Schumacher Nitro 21 Xtr Desert Storm

[carerra]

running car on cricket field....all ok, untill car stops and engine revs freely with no car movement...turns out the whisper gear has twisted off it's needle roller and come completely off it's shaft :( :(

[_Burn0ut_]

I broke something for the first time on my xt-r3e, the rear a-arms broke when i landed a jump wrong, ill have to take the wheelie bar off when jumping as it doesn land to well. I was just wondering how much the stock rear arms cost and if its worth getting the alum ones? how much do these cost?

thanks

[roeler]

carerra, ive had that problem 4 times in a row, and now im waiting for the new gear (ordered @ my lhs but the lhs is on a 2 week holiday) and then i'll probably sell it and stay with mi onroader, because i have a lot of costs with the xtr.
i just want to keep one so i can put all my money in that one.
i had a great time with my xtr but also had alot of troubles, also my dad wants me to sell it cuz of the troubles.
if i have to sell, i'll buy an honda dax instead... :D

greetz

ps: someone interested in a used xtr with some hopups and extras??

[carerra]

roeler....whats a Honda Dax???

you've had the same problem 4 times??? what kinda surface were you running on??? have you told schumacher about it?? i sent them an e-mail today with some more pics in it....wait and see if i get any sort of response back from them....i can understand parts breaking from crashes...etc but to have the gear wrench off from normal driving is just crazy!!!


Burnout.....the standard rear wishbones cost about £7 whilst the alloy ones weigh in at a hefty £30...worth it if you tend to brake the OE ones alot. i still got the original rears, not breakage or damage yet, though i may consider getting alloy fronts as i've already snapped one clean in half after a fight with a curb!!!

[Chestnut]

:cool: Have been making some good runs with my XTR , and I have found that after a long run the Alloy Diff Outputs are way too hot to touch. Any one else having this problem ? I know it won't last lone doing this. :mad:

[ohyeahbaby]

I got the original diff outputs and after each time i run it they are boiling, im not actualyy sure that i will damage them will it?

I have run atleast 2 gallons through my car and no sign of diff probs, havent even needed to tighten.

If anyone knows of a problem extremely hot diffs may cause please tell me so i can hopefully correct it.

[Hoke]

I have also had the problem with hot diff outputs. I had to change to the alloy ones after the original melted into the ball bearings and made them unusable. The alloy ones also get hot but atleast now nothing melts.

[carerra]

no meltage on mine but changed to the alloy ones as i had my diff in pieces anyway....next time i'll add some tungsten carbide balls...

[roeler]

i drive on some little dirt hills with flat areas between them, but the strange thing is...

i can stop an a 30 degree steep hill and hit full power and nothing will happen, but when i drive at half throttle on the flat area it happens, never had it when i go up or down with my car, always on high speed runs


a honda dax is something like...

this
http://home2.planetinternet.be/knarfje1/images/Koopjes/daxblau.jpg

or if it doesnt work to show it on the board, here is the link

this (http://home2.planetinternet.be/knarfje1/images/Koopjes/daxblau.jpg)

[_Burn0ut_]

LOL, kool, is it a mini bike as it looks like one.

Im gonna order the stock a arms but if i break them again ill get the alloy ones

[roeler]

hi i know its cooln thats why i want one ;)
its bigger then a mini bike but smaller then a normal one :)
but they are really tuneable... :D

[xtr21]

Hi guys,
update from this weekends "xtreme racers" meeting.
Fitted the two Fusion tanks and exhaust header - also junked the K&N in favour of the original kit air filter.......What a difference !!!!! She's got the bite back and hangs on in second now without that bogging down I was experiencing. We found a new venue too with a smooth tarmac surface and the fastest sweeping bend we've ever raced on. Unfortunately, those nasty kerbs are ever present and the racing is intense to say the least !!! Four cars were involved in shunts so serious that they totally screwed the chassis's and one car even launched backwards into a lamppost !!! Pictures will be published on www.xtrracers.co.uk in the next 48hrs so check out the "Damage Zone" later in the week.
Disappointed to say that the "Chalk Pit Racers" were a no-show this week though.......sort it out shadgrind we miss you guys !!!!
Oh, and one of the four casualties was mine as the front got completely ripped of in a flat out "racing incident" - even smashed one of my new tanks !!!!!!!!!!!!
:mad:
Catch you soon.......check the site !!!!!

[carerra]

Originally posted by xtr21
Hi guys,
update from this weekends "xtreme racers" meeting.
Fitted the two Fusion tanks and exhaust header - also junked the K&N in favour of the original kit air filter.......What a difference !!!!! She's got the bite back and hangs on in second now without that bogging down I was experiencing. We found a new venue too with a smooth tarmac surface and the fastest sweeping bend we've ever raced on. Unfortunately, those nasty kerbs are ever present and the racing is intense to say the least !!! Four cars were involved in shunts so serious that they totally screwed the chassis's and one car even launched backwards into a lamppost !!! Pictures will be published on www.xtrracers.co.uk in the next 48hrs so check out the "Damage Zone" later in the week.
Disappointed to say that the "Chalk Pit Racers" were a no-show this week though.......sort it out shadgrind we miss you guys !!!!
Oh, and one of the four casualties was mine as the front got completely ripped of in a flat out "racing incident" - even smashed one of my new tanks !!!!!!!!!!!!
:mad:
Catch you soon.......check the site !!!!!


you reckon that having the k&n is a disadvantage????

what kinda speeds you talkin 'bout in your crashes??? i gather they weren't 5mph fender benders!!!

[xtr21]

Hi Carerra,
Regarding the K&N........I wouldn't have expected the filter to be a disadvantage, but the car runs better back on the standard filter so it's had it's day as far as I'm concerned. Interestingly, it appears that I'm not alone in reverting back, as a couple of the other xtr racers have also done the same. I'm going to take the one off the Big 6 as well to see if that makes any difference - should be interesting 'cos the "6" is flying at the moment anyway. As you suspected, the crashes were more than "5mph fender benders" - a full story and pictures can be found on the site (Damage Zone and Latest News sections) so I will be rebuilding a new car as soon as the chassis arrives from the CNC operators. It will feature the twin Fusion tanks (with pressure nipple mods) the Fusion exhaust header, and Big 6 silencer. I'll post an image when it's done. Our new track has a wicked surface and a superb sweeping bend which you can really hammer out of, but does suffer from the presence of roadside kerbs which have to be skillfully avoided at all costs !!!!! We'll feature it fully on the website in the next couple of weeks so keep checking www.xtrracers.co.uk - they'll also be some new video footage as soon as the editing is done...................
AND PLEASE VOTE FOR US SO WE CAN CATCH UP SHADGRIND'S NITROCRAZY SITE.....................

[carerra]

haha...damage doesn't look that bad.........bit of spit 'n' polish will have 'um all lookin good as new.....just some (in the words of alan partridge) superficial damage.......:D :D

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by TKGSuperFan
Hi Shadgrind,
If possible I would like to have you post 2 pics of mine on you site)

For the moment I will take just one but the site is having MAJOR work done behind the scenes at the moment and soon you will be able to post your own images up plus loads more. We are going interactive, until then though I have to do it all by hand! www.nitrocrazy.com the craziest fastest XTR off roaders on this planet or any other! Another go faster tip, the big 6 exhaust makes an XTR faster, yeah baby and then some! Having said that am getting a Cvec pipe soon and then it will go ballistic I am sure :-)

Ffternoon to those stateside, and to those in England "Go to bed it's a school day tommorow you know!" :eek:

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
ok...quick question....for real short grass - cricket pitch - which is gonna be a better rear tyre: Vee 2's or Stagger Ribs???

Quick reply, stagger ribs give greater grip end of story, just switched myself on the back, some say they grip too much meaning you roll rather than powerslide but I think if your suspension is set right grip is ALL!!!

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
i think the 10 is the nitro content and the 16 is the oil content.....though i'm not certain.....

as for the difference between blue thunder and dynaglow....i thing it's personal preference....from apexmodels a gallon of each costs the same....i use dynaglow and works fine for me.

Yeah the number refer to nitro content I run Blue Thunder 20 as do a fair few of us now, your car goes faster and runs cooler (as methanol cools sthe engine) but it will put more stress on your engine than 10 or 16. But it goes faster! And it goes faster plus the fact your car will actually run faster also faster running can be had with 20, oh and I nearly forgot to mention that 20 percent has been known to make cars run faster or did I mention that? But if I didn't it does :D :cool: :cool: :cool: :D

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
I broke something for the first time on my xt-r3e, the rear a-arms broke when i landed a jump wrong, ill have to take the wheelie bar off when jumping as it doesn land to well. I was just wondering how much the stock rear arms cost and if its worth getting the alum ones? how much do these cost?

thanks

Last reply for the night but stock rears cost about 6GBP ally are far stronger but I have bent mine, though I have had them for a couple of months of HARS running, I have straightened the out too. The fron ally ones do not seem to bend at all as they are thicker. In the long term ally is best. One of our regulars Nick boke two rears in a night once. I have been spending two nights a week and some time on both days of the weekend driving like I just stole it and still not broken an ally bone yet!!!

[carerra]

ok guys...need a little help with fitting this little baby to my XTR... http://www.conleyprecision.com/backdrop.htm .....how long do ya think the drivetrain will last????

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
ok guys...need a little help with fitting this little baby to my XTR... http://www.conleyprecision.com/backdrop.htm .....how long do ya think the drivetrain will last????

Conley 1/4 Scale "427" V-8 Engine assembled: $4495.00.
Maybe not but does look cool :-)

[_Burn0ut_]

Originally posted by Shadgrind
Last reply for the night but stock rears cost about 6GBP ally are far stronger but I have bent mine, though I have had them for a couple of months of HARS running, I have straightened the out too. The fron ally ones do not seem to bend at all as they are thicker. In the long term ally is best. One of our regulars Nick boke two rears in a night once. I have been spending two nights a week and some time on both days of the weekend driving like I just stole it and still not broken an ally bone yet!!!

Ok thanks, im gonna get the alloy ones as i do a lot of jumping and generally drive my trucks real hard.

I just upgraded my maxx to .247 and holy smokes can this thing move, i think it can give my xt-r 3e a run for its money based on acceleration.

[carerra]

anyone know a good 6v 1100mah battery pack that'll fit the xtr battery box??? will also need a decent 240v peak charger so any reccomendations would be appreciated.....


cheers

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by carerra
anyone know a good 6v 1100mah battery pack that'll fit the xtr battery box??? will also need a decent 240v peak charger so any reccomendations would be appreciated.....


cheers

First things first u want to get a NI-MH pack over a NICAD and NI-MH dont have memory lose.

You want a micropack as this will fit the battery box.

I would rccomend a team orion 6v 1100mah that cost about £20 part no. OR13010 (you should phone apex just to make sure the pack will fit the battery box as they seem to know a lot about the xtr.

As for a 240v peak charger i would reccomend the M-Troniks APC 200MD-Plus Peak charger (part no. APC200MD)

keep us posted on how the battery pack work out cause im thinkin of gettin one.

[ohyeahbaby]

oh yeah the peak charger cost £35

Can ne one tell me how much faster 2 stroke petrol cars such as the ones made by FG-Modelsport are than the xtr cause im thinkin of gettin one.

[carerra]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
oh yeah the peak charger cost £35

Can ne one tell me how much faster 2 stroke petrol cars such as the ones made by FG-Modelsport are than the xtr cause im thinkin of gettin one.

cheers for the help....

aren't 2 stroke petrols usually in large scale cars??? i have a vid of a technokit touring (1/5) with a petrol 2 stroke....from what i gather the performance appears to be either less then or equal to the xtr but not more.....picked up the vid on www.rcnitro.com ....i gather it'd be a different story for a smaller scale 2stroke petrol car tho...

[vsnakebytev]

Hey guys, I have run into a problem!!!!!!

