Duratrax Evader ST Forum v3.0

[AznJunkie]

1)in most situations do you find the evader st durable?

Yes, I have done mad jumps on my homemade ramp (2'Wx4'Lx16"H) and only broke 7 parts for this date (Had it for half a year).


2)is it the AM radio worth the extra 40$ or should i get a seperate futaba AM radio?

If you get thr RTR, the stock radio will work fine. It''s about the same quality as my Futaba 2ph IMO.


3)i already have a novak ss brushless system do you think the evader tranny could handle the power?(the novak is equivalent to a 12t motor with abit more torque)

I have the Novak SS as well, I would get the metal idler and mod diff from 22racer (read my post above). The stock tranny won't hold up that long. Just look at TeamMishap post.


4)are the shock good?they tend to leak?

No leaking problem. I have a problem with the shaft. They seem to bend easily on me.


5) how low of a motor can the ESC handle?

Pudder said he use a 17t motor with the stock esc.

[crono man]

thanks for all the helpful info AznJunkie:)

[crono man]

Originally posted by crono man
thanks for all the helpful info AznJunkie:)

sorry Aznjunkie forgot to ask you some questions
about the novak ss

did you try it with the stock gears before changing them to metal ones?

also why is the novak controller standing up on its side on your truck isnt there enough room to place in a normal fashion?

:)

[AznJunkie]

Originally posted by crono man
sorry Aznjunkie forgot to ask you some questions
about the novak ss

did you try it with the stock gears before changing them to metal ones?

also why is the novak controller standing up on its side on your truck isnt there enough room to place in a normal fashion? :)




No I didn't try the stock tranny parts. I killed the idler before I got the Novak SS. The Novak esc is a bit to big for the evader chassis. The evader leaves you with very little space for you to mount receiver or esc. They made the battery slot to big. I don't have any problems mounting the esc this way. Just gotta use some zip ties. :)

[bomber 1]

hey i am back i was going to sell my evader to get a savage but i just couldn't do it it was to hard the evader was my first car and i just had to keep it. i was raceing friday night with my bro and dad i got them into r/c. my brother has a rc10 t3 and my dad has the savage i was keeping up with the savage pretty good with the 20t in it and my brothers rc10 didn't stand a chance
it was some good family fun.
just wantted to say hello and tell every one that my evader is going to stay

[TeamMishap]

AZn...you just answered my next question. *** do I do to make the tranny BL worthy? Thanks!

[AznJunkie]

No problem, glad I was able to help. I know $35 might seem a little high for tranny parts, but it’s well worth it.:)

Hey bomber 1 good to hear you're gonna stay. Too many people leaving. :(

[bomber 1]

hey i was wondering what everyone has one there trucks besides stock any cool hop ups or stuff to amke it better
i already have all the jeps r/c stuff and i had a 17 turn motor that i ran with a 22t pinon but i sold it and i want to get another one
so what does everyone have on ther trucks

[AznJunkie]

It’s not a real truck until your go brushless! :D

J/K, Get the titanium hinges, kingpins and turnbuckles. It's all worth every penny!


Here’s what I have:
Jep R/C parts
Titanium hinges, kingpins and turnbuckles
Aluminum servo brace
RPM bumper
Novak SS brushless system
Proline dirt works tires
Everything else is all stock.

[racerdave]

Any body know what the Evader tranny ratio is? rd:confused:

[AznJunkie]

Stock Spur gear and Pinion:
88t spur and 20t pinion = 4.4:1
88t spur and 18t pinion = 4.88:1

Transmission: 2.66:1

[Privdog]

hey all... im a nOOb to these boards so bare with me. Just bought a new Nitro Evader ST, actually i put it in layaway but its as good as mine in a few days when i get the cash. this will be my second Nitro truck, i decided on Duratrax from expierience of my first truck its seemed to be tough as nails its a Maximum ST about 4 years old now on its second engine, only problem i had with it were the cheapo tires and shocks. after reading these forums for a few days that seems to be pretty common with those trucks. im rebuilding it ATM i'll post pics when im done with it. now for the reason im posting, has anyone had any expierience with the Evader ST? im pretty confident i made the right choice, im just wondering if theres anything i should look out for. thanks in advance.

-Priv

[Privdog]

i found a Nitro Evader thread, so you can disregard my above post. sorry.

[racerdave]

Tower hobbies list this DuraTrax spur gear
part# LXD 249, this is a 48 pitch, 86 tooth. will it fit the Evader? rd

[bomber 1]

hey memorial day weekend is almost here
any body gona do some hardcore bashing?
i am i am going up the canyon and tear it up on some mountain bike trails.
anybody else doing any thing fun?

[Privdog]

im takin my newly rebuilt max st to the lake this weekend if i get my tires in.

[Privdog]

im takin my newly rebuilt max st to the lake this weekend if i get my tires in.

[AznJunkie]

Racerdave - Yes that spur will fit. Just make sure the spur you use is 48 pitch.

Privdog - I'll be bashing with my XXX-S and my Evader. Might have a BBQ too. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/boozer.gif Oh by the way, Welcome to the forum. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/bigwave.gif

[Privdog]

just got a XXX body for my ST. fits almost perfect.

[pudder]

The Evader Bx one would probably fit even better, but I guess the two buggies are almost same in the wide aspect...

[AznJunkie]

Noooo. Man I have such bad luck this year. My precious! My precious Novak SS brushless system is dead. I wanted to see how it will perform in my XXX-S. So I move it over and now it doesn’t work. I must have plugged something wrong and killed it. My servo has power, but the motor will not turn. Heck the LED doesn’t even glow like it’s supposed to. I’m going to call Novak tomorrow to see if I can get it repair. It’s still under warranty.

/me cries. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/mecry.gif http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/sobbing.gif


On a different subject. I might sell my evader for a mini Z. No I'm not crazy. My LSH have a mini Z race once a week on a day where I can go. Off road races are on the weekend when I work (10 hours shift :( ).

[racerdave]

I posted: Tower hobbies list this DuraTrax spur gear part# LXD 249, this is a 48 pitch, 86 tooth. will it fit the Evader? rd

Do you know for a fact this will fit the Evader? Have you used it? rd

[k_sw31]

Racerdave- Yes that gear will fit your evader.

Aznjunkie- Have you made sure all your sensor lines are plugged in? They are essential for operation...

[AznJunkie]

Yup I check and replug again and again, still no go. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/gamer.gif I think I might of plug sensor lines backward and that's why it died. :(

/me smacks himself for being a noob. http://www.altimas.net/forum/images/smilies/pat.gif

[Privdog]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
Racerdave - Yes that spur will fit. Just make sure the spur you use is 48 pitch.

Privdog - I'll be bashing with my XXX-S and my Evader. Might have a BBQ too. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/boozer.gif Oh by the way, Welcome to the forum. http://www.stopstart.freeserve.co.uk/smilie/bigwave.gif

thanks for the welcome.. :cool: got my wheels and tires in today, HPI chrome wheels, bowties for the back and prolines for the front. can't wait to see the difference..

[orbitron]

I jumped a car with my Evader today. Check out the video. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/may23/onecar.avi)
and here's more! (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/may23.html)

[pudder]

Wow, you're pretty daring there :rolleyes:

[TeamMishap]

I laughed. Orbitron, that was too funny.

