Kyosho V-One S and V-One R v1.0 [Archive]

V-OneR Racer

10-01-2001, 09:28 PM

I cannot praise this car more. Out of the box it goes very well. I had some small difficulties with it initially as it was my first pillowball car and i made a few goofs.

Last race day I put some foams on it (it is the non foam version) and set it up pretty much as per the foam setup sheet from Kyosho minus the swaybars. I cut 1 second off my fastest ever lap and 2.5 seconds off my average lap. I was pretty happy :)

It pushed a bit initally which I had to get used to, but once I changed my lines a little it was a rocket.

DsWright

10-09-2001, 05:34 PM

This was V1R who started this thread btw, when they changed formats my name got fuxxed=(

I also had some trouble with setup at first, not having used a pillowball system myself......

but one i got ahold of a Hudy board and setup tools, the guys at my track running RS4 2's got a good look at my rear bumper=)

Only problem im having now is getting ahold of parts, i have had pillowballs ordered since mid august, still haven't gotten them=(

V-OneR Racer

10-09-2001, 05:58 PM

Yes parts are harder to find than for my HPI.

Here is mine:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid27/p8d94d82ff74362ed57933ce70fdb5c8e/fe32702a.jpg

DsWright

10-09-2001, 10:25 PM

Nice looking ride=)

kyosho

10-11-2001, 07:40 PM

nice

wing

10-11-2001, 08:54 PM

Here is my VoneR...I put a cvr on it...I love this car...good handling and easy for adjustment...I used a rubber tires ..it perform very well in parking lot....so far I only change the rear and middle belt...(since MAY)most of the parts are durable.....(I play it every weekend for about 10-15 tanks of fuel)
Anyway...this is a lovely car kit....
http://www.webphix.com/rc_site/userpics/710.jpg

DsWright

10-17-2001, 03:07 AM

Funny thing i found out about durability of this car..... I broke my METAL pivotballs before my plastic suspension parts broke=)

My plastic parts don't even show signs of bending=)

Was playing around with it at the Kentucky speedway, and i hit the wall on pit row at 50+ mph. only damage? broken pivotball.

amazed the **** outta me.

V-OneR Racer

10-17-2001, 03:13 AM

This does not surprise me THAT much. I had some graphite arms for my HPI Racer 2 (similar compound to the V One arms) and I was trying to screw the ball stud ends into them. They kept shearing off rather than cutting a thread into the graphite/plastic compound. Now thats stiff. Also I have heard of some manufacturers (Slide with their 1/8th SMP) who make the pivot balls "sacrificial" so they break or snap off rather than damaging the suspension arms. Mayby Kyosho went that route??

Justo

10-19-2001, 12:57 AM

Hi guys. I am the proud owner of a brand new VoneR! I know nothing of this car. I was going to get an RS4 Racer 2, but the guy talked me out of it.

I was kinda hoping to put a pullstart engine in it. Is this possible?

kyosho

10-19-2001, 06:00 PM

No the middle belt gets in the way.

linusloo

10-23-2001, 08:49 AM

The front bumper is very weak. Anyone know of any after-market bumpers that can fit the V-One R to give more protection?

DsWright

10-23-2001, 04:08 PM

Looks to me like it's a standard foam bumper, might be able to get any of the other aftermarkets to fit.

akablingdawg

10-23-2001, 04:48 PM

here mine pick it up yesterday

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid27/p42e17d949d3f33bb72a69661cdf21871/fe2c11df.jpg

opel92

10-26-2001, 06:31 AM

Have one also........ it has been built for about 6 weeks but there are no RB Concept X12's in our country........... the wait is between 8-10 weeks:( :( :( :( :( i'm very, very sick of waiting but i really want the X12.....

Justo

11-02-2001, 12:44 AM

Hi guys.

I haven't had any experience with 2-speeds before. I want to go FAST. Can anyone recommend a gear ratio for me? I don't race.

Do I have to change both pinions and spurs?

Cheers

V-one R Finland

11-03-2001, 12:11 PM

Just yesterday received some Kfactory parts for my voner. The 2-speed shaft is 16 grams lighter than stock. I did also order the middle shatf but did not get it. I also got the front universals and they seem to be good too and the alu motormount looks great, but is few grams heavier than stock. Only have to wait until the winter is over......... and it only takes 6 months :(

Oh, and you do have to change both pinion and spur to alter the ratio.

Justo

11-04-2001, 01:38 PM

But is that BOTH pinions and Both spurs at the same time? Can I just change, say, the second gear ratio by getting only a new pinion/spur for THAT gear?

Also, need some suggestions for more speed...

V-one R Finland

11-05-2001, 06:09 AM

I let someone who has done that to tell, so I don't mislead you.

V-one R Finland

11-05-2001, 06:13 AM

Here is a setup sheet as an example how someone has altered the ratio.http://www.reckward.de/download/VOR1.zip

Poolboy51

12-21-2001, 05:55 PM

Hey! Post your thoughts and expiriences with the Kyosho V1R nad V1S! I'm might get one if their THAT GOOD!:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :D

StevePond

12-21-2001, 06:58 PM

Good forum. I Think both are excellent cars, though I must admit, I'm partial to the V-One-R.

OrcSlayer

12-21-2001, 07:06 PM

Can you tell me the difference between the two? I have seen Tower's explanation and I can't make heads or tails of it. I almost bought one of these, but got an HPI Nitro RS4 2 instead. I think maybe I should have gone for the Kyosho instead, but since I'm not racing, it doesn't matter.

Poolboy51

12-21-2001, 11:47 PM

I know that their using the V-one S in the Kyosho World cup. The V-One-S inclueds an engine, while the V-one R doesn't. they're probably a lot more differences that I can't think of right now.
Check out Kyosho's website: Kyosho (http://www.Kyosho.com) Does anyone know when RCCA tested the V-one R and V-one S? Also, does anyone know whether the Kyosho World Cup will be near Seattle or a regional or an HPI Challenge race will be around Seattle? And, would you recomend a V-one S over an RS42? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Poolboy51

12-22-2001, 01:19 AM

Hey, I just heard that the Trinity Reflex NT is basically a hopped up Kyosho V-One R. Is this true, I'd just get the American-made car with wider parts and service availibility.

OrcSlayer

12-22-2001, 10:32 PM

Thank You. If your asking me if I recommend the Kyosho over the HPI, I'm not really in a position to answer. From what I've read, the Kyosho is a very nice competition touring car, while the HPI, being a four year old design, really can't compare performance wise. This isn't a first hand experience and all I can say personally is that I got the HPI with the intent of driving around for fun in a nearby parking lot I am perfectly satisfied with it for my uses. I'm sure most people will say to get the Kyosho though, especially if you want to race.

One more thing, even HPI openly (for a manufacturer) admits that the Nitro RS4 Racer 2 is not really a competition car, at least as much as cars like the V1r and S and the Nitro TC3 are. Yes, you can bring a RS4 up to par, but compared with starting out with a race bred design, it will end up costing a ton. There's some nice RS4s in the RS4 forum.

Poolboy51

12-22-2001, 11:47 PM

Yeah. I went to the HPI challenge in Tacoma w/ my super nitro (3RD to last, D main;) I wish they had a stock Super Nitro RS4 class) and people there had 1hp+ engines w/ all aluminum and graphite and ball difs, etc. My LHS, Redmond Hobbies (http://www.redmondhobbies.com)
is big in HPI but I saw some MP 7.5 's and a QRC Baja Beetle you I may be able to get parts through my LHS or I could just order them through Tower Hobbies (Right??)I also spotted a V1R:p ;) :D :cool: :)

PCC

12-27-2001, 12:15 PM

The V-One S is a 'sport' type of RC car. The V-One R is their racer. The R has a centered fuel tank, battery, and steering servo. They made attempts at lowering the center of gravity on this car. It is a world class racing 1/10 touring car. The S is more of an entry-level TC. The fuel tank is not centered, nor is the battery nor the steerign servo. They didn't really make any attempts at lowering the COG like they did with the R, and this car comes without a two-speed. The optional two-speed is the inferior finger-type as opposed to the two-shoe standard two-speed on the R.

As for the Racer 2 and how it compares to the V-One S, it doesn't, really. I don't own a V-One S, but I do own a Racer 2 and a V-One R GRP. The Racer 2 is an old design that came out when the most powerful engine available was about 1HP. Try putting a more powerful engine into it and the drivetrain wears out really fast. This is from personal experience running a ported 15CV Hyper. The rear belt snaps in two (brand new, just installed, properly tensioned, second pass), the front belt isn't that much better, the two-speed, even their 'HD' one, will break on a regular basis, the two-speed requires that you get the side brace or else the two-speed shaft snaps in two (from the power of my 12CVR) on a regular basis, the 'HD' outdrives will either snap in two or wear a deep groove in them really fast (they seem to me to be chrome plated standard outdrives that they charge double for), the diff bevel gears seem to be made of potmetal and they wear out fast even with a 12CV (and we don't do donuts!), and the list continues.

My brother has a modified Picco 15 rear exhaust engine in his V-One R and the only problem he has with his car is getting a gearing combination to work with this engine. This car is FAST!!! He hasn't had any power-related driveline problems with the car, yet (his driving could use some improvement, though!).

Poolboy51

12-27-2001, 08:19 PM

OH. I was just gonna be a cheap ***** and get a V1S but if the V1R has a better DESIGN, then all just wate a few months and save up for the V1R. Do you think a OS CV-R slide carb would be good?:D

Ethan2k

12-28-2001, 06:36 AM

Just finished building my new V One S!!!

Im still running the engine in, nearly done one litre.

2 Speed tranny the next hop-up? Are there any 3rd party manufacturers that make a better 2 speed tranny than Kyosho does?

Hmm.. wonder if there is a carbon fibre upper deck for it as well?

Will the CVEC tuned pipe fit on my car?

What type of wheels do you use? The slicks that come stock are nearly worn out!

Sorry for the amount of questions as im a newbie in Nitro RC!!!

Cheers!

PCC

12-28-2001, 11:33 AM

Poolboy, the CVR is a great engine. I have one in my car, mildly ported. The problem with this engine is that where I race I get blown away badly by guys running MT12's pushing 350 degrees or X12's pushing 300. The CVR can't compete in this type of environment. I'll keep the CVR for sanctioned events but I'll be getting an X12 5 port for where I normally run.

Ethan, Kyosho is the only one that makes a two-speed for that car as far as I know. You might be able to adapt a different manufacturer's two-speed to the car if you have a machine shop (or a really good lathe) but that's a lot more trouble than it's worth.

If I were you I would get the two-speed first then worry about the eye-candy hop-ups. The two-speed will make the car faster while most of the other hop-ups make the car stiffer and/or prettier.

Kyosho makes a graphite upper deck for that car.

Tires are a personal preference.

