Duratrax Evader ST Forum v3.0

[AznJunkie]

They are racerhobbies sport batteries. I paid $25 each. Not the best, but it works.

Pricing depends on what kind of batteries you want. Unmatched packs will be cheaper than matched. Get matched if you're gonna race. If you gonna bash then stick with unmatched.

For unmatched, Promatch have unmatched GP3300 pack for $35.99. http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatts.htm
Rcboyz has racer edge 3000 pack for $24.99. I wonder if it’s any good. http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=16032&clist=0,9833,16031

If you want matched, promatch have GP3300 pack for $40.99 (same link from above for promatch).
Towerhobbies have Trinity GP3300 for $43.99. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LA2174&P=1

[pudder]

You get what you pay for.

[k_sw31]

Not necesarrily with promatch, I have some GP3300s (matched) and some Sanyo 3000 HV that I picked up for around 45$, they are great, a lot better than my panasonic 3000 sticks that I paid 60 for :)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by jdm3849


If you are just going to be bashing and racing friends the Evader would be a good choice. There is a really good deal out now, it is a T3 RTR Special Edition. It has full rubber sealed bearings, Reedy MVP motor, F1 reverse digital ESC, NEW hitec reciever, BB MG servo, and the "team built" body. It runs for about 250$ but is the best deal out there because it is instantly race ready- the ESC has a reverse lockout and the motor is a ROAR legal 27t rebuildable motor that boosts the truck up to about 26MPH as tested in Xtreme RC cars.

T

I haven't seen anything about a T3 rtr SE anywhere, can you give me a link?

[AznJunkie]

Yeah I agree with you on that pudder. My packs from racerhobbies isn't really that bad. I get good run time and punch. The punch stays the same and only fade when the battery is about to die. Not to shabby for $25.

I see someone on Ebay selling a Reedy matched 3000MAH pack for $39.95 (buy it now). Shipping is kinda high $7.95.

Here's the number 3113743050. www.ebay.com

[AznJunkie]

k_sw31 - They have it at Stormerhobbies. It's a team built that they made RTR.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC7008

[ZootMan]

The only thing limiting you to how high mah you run depends on what the charger can do.

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by k_sw31
but you can still easily make an electric go faster than a nitro...isn't that why the fastest rc car top speed is held by an electric dragger?? :p


Who ever said that the person that made the fastest car had an easier time building it than the nitro car?

Aluma, lol. Have you ever had a nitro? A 5 degree difference will do nothing in performance wise. A 15 degree change MAY effect the performance but I highly doubt it. If one of the needles is 1 degree off on the engine it won't make the engine overheat. The last time I tuned my engine was 6 months ago and still have all the performance I did before. i have never had anyone complain about the noise, even running it next to a retirement home. All you need for clean up is an air compressor and you are done. No need for buggy blast or cleaner, even though i have some I do not need to clean with it. It is over a year old and there is almost a half of a can left.

I dont see how you think it is easier to make an electric go faster.
I just showed you what it takes for an average newbie.

[AznJunkie]

jdm3849 – Nitro isn’t for everyone. I tried nitro for a year and I didn’t like nitro too much. I believe pudder had a nitro truck before too. I love the power and smell of nitro (mumm nitro fuel…smells so good ;) ), but I hate the tuning and cleaning. Both Electric and nitro has it pros and cons.

For people just starting into this hobby I would highly suggest electric first then nitro.

[ZootMan]

I know what you mean, i have been in electrics for about 1 1/2 years now and i just now think im ready to move on to gas. (remember that gas cars have just as many, if not more electric components.)
Get this- a guy from my dad's work has a nitro truck (he did not say what kind) and that all that is wrong with it is the transmission is a little "wacky" (his choice of words, not mine) and if i can fix the car he will sell it to me for cheap.I have gotten pretty good at fixing rc car things and am looking forward to work on it.I just thought someone would like to know.

AznJunkie- you are right about one thing.....nitro smells great. :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
jdm3849 – Nitro isn’t for everyone. I tried nitro for a year and I didn’t like nitro too much. I believe pudder had a nitro truck before too. I love the power and smell of nitro (mumm nitro fuel…smells so good ;) ), but I hate the tuning and cleaning. Both Electric and nitro has it pros and cons.

For people just starting into this hobby I would highly suggest electric first then nitro.

Ya, I did. I liked it. But as I said, things started to wear out, cost a lot and I didn't have money to do it anymore. I find I really like electric, can race it all year round too.

I did like the power from stock, speed, ect but right now some of my electrics go basically just as fast as a stock nitro.

[TeamMishap]

Just got one of these today.

Sent my MRC 959 back. Darned thing only charged my 1500s without false peaking.

Then ordered a Integy 16x7 got hosed around by the store telling me they were in stock and shipping, that was back on 31 Jan and came to find out they are out of stock and due in next week. F it I said, cancel the order.

This little Digital Pirahna is kicking butt. Filled my 3000s no problem. Even figured out how to cheat it into charging two packs at once (up to 2400s). You can do this with about any charger, just gotta know the Mishap secret ;) And it's got 10 memory slots so you don't have to punch in your settings everytime you change packs. Only thing I don't like about it is that it has a 3A charge limit on AC, but goes to 5A DC. Oh well, for $60...yeah I bought it a LHS and the price shows, it's a cool little charger.

[Namvet]

I adjusted the D/R and sure enough it is now seems to be turning alright. Thanks for the help on my steering.

Namvet

[k_sw31]

what, say tell, is the "Mishap Secret" ?

[TeamMishap]

Now that I think about it, my secret is stupid. I hooked up two packs in parallel, added the capacities and set it to charge. The DUH factor is that it takes just as long to charge two packs like this as it does each individually.

To truly do two packs at once in the same amount of time as one, you'd need to wire the packs up in series and have enough volt output to charge 12 cells. Only expensive chargers have 12 cell output.

NAMVET - Glad I could help. I'm normally the one asking the questions, not answering them. LOL.

[Namvet]

I went to LHS to get set of street slicks already mounted on wheels for my ST. They did not have them.

Can anyone direct me to who on the internet might sell them, like tower hobbies or someone?

I wanted to get blus wheels with the tires, but would like to already glued. If thats not possible I have glus I could do it.

Thanks in Advance

Namvet

[Namvet]

I went to LHS to get set of street slicks already mounted on wheels for my ST. They did not have them.

Can anyone direct me to who on the internet might sell them, like tower hobbies or someone?

I want blue wheels with the tires, but would like them already glued. If thats not possible I have glue I could do it.

Thanks in Advance

Namvet

[pudder]

What do you mean by "blus" and "glus"?

You can get slicks, but they don't give very good grip with trucks. I suggest getting some treaded tires like the Pro-Line Road Hawgs, Road Hawgs II or Road Rage.

[Namvet]

Originally posted by pudder
What do you mean by "blus" and "glus"?

You can get slicks, but they don't give very good grip with trucks. I suggest getting some treaded tires like the Pro-Line Road Hawgs, Road Hawgs II or Road Rage.

If you read my second post I corrected the blus and glus to blue and glued.

I had a friend of mine tell me for running on the road (as in asphalt and/or cement) to run slicks.

Maybe this is wrong, if so I stand corrected.

You know pudder someone with all your knowledge should be giving good advice not always correcting people because they made typos, or maybe they don't know the right language of the R/C world.

Your a bright 14 or 15 year old pudder, but you are short on common manners.

I'm 60 years old and my Mother taught me about manners and I am still learning about manners.

Please if you can't just help me with my questions, than ignore my post, I'm sure someone on this forum will be happy to help. Stop LURKING the forums to find ways to make you look good at others expense.

But I bet even you Pudder, didn't have the first idea about anything in the r/c world when you first started.

