HPI Super Nitro RS4 Rally

[Son Goku]

:confused:

I really wanted to know if it is possibly to fit a .21 engine into my Super Nitro RS4 Rally. As to whether it can be done, I'm totally clueless. Can someone give me some helpful suggestions please!?

[PCC]

Yes, it can be done. The SNR is basically a Nitro MT with shorter suspension arms from the Super Nitro RS4. People have installed .21 pullstart engines into NMT's with very little mods. Look around. HPI's website has a forum with a lot of information there.

[Son Goku]

Thanks alot. I'll be sure to check it out:D

[kloyal]

you play rainbow six/>?? dnwa????

[kbolt]

Hey Son Goku,
Is the stock .15 fast? Will it hit 50mph? I'm considering a super nitro or other.
Thanks

[OrcSlayer]

There is no way in he!! that .15 will hit 50. My friend has one and I have the NRS42, which should be a bit faster when geared identically simply because it is a TC and the Rally is larger and based on a ST. I think it goes about 30 at the most.

[PCC]

The NRS4 with two-speed and a good engine will hit 50 easily. Same for a Super Nitro RS4. The Super Nitro Rally, however, is way undergeared and tops out at 25 with the stock gearing. With a slipper clutch (so you can use the smaller two-speed spur gears), a 46T spur, an 18T clutchbell (get the 13/18 and cut off the 13 with a Dremel), and a good engine your SNR will hit about 45. With the two-speed and the appropriate gears it will hit 50.

My brother's NMT, when he had a 21RG in it, would hit 45 with one gear and gave my Racer 2 with CVR and two speed a run for my money in a drag race.

[kbolt]

Hey do you know which engine I should upgrade the HPI Super nitro to from the stock .15, and can they be traded out when i buy the kit?

[PCC]

What do you want to do with the car? There aren't too many tracks that have classes for superten cars so you would be bashing or racing in the outlaw class. In either case, you can run anything you want. I would get the OS 15CVR or the Trinity Picco 15 rear exhaust. The RB X12 5 port turbo is a really fast engine, too. The only thing about the NRS4 series of cars from HPI is that they really don't handle more than 1HP all that well and maintenance will go up as a result. If you run their two-speed then do yourself a favor and get the side brace for it. It will make it a lot harder to snap the two-speed shaft. It will still break but at least you will be able to get a few tanks through the car before it breaks as opposed to a few passes (yes, I've experienced this first hand: My Racer 2 two-speed shaft broke with the power of a still green 12CVR. Two shafts later, I got the brace and didn't snap another one for about two months.

[Son Goku]

Now I have switched to using my SNR for drag racing. Any engine reccomendations now?

[Nvmtrcop354]

:confused:

Does anybody out there know if there are any wheel hex adapters to convert my HPI SNR to fit 1/8th scale wheels.

pcc thanks for the gearing info

[NitroTXT1]

Go to www.neweramodels.com because they have a .21 NMT Conversion that allows you to mount Non-Pull Start .21's and you can mount any type of .21 even a 10-port Collari it should work since the Super Nitro Rally is based on the same chassis as the NMT!

[Team J and J]

it is said that the 4tec will do 50 and it has the pro15 in it but that is a street car not offroad so you may be rite :cool:

[HPI FREAK]

any guys now what I should do for the reveiver pack for the super nitro rally??

should I use the 4-cell holder? or should I go with the TRINITY RECEIVER PACK? I also need to know which charger to get.

any suggestions????

[cabo]

I HAVE ONE SUPER NITRO RALLY BUT I WANT TO KNOW WHAT DO I NEED TO CONVERT IT TO A MONSTER TRUCK NOT A STADIUM I MEAN MONSTER IS THAT POSSIBLE ???:)

[Kev6785]

ummm... i never heard of anyone who wanted to turn the SNR into a Monster Truck... Unless you're talking about the Nitro MT... if you wanted to convert to that, you would have been better off buying the Nitro MT kit. More people try to convert the SNR into an onroad car, such as I. Back on topic now, if you want to convert it into a MT, it's fairly easy, you just need MT wheels, MT turnbuckles, MT suspension arms and i think that's it.

[doctor]

I recently purchased an OS .15 CV-X Hyper as an upgrade to my SNR. I have a problem with attaching the clutchbell. It appears that the crankshaft on the engine is longer than the stock unit. The pilot shaft looks too short to fit over the crankshaft. Is there a way to fix this problem or was the engine a poor choice? Thank you for any help you may have to offer on this subject.

[PCC]

Did your SNR come with the cast flywheel or the aluminum one? The cast one has ribs molded into the back of it and the aluminum one is solid on both sides. The aluminum one requires the use of a collet and some spacers but that engine should drop right in without any problems. If you have the cast flywheel then you need to get the aluminum flywheel and collet to get it to work correctly.

[doctor]

I have the aluminum flywheel and collet. What kind of spacers are used?

[PCC]

The collet came with a pair of thick black washers. Those two go on before the collet, then the flywheel, then the pilot shaft.

[doctor]

Thank you for the help. I had already found one of the spacers but have been unable to locate the second.

[OrcSlayer]

Hey, y'all. I just put together a Super Nitro Rally for a friend of mine. He was too lazy to put it together and it had been sitting partly assembled in his room for several months. He hasn't bought a radio but this looks like a cool car and since I put it together, I figured I'd drop in and say hi. :D

[anarchysangel]

hey ive been doign a lot of research for the snr and if your into going faster i would sujest getting a good titanium turnbuckle set and front bulk heads in aluminum that will give you a lot more traction and better top end if you want to have more punch from your engine then get the 360 stinger kit from mip that will give you more top end and better overall without diong much work. another thing you can do is get a boost bottle kit from mip and that will keep the pressure in your lines equal for better take off and powerband. you can also lower the head on the .15 by taking out some of the shims on the head dont go to low though. you can also crank up the fuel and adjust your carb. also make sure you set your servos right well peace

[drift]

yessss SNR forum! What kind of mods do you guys have on yours? Mine's road tuned right now.... I have some threaded shocks, custom adjustable titanium turnbucles, road hawg tires er something like that on mesh HPI wheels, two speed transmission, purple heat sink head, air filter, and a custom tuned pipe...

I hope on either strengthening the chassi by making an upper deck out of carbon fiber, eliminating the removable part of the radio tray, so that it stops flexing from servo movement. It would make it more rigid, and improve the servos' reaction and effectiveness, making the already awsome handling better, hehe.

Well, right now, I'm waiting for my steering knuckles to get back in, because mine are broken..when it's done, i'll be switching back to off road mode, riveting my bald old wheels and tires, and pulling some ice-runs.

[BuffaloSNR]

Hey guys, my first post to the forum so be gentle =) I was delighted to find an HPI SNR under my Christmas tree this year. It's the first nitro kit I've worked on in almost seven years, and it felt great to be back into the hobby.

Unfortunently, I'm having some issues getting my throttle/brake linkage setup correctly. I'm going to do the best that I can describing the problem, and if I don't make it clear enough, I'll post again with some pictures illustrating my problem.

The issue is that when I apply the brake, and then let off the trigger to the 'nuetral' position, my throttle servo arm position has been pushed forward so that I no longer have an idle position, and at the nuetral trigger position my carb is now open about half way. More precisely, when I apply and then let off the brake and the bottom brake servo arm returns to center, it pushes the throttle servo arm forward some. I've taken apart and rebuilt precisely according to the instructions the throttle linkage on the servo a hundred times and I just don't understand how it's supposed to work. Should the bottom brake servo arm be moving independently of the upper throttle servo arm? At the moment it 'interferes' with the throttle arm position when I let off the brake. :(

Hopefully this makes sense to someone and hopefully that person has an idea as to what I can do to fix this issue. Thanks!

[PCC]

I'm not exactly clear as to what you are asking but here is something to check:

The upper half of the servo horn assembly should turn independently of the lower half, only the return spring will cause the upper half to recenter itself. If this is not happening then something is binding.

I've never liked that arrangement at all. If I were you I would look into getting the HPI slide carb conversion kit and try to use that setup.

[BuffaloSNR]

OK, I figured that people might not understand my problem from my rather verbose description. Thanks for trying to decipher it anyways. Here's some pictures to help try and illustrate the problem better:

This first picture is what my throttle linkage looks like at neutral without any brake having been applied:
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/~bickford/pics/rc_car_pics/neutral_ok.jpg

Now this is what it looks like when WOT is applied:
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/~bickford/pics/rc_car_pics/throttle_applied.jpg

Back to neutral no problems (not pictured), and then I apply the brake:
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/~bickford/pics/rc_car_pics/brake_applied.jpg

And NOW we come to the problem, when I let off the brake and return the servo to neutral, notice that my throttle servo arm has been moved forward some. This results from the brake arm returning to center and pushing the throttle arm along with it. It's hard to see but now my carb is open about 1/2 way, and neutral no longer results in the car idling, but instead taking off because the carb is open:
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/~bickford/pics/rc_car_pics/neutral_messed_up.jpg

Does this make the problem any clearer? How can I make the brake arm return to center after applying the brake without moving my throttle arm forward? The throttle arm just always seems to move along with it.

[PCC]

My answer above still applies. What is happening is that the linkage going to the brake is being pressed against the linkage going to the throttle. This drag is causing your problem. Either the top screw has an oversized washer in it causing this situation or the parts have a burr on them. Basically, if you remove the return spring and bolt the servo horn assembly onto the servo the upper part should move freely, independent of the lower part. Try backing out the screw holding the assembly together by a quarter turn and see if the problem persists.

BTW, if you want more speed out of your SNR, take the little ballstud off the end of the carb linkage (the plastic arm that is part of the carb) and reinstall it on the lower hole. This will allow the engine to reach full throttle (actually, closer to full throttle than you are now, with this particular linkage setup you will probably never get it to full throttle because the lever arm on the servo is too short and the lever arm of the carb arm is too long to achieve this). That is why I suggest the slide-carb linkage even though you are running a rotary carb.

Trade out the manifold and pipe for a T-Maxx header and a good pipe and you will be amazed at the new-found power that engine will have.

[BuffaloSNR]

Ok thanks again for the response. I've been playing with it for the past few hours and I absolutely cannot get the linkage setup to a point where it works both correctly and reliably. Which leads me to believe the most applicable thing you said in your previous post was about how the stock throttle linkage on the SNR stinks. I'm definitely going to my LHS tomorrow to get a new linkage, as you suggested.

