of a RC car . I see you on the other board but im having probs staying logged in there :rolleyes: what other good bodies do you suggest for the Mugen?

Ah10

01-13-2002, 01:55 AM

Originally posted by MainEvent
yes I have ordered a pro spec2 , it was my final choce of a RC car . I see you on the other board but im having probs staying logged in there :rolleyes: what other good bodies do you suggest for the Mugen?

I have run 4 bodies, CLK DTM, M3 GT, CLK GTR and Mercedes S-class.

CLK DTM: Front downforce is pretty good meaning you will have sharp initial turn respond.

M3 GT: very well balance on both front and rear downforce(I tilted the rear wing to achieve greater down force.

CLK GTR: This is the best handling extremly good front and rear downforce, almost too much! :p :p

S-Class: One word "Piece O f S hit.

MainEvent

01-13-2002, 10:55 AM

The track here is outside and is not very long , only one other person runs a Mugen and hes not always there . Any tips ?

BTW the Kit im getting comes with the Stratus .

Ah10

01-13-2002, 03:25 PM

Originally posted by MainEvent
The track here is outside and is not very long , only one other person runs a Mugen and hes not always there . Any tips ?

BTW the Kit im getting comes with the Stratus .

lots of ppl tell me Stratus body is the best handling body! but I never tried it before! I want to try it too!

Ah10

01-13-2002, 08:41 PM

Just want to let you guys know the goodies I have on my MTX-2 now! :D :D

1. Kawahara Chassis
2. Kawahara Negative Diff
3. Kawahara Anti Roll Bar with Mount
4. Mugen Front Oneway
5. Tech Racing Mid Oneway
6. 5 Star Carbon Fiber Radio Tray
7. Mugen Front CVD
8. RB X12T 5 port engine
9. RB Exhaust Header
10. RB X12 Pipe
11. JR DZ8450 Digital Steering Servo
12. JR Z250 Standard Throttle Servo
13. Airtronic M8 Radio and Receiver
14. Penguin Carbon Fiber Front and Rear Shock Tower
15. Penguin Carbon Fiber Front Bumper plate
16. Mugen Aluminum Side Brace
17. Penguin Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Brace
18. All Kose Aluminum Pulley
19. Mugen Front Light Blue Springs with 2 holes piston/60wt oil
20. Mugen Purple Rear Springs with 2 holes piston/60wt oil.

That's about it! I will try to shoot some pictures and post it up here! hang tight guys!

broughamlover

01-15-2002, 09:06 PM

hey ah10 have you heard anything on the kawahara 2 speed?

raffaelli

01-15-2002, 09:51 PM

ah10, do you have a link for the 5 star?

big2wons

01-15-2002, 10:49 PM

The kawahara 2 speed is suppose to be much better than the mugen's... I've heard that Mugen's own drivers use it but don't advertise that they do... Mugen's two speed does not properly mesh the gears. That's why kawahara provides it's own shaft.

It is a clutch based system and apparently solves the gear mesh problem

To rival Ah10's mtx, this is one that i'm building for racing season:

1. Z speed aluminum radio tray
2. Kawahara front one way
3. Kawahara Centax clutch
4. Kawahara solid rear axle
5. RB X12T 5 port engine
6. RB polished exhaust header
7. RB polished X12 Pipe
8. Kawahara 2 Speed
9. Penguin Carbon Fiber Front and Rear Shock Tower
10. HITEC 9450 Steering Servo
11. Futaba 9404 Throttle Servo
12. Penguin Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Brace
13. Futaba PDF Tx/Rx
14. Penguin Carbon Fiber Side Brace
16. Penguin Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Brace
17. Kawahara Anti Roll Bar with Mount
18. Kawahara Aluminum Pullies
19. Mugen Rear Anti-roll bar
20. Mugen Wide Bumper
21. GPM Delrin arms and knuckles
22. Light Blue Springs in front with 70wt oil.
23. Light Blue Springs in front with 50wt oil.
24. Blue, rubber sealed bearings
25. Kawahara Belt Tensioners (side and front)
26. Kawahara steel, vented disc brakes

big2wons

01-15-2002, 11:02 PM

Has anyone heard of an updated mugen mtx. it keeps popping up on every bulletin board i've been on?

Ah10

01-17-2002, 01:02 AM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by big2wons
The kawahara 2 speed is suppose to be much better than the mugen's... I've heard that Mugen's own drivers use it but don't advertise that they do... Mugen's two speed does not properly mesh the gears. That's why kawahara provides it's own shaft.

I have Kawahara 2 speed, it is much smoother than the Mugen one especially when it shifts on short stright or when it shifts on those S-Curve, I like it alot! but just need some time to set it up correctly and shift points too!

I think the Mugen one will serve the purpose correctly and it works good too but just not as smooth as Kawahara one and it doesnt last as long as Kawahara too!

It is a clutch based system and apparently solves the gear mesh problem

To rival Ah10's mtx, this is one that i'm building for racing season:

1. Z speed aluminum radio tray I had this before, like it alot too but the only problem is the front where you mount the upper bumper plate(the piece that hold 2 body posts), since it is reset like 1/4" so the bumper plate doesnt fit perfectly.
2. Kawahara front one way
3. Kawahara Centax clutch I didnt know Kawahara makes a Centex Clutch for MTX2, I have been using Mugen MRX2 Centex Clutch and it works great!
4. Kawahara solid rear axle I am planning to get this mod too!:D
5. RB X12T 5 port engine That's what I have, oh man this thing screams and it got so much bottom end! punch out of corner is unbelievable!
6. RB polished exhaust header
7. RB polished X12 Pipe
8. Kawahara 2 Speed
9. Penguin Carbon Fiber Front and Rear Shock Tower Rear shock tower is very nice but the front one is not so good! fitment on both front shocks, if you use the screws they provided your shocks will rub both dog bones! you need longer screws for the shocks.
10. HITEC 9450 Steering Servo Is it digital? suggest you to get digital servo for steering, it makes a big differences! for real! especially the holding power!
11. Futaba 9404 Throttle Servo Standard servo for Throttle is good enough, you dont need digital for throttle, it drains your receiver pack!
12. Penguin Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Brace If you are using rear sway bar you need to file the slot a little bit to make sure sway bar can move freely once you have tighten all the screws down!
13. Futaba PDF Tx/Rx
14. Penguin Carbon Fiber Side Brace I would get the Mugen aluminum brace, besides Penguin side brace comes with radio tray and I like 5 Star radio tray much better than Penguin one.
16. Penguin Carbon Fiber Rear Bulkhead Brace
17. Kawahara Anti Roll Bar with Mount
18. Kawahara Aluminum Pullies
19. Mugen Rear Anti-roll bar
20. Mugen Wide Bumper
21. GPM Delrin arms and knuckles Dont get GPM stuff, they dont fit good.
22. Light Blue Springs in front with 70wt oil. use 2 holes piston especially when you are using heavy wt oil.
23. Light Blue Springs in front with 50wt oil.
24. Blue, rubber sealed bearings
25. Kawahara Belt Tensioners (side and front) Side is a must but front isnt necessary!
26. Kawahara steel, vented disc brakes I like carbon fiber brake disc better, less fade, have more in between braking, kind of like on the steel one it's either grab or not, but carbon fiber one has kind of in between thing if you know what I mean! [QUOTE]

Wish you luck with your project!

big2wons

01-18-2002, 11:47 PM

God, u do know this car, don't you ;)
I have an mtx already (mostly stock though), but i didn't have that problem with zspeed radio tray... i had trouble with the stock roll bar, but not with the upper bumper.

The steering servo is digital, and agree with you about the throttle, but i have that futaba one lying around with no car to put it in, so i figured, what the hell.

i've been using mugen's centax as well. It's fine, it's incredible how much of a difference it makes. I'll let you know how kawahara's works. it will probably work great.. they engineer their products well.

I was thinking about hardcore racing's titanium chassis as well but can't find any feedback on it anywhere. i'm not so sure it's worth $140... I don't know if you know, but powerline out here in NYC makes titanium screws... i'm getting those... breaking a screw sucks... i think i just might try the gpm arms as well. i've had a lot of problems with arms and knuckles breaking. the wide bumper will help, but i hate having to go to my LHS for parts and not hopups.

what are 2 hole pistons? never heard of those?

where are you getting your five star stuff. haven't seen it anywhere. everybody in my area carries penguin carbon stuff. Thanks for your feedback and I really, really like your car....

