View Full Version : Schumacher Nitro 21 Xtr Desert Storm
honestly2k
11-12-2002, 07:03 PM
So a failsafe device is essential then?? i dont really know anything about the car as i have not got it yet
I have a 9.6v drill from argos it was about £9 it does 500rpm i have been told this is sufficiant but if not yet more money to be spent i suppose, cant wait to get some purple stuff in the 3e!!
Liverpool-Lad
11-12-2002, 07:06 PM
Well not essential, but if anything goes wrong there goes your £200 car into a tree or oncoming car or something :eek:
honestly2k
11-12-2002, 07:30 PM
im not gonna use it near cars , right near my house is the old track where they raced rc cars but its not being used and theres not actuall a track but just a very very large open space which is great and ideal!! just hope me drill is powerfull enuf!! and hope me car comes soon
honestly2k
11-12-2002, 07:31 PM
whats the servo save like can you not tune it so it lock the brakes??
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 03:50 AM
The spring on the throttle servo doesnt do a great deal, it isnt strong enough. Maybe a useful upgrade would be a hi torque steering servo if it hasnt got one.
xtr21
11-13-2002, 04:20 AM
Guys, read your posts regarding the K&N air filters and have a pice of advice for you...................DON'T BUY ONE !!!!
Save your money for something else, the K&N filter actually restricts power and causes tuning problems - mines in the bin !!!
Stick with the standard filter supplied with the kit and just keep the foams clean. It really is the best filter for the engine.
Thanks for reminding me about my two big crashes Carerra, and Liverpool-Lad, from the pictures you posted after your crash, it looks like your chassis is bent at the rear - I have a brand new standard chassis if you are interested. I also have a set of brand new standard kit tyres if anyones interested - we don't run off-road so I don't need them.
Still haven't finished putting the EVO back together. Partly due to the weather and also due to putting the .21 in Tom's EX10 which should be a blast when we run it - bit like a single speed Fusion !!
It will either blow everything away with its 4WD and HPI racing slicks or grenade the diffs and gearboxes due to the extra power !!!
Just had a thought about what you could spend the money you dont buy a K&N with on.............get a decent fuel tank instead 'cos the standard XTR ones are rubbish and you need to maintain a decent fuel pressure for these babies to really rock. I've got a Thunder Tiger EK4 buggy tank in mine and it's superb - no pressure problems at all.
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 04:25 AM
Nah its not bent, its just how it was before the crash, theres a U shape to accomodate the battery tray. Not sure if its different on the XTR model.
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 04:27 AM
I wouldnt mind some tyres :) How much? Cheers.
BTW how much was the tank - and do you have to make any mods for it to fit? Thanks.
xtr21
11-13-2002, 05:16 AM
Yeah, the xtr chassis is the same - it just looked damaged in the pic (must be my eyesight)....
The tyres you can have for £18.00 - they are brand new and never fitted. Schumacher sell them for about £24.00 for 4. I actually have 2 sets available so how about 8 tyres for £30.00 ??
As it's nearly Christmas I'll throw in some surprise xtr bits as well.
Let me know.
xtr21
11-13-2002, 05:17 AM
Sorry, forgot the fuel tank.
£10.99 from Sussex Model Centre
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 05:19 AM
Just to confirm are they the pinspike tyres and the vee 2s? (4 of each)
Cheers. :D
xtr21
11-13-2002, 05:27 AM
yep, straight off a standard xtr - one set brand new, the other almost brand new.
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 05:36 AM
Sounds good, but bear in mind I have the XT, does the £30 inc postage?
xtr21
11-13-2002, 05:48 AM
Postage would be an extra £5.50 - I'd send them by courier from my work. Think I may have the parts to convert your XT to XTR spec as well - it's basically the wheel hubs that are different. If I have them I'll chuck them in so you can run some decent wheels !!
honestly2k
11-13-2002, 07:17 AM
So k&n's r that bad well ill try it on my car first i might aswell coz i have had the k&n for ages!! shame to waste it so does the xtr 3e have a standard hub fitting?? what wheels am i restricted to??
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 07:19 AM
The XT wheels have a 4 prong circular type connector on them, does anyone know what the XTR looks like?
xtr21
11-13-2002, 07:27 AM
OK, just to clear things up..............
The XT has small quadrant type wheel fixings similar to the XTR but weaker, and has wheel bolts not wheel nuts. The XTR has a more substancial 4 quadrant fixing. You can only get the new chrome and white wheels for the xtr.
Everyone clear now ??????
honestly2k
11-13-2002, 07:34 AM
okey dokey so we r limited 2 1 type of wheel in 2 colours, which there was more variety ike wheels n body shels
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 07:38 AM
Thats strange as the XT used long hex bolts to fix the wheels on, does the XTR have a stub axle?
xtr21
11-13-2002, 07:43 AM
yep......stub axle and normal wheel nuts on XTR
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 07:46 AM
The XTR sounds a lot better than the XT, Im tempted to sell mine and get a 3e :D
carerra
11-13-2002, 01:26 PM
Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
The spring on the throttle servo doesnt do a great deal, it isnt strong enough. Maybe a useful upgrade would be a hi torque steering servo if it hasnt got one.
i upgraded my steering servo...had a futaba 3003 originally, upraded to a Hitec Hs-525MG 5kg/0.13s (£32)....this never worked, kept glitching so i sent it back and got another futaba servo....except i went a bit mad and ended up getting a Futaba S9402 5 pole coreless motor, duall BB's, alloy gears, water proof dirt proof 8kg/0.10s....cost £75...owch.
What spring combo's are people running front and back????? Anyone using a Nicad reciever pack???
Liverpool-Lad
11-13-2002, 03:08 PM
Just checked on mine, its a Futaba S3401 steering servo. I use rechargables all round, in receiver and transmitter. Springs Im using the blue ones both ends.
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 11:10 AM
Right diff is all back together after buying some diff grease and screw, seems fine now - a lot smoother ;)
I picked up a failsafe at the modelshop too.
GWS FS1. The shop said I needed a Y lead, whats this for As Ive connected the input to the failsafe from the servo and the output from the failsafe into the receiver, Ive tested it and it works fine without the Y lead...any ideas?