I couldn't stand not using my car though, so I just unhooked the brake linkage all together and went outside and bashed around with the car in the snow on my driveway. WHAT A BLAST! I'm glad I stopped after about a 1/2 tank of gas though because the inside of the car was getting filled with snow that was being kicked up from the tires and under the hood. I was thinking that for fun maybe I would take some spare lexan that i have laying around and make tire flaps! :D

Thanks again for the advice, I'll let you know how it turns out.

[PCC]

Another bit of advice, if you are going to do any running on asphalt then buy yourself a set of street tires or slicks. The rally tires will wear out really fast on tarmac.

[BuffaloSNR]

Definitely, will do. Although here in Buffalo, that won't be an issue until April or so. :D I'll post back some pics and opions on my new throttle linkage setup when I get it installed and correctly setup.

[SVT Horse]

howdy everyone- so Im new to rally but I wanted a car that can go onroad and off. So aturally ive been looking into Nitro Rally cars- so far the best looking one is the HPI SNR, obviously you all are fans- but whats the inside scoop- Ive heard that they are fairly intensive- ie maintenence is heavy- and Ive also heard that they arnt all that- now let me say that I still do want one- but I want a little input from those who are running them.
thanks
scot

[BuffaloSNR]

I just got my SNR kit for Christmas and I have to say that overall it's been very enjoyable. The kit went together nicely, and it was a fun car to drive right out of the box. I haven't done much in the way of hop ups since I just got it, but it's nice to know that the SNR shares a lot of the same hopups as the MT and other Super Nitro RS4 cars from HPI. I also like the fact that I can turn my SNR into a road car or a MT, without having to buy a ton of new parts. I've heard that the SNR, when given new shocks and tires, handles very nicely as an on road car.

All in all I've been very happy with it so far, save my problems with the throttle linkage that you can read about above. That problem was easily fixed though. :D

Here's my SNR:
http://www.cse.buffalo.edu/~bickford/pics/rc_car_pics/hpiwrx3.jpg

[SNR~EVO6]

Originally posted by BuffaloSNR
And NOW we come to the problem, when I let off the brake and return the servo to neutral, notice that my throttle servo arm has been moved forward some. This results from the brake arm returning to center and pushing the throttle arm along with it. It's hard to see but now my carb is open about 1/2 way, and neutral no longer results in the car idling, but instead taking off because the carb is open:
How can I make the brake arm return to center after applying the brake without moving my throttle arm forward? The throttle arm just always seems to move along with it.

Theese may sound like stupid questions, but it is the only thing I can see. Did you install the metal C shaped band between the top and bottom parts of the servo horn? How tight is that servo horn screw, if it is too tight, it may be clamping the top and bottom together, so the spring steel can't bring the two halves back together.

[Viral_Fusion]

Whow BuffaloSNR!

I can't remember when my SNR was that clean... My fuel lines turned yellow and my tires have selve converted to racing slicks, but anyways... Finally a SNR thread, for our poor neglected cars. I havent rean mine in 2 or 3 months cuz i fried the 15fe, I was trying to get alittle more juce out of it an before u know it... Flat line. Just a tip for new SNR owners Follow the Break In pocedure unlike me where i didn't think it would make a difference. I broke it in on about 1 tank and was hitting WOT on the Second :eek: Now the idle sucks more then u can imagin and there is no top or bottom end just the annoying sound of the engine dieing out after it gets hot (because of the expansion of the sleeve, lowers compression) So anyways i'm planning to order the O.S. .12 CV-RX (S) w/10E Rotary Carb and the CVEC Dual Exhaust Tubes .12-.15 Purple ( cuz that plastic crap it comes with is well... Crap), And the Powerline Radio Tray Nitro RS4 MT cuz i kinda noticed (in the short time my car actually ran) that the servos flexed the radio tray, so this should increase steering responce. I'm not sure if i should get the racing clutch, i've heard that it doesn't slip as much as the 2 shoe clutches. Anyfeed back on what i'm getting would be nice

Thanks In Advance

[Viral_Fusion]

BuffaloSNR

have u tryed to extend the amount of the metal link thing? in the pictures looks like the brakes are on, turn the knob thing and make the breaks "turn On" when the servo goes backwards.

[JSB]

I don't think they are suppose to move like that at all. I could be wrong, I switched to a slide right away when I got mine because it was always having to be adjusted. Anyway, it looks as if you don't have part A396B in place or something, because that should keep those pieces moving like that. I hope this helps.


http://pics.montypics.com/jsb/2003-01-16/snr_24.jpg


By the way nice rally...where are you located. I'm in Dallas, Tx area. Here's mine.

http://pics.montypics.com/jsb/2003-01-16/wrxcontest8.jpg

[flix]

JSB,

Nice ! I'm planning on getting the SNR as well. I was thinking of getting the Subaru(I do love the way that car looks) but may get the Lancer instead since everybody gets the Subaru. I'm also in the Dallas area, once I'm all set up I'd like to hunt everybody in Dallas with an SNR or any nitro rally car and start rally racing. Maybe at Indy.

Do you know anybody else with nitro rally cars in the area?

flix

[JSB]

One of my buddies has the Lancer. Here's a picture of it and my old body. I don't know of many with the Rally setup though, they either have touring or trucks.

http://pics.montypics.com/jsb/2003-01-16/snr5.jpg

[flix]

hi,

just ordered the Subaru SNR from Hobbytown in Dallas. Figured I might as well get it from LHS instead of Tower for the support in case I need it.

Hope to see everybody in the Dallas area shortly. There seems to be quite a few people from Dallas on this board.

I'll take my time putting it together. i want to do it right and enjoy the build process.

thanks.
flix

[Viral_Fusion]

Originally posted by flix
hi,

just ordered the Subaru SNR from Hobbytown in Dallas. Figured I might as well get it from LHS instead of Tower for the support in case I need it.

Hope to see everybody in the Dallas area shortly. There seems to be quite a few people from Dallas on this board.

I'll take my time putting it together. i want to do it right and enjoy the build process.

thanks.
flix


Just be careful of the Diff screws, seems like almost everyone i talk to have striped them.

[flix]

thanks for the info. I'll have to remember that.

anything else I need to keep in mind?


thanks.
felix

[JSB]

Be careful with the microscopic c clips. They like to shoot off and disappear. My buddy built his in 11 hours...so don't feel like it's going to take you a week or two. That was only his second car to build too. What controller did you buy? Just curious.


BuffaloSNR - where are you?????
Has the problem been ressolved?

[flix]

I ordered the Airtronics MX-3. It's got great reviews plus seems to have a lot of features for the price.

Has anybody looked into the Schlesser rally body from CEN Racing? The car body looks like the buggies that they run in the Paris Dakar rallies. There seems to be a lot of potential for this body. It fits on their 1/10 scale buggies and rally cars with a wheelbase of 276mm. It seems that it might work with the SNR with the wheelbase set to 280mm and maybe a little trimming of the body. Just don't know how wide the body is, but figuring the SNR chassis uses the MT chassis which is 1/10 scale, I thought it might still work. Also, the body style looks like it may allow the MT suspension be put on with buggy tires to allow for higher ground clearance. I may just order it and play around with it.
I think I may end up having more fun just trying to play around with customizing the SNR than running it.

i've attached a pic of that body. Let me know what y'all think.
thanks.

[smallman28]

My Subaru SNR with body,when I first got it

[nitrostud]

well, well, well, i thought this thread was dead. good to know that the SNR guys are still alive. I converted form an NMT so I know the ins and outs of this car all to well (took me 7 months and im tired), so what sort of mods do you guys have on yours. I cant think of anything else I can do to mine. In trying not to change the subject to much i realized yall have one thing I don't, bodies i got the WRX but I don't know how to paint it. What looks good on this thing? Lets see the insides of some of these things, your shells are great but looks only go as far as your engine pushes it.

BuffaloSNR- i hope you noticed that you only got 1 zip on your silicon exaust coupler, an i just want to know why you didnt use the radio tray, mine holds my JR XR2 system fine but it looks like you only routed the antena thought it. (That throtle likage is a piece of junk I wanna figure out a way make it better, it puts to much stress on the carb)

[flix]

hi,

I'm still building my car. Taking my time. I did get that rally body from CEN racing and it looks like it would fit with the wheelbase set to 280mm.

Since you've come from the NMT, do you know how much wider the NMT is at the wheels than the SNR and how much higher the ride height is on the NMT? I'm thinking of getting parts so that I can convert the SNR to a NMT when I want to go really off-road(or i could just buy a rolling chassis, but I think it's more fun to just buy the parts.) and use the CEN racing body as sort of a truck body.

thanks.
flix

[Fidelio]

Here's a pic of my SNR (Christmas gift).

http://kwago.com/files/SNR01.jpg


Flix, here's a list of parts needed for the conversion and HPI's opinion on the subject.

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58316

[prototype]

does anyone here know how to put a 4 stroke into the Super nitro rally if so could u please tell me what parts do i need and where to get thems i have already bought the OS 40c thanks for ur help

[flix]

fidelio,

nice job with the painting. that red really stands out.
i saw that list of parts too from HPI's forum and it did make me think twice about converting it to a truck. I might just check on Ebay or local shop for just the chassis and suspension parts.

thanks.
flix

[prototype]

help please anyone

[flix]

sorry, wouldn't know about that. I'm still building mine.


flix

[smallman28]

After killing the tyres that came with my SNR I finally got round to getting some new ones.
I got myself 4 HPI black mesh wheels and 4 Tamiya TGX rally block tyres,well not trying to knock anything HPI I have to say that the Tamiya tyres appear to be very well made with internal belting and foams supplied as standard.
They are slightly bigger (taller) overall than the HPI rally blocks that I had before but they sure do make a lot of difference to the handling,the car seems a lot steadier in corners than it used to.
Well I was out I thought might try running on some grass,it seemed dry but it was a big mistake,when I finished running the inside was a right mess with big clumps of mud everywhere.
I think I will wait till later in the year when the grass/ground is baked hard and cracking before I do that again.
Another quick point has anyone tried any of the Kyosho Landmax series bodies such as this

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMU36&P=7

on their SNR with any luck?

[Fabulous]

Hello all,

I am happy to report I finished my SNR and finished the break in of my engine. Plus I had some free time to paint up two bodies for the SNR. Here are some process shots and some body shots.
Ive taken out the SNR for test driving and I am so glad that I got the SNR! FUN FUN FUN is all I can say with this bad boy. I love teh scale and the on/off road capability! I was jumping off curbs, cracks in the roads, little bumps here and there on roads...plus here in Canada its winter time, so snow bashing was called for, and playing with ice! Was a blast, and would recommend this RC to any one!


