Duratrax Evader ST Forum v3.0 [Archive]

orbitron

01-21-2003, 12:33 AM

pudder - the HPI dodge for the electric looks like there is an insane amount of bulge on the hood, more so than the other models, although it is a dodge... it is also kind of wacky looking I'm not sure if that is good or bad.
I think I will put some universal posts and some scrap aluminum together and make new posts that clip on to the originals. They would jutt down to accomodate the flange on the bottom of the universal and kind of go "around" the shock tower.
Doing this should accomodate all bodies by adjustable mount locations as well as heights. The only problem is the body height in relation to the chassis would suffer. Therefore the truck would appear "top-heavy" and more like a monster truck ,which isn't necessarily bad.

kitty

01-21-2003, 02:20 AM

orbitron - I think aluminum posts on the Evader would be a bad idea. You'd get really tired of bending them back every time you flip on the lid or smack the front end. Plus, what jdm mentioned about them breaking eventually. More flexible posts would be the answer. I've seen a ton of various posts around, but bought a set of extra-long posts made by Kyosho (forget which model they're for, but I can find the part number of anyone wants it) pretty cheap. Bolink makes some universal posts that you can cut to fit and they aren't expensive.

ginshun - very nice looking ride! I'd be afraid to drive it, though, but that's just me. Sure is pretty, though!

Pitbull - How that guy you met managed to swap xxxt parts to his Evader but can't figure out why it doesn't go any faster with the 11t motor than the stock Photon is beyond me. He has to be doing something wrong. I don't see how he can't fit a smaller spur gear on it either. Oh well. He could tighten his diff a little bit to keep from fishtailing off the line.

One word about doing wheelies by going from reverse to forward - Stop! You'll toast your tranny faster than anything doing that. I don't have any hop-ups to share, as I just put my Evader back into near-stock condition because I'm selling it. The only differences are RPM ball cups, coloured shock mounts and white springs. Big whoop heh

spreckenzy, with that motor you should get a good torque/top end combination. As for what pinion to use, that would depend on how much top end you want. I was using a 20-tooth with my Green Machine 3 Pro and got great top end and super torque; I could have gone larger without any problems, except during the summer (it would heat the motor up a bit more and it gets really hot here). For both motors I have run in my Evader, I have always hit top speed in a matter of about 2 seconds at most. As for tires, it depends on what type of terrain you'll be running your truck on. Good, all-around tires are Pro-Line Dirt Hawg IIs on all four wheels, but if you put it on a dirt track that's fairly hard packed, or really loose sand/dirt mix, it'll be hard to control. In that case, I'd use a set of Bow Ties on the rear and some sort of ribbed tires on the front.

ZootMan - it's great that you didn't listen to the Duratrax haters. Sure, the Evader isn't the toughest truck out of the box, but for the price it's great and fun as can be. I think the Duratrax Intellispeed 8T ESC is under $100, but I can't remember if it's forward only or not. If you need/want forward/reverse, Stormer Hobbies (http://www.stormerhobbies.com) has the Super Rooster for like $109 (cheaper than Tower). No motor limit and you can run up to 10 cells on it. They have a great reputation too.

bullfrog

01-21-2003, 03:03 AM

Hey how do you guys like you evaders? I'm looking to get the buggy version and i just wanted to know what are the parts that break the most on it so i can stock up on them. Thanks.

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 09:39 AM

kitty,
i just bash the car in the back yard, park, and parking lots. so the surfaces are hard pack dirt, grass, and pavement/asphalt.

what tires would serve those purposes best?

pudder

01-21-2003, 09:54 AM

Orbitron, yes I know the HPI body has a large "bulge", that is not my point. My point is where it needs the "bulge" I don't think there is "bulge" on that spot of the body. For examply, my T3 body has plenty of "bulge" but my Evader's shock towers are farther spread apart on the Evader than the T3, so there is no "bulge" where there needs to be to fit the T3 body on Evader and vice versa.

Spreckenzy- Your servo brace should be on its way... Also for the tires question:

Pro Line Dirt Hawgs or Dirt Works will work good in your case, as well as the new Losi tire Team Losi has out. I like the look of the Losi tire over the Pro-Line ones. Check it out if you havent seen it... www.teamlosi.com

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 10:16 AM

pudder you like these losi tires?[URL=http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/smasher.htm]

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 10:18 AM

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/smasher.htm

pudder

01-21-2003, 10:49 AM

Ya I like those a lot. :)

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 10:51 AM

the smasher tire is $14.95 U.S. at stormer hobby.

ronbeck

01-21-2003, 11:02 AM

i run the big bore t-maxx shocks on my truck. you might need a rebuild kit to use limiters on the front. lots of nose up since the big bore are longer. and you will need some washers to lock down the top of the shock. and save the bottoms of your dtx shocks. the trx pivot ball will not fit into the evader a-arms without trimming. :D

jep
ran my truck friday. love the new bumper! and brace. hit a rut(from dump truck) and sent my truck spinning sideways! nothing broke but ended up in a 5 inch deep puddle. ohhh s......
but let things drip dry alittle, then took everything apart and dryed it. no problehms. most fun i have had in three months with it:D
jep thanks for the parts.

peter

ronbeck

01-21-2003, 11:35 AM

the hpi mt bodies minus the baja are the same. exept the front grill is little different. the biggest challenge to mounting a mt body is the "REAR" body posts. the my and rustler mount with one post in the middle of the rear shock tower. so the body will have larg gaps. between the body and chassis like my baja. will fill up with dirt. just fyi. peter:D

PITBULL

01-21-2003, 12:27 PM

I put in a 17 turn speed gems 2 motor in my evader the other day and let me tell you.. .. it halls now.. the power seems to have close to doubled. I can start out from a still possition and kick rocks and dirt up. The thing is super tourqey. I recomend if you put in a 17 turn into your evader to make sure you soften up your rear shocks-get the softest sprins possible, and some new tires. i still have the same oh stock tires, but i'm looking into getting some streets. my evader is fast.. i clocked it over 30mph

ginshun

01-21-2003, 01:10 PM

Are you using the stock ESC with that 17 turn, or have you upgraded the ESC as well?

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 02:34 PM

Theres no worse way to lose your esc than seeing it melt all over your chasis(figuratively speeking).Im not saying that you should'nt run a low turn motor with a 20+ turn speed control,but that is because ive not tried it for myself.

Please tell us what speed control your using.......And if you had any "tranny strain".

PITBULL

01-21-2003, 03:00 PM

i'm using the stock speed control.. i checked it out prior with duratrax and other people that have done the same.. as well as a few lhs's(to make sure it was okay). Duratrax said that the esc can and does support a 17 turn modified motor. I've kept constant check of the temperature of the esc and it getts warm after 3, 7 minute runs in a row, but no warmer than when I had the photon 20 turn stock motor. The only down side is that there is a slight decrease in run time.. but not by much at all.. and it's worth though. So, the esc doesnt get hot, and everything works great..

pudder

01-21-2003, 03:01 PM

It seems like we have some new members on here... I thought you guys might want to see this. I posted this a while ago too, but I'll do it again for old times sake...

This was taken from my site...

Go to the bottom of page to see pictures)

I became inspired by this project when I broke my Evader's chassis after landing the rear end of my chassis on the edge of a step from an 8 foot jump... also buy another guy who has already done this, but not quite like I did mine.

I started looking at the truck one night, remembering this other truck that was made, and well that is where I got the idea to do this.

I started out by taking a battery and measuring the width of two cells on the chassis right behind the front brace since that is where I would place the battery. I then made my line across the chassis and cut it. After that I did some customizing to the rear chassis plate, and removing the rest of the broken chassis, I drilled 4 holes in the chassis and rear chassis plate. I had some spare screws lying over from project RC10 and nuts to finish, so I used those. At this point, the chassis still has lots of flex so I rigged up an aluminum brace, it doesn't help with the flex too much but it does make the overall look better and a nice spot to mount the battery on. For the antenna mount I couldn't use the stock one on the chassis so instead of borrowing one off of my other cars I drilled into the top plate and the chassis, then drilling another hole in the chassis to mount (see the picture for understanding better). For easy access, I glued a strip of velcro to the top plate, but sadly while drilling the antenna holes I somehow cut the wire and had to replace it. As usual, I just ziptied the ESC to the shock tower. Battery mounting was also easy, I just had to drill 2 holes on either side of the chassis and thread a ziptie through it.

For electronics I used my Novak Racer ESC, a stock 27t motor, nice low gearing, and JR XR3 radio. My first run was in my living room/kitchen with those narrow ribbed tires and losi step pins on the rear. My suspension was way too stiff and I kept flipping backwards from the power. I then softened the springs up, the truck now sat lower and swapped the step pins for some Pro-line Road Rage 2 tires. The truck was low enough so that it didn't flip backwards, and so I don't wear down those step pins too much.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02263.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02268.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02279.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02280.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02278.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02277.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02275.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02276.JPG

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 03:01 PM

I think this question has been answered, but can roy put parts from lets say a matt frances edition onto an evader?I know that wen you stengthen a part,another gets weaker,but i need some replacements.

pudder

01-21-2003, 03:07 PM

You need to have parts for XXT, MF Losi is XXXT.

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 03:09 PM

Nice ride.

I have never thought of having buggy tires in front.Do they make a big difference?