Cheers.
xtr21
11-14-2002, 11:22 AM
Someone's talking out of their A*** at your LHS.
I have the same failsafe fitted to my Big 6 and you have installed it perfectly, it goes inline between the receiver and throttle servo - the only time you may need a "Y" lead is if you want to fit a system or battery checker into the circuit.
One thing to remember with failsafes is that they only work if the radio signal fails or you suffer a voltage drop from the batteries - if you lose power completely they won't stop a runaway. I've seen an XTR throw out it's batteries from the back compartment and then run away at top speed towards the nearest immovable object.
Carerra asked about set-ups.
I run Black springs front and rear (on front shocks both ends), a Tamiya High Torque servo saver, Futaba 3004 ball bearing servo for steering, and 4.8v rechargable battery pack.
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 11:24 AM
Fecking lead cost 6 quid too :(
Ill have to take it back.
Yup unless you have a spare battery, if it goes, thats it :(
I suppose some redundancy is better than nothing though.
Is £15.99 about average price?
xtr21
11-14-2002, 11:52 AM
That's just what I paid.......one thing about the battery packs too.
If you use rechargables, don't put them in the standard battery holder that comes with your radio gear. I stick them together and solder the connections, then solder on the lead from the pack with the plug on and wrap the whole pack in heatshrink. The problem with the battery cases that come with the radio is that they don't make great contact with the cells and can cause problems when recharging - plus the heatshrinking makes them pretty waterproof too !!
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 11:54 AM
Ah, this pack is an all in one affair encased in red heatshrink.
Ive put some foam around it and a good tight wrap with insuation tape and then a balloon.
carerra
11-14-2002, 12:42 PM
i got the gws failsafe too....cot me £15.99....
XTR-21...
how come your only running 4.8v reciever pack??? surely a 6v pack would give your servo's more torque and speed them up??? i've been running 6v since day 1....need it especially since getting the S9402 servo....
as for the Y-Harness...will i need one when my Venom system checker eventually arrives from apex??? or couls i connect it inline with something???
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 12:48 PM
Im just wondering where to mount the failsafe - on the edge of the servo tower perhaps? double sided pads? :confused:
carerra
11-14-2002, 12:57 PM
theres a pic of mine a few pages back.....stuck mine on the back of the reciever using sticky pads and a little superglue....then just tidied up the leads...
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 01:08 PM
Cool, cheers.
Just found some velcro tape and used that after using a solvent to get the oil/crud off the servo :)
Also I tried to order the black plastic exhaust tip, this wasnt in as apparently it has no part number...!
Is there an alternative tube I can use as Id quite like to do the mod a page or 2 back, the pipe sticking out od the back.
Ta!
carerra
11-14-2002, 01:47 PM
the black exhuust tip comes in U2054M along with the metal arm fixing bit and silicon exhaust coupler...
alternatively take a look in your local hardware shop for some tough tubing...
xtr21
11-14-2002, 06:22 PM
Carerra,
The only reason I run a 4.8v pack is that I make them up myself and I don't know if my Futaba chatger will charge a 6v pack. It says 4.8v output on it so I've just bottled out of adding an extra cell to the pack because of that. Mind you, I don't have any battery problems on 4.8v (touch wood), and with a tarmac spec EVO you don't want too fast a steering servo either - it just causes oversteer. I could do with a parachute though !!!!
Liverpool-Lad,
You can buy the silicone exhaust tubing from most LHS, and have you made any decision about those tyres yet as I could do with some funds for a new set of venoms !!!!
And guys.............do you know anybody who wants to buy an XTR ? Either in standard or EVO spec, with radio gear and glo-starter. Single speed TT version. Looking for around £220.00 in standard kit format - the EVO price would depend on spec required.
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 06:26 PM
xtr, can you mail me and we'll sort this out, Id forgotten about it...
a1@blueyonder.co.uk
Cheers.
Liverpool-Lad
11-14-2002, 06:31 PM
Oh and if anyone wants a brand new Y adaptor please let me know :rolleyes:
carerra
11-15-2002, 01:30 PM
you using the futaba Rx/Tx wall charger??? the one with 2 leads - a round one for the transmitter and a flat one for the reciever????
says 4.8vRx and 9.6vTx
if so i got the same charger....charges my 6v 750mAh fastrax pack to about 6.5v....well according to my digi multimeter anyway...
LL - how much u want for the y-adaptor??? may need it when my sys checker eventually arrives
Liverpool-Lad
11-15-2002, 05:08 PM
Dunno carrera, it cost £5.99 and its still in the wrapper. Have you got anything to swap for it?
carerra
11-15-2002, 05:15 PM
Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
Dunno carrera, it cost £5.99 and its still in the wrapper. Have you got anything to swap for it?
i got an old bic biro i could swap?????:D :D
i'll have a root around my box tomorrow and see what i can find....u want a futaba 3003 servo??
Liverpool-Lad
11-15-2002, 05:21 PM
Umm - not sure, lemme know if you have anything else! Cheers
honestly2k
11-15-2002, 05:56 PM
I have a Futaba Megatech Junior and was wondering if it is able to charge batteries with it as it has a jack but does nt say anything in the booklet as would be great to charge 8 at a tie instead of 4 and how long would i charge them for. and how much range would i get??
You can get a y lead for £4.65 from modelsport
honestly2k
11-15-2002, 06:56 PM
Should be gettin me xtr b4 weekend nxt week i cant wait am soo excited!!!!
carerra
11-16-2002, 06:32 AM
Originally posted by honestly2k
I have a Futaba Megatech Junior and was wondering if it is able to charge batteries with it as it has a jack but does nt say anything in the booklet as would be great to charge 8 at a tie instead of 4 and how long would i charge them for. and how much range would i get??