On to the pics hope you enjoy!

http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc1.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc2.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc3.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc4.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc5.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc6.jpg
http://www.lastflightout.net/Fab/rc7.jpg

[JeffRS4_3ss]

Hi everyone :)
I'm thinking of buying a SN Rally and i was wondering how good is it for jump's, speed, durabilatiy, and price?
I already have an rs4-3ss and i have the need for off-road :D

~*Thanx*~

[flix]

I wouldn't know since i'm still building mine but from what I've read, you're not going to be jumping this thing like you would a truck or buggy. That said, I've also heard from people that they handle pretty well on off-road tracks. You just have to be careful on the big jumps. If anybody has run these things on buggy courses, I would be interested in finding out how they ran.


Also, here's a link that has a lot of info on the SNR.

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=86&sid=ae1228128355564d2746155898c69483

if that doesn't work go to www.HPIforums.com under the Rally forum.

thanks.
flix

[JSB]

As far as Jumping is concerned...It's no truck or Buggy, but it can handle it's share of jumps in my opinion. That is if you jump it right. I'd say your safe with small to medium jumps. I've jumped mine on some jumps that many probably wouldn't, but I've never had anything break yet.

As far as speed goes, it depends on what you put on it. My rally can beat my brothers RS4 RTR 3 with a two speed.
Of course I have the .15SS with a two speed as well.

Durability? I've only HAD to replace an A arm, because of a collision with another car...actually a Tmaxx head on.

Price - I think it's average. I bought mine used from a guy who didn't like it after a few times out. He swapped to a truck, and I bought his car along with some other things for $150. Just like any car though, you sink money into it. I bought a two speed, a motor, an exhaust, a header, CB's, Spurs, fuel lines, air filters, slide carb linkage, high torque servo, you name it. It all adds up.

I hope this helps.

[JeffRS4_3ss]

Thanx alot :) that really help's alot and i probably will buy :D just need a bit more money ;)

[talon51]

Hey, I see this forum is still alive and well, so I figured I might as well check in...
I got a used SNR last August, and got 2 runs out of it before the .15FE gave up:mad:. I guess the guy I bought it from ran it really lean, or more than he said he did...the car is awesome (for the 2 runs I got since then :(...) but its been shelved with me going to college, and being unemployed, so this spring, when I get my tax refund, I'm gonna make this thing kick some...butt. I'm gonna get a Fantom FR .15 SC/PS, a tube header, and a Paris Turbo ring, this thing is gonna be fast:D. Before I ran it, I also geared it up to 15/51, installed a lightened flywheel, fiber disk brake, and slipper clutch. I'm gonna have to upgrade the chassis, I can't believe how flexable this car is, both front to back and side to side, and the engine mount screws aren't countersunk, and I know they're gonna cause a problem. I just need to know if the HPI super chassis has counter sunk engine mounts, if not I'm gonna find one from someone else, or machine my own here at RIT's fabulous machine shop. I'm also going to replace the stock servo saver with something very heavy duty, because I have a Futaba S9450 to handle the steering, and maybe throw in some more parts to reduce the chassis flex and of course, some Ti turnbuckles (being a big racer, I can't stand anything but a good set of Lunsfords), its gonna be my spring project car.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid52/p3a00f6cd8cb8f356fc5e49857219aa15/fc9a6531.jpg

I'll keep you guys updated on the project...
Later,
Talon

[flix]

I'm interested in upgrading my steering servo to something more heavy duty but don't want to spend $140 on the Futaba S9450. Does anybody have any suggestions on a good servo for around $50-70?

thanks.
flix

[talon51]

Actually I have 2 S9450s, the other one was on my gas truck, but I'm trying to sell it, so I'm saving it for when I get a nitro TC. Try ebay, thats where I got mine, for $80 NIB. I'm sure you could find a comparable servo for much less, like an S9402 or something like that on ebay. Also try HItec and Airtronics, they make some great servos, I'm just not familiar with any of the model numbers.

[TXBlueBeast]

Not trying to change the subject but we just got our little dose of sleet/ice last night and I spent about 4 hours out running my SN Rally in the ice. It ran awesome. The drifts and 360 were badazz. I am glad that I got this car as my first R/C.

[Janders]

and I had some fun with my Tamiya TB01 rally in the ice as well. I even made a little movie in the electric rally forum. The drifting was so realistic and fun!

[JSB]

I didn't think to run mine on the ice. I was too busy 4WDriving in the High School Parking lot. Anyway...about the High torque Servo. I think HiTec makes an enexpensive one. I bought one and it has been flawless. I think it was in the dollar range your wanting. Here's a listing at tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=hitec+high+torque&FVPROFIL=++

[tl01boi]

hey i have a supernitro with a 2 speed tranny 3 sets of wheels two bodies a bigger heatsink tuned exhaust and 1 extra tuned exhaust the heat sink was dipped in chrome as well as one of the tuned exhaust it needs the two speed gears 2 pulleys and rear belt that will run u about 26dollars max at towerhobbies.com i will trade car for car or car with no engine or servos for car with no engine or servos

[hilltopper]

i own a super nitro rally,and ive done all the necessary thing you need to do to prepare the car for onroad..except gearing it a little higher..would this be the reason i strip my second gear a lot???the engine mesh is perfect,i dont know what else to do..i really love this car but im getting fed up with constantly having to replace gears..

[smallman28]

My current set up including the Powerline upper deck and Motorsaver air filter that I finally received today.
Other hop ups include graphite front and rear shock towers,harder front and rear springs,15T clutch with 47T spur gear and Powerline cooling head to name but a few.

[TeamHPI]

Hi all,

I recently bought a second hand SNR and now that I have had the chance to have a play with it and take it apart and rebuild it a couple of times I have the bug for more power and better handling.

The car will be mainly used on road with a little off road use and aside a larger air filter the car is in stock form (apart from the items on order listed below) so I am looking for advice on what to upgrade. I have read many threads advising what can be done but still need a little help with...
[list=1]
What treaded tyres (wets) will fit on to the standard SNR rims?
What is the best "low cost" metal tuned pipe and will it offer much of an improvement in performance over the stock pipe?
Is there a larger fuel tank that will fit in the SNR?
What is the best $100 - $150 Pull Start .15 engine available and how much more speed and acceleration will it give me over the .15FE?
What is the best % Nitro fuel to use for good power but with medium engine life?
[/list=1]
I already have the following items ordered:

HPI 2-Speed Transmission Nitro 3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTB6&P=V)

Powerline 12 Fin Head Nitro RS4 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVB46&P=6)

HPI Cylinder & Piston .15 FE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXNH05)

HPI Screw Set Nitro Star (8) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVL97)

HPI Gasket Set (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXN407)

Traxxas Exhaust Header Blue T-Maxx (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP45&P=7)

Traxxas Header & Fitting Gaskets (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJL16&P=V)

HPI Silicone Exhaust Coupling 12x18x30mm Purple (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDLH8)

Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter Blue (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHE3&P=7)

Dubro Fuel Line Clips Medium (4) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD751&P=M) x 2

HPI RS4 MT Spring Rear Blue/Hard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN155&P=7)

HPI RS4 MT Spring Front Blue/Hard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN152&P=0)

HPI Mesh Wheel 2.2" Gold (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBLH7) x 2

HPI Mesh Wheel 57x35mm Gray (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNZ43&P=9) x 2

Trinity Blue Aluminum Nuts Flanged 4mm (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXWS37)

HPI M Compound Rally Tire Super Nitro RS4 (2) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXZK77) x 2

Great Planes Pro CA Glue 1/2 oz. Thin (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXK281)

Trinity 40 Weight Silicone Shock Oil (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKB51&P=C)

Plus various gaskets, screws etc....


Many thanks for your help.

http://www.coastguard-kites.com/SNR1.jpg

[talon51]

Just a few things I figured I'd mention...If you want an engine with lots of power for a fairly low cost, get a Fantom FR.15. They are around $130, and come in pull and non-pull versions, as well as slide and rotary carb. These engines are rated at about 1.25HP, which is at least .75HP more than the stock .15FE. If you're gonna lower it for onroad, getting turnbuckles will help alot, because if you lower it with the stock fixed links, you camber and toe will be really, really off, which will cause poor tire wear, bad traction and all kinds of other problems. They'll save you in the long run. I'd also replace the stock flywheel with one of HPI's lightened flywheels, they're more durable and will give you faster spool up. The racing clutch might not be a bad idea either, especially with a high output engine.

I'm also in the process of modifying my SNR, I should be getting my new engine and pipe fairly soon, it all depends on when the IRS gets my tax refund back to me...I'm getting the Fantom FR15 Pullstart/slidecarb, a Paris Turbo ring pipe, HPI's high flow header for the Nitro 3, as well as new linkages and servo savers. I've already got the fiber disk brake, slipper clutch and lightened flywheel, so it'll be ready to go when I get the engine and stuff in a few weeks. I'll keep you all posted...

Later,
Talon

[smallman28]

One other thing I would add to that list if you haven't got one already is a failsafe.
I speak from experience and a £100 repair bill,last week I was running my SNR when I had a total loss of control and crashed into a wall at full speed after about a 100ft run up!
It seems that the ariel wire got cut by the ariel mount on the Powerline upper deck I had fitted that day,I am slowly rebuilding this time mindful of what could/can happen and taking more care routing wires etc.
The failsafe I have fitted detects both a loss of signal and low battery situations and returns the throttle to a safe setting which you can preset yourself,the only thing I have to be careful of now is if the battery pack falls out!

[TeamHPI]

OUCH!!!

Sorry to hear about your smash Smallman28, nice looking car too!

I have a GWS FS-2 (http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/gws_fs-2_basic_fail_safe_unit__futaba__1318623.htm) fail safe unit which only returns the servo to neutral with loss of signal and not receiver power loss.

If the receiver looses power how will your fail safe power the servo back to neutral?

P.S. I like your brass exhaust pipe extension, what did you use?

Talon51, thanks for the info.

[smallman28]

I have basically the same failsafe as you except mine is the next "model up" if you like,as long as there is power to the receiver the unit will fuction and if the bettery power falls too low the failsafe also activates setting the servo to full brake.
Like I said the only thing I have to worry about now is if the battery pack falls out or a wire to the battery breaks or gets cut through.
The exhaust was just on off cut of brass,cant remember the exact size I am afraid.