Poolboy51

12-28-2001, 10:17 PM

Kyosho claims 50-55mph w/ the CV-R. How fast so the cars @ your track go with MT12'S,etc.?:D

PCC

12-30-2001, 10:35 PM

Let's just say that it's a fairly good sized oval but it's too short for the car to wind out in second. The most speed we've seen is probably around 35MPH. With my V-One R GRP I can power through the turns but those guys catch and pass me by the next turn.

Skribble

12-30-2001, 10:36 PM

Serpent Impulse goes 51 MPH with a one speed. ;) Right now I have a XXX-T which I'm selling to either get a KE XXX or a nitro street car. Nitro street car I would mainly use to mess around and race sometimes but the buggy I would race all the time.

Had a Nitro 4-TEC but it broke. Wish it didn't. :( Now I want a nitro street car again. :(

What would you pick: Buggy or Street Car? I just want a fast street car and I would pick either the V-One R or a Impulse if I go the car, maybe a electric street car.

Poolboy51

12-31-2001, 04:27 AM

Go for the street car!:D

winning edge designs

12-31-2001, 10:32 PM

Hey V one R(S) fans.......I raced mine once so far,with a TQ and Win,it is an awesome car! I'm using the new O.S. 12-TR,the thing rips and it's still set conservative. In fact sometimes it won't grab second when it loads up,haha,people still keep asking me what engine and saying how fast it is.......I'm going to run it again at Superior hobbies in Casselberry fl,but i'll lean on it a tiny bit,not to much and see what it's really got!

Anyone tried other set-ups yet. Mine is the GRP with stock set-up,but using a TeamLosi droop gauge I'm running 4 front and 2 rear,since the manual didn't say. Also Treadz Foams,45 front and 42 rear,sedan front tower 2nd hole out from the inside..................Jim

Swede

01-05-2002, 05:36 PM

Since I am living in Sweden (fantastic social security and free healthcare for everyone but the taxes are killing us) my RC car hobby is costing me a lot of hard earned money ( the V-One S costs approx. 350 USD over here). I will be going to Hong Kong shortly and have saved up enough to go on an extended RC shopping spree.

I am thinking of upgrading my V-One S with an OS .12 CV-R engine (also buying one for my Kyosho Inferno TR-15) and I have some questions:

- Is the .12 CV-R overkill for the V-One S and would I be better off with something else?

- What else on my car do I need to upgrade when buying the .12 CV-R? (brake disk, drive belts, exhaust pipe, investing in a 2 speed tranny etc)

- Will a slide carb cause any problems when rearranging my linkages and throttle rod?

- What else should I be aware of?

/ Swede

Poolboy51

01-05-2002, 07:37 PM

I don't think the CV-R would be overkill, but the other stuff, I have no idea!:D

deathlok

01-24-2002, 04:28 PM

for v-one r and v-one s owners only

the silicone fluid is always get out of diffs after few runs anybody knows how to keep them inside.(i have change gasket but the same:( )

winning edge designs

01-24-2002, 09:52 PM

deathlok,try cleaning the parts really well with electric motor cleaner,or similar. Then use a bead of silicone on each side of the gasket. Reassemble and try to tighten all the screws evenly if possible. Alot of these problems come from a twisted case not tightened evenly,or a torn gasket........Jim

deathlok

01-25-2002, 05:42 PM

thanks a lot i will try it!

StevePond

02-22-2002, 08:04 AM

Bumping this one up for Horse!

Horse

02-25-2002, 11:16 AM

Thanks SteveP,

I think I must be blind or something...

Guys out there, anyone has set-up recommendations for a V-One S? I saw a .pdf setup file which was not in English, but if anyone has some good ideas, do let me know - am a newbie to all things nitro & this is my first car. Currently breaking it in...

BTW, I found this site which you may have already come across, it goes into a lot of detail about understanding car dynamics, but no easy solution to setting up a V-One S.

http://gallery.uunet.be/heremanss/

Finally, I was thinking of cutting a hole in the body for the engine and enlarging the left window for easy starting up of the engine & pull start. Can someone comment as to whether it is a good idea.

winning edge designs

02-25-2002, 09:29 PM

horse,you'll want the latrgest "holes" your track will allow,while trying to maintain body integrity. If you weaken the body too much it won't last long at all.
For set-ups,on my V one R, I'm running black springs all around,50wt oil front and 45 rear,with kit recommended pistons. I'm also running the lower hole in the rear hubs,-1.5 degrees camber front and -1 rear,with zero toe front and 2 per side in the rear. Shocks in stock locations with sedan ft tower(higher mounting locations,more steering reaction). i'm also running the sway bar kits,with medium bars mounted up. for tires i'm running treadz foam,42 ft and 37 rear shore......hope this helps,Jim

daforce007

02-26-2002, 12:52 AM

gotta question, whats the difference b/t the V1R, V1RR, and the V1R GRP

Horse

02-26-2002, 03:05 AM

Jim,

Thanks for your advice. Will see what I can do with getting easiier access to the engine without having the remove the body all the time.

I think that I can emulate some of your set ups, but I don't have sway bars, different shock oils with the V1S. Need to buy these separately, but only once I get used to the car...

Any advice for set ups particular to the V1S?

evild

02-26-2002, 11:01 AM

Hey everyone!

Check out http://www.evild.com/vones/ for my weblog as I put together a Kyosho V-One S. I'll be entering this car in a Regional Kyosho World Cup competition.

Feel free to e-mail me any suggestions or helpful hints you may have.

Thanks!

Dennis

winning edge designs

02-26-2002, 09:55 PM

daforce007,the main difference is the drivetrain layout. The V one S is designed to allow for a pullstart engine,the V one R is not. They moved the belt to the opposite side and centered the fuel tank on the V one R,also using a longer belt for the middle and moving the needed parts along with the belt. The suspension and overall wieght of the two cars is almost exaclty the same. the GRP version is the one I have,it included a full set of Kyosho Foam tires,a front one-way,sway bars and two ft shock towers. As well as some set-up sheets from the kyosho team drivers........Jim

evild

03-02-2002, 09:42 PM

Has anyone had problems installing the 2-speed tranny on the V-One S?

All the parts are there but the 43T gear looks just a bit different. Usually the diagrams match the parts exactly. It is strange that the part doesn't quite match the drawing.

In step 4 there is a side window that shows the "nut" going into the gear and turning to the right to "Lock" it. Mine already came installed/locked.

It also shows that the "nut" is flush with hole it is inserted into. Mine isn't like that. There is even another collar around it that is not shown in the diagram and it is flush with that.

Also, if I were to put the 2 washers on (parts 12 & 15) they cover up a 1/4 of the small hole on part 16 and I can't insert the pin (part 17). If I remove the washers I am able to insert the pin and the small gear. My problem then is the parts don't all fit on the shaft far enough to allow for the C-Clip. The last gear completely covers up the slot.

I've uninstalled everything and started over from the beginning, twice. It's really not supposed to be that complicated.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Evil D

Check out the rest of this in the Nitro Forum: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74038

3434

03-03-2002, 01:49 AM

evild check your other post

Horse

03-03-2002, 08:24 PM

Hi Guys,

Question: what are the top 3 hop ups for greater speed & the top 3 hop ups for greater stability?

The only thing I can think of for speed is 2 speed transmission & a new engine...

What about stability?

winning edge designs

03-03-2002, 08:36 PM

horse,I felt a big improvement using the sway bars and front one way on my V1R GRP vs. my diff up front and no bars. Not only will a 2 speed help you if you have a single now,but you can also change the gearing with the two speed as well...I also went to the K Factory chassis and upper deck kits. I have the front universals and left side tensioner/brace assembly on the way.....I think the K Factory parts helped with stability and lap times,so they are a great hop-up!........Jim

Horse

03-03-2002, 08:56 PM

Winning Edge,

Thanks for sharing. I think I should check out these K Factory hop ups that you mentioned.

My shopping list now consists of the 2 Speed & sway bars.

Horse

03-03-2002, 09:03 PM

Winning Edge,

Thanks for sharing. I think I should check out these K Factory hop ups that you mentioned.

My shopping list now consists of the 2 Speed & sway bars.

Horse

03-20-2002, 03:07 AM

I have recently started to run my V One S with the GS15R engine. Initially, it was very easy to start up with only a few pulls on the pull start.

However, lately I have had a lot of difficulty getting the engine to start up despite many tries. I have checked all the usual suspects, including glow plug, glow plug heater, not enough fuel to the carb etc, but to no avail.

I realized also that the engine occassionally does not even heat up despite the glow plug heater being placed on the engine when I tried pulling the starter. I have recently started to run my V One S with the GS15R engine. Initially, it was very easy to start up with only a few pulls on the pull start.

However, lately I have had a lot of difficulty getting the engine to start up despite many tries. I have checked all the usual suspects, including glow plug, glow plug heater, not enough fuel to the carb etc, but to no avail.

I realized also that the engine occassionally does not even heat up despite the glow plug heater being placed on the engine when I tried pulling the starter. i realized that despite several pulls on the pull starter, there is no combustion happening in the engine, therefore the engine doesn't even fire up. so i guess one problem is that i can't get the engine to combust even though i have tried to pull start many times.

I am getting very frustrated with this damn engine because just as I am settling into a new day with my car, it dies on me, and not to recover for the rest of the day.

Sometimes I just give up, but when I try again, it works.

Checking on the engine manual, it says that changing the connecting rod or the cyliner/piston set may help to improve the situation because part may have been worn out. Tough to accept since it is still difficult to turn the flywheel anticlockwise with my fingers.

Having said that, I seem to be able to pinpoint when my troubles started - when I decided to lean out the engine quickly and I noticed 'smoke' coming out of the engine. The engine overheated then, but I stopped running it lean there and then.

I also noticed that the back of my car, around the pull starter area tends to get wet with nitro after trying hard with the starting. is there a leak as well???

Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advance!

PCC

03-21-2002, 11:45 PM

Originally posted by daforce007
gotta question, whats the difference b/t the V1R, V1RR, and the V1R GRP

Basically, there are five different V-One R variations available out there. There's the standard V-One R, Silver Label V-One R GRP (available in Asia), Gold Label V-One R GRP, V-One RR, and, from what I have heard, a V-One RR GT.

The standard V-One R was designed to be a killer 1/10 Nitro Touring Car. The Silver Label has foam tires in 26mm front and rear, front one-way, front and rear swaybars, but is otherwise the same as the standard V-One R. The Gold Label GRP is basically the same as the Silver Label but includes 30mm rear foams. This necessitated using longer rear axles and spacers because the wheels would hit the rear uprights without the extra spacing. The narrower spacing of the rear hubs meant that shorter dogbones were needed. The V-One RR takes the Gold Label GRP and adds a Centax clutch, different front body mount setup for Lola-style bodies without a foam bumper but uses a large blade-type bumper, a ball-and-socket front swaybar instead of the standard swaybar of the GRP's, the rear body mount pod that lets the body's downforce push directly down on the tires instead of the chassis and, the distinction of being the only V-One R variant to come packaged with a body, the Lola. The GT is supposed to be a V-One RR with taller rear body posts so you can mount a touring car body on the V-One RR and have the advantage of the rear pod. The RR is about as close as you can get to a 1/10 on-road as you can get with a 1/10 TC sized layout.