P.S. I like your cat.

pudder

01-21-2003, 03:18 PM

pudder

01-21-2003, 03:18 PM

stupid double post...

pudder

01-21-2003, 03:23 PM

Actually those skinny tires are RC10 T tires from years back...
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01365.JPG

These are buggy tires:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01361.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01360.JPG

And the cat is Pudder. :)

A little something about pudder:

Features:

Extra Large footers front and rear (24 toes in all)

Thick skin and layer of fat for durability

Long whiskers

Missing right ear tip from cold tempering

Removed testicles from being neutered

Chipped right fang

Pudder is a fat cat. He enjoys licking his scrotum. He enjoys eating butter. He is sometimes called "Butter". He is very lazy most of the time, but does get really hyper sometimes and attacks everything in site. On a daily basis Pudder likes to eat, sleep, meow at people, attack things and chase around the other cat. Pudder is originally from Ashern, Manitoba, Canada. His favorite food is butter. His favorite color is brown. He has a scratching post which he likes to scratch on, sleep on, and play with the toys on it. He really hates the vacume because it looks like a snake to him and he will run away from it and hiss and such. When he wants out of a room, or inside or something he will start to scratch on the door and meow, it really is annoying and a very good strategy to make him get out. In the summer time he usually spends his time outside hunting for mice and other small animals like birds and rats, he also enjoys lying on the deck. In the winter time he sleeps a lot since he doesn't like the way the cold feels on his fat, so he sits on a heat register in the kitchen, taking up all of it. I think his favorite place to sleep is under a bed cover, he somehow gets under it and sleeps there. Once in a while if he is in the mood he will chase the other cat, Sparky, or play with things that are lying on the floor like a piece of cereal or a pen. Sometimes he will get bored, sniff around and lick the floor if he finds something that smells good. His real name is Renagade, which is the name of a country band. We like Pudder better, so that is what we call him.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02986.JPG

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 03:55 PM

LOL..........

Thanx for the info.The skinny front tires look pretty sweet though,giving it a "ghetto look".Im sure that many cats lick their scrotums and im sure lots of humans would too if they were able to.Not that i would'nt ;) .By the way,your cat has nice features...where did you purchase it..LOL.

Thanx again

pudder

01-21-2003, 04:12 PM

I think it says there...

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 04:51 PM

Does anyone know a good place to buy aluminum hopups for the evader online besides tower hobbies?

And if you put the buggy tires on the car wouldnt you get higher torq because of smaller mass?

pudder

01-21-2003, 05:29 PM

More torque because smaller tires, have to gear up a bit. That is why if you look at virtually the same cars (B3, T3) you will see the B3 has a smaller spur than T3 to make up for difference. In general I find that I get better accel with buggies than trucks, one of the reasons I like buggies a lot.

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 05:56 PM

OK........that is good to hear.I might experiment with different gearing.

So you said that you can only put xxt parts on the evader.Are those still in production?

Could you also put an xxt differential into an evader?

Does your evaders gearbox sound abnormaly louder than another stadium truck?

pudder

01-21-2003, 06:12 PM

Only XXT parts. I don't know if they are still in production or what, I don't pay much attention to losi parts.

I am also not sure if the diff would fit, and I don't see why you would want it to since you can upgrade the current one I think.

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 06:48 PM

It seems that it is just me and pudder in this conversation......i think everyone basically goes on at nite.Either that or we can fear for the worst.........this forum is getting boring to them!Ill just hope that its not.

ZootMan

01-21-2003, 06:50 PM

I almost forgot to ask.How long does it take for it to say im a member instead of a new member?

pudder

01-21-2003, 06:59 PM

I think it is 50 or 100 posts.. I am not sure. I think it goes New Member until 100, then member, Senior Member at 500 and then at 1000 a Certifiable RC Zone Addict. I forget since I have been over 1000post for a long time.

k_sw31

01-21-2003, 07:02 PM

Well, a whole lot of people aren't on during the day because of jobs and school ;)

Yeah, it takes 50 or 100 posts to become a member, then senior member, etc... :)

Nemo

01-21-2003, 08:07 PM

Hey I got a feq questions here. First of all pudder I see you send your esc in and got a new one free, what did you say when you sent it in, mine doesnt work im pretty sure it got some water in it a while ago but if I send it in with all the plastic parts im sending in tommorow would they charge me and how much? Also, im not selling my evader but I think Im gonna try putting a stock motor in it cos of the tranny, but what is this way to fix it you guys are talking about, my diff got killed and Im running a 13x2 p94 on 6 or 7 cells, would that kill it even with the new thing you guys are talking about? Also Ive never really cut aluminum to make custom stuff, do I have to have access to anything special? Thanks,
Conor

AznJunkie

01-21-2003, 08:17 PM

Man, broke another part today. The front body mount. I really need to work on my landings. Here’s an action shot.

AznJunkie

01-21-2003, 08:17 PM

damn double post

AznJunkie

01-21-2003, 08:17 PM

damn triple post :D

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 08:23 PM

maybe if you stop jumping six feet in the air onto flat asphalt you would not break as many parts. Did you have a landing ramp or did it just land on flat concrete? i built a track in my back yard and started out with big wooden jumps but i was breaking so many parts i toned it down to smaller wooden jumps and the breakage seems to have decreased. i save my big jumps for little kickers jumping down steep hills. this was the truck lands on an incline that is grass, which is much more forgiving than asphalt.

sorry you broke your body mount but i could have been worse!

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 08:26 PM

btw junkie it looks pretty warm where you are. it is ten degrees here. if you did that jump in this temp your evader would be a pile of dust.

pudder

01-21-2003, 08:32 PM

Originally posted by Nemo
Hey I got a feq questions here. First of all pudder I see you send your esc in and got a new one free, what did you say when you sent it in, mine doesnt work im pretty sure it got some water in it a while ago but if I send it in with all the plastic parts im sending in tommorow would they charge me and how much?

All you need to do is send in the bill (prove date of purchase) and if you want, tell them on a piece of paper what is wrong with it. They might charge you if your warranty is up. I guess they didn't charge me because they said they found nothing wrong, when it didn't work for me at all. :( But that is me...

AznJunkie- Try keeping the throttle on while jumping, you could be letting off throttle too soon causing a nose dive.

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 08:34 PM

sorry if sounded harsh but i jumped my evader over a jump about eight inches high then landed perfectly. then i hear the screeching of gears. a small jump for me equalled a broken gearbox case. i was running my truck in a parking lot took a sharp left broke my rear hub. i must have a weaker evader then youe do. consider yourself lucky.

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 08:46 PM

agreed if you let off the throttle in mid air it is guranteed to cause a nosedive.

well i broke down and ordered those rpm starz rims and the new losi smasher all terrain tires for all four corners.

still havent decided if forty-five bucks is worth it for an aluminum front shock tower. it is my most frequently broken part.

AznJunkie

01-21-2003, 09:03 PM

No offence taken spreckenzy. It’s not to cold here in good old Florida. It’s usually nice and hot here. I’m surprise how long my evader held up. I only broke a total of 5 parts. All damages were from bad landing (there were a lot of them). There’s not that many grass area at my apartment complex where I can get a nice speed run.

Thanks for the tip you guys. I notice that I have to hammer the throttle while jumping. If I don’t it will nose dive like in the pic.

spreckenzy

01-21-2003, 09:19 PM

i have broken eleven parts in about one month

orbitron

01-21-2003, 10:04 PM

You stinking Americans.:mad:. It is currently -25C (-13F) in Canada and if I took out my truck today it would shatter when I put it on the ground. I only wish I could be in Florida driving my truck today or maybe doing some wakeboarding as well.

AznJunkie

01-21-2003, 11:02 PM

spreckenzy - Wow that's a lot. I broke all 5 parts within this month. i got it at the end of last month. The ramp I'm using is a flexable wood about 16" high, 2' wide and about 4' long.

orbitron - sucks for you. Here it's like high 60sF and low 70s F

k_sw31

01-21-2003, 11:29 PM

Hehe, us stinking americans :p

Right now, its been cloudy and 40 degrees all day, half of the time raining :mad: I'd rather have a bunch of snow on the ground :D

Nemo

01-22-2003, 12:30 AM

yeah here in MN tommorow the high is 0 F and a windchill of -35 but i live in minneapolis its colder up north.

evaderbxbob

01-22-2003, 02:56 AM

i would apreciate some help my bx is only a few weeks old maybe twenty packs old , i had a problem with the connection to motor so i hard wired it to get better connection and that worked,well during the process i also replaced the brushes. it seemed to work ok. but it just dont seem like it was the first week i had it. today my friend (brand new to r/c) got an evader st, we were running around and he seemed faster so with a fresh pack we drag raced he beat me pretty good, well... he beat me. i was under the impression that the buggy was faster, NOT! but i was wondering if it was the gearing the bx has a 23t pinion and a 81t spur VS st with 20t & a 88t. is there anything i can do to pick up some speed to keep up with him? but keep it under $100 , lol ! any reply would be helpful. thanks "GO EVADERS"

Prinler

01-22-2003, 03:07 AM

First off..... im guessing you have a stock BX.. they come with the photon motor. I have to give it to duratrax for trying..... it isnt bad... but then again it isnt good. most people replace ASAP. For the Esc you have get something like a Trinity Chameleon Pro Dyno Tuned Modified.... its 19 turns... just over the limit but it will roast his photon. I personally love the speed. I straped a low end brushless motor to my t3 ST and it busted the CVD. Breakage im proud of :) it has the power of prolly 3-4 brushed motors. 72k RPMS and more torque then i knew what to do with.... Speed is great when you can control it. The Bx on hard packed surfaces will out proform the ST... but when bashing the ST will have the advantage... better handling when hitting bumps, dirl clods ect. Aspect is the ESC. My Cyclone ESC puts out something like 420 amps of power maxx.. when the sprint puts out something like 120.... ( guesstamates, read it somewhere) Some say you dont need alot of amps but i see the difference when breaking and when you punch it. Very smooth acceleration. oh and it limitless :) just no reverse. i picked up mine on Ebay used for $40//// best $40 i ever spent :) If ya wanna chat it up look in my profile for my IM names or drop me an e-mail. i got lots of time saving ideas for ya...