:D

Ah10

01-19-2002, 12:09 AM

Originally posted by big2wons
God, u do know this car, don't you ;)
I have an mtx already (mostly stock though), but i didn't have that problem with zspeed radio tray... i had trouble with the stock roll bar, but not with the upper bumper.

The steering servo is digital, and agree with you about the throttle, but i have that futaba one lying around with no car to put it in, so i figured, what the hell.

i've been using mugen's centax as well. It's fine, it's incredible how much of a difference it makes. I'll let you know how kawahara's works. it will probably work great.. they engineer their products well.

I was thinking about hardcore racing's titanium chassis as well but can't find any feedback on it anywhere. i'm not so sure it's worth $140... I don't know if you know, but powerline out here in NYC makes titanium screws... i'm getting those... breaking a screw sucks... i think i just might try the gpm arms as well. i've had a lot of problems with arms and knuckles breaking. the wide bumper will help, but i hate having to go to my LHS for parts and not hopups.

what are 2 hole pistons? never heard of those?

where are you getting your five star stuff. haven't seen it anywhere. everybody in my area carries penguin carbon stuff. Thanks for your feedback and I really, really like your car....

:D

Thanks for your compliments!

With 2 digital servos, it will drain your battery fast!

I am using Kawahara Chassis, like it alot because it has a groove cut out on the chassis for the front belt,(I had Z-speed chassis too but my experience is the belt will rubbed on the chassis, at least that's what happened to my chassis). I dont think I would try Titanium chassis because I dont think I have the need for it! in fact stock chassis is strong enough. Besides, one Titanium chassis almost equal 3 Z-speed chassis or 2 1/2 Kawahara chassis.

I have never break any parts at the front end, upper or lower A-arm, upright nor knuckle so I cant give you any comments on aftermarket parts. And I dont use wide bumper, I just use the stock small bumper. One suggestion for you, you can go buy some thick piano wires and poke through the foam bumper then use those antena caps to seal both end, it will serve the purpose as a wide bumper!

2 hole piston: I am referring to the piston inside the shocks, the white round piece with hole(s) attached at the end of the shaft. If it is in stock form, front has one hold and rear shocks have 2 holes. 2 holes up front are much better, the front end kind of more alive, I was using 1 hole and I have played with different wt of shock oil but still feel dead if you know what I mean!

I got my 5 star upper deck from a LHS, I have called them but they dont have it no more and they are not going to import it too! I guess the only place you can get it is from oversea! You have any friends live there??

Ah10

02-03-2002, 11:29 PM

Had a great run today at Crystal Park! Here is my setting for today:

Front:
Camber: 2 degree
Toe out: 1 1/2 degree
Caster: 8 degree
Ride Height: 4 1/2mm
Spring: Mugen Grey(1.8)
Shock Piston: 2 holes
Shock Oil: 60wt
Front Sway Bar: Softest setting (flat)

Rear:
Camber: 2 1/2 degree
Toe In: 2 degree
Ride Height: 5 1/2mm
Spring: Mugen Light Blue(1.7)
Shock Piston: 2 holes
Shock Oil: 60wt
Rear Sway Bar: Softest setting

Tires: 26mm Ellegi 40sh front
32mm 45sh Yokomo L compound (L32H)

Engine: RB X12T 5 ports, RB exhaust manifold, X12 pipe.
Front Oneway, Rear Negative Diff, Tech mid oneway.
Shell: HPI Mercedes CLK GTR.

Man, with this set up the car handles like it's on rail, fast sweeper, tight corners, it is just perfect!

broughamlover

02-08-2002, 05:48 PM

does anyone have a problem with your diffs leaking. i've rebuilt my diffs many times thinking that it was something that i did wrong but, they still seem to leak. if anyone has this problem and has found a way to correct it please let me know.

tekrsq

02-08-2002, 06:28 PM

Originally posted by broughamlover
does anyone have a problem with your diffs leaking. i've rebuilt my diffs many times thinking that it was something that i did wrong but, they still seem to leak. if anyone has this problem and has found a way to correct it please let me know.

SLIGHTLY drill out the holes of the first side of the diff . So that the screws slide through. Does that make sense? The problem is, as you screw them through the first half of the diff, they make threads, then when it's time to tighten it against the second half, you can't because the screws are already tight in the threads of the first half. Thus leaving a "gap" in between the diff halves. Also, use some type of automotive oxygen safe sealant to seal the gasket.

Man, I hate trying to explain things in writing. It always seems confusing.

StevePond

02-08-2002, 10:36 PM

I feel yer pain brotha!

Ah10

02-27-2002, 12:55 AM

what happened to all the MTX-2er?? where are youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu?????????????????????

StevePond

02-27-2002, 09:32 AM

I'm still here. It amazes me there aren't more people chiming in that own the MTX cars. I know they sell very well.

We are just wrapping up a Super Shop feature on the MTX-2 for RC Nitro. There are two cars; one with Mugen and Penguin option parts, the other a fully decked out kawahara rig.

Ah10

02-28-2002, 12:46 AM

Originally posted by SteveP
I'm still here. It amazes me there aren't more people chiming in that own the MTX cars. I know they sell very well.

We are just wrapping up a Super Shop feature on the MTX-2 for RC Nitro. There are two cars; one with Mugen and Penguin option parts, the other a fully decked out kawahara rig.

do you have any pictures??

CAMRY17

02-28-2002, 01:04 AM

Guys,

I just got onto this thread. Cool

I know the Mugens running here in Australia win heaps.

I'm a NEO fan myself, but the mugen is quick and compedative in the Pro Spec makeup.

One question?

At the start of this thread there is a photo of a MTX with a alloy rear diff and the guy explains it acts like a solid and gear diff combinted. Ithink you guys call it the Kawahara Negative Diff

CAN ANYONE FILL MY IN ON THIS GREAT DIFF AND EXPLAIN HOW I CAN GET ONE AND HOW IT WORKS.

CHEERS :)

Ah10

02-28-2002, 01:31 AM

Originally posted by CAMRY17
Guys,

I just got onto this thread. Cool

I know the Mugens running here in Australia win heaps.

I'm a NEO fan myself, but the mugen is quick and compedative in the Pro Spec makeup.

One question?

At the start of this thread there is a photo of a MTX with a alloy rear diff and the guy explains it acts like a solid and gear diff combinted. Ithink you guys call it the Kawahara Negative Diff

CAN ANYONE FILL MY IN ON THIS GREAT DIFF AND EXPLAIN HOW I CAN GET ONE AND HOW IT WORKS.

CHEERS :)

That's my car!

Negative Diff is actually 2 in 1 combo type of deal!

I'll try my best to explain how it works! ok the diff housing has 2 compartments, the one on the right has regular diff bevel gears inside and the left housing has a shoe type clutch in there. The concept of this unit is when the rear axle is spinning slow the clutch disengage so you can have full diff action. When it spins fast enough then the clutch will engage to crab the housing of the diff then it becomes solid axle. The advantage of solid axle is much more staple on high speed since both rear tires spin at the same speed. Now when it comes to diff action I use very light weight oil in there so I can have a really smooth and loose diff action for the car so turning radius under higher speed could be smaller.

I hope that would help!

CAMRY17

02-28-2002, 05:04 PM

Thanks for the explaining about it.

I only run a gear diff in my NEO pr tourer with light weight oil.

This rear diff of your would be perfect for my style of driving.

WHERE CAN I GET ONE?

I'm in Australia so any website or contact info for where is comes from would be great.

Lastly, by the looks of your photos you seem to race hard and alot. What sort of bodies do you guys use? I looking at upgrading to the GTP style like on the Yok.

Can anyone fill me in on the advantages of this body for Pro Tourer.

Cheers:D

StevePond

03-01-2002, 07:52 AM

AH10 - I'll see if I can borrow some pics from the article.

StevePond

03-01-2002, 09:16 AM

Here's the Kawahara-equipped car. The only thing it doesn't have is the negative diff. But check out the rear body mount. :D

tekrsq

03-01-2002, 05:55 PM

Steve, I assume that rear mount is designed for a Lola style body, but do you think it'll work with a touring body?