You can get a y lead for £4.65 from modelsport
if it has a small circular hole on it somewhere then you can use a charger...take a look here... http://www.apexmodels.co.uk/catalogue/futaba.htm ....it's the one in the 'accessories section' ....'tis the one i have.
as it's only a trickle charger you gotta leave it over night...i charge my reciever pack for about 16hrs but the light on the charger goes out way before then so i don't know exactly how long....
as for range??...dunno...is it a FM or AM transmitter??? obviously the more fully charged the batteries are then the further the range will be.
honestly2k
11-16-2002, 07:26 AM
ok thanks trickle chargers are good they help the batteries life last longer so they can keep charge better but £15 for a charger u can buy multi voltage + multi pin chargers from argos for a £5 any way thanks for the info
Liverpool-Lad
11-16-2002, 07:28 AM
Are they chargers or adaptors though?
carerra
11-16-2002, 07:46 AM
Originally posted by honestly2k
ok thanks trickle chargers are good they help the batteries life last longer so they can keep charge better but £15 for a charger u can buy multi voltage + multi pin chargers from argos for a £5 any way thanks for the info
will the argos one though charge at the correct amperage or have the right connecters??? had a mutli voltage jobbie myself but all the connectors on it were round......not good for charging a reciever pack
Liverpool-Lad
11-16-2002, 07:50 AM
Ive got a dual charger for mine which is pretty nifty, does both the receiver pack and the transmitter handset at the same time :)
nuespeed
11-16-2002, 11:55 PM
What are the differences between the XTR 3E and XTR? other than the 3spd:confused: .:D
Liverpool-Lad
11-17-2002, 04:51 AM
Nothing I believe!
roeler
11-17-2002, 10:14 AM
the wheeliebar is standard on the xtr3E
carerra
11-17-2002, 11:59 AM
Originally posted by nuespeed
What are the differences between the XTR 3E and XTR? other than the 3spd:confused: .:D
3e aparently also has the alloy diff outputs - the things prone to meltage....cost about £14 as an upgrade for the XTR
fundugee
11-17-2002, 07:11 PM
I am new to the world or RC and would really like to get an offroad truck. I am looking for one that can catch some massive air off huge jumps and was wondering if this was the truck for me. It has incredible speeds and quick acceleration compared to anyting in its class. The aspect i am worried about is the durability and control. When air born is it hard to control? How sturdy is it made? Which parts are most likely break? I would like to get a truck that i can take to my local motocross track and clear some of the 50+ foot jumps. Would that be a possabiltiy with this car or any car for that matter; or am i just dreaming? Any input would be much appreciated.
nuespeed
11-17-2002, 07:39 PM
Originally posted by fundugee
I am new to the world or RC and would really like to get an offroad truck. I am looking for one that can catch some massive air off huge jumps and was wondering if this was the truck for me. It has incredible speeds and quick acceleration compared to anyting in its class. The aspect i am worried about is the durability and control. When air born is it hard to control? How sturdy is it made? Which parts are most likely break? I would like to get a truck that i can take to my local motocross track and clear some of the 50+ foot jumps. Would that be a possabiltiy with this car or any car for that matter; or am i just dreaming? Any input would be much appreciated.
I have a feeling 50 ft jumps are in your dreams:rolleyes:. This truck acan easily however do at least a 10 ft jump
fundugee
11-17-2002, 07:50 PM
I dont mean 50 ft high, but 50ft far. Anything can do more than 10 ft far. Going about 35 mph on a dirt bike i can clear a 65 foot double easily. It is obviously physically possible to clear such a gap if the truck does over 70 mph, I just want to know if the truck will smashed to crap after its done landing, and if i would have any control while its flying through the air.
xtr21
11-18-2002, 04:10 AM
You can have all the control you want with an airbourne XTR............................................If you fit some wings and a propellor. Seriously, though, that's a pretty extreme stunt you want to pull and I would expect any truck to take some form of damage on landing unless you get it 100% perfect (and that's down to pure luck over that distance). The xtr is probably the only truck that has the speed to make a 65 foot jump but the sheer velocity you need will make anything pretty uncontrollable in mid air. I think you'd only be looking at minor damage though as the XTR is pretty robust. Good luck - I think you may be slightly crazy but what the hell - go for it....................
carerra
11-18-2002, 06:26 AM
i think you'd need to make some suspension changes too....the front shocks are rather short and best for on road action really....
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 06:32 AM
its a lot of money to be throwing at 70 over stupidly large jumps going at stupid amounts mph and getting stupid amounts of air,
another thing on ur dirt bike you controll the jump, you pull out of the jump as the car will just go at the angle of the jump so it might not get the angle propulshion??? (**** im confused!!)
i gonna shut up now
fundugee
11-18-2002, 10:18 AM
look, im a complete newbie to this "sport". I have never even seen an R/C truck in my life (except online in pictures and videos). I have only one intrest in getting one of these, to jump it. Now mabey 65 feet is a little extreme, but that is theoretical. I just want to know, based on any of yiou guys that own this truck, hwo durable yoiu think it is and how well it handles; from responses so far, it seems not too good. I have seen a video were a guy jumped 3 cars and was well above 15 feet high. The distance was at least 40 feet and he landed it perfectly. I think he had an rc10gt. All I want to know, is such stunts possible on an xt-r? Mabey i should go with the savage......
xtr21
11-18-2002, 10:35 AM
OK, seems we're giving you a bit of a rough ride unnecesarily.
Probably our passion for the xtr that makes us a bit "anti" towards the other trucks and we're probably not taking your interest in extreme jumps as seriously as we should.
Basically, the xtr is, as Schumacher quote, the fastest 1/10 th scale truck in the world and, as enthusiasts, that's what we love about it - the raw power and speed of the thing. I'm certain that it wasn't designed for the kind of treatment you want to give it and it may not be the best truck for huge jumps. But to fly 65 feet will take the kind of speed that only an xtr can deliver and the landing and control is down to the skill of the driver. I'd still suggest you get one, because even if it doesn't jump and land the way you want it to, you'll still spend every minute of every drive you have with it grinning from ear to ear because it really is that much mental fun. The only downside to it here in the UK is that no-one has put together a race series for XTR's yet, although Schumacher are rumoured to be announcing a nitro BTCC series for next year.
Good luck with your choice and if you fly anything 65 feet.....video it and let us see it.