Peace out
Stevep

spreckenzy

01-22-2003, 09:50 AM

evader bob
did you clean the motor with some motor cleaner, take a com stick to the commutator.

next after about five or six packs you should adjust the diff properly. watch the video that was included with your buggy. also retune your slipper clutch.

my truck slowed down after about a month i thought it was the motor so i bought a pk2 motor and it is fast again. but i think i will try to clean and rebrush the photon to see if it helps

evaderbxbob

01-22-2003, 12:39 PM

thanks for the tips guys. i am headed to the lhs to see what they got. i am impatient waiting for stuff i order on-line so i like to get what they got today,lol. if i get a 19t or a 17t motor what are the pros and cons, is it gonna wreck my car with the bigger motor , i suppose my run time will be shorter huh? how much more speed do you get with bigger batteries or do i just get longer run times. either would be great. i think i am gonna get some 3000's or 3300's, what is the best buy?

AznJunkie

01-22-2003, 01:18 PM

The speed difference is noticeable. It pretty fast with a 19T. Yes your run time will decrease if you go with a lower turn motor. General rule of thumb is that when you go with lower turn motors you will have more maintenance.

As for battery it will not give you power unless you have more cells. Match packs will give you more punch time than regular packs. A higher mah will give you longer run time. I highly suggest you go with 3000mah or 3300mah packs.

Promatch have a special on Sanyo 3300mah packs for $29.99. Get them while you can:
http://www.promatchracing.com/mthlyspc.html

Oh…. Your friend beat you because your motor is probably worn out already vs his, which is brand new. When I said yours is worn out, I mean your comm.

PITBULL

01-22-2003, 02:26 PM

you think a 19T is fast.. try a 17turn speed gems 2. i gaurantee that you cant control it in the dirt with the stock tires.. Even in the steet the thing will fish tale out of wack.. its powerfull.. i have stock tires still and in the dirt its uncontrolable, on the road it's fast, but you have to be good with the radio. i recomend this for every evader..

ZootMan

01-22-2003, 05:43 PM

Hey pitbull.....your the one using the 17 turn with the stock esc?How does it affect the stock esc?I had a 10x2 with a 8+ turn esc and i guess that the esc was cheap because it and my gears got roasted.But for the times it did well,it was a real powerhouse!

(i got the esc from a pawn shop:( )

ZootMan

01-22-2003, 05:47 PM

When do you get to post new threads?

jdm3849

01-22-2003, 05:49 PM

When I first got my Evader I upgraded to a MVP within the first 2 weeks. I used that for a while and had a craving for a little more speed, So I got the Sapphire. It was not a big increase in top speed but there was a big difference in torque. runtime was'nt decreased much either.

Right now I have a Speed Gem PRO 17 turn double Amber. That even has a big increase in power/speed over the Sapphire 17x1.
I would get that before a Sapphire because it has the D4 can and P-94 endbell for long lasting brushes and increased torque/power.
It is only a few dollars more but has many more features. It also worked fine with the sprint ESC and a 7-cell in my FT T3. It was geared approx. 17/88.

Another awesome motor is the Chameleon Pro 2. It is as fast as a mod (it is a mod) but yet has stock motor maitnence.

Nemo, I live in MPLS, MN too. Ya it's really cold out but I have still been driving my T3. (don't drive Vader any more cause it breaks too damn much). I actually Live in Robbinsdale which is a suburb of MPLS and go to Armstrong. (same age as you)
Send me an IM one of these days.;) hehe

ZootMan

01-22-2003, 06:15 PM

Ya....ive been running a chameleon 2 pro now that my 8+ turn esc is gone and it is a big difference compared to the photon speed.Im waiting to get a saudering gun to put my motor connector back on so i have not run it for about three weeks+.
I run my car at the minreg rc club in clearwater florida.You might know this place because losi has been there a few times.And losi is back there in april.It is in the 60 to 70 degrees here now but the temp drops to about 30 in the morning.(We get this often in florida):cool:

http://minnreg.com/rcclub/losi/losirace.htm

PITBULL

01-22-2003, 08:34 PM

ZOOTMAN
I'm using the stock esc.. and everything works great.. doesnt even get hot.. just a little warm after 3, 7 minute packs in a row.. generates about the same heat as the stock 20 turn

bohemus

01-22-2003, 11:41 PM

I run a 15 turn double sp gem 2 titanite, and 8t duratrax reversible speed control. This controller works great for me, and does not even warm up after 3 packs! I am hitting about 30-32mph with fresh comm, and new brushes. I am using a 19 tooth pinion. I also blew the shock seal out on the front right.....guess i'll make another order to tower*:D

PITBULL

01-23-2003, 11:12 AM

hey BOHEMUS
my esc got warm with even the stock 20 turn motor after running my car for over 20 minutes straight.. when i say warm, i only mean warm. Warm to me means that there is a SLIGHT increase in temp. (you know how sometimes when you charge your batts they maybe cold, then when they're done charging you can tell they've warmed up just a little bit.. well, that's as warm as my esc gets. that's all there is.. if your esc doesn't even get warm after running three packs(over 20 minutes), that's unheard of(at least to me).. Electronics heat up, it's an enemy, but it's a resiprocity as well, it has to, and will definately happen. thankfully i didn't have to spend any extra money a new esc because with my stock esc and my 17 turn mod speed gems 2 motor, with a 22 tooth pinion.. my evaderclock at 33mph... a cop was rolling down my block the other day and i asked him to clock it for me, and he did. i had to let him play with it for payment. I got that speed with the stock tires, which are near slicks in the back.. With some gripping tires, i'm sure i can get 35mph out of my ride.. but anyway, is anyone going to get that nitro evader st. i am..

bohemus

01-23-2003, 11:39 AM

Good point pitbull, I did fail to mention that I was running the evader in the snow! Had it been indoors, I do believe the esc would have heated up. As for speed, I don't have a radar gun so I am just estimating the speed through distance and time but good point on the heat issue!:)

bohemus

01-23-2003, 11:40 AM

Well, not IN the snow but on the road........point is it was cold out!

ZootMan

01-23-2003, 02:38 PM

Ya...i know my speed comntrol got a little warm after one run,but that is here in florida.

I am not sure if i am going to invest my money into a gp evader st or not.Though it does look pretty imressive and the .18 would be sweet.(because it is made by o.s.!)

PITBULL

01-23-2003, 03:53 PM

Bohemus.. yeah, the cool air probley helped it stay cool.. BECAREFULL with your evader in the snow.. those parts will get brittle..

zootman.. i want that nitro evader.. i don't have a nitro car at all, and i want the evader nitro st to be my first. hopefully i'll have the money when it comes out.. ..... .. i can just count on my tax returns..

ZootMan

01-23-2003, 04:02 PM

The gp evader st is coming out in late feb. and it would be a great car for racing.The price is really for what you get.The pice is 259.99 and that is a great price for a rtr race truck.

What im waiting for is for duratrax to come out with a gas conversin kit for the EP evader st.Now that would be sweet.

grewst

01-23-2003, 06:28 PM

Hey, the CNC man has his front and rear alum. shock towers on ebay right now. $35

just thought someone might like to know

ZootMan

01-23-2003, 06:33 PM

Are those for the evader?
That would be pretty sweet to have.
Can you put a hyperlink so we dont have to find it please?

AznJunkie

01-23-2003, 06:55 PM

Yup it's for the evader.

Here's the item number for ebay. 3110159944 and 3110160043.

I got a servo brace from him and it's holding really good. No more broken servo brace. :D

spreckenzy

01-23-2003, 07:49 PM

thanks for the heads up on the al. shock towers just picked up a pair for forty dollars shipped. i am excited. thanks again.

just got my rpm starz and losi smasher tires on the evader....it looks pretty sharp now.

TeamMishap

01-23-2003, 08:34 PM

Where were the TI kingpins found? Must be for Losi, eh? Were they a direct fit?

Anyone have a better antenna tube than the noodle that comes with the Evader? Know of any antenna mounts that work with our truck?

Thanks

k_sw31

01-23-2003, 08:53 PM

Get an associated antenna tube, really nice and flexible, haven't broken a single on :D

The antennas slide through them really easy too, so the antennas dont rip off easily :D

orbitron

01-23-2003, 09:00 PM

Just got my Jep-RC braces today. Now I am invincible!

spreckenzy

01-23-2003, 09:07 PM

those jep-rc braces baffle me. the front hinge plate i understand, but the one that goes behind the bulkhead doesnt seem (to me) to do anything. same for the rear brace. i think it is supposed to keep the suspension arms from ripping off. But how?

AznJunkie

01-23-2003, 09:09 PM

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Where were the TI kingpins found? Must be for Losi, eh? Were they a direct fit?
Thanks

Towerhobbies have the Evader Ti kingpins for $14.49.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTA6&P=7

I got it and it's great. No more bent kingpins.

TeamMishap

01-23-2003, 10:06 PM

Thanks for the help. I couldn't get 'em to pop up on Tower without having the direct link. Gave me every Evader piece of TI but the kingpins.