[ronbeck]

first thing pudder just loves to tease.

secound any rim for the losi xx-t will work. but i would not go for the losi street tires for trucks. hate mine. they are too hard sheen up easy(glossy finish). go for pro line tires.

look back in the thread and you will find lots of posts on different rims.

peter:p

[pudder]

Namvet- you're silly. I was just kidding there... and you're right, I didn't know what the heck to do when I got into the hobby, but don't take me so serious! :p :D

Like I said, Pro-Line tires are great, and DuraTrax makes some nice blue rims too. You can't get the combination glued, so you would have to do it yourself!

[evader32]

Does ne body want to buy my evader it has graphite rear suspension arms, titanium kingpins and turnbuckles, might come with electronic i dunno yet make an offer E-mail snowmo158@aol.com for other details thanks

[Namvet]

Thanks ronbeck and pudder for the help. I will see what I can find on the Pro-Line tires.

Thanks

Namvet

[pudder]

Originally posted by evader32
Does ne body want to buy my evader it has graphite rear suspension arms, titanium kingpins and turnbuckles, might come with electronic i dunno yet make an offer E-mail snowmo158@aol.com for other details thanks

Post it in the Forsale/Trade forums, more people will look, plus people here probably won't buy it since they already have evaders.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Maybe you guys can help me, i posted a thread on the electic section. What colour are the springs on the stock photon?
Thanks!

Matt

[k_sw31]

they are black, or maybe silver....

[pudder]

Why do you care what color they are? I don't think you could tell tension by the color of the ones on the photon, since it is Duratrax and all.

[spreckenzy]

namvet
pudder was just teasing you dont take offense. pudder is a great help to alot of people. his manners are outstanding.

anyway any losi xxxt wheels will work. i have the rmp stars with the brushed aluminum look. i wouldnt get slicks personally but i would try the road hawgs out.

anyone have any input on the performance of the road hawg type of tire? good? bad? fast? slow? worth buying?

[pudder]

I have the Road Hawg II tires, I really like them, on a warm day they get super sticky and cling to the road.

spreckenzy, did you get the part i sent you?

[spreckenzy]

pudder ya i got that part ya must have missed my post a few pages back thanks again!

[pudder]

Good to be of some use. :)

[k_sw31]

I agree, I wouldn't buy slicks, they wear out fairly fast, and aren't really ment for two wheel drive applications, go for either some pro line road hogs, or some road rage tires, both work great and have long life. :)

I believe my friend has rpm clawz rims that were orinally ment for traxxas cars, but they fit fine, all they need are hex adapters...:)

[orbitron]

I got some road rage tires about two weeks ago. They look great, but I haven't got a chance to really try them out yet. Only on my basement floor, which I recently waxed my snowboards on. I can do the smallest donuts in the world. My truck spins around one of the front tires like it was nailed to the floor. I hope that wax wears off on the pavement.

[pudder]

I have a video of my T3 doing donuts with some Road Hawg II's in some fine sand stuff on the side of a road. If anyone wants to take a look:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/vid/donuts.mpg

[orbitron]

I just heard rumours that if I got 3300's it would increase my run time to nearly 30 min???? I am running a stock Evader and I have hardwired the motor, I get around 8 min with 1800's, but 30 min?? Come on??? In Canadia I can get 1800's for just under $20 and 3300's are about $40 do you thingk it's worth it. If it's 30 min I definately think so.

[spreckenzy]

thirty minutes? with a 3300? i am in ..... anyone confirm this fact? will a 3300 battery give a stock evader have a run time of thirty minutes?


if that is true i will be the first to buy some new batteries. my tower hobbies 1500's last about eight to ten minutes ( dont know for sure) it is good for bashing in the back yard. one question .......if you did have a thirty minute run time wouldnt thing start getting dangerously hot? i think i burnt my photon motor by running four packs one after the other. I am not positve though. sorry for rambling just drank a bunch of coffee.

[k_sw31]

Well, 30 minutes is definatly a stretch, but I could see around 20 minutes, my promatch matched GP3300's peak at over 3700 mah :eek:

[orbitron]

I own a MRC Super Brain 819. I can't find any info on this charger, incluing MRC website will it charge 3300's?
K_sw31 - Don't you hate it when you can't spell definately (is that right??):confused:

[AznJunkie]

I'm running 3000 mah. I get like 25 mins with the stock motor. It's like 20 something mins with my MVP. Seems like I'm out playing with my car for quite a while.

I know I can do like 35 mins with a silver can in my ob4, but damn is it slow.

[AznJunkie]

orbitron - The MRC super brain 819 was made to charge NiCd if I’m not mistaken. I heard you can still use those types of chargers to charge NiMh. You just have to watch you temp of the battery pack. If the battery starts to get warm stop charging.

I just sent off my tax return. Looks like I’m getting $270. Can you say time for BL. :D

I just hope the evader can handle it. And yes I don't care if it kills my evader. There's a first for everything. :)

[k_sw31]

Well, it seems to me that the stampede has a bit more stouter (ack I can't spell that either!) tranny, well, with my basic 5300 my stampede's idler gear blew up in about a minute! :eek:

[AznJunkie]

Man that sucks. Which one is less powerful, the Lehner 4200 or 5300?

I might go with the novak, :rolleyes: since it's supposedly has less power than the other bl motors

[WVEvaderST]

I was wondering if the Crowd Pleazer NT body will fit on the Evader? Also what is a better street tire the Speed Hawg 2 or the Road Hawg 2? Thanks for any help..

[orbitron]

Aznjunkie - Thanks for the info. If I had that much tax return I would get a HPI RS4 MT. Those are some sexy.
Spreckenzie - Here is some other info on 3300s here (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&postid=385402#post385402)

[AznJunkie]

WVEvaderST - I don’t think the Crowd Pleazer NT body will fit the evader. The rear shock tower is further back than the evader.

Orbitron – No problem. I don’t need another rc car. Two is enough for me. I was going to get an MP3 receiver for my real car or BL with my tax return money.

[TeamMishap]

Think I want one of these JR XS3 synthesized FM radios. Saw someplace where they had them online for $160. Sounds like a scam price when the next lowest price is $219.

[pudder]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
WVEvaderST - I don’t think the Crowd Pleazer NT body will fit the evader. The rear shock tower is further back than the evader.

Orbitron – No problem. I don’t need another rc car. Two is enough for me. I was going to get an MP3 receiver for my real car or BL with my tax return money.

Associated bodies don't fit. Not even the T3. The "hump" for the front shock tower is too different than the Evader.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
Man that sucks. Which one is less powerful, the Lehner 4200 or 5300?

I might go with the novak, :rolleyes: since it's supposedly has less power than the other bl motors

Well, the will have less rpms, but more torque, even worse for the evader....

Yeah, if I were to get a BL system for a vader (stupid in the first place, but hey!) I'd go for the novak, it definatly looks the least powerful on the market right now....:)

[AznJunkie]

Originally posted by k_sw31

Yeah, if I were to get a BL system for a vader (stupid in the first place, but hey!)


Originally posted by AznJunkie

And yes I don't care if it kills my evader. There's a first for everything.

[k_sw31]

Yes i know, I know, but it seems like a pretty stupid waste of over 200$ if you dont have a car that can handle it...

[AznJunkie]

Hey man you never know until you try it. I have very good luck with my evader so far. Lets just hope that luck will be there when I get BL.

I want to be known as the Dumb Arse who put a BL in his evader :eek: :D

edit: Are you happy now Se_12alty. :) You arse! :p
Please note Se_12alty and AznJunkie are friends.

[Se_12alty]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
Hey man you never know until you try it. I have very good luck with my evader so far. Lets just hope that luck will be there when I get BL.

I want to known as the Dumb Arse who put a BL in his evader :eek: :D

good one junkie. btw its "I want to be known as the Dumb Arse...."

[spreckenzy]

aznjunkie i think you should try it. tell us what happens.


if the evader cant handle it(bl) what car can?