The engine is working fine, the gears seem to be moving but it's not moving the tires... could I have done something to the diff.? Has any one else had this problem? I would like your expertise and knowledge before I dis assemble the tuck, this way it will save me some time in looking for where the problem is. What could I do to fix this so that there is less of a chance of this happening again? What other suggestions would u give me? Thank you Soo much!!!

VSnakeByteV

[_Burn0ut_]

Check the wheel hexes and driveline hexes to see if they are worn, when i lost all motion, one of the wheels hexes (take of wheel and look where it connects to the truck) had melted maybe due to my wheelspinning habits. If one wheel is imobile, the other wheels wont spin.

[carerra]

Originally posted by vsnakebytev
Hey guys, I have run into a problem!!!!!!

The engine is working fine, the gears seem to be moving but it's not moving the tires... could I have done something to the diff.? Has any one else had this problem? I would like your expertise and knowledge before I dis assemble the tuck, this way it will save me some time in looking for where the problem is. What could I do to fix this so that there is less of a chance of this happening again? What other suggestions would u give me? Thank you Soo much!!!

VSnakeByteV


ok, spur gear is turning and the diff outputs are turning then it's probably the 'hexes' as burnout mentioned....if the outputs aren't turning and the spur is turning then it's gonna be the diff.....take the wheels and axels off the rear, check the left hand axel to see if there is any screw thread poking out the hole in the diff output (only on plasitc outputs as alloy have a grub screw in this hole and a shorter diff screw).....for the diff to be at normal tightness there should be 1/2mm poking out....

try tightening the diff anyway by removing the small plastic dirt cover on the right hand diff output and turning the screw clockwise....if this doesn't help it's probably your balls which are too worn so....that means opening up the casing, removing the diff and replacing them - a good time to upgrade to the tungsten carbide ones - also you may wanna consider replacing the thrust bearing with the optional tungsten one too....

hope this helps

[_Burn0ut_]

Sorry carerra, thats the only prob have run into and havnt ever taken apart the diffs :( .

Does anybody know if Apex or anywhere else sell T-MAXX parts as well as xt-r 3e parts?

[roeler]

carrera have you found a sollution to the problem we have?? because i'll soon have my new gear and i dont want to run into the problem a fifth time.

greetz

[carerra]

Originally posted by roeler
carrera have you found a sollution to the problem we have?? because i'll soon have my new gear and i dont want to run into the problem a fifth time.

greetz


took some digital pics of the gear and sent them to schumacher...they just sent me a replacement gear- no explanation or questions - just after i bought one from apex....as i lost the needle roller at the same time i had to order some more from apex too....in the pack you get loads of different sized ones, so i used the longest, fattest one i could find that would fit in the gear slot in the hope that it would be less easy for it to twist out....

just wondering but does your car pop wheelies loads?? i never had the gear problem till i tightened my diff....my car never used to wheelie much....i'm thinking that because i had loads of traction in the cricket field where i was running it at the time - and that the engine was really on song then something in the drivetrain had to give.....perhaps if you loosened your diff a touch it may help as it would allow the diff to spin away some of the excess power....

will let ya know if i discover any other solutions as i'm currently embarking on a big modification program for my beast....lots of alloy....:D

[carerra]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
Sorry carerra, thats the only prob have run into and havnt ever taken apart the diffs :( .

Does anybody know if Apex or anywhere else sell T-MAXX parts as well as xt-r 3e parts?


Apex sell everything for the XTR-3e stuff but i'm not sure about original T-MAXX stuff though....they do appear though to stock FASTRAX aftermarket T-MAXX alloy bits though....

[roeler]

okay i'll try to losen my diff because i changed it some time ago, i'll try that

greetz
and keep us updated with your alloy plans ;)

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by roeler
okay i'll try to losen my diff because i changed it some time ago, i'll try that

greetz
and keep us updated with your alloy plans ;)

http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town/pipexdsl/o/aowp04/clutch_and_diff_fried.jpg

If you loosen your diff the internals will look like this pretty soon the part on the left is a burn out clutch, you may get on of those too, gears usually go because the tolerance between the engine and the gearbox is to loose, you hvae to loosen off the engine mounts and move it till you get a good mesh. My diff is run very very tight now and it does not harm the gears or the diff. At the very least adjust it as stated in the manual, so that when you press down on the car you can't turn the gears as the wheels lock (they will turn one way but not the other) Believe me I recon up the pit we have used about thirty yes THIRTY gearboxes between us, I run my car very hard and fast and have not had many problems recently. For more advice on Schumacher parts and upgrades see Westies review on all the hop ups on www.nitrocrazy.com coming later this week. Also see the view from the pit page on our site for the latest goings on.

By the way, I bought that adjustable CVec exhaust for my car and now it really does fly, way faster, plus the big 6 cool cylinder head means I can lean it right out. Also one of our members has bought a Marder that's a 1/5th scale buggy picture on the site, though most of the site is XTRs all the way :-0

[carerra]

Shadgrind

do ya have nice shiny Tungsten carbide balls in your diff???

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
Shadgrind

do ya have nice shiny Tungsten carbide balls in your diff???

Oh yes, the originals wear out and get very pitted in the end, even so you can still make your diff last a while if they are pitted by tightening it right up (can't you Westie;).

The only downside it seems to running the diff very tight is that it slips a lot less maybe losing a bit of traction on grippier surfaces, though we have not really noticed any difference on grass. Westies have been running fine for weeks now.

One more time you run em loose thet get hot and depending how much grease you have in the diff they will melt the diff or the driveshafts http://www.aowp04.dsl.pipex.com/images/Melted%20driveshafts.jpg

Westies melted driveshafts pic (before we tightened the diff right up. We have alloy diff outputs (standard on the 3e) if you haven't got them the outputs may melt instead of the shafts. Notice how hot they get anyway when running (just don't burn yourfingers!

[ohyeahbaby]

Where did ya get the cvec pipe from, how much did it cost and how much is the perfomance improved.

Will it fit on to the original manifold or whatever its called (the thing that comes off the engine and curls to go across the car and then connects to exhaust)

Cheers shadgrind

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
Where did ya get the cvec pipe from, how much did it cost and how much is the perfomance improved.


Yeah it fits on the original connector pipe no worries but it is wider than the old one so you hav to rotate the header 180 degrees and have the pipe over the back of the car. Yes it does make a big power difference the car accellerates harder from a standstill and right up through the rev range. Will have a pic soon as I get it mounted niceley.
It came from Tower Hobbies in the States I think, they are not race legal over there as they have moving parts in the exhaust, there is a spring inside the pipe that moves as the engine revs harder.

[_Burn0ut_]

I suppose u got the 1/8th pipe, i have used the 1/10th pipe and found it good once it was tuned properly. How much did the pipe cost once it came through customs and what not? Cos from wheelspin they are £50!

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by Shadgrind
Yeah it fits on the original connector pipe no worries but it is wider than the old one so you hav to rotate the header 180 degrees and have the pipe over the back of the car. Yes it does make a big power difference the car accellerates harder from a standstill and right up through the rev range. Will have a pic soon as I get it mounted niceley.
It came from Tower Hobbies in the States I think, they are not race legal over there as they have moving parts in the exhaust, there is a spring inside the pipe that moves as the engine revs harder.

Can u go to this link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBYG4&P=7

and tell me if its the same pipe (maybe in a diff colour)

Cheers shadgrind

[vsnakebytev]

Hey Guys, Thank you so much for your help! It was the wheel hexes... I never would have guessed that! I amgoing to order the new rims tomorrow, when I get them (hopefully by friday) I will also pic up a set of Losi Dirt Specs (blue, rear)

With theset I have I am going to take the pair (not ruined) and put screws threw the tires to act as studs and spikes! Now there's some wheelies!I am awaiting my decision in which airbrush to get so I can practise the flames ( I have theHummer Body)

I am enjoying the 3E so much I am looking into purchasing another just to get a street racing 1, so I am planning on purchasing a EVO chassis aswell as a Mclaren body:D I am also looking into the Fusion, so I will have my need for speed covered, then I will be done in buying new cars fora while then it's going to be making them better and faster!

Hey Thanx again, also where could I get these Tungsten carbide balls for the diff? (in the states, how much)

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
Can u go to this link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBYG4&P=7

and tell me if its the same pipe (maybe in a diff colour)

Cheers shadgrind

Yeah http://www2.gpmd.com/image/c/cveg1014.jpg thats it and for everyone else here's the pic

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by vsnakebytev
Hey Thanx again, also where could I get these Tungsten carbide balls for the diff? (in the states, how much)

The tungsten carbide diff balls are a standard Schumacher upgrade, so your LHS should either stock them or be able to get them, they may even do thier own like my LHS Apex, though Apex do them in packs of 12 and you need 18 (the Schumacher kit is 18 balls) They cost 10GBP so in the States you can probably get them for 10USD (they rip us off over here).

[carerra]

shadgrind

is the shiny new pipe any louder than the stock XTR pipe???

[ohyeahbaby]

Is that big 6 cool cylinder head thing u bought the bigger purple heatsink thing, if it is can u pls tell me the part number cause my engine gets well hot and im fed up of waitin for it to cool down.

Thanks AGAIN!

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
Is that big 6 cool cylinder head thing u bought the bigger purple heatsink thing, if it is can u pls tell me the part number cause my engine gets well hot and im fed up of waitin for it to cool down.

Thanks AGAIN!

No the Big 6 head came from my Big 6, they were selling them from Schumacher direct for 30GBP, the purple alloy block is what Westie bought, see the our cars section on our site, then go to Westies XTR www.nitrocrazy.com if you want a pic of his alloy engine mount. We don't have a pic of the Big 6 head really but there is a pic of the Big 6 with no shell on somewhere. Schumacher have stopped selling the head now and you can only buy the small one, unless your local LHS has some or loads of us moan to Schumacher. I have found my engine runs up to 30 degrees cooler with the big head on it!!!

By the way the CVec pipe cost me about 40GBP after the customs hit!

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
shadgrind

is the shiny new pipe any louder than the stock XTR pipe???
Yes it is louder, sounds more 'meaty' too :D :cool: :cool: :D

[vsnakebytev]

ok Great, 10 dollars isnt that much. Thanx for the info and great tips... i'll keep u posted

[carerra]

Originally posted by Shadgrind
Yes it is louder, sounds more 'meaty' too :D :cool: :cool: :D


cool....heard that if ya remove the 'centre section' on a cvec pipe then they really rip....dunnno how true this is tho....where bouts did you put the pressure nipple??? were there instructions with the pioe??...also heard that the pipe is adjustable between good fuel consumption and better power....are these features on your pipe??

[carerra]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
Is that big 6 cool cylinder head thing u bought the bigger purple heatsink thing, if it is can u pls tell me the part number cause my engine gets well hot and im fed up of waitin for it to cool down.

Thanks AGAIN!

was looking into getting a big6 head a while back....spoke to the guys at Apex, but they said it wouldn't fit under the standard body.....without some major body cutting anyway....in the speed secrets part at the back of the manual they have the bigger cooling head as being black.....

[carerra]

ok...just seen this on the net... http://www.off-road.com/rc/thundertiger/eb4.html ....this car uses the same TT 21 engine as the XTR....what intrested me most though was the line... 'If you took off the pull start and one way bearing and put on a regular backing plate and used a starter box to fire it off you would gain approx .25 horsepower' .....now that sounds VERY intresting to me....would replacing the pull start with the the e-start system have the same effect??? if so i'm defo doing this as well as getting a cvec pipe.....things are really gonna be hotting up soon...:D :D

[TKGSuperFan]

I run my 21xtr-3e with the Air Tronics 75Mhz AM radio that came with it and it seems to be o.k but I worry about it going out of range and not slowing down. I realize the truck is equipped with a recoil spring but does anyone run any fail safe devices ??

I had a look at the one by Venom Racing....

What about temp gauges.