StevePond

03-01-2002, 07:01 PM

It is for a Lola style body. It could work for a sedan body, but I don't think they generate enough rear downforce to make this type of body mount effective.

ragamuffin

03-15-2002, 04:04 PM

Although I am now racing an NTC3, I still have my MTX-2 which is in the process of being converted to an outlaw car. Hop-ups I already have are:

Penguin graphite top deck & rear bulkhead cross-brace, and upper front bumper support.
Kawahara alum. front body posts and drilled brake disk.
MRX-2 teflon brake pads (less grabby).
Mugen front and rear swaybars.
MRX-2 Centax clutch.
RB X12 pipe, trimmed MT-12 header.
Front universal dogbones.
Purple-anodized aluminum wheel hex hubs.
Mugen aluminum rear side brace.
Side belt tensioner.

Planned upgrades:

Kawahara negative diff or solid rear axle conversion.
Mugen front one-way (cheaper than Kawahara parts!)
Digital steering servo. Contrary to popular belief, as long as you run a high-rate rx pack (1000 or 1100mah), you will get good run time. I run full digitals in both of my Mugen 1/8 scales (XR buggy & MRX-3), and don't have an issue with run times.

Ah10, Kawahara does make a slightly smaller Centax flywheel. It uses the Mugen internals. When combined with the shorter finned engine mounts, it lowers the CG a little for better handling.

The engine is an RTO MT-12, but has since been transferred over to the AE, as has the electronics (servos, receiver & rx battery). I plan to try either an RB or a Picco .12 5-port but am curious as to how the racing rules are viewing such engines, esp. with everyone buying one now. I also want to make a 'floating' rear body mount for my Kawahara Lola body.

StevePond

03-15-2002, 06:02 PM

Rag - those engines will be illegal until ROAR sees its way to creating an outlaw class.

StevePond

03-19-2002, 09:26 AM

BTW - Novarossi just came out with a five port .12 engine also.

ketchup318

03-21-2002, 12:29 AM

hi all,
i've had my mugen mtx prospec for a while and i love it. I have problems tuning it though, i guess due to lack of experience. First of all, with the MT 12 engine, people say that my car should go pretty fast, but to the contrary, it's pretty sluggish. I've broken it in, and leaned it out. I was happy at the speed i was running at, at first, but then at the track, i've noticed that was holding people back! I've leaned it out to as much as i would want (215F). What gear ratios you all use?
My next problem is that i fishtail during all the turns, though I admit it's experience, I've had other people drive my car too. They say it's the setup. Any hints here?
Last problem... after I fishtail, and floor it, my car is very sluggish to start back up. What could be causing this? It generally doens't happen when I accelerate from stop?
And the track conditions are pretty good when I race (at crystal park). :confused:

Thanks a lot.

CHUCKMANDO

03-26-2002, 06:47 AM

I will be picking up the new mtx2 prospec before th week is done. This will be my first nitro. I have been riding elect for awhile. Any tips out there on building. I that heard the clutch is difficult to get right. I was looking into the ntc3. I heard although faster it was not as durable as the mugen. Any thoughts on that
Thanks

Ah10

04-03-2002, 01:45 AM

Originally posted by ketchup318
hi all,
i've had my mugen mtx prospec for a while and i love it. I have problems tuning it though, i guess due to lack of experience. First of all, with the MT 12 engine, people say that my car should go pretty fast, but to the contrary, it's pretty sluggish. I've broken it in, and leaned it out. I was happy at the speed i was running at, at first, but then at the track, i've noticed that was holding people back! I've leaned it out to as much as i would want (215F). What gear ratios you all use?
My next problem is that i fishtail during all the turns, though I admit it's experience, I've had other people drive my car too. They say it's the setup. Any hints here?
Last problem... after I fishtail, and floor it, my car is very sluggish to start back up. What could be causing this? It generally doens't happen when I accelerate from stop?
And the track conditions are pretty good when I race (at crystal park). :confused:

Thanks a lot.

I think we have solved most of the problem you mentioned last Sunday right! Just need to spend a little more time to fine tune the suspension and engine and that will do it!

jason102276

04-05-2002, 08:57 AM

ah10 what kind of oil are you filling your diffs with i was thinking of using shock oil like 100wt front and 30wt in rear i run on a very tight track with lots of hard turns where the one way is out of the question because i must use the brakes now i have 30000 in front and 3000 in rear and it works good that is why im hesitant to try anything maybe 10000 in front 1000 in rear its a lot of work to experiment with car handles great but could it be better i wonder

Ah10

04-05-2002, 11:41 AM

Originally posted by jason102276
ah10 what kind of oil are you filling your diffs with i was thinking of using shock oil like 100wt front and 30wt in rear i run on a very tight track with lots of hard turns where the one way is out of the question because i must use the brakes now i have 30000 in front and 3000 in rear and it works good that is why im hesitant to try anything maybe 10000 in front 1000 in rear its a lot of work to experiment with car handles great but could it be better i wonder

I am using front oneway and Kawahara Negative Diff. Inside the diff I am using Racer's Choice Hyspin Lube. It is a high temperture light weight lube kind of like those antiwear lube on the bevel gears. I have notice if you use regular diff oil those bevel gear will wear out! in fact it had happened to me before.

On a small track with tons of turns and short straights, it is ver hard to set up the car right! I would suggest you to get the negative diff because it really does work! I am not sure if you know what a negative diff is but anywhere here is a simple explaination on the diff.

Negative Diff: it has regular bevel diff gear on one side of the housing and a set of shoe clutch on the other side. When the large pulley spins fast enough then the shoe will expand to grab the housing and it will become a solid axle. And when the speed drops then the clutch will disengage and you will have full diff action.

So the ideal combination is to use very light weight oil or lube inside the diff so you will have a very smooth diff action since once it spins fast enough then it will become solid axle, you will have very explosive accelation and stable on short straight or long straight!

Hope this will help!

somedude2187

04-06-2002, 03:14 PM

Hey Steve can you give me some info on the rear body mount. In the article it says it's not avaiable yet, so when will it be avaiable?

jason102276

04-06-2002, 11:59 PM

ah10 what type of track are you running on after tonights race im not going to change anything i was perfect the car what handling perfect but i made a mistake and tagged the board and it was only in the 40s so the upright broke my setup is 60wt oil front and rear copper tc3 springs on front with the gold ones on the rear front and rear swaybars 45 front tires 42 rears 30000 front oil and 3000 rear anyone looking for a setup might want to try this is handles perfect if i hadnt broke i would have crushed if i could get my ntc3 to handle this well it would be unbeatable but it doesnt handle anywhere near as good as my mtx-2 hope someone gets some use of the setup i know it works for me mugens new fast tires are awesome

us_matrix

05-08-2002, 01:19 PM

Hi,

Anyone know who has the best price for MTX-2 Pro spec? The lowest i can found so far is $485.99 from SPEEDTECH.

Lil-Boy

05-08-2002, 02:12 PM

Well you can check out ultimate hobbies they list if for 480. Also you can check out RC Pro Shop the have it with no engine for 360. They carry it with engine but do not have it in stock. This have been shown for over a week. Then there is Ace Hardware Hobbies that have it for 450 with engine. Here are some links hope they help.

Ultimate Hobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/catalog.cgi)

RC Pro Shop (http://rcproshop.tripod.com/rcproshop/id18.html)

Ace Hardware Hobbies (http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Mugen/Mtx2/)

Good Luck and have fun with this car.
Juan

somedude2187

05-08-2002, 06:35 PM

no none of thoes places have it for less try

http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/index-e.html

they have the mugen mtx2 pro w/ engine for 418, but there in japan

Race4ever

05-21-2002, 06:13 PM

Where can I get the sheet that tells how to set the pillow balls and the up and downs stops? Does anyone have a good set up for a short road course, 90' straight and mostly 180 turns? Also where can I get a negative diff?

