Duratrax Evader ST Forum v3.0

[k_sw31]

If you wanna bash buy a pede.

[rcracerguy]

It was the servo. I had a $40 Hitec in it and put in about a $12 special servo. The cheapo makes the Hitec look like junk. Never had that happen before. Guess I'll have to try to send it in.

[Namvet]

Originally posted by cummins driver
Do what k_sw31 said before you do anything else because it definatley sounds to me like that is your problem.Just pull off the servo arm,center it using the knob on your transmitter,and put the servo arm back on with the wheels facing straight ahead,and then you should be able to adjust it till it tracks almost perfectly straight.:D

Please help me by leading me to where the SERVO ARM is located. So I can make adjustment

Thanks

Namvet

Be Kind to Animals.

[k_sw31]

The servo arm is the small black plastic thing that is screwed on to the out put gear of the servo. To remove it, take out the screw that holds it in, and gently pull it off.

Hope this helps :)

[cummins driver]

Yeah,just do what k_sw31 said to do.Your right k_sw31,i have a pede,and love it.

[orbitron]

Hey all - I'm kinda new to R/C and I bought an Evader in December, I've read the posts here and other forums and found that the same questions are being asked over and over again... by new people as well. So I decided to make an Evader Specific website. I want help to make it good for noobs to get the info they require to get a good truck setup and such.

Getting to the point, here is my evader site (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html) if any of you have suggestions that you think are a necessity, or pictures that are cool, or anything really Evader related, tell me to put it on my site, and check it often for updates.
Thanks

[AznJunkie]

Hey orbitron nice Evader site. I think noobs would find it helpful. :D


AznJunkie

[TeamMishap]

I know this isn't a FOR SALE forum, but I thought I'd ask the experts here what I should ask for my Evader.

Radio: Stock Futaba/Duratrax controller. Stock receiver

ESC: Stock ESC with Dean’s connectors

Body: Beat up original red body, Colorado Avalanche Themed Body (never used, Xtreme RC Cars Reader’s Rides Jan 2003!!)

Motor: Used Chameleon 2 Pro 19T motor with Deans connector (still runs great but could probably use a cutting)

Rims/Tires: RPM slingshot rims front and back, Pro-Line Dirt Hawg tires

Installed Hop-ups:
Aluminum front bulkhead (blue, $37.99)/Aluminum knuckle arms (blue, $24.99)/Aluminum hub carriers (blue, $21.99)/Aluminum rear hubs (blue, $21.99)/Aluminum front hinge plate (blue, $7.99)/Aluminum light weight slipper (blue, $7.99)
All aluminum in like new condition!

Freshly installed blue ball cups all around

Installed enamel painted parts:
Blue battery strap/Blue servo brace/Blue front brace/
Blue rear shock tower/Blue motor guard/Blue front bumper

New in bag parts:
Front bulkhead ($3.59)/Diff rebuild kit ($6.29)/Idler gear and shaft ($1.29)/Chassis ($18.39)/Kingpins ($2.89)/Blue motor guard ($1.79)/Servo saver set ($3.59)/Blue front bumper ($1.79)
Titanium hinge pins Front/Rear Inside/Out...have to look which set($7.29)/Front A-arm set ($4.49)

Plus other miscellaneous used pieces and parts in good, usable condition. The clear plastic gear cover is the only thing really beat up. NO BATTS OR CHARGER

[ronbeck]

i'd shoot for maybe 50% of new prices. if you ask much more then that most people would rather buy new. or look for a better deal.

mishap
what are you moving on too? rc wise?

peter:D

[TeamMishap]

Don't know if I'm even going to sell it. Just trying get a feel for a price. I've got an E-maxx now and am about to go brushless with it...if I ever pick up the phone to order. My wife keeps trying to sell me on a sedan (XXXS or similar), why I don't know...but anytime a spouse wants you to buy something for yourself, it means she wants something too.

Truth is, I like the Evader. It's got a mineness to it. My nearly two year old twins love to play on/with it and they won't be able to do that with a street car. And street cars require too much muss to keep them non-tweaked.

I like the playability of the stadium truck, just think I want something that doesn't break as much. Maybe I should learn to drive. LOL

[pudder]

Well you could keep it for yoiur kids... But if you sold it, you should get a T3 or Rustler/Pede for them to mess around with, strong trucks.

That is that bad part about Evaders, when you sell them, usually you have to sell cheap.

[SS Owns J00]

what tooth pinion do i need to get?

[Se_12alty]

it all depends on what your spur gear is and what motor you use. the stock spur i think is 87 and currently i'm running a 19t chameleon with a 20 tooth pinion. Azn Junkie ran his MVP stocker 27 turn with a 19tooth pinion not sure about his spur. but those 2 setups are great for high end and enough punch for low end. just my .02 cents.

[AznJunkie]

Actually the Evader stock spur is 88T and the AE T3 is 87T.

Like Se_12alty said, it depends on what motor you are running and the size of the track if you’re racing.

You should experiment with different pinion to get the best result.

[tamiyajoe]

is anynone selling/ trading their st? i REALLY want one and i have a maximum st pro rtr w/ 3qts. of fuel up for trade

[spreckenzy]

i know for a fact that there are at least a couple for sale in the buy sell trade forum.

[Streaks]

Hey guys.

I'm thinking on buying an Evader ST for the wife's first car. She got hooked on racing in general with GT3 for the PS2 so, it's a natural thing to lure her into RC.

I ordered a couple of copies of realrace2 (before worldcom let me go that is) and we soon found that she drives the trucks far better (I basically made stock class copies of most all the trucks/buggies available, including the downloadable ones). I've seen a LOT of drivers over the years and feel it's safe to say she'd do rather well in the novice class.

Ok so here is my question. I've not read the ENTIRE thread on this truck. But what I have read, makes me hesitate. It would seem this truck is a great deal at first. Until you hit something...

Should I get her this truck (prebuilt, I have a radio to spare) and invest in some parts. Or, should I just save a bit longer and get her a higher quality truck? Also, does the XXT's chassis work? I was going to just get her a Losi spec truck until the price (once I found the damn things) almost made me have a heart-attack!

It's either an evader with parts, or save longer and just get her a T3 Team truck and be competitive out of the box. Problem is, I'm still (ten months now) unemployed, so we're turbo-tight on money *sigh*

Anyway, your input is appreciated!





Streaks

[AznJunkie]

Hey Streaks sorry to hear about you being on a budget. I’m a college student so I’m always on a budget. If you can, I would say save a little more money and go with a T3.

The new evader shouldn’t have any problems with breaking parts (it’s the old ones that had that problem). I really don’t have problems with breaking parts. I drive my evader like I stole it.

It’s the tranny on the evader that is weak. Almost everyone here toast their tranny. If you want to race mod you’ll blow your tranny.

About the XXT parts, most of the XXT parts will fit the evader with no or some modification.

[k_sw31]

Get a T3, if you are going to be mainly racing, you'd like it a lot more. Its a good truck, very durable and great for racing. Also consider the new B4 from associated.

[Streaks]

Well, it'll be used in stock class racing only if we get one for her. She took to the stadium trucks (steering is more forgiving) more than the buggies tho so the B4 might be for me heh ; )

Hrm, the price is just hard to beat tho. Tower sells the prebuilt ones for like $119! And the kit DOES have a LOT of good features. The closest price level that AE offers has (why, oh WHY do they even STILL do this) BUSHINGS in everything but the tranny.

If anyone has any more imput that'd be great. I really appreciate the feedback, it helps! :)






Streaks

[k_sw31]

well, frankly I'd rather have bushing after I saw what happened with my friends evader bearings :p

Take a look at the team built, if you already have electronics, then its a great deal. 125 at www.sheldonshobbies.com :)

[Streaks]

heh, been racing for 13 years, bushings suck...

Yup, I'm thinking the T3 for her. But I don't have spare electronics, just a radio. So it might be the Evader after all.






Streaks

[orbitron]

Streaks - If you do decide to go with the evader, Jep-R/C braces are a necessity . Also maybe find a few Losi XX-T parts like the shock tower, for example.

However, if you are going to run in stock class, the evader needs to be changed anyway which will cost the $. You need to get a stock motor (27turn) ~$50, a non-reversable speed control ~$60, and most likely you will want new shock oil and new springs. BAM $150-$200 more dollars to race the race ready truck.

It would probably be better to go for the more expensive kit and add these parts yourself. Mind you the initial investment of the Evader is cheap, the truck is fun, and you may be able to run it with the stock trucks but ask your local track if they'll let you race with the motor and ESC.

[AznJunkie]

Streaks if you’re going with the Evader here’s some must have hop ups.