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 10:51 AM
i havent got my xtr yet and i already love the thing i would say get the xtr coz its stupid fast and would fly like a paper aeroplane and land like a brick!! it will be mental fun though!! shame theres no dirt tracks near me coz thats what i want to do with mine would uprate the shocks though they seems to be weak from what others say
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 10:51 AM
i havent got my xtr yet and i already love the thing i would say get the xtr coz its stupid fast and would fly like a paper aeroplane and land like a brick!! it will be mental fun though!! shame theres no dirt tracks near me coz thats what i want to do with mine would uprate the shocks though they seems to be weak from what others say
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 10:54 AM
in the first thread it says about am radios and dont get fm why is that is it because of interferance?? whats wrong with fm??
carerra
11-18-2002, 11:03 AM
Originally posted by honestly2k
in the first thread it says about am radios and dont get fm why is that is it because of interferance?? whats wrong with fm??
the other way round....FM is better than AM....FM gives longer range, less glitching...etc
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 11:07 AM
ahh i have an am i think whats the futaba mj 2pckh or summit like that
carerra
11-18-2002, 11:09 AM
Just wondering if anyone has had to change the Piston & liner on their XTR engine yet???
not sure if i have to on mine yet but am certain that the flywheel is easier to turn now than it was about a month ago...
performance may of dropped off slightly too but not totally sure...
Only run about 1.5 gallons of 10% dynaglo through it so far so it shouldn't of lost compression yet, should it????
If i do have to change the piston & liner, anyone know how to do it?? how easy is it?? what tools might i need??? any websites detailing the process??
thanks
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 11:21 AM
yeah thats loss of compression if you have a pull start you should be able to pick the car up by the pull start without flywheel moving that means it has good compression go here its detailed highly detailed havent read it yet but looks easy and normal tools needed
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/index.asp
go here on page 2 it has how to rebuild ur engine so when compression goes worse rebild it!!
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 11:23 AM
but there is a page on piston liner
xtr21
11-18-2002, 11:27 AM
It's a doddle to do, you just have to remember to put things back in the right order.
1. Take the cylinder head off.
2. Remove the exhaust manifold and pull start and backplate (or e-start if fitted)
3. Rotate the engine by hand so that the piston rises and the liner lifts up. (If it doesn't lift up, gently persuade it with a screw driver)
4. Remove the liner from the block.
5. Remove the piston and con rod from the block ( you need to slip it off the crank) noting which way it faces - the oil hole in the rod usually faces in towards the block.
6. I recommend replacing the conrod at the same time as the bearing wears at the crank end.
7. Fit the new piston to the conrod ensuring that it faces the same way as the assembly you removed.
8. Refit the conrod/piston assembly to the crank (pass it down through the block and connect to crank - you may need to turn the crank a bit to do this.
9. Fit the new liner to the block - there's a locating pin so you cant get it wrong - slide the liner over the piston carefully.
10. Refit the cylinder head and other bits (don't overtighten the head bolts - you will snap them)
11. RUN THE ENGINE IN AS IF IT WERE BRAND NEW ON RICH MIXTURE.................
xtr21
11-18-2002, 11:28 AM
Be surprised if you done the liner in such a short while though....How much performance do you think you've lost ?
xtr21
11-18-2002, 11:33 AM
Oh, and you don't need to remove the engine to do it either.......
carerra
11-18-2002, 12:17 PM
Originally posted by xtr21
Be surprised if you done the liner in such a short while though....How much performance do you think you've lost ?
dunno....changed the pin on my cvec to up the performance....but i just got a 'feeling' that it's just not performing 100%.....it could be other factors though...it just may be the carb needles but i've been playing with the car most of the day and haven't been able to get it spot on.
there still is some resistance in the flywheel......but i can spin it about 45degrees before i get any real resistance.
might have a look at the clutch and gloplug too....
ran out of 10% fuel today too so i'm gonna have to crack open my new bottle of 20% blu thunder race mix.....see how things go.
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 12:27 PM
if you run the engine real hot then it cools down real quick the piston and liner may distort causing loss in performance
carerra
11-18-2002, 12:35 PM
just seen this in a RCNitro article...
• SYMPTOM. Your engine is hard to start and idles poorly as it warms up, and it’s hard to keep it running. You’ve already tried changing fuel and/or glow plugs (or any of the usual remedies), but nothing worked.
• CAUSE. Your engine is no longer able to draw enough fuel into its combustion chamber because its piston and sleeve are worn and the seal between them is poor. This leads to a loss of compression.
On a new engine, the piston/sleeve fit is very tight. This good seal helps to draw air and fuel into the engine when the piston travels upward. But when the piston/sleeve fit is worn, the vacuum under the piston is reduced, and that makes it harder for the engine to draw air and fuel from the carb.
thats definitely not happening to my engine....starts and idles fine....hmmmm....maybe it's something else.....would an airfilter oversaturated with filter oil perhaps cause a problem??? cleaned my filter last night but am sure i didn't put to much oil on it...
honestly2k
11-18-2002, 01:55 PM
thats in extreme cases yours might have just started to wear
xtr21
11-19-2002, 04:06 AM
Carerra,
Are you running a K & N filter ? If so, swap back to the standard filter and try that. You will definately notice a loss of performance if your filter isn't flowing maximum air. I junked my K & N and went back to the standard filter and got the power back immediately. I'm sure that your piston and liner isn't the problem.
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 06:12 AM
im gonna run mine rich 4 ages b4 i get used to the power if its not gettin enuf air it will also overheat wont it??
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 08:14 AM
Well this year I get close to $500 for my birthday what should I get the Savage or XTR/XTR 3E (what I'm leaning on) but a hobbyshop In my area has a XTR but not the 3E and doesn't know when it'll be in stock :mad: :mad:. Geez my cell phone bills are skyrocketing :mad: I call them very day but the same answer"Sorry we don't know":o :confused: :eek:. :mad:. If I can't get those cars tell me another good one
xtr21
11-19-2002, 08:22 AM
nuespeed,
I'd suggest you contact Schumacher direct and explain your supply problem to them. They can be pretty helpful. If the single speed XTR is your only option at present, it's still a wicked machine, and you can always upgrade to a 3 speed later on - providing the single speed model is at a price that makes it worthwhile getting, of course. Have you tried shopping on the net for a 3e ? There was one on EBay USA a while back, might be worth a look. Good luck and rest assured, it will be worth the wait !!