[ohyeahbaby]

I have a failsafe, its some intelligent one so it puts brakes on (or whatever u set it to) when the battery gets below 4 volts or if no signal is being recieved cause i dont think the throttle spring will deal with the servo if no signal only recieved or if battery goes totally flat or disconnects, overall for the little it costs and the amount it could save ya in damges i would say deffo get one.

Any failsafe will do from your LHS but makesure it not only stops the car when no signal and it also stops the car when it has low battery oh yeah make sure u can adjust how mach the brakes go on etc.

People may have other views but i dont think its worth gettin temp guages, if it boils spit let it cool otherwise keep it running:D

[carerra]

Originally posted by TKGSuperFan
I run my 21xtr-3e with the Air Tronics 75Mhz AM radio that came with it and it seems to be o.k but I worry about it going out of range and not slowing down. I realize the truck is equipped with a recoil spring but does anyone run any fail safe devices ??

I had a look at the one by Venom Racing....

What about temp gauges.


i got a fail safe device....bought it yesterday....seems pretty good to me...it's a GWS FS-1...plugs between the throttle and reciever...works well as it's adjustable so you can vary the amount of brakes that come on when it looses a signal or the reciever battery voltage drops too far....haven't actually used the car since fitting it....but all the dry runs i've done so far....i.e turning transmitter off...it's worked spot on.

as for the venom one....seems a little expensive to me priced as £24.99 on the apexmodels site....i paid £15.99 for mine, though i do believe that apex also sell one by Pro-Peak for £14.99


dunno about temp gauges...been looking to get one too....good for checking engine isn't too hot and for tuning.


failsafe is yellow box on reciever

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
cool....heard that if ya remove the 'centre section' on a cvec pipe then they really rip....dunnno how true this is tho....where bouts did you put the pressure nipple??? were there instructions with the pioe??...also heard that the pipe is adjustable between good fuel consumption and better power....are these features on your pipe??

Yeah the thing is adjustable between good fuel consumption and better power I of course think about the environment and saving our valuable rescourses, so I have it set to USE ALL THE FUEL AS QUICK AS YOU CAN AND GO AS FAST AS POSSIBLE :) Not too sure about instructions I am not big on reading them, it was easy to put together, will try ripping out the internals too sounds just up NitroCrazy's alley that one :)

Pressure nipple fitting is a matter of personal preference I worked out where the pipe would go and drilled the hole on the top side.

Not sure if I mentioned but I was using the Big ^ pipe before and that is not a bad pipe either, the standard XTR one is a bit pants, it was meant for a 12 or 15 engine anyway!!! The engine has been reviewed in a mag recently too and came out very well!

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by carerra
i got a fail safe device....bought it yesterday....dunno about temp gauges...been looking to get one too....good for checking engine isn't too hot and for tuning.
failsafe is yellow box on reciever

You need to remount your exhaust stub mate just like Westies in this pic (looks nice in yellow :)...http://www.aowp04.dsl.pipex.com/images/westie%20Exhaust%20stub.jpg

Also Venom temp gauge that records pak temps also 30 GBP from Apex http://www.aowp04.dsl.pipex.com/images/Cooked!.jpg As you can see mine got a little hot after a run away! Maybe I need a failsafe :confused:

[Westie]

I personally have found the Venom Temp Guage to be a very useful tool. It's great to be able to see the difference you are making to the temperature in actual degrees when tuning the engine or cutting vent holes in your body shell. You would be amazed to see the difference you can make to the running temperature by just turning the mixture screw by an 1/8 of a turn or cutting another hole in the shell. Shadgrind for instance was able to acuratly measure a drop of 30 degrees when fitting the the oversize head on his engine.

As ohyeahbaby says you can live without it but I believe that it does help you get that little extra out of your car without the danger of overheating the engine.

[Westie]

was looking into getting a big6 head a while back....spoke to the guys at Apex, but they said it wouldn't fit under the standard body.....without some major body cutting anyway....in the speed secrets part at the back of the manual they have the bigger cooling head as being black.....



Yes the big6 head is the black one and The Big6 head is obviously alot bigger but I know that Shadgrind has not had to make any cuts in his shell to accomadate the bigger head. The only problem is that Schumacher in there wisdom have decided to stop supplying the bigger head as an option. They believe that with the 3 speed gear box there is less strain on the engine and therefore less heat generated but as I have already stated in the previous post Shadgrind found a very noticeble difference in temperatures when running with the big head.

[TKGSuperFan]

My truck is always running through the brake. Soon as I start it up it wants to take off like crazy.

I have read the manual and can't find the proper settings. how do you have the settings.

High Speed - How many turns open from closed ?

Low Speed - In or out from flush ?

Idle Spring Screw - How many turns from closed..

This is a huge problem as I can't run the truck as I can't stop it as it just runs on by itself...

[xtr21]

If you can't get the idle speed down it's probably one of two causes - either the small throttle stop screw is incorrectly adjusted or, the small mixture screw is too lean (turn it anti clockwise to richen - only adjust it a small amount at a time)
Just for everyone's information - latest from Schumacher on the Cool Head - they are not discontinuing it and it is still available. They were most put out when I posted on the Team Talk forum complaining about what a stupid decision withdrawing it was !!!!
I have no idea what the current stock availability is though - if you have problems hassle their Sales team !!!!
Xtrracers out Sunday at East Grinstead - hope the Nitrocrazy gang can come along this week.........:cool:

[ohyeahbaby]

Do ya mean grinstead in colchester?

If ya do i live near there and would be well up for takin my car out, where bouts in grinstead u meeting and what date,time

[xtr21]

East Grinstead in Sussex - We race in the Imberhorne Lane Industrial Estate just off the A22 at Felbridge. If you're down this way you're more than welcome.

[carerra]

took the k&n filter off my car....gotta say it now seems to be a bit more perky....also found that it wheelies way more now i've raised the suspension....in fact it wheelies so much i'm gonna lower it as i cant open the throttle without it aiming itself at the sun....still lots of fun tho- even more so when i get my cvec:D :D :D

[_Burn0ut_]

You guys are mad puttin a CVEC on an xt-r 3e, aint it fast enough already! i must be mad aswell as im gonna get one, either CVEC or sommit else.

I have some Traxxas Big bore shocks from my n.sport, but to fit them, i need to change the ends on them right? Also, the front ones are a little shorter, is it ok to put them on?

Took my 3e out today after repairing a broken a-arm, i tuned it in properly for the first time since break in and its like ive just gone WOT for the first time again, it absolutely flies. I only just got into 2nd on my garden and that involved a run in with a bush :p .

I have made a roll bar to go between the engine and fuel tank, i need to take a bit off the mounts with my Dremel as the fuel tank overlaps it a bit, ill post some pics when its done.

Does anybody know a good tire selection for loose gravel, ive tried Dirt Hawg II's but with little success. I was thinking maybe dirt paws or sand paddles

[carerra]

i've been running venoms in loose dirt/gravel though that could be because i can't be arsed to change them...find that the schumacher Vee 2's are pretty good in the dirt, also tried the stagger ribs but i think these need a softer surface like sand or mud as they don't dig in enough...

[vsnakebytev]

Hey guys, I ran into the same problem! I am having difficulty with the transmission. The gears are spining but not the drivetrain, I took it apart and the diff is ok, I am not brave enough to take apart the 3 speed (cause i'll lose something:rolleyes: ) So has any one else had this problem? what could be wrong? Thanks again... hopefully this works

[Westie]

Hey guys, I ran into the same problem! I am having difficulty with the transmission. The gears are spining but not the drivetrain, I took it apart and the diff is ok, I am not brave enough to take apart the 3 speed (cause i'll lose something ) So has any one else had this problem? what could be wrong?

If your Diff is definately O.K. then it probably is your 1st gear rachet. It's not so bad to take apart honest. Just take off the parts and lay them out in order then reverse the order when putting them back on. Just be careful not to lose the two small shims between the 1st and 2nd gears.

If the problem is with the 1st gear rachet .You will notice that the 1st gear rachet will look worn. I would recommend that you replace both the first gear and the rachet at the same time and leave the 1st gear rachet spring out when you reassembe the gears. Most of the chalkpit racers have now taken the spring out and we seem to have a lot less problems with wear on the rachet now.

[mlowie]

I am on my third gearset and both failures were due to the 1st gear ratchet. When you replace them leave the spring out of the gearset and you should be ok. i got the tip from adrian at Schumacher USA. I have to say it so far has held up. As long as you do the diff test every so often you will not have a problem with the transmission, as they are virtually bulletproof. Have you guys looks at the 16mm kevlar belt??? Cool huh?

Anyone out there have the subaru rally car they just released. Looking for input/opinions on it. Thanks

Mike

[carerra]

just fitted the e-start to my car....not sure if it was me but my car definitely seemed faster...so much so that i couldn't stop it in time so it hit a wall at a dodgy angle and ripped the rear left wheel and hub off:( :( :( :( ....only just started the car too and my new temp gauge was only on 180f...


also for those with the e-start....is the black bit which the hex driver goes into supposed to spin when the engines running???? or is it supposed to stop when you remove the drill bit???

ta

[_Burn0ut_]

Yes it is supposed to spin when you take it out, this is attatched to the crankshaft which is constantly revving. It happens in the pull start but u cant see it.

[carerra]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
Yes it is supposed to spin when you take it out, this is attatched to the crankshaft which is constantly revving. It happens in the pull start but u cant see it.


ooohh goody...wasn't sure if i'd fitted it properly or somethin...

thanks

just gotta rebuild the rear left wheel hub now........'apex'

[_Burn0ut_]

I ordered something from Galaxy models for the first time last week and the stuff came within 16 hours, i ordered some other maxx bits aswell as the broken a arms for my xt-r3e. I phoned them up at 5:00pm thurs and it came 7:00am fri, now thats quick. And the postage was only £1.50.

They did say, however, that they dont stock all dez storm parts but luckily theyt had my arms i needed.

Some of you should give them a try sometime

[Jermy]

I just bought a Nitro 21XT-R 3E and I was wondering the temperature ranges should be for the truck ( I bought a digital temperature thing)

Also can you buy aftermarket tires for the truck or only order them from the website?

[carerra]

Originally posted by Jermy
I just bought a Nitro 21XT-R 3E and I was wondering the temperature ranges should be for the truck ( I bought a digital temperature thing)

Also can you buy aftermarket tires for the truck or only order them from the website?


dunno about the temp range...mine seemed to be about the 230f mark though i think it would of gone higher had i not crashed it and had to stop it....not sure what the exact ideal range is tho...


as for the wheels/tyres, you can only use the standard schumacher wheels (white or chrome) but i think most tyres work...pro-line make a load of rubber that'll fit the xtr...just have a look at their site...



BURNOUT....does galaxy have a website??

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by carerra
BURNOUT....does galaxy have a website??

If burnout means the galaxy models in suffolk the website is:

http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by vsnakebytev
Hey guys, I ran into the same problem! I am having difficulty with the transmission. The gears are spining but not the drivetrain, I took it apart and the diff is ok, I am not brave enough to take apart the 3 speed (cause i'll lose something:rolleyes: ) So has any one else had this problem? what could be wrong? Thanks again... hopefully this works

I have had my gearbox apart in excess of thirty times, it's easy, the diff is more complex, you really had it apart, completley? The solution with the diff (especially off road) is to run it tight, mt last diff has lasted ages and I just tightened it right up! If your diff is slipping you can make it last a little longer by just winding it right up. My diff is actually running with two ball bearings missing and has run like that for a gallon and a half of fuel :-)

[carerra]

SHADGRIND

do you have some cvec pics yet??? ordered one yesterday from a shop in Devon for £39.99...

[rc man37689]

IS THIS RIGHT LOOK IN THE LINK http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/html/cars/nitro.php



IS THIS GOOD PLACE TO ORDER THE XTR 3E?