Ah10

05-23-2002, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by jason102276
ah10 what type of track are you running on after tonights race im not going to change anything i was perfect the car what handling perfect but i made a mistake and tagged the board and it was only in the 40s so the upright broke my setup is 60wt oil front and rear copper tc3 springs on front with the gold ones on the rear front and rear swaybars 45 front tires 42 rears 30000 front oil and 3000 rear anyone looking for a setup might want to try this is handles perfect if i hadnt broke i would have crushed if i could get my ntc3 to handle this well it would be unbeatable but it doesnt handle anywhere near as good as my mtx-2 hope someone gets some use of the setup i know it works for me mugens new fast tires are awesome

This is my current setting and I love it!
Track: Crystal Park Raceway

Front: White Spring with 60wt oil 2 holes piston lowest mount. 0 degree toe, 2 degree camber, 8 degrees caster

Rear: Light blue spring with 60wt oil 2 holes piston lowest mount 1.5 degree toe in, 3 degree camber

Tires: Ellegi 40sh front 26mm, Yok 32mm Multiring 45 sh

Front and rear sway bar with softest setting

Ride height: front 4mm, rear 5mm

Front and mid oneway, neg diff

Rb X12T 5 port engine, mugen centex clutch.

That's about it!

with 45sh rear tire it gives me really shart initial turn in and yet still enough rear traction to carry the sweeper at WOT

broughamlover

05-24-2002, 11:18 AM

ah10,

you ever come over to www.sgrid.com alot of real good guys hang out there. alot of them race at crystal park.

tekrsq

05-24-2002, 04:52 PM

AH10, you have got to get me one of those mid one-ways !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried to get one from Anthony (Manticore), but I guess he forgot about me. Can you help me out ?!?!??!?!?!?!?!?!?

Ah10

05-24-2002, 04:58 PM

Originally posted by tekrsq
AH10, you have got to get me one of those mid one-ways !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried to get one from Anthony (Manticore), but I guess he forgot about me. Can you help me out ?!?!??!?!?!?!?!?!?

Let me see what I can do! a friend of mine is going to HK let me see if he could pick it up for me!

Oh send me some of your contact information, like email address and phone number!

Ah10

06-02-2002, 02:06 PM

I am here! by the way, havent post pictures of my MTX2 for a long time! here it comes

Full View
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/full_view.jpg

5 Star Upper Deck Front Bulkhead View
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/5star_front_brace.jpg

Receiver Tray http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/receiver_tray.jpg

RD Inline Pipe
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/Rd_pipe.jpg

Kawahara Negative Diff
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/rear_view.jpg

Trinity Stratus Body http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/stratus_angle.jpg

momosport

06-10-2002, 02:33 PM

Greetings,

I have an MTX 2 w/ a few upgrades ( Kose pulley gears, kose roll bar, belt tensioner) I would like to go further w/ it, but i have very little $$ to spend.

Im wondering how much the Kawahara (sp) diff is and how much of an advantage it is. Also, what fuel do you run in your cars? im almost done w/ my Byrons fuel, and thinking of trying something different. Has anyone tried Sidewinder?

Also, what is a base setup for an onroad track? what springs will work best on a mugen? i have a tc3 FT car and i wonder if the springs will transfer. now im running just stock setup. At my track, we don't use foams, but the track is fairly open, but small, ive locked out 2nd gear.

any help would be appreciated.

Momo

chinalfr

06-14-2002, 02:09 PM

Hehe... I'm in luck to find this forum.:p

I'm just another proud owner of a Mugen MTX-2. Will plan to upgrade or add hops up to the car later once $ is avail.

No picture yet. But will post once available. :D

kt77

06-15-2002, 10:27 AM

ah10 which upper mounting location do you have your shocks? did changing to neg diff change your tire combo? the couple of people ive seen with it also ran the wider rear tires is that a must? ive been running 26's all the way around and i get a bad off power push and a on power slide wierd if you can help thanks.

Ah10

06-16-2002, 05:17 PM

Originally posted by kt77
ah10 which upper mounting location do you have your shocks? did changing to neg diff change your tire combo? the couple of people ive seen with it also ran the wider rear tires is that a must? ive been running 26's all the way around and i get a bad off power push and a on power slide wierd if you can help thanks.

There are lots of combination to do with your situation! let me know what your set up is and what kind tires, track condition and such! Let me try my best to help!

Wider tires gernerally give you more rear grip(not necessary traction), so it does change a lot of of the setting if you are running wider rear tires!

Ah10

06-17-2002, 02:38 PM

Hi guys, I shot some pictures of my MTX-2 again this afternoon! yes again! I hope you guys dont get bored!

I have got a few hop ups this week, so take a few pictures.

Zac Purple head
Kawahara Centex Clutch
MTO modified MT12

Here it comes

Top View
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/top view.jpg

Angle Front View
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/angle front view.jpg

Full Side View
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/full side view.jpg

Kawahara Centex Clutch
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/Kawahara centex clutch.jpg

Kawahara Centex Clutch Flywheel
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/Kawahara centex clutch flywheel.jpg

Ah10

06-17-2002, 02:39 PM

Second Part

MTO Carb
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/MTO carb.jpg

MTO Carb 2
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/MTO Carb 2.jpg

Kawahara LowCG Engine Mount
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/Kawahara lowcg engine mount .jpg

Kawahara Chassis
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/kawahara chassis.jpg

Kawahara .12 size Exhaust Manifold
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/Quarter rear.jpg

5 Star Upperdeck Front Brace
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/5star front brace.jpg

loarc

07-18-2002, 12:54 PM

ah10,
where can I get 5 start patrs?
Thanks,
Eddie

Ah10

07-18-2002, 04:34 PM

Originally posted by loarc
ah10,
where can I get 5 start patrs?
Thanks,
Eddie

I dont know if any retailer in the state carries it, but you can get it in HK

speedydave

07-18-2002, 04:56 PM

Right now I'm doing research for what my next car will be(got an XR Works buggy on the way...I like to do a LOT of research before I buy stuff)...What hopups do you guys think would be most beneficial for the Pro-Spec kit? Also, where can I get the hex head screws? Do I have to buy them individually? Thanks.

Ah10

07-18-2002, 05:16 PM

Originally posted by speedydave
Right now I'm doing research for what my next car will be(got an XR Works buggy on the way...I like to do a LOT of research before I buy stuff)...What hopups do you guys think would be most beneficial for the Pro-Spec kit? Also, where can I get the hex head screws? Do I have to buy them individually? Thanks.

I like the way you make decision! very well prepare!

First of all, the prospec comes will alot of hop ups and to give you some examples, 1) Centex Clutch. 2) Aluminum Hex Hub. 3) Novarossi RS12T engine. 4) Front Oneway. 5) Foam tires and such.

Second speaking of hop ups to the prospec, really the only thing I would strongly recommend are Carbon Fiber Upper Deck, Change those tie rods to Titinum rod so you can adjust it with just a plier. And of course Kawahara 2 speed and Negative Diff. Other then then the car is pretty much loaded with all the goodies.

Hex Head Screws, I bought them from a LHS in fact they are made by Integy and I know they comes in like a hundred each box and they have different sizes too. To be exact they are 3mm countersunk hex head screws(2.00mm hex head) comes in different sizes 3 x 5, 3 x 10, 3 x 12, 3 x 15, 3 x 20 and 3 x 25. The most popolar size that you would need are 3 x 5, 3 x 15 and 3 x 20.

Hope it helps! If you have any question you could email me and I will try my best to answer your questions!

speedydave

07-18-2002, 05:45 PM

Thanks! I've also heard that the stock pulleys don't always hold up to the power of the NovaMega engine, and that a lot of people upgrade them. I was reading the Supershop article on the MTX2 and the Aftermarket Overkill article in one of the recent RCTouring issues, and I'm not sure which kit they started out with. I don't know all the hopups the Pro-Spec kit comes with...all I know is that it's pretty much loaded out of the box, and really doesn't NEED anything to be competitive, but some stuff helps as far as durability goes. Also, the track I race at is pretty small, so I don't think a one way will be the hot ticket, but I'm not that great with onroad, so I'm not sure. I do know that they spray it with watered down rootbeer for traction before races, and we have both foam and rubber classes. It's an outdoor asphalt track. One other question...how much of a difference do you see with the Kawahara Negative diff? Thanks!

Ah10

07-18-2002, 05:53 PM

Originally posted by speedydave
Thanks! I've also heard that the stock pulleys don't always hold up to the power of the NovaMega engine, and that a lot of people upgrade them. I was reading the Supershop article on the MTX2 and the Aftermarket Overkill article in one of the recent RCTouring issues, and I'm not sure which kit they started out with. I don't know all the hopups the Pro-Spec kit comes with...all I know is that it's pretty much loaded out of the box, and really doesn't NEED anything to be competitive, but some stuff helps as far as durability goes. Also, the track I race at is pretty small, so I don't think a one way will be the hot ticket, but I'm not that great with onroad, so I'm not sure. I do know that they spray it with watered down rootbeer for traction before races, and we have both foam and rubber classes. It's an outdoor asphalt track. One other question...how much of a difference do you see with the Kawahara Negative diff? Thanks!