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 09:21 AM
I don't like web shopping I've been ripped off on ebay several times
xtr21
11-19-2002, 09:31 AM
Must be different stateside then, cos E-Bay over here is superb. There are a couple of XTR-3e's on your EBay as well at good prices (I checked). They are brand new so I can't see what could go wrong ? Your call at the end of the day though - can you buy from Schumacher USA on their website ?
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 09:36 AM
id say buying on the net is better if u have the spendolas i have just bought my 3e from e-bay and the bloke thats selling it to me has stopped e-mailing and is not returning e-mails, funnily enuf its straight after he recieved the check!! need good contact to feel secure but the check aint to clear for a couple of days so ill save the paranoia trip for later in the week! im just gonna sit here all excited till (hopefully) it arrives!!
I would get xtr 3e just coz it is wiked fast!!
Is there a conversion to make it 4wd?? or could it be done that would be cool
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 09:38 AM
if your birthdays not for a bit tell ur lhs (with exsessive amounts of lairyness) to order you one for ur bday
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 09:42 AM
can someone post pics of the xtr shells you can get and the weelz n what tires r best for mud chukkin
xtr21
11-19-2002, 09:52 AM
You can request the telephone number of the guy who's selling you the xtr from ebay. How much did you pay for it ? What was his previous feedback like ? I'm sure there's no problem and it will be shipped as soon as the cheque clears, but I'd give him a call just to ensure the cheque has arrived. I've bought a 3e and a Big 6 from ebay with no probs at all....................
You can only get two types of truck shell from Schumacher for an XTR but you can make loads of other shells fit if you cut them about...........can't really advise you on dirt tyres as I run the Venoms for tarmac only racing.
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 04:43 PM
i know hes got the check and his feedback is good i juist wanna know if the cheque has cleared and if hes sent it!
Will t-maxx's body fit coz i want some old (57 ish) hot rod ford truck style body, do i just need to cut it or will i need to get larger body mounts??
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 06:49 PM
The lhs name is ultimimate hobbies they carry the big 6 on line for sale the web page is ultimatehobbies.com
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 06:49 PM
The lhs name is ultimimate hobbies they carry the big 6 on line for sale the web page is ultimatehobbies.com
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 06:50 PM
Soory for the doulble post
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 06:51 PM
sorry for the double post
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 06:52 PM
Geez whaz up with my Pentium4 pc every time i click submit reply 2ice it does that :rolleyes: :cool:
honestly2k
11-19-2002, 07:07 PM
mine does that 2
who wanted the big 6??
nuespeed
11-19-2002, 07:45 PM
I said that's the only schumacher they sell online @ that site
honestly2k
11-20-2002, 04:51 AM
really
xtr21
11-20-2002, 12:06 PM
Try www.racing-cars.com (Schumachers site). I'm sure they will be selling the XTR online. It's a great way to buy parts as well.
honestly2k
11-20-2002, 01:30 PM
how come the schumacher web site dont work 4 me the spares page on all of the cars never load i get authorization error or summit
xtr21
11-20-2002, 04:48 PM
Sometimes the site is a bit wobbly................you just have to persevere with it. Mainly it's ok - I get 95% of my parts online from them and the service is great. Keep trying.
honestly2k
11-20-2002, 05:02 PM
yeah the site works for me now
but there are no pics of bodyshells on the site if any 1 has any pics of them if they can post them on the site!
xtr21
11-21-2002, 08:54 AM
Guys, need you all to do me a favour..........
Can all the UK XTR owners e-mail Schumacher and ask them what's happening with their proposed BTCC Nitro series for the XTR next year ? I think it needs a bit of customer pressure for them to take their thumb out of their ass and get it sorted. There's no other race series for the XTR in the UK so this one should attract loads of interest. I get the feeling that we don't "fit in" with the usual click of racers who have little battery powered toys, so it's about time there was a Nitro rebellion and someone let the XTR tarmac terrors out to play....................You can post on their "TeamTalk" forum on www.racing-cars.com as well.
P.S. Liverpool Lad - Venoms arrived this morning (nice one) your package will be shipped tomorrow (Friday) and should be with you on Monday. Cheers mate.
honestly2k
11-21-2002, 09:34 AM
yeah and can every one pester them to make some more shells and wheels aswell
honestly2k
11-21-2002, 12:51 PM
i sent a message to schumacher and got this back
Hi.
There will be a Nitro BTCC this summer, keep checking back to our website for more detailas soon.
Regards,
Schumacher
carerra
11-21-2002, 04:15 PM
Originally posted by nuespeed
Well this year I get close to $500 for my birthday what should I get the Savage or XTR/XTR 3E (what I'm leaning on) but a hobbyshop In my area has a XTR but not the 3E and doesn't know when it'll be in stock :mad: :mad:. Geez my cell phone bills are skyrocketing :mad: I call them very day but the same answer"Sorry we don't know":o :confused: :eek:. :mad:. If I can't get those cars tell me another good one
the single speed XTR is pretty damn fast as it is.... the 75mph 3e does have extra bragging rights but do you or are you really gonna use all that speed???
nuespeed
11-21-2002, 04:47 PM
I guess I'll use most of the speed I have plentiful of room
xtr21
11-21-2002, 05:29 PM
Hey carerra, you sorted out your performance loss yet ?
honestly2k
11-21-2002, 06:43 PM
i dont think ill use all the power of me 3e when i et it but ill give it a damn good go!!
honestly2k
11-22-2002, 03:39 PM
where will the btcc xtr races be held and what race is it on/off road
jpawson8
11-23-2002, 07:15 AM
I've just purchased a 2nd hand Nitro 21 extreme. The problemthat I am having is how do you prime the engine to start it? Usually I would put my finger over the exhaust and the the pull start a few time. When I do this no fuel moves from the fuel to tang. Any ideas.
Liverpool-Lad
11-23-2002, 07:36 AM
Take the fuel return pipe off near the tip of the exhaust that connects to the fuel tank and blow down it, you should see fuel go up the fuel pipe and enter the carb, another second or 2 then stop, then glowplug heater then pull start. should work fine
jpawson8
11-23-2002, 07:47 AM
Thanks Liverpool Lad, the problem is when I do this all I get is a few bubbles in the fuel tank. Does this mean the fuel tank is knackered?