[orbitron]

Oh yeah? Wanna see it jump two cars? (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/may23/twocars.avi)

[AznJunkie]

LOL orbitron. That's cool man. :D

Make it jump three cars!!! :)

[bomber 1]

thats pretty cool dude
swwwweeeeeeeeeettttttt

[FLiPStaR*]

can some one tell me or give me a review of the evader?!

Is it in a league with the RC10GT, XXX-NT, or other top models out there?

or is it a typical duratrax, crap, play thing... Does it have reverse?

:D

[AznJunkie]

FLiPStaR* - I don’t know if it’s in the same league as top models since I don’t have the nitro evader and nor do I race. The electric evader is still pretty sturdy. If you want the nitro most likely it will not have reverse.

I don’t think the evader was made for all out racing. Maybe club racing and bashing.

To everyone: I said I was going to sell my evader for a mini z. I decided to keep it. I need a basher that can handle anything. I just bought a use mini z to race.

Looks like I’ll be staying too. :)

[AznJunkie]

Well I want to keep my evader, but I need moeny. So I will be selling my evader. It's in the B/S/T Forum.

If you guys want to buy the roller from me, I'm only asking $100 shipped.

Here's what it has:
-Jep R/C parts
-Titanium hinges
-Titanium kingpins
-Titanium turnbuckles
-Aluminum servo brace
-Black RPM bumper
-Metal Idler gear and Mod B3 Diff gear
-I will also include manual and spare parts.


AznJunkie

[k_sw31]

Hey guys I need some help.

I'm trying to help get my friends evader running, he got all the parts he needed, everything installed, but he lost his pinion.

I have tons and tons of pinions so I can just give him one, but whats the stock pinion tooth?

Or, what would be an ok pinion for a 19x2 that hes running?

thanks

[AznJunkie]

A 20t or a 21t would be ok. It really depends on the motor. I think a 20t or 21t would be fine.

[AznJunkie]

Hey I drop the price on the evader roller to $80 shipped. If you need an extra roller with hop ups, it’s a good time to buy it from me.

[thetimboroni]

I just recently was runnin the ol' Evader in the driveway when I heard a clicking noise. Took apart the tranny and nothing was wrong there. Once put back together, I ran it some more {on PowerMaxx 2400 batteries (which suck)** and I watched a fireworks show happen in my car. Actually I just heard a loud POP (like a capgun) and saw a small spark. I then proceeded to roll the car w/out the battery in to see if the click continued. It did. I don't know where the pop happened, but it looked like either the esc or the reciever (perhaps the battery as well). Strangely enough, the car will still run with no problems, but I didn't try to hard (scared..). I am running the Duratrax Intellispeed 12 + turn w/ reverse speed control, and the stock reciever. Any suggestions as to what happened to my car would be helpful.
THANKS
TIM

[Privdog]

got a new truck today... Nitro Evader, theres not a nirto evader thread so i'll post it here.. very happy with it so far, will see what it can do at this track (http://www.enertrans.com/rc/MVC-001F.jpg) tomorrow.. :)

http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader1.jpg
http://www.enertrans.com/rc/NitroEvader2.jpg

[guver]

how about starting a nitro evst thread
and a nitro evbx thread?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by guver
how about starting a nitro evst thread
and a nitro evbx thread?

i would if i had the permission. would have to be started in the nitro section and not vehicles section. or one of the mods can make one.

[guver]

Oh I thought we could start a new one ,, that body looks sweet on that nitro, That's going to be my first nitro vehicle. soon very soon.

[guver]

I think I will put together an offroad 8-cell evst and sell my current 8-cell with street tires first, so I can get a nitro. hehe

[ayk_driver]

i like that body better than the electric evader body

[Privdog]

Originally posted by ayk_driver
i like that body better than the electric evader body

yeah i do too.. i like the green.. don't like the blue one too much that's on the duratrax site and the box.

[ayk_driver]

yeah i agree... even the nitro bx bodies look good

[AznJunkie]

I put in a request for a Nitro Evader thread. Hopefully the mods will make one.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
I put in a request for a Nitro Evader thread. Hopefully the mods will make one.

cool i thought about doing that.. didnt think it was my place being so new to these forums. speaking of nitro evaders finished breaking mine in today, can't wait to get it to the track.

[Evader ST]

ok im new to this forum and wanted to try this one instead of rcuniverse since the ppl on rcuniverse dont eva answer newbs questions.ok well my question is what do most of yall have your slipper adjusted to with the stock motor cuz A.i dont have my charger yet and B.the first time i run my car i want it to be ready so please tell me what is a good setting for the slipper with the stock motor ran on concrete??please tell me what yours is adjusted to with the stock motor!?!?!?!?!?please do not tell me to test it myself or go to a lhs cuz i dont have one!?!?!?!?

[AznJunkie]

Evader ST – Welcome to RCCA BB. :)

Well you want your slipper to slip for 1-2 ft. Tighten the slipper nut all the way, then back it off anywhere from 1 ½ - 2 turns I think would be ok. I’m not too sure how many turns that is. I keep mine almost lock. If it doesn’t slip for 1-2 ft, keep on loosing the nut until it does.

[AznJunkie]

Oh I wanted to let you all know I sold my evader. I'll still stay and watch/read the evader thread. :)

[Evader ST]

ok thanx azn cuz i had a post with that same question on rcuniverse for a while and they still didnt reply..i had it on here for literally less than a minute and i get an answer:D thank you again:D

[Evader ST]

once again thank you for the warm welcome azn.i have 1 more question though.this might sound stupid but here it is..Where do i put those bushing drops at when cleaning the stock motor?i WARNED you it might sound stupid:confused:

[AznJunkie]

I’m not sure if this is correct. What I do is I remove the motor from the car. I take the oil and put a drop or two on each bushing where shaft exits. Then I turn the motor by hand and I put the motor back in the car and bash. Seem to work fine for me that way.

[Evader ST]

i dont know what shaft you are really talkin bout but is it the one where the pinion gear sits?

[AznJunkie]

The shaft I'm talking about is the shaft where you put the pinion gear on. Ok take the motor. Point the shaft where you put the pinion on in your direction (meaning point the shaft at your face). You should see a gold looking thing (that is the bushing) where the shaft goes into the motor. Put a drop or two of oil on the bushing. Then turn the motor to the other end where the shafts exits out of the end bell. You should see the bushing there. Put a drop of two of oil on the bushing. Now you're ready to play/race/bash.

Please read this: http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blrc101_motora.htm

It will really help you. :)

[Evader ST]

ok man i see what you are talking about.thank you so much for helping me out.now im not so :confused:.this is how i look now..:D

[AznJunkie]

No problem Evader ST. Glad I was able to help. If you have any more question please feel free to ask. :)

[Evader ST]

i was wondering if it would hurt my car or anything if i put a green machine 3 or p2k2 pro motor in my truck with the stock setup and the 1500 batteries?:confused:

[bomber 1]

no it would not i recomend the p2k2

[Evader ST]

why would the p2k2 be better?