Like orbitron said, Jep braces for front and rear. You can get it here: http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

Titanium kingpins: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=DTXC8206&FVPROFIL=++

Titanium hinge pins: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRR7&P=7

Titanium turnbuckle: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRR4&P=7


The titanium turnbuckle and hinge you might be able to do without. I would highly suggest you get the braces and ti kingpins. Stock ones bent on you like nothing.

Once you replace those parts you shouldn’t have any major problems. I have all those and haven’t broken any parts since then. The only parts I break are parts like the front body mount cause I can’t drive. :p

The stock tranny should be able to handle stock racing, just make sure you don't set the slipper to tight.

[kabe586]

Hi, it's me again with another rookie question. My truck right now seems like it slows down more than normal in turns and takes very wide turns. I went from the stock tires to slicks so i am sure that is part the reason. i switched because the stock tires were running down quick. i wanted to know if getting the EVST sway bars would really help improve the preformance in turns? I am going to upgrade my motor very soon, so i wanted to try and solve this before i got a new motor.


thanks!

[k_sw31]

Sway bars are a waste of money on a stadium truck. Try tweak your suspension, as in, try stiffer and weaker springs, and different shock oils...

[k_sw31]

buy a B4 with that money :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Sway bars are a waste of money on a stadium truck. Try tweak your suspension, as in, try stiffer and weaker springs, and different shock oils...

For an offroad electric truck like the Evader, you defiantly don't want swaybars. I can only think of one scenario where you would MAYBE want to use swaybars.... carpet racing. Yes, I am big into the carpet racing in winter, to have a fast truck setup you want to run stiff, use foams, I could give you a large lecture, or just leave it at: don't get the swaybars unless you are looking for a fast carpet setup. ;)

[orbitron]

Kabe - I don't know if you have been driving long but is it possible your not braking before the corners? This transfers the weight to the front end and the tires will grip better. Just a thought. Also, did you set your steering to the most sensitive setting?

[kabe586]

-orbitron
Thanks for the info guys. i won't get the sway bars then. I have only ran like 12 pack if that on my truck so far, so i am still fairly new. But what you said about braking, i am running the stock ESC and i worried about messing up the transmission on the truck by hitting reverse while it is going fast. Won't it mess the truck up? I could be completely be missing a way to brake my evader with the Sprint ESC, and i just have no clue how to. If you can telll me when i am doing wrong that would be great. As for the steering setting, i ended up getting the prebuilt evader and got a futaba PH radio without dual rate. Tower had the prebuilt for $95 on sale a while back, so thats when i got it.

Thanks!

[Se_12alty]

i think most esc if not all of them have a feature that allows the car to slow down while you are hitting the reverse or brake and when it slows down enough it will go into reverse. its so you don't strip gears and mess up your tranny. good luck.

Originally posted by kabe586
i am running the stock ESC and i worried about messing up the transmission on the truck by hitting reverse while it is going fast. Won't it mess the truck up?
Thanks!

[orbitron]

I'm fairly new as well. But if you crank it in reverse the esc only slows it down and it won't go into reverse till it actually stops. The weight transfer is so noticeable you'll be able to turn on a dime.

If you don't want to have to brake as much, I think you can adjust the camber on your front tires inwards, or lower the front end. Don't quote me on the camber, look in the manual for exact details.

[TeamMishap]

Hey I found some of these out of the box for $5.00 each, unmatched of course. Should I order them?

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by orbitron

However, if you are going to run in stock class, the evader needs to be changed anyway which will cost the $. You need to get a stock motor (27turn) ~$50, a non-reversable speed control ~$60, and most likely you will want new shock oil and new springs. BAM $150-$200 more dollars to race the race ready truck.


Uh..What? A P2k Pro is 28 the duratrax non reverse ESC is 25 and springs and shock oil is less than 10 so uhhh less than 65 BAM!

[pudder]

I think he is talking about Canadian money, or another currency. You know not everyone goes by US dollars....

[spreckenzy]

team mishap check out these battery prices

http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatts.htm

[Streaks]

Well, after posting last time I went over to towerhobbies to do some price shopping and "what's this.....BillMeLater?" :D


sssoooo....I ordered her a team built (started with the factory team truck but it wasn't in stock) and got her a whole race package. I skimped on only the batteries, speed controller and, radio. Mostly because she's just getting into it and wouldn't appreciate the bells and whistles on the controller or radio. And the batteries I just got trinity 1400 cells. Seems nobody makes the 1200's any longer which is a sad thing. Have to check out radio shack ;) If your wondering why anyone would want radio shack junk cells, it's because I've always raced stock class. And a stock motor needs more volts than amps. With low mah and propper gearing and soft brushes and super hard springs (as well as propperly broken in and lubed motor), even a cheap stock motor can hang with the best of 'em. Got her a monster horsepower to start with. Figure it'll be good for the T3 and for her to cut her teeth on.

Speed controller I got was the duratrax intellispeed for like $24(us :D ). Also got the lusford titainium turnbuckle and hingepin kit for both her new ride and my old B3. Picked up a 21t pinion, figure that's a good place to start.

I know, that's a lot and I was worried about money. But, this all hinges on my credit going through their system too :) So, I'm not worried. If it doesn't go, then no biggie. If it works, I know we can afford the payments.

We'll be going to the Tiltyard here in VA. So if anyone races there let us know and we can pick your brain about setups :)




Streaks

[pudder]

Even Radio Shack batts are crap for stock racing...

[k_sw31]

yep, radioshack batteries suck (first hand experience).

[Streaks]

Not IMO. They supply the most voltage and thats what you need in stock class.







Streaks

[pudder]

Supply the most voltage isnt always good. If you ever noticed, NIMH 3300's peak at 9-10 volts, because they are healthy.

As an example, my 1500 will sometimes peak at 12 volts or higher, but after it has stopped charging, it always drops down to around 8-9 volts just sitting there. As goes for the other batteries. The peak is just "potential" voltage.

We don't say "oh 1200's are the best for stock racing because you get the best voltage" Untrue, they may peak at a high voltage, but voltage is potential energy. Besides, I would probably dump half way through the race.

Invest in some good quality batteries, they will last longer, give you better performance and run time. The higher the mAh, the better!

[Streaks]

Um, was actually talking about Ohm's law. Not their charge rates. If you have more volts, you have less amps, and vice verca.

I have no access to anything to tell me what rates things are going to charge at. I only have some electrical experience and apply that. I speak from experience when I say that, IMO, the lower mah ratings are better for stock motors. Stock motors do not need as many amps as a modified motor does. They need volts to make bottom end grunt. I suppose if I raced on a track that was basically a dirt road course with few to any jumps, it'd be different. But I prefer rugged, vertical courses.

*shrug*


To each their own man. But I've never had any issues with my packs. Never lost one due to performance issues (unless you count that one coming unsoldered while running in 120° heat ; ). And I've been in the sport for a while too ; )





Streaks

[pudder]

Basically I am just saying that better, newer packs will serve you better.

I notice much better performance using new 3300's, even 2400's in contrast to a 1500, more punch, more runtime, more speed.

[Streaks]

And more money...

That is the biggest reason I use the cheap-o packs. I'm unemployed atm. If not for Tower having financing, I'd not be getting anything for another 3-6 months at least.

Besides, nothing gives me greater pleasure than to hang with, and even beat, people with high zoot equipment. Then see their faces when they walk past my pits to see my "junk" equiped car. I've had people who didn't believe me when I told them my stock motor was over a year old (more like two) or that my batteries were radio shack.

Newer, is not always better.

I say again, stock motors require volts. When you increase a batteries mah, you are increasing it's output of _amps_ which, decreases it's _volts_. They are inverse curves. What amps will get you in a stocker, is run time. But I've never had issues with this. Probably because most of the tracks I've run on have all been rather tight tracks (small). Maybe if I find a huge track here in VA I'll have to upgrade to 1400's or something ;)






Streaks - who wishes you could still do the mid-motor mod on RC10 buggies :(

[thetimboroni]

I have an Evader, and all I am running now is stock. I got the cash up, and now I'm looking into buying hop-ups. I want the Associated F1 Super w/ Reverse ESC, and the Associated Pulse R 12 turn double motor. I will be running 6 cells in it. Will someone let me know if this will all be okay for the Evader? If it's not, will you please recommend a better setup.

[AznJunkie]

Originally posted by thetimboroni
the Associated Pulse R 12 turn double motor.

All I can is you're brave. Most people blow their tranny with 15 turns. I blew my tranny with a 27t stocker. In the evader defense I did run a 11t double for 3 runs. I guess it will be ok. Make sure you don't set your slipper to tight.

[pudder]

It sounds okay, you might have problems with stripping gears though.