The rear pod is similar to the style used on 1/8 and 1/10 on-road cars in design and execution. This style of body mounting places the downforce load from the rear wing section of the body directly down onto the rear wheel hubs which allows you to tune the rear suspension softer for better traction.

In the USA, only the standard and Gold Label are available. If you have connections in Japan or Hong Kong, you can get the Silver Label and the V-One RR. The GT is not out, yet, even in Japan.

StevePond

03-22-2002, 09:57 AM

What is the GT model supposed to be?

PCC

03-23-2002, 02:17 AM

It's supposed to be a 1/10 TC using regular TC bodies but the rear of the body is mounted to a pod instead of the rear bulkhead. This allows the rear suspension to be set up softer for better traction. I don't know if this configuration will be legal in ROAR or IFMAR events. I'm thinking of making my own version of a rear pod for TC bodies but don't know if I can race with it.

evild

03-23-2002, 09:17 AM

I've recently purchased new shocks for my V-One S. Their Kyosho part number is VZ075. They are aluminum threaded and the ones listed on the official Kyosho World Cup hop-up parts list and on the side of the box.

The ball ends that come with the shocks are 4.8mm but the Pillow ball that came with the kit is 5.8mm.

I was wondering if anyone has put used the 5.8mm ball end that came with the kit or did you order the 4.8mm ball studs (long or short)?

Thanks.

Evil D
-----------
V-One S weblog - http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/

3434

03-23-2002, 06:56 PM

I'm sure I'll get blasted for this. But I didn't like them they came on my V-one -R . I had them on my V-one-S that I ran half of last season. And I sold them with that car. Just use the shock ends that come in the kit. The only problem with the stock shocks # W-5161 is if they get hit they will come apart. Once or twice and there done. I would like to run the replacement ones for them the W- 5151 or 5152 but I don't know if they will let us. They are Kyosho.

kartrun

03-27-2002, 12:31 PM

Anyone know if they make a four stroke conversion for the VoneR????:confused:

Horse

04-02-2002, 07:02 PM

Am currently am owner of a V1S.

Thinking of upgrading from stock, but not sure if I should hop up the V1S, or buy a V1R or Serpent Impulse.

Which route do you recommend?

david93073

05-29-2002, 10:34 AM

Hello everybody:) I just bought an voner/reflex hybrid w/ an os .12 tvr:confused: (rear exhuast) It was used! Anyways does any make an single speed tranny for the car? One of the local tracks is really tight and an 2speed is useless. Also can i use AE touring car springs on this car?(lhs stocks all the AE tc springs)

Flip

06-01-2002, 01:23 AM

Hey.

I am new to the forum and i own a V-One S. I plan to start racing this car within a couple weeks or so. I would like to know what width and brand of rubber tires you all use. Also, what servo's are you guys running for racing? Any idea where i can purchase the graphite upper deck for my V1S? Are there any alternative fuel tanks? Also, what header are you V1S guys using? Thanks!

Hop-ups include:
Sway bars front and rear
Paris turbo ring + MIP TC header
ZAC foams - 26mm fr and 32mm rr
All springs

http://members.aol.com/djfeelup/V1S_2.jpg

tike

06-01-2002, 10:09 AM

Hey Horse

Just got v1s and after 2 weeks I had the same probs as you i.e fuel leek and wouldn't start. Anyway after taking the car to bits, changing carb settings, blowing through bits of tubing to make sure there was no blockages and checking the glow plug I realised the heat sink was loose. Four allen bolts tightened and problem solved. Thought I'd share this in case any other beginners like me spend over 2 hours messing on for no reason.

Flip

06-02-2002, 03:49 PM

Hello again.

I remember someone asking if there was an aftermarket bumper. I don't remember if the question was answered but i found an aftermarket bumper for the V1R on SpeedTechRC.com

http://www.sslorder.com/Shop/Images/speedtechrc/imagefs-2014.jpg

Five Star 2.3mm carbon bumper mount for Kyosho V1R

Improve the strength of the front end of your V1R with the Five Star's 2.3mm carbon bumper mount. Also included are aluminum body posts.

Poolboy51

06-04-2002, 11:52 PM

Is the KWC on this year? There isnt any info at www.kyosho.com ! Does anyone know where the regional races are?

RB RUSTLER

06-11-2002, 06:21 PM

NOPE Great Plains boned us!! I was looking forward to going this year. It's no longer a World Cup because the US is not involved.

RB RUSTLER

06-11-2002, 06:26 PM

Originally posted by RB RUSTLER
NOPE Great Plains boned us!! I was looking forward to going this year. It's no longer a World Cup because the US is not involved.

Don't know how that happened? But you took the words right off my screen

3434

Hey did it again???

teamorionhk

06-16-2002, 11:58 PM

The rear middle gear of V-one-RR seems to be too small, it is of 19 teeth. If you race your V-one-RR in long straights, the engine will scream and reach top speed very soon. Furthermore it reduces engine life.

If you change it to 23 teeth in the middle rear and the rear side pulley, your V-one-RR will be flying in the straights. With better top end speed. Some of my friends changed them to 24 teeth and found the pickup was slow even after they had changed to 15/19 teeth in the clutch bell.

Whether you would like 23 or 24 teeth is a matter of your preference. However the problem is to get the right belt. The availability of belt size in your country is critical. You need to change both the rear drive and side drive belts. For 24 teeth, the rear belt is Bando 198 and for 23 teeth, the belt should be Bando 195. The side belt is easier to get because you can take up the slack with the belt tensioner.

After the gear change, the F/R reduction ratio remains unchanged.

Good Luck!:)

Diesel_0921

06-18-2002, 08:42 AM

hey, i got a question. Kawahara manufactures a "Negative Differential" part no. Z-1720. i was wondering if anyones knows anything about this product, and what it does. also i was wodering the same part no. K-415 the Mid BB Block.
thanx.

teamorionhk

06-19-2002, 02:23 AM

You wrote:"hey, i got a question. Kawahara manufactures a "Negative Differential" part no. Z-1720. i was wondering if anyones knows anything about this product, and what it does. "

This is a kind of limited slip differential. If the speed of rotation (of either side) exceeds a preset rpm, the internal clutch shoes will engage the differential housing and locks up the differential. It is useful to prevent inside wheel spin under hard acceralation out of corners. However, I found that the effect is not as good as Kyosho's limited slip differential. It relies on a special friction oil that locks up the differentials gears when a certain rpm is reached.

:)

PCC

06-19-2002, 11:57 AM

The Negative diff is a regular diff with a clutchpack added to it. The clutch engages, and locks the diff, when a certain RPM is exceeded. This happens when a wheel spins or the car's speed goes up. When building the Negative diff you need to keep in mind that the diff action will stiffen as the speed goes up so you want to set it up with a thinner diff fluid than you normally would. The advantage of the Negative diff is that at low speeds the rear diff works like a normal diff and this gives the rear more traction, especially if a thinner diff fluid is used. At higher speeds it gives the car more steering.

The Kyosho TCD diff works as a limited slip diff. It uses metal blocks and a special diff fluid that locks the diff action as the diff works. What I have heard is that the metal blocks sometimes break, making the diff work as a normal diff again. The action works much like the Negative diff.

Diesel_0921

06-19-2002, 06:41 PM

Hey,

Thanks teamorionhk and PCC. I bought a V One R about 2 months ago, and I haven't put it together yet. I have been traveling aound to get the best parts for it(it's easy when you're in the Navy!) I'm at sea right now and I can't wait to get back and put it together now!! Hong Kong and Singapore are pretty good places for parts. Hong Kong especially for Tamiya stuff, madd cheap!! This one store, Hing Kee, had the 414MII for $230 USD. Anywho, thanks for the info, again!!

teamorionhk

06-19-2002, 11:10 PM

HI Diesel:

If you are in Hong Kong, make sure that you buy two metal 24 teeth gears for the rear drive pulley and the side drive pulley and the new belts. V-ONE-RR is much quicker using this gear ratio rather than the original 19 teeth gears. You can buy the gear very cheap in here (Hong Kong). USD$7 each for the metal gears and USD$5 each for the side and rear belts. Serpent Impulse Pro is using 23 teeth to drive 46 teeth differential gear. So in Kyosho V-ONE-RR, we change it to from 19 teeth to 24 teeth gear to drive the 48 teeth differential gear. The performance is proven in our local races. Once you are in Hong Kong, you can drop me a line and I can give you the names of the shops (those shops are honest and local, and not aimed at tourist) that sells tons of V-ONE-R good and quality upgrade parts. There is one very big RC shop in YauMeiTai sells big prices to tourists :-( In Hong Kong, V-ONE-R dominates the scene for its cheap prices, tons of upgrades and good performance. Although NTC3 is a rocket compared to V-One-RR, the price of the parts and lack of options are attracting not much attention locally. Furthermore, the local wholeseller of Team Associated product is not doing a good job. Not many shop wants to stock their product.

I have used the Kyosho Limited Differential for a very long time and did not notice any problem with the gear. It is cheap here, it is only selling for USD$50. The parts are beautifully machined with good quality hardened steel.

Diesel_0921

06-23-2002, 11:03 AM

kewl, I don't know when I'll be in Hong kong kong again, but I'll definitely keep in touch!! i was lookin for a mail-order hobby shop in Hong Kong, but all I saw was Continental Models, near Jordan St. Today I went to Active Hobbies in Okinawa and got some stuff(stickers, springs, and a shock tray). Their prices are pretty reasonable. Hey, if you're ever in the Tokyo/Yokohama area get in touch with me and we'll go up to the track in Yokota, cool?
peace out

StevePond

06-24-2002, 08:39 AM

teamorionhk - I believe the standard V-One-R also uses 19t pulleys on the transmission shaft. Are your sure it's a good idea to use 23T pulleys? That's a VERY big jump in drivetrain ratio. Also, where do you get belts to accomodate the bigger pulleys? That means you need a belt that's two teeth bigger than standard.

teamorionhk

06-24-2002, 10:04 PM

23teeth is much much better than 19T. 19T is too slow. That is why you guys think that NTC3 is faster because you have not unleashed the potentials of V-ONE-RR. In Hong Kong, we use 23Teeth with 15/19 teeth pinion(clutch gears). The rear belt is from Yokomo, it is coded 198. The side belt is, I forget, it is 2xx something. They sell for $5USD per belt in Hong Kong. The top speed is awesome and I am sure you will brow everybody away. With the standard ratios, even if you are using 18/22 teeth pinion(clutch gears ), the engine revs too hard and reached top speed too soon.