Small track doesnt mean you cant use front oneway, and stock pulley will do the job! I tired alum pulley but then not that good and I change it back to plastic and it works good!

the neg diff will run you around $90 but it has the best of both world in one unit, it has a clutch in there when up to speed it will become solid axle and when speed drops then it will have full diff action. I think it is great especially on small and tight track with some straight

kt77

07-19-2002, 11:12 PM

ah10 when you said to put the 2 hole piston in the front shocks did you mean the same ones that are in the back? if so do you have a part number? one last thing why didnt you like the aluminum pulleys? thanks

Ah10

07-20-2002, 02:06 AM

Originally posted by kt77
ah10 when you said to put the 2 hole piston in the front shocks did you mean the same ones that are in the back? if so do you have a part number? one last thing why didnt you like the aluminum pulleys? thanks

Yes 2 hole piston same as the rear one. I dont have part number! sorry

Aluminum pulleys will wear and once they wear then it becomes sharp and it will cut belts! besides plastic pulleys are lighter!

AmericanExpress

08-06-2002, 12:38 PM

Is it possible to have a pullstart engine in this?

Ah10

08-06-2002, 01:04 PM

Originally posted by AmericanExpress
Is it possible to have a pullstart engine in this?

No you cant, there is not enough room for the pull start unit and besides it doesnt have enough room for side exhaust!

Race4ever

08-06-2002, 01:46 PM

Ah10, I have a ? What lube do you use in your diff. Do I want thick or thin lube? Light or heavy oil?

Ah10

08-06-2002, 05:28 PM

Originally posted by Race4ever
Ah10, I have a ? What lube do you use in your diff. Do I want thick or thin lube? Light or heavy oil?

I am using Hyspin High Temp Lube, they are the best!

I would suggest to use the thinest oil or lube as possible since you have the best of both world, so you want a full diff action while you are taking turns and it will become solid axle under full throttle!

Keep in mind if you are using thin oil then all the bevel gears will have to work much harder and those sillicon oil does not have any antiwear agent in it so those bevel gears will wear! That's the reason I am using Racer's Choice Hyspin High Temp Lube!

Gravedigger

08-07-2002, 11:14 AM

Hi Guys!!

I have just started getting into nitro about 3 months ago and i bought the HPI NMT for my 1st nitro rc. but the guys here are really into on road racing and i'm thinking of getting a MTX 2 prospec pretty soon with a rb 5 port.

Ah10, you are like the master of this forum, so is there any advice for a newbie like me? I'm really afraid to screw things up since i heard so much about the instruction manuals..

also....i'm just trying to get this thread going so i know who i could depend on when i run into problems with the car. :p

kt77

08-08-2002, 10:58 PM

i noticed you tried the status body. do you like it better than the clk body? are you still using the same setup as earlier in the forum? im going back to atl next week and i want to spank them again. do you still suggest 42 sh. in front and 40 sh. 30 mm in the rear? THANKS

Ah10

08-08-2002, 11:32 PM

Originally posted by kt77
i noticed you tried the status body. do you like it better than the clk body? are you still using the same setup as earlier in the forum? im going back to atl next week and i want to spank them again. do you still suggest 42 sh. in front and 40 sh. 30 mm in the rear? THANKS

Actually I like both bodies, the CLK is illegal though! but if you are going to do club race then the CLK GTR body can get you better lap time!

I am currently running Lola body so my set up changed a bit! 30mm ellegi tires wont fit MTX2 unless you shave some of the material away on the rear hub! but Yok 32mm rear tires will fit without and modification!

Ah10

08-08-2002, 11:34 PM

Originally posted by Gravedigger
Hi Guys!!

I have just started getting into nitro about 3 months ago and i bought the HPI NMT for my 1st nitro rc. but the guys here are really into on road racing and i'm thinking of getting a MTX 2 prospec pretty soon with a rb 5 port.

Ah10, you are like the master of this forum, so is there any advice for a newbie like me? I'm really afraid to screw things up since i heard so much about the instruction manuals..

also....i'm just trying to get this thread going so i know who i could depend on when i run into problems with the car. :p

wow thank you very much for the compliments! the assembling instruction is very detail and you dont have to guess! just following the instruction and you will be fine!

kt77

08-09-2002, 10:13 AM

the only problem i had assembling the prospec was that the ins. were not real clear about putting the other collet against the flywheal(one is for the centec and one is for the reg. clutch)

Ah10

08-09-2002, 11:51 AM

Originally posted by kt77
the only problem i had assembling the prospec was that the ins. were not real clear about putting the other collet against the flywheal(one is for the centec and one is for the reg. clutch)

They both are the same collet regardless if it is for centex or regular clutch! but make sure you put a washer between the main bearing and the collet so when you tighten the nuts to secure the flywheel and it will not keep on pushing it and eventually crush the main bearing or damage it! besides you need some room in between the flywheel and the engine case when you take it apart! without any room between the engine case and the flywheel it is almost imposible to remove the flywheel from the shaft!

kt77

08-09-2002, 12:27 PM

which brand clk body do you use? my kit had 2 different colets one was longer than the other. im glad you said that about the washer though i better go fix that thanks.

Ah10

08-09-2002, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by kt77
which brand clk body do you use? my kit had 2 different colets one was longer than the other. im glad you said that about the washer though i better go fix that thanks.

If you have the prospec then use the shorter one since you probably have the centex clutch.

I used HPI CLK GTR body, better quality then the rest of the clown!

kt77

08-09-2002, 02:22 PM

not sure youll know about this one but i have a hpi/nova .12 old model. i need another piston/sleeve for it, im wondering if i can get a nova set instead of having to get the expensive hpi set

Ah10

08-09-2002, 02:40 PM

Originally posted by kt77
not sure youll know about this one but i have a hpi/nova .12 old model. i need another piston/sleeve for it, im wondering if i can get a nova set instead of having to get the expensive hpi set

did you have a pull start version? if you do then I would suggest you to get a new engine instead of going through all the hassle to rebuild it! a brand new MT12 cost around $139.99 and getting a new piston and sleeve for hpi/nova base engine will cost you around $79.99 something like that! (MT12 is a 1.15hp engine and it is very realiable!

Also here are some alternatives on engine for you!

RBX12T 5 port, Novarossi RS12T 5 port if your local club race allow these 5 port engine! but if your local club rules allow such engines then this is the way to go! I am telling you they are fast as hell! I have both, the RB seems to have a little bit more bottom end and mid range then the S5 but again my S5 is still in break in stages so after it is fully broken in then I should have a better idea!

I hope that would help!

Gravedigger

08-13-2002, 05:20 AM

Hi Ah 10,

Could you like help me decide on the serpent impulse prospec or MTX 2 prospec? Is the mugen comparable performance wise compared to the snake? I know the serpent might be expensive, but i heard that durability wise, the snake is better.

Is this true? Help....

Ah10

08-13-2002, 11:31 AM

Originally posted by Gravedigger
Hi Ah 10,

Could you like help me decide on the serpent impulse prospec or MTX 2 prospec? Is the mugen comparable performance wise compared to the snake? I know the serpent might be expensive, but i heard that durability wise, the snake is better.

Is this true? Help....

I like the Snake alot myself too, I think the design is very good, weight distribution is excellent but the only problem is parts too expensive, when you buy snake parts it comes like 1 pc of upper a-arm and can not be interchangable from left to right...... VS Mugen it comes in a parts tree which you have completed front arms and rear and the cost for the whole bag is the same as one snake arm.