Liverpool-Lad
11-23-2002, 07:51 AM
Possibly sounds like the fuel tank seals if it isnt holding any pressure.
honestly2k
11-23-2002, 09:49 AM
i woud give advice but alas i dont know anything about it
Liverpool-Lad
11-23-2002, 09:51 AM
Have you got the car yet honestly or has the guy stopped contact?
honestly2k
11-23-2002, 02:09 PM
no the guys a bender the money was taken out of my account tues but he was never bothered to check his account till today and he is supposidly sending it today so hopefully monday.
Thats the only thing i hate about e-bay Fu**en benders wastin yer time
nuespeed
11-23-2002, 02:55 PM
Hey honestly what kind of feed back ya gonna give him;) :p :confused: :rolleyes: :cool: :eek:
Liverpool-Lad
11-23-2002, 03:04 PM
If its was a chque is there some way to relcaim your cash?? :confused: :(
honestly2k
11-23-2002, 04:06 PM
i want to bitch him but ill probably give him good feedback if it comes on monday coz hiz excuse was his work was really busy and it might be true
honestly2k
11-23-2002, 04:07 PM
dont think i can get nething back coz he has cashed it already
The rc10gt bodies, will they fit on the xtr??
how much work will they need
Liverpool-Lad
11-23-2002, 04:38 PM
Damnit, I hope it works out for the best m8 :(
honestly2k
11-23-2002, 04:44 PM
yeah me to and thanks
honestly2k
11-24-2002, 05:26 PM
THAT BLOKE IS TAKIN THE EFFIN BISQUIT!!!
Ive just recieved a message late sunday night saying he hasn't been able to send the truck because the post office shut at 12!!
So far the cheque has been cashed and cleared for 5 days now.
so if hes not gonna take the fukken pisstols any more hell get his ass in gear and ill get it tuesday
nuespeed
11-24-2002, 09:59 PM
Once you receive the truck ask if he wants - feedback if he says ok give it to him. Or no give him 1 positive and all negatives about shipping
xtr21
11-25-2002, 04:12 AM
honestly2k,
I agree that this guy is taking the **** and you should have had the car by now. The main thing about feedback is that other people rely on it to decide whether to do business with the seller or not. So you should definately be honest and put your delivery problems in this guys feedback - would you deal with him again ??
Where is he sending it from ? Hope it turns up soon - we're all rooting for you now !!!
honestly2k
11-25-2002, 06:51 AM
Ok thanks guys!!
No i wouldn't buy ne thing off ghim again hes a jokmer and am gonna give him a positive about getting the truck but slag him off about his delivery and motivation on sending it!!
Y'see i have already got his feedback sayin im a good e-bayer!! so he cant bitch about me after i give him bad feedback
Since i scrapped my sandmaster havent been able to smell the lovely fumes of nitro im starting to get over the cold turkey bit!! i even tried to burn some in a pot to see if it was the same feeling but alas i just got some extra blisters and lost a goood t-shirt!!
But hopefully tuesday or daddy's gonna get told what that bad man has done!! he'll kick his ass!!
jpawson8
11-25-2002, 07:01 AM
Hi
I've managed to sort out the fuel problem. The o-ring on the fuel tank lid was missing. The previous owner of the car used to run Technics - Endurance Duraglo 16' . I used model technics qwik fire 10 for my first run and the following happened. Once started the car would not pull away and sounded as rough as s@#t. I leaned the engine by 3/4 of a turn and she pulled away beautifully. When accelerating above half throttle she doesn't want to know and either stalls or just gets rather lumpy. I am a novice with nitro engines and don't have any instructions, so any advice would be most grateful. Also when i'm accelrating i'm still getting smoke.
xtr21
11-25-2002, 08:41 AM
First thing to do is junk the Qwikfire fuel...........get some Blue Thunder (10 or 20%). The Quikfire is too oily for the XTR and will cause you problems. Next, the carb has 2 adjustment points - the low speed needle (screw head in the carb body), and the high speed needle (the one that sticks upwards). A good starting point is to have the high speed set at about 1 and 3/4 turns out form being fully wound in. The low speed should be just slightly out from being flush with the carb body. You say you leaned out the car but don't mention which needle you adjusted - I'd guess that you leaned the high speed needle and the car is being starved at high revs. Try starting with the settings as mentioned above and adjust from there - only make small adjustments at a time though, you'll be amazed at how little you need to change things to get it spot on. A bit of smoke is ok - but should only be apparent under acceleration not all the time. I'd start your setting up with a brand new plug as well, and make sure the air filter is nice and clean. Good luck and welcome to the world of nitro !!!
xtr21
11-25-2002, 08:45 AM
Hey Liverpool-Lad,
has your parcel arrived yet ???
honestly2k
11-25-2002, 10:23 AM
is there any st bodies that'll fit the xtr?? like the rc10?? anyone
Liverpool-Lad
11-25-2002, 10:39 AM
Yup, arrived about noon.
Wow, thanks for all the bits, I needed a battery box too :D :D
Many thanks
Andy
honestly2k
11-25-2002, 03:39 PM
ive been old that it would have been £20 to send the xtr so he paid for the 3-5 day postage Just inquiring how much has it cost any of you to send an rc car if you have
Liverpool-Lad
11-25-2002, 04:35 PM
Royal Fail wouldve been about £10 standard 1st class, however £20 sounds a bit dear for a courier though?
jpawson8
11-25-2002, 04:46 PM
Thanks for the advice xtr21. Much appreciated. Does anyone know how to convert the nitro 21 xtreme to the front wheeled long wheel base version. I've got some venom tyres and new chrome rims which rub against the bumper. I've noticed on most of the models pictures that the font wheelbase is longer than the rear which is opposite to mine.
carerra
11-25-2002, 05:23 PM
Originally posted by xtr21
Hey carerra, you sorted out your performance loss yet ?
not yet....been away for a few days so not been able to play with truck...
anyone seen the new Associated Monster GT???? they have it in the latest edition of RC Car Action....thing is, it has the same engine as the XTR... i.e it's a .21 made by Thunder Tiger....whats interesting though is that it has a pull start and hex start in one unit....theres a hole in the middle of the pull starter for the use of a cordless drill....like the schuie e-start....
don't need it myself 'cos i got a cordless drill but for those without...would be a usefull retro-fit...
rc man37689
11-25-2002, 06:29 PM
i think i would get a Team Associated Monster GT rather than a xtr3e. its bigger,stronger and 4 wheel drive and more
rc man37689
11-25-2002, 06:31 PM
another
rc man37689
11-25-2002, 06:33 PM
and 1 more
rc man37689
11-25-2002, 06:38 PM
....it has 2speed foward and reverse
honestly2k
11-25-2002, 06:39 PM
and the xtr being brittish would kick the tiny amercan balls off the truck coz of weight to power ratio (in a straight line!)
they should do a brittish flag or union jack that would look trick!