[k_sw31]

a t3

[losixxx213]

I bet an aluminum stampede or emaxx could handle the bl system

[AznJunkie]

The emaxx should be able to handle bl. Here’s some pix and vids of emaxx with bl. Heck they have a HPI pro 3 with bl. :eek:

http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/team_rc_cars.htm

[k_sw31]

Yeah, the E maxxs seem to take the brushless power ok, last time I was at my local track there were a couple of guys with BL stuff. One guy did break a shock tower on a hard landing, but these things looked pretty modded. This one guy had a custom made chassis wiht a T maxx tranny adpated to it, it was a work of art, not to mention 18 cells on some awesome BL system :D

[spreckenzy]

what would be the problem with running a bl in an evader?


that web page is awesome with those maxxs running bl's. the bl's are not that expensive either.......i am tempted to try one in an evader.

[Se_12alty]

supposidly the evader's tranny won't be able to handle the power of the BL system and in return you will have some stripped gears. and not to mention how brittle and flemsy the evader in its entireity. at those speeds in a crash you can buy a whole new car from replacements alone lol j/k. but who knows untile you try it right. Go For It Junkie!!!! :D :) :p :D :) :p :D :) :p :D :) :p

Originally posted by spreckenzy
what would be the problem with running a bl in an evader?

[orbitron]

The problem with running a BL in an evader is that you couldn't even see the truck to drive it. (except maybe blur lines)

[Se_12alty]

somebody needs glasses :cool: !!! lol j/k or the slipper will slip for so long you'll think that the car has gone really fast while in acctuality its in the same spot. causing you to have a loss of oxygen to your head in the moment of disbelief.

[orbitron]

I have come to a conclusion. There is no need to put a better motor in the evader, there is just too much open space where people drive them. In small areas the truck is too fast for me to control already (like my basement)lol. but seriously the only place I find it too slow is in the HUGE parking lot at the university that only has a few obstacles.

[pudder]

We've reached 100 pages!

[spreckenzy]

hooray for 100 pages too bad i have only been here for the last twenty-five but anyway 100 pages hooray

pudder what do you think about a brushless in an evader?

[pudder]

I think it would be wise to get a truck that can handle it first.

[AznJunkie]

Can’t you guys have a little faith in the evader!

I’m not looking raw power or insane speed. I want something with less maintenance and good speed. That’s why I going with novak. On their webpage, the esc has 6 different settings. I will probably use the sportsmen, which has limited rpm/acceleration.

I'll let ya know how good it is when I get it.

[bohemus]

WOW, who would have thought!

[grewst]

Originally posted by pudder
I think it would be wise to get a truck that can handle it first.

I agree
I have burned up the idler gear to many times to even consider running a hot motor in the evader.
Its sad when a 15T can burn up the tranny.

[orbitron]

I agree with AznJunkie it would be cool to have a motor that was more efficient and able to last longer without maintenance. The only problem is if the ESC could dumb down the motor enough. I would like longer run times with the same amount of juice going to the motor.

[k_sw31]

Well, you can always dial your throttle end point on your radio down to about 3/4 top speed :rolleyes:

And I think some of the more expensive escs have punch limiters and stuff....

[bohemus]

I was going to buy an intellipeak digital charger for my gp3300 nimh packs. Does anyone have any experience with this combination?

Will the intellipeak digital peak charge these cells without damage?:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[k_sw31]

It should, if the Intellipeak is rated for Nimh cells then you should be fine :)

[Namvet]

This I'm sure has been ask many times, but I ask again and hope to get some response from you.

Can I run BL motor in my ST?

If so what is recommended ?

Thanks

Namvet

[AznJunkie]

That’s what I been asking. Most people here think it’s foolish. The evader tranny is not the best, so it might not be up to the task. If you want to go BL then go with Novak or Team Orion. They use the less powerful magnets compare to the current BL motors.

I’m thinking about getting the Novak setup once I get my tax return money. Novak said their esc has 3 different power settings for their BL motor. One of the setting allows you to limit the torque and rpm. So with that setting I think it might work with the evader.

[Namvet]

I will stay with brush type motors. The AYES have it.

Namvet

[AznJunkie]

Why, oh god why!!! Brush motor is the devil! Show him the light god! j/k! :p

But really I want no maintenance. That’s why I want BL. I don’t have the worry about cleaning the motor and etc. That’s also why I left nitro. I want my BL dagnabit (if that’s really a word). :D

[Namvet]

I agree with you I would like to have a maintenance free motor for my ST. But until someone can show me how this can be done without incurring problems for the ST then I will stay with what I have.

I am not looking for more speed, just learning to handle this thing now, just wanted to not have to fool with the motor, but such is life.

"Be kind to animals"

Namvet

[Namvet]

I got my order from Tower Hobbies today for ST.

Alum. Blue Bulkhead
Alum. Blue Transmission Brace Rear
Pit Tech Deluxe Blue Stand
Motor Guard Blue
Deans Bulb Discharger.

Going to LHS Sat. to get new wheels, tiresand more batteries.

Looking for carrying Bag to fit ST and supplies, but have not found one. If you have one and your satisfied with it and it hold your truck, charger, tools and spare parts, PLK where you got it and a price if you rmember.

"Be kind to animals"

Namvet

[grewst]

Azn,,, after you go ahead and get your brushless,,, I hope you have an associated or losi to put it in after you fry your tranny..


Not to slam my evader to hard,, it is fine for stock or sportsman class racing or bashing...but until they fix that flexible rear end and add durability to the tranny. I would stay away from any hot mod motors.

IMO,,, If the stock ESC can't handle the motor then that motor doesn't belong in the truck..

[spreckenzy]

go for the brushless! never know till you try!

[AznJunkie]

Originally posted by spreckenzy
go for the brushless! never know till you try!

That’s what I been saying!! Well I borrowed a friend’s 11turn D4 motor and unlimited turn ESC. All I can say is wow. The speed is so nice, it’s so much faster. Speed is close to my old GT. And NO I didn’t kill my tranny YET! I will run it for a bit longer to see if it the tranny can handle it.

What I don’t get is why the tranny would blow. I mean the torque is good as my chameleon pro, but the top end speed is way better. Isn’t the torque that would kill the tranny and not the rpm. I mean stock motor are suppose to have more torque than mod motors. If we can run stock without any problems why can’t we run lower turn motors. That’s why I can’t put a BL cause of the torque. So correct me if I’m wrong.

Maybe my Evader can handle BL after all. :)

[pudder]

I really doubt the Evader will handle the brushless. I mean I do have faith in the truck, but I was stripping gears with a stock motor running 1500's. :(

Try it if you want, I am just giving my opinion.

[AznJunkie]

I know what you mean pudder. You’re giving me advice base on your own personal experience. So far I’m having good luck with my evader. I will try out the 11t some more and see if the tranny can handle it.

Once I get it, I’ll let you know how good it is. Hopefully I won’t have some bs problems where I would have to use my tax return money.

[k_sw31]

About the brushless-

I would not personally recommend it, but it's not my money (I wouldn't buy Bl if all I had was an evader...) so go for it if you want, it is 100% your call. With the updates I have heard on the novak system, they have put neo. magnets in them, but are pretty low power compared to other brushless setups, though I still htink the power will kill the evader tranny, someone has to try it :p

Also take a look at the orion (BL) motors, they have standard ferrite magnets, but I think you will be able to upgrade them to neo. if you want to later...

If you are going to purchase either of these setups, I say wait for a review from rcca, that will atleast give you an idea of how much power it has...roughly...

:)

[Namvet]

How do you remove the e-clips from the hindge pins? I was doing some mods last night on my ST and that was the hardest part of the whole procedure.

I destroyed a couple of them and was unable to put them back on.

I will have to get some more. Please whats everyones secret to remove this and reusing them ?

I appreicate the help.

Be Kind to animals

Namvet

[pudder]

I use a special tool. I took a slothead (flathead) screwdriver and ground down the end so it has about 1mm of a flat spot on the end. I put it in the little grooves in the eclip and pull them off easily. I have never wrecked an eclip since.