Here's my newest battery label. Someone beat me to submitting the idea to RCCA. B'tards.

k_sw31

01-23-2003, 10:08 PM

I like the 'mismatched' cells, represents a lot :D

bohemus

01-23-2003, 10:24 PM

Finished a rebuild the other day and took apart the tranny all the way down to cleaning the thrust bearings. Added neon yellow ball cups and foam tires. After 5 minutes down at the track during practice I hit the wall on the back straight and POW, goodbye servo gears! Took apart the servo and found that every gear was damaged. One gear was missing 1/2 of all the teeth. I bought a futaba servo and replaced the whole thing....bummer what a wast of practice time!

Found the green spongies at the LHS. They are pre-mounted associated eliminators. Seem to fit just fine, no rubbing at this point........very fast!

I am going to add grooves to the tires with an exacto, anyone have any recommendations on the number of grooves to cut, the depth or the spacing. I race packed clay**:confused:

bohemus

01-23-2003, 10:29 PM

This is a picture of the rebuild!

spreckenzy

01-23-2003, 10:48 PM

ya i busted the gears in my servo too. replaced the gears with futaba gears from my lhs $5.95. Busted them again but replaced the servo with a hobbico cs-70 metal geared servo. then i broke the servo horn. now i am back to the stock servo till i get the hobbico up and running.

orbitron

01-24-2003, 12:17 AM

Sprekenzy - The braces, I believe, are supposed to prevent the arms from tearing out the mounts on the bulkheads, front and rear, due to collisions. This in turn puts more pressure on the arms (which should bend from the added pressure), and prevents the need to replace the bulkhead 58 times a week. Personally, I bought the front end replacement because I couldn't keep hinge pin braces on my truck and the bumper is pure genius. I just figured for a couple bucks more why not buy the whole set as insurance. Plus, rumour has it this will nearly eliminate front end breakage, barring the shock tower and the body mount.

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:15 AM

bohemus- Get rid of that crappy servo! I stripped countless servos, until I got smart enough to go buy a Hitec HS5625 MG servo. It has all metal gears as well as ballbearings, plenty of torque and good speed too!

I have no clue on how you should adjust your truck, I race on carpet with foams on my T3 but that is way different.

This might be a dumb question, but does anyone use traction compound on their foams at your oval track? Go ask around, look at other peoples trucks, meet some people to help you out. At first I had no clue how I was going to setup my T3 but then I got some advice from some experienced guys, and it looks like I have the most dialed in vehicle out there now!

Matt (aka R/C)

01-24-2003, 10:45 AM

Can the Futaba S3003 gears fit in the sx-100 servo included with the evader?

THANKS, MATT

pudder

01-24-2003, 11:06 AM

They are the same servos. Duratrax just puts their label on it. Hence the "duratrax" radio made by Futaba.

grewst

01-24-2003, 02:11 PM

To bad those aluminum shock towers weren't blue, purple just doesn't fit my color scheme.

Pudder, thanks for the tip on the servo gears.
I stripped mine a long time ago and replaced it with a Hitech mg bb servo, with an aluminum servo horn. no problems since.
But, I need an extra servo for a project and buying new gears is less expensive then a whole new servo :)

I have no clue about foams on clay, but Losi's taper pins hook up real nice on my local track(which is hard packed clay) but they wear fast.

I don't know how well jep's braces work yet, I just helped my son add them to his truck, as soon as it stops raining we will find out.

I do know that since I added the front alum. bulkhead and TI hinge pins I have not broken anything on the front of the truck, and I drive the evader like I stole it:D

bohemus

01-24-2003, 04:14 PM

Thanks pudder, I think the next servo gear I strip I will get a new hitec metal gear. Thanks for the advice!......
How do you think that hitech would perform with an intellispeed 8t esc with a BEC 5volts/1amp? Would that provide enough power? Do the metal gear servos require more juice?:confused:

pudder

01-24-2003, 04:21 PM

The ESC and reciever don't really effect the performance of a servo... They do take a bit more power I think, but I don't notice any difference in runtime. I run with 3300's at racing so I don't have a problem with dumping during a race.

bohemus

01-24-2003, 04:21 PM

Is the hitec a direct replacement for the futaba? It says on tower it works for futaba-J type radio systems.....what does that mean?

pudder

01-24-2003, 04:41 PM

We're talking about servos still right? I think all that means is the connectors. I think a JR or Hitec plug will fit into a futaba reciever, if not you can modify them easily too.

bohemus

01-24-2003, 07:48 PM

Actually I was referring to the size of the servo case itself. I did not know if it would interfere/ or crowd the servosaver/steering bellcrank system*

AznJunkie

01-24-2003, 08:36 PM

The hitec servo (HS-625MG and HS-645MG) is about the same size as the duratrax one. So it should fit without any problems.

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:16 PM

It will fit no problem. I found it to be the same size and my JR and Futaba standards.

Check out www.hitecrcd.com for more.

spreckenzy

01-24-2003, 09:23 PM

did any body have to do some modifications to the servo horn to make your new servos work? because the stock servo horn is extended.

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:29 PM

Good thing pointed out there, but no, I could use a regualr servo horn on my Evader or T3 whick both regularly use "extended" servo horns. On my Hitec I had to enlarge the hole for the ballstud to fit, and then put a nut on the other side and loctited' it. I have raced for a while with the regular servo horn and it works fine.

spreckenzy

01-24-2003, 09:35 PM

i have a hobbico command cs-70 metal geared super torque 2bb servo. it came with the widest servo horn. i had to shave it down with a x-acto knife. can i get an aluminum servo horn to fit? if so what kind(brand)?

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:42 PM

Futaba.

spreckenzy

01-24-2003, 09:45 PM

a futaba horn doesnt fit the ridges of the nipple tight and slips. my lhs is looking around for me. they said that hitech horns will fit?

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:49 PM

Nipple? Last time I checked servos don't have nipples...

Hitec, possibly. Futaba is the biggest, JR second and Hitec 3'rd, that is for the amount of spline things on the servo gear for horn. I thought Futaba and Hobbico were basically the same thing. I highly doubt that hitec is the match since Futaba and Hobbico are both very similar, and distributed on its own. You can see though...

bohemus

01-24-2003, 09:50 PM

Thanks everyone for all the great information on the servos! I am definately going to get a different servo next time!

Does anyone know if the carbide diff balls/ or thrust balls are worth the money?

Also, I read somewhere that you should glue your diff rings to the diff halves so they don't slip against the back of the diff, and the balls ride smoothly on them ( after scuffing the riding surface). I bought my truck used.....does anyone know if the evader diff rings were initially glued? I can't really tell**

pudder

01-24-2003, 09:52 PM

They aren't glued. I wouldnt bother gluing them. When your diff rings wear out, they will be a real bitch to get them off. Just put some grease on both sides of them. I wouldn't worry about the carbide balls unless you were racing, all they do is last longer, and might be a bit smoother.

bohemus

01-24-2003, 10:22 PM

This is where is found the information on glueing diffs.......about 2/3 of the way down the page* (Balak Racing)Balak Racing (http://www.balakracing.com/diffmaintenance.htm) ..............I knew I read that somewhere!:p

bohemus

01-24-2003, 10:24 PM

I know its not an evader diff but it is pretty good for general reference!

pudder

01-25-2003, 12:03 PM

Like I said before, I wouldn't bother about gluing the diff rings. When you try to take them off, it might be hard to get them off, plus the glue that will stick to the outdrive will unbalance the next rings you put on there unless you get it all off. I wouldn't do it, I don't know anyone who does either.

ZootMan

01-25-2003, 03:11 PM

Hey guys.I just got my motor wires mounted on my motor again and made them shorter because shorter wires lose less voltage to resistance.:)

Glue is not really made for a gearbox,diff-rings or whatever you try to fix with it on an rc car.Knowing that one bump can break the part you glued even more.(it has happened to me many times)

Does anyone know if it is best to sauder the esc wires to the motor or just use bullet connectors?

bohemus

01-25-2003, 05:26 PM

Thanks pudder, I won't glue the diffs. Seems like you have quite alot of experience around here judjing by the number of posts that you have so your opinion is quite valuable.....thanks again.

bohemus

01-25-2003, 05:31 PM

Thanks pudder, I won't glue the diffs......guess I never heard of either before reading it on Balak's website!

bohemus

01-25-2003, 05:32 PM

sorry for the double post

ZootMan

01-25-2003, 06:11 PM

I am planning to make a project car out of the evader.I will make it a sprint car with a sprint body and onroad tires.I have already started on a roll-cage for the chasis and i will post pics as soon as i get an internet or digital camera.I will also get f/r swaybars and some red colored parts to match the body.

(although i got this idea from a guy who has a t-maxx at my local track,he does not have a roll-bar)

grewst

01-26-2003, 01:29 AM

Gluing the diff washers???? now that just sounds like a really bad idea to me. JMHO

Nemo

01-26-2003, 02:05 AM

evader sway bars suck I got them both and the plastic parts that hold on the bar break very fast see if some losi ones will fit

ZootMan

01-26-2003, 03:10 PM

I was just going to buy the swaybars,thanks for the heads up.

Although this is an evader thread , there is only one thing on my mind now...........GO RAIDERS!!!!!

Matt (aka R/C)

01-26-2003, 09:17 PM

Except they are getting their as$es kicked! O well, thats life....

Matt

Se_12alty

01-26-2003, 11:40 PM

lol whatever! :p kicked or owned!!!!!!!!!!!! hahahah GO BUckS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SUPER BOWL CHAPMS. :D :D :D :D :D

kitty

01-27-2003, 01:18 AM

pudder - now that we know your cat's name is pudder, what are we to call you? It's just kinda odd to be calling you by your cat's name now, especially with all the talk about "sack licking." hehehe (he's a cute lil' furball, though)

AznJunkie - you can take out the battery foam spacer thingy, cut about 1/3 off and move that part up front. It'll give just a little more weight towards the rear and definitely helps to avoid nose dives.