Liverpool-Lad
11-25-2002, 06:40 PM
Yeah, please dont teach us to suck eggs. :rolleyes:
xtr21
11-26-2002, 04:16 AM
jpawson8,
You got me confused with your reference to the "front wheeled long wheel base version", I thought the XT was exactly the same chassis set up as the XTR with just different hubs/wheel fittings. Can you post a picture showing the problem? I may be able to help you out with some XTR parts to solve the problem.
And hey, rc man37689 - this is a Schumacher XTR thread for proper extreme machines, if your favoured "Monster GT" thing can live with an XTR at over 50mph.........BRING IT ON !!!!
But we all know that in reality the "Monster" will only trundle around off-road and fall over if it tries to turn a corner at over 5mph................get a life - get an XTR.:cool:
Liverpool-Lad
11-26-2002, 04:18 AM
That lardy truck weighs 12 pounds too! :D Oh and yep the XT (which I have) is the same chassis, engine etc, apart from different hub setup and TT diff.
jpawson8
11-26-2002, 04:28 AM
XTR21
I'll get a picture when I get the new rims, as I had to order them from apex due to the fact that the fittings are different from the XTR. I put the venoms on some spare rear standard rims and fitted them to the front which rubbed the bumper on turning. Which is why I thought the wheelbase is shorter. I'm probably talking out the back of my ar~e. Is there anyone on here who knows where I can race this beast? I'm from basingstoke.
xtr21
11-26-2002, 04:40 AM
jpawson8,
if you want race off-road then you're in luck - you live right in the gang from Nitrocrazy's neck of the woods.
Check out the home of the "ChalkPit racers" at www.nitrocrazy.com although it seems to have gone quiet at the moment (no posts from westie or shadgrind for a while on this forum either).
If tarmac racing is your thing and you don't mind travelling down this way, come and see what the "xtrracers" are all about.
www.xtrracers.co.uk
We race in the Crawley/East Grinstead area at present, but are hoping to find a permanent venue where we can build a tarmac circuit and include lap counting etc. It's a bit quiet with us at present, partly due to an unofficial "close season" where we put the cars back together, but mainly due to the appaling british weather !!! Trying to control the ballistic missles that are XTR's in the wet is virtually impossible and usually results in some spectacular (and expensive) accidents.
honestly2k
11-26-2002, 08:44 AM
yeah and some good crashes when you do the destruction derby (is that you or the chalk pit? either way its mad) u mentalists
xtr21
11-26-2002, 08:51 AM
It's us - the xtrracers - who get involved in the destruction derbies. Not all of us though, just a couple of complete maniacs with more money than sense !!! I was a victim of a case of mistaken identity in one though.......and got some serious damage as a result !!! Normally, it's just hard and fast racing.
carerra
11-26-2002, 01:23 PM
anyone got the alloy front wheel hubs??? need an excuse to buy them.
honestly2k
11-26-2002, 06:19 PM
what r they a conversion so they fit standard wheels??
Liverpool-Lad
11-26-2002, 06:24 PM
Nah just basically standard hubs made our of aluminium :)
carerra
11-26-2002, 06:28 PM
look quite good though.....probs won't get them yet....as if i did get them, would want to get the front and rear alloy wishbones too....£90 :(
Liverpool-Lad
11-26-2002, 06:40 PM
Yikes! I suppose if you really thrash the truck over harsh terrain it may be worth it...I havent managed to break a wishbone yet (apart from stuffing the back end into a kerb) :rolleyes: :D
xtr21
11-27-2002, 03:58 AM
Alloy bits are just for show guys.....they look great and if you've got the spare cash - go for it. I wouldn't rate them as essential upgrades though, the wishbones do bend and twist, (although you can straighten them) and I have never seen any one break a front hub despite some major impacts. All down to personal preference really - I just feel that they are not worth the money.
carerra
11-27-2002, 07:58 AM
Originally posted by xtr21
Alloy bits are just for show guys.....they look great and if you've got the spare cash - go for it. I wouldn't rate them as essential upgrades though, the wishbones do bend and twist, (although you can straighten them) and I have never seen any one break a front hub despite some major impacts. All down to personal preference really - I just feel that they are not worth the money.
thats kinda what i'm thinking....if anything they'll make the car heavier....only broken a front wishbone once, from an impact into a curb.
how about the alloy engine mount? any good? aid cooling??
honestly2k
11-27-2002, 08:07 AM
WOWZERS got me XTR3e today JHEEEEZUS is quick, i new it'd be quick but until i run it i didn't know it was gonna be that quick took it up a field flipped it a few times all times landed back on wheels GREAT FUN!!! road it dont get enuf traction, dont think i got it past 2nd IT FLIES!! WOW im sooooooo impressed.
Didn't think it was gonna start up that quick but it did
Well worth 200 bukazoids just need funds for the coool alloy purple stuff and some venoms so i get traction
I switched wheels front to back the vee2's on back now god it gets good traction in the mud!!
WOWOWOWOWOWOW why didn't i get one of these b4!!
xtr21
11-27-2002, 08:57 AM
Congratulations honestly2k, we all knew it would be worth the wait.......pleased it's all sorted though.
Carerra, alloy engine mount - I like the look of this part, it must act as some form of heatsink which is good. The main thing is that you should be able to mod it so that you can use the alternative 3 speed pinions (you need to move the engine to align the gears if you change the pinion). One of those parts that's on my list to get at some point (funds allowing) but not a priority. I still think you should go the "EVO" route and put your name down for a "NazPak" bodyshell.....................
carerra
11-27-2002, 08:59 AM
now your really gonna start spending £££'s.....bet you'll be gettin a tasty little cvec for it soon.....reccommend a venom temp gauge avaliable from apex....good for monitoring engine temp...easy to run real hot without realising...
xtr21
11-27-2002, 09:05 AM
Just heard back from Schumacher regarding the eligibility of an "EVO" spec XTR racing in their 2003 Nitro series next year.