[pudder]

I use a special tool. I took a slothead (flathead) screwdriver and ground down the end so it has about 1mm of a flat spot on the end. I put it in the little grooves in the eclip and pull them off easily. I have never wrecked an eclip since.

[Namvet]

BINGO!!!!

I think you gave me exactly what I need. Thanks alot Pudder have you have to replace any of you e-clips? Was you able to get them from your LHS or internet order?

One more question, anything apsecial to use to put them back on, tore up my finger getting them back on.


Be kind to animals

Namvet

[k_sw31]

What I do-

First, find a small dental tool that they use to pick your teeth, you can usually get them at hardware stores. Next, make sure it has a thin, flat end. Use this it to stick it ( they are called E clips because of the 'E' shape generally) in one of the spaces on the E clip, then you can gently pry it off. Make sure to have your thumb or rag or something behind so incase it launches off, it will be stopped so you wont lose it.

[pudder]

I bought replacements (lost some) from my tracks Pro-Shop but your LHS should have them if not look on Tower Hobbies or something...

I get all my stuff cept paint and decals from my track. :)

(one of the nice shelves) :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC03069.JPG

[Namvet]

Thanks for the info on the eclip removal. Let me ask this the wire coming from the engine connecting to what I call the lead wire that goes to the battery hook-up wire, is the engine wire soldered or simply snapped together with the lead wire?

Thanks

Be kind to animals

Namvet

[pudder]

I am not sure what you are trying to say, but are you asking are the motor leads just soldered or snapped on at the plugs? If that is what you mean, they are just snapped together. The wires on the motor are soldered.

[AznJunkie]

The lead wire from the ESC to your motor is two pieces. One part is on the motor (that is solder). Then the other part is connected to the esc. Where they connect (in the middle) you can pull that out. Look at pix below

[AznJunkie]

I hope this helps!

[pudder]

Wow, thats an amazing graphic. ;)

[AznJunkie]

LOL :p

You like my MS Paint don't ya!

[pudder]

Oh yes, so much better than what you can do with Photoshop ;)

[Namvet]

Thanks AznJunkie, that is exactly what I was asking and your drawing helped agreat deal.

Thanks

Be kind to animals

Namvet

[spreckenzy]

my my my..... we have a budding artist here:D

that is a great drawing....




busted my idler gear with a stock motor and a 1500 battery. makes me think twice about the use of a brushless.

someone said "if the stock esc cant handle the motor then it shouldnt be in the truck." there may be a hint of truth in that.

i wonder if a metal idler gear would be possible? that only leaves the diff plastic. would it help? if it would where could you get one?

[pudder]

Traxxas makes a metal idler for the stampede. You could get the part number from Traxxas or order from Tower.

[grewst]

spreck-- I tried to tell you:rolleyes:

I mean the stock esc can handle down to a 17T anyways which is plenty for stock or sportsman. After burning up several idler gears with a 15T I figured Iwould just reinstall the stock speedo and never take it out again.

On the other hand, I have had limited succes with my evader in the stock class.... Now if they would just get rid of the rear chassis flex( I swear I can see it bounce as its going down the road) and offer some graphite parts... we would be in real business

[AznJunkie]

I haven’t busted my idler gear yet. Right now I’m running a 11T motor so far so good. Make sure your slipper isn't too tight.

[spreckenzy]

ya that is what i forgot to say. I think that slipper was way to tight. i never heard it slip for a long time then the idler gear broke . so that may have3 been my fault. btw i adjusted the slipper properly now.

[pudder]

I'm not flaming here but...

I think the truck should be built strong enough that it can handle a powerful motor with the slipper locked. I mean look at the T3, I have been hard on the thing and broke one part, nothing in the gearbox. I have heard of people running brushless with the slippers locked, and theie CVD's explode before the gears.

I don't mean to offend anyone, but this is how I feel and have felt as long as I have owned DuraTrax vehicles.

The warranty is great too, but I bet with all of the money they spend on replacing peoples parts, they could have made a good plastic, and they would have more, and a lot more satisfied customers.

[spreckenzy]

i dont have a t3 so what is the difference between the t3 tranny and the evader tranny? quality of the plastic? diff? how could i replace plastic gears with metal?

i looked on tower's site and traxxass doesnt make a metal idler for the stampede. i dont even know if it would work anyway.

does anyone think i could have an idler gear made out of metal by a machine shop or something to that effect?

[pudder]

The T3 tranny and Evader tranny are basically the same. If you took a T3 gearbox case, you can put it and screw it in right in the place of the Evaders, but you can't use a T3's because the outdrives are smaller on the T3. The gears are a lot higher quality too. You can use a T3 idler in the Evader, but you just have to drill out the middle of the gear to allow the Evaders larger bearings to fit. :)

I also know for a fact that there is an aluminum idler made for the stampede too.

Take a look here: http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/aluminum-idler/es-aluminum-idler.html

[spreckenzy]

pudder do you know if that al idler is a direct fit into the evader?

[pudder]

I highly doubt it. You can check if you want...

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by spreckenzy
ya that is what i forgot to say. I think that slipper was way to tight. i never heard it slip for a long time then the idler gear broke . so that may have3 been my fault. btw i adjusted the slipper properly now.

I agree with pudder. The evader is pretty much a truck that was ment to be someone's first truck in 'the hobby', so it should've been designed with the fact in mind that the truck wont be set up perfectly all the time. Besides, with my t3 (running lehner 5300 and touching around 40-45) I have been running the slipper totally locked for 10 runs (with around 10-15 mins of runtime :D) and the dam thing can pop wheelies at half throttle! (when traction is good :D)

[spreckenzy]

is the t2 a good truck? will it handle a brushless? (i know this is the evader forum but you guys know your stuff)

[pudder]

Yes it is a good truck If setup right, it is also a good race truck. It will handle a brushless, I think the gearbox is identical with the T3.

[spreckenzy]

i can get a t2 rolling chassis with spare parts and 2 bodies for 75$ is that a good deal?

[pudder]

I'd take the deal if I were you.

[spreckenzy]

got it for 75$ shipped thanks for the help pudder!

[pudder]

Also if you did want to order some more parts, you could just get the part number from www.rc10.com and order them. Team Associated still carries parts for vehicles as old as the original rc10 buggy.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, that T2 should be pretty good, plus you can get cool blue rpm arms for it :D

[spreckenzy]

thanks pudder

[grewst]

I let my 8 yr old drive an original rc10 buggy,, and she drives it like she stole it... If it can stand up to that abuse then I know a T2 can.


BTW,,, yes I run my diff very tight, and slipper is set tight but not locked.. If I don't the diff is always slipping.
So am I doing it wrong????
It seems like I am always tightning down the diff.

[pudder]

I don't think you are doing anything wrong. I always had to tighten down my diff too, it was annoying.

[Namvet]

I went today to my LHS and told him I wanted new wheels and tire to fit myt ST. Heres what I got.

Proline Road Rage II 2.2" Tires
HPI #2125 and 2160 Front and Rear Chrome Wheels (Super MT)
complete with Universal Super star truck wheel front and rear adapters.

Now the guy says these will fit on the Evader ST.

I glued the wheels and inserted several adapters and none seem to work. They go on but there is a lot of play in the wheel, its plain to see that the fit isn't there.

Any help from anyone would be appreciated. If I can get theses to work, I called the LHS and he said to bring them back in and we would work something out.

Thanks

Namvet

Be Kind to Animals

[AznJunkie]

Namvet – I had the problem with the HPI SS front wheels for my GT. There was always a little play with the front wheels. I think it might be ok, but still check with your LHS.

Right now there’s no metal idler gear for the evader. However I’m trying to get someone from another forum (hobbytalk) to make me a metal idler. In order to use it you would need to use an AE B3 diff gear and rings.

I know it sounds like to much of a hassle, but it will be all worth it to me. :p

[pudder]

I have had good luck with the HPI rims, I never really have had any problems with play either.

[k_sw31]

...and if you were able to use a B3 diff gear, you could get that in aluminum...the brushless might be possible!