[bohemus]

Just remember, If you are going to put a 15 turn or lower motor in the evader make sure the tranny case screws are snug! One of mine worked loose and BAM!! blown idler gear. The extra play in the transmission caused the top-shaft to jump gears. Just ordered 3 more idler gears from tower. I currently run a 15 turn double (speed gem titanite). Also just outfitted everything in Deans.....(works great)... other than the tranny this is now a pretty sturdy truck with the braces!!

[AznJunkie]

I’m not sure if tighten the tranny will help. I tighten my tranny with nuts for all three screws and it still blew on me.

The ONLY way to stop blowing you tranny is to get a metal idler and a better diff. If you read my previous post I posted about getting my new metal idler and mod diff gear. So far so good. I won’t know for sure until I get my Novak brushless system. IRS needs to hurry up and give me my refund. :D


Must have hop ups for the evader are:

Jep braces for front and rear. You can get it here: http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

Titanium kingpins: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...206&FVPROFIL=++

Titanium hinge pins: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXCRR7&P=7

Titanium turnbuckle: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXCRR4&P=7

[thetimboroni]

Where can I find a better differential gear and idler gear? I've looked on tower, but all I could find was the stocks. THANKS TIM

[AznJunkie]

There’s a guy on hobbytalk forum that made it for me. No one makes a metal idler for the evader.

I got a metal idler and a mod B3 diff for $30. The metal idler is really two pinion welded together then drilled to fit the bearing and shaft. The mod diff is a B3 diff that’s been drilled to fit the evader bearing.

It might seem a little pricey, but worth not having the headaches of blowing and replacing gears.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=917621

[Streaks]

Speaking as a former tool and die guy, $30 is cheap for that work :)


I'm sure someone will make some alloy tranny parts sooner or later for the truck.





Streaks

[thetimboroni]

Does anyone know if this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK6&P=7) will be any help in keeping the stock tranny for "exploding" when I hop up to that 13t (I decided to not go w/ the 12) motor?

[AznJunkie]

It's not the rear bracing that is the problem. It's the gears. The idler is weak and can strip easily.

[thetimboroni]

So all this talk about breaking gears worries me. Will I notice a huge difference in a 13t motor and a 15t motor. Because if not, I'll just go w/ the 15t and not risk breaking the idler and differential gear. About how fast will each go in the evader?
THANKS
TIM

[AznJunkie]

It depends on how you gear it. I don't think there will be much of a difference between 13t and 15t. If you gear it correctly the 13t will have a bit more RPM so you top end will be slightly higher/faster.

Just make sure you don't set your slipper too tight and you should be ok. Set it a bit looser to be on the safe side.

[smojoe]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
All I can is you're brave. Most people blow their tranny with 15 turns. I blew my tranny with a 27t stocker. In the evader defense I did run a 11t double for 3 runs. I guess it will be ok. Make sure you don't set your slipper to tight.

i find that funny. i run (when my evader was in one piece) with a LRP f1 pro, pro-line road rages, and a P-94 12 x2. i also ran with a locked slipper and semi-locked diff. ran, say, about 15 batteries (ultra metal 3000's) and the only thing that happened was i melted a diff gear. was my fault because i had set the diff to loose on the first run.


oh, and my gearing was 16/88

[AznJunkie]

smojoe - I think it's all luck. Like I said I blew mine with a 27t stocker. I don't know how yours didn't blow on you. Just luck or Duratrax finally fix that problem!

I have a ramp that I use to jump my evader. I have to gas it to stop it from nose diving. I still gas it when I hit the ground. The idler could only take so much. Plus I did set the slipper to tight. Close to locking it.

[smojoe]

I dont know what it was. i've had the EVST for a little over a year and havnt made any transmission "upgrades." I (well, actually my friend) did a little jumping with the 12 x2, and had trouble keeping the nose down! also did a lot of powersliding and J-turns (is that what their called where you slam into reverse, spin 180 degrees, then go forward?). havent run it sence cristmas because i'm using the rear end for science olypiad, and between my E-maxx and school, i wouldent have enough time to run it anyways.

[pudder]

Do you mean reverse 180's?

Those are even more fun doing them in a full size car on snow. ;)

[spreckenzy]

ah yes i remember doing reverse 180's in the snow. i remember it like it was yesterday. that was fun!!!

[k_sw31]

when I do reverse 180's in my pede, it flips :D

[pudder]

I never seem to use reverse even though I use a reversing ESc in my pede... guess I'm so used to the racing style, use reverse, get a lap deducted.

[thetimboroni]

I'm just curious if anyone has ever put a 2 speed tranny in their Evader. If so, which one, and how well does it run.

[k_sw31]

I dont think anyone makes a 2-speed for an evader....

[pudder]

I wouldn't bother, with electric, the motors don't put out as much power at high rpm's as initro, besides, I don't know if you could handle the low end torque. ;)

[spreckenzy]

broke my first top brace. and got my t2 running. and by comparison i like the t2 much better. maybe because it is new to me but i seems to handle better and seems to be more durable.

[nokturnelracer]

I just got my evader a week ago. This was just me testin the durability :D

[nokturnelracer]

:)

[nokturnelracer]

and she still drove in a straight line :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sweet lord!!! look at that landing lol:eek:

[pudder]

Hmm... look familier? :D

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01369.JPG

What about upside down off a jump?

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01930.JPG

[orbitron]

Pudder - I remember you saying the Parma '41 Willy's would probably fit but look bad on the Evader ST... You were wrong on both accounts:D . I will have to put a lot of love into getting it mounted but look at the lovliness of the Willy's Evader!
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy'sside%20.jpg
ps how could you get your RC10 so snowed up without covering the ESC? you have so many pics on your website!

[pudder]

Honestly, I have no clue why my ESC never went poof...

[orbitron]

Looks like you were trying to do it to your Stampede as well.

[orbitron]

I took my truck out for the first time this year. Yeay warm weather. This gave me a chance to test my internal antenna fully. Does anyone have an original setup so that they can tell me the range? My internal setup is 55m max. I don't know if that is good or not.

Also my new body is trimmed and mounted so now its time to decide on a paint job.

:DYEAY SUMMER:D

[what_up_kid18]

hey

I just got an airtronics mx3 fm radio system for my evader. It looks and feels great and the receiver is super-tiny compared to the stock evader receiver.

1 problem though. The reciever uses the new "Z" connectors and I cant hook up my ESC because of a little piece of plastic that is on the side of the connector. I was thinking of taking a drill and "scrubbing" away the plastic. What should I do?:mad:

[AznJunkie]

Get a pair of scissor and cut off the tab. It will work, just make sure you put it in correctly.

[what_up_kid18]

Thanks a bunch!

Now I can use my truck with my new radio!

P.S. I bought it on Ebay for $102 including shipping. It was brand new, came with one 53 oz./in servo, a super-small receiver, 8 rechargable batteries.

:D :D :D :D :cool: :) ;) :cool: :D

[grewst]

I'm bumming,,, I sware its been raining for a month straight:(

Pudder: Was that your truck?? Ouch!! Thank goddness for Jep's braces,,lol

Orbitron: It looks good,, send a pic when you have a nice shiny new paint job on it:D

Rain,, Rain,, Go away.. (and don't come back tell december)

Ok I'm done whining now

[pudder]

What about my truck? I just lost track of what everyone was talking about here, besides the reciever plug question.

[orbitron]

I think pudders truck was a T3 not an Evader. Here is a page for my Willy's Evader (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willys.html) . Don't laugh (under construction) it will be better when I finish the truck.

[pudder]

Now I'm even more confused....

I have a T3 and and Evader too... plus 5 more RC's...

[EDMONTON]

Orbit, i like the look of that '41, thinkin of resurecting the evader st. Gonna have to put humpty back together again. I was gonna use the st for spare parts for my bx on the way but Ilike that '41.:D

[orbitron]

Edmonton - word of warning... I had to shred the wheel wells just to get it on and the front overhang is about 1.5cm in front of the bumper and you have to take the bumper off the Willy's. Also you will have to get post extensions, and do something wierd to the front to even get it mounted... Oh yeah I got mine at Great Hobbies (by whitemud amusement park) and it took them 1 month to get it to me. And one more thing, do you get the immpression I want to be the only one in the world with this body? LOL

[EDMONTON]

orbit, are you mail ordering or goin to g. h. ? Say hi to Mike. If u want to get a laugh, ask him about my first series evader st. I was the first one to buy one off of them.They new nothing about them other than it had nice featujres for the money. I was in there twice a day getting parts. I taught them everything they know about the evader. Guess I was a guiney pig. We still laugh about it. The newer series seem not ot be plagued like mine.

p.s. thought u were in calgary, sorry C-SPOT.

[orbitron]

Yeah I live in the C-spot. I was up on family day weekend, visiting family, nice how that works out huh? I went in hoping they had one in stock because they actually had it listed on their website. Unfortunately, they didn't have one in stock so I ordered it to be shipped while I was there.