[Evader ST]

also what would you prefer..p2k2 pro or monster horsepower pro(the one with the green monster on the can)??:confused:

[bomber 1]

i have the p2k2 and i love it so do alot of other people i know

[bomber 1]

the p2k2 pro is very nive the monster pro is also nice it is all about personal preference get one and try it then get the other and try it

[Evader ST]

well money doesnt grow on trees for me so i dont know whether to get the p2k2 or monster?can you honestly tell me which is better even though you have the p2k2?BTW i run on pavement mostly if that helps any.......

[bomber 1]

everybody i know loves the p2k2

[AznJunkie]

Go with the P2K2 like bomber 1 said. It's easier to gear and is a good motor.

The monster stock is not a bad motor, but it's hard to gear.

If you really want another great motor look at Trinity Chameleon motor.

[Evader ST]

nah i want a stock motor but what do u mean by gear?like find the right pinion and spur gear sizes?

ok imma go with the p2k2

[bomber 1]

good choice on the p2k2
yes gearing is with the pion and spur gear
i just play around with different spur gears i have a bunch and i change them fordiiferent surrfaces and conditions
i recomend getting a few different pinons

[AznJunkie]

With the P2K2 you should be able to use the stock pinion. The monster stock you will need to gear lower. Like go down 2 teeth (19t or 18t). So if you don’t have any extra pinions go with the P2K2.

[Evader ST]

ok thank you guys hey bomber 1 what pinion and spur gear would you reccomend for concrete pavement?

[bomber 1]

stock spur and 19t pinon

[Evader ST]

wouldnt a 19t pinion make the truck slower than the stock one?

[k_sw31]

Buying a stock motor for bashing is pretty much pointless. They have their performance limited to meet racing needs, so you are much better buying a motor such as a Chameleon 2 or a Speed gems pro.

[Evader ST]

i know but i will start racing once i get better with steering and i want a motor thats easy to maintain btw what pitch pinions and gears do i need cause im bout to buy some gears and pinions off ebay

[k_sw31]

Well, you might want to see if your track has a spec class that runs the Chameleons. They are much more fun than the P2ks, and have more power, with hardly and more maitenence.

You will need 48 pitch gears.

[Evader ST]

OK

[AznJunkie]

The evader uses 48 Pitch. So make sure whatever pinion/spur you by is 48 pitch.

Do yourself a favor and get the 6 pack pinion set by Robinson Racing. They have the odds (15-25) and even (16-26) sets. They’re like $12 for each set. $10 on ebay with buy it now

Evens:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=7

Odds:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX35&P=7

[Evader ST]

ODDS EVENS OR BOTH?IF YOU LOOK ON TOWER THE P2K2 MOTOR IS $55.SOMETHING FOR 2 BUT IS IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO ONLY PURCHASE 1?

[bomber 1]

try this stock number laxavj1

[Evader ST]

THAT STOCK # DIDNT WORK

[AznJunkie]

For the pinion pack get both. That way you'll won't have to worry pinion gears. Saves you money in the long run since one pinion is like $5.

Here's the P2k2 Pro from towerhobbies ($28.99):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ2&P=7

[Evader ST]

i know but when i put it in my wishlist it shows that it is two instead of 1

[Evader ST]

never mind it worked with the link

[Evader ST]

how often should i chng my motor springs cause i wont realize it since im new to this?and what springs should i get?

[AznJunkie]

I don't know since I don't race. Check the track where you're going to race and ask around. Before you buy the P2k2 pro check at your track and see what other racers are using for stock. That way you can get help from them if needed.

[JeepsDaddy]

when to change springs??

that varies a whole lot... but if you are brand new to racing... don't worry about buying more springs... LOL.... worry about getting in as much practice as possible....

btw... you'll be changing brushes "roughly" about every 20 packs (and getting your comm turned every time you change brushes)... so buying a couple sets of extra brushes would be much more important than brush springs...

peace out.... :)

[Evader ST]

ok thnx

[Evader ST]

someone said something about cycling batteries and i was wondering what that is?do i need to do it?how often?

[k_sw31]

Cycling batteries often helps store a packs performance when they have been stored for awhile, and will generally get you a bit better voltage.

Basically what you do is give the pack a full charge, discharge it, and repeat the process about 2-3 times.

BTW, Online I and many other people find it quite rude and annoying when people ask a question with caps lock on, its just one of those "unwritten" rules. I would appreciate it if you held off in the future. :)

[acrobidoux]

Hello everyone,

I had a bad Tamiya connector on my ESC which I switched out and the truck ran fine for several runs (it had been cutting in and out).

The truck started cutting out again on Sunday. I checked all connectors and they are okay, batteries, motor connectors are okay also. A hobby shop tech said I might try a reset on the ESC. I followed the directions in the manual and the ESC will not reset. Hell, it does not even work anymore. The ESC is the stock Sprint that comes with the Evader ST.

The directions say to switch on the Transmitter (put throttle trim in neutral position first), switch on ESC (to enter programing mode you must do the following within the first couple seconds). To program: pull back the throttle in full forward postition hold for 2 seconds, then push throttle to full reverse hold for 2 seconds, then return to neutral. Green light will come on and you should be ready to go.

I have done this a bazillion times. No luck, got the thing a few times to run in forward but as soon as I let off the throttle, nothing!

I am getting really discouraged with the Evader!

Any suggestions or should I upgrade to a one touch ESC like a Novak or LRP!

Andrew

[guver]

Are the lites working on the esc when you pull trigger forward and reverse? If so then problem is with your connections or motor.

My experience (which isnt much) has been broken brush springs or brushes that are worn too short. Push inward on a brush to check with the wheels off the ground.

[JeepsDaddy]

an entire book could be written about cycling....

but... to boil it down...

IF you are a hard core racer.. and IF you are not using Ni-mh cells.... you would cycle your ni-cad cells to help bust memory and to help "wake" them up after they have sat without use for a couple months or more... but remember... your cells only have a finite number of "cycles" in them... let's say around 100 just for kicks... if you cycle them 20 times, that only leaves 80 cycles of driving with them before performance goes down the tubes because the cells are just wearing out...

and yo acro... i didn't search back real far in this thread... but, and i you didn't leave much info in your last post... but this is what i would do...

if you are lucky enough to have an extra motor laying around.... put it in... you will then know for sure if it's the motor or speedo...

if you don't have an extra motor... try these things...

1. with the car sitting so none of the tires are touching the ground.. try running the motor... and while you do this, try lightly pulling on the battery and speedo wires to see if a bad connection is causing the motor to short out..

2. with the car turned off.... pull the motor out, and pull out both your brushes.... run an eraser over the surface of the brush where it touches the comm (or use a comm stick if you have one)... then re-install and see if that helps...

peace out.... :)

[acrobidoux]

I cleaned the motor and brushes just two runs ago. The problem has to be the ESC. I have pulled gently on the motor bullet connectors and those are fine. The wires on the motor are secure. This damn ESC will not reprogram, I am not going to fight with it anymore. I picked up an LRP ESC and am ordering a new mod motor to get this thing up to speed. I am also going to switch everything over to deans connectors.

I don't think I will ever buy another electric RTR. It just seems easier to buy a kit, go through the building process, and spec the car/truck with the equipment you want. Oh well, you live and you learn. Thanks for the tips, I will use those this weekend as I am revamping this truck.

Later

[JeepsDaddy]

sorry you feel that way...

but i look at it a bit differently...