Namvet, I have found the hpi rims need the adapters that has a little nub on the top of them so they do not wobble, that way the adapters fit the rim properly. In the future, I would suggest you get rims that aren't for Hpi cars, they always seemed to fit awkward on my t3 too...

[Namvet]

Are we talking about Super MT HPI wheels with the adapter provided to make them universal fitting?

I swear, I can't imagine how you run these 2125 and 2160 chrome wheels on the ST.

Please fill me in.

Be Kind to Animals

namvet

[AznJunkie]

I was talking about 2125 and 2160. Those are universal. You can fit those on just about any ST. The front has bearing adapters to fits different cars. For some reason my GT front tires had some play. I guess a washer would of help. Oh well I don’t have the GT anymore.

The rear I didn’t have any problems. In fact I’m using the same rims with Proline street hawg on my Evader and I don’t have any play in the rear.

Make sure you push it in all the way.

[k_sw31]

Oh, I'm sorry, I must be thinking of the rims that come with the HPI rs4 mt...

[Namvet]

Thanks everyone, my wheels finally went on. I rolled my truck awhil in the house and it seems to be fine. If the rain ever stops I will take it to a parking lot at the college and see what it does.

Thanks again

Be Kind to Animals

namvet

[tamiyajoe]

where can i see the T3 RTR Special Edition?i saw bak on page 97 that guy was talkin about it, where can i see it?

[AznJunkie]

Here you go tamiyajoe https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC7008

[AznJunkie]

Ok guys about the tranny. For $30 I’m getting a metal idler gear and modified diff gear. So my tranny should be able to handle BL.

If it won’t I have a back up plan. I trade my touring car for a B3. The B3 should be able to handle BL. It uses the same tranny as the T3 right?? So it should be ok.

[pudder]

Yes the B3 has the same gearbox as T3. The only thing about buggies is they don't handle rough terrain as good as the trucks. :)

[grewst]

If anybody is interested. I am looking to sell of my evaders. I though I would give you guys first shot

I have a used RTR stock, but with a stock motor

A recently rebuilt hopped up rolling chassis w/ Blue alum bulkhead, alum front hub carriers, TI hinge pins,blue plastic bumper front and rear, blue battery brace, blue shock mounts

plus I have all kinds of extra parts. enough new plastics to build a whole new roller, new king pins and hinge pins, new jep front brace,, whole extra tranny new(it drags, I think a bearing isn't seated right, but its new and never ran, just assembled)
+ more I can't think of now.

I don't have pics yet but soon

I would like to sell it all in one package deal.
If anyones interested and would like to make a realistic offer
email me

grewst@yahoo.com

[pudder]

Be sure to post in the Forsale/Trade forum because people in this one already have the truck, so it would brobably sell better there. :)

Are you still planning on staying in the Evader forum to give advice and stuff?

[grewst]

I'll still stop in from time to time.

I understand everyone in this forum already has the truck.. Thats why I posted here first.. who better then owners of the evader to be interested in buying more evaders.. perfect for racers and bashers who want a back up, and all those extra NIP parts, and a hopped up roller..

I just have to make room for my T3's... I don't really want to sell them...I just don't have room for all of my trucks(2 evaders, 2 rc10's, 3 T3's, soon to be another T3, and a TC3). I also kinda need to make some cash for better electronics and equipment.. It's hard to race competive on a budget


I guess I could have worse hobbies( Oh,, I mean addictions:D :D )

BTW- A B3 might not handle rough stuff as well as a T3... but it is lighter, faster, and more manuverable then a T3... IMO

[pudder]

I know that about the b3vs t3, but for racing when you get used to a buggy you can pull faster laps with it than with a truck. :)

[Namvet]

Does TA sell a RTR 3b? I would like to own one, but I come to a complete stop when I have to put it together.

[AznJunkie]

Sorry Namvet I don’t see any RTR B3 kits. I doubt they will make one, since the B4 is coming out and the B3 will be discontinued.

What you can do is search the Buy/Sell/Trade forum here and see if anyone is selling a RTR B3.

[k_sw31]

I dont seem to see a RTR B3, but I could be wrong. I think you should take a serious look at the RTR T3 special edition, it looks like a great value, and even a competition stock motor! :D

[spreckenzy]

check out my hop ups:

[k_sw31]

How do you like those losi tires, they look pretty neat :)

PS, I here is a better trimmed picture....:)

[spreckenzy]

i like the losi tires they work well on multiple surfaces. great for bashing.

how did you trim that pic? i tried to make it smaller so it wouldnt take forever to download on this thread.

[k_sw31]

I just copied and pasted that into paint, then drug a box over the image, copied it, and pasted it into a blank thing, :)

[Namvet]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I dont seem to see a RTR B3, but I could be wrong. I think you should take a serious look at the RTR T3 special edition, it looks like a great value, and even a competition stock motor! :D

Can you direct me to site that might show this truck?

Thanks

[AznJunkie]

Seems like people aren’t reading my post about the RTR T3 special edition.

Third time posting link:

Link to the RTR T3 special edition https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC7008

[TeamMishap]

Man, where'd you get the sweet controller that's in the picture?

Seriously...Are the aluminum towers from CNC man?

[spreckenzy]

yep the shock towers are from cncman.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Namvet
Can you direct me to site that might show this truck?

Thanks

Yeah, its the link Aznjunkie gave you....It is basically a team built T3 with electronics, I bought the team built (non rtr, but still built) when it first came out, and still have it now, it is an awesome truck :D

[Namvet]

AznJunkie and K_sw31 thanks alot.

This time I copied the site and have on file. 3rd time is always a charm.


Thanks again

Namvet

[grewst]

Unless your really put off by building a kit,,, I wouldn't worry about the B3 being a kit or not... Associated probably has the best building instructions on the market..IMHO

My first kit was a Team T3,, and it went together so well and easily that I doubt I will ever get another RTR

[pudder]

I really like the look of the Losi tires. Maybe I'll get some for one of my trucks sometime. Maybe for my pede...

[k_sw31]

yeah but they might break, you know, like the shock oil ;)

[pudder]

The only products I ever plan on buying from Losi are their tires. I actually like some of them, still, there is about only 2 types of tires i'd buy from them. :)

[k_sw31]

the blue ones are cool :)

[Namvet]

Originally posted by grewst
Unless your really put off by building a kit,,, I wouldn't worry about the B3 being a kit or not... Associated probably has the best building instructions on the market..IMHO

My first kit was a Team T3,, and it went together so well and easily that I doubt I will ever get another RTR

Without bending your ear to much, could you tell me whats involved in the Kit? I always thought that you had to be real mechanical to put one of these together, please inquiring mind wants to know.

Thanks

Be Kind to Animals

Namvet

[k_sw31]

Namvet- It is actually not that hard at all. Really the major tasks involved in building the kit is assembling the transmission, and really the only hard thing is building the differential, but, the instructions are very clear and articulate, plus they have drawings and pictures to help you along. Plus when something is wrong with your car, you'll know how to take it apart, rebuilt it, etc. and you will have an easier time locating the problem. :)

[pudder]

I like kits. They are so much fun. Most kits have good instructions. AE has the best manual I have seen so far, and it is hard to screw up making a kit from them. I would say the hardest part to a kit is doing the shocks perfect. I hate when I have too much oil/air. All the rest is easy for me.

[tamiyajoe]

i go out of my way to buy kits. i love them. (just not the shock oil crap)i got a ta04-s (4 sale) a trf414m2 chassis (b/t/s forum, 4 sale) an evader and a clod. kits also give you an idea of everything on your car in case you break sumtin

[grewst]

I couldn't have said any of that better...

If your looking at a B3.. The manuel will walk you thru it all..
Like it was mentioned above The Diff, The shocks, And I found mounting tires the first time a slight challange. But if anything breaks on your buggy you know how to fix it.:)
The only thing I don't like about Associated are those stupid little hex screws.. but those are standard for all associated kit's and RTR's

The manuel is so user friendly.. the kit was together before I knew it.. It was together in less then 48 hrs taking my time. That was my first kit.. I've done 2 more since then. I still doubt I will ever get a RTR again...