Durability wise Mugen is much more durable!

jason102276

08-13-2002, 12:15 PM

if the track you plan to race on is big get a serpent the mugen doesnt have enough gear for a really large track but on a short track mugen is really good i thought about getting a serpent after nats because my mugen wasnt fast enough on that huge track but after getting home and calming down decided against it parts for serpent too expensive and sometimes hard to get they close serpent for a month during the summer

Ah10

08-13-2002, 12:28 PM

Originally posted by jason102276
if the track you plan to race on is big get a serpent the mugen doesnt have enough gear for a really large track but on a short track mugen is really good i thought about getting a serpent after nats because my mugen wasnt fast enough on that huge track but after getting home and calming down decided against it parts for serpent too expensive and sometimes hard to get they close serpent for a month during the summer

Not true at all, Mugen gearing can get you down to 4.872 final ratio and I am one of the fastest straight away guy at the track I am currently running! besides gearing there are a few more variables like your 2nd speed engaging point and of course what engine you are running!

kt77

08-13-2002, 04:40 PM

i agree with ah10, you can win with any of the better cars really you should chose the one you can get parts most readily for. its also nice to have the same thing your friends or most people at the track have so you can share info and parts. you have to be a PRO to be able to tell the minor differences in the cars.

tekrsq

08-13-2002, 10:18 PM

Ah10 is right, there are many variables to consider. HOWEVER, In my opinion, it does have gearing issues. You can get the MTX-2 down to 4.63 with a 23/42 2nd gear, but that still doesn't compare with some of the other cars. For example, an RS4 can get down to a 3.97 and an OB4 can get down to 4.01. I forget what the Impulse can get, but I remember it was lower than the MTX-2. Can you imagine having an RS4 pull away from you down the backstretch?!?! On a big enough track (250'+), it will. It'll never hang through the infield, but you get the point.

Gravedigger

08-14-2002, 01:27 AM

ok ok, now we are talking about the gears but what about the setup wise? Is the mtx2 as "tunable" as the snake?

Overall, which car should i get? Where i'm at, the LHS has parts for both cars so it's not a problem.

tekrsq

08-14-2002, 05:33 AM

Originally posted by Gravedigger
Overall, which car should i get? Where i'm at, the LHS has parts for both cars so it's not a problem.

Then it will have to be a personal preference. Both cars are equal as far as tuneability. The Impulse is (in my opinion) a little beefier, but parts are generally more expensive.

jason102276

08-14-2002, 09:18 AM

what size track are you going to run on if the track is really large spend the money on serpent if it is anything less than huge get the mtx-2 the cars are equally tunable in fact my mugen is dailed and ive only changed springs from kit setup i really like my mtx-2s but the fact of the huge track is it doesnt have enough gear i ran the largest clutch bell gear available 22 and a 43 spur and my car would stop accelerating only half way down the 275ft straight it was great coming out of the corners but top speed suffered dont get me wrong on 90% or more of the tracks it will be as fast or faster but on a really big track it runs out of gear i have heard there is a remedy by means of replacing the cars internal gears but i havent seen it done yet at nats team mugen tried to get a 24 clutch bell gear from team trinity so they could try and hang on the straight but so far as i know they dont have one for mugen yet in fact i heard trinity only had the gear made after their testing at that track

Race4ever

08-23-2002, 06:11 PM

The durability issue is won by the Mugen. The gear issue is being fixed by Mugen. Ah10 what is the proper procedure for adjusting the Kawahara 2-speed, can't seem to get it right. Either it shifts to early or to late.

Thanks, Jerry

rcpilot

08-26-2002, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by tekrsq
Ah10 is right, there are many variables to consider. HOWEVER, In my opinion, it does have gearing issues. You can get the MTX-2 down to 4.63 with a 23/42 2nd gear, but that still doesn't compare with some of the other cars. For example, an RS4 can get down to a 3.97 and an OB4 can get down to 4.01. I forget what the Impulse can get, but I remember it was lower than the MTX-2. Can you imagine having an RS4 pull away from you down the backstretch?!?! On a big enough track (250'+), it will. It'll never hang through the infield, but you get the point.

tekrq: Who makes the 23 toot 2nd pinion that you are talking about here? I would like to buy one.

tekrsq

08-27-2002, 06:35 AM

Originally posted by rcpilot

tekrq: Who makes the 23 toot 2nd pinion that you are talking about here? I would like to buy one.

Yokomo makes a 23t pinion that fits on the Mugen centax. I don't know the exact part # though.

broughamlover

08-28-2002, 08:54 PM

check this out guys, the mtx-3

http://www.mugenracing.com/whatsnew/mtx3page.html

captkirk9195

08-31-2002, 09:26 PM

Hello everyone. I'm considering getting back into RC cars (I was into electric offroad when I was a teenager at boarding school).

Anyways, that was the late 80's and things have changed.

I went to a local race tonight, and it was a bunch of fun. I had a few people recommend Mugen as being a great car, and it indeed appeared to perform well (his son won his race by 1 second or so, back and forth with another car the whole race).

I know they are racing 1/10, so I assume they have an MTX-2 (the car visually looks the same as the pics I've seen reading this forum the last hour).

The mentioned getting some new "pro" kit that had come out. I assume they probably meant the MTX-2 Pro Spec. They mentioned it had a bunch of the hop ups you normally will want once you've run the car, and therefore save some money.

Anyone having good luck with the MTX-2 Pro Spec? I'm fairly mechanically inclined, so I suspect the construction shouldn't be to bad...

Also, what's a good radio to run these days? Was considering trying out a modern version of a Futaba Magnum Junior...

Thank you,

Jason

kt77

09-01-2002, 12:47 PM

i think you will really like the prospec. alot of people try other cars (tc3;serpent;kyosho; ect.) but most come back because its more durable,parts are cheaper,parts are more readily availableand they all perform ABOUT the same. you wont be disapointed. if you can afford it step up to the 3pdf futaba its not much more and its alot better. the guys at rcca like it alot to.

kt77

09-01-2002, 12:52 PM

i noticed you used both types of rd pipe/manifold what did you think of the difference? whats the difference in the one that is roar legal and the one that isnt?

big2wons

10-30-2002, 08:30 PM

I know the mtx-3 isn't out yet, but does anyone know how plausible it is to convert the mtx-2 to the newer model.. i have two of them in virtually new condition and i don't want to give them up...

tekrsq

10-31-2002, 06:12 AM

Originally posted by big2wons
I know the mtx-3 isn't out yet, but does anyone know how plausible it is to convert the mtx-2 to the newer model.. i have two of them in virtually new condition and i don't want to give them up...

I've been told by reliable sources that are only a couple of small parts that interchange. Basically, the MTX-3 is a totally different design from the MTX-2.

big2wons

10-31-2002, 09:38 PM

I've been told by reliable sources that are only a couple of small parts that interchange. Basically, the MTX-3 is a totally different design from the MTX-2.

I called mugen today.. and you're right... the conversion would cost more then just buying the kit...

The MTX-3 is coming out Next week... Hope someone buys one quick and let's all of us know how it works..

Ah10

11-04-2002, 02:02 AM

Hi MTX-2 guys,

Finally installed the floating mount on my MTX-2, here are the pictures:

I tested this verion on my car on saturday, it works really really good! and it is much lighter then the first verion I have on my car previously.

With this floating mount I can full throttle on the whole straight away without letting go of the throttle all the way through the sweeper! and that felt really really great! he he

If you want more information email me at ah10@rctech.net

Enjoy

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating1.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating2.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating3.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating4.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating5.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating6.jpg

http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/floating7.jpg

jason102276

11-06-2002, 08:21 PM

nice i have never seen that before where did you get it

not sure it matters with mtx-3 here already

i was planning on buying a serpent 705

but now mugen is out and looking good

i wonder if special tires will have to be used they look like they are offset

Digit

11-06-2002, 08:38 PM

hi, i just recently bought an mtx-2 from another racer at crystal park,it works great,VERY fast and durable.i just upgraded from an rs4 3type ss and my mugen blows it away by a mile,anywayz,i have a problem with my belt slipping off,but i think its just because the big hole in the chassis allows little rocks in there.i covered it up and ill try it tomorrow,hey,do any of u crystal park racers know fernando(he's the dude i bought it from)

wrxboy

11-07-2002, 04:48 AM

Install a belt tensioner, a friend of mine had the same problem, after the installation of a belt tensioner, he had no more problems.

Ah10

11-07-2002, 11:28 AM

Originally posted by Digit
hi, i just recently bought an mtx-2 from another racer at crystal park,it works great,VERY fast and durable.i just upgraded from an rs4 3type ss and my mugen blows it away by a mile,anywayz,i have a problem with my belt slipping off,but i think its just because the big hole in the chassis allows little rocks in there.i covered it up and ill try it tomorrow,hey,do any of u crystal park racers know fernando(he's the dude i bought it from)

Hey dude I run at crystal park everysaturday! and I also run my 5th scale there!