I am lucky to have a series 2. Yesterday I burned 4 packs and ran into a pole, and a tree, and a fence, no breakage. Was that due to Jep-RC or the Losi shock tower I don't know.

[what_up_kid18]

I'm so happy!

[what_up_kid18]

I'm so happy!

[what_up_kid18]

ouch

[orbitron]

what_up_kid - Why?

[thetimboroni]

I got my Evader in October. For a month it ran fine. All of a sudden, it stopped working. I was getting steering, but no motor. I checked it out, and just got some new brushes . So that was working fine. Well, a few weeks later, it stopped working again . I was getting neither steering or motor. Luckily a bud of mine let me borrow his ESC just to see what was wrong (or pretty much just to check if the reciever was broken.) Well, it worked fine, so we concluded that because the reciever was working it had to be the ESC. So Dad and I busted out the ol' voltage meter just to double check, and sure enough, we were right. I really didn't want to do the whole warranty thing because I thought I would have cash soon enough. Well, long story short, I kept that same attitude and never shipped it off to Duratrax to fix. Basically I've had some cash flow limitations, so I haven't been able to run up until now (or a few days... whenever the package comes in) so I'm pretty stoaked.

Having said all that, I'm just curious if anyone else has had:
A: The brushes die that quick on them.
B: The stock Sprint ESC just die.

TIM

(Some of you with HobbyTalk may have already read this, but I'm just posting for the folks over here.)

[pudder]

I have gone through 3 or 4 Sprints. All of them just quit working like yours did.

[grewst]

I have never had any problems with the esc,, neither has my son..

I actually kinda like the esc for a cheapie..

As for the brushes,, mine were toast after about 10 runs.. As a matter of fact my first Photon was just junk,, When I went to replace those brushes the comm had big pits in it.. Duratrax replaced the motor, but the new one wore out about as fast..

I just stick with a good stock motor now..

[spreckenzy]

ya my stock photon went through brushes fast as well. the switch on my sprint esc is kinda touchy though. I as well just use a good stock motor.

i have never had to much of a problem with the sprint i kinda like it. the stock plug did melt though. and that switch? i still like it it is a good cheap esc.

[pudder]

I have been having a good time with the Sprint lately. I have it in my pede, and I was driving it hard with a 15 turn motor, and it never got hot!

[k_sw31]

My friend's sprint just quit working, a bit odd. :rolleyes:

[ayk_driver]

my dad just found a 22 tooth pinion... what do u think it will do to my truck?? more top speed or more acceleration?

[spreckenzy]

i put a 22t pinion on my stock motor in the evader it had good top speed but lack torque and acceleration. i keep it at 19t. either way it is fun to play with gearing to see the differerences and to see what you like as the driver.

[pudder]

Originally posted by ayk_driver
my dad just found a 22 tooth pinion... what do u think it will do to my truck?? more top speed or more acceleration?

Having a larger pinion or smaller spur gear will increase top speed but acceleration will be reduced.

Having a smaller pinion or larger spur gear will reduce top speed but acceleration will be increased.

[thetimboroni]

In a few days, my "package of goodies" should come in. It will include a 14 turn motor. I bought a 16t pinion, a 17t pinion, and an 84t spur. I already have a 90t spur, a 24t pinion, and the stock 88t spur, and 21 pinion. I'm looking for more top speed than acceleration. Which two gears would be best, also considering not melting anything. Also, about how tight should I set my slipper?

THANKS
TIM

[EDMONTON]

I had the brushes fry on me too. Probably after 12 runs or so. It worked good till then. The springs were brittle too and broke. Probably overheated. I ran 1 more set of brushes the the com warped or something. It looks bad. Its been a good paprer weight.:p

[pudder]

I agree that the Photon's brushes wear out quick. I am not sure how many packs I ran through it, not many and the brushes, as well as the comm were toast, and most of this was indoor running, not outside.

I found better performance in a P2k 2.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

I used my brushes for about 40 packs before they started to show noticable wear. Kind of odd, eh? Then i got em switched up and haave noticed a small improvment in acceleration, but not top speed. Anyways, that was last year, im gunna run it for the first time this year today! YES!

[p.n.e]

sup all? havent been to this board in a long time, just wanna say hi to you ppl. i still have the ol evader but i got a nice 1/8 scale nitro buggy that rocks. :D have fun guys!

[pudder]

Oh ya, update on my Evader. The turnbuckles are now on my stampede. :)

[Namvet]

I have been reading the post and I can't seem to find the answer to my running problem.

My truck was running ok yesterday, I went to the track this evening and it ran and stopped, I switched batteries thinking I had not charged that battery, the same thing until I had tried four batteries.

I got home, replaced the bushings and check the bullet connection on the wiring, seemed ok.

I get steering but sporadic motor running.

I can hear the electric going through but I get no constant run.

I have a new p2k2 pro I have not installed yet, was hoping to fix this problem first.

Any ideas on what I need to do? I also noticed that I can moe the motor around and a signal to the motor, a chirping sound and than pull trigger and it runs, than stops.

Thanks

Namvet

Hope I told you enough to get some help?

[spreckenzy]

motor brushes? Namvet do you clean the motor and change brushes periodically? that photon goes through brushes fast. if it is not that, taking that you have steering, then i would think the esc has something to do with it.

[ayk_driver]

Originally posted by spreckenzy
i put a 22t pinion on my stock motor in the evader it had good top speed but lack torque and acceleration. i keep it at 19t. either way it is fun to play with gearing to see the differerences and to see what you like as the driver.

ok kewl thanx ill leave her stock :D

[Namvet]

I changed the brushes for the first time tonight.. The more that I fool with the wire I am wondering if I need to replace the fittings to Deans instead of the stock fitting (plastic ones)?

If it is the esc, how would I know that was the problem, or better yet what do I do about it?

[spreckenzy]

for stock racing the stock battery connectors will probably be fine. deans connectors are better. They allow more juice to get to the motor without losing any through the plugs. swithcing to those is a personal choice.

the esc may need to be reset. if so watch your start up video for the procedure to reset the esc.

BTW my photon motor worked well through two sets of brushes then on the third set the motor was very slow and little torpue. i replaced it with a p2k. i would suggest using your new stock motor as well. i think you said you had a p2k2.

hope this helps

[orbitron]

I got my '41 Willy's done.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Sand%20rearside.JPG
there are plenty more pics here (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willys.html)

[EDMONTON]

LOOKS GOOD Orbitron

Doesnt look like theres any snow there , youre lucky.

[orbitron]

Yesterday it snowed while it was sunny but it didn't last long. We've had great weather for the last two weeks. I had to scrub the tires and chassis for these shots because on Friday I went out to **a track** name left out cause I jumped the fence, and got it so muddy I couldn't see the black on the tires.

[orbitron]

I think I just stripped the gears inside my servo. It makes quite the racket when it's trying to center, which it can't do, can I get replacement gears for it? What is a good durable cheap waterproof servo? Thanks in advance.

[k_sw31]

Yes you can buy replacment gears for a few bucks, but for 40 bucks you can get a Hitec 625 mg, metal gear, ball bearing, a fast torquey servo :) Its not waterproofed but I have found through a lot of snow etc. with it in my pede that it doesn't really mind the water, but you can wrap electrical tape around it for insurance :)

[p.n.e]

hey edmonton, are u from edmonton ab, canada by any chance? shoot me an email at pneboyrulez@hotmail.com and we can bash together sometime!:p

[orbitron]

PNE - Where did you go? Good to see you back.

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Yes you can buy replacment gears for a few bucks, but for 40 bucks you can get a Hitec 625 mg, metal gear, ball bearing, a fast torquey servo :) Its not waterproofed but I have found through a lot of snow etc. with it in my pede that it doesn't really mind the water, but you can wrap electrical tape around it for insurance :)

I have one of those servos too, they have been through a lot, good for racing too.

[thetimboroni]

Alright! Got my "package o' goodies" yesterday. Having church last night, I couldn't finish off the soldering and installing of new stuff, but tonight I finally got it done just in time to at least run one battery. I haven't seen it's "full throttle" yet, due to the fact that I'm waiting for the brushes to shape to the comm, but I'm already hauling just half throttling! :p What kind of got me frustrated was the dang new antenna tube I bought. I took me 45 minutes to get that thing through there! :mad: Anways, I'm still pretty stoaked about it all because after all these months I'm finally running.