Mishap - if you have a LHS, pick up a generic 3' section of antenna tube. I've been using those for a while now and they don't break very easily. We only wear them out doing lid slides on pavement and even then they're pretty tough. They're pretty cheap, too. Just ask someone who works there. They are a "clear" translucent and can be dyed.

ZootMan - I use Dean's plugs on all my motors and ESCs. Bullet connectors are trash. Hard wiring (direct soldering) is good, but I have a penchant for switching motors out for different occasions, which is why I use the Dean's. Power Poles (Duratrax) also are good, but they can be kinda bulky for ESC-to-motor connections. I'm using Power Poles for battery connections because they're cheaper and the difference in amperage gain is very close to that of Dean's when used over the standard Tamiya-type connectors.

bohemus - it definitely is a good idea to take to heart anything that pudder recommends when it comes to RC stuff. He was one who really helped me get my start last September when I first got into RC.

AznJunkie

01-27-2003, 12:50 PM

Ok I just order Jep combo pack. Now my evader should be able to take more abuse. :D

Thanks for the advice kitty. I will try it and see if it will help me. I notice I have to set my evader at a lower ride height to launch and land nicely. By doing that my evader bottoms out really hard. Oh well, what can you do!

Nemo

01-27-2003, 06:41 PM

Hey Ive heard people talk about it and I think Ive asked it once but what is the new tranny, or stronger tranny? I bought mine on tower in september, would that be the new one? Or is there any way I could upgrade so I could run maybe 7 cells with a 13Tdouble p94 or a 14T speed gems?

ZootMan

01-27-2003, 07:56 PM

Have you guys seen the aluminum shock towers on e-bay.they look soo sweet.They are'nt too expensive either.

chad2261

01-27-2003, 08:02 PM

OK, I've already rebuilt my differential once and it worked fine for a while. Since then I've added a new ESC and a slightly hotter than stock P-94 12 turn triple. Now I have to tighten my differential every few minutes, basically to the point of locking it. Am I just overpowering the differential? And if so, what could I do to keep it set tight enough to not slip? I was thinking of using threadlock on the differential screw but I'm not sure if this would fix it or not. Let me know what you think...

---
Chad

AznJunkie

01-27-2003, 08:24 PM

My jumps are getting much better. I took out the foam pad in the rear so I can put the battery all the way in the back. Then I put the foam back in the front. This put more weight in the rear, but this help me with my nose dive problem. I also lower my ride height, which helps with the launching from the ramp.

So if you guys are having problem with nose diving this might help you.

spreckenzy

01-27-2003, 08:36 PM

stay on the throttle in the air to avoid nosediving.

zootman, yes i have seen the al. shock towers on ebay. I oredered some last week. the front shock tower is my most frequently broken part so i picked the set up for forty dollars shipped. they should hold up nicely!!!!!!!

AznJunkie

01-27-2003, 10:55 PM

Staying on the throttle in the air doesn’t always work for me. At low speed it works great. At high speed jumps I still nose dive hard. So hard I would do flips after landing. Putting the battery further back helped with the nose dive. I can hit the jump at a bad angles and still land without crashing. Even at full speed I can still land without crashing.

grewst

01-28-2003, 01:49 AM

azn- your nosediving could be caused by to much compession of your rear shocks on the face of the jump(that was my problem for awhile, the stock oil is thin 20 wt. I believe) you could try heavier shock oil or a firmer spring. It could help

AznJunkie

01-28-2003, 02:00 AM

Using 35wt right now. Didn't really help when i change it. When I change the ride height and move the battery further back the problem went away.

Ran two batterys without any major nose diving. I can even hit speed bumps without nose diving now. :D

PITBULL

01-28-2003, 02:43 PM

i was looking at tower hobbies website today and noticed that the availiable date for the nitro evader st has been pushed back from late feb, to late march.. i was looking foward to getting that thing.. i want a nitro ride bad.. so it looks like i'll have to go with the xxx nt or the gt plus.. anyway, i just thought i was share.

ZootMan

01-28-2003, 04:25 PM

the evader gp is similar to the gt plus anyhow.even if your not ging to race gas the evader gp has a .18 made by o.s.
(so you know that thing can fly!)

PITBULL

01-28-2003, 07:17 PM

Yeah your right.. that .18 is going to be fast.. but i heard that theh o.s. that duratrax is putting in the evader isn't all that anyway, and the gt plus can blow it away with its .15.. That's just hearsay, so i'm not sure about that.. i still wanted that nitrol evader st, but it looks like it'll be a while be before launching..

spreckenzy

01-28-2003, 08:40 PM

if i were to get into nitro trucks i dont think i would get an evader. These evaders at electric speeds are just to fragile. Think about the speeds achieved by a nitro. All the plastic on the evader would be thrashed. my only ride is the evader but i would not get a nitro evader, i would get a triple xnt or a rc10 gt. just my two cents.

TeamMishap

01-29-2003, 12:19 PM

Where in the heck do you get the big chunk of sticky foam to secure the receiver on the chassis? The chassis they sent me is too narrow to fit the receiver in without the big foam to elevate it above the lips.

ZootMan

01-29-2003, 03:06 PM

Velcro is what holds my reciever and esc onto my chasis.It hods firm and if you need to take it off you dont have to get new "sticky foam".(this also means that you wont have to glue anything to the chasis).Remember to clean the spot you want to put the velcro on with soap and scrape it with steel wool to make sure it will stick firmly.

The evader gp would probably be a little fragile so mabee you should go for the rc10 or a xxxnt sport (i hear those things fly).

I think that duratrax should come out with a graphite component set for the evader because im sick of buying unreliable parts that break by just tapping something.

Oh......I wanted to tell you that you can add personality or cleanness to your car by easily putting baloons over your shock springs.This can be done by getting an empty shampoo bottle and putting your shock spring in it , then put the baloon's mouth over the opening of the bottle , then hold one hand around the neck of the bottle and sqeeze the bottle with the other hand and let the shock spring dive into the ballon.Walla!! you have a cool looking shock cover.

Matt (aka R/C)

01-29-2003, 05:57 PM

This is how brittle an evader part is, i was putting my new front brace on, and guess what?? When i was pputting the shocks back on the shock tower, the stupid the snapped. I mean where the top of the shock is, i was screwing it on hand tight and it snapped in 2, wth?

ZootMan

01-29-2003, 07:38 PM

The only part i have ever broken was the retarded servo arm.i fixed this problem by just using a futaba arm.Using this arm seemed to decrease the steering a little.

grewst

01-30-2003, 03:04 AM

When I mounted my reciever.
I went to the hardware store and bought double sided foam mounting tape its about an 1/8 of an inch so I stacked it 3 times and topped it with velcro.

IMO-- If they didn't really beef up the nitro evader, not there current cheap A$$ plastic $hit I wouldn't give it another look.

TO ANYBODY CORPARATE:

WHERE'S MY GRAPHITE AND CVD'S ALREADY? WOULD YOU PLEASE DO SOMETHING ABOUT THE TRANNY?

ronbeck

01-30-2003, 10:17 AM

the nitro comes with steel cvd's?!. maybe they will fit? might be nice if they did.

1. anyone used the xx-t lunsford ti turnbuckles yet?

2. do the rpm longer ball cups work well on the evst?

3. thanks for the help!

peter:D

Matt (aka R/C)

01-30-2003, 04:11 PM

Hey, do you guys know if the Futaba S3003 gears will fit the sx-100 in hte evader, i bought em by accident???

Matt

jdm3849

01-30-2003, 04:27 PM

Yes, those gears will fit. They are the exact same servo's internally, just with different sticker and or case.

If you want your reciever to fit on the chassis without a big hunk of foam, I would suggest getting out your dremel and taking some of the plastic off the "lip" of the battery tray. I have done this to 2 chassis and it never affected them in strength, that may add a tiny bit of flex but not enough to notice. I sent in a chassis that had been broken where it mounted to the rear a-arm plate and they still replaced it.

ZootMan

01-30-2003, 04:42 PM

Do all futaba gears (metal too) fit futaba servos?

kabe586

01-30-2003, 06:12 PM

I am having a problem with my evader i think.. but i might be nuts. When i try to use the brake on my evader it seems to make a noise and goes in to reverse instead of brake mode. Is there something i have to set to make it brake first or is this normal of braking. This is my first real R/C car so i really don't know what it should sound like.

Thanks!
Matt

ZootMan

01-30-2003, 06:22 PM

The evaders esc is only built for forward/reverse operation.The only means to slow down is really just letting off the therottle.The wierd noise you are hearing is just the transition from forward to reverse , and is the esc's way to engage into reverse "softly" so nothing in the gearbox gets fried up.

ZootMan

01-30-2003, 06:31 PM

Sorry for the double post.

I dont know how many people are aware of the hopups duratrax carries for the evader so i have supplied this hyperlink so you can check it out for yourself.you can also look en e-bay occasionally for a few aftermarket products.

http://duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6182.html

PITBULL

01-30-2003, 06:52 PM

that stuff is so expensive.. example.. they had a set of fron hubs that someone ordered at my lhs from duratrax, well, i guess he/she didn't pick them up in time, so they put them out on the floor for sale.. those duratrax aluminum anodized(blue) front hubs were 34.99. for some D@mn hubbs.. that's too much for me.. $10, maybe,, but $35.. that's crazy.. I ask if they were marked up......."NO".. that's how much they actually paid for them.

you'll notice that you cant find the prices to any of those parts on duratrax's website.. maybe because they know they are very highly priced for what you're getting.. anyway, a must have is a alum combo set from jep r/c.. total including shipping 15.24. for more info check out his web site..