Once you have changed to 23teeth, you will find an instant improvement in the rolling fiction. Furthermore, if you are serious, you can invest in telfon bearings. I upgraded my V-ONE-RR with a full set of telfon bearings and it rolls very smoothly similiar to a NTC3.

teamorionhk

06-24-2002, 10:08 PM

"23teeth is..." OOps, it should be 24teeth:D

kidlat

07-06-2002, 09:53 PM

hi i'm new with a V1R and got interested with your suggestions, my question is, which is one is better tested a 24 t or 23 t gears for the rear drive pulley and the side drive pulley. what hobby shop in hongkong can i buy these pulley gears and their respective belts. another question is, in case i decide to use LSD diffs. shall i put it infront or rear where is is the better effect? any body who has the experience using it can answer pls. thanks ! Originally posted by teamorionhk
HI Diesel:

If you are in Hong Kong, make sure that you buy two metal 24 teeth gears for the rear drive pulley and the side drive pulley and the new belts. V-ONE-RR is much quicker using this gear ratio rather than the original 19 teeth gears. You can buy the gear very cheap in here (Hong Kong). USD$7 each for the metal gears and USD$5 each for the side and rear belts. Serpent Impulse Pro is using 23 teeth to drive 46 teeth differential gear. So in Kyosho V-ONE-RR, we change it to from 19 teeth to 24 teeth gear to drive the 48 teeth differential gear. The performance is proven in our local races. Once you are in Hong Kong, you can drop me a line and I can give you the names of the shops (those shops are honest and local, and not aimed at tourist) that sells tons of V-ONE-R good and quality upgrade parts. There is one very big RC shop in YauMeiTai sells big prices to tourists :-( In Hong Kong, V-ONE-R dominates the scene for its cheap prices, tons of upgrades and good performance. Although NTC3 is a rocket compared to V-One-RR, the price of the parts and lack of options are attracting not much attention locally. Furthermore, the local wholeseller of Team Associated product is not doing a good job. Not many shop wants to stock their product.

I have used the Kyosho Limited Differential for a very long time and did not notice any problem with the gear. It is cheap here, it is only selling for USD$50. The parts are beautifully machined with good quality hardened steel. :)

vonejunkie

07-10-2002, 07:41 PM

hey. i have a V-One S running the stock motor with a 2 speed transmission. i have to struggle to get fuel to the engine it usually requires me blowing into the pipe and when i do get fuel in it starts for a second and then dies. i think its not picking up suction if anyone has some advice it would be appreciated. also im getting ready to drop a O.S Max .12 TR non pull start rear exhaust and i was looking for a new pipe so if anyone could recommend a pipe it would be appreciated.

loarc

07-10-2002, 07:44 PM

Any one out there have problem with stock 2 speed shaft bend? I would like to replace with titanium. Who's make them and where I could order from? Please advise thanks

PCC

07-11-2002, 10:40 PM

Speed Tech RC (www.speedtechrc.com) used to carry the FiveStar titanium one. I just checked their site and they don's show anything but Kawahara.

Racer Rich

07-12-2002, 01:03 AM

teamorionhk

07-12-2002, 05:07 AM

"Do you know of any online mail order shops that sell the 23 and 24 tooth"

Only Hong Kong has 24 teeth metal pinion and belts for the conversion. The belt numbers are 1) Rear drive belt Yokomo GT-198 and 2) the side belt number is Bando S3M384UK.

After Trinity Reflex NT has finished 3rd place in ROAR, I have e-mailed these information to Trinity. I think, they will start testing this configuration on their Reflex NT. To temporary solve the low drive ratio, they said that they used 23 teeth 2nd gear (engine clutch side) in ROAR. However, to solve the drive ratio problem , I think, it is better to use the method that I have suggested.

Racer Rich

07-12-2002, 12:19 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
"Do you know of any online mail order shops that sell the 23 and 24 tooth"

Only Hong Kong has 24 teeth metal pinion and belts for the conversion. The belt numbers are 1) Rear drive belt Yokomo GT-198 and 2) the side belt number is Bando S3M384UK.

After Trinity Reflex NT has finished 3rd place in ROAR, I have e-mailed these information to Trinity. I think, they will start testing this configuration on their Reflex NT. To temporary solve the low drive ratio, they said that they used 23 teeth 2nd gear (engine clutch side) in ROAR. However, to solve the drive ratio problem , I think, it is better to use the method that I have suggested.

Thank you for your reply teamorionhk.

I have a few more questions. Do you know of any online mail order shops that sell those belts (Yokomo GT-198 and the Bando S3M384UK)? I need to know where to buy them from. You may be able to purchase them very easily since you live in Hong Kong, but since I live in the U.S.A. it will be much harder for me to find.

Also, what manufacturer makes the 23 and 24 tooth pullies, and which online mail order shop can I buy them from? The mail order shops have to be willing to ship to the U.S.A.

I race on a very open track with big straightaways and large sweeping turns. I feel that your pulley/belt conversion might really improve performance.

Thanks in advance!

Rich

teamorionhk

07-14-2002, 10:25 PM

"Do you know of any online mail order shops that sell those belts (Yokomo GT-198 and the Bando S3M384UK)"

You can get Yokomo GT-198 in US. I think, Yokomo GT-198 is for its GT-4 GP car. Bando is an international belt maker with manufacturing plants in US and Europe. May be you can check out Bando's web-page to find out its US distributors. You can get plastic 24 teeth gear from Mugen's MTX-2 GP car.

Sorry that I do not know any e-store in Hong Kong. The 24 teeth conversion kit, that includes two belts and two metal gears are selling for USD30. May be, this is the reason for you to organize a travel plan to Hong Kong for a 5 day RC shopping tour :-)

Once you get the conversion, NTC3 is a non-issue. I am now using 15/20 clutch gear instead of 15/19. My Stratus shelled RR outruns VDS shell RRs using Nova, JP modified, RB and Collari engines in the straights. The acceration and top speed are awesome.:D

Racer Rich

07-14-2002, 10:36 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
"Do you know of any online mail order shops that sell those belts (Yokomo GT-198 and the Bando S3M384UK)"

You can get Yokomo GT-198 in US. I think, Yokomo GT-198 is for its GT-4 GP car. Bando is an international belt maker with manufacturing plants in US and Europe. May be you can check out Bando's web-page to find out its US distributors. You can get plastic 24 teeth gear from Mugen's MTX-2 GP car.

Sorry that I do not know any e-store in Hong Kong. The 24 teeth conversion kit, that includes two belts and two metal gears are selling for USD30. May be, this is the reason for you to organize a travel plan to Hong Kong for a 5 day RC shopping tour :-)

Once you get the conversion, NTC3 is a non-issue. I am now using 15/20 clutch gear instead of 15/19. My Stratus shelled RR outruns VDS shell RRs using Nova, JP modified, RB and Collari engines in the straights. The acceration and top speed are awesome.:D

Thank you for your reply teamorionhk. I have one more question regarding the Bando drive belts and 24 tooth pullies.

What is the address for Bando's web-page? Also, what are the part numbers for the 24 tooth Mugen MTX-2 pullies?

Thanks in advance! :cool:

Rich

teamorionhk

07-15-2002, 11:03 PM

What is the address for Bando's web-page? Also, what are the part numbers for the 24 tooth Mugen MTX-2 pullies?

It is www.bandoamerican.com. I do not know the part number, you can search www.mugenseiki.com for the information.

Jack_Schitt

07-20-2002, 10:32 PM

Sup all...
I find it very hard to find information and setups for v-one-r's so I thought I thought I would share mine with you guys...

Regular VoneR gear diffs front and back (stock diff oil);
Foam tires 26mm front 30mm back (any GRP brand tires 37-40 shore);
Long CVD's in the back;
No sway bars (yet);
Gold springs in front, black in back, stock shock oil;
Steel pillow balls up front;
Mugen MT12, 20% nitro (switch to 25% later);
Serpent .15 header, NovaMega tp02 (I think thats the #) pipe;
Various bits and pieces from the RR, minus the 3D clutch (heard its hard to tune) and the turret body mounts.

General setup:
Front: 6 degress caster; -2 camber; 1 toe; 5mm ride height
Rear: -3 camber; -2 toe; 5mm ride height
Inner rear camber link: bottom hole is WAY more aggressive on turn in, but lacks the mid turn grip of the top hole. I change according to mood =) and track.
Rear shock top mount: the grippier the track the more inclined I mount them. Creates a progressive feel.
Rear shock bottom mount: always on the bottom.

So far very happy with car, only two complaints: a tad too heavy, and the drivetrain loss of belt drive. I do wish that the front upper arm mount was adjustable, so I can alter the suspension geometry. =(

Next upgrades:
Titanium pillowballs, hinge pins, 2speed and mid shafts, and screws. I've done some research and these items will make the most significant decrease in weight.

Sway bars, for faster transitions and recovery. "Takes away grip but gives more consitent grip." <--- I dont get it but i'll try it.

Thinking about a lower CG fuel tank for better handling.

Also lighter first gear housing. I was thinking about the lower engine mount and lighter flywheel, but I was told that combination will create an unsteady idle.

I will definately try out TEAMORIONHK's pulley modifications and see how it improves my drivetrain. I am weak on the gearing department though so hopefully I don't mess anything up....

Any comments or setups you guys may have please share...=) Thanks.

teamorionhk

07-21-2002, 09:22 PM

"Thinking about a lower CG fuel tank for better handling."

I have installed one in my RR and find that the engine leans out when the fuel level gets low. The original tank does not have this drawback. And I do not feel the lower CG tank has any performance gain. A waste of money piece of upgrade.

"a tad too heavy, ..."
Your engine clutch engages too soon. I use the centax clutch of RR and need to tighten the clutch spring to 2.5mm! while the manual only recommended 2.0mm. If your clutch is engaged too soon, the engine pumps out a lot of blue smoke and sounds like 'boo, boo..." while acceralating. You feel no punch at all. Below is a test for a good engine and clutch settings:

1) Warm up your engine by running a few fast track;
2) Hold the car in your hand and let it idle for about 10 seconds;
3) Pull your throttle and to see the response of the engine;
4) Adjust the idle needle in and stop at the point the engine picks up immediately;
5) Put the car on the track and grasp the car holder with your hand;
6) Pull your throttle and to feel the response of the car;
7) Tighten the centax spring in (or change the hardness of clutch spring if you are using the centrifugal clutch) and stop at the point the car pulls out immediately.

"Gold springs in front, black in back, stock shock oil;"
From your settings in springs and shock oil, I guess that your car is not performing near its top performance. If the car is pulling to its limits, you would have used harder Fantom's springs and using heavier shock oil. The Gold spring and stock oil is too soft to hold the car in fast corners. Our car can achieve 80KmH if running in approx. 60 metre long straight!

Jack_Schitt

07-22-2002, 08:01 PM

Thanks for letting me know about the tank. Just saved some money =)

As for 'a tad too heavy,' I was referring to the actual weight of the car. I appreciate all the strong components that make this car as strong and unbreakable as it is, but all the voner owners I know concur on one thing, that the car is 'a tad too heavy.'

My clutch engagement is fine actually, I love the mad pick up that this car has. It even launches without any torque steer at all, which is common with most shaft drive cars.