(btw.. i don't have the evader truck.. i have the evader buggy)....

anywhos... i spent 119 bucks for the evader buggy (i supplied the radio gear).... and it ran just fine with the supplied 20 turn motor...

but, using race tuned and geared stock motors, i did have to end up replacing the stock speedo... i popped in a lrp quantum comp.... 159 bucks... LOL...

i ended up spending more on one "race" speedo than i did for the entire buggy, stock speedo, kit motor, fully painted body, glued tires, already assembled... LOL...

the 119 dollar "bang for the buck" factor was fantastic... but it's definately not set up to set land speed records or at a price of 119 bucks...

but... bone stock, it can be raced in novice, bashed around the yard, ect.... and that's what it was really intended to do...

anybody who thinks the evader at 119 bucks is gonna be a rocket, or a full blown racing machine, is kidding himself... i think everyone here knows that the evader is a great deal out of the box, and a great platform to throw some cash at if you really wanna go fast or win races (although it can easily win at the novice level bone stock)...

peace out.... :)

[SpeedMunkey]

Howdy folks! I've been lurking for quite some time, and I finally decided to try the hobby again. Back in the day I ran Bolinks and Ultimas, mostly for fun with friends. Now there is a track and a league within a reasonable drive from me, so I needed a vehicle. Turns out they run a 1/8 gas buggy and a 1/10 electric truck class, so the Evader just made good sense to me.

Now, the reason I'm posting... How good can I expect the stock ESC and motor to be? I plan to run the stock motor for now, upgrading later to a 16-18t motor. I also like to gear high for nasty top end over wheel spinning acceleration. Was thinking a 24-26t pinion.. I realize my local track (hard packed clay) will dictate my final setup, but suggestions and advice are welcome.

[pudder]

I would reccomend upgrading to a mild mod or a good stock motor before the ESC. Reason being is the stock Photon isn't all that great. The brushes wear down very quick, and the motor itself wears down quit quick. The stock ESC will go to a 17 turn. Although I did run a 15 turn single on it without it overheating or anything in my Stampede.

[loki4112]

does anyone know what size tires are stock on the evader.....i need to order new tires for my losi clawz...............and also i got universal moounts for a new body but dont know where to mount them to the chassis...............help please

[bomber 1]

the tires ar 2.2

[pudder]

I couldn't tell you where exactly to mount your new posts because I am not sure about what body and all you are running. But I can give you a suggestion of were to place your posts---try to find a spot where there is not much flex, a spot that could take a bit of stress easily. Also, a spot that can be mounted to easily.

[orbitron]

Loki - This is what I did.See here. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/universal.html)
With this set up I can run any body on my truck.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/ptcruiser/passside.JPG

[rcguy2477]

Finally, i am going to race on saturday. I was just wondering, is a 2400 good enough?? The main is 7 minutes long while the heats are 4 minutes. I am using ether a 15t or 13t in it. Also, the races are on a parking lot. Hopefully the evader will pull through and win.

orbitron- nice bodies, how did you do the last one(pt cruiser)?

[acrobidoux]

Hey Everyone,

I am looking to replace the Photon with something reliable and rebuildable. I am looking for a mod motor of good quality.

Has anyone ever used or know about the Team Orion Havok motors, they seem to be well made and are inexpensive. I can go down as low as a 12 turn motor, just recently bought a new ESC. I am thinking of getting another truck and using my new ESC in that when I receive my warrantied Sprint ESC back from Duratrax, that is why I was looking at an affordable motor like the Havok. I am going to put my new LRP ESC in the new truck and put a hot low turn motor in that.

Thanks for the input,

Drew

[rcguy2477]

if i were you i would get a speed gems pro. They are much better than the havok motors. The speed gems are only about $30. Remember, you get what you pay for.

[acrobidoux]

I want to use this motor with the stock ESC when I get my replacement back. I am thinking of getting a Stampede and putting my LRP ESC in that and putting in a hot mod motor in the pede. How is the gearing on the pede, how low a turn motor can it handle?

Trinity Speed Gem 2 Quartz 19T Double Motor to play it safe with the Stock Sprint ESC

OR

Trinity Speed Gem Pro Amber 17T Double Motor to get more umph!!

Should I just spend the 35 bucks and get the custom idler and diff gear and really hop up the Vader. The plastic on this truck is so weak, I just hate to throw so much money at it. I like the handling and fun the 'Vader offers but have had nothin' but trouble with it.

[rcguy2477]

the pede is a very tough car. My friend has one with an eleven turn motor. The only thing that he has brocken so far is a shock from going on a jump than into a basketball pole, and he burnt his spur gear with the hot motor, although the spur still worked he replaced it

[acrobidoux]

RCGuy2477,

Thanks for the info on the pede. But which motor should I get for the 'vader.

The speed gem 2 19 turn to play it safe

or

The speed gem pro 17 turn and hope I don't fry the Stock ESC when I put it back in.

thanks again for the feedback,

Drew

[AznJunkie]

acrobidoux - I believe Pudder used a 17t motor with the sprint esc and he said it work fine.

Out of those two I would go with the SG 17t. I tried a Trinity Chameleon 19t spec motor and I really like it. You can give that a try.


AznJunkie

[pudder]

I have never used a 17 turn motor, but I have used a 15 turn single with the Sprint. It did work fine and never even overheated, that was running in my Pede going through long grass, snow, jumps, a bunch of crap. It was suprising!

[Preston]

Hi Folks,

This is my first post. Just today, after about a week of comparing different Electric Stadium Trucks, I decided the Evader ST was perfect truck for me, so I ordered myself one today from Tower, as well as the Intellipeak Charger. I currently also own a Maximum BX, but this is going to be my first time with Electric.

Anyways, I have a question:

If I want to put a 27 turn stock motor into the Evader, what else must I change? Do I have to change the Gear ratio at all? or can i just bolt in the 27 turn motor and be ok?

Also, will a 27 turn give me more run time then the Photon 20?

Thanks in advance!

[k_sw31]

You should be just fine bolting on a stock motor. If you notice you have too much torque and lack some speed then you may want to get a bigger pinion.

Chances are you'll be going a little faster and getting better run time. :)

[rcguy2477]

you should change the pinion, but i dont no what one would work the best as i do not have a stock motor. U can use the stock gearing but you sometimes can get better performance if you change it. The stock motor that you get should make the run time longer. Do you know what one you are getting?

[Preston]

Basically, my biggest concern is burning something out, so even if my truck is somewhat slower, I just want to make sure going to a 27 turn motor will not hurt anything mechanically or electronically.

I am not sure what stock motor I will end up getting, Any suggestions?

I want to have one that I can service myself. I also want one that will get me the most run times between service.

I read that some stock motors are designed so that they cannot be taken appart. Is that true?

Tower says my truck shipped today already, I hope it doesn't really take 2-6 weeks to arrive....

Here's another question: Will Losi XXXT wheels fit the Evader, or only XXT wheels?

[k_sw31]

Preston, you should definatly not be burning anything out with a 27 turn, and even if you do end up running a little to low or a little to high then the results will not be catastrophic, maybe just a little drop in run time, etc.

Well, here is what I have heard on stock motors:
Trinity
Monster Horsepower- very high rpm
p2k and p2k2- the stock motors tend to have much more torque than others
Reedy MVP- From what I have heard, it is a good "midrange" power.