By the way, in case you were wondering what was in this "package o' goodies":

Duratrax Intellispeed 12+ turn w/ reverse
Trinity Speed Gems 14t
Astro Flight Discharger
86t spur
16/17t pinion (although tonight I ran a 22 and it didn't overheat yet. I hope that keeps up.)
Differential gear and Idler gear (in case they break as many have said may happen...)
p-94 brushes
12" antenna tube (nylon... that stock one sucks. It broke on the first day... haha)
Titanium turnbuckle set w/ wrench

I also ordered a 13t Racer's Edge motor off eBay, and it came in today. (I ran the 14t tonight though.)

[pudder]

Tip for getting antenna in:

Make sure it is strait, no kinks, and spray some motor cleaner in the tube. It will be easy to insert and push the antenna in.

I like to use motor cleaner better than a lubricant because motor cleaner evapourates quickly, but still helps get it in.

Try it.

[thetimboroni]

No one's posted in a few days, so I figured I'd get back on track here. I've been running the 13t for a few days (5 or 6 batts.) and so far no broken tranny! The only broken thing is the front body mount, but it still lets me mount the body, so I don't really care. I figure, slap some glue on that sucker! :p It's kind of odd though, my ESC is the Intellispeed 12t + w/ reverse, and it thinks that reverse is forward and vice versa. So all I had to do was flip the switch on the radio and it works. My only problem is, because of this "switch-up," there is a delay on forward (as normally there is a delay on reverse). I'm not much of racer now, but sometime I hope to find the schedule and show up to the races. I think that will be a really bad problem then, because coming out of turns, it will take a little while to pick up speed again...:( Anways, if anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Otherwise, I'm going ahead and emailing Duratrax!

[cummins driver]

Unplug or unsolder the wires going to the motor, and switch them around, and then flip the switch on your radio back to normal, and everything should work ok.:D :) Try it, and tell me if it works. It shouldnt be much of a problem to do.

[thetimboroni]

I'll have to give that a try. If I don't get a chance to do it tonight, I won't be able to tell you until Friday because I'll be out of town, but thanks for the advice.

TIM

[cummins driver]

Let us know how it works even if you dont get back till Friday.:D :) ;)

[thetimboroni]

I took this idea and thought of a plan of my own. I run the Powerpole connectors, so no resoldering was needed. I simply switched the connectors and it works fine!

THANKS
TIM

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Hey guys long time no speak. Anyways, got a question for yah.
1) My evader is making a really odd clicking noise, i cant tell if its the tranny or the motor. I dont really thing its the motor. Also, how do i get the little pin (in picture) out?
Thanks so much!

[orbitron]

Matt - I used a hammer and a nail on the concrete floor until I could realy get a hold on it with the needle nose pliers. I know it's archaic but it worked!

[thetimboroni]

For clarification on my last post (some of you may have been confused), I was talking about my motor. You see, it was going opposite... as in backwards is forwards and forwards is backwards, and cummins told me to resolder the negative and postive on the motor.

TIM

[k_sw31]

I pop those pins out with some heavy duty pliers, that way I can get more leverage :)

[bomber 1]

i am brand new to this forum. I have been looking over it for the past few days and it has really helped I have hade my evader for about 6 months. my most common breakage is the front bulkhead and bumper. I have lokked at jeps parts and i think i want to get them r they any good? i also think a large bumper would be good but i cant find any. i want one that sticks out and not one like a skid plate. any help would be great.

Thanks

Newcomer bomber 1

[k_sw31]

I believe you are talking about the rpm cushioned bumper, correct? Well, the one made for the XX fits the evader I beleive: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=0 :)

I have one for my pede, they are the best :D

[bomber 1]

yeah that one might work and not hurt the wallet to bad. if any one knows of any others that will work let me know

I just wanted to thank all of you for the help after reading this forum i decided to buy a few things from tower like a 17 turn motor and prolines road rage tires and a few other things wich i cant wait for them to come. we just had a snow storm and now it is melting so hopefully it will dry out by the time the stuff comes.
bomber 1

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Well... I checked my tranny and it seems fine, no binding or anything. However, i got it all back together and put a battery in. Guess what? No power. Yeah you heard me right no power, to steering or the motor. Please help me, i got no clue whats wrong. By the way, one of the connecters (to the motor) soldered itself to the esc bullet. I got em apart and everything looks fine. But im gunna get some powerpoles or deans.

Thanks, Matt

[k_sw31]

Well, first try a different pack, its possible that something internal had broken off or something. Next I'd check to make sure your on/off switch didn't get ripped off, I've had that problem with escs in the past. The final thing I can think of is make sure the wires going to the receiver are all intact and plugged in. :)

Hope that helps, btw, is the light on the esc on?

[Matt (aka R/C)]

I have tried all my battery packs and none work. the esc light does not go on. And my reciever is fine as far as i can tell.

[k_sw31]

Well, I have heard of people's sprints just dieing, just like that, it happend to a friend of mine. If its under warranty duratrax will replace it for free. :)

[Matt (aka R/C)]

AWWWWW CRAP! its not under warrenty any more....... I guess ill have to try and work a deal with my LHS. Thanks for your help.

[thetimboroni]

Broke the front suspension arm. :( My LHS carries Losi stuff but not Duratrax. Does anyone know if the Losi XXT one will fit my Evader, because I really don't wanna wait for Tower to come in.

THANKS
TIM

[rcguy2477]

Hi all,

Soon i am getting an evader(hopefully):) . It is used, so i was wondering, when did they start making the 2nd(better supposidly) evader. They guy who im trading with said he got it around december.

Also, are there any places that make custom hop up parts beside duratrax? I found Jep-RC alread and was wondering if there are any simular places or if any of you guys make them.

Any help appreciated!!

rcguy2477

[bomber 1]

hey guys
my order from tower came today and i put in my new 17turn it is awesome i love it the road rage tires are great too
just thought id tell you

[AznJunkie]

rcguy2477 – Jep and someone on Ebay name CNCMan are the only two people that I can think that make hop-up parts for the evader. Other than those two duratrax makes the rest of the hop-up parts. I think you will have the 2nd gen evader. I think the 2nd gen was ship like the middle of last year.

bomber 1 – I hope you have fun with your evader. Just make you set the slipper right or you might blow the idler gear.


I’m still waiting to get my Novak brushless. I need the money. I tried the bill me later with towerhobbies. If I get the financing then I’ll get my brushless. If I don’t then oh well.

Lots of BS has been happen to me. Got in an accident, got a ticket, and got lots of bills to pay. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/frown_2.gif Man oh man why does it suck to be poor. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/mecry.gif

[bomber 1]

my evader was awesome today i was jumping a total of fifteen feet of a little plastic jump it was awesome and i didn't break any thing

[AznJunkie]

Looks like I will get my Novak brushless. I got approve by Towers Rape Me Later program. I’ll tell you how it is when I get it. :D

[bomber 1]

good luck let us how it goes for sure

[pudder]

I stopped getting email replies from this thread... damn board maitenence...

[AznJunkie]

Yeah me too. I miss TWO whole pages! ;)

AznJunkie

[pudder]

What the hell did they do with the other like 75 pages :p

[AznJunkie]

I guess they want to make it easier to read. They broke the evader forum into 3 pages. That’s why this one is called evader forum v3. The others are at the bottom. You can't post in those. I like it this way. It’s easier to read through.

AznJunkie

[WVEvaderST]

Can someone tell me the part number of the losi front shock tower that will work on the Evader. I got mine at Christmas and have broken 3 of them now. Also can someone tell me the best place to get it. One more ? should I get the graphite one or the stock one. Thanks for any help.

[AznJunkie]

I believe it will fit. I remember someone saying that the XXT shock towers will fit the evader without any problems. If you look at the pix it looks like it will fit. I would get the stock tower instead of the graphite. Graphite is lighter, but it will snap instead of bending like plastic. The part number is LOSA1108.

You can get it here:
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA1108

[orbitron]

I put the graphite tower on my truck I don't know the part number but here is a comparison with a Duratrax one
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/shock%20towers.jpg
And a link to my webpage about the changeover. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/losiparts.html)

[WVEvaderST]

Thanks for the help. I think that I will try the stock one for now. It is getting old changing the duratrax one all the time. The last one that I put on I managed to break on the first battery pack.

[TeamMishap]

Anyone interested in learning how to make quick release top shock fasteners? I hate the screw and nut setup. Probably less than $2 to make four of them.

LMK if interested.

[AznJunkie]

Gotta love towerhobbies. I got my Novak SS already. I can't put it in yet. I lost a screw for the tranny. I gotta go to my LHS and get some more screws. I will report back on Monday night.

[AznJunkie]

Hum........... Well I just got back to my apartment from my parent’s house. I got my Novak SS, but I’m missing an item. I got everything I order but my Trinity monster stocker. I’m getting that for my HPI rally. Instead I gots some bling bling dubs for model cars. Pic below of Novak SS and the bling bling.