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

ZootMan

01-30-2003, 07:24 PM

ya i know that some of them are expensive but most of the aluminum components from towerhobbies.com are like $20 that i saw in an older catalog.I have not found them in the site yet though.

I think ill get that alluminum bumper.that would be sweet.

pudder

01-30-2003, 07:37 PM

I know how nice aluminum bumpers are and all, but there is a huge disadvantage to them which makes me not have one.

They bend easily. I can imagine Jep's would as well. It has big kickup, and you hit something, that will be bent. No offence to Jep, his other products look awsome, as well as the bumper, but even a small bumper with small kickup will bend easily. Jeps bumper is pretty thin by the looks of it too, maybe 2 or so mm thick.

If I were you, I would just get the RPM bumper for the XXT.

kabe586

01-30-2003, 07:56 PM

Thank zootman, i guess i'll just let it coast and turn it or something to slow it down. Another thing i was wondering about was the gear ratio, i am right now running the normal photon 20t motor. i am thinking about getting a p2k2. Should i change the gear ratio if i get a p2k2, or for that matter could i just get a little more speed without hurting the motor on my photon by changing gear ratios?

-Matt

spreckenzy

01-30-2003, 08:04 PM

i have two evaders. one is completely stock and the other is hopped up. It has a p2k. with 22 tooth pinion it is at least as fast as the 100% stock evader. tested in a drag race on asphalt.

ZootMan

01-30-2003, 08:37 PM

if you are getting a new motor you should get a chameleon 2 pro becaus the photon speed is faster then a p2k.

kabe586

01-30-2003, 08:43 PM

The aritcles i have read said a p2k2 was slightly faster than a photon, even though it was more turns, i could be wrong though. The other thing is i really wanted to go with a cooler running and less maintance motor. I really just use the truck in my hard or on the street. I may eventually do stock class racing if i get good enough driving it.

spreckenzy

01-30-2003, 08:44 PM

the pk2 is at least as fast as the photon. I used a 22t pinion with the pk2. this was tested in a drag race. but i might try the camelean(sp) i want to go as fast as i can.

i just installed the al. shock tower front i got off of ebay. It reduces alot of flex in the shock area. i cant wait to test it out.

orbitron

01-30-2003, 08:50 PM

Just got new rims and tires. :D RPM Talonz and ProLine RoadRage all the way around. I had to slice up the rims (XXX-T up front)though in order to clear the hub carriers. On the rear I used the converter kit included with the rims (designed for Traxxas trucks) but after I put in the converters it was a perfect fit. Overall it looks quite slick. If only I could find just the right body...

AznJunkie

01-30-2003, 11:08 PM

I’m using two motors right now. My photon just crap on me. I’m using a trinity chameleon pro and a reedy mvp stocker. I’m using a 21t pinion for both motors. The mvp is just as fast as the chameleon pro in top end. Low end the chameleon pro wins. The chameleon pro has more low torque than the mvp

As for rim/wheels. My friend has a T3. I took his rim and put it on my evader and it fits perfectly. The front doesn’t hit the steering arms. The rear fits on perfectly as well. So I guess you can use either AE or Losi rims. Just make sure it will fit 3/16” axles and you’re ok.

I’m going to get these rims next. In the words of pudder it’s “sexy”.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC2&P=7

My body will be the Team Losi body.

k_sw31

01-31-2003, 12:43 AM

Not only sexy but fast also! :D

TeamMishap

01-31-2003, 01:46 AM

Just ordered an EMaxx tonight and an Integy 16x7 charger. I sent that POS MRC SuperBrain back.

I hope it is as kid proof as the Evader. I've got pics of the twins STANDING on the Evader, and one sitting on it while the other "drives" it with remote (all electric turned off of course).

Anyone want an Evader as seen in Xtreme RCs racers rides?

JUST KIDDING

ronbeck

01-31-2003, 02:27 AM

when serching tower put in "evst"
i have the jep rc kit peices and they are sweet.
make the truck feel soo nice and the rear a-arm
brace take some flex out since it fill the gap
below the trans mount. had one major hit on the
front bumper no bending yet.

:D peter

ronbeck

01-31-2003, 02:33 AM

i have that charger way sweet. one of the few i found that could do my micro batts, and mataine my sticks for the evader/rustler/mini cooper. tip the instructions are a little vague(sp??).

i also am thinking of going darkside. wanted a emaxx, but after last run with the trucks i have decided for true fun need nitro.
want the t-maxx but might settle for a hpi MT. just been checking e-bay, nothing catch my eye(well not one that my wife wouldn't notice:D )

you keeping youe evader?
peter:)

TeamMishap

01-31-2003, 09:29 AM

Gonna keep the Evader. Be something to tool with. I just hopped it up with aluminum front/rear hubs, front bulkhead, pin braces, and a Super Rooster. Painted the shock towers and some other stuff blue. Plus it's just about all new after my last crash.

No law against having two trucks is there?

pudder

01-31-2003, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by spreckenzy
the pk2 is at least as fast as the photon. I used a 22t pinion with the pk2. this was tested in a drag race. but i might try the camelean(sp) i want to go as fast as i can.

i just installed the al. shock tower front i got off of ebay. It reduces alot of flex in the shock area. i cant wait to test it out.

I have had all 3 motors. The p2k 2 and p2k kick the crap outta the photon when you are on a tight course like indoor carpet track. I bought a Chameleon 2 Pro the other day, and that thing kicks the crap outta the P2k 2 Pro. It is really fast, so I threw it in my pancar and will have to try it on the track sunday.

jep_rc

01-31-2003, 11:41 AM

Hey everybody, Jep here.

I have been away from the board for a very long time. I NEED SOME HELP! Rumor has it that new Evaders (less than 2 mos old) have a modified front bulkhead with added bracing, or more "meat" to the plastic. I *desperately* need a picture or drawing that shows me specifically what has changed. I am told my brace piece does not fit the new bulkhead well, and I want to modify it appropriately. My LHS doesn't have one, and all the pics on Tower and Duratrax are old.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated, and rewarded with your choice of a free Jep-R/C aluminum hop-up part. Thanks!

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

ZootMan

01-31-2003, 02:48 PM

Jep-

I know the part has been modified but i think that if you e-mail duratrax you could get a pic that way.

I need a favor.....if you are able to help me i need you to e-mail me the hopup parts you make for the evader.This would mean lots to me.Or just send a hyperlink to me.

My e-mail: XxtheonexX25@aol.com

To everyone else-

I run a chameleon 2 pro with exellent results despite the manufacturers suggested 20+ turn limit.

jep_rc

01-31-2003, 02:58 PM

Originally posted by ZootMan
I need a favor.....if you are able to help me i need you to e-mail me the hopup parts you make for the evader.This would mean lots to me.Or just send a hyperlink to me.

ZootMan - there is a link below my signature in my post above. Just go to the products page. In case it didn't show, here is the URL....

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

Jep

bohemus

01-31-2003, 05:11 PM

Does anyone know the correct length of antenna wire to use for the evader's receiver? My wire ripped in half last week in a wreck and I lost the second half so I can't very well measure it! Is this the correct antenna wire?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH355&P=7

Also, does anyone know a good link, or instructions on the best way to solder receiver wire? I have a weller 40 watt solder iron* with 60/40 rosin core solder*
:confused:

pudder

01-31-2003, 06:11 PM

ZootMan- Ya, the cham 2 works fine with the stock esc, but if you are running high power batts and using reverse and jamming into forward and so on, it does get a little warm. I am going to try my pancar out this weekend at the track. I am using the sprint ESC in it.

Bohemus- I don't know what length of wire it is but take it from a guy who has soldered antennas a lot... it is easy. You just take off the reciever case, unsolder the old antenna and put the new one on. Don't hold the gun on the board for a long time though or it could eventually damage it, thought i haven't had any damage using a 140 watt gun.

ZootMan

01-31-2003, 08:03 PM

I was kinda new to the whole saudering thing untill last week when i had to put my motor wires back on.The only tips i can give is to make sure the gun is at full heat and dont let the sauder touch any other wires or metal as this can make a short circuit.

Oh.......I finished making my own shock covers and it looks pretty sweet.I just wish i had an internet camera to show everyone.It is very easy to do.I have orange balloons in the front and white in the back.

Ya i know that the esc gets warm with the 19 turn but some guys race 17 turn speed gems on the stock esc.I think that the evader could run a mild mod motor without completely shattering to pieces.I have had very good luck with the car for the 1 1/2 years that i have had it , only breaking the servo arm and stripping the servo a couple of times.

kabe586

02-01-2003, 01:35 PM

Hi, some how i think i just created a big problem with my stock evader ST. I bought a comm cleaning stick and cleaned my photon 20t as it said in the manual, i am at about the 10 run point. I cleaned the brushes and the comm. After i put it back together i get this louder than normal noise when coasting. While in acceleration the noise does not seem that much different, although i just tried it inside, i have not opened it up outside just yet. Just when i let off the power and let it coast i heard a louder than normal noise either from the transmission or the motor. Is there something i possibly did wrong? What do you think the problem would be, and how to i correct it.

Thanks,
Matt

k_sw31

02-01-2003, 01:41 PM

well, it may just seem louder because it is inside :o

Either that or your gear mesh is set too tight ......