There are a few other motors out there, but those are what I have the best knowledge of.

I think the MVP would probably work best for you, but all those motors are good, and you shouldn't have much trouble (with some instructions) working on them. :)

Also, tower is seems to be really good in terms of shipping. I tend to get my orders 3 days to 8 days after it has been shipped. :)

[pudder]

Both truck's rims will fit.

On the subject of stock motors, I would have to say that the Reeyd MVP is my favorite. It has lots of torque, and a fair top speed. It does run a bit warmer in contrast to other stock motors, but does not seem to impair performance.

My second favorite stock motor would have to be the Trinity P2k 2 Pro. It delivers similar performance as the MVP, and is made for medium length tracks. Trinity also offers the P2k, meant for smaller tracks, and GM3 which is meant for longer tracks. In other words P2k has low RPM for acceleration, P2k 2 has a good balance, as well as the MVP, which are good for a variety of tracks, and the GM3 is meant for more speed with High rpm.

There is also a few other brands out there, but I don't have much experience with them.

Good luck.

[acrobidoux]

I decided to go with the Speed Gem Pro 17 turn motor. I ordered Deans connectors to change everything over and a new Crowd Pleazer XXXT body. Now, I get to try my hand at a custom paint job...oh boy:eek:

Thank you rcguy2477 and pudder for your suggetions and help. I will let you know how things run once I get this truck back together.

Have a good night/day!

Drew

[speedy gonnalo]

Hey guys . I have some money saving tips.

1. BLUE,RED,YELLOW,ETC. BALL CUPS= T o save a few dollars on ball cups go to a crafts store like wal mart and look by the models for whatever color ball cups you want. go home, snap the ball cups off and paint.

This will work on anything else that is plastic.

[TeamMishap]

Just got home from vacation today, and my new metal idler and drilled out AE diff gear were in the mail.

The idler is a quality piece of work. How two modified pinions can be stuck together with such precision, I'll never know.

The AE 2.40:1 diff gear is almost a direct Evader fit. Only mod done was drilling the center hole out to 9mm. If I toast this one when my new BL setup comes, I'll get the aluminum diff gear and have it machined. Everyone says the AE diff is bulletproof even though it's plastic. We'll see.

[k_sw31]

The only AE diff I have seen go under was in a Rc10 Gt, with a .15 cv-r (> 1.5 hp!) and some really tough driving, but the gears didn't strip, the balls started to tear out of the holes...

[AznJunkie]

TeamMishap - Good to see you got the metal idler & mod diff. Like I said very high quality. I'm sure it can handle the power if BL. If it doesn't......:rolleyes:

[pudder]

AE has the strongest trannies I have ever seen and used. :)

[racerdave]

1 year old. We are the original owner. Good shape, the body has some scrapes on it but no cracks any where. The chasis is not broke or craked anywhere. Original motor,esc,servo and radio. Needs rear tires.The rear tires are worn down but work great on the driveway. A new pair of Pro Lines included but they are not mounted. Includes new in bags: Front body mount;Front bulkhead;Front brace;Front shocktower. Also 1 used Orion Pilot 19turn motor.Manual/parts list included. No problems with car. My son is getting a street car and we need bench space. $100.00 plus actual shipping charges.
I attached a pic, not sure if it will load. I can send pics if anybody is interested. racerdave E-mail if interested

[racerdave]

my e-mail is: scanone@prodigy.net

[Spellspt]

About to purchase some Evader ST trucks for my local track, a Stock class RENT a Race kind of deal.

Getting 6 to 12 Evader ST's (going to use split crystals)

We need to know what kind of Run times we can expect from the following battery classes.

1900Mah NiCd sport packs
2400Mah NiCd sport packs
2400Mah NiCd Race packs (Vis enhanced, not matched)
3000Mah NiMH sport packs
3300Mah NiMH Race packs (Vis and matched)

Also, any ideas for the spare parts bin would be of great help.

Thanx
James

[loki4112]

can ne 1 help me choose the right deans connectors/or ones that are good.....i have a 17t trinity motor and stock esc.....also what size gears and which ones can i get to make it even faster.....thankyou

[orbitron]

Spellspt - I don't know about batteries but the parts necessary for your bin are...
1. Front body mount
2. Front shock tower
3. Front control arms
4. Front c-hubs
5. Front bulkhead

Note all of these are at the front. If you don't have any solid barriers the renters (read rookies) wil probably only break bulkheads.
P.S. You stole my idea!:D

[Spellspt]

orbitron:

Looks like Alu-bulkhead is on the list of parts to buy!..

I'm going to make the track ... NOOBIE friendly.

Heres some ideas, and Please post yours... we share and both benefit.

Wide & banked turns (read as.... almost full speed turns), but designed to have a fast/controlled path for the Exp-driver.

On a section of doubles, I will have alum-roofing (the kind that looks like this ~~~~~). This will straigthen the cars out before take off.

Track is still in the planning, I have to see what will fit in my land.

Anyway... Anyone can give my battery times?

James

[pudder]

I have a track myself in my backyard. It is only a dirt oval, but it is better than nothing. I do have an 8.5 acre yard, but only a small space where anyone would let me build a track...

Here is a picture I took in late spring this year, before the grass started to come in again.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/raceway/DSC04854.JPG

[TeamMishap]

I can see jumps in at least one of the straights....hehehehe

[acrobidoux]

Hey Everyone,

I just got in my new Speed Gems Pro 17turn double mod motor and have a few questions.

On the packaging it says that there are 3 surface mount capacitors on the motor. Where are these??, they are not jumping out at me!

Also, it says to break in the motor with three cells or a 3.5 volt power supply. What other things do you guys use, other than three cells...I don't want to solder three cells together just to break in motors.

I see on the plastic part of the endbell there is a plus sign to the side of the bearing. So I know that side is positive. However, there are four mounting posts on the motor. I believe you are supposed to solder the wires to the posts that are next to the brush springs. Is this correct?

What timing should I set the motor to? And what is the direction + and - on the timing?

Finally, I am using the standard 88t spur gear. Where should I start as far as pinon size? I have both even and odd size pinons.

Thanks for reading and responding to this long post,

Drew

[pudder]

Hmm, try about 2 teeth smaller than the Photon and go from there. It is good to start low and work your way up. As far as breaking in goes, you could just let your motor sit hooked up to your ESC at maybe 20% throttle for a few mins.

The surface mount caps are not visible. There is two under the brush hoods on one side, and the other one it on the top of the endbell just under the bearing/bushing in the plastic. They are all removable BTW.

[Preston]

Well Pudder, I've spent some time on your website lately, awsome video's. I must have dowloaded at least 20 of them. I especially like the ones in the snow.

You like bashing with your Pede eh? Do you have any vids with your Evader in it?

For bashing, what truck between the T3 and the Pede, would you pick based strickly on durability?

P.S. I'm a fellow Canadian, any tips for setting up your truck for snow?

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by acrobidoux
Also, it says to break in the motor with three cells or a 3.5 volt power supply. What other things do you guys use, other than three cells...I don't want to solder three cells together just to break in motors.


I don't know if this is a great idea, but the idea is to wear the brushes so they shape onto the comm. I chuck the output shaft into my dremel and spin it on low. Seems to do OK.