[rc man37689]

LOOK AT THE PRICE IT CHHHEEEEEPPPP

[rc man37689]

sorry i dont think its $

[carerra]

Originally posted by rc man37689
IS THIS RIGHT LOOK IN THE LINK http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/html/cars/nitro.php



IS THIS GOOD PLACE TO ORDER THE XTR 3E?


you wanna order a xtr 3e??? go to www.apexmodels.co.uk ...even cheaper there...

[rc man37689]

thanx


i wanna order 1 is really cool

[rc man37689]

but from my lhs thanx anyway

[ohyeahbaby]

On your nitro crazy website i was lookin at today (much improved i must add) i noticed under the close up parts page that someone called big mark is selling metal bumpers for a tenner. Can u please give me someway of getting in touch with him cause im always breaking bumpers (3 so far).

Would it be ok if i sent him a cheque through the post or something cheers.

[carerra]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
First things first u want to get a NI-MH pack over a NICAD and NI-MH dont have memory lose.

You want a micropack as this will fit the battery box.

I would rccomend a team orion 6v 1100mah that cost about £20 part no. OR13010 (you should phone apex just to make sure the pack will fit the battery box as they seem to know a lot about the xtr.

As for a 240v peak charger i would reccomend the M-Troniks APC 200MD-Plus Peak charger (part no. APC200MD)

keep us posted on how the battery pack work out cause im thinkin of gettin one.


eventually got a fastrax 6.0v 600mAh NiCad reciever pack...could of got a NiMh one but a suitable charger would of cost so much more....got it from apex and the guy recommended the futaba Rx/Tx wall charger to go with it....i was a little unsure if it was suitable as it said 4.8v - 120mAh on it for reciever packs....didn't know if it'd charge it properly.....seems to be ok tho, but i'm gonna ring apex again to make sure it's ok, if not i gotta get a new charger capable of doing Rx reciever packs....

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
On your nitro crazy website i was lookin at today (much improved i must add) i noticed under the close up parts page that someone called big mark is selling metal bumpers for a tenner. Can u please give me someway of getting in touch with him cause im always breaking bumpers (3 so far).

Would it be ok if i sent him a cheque through the post or something cheers.

Yeah it's mark@nitrocrazy.com, I will put links to all our mail addresess on the site soon, maybe even NOW! mine is wheels@nitrocrazy.com or shadgrind@nitrocrazy.com westies is westie@nitrocrazy.com there are others too, like drnitro@nitrocrazy.com a mythical being that knows all (truth be known he is a superbrain of combined knowledge of all or us (his IQ must be in double figures)!!! :D :D :D

As regards cheques in post maybe you could sort that with him , he has had a few orders but is getting through them.

Watch this space for new carbon fibre chassis and bumpers maybe even wishbones, that will not break!

[Shadgrind]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
First things first u want to get a NI-MH pack over a NICAD and NI-MH dont have memory lose.

Actually NiMH do have memory effect and are best run flat before every charge, not as bad as NiCaD and they last longer. I run NiMH 1700 or 1850 batteries from www.budgetbateries.co.uk and will be getting some 200mah soon. They are excellent value for money on there too.

The only rechargeables you can get with no memory effect are Lithium Ion but they don't do them for ordinary batteries yet (mobile phones use em though now in the main) one problem even if you could get Li Ion batteries you should NOT run them flat as this degrades performance, so not a lot of good for most of us there then. They also have no drop off in performance, insted when they get old they just die rather than giving a shorter charge.

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by Shadgrind
The only rechargeables you can get with no memory effect are Lithium Ion.

I think there is a new rechargable out now that u can get from places like rapid electronics in like aa,aaa etc size that has no memory loss (like lithium ion), all i can remember is it begins with an A.

[mlowie]

Hey guys I know wheelies are fun but I seriously need to keep the front end on the ground. I was thinking a carb restrictor yet I can't find anyone who makes one for a .21. Other than removing first gear, running w/ 2nd and third only, or put weight on the front of the truck, what can I do to keep the front wheels on the ground. :confused:

[ohyeahbaby]

Dont get a carb restrictor it will slow your car down tooo much, i think you can get a .21 off tower hobbies though.

I strapped a fairly heavy lead weight to the front of my car and stiffened the front suspension with different springs, i know you probably dont approve but its the best way.

[carerra]

you could also try lowering the car a bit....removing some suspension spacers...this will lower the centre of gravity and help stop the car wheeling.....i raised my car to stop it bottoming out on the bumpy lane by my house.....find it wheelies way more on the smooth road now though.....so much so, it's getting annoying as i can't blast it on full throttle....gonna have to lower it a bit....

[xtr21]

Just thought I'd update you on the status of my very distraught "EVO" spec XTR. After the last XTRracers meeting when it received a very heavy frontal inpact (with another driver who shall remain nameless - PAUL !!) the car actually broke in half with the front wheels and suspension torn from the chassis.
The crash even smashed on of my Fusion fuel tanks so I thought I'd take the opportunity to find a single tank that will work without any hassle, so, after a trip to Sussex Model Centre in Worthing, I'm now the proud owner of a Thunder Tiger EK-4 buggy fuel tank. I've finally got my hands on a new chassis and the rest of the parts should be arriving today, so I will post some pictures of the car when its freshly rebuilt. I'm also working on a new chassis design for tarmac cars which will be 4mm aluminium and feature a hybrid XTR/Big6 front suspension set-up. Will also be running the Big6 silencer with the Fusion exhaust header on the EVO-XTR so will report back on how she goes.

[Hoke]

I know this is a little off topic but i need a liitle help and I think you guys can help me.

I just got my hands on a new in box Schumacher Nitro 10 (the stadium truck) and I was wondering how much I can get for it if i sell it. It is brand new, the plastic bags hasn't even been opened, but there is no engine and no radio gear.

One more thing: If i deside to keep it, which parts of the kit can I use as spare parts to my XTR??

[ohyeahbaby]

ive finally ordered my cvec (dispatched today) and repair bits from apex after crashing into washing line pole about 40mph (dont ask:( ).

Can you post a pic to show me how you mounted your cvec cause i remember u sayin something about you cant mount it how the original was.

And also do apex do t maxx tanks as my fuel will vanish wid cvec on full power settin:D .

[_Burn0ut_]

I wouldnt set it on 5 straight away, put it on 4 as if u put it on 5 the back pressure gets affected.

[carerra]

ohyeahbaby

did you get your cvec from apex? i rang them a while ago only to be told they didn't sell them....found a more local supplier though and am expecting delivery tomorrow???

also waiting for my venom systems checker from apex (warns of low battery, reciever problems, crystal problems...etc).....just got a new body for it too along with an airbrush and a few pots of paint.....will stick the finished results up on here.....as long as they turn out good.

also got a new hitec servo for the steering.....it's about twice as fast to 60* as my futaba 3003 and has about 1.5kg more torque...should help it steer better - well, when the wheels are on the ground anyway.

all in all, this month has been rather expensive, luckily though i'm running out of things to buy....only lacking some alloy hubs wishbones etc....


also regarding the cvec....you gotta remove the exhaust header spring, spin the header round 180* so it's behind the engine, then rig up a wire mount to support the end of the pipe...haven't figure myself yet where i'm gonna put the mount....

[carerra]

Originally posted by Hoke
I know this is a little off topic but i need a liitle help and I think you guys can help me.

I just got my hands on a new in box Schumacher Nitro 10 (the stadium truck) and I was wondering how much I can get for it if i sell it. It is brand new, the plastic bags hasn't even been opened, but there is no engine and no radio gear.

One more thing: If i deside to keep it, which parts of the kit can I use as spare parts to my XTR??


not too sure about the interchangeability of parts so i suggest you go to the schumacher site... www.racing-cars.com and take a look at the technical section to compare exploded diagrams of the two cars...then you'll be able to see the parts difference...

if the car is in unused form as you suggest, then i'd thought £150 would be a reasonable starting price for the kit....what size engine does it use???

[Hoke]

Originally posted by carerra
if the car is in unused form as you suggest, then i'd thought £150 would be a reasonable starting price for the kit....what size engine does it use???

On the box it says that it will take anything from 10 to 15 size engines, but as I said it is not included in my kit.

Anyone interested in buying??

[carerra]

try putting it on ebay...the publicity schumacher is currently getting about the mental fusion, xtr and big6 will ensure someone will want part of the action though in a smaller engine form...

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by carerra
ohyeahbaby

did you get your cvec from apex?

I got the cvec from tower hobbies in america. even with shipping costs it worked out cheaper than places in england.

Have u changed your fuel tank carrera?, if you have where did u get it from and how much?

[nuespeed]

Whats a glow plug driver? i ve heard like its sort of like an ez start or could I use a glow plug ignitor to take place of that on the XTR 3E.
BTW I am not a noob I lost my user name and changed isp's recently sadly I forgot my old profile name Ive been in this hobby for 4 years and I have 1 rustler that can go 43+ mph electric and a electric hpi rs4 2

[ohyeahbaby]

it take it your new to nitro.

An ezstart has nothing to do with the glow plug driver. the ez start takes place of outdated pull cords. U simply put a drill bit into it and turn it on, it will turn over the engine (and start hopefully).

At the same time u have to have the glow plug driver attached to the glow plug (inside the hole in the top of the heatsink).

A glow plug is the thing that goes red hot to ignite the fuel. A glow plug driver is the thing that you plug onto the glow plug when starting, it passes a high current through the glow plug making it hot enough to ignite fuel. Glow plug ignitor is just a different name for glow plug driver.... i think.

[carerra]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
I got the cvec from tower hobbies in america. even with shipping costs it worked out cheaper than places in england.

Have u changed your fuel tank carrera?, if you have where did u get it from and how much?

not changed fuel tank yet, though it's something i'm gonna look into...with the cvec in place i should have more chassis room from where the old pipe was, allowing for a bigger tank, as currently everything is sooo tight together...

oh, and i got my cvec for £39 - for the 1/8 scale one in black

[nuespeed]

But could I simply use a glow plig ignititor instead??

[sk8kid33]

the glow ignitor is the same thing is a glow driver/warmer/heater/starter

[ohyeahbaby]

I made an order at wheelspin models the other day and they sent me an email saying the price is too low to ship.

I need some road tires for my car (so i thought id order them to bring the price up) but unfortunately venoms arnt on their website.

could someone please go to

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/products/wheels/on_road_tires.htm

and tell me which ones will fit, also do they come in pack of 2 or 4?

THANKS

[ohyeahbaby]

I made an order at wheelspin models the other day and they sent me an email saying the price is too low to ship.

I need some road tires for my car (so i thought id order them to bring the price up) but unfortunately venoms arnt on their website.

could someone please go to

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/products/wheels/on_road_tires.htm

and tell me which ones will fit and which are best , also do they come in pack of 2 or 4?

THANKS

[carerra]

it's very likely that they come in packs of 2....you'll need 2.2inch truck tyres if it's for your xtr.....and by looking at the road tyres they do....none seem big enough - all touring car tyres - try phoning them though they may have other stuff not on the site.

if ya really need somethin else to add to your order....how about getting a better steering servo??? assuming your running a futaba 3003 or similar for the steering, you could get something quicker with more torque.....i'm waiting for this to be delivered..

wm2281
Hitec
HS525MG
5 pole motor
4.1kg
0.13s
50.6g
£32.99

[nuespeed]

Are Mip stingers benificail on a XTR 3E because to most .21's you get a lot of power and lawn mower sound out of them:lol:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/851004.asp
or is the stock pipe good.:wav:

[carerra]

Originally posted by nuespeed
Are Mip stingers benificail on a XTR 3E because to most .21's you get a lot of power and lawn mower sound out of them:lol:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/851004.asp
or is the stock pipe good.:wav:

haven't heard of anyone running a stinger on an xtr, quite a lot of us though use cvec pipes as they seem to work real good...you gotta use the 1/8th pipes though due to the .21 engine...

[ohyeahbaby]

i read somewhere that running 10 to 18 inches of fuel line beteen exaust nipple and tank stops fuel pulshing; is this true and is it worth doing to the xtr?