Fantom springs eh...? Sounds like you run your car on some very large tracks. We don't have any large tracks here in Vancouver (yet), so I don't think stiffer springs and the slower damping speed of thicker shock oil will help me on our very tight and technical tracks. However, I do play with the inclination of the shock bodies, the effects are similar to those of changing the shock pistons or shock oil. If the track is large, I incline them more, if it is small I do the opposite. Its an economical way of altering damping characteristics to suit the track =)

Nonetheless, I will inquire about you suggestion...=)

Dude, "60 metre long straight," I'd love to run on a track that huge!

By the way, your pulley mod increases top speed right? Does it change how fast you reach those speeds? Because reaching top speed with less distance is a good thing last time I checked (full scale cars and r/c's). I assume the spur gear changes are to compensate for loss of 'punch,' so will the car be slower in the bottom end eventhough the spurs are changed? Also, I believe the conversion requires a special spacer for the 2-speed shaft, the stock spacer is integrated with the stock 19t pulley.

Cheers....

teamorionhk

07-22-2002, 09:50 PM

"your pulley mod increases top speed right? Does it change how fast you reach those speeds?"
With 19 teeth pulleys with 18/22 clutch and 48/44 reduction gears, the engine reached top-speed very soon. Actually, the track that I have used to race has a 40 metre straight only. In this track, we tested the result of using 24 teeth pulleys, 16/21 clutch and with 49/45 reduction gear. The acceralation, speed in short straights and top speed are far more superior. Furthermore, the engine temperature is about 10 degree Celius less than the 18/22 setup. My OS 12TR(P) 3 port engines with Stratus shell could outrun JP modified Nova and RB engines that were running other gear setups with VDS shells.

After the modification, you need to:

1) change the stock clutch spring (centax) with Mugen MTX spring (or other springs of similiar size but with stronger wire. Saving my money to buy the Mugen spring, I have used an Picco Integra 1/8 clutch spring instead) and adjust to a higher engagement speed;
2) increase the weight of the 2nd gear clutch by inserting some bearing balls into the clutch halves to avoid clutch slip during 2nd speed engagement and adjust the 2nd gear clutch to a later kick in.
3) use harder Fantom springs to hold up the car. Otherwise, you may end up with a pile of metals at the end of the straight!
4) use every means to reduce rolling friction, e.g. use telfon bearings, re-condition your bearings often, check for binds, use CVDs and etc. Using 15 or 16 1st clutch gear requires a super smooth car to ensure the pick up is instant. If you are not doing anything to kill the rolling friction, you cannot get satisfactory result with the conversion.

"Also, I believe the conversion requires a special spacer for the 2-speed shaft, the stock spacer is integrated with the stock 19t pulley"
In Hong Kong, we have special alloy spacer for the conversion. If you do not have the special spacer, you can cut the stock plastic spacer to fit.

boner

07-22-2002, 10:38 PM

teamorionhk:

With the 24 teeth pulley conversion you sugguested, does the car still retain the overdrive ratio of stock V One RR?

And how do you calculate the drive ratio between front and rear wheel?

Jack_Schitt

07-23-2002, 05:41 AM

'Actually, the track that I have used to race has a 40 metre straight only. In this track, we tested the result of using 24 teeth pulleys, 16/21 clutch and with 49/45 reduction gear. The acceralation, speed in short straights and top speed are far more superior. Furthermore, the engine temperature is about 10 degree Celius less than the 18/22 setup. My OS 12TR(P) 3 port engines with Stratus shell could outrun JP modified Nova and RB engines that were running other gear setups with VDS shells.'

Really? Very nice. But I'll most likely stick with the 48/44 gears, since my local track is very small, not even 40 metres down the straight, I believe it is closer to 30 meters.

I'll see if I can find the optional hard # 92741 Kyosho Hard Clutch Spring KC45, since I don't have the RR clutch.

'...increase the weight of the 2nd gear clutch by inserting some bearing balls into the clutch halves to avoid clutch slip during 2nd speed engagement and adjust the 2nd gear clutch to a later kick in.' I don't understand this part. 'Weight???' By '2nd gear clutch' do you mean the 2-speed adjustment??

Can you post your spring/damper set up? I cannot find any information on Fantom springs on the internet (I don't even know what the colors are). I know of noone who runs a Fantom here. Can you describe the particular application of each spring ie. big track, small track, high or low grip, etc. And also the shock oil for each.

Sorry, this is a great deal of information I'm asking from you but I don't know ANYBODY around here who uses Fantom springs for their voner's. Everyone here is happy with the performance of their gold and black spring combination, but that maybe because of our relatively small tracks. However, if you say that my shock set-up won't be enough for the added speed of the conversion, I'd like to try your shock set-up.

I've got the pulleys and the belts, straight from HK. I'll have the spacer by the end of this week, if not the next.

:)

Jack_Schitt

07-23-2002, 05:44 AM

By the wat anyone know anything about these? I've never seen them before....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVW4 Cooling fan set.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVW0 Active diff set.

teamorionhk

07-24-2002, 12:12 AM

"Weight???' By '2nd gear clutch' do you mean the 2-speed adjustment?? "
Yes. It is the 2-speed adjustment. Put in more weight to avoid slip in 2-speed.

"Can you post your spring/damper set up? "
Fantom FM368-1.7 or FM368-1.8 and FM369-1.7 or FM369-1.8 with front 50-60wts and rear 40-50wts.

I also tried Serpent's spring: Red in front and Yellow in rear. The result is quite acceptable as well.

The RR springs are too weak to hold the car down in corners.

Jack_Schitt

07-24-2002, 01:00 AM

Thanks

I believe the R uses 27t side pulley, and the RR uses 25t pulley.
Some of the guys I've seen, uses 25t too. I believe its called 'overdriving.' What and why is that?

Racer Rich

07-24-2002, 02:42 AM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
What is the address for Bando's web-page? Also, what are the part numbers for the 24 tooth Mugen MTX-2 pullies?

It is www.bandoamerican.com. I do not know the part number, you can search www.mugenseiki.com for the information.

Thanks for the reply teamorionhk. I have one question regarding the actual "type" of the Bando S3M384UK belt. If you look on Bando's website, they manufacture many different "types" and "versions" of their belts. In fact, here is every "type" and "version" of belt they manufacture:

Power King (A, B, C, D, E)
Power Ace (3V, 5V, 8V)
Power King Cog (AX, BX, CX)
Power Ace Cog (3VX, 5VX)
Power King Combo (B, C, D)
Power Ace Combo (3V, 5V, 8V)
Power Max Variable Speed
Rib Ace (J, L, M)
Double V (AA, BB, CC)
Duraflex GL FHP (3L, 4L, 5L)
Duraflex GL Cog (2L)
Duraflex EVC (3L, 4L, 5L)
Duraflex VC (cog) and DC (double cog)
Banflex (3M, 5M, 7M, 11M)
Banflex Combo (3M, 5M, 7M, 11M)
Metric V-Belts (SPZ, SPA, SPB, SPC)
Synchro-Link Timing Belts Single Sided
Synchro-Link Timing Belts Double Sided

Do you know which "type" the Bando S3M384UK Belt actually is? I don't know if they (Bando) make this particular S3M384UK Belt in different sizes and/or from different materials. Is "S3M384UK" the part number or code number for the particular belt (side belt) we need for the 24 tooth pulley conversion? I want to make sure I buy the right "type" (both size and proper material) of the Bando S3M384UK Belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion.

Thanks in advance!:cool:

Rich

teamorionhk

07-24-2002, 03:20 AM

Rich:

for S3M384UK belt. Please refer the S3M belt type from the following website.

http://www.bando.com.sg/office.htm

The code number 384 is the length of the timing belt. I do not know what 'UK' means.

teamorionhk

07-24-2002, 03:26 AM

Hi Rich:

Furthermore, you can get the specifications of S3M from the following web site:

http://www.bando.de/uk/neopren_supertorque.htm

Jack_Schitt

07-24-2002, 04:11 AM

"Fantom FM368-1.7 or FM368-1.8 and FM369-1.7 or FM369-1.8 with front 50-60wts and rear 40-50wts. "

I assume I would use the 1.8 for the front and the 1.7 for the rear?

The stock oil is 50wt. Would I not use 70 for front and 60 for the back then, to avoid under damping, if I were to use the above setup?

I assume these springs are much stiffer than the stocl ones, even the gold spring.

I am currently running with no anti-roll bars, I wanna tune as much as I can without resorting to roll bars yet. I will use them for 'fine tuning.'

Racer Rich

07-24-2002, 06:45 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
The rear middle gear of V-one-RR seems to be too small, it is of 19 teeth. If you race your V-one-RR in long straights, the engine will scream and reach top speed very soon. Furthermore it reduces engine life.

If you change it to 23 teeth in the middle rear and the rear side pulley, your V-one-RR will be flying in the straights. With better top end speed. Some of my friends changed them to 24 teeth and found the pickup was slow even after they had changed to 15/19 teeth in the clutch bell.

Whether you would like 23 or 24 teeth is a matter of your preference. However the problem is to get the right belt. The availability of belt size in your country is critical. You need to change both the rear drive and side drive belts. For 24 teeth, the rear belt is Bando 198 and for 23 teeth, the belt should be Bando 195. The side belt is easier to get because you can take up the slack with the belt tensioner.

After the gear change, the F/R reduction ratio remains unchanged.

Good Luck!:)

teamorionhk-

Thanks for the reply. I read through this thread again and noticed that you first mentioned and recommended to use the Bando 198 (for 24 teeth pullies) or the Bando 195 (for 23 tooth pullies) as the Rear Belt for the pulley conversion. You then later stated to use the Yokomo GT-198 as the Rear Belt for the 24 tooth pully conversion. What belt do you recommend to use for the 24 tooth pulley conversion? The Bando 198 or the Yokomo GT-198? Since I will have to order the Bando S3M384UK Belt direct from Bando I can just buy the Bando 198 belt from them as well. Which belt (the Bando 198 or the Yokomo GT-198) yields better performance (best durability and least drivetrain friction) for the 24 tooth conversion? Since you already have to use the Bando S3M384UK Belt as the Side Belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion, would it be more of a better "match" and fit to use the Bando 198 Belt as well? What is the part number or code number for the Bando 198 Belt? Also, Is the Bando 198 Belt the same "type" as the S3M384UK Belt (Bando STS SuperTorque SYNCHRONUS)? If not, what "type" or "version" is the Bando 198 Belt?

Also, you stated to use the Bando S3M384UK Belt as the Side Belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion. Is this the proper size belt to use with the 25 tooth belt pulley? I want to use the 25 tooth pulley to overdrive the "front" (like the V-One RR), so is the Bando S3M384UK Belt designed to be used with the 27 tooth pulley or the 25 tooth pulley?

Boy I am asking alot of questions! I just want to make sure I am getting all the right size and type drive-belts I need for this 24 tooth pulley conversion. Thanks for taking your time to answer all these questions!