[pudder]

Originally posted by Preston
Well Pudder, I've spent some time on your website lately, awsome video's. I must have dowloaded at least 20 of them. I especially like the ones in the snow.

You like bashing with your Pede eh? Do you have any vids with your Evader in it?

For bashing, what truck between the T3 and the Pede, would you pick based strickly on durability?

P.S. I'm a fellow Canadian, any tips for setting up your truck for snow?

Well, glad you like the site. I don't think I have any Evader vids, and to tell you the truth, my Evader probably won't go again. It needs too much $$$ to get going and I have 3 other cars that need looking after right now. :)

I would take the pede for durability. The only thing I would have to say is that the features aren't as good as the evader, as in I would take the Evader over the pede for racing, but for bashing almost nothing beats the pede. I need to get an aluminum idler though since my plastic ones kept stripping.

I should have some new vids on my site soon, it is exam time right now so I don't have too much time on my hands, plus I work on my ATV quite a bit too. :)

[Preston]

Will most any pinion fit on the Evader? Like say, an Associated 48 pitch 15T pinion?

I know some call for a 1/8" motor shaft, while others call for 3mm, which is only 6 thou difference. But will they fit?

Reason I ask is because I am going to put on Proline Masher 2000's on my Evader, and I want to drop the pinion down to compensate for the greater diameter tire.

The stock Evader tire is 90mm, and is run with a 20T pinion,
The Masher 2000's are 124mm, so therefore the stock tires are 72.6% smaller Dia then the Mashers, applying this to the pinion to make up for the lost torque, I get: 20T x .726 = 14.5T
So I figure running a 15T pinion with my Mashers will give me the same speed and torque where the rubber meets the ground, as the stock setup.

I would just run the stock pinion with the Mashers, but I read that the greater tire diameter can cause the motor/ESP to get too hot.

Thanks for anyones help.

[AznJunkie]

Yes the Associated Pinion will work. Just make sure the pinion you want to use is 48 pitch with 1/8” shaft.

[pudder]

Just make sure to use a standard 48 ptch pinion. Tamiya's will not fit because they are metric or something like that.

[speedy gonnalo]

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/00gmc/images/fsc/smilies/cookoo.gif

[speedy gonnalo]

mmhhmm

[speedy gonnalo]

Originally posted by speedy gonnalo
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/00gmc/images/fsc/smilies/cookoo.gif
On my truck, i have a blue motor guard, blue shock bushings, blue tranny cover, special made blue body mounts, blue ball cups,blue battery strap,blue knuckle arms and my shocks are backwards like the b4 from associated. Like my work of art and saving money? I only spent $2.99.

[Preston]

Question:

Does the Photon motor need to be broken in when it comes in the RTR Evader? Or is it pre-broken in?

[rcguy2477]

The phanton motor needs to be broken in. All you have to do is let it run on a few sc batteries for about 10 minutes. The motors that are pre-broken in are usually broken in on a dyno.

[WVEvaderST]

I am wanting to get a new motor and dont really know what would be a good choice. I am not going to be racing anytime soon so it will be used for bashing only. Has anyone tried the Tower Hobbies Speed Stocker 27T? Would it be any better than the photon speed than came stock or is it a waste of money. I have also been looking at the P2k2 but it is about 2 times the price of the tower hobbies one. Will it give considerably more performance? Are there any other motors that you would recommend?

[rcguy2477]

the tower hobbies is a copy off of some old motor and isnt that good performance wise. It does work well, probably better than the phantom but the p2k2 will give you the most increase in performance. The p2k is also a good motor and gives out more torque but is not as fast as the p2k2.

[WVEvaderST]

I am wondering what wt shock oil everyone is using. I have a shock that has a seal busted or something and is leaking oil a little bit. I dont race and just bash so what wt would you recommend for jumping? Also what is the stock wt oil?

[AznJunkie]

I believe the stock oil is 20wt. I used 35wt and it seem to help a bit with jumps.

[TeamMishap]

As soon as my gold connectors come in, I'll be BL Evader boy again! Needed to make extensions, the stock wires weren't long enough to connect. Should be well within the recommended wire length Hacker suggests.

Can't wait to tear up the tranny again so I can put the new aluminum idler and AE diff gear in.

[WVEvaderST]

Thanks for the info. I got another question. I was just wondering if I get a P2K2 I could put different armature in it like a speed gem armature or one to a chameleon?

[pudder]

Never put a modified armature into a stock motor can. The increased RPM of a mod will fry the bushings in a stock can pretty fast, also the timing is too much to run without a lot of arcing on the comm.

[acrobidoux]

Pudder,

What timing should I set my Speed Gems Pro 17turn mod motor at?

Also, how can I tell which direction to turn the armature for positive and negative timing?

Thanks for your help,

Drew

[pudder]

Um, to tell you the truth, I don't know. I am fairly new to the setup of mod motors, and I havent been racing mod this year so I am behind on what I should know. However I do know that you should have it between 20 and 0 degrees timing. Having it at a higher degree will increase RPM and having at a lower degree will increade torque.

I hope that helps some if nothing...

[guver]

rotate endbell against motor rotation (opposite of the way the shaft rotates) to advance timing. Rotate it with rotation (the same way as motor spins) to retard.

[acrobidoux]

The motor came out of the package set at about 5 degrees positive, I will have to double check when I get home. The way it is now, the truck has too much torque and not enough top end.

I think I will try 15 degrees on the positive side and see how the torque and top speed run with that.

Thanks again for the info!

Drew

[thetimboroni]

Hey howdy!
Sorry folks I haven't been posting here in a while, mainly because I've been waiting on a new battery to come in, because the PowerMaxx batteries just aren't a good deal... Anyways, I'm ordering some stuff off of Tower and I'm wondering what front foam bumper will fit the Evader. I know this has been previously posted, but I can't find it...
Thanks
Tim

[pudder]

Why exactly do you want a foam bumper?

[RCGuru1]

New to the Evader board jus wanted to say hi.. so HI!!! lol Well I've been reading the board for a while and I bash my evader on an outdoor track with a Speed Gems 17T Pro and I havent had any problems with breaking stuff. Seems I hear alot of ppl say these evaders arent durable. Trannys jus have to be adjusted properly. I rebuilt the diff a couple times before I realized how it needed to be adjusted. Used to my pede setup which is very different. Seems like a Losi with graphite would break easier than an evader. I think it mostly comes down to proper adjustment. Well
thats my 2 cents. Later!

[TeamMishap]

Broke down and bought the aluminum rear brace. Kept pulling the ball studs out of the plastic ones on big jumps.

Couple more days and the B50 meets the EVST!

[k_sw31]

How many cells? :D

[TeamMishap]

Just six...for starters

[speedy gonnalo]

hhmmmm

[speedy gonnalo]

this can be screwed.

[rcguy2477]

about a month ago i got a new hitec hs-625mg servo. When i put i in it worked fine for a week but then the servo arm came loose. I took apart the whole front end and put it back on all the way and tightend the screw. After that it has not worked normally. After about 10 times taking the front end apart just to fix this, i am getting sick and tired of it. Is there a way to fix this or am i just stuck with it?

[pudder]

Put threadlock on the screw. I have two of these servos and on both the screws will back out unless I put some threadlock on.

[rcguy2477]

i tried threadlock, superglue, new scews, and a new arm. Are the arms that are stock ment for futaba servos?