What about the length of the fuel pipe goin from the fuel tank to the engine. should this be any longer or just minumum length ???

thanks again people

[rc man37689]

i know this is nitro offroad but which should i get fusion or xtr 3e

[carerra]

Originally posted by rc man37689
i know this is nitro offroad but which should i get fusion or xtr 3e

get both:D .....where you planning to run the car??? if all onroad then get the fusion but if you wanna run on and off road get the XTR -3e....just slap on some venom road rubber, remove some shock spacers and put some heavier weight oil in the shocks, and you have a pretty decent road truck - which within no time can also be hurtling around the park or field....

[xtr21]

Get an XTR-3e and do the "EVO" chassis conversion..................
Check out www.xtrracers.co.uk
You can run on and off road, plus there's the added advantage of being able to use the 1/8th scale saloon bodyshells.
Just bolt on the Venoms for on road and fit a set of front shocks to the rear with Schumacher Black springs all round and you have a tarmac terror - swap back to the kit tyres and rear shocks for off-road. Mind you............if you can afford it, do as carerra says............AND GET BOTH !!!!!!!!!

[ohyeahbaby]

Originally posted by ohyeahbaby
i read somewhere that running 10 to 18 inches of fuel line beteen exaust nipple and tank stops fuel pulshing; is this true and is it worth doing to the xtr?

What about the length of the fuel pipe goin from the fuel tank to the engine. should this be any longer or just minumum length ???

thanks again people

Thanks for the hundreds of replies, not!:D

Shadgrind i think it was your site i saw the quote above on, it also said something about a more linear power band, so can anyone answer the quoted question for me.

[carerra]

can't say i'm using that much pipe, but after hearing about that too....on rcnitro i think....i got some more pipe....i think i'm using roughly 10inches for the fuel to carb line and about 7 for the pressure line.....haven't really noticed any difference since changing.

[Hoke]

What parts do I need to replace my pull starter with the E-start system?. I already have a cordless drill so I don't need that.

Part numbers??

[xtr21]

The part number is G556. It contains everything you need to convert from pull start to e-start. You say you have the cordless drill already which is great, they recommend a drill with a torque setting but this is just to safeguard against occasions when you flood the enging and hydro-lock it. I've just fitted one and it is superb - no more aching arms from pull starting and esy starts every time. You soon get in the habit of priming the fuel as well.
I paid about £30 from Schumacher............best value for money I've had in ages. Pics of my modded "EVO" XTR will apear on www.xtrracers.co.uk very soon.
My advice............go get your e-start immediately !!!!

[ohyeahbaby]

Got the cvec today and the metal bumper off Shadgrinds mate big marks, Thanks alot!!!. XTR's running beautifully, one of my only runs without a breakage :D, but does need a clean as you will soon see.

Others with cvecs how have you fixed them cause mines a bit bodged at the moment.

Here are some pics:

[ohyeahbaby]

from da front..........

[rc man37689]

is the thunder tiger engine in this 30,000 rpm or 40,000. because on schumachers website it says 30,000 ,but somewhere else i saw 40,000.so which one is it?

[ohyeahbaby]

Its 40,000 revs, it says this on the box i think.

On the website it says 2.1 bhp @30,000 cause 30000 is when the engine gives most power but will go on untill 40000 revs, but it changes gear before 40000 obviously.

[rc man37689]

o ok i know

[vsnakebytev]

Hey guys some one said something about a ratchet being worn inside my car and that is the problem, well what is the ratchet? does any one have a pic of it? Also how exactly would I replace it?

Thanks for all the help,

Also has any one upgraded the engine yet?

[carerra]

Originally posted by xtr21
The part number is G556. It contains everything you need to convert from pull start to e-start. You say you have the cordless drill already which is great, they recommend a drill with a torque setting but this is just to safeguard against occasions when you flood the enging and hydro-lock it. I've just fitted one and it is superb - no more aching arms from pull starting and esy starts every time. You soon get in the habit of priming the fuel as well.
I paid about £30 from Schumacher............best value for money I've had in ages. Pics of my modded "EVO" XTR will apear on www.xtrracers.co.uk very soon.
My advice............go get your e-start immediately !!!!



did you notice any difference in the performance after fitting the e-start???? i'm not sure if it was just me but it definitely felt like my car was faster after fitting it....only very slightly though.

[xtr21]

Definately felt quicker with e-start.............mind you, the fusion exhaust header and Big 6 silencer help too !! And finally having a decent fuel tank to keep the fuel pressure constant must help as well. Will eventually get those pics posted that I keep promising !!

[carerra]

XTR21
do you now have the pipe running down the side of the vehicle??
still waiting for my cvec to be delivered.


made a few mods to my brakes.....put my dremel to the steel pads to roughen them up a bit and also put some criss cross lines on with an engraving bit also drilled about 9, 2mm holes in the disc....hasn't made the braking any worse.....if anything it may of made it slightly better as the ground pads have a bit more bite to them....

[xtr21]

Yes, pipe now runs along side of "EVO" chassis (like the fusion layout). Means I have a nice side exit exhaust !! I also prefer the big 6 silencer to the CVEC - it's cheaper and also easier to get hold of as a standard schumacher part. Not sure you can fit the Big 6 silencer to a standard chassis in this way due to the fact that it's longer - the "EVO" chassis is extended.
Would also recommend the Thunder Tiger EK4/EB4 fuel tank (part no. PD1253 @ £10.99 from Sussex Model Centre) As soon as I can get access to a digital camera I'll post the pics I keep promising.

[carerra]

is the big6 pipe a 'sabattini' thunder tiger pipe??? was looking for one of those for ages but couldn't find one....ended up getting a cvec.


What % nitro do all you XTR guys run??? i'm using 10% dynaglo but have been told by the guy in apex that using 20% bluethunder would be better and also help my engine run cooler??? recently it's been peaking over 300F on my venom temp gauge so anything to help it run cooler would be good....

[vsnakebytev]

I am using 20%

I am now waiting for my replacement ratchet so I can go back out and have some fun!:D

[xtr21]

Used to use dynaglow 10%, now totally converted to Blue Thunder............tend to run 10% just to prolong engine life, but have been known to occasionally run 20% just for "the hell of it"
Big 6 silencer is a Thunder Tiger made part, has "FEMCA 514" printed on it and is Schumacher part no. G553B - around £30.00 when I last checked.
And hey, just took some pics at last so watch this space..............

[carerra]

tempted to get bluethunder next....think i'll try some 20%, i'm sure a higer nitro content which will aparently make my engine run cooler will be more benificial than running at 280-300f which it's currently at.

xtr21
what servo's you running on your car??
hopefully in the post tomorrow i should be recieving my nice new hitec servo with metal gears and BB's...can't remember it's part number tho....should also have my new cvec, airbrush and paints....be able to start on my new bodyshell this weekend. yey.

should also be getting my venom system checker.....on backorder from apex so dunno when it's gonna be delivered......this damn hobby is like crack!!! very expensive and highly addictive (note for all: I DO NOT CONSUME CRACK OR CONDONE DRUG USE):D :D :D

[xtr21]

Carrera, I run Futaba 3004 servo's, basically the standard servo but ballraced to prevent them "knocking out" as the standard ones seems to do, especially on the steering. I've tried the hi-torque ones on the steering and find that with our chassis setup, it makes the car "snatch" into corners resulting in oversteer and usually, a spin. The 3004's are cheaper too !!
Here's the pics of the exhaust and fuel tank I promised. Full article on my XTR on www.xtrracers.co.uk this weekend.

[xtr21]

The Big 6 exhaust and Fusion manifold..............(I hope, if I can get the picture to post)

[xtr21]

Thunder Tiger EK4/EB4 fuel tank conversion...............

[xtr21]

Never shown an "EVO" chassis before, so here it is...................

[xtr21]

The XTRracers "EVO" spec race car.......................

[rc man37689]

why did u put the big 6 exhaust in it?

[xtr21]

I put the Big 6 exhaust on because:

1. The standard exhaust is for a 12/15 engine not .21 (as discussed elsewhere on this forum)

2. I had one spare !!!

3. It's cheaper than a CVEC (also discussed elsewhere on this forum)

4. It makes the power delivery smoother and the car is faster !!!

[rc man37689]

ok

[_Burn0ut_]

xtr21 - Whats the length of the pipe and header from end to end?

[xtr21]

Damn good question...........I'll measure it tonight when I get home and post later.

[_Burn0ut_]

K cheers

Has anybody seen the vid on shadgrinds website called "obstruction" or "dont play on the track kids", its really funny, would have been better with a close up.

An xt-r is in hot pursuit of a person and hits him and the person falls over lol

[carerra]

Originally posted by _Burn0ut_
K cheers

Has anybody seen the vid on shadgrinds website called "obstruction" or "dont play on the track kids", its really funny, would have been better with a close up.

An xt-r is in hot pursuit of a person and hits him and the person falls over lol

yeah...got it a while back...very funny - serves the kids right.

[carerra]

finally get my cvec, it's bigger than i thought it'd be. been wondering where to mount it and have decided to put it where the orginal pipe goes....had to cut a section out of my bodyshell (my old one) to get it to fit....but was just wondering if this configuration will work with the stingers pointing slightly upwards...

[carerra]

oops...pressed wrong button:eek:

[carerra]

another pic....

won't be cutting out the hole as big in my new body....

only concern is that the pipe will choke up with oil....suppose i can unscrew it and empty it after every run...

[carerra]

one more.....it doesn't stick out too much....

[carerra]

is you cvec for .21 engines??? i had mine mounted like yours behing the engine and it stuck out to like halfway across the rear right wheel - way further than yours in the pic....mine said for 1/8 scale .21 on the bag and it's pretty big so i assume i got the right one.

[rc man37689]

i wish i had money to buy this car:mad: im flat broke:mad: :rolleyes:

[rc man37689]

and i wish this car was 1/8 not 1/10 .i wouldlike something bigger than 1/10 other than that i think ill buy it when i get money for x mas and birthday:D

[rc man37689]

i cant wait:D :cool: :)

[xtr21]

OK, the big 6 silencer is 6.5 inches long. Allow just under 2 inches more for the Fusion manifold so from the curve of the manifold to the end of the silencer is about 8.5 inches. No way it will fit a standard XTR chassis I'm afraid.......................you'll just have to build an "EVO"
:cool:

[xtr21]

LIKE THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ohyeahbaby]

My cvec is a .21 pipe ment for 1/10 scale cars. Thats why it dont stick out as far as yours but no difference in performance i should think, just made longer to stick out of the 1/8th scale chassis.

Carrera or neone else wid cvec when you screw in the internals of your cvec do you screw it in all the way to the end (the half with the exit pipes) so it touches the end?

[carerra]

theres a 1/10 pipe for .21???? dammit.....never mind, i've engineered mine to fit where the existing pipe went.....as the neck is rather narrow theres plenty of clearence with the flywheel...had to make a new support out of a coat hanger though....

first impressions???

well it's a bit quieter, though with a harder edged more metallic sound, which i think i like.

as for the performance, although the ground was wet, it span the wheels of the car all the way up my asphalt driveway (about 35foot long) - had the vee2's on the back too...seems to be much more bottom end...

all thats with it on the second lowest setting.....still gotta try out the others.



OHYEAHBABY....
not sure myself, i just screw the bits together so i can try and get the stingers and pressure nipple where i want them.....usually one end goes in more than the other, dunno if it makes much difference....maybe a bit 'cos you'll be altering the length of the internals....




was in a hobby shop called antics today, they had a rather tasty looking marder buggy on sale for about £550 inc everything radio...etc...had a 22.5cc zenoah motor.....looked mental...maybe one day...:D :D :D

[ohyeahbaby]

so does anyone else with a cvec like shadgrind or someone know whether i should screw the internals right in till the touch the end of the exit half of the pipe or does this hinder the performance???