ZootMan

02-01-2003, 01:53 PM

I DONT KNOW FOR SURE BUT I THINK YOU MIGHT JUST HAVE AN INCORRECT GEAR MESH SETTING.

this "noise" you hear happens when your Spur gear is to tigtly locked to your pinion gear.You can lessen the severity of the noise (as i dont think there is a way to comletely get rid of the noise) by having a paper thin gap between the pinion gear and the spur gear.You can do this by just loosening the motor screws and moving the motor backwards and slip a piece of notebook paper between the gears.Push the motor forward again softly (making sure it is not too tight) just so the paper can be held between the gears. And tighten the motor screws again.

And if anyone knows how to completely get rid of the noise please tell me too!

pudder

02-01-2003, 02:13 PM

Internal gear wear also contributes to the noise too. If you ahve been running your evader hard, it will be louder than a brand new one. Also the gear mesh contributes much to the noise issue too. I am probably one of the quietest trucks at my track because I know how to properly care for and mesh my gears.

k_sw31

02-01-2003, 02:46 PM

Hehe, I've been running my pede for a looooooong time with out a gear cover, the spur is really chewed up :p really loud :p

pudder

02-01-2003, 03:32 PM

It would probably be in your best interest to get a new gear cover as well as spur...

k_sw31

02-01-2003, 03:41 PM

Yeah, I might run in there today, even my pinion is chewed up :p

ZootMan

02-01-2003, 05:07 PM

I had my motor screws come loose on me and raoasted my spur gear.The sad thing is that im too lazy to get a new one.

pudder

02-01-2003, 05:59 PM

And I'm too lazy to care. :p

k_sw31

02-01-2003, 08:24 PM

whoo boy once I get my BL controller (gonna be monday :D) I'll have such a quite car, just picked up a bunch of new spurs and pinions :D

ZootMan

02-01-2003, 08:35 PM

Cane someone please tell me who (besides JEP) makes and sells aftermarket hopups for the evader.who ever tells me gets a high five from me........maybe two if you ask.:rolleyes:

k_sw31

02-01-2003, 08:53 PM

Well, the only other company who perposly (I cant spell) makes hop ups is duratrax, they have a lot of aluminum goodies (there is also the CNC man), but I know some RPM parts fit (stuff for the xx-t) and some losi xx-t parts fit.
I think thats it ....

*high five*

tamiyajoe

02-01-2003, 10:05 PM

everyone is talkin about how "some" of the losi parts fit. which specific parts actually fit? what truck are they found on? (xxx-t?)

spreckenzy

02-01-2003, 10:08 PM

how much does it cost to upgrade to a brushless and will the evader hold up with the bl? i wonder how much faster it will be?

pudder

02-01-2003, 10:47 PM

spreckenzy, did you get that part I sent you yet?

I highly doubt the Evader would hold up to brushless.

Namvet

02-01-2003, 10:52 PM

If I should be posting the somewhere else, please let me know.

I bought my first electric today, Evader ST, didn't get time to run here outside but a little inside to get a feel of the handleing. Hope tomorrow to take to the backyard and see not what the truck can do, but what I am capable of doing

I am running 2400s and I will know more tomorrow if that is a good choice. Will get some street wheels (tires) next week.

I was trying to start new thread but could not figure out how to do this, if I need to do that next time someone tell me how and I will.

:D

pudder

02-01-2003, 10:55 PM

You can't post new topics in the vehicle forums because there were a bunch of people who kept doing that, when the vehicle forum itslef is like a bunch of little forums for vehicles in itself... get it? Good.

If you are somewhere like General Discussion or Electric Forum, ect. you can post a new topic by clicking on the "new thread" button that should be located at the top right hand and bottom right hand of the screen.

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 12:23 AM

spreckenzy- It will cost a good 250-400$ to get a good brushless setup up, and BTW, basically once you strap the BL on, your car will most likley evaporate into a pile of dust :p

orbitron

02-02-2003, 12:43 AM

I was thinking about getting a "dull" BL only because I wanted to increase the run time significantly but I'm happy with the speed of my truck (any faster and it would tear itself apart). But here are my thoughts. Time for an analogy....

5 years ago I bought a DVD player. At that time DVD's were new and fangled. It still works fine and all but I cannot play CD-R or DVD-R or VCD or anything like that. But here's the kicker.......... I paid over $650 CAD for it. Today I was in Wal-Mart and saw a DVD that could play any format available for $85. Do you see what I'm getting at?

BL is new and fangled. They can only get better and cheaper. Stick it out. 2 years down the road thay will be half the cost and they will be even more efficient. Plus they will have better options more suited for every truck. The only reason I see for buying a BL is if your trying to be as cool as that guy with the $3000 E-Maxx

This message has been brought to you by your friendly neighborhood Spiderman.

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 12:51 AM

Well, I wouldn't say BL stuff is 'newfangled', some/most systems have been out for 3-6 years, and have been used, just are undiscovered (some of them were originally designed for airplanes anyways). I do think they will get cheaper once sales pick up, and more are produced (hopefully in teh US too), but I dont think prices will drop that dramaticly, if you think of the effort that simply goes into manufacturing a lehner basic motor, I can see why they are 120$, but it is worth it anyways, all you need to do is replace the bearings every few years and thats it, it'll last you a LOT longer than any hot modified with similar performance. I do agree though, in a few years, BL will be as smooth as brushed motors, cheaper, and more used :D

But i'm havin fun wiht it right now :D

tamiyajoe

02-02-2003, 01:02 AM

can someone help me, wats BL? thnx alot

spreckenzy

02-02-2003, 01:04 AM

pudder ya i got that part last week but i havent had a chance to install it yet. thanks for sending it to me!

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 01:05 AM

BL=brushless. It is a type of electric motor that is much more effiecient and powerful than brushed motors that are most commonly used (not to mention much more $$)

tamiyajoe

02-02-2003, 01:08 AM

o thanks alot, i no waht a brushless motor is, i just didnt notice, again, thanks alot

tamiyajoe

02-02-2003, 04:02 AM

im gunna buy a nice blue evader after i sell my project (ta04-s). pudder, great story and nice cat. btw: the story w/ mike and his mom, VERY touching:). (hehe i like the part with the hobby shop). i was gunna buy the silver evader, but i dont like the purple flames. o well. ill post more once i get my truck.

tamiyajoe

02-02-2003, 05:00 AM

why does everyone go for the Hitec HS5625 MG servo?its 55$ while the Hitec HS-645MG is slightly slower but more torque @ 6 volts? and its 40$? is the HS5625 MG that much better?

AznJunkie

02-02-2003, 09:21 AM

For our st you don't need 106oz/in torque. The HS5625MG is faster and still have the torque to move you tires.

It's the same price as the HS5645MG.

$39.95 and free shipping: http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-625MG_Ultra_Speed/hs-625mg_ultra_speed.html

pudder

02-02-2003, 09:28 AM

I picked the HS5625 over the 5645 because the 5625 was faster, with still plenty of toruqe to steer my stampede easily. :)

Namvet

02-02-2003, 10:11 AM

pudder,

Thanks for the explantion on posting. And yes I get it.

I now know how this forum works, never to old to learn get it? Good

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 12:13 PM

On the servo issue, I dont really see why you need the 5625, 5645, or 645. The 625 is faster, cheaper, and still has plenty of torque and holding power :)

With much more torque you'll just wear your servo saver out faster :)

jep_rc

02-02-2003, 02:55 PM

Thanks to everyone who helped with the bulkhead question. I have what I need now.

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

ZootMan

02-02-2003, 05:21 PM

jep-

Hey, you have good bumpers and braces but when are you going to sell a chasis or other aluminum parts.you would make great buisness.

Everyone-

I was just at the track today (minnreg rc club) and i once again stripped the steering servo and it is the one thing that is turning into a long time liability.I also noticed that......dare i say it.......am getting bored of electrics and crave the power that only nitro can supply.Dont get me wrong , i will still race electric and gas as well.
I know that this is an evader thread but does anyone have a preference on a good gas stadium truck for under $300?

tamiyajoe

02-02-2003, 05:26 PM

wat about the HS-605BB Servo, its got the same amount of torque, but it is faster than the HS-625MG Servo yet it is $11 cheeper? here check it out
http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-605BB_High_Torque/hs-605bb_high_torque.html

Matt (aka R/C)

02-02-2003, 05:30 PM

ZootMan-

Look into the AE GT trucks, i think we've all heard good things about them.

Matt

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 06:26 PM

Zootman- The AE GT is a great truck, I've had one for awhile now, and its great. THe only thing is, I want to stay in electric, so I'm lookin to sell it.

Highlights-
FT GT
OS CV-X with new piston and sleeve, plus nice cooling head, just needs a little tuning
2 standard servos

I'm asking for around 200$

If your interested, shoot me an email @ k_sw31@hotmail.com

:D

ZootMan

02-02-2003, 06:31 PM

I think that the gt plus is about the only one they make now for under $300.Wouldnt it be also smart for me to save up an extra $20 and get a xxx-nt sport or drake adidtion?Or will the gt plus be good enough.At the races today there were more drivers with losi trucks than rc10s.Is that because they are better trucks or just because of the name?

k_sw31

02-02-2003, 08:08 PM

Zootman- I think you'll find the GT is a little more durable than the xxx-nt, and the trucks are equal, remember, its the driver, not the truck (1 vote for the GT). People probably drive losi's because that is what the pro drivers happen to have, or maybe your LHS doesn't have AE stuff...

TeamMishap

02-02-2003, 08:19 PM

What does it mean when your shocks don't fully rebound after compressed?