[pudder]

Yes, the stock arms are meant for Futaba servos. I would reccomend using the blue aluminum one that comes with your servo. It should fit.

[Henry G]

Hi guys, I'm shopping for an electric basher this summer. I just wanna know if you guys are satisfied with the general quality and durability of this vehicle. Do you guys think that the st would make a better basher than the bx? Before you instantly jump to saying yes, let me tell you where I run. I will be running it in a field that has mowed vegetation. IT's sparcely seperated. There are small patches of loose gravel. most is prety hard packed. It's very flat out there.
-thanks in advance!

[Preston]

Well, I would still go with the ST in your situation. An ST will drive in the vegitation better then a buggy, because of the ground clearance, and the larger tire surface. Plus, there are more fun tire options you can get for your truck, while most of the buggy tires are meant for racing, and may not be so good for bashing.

I own the Evader ST, and I think it is great, I've run about 20 packs through it in the last 3 days (I got it about a week ago), and have yet to break any parts.

My other suggestion would be the Traxxas Stampede, though I've never driven one, it is on the top of my wish list for my next vehicle. I would actually order one today, but my cat broke her femur, and it just cost me $450 to get a pin placed in her leg to fix it....

I have seen lots of vids on the net of people bashing with Stampedes, and they seem very durable. Plus, I may be wrong, but I get the impression that they have a stronger tranny, as I have seen vids of guy's running them brushless, and by the way things are going, brushless is going to become less and less expensive, so maybe in a few years, the majority of us will be running brushless. Maybe the Evader could handle brushless, but I think there is a guy on this very forum that tried that, and it didn't work too well for him with the Evader.

Well, thats my 2 cents. Go with the truck either way.

[Preston]

I’d like to take a minute here to say LONG LIVE ELECTRIC R/C!

Now let me tell you all a little story…

Three years ago, I got my introduction to radio control. I had just gotten a big bonus at work, and I decided the best way to burn some of it would be to finally get a start in the hobby that I had had my eye on for so long. So I drove down to My LHS, and walked over to a box that caught my eye. I was an RC10T3 Kit, electric, calling my name. Just as I went to pick it up, the storeowner says to me, “you don’t want that, Nitro is the only way to go. Electrics are on their way out.” he then says, “Follow me.” He walks me over to a huge stack of Duratrax Maximum BX’s and tells me that this is the car for me.

So there I am, Mr. Newbie, and this guy is feeding me tons of B.S. about how Nitro’s are so much better, and to not waste my money on Electric. Now, having seen my brother and the trouble he had with his glow powered planes, I was skeptical. So I ask the guy, “But is this really for me? I mean I never had an RC car before, and I want something easy to start, and maintain.”, Mr. B.S. replies, ”No No No, nitro is so easy, you will have no trouble at all….” (As you can see, I don’t think to highly of this LHS owner, personally I think he is a Scheister.)

So anyways, in the end I make the mistake of letting him talk me into it, and after being extremely ripped off, I buy the Maximum BX…. He charged me $750. I had no idea…

I get the thing home, and I have the hardest time starting it, Not Duratrax’s fault, I simply didn’t know what I had gotten myself into. LHS guy is no help, every time I went in there he just sold some me more stuff, “You need new glow plugs…$7.99……. New Fuel, yours is bad…. $34.99….. New fuel line, yours must have a pinhole…..ETC”

Anyways, lets jump 3 years forward. I buy an Evader ST, and I love it. Love the fact that it always goes when I want it to. I love the fact that it only takes me 10 minutes to clean it with compressed air, and a toothbrush, rather than the one hour it takes to clean my Nitro with soap, water, and degreaser. I love how I can run my car and not tick off the neibours, and how I can run it in my basement when it rains outside. And I love how I can simply recharge my batteries, and not have to keep buying fuel all the time, let alone being covered in it after running my car.

Plus, get this, I ordered my Evader from Tower and it cost me $229 Canadian. So just for fun I want to “Mr. I hate electrics” LHS, to see what he was charging for the Evader, and get this. He is charging $469 Canadian! For the same truck I paid $229 for! No wonder I got ripped of when I bought my Maximum BX.

Lastly, I don’t want this to seem like I am bashing Nitro’s. I have learnt quite a bit, and when I do run my Maximum BX (although very rarely do I bother running it), I have fun with it, Nitro and all (it is bloody fast!). It’s just that I like electric so much better. And I can’t stress this last point enough: LHS owners should not be pushing Nitro’s on newbies, just to make a bigger buck.

[pudder]

Okay, if anyone wants a good lot of parts, here is your chance. I don't know how much I want for the whole lot, and I MIGHT sell parts separate if the offer is fair enough.

DuraTrax Evader:

Comes will all you see here.

-no bearings are included

-shocks need rebuilding

-screws and other parts may be needed

Send any offers to mikes_st@hotmail.com

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05447.JPG

[TeamMishap]

Ran my B50 in the Evader yesterday. Didn't kill anything. I ran it with crappy batts. Can't wait to put my GPs in there. Then it ought to fry the transmission.

[k_sw31]

a hacked evader eh? ;)

[WVEvaderST]

Can someone please tell me how to adjust a diff properly? I am not really sure on how to do and dont want to mess it up. Thanks for any help.

[TeamMishap]

Just picked up the Aug R/C Car mag and it has a great ball diff guide in it.

It's got a lot of great tips, but for simplicity, most here seem to tighten the diff till it's locked down, then back of 1/8th turn.

[speedy gonnalo]

LIVEN THIS PLACE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pudder]

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02986.JPG

[speedy gonnalo]

Why was the cat sitting on the dish washer?

[k_sw31]

That would be the infamous pudder.

[pudder]

I'm trying to liven up this thread like I was told to.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC03619.JPG

[speedy gonnalo]

Wowhttp://mywebpages.comcast.net/00gmc/images/fsc/smilies/cookoo.gif

[orbitron]

Here's a bunch of pics of all the bodies I have for my truck. Liven it up. :D
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mini/minidrivfront.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/ptcruiser/passside.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc/rightfronttint.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/willys/frontlow.JPG

[Preston]

Anyone ever use Team Orion Havoc motors?

I put one in my evader this morning. A 21 turn. Its noticably faster than running with the Photon Speed.

Stupid thing I did though was strip one of the threaded holes on the motor can. Guess I tightened it up too much because it just kept on spinning..... Good thing there is another set of mounting holes on this motor, or else I would be up the creek....

Anyways when I did get it out on the street, I did some jumps off cardbord ramps. I was jumping a good 16 feet at least in distance, at about 3 feet in the air, maybe tomorrow I'll go out with a tape and get some acurate measurements.

[TeamMishap]

I've got a XXXT body I am painting. I've heard it'll fit the Evader, just have to put the body holes in a different place right. I'm just waiting to get some AlClad Chrome spraypaint to finish it.

If you don't think the body will work too well on the Evader, I think I'll just E-bay it. It's a stars and stripes motif with AlClad Chrome where the stars and white stripes would be. Gonna look cool I think.

[Dirt-Basher03]

What's an easy way to stop the evader from nosediving when jumping:confused:

[AznJunkie]

Keep on the throttle while jumping then let off when the evader is about to hit the ground.