[ohyeahbaby]

Had me car runnin beautifully today down the local tescoes car park. Measured out 100 metres took me car back bout 15 metres or so from the start line floored it and timed from the startline crossing to the finish line

Did it in 3.1 something seconds which works out to be about 75mph. And i was in second when it crossed the start so could have been quicker. Decent grip on accelaration but not enough to lift the front end off da ground wid that lead weight, just span the venoms but it popped little wheelies when changing into 2 and 3rd. When the car was going away from me i could see the tires distort like drag car tires. This thing is amazimg ly quick on tarmac and handles a beaut on it.

Pretty pleased wid the top speed considering i was running 10% fuel and the only mod apart from venoms and steel bumper and ballbearing steering kit (which dont improve speed) is the cvec.
I lowered the suspension settings on the suspension arms(wishbones i think) to the max. Beets my old schumacher.12 4wd converted to .15 round corners aswell which i didnt think it would do.

What max spped have any of u guys clocked?

[ohyeahbaby]

Had me car runnin beautifully today down the local tescoes car park. Measured out 100 metres took me car back bout 15 metres or so from the start line floored it and timed from the startline crossing to the finish line

Did it in 3.1 something seconds which works out to be about 75mph. And i was in second when it crossed the start so could have been quicker. Decent grip on accelaration but not enough to lift the front end off da ground wid that lead weight, just span the venoms but it popped little wheelies when changing into 2 and 3rd. When the car was going away from me i could see the tires distort like drag car tires. This thing is amazimg ly quick on tarmac and handles a beaut on it.

Pretty pleased wid the top speed considering i was running 10% fuel and the only mod apart from venoms and steel bumper and ballbearing steering kit (which dont improve speed) is the cvec.
I lowered the suspension settings on the suspension arms(wishbones i think) to the max. Beets my old schumacher.12 4wd converted to .15 round corners aswell which i didnt think it would do.

What max spped have any of u guys clocked?

[carerra]

haven't really tried clocking it yet, but i chase cars down the road with it....they must be doing roughly 20mph when they go pass, and my car catches up from standstill in the blink of an eyelid!! lots of fun, though you gotta be carefull....


has anyone here retro-fitted a 3 speed to their car?? i got the single speed but am tempted to get the upgrade and wanna know how easy it is to fit.

also will the different pinion gears for the Fusion work on the XTR....if i was to get the 3speed, i'd quite fance the ultra short ratios....

[ohyeahbaby]

i luv chasin cars, the road outside mine is 30 speed limit but most drive 40, i luv overtakin cars on the actual road gives them a bit of a shock but its a bit dodgy i guess, but fun:D

[xtr21]

Carrera,
I fitted the 3 speed to my evo. Its pretty straightforward - just means stripping down the gearbox to put the new layshaft in. Would thoroughly recommend the conversion.
Busted mine again though...................been out at the Felbridge site today in the wind. Must say, its absolutely flying with the fusion header and big 6 silencer. Trouble is, sometimes its too fierce, came out of the sweeper at full chat and as she went for third gear, the wind got underneath, flipped her over and slammed her backwards into the kerb. So, another rebuild on the cards ! Twisted the chassis, smashed both rear wishbones, bent the pivots, smashed one rear shock and the shock mounting plate, AND, TO MY HORROR, tore the back off the TT gearbox housing...............................DOH !!!
Might have a rest from it for a while - its hurting my wallet too much.............mind you, my youngest son has a .12 powered Thunder Tiger EX10 and I reckon i could get a Schumacher TT21 engine to fit in there...........................

[carerra]

XTR21.....isn't that twice now you've had big incidents???....sounds nasty - any estimates as to the speeds at the time?


can the fusion pinions be fitted to the XTR??

finished painting the rear wing of my new body....wanted to make sure i did it right so it took all afternoon to do the wing!! painted it candy red, with a pear silver backing...changes from red to blue as you turn it, and the silver gives a nice shimmer - new airbrush working well.....will get some pics up when it's finished - gonna have to modify the body though to accommodate the CVEC...

[ohyeahbaby]

On the news section of schumachers web site you can download different sections of the instruction manual cause i heard someone on here sayin they lost theirs before.

[xtr21]

Carerra,
I'd estimate that the car was doing around 40mph when it flipped !! When it got airbourne the wind caught it again and twisted it round in mid air so it dropped ass first into the kerb !!
The post mortem has revealed more damage.........the engine mount is broken, the carb is screwed, and there's even a piece of the engine block where the mounting screw goes broken off !!!
Just one of those things........no point owning one of these if you don't drive it hard...........

Fusion gears;
Yes, you can fit the pinions to the xtr.....BUT, you need to fit the alloy engine mount and modify the mounting holes for the engine mounting block. The fusion has a slotted chassis to allow you to adjust the position of the engine to correctly mesh the different pinions. What are you going for - more acceleration or higher top speed ?

Oh, and the conversion on my son's EX10 is gonna happen, just got the xtr flywheel modded to accept the .15 pinion so watch this space.......................

[_Burn0ut_]

I had a nasty accident once with my n.sport, goin down the road about 40 racin a car, then i realised i was gonna be out of range soon :eek: so i turned it. Thing is when u steer with the sport, im used to flicking the back round first by turning away then turning in, not a good idea on road when chasing a car. I turned into the car and then frantically turned away but nothing happened, i shot straight across the car, luckily i was in front of it and just went into a curb :( .

Could have been worse if i went into the car.

Anyways, onto my xt-r 3e, took it out yesterday, (in between the rain and storms) and it was flying. These TT engines are the dogs, off today to the school field to try and get it into 3rd, always ran outta room before.

Does anybody know if modelsport or galaxy sell xt-r wheels apart from apex?

[Hoke]

If I want my suspension to be harder, what oil should I use? Does anyone know the weight of the original oil in the XTR?

[xtr21]

I beleive the cars are shipped with 30wt oil in the shocks, if you want to stiffen the suspension you could run 80 or 100wt oil. If its an on-road setup you're after, I would suggest that you use 80wt and the black springs. You can also fit front shocks to the rear using the same black springs and oil. Schumacher do a spring set for off road as well. Don't forget that the shocks can be adjusted internally - just set them with the minimum number of holes in the piston open.

[xtr21]

Just bought an XTR-3e on E-Bay............................................... ....£205.00 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! complete with radio gear and glow starter. Can't believe it - what a bargain.
:D :D :D

[ohyeahbaby]

how much for?

[xtr21]

£205.00
Looks like I'll have a "Ready to race" EVO for sale at some point soon cos I've got enough spares to build another car..............

[carerra]

Originally posted by xtr21
I beleive the cars are shipped with 30wt oil in the shocks, if you want to stiffen the suspension you could run 80 or 100wt oil. If its an on-road setup you're after, I would suggest that you use 80wt and the black springs. You can also fit front shocks to the rear using the same black springs and oil. Schumacher do a spring set for off road as well. Don't forget that the shocks can be adjusted internally - just set them with the minimum number of holes in the piston open.


30Wt?????? my manual says they have 70wt as standard....and thats what i use....

curently i'm running a 'street' setup with 70wt all round....
Front
1 hole on piston
black (short) springs
about 4mm of spacers

Back
2 holes on piston
blue (long) springs
about 25mm of spacers

not much give when you drop it, hardly any dive under braking and hardly and squat under acceleration...corners quite well too...

might put in a softer rear spring to help traction


ANYONE know how the standard silver springs compare to the others in the aftermarket spring pack??? are they harder than blue??

[xtr21]

OK, I stand corrected. If it says 70wt in the manual then thats what they come with. Its been so long since I had a standard setup that I couldn't tell you what its like "out of the box". I do know that the silver springs are crap though, unless you want a soft setup for off-road use. My setup is as follows:

Front.
1 hole on piston.
100wt oil.
Black springs.
10mm spacers.
(Shocks are mounted horizontally - see pics posted previously)

Rear. (Std Front shocks are used on rear)
1 hole on piston.
80wt oil.
Black springs
12mm spacers.
Shocks mounted on outermost lower position.

The front is set quite hard to promote a bit of understeer - stops the car spinning out too much.

Ride height is 6mm (chassis to floor)

Kicks ass compared to standard xtr chassis........just ask shadgrind and westie !!!!

[carerra]

saw the vids of your cars on nitrocrazy.....looked pretty darn quick...the extra length of the evo chassis seems to prevent them from poping so many wheelies.....

[xtr21]

yep, and round the corners they are seriously quick compared to the standard chassis................mind you, they don't go off-road anymore, so I guess there's a downside too.
I'm gonna mod some wheels to accept foam tyres which should be interesting !!!
Also in the process of making some hub adapters so we can fit wheels with the standard hex fitments. Just so there are some options other than the Schumacher rims.
We'll have some video footage on the xtrracers site soon.......when the editor has finished doing his thing !!!

[_Burn0ut_]

Originally posted by xtr21
yep, and round the corners they are seriously quick compared to the standard chassis................mind you, they don't go off-road anymore, so I guess there's a downside too.
I'm gonna mod some wheels to accept foam tyres which should be interesting !!!
Also in the process of making some hub adapters so we can fit wheels with the standard hex fitments. Just so there are some options other than the Schumacher rims.
We'll have some video footage on the xtrracers site soon.......when the editor has finished doing his thing !!!

Now those wheel hub adapters would be kool, i would pay good money for some of those, i keep on melting my stockers.

Good idea

[vsnakebytev]

I Agree!!!!!!!!!

I also would pay good money to get some of those adaptors... I have been looking into making some myself... What kinds of rims? (from which company) I am looking into mountin MAXX rims:D possibly also some HPI MT rims they have a wide selection, and a nice one at that.

Tell us which rims you plan on it accecpting.

thanks

[xtr21]

OK, seem to have stirred it up a bit.........
Basically the plan is to experiment at first with a set of HPI rims, probably the ones for the MT I think its called. They're pretty cheap to buy as test items. But I think there is a standard hex size for most other manufacturers rims so they may fit a whole lot more - the problem is finding 2.2" truck rims with the right offset.
The adapters will either be made from aluminium or moulded plastic - depends on which come out cheaper to make, and may well have to be used with longer hub bolts.
No idea of the cost yet, but hopefully will have some prototypes made in a few weeks - as the weather is so crap and I keep smashing the evo up, I have some time on my hands.
Mind you the NAZCAR bodyshell is almost ready for the first mould as well, so I'm pretty busy !!
Will keep you updated and post pics and details as soon as I can.

[nuespeed]

Thanks but how ever Would it ever be able to fit maxx rims or rpm rustlers

[xtr21]

Simply a case of changing the hex size.............once I have a working prototype we'll explore the options.
Patience guys !!!!

[vsnakebytev]

I am looking into making mounts to fit Clodbuster rims on, I may try to do Monster Pirate ones too. I wanted to see if I could make it a monster then see how well it handles for thick off road and just to look for any improvements... also I want to see how much speed would drop...

Let me know what you think...

[carerra]

if you kept every thing else the same then bigger wheels should raise the top speed but would reduce the cars acceleration.....dunno how much though. The increased drag/friction from the larger wheels would also effect the performance.

[_Burn0ut_]

Does anybody have problems with the wheel hexes melting, ive done two on the rear left and its getting rather annoying as i have to buy new wheels. I think it might have been from a loose locknut holding the wheel on, have any of u done this before. I done this twice with my n.sport but the metal bit came out of the plastic bit.

I was wheelspinning on both occasions when i busted them so it could have been that.

On the note of the wheel adapters, i would love to see some of them made, i think that making nitro rustler rims would be best as they r still 2.2' and there is quite a large variety.

[xtr21]

Seen this problem on a number of occasions and it's always for the same reasons:

Either,
1. the wheel nut is loose
2. the wheel is not correctly located on the hub
3. you blow the rear hub bearing and melt everything around it !!

Solutions.

1. check your nuts are tight !!
2. ensure the wheel is properly located on the hub
3. keep the bearings lubricated ( I fill the area between the two rear hub bearings with 3 in 1 oil - never blown a bearing since !)