[TeamHPI]

Many thanks for the info.

Where do you buy your hop up's from, do you use a UK retailer of do you find importing from Tower Hobbies cheaper?

Also, I know it sounds morbid but do you have a pic of your SNR in its broken state, it will be good reminder for me not to push mine too hard! :D

Regards,

Phil.

[smallman28]

No sorry I couldn't bring myself to take a pic,basically bent in the middle with a stripped spur gear,cracked steering servo and broken front suspension arms and a now very busted body.
I will still drive it hard when its going,you have to really!
I get most parts from the UK as it only takes a few days and tend to get hop-ups from Tower as even with postage it's cheaper than over here.
The body is now next on the list (from the UK) along with a CVEC exhaust which I will get from Tower as it cost the equivilant of $73 over here from the one company that sells it.

[TeamHPI]

I was considering the CVEC (http://www.maxxskunkworks.com/ModsCVEC.htm) pipe, does it offer beter performance than the Fantom (http://www.fantom-motors.com/products/pipe.htm) and Paris Turbo (http://www.ehobbies.com/1004-0582.html) pipes?

Also, does anyone know what make/size/part number tyres this TT is sitting on cos they certainly look like SNR hubs?

http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/tt/tt2.jpg

[smallman28]

Dont know if it is these in the picture but HPI do do a chrome 5 spoke,part number is HP3032

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA2&P=7

[TeamHPI]

Smallman28,

Those are definately the hubs but it is the treaded tyres to fit them (as per the pic) that I am having trouble finding.

[smallman28]

Didnt read your question properlety the first time but judging by the fact that there is no TT shell for and SN or SNR then it is probably a 1/10 Nitro 3 which uses wheels and tyres smaller than the SN/SNR range of cars.
Whilst these wheels/tyres will fit it is not such a good idea to fit them as it does lower top speed somewhat as they are a smaller overall circumference.

[TeamHPI]

I dont plan to fit smaller wheels but am desperately in need of treaded tyres for standard SNR 57x35 wheels and these ones looked like one of the many HPI Audi TT's fitted with the oversized SNR wheels...

Standard TT with standard 52x26 wheels...
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic7423.jpg

52x26 Wheels (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM946)...
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic3697.jpg

Pic with tyres in question...
http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/tt/tt2.jpg

SNR 57x35 Chrome SNR Lancer wheels (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA2&P=7)...
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic3032.jpg

[talon51]

I've been told that 2.2" buggy tires fit on the SNR wheels, I've never tried it or seen it, but I've heard its been done with very few problems. Proline makes street hawgs or something treaded for buggies, and they should fit...

[smallman28]

These were the ones I was thinking of getting

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV620&P=0

I think they should fit SNR rims.

[TeamHPI]

Talon51,
I too have read that 2.2 buggy tyres from either Kyosho or Tamiya will fit and also Pro-Line Hawgs but I cannot find them anywhere???

Smallman28,
They are great looking tyres but I don't think they will fit SNR rims as they have a diameter of 73mm and SNR rims are 57mm or do you think they might be refering to the outside diameter of those tyres?

[smallman28]

The 73mm refers to the outside diameter of the tyre not the opening in the center for the wheel.
Compare them with this and you will see what I am on about

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLV91&P=7

[TeamHPI]

Well done Smallman28!

WE HAVE A WINNER!!!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV620&P=0

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6243.jpg

[RaceDude]

I'm looking to buy my first off-road car and the Super Nitro Rally seems like a good choice. I don't want to pay too much so I'm looking for the best buy.

So far I've come up with this:
http://www.meganitro.com/rally.htm

Is that a good deal or could I get it for less elsewhere?

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by RaceDude
I'm looking to buy my first off-road car and the Super Nitro Rally seems like a good choice. I don't want to pay too much so I'm looking for the best buy.

So far I've come up with this:
http://www.meganitro.com/rally.htm

Is that a good deal or could I get it for less elsewhere?

try going to towerhobbies.com

[TeamHPI]

The SNR is $279.95 at Tower Hobbies.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXJ41&P=7

[RaceDude]

Of the 3 available bodies styles only one is in stock and it's not the one I want... Meganitro say they have all in stock.

Tower charges $45 for shipping to Europe, the $310 from Meganitro includes shipping...

I'll go for Meganitro then, if Tower can't beat their price, who can?

Thanks for suggestions though!

[tl01boi]

try going to ultimatehobbies.com the kit is only 239.99

[bpc-rally]

i have a super nitro rally! heres pics lemme know what you guys think

http://community.webshots.com/user/bpcrally

[talon51]

TeamHPI :

Those kyosho tires are sweet, I'm gonna have to pick up a set. Lemme know how well they stick...

Later
Talon

[smallman28]

I am back up and running again after my accident and it only took me about a week to get all the parts so that was good.
Have been a bit more careful this time with the routing of wires and have tried to keep them as tidy and secure as possible,I even shortened the wire on the steering servo and the failsafe to help with this.
The only problem I seem to be having now is keeping going,I can start okay and it runs fine but when I get to the last 1/3 of a tank or so of fuel the car tends to splutter to a stop and it proves difficult to restart.
I have the idle set okay as it works fine up to this point,I have also tried various carb settings but to no avail,
I am tending to think the engine might be knackered to some degree as when I had my accident the car was screaming its head off at full throtlle into a brick wall for some 20-30 seconds before I could get to it and stop it.
After the next round of hop-ups a new engine might be on the cards,any ideas anyone?

[bpc-rally]

go here to see a vid of my snr, goto the photo section

http://members.rogers.com/bradenchapin/

[tl01boi]

i have a super nitro rs4 rtr with a 2 speed tranny new side belt new rear belt extra main belt over sized sinkhead extra piston and sleeve 2 extra shocks 2 extra springs 2 bodies 3 sets of wheels im selling it for 220 or i would like to trade for a nitro onroad or off road (shaft) only rc car because i can convert it into a rally car im looking for a super nitro rally email me at KhMyAzNbOi@yahoo.com or if u have a rtr3 or other onroad/offroad shaft driven nitro cars

[bpc-rally]

ok so for a vid of a Super nitro rally goto here: http://members.rogers.com/bradenchapin

goto the photo section, and right click and goto save as target,,, it seems to not connect for streaming, so just d/l it

the car is 15cv-x
tmaxx header
nitro 3 2-speed,
lightwiegt fly
racing clutch
ENJOY AND POST COMMENTS!!

[bpc-rally]

i need all of your help!! i have a super nitro rally, i have a nitro 3 2 speed in it... well it worked fine but now all the sudden it wont shift!! it just revs higher and higher!!

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by bpc-rally
i need all of your help!! i have a super nitro rally, i have a nitro 3 2 speed in it... well it worked fine but now all the sudden it wont shift!! it just revs higher and higher!!


try afjusting the screws in the 2 speed tranny

[TeamHPI]

Here is HPI's instruction manual for the 2 speed tranny.

Details on how to adjust gear shift are on page 4.

PAGE 1 (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/86038n3_2sp/I-86038-2%20P1_A4.jpg)

PAGE 2 (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/86038n3_2sp/I-86038-2%20P2_A4.jpg)

PAGE 3 (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/86038n3_2sp/I-86038-2%20P3_A4.jpg)

PAGE 4 (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/86038n3_2sp/I-86038-2%20P4_A4.jpg)

GEAR CHART (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/76977-1.jpg)

Hope this helps.

[TeamHPI]

talon51,

Pics of my new Kyosho tyres (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV620&P=0) on SNR rims as promised...

http://freespace.virgin.net/kite.surf/SNRwheel1.jpg

http://freespace.virgin.net/kite.surf/SNRwheel2.jpg

[smallman28]

Well I think I know what my next purchase will be now!
I should have bought these tyres at the time instead of the Tamiya TGX blocks I have now.
Still it will tie in quite nicely with my plan to get the F150 body shell,a set of those wheels and tyres should look good with that body shell I think.

[Fidelio]

heh, TeamHPI, that car ever seen the dirt?

last time my SNR was that clean was right after assembly.

[Fidelio]

btw- for anyone looking for tire options should take a look at this.

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59348

enjoy :)

i sent hpi 2 lists of tires and they were nice enough to verify which ones would work and listed them on their website.

now if i could only convince them to make an inner body set. :rolleyes:

[TeamHPI]

Fidelio, That pic was taken directly after a complete rebuild.

And reference your tyre list, those Kyosho Low Profile Hi-Grip Rear Super 10 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV576&P=0) tyres and the wider 57x40mm Kyosho 5-Spoke Rear Low Profile (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXV788&P=V) wheels sound very interesting!

Only 5mm wider than standard SNR hubs/tyres but I bet they would fill out the arches nicely!!

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6194.jpg http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6435.jpg

[bpc-rally]

i have tamiya rally block tires on mine, if i soften them up will they grip onroad better?

[TeamHPI]

By design Rally Block tyres have less surface contact on tarmac so will only perform their best on a loose surface.

[TeamHPI]

A loose header recently contaminated the one way bearing in my .15FE pull start with oil, I have tried cleaning it with a dry cloth and even boiling it in water then heating it to dry it out and still it sticks on recoil, has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions?

[talon51]

TeamHPI, how much did those Kyosho tires cost ya, I might have to get a set...

[TeamHPI]

talon51, I think there are links to all the relevant Tower Hobbies pages in previous posts in this thread.

[Fidelio]

TeamHPI, which exhaust manifold is that, how much was it, and where did you get it?

It almost looks like a traxxas one.

I'm looking for a new manifold and pipe for my SNR. :)

[smallman28]

TeamHPI,when you fitted the TMaxx header how did you go about re-attaching the exhaust?
Basically I have also fitted this header and found it quite a bit shorter than the HPI stock item and now the exhaust doesnt fit in the same place as it used to.
Did you just drill a new hole in the chassis for the front support arm or what?
Also did you fit the header before or after the body,only asking as now the cut out in my body no longer lines up with the exhaust!

[Mossdog]

Hello Rally doods!

Although I designed my bumpers for the NMT, both the Rally and the NMT share common components. My custom plastic bumpers would fit the Rally as well as the trucks. Interested? Check out my webpage!

Mossdogs Plastic Bumpers (http://www.mossdog.freeservers.com)

Thanks!