Can you put together a plastic model??? Can you turn screws???
If you said yes to both questions then your ready for a kit.. just take your time and read the manual before you start.

The only downfall to a kit is you still need all the electronics to make it run(radio set, motor,esc, and a pinion)..
After a while in the hobby that won't be a problem:rolleyes:

If you have any major questions PM me.. I'll try to help..

[Namvet]

Thanks to all. I will give it some more consideration.

Be Kind to Animals

Namvet

[pudder]

I just bought a good set of Hex drivers when I got my T3, it solved any problems with getting even the smallest hex screws in. :)

[Se_12alty]

if you are talking about allen wrenches you can also dermal them down. but i agree when working with r/c cars a good set of tools is a must.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, definatly pick up some good hex drivers...they are life savers :D

[pudder]

I have the Racers Edge ones, they are nice and have a lifetime warranty. The only part I don't like is they have a lack of grip and my hands are usually slippery.... from oil.... from rc's... so i bought the optional rubber grips, helps a lot.

[grewst]

I am still using those allen wrenches,,, A good set of hex wrenches is near the top of my to get list... I have been looking at hudy, integy, and associated.... are there any other good brands I'm missing???

[TeamMishap]

Took the Evader for a run today and richarded something in the tranny up good. It won't move at all. Looks like Tower will be receiving an order soon.

[grewst]

team- if the motor spins but it just sits there I would say its the idler gear.. IMO


Hey all,, speaking of idler gear... The tranny looks so close to either a stealth or even Losi's tranny that parts from them might work... Has anyone tried there parts??

[pudder]

Originally posted by grewst
I am still using those allen wrenches,,, A good set of hex wrenches is near the top of my to get list... I have been looking at hudy, integy, and associated.... are there any other good brands I'm missing???

I mentioned above, I use the Racers Edge ones, I like them. I think BoLINK also has their own brand too. The Integy ones are also very nice.

[rcracerguy]

I have the Integy wrenches. I like them for the price,but I have a couple knureled handle ones from Dynimite. I like them better becuase you get better grip,but they also cost more. Depends on what you want to spend. Integy's were the best for the price I thought.

[k_sw31]

Dont get the RPM ones, I found the smaller ones (1 mm, .05 inch) strip pretty easily...

[Namvet]

[Namvet]

I found a set on Integy Web site called Euro Ti-Nitride Hex wrench 6 piece set, comes with 0.05,1/16,3/32,5/64,1.5mm and 2.5mm, will this set fit everything on my ST?

They also have the 2.0mm, if I need it.

The price for the set seems very reasonable, and I have been looking for a set.

PLM

Thanks

Be Kind to Animals

Namvet

[TeamMishap]

My idler was in three pieces and had teeth strewn throughout the tranny case.

Too bad there are no direct fit idler gears out there for the Evader.

(laughs) Took me three hours to get one of the danged bearings off the top shaft.

[new2this]

well, after some careful deliberation with my mom, i orderd the evader st based on this forum and many other reviews. I cant wait to get it andtear it up. The only thing is though that i dont have a charger .....damn....can i use those ones that come with the cheap radioshack cars? HELP

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Namvet
I found a set on Integy Web site called Euro Ti-Nitride Hex wrench 6 piece set, comes with 0.05,1/16,3/32,5/64,1.5mm and 2.5mm, will this set fit everything on my ST?

They also have the 2.0mm, if I need it.

The price for the set seems very reasonable, and I have been looking for a set.

PLM

Thanks

Be Kind to Animals

Namvet

Those should be a good set, Ti-nitride should be really hard :)


new2this- I wouldn't suggest using a radioshack charger, you'll have no punch and it will take forever to charge. Look at the new prophet series from dynamite, they look pretty good, they are peak chargers and safe for nicad and nimh :)

[pudder]

Defiantly get a low end peak charger, or atleast a dial charger. The crappy wall chargers won't do good at all, and in the long run probably screw over your batts.

[cummins driver]

My friend was thinking about getting one and i was wondering if it would be a good beginner truck,and if you can find parts for them at most hobby shops?I just got a traxxas electric stampede(my first hobby class electric) and i like it a lot,and he just kind of wanted a hobby class electric rc too,so any help would be appreciated.:)

[orbitron]

The evader is pretty good. But if you are going to thrash, it would probably be better to go for a Traxxas Rustler. The RTR Evader is best bang for your buck for sure, but the Rustler can handle a bigger bang. Oh yeah, the Evader body is a lot easier to look at.

[TeamMishap]

Cummins - Not sure how the rest of the world is, but I have to order all my Evader parts from Tower. The local HobbyTown is a Losi dealer. Duratrax and Losi are pretty much enemies.

New2this - There are some good chargers out there for cheap. The MRC Superbrain 959, goes for $45-$50. Charges 3-8 cells. Charges NiCD and NiMH. Lotta people like em. Lotta people don't. I have an old Dynamite Vision Peak. Only charges 6-7 cell NICD packs, but I've never had a problem with it. They go $40ish. Duratrax Digital Pirahna looks real nice for $50ish, but I haven't heard good or bad about it.

[cummins driver]

My friend has done no research on rc's at all except my tower magazine,and i kind of like the evader myself,but seeing as my hobby shop stocks a lot of traxxas stuff,and i wanted good ground clearence(and low price and durability)i got the stampede:D .If he gets the truck,it will most likley never see a race track,and all he will probably do is race me,and just bash around with it.He is going to get an ultimate combo of some kind,and he doesent want to spend much.Should i try to convince him to get a rustler?Or any other truck ideas not over $220 for a ultimate combo would help to.Thanks guys.:) :cool:

[spreckenzy]

i suggest you do not get an ultimate combo from tower. i just got back into rc and got an ultimate combo. i was not happy with the charger. and definitly not happy with the battery pack.

if i were you or him i would just get the rtr evader and research and buy a good charger and battery.

for a charger you want something of quality and charge nimh and nicd. (you never know you might want to try a nimh) i got an intellipeak charger for about $56 from tower. trust me it is worth the extra $15-$20. a cheap charger is an expensive charger.

for a battery i would get at least an 1800mah battery pack. those tower hobbies 1500's with a stock motor give me about a 6 minute run time. i must admit though i am definitly not a battery expert. and remember a cheap battery is an expensive battery.

just my 2cents

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by cummins driver
My friend has done no research on rc's at all except my tower magazine,and i kind of like the evader myself,but seeing as my hobby shop stocks a lot of traxxas stuff,and i wanted good ground clearence(and low price and durability)i got the stampede:D .If he gets the truck,it will most likley never see a race track,and all he will probably do is race me,and just bash around with it.He is going to get an ultimate combo of some kind,and he doesent want to spend much.Should i try to convince him to get a rustler?Or any other truck ideas not over $220 for a ultimate combo would help to.Thanks guys.:) :cool:

I think he should just get a stampede...the pede is waaaaayyy more durable than the evader in stock form, and that way you guys will be equally matched, can share parts, and help each other out easily, etc. :)

[pudder]

I agree with ksw_31. As a pede and evader owner myself, I can say that the pede is more durable, plus as KSW mentioned, you can share parts and all that.

[TeamMishap]

Go for the EMAXX! Just joking. I really like my Evader. Never had one single problem with it until I put a hotter motor in it. More speed equals more momentum. More momentum equals broken Evader. Wrecked it good a few times with the Photon and nothing broke.

I agree, if you and your roadie have the same truck, there'll be no argument that one has a better ride and that being the reason one wins over the other. You'll break similar stuff at similar times being able to fill Tower's coffers a little less by combining orders, using coupons, and saving on postage.

Only thing with the Evader...you can't beat the StressTech guarantee. I've replaced nearly every piece of plastic on it for nada!