[_Burn0ut_]

Thanks, i just done the repairs and the bearing is looking a lil dodgey, when i checked the other side, the nut was quite loose so ive done them up really tight, cant test it right yet as its tippin down 'ere.

What sort of lube could i use for the bearings, that i could get at a automotive shop or something small as that s all there is here.

[xtr21]

I found that you can't beat good old "3-in-1" oil for bearings.
You can soak them before you refit them (after cleaning) and even relubricate them on the car. Its cheap too.......most hardware stores carry it.

[carerra]

when the bearings get a gritty feel to their action, rather than silky smooth i take it that that means they need a clean?? is it just a case of soaking them in the oil??? has anyone tried one of those RPM Bearing blasters that Apex sell?? or anyone tried any shielded bearings of any sort??....

[RC_Rocks]

Hi everyone. I just heard about the Desert Storm and am interested in gettign another ST. I currently have the HPI Rush. Is the Desert Storm just plain fast or is it also competitive and good for racing? Thanx.

[xtr21]

I wash them with WD40, then oil then up with 3-in-1.
Same thing for my son Matt's skateboard bearings !!
I have to confess that it was my dad who got me into the 3-in-1 !!! He swears by it !!!
I've seen a rear bearing grenade during a race, taking out the complete hub...........hilarious to watch as the wheel flies off and overtakes the car, but not the way to win races................
The problem is that you have a metal bearing in a plastic hub/driveshaft assembly. If the bearing gets too hot something's gonna melt..........Keeping the bearings clean and lubricated ensures they don't run too hot, so they don't melt the surrounding parts. Simple as that.
:cool:


P.S. Parts delivery from Schumacher today...........so, rebuild number 2 on the EVO starts tonight !
:D :D :D

[_Burn0ut_]

Took out the 3e today, ran on pretty wet grass and its everywhere now, the hub problem seems to be sorted.

Ive got some Traxxas big bores, the rears are the right length but the fronts are a little too long, to fit them, do i need to take off the bit at the end of the piston and switch it with the xt-r ones?

[xtr21]

Burnout,
I presume you are talking about shocks ? If so, yes, on the front you will need to swap the rose joint from the XTR shock to your new ones...........as far as I'm aware that's all that will be interchangable - not too familiar with Traxxas parts so I could be wrong..........

RC_Rocks Hi everyone. I just heard about the Desert Storm and am interested in gettign another ST. I currently have the HPI Rush. Is the Desert Storm just plain fast or is it also competitive and good for racing? Thanx.

Plain fast !!!!!!!??????? Just get one and bring a change of underwear my friend............................:cool:

[_Burn0ut_]

I have put the big bores on and they seem a bit strange, too dark to test it, but ill try them tomorrow to see how they are.

[carerra]

Originally posted by RC_Rocks
Hi everyone. I just heard about the Desert Storm and am interested in gettign another ST. I currently have the HPI Rush. Is the Desert Storm just plain fast or is it also competitive and good for racing? Thanx.

not sure if it's exactly race legal....not many other 1/10 trucks have a .21....

compared with a HPI Rush....this thing is gonna be mental fast.....think of it as going from a standard Honda Civic to a Chrysler Viper GTS-R

also, where as other 'race' trucks like the RC10GT have tons of aftermarket hopups, the only ones for the XTR are those produced by Schumacher

[carerra]

Originally posted by xtr21
I wash them with WD40, then oil then up with 3-in-1.
Same thing for my son Matt's skateboard bearings !!
I have to confess that it was my dad who got me into the 3-in-1 !!! He swears by it !!!
I've seen a rear bearing grenade during a race, taking out the complete hub...........hilarious to watch as the wheel flies off and overtakes the car, but not the way to win races................
The problem is that you have a metal bearing in a plastic hub/driveshaft assembly. If the bearing gets too hot something's gonna melt..........Keeping the bearings clean and lubricated ensures they don't run too hot, so they don't melt the surrounding parts. Simple as that.
:cool:


P.S. Parts delivery from Schumacher today...........so, rebuild number 2 on the EVO starts tonight !
:D :D :D



found a can of 3-in-1....says 'thick grade - special formula for chains and bearings'......is this the right kinda stuff??

also got a can of 3-in-1 'graphited penetrating and easing'.....it's rather runny though.....


just finished my new body.....stickered it up...just gotta remove the windscreen....will get some pics up, the paint looks well good....the pics don't do it justice...

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by xtr21
[...]
I've seen a rear bearing grenade during a race, taking out the complete hub...........hilarious to watch as the wheel flies off and overtakes the car, but not the way to win races................[...]

Um, that has happend to me in a real car...quite funny...sitting in the back seat, THUMP! "What was that?"..."Isn't that our rear wheel bouncing past us and into the woods?"...

That was from broken wheel nuts though...

/DCLXVI

[xtr21]

found a can of 3-in-1....says 'thick grade - special formula for chains and bearings'......is this the right kinda stuff??
That's the stuff Burnout...............go for it !!

Anyone interested in a "ready to race" EVO spec XTR ? (see www.xtrracers.co.uk for details of cars)
Will come complete with single speed TT gearbox, Twin fuel tanks, Venoms and full tarmac suspension set-up plus radio gear and servos.
£360 without body shell
£395 with bodyshell (choice available)

I should have one ready for Christmas so let me know if your interested.

[_Burn0ut_]

I tried out the Trx big bores today, the fronts were a bit too long so the steering was light, overall i think that the stockers were better for a grass set up, the backs seemed to lock up and were stiff to push down. All shocks were a bit too long so this is probably why they didnt perform.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Originally posted by cweimaraner
First time posting to this forum!

I just tuned in my new 3-Speed. HOLY #$#%!!!

I need to purchase an FM radio. About 2 seconds after the cars hits 3rd, I loose radio contact, and yes I have fresh batteries... the car is so fast it is unbelievable!

If your waiting for your 3 speed to arrive... let me tell you that is definately worth the wait.

AWSOME.

Jim

PS. whoever posted the exhaust tip (drilling 2nd hole out) THANKS! What a difference that made.

Whats the tip??? :confused:

[Liverpool-Lad]

Heres mine

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/dirty.jpg

[_Burn0ut_]

Liverpool-Lad - I dont know if the exhaust tip would work on ur dez storm as from what i can see, it looks like an 21XT. If it has an exhaust deflector, you drill out a hole in the chassis and twist the deflector so it points out of the bottom instead of blowing all over your rear right wheel causing bad traction.

I havnt done this yet as i think that as i do a lot of off roading, the exhaust could get clogged up and could even stall on landings from jumps.

However, a lot of people swear by it.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Ah yeah I see what you mean now...this is possible on mine but I havent tried it.

Have you ever tried the 90 degree racing clutches? Total pap I thought. Was going to upgrade to the 3 speed, but I need the TT transmission etc so will come to £80, Ill give it a mis I think.

Im running the car on an OS no 8 plug, what do you run with yours? Also fuel im using is Formula Irvine 10% synthetic (pink)

[xtr21]

Spend the £80.00 and get the 3 speed............................
It will be the best eighty quid you've ever parted with and the TT trans is "the dogs" compared with the original gearbox.

I'd suggest you give Blue Thunder fuel a go as well - 10 or 20% works well with the XTR. I run BT 10% with a Model Technics F4 or F5 plug depending on temperature.

I guess from the picture that you run mainly off - road?
3 speed might make you a tarmac terrorist !!!!!

[_Burn0ut_]

My plug is still the original and has lasted a long time (touch wood), im using 20% BT, but did use 10%, i keep saying that the TTR engine is very very good.

Good spell in the grass again today, 3 spee still looks fine (touch wood), i took some pics, u should see the amount of grass that built up. Ill get them up soon.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Doh, the £80 does put me off a bit but it does seem tempting. TBH Ive had the car for 12 months bought secondhand and have had NO problems whatsoever with the transmission...I should really check it :eek:

The only problem I can see with the higher top speed is the space to open the thing up...Id need an airfield and a better radio than the Techniplus I have at the mo :)

And yup the engines seem bombproof, excellent!

Also, any ideas where to buy these stick on lead weights...?

http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_d31b1e20a530f419c3f9fc373281db5a/i-3_B_L.JPG

[Liverpool-Lad]

.

[carerra]

think apex models may have those weights - give them a ring to find out.


as for the 90* racing clutch, don't bother....supposed to be a hassle to put on and doesn't last all that long...

still using the original plug on my car too.....working good for me

suffereing from a gross excess of power over traction at the moment....running vee2's on the rear, and having lots of trouble getting them to hook up, especially sine the 1/8th cvec joined the party. Things are really gonna kick off when i crack open my new bottle of BT 20% race mix!!!

[Liverpool-Lad]

I was thinking that or maybe a car tyre place? I did buy the 90o clutch a while ago and it was pap, stopped wheelspin tho...

Im running the V2s, the same as the ones in the above pic...I think Ill have to try some of those Roadhawgs. Are they a hard compound?

I did try some Holeshots and although they were very grippy were too soft and ended up being cut up as the arches on the bodyshell ate into them due to them being so flexible :(

I quite like the idea of the exhaust above, does anyone know what tubing it is?

[_Burn0ut_]

Roadhawgs are of soft compound if ur refereing to proline ones.

Woah that dez is shiny, i cant remember the last time mine looked like that.

[carerra]

proline tryes come in two compounds....

M3 = soft
M2 = normal

been toying with the idea of getting some proline Gladiator 2 tyres in the normal compound....

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/large/8170.jpg


look rather good IMO

[Liverpool-Lad]

Hmmm yeah I think theyre the ones. Do you think Ill have the same problems I had with the Holeshots?

Nice car aint it? Ebay for 195 buy it now.

[carerra]

if ya get the Gladiator 2's (pic above) in the normal M2 compound you should be ok....if your after a set of rubber for exclusive road use then i suggest the schumacher venoms....work real good for me....not bad off road either (when too lazy to change), though not so good on grass:)

[Liverpool-Lad]

Cheers, are they standard prices? Something like £12-14 usually.

[carerra]

yeah....prolines are about £14 a pair.....the venoms are £12....but the prolines come with foam inserts whereas you need to buy them extra (£4 a pair) for the venoms....

[mam]

I recently purchased an XTR-3e and have found it to be a great car. I have just done the exhaust mod and fitted Venoms. These are yet to be tested, but they should stop me spinning out under breaking on the car park.

I am going to my LHS to poor some cash into my car and am looking at the following mods, can anyone recommend parts please?

Purple annodised shocks (Front + Rear)

Purple annodised adjustable turnbuckles

Cvec pipe? - I noticed that a car had this fitted behind the engine (Not EVO spec), does the standard shell still fit without modification?

The rest of my parts will probably be Schumacher.

I'll post pictures once hopped up...


Thanks in advance.....:cool:

[ohyeahbaby]

i got a cvec and the shell fits, just need to cut a hole in to top or have exaust stubs comin out da back of the shell.

[Westie]

mam

You may find the upgrade reviews on our website useful. Bear in mind they are only our personal opinions on the Schumacher upgrades though.

http://www.nitrocrazy.com

[carerra]

i got the 1/8th scale cvec pipe......as it's narrower, but longer, it can be mounted in the position of the existing pipe without any mods.....you just gotta cut a gap in the shell for it to stick out...

as for the purple anodised shocks....i got the alloy shock bodies then bought the purple end caps seperately....dunno if it worked out cheaper.....they look better....though as a performance upgrade it's hard to say.....i'd reccommend the spring tuning packs though (5 pairs of front and 5 pairs of rear)

[bignitropower]

Here's a place that sells the 21XT-R 3E and other Schumacher stuff in the U.S. http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/XTR.htm . Now if we can just find some more companies to make aftermarket products for Schumacher RC stuff. Anyone know if there is a company, besides Schumacher, that sells aftermarket accessories for the XT-R 3E (in the U.S. or anywhere)?