P.S If you people are looking for a good, cheap Highflow header (the Maxx header can fit inside this one!) check out the Duratrax header for the overdrive ST.

Duratrax header (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXN1&P=7)

[Fidelio]

hey Mossdog i'd just like to say trilordy vid's rock and i've sucked up a ton of your bandwidth. :p

keep up the good work.

i'm in atlanta and have seen you guys came down to sugarbowl once, next trip be sure and check out http://www.tfbraceway.com while your here.

i'd love to come and watch you guys rip it up.

[smallman28]

I have recintly received my racing clutch and have been looking on the HPI website to see how best to cut it as my instructions are a bit to dark to see clearly.
When I looked I was a bit suprised,my clutch by comparission seems to have very little material on it.
I have enclosed this pic from the HPI website and the area I have coloured red is about the total amount of material I have on the clutch I received,is this correct,there seems to be very little contact area.

[Fidelio]

Mossdog, about your bumper, I don't think it would work on the SNR because the body posts on the SNR are on the front bumper. So while your bumper would fit, it would leave no place to mount a body.

smallman, i have the same clutch and haven't had a prob with it yet. try it out, if it doesn't grip or it slips too much, get an exchange, but i think it'll work just fine.

as for cutting check here (which you've probably already seen).

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/a885.jpg

[smallman28]

Thanks for that,it was how I discovered what I thought might be wrong with the clutch I received.
I have since found another picture on the HPI website that more ressembles what I have got,so I dont think it is faulty after all.

[PCC]

Originally posted by smallman28
TeamHPI,when you fitted the TMaxx header how did you go about re-attaching the exhaust?
Basically I have also fitted this header and found it quite a bit shorter than the HPI stock item and now the exhaust doesnt fit in the same place as it used to.
Did you just drill a new hole in the chassis for the front support arm or what?
Also did you fit the header before or after the body,only asking as now the cut out in my body no longer lines up with the exhaust!
The T-Maxx header moves the pipe back about 1.25" (about 30mm). You will need to cut a new hole for the stinger from your pipe and come up with a way to hold the front of the pipe up since the end of the pipe is now beside the fuel tank.

[Fidelio]

i bought the Dynamite tmaxx header pipe combo and it too was short. what i did was drilled a hole in the bottom of the plastic piece the HPI pipe attached to then secured the metal bit that you usually attach to the chassis to it, the enlarged the hole in the tip of the pipe and that piece just a tiny bit so I could fit a scrap of 12 gauge wire (piece i used was copper electrical wire) into both ends and tightened them down. i bent the ends of the wire around so if during testing anything came loose it wouldn't fly away.

works great so far, no problems. hope the pics help.

yeah i know the pipe is the wrong color and ugly but it was the only one they had when i needed it. :[

[Fidelio]

I also turned the pipe so it pointed halfway towards the ground so I didn't have to cut a new hole in my body, it just sprays underneath it.

[Fidelio]

I can't believe the 'Rush' forum gets more action than this one.

C'mon guys and show your rally pride! :D

[smallman28]

Just thought I would post a quick pic of the car as it is at the moment.
Received the Associated RPM pipe today along with a new fuel tank which I think is much better than the old one,I went with one with a primer on it for now as it was the cheaper option.
The primer mechanism itself seems much more robust than on the standard tank and I prefer the lid mounting for the pressure pipe.
I just quickly put it together for now with the old FE so I could make up the exhaust holder,just hope the OS doesn't prove to be too different when I get it and have to remake the holder,still it's only a bit of wire and I was bored this morning.

[Fidelio]

nice lookin pipe. how much was it?

[smallman28]

Dont know if you are from the UK but it was £28.99,equal to about $47,it is on the Tower website at $28.

[nitrobuggyfan]

Hi guys,
I'm looking at a super nitro rally or a kyosho 7.5. I was wondering if you could tell me how you like your super nitro rallies, what they are like to drive and own, etc. thanks

mark

[smallman28]

If I were buying now I would get the Kyosho,even if it is a little bit more expensive.
The SNR is better supported in terms of hop-ups etc but I have seen the Kyosho and it is a very well built piece of kit which has a good turn of speed straight out of the box.

[wrxdan]

Does anyone know if these will work in the rear. My SNR has them in the front, the back (black) one are worn out. These are so much tougher, but they are longer so not sure if they will work?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXWC17

Dan

[smallman28]

Not sure they will work in the rear due to the extra lenght like you suggested.
The only way I could see is to swap the diffs around so you could try the front ones in the rear first to see,a lot of disassembly I know.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by smallman28
Not sure they will work in the rear due to the extra lenght like you suggested.
The only way I could see is to swap the diffs around so you could try the front ones in the rear first to see,a lot of disassembly I know.

Nope, they don't work. The bind up the dogbones when the shock are full compressed.

[Fidelio]

you can use them in the front though, which is actually suggested by hpi because the black ones are a little too short and will let the dogbones slip out when you have the wheels turned fully.

hpi suggests using the Rush diff outdrive cups in the front but those look the same.

[Danny Chi]

heres my memorial weekend ride.

[Kenny123]

is there any cvd's for the nitro rally? If not can I make some with mip parts? What parts will I need?

[Fidelio]

MIP CVD Bone for Associated RC10 B2/B3 #1010 or Team Associated #9278
MIP MT Axle (Front) - #1071 or HPI #80817
MIP MT Axle (Rear) - #1072 or HPI #80818
MIP Coupling Kit - #1012

NOTE: The ends of the CVD Bones will sit right on the edge of the diff outdrive cups, so if you are using a powerful engine (1 hp or more) you may have trouble with the CVD getting damaged. You can use the longer #72133 Rush outdrives to avoid that problem.

[theShark]

hey, anyone found a way to stop the engine from moving when using the throttle/brake without having to buy a new chassis? I can't believe they put a 2mm chassis on a rally car....bah

http://www.eosah.com/shark/snrslide.jpg

[jiggen5354]

pics of my snr. currently awaiting a new engine

[jiggen5354]

another angle

[PCC]

Originally posted by theShark
hey, anyone found a way to stop the engine from moving when using the throttle/brake without having to buy a new chassis? I can't believe they put a 2mm chassis on a rally car....bah[/IMG]
Replace the flexible plastic upper deck with a graphite, titanium, or aluminum one.

[bizaare69]

i was wondering about the snr how hot does it get before you turn it offf how long run times do you get or is it just until you run out of gas and how long if heated to let it cool before driving again
:confused:

[Johnny5Rally]

My Super Nitro Rally should be in by Thursday! Since I'll mostly be using mine off road, I'm considering putting in bigger shocks for better off-road clearance. I'm currently looking at HPI's A723 and A725 kits. Will these kits work for the Rally? Based on HPI's website the Rally uses the MT suspension and fronts struts on all four corners. Does that mean I have to use the A723 kit on all four wheels, or will the A725(MT rear kit) work on the Rally's rear suspension?

Thanks,
John

[PCC]

The SNR uses the NMT front shocks in the front and NMT rear shocks in the rear.

[Johnny5Rally]

Are you sure? This is copied directly off HPI's website:

The Super Nitro RS4 Rally uses the same suspension from the Super Nitro kit. The front shocks from the Nitro MT are used at both ends of the Super Nitro Rally for long-stroke shock dampening. Super tough nylon shock towers resist breaking from the worst wrecks and have alternate shock positions for fine-tuning the handling, on the street or in the dirt.


This leads me to believe that the Nitro MT front shocks are only used :confused:

Thanks,
John

[PCC]

I've converted my NMT into a SNR at one point. Used the rear shocks in the rear of the SNR no problem. If I were to have used the fronts in the rear the back of the car would have been much lower to the ground.

Here's something you can do, follow this link (http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/index.htm) and look at page 17 on the NMT Racer instructions and page 19 on the SNR instructions. You will see that both pages are nearly identical. Page 16 of the NMT Racer instructions and page 18 of the SNR instructions are likewise nearly identical. These pages outline the assembly of the rear shocks on both kits as well as the fronts.

[BLiND]

Originally posted by Johnny5Rally
Are you sure? This is copied directly off HPI's website:

The Super Nitro RS4 Rally uses the same suspension from the Super Nitro kit. The front shocks from the Nitro MT are used at both ends of the Super Nitro Rally for long-stroke shock dampening. Super tough nylon shock towers resist breaking from the worst wrecks and have alternate shock positions for fine-tuning the handling, on the street or in the dirt.


This leads me to believe that the Nitro MT front shocks are only used :confused:

Thanks,
John

I use RC10GT shocks on my SNR, they fit and work MUCH better than the stock ones also IMO.

plus, since people part out RC10GT's all the time on eBay, I got the set brand new for $20 shipped.

[Johnny5Rally]

I'm looking for a better engine for the SNR. One that has more power, but can't be too difficult to tune. So far I'm looking at the following:

OS .15 CV-RX w/10ER
HPI 15SS
EPIC .18 Slide Carb, SG Shaft, Pull Start
Fantom FR15 '03 Side Exhaust, Slide Carb, Pull Start

Of these four engines which will fit the SNR the easiest, i.e. least amount of modifications. It also shouldn't take more time to tune than actually run. Some have said that the HPI 15SS is a pain to tune, is it true? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Johnny5Rally]

Also which of the engines I mentioned above are compatible with the HPI/Hot Bodies Roto start backing plate? The pull start on the 15FE only lasted two pulls before I broke it, so whatever engine I get must be roto startable.

Thanks,
John

[agricus]

Hi, I am new to this forum.

I just finished building my SNR

I only change the spring to firm in hope that i can make it drift...:D

Anyway I do have one question

When the tank is almost empty. The engine will suddenly start reving up and the car starts accelerating with any control input for the Radio control. And then die. This will only happen when the tank is almost empty.


Is this normal?

[CrackerGee]

Hey all! I have a heavily modded street SNR (as well as a NMT and Nitro 3). There are only just a few stock kit parts I'm still using but that's mainly because I haven't got around to hopping it up yet or because there is no need to upgrade those parts. I hope to be able to post some pictures of my cars here but don't know where to host them?? :rolleyes:

I just wanted to check in and say hello to all... I used to visit the HPI forum frequently back in the day when it was up...hoping to see some familiar names here:D

C-YAH!
krackerg

[CrackerGee]

Originally posted by agricus
... When the tank is almost empty. The engine will suddenly start reving up and the car starts accelerating with any control input for the Radio control. And then die. This will only happen when the tank is almost empty.


Is this normal?