[orbitron]

Mishap - I know what you mean about the bearings.... Evil peices.

My brother is going to get a truck this summer. It is down to the Evader, Rustler, and Stampede. What's the diff between the two Traxxas trucks? Does anybody own them both?

[k_sw31]

TeamMishap- True, the pede doesn't have a 1 year warranty, but it doesn't need it. All I have done to pede really was break a front C-hub, but you still cant tell because the kingpin is holding it together :D


I have owned both the rusty and the pede. I would definatly take the pede over the rusty though, since both of them are not all that raceble, and since he will probably just be bashing, go for the pede. The pede probably has about 2 inches more ground clearance, making it better for bashing and easy wheelies :D

[pudder]

KSW- what do you mean the traxxas trucks are not raceable? I have a good friend and he raced a Rustler, and now a Bandit, and I tell you he keeps up to me pretty well, mostly seconds place unless he has problems. THough the Traxxas trucks arent meant to race and I would never race them unless there was a specific class...


Basically the differences between the pede and rustler are these:

They are the same truck, but they have different chassis, tires and bodies, that is about it.

I would defiantly take the pede over rustler. I have a pede, awsome truck.

[cummins driver]

I really like my pede,and i told him that would probably be a good truck for him,but he acted like he didnt want the same thing i had:confused: ? I think he said he didnt want to copy me and i told him i didnt care if he did.I think hes going for looks more than anything,like i said,hes done almost no research.He was also looking at the tamiya king blackfoot,but he didnt think it would go fast:rolleyes: .I told him it probably went fairly fast,and that the evader wasnt as durable as the rustler,and that he would have to order his parts(dont think the lhs stocks them),but he didnt seem to care:confused: ?I think the evader would be ok for him,but i dont think he knows how to work on them much.I could help him with that though since i built my pede as a kit,and know some about them.Thanks for the help so far:D .Any more help is still appreciated.I need someone to bash with:D :cool: ;) :) .

[k_sw31]

cummins driver- I sorta know how you feel, my friend still would rather have an evader over a pede (both bone stock) even though he has only had a first generation evader and a bandit (ugh ;)). Some people just like the looks of stuff, not how it performes or whatever....I'm tired....:)

[pudder]

That's what I like about my T3, it performs excellent and looks great too!

[cummins driver]

Thanks guys:D .

[grewst]

SWEET,,, I'm Stoked..

I just bought a set of associated hex drivers.:) :)
While I was spending cash... I just couldn't seem to resist the temptation..
I bought a Cobra Pro Comm Lathe too..:D :D :D
(So much for my tax return tho:rolleyes: )
At least my motors will still love me,, :p

[new2this]

i ordered my evader from tower hobbies and it came in 2! days. wow thats service......too bad i forgot a charger hmmm what was i thinking

[grewst]

New2- Hopefully you remembered the batteries:) ,, J/K. You should be able to pick up a charger at a LHS for a reasonable price.. That is if theres one around (closest one to me is about 70 miles).. Good luck,, hope you don't have to wait to long..

grewst

[pudder]

Oh well, people forget things, once I forgot to take my radio to racing.

[Namvet]

I need to replace my antenna tube.

Does anyone know if they make one that can take the punishment of roll-overs and wrong side up landings?



Thanks

Namvet

Be Kind to Animals

[cummins driver]

I have an EXTREME RC CARS magazine that has a racers edge advertisement in it that advertises anti roll antenas for $13 a piece.They come in different colors,but i went to the www.racers-edge.com website,and i couldnt find them,but you could give it a try.;)

[pudder]

Look under the Traxxas Stampede/Bandit/Rustler replacement parts at www.towerhobbies.com and you will find a Blue Traxxas Antenna. I use this on on all of my cars and it is awsome, has taken some wicked rolls even outside in the cold. The Racers Edge one is also good, but I like the Traxxas one because it is blue.

Here is the link to the Traxxas one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LP4079&P=X

Also, if you don't want to order it from Tower, I could look in my Stampede manual and find the part number for you.

[orbitron]

Namvet - You could put an internal antenna on your truck like I did. (I didn't invent the idea) This way you have no antenna sticking up out of the truck and it will not ever break again. Plus it will make your truck look nicer.
1. Use a milk carton for the plastic.
2. Take a long look at these pics.
Front (http://hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=4850127c-60ae-756d-5f26-66e06b9c691f&size=lg) Left (http://hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=27a249ef-36c4-2aa4-7578-6d36222ceb46&size=lg) Right (http://hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=5b6737b8-6917-6e76-5f1f-47247cc14efe&size=lg) Under (http://hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=4ec01487-1807-2a72-547c-3ac94a661000&size=lg)
3. Look at this (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17034&perpage=20&pagenumber=72) .
4. Adjust to your liking.

I have tested this to about 30 meters. I would have tested it further, but it was cold out and my wheels were not right for the snow.

[pudder]

You can also make a bit smaller, cleaner looking one out of lexan. They are fine for racing, I wouldn't bother though...

[k_sw31]

I like the associated antenna tubes, I still have the original tube that I got with my T3 2 or 3 years ago :)

I also use the little micro rs4 atenna tubes because they are shorter so they dont stick up that much, because it is SO hard to trim a regular one ;)

[pudder]

Basically I like the Traxxas one because it is blue and strong!

[grewst]

You could go to your LHS and just ask for there most flexible antenna tube. Thats what I did:) I think it is was made by racers edge(its just a standard one).

[orbitron]

I chose a milk carton because it's free. I don't have scraps of lexan hanging about. But I drink a lot of milk so... Mine was mainly for esthetics, but it does work for rollovers too.

[Namvet]

pudder, could you please post the stock number for the Traxxas blue antenna tube.

I think I can pick it up at my LHS.

Thanks everyone.

Namvet
Be Kind to Animals.

[dantheman59]

We raced the Evader truck for quite a few months and eventually upgraded the electronics to become competitive. The first upgrade was to a P2Kpro motor and then to a Novak C2 speed control. After I gave up on replacing gears in the stock steering servo we upgraded to a metal gear Hitec. My son, the driver, who was 10 at the time did quite well with the Evader at first and even took second place in a novice point series race.

However, it became apparent that the Evader was not up to the rigors of offroad racing and we were breaking something every week! The one good thing about all of the breakage was that I gained confidence with wrenching on r/c cars and was later able to take on the assembly of a Stampede and Matt Francis Losi XXXT.

The good electronics were transferred to the XXXT and now the Evader skeleton sits there without electronics or wheels. I am tempted to get the Evader back into running shape so my son's friends can practice with him but I wonder if the plastic parts are any better than they used to be? Also, can you recommend any hop ups for the transmission gears? I read where the slipper had been upgraded by Duratrax, which is a good thing!

One thing in particular that's bugging me is that the last time we raced it the pin that holds together the dogbone and the axle came out. The lhs didn't have a replacement and didn't know which part to suggest. Sure, they wanted to sell me a new dogbone/axle set. Believe it or not I took a body clip, broke off a piece, stuck it in the hole and bent it so the clip stayed in and didn't brush up against anything. It made it through the main race!

Any help will be appreciated.

Dan

[pudder]

Hmm, I think you need to get rid of the XXXT and get a real truck like a T3...:p

Anyways, Namvet, here is the Traxxas antenna tube:

1726-Antenna Tube...........$1.00

(from the manual)


(not a Losi fan)

[Namvet]

Thanks for the Traxxas part number.

Namvet

Be Kind to Animals

[AznJunkie]

Ok, people I got my metal idler and modified diff today. I have pix. I'm not going to put them in yet. I want to get my BL first and try it in the Evader to see if the stock tranny can handle it. Once it (if it does) fry I'll put in the hop ups. :D

[k_sw31]

You should probably put it in and run the new gears real quick, just to make sure everything works, instead of learing that something needs to be changed after you dont have a tranny anymore ;)

Plus it wont be a perfect fit so it would be good to 'break the gears in' before running it on super high rpms :)

[AznJunkie]

The guy who made it already has them in his evader. So it should fit fine. Just by hand testing it seems very smooth. I think it will be ok. I'm still waiting on some parts before I can put it in. I guess I'll just put it in when I get the parts.:D

[grewst]

When you fry your tranny with your BL.. Just remember I said "I told you so",,, LOL:cool:


If it doesn't fry more power to you brutha..