Means time for new shocks right? LOL. What other brands fit the Evader?

PITBULL

02-03-2003, 08:59 AM

as far as i know.. the only other brands that will fit are the xxx t.. most of the parts fit, even the body.. when it comes to the hubs, there's a differnece because xxx t uses different ball bearings.. if you were to buy that size ball bearings, you'd be okay... oh, the shock towers are a little different(the front one is for sure).. i have a friend who has a evader st and brock his front shock tower so and the lhs was out of duratrax brand, so he bought a losi(xxx t). it fit in place fine, but the top mounts(where the shocks connect) were too high and wide for the body... so,m there are two options that you can do, cut holes in your body for the shock tower to sit through, or, connect your shocks at the inside settings(wich would be the tallest setting) and clip off the outside.. you would be lossing tensil strengthis way... i recomend just stay with duratrax for the front shock tower.. sorry for all that detail..

PITBULL

02-03-2003, 08:59 AM

TeamMishap

02-03-2003, 11:53 AM

Turns out if you twist the shocks around so that the shock is against the shock tower instead of the spacer, it Fs up the geometry of it all and creates enough stiction to prevent full rebound of the shock. I discovered and corrected my mistake and it works fine now. DUH.

My LHS actually had Evader front a-arms! I about peed myself. They were mismarked to $15, but showed them the MSRP was only $5 and they sold them to me for that.

ZootMan

02-03-2003, 02:51 PM

thanx for your oppinions of the ae gts.i will look into them for my next purchase.

PITBULL

02-03-2003, 03:01 PM

do you guys take advantage of your warrenty?

I do... i've sent in three packages containing my broken parts and i recieve new parts with a week and a half. they send the parts in bundles(as you would buy them in the store). for instance, if you break a left rear hub, they wont just send you a left rear hub, they will send it in the package which includes a left and right rear hub.. same thing for suspension arms and everything else you would buy in a pack that includes two pieces.

once, I sent in my rear hub, and foregot to take out the two ball bearings and spacer that fit in the bub, well, duratrax sent me a new pack of ball bearings and spacers...

i think that duratrax does have a great system for their warrenty replacement parts.. it's great. it took me like a month and a half to send any broken products to them because i figured that i would recieve new parts for at least a month.. but i got the parts the next week.. so, if you were wondering how well the system of stress tech replacement is.... in my book, it's great!!

TeamMishap

02-03-2003, 09:10 PM

I've broke just about every piece of plastic on this truck and have NEVER had a problem with Duratrax replacing them.

The warranty can't be beat

JoeUSA 1

02-03-2003, 10:28 PM

does anyone know what metal diff gear fits in the case??

PITBULL

02-04-2003, 08:41 AM

i was told once that you couldn't change it, because it doesn't fint any other size diff gear.. but then once i was told you cold.. i'm sure you could, if you don't get any reponses here(especially from pudder), then check your lhs.. pudder be know'n everything bout these things.

pudder

02-04-2003, 09:07 AM

The online stress tech was great, type in your esc number and you get free parts!

I guess they took it down from people ripping them off, I sure know I did... they should have thought the idea through better first of all. :rolleyes:

Still, their warranty is best I have seen, but it would be nice if the trucks didn't break at all....

PITBULL

02-04-2003, 10:40 AM

yeah, i wish my truck never broke, but yeah right.. i want that nitro evader so bad, but i don't want to wait until late march and i don't want to have to worry bout breaking all the parks like i do now with my electric evader st. what would you recomend pudder, or anyone for an nitro ride.. rc10 gt plus rtr, xxx nt sport rtr or the nitro rustler 2.5.. im not into racing, but i want the best of the three for jumping, pure speed, strength, and dependability.. thanks for the help

AznJunkie

02-04-2003, 11:34 AM

Pittbull, I would get the GT. I had one before. Didn’t like nitro too much. It was very durable. I hit my real car tire at full speed and nothing broke. It jump nicely too, unlike my evader. :(

PITBULL

02-04-2003, 12:04 PM

yeah, my evader isn't the best jumper.. it has a 17 turn speed gems 2 moter, so it has the power, it's just not the best car in the world.. i like it though.. i like that gt plus.. i might take your advice

spreckenzy

02-04-2003, 10:10 PM

pitbull are you using the stock esc? i am thinking about getting the trinity amber 17 turn double. do you think the stock esc will handle it?

k_sw31

02-04-2003, 10:13 PM

PITBULL- Take a serious look at the Gt, its an awesome truck (no understatment) the only problem it has is breaking the rear bulkheads, but that is fairly hard to manage :) You can always pick up a RPM one for 10$, or a HG one for around 40 :D

pudder

02-04-2003, 11:06 PM

I missed out on a bunch here...

The stock ESC will handle a 17t motor. I have heard a lot about people using the stock ESCs with 17t's with success. My ESC gets quite warm running my Chameleon 2 pro in my pancar with 3300's though...

On the topic of the GT: it's an awsome truck. I'd get it over the Losi just for the durability factor. I have seen so many Losi's break and never a GT.

PITBULL

02-05-2003, 12:31 PM

yup, i use a 17 turn in with my stock esc.. works great.. no problems..

so you guys would get a gt over a xxx nt sport.. more durable huh.. well, i'm leaning that way.... i'll have some money may way within a couple of weeks and i guess i just need to come to a 100% sure decsion on which nitro st to get by then.. thanks for your help.. i know this is a evader post, but i feel comfrotable asking your opions hear even if it's about another vehicle.. thanks again.

ZootMan

02-06-2003, 03:08 PM

It has been a while from the last time i have been on this thread because i have been wanting to get into gas and i want a gt plus so i have been on the gt tread and i am learning about the car.There are also pics of the inside of the car that rc10.com did not provide.check it out.

rc10 gt forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=890433#post890433post890433)

Namvet

02-06-2003, 04:14 PM

I was running my ST in the house the other evening (cold and rainy outside). It seem (at least to me) that I was having to swing real wide to go around things.

I was at our indoor track a couple of weeks ago and they appear to be making real sharp turns on a narrow track.

Is there something that I need to adjust for sharper turning. I think if I ran on the track I would be up againest the wall on ecery turn.

Any suggestions and help will be apprecicated.

Thanks

namvet

TeamMishap

02-06-2003, 07:37 PM

Is your dual rate setting retarding your servo throw?

tamiyajoe

02-06-2003, 10:08 PM

i have been savin up my money, and i wanna buy a new car or truck. i really like the evaders. i narrowed it down to the 2 st's. i like the electric alot, but i also like the nitro too. i have seen reviews for the elec. and i really do like it, or is the nitro better. or should i just go on road?

jdm3849

02-06-2003, 10:26 PM

Nitro is better if you are looking for more realism, power, and work.

Electric is better if your looking for plug and play, easy maitnence, but shorter/slower running times.

If you are just going to be bashing and racing friends the Evader would be a good choice. There is a really good deal out now, it is a T3 RTR Special Edition. It has full rubber sealed bearings, Reedy MVP motor, F1 reverse digital ESC, NEW hitec reciever, BB MG servo, and the "team built" body. It runs for about 250$ but is the best deal out there because it is instantly race ready- the ESC has a reverse lockout and the motor is a ROAR legal 27t rebuildable motor that boosts the truck up to about 26MPH as tested in Xtreme RC cars.

The T3 is more durable than the Evader in most all circumstances, But I vote for the XXX-T in tunability. The XXX-T sport is also a runner up with it's GM ESC and JR XR2i computer radio.

I myself have run the Sprint ESC with a Sapphire 17x1 motor and a Speed Gem pro 17x2 amber on 7 cells with success. It got a little hot running indoor track but it was still safe.

pudder

02-06-2003, 10:28 PM

You can easily make an electric faster than nitro...

jdm3849

02-06-2003, 10:50 PM

Not in most cases.

for example 2 newbies.

nitro newbie- Buys a RTR GT Plus. buys 20% nitro.

electric newbie- Buys a evader with 15 minute charger and 2 1500's.

To make the nitro go faster all he has to do is buy a new engine or increase the nitro percent.

For the electric dude he will have to buy higher capacity batteries to accomodate a more powerful motor. EX- 10 turn or brushless.
To be able to charge the batteries he will need a high quality peak charger to charge the new batteries. And to handle the new motor he will new a new ESC with a low turn limit.

Looking at an easy 180 dollars for a electric brushed. (1 battery)
Looking at an easy 450 dollars to go brushless. (1 battery)

Looking at 180 dollars for some 30% and new engine.
And with nitro you can run all day without waiting for batts to charge.

k_sw31

02-06-2003, 11:58 PM

but you can still easily make an electric go faster than a nitro...isn't that why the fastest rc car top speed is held by an electric dragger?? :p

Namvet

02-07-2003, 07:54 AM

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Is your dual rate setting retarding your servo throw?

I wish I could answer you but I am new to this and don't know what this means.

Further explaination would be appreciated.

Thanks

Namvet

Aluma

02-07-2003, 08:39 AM

plus dont forget that when it goes from 80 degrees outside to 75 degrees a bit later...you have to retune your engine otherwise it'll over heat and you'll need a new one cuz the temp went too high. Or it wont even turn on cuz the needles are 1 degree off.
and there's the noxious fumes comin from the pipe and all the gunk all over the place, and the complaints from the neighbors of all the noise, plus you gotta go through almost a whole can of nitro blast to clean it properly while having to remove all the electrics ...should I go on?

electric..set it all up, go. clean it with compressed air after, a shot of electric motor cleaner in the motor....let dry. put away. no mess, no fuss, no prob. :D