Yes it is normal...with less fuel present, the car is running lean (more air than gas) for those few seconds. I actually make it a practice to run my car til its completely out of gas. After it dies, I usually restart it for a few more seconds to burn off any remaining fuel left in the engine...then it goes on it's shelf w/ a few drops of after-run oil til the next time I run it.

[rodf911]

As anyone used the optional graphite shocks for the super nitro rally that HPI sells. I'm thinking of purchasing them, but am wondering whether I can use the shorter shocks with them (particularly the ones used for the super nitro).

According to tower hobbies the front should accept these shorter shocks but there is no indication for the rear. Strangely, I cannot find this these parts in HPI's website.

Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAWK9&P=K
Rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAWL0&P=V

Thanks!

[CrackerGee]

I am using a Nitro 3 (rs4-3 ss) front shock tower w/ touring car shocks and on the rear, I am running shorter stock shocks w shorter pistons in them. My car never sees the offroad...and I got it riding about 7mm off the ground.

BTW, after trying/testing several different 2 speed gear combos, I would say the 15/21 clutch bell along w 49/43 spurs is still the hot set up. Lots of take off w balastic top speed!!!:eek: just my 2 cents:D

[rodf911]

I've modified mine for on road as well. It actually handles a lot better. All I did for now was put fuel tubing in the shock shaft to lower the car and changed the shock oil and springs. Eventually, I want to change the shock towers and use shorter shocks.

What shock tower did you say you use for the rear? Is it the stock one, but with shorter shocks?

Thanks for the info. regarding two speed. I'm planning on getting one as well.

What body do you use? Did you have problems with mounting them with the different shock tower?

Thanks!

I used to post in the HPI forum as well when it was up. Too bad it's no longer the way it was!

[agricus]

Originally posted by BLiND
I use RC10GT shocks on my SNR, they fit and work MUCH better than the stock ones also IMO.

plus, since people part out RC10GT's all the time on eBay, I got the set brand new for $20 shipped.

I got the same one from ebay...but for the life of me I can figure out how to put bushing on the RC10GT shocks. The set only came with the bushings for the lower screw on mount, but it's to small to fit on the HPI. The HPI bushing seems to fit the lower screw on shock mount...but too big for the shock caps. Any suggestions?:mad:

[highflyin]

I just got the snrs4 rally. It is a well built car but it dosnt go that fast. I think it needs a bigger clutchbell.

[agricus]

Hi I found a great article here about the math of Gear ratio.

Does anyone know how to calculate trasmission ratio on the SNR? in the formula it says diff gear / top shaft gear

I know i have a 38T diff gear

[rodf911]

Originally posted by highflyin
I just got the snrs4 rally. It is a well built car but it dosnt go that fast. I think it needs a bigger clutchbell.

The SNR shares a lot of parts and setup as the Nitro MT, even the gearing, and it is optimized for the MT which has bigger wheels.

Yes a bigger clutchbell will make it go faster. I have a 15 tooth on mine. But when it comes time to rebuild the engine, don't bother and just get a more powerful one and you'll see it come to life.

[Mika]

wrong topic sorry guys (post removed)

[H-Trainer]

Hello

I've just read the whole thread and recognized some names from various other forums. Nice to see ya around :)

No upper deck will prevent the engine from moving, only a stronger chassis will. Even with two stock chassis on top of each other, my gear mesh is inconsistent. Only with my home-made 3mm chassis, the engine doesn't move.

I've just finished two reworked speed charts for the SNR. They take the final ratio and tire size into account, but engine revs (32'000RPM/33'000RPM) are given.

H-Trainer's RC Modeling Website - SNR Speed Charts (http://www.h-trainer.ch.vu/hp_modifikationen_e.html)

Besides that, you can find the "European SNR Thread" on the homepage.

[SN VipeR]

Hi SNR Guys! Here's mine:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/snrpb1.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/snrpb3.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/title.jpg

If you want to see or read more of it and see some cool videos, visit my website: www.snviper.ch.vu

[agricus]

I am interesting on convert my SNR for On-road use.

I currently have the HPI graphite shock towers which should be able to work with shorter shocks.

and I had an used 2 speed tranney i got off from ebay.

My question is if i use the HPI thread shocks for Pro 3 whould it work, its 50-55mm. HPI part number is 72423

by the way, this is a newbie question. I see some people put wire ties on the heat sink why is that?

[SN VipeR]

Yes these shocks should work. The zipties on the head are to prevent it from scratching when the car flips over.

Check my site for more on-road SNR pics. I've also got older ones, where it's more in a stock status giving you some more impressions of the conversion.

[agricus]

About the two speed tranny, How do i know the gear is shift?

is there any audio queue like in cars? or only visual difference

because i hold them car up and give it full throttle for a short period of time i didn't notice any audio differences

[microrcdude]

Jeez, that's a nice looking car! What chassis is it?? how much $ have you spent souping it up??

[Irish Pride]

IS there any big block engine that would mount in the SNR? Or what kind of top end speed would a .18 engine bring? Can anyone make recommendations for either type of motor? I am currently running a OS 15cv-r and want some more speed!!!

[microrcdude]

you could change the pipe. You could also take apart your engine and clean it out. You can change the air filter, too. And the heat sink head. Change the feul tubing to some new tubing.

[Fidelio]

has anyone found a clutchbell that fits and works that uses real bearings and not the plastic pin rollers?

my SNR has been sitting for prolly 8 months while I was racing my 1/8th scale buggy and i finally got a new engine for it but now i'm remembering some of the things i wanted to do to it before i put it down.

one of those is find a better clutch bell than hpi's. any pointers on better clutch bells that use real bearings would be greatly appreciated.

:)

[agricus]

Originally posted by Fidelio
has anyone found a clutchbell that fits and works that uses real bearings and not the plastic pin rollers?

my SNR has been sitting for prolly 8 months while I was racing my 1/8th scale buggy and i finally got a new engine for it but now i'm remembering some of the things i wanted to do to it before i put it down.

one of those is find a better clutch bell than hpi's. any pointers on better clutch bells that use real bearings would be greatly appreciated.

:)

Don't know if this help, I am using a 2 speed clutchbell from HPI on my SNR. It came with 2 metal bushing. I went ahead and change those two metal bushing to 2 bearings of the same size. Maybe you can get the bearings 2 or 3 to make up for the length of the plastic pin type. Bear in mind it works for me on replacing those metal bushings. I didn't try to replace the plastic pin roller. But I think it should work.

[Landmax2B]

Viper, how was the fit on the Aluminum Gearboxes? Did everything fit well and seat correctly?

Building a Nitro, and I am basically replacing every part on the chassis with a companies part made of titanium, aluminum, or something I'll CNC myself.

How has the drivetrain held up with the .21 power?

Thanks

[H-Trainer]

Originally posted by Fidelio
has anyone found a clutchbell that fits and works that uses real bearings and not the plastic pin rollers? ...

Has it ever occured to you that the clutch bell from your 1/8 buggy may fit the SNR?
The threaded 2-speed clutch bell for the Nitro 3 uses 5|10mm bearings as well. With a clutch bell guide (from Kyosho or Ofna shim kit), you can use three bearings.

I highly recommend expensive metal-shielded bearings for the CB. On my 1/8 buggy, the 1$ Duracrap bearings broke every other tank. A set of good 3$ bearings may last a whole season.

Landmax2B, I would like to see the parts you've machined. I've made some parts on manual machinery myself.
Are you trying to build a tank with twice the weight of the stock car?

BTW, SN VipeR has broken/worn several sets of HD gears. Being easy on the throttle is essential when driving a .21 Super.

[Fidelio]

yeah H-Trainer i was going to look into that today but if my memory is correct the 1/8th scale one is bigger although i haven't measured them or put them side by side yet.

[Landmax2B]

Originally posted by H-Trainer


Landmax2B, I would like to see the parts you've machined. I've made some parts on manual machinery myself.
Are you trying to build a tank with twice the weight of the stock car?

I have not made any parts yet, but it would for sure be lighter, stronger and be able to handle a lot more then the standard LM2 parts, thats for sure. I have access to some of the greatest machines around, as well as a concentration in manufacturing at one of the best engineering schools, so I think I can handle it, hehe :)

But I think I might just skip r/c projects all together and stay with real cars. I keep having this debate but it keeps getting proven to be a waste of time really.

But we'll see summer is still a bit away. but I got a racecar to maintain and event costs, slicks, parts, etc, so r/c is prob out of the question money and time wise.

[Fidelio]

the 1/8th scale clutch bell wouldn't work w/o modifications. it's too tall.

i just picked up a new hpi one and some 5x8mm flanged bearings and will see how that goes.

[SN VipeR]

Originally posted by Landmax2B
Viper, how was the fit on the Aluminum Gearboxes? Did everything fit well and seat correctly?


The fit was good but not perfect. It aligns perfectly with the screw holes and everything but the diff still had too much play. I fixed this by making the diff a bit wider using a sort of washer between diff case and crown gear made out of thin sealing "paper". Up until now it's held up fine.
I broke 1 set of final gears because the diff had axial play caused by worn/warped plastic gearboxes.

The front diff is stock and has held up ever since. On-road and rally cars do not put a lot of stress on the front drivetrain it seems.

PS: Check out my new Buggy Video on my site (http://www.snviper.ch.vu).

[microrcdude]

where do you get your graphite from, SN VipeR??
I love your SN.

[Mika]

Originally posted by Irish Pride
IS there any big block engine that would mount in the SNR? Or what kind of top end speed would a .18 engine bring? Can anyone make recommendations for either type of motor? I am currently running a OS 15cv-r and want some more speed!!!

Oh, CV-R isn't enough? Maybe it's because of the molded pipe?

I'm getting EPIC 18 for my SNR. Do think the car can handle that 1,8HP power ? Hope it will.

What about the pipe? I would like to switch to better one but I don't want to get the expensive HPI. What's a good pipe for a .18? I will have the HPI black alum header (Nitro3) for the SNR.

[Mika]

Got the car ready

[harley1874666]

here's my latest money pit (h-trainer, iced-nmt, and sn-viper helped out a lot on it)

it's got an extended chassis that makes it an inch longer than the stock chassis.

[Mika]

OH MAN, AWESOME CAR! With the Epic .18 engine this car really goes WRC style. Grrreat!