Or take out the foam spacer in the rear of the battery slot and move it to the front. Be warned your battery will go inside the rear part and it’s kinda hard to get the battery out.

[DJ BlendeR]

How long are the shocks both front and rear for the Evader? I am doing a monster truck project and they are the cheapest and most high quality ones I have since found, just hoping that they the right length, and need to know before I order some. Thanks!

[AznJunkie]

Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK1&P=7

Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK2&P=7

[DJ BlendeR]

Aw, jeez, I feel stupid now, I checked on tower hobbies and just looked over the specs. Thanks for the quick response!

[speedy gonnalo]

Hey. I was just wondering if this has ever happenned to anyone else. Yesterday I was at my local track and somebody with a losi xxx-4 ran into me at about 35 mph and broke my outdrive!

[speedy gonnalo]

ok this thread must be dead.

[rcguy2477]

Just because somebody doesnt answer your question within a half an hour doesnt mean the thread is dead!!!
I personally have never broken and outdrive. Was your car still when the xxx-4 hit you? What happened to the xxx-4?

[speedy gonnalo]

Yes, my car was still and the guy said''up yours'' to me. Nothin g happened to his car but i wanted to put the driveshaft up his ass.

[geo8498]

Just got my Evader run over by a car in the back alley tonight. I thought for sure it was history. After inspection, the only things that broke were the rear shock tower, a warped wheel, and a bent shock shaft. Unbelievable, considering it was totally under the wheel of the car. Not a thing happened to the motor, tranny or electronics. Under $10 in repairs and I'll have it back in action.

[rcguy2477]

geeze, thats amazing!!! Take that losi and associated!!

[WVEvaderST]

How do you know when your diff needs rebuilt? When I turn one of the rear wheels on my evader it is not really that smooth and it makes some noise from the tranny (I am assuming this is the diff) if not what could it be? Also how often do you all rebuild your diff? Sorry about all of the questions but I am new to RC and don't want to mess stuff up if I don't have to. Thanks for any help in advance.

[speedy gonnalo]

hmmmm. My computer is screwed up.

[speedy gonnalo]

Does anyone know what the evader outdrivess are made of?:confused:

[rcguy2477]

I am not positive, but i think the outdrives are made of steel.

I have a question, Which on-road tires are the best for grip?
Iwas thinking of eather the road hawgs or the speed hawgs.

[AznJunkie]

Yes the outdrives are steels.

As for on road tires. I have tried both. Both work really well for on road. But for dusty parking lots I would recommend the road hawgs. It seem to grip better IMO.

[rccowboy181]

the one I got is a DAHM'S RAMMER dodge truck body, that says it fits the rc10t3-t2-t and the stadiam blitzer it fits perfectly I will post pics after it is painted

[rcguy2477]

speedy gonnalo got banned, now doesnt that just "livin up this thread"!

[pudder]

Not really surprised, he was makng lots of pointless posts in the B3 thread. More than I have done in this one. :rolleyes:

Oh BTW: If anyone is thinking about getting the colored DuraTrax rims for their evaders, try to avoid them. Instead, get some Losi or Pro-Line rims and dye them. I have the DuraTrax ones on my T3 and after only two weeks of racing, and some bad landings off the jumps, the beads of the rims are already cracking really bad. Good thing I glued my tires good, but still, they shouldnt break that easy. Maybe I will email them a comment about the breakage and see what they have to say. Otherwise they are really nice looking rims.

[guver]

Good point about the wheels, I agree.
RPM are also good, but are offset more and heavier.

[pudder]

Ya, RPM are nice, but I'm mainly talking about dish rims here. :)

[k_sw31]

Yeah my friend was having that same problem with his evader rims. His rims almost wore out before his stock tires did. :p

I just usually stick with rpm and proline my self....:)

[Preston]

Yeah Pudder, one of the rear rims on my Evader broke the first time I drove it. nothing too bad, just chipped a bit out of the edge, but still, they should be a little stronger than that.....

[Mr.sorryman]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
speedy gonnalo got banned, now doesnt that just "livin up this thread"! No, I didn't. I re-registered to apologize for my rudeness and hear people's apologies for laughing at me behind my back.

[dcrc]

Hi folks, what would be the lowest turn motor you'd use in the Evader? I've got the Streak ESC which is good down to 12T, but will the tranny and diff handle a 12T or just grind itself into powder...

Also, in the RC Car Action (I think April issue) there was an article about making the Evader race ready, and among other things it described a procedure for loosening up stiff suspension joints using a high speed drill and a polishing compound. Has anyone here try that with good results?

[rcguy2477]

The evader should be able to handle 12t power. You may need to stock up on spurs and idler gears.

I tried the waxing compound trick on some of the joints. It accually worked. The parts were looser and it made it a little smoother while riding.

As for speedy gonallo aka Mr. Sorryman aka who nows whats next, im sorry for the post i made but admit it, you were annoying. I'm sure many of the people would agree.

[k_sw31]

dcrc, I would personally only go down to a good quality 14 turn in an evader. Even then you maybe pushing it, just stock up on extra idlers as mentioned, if you are blowing stuff left and right then go for the modified AE diff gear and home made metal idler. Unless you are gonna be competitivly racing, I wouldn't bother with the dremel, you could try rubbing some bees wax, teflon lubricant or maybe some wd-40 on the hingepins, but after a few off road runs the suspension will free itself up pretty good. (though you may want to try it on some of the joints that feel really stiff.)

Speedy, why should we apologize? There is no reason not to laugh at someone who acted foolish and annoying, and then paid the consequences. A little embarrassment does you some good.

Apology accepted from your part though.

[rcguy2477]

Originally posted by k_sw31

Speedy, why should we apologize? There is no reason not to laugh at someone who acted foolish and annoying, and then paid the consequences. A little embarrassment does you some good.

Apology accepted from your part though.

exactly:D

[pudder]

Originally posted by rcguy2477
The evader should be able to handle 12t power. You may need to stock up on spurs and idler gears.
\

Just wondering, why did you say stock up on spurs? Although it is a good thing to have lots of spurs. I think I have about 8 87 tooth spurs. :)

[rcguy2477]

I personally have melted a couple spurs with low turn motors. That in part may be because it was to tight. Also, some people like to run without the cover and get debre in the spur which messes up the gear mesh.

[pudder]

Melted? Only gears I have seen melted are from Losis :p

I have gotten 3 30$ gift certificates from Kimbrough so far, so I have stocked up on plenty of spurs. I think so far I have about 130$ CND of spurs just from Kimbrough, I never bought any of them. :D

[rcguy2477]

How'd you get gift certificates from Kimbrough? I wish i got free stuff:(

[pudder]

Won them at the track. Won one each season so far. :) Maybe I'll get another one this year, that would be funny. :)

[goodjerm]

Hi everybody, this is my first post on this site. My EVST has the following upgrades in it:

Duratrax Intellispeed 8T racing esc
Trinity 11T triple speed gem motor
Trinity 17 tooth pinion
Dean's plug with wet noodle wires
TRC wheels & tires (dirt and pavement)
Metal gear servo
Duratrax light (white) springs (using 30 weight shock oil)
Aluminum hinge pin brace (must have)

I have done some racing at the local track in my area and done quite well. No wins but several third and second place finishes (can't seem to beat all of the Losi XXX-T's).