Regards,

Rich

teamorionhk

07-24-2002, 10:36 PM

"What belt do you recommend to use for the 24 tooth pulley conversion?"

GT-198 is the same as Bando 198. 198 is the length of the belt. We tried Yokomo GT-198 is because it is available very cheaply (USD3) in RC shops and it is widely available. Yokomo's belt is a bit softer than Bando hence reduces rolling fiction. In performance wise, we did not notice any difference. The conversion kit selling in Hong Kong is of Bando S3M198. Both works. In my car, I am using Yokomo GT-198 and Bando side belt.

"Also, you stated to use the Bando S3M384UK Belt as the Side Belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion. Is this the proper size belt to use with the 25 tooth belt pulley?"

You are spot on. 384 belt is only for 25 teeth. It does not fit 27 teeth, it will be too tight or cannot fit at all. When you order the belts, make sure that you have to state the belt width. I am using narrow side belt while some of my fiends are using wider ones. I do not have the measurement with me, my narrow belt only covers half width of the pullies. Narrow belt has less rolling friction but less durable.

You will amaze the car's performance after the conversion. You will feel like driving a totally different car. It is a F1 versus a Corolla. The conversion will expose all the weakness in your current setup and mind you, run it carefully and setup it up properly. Not to come home with a pile of scrap metal :D

Racer Rich

07-26-2002, 11:26 AM

Originally posted by teamorionhk

You are spot on. 384 belt is only for 25 teeth. It does not fit 27 teeth, it will be too tight or cannot fit at all. When you order the belts, make sure that you have to state the belt width. I am using narrow side belt while some of my fiends are using wider ones. I do not have the measurement with me, my narrow belt only covers half width of the pullies. Narrow belt has less rolling friction but less durable.

Thank you for the reply teamorionhk.

I have a question about what width I should use for the Bando S3M384UK Belt. You say you have some friends that are a using "wider" S3M384UK Belt while you are using a more "narrow" S3M384UK Belt. I know you don't currently have the measurement of the belts with you, but it would be a great deal of help if you can give me the measurement of the "narrow" S3M384UK Belt you are using along with the "wider" S3M384UK Belts your friends are using. I am not familiar at all with the widths of Bando Belts so I want to make sure I have the correct measurements before ordering.

Also, what is the measurement of the width of the Yokomo GT-198 Belt? I would like the Bando S3M384UK to be the same width as the Yokomo GT-198 Belt to give me a better match. This way when I have the measurement (of the width) of the Yokomo GT-198 Belt I can use that measurement to order the correct width of the Bando S3M384UK Belt. Would the measurement (the width) of the Yokomo GT-198 Belt be considered a "narrow" belt or be considered a "wider" belt?

Thanks in advance!:cool:

Rich

teamorionhk

07-26-2002, 09:59 PM

Hi Rich:

GT-198 belt should be wider than S3M384UK side belt. It is because the rear belt has to bear greater driving load. The load to the side belt is much smaller. Actually for the most sections of the race track, the side belt is not having any load at all. The only time that the side belt has load is when the car is accerating in mid corner.

The side belt is 3mm while the rear belt is 4mm in width.

Racer Rich

07-27-2002, 12:47 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
Hi Rich:

GT-198 belt should be wider than S3M384UK side belt. It is because the rear belt has to bear greater driving load. The load to the side belt is much smaller. Actually for the most sections of the race track, the side belt is not having any load at all. The only time that the side belt has load is when the car is accerating in mid corner.

The side belt is 3mm while the rear belt is 4mm in width.

Thank you for the reply teamorionhk.

Thanks for the measurements! Just one last question. The 3mm Side Belt and the 4mm Rear Belt are the current width belts you are using, right? Would 3mm be considered a "narrow" side belt? Would it be feasible to use a Side Belt that is even more narrower?

Also, what belt are you using for the front? I know Kyosho has a "special" Front Belt for the V-One RR, the VZW012 (210) Belt, which is actually the same length as the stock, V-One R VZ069 (210) Belt, but the VZW012 Belt is made from a more flexible material, which helps it cope and stand up to the added load of overdrive. Is it necessary to use the VZW012 Belt with the 24 tooth pulley conversion? Would it "free-up" the drive-train in any way, or should I use the V-One R VZ069 as the front belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion?

Finally, what material is the Bando S3M384UK Belt made out of? Is it Kevlar reinforced like the Kyosho Belts? I have had alot of trouble with rubber, non-Kevlar reinforced belts breaking, so I am wondering what the S3M384UK Belt is made out of. If its not Kevlar reinforced, is it possible to order the same 3mm width S3M384UK Belt from Bando that is Kevlar reinforced? In other words to they make a Kevlar reinforced version of the S3M384UK Belt? How is the durability of the 3mm wide S3M384UK Belt you are using? Have you had any trouble with the durability of this belt?

Thanks for taking your time to answer all these questions! You are a great deal of help! :cool:

Regards,

Rich

dxb-track

07-29-2002, 06:35 AM

Originally posted by Jack_Schitt
By the wat anyone know anything about these? I've never seen them before....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVW4 Cooling fan set.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVW0 Active diff set.

COOLING FAN!

I've installed the Cooling fan set, and tried it here 'Dubai, Emirates' where the temperature is about 40 degrees. It actully blows air over the engine, especially if the weather is HOT and the lexan body is covering the engine.

As long as the engine runing, stop or on move, it keeps blowing air as it is attached to the shaft of the piston. Very easy to install and it will keep your engine cooler than usual. The only problem is finding the right airfilter size so that it does not come on the way.

The active Dif.

It is similar to the normal dif, it as an adjustable dif were you can control the amount of power distributed to the axel while turning. You adjust that by tigthen the screw instead of adding thicker oil in the dif!,, so basicly it saves alot of time...!

I hope you are excited about the cooling fan :D

KingWillie

08-06-2002, 01:37 PM

Where would you start...with a V-One RR or a Trinity Reflex NT? With a price difference of about 60 to 80 USD depending on whether you can buy from Hong Kong or not the V-One RR is a little less expensive, but the Reflex comes fully equipped with hop-ups. I am not looking at anything else, already done that, these two cars are the finalists. Thanks :)

deeman

08-06-2002, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by KingWillie
Where would you start...with a V-One RR or a Trinity Reflex NT? With a price difference of about 60 to 80 USD depending on whether you can buy from Hong Kong or not the V-One RR is a little less expensive, but the Reflex comes fully equipped with hop-ups. I am not looking at anything else, already done that, these two cars are the finalists. Thanks :)

Hey KingWillie. If you do some looking around, you can find the Reflex for about $240 here in the states. I have two (one still unbuilt) that cost under $240. The good thing about both cars is that they are roughly the same, so the same suspension setup and most of the parts are interchangeable. But, because Trinity is a bigger name brand in the States, parts for it are a lot easier (and cheaper) to get right now. Even tower has everything in stock most of the time. Oh yeah. The biggest difference is that the Trinity uses the hop-ups as standard parts where as the V1r and (rr) you can get the hop ups as options. And Trinity is continuously upgrading the design with things like hardened pulleys (that will fit both cars), adjustable shock mounts, etc.

Hope I didn't make it any more confusing :D.

I guess you can tell, I've spent alot time pondering the same decision your making now.

:)
D...

boner

08-06-2002, 02:52 PM

What is the adjustable shock mounts? Do you have any picture of it?

deeman

08-06-2002, 03:48 PM

Originally posted by boner
What is the adjustable shock mounts? Do you have any picture of it?

Go to:
Team Trinity (http://www.teamtrinity.com/)

Under the press releases (on right side of page). Click on the ReflexNT Shock Tower link.

D...

ianhobbies

08-06-2002, 04:30 PM

hey guys i just registered in this site, i wanna know wat brand of 24 t pulley should i use? and also the belt,can u guys give me a step by step conversion instructions? tnx!!!! i think i haven't seen a car with this conversion in my country and i wanna be one of the first guys to try it

boner

08-06-2002, 04:59 PM

Thanks deeman. It looks like stock v1r front shock tower. Do you know if it offer more shock position than the V1R shock tower, it hard to make out from the picture at Trinity web site.

KingWillie

08-06-2002, 06:58 PM

Originally posted by deeman

The good thing about both cars is that they are roughly the same, so the same suspension setup and most of the parts are interchangeable. .

So, Trinity is buying originals from KYOSHO and upgrading with their pieces? Where did you find the Reflex for $240, I haven't seen it any lower than $270. I found the V-One RR on JPM.HK for $209. Although the difference wouldn't cover the the cost of the hop-ups from Trinity. Guess I am leaning towards the Reflex. Thanks.

PatellaDragger

08-06-2002, 08:13 PM

This debate was hot and heavy when the reflex was first released about its similarities to the v1r. From a racer who has raced both, I will tell you flat out - the cars are not the same. They are similar, and some pluses for one over the other, but they are certainly not the same.

The reflex uses trinity's molds with kfactory hop-up parts. The plastic on the trinity is not the same as the plastic on the v1r or RR, and is not of the same quality. The shocks and shock ends are not of the same quality. Factory reflex drivers put kyosho parts on their reflex to make them better. The stock gear diffs on the reflex (the original version at least), left a lot to be desired.

The reflex has the better 2-speed over the stock v1r, possibly the stock clutch, but aside from that and maybe the universals nothing on the reflex makes it better than the v1r. The V1RR is the best choice, order it from japan, and if you feel you want eye candy like graphite upper deck and alumninum pullies - order them by all means.

Both cars are great but there are just enough differences to make trying to use one as a backup for the other a real pain. I started with a reflex then went to v1r, and added RR. Along the way I added reflex parts (really kfactory) to the V1R. If I had it to do over I would go str8 for RR. The centax and freer drivetrain along with superb durability make it a solid choice.

KingWillie

08-06-2002, 09:36 PM

Originally posted by PatellaDragger
Both cars are great but there are just enough differences to make trying to use one as a backup for the other a real pain. I started with a reflex then went to v1r, and added RR. Along the way I added reflex parts (really kfactory) to the V1R. If I had it to do over I would go str8 for RR. The centax and freer drivetrain along with superb durability make it a solid choice.

What about the chassis on the V-One RR, most of the guys I see racing them have optioned for an aftermarket unit was there some flex with it or something? Did you notice much difference in the handling on hard acceleration was the Reflex better at staying straight? Thanks for the input, they both look like great cars, I didn't know the Reflex was done from the Trinity molds, I had assumed, wrongly, the had purchased the pieces from KYOSHO. ;)

KingWillie

08-07-2002, 02:23 PM

OS Max 0.12 TR-(P) turbo in a V-One RR Does anyone have any experience with this motor in the V1RR? And what about the gearing if you do. Thanks

Jack_Schitt

08-10-2002, 03:51 PM

Man ppl have been taking pieces of the voner/RR and putting them on the reflex ever since the car came out. One example was the front shock tower, which is in no way a big deal, so what if they came out with one? About time.