[RallyRac3r]

About the two speed tranny, How do i know the gear is shift?

is there any audio queue like in cars? or only visual difference

because i hold them car up and give it full throttle for a short period of time i didn't notice any audio differences

You can hear it, it sounds like a car in real life, the revs will drop a little because there is a new load on the engine. Vizually, on mine mine really starts movin in second gear! I wouldn't hold the car in the air full throttle, dunno if it will hurt it but i would think that it wouldnt get any cooling and maybe even over rev with no load. But it should shift easier in the air. Turn the set screw in there 1-2 turns if its not even shifting...Wonder y they had it on ebay (wasn't workin for em)


-----------------------
About the Epic .18..
I was also lookin into this engine. Its a really awesome price for so much power. But i have enough trouble with my crappy stock engine. The chassis flexes so much i shred gears all the time. If you have this problem too heres a site i foudn with hardened metal ones Here (http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm) i emailed him , theyre $24.99 each and liek $4-$5 shipping i think.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/gear01.jpg

-----------------------
I use mine for on and offroad use, i liek on road more at the moment because the chassis is way to loose for offroad use. Not only that i wore my rally tires bald on the road, now all they do is spin, good for power slidin or drifting tho! :) I got soft slicks now that hook up pretty good, barely any wheel spin even with a .12 cvrx (my friends)
-----------------------
heres my SNR, i jsut got it for christmas, i will hop it up once the part breaks i guess
:D


http://www.gamingplus.org/outwardepot/ebay/SNR.jpg

----------------------
Anyone know a good site for aluminum parts, www.hobbyetc.com is a bit expensive comapred to ebay, but i want a site where they got everything and cheap too. :D

[Mika]

Thanks for the info!

I haven't got any problem yet with EPIC or gears, I have carbon top deck, carbon shock towers and slipper clutch. No flex there. But I'll look into those steel gears.

Thanks,
-mika

[microrcdude]

RallyRac3r: I think the CF upper deck or racing chassis should fix your problem.

[RallyRac3r]

The Super Nitro Rally, however, is way undergeared and tops out at 25 with the stock gearing. With a slipper clutch (so you can use the smaller two-speed spur gears), a 46T spur, an 18T clutchbell (get the 13/18 and cut off the 13 with a Dremel), and a good engine your SNR will hit about 45. With the two-speed and the appropriate gears it will hit 50.




Can i use a 13/18 and keep the 13 and have the 2 speed on there... and get a 46 and a.... 41?

[RallyRac3r]

RallyRac3r: I think the CF upper deck or racing chassis should fix your problem.


i recently got a 3.2 mm light weight aluminum chassi and screws off ebay for $31 ;) ... 39.99 with shipping. and do you have a link for the CF top deck, i can only find a CD top deck frame...eaing it still has the removable radio tray feature... or is this what your talking about

http://www.chaseimports.com/cty300/gmnmtchassis2.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3187197943&category=44015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT&rd=1 < im kfx400913 on ebay :)

[Mika]

Got a new OS pipe, but better yet Proline Dirt Hawg tires, those are excellent. The car is really much better with those. The wear of those tires is minimal compared to stock ones.

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/SNR/new_pipe.jpg

[piecemealBHC]

Lets say theorhetically that I'd like to get some rims for the SNR that require a 14mm hex drive... as long as I get the larger hex's can I run those? Or will they be wobbling all over the place?

[Kenny T]

It should work. Why would they wobble if you've got the correct hexes? Are you going for the WPR 1/8th hexes?

[piecemealBHC]

I was under the assumption that the bigger hex drives were designed for a larger axle and didn't know if the SNR axles would be swimming in them...

[Tim'sLosi]

Just got a Super Rally used...Love it! It is so nice and simple to run in stock trim I am tempted to leave it stock. That would be a first for me! Thought I would bring this thread back from the dead and see if anyone else is enjoying their SNR!

[MT2 owns you]

so there is a SNR thread. cool. well before i go out an order one i needa know about how much they cost..so..that being said..how much are they? i want one of these really bad but i only have so much money. thanks

[Tim'sLosi]

They go pretty cheap used. I bought this one for $150 shipped, no electronics. I had it ready to go the same night I got it (last night) but had to wait until this afternoon to run it. I was impressed how well it tore through the yard...almost as well as my AD1 Losi. Neat looking Imprezza body, the guy spent a lot of hours on it. I really want to get my ramps out and see how it jumps! Better get a pit box together for it first! I may lock the rear diff to get a better oversteer slide. Definately could use higher gearing or engine with higher rpm and more power.

[MT2 owns you]

$150 i can definitly spare. now you said that was for a used one..how much for a new one? it is much easier for me to just buy one new because i have no way of getting a used one (not allowed/cant buy online). thanks.

[leoboy254]

if the car is that cheap to get, i'll get it. can the car go off jumps because it kind of looks like a mt2. also isn't the car basicaly a buggy with a oversized body to cover the open wheels

[Tim'sLosi]

if the car is that cheap to get, i'll get it. can the car go off jumps because it kind of looks like a mt2. also isn't the car basicaly a buggy with a oversized body to cover the open wheels
It is a nitro mt with shorter arms and different body mounts. It has gearing to suit it's smaller tires. The body looks like a 200mm touring car only bigger...they call it Super 10. I haven't jumped it yet but it will take it. I want to get the foam bumper and install a 12rxs engine. Almost all NMT hop-ups work on this.

[thekiltedskier]

Hey guys, just picked up a SNR shelf queen! But it's set for a life of dirt & abuse lol! Can anyone reccomend some nice replacement engines and also details of the stiffer chasis/top deck please. How much flex??!!

Any help much appreciated (couple of years with a savage). I have 2 Kyosho Lancia Delta Integrale bodies ready to paint so it's going to look pretty good!

Cheers

Gus

[MT2 owns you]

an OS .18 cvrx would be good. abouy 1.5hp, and only 100 bucks. i have it and it is easily the best engine ive ever had. ever.

[sasonrally]

I agree with MT2.

I've had my rally for like 4 years. I only use OS 15 or 18 CVR-x engines. They run great.

I never really super upgraded it 'cause it was just a fun car to bash with around parking lots and grassy areas.

I still love it.

[thekiltedskier]

Thanks guys, ended up with a Ho Bao Hyper 15, just about finished running it in. It'll do for now! Are the SNR/MT chasis the same as the MT2? All this flex is annoying me. And who designed that linkage - anyone got a good mod to sort it out?

[harley1874666]

the chassis are not the same.

as far as the linkage goes i have no idea. i've never seen a nmt2's linkage up close.

[MT2 owns you]

as far as the chassis goes, harley is right they arent the same but you can always get a Ti chassis from f4iracing.com also which linkage are you talking about? the SNR/NMT throttle linkage? if its the same as the mt2, i dont see whats bad about it, its not fantastic, but it works and its not horrible. what exactly do you not like about it?

[Tim'sLosi]

This is what I use for mine...

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#sliderotary

[thekiltedskier]

The throttle linkage is pants! it's either pulling the engine about (weak chasis) or it trundles away no matter what you do to the linkage/idle settings. It's even worse than the savage linkage! I'll have a look at the Ti chasis, thanks for the link. Tim, some fantastic info there, that's the linkage set up I was looking for, did similar to the savage ages ago but wasn't sure how to set up the SNR.

Didn't realise the NMT & NMT2 chasis plates were different.

[MT2 owns you]

they arent much different, just thickness (stock mt2 chassis is 2.5mm, nmt is 2mm, etc. the nmt/snr chassis is one step behind) its just that some of the mounting holes are different.

[thekiltedskier]

The power racing bits are GPM are they? same as UK we have a ditributor that calls them Mllenium Fastrax but it's the same stuff.

[Tim'sLosi]

The throttle linkage is pants!

First time I have heard that one! Glad I could help on the linkage. Fun little car the SNR.
Check out a Hardcore MT chassis here... http://www.racinghardcore.com/product/hpi/mt/0130/

[thekiltedskier]

LOL Scottish term! Slightly more polite than the usual "It's a pile of Sh*te!" (Don't forget that e!)

Yeah the SNR is a cracking car, I've been looking for a "super 1/10" scale chasis for a while, picked up 2 Lancia Delta Integrale bodyshells from ebay Australia ages ago, need to get them painted up & ready to go for some full on SEGA RALLY action! Thanks for the chasis link

[Tim'sLosi]

LOL Scottish term! Slightly more polite than the usual "It's a pile of Sh*te!" (Don't forget that e!)

Yeah the SNR is a cracking car, I've been looking for a "super 1/10" scale chasis for a while, picked up 2 Lancia Delta Integrale bodyshells from ebay Australia ages ago, need to get them painted up & ready to go for some full on SEGA RALLY action! Thanks for the chasis link


I figured as much!

My LHS has a used SNR with a Mitsu body on it for sale for $150 rtr. If I had spare cash I would get it for my son to run against mine. The guy made a cool a-pillar snorkel for it.

[C0NTENDER]

I figured as much!

My LHS has a used SNR with a Mitsu body on it for sale for $150 rtr. If I had spare cash I would get it for my son to run against mine. The guy made a cool a-pillar snorkel for it.

did someone say snorkel :)

http://www.uuworld.net/~reub/sub1.jpg



I have finally decided to let this body go, unfortantly, we don't have anyone local who runs the Super Rally class. I might try ebay.

[Tim'sLosi]

Sh*te...That body is KILTZ! That is exactly what I was talking about but yours is done much neater. What would you want fer it?

[thekiltedskier]

That is absolutley stunning, any more photos?

[C0NTENDER]

Sh*te...That body is KILTZ! That is exactly what I was talking about but yours is done much neater. What would you want fer it?

Just left you a PM with more pictures.

[dolphinchamp32]

hey how fast will the new hpi rsf 3 evo hit?

[sebbi]

Hi I have recently bought a RS4 super nitro rally second hand off ebay. The motor that came with it is no good so I'm getting a novarossi .12 for it. Parts I've ordered include 2 speed transmission,tune pipe and perfromance airfilter. What could I do to this car to attain maximum speedsand how fast can I expectit to go?

[dolphinchamp32]

sorry i meant the hpi nitro rs4 3 evo

[C0NTENDER]

For you Rally Guys:

Subaru Impreza (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=205755)

[harley1874666]

nice work on the shell.

[vipkat]

Newbie here, got my hands on a RS4 Rally sans motor. Besides the .15 Nitro star fe, what other motors from hpi or others will drop in? Help is appreciated.