[NTC3Fan]

I'm wanting to get a off road truck for some fun when i cant run my nitroTC3....

Is the Evader a pretty good truck???
Its for a good price too, so i really want one

[AznJunkie]

The Evader is not a bad truck at all. For the price and what you get it’s a good deal. The durability isn’t that bad as people claim. My friend has a T3 and I have an Evader. We both broke the same amount of parts. All new (2nd production evader) has fix the broken parts problem.

[orbitron]

Azn - I'm more exited about you hooking up your BL than you are.... Hurry up and tell us the news!!

[AznJunkie]

I just ran the Novak SS. All I can say is nice. It seems as if it was as fast as my 11t D4 motor. I don’t race so I can’t really tell if it is as fast as the D4 11t. It still had some good torque. Overall I really like it. The motor ran slightly hot while the ESC was burning hot. I read that some people were experience the same problem. I’m running a 21t right now. I will try a 20t and see if that helps. Sorry I don’t have action shots, but I will try and get some soon.

Go here for some pix of my setup: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1960276&uid=1046955&members=1

It looks crappy. I didn’t cut the wires as I was in a hurry to try it out. :)


AznJunkie

[orbitron]

Azn - There are so many wires out of that ESC... What kind of run time did you get with which battery? Also your truck is so clean do you use a toothbrush morning and night?

[AznJunkie]

I'm running some no name 3000mah pack. I was only out there for like 7 mins. Then I went back out for like another 7 mins. So I would have to say I get more than 10 mins of run time on 3000mah packs. I will time myself tomorrow. :)

The motor has 3 main wires then it has the senor wires. Lots and lots of wires. I didn’t want to cut it cause I was in a hurry. Right now I just rerouted the wires; still have wires all over the place.

Orbitron – How’d you I toothbrush my truck. I toothbrush my truck after every run. I guess I’m use to cleaning after having a nitro truck. :D

As for the Novak SS, it's very smooth. It coast very nicely. It has very good acceleration and braking. Did I mention it’s very smooth! No jerking at all. Very very nice. Kudos to Novak for making a nice BL system. :cool:

AznJunkie

[AznJunkie]

Funny thing today. I timed myself today. Yesterday I said I was out for 7 mins then later that day for 7mins. Well today with my trusty stopwatch I got 14 mins exactly with my no name 3000mah packs. Aint that some funny stuff. If you’re racing your time will probably be lower cause you’ll be pushing it a lot harder. I was doing the usually bashing. Speed runs and jump over speed bumps.

With the Novak SS, the power stays the same until the battery dumps. With the 20t pinion acceleration was good and top end speed was still good. The esc wasn’t as hot and the motor was warm. All testing was done on unlimited setting.

If you’re going to use reverse. Just watch out. Man is reverse fast. :D


AznJunkie

[AznJunkie]

Just for kicks I ran a 22t pinion. All I can say is WOW. Acceleration and top end both improved. It seems like the higher the pinion the more power I have. There is a trade off. The motor was running a little hot and the esc was burning hot. It has thermal protection, it didn’t kick in yet so I guess its ok. I think I’m going to keep this pinion on. On the speed run my evader looks like a screaming banshee flying down the street.:D

AznJunkie

[k_sw31]

Gotta love brushless :D

[AznJunkie]

I’m starting too really like the Novak SS. With the 22t pinion I’m getting some much power and top end speed. I can do somewhat of a wheelie. I can’t do it on command. I have to go into reverse then hit the gas. Keep mind I did lock the slipper. If I have enough traction I can do it. Overall I really love it. I want to get one for my HPI rally now. If you guys can afford/get the Novak SS it’s definitely worth every penny.

[k_sw31]

Jump the dumpsters! :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by orbitron
Also your truck is so clean do you use a toothbrush morning and night?

Maybe he is like me, cleans his rc's more than his teeth... http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/biggrin.gif

(Notice anything about the smilie? ;))

[k_sw31]

Yeah, its just like me. Every night, go upstairs, slather toothpaste on the tooth brush, give my T3 a good scrubbing and go to bed :D

[jep_rc]

Hi everybody,

It is good to be back and to see some of the old familiar names. Things are starting to thaw out here in South Dakota so I thought I better see whats going on. I just got 100 sets of Combo-Packs from the machine shop and I'm ready to ship (thanks to all those who were waiting for parts). I'm tweaking up the trucks for our HobbyTown parking lot season starting May 4th. Any new tips or gripes about the Evaders? What is the latest on transmissions? Are the new hardened slippers doing the trick? Other new tips?

Best Regards,
Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

[TeamMishap]

So it's that blue lightened slipper I just got that is ruining my Evader quality of life? Making a godawful "sssswheeeeeooot" sound everytime I "gas" it. Dang I hate wasting money

[AznJunkie]

TeamMishap – Isn’t the blue slipper the old hop up. I see Duratrax offers a hard anodized slipper in both regular and lighten. Those look good. I want to get it, but I’m not sure if it’s any good.

Links:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTS3&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTS4&P=7

[rcguy2477]

I have a question.... Does the xxt front body mount require to drill new holes for the body. Also which is of better quality, the xxt mount or duratrax one?
thanks
rcguy2477:confused:

[orbitron]

The XX-T body mount fits without issue. Although the holes are about 1 mm out of alignment. It doesn't matter though. YOu have to bent the body a little to get it to fit because the angle of the mount is slightly different. See Here. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/losiparts.html)

[pudder]

About the slippers, I'm sure that the T3/B3 ones would fit without issue if anyone wants a real good slipper. I think Robinson Racing also offers a blue annoed lightened slipper for the T3/B3.

JEPRC- The other day at racing it was so nice outside I put some road tires on and went outside. I was running my indoor setup (it was inbetween races driving) for my T3 which is runing hard springs, low to the ground, 80 wt and 2 hole pistons and road hawg II tires.

This setup would work good for your evader as well since it is a slight bit wider than the T3.

You should give it a try, works great for parking lots. :)

[AznJunkie]

Pudder I tried the AE slipper on the Evader. It’s won’t fit. The hole is too small. You can make it fit by drilling it I’m sure.

I want to know if anyone here tried the new hard anodized slipper.

[pudder]

Oh, it would be better to not drill out the slipper to get AE to fit if anyone is thinking of doing that. It will most likely become out of balance while drilling, if you are careful it might work...

[kabe586]

Hi Everybody,
As usual i have some questions, probably fairly simple. I just got a Speed Gem 2 19t double from tower the other day! I got the motor and everything hooked up fine and i broke the motor in and everything. The only other part of i have changed on my evader is dropping the spiked tires for Duratrax hard slicks since i run on pavement mostly. Anyways i went to take the car out for it's first run and of course it starts to rain. While bring it back i hit a parking lot wall pretty hard cause i misjudged a turn a bit. It put the steering of my evader off pretty bad. So i went and took apart the front end to try and recenter the servos. I have tried it 3 times now, and i can't seem to get it right! No matter how i adjust it it is too far left, or right. I can make the car go straight, but my steering trim must be almost all the way in one direction of the other. Am i doing something wrong? When i center it i take out the servos, and then turn on the truck and attempt to center the steering trim along with the servos arm( i think that is what is it called). Everytime i move it over a notch though it never seems to be in the center. Please... any ideas?? Sorry about the detailed explination of what happend, but although i have had the truck for a while, i bought it prebuilt and have not done any real upgrades before.

Also i wanted to know what gearing i should run with my new motor. I am running an 18t pinion now, i was thinking about going to a 20t, but i don't want to push the ESC to hard since it is the stock one.

THanks!
Matt

[pudder]

I am not sure what is going on but are you just having trouble with centering the servo?

Did you make sure the servo is not stripped either?

When you put the servo hown on, it never seems to be centered, but you can fix it with the trim on your radio, or by adjusting the turnbuckles. If you have noticed, there is also a small turnbuckle between the two ballcups on the steering servo horn, and on the top arm coming out of the servo saver.

I hope some of this helps. Also, make sure that you are not adjusting the dual rate on your steering instead of the trim.

[kabe586]

I took it apart again last night to get a better idea of what was happening. I tried adjusting the ball cup spacer thingy and that seemed not really to help. Basically you can ever see the problem when you put the servor arm on. WHen i put the servos arm on, i either have to move the trim all the way to the left, or right for it to be centered. If i move the servos arm over one notch (or what i think i am doing one notch) it goes so far to the left that to get it straight i must move the trim all the way in the other direction.

I don't know if this is normal but adjusting the trim makes the servos rotate just a very little bit. But it makes a world of difference when you hook it to the tires. Like i said i can get it to go straight, but i have to have the trim all the way over. Before this my trim was near center.

Thanks again!
matt

Oh yeah, i have a Futaba 2Ph so it has no dual rate.