I think the reflex is an inferior product. I hear ppl say that the build process is not a smooth, the fit and finish, and the instructions.

And don't be easily swayed by shiny aluminum and flashy graphite pieces. How does that help the car anyways? The graphite/plastic pulleys of the RR are lighter than the aluminum ones. The belts of the RR are much smoother than kevlar belts. How does a graphite radio tray make your car go fast???

I mean cmon man, centax clutch, turret links, sway bars, and proven engineering, not a knock off. Plus a bunch of other smaller features and parts. Nearly indestructible. I think the RR is an obvious choice.

Its a shame that Kyosho doesn't promote this car enough on North American shores. Its a great car, has everything the impulse and the mtx2 has, and more. Gives the NTC3 a good run.
Its not as popular here because no pro driver races it. Bad marketing.....

Peace

KingWillie

08-10-2002, 08:30 PM

Thanks Jack, how do you feel about the Kawahara (spelling?) pieces for the RR. They look to have made improvements over some of the stock RR pieces. But, as you said I don'r see the RR breaking at the track, not like the TC3s anyway.

ianhobbies

08-11-2002, 05:34 PM

i agree with u jack! bad marketing.. kyosho is the best, great quality and performance, i'd rather win with a under rated car than an over rated one :)

KingWillie

08-11-2002, 06:20 PM

ianhobbies, what do you pay for the RR in the Phillipines? Just curious, I found a site in HK selling it for $209 USD after the conversion.

ponky_wonky

08-11-2002, 07:30 PM

hey guys, if you own or have questions about the V One R(R) go to www.rctech.net/
they have the most active v one r thread with 3300 posts or something like that, my name on there is asd
peace out

teamorionhk

08-11-2002, 10:59 PM

"Its a shame that Kyosho doesn't promote this car enough on North American shores. Its a great car..."

VONE R/RR is the most popular car in Hong Kong, followed by Serpent and Mugen. Cheap pricing, plenty of original and quality aftermarket parts. The car is very user friendly, e.g. easy to setup right to suit various track conditions and different driver style. Furthermore the car is durable and cheap to maintain. In terms of maintenance, NTC3 is a Benz while VONE R/RR is a Corolla. VONE R/RR is a good all-arounder and very easy on your pocket. However, if you just won a lottery and money does not matters you and you enjoy changing damage parts after a couple of races, NTC3 imay be a better choice.

PCC

08-12-2002, 12:49 AM

teamorionhk, the situation is the opposite here in the USA. The Associated NTC3 is readily available and parts are cheap to get. The V-One R, on the other hand, is like a Mercedes: expensive to get, expensive to repair, solid as a rock. This is due to Great Plains gouging the American buyer (Great Plains is the exclusive importer of Kyosho in the USA).

My brother sold his V-One R for a NTC3. After running it for a month he sold it for a V-One RR (that a buddy had shipped from Japan). While he had the NTC3, he kept complaining about how cheap the car felt to build and how cheap it felt when working on it.

teamorionhk

08-12-2002, 02:46 AM

That is logical. America is protecting its own industry. In Hong Kong, NTC3 parts are much more expensive than Kyosho. Fr example, a front differential of NTC3 costs USD60 while Kyosho costs USD25. A rear suspension of NTC3 costs USD8 while Kyosho costs USD3.5. The local distribution of NTC3 in Hong Kong is not doing a good job. That is why, NTC3 is not that popular in here.

wjj

08-12-2002, 12:40 PM

The reflex has proven it self in major races and has shown support in upgrading their car to compete with the big boys (serpent, yokomo and mugen). The factory drivers do not use kyosho parts any more because of upgrading support from trinity.
Most of kyosho upgrades come from third parties which shows that they don't support their car when it comes to high competition.

Racer Rich

08-12-2002, 02:15 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
Hi Rich:

GT-198 belt should be wider than S3M384UK side belt. It is because the rear belt has to bear greater driving load. The load to the side belt is much smaller. Actually for the most sections of the race track, the side belt is not having any load at all. The only time that the side belt has load is when the car is accerating in mid corner.

The side belt is 3mm while the rear belt is 4mm in width.

Thank you for the reply teamorionhk.

Thanks for the measurements! Just one last question. The 3mm Side Belt and the 4mm Rear Belt are the current width belts you are using, right? Would 3mm be considered a "narrow" side belt? Would it be feasible to use a Side Belt that is even more narrower?

Also, what belt are you using for the front? I know Kyosho has a "special" Front Belt for the V-One RR, the VZW012 (210) Belt, which is actually the same length as the stock, V-One R VZ069 (210) Belt, but the VZW012 Belt is made from a more flexible material, which helps it cope and stand up to the added load of overdrive. Is it necessary to use the VZW012 Belt with the 24 tooth pulley conversion? Would it "free-up" the drive-train in any way, or should I use the V-One R VZ069 as the front belt for the 24 tooth pulley conversion?

Also, what material is the Bando S3M384UK Belt made out of? Is it Kevlar reinforced like the Kyosho Belts? I have had alot of trouble with rubber, non-Kevlar reinforced belts breaking, so I am wondering what the S3M384UK Belt is made out of. If its not Kevlar reinforced, is it possible to order the same 3mm width S3M384UK Belt from Bando that is Kevlar reinforced? In other words to they make a Kevlar reinforced version of the S3M384UK Belt? How is the durability of the 3mm wide S3M384UK Belt you are using? Have you had any trouble with the durability of this belt?

Finally, is the 24 tooth pulley conversion ROAR legal? I race on ROAR tracks so my car has to come under ROAR rules and regulations.

Thanks for taking your time to answer all these questions! You are a great deal of help!:cool:

Regards,

Rich

Jack_Schitt

08-12-2002, 10:28 PM

Kingwillie:
Kawahara parts are great, but they are not cheap. Most hopups are just for looks, it doesn't necessarily help. Look at my earlier post regarding aluminum pulleys and graphite trays. In my opinion the items that do make a differance from kawahara are the lower engine mounts and smaller flywheel. As well as the lighter 2speed housing. But the difference of performance is hard to measure, no such equipment exists to do so. Titanium 2speed shafts and mid shaft is good. The best thing from Kawahara? The LSD, it doesn't break, ingenious in design and theory. Its nowhere near a full scale LSD from Cusco of Kaaz, but its the best one yet for an r/c. Everything else is just shiny and stronger material. The only thing graphite i would by for my car is a rear shock tower mount from FiveStar, it has FIVE different mounting points, allows you to incline the rear shocks to the same degreee as the front. That area is also under heavy stress when the car is flipped over and sliding and tumbling after a crash (if seen three break so far, but not mine). But then again I'm no expert.

wjj:
Yes the Reflex is doing great, not gonna deny that. It has MANY similarities with the voner, thats why they used kyosho parts. The car did not come with alot of stuff that the voner comes with, that is also why they used voner parts. So of course, now that they have thought things out, came out with their own parts(which should have been there in the first place) they dont need voner parts.
As I implied/stated earlier kyosho doesn't seem to want to compete here, dunno why..
And like I said, the voner comes LOADED with EVERYTHING. Everything that works, not just shiny stuff. All the after market stuff out there isnt for support in high competion the car doesn't need to be upgraded. Hopups just look nice and hopups take things in theory (like the lower engine mount and the shafts) to the extreme.

Do you guys notice, most of the pro drivers dont have anything special done to their cars. The ntc3's that ive seen are BONE stock. Its all in the driver guys....cliche but......

Jack_Schitt

08-12-2002, 10:35 PM

oops i meant Cusco or Kaaz.

And those BONE ntc3s, and impulses, and reflexs, and mugens very FAST.

teamorionhk

08-13-2002, 02:33 AM

Hi Rich:

I did not change the front belt. I have been using 24T side and rear belts for a couple of months now and have not noticed any problem with it. The Bando and Yokomo belts are great. Furthermore, I did not try to use narrower belts. I use the 24T conversion with 16/21 teeth using my OS12TR(P). The acceralation and speed are awesome. I need to use Serpent Red/Blue springs to hold the car down in high speed and traction track. One of my friend is using Nova Mega 3 ports and it outrun 5 ports engine with standard setup with >2 sec per lap!

Someone sent an e-mail to me and requested me to air-mail three sets of the conversion kits to US. I would like to help but currently the conversion kit is out of stock in Hong Kong. The shop keepers told me that there were a lot of demands on the conversion kit locally and worldwide. The little factory cannot coup with the demand. If the supply comes again, may be I can help. I do not want to have a situation that I cash in the money but keep you waiting for parts. The kit is selling for USD30 locally and approx added on USD10 for handling and air-mail. :D

loarc

08-13-2002, 11:24 AM

teamorionhk,
can you help me to get one of the 24t convertion? please contact me ephabmixay@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Eddie

PatellaDragger

08-13-2002, 11:29 AM

team orion - that was me that sent you the email on mailing the conversion kits. I'm in no hurry to get them, my V1R is dialed right now, just thought i'd try it out. Let me know when they do come back in though. thx.

wjj

08-13-2002, 12:07 PM

"Yes the Reflex is doing great, not gonna deny that. It has MANY similarities with the voner, thats why they used kyosho parts."

I disagree, the kit had everything that the v-oner had, as well as the serpent and mugen cars. The racers did not use any v-oner parts, there is a thread here about the last major race they had and all I see are trinity parts on that car, not kyosho.

"So of course, now that they have thought things out, came out with their own parts(which should have been there in the first place) they dont need voner parts. "

That is typical of any race car mfgr. A good example is Ferrari in F1, the car that Schumacher and Barrichello started out with this season is not the same car that they both use now because of the constent updating of the car, which is what trinity does with their car. Now if they were to follow your example in parentheses, they (Ferrari) wouldn't have ran any races yet.

"And like I said, the voner comes LOADED with EVERYTHING. Everything that works, not just shiny stuff."

And the reflex doesn't? The only "shiny stuff" is the chassis, radio plate support, cvd's and some pulleys, are you telling me the v-onr doesn't have those parts?

"Hopups just look nice and hopups take things in theory (like the lower engine mount and the shafts) to the extreme."

You mean like f1 and lmp sport cars? Racing is about taking everthing to the extreme, every little bit helps. In f1 they make a big deal if one of the drivers have their watch on when racing (extra weight).

"Do you guys notice, most of the pro drivers dont have anything special done to their cars. The ntc3's that ive seen are BONE stock. Its all in the driver guys....cliche but......"

I disagree with that, you need to go to that thread I mentioned earlier and look at the associated section there, not everything on that car is stock as well as other cars, the serpent had a updated two speed that is not sold to the public yet.

KingWillie

08-13-2002, 10:11 PM

Whoa, thanks for all the info guys, I'm off to buy the V-One RR.

ponky_wonky

08-13-2002, 11:34 PM

hey kingwilly, i ordered my v one RR today, i think we made a great choice:D
the v one rr seems great,
centax clutch
improved downforce effect
foam tires
anti roll bars
graphite infused plastic pullies and a ton more goodies not to mention all the goodies on the normal v one r:cool:

Nemesis

08-14-2002, 01:43 PM

You guys made the right choice. King Willie, hope to see you Sunday in Richmond. Good racing.