[thekiltedskier]

Hi there,

Any small block .15/.18 engine will go in. Only the hpi ones have the direct mount, otherwise you'll need an engine mount as well. A lot of the folk here recomend the OS engines - have a read through this thread & you'll find LOTS of answers to your query.

All the Best,

Gus

[vipkat]

Well thanks for the reply, I didnt see an answer in here but im sure its been discussed. The car appears quite low. Besides messing with shock towers, or longer shocks, whats the tallest set of tyres that will raise ground clearance a bit but still allow the car to handle and look like a rally car?

[thekiltedskier]

Proline Dirt Hawgs - the ones for a 1/10 buggy are not as wide as the ones for the staduim type truck (MT2 etc). See page 8 for a photo. I've been using these, only comment is they raise the C.O.G. and you need to raise the body shell a bit to stop them hitting it. I'm still hunting for the perfect tyre, something in between the original and the dirt hawg in terms of height. Road hawgs look like a possibility but no UK stock at the mo.

Cheers

Gus

[thekiltedskier]

I've got the dirt hawgs from the rear of a buggy but they also do a front fit, a bit narrower and I might give those a try as well.

[vipkat]

those look great, much better clearance. So u say use rears for the front too or use front and rears?

[thekiltedskier]

At the moment I have the rear buggy dirt hawg on the front & rear but still quite wide. I might try the front (buggy) tyre on the front & rear of the SNR - not as wide but still high profile. That's for all round use but my worn out original rally tyres drift quie well now - they are BALD!

[modojojo]

Hey all, I'm a newbie and after extensive research I've decided the SNR Is the car for me. I just found a brand new escudo SNR on ebay minus the .15 engine. The seller said he said he sold It out of the box. I won the auction. So I got a O.S. 18cv-rx, HPI Nitro RS4 MT Purple Anodized Aluminum Threaded shocks front and rear. Team Associated High RPM Blue Anodized Side Exhaust Tuned Pipe, Traxxas Aluminum Exhaust Header Blue. Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter Blue, HPI silicone Exhaust Coupling 12x18x30mm Purple. extra set of star wheels. A set of HpI s compound rally tires and a set of m compound racing slicks. powerline radio tray, and a O.S. super 203 air filter and a subaru impreza body. I plan on buying a racing clutch and a 2 speed tranny. My question s are what's the best gearing to get, also I'm looking for titanium parts such as turnbuckles and or aluminum shock towers. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Mika]

Hi
in my opinion the car it is as it's best with GT-one body and with single speed (!) With .18 engine single speed is enough to have fun driving and easy to maintain
Have fun
Mika

[Bluntpuffz]

whats the diffrence between rs4 3 and rs4 3 rally

[Mika]

Sorry in my earlier post I didn't realize this is the SNR rally forum. But anyway, single speed with slipper clutch is good for the rally.
Main difference between regular and rally versions that regular are belt driven whereas rallies are shaft drive.

[Tim'sLosi]

I actually enjoy mine with the 15fe. It is so realistic in the way it power slides and it starts every time. It's the car I go to when nothing else seems to be working right ;)

[modojojo]

okay, according to you guy's and me being a noob, I'll stick to a single speed tranny.what's the difference between a slipper clutch and a racing clutch? Is one better than the other? Also what gearing should I get to have the best speed without mashing up the gears by the 3rd run.

[Tim'sLosi]

Slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip in relation to the trans and engine. Protects the drivetrain from too much stress
Racing clutch is inside the clutch bell and allows the engine to idle.

[P90Puma]

Not to threadjack, but if anyone has one for sale could they please email me @ Puma1337@gmail.com thanks.

Quick question, which bodies work with the SNR other than the HPI 280/300mm bodies. Thanks.

[gigacrush]

bluntpuffz the difference is the sus arms are a tad longer and the the shocks and drive shafts also are longer.diff sus towers. ive done the conversion but off road the rs4 has a horible time with the gears on the 2 speed not being shreded

[sybtheone]

Hey guys, my first post to the forum so be gentle =) I was delighted to find an HPI SNR under my Christmas tree this year. It's the first nitro kit I've worked on in almost seven years, and it felt great to be back into the hobby.

Unfortunently, I'm having some issues getting my throttle/brake linkage setup correctly. I'm going to do the best that I can describing the problem, and if I don't make it clear enough, I'll post again with some pictures illustrating my problem.

The issue is that when I apply the brake, and then let off the trigger to the 'nuetral' position, my throttle servo arm position has been pushed forward so that I no longer have an idle position, and at the nuetral trigger position my carb is now open about half way. More precisely, when I apply and then let off the brake and the bottom brake servo arm returns to center, it pushes the throttle servo arm forward some. I've taken apart and rebuilt precisely according to the instructions the throttle linkage on the servo a hundred times and I just don't understand how it's supposed to work. Should the bottom brake servo arm be moving independently of the upper throttle servo arm? At the moment it 'interferes' with the throttle arm position when I let off the brake. :(

Hopefully this makes sense to someone and hopefully that person has an idea as to what I can do to fix this issue. Thanks!



Hello i have a SNR that i put a O.S. 18 cv-rx with slide valve carb wich is way better and 18t clutch bell and 52t spur gear also with racing clutch dynamite racing exhaust with header and what ive done is this i modified to make dual disk brakes which i made a custom rod out of an old sway bay cause they are strong and will never brake and added a spring for the throttle linkage to allow the brakes to work with the slide carb everything works way better than stock with plenty of torque off the line and i have a top speed of 72mph still trying for 75mph ill post some pics so you can see what it looks like with the linkages and if u have a problem with the front dog bones falling out i have a fix for that also u can buy nitro rush differential shafts (hpi part # A558) they are about 1/8" longer than stock and allow more travel without letting dogbones slip out any questions email me at ltktheone@comcast.net

[sybtheone]

Does anyone know if these will work in the rear. My SNR has them in the front, the back (black) one are worn out. These are so much tougher, but they are longer so not sure if they will work?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXWC17

Dan



I only recomend using the rush out drives on the from as it fixxes the dogbones from falling out when wheels are turned to far but for the rear stay with the stock as for they are too long for when u land a jump or and severe bumps they will break trust me ive replaced the rear a few times before i figured out what was going on and went back to stock ........in short i recomend front / rush out drives - rear / stock out drives

[rs43]

Is there any way of converting a rs4 3 evo road car to the rally version? if so how is it done?.

thanks.

[Mika]

this a topic for Super Nitros, not for the regular 1/10, so you might ask in the rs4 rally forum

[rs4 rally boi]

Is there any way of converting a rs4 3 evo road car to the rally version? if so how is it done?.

thanks.
check out my rs4 3 rally project on drc rally (http://drccentral.com/yabb/YaBB.pl)

[quickta]

just picked up this super nitro rs4 rally from ebay, the engine is locked up, going to try to fix it, the person said it was a 18ss, does that look right

[Old_School_RC_1]

It may be, but with a different cooling head. Have an 18SS in mine, though the head is smaller and black. It's defintely not the stock motor.

I see swaybars and the lightweight flywheel as well. (jealous over the swaybars....been looking for a set forever)

Great car, you won't be disappointed. Welcome to the super scale club.

[quickta]

thanks Old_School_RC_1, took the engine apart and got it freed up, hopefully it will be okay, what kind of shocks would you suggest

[Old_School_RC_1]

Can't say, I've rebuilt the stockers when I got mine and they work fine for me. They are a bit of an odd size if i remember correctly, but not outside the norm. Just measure eye to eye both extended and compressed and you'll find a ton that fit.

Spent that money on a 2 speed tranny, CV's and a front 1-way instead :) Well worth it.

[quickta]

do you know a company that still sells the 2 speed tranny , CV's , front 1-way,

[Old_School_RC_1]

HPI sells them all. The MT2 chassis is nearly identical and several of the option parts fit. Plus, the front, center and rear diff assemblies are the same as the RS4 Evo so certain parts are exchangable there as well.

The 2 speed from the MT2 works, and is the same really as the RS4 Evo, just with different gears. Might have to play with the gearing a bit, I used a larger clutch bell gear set to make up for the smaller wheels.

The CV's for the center were from the MT1....not sure if the MT2's are a direct fit or not. Should be, but I cannot say for certain. The wheel CV's were for the super nitro, and they are out of production. Can be found on Ebay every now and again.

Just got the one-way, it's an RS4 Evo option part. I do have to change the ring and pininons over though, the gearing is slightly different on the Evo. Just have to swap on the stock rally gears.

Between the clutch bells, optional 2 speed gears, and different ring and pinion ratios, and general parts compatability with other platforms there's a lot tinkering you can do with this car.

I'm debating setting mine up for on-road only, the Evo's shock towers are a direct fit. Would make a nice spiritual successor to the Super-10/FW04 series.

[quickta]

thanks for the infor., probably will send you a pm before ordering anything, just to make sure it is correct and will fit, thanks again

[quickta]

found this two speed on ebay, do you this will work, hpi 86038 http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-86038-2-Speed-Transmission-Nitro-RS4-3-EVO-18SS-/330459425108?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories

[quickta]

also just picked up some front and rear axles on ebay(a521 & a522)

[Old_School_RC_1]

2 speed will drop right in, though you may have to find some smaller clutch bell gears to compensate for the larger wheels of the SNR. Will certainly work though.

[SuperNitro2010]

found this two speed on ebay, do you this will work, hpi 86038 http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-86038-2-Speed-Transmission-Nitro-RS4-3-EVO-18SS-/330459425108?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories

Say again for the slow folks (like me) out there. This 2 speed will work on the Super Rally and Super Nitro chassis'??

Thanks,
SN2010

[Old_School_RC_1]

SN Rally, yes - but NOT the belt driven Super Nitro. Totally different set up.

[SuperNitro2010]

SN Rally, yes - but NOT the belt driven Super Nitro. Totally different set up.

Oh... Super Rally. Thanks for clarifying! I have both, but I haven't compared them yet. I guess I really am slow! :D

SN2010

[SuperNitro2010]

I just remembered that SN Rally's engine is longitudinally mounted, while the SN RS4's engine is transversely mounted. Ok, I got it now!

[quickta]

just picked up both center cv's on ebay (HPI 72082 & 72083), I guess I will need to get a pipe for the exhaust and a two speed, found a header in my spare parts , so that is one thing I don't have to find or buy

[quickta]

is there anyway to get rid of the rotary start on the engine, i will just use my starter box

[Old_School_RC_1]

You'll have to track down a new crank and backplate. I'm not sure of the part numbers though. I'm a pull start guy myself.