[monyet fangkeh]

i getting duratrax evader st soon ( maybe:( ). i heard that the 2nd generation is better than the 1st one? how do you know is your evader is the 2nd generation?( without asking to your LHS staff ). is there any difference between the 1st and the 2nd generation? how high your evader can take on a jump without breaking a part the car? im gonna use it for bashing only but sometimes bashing can go a little bit crazy:D

[pudder]

Basically they just beefed up some parts. On the chassis they put more strengthening ribs, thickened some other parts, more cross-members... I am not sure if they changed the composition of the plastic, I just know parts have been beefed up.

[unit_4tec]

whats the difference between the forums evader st 3.0, 2.0, and 1.0 ?????

[AznJunkie]

The orginal evader thread was too big. So they broke it into three parts. This way it's a bit easier to read through. With V1 and V2 you can't post. They are lock.

[unit_4tec]

hey will this work on the evader st?
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA9904

its the graphite chassi for the xxt

[rcguy2477]

I finally got my evader!!! After waiting 2 weeks the guy decided to send it. Yesterday I went out to try it. At first it seemed rugged but then i backed it into a curb. That impact snaped the chassis right in half. Luckily my lhs carries all the evader stuff. Even though i just got it yesterday i already have some hop-ups; the Bulkhead Pin Brace Set by jep rc and a new blue bumper. Soon this thing will be all aluminum:D . This forum has really helped me a lot. O, before i forget, what is the turn limit on the stock esc?

thanks for your help,
rcguy2477

[bomber 1]

i run a 17 turn and it works just fine no over heating it works great i think that is the best it can handle

[rcguy2477]

What is the best upgrade for the evader? I have 26 whole dollars burning in my pocket and want to upgrade the evst. I was thinking of sellin the stock esc and getting a better one because i already have a 14 turn speed gem motor.

Thanks,
rcguy2477

[unit_4tec]

a good hop up well it really depends. if i were u i would probably save it incase u break a part so u have cash on hand to by the replacement part. or if u need performance parts then i would replace the stock servo with a better one or some new batts or some critical parts that always break and buy the aluminum hop up.:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
What is the best upgrade for the evader? I have 26 whole dollars burning in my pocket and want to upgrade the evst. I was thinking of sellin the stock esc and getting a better one because i already have a 14 turn speed gem motor.

Thanks,
rcguy2477

Go out for a hard bashing session and see what breaks first :D

[AznJunkie]

I got some Proline Dirt Works tires and AE Wheels from someone here on the forum. They’re used, but still look new. I getting much better traction with them compare to my old worn out Proline Speed Hawg.

Since the Novak SS can handle 7 cells. I took apart my crap packs and made a 7 cell pack. All I can say is DAMN. It’s much faster and has more torque. I was doing wheelies by going into reverse and then forward. It has so much power that it just flips backward. Those Dirt Works are really helping me put the power to the ground.

Man I love BL. :D

[unit_4tec]

OOOHhh YEAH! check out my website im building :)

http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/index.htm


WHOa


was doing wheelies by going into reverse and then forward. It has so much power that it just flips backward


WHoaa d00d are u serious? my slipper is almost locked yet it looks like it wants to wheelie when i accelerate. i havent tried wheelies but seriously on 7 cells with a locked slipper and stuff it flips backwards????

im bout to get some different pinion gears and stuff. im saving up my money to buy some batts and some critical hop up parts (jeps, maybe some bulkheads or something im not sure)

[AznJunkie]

When I mean flip backward, I mean on its back. Not actually doing flips. I can’t get it to wheelie on command, but it still has some good power. Enough power to turn the Dirt Works into pizza cutters. My front end will lift up like 1 1/2 inches on takeoff. I’ll try and get some more action shots. :D

I would recommend getting the pinion set. Go with Robinson Six packs (odds and evens). It’s well worth it.

[AznJunkie]

I retract what I said. It can do wheelies on command. :D I have to have good traction then it will do it. The parking lot at my apartment complex has low traction. There are some areas with really good traction. I was playing around at that area and I was doing wheelies on command. 7 cells kick arse. Too bad the pack I made is crappy. They keep f**king on me.

Having the right tries really do help! :)

[ginshun]

Here are a couple pics of my evader. Its done. I am not putting any more hop-ups in. And assuming I don't burn up another differential, I shouldn't have to fix it too much either.

[ginshun]

side view
I take back the no upgrades, its possible I may get a new body.

[ginshun]

This one is just for fun, here it is with my 1:1 car.

[unit_4tec]

whoa that looks cool! see i wish a company would start to manufacture aluminum hop ups like the shock towers and arms for our evader :) it would be easier to get rather then ebay hehe.

[FastTec]

How does a Evader compare to a Rustler? As In build quality, power, performance and hop-ups. Most of all which is better for out of the box racing?

[unit_4tec]

check it out now :D
http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/index.html i got the template in! looks cool huh?
fast Tec> out of the box i would have to say a evader st it comes with alot more hopups than a rustler. in my openion i would go with the evader

[bomber 1]

LOOKIN GOOD HOW LONG UNTIL DONE
IS IT OK TO TELL PEOPLE ABOUT OTHER FORUMS IM NOT SURE I THOUGHT I HEARD SOME ONE SAY IT WASN'T

[thetimboroni]

:( I took the ol' Evader to the local track Sunday (Easter), ran 7 batteries, and on that 7th one, the servo gears were stripped... So I'm pretty bummed that now I have to save some cash to buy a servo, especially since the first race of the season here is May 4th. Oh well.

[ayk_driver]

does n e one no of n e bodies that fit the evader with little or no mods... im looking for sumthing other than the original body

[AznJunkie]

Any bodies that fit the XXT or XXXT will fit the evader without any problems.

[ayk_driver]

ok kewl ill look gor a good lookin' one thanx man

[bomber 1]

hey every one i am selling my evader on ebay check it out it is the one called evader st with everything and more i am getting a savage it gonna be great

[orbitron]

I just purchased a 190mm WRC Corolla. It's wheelbase is too short but not by much. If you buy the HPI Body Post/Link Set #85032, it has all the goodies you need to make a universal mounting set for your truck. I'll show you how in ten minutes.

[orbitron]

OK maybe it was more that ten minutes but here it is. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Universal.html)

This should give you a rough idea of how it was done, and an ugly picture of my body in progress.

[orbitron]

My first fade with a can.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc/wrcfrontside.JPG
more pics here (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc.html)
As you can see this is not for a XX-T but it fits quite well.

[jasonw]

Thought I would post a picture of my truck here and tell about it a little bit. I am shocked that this truck is so fast when I got it. Anyway here is the info. The truck realy is stock with the exception of a Futaba T2PH radio. I had to replace the tires after no time at all. I went with large pin tires as you can see in the picture. They work out verry well and have a verry long life. The only problems I have had with the truck is the Diff "I did not adjust it properly" After doing it right it has worked flowlesly with out any adjustments sence. I also had half the front body mount break during a hard roof landing "GRRRRRR let off that gass while jumping LOL:)" Dose anyone know how to take the shocks apart. The instructions showd I believe to take the plastic piece from the botom of the body but it just flexes and strips when I try to get it off.
http://www.caltel.com/~jasonw/Images/rc/temp/ev.jpg

[pudder]

You need to use a good set of pliers to take the shock bottoms off. I found that linesmen pliers work the best. Get a good grip and loosen the bottom off. When putting them back on, make sure that they are snug, but not too tight or you will strip the shocks.

[AznJunkie]

Follow what pudder said. I prefer to use monkey wenches (I guess that's what it's called).

[enemy_spike]

m back :D. ive been out for ages. dang mailbox. by tuesday i should have all the parts i need to run it. im thinking of buying new front tires. any suggestions of to what kind.

[k_sw31]

Try the new orion pre mounted ones (link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCZL8&P=7))

They should work like any other front tire except they are premount so it will save you some money and glueing time. :)

[ayk_driver]

wow im actually starting to break parts :D lol... sdo far i have broken the front body mount (dam rolling truck lol) and the front shock (dam gran ams just pop up outta no where lol) o well the body mount i mad out of sum old tamiya parts and aluminium... and for the shock tower i mad a plate to bolt the 2 pieces together out of graphite... this truck just luvs to get bea up!

[pudder]

I like the Team Losi Smashers. I reccomended them to someone before, they really liked them as well, I do believe that they actually purchased them. Look like good tires anyways, Losi makes good tires (and that is about all good they make), I use some of their tires for racing.

[rcguy2477]

I just ordered the 8t reverse i-speed esc for my evst. I already have a 14t and 13t motors. What gearing do you guys use? The gearing is for a tight technical track with one strait. I will race at the west chester hobby town usa, in pa.