Digit

11-09-2002, 07:37 PM

i think ive seen u with a 5th scale,soes it have a rally body os something? i usually go on the weekend,hope to see u there

Ah10

11-10-2002, 02:23 AM

Originally posted by Digit
i think ive seen u with a 5th scale,soes it have a rally body os something? i usually go on the weekend,hope to see u there

I am running Mecedes CLK DTM body on my 5th and a red and white lola body on the 10th

Oh i am going to KZ tomorrow morning and I might go to Crystal Park in the afternoon

llshrem80

11-17-2002, 01:19 AM

Hi everyone, i just bought a mugen mtx 2 after taking some time off from the hobby. My local hobby store doesn't carry the parts, but i still got the car anyway. I was wondering were i can get the peguin stuff and the kawahara stuff. I was wondering were you guys get them from either on the internet or by me. I live in central jersey any information would be appreciated. Also any must get stuff that would be necessary for the carry as far as upgrades. Thanx guys.

big2wons

11-17-2002, 02:22 AM

broughamlover

11-17-2002, 06:53 AM

check out these sites

www.ace-hobbies.com

www.gasrccar.com

they"ve got everything you need:D

tekrsq

11-17-2002, 08:52 AM

www.spedline-rc.com also has parts. He doesn't carry the Penguin or Kawahara parts, but he does carry his own brand of parts (as well as stock) for the car. Mike is an EXCELLENT source of info/tuning/setups for all of the Mugen cars. The website hasn't been updated in years, but get the number and call him. You won't be disappointed!!!!

rcpilot_971

11-17-2002, 12:59 PM

Originally posted by llshrem80
Hi everyone, i just bought a mugen mtx 2 after taking some time off from the hobby. My local hobby store doesn't carry the parts, but i still got the car anyway. I was wondering were i can get the peguin stuff and the kawahara stuff. I was wondering were you guys get them from either on the internet or by me. I live in central jersey any information would be appreciated. Also any must get stuff that would be necessary for the carry as far as upgrades. Thanx guys.

I am also thinking of getting one of these cars even thow my LHS dose not carry parts looks like a great car and for 399.99 is a good price it woud end up costing me more to get am AE TC3 and I hear its not that gerat of a car but my LHS stocks parts for the TC3 and HPI and some other off brand cars

Tim

jason102276

11-17-2002, 03:58 PM

nitrohouse.com carries almost every possible mugen part i have ordered from them a few times
speedtechrc.com carries alot of stuff also especially good for hopups

rcpilot_971

12-11-2002, 10:23 PM

dose any one know what is the bigest tires you can put on the front and back and what wheels do you use

Ah10

12-12-2002, 12:29 AM

Originally posted by rcpilot_971
dose any one know what is the bigest tires you can put on the front and back and what wheels do you use

I dont know the maximum size you can fit in the front, but I am currently using ellegi 26mm front and Yokomo 32mm rear tires.

rc4me2

12-17-2002, 06:15 PM

anyone own this car?

what's the diff b/t the pro spec and the regular mtx2, or the mtx2 "sports" for that matter?

and if it can be compared to the new mtx3, is the price difference really worth it, or does the prospec handle it's own w/o a prob

thanks

rc4me2

12-17-2002, 06:17 PM

also, does the pro spec include the mt12 engine and exhaust to go along?

tekrsq

12-17-2002, 06:58 PM

I believe the only difference between the "regular" MTX-2 and the "sport" edition is the addition of the body for the "sport" package. You could get either kit with or without the engine & header. I don't remember if the sport package came with a pipe or not, the original model did not.

The "prospec" kit did not include a pipe, body or tires, but did include aftermarket goodies like a front one-way diff, centax clutch, different engine mounts, aluminum wheel hubs with a 1mm spacer, front & rear sway bars, different springs, the wide bumper, and bearings for the side belt tensioner.

The prospec is still a very competitive car, and you wouldn't be disapointed with it. Compared to the MTX-3 performance wise, I can't say first hand. My MTX-3 is sitting on the shelf; unable to ru it do to bad weather. However, talking to the guys that are able to run, the MTX-3 is definetly a huge step up. The cars suspension geometry is totally different from the MTX-2 which makes it more responsive and easier to drive.

Is the MTX-3 worth the price difference? I hope so, it sounds like it. I can't wait to run mine!!!!!!

Digit

12-22-2002, 05:31 AM

i have a question, for those of you who use rear tires over 26mm, what brand are they and how much offset must they have for u to not have to cut the rear upright? also, did every1 have to cut the carrying handle so the slide carb can open all the way?

tekrsq

12-22-2002, 07:20 AM

I took the handle off mine. It's just added weight, and you can't use it with the body on anyway.

Just about any 32mm tire with 2degrees offset will work IF you have the 1mm spacer behind the hubs. I even saw someone with a 35mm tire on the rear once. It had a huge offset, but I never got a chance to ask the guy what brand of tires they were. The problem with going over 28mm tires on the rear is that you can't keep the car under 200mm wide unless you have the Kawahara narrow rear end. If you run in sanctioned events, then the car has to be 200mm or less. I run Speedline Super G 31mm (2 degree offset), or Jaco Nitro Shoes 32mm (2 degree offset) on my rears. It puts my car at 206mm. When running sanctioned events, I just change back to the 28mm tires, and readjust my rear settings slightly to compensate for the narrower tires. It puts me at exactly 200mm.

jblaze725

12-25-2002, 07:20 PM

just bought the mtx-2 pro spec its not even put together yet and i was wondering how you guys like it and if u have an y tip or suggestions or thoughts on it.

tekrsq

12-25-2002, 08:15 PM

The pro-spec is an awesome car. I'm not sure if there are any quirks to assembly, though. I have the original MTX-2 which has been converted to pro-spec specs (and a few extra goodies:D ). If I remember right, the stock set-up sheet is an excellent starting point.

jblaze725

12-29-2002, 06:00 PM

just put together most of the car this weekend only have the front shocks left to do. now just waiting for some decent weather to ride. definitely hoping the car works well.

schnitzer

02-04-2003, 03:36 AM

hmmmm

Seems like the MTX2 is losing its attention from drivers to NTC3 and Reflex. Other than Penguin, Kawahara and GRM, is there any others who make the graphite top deck and if so, where to get it cheap?

Thanks in advance!!!!

tekrsq

02-04-2003, 05:46 AM

Powerline Racing ( www.powerlineracing.com ) has a CF upper deck. As for cheap, not sure what you call cheap. They're all about the same price.

Akina'sMtx-2

02-10-2003, 03:15 AM

Pay a little more and get a Penguin one. My friend and I both bought one from Powerline since they were the cheapest on on the market, why not give it a try?:p The only thing that make it worth it is the side belt tensioner. The deck is thin, about 2mm, and the quality from it isn't very great. The price is good, include belt tensioner, screws and hardwares, a bulkle head brace that really don't do anything, and a roll bar that is most likely called a handle instead. If your on a budget, the deck will do, it does stop some flexing...

Here is a pic with the powerline deck along with everything included with it.
http://www.teamakina.com/images/GALLERY/22.jpg

Ah10

02-10-2003, 02:12 PM

Originally posted by Akina'sMtx-2
Pay a little more and get a Penguin one. My friend and I both bought one from Powerline since they were the cheapest on on the market, why not give it a try?:p The only thing that make it worth it is the side belt tensioner. The deck is thin, about 2mm, and the quality from it isn't very great. The price is good, include belt tensioner, screws and hardwares, a bulkle head brace that really don't do anything, and a roll bar that is most likely called a handle instead. If your on a budget, the deck will do, it does stop some flexing...

Here is a pic with the powerline deck along with everything included with it.
http://www.teamakina.com/images/GALLERY/22.jpg

Honestly the best upperdeck for MTX2 is the one from 5star!

llshrem80

02-10-2003, 10:36 PM

aight i need some help, i got my mugen and the body mounts in the rear arent high enough for my new body, i dont want to cut the body to make it look recockulous, i need new rear posts, i CANT FIND THEM ANYWHERE. help plez

llshrem80

02-10-2003, 10:36 PM

Akina'sMtx-2

02-11-2003, 02:44 AM

Originally posted by Ah10
Honestly the best upperdeck for MTX2 is the one from 5star!