[carerra]

as far as i know there aren't any companies that make propper aftermarket bits like wishbones...etc...

there are however people who make bits and bobs for the car like rear bumpers and 1/8th scale road racing chassis (see www.nitrocrazy.com and www.xtrracers.co.uk)

if its aftermarket bits your after and schumacher don't make it themselves then your best bet is to see if bits from other manufacturers fit...

the hop-ups by schumacher, in my opinion are all you'll need and in my experience aren't too expensive either...

[vsnakebytev]

WOW what happened to this thread? TTT

I am in the process now of getting my 3E back together, I gottheratchet from Adrian @ schumacher so, I will be back on track, and having a blast!

[Liverpool-Lad]

Just stripped the diff i my car, one the right is a new diff pulley, on the left the standard one!

The ball bearings were kinda moulded into the plastic (first time Ive had a chance to strip down the car since Ive had it - over a year ago now :rolleyes: )

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/diff.jpg

[xtr21]

Liverpool-Lad
You need a TT gearbox my friend, get used to stripping your present gearbox down because you're going to do it a lot !!!
If the diff doesn't explode again the belt will snap and take out the diff with it - trust me, I've wrecked three non TT gearboxes in 15 minutes before !!
Put that 3 speed upgrade on your list for Santa and kill two birds with one stone............
And guys, the 21 upgrade in my son's Thunder Tiger EX10 is almost complete. Just the linkages to do and we can go play !!!
Anyone interested in the Schumacher Nitro BTCC series for XTR's with venom tyres that they are just about to announce ?

[Liverpool-Lad]

Odd! Im not sure what the problem was but the car was generally running fine since Ive had it (ran approx 5 litres of fuel through it)...and before it was stripped, was just slipping a bit :eek:

[honestly2k]

I have just bought a 3E i cant believe they r this fast its 2 weeks old and have bought it for 200 bukz from e-bay is that a good buy?? it look smart as f**k!! cant wait to get it read this thread and am gonna change the exhaust pipe so it doesn't spray oil on the tyre but am not too keen on drilling a hole in the chassis so prop just gonna do what is above in the pic, Wow thats a clean xtr!! are the gear boxes really that bad?? are the weights on the front needed?? i like the weelie part that looks like fun!!!

[Liverpool-Lad]

£200 sounds like a pretty good deal, how old is the car, did it have all radio gear and starting equipment.

What fuel are you using.

The lead weights help keep the front end down, hence less rolling.

The gearbox...well Im assuming thats hardly ever been stripped before I even bought the car so I think its about time some bits were renewed, just general wear and tear really.

[xtr21]

good news !!!
The gearbox in your XTR-3e is the uprated TT type so you'll be OK.
I should have made myself clear in the earlier post - the pre-TT gearbox was fragile in that it had a thinner belt and diff pulley.
If you didn't totally rebuild the internals after a failure, it would soon self-destruct again...........but the TT is virtually bulletproof (unless you're shadgrind, who seems to be able to destroy most parts of an XTR; sorry Neil)
Good price too, I picked up a 3e about 2 weeks ago on ebay for £205 and was well chuffed with that. Check out our site at ; www.xtrracers.co.uk to see what can be done for tarmac racing.

[honestly2k]

this is the guts.. Is this a stock car?? coz i was told it had a few upgrade parts??
Is it good to use after run oil???
What do i clean the car with??

[honestly2k]

this is the guts.. Is this a stock car?? coz i was told it had a few upgrade parts??
Is it good to use after run oil???
What do i clean the car with??

[honestly2k]

Wow u guys r quick to reply
I havent go the car yet but am eagerly awaiting its arrival
Sorry for the repetitions!!!
Im using Dynaglow 16% and have already got a cordless drill its sitting asll excited getting charged up on me cabinet
the car is practicly brand new the owner didn't like the speeds it has reciepts for the 2nd 11th!! (02) i was impressed!!

[ohyeahbaby]

From the pic i can see the mods are adjustable stronger turnbuckles (which is always gud) and it has a different air filter(not sure it will improve performance) u gotta damn gud deal.

ENJOY DA BEAST

[Liverpool-Lad]

Are they the standard XTR airfilters? How is acceleration with the 3 speed - better than single speed? Also try and keep those wires from battery - receiver from the exhaust manifold incase they get frazzled...

Also, I think the tyres on the front work better on the back and vice versa.

Fuel sounds fine as its based on synthetic oil which is what is recommended.

[honestly2k]

I dont know what the acceleration is liike i havent got it yet but atleast i know im getting a good deal i got stung bad on my last nitro (sandmaster ahhaha)
yeah im gonna sort out the wires how have u lot done it???
Thanks for the info

[honestly2k]

Im not bothered about air filter cos i dont think they differ much between em i have got a k&n anyways, have any of you got one?? do they fit without cuttin holes in body??

[Liverpool-Lad]

How much are the K&Ns? I doubt they will make any difference to performance, in fact I think someone removed theirs. They just look better. It should fit under the body OK.

[honestly2k]

the k7n worked out at 21.50 (inc postage) i think i dont want it to be under the shel it looks too good to be not seen!!! get one from rchopups.com i think i got mine off e-bay from rc hopups i thought it was a good deal

[carerra]

just a few things you may like to know...

i had a k&n with the shiny chrome cap.....looked the mutts nutts....took it off though as the rubber neck ripped from me over tightening the jubilee clip.....have hear motorsaver airfilters are supposed to be pretty good...

www.apexmodels.co.uk have k&n's which work out at about £19 inc p&p...

can't belive the guy sold his car cos it was too fast??? was he some kinda wimp?? why'd he buy it in the first place?? it says in huge writing on the box ' the worlds most powerfull 1/10 scale car'....what was he thinking???? madness......all the better for you though.


the foam filter you have on the car does not look standard....the standard one is made by Thunder Tiger, and is an rubber oval....like a cake tin, but with a foam top.


dynaglow 16% is fine....stay clear of any other modeltechnics brands though like Duraglow or quickfire as they contain too much crap and will gum up the engine....Bluethunder 20% is also pretty good...

what voltage is your drill?? i got a 12v cordless and i think it's only just able to start my car....schumacher says it needs to spin to at least 550rpm to fire up....

as you've bought the car pretty new do ya know if it's been broken in properly?? i'f not then it won't harm to run it rather rich for a few tanks anyway - to make sure.

dunno how much you know about the rear diff but if ya find the car isn't wheelieing much...then ya might wanna tighten up the diff....worked for me.....will also make it last longer as less diff slippage means less heat and longer diff life....



anything else just ask....


couple more things.....try wrapping the battery leads around the rear shock towers.....looks neater....stops them getting in the way...

and ya might wanna invest in a Venom temperature gauge....avaliable from apex models.....you wrap the lead around the engine head and it tells on a little screen what the temp is....ingenious.....good for tuning/maintaining engine :)

[Liverpool-Lad]

Any idea how much those gauges are? Ta

[carerra]

paid about £30 for mine...seems alot but then people pay £120 or whatever on an infra-red hand help temp gauge....the venom has the benefit of recording in *C and *F and stores min and max temps...handy if your runnin the car around and wanna see how hot it's got

[Liverpool-Lad]

Thanks for the reply. Sounds good, Im using Model Technics Formula Irvine 10 in my car, is this OK? seems to be performing fine. Also got an OS # 8 glowplug.

[carerra]

dunno much about glo plugs so can't help there...just using standard plug which has help up for 3 months so far....do know that by altering the temp of the plug i.e cold plug, warm plug...etc...you are advancing or retarding the ignition....big engines like .21's need a colder plug.

as for formula irvine...good stuff as it contains Klots techniplate oil and has a total oil content of about 18%....though is a bit more expensive....you

myself, i'm just using the last of my 10% dynaglo fuel, then it's time to crack open the bottle of 20% bluethunder racemix!!!! what a time of year to do it too....my poor car is already finding it hard to get traction.....though the immense low end grunt provided by the 1/8th .21 cvec doesn't help....

[Liverpool-Lad]

I think the fuel is 16.50 a gallon which isnt too bad...20% should make a nice increase :)

Hmm the Cvec...would you say it makes a lot of difference?

Never knew that about the glowplugs, very interesting, does anyone else have any knowledge of them?

Cheers.

[carerra]

most of the people on here have the smaller .21 cvec avaliable from tower hobbies in america....kinda by mistake i got the bigger 1/8 scale big cvec for the .21.....lucky in a way though as it fits where the old pipe goes and doesn't touch the flywheel like the smaller(but wider) pipe does....inside there is a sliding piston which opens gas flow holes depending on exhaust pressure.....theres a pin which governs how far the piston can slide back....this pin in my pipe has 4 settings....i have mine set on the 2nd lowest setting so the piston can't move as much and still noticed a big increase in bottom end - first time i put it on my car and maxed the throttle it span its wheels for 35' up my drive...no wheelie....just full on wheel spin...it's an asphalt drive too - haven't yet changed the pin position as i'm happy where it is...


if ya wanna get a cvec...and don't mind the longer pipe (you gotta cut a bit of body shell where the drivers door would be) then let me know and i'll give ya the details of a great place from where to order...cost me £39.....the smaller one from america retails at $54 but i believe you gotta pay import duty...etc



as for the glo plugs...read more in the articles section of www.rcnitro.com

[Liverpool-Lad]

Thanks for all the informative help there...

My email address is a1@blueyonder.co.uk

Im in 2 minds whether just to get the TT and 3 speed though :rolleyes: hehe

[carerra]

i've only got my car soon after the 3e came out so the single speed models were going for slightly cheaper....it's got the TT diff but not the 3 speed 'box'....don't think i'll change to the 3 speed myself as i drive mainly off road....plus i don't really know anywhere where i could rip it up at 70mph....

i've pretty much maxed mine with upgrades...just a few alloy bits left to get...

if you mainly do off road stuff then consider just the TT box as it'll probably make things cheaper in the long run....i'e replacing exploded/melted belts or balls...

and as for doing the 3 speed upgrade....it's entirely up to you....50mph is fast enough for me anyway, but 75mph does have greater bragging rights.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Yeah the car does seem quick enough already like you say, any more and if I roll it, itll be curtains ;)

I think If I did get the 3E id need - a better radio, and also a failsafe possibly!

[carerra]

get a fail safe anyway...picked up mine for £15.....shuts the throttle and puts on full brakes if it looses a signal from the transmitter, if it gets interference or if the reciever battery drops below 4.4 volts....works every time.

yeah a crash/roll at high speed will be well bad....XTR21 has already crashed heavily twice (i think) - writing off chassis in the process...

after tighening the diff on mine to get it to wheelie more....i was gunning it down the road, it wheelied towards a curb at high speed, clipped the curb, cartwheeled about 9 times and rolled a further 8.....only a rear turnbuckle and a plastic bolt on the wheelie bar broke!!!

[Liverpool-Lad]

I think a failsafe is a must now, Ill pick one up aftre rebuilding the diff.

Only problem ive had with mine is on a slippery carpark, braked and slid into a kerv, the battery tray was mushed and the back end of the chassis was in a 90 degree v shape - a big hammering later and was OK ;)

[carerra]

ooohh...nasty....have a nosey around on www.nitrocrazy.com ....someone is offering steel rear bumpers....should stregthen up the rear a bit....

was hooning down my drive, braked late, hit some slippery moss...caught a wall and ripped off completely the rear left wheel & hub....had a spare hub which was lucky ....

you got the e-start on your car??? if not think about getting it....makes it slightly faster as theres less drag on the crankshaft.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Nope no ezstart, I see the idea, do you need any kind of adaptor or does it connect straight onto the crank (the drill that is)

Ive no no troubles starting the car.

Heres how my car usually looks

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/one.jpg

and how it is now...

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/two.jpg

The diff

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/three.jpg

and to add iunsult to injury a sandmaster engine im trying to get running properly!

http://www.andy-m.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/four.jpg