[Mini Z]

well I'm new to the evader ST even though i picked up a used one :P n e wayz its a roller with rustler shocks :P but i need a fron shock tower and a front bumper as thats all needed to complete the roller... N e one know good online sites that sell hop-ups for this thing? or any forums besides this one? Thanx.

[ayk_driver]

for stock parts try towerhobbies.com...... its like 6 bux for a front shock tower.......

[AznJunkie]

Get the RMP XX bumper. It will fit without any problem.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV25&P=7

[Mini Z]

heh cool... I think i might start a section on my forums www.gtamicro.com for the Stadium crowd.. but lol i might need to change the URL :P N e more stuff besides the stock parts? like is there parts that RPM makes for the Evader ST??? heh any hop-up tranny'z? I'm so excited! :D

[ayk_driver]

only hop-ups i no of r from dura trax... there r alot of parts... but thats it.. unless sumone with the equipment to do it makes there own stuff

[Synthesis5]

hey everyone,
i've been reading around this forum for some time now and the majority of you guys have the electric evader. i'm waiting for tower hobbies to have their nitro available soon so i can order it. so are their any pros or cons between electric and nitro? since im a first time nitro hobbier, what should i do to keep my truck running good? etc.....

p.s. i dont plan on going to competition with my 'soon-to-be' truck. its just going to be for fun, no crazy races or jumps.

thanks in advance

[AznJunkie]

Read these two articles:

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/pistonpower1.asp

and

http://www.nitrorc.com/reference/etuning.asp


I'm sure Duratrax will include a video. Watch it before you start your truck!

Nitro will be fun. At first it may seem a bit hard to tune/run and stuff, but it come to you.

[pudder]

About a year ago I had a DuraTrax Max ST truck. I found their startup instructions easy to follow, and they helped me quite a bit. There is also a lot of information on the net as well.

[Synthesis5]

thanks for the reply azn...

also what brand of fuel and percentage is good to use ??? red alert, etc....

[AznJunkie]

Fuels: Red Alert, O'Donnell, Wildcat, and Trinity. I heard mix reviews on Blue Thunder. :rolleyes:

Stay within 10-20%. 20% is what I usually use. I think Wildcat is the best fuel for your money. :)

[Mini Z]

Sup all... well n e wayz The evader I'm getting has skinned rear tires... :( I'm mainly gonna use the truck on asphalt or sidewalk so offroad tires are usless and will get ruined. I saw some HPI RS4 MT Road tires @ my LHS today will they fit on the stock rims of the evader? Also i'm thinking on using the truck as a carpet racer what rims and tires fit on the evader ST please LMK :D Oh I'm gonna make a Support area on my forums for the evader on my forums. www.gtarc.tk I changed it from a micro site to a all arround R/C site. I'm gonna work on it later :p gotta do some house work :*(

[loki4112]

Originally posted by grewst
spreck-- I tried to tell you:rolleyes:

I mean the stock esc can handle down to a 17T anyways which is plenty for stock or sportsman. After burning up several idler gears with a 15T I figured Iwould just reinstall the stock speedo and never take it out again.

On the other hand, I have had limited succes with my evader in the stock class.... Now if they would just get rid of the rear chassis flex( I swear I can see it bounce as its going down the road) and offer some graphite parts... we would be in real business

i just got a new 17 t moto and rims for my st..and a new willys body....i got a sick idea for the paint job...ne way..can someone give me good directions on setting up the gearing and slipper for my new motor..ive watched the video but still want to make sure im gonna do it right....thankyou very much fellow racers...im just getting back in the game here....(and shouldnt have left..lol)

[pudder]

You dont need to set your slipper, it is just more of a traction control device, it is up to you wheather you want to use it.

Anyways, you should have it set so that your truck slips slightly for the first few 2-3 feet of full throttle takeoff on whatever surface you are mainly driving on.

[loki4112]

Originally posted by pudder
You dont need to set your slipper, it is just more of a traction control device, it is up to you wheather you want to use it.

Anyways, you should have it set so that your truck slips slightly for the first few 2-3 feet of full throttle takeoff on whatever surface you are mainly driving on.

i get all that im just not sure if its done right i dont want to burn it out....

[orbitron]

I think if you can hear the slipper squeel continuously that is the only way to burn it out. I could be wrong but it will probably last (nearly) forever if it squeels loudly for only the first two or three feet.
Check out my latest body...
Mini Cooper S (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini/minitopside.jpg)
another (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini/minifrontside.JPG)
Last one (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini/minitop.JPG)

[orbitron]

I guess someone's got to say something on this dead thread so, here's my mini page. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini.html)
Also I thought I blew my stock ESC but it just decided no to work for an hour or two so I ordered a Duratrax Intellispeed 16t reversable with lockout. Yeay for the strength of the Canadian dollar! It only cost me $100 with shipping.
I haven't installed it yet but I'll post to tell how well it works. In the mean time I think I'm going to send the stock ESC back and get a new one shipped because of its unreliability. I mean come on, why should it just stop until I kick my truck and then it's normal again. Also it may start working again if I just turn the tires in front while not pulling the trigger then pull the throttle and all is well.

[pudder]

I really like that mini cooper body you have there. I am actually going to get the Tamiya M03 L with the Mini Cooper body. :)

I also agree on you with the stock ESC, it is really unreliable. I think I have gone through about 4 or 5 now, oh well, as long as my current one keeps working for a while longer. :)

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Hey guys, im back after a long period of time when my comp has not worked at all. And i've brought a question with me. My evader stopped working for a period of time then just started after i rebuilt it again. But the thing is that there is tonnnnnnns of slipping somewhere. Its not my slipper, ive tightened that about as much as i can. But how do i adjust the diff? I've never worked with a ball diff before. Please help, cause i would like to use my truck sometime soon.

Matt

[TeamMishap]

To adjust the diff, disconnect either end of the turnbuckle on the RIGHT side. This allows the CVD to slide out of the outdrive. Inside the outdrive is where you tighten the diff. Use the appropriate size hex driver and lock it down, then back it off 1/8 turn. Now put things back together and drive like the wind.

[orbitron]

Mishap - and lock it down, then back it off 1/8 turn
Now, by lock it down does that mean...j/k

[orbitron]

OK is it possible that an ESC can make your truck this much better? I had the old one hardwired and I connected this one with deans so the power should be the same. But it seems there is more torque, I can actually see the truck squat down when I accelerate which is different than before. Anyone??

[TeamMishap]

I noticed a big when I went from the stock ESC to my Super Rooster. I was afraid I was wasting $$, but it was a good purchase with a noticable difference in performance.

[orbitron]

The Super Rooster is super cash! I thought about buying it for about 4 seconds then I realized how much they were. I ended up getting the Intellispeed because it had reverse lockout and was only $50 american which is like half of the Rooster. I just took my truck out for some good times and it was an amazing difference. There is actually torque to spare with the photon. I'm thinking about gearing now because the torque is nearly too much. Does anyone know how high I can gear the stock motor? I think its 22 teeth?

[pudder]

Gear it how you want, just be sure that it keeps in good running temperature.

[TeamMishap]

Gonna see what I can blow up in my Evader tomorrow with a Lehner Warrior 7018 / Basic 4200. :)

[pudder]

I'm guessing the whole gearbox. :p

[TeamMishap]

Never saw the front wheels of a 2WD balloon before. Tres cool. Now I get to tear apart the tranny and find out what died. LOL. Not getting any output to the outdrives. Think I lucked out and just loosened the diff screw? Probably not, eh?

[AznJunkie]

TeamMishap - How many cells are you running?

[TeamMishap]

6 fresh charged GP3300s (unmatched)

Ever see a diff gear cut out by its own bearings? hehehehe.
Think I gotta put an order into Tower.

[TeamMishap]

Here's the donut.

[k_sw31]

Nothin like some good ol BL power! :D

[AznJunkie]

TeamMishap - Save yourself from some headaches and get 22Racer metal idler and mod b3 diff.

He’s his post about making it:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?postid=464142#post464142

Here’s pix of the metal idler and mod diff: (at the bottom)
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1970459&uid=1046955&members=1

So far the it's holding up fine in my evader with the Novak SS. From what I hear the Novak and Lehner Warrior 7018 / Basic 4200 is almost the same on 6 cells.

[crono man]

hey guys a local bmx track opened up near my house so i am looking for a good bashing truck that can take high jumps

1)in most situations do you find the evader st durable?

2)is it the AM radio worth the extra 40$ or should i get a seperate futaba AM radio?

3)i already have a novak ss brushless system do you think the evader tranny could handle the power?(the novak is equivalent to a 12t motor with abit more torque)

4)are the shock good?they tend to leak?

5) how low of a motor can the ESC handle?