KingWillie

08-14-2002, 10:40 PM

Go Ponky, we'll be there Nemesis with revamped suspension on the KYOSHO MKII Spider, Team Ten Year Old has got a new Mondeo Body can't miss it Blue and Yellow, actually looks good. See ya there.
Hey they redesigned the track, very fast layout need to run those low gears. Could be an improvement, Team Ten YO gets around it pretty well now.

ponky_wonky

08-15-2002, 12:12 AM

hey guys here's something i've been postong in all the major forums, enjoy

quick analagy

kyosho V One RR- Acura NSX-T(great parts quality, really nice and clean looking,great handling, extremely durable, very fast and it's japanese! )

Serpent Impulse prospec- Porsche 911 Carrera(very fast, great parts quality, great handling, nice layout, parts are quite expensive, very durable!)

Team Associated NTC3- Chevrolet Corvette(very fast, great acceleration, great handling, not the greatest parts quality, very good parts availibility, shaft driven and quite fragile(personal experiences))

Trinity reflex NT- Dodge viper(very fast, looks great, a real eye candy, great handling, good parts availibility, quite durable, trinity kind of copied kyosho with this design, no biggie!)

Mugen MTX-2- lexus sc 430(a real looker, very fast, great handling, great parts quality,very durable, excellent design and layout, overall great car!)

Yokomo gt4- Mercedes Benz SL500(a few bugs to work out, very fast, great handling, quite durable, good parts quality, and its good looking)

Hpi RS4 3 Type SS- Mercedes Benz CLK(not the greatest parts quality, quite fast, good handling, quite durable, great price, great parts availibility, and it's shaft driven)

as you can see all of the cars above have pros and cons, ie. parts quality, price of parts, parts availability, etc. etc
They're all great cars,
GET OVER IT, IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT CAR YOU PIC AS LONG AS YOU HAVE FUN WITH IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(sorry if i didn't mention all of the pro cars
peace out
:) :)

teamorionhk

08-15-2002, 02:57 AM

I dislike the following design features:

1) V-ONE-RR. Dirt can go into the 2nd speed clutch very easily and it slips after couple of laps. If you are in a race, you need to clean the clutch after each qualify. Even you have done that, the clutch still slips during finals;
2) Serpent Impulse. The 2nd speed assembly is extremely heavy and it needs a super powerful engine to rev it. Impulse is a A1M1 tank, you will need V12 1000hp engines to push it;
3) Associated NTC3. NTC3 use electic car (ultra fragile) parts in Nitro car. The car is fast, but not durable. The rear body posts mounts directly on top of the rear differential gear cover. If the car is being hit hard, the differential gear cover will absorb all of the load and break. Wow! it is not cheap to replace the parts.

ponky_wonky

08-15-2002, 03:11 PM

hey teamorionhk

i think you're wrong about the clutch in the v one rr, the v one rr utilises a Centax clutch which is specially designed so it WON'T SLIP and so that it ensures constant engagement no matter what:cool:

KingWillie

08-15-2002, 08:38 PM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
I dislike the following design features:

1) V-ONE-RR. Dirt can go into the 2nd speed clutch very easily and it slips after couple of laps. If you are in a race, you need to clean the clutch after each qualify. Even you have done that, the clutch still slips during finals;

I can tell you this piece is not consistent with what I have seen, the guys using the CENTAX 3d adjustable clutch are some of the happiest racers I have seen at tracks, sounds like someone had a singular bad experience that you know. I have never seen this yet and I've been drooling over the V-One R since February.

ponky_wonky

08-15-2002, 08:50 PM

i agree, like i said in my earlier post

teamorionhk

08-16-2002, 12:07 AM

"...CENTAX 3d adjustable clutch..."
I am not referring to the Centax clutch. It is the 2nd speed clutch I am taking about. That is the clutch that drives 48T and 44T. Due to the open design of the 44T, it exposes the 2nd speed clutch to dirt.

KingWillie

08-16-2002, 06:37 PM

I guess I should have said I haven't seen any troubles with the drive train in general. Are you running this car which has these problems? I am curious as I am about to plop down some cash for this thing. Let me know as this is the first I have heard this. Thanks

Racer Rich

08-21-2002, 01:38 AM

I was told that now being sold overseas (I believe in Asia and Europe) Kyosho just released a new Rubber Tire Version the V-One RR GT. Terence from the rcmodel.com.hk online shop states he has them in stock. I have a question about the V-One RR GT Rubber Tire Version. What is the difference between the V-One RR GT Rubber Tire Version and the V-One RR GT Foam Tire Version? Is the only difference the tires (one kit having foam and one kit having rubber), or is there actually different parts used in each of the kits?

Thanks in advance! :cool:

Rich

dxb-track

08-21-2002, 11:16 AM

Originally posted by Racer Rich
What is the difference between the V-One RR GT Rubber Tire Version and the V-One RR GT Foam Tire Version? Is the only difference the tires (one kit having foam and one kit having rubber), or is there actually different parts used in each of the kits?
Rich

I belive that the old version

1) V-one-R "Standard" Comes with rubber tires, and 4 wheel drive.

2) V-One-R Foam, it was ofcourse Foam tires but 2 wheel drive, the front diff. is one way, which it only allowed braking and not acceleration. Some people prefer one way, I personaly like the 4 wheel, better traction.

With the new V-one-RR "Foam" is the same thing,,,,,,

.... If u already have a V-one R or S, no need to buy the new one, I have changed my V-One-R and it looks and acts like a V-One-RR..

I am working on my V-One-S, they have the exact suspension, so buy the rear body holder, and the front anti-roll bar... I will try to post the images later... and tell u what u need.

Racer Rich

08-21-2002, 12:37 PM

Originally posted by dxb-track

I belive that the old version

1) V-one-R "Standard" Comes with rubber tires, and 4 wheel drive.

2) V-One-R Foam, it was ofcourse Foam tires but 2 wheel drive, the front diff. is one way, which it only allowed braking and not acceleration. Some people prefer one way, I personaly like the 4 wheel, better traction.

With the new V-one-RR "Foam" is the same thing,,,,,,

.... If u already have a V-one R or S, no need to buy the new one, I have changed my V-One-R and it looks and acts like a V-One-RR..

I am working on my V-One-S, they have the exact suspension, so buy the rear body holder, and the front anti-roll bar... I will try to post the images later... and tell u what u need.

How did you convert your V-One R to a V-One RR and what parts did you use and need for the conversion? I tried looking around for the parts for the Floating Rear Body Mount, but Kyosho does not have all the part #s on everything I need, so it is somewhat difficult. I really like the Floating Rear Body Mount on the V-One RR, and would like to have it, so maybe you can help me out with everything I need.

Thanks in advance!:cool:

Rich

dxb-track

08-21-2002, 08:14 PM

Originally posted by Racer Rich

How did you convert your V-One R to a V-One RR and what parts did you use and need for the conversion? I tried looking around for the parts for the Floating Rear Body Mount, but Kyosho does not have all the part #s on everything I need, so it is somewhat difficult. I really like the Floating Rear Body Mount on the V-One RR, and would like to have it, so maybe you can help me out with everything I need.

The Blue anodised metals are from GPM Racing Products. I got them from HongKong, good price, and quality, ...

I think u should have a look first at the Original V-One-RR,
1) It has antirol bar, behing the foam bumber,
2) Modified Clutch, which is like the Fantom (1/8 Scale),...
3) And the rear body mount, which u can use on both the oval and touring class, I am using it on the Astra Body right now...

Here is a picture which says a thousand words.. :)

Later I will add more photos..

dxb-track

08-21-2002, 08:19 PM

hehehe! Her is 8000 Words for u my friend

dxb-track

08-21-2002, 08:23 PM

v-one r to v1rr

dxb-track

08-21-2002, 08:30 PM

Right now I am shifting the RR stuf to my new V-One-S.. hehe! and it is legal for the Kyosho World cup, I saw this technique in the last 4th Kyosho World cup, in Beijing,China...

I have not tested it yet... Tommorrow the track will be opened, my friends and I will test & see the V-One-SRR will behave...

:D :cool: :D :cool: :D :cool: :D :cool: :p :D :cool: :D :cool:

ponky_wonky

08-21-2002, 09:56 PM

i hear gpm is the cruddiest hop up company there is!(i hear, i've never witnessed)

KingWillie

08-21-2002, 10:11 PM

Originally posted by ponky_wonky
i hear gpm is the cruddiest hop up company there is!(i hear, i've never witnessed)
Ponky, I don't know if I agree with that, we have purchased plenty of GPM parts for the KYOSHO WC MKII Spider from GPM and they have been good quality, fit correctly and performed well. Unless there has been some change I would disagree with that.

ponky_wonky

08-21-2002, 10:42 PM

i said i "heard from the experts"

Flip

08-21-2002, 11:24 PM

Hey I got a couple of quick questions, and sorry if they have been already answered.

Have you guys seen the V1S carbon fiber upper deck yet?
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc2911.jpg

Also, I'm in the market for a RB X12. Will the X12 fit my V1S with a standard shaft?

Where can I find an after market screw set for my V1S? I seem to have lost a few screws and i want to upgrade. Is the Kawahara negative zero differential a good buy?

teamorionhk

08-21-2002, 11:46 PM

"How did you convert your V-One R to a V-One RR and what parts did you use and need for the conversion?"

If you are running touring sedan shell, the rear and front suspension configuration of V-ONE-R are better than V-ONE-RR.

It is because the CG of touring sedan is higher than VDS shell, therefore, the V-ONE-R rear and front suspension allows for more options (i.e. more right up suspension angles) to adjust the hardness of the suspension to counter the movement of the taller sedan shells. I used to run touring sedan shells, therefore I have backward convert my RR to R and have found my lap time decreased by 1 sec!

The rear suspension of R has different mechanics than RR. In R, the body shell is mounting directly on the rear suspension holder plate, therefore the body downforce will push the rear end lower. This will stablise the car in high speed by lowering the rear roll centre. It can calm down the car in high speed.

However, in RR the downforce on the body shell does not change the rear ride height. Therefore, if you use sedan shell with RR rear suspension, the car will be a bit unstable in high speed. You need to adjust other settings to compensate.

Racer Rich

08-22-2002, 03:56 AM

Originally posted by teamorionhk
"How did you convert your V-One R to a V-One RR and what parts did you use and need for the conversion?"

If you are running touring sedan shell, the rear and front suspension configuration of V-ONE-R are better than V-ONE-RR.

It is because the CG of touring sedan is higher than VDS shell, therefore, the V-ONE-R rear and front suspension allows for more options (i.e. more right up suspension angles) to adjust the hardness of the suspension to counter the movement of the taller sedan shells. I used to run touring sedan shells, therefore I have backward convert my RR to R and have found my lap time decreased by 1 sec!

The rear suspension of R has diff