How much for that metal idler gear anyways??? I'm semi interested.. email or pm me about it...

[k_sw31]

Yeah, it will be interesting to see how fast, if it does, fry your tranny. And it will be fun to see what happens with your first collision :p

[AznJunkie]

LOL :p

It's to late for that. http://www.altimas.net/forum/images/smilies/pat.gif I just fried my tranny. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/togo.gif So go ahead and say it. “I told you so.” Well looks like I will put in my new tranny parts. :D I guess I didn't set my slipper correctly. Oh well.

Just gotta get my diff ring then I will have my new tranny. It cost me $30 for the metal idler and Mod diff.

[k_sw31]

I told you so :p

[pudder]

I think those are AE gears he is using, they should hold up then ;)

But... then your tranny case will explode.

Jokes.

[Se_12alty]

thats what i told him.


Originally posted by pudder
But... then your tranny case will explode.

Jokes.

[Se_12alty]

oh yeah i forgot!

[AznJunkie]

Se_12alty don't be http://www.altimas.net/forum/images/smilies/davey.gif

http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/monkes.gif

[Se_12alty]

http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/ups/chaos/big1.gif oh no not the davey smilie!http://www.altimas.net/forum/images/smilies/davey.gif

[k_sw31]

I guess someone found all those smiley sites then http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/contrib/icw/005.gif

[Se_12alty]

http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/cwm/big/Duhard.gif der huck i sure did!
Originally posted by k_sw31
I guess someone found all those smiley sites then http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/contrib/icw/005.gif

[pudder]

This one's my personal favorite...

[pudder]

This one's my personal favorite...

[pudder]

This one's my personal favorite...

[AznJunkie]

Triple post!

Here are my favs.

http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/strain.gif http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/otq.gif

[jasonw]

First tiem posting here. I went through a couple of pages and wanted to comment. 1st Pudder. I dont know if my truck is maybe a newer model than your but My ball diff was great out of the box. Had to adjust it after wearing it in and had trouble as it was my first ball diff. Motor conectors in my truck are already solderd to the motor also servo safer was tight is anything I actualy brock a servo arm alreay. Never had a problem yet with the pinion set screw. Going to paint the ghear cover "good recomendation. Another pointer is When you are puting the truck together make sure you shave down the top of he servo arm. If you dont it will rub up front and cause you steerign to get jamed in the middle of a race. Dose anyone have the factory maunual seting they can email to me? I lost my manual. Tanks in advance. Anyone neer Ione California want to race?

[AznJunkie]

Jasonw go here for the manual: http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/index.html (You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader)

Welcome to RCCA Evader ST Forum. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/bigwave.gif

As for the servo arm. It’s better to just replace that. I broke mine and replace it with a Futaba arm and I haven’t broke it ever since. The Futaba arm is straight so it won’t rub on the brace part.

The diff on the evader isn’t to bad. It’s the idler gear. That sucka will blow up on you. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/flame.gif It won't really blow up, but it's weak. It can strip easily.

[pudder]

Stupid tripple post, I only hit the button once.

[grewst]

ENOUGH SMILES ALREADY,,,,, LMAO

I replaced my servo horn with one from a XXT steering assembly kit,, no problems since.. Its practically a direct replacement.. I broke 5 horns before I did...

Yep the idler gear is junk,, And the whole diff assembly needs to be snugged down from time to time.. Don't lock the slipper or you'll be sorry,, I was...

Actually the only part I have broke in a long time(4 months),, was the front body mount from landing on my lid (that makes 4 now)


I Love tax returns,,,, Its like chrismas in Feb.. :D :D :D
UPS man just dropped of a big box of goodies..

[TeamMishap]

Saying idlers explode is NOT an overstatement. When mine went, I found it in 4 big chunks and teeth all over the gearbox. Only thing missing was the bang!

[what_up_kid18]

what is the website with all of those smile faces?:confused:

[spreckenzy]

dont worry about the smilie face those things are kinda annoying almost all the time. sorry for hating.

[geo8498]

After replacing three front body mounts and three front shock towers, this is what I decided to do.

[orbitron]

That's innovation! I think I solved the problem by buying a Graphite XX-T shock tower and front body mount. It fits perfectly. I only did it on thurs. but I'll let you know how it works.

[what_up_kid18]

Does anyone know whats the torque for the stock evader servo(oz./in)?:confused:

[what_up_kid18]

also, AznJunkie, can you pm or e-mail me about those metal gears?
:)

[pudder]

I think the servo has around 40-49 oz/in of torque

[rcracerguy]

I'll post this on here since there is more people. I have a Evader bx but it should be the same. My problem is I can't keep the steering set stright it seems. It will be perfect then you turn hard one way it pulls one way. You turn hard the other way it pulls the other way. Is this from the flexable parts? I'm not sure. I have never had this problem with any cars or trucks I've had before. Oh and I have run the same type of servos before.

[pudder]

Tighten your servo saver, that is most likely the problem.

[rcracerguy]

I've tighten it quit a bit,but I guess I could try some more.

[Namvet]

This maybe a repeat of the above question about steering, but I still need help, please.

Today for the first time I took my ST out and ran it on a parking lot at my office. The steering was a constant pull to the left, had I had a large enough area with no obstacles, my ST would have gone around in wide circles without me steering it.

I know nothing about adjusting the steering but if explained I will try.

I did dial the steering trim knob and the Dual (something) to try to get it to run straight.

When I let go of the steering wheel, the truck just would not run straight.

Any help will be appreicated.

Oh by the way I did run on offroad tires, the stock tires that came with the ST, don't know if that has a bearing on my steering
problem, I DID NOT take the time to change to street tires.

[k_sw31]

DId you try adjusting the steering trim? or only the DR? If you only turned the DR then that is your problem. Also check to make sure that there are no rocks or other debris in the steering that could bind it. Also make sure that the servo saver is fairly tight. If all else fails, pull the servo out of the the truck, pull the servo arm off. Next turn the car on, and put your steering trim nob in the middle. Now put the servo arm back on, so it is around vertical. Reinstall it back in your truck, and dial the steering trim accordingly, that should fix it. :)

[pudder]

Good answer!

I've taught you well ;)

[k_sw31]

yes yoda :p

[rcracerguy]

Well I'm still having problems with my steering. I cranked the servo saver down and it still does it. Every time I take a sharp turn my steering is out of wack. Check everything over and nothing seems to be wrong. All I can figure is something is flexing.

[rcracerguy]

I guess I'll try to put another servo in it. That is the only thing I can think of. Maybe I got a bad servo.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by k_sw31
If all else fails, pull the servo out of the the truck, pull the servo arm off. Next turn the car on, and put your steering trim nob in the middle. Now put the servo arm back on, so it is around vertical. Reinstall it back in your truck, and dial the steering trim accordingly, that should fix it. :)

Try that first...it shouldn't be your servo.

[TeamMishap]

When is someone going to make a half-way bashproof front shock tower for this beast. I'm about ready to sell it and buy a Losi-XXXS RTR. Hmmm, that probably won't jump curbs too well and will still shatter when I hit my RC magnet of a garbage can.

[spreckenzy]

i think cnc man has got more aluminum parts for the st on ebay. i have his front and rear shock tower and they are great. he is selling a set of front and rear shock towers and front and rear suspension arms all for $85. check it out.

[cummins driver]

Do what k_sw31 said before you do anything else because it definatley sounds to me like that is your problem.Just pull off the servo arm,center it using the knob on your transmitter,and put the servo arm back on with the wheels facing straight ahead,and then you should be able to adjust it till it tracks almost perfectly straight.:D