Yea, I would of got one if they were easy to fine like penguin or kawahara. I was gonna buy the 5 star deck off of Eddie if he wanted to part out his car, but he didn't. :( I'll just stick to the Penguin one for now...:)

llshrem80, if your local hobby shop don't stock any, order them from www.speedtechrc.com , www.microrcshop.com there are a few more places, but those should be able to do.

llshrem80

02-11-2003, 12:04 PM

I have to buy the whole bumper just to get the reaer posts. the part number is mugt0404. is that the only way

Akina'sMtx-2

02-11-2003, 07:29 PM

Originally posted by llshrem80
I have to buy the whole bumper just to get the reaer posts. the part number is mugt0404. is that the only way

You can buy Hpi adjustable body post. It goes over your body post and allow you to adjust it by lowering or raising it.

schnitzer

02-16-2003, 05:50 PM

....

schnitzer

02-16-2003, 05:58 PM

a Pic of my MTX2

Im2lazy

02-22-2003, 09:13 AM

Originally posted by llshrem80
I have to buy the whole bumper just to get the reaer posts. the part number is mugt0404. is that the only way

I keep my body posts about 3 holes too long. This lets the front float more, so little run-ins don't push me around so much, and if I get a different style body, I won't have to get new body posts.

*And now, this thread will be dead for 3 weeks after this point.*

FenDer BenDers

02-28-2003, 11:07 AM

Hey,

Looking for the best screw kit for your MTX-2 ??
Want to replace those weak self tapping phillips head screws?
Looking for a good replacement for that lost or broken screw?

Then look no further

FenDer BenDer R/C
www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)

has a complete line of fastening products for your MTX-2 and other of today's best RC kits.
All made from 100% A2-70 Stainless Steel !!

want some more info
info@benderstore.com

Ah10

02-28-2003, 11:53 AM

Originally posted by FenDer BenDers
Hey,

Looking for the best screw kit for your MTX-2 ??
Want to replace those weak self tapping phillips head screws?
Looking for a good replacement for that lost or broken screw?

Then look no further

FenDer BenDer R/C
www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)

has a complete line of fastening products for your MTX-2 and other of today's best RC kits.
All made from 100% A2-70 Stainless Steel !!

want some more info
info@benderstore.com

If u have time check www.mcmaster.com they have all the screws that you need in different sizes, and shape ie: button head, cap screw, chassis screw and such. the some of them are harden too 12.9 grade!

FenDer BenDers

02-28-2003, 12:11 PM

My kits also contain 12.9 Quality Socket head Screws.

but, not everyone wants to go to the trouble to try to create a kit
I have done all the work for you, and also I use the best quality fasteners I can find, and I offer a good price !!!

please check out my site !!

FenDer BenDer

lott racer

03-03-2003, 10:00 PM

have you guys ever had problems with the one way bearing in the first gear housing? i have had problems with it and its been slipping, i got another one on the way, just curious... thanks

Akina'sMtx-2

03-24-2003, 02:05 AM

Nope, still working fine for me... How does it work now, assuming you have aready replaced it...

racerrandy

03-27-2003, 10:23 PM

I have a pretty much stock mtx-2. It has a penguin upper deck, and a rbx12 motor. The motor is new and the pipe I have is a freebie,what pipe should I get? I have a rb pipe from a 15 but the header is too large. Would that pipe work if I got the right header? the track I race on is 180x80. I have diffs f&r and will keep them. I need a setup for what I have. I will be running nitro shoes foams. I need to know springs,pistons, weight oil,diff lube f&r, castor,camber, the whole bit. Please !!! Thanks for any help!!

tekrsq

04-01-2003, 02:49 PM

I see my post got lost in the crash. Anyway:

Just about any of the RB pipes will work well with the RB engines. I used the X15 pipe for quite some time and was very happy with it. Currently on my MTX-2 I run a GTI inline pipe from Speedline. That is by far the best pipe I have ever tried. It has incredible top end with a very small loss of low end torque. It definetly made the engine come alive. I recently bought an inline .12 turbo pipe from RD Logics (at the recommendation of several VERY experienced engine builders) to run on my MTX-3. It's almost identical to the GTI pipe (and about the same price). I can't wait to try it out.

tranced

04-01-2003, 03:56 PM

you know how theres a rebound stop on the bottom of the rear arms which you can adjust ride height with...

i have the prospec with the front anti-roll, and i cant figure out how to adjust the rebound on there.. any ideas?

tekrsq

04-01-2003, 05:51 PM

Do not use the up stops to set ride height!!!! Ride height is adjusted using the shock collars. Using the up stops or droop screws to set ride height drastically limits the suspension travel which in turns makes for a VERY ill handling car. Your car should be set up so that the springs support the weight of the car AND there is enough play in the shocks to use the shock collars to adjust ride height.

To adjust the car:
1- set ride height
2- set droop (this is the movement of the suspension arms down when the chassis is lifted up)
3- set up stops (this is the movement of the suspension arms up when the chassis is pushed down) most people don't bother with these because they have to be set perfectly or the car will handle bad. It'll handle better if they are not used at all than it will if they are set incorrectly.
4- set caster, camber, toe, etc.
5- set the tweak

Remember, the sway bars and shocks have to be disconnected when setting the droop & up stops. Also, the suspension has to be free. If it binds up, then the settings will be off, not to mention the effect it'll have on handling.

tranced

04-01-2003, 07:53 PM

thanks for the info. I would have never realized what was wrong until i sucked at the track!

btw i just bought two RB 1050-5 Turbo Glow Plugs.
Are these the right type for a Novarossi RS12-TS1 (Turbo) ?

(The engine came with my prospec kit, as well as stratus body, rex pipe and header)

also one last question, can you tell me what droop means? :eek:
yea its probably a scary newb question but im pretty much lost..

i have a good understanding of mechanics and geometry so any little help or hints will get me going! Thanks!

tekrsq

04-01-2003, 08:56 PM

The #5 plugs should be ok for nitro content up to 20%, especially in the cold weather. Here's RB's suggestions for chosing the right plug.
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/faqrb/choosingrightglowplug.htm

Here's a couple of sites that help explain basic car set up. They can explain it far better than I can.
http://www.rctek.com/handling/suspension_droop.html
http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

tranced

04-02-2003, 03:12 PM

another question..
is it normal for me to have to leave the glow ignitor on the engine during the first couple tanks of break in?

im on about the 3rd tank and if i take the ignitor off the engine it'll run for about a second and then stop.

the engine is running about 150 during this time.

tekrsq

04-02-2003, 05:02 PM

Yes it's normal. You need to lean the top end about 1/8 turn. It's running too rich. You will need to adjust slightly as the engine breaks in. Also, you need to get the engine temp up to about 190-200 for the first 4-5 tanks and make sure you heat cycle the engine between tanks. Blip the throttle about 1/4 throttle to get the temp up. If the engine doesn't reach close to operating temp during break in (without leaning it too much) then the piston & sleeve will not expand and contract correctly. Thus, when you finally start to tune the engine and it reaches operating temps, the sleeve will expand more than the piston. This will result in loss of compression and power at operating temp.

tranced

04-02-2003, 05:49 PM

ahh thank you oh wise tekrsq! :D

although getting the engine upto operating temps during this break-in will be a bit hard.

i guess im gonna have to start running the car slowly inorder to reach 190-200..

btw do u have AIM or some kind of instant message program?

i hate waiting on these boards :p

tekrsq

04-02-2003, 06:39 PM

Thank you, thank you (taking a bow):D Actually, I'm still learning many things even after almost 5 years. I just happen to be fairly good at engine tuning, and like to help when I can.

I have both AIM & MSN messenger (both tekrsq), but I very seldom turn them on. I don't have access to either at work, so I'm kinda used to not using them.

My typical break in procedure for ABC engines:
1st tank- idle on starter box
2nd tank- blip just enough to change engine RPM
3rd & 4th tank- blip about 1/4 throttle (car on ground)
5th & 6th tank- blip about 1/2 throttle (short, sustained runs)
7th & 8th tank- blip about 3/4 throttle (short, sustained runs)
9th & 10 tank- using full throttle with sustained runs of 75'- 100'

You will have to adjust the high end needle slightly as the engine breaks in, but make sure it runs rich, you keep the temp up, and heat cycle between tanks. After the 10th tank, you should be able to fine tune the engine for racing conditions.