Apparently, the series is only for XTR's with their "Speed Secrets" modifications and Venom tyres............I reckon that they are worried that the "EVO" cars would kick their butts !!! Not what I would call customer support, even though we spend a lot of dosh with them........:mad: Have to cause some havoc with the Big 6 in that series then.................
carerra
11-27-2002, 01:20 PM
yeah, you've scared them....watch out for spies
this 2003 nitro series.....wheres it gonna take place?? sounds good...
xtr21
11-27-2002, 06:14 PM
Don't know where the venues are yet.........Schumacher are still dragging their a*** about announcing that.........Will definately be up for the Big 6 Nitro races though, along with Bernie and, hopefully, Paul from XtrRacers. That should be fun !!!!! Think I'll probably take the "EVO" along, even if I can't race it, just to see what sort of reaction it gets from other XTR owners. It will have it's new NazPak bodyshell on it then so should look pretty smart. Just started work on the new-look website ready to launch the new chassis and bodyshell package.......didn't realise how much stuff I have to cram into it - loads of work burning the midnight oil.
Got two "EVO's" in production as well !!!! No rest for the wicked.......:cool:
honestly2k
11-27-2002, 06:59 PM
with the "evo" is it easily modified to be on and off road coz i would like to make it like a road car but also love goin off road wiv it its just too fun if not im just gonna have to get another 1!!
xtr21
11-28-2002, 04:23 AM
The EVO chassis basically was designed to enable the fitting of 1/8 th scale bodyshells, so extends the wheelbase by 53mm. We set the suspension up so that the car sits as low as possible to aid handling on tarmac. If you retain the standard ride height it should go off-road quite easily - however, we haven't run one as a "dirt digger" so I can't say for certain how it would handle. It also depends on how much aggro you're going to give it off road - there's no doubting the strength of the standard steel chassis, but you need to avoid heavy impacts with an EVO chassis as aluminium tends to bend !!!!!
As you say, simple answer is to get another one and run one off road and one as an EVO...........(I just happen to have one for sale !!!)
honestly2k
11-28-2002, 08:23 AM
what en evo?? how much does it have the naspak?
xtr21
11-28-2002, 08:47 AM
Check out www.xtrracers.co.uk for details of what an "EVO" is......click the gallery or xtr build links.
The NazPak is a Nascar based 1/8th scale bodyshell which we are making at the moment. There will be various options available from; chassis or bodyshell only, through to the complete conversion package which will include chassis, bodyshell, decals and foam bumpers. Prices are yet to be decided, but expect something in the region of £25 for a chassis, and around £25-£30 for the bodyshell/decals. Complete NazPak will probably be around £70. Chassis's are available to order now with the bodyshell etc. expected to be ready at Christmas.
The new website will explain in detail what an "EVO" conversion entails, along with a list of upgrade Schumacher parts that are required. Hope that answers your questions.
xtr21
11-28-2002, 09:04 AM
honestly2k,
Just realised that you probably meant how much am I selling the EVO for ? (doh)
Depends on the spec required.......Currently it will be as follows;
EVO chassis.
TS4N Alloy shocks.
Single speed TT gearbox.
Fully rose jointed with turnbuckles.
Worn (but still OK) Venoms / White wheels. (+spare set of std kit wheels and tyres)
Twin fuel tanks.
Foam bumpers.
Radio gear included (27mhz Sanwa - almost brand new)
Good engine (recent piston/liner).
K&N air filter
£200.00
No bodyshell included (shells are available from Mantua Models for £25 each)
Included is original chassis, plus battery box/rear bumper/wheelie bar/rear shock absorbers.
It can be ready in about a week - I need to order a couple of parts to finish it. Will post pictures when complete.
carerra
11-28-2002, 09:07 AM
Big Problem!!!!!!!
think my compression is gone
flywheel is turning easier, an on the piston upstroke i can hear a gentle hiss coming out from the air filter!!!!!
things get worse!!!
tried to get the head off.....loosened 4 of the 6 top bolts(they seemed to be on pretty tight - saw some sparks when they snapped loose)
2 of the bolts will not undo....as in i tried, they 'snapped' an now my allen key just spins in them....could i take a hacksaw to the bolt heads??? or is the bolt actually threaded through the head or just into the case - if ya get what i mean???
if i cut the heads i wanna be able to just lift the head off but if the screws are threaded into the head then this is not possible....
help please
xtr21
11-28-2002, 09:22 AM
I had the same problem with Matt's cylinder head when I did his piston and liner.
If you've "cracked" the bolts, I would give the whole thing a good blast with WD40 and then try and undo them.
Are you using a decent allen driver ?
Can you force a slightly bigger allen key into the bolt heads - try an imperial one.
Is there dirt in the bolt head stopping it going right into the hex?
Failing that, you'll have to do what I did and drill the heads off. Just take a drill bit that fits down the hole in the head and is slightly bigger than the bolt head, take your time and carefully drill until the head is removed - it sounds more scarey than it actually is !! Once you've got the head off the remaining bits of the bolts can be removed with a pair of pliers. You'll need to buy a couple of new head bolts of course.
DO NOT go at the head with a hacksaw................
carerra
11-28-2002, 09:35 AM
fairly decent allen key....cost me about £5 in Focus....had the same problem when taking off the pull start back plate to fit the e-start....ended up uning a mole grips.....worked though.
think i'll try the wd-40 method first....
when you say drilling, you mean just drill off the head of the screw??
when replacing the piston/liner is there anything else which is good to replace at the same time???
xtr21
11-28-2002, 09:50 AM
Yeah, just drill off the head of the screws, you'll be left with the remainder sticking out of the block when you take off the head, which you should be able to remove with pliers.
I always replace the conrod when I do a piston and liner, it's probably not essential, but not too expensive and hell, the engines in bits anyway................Remember to take note of which way round the piston and rod go - you can refit them the wrong way round if you're not carefull.
format13
11-28-2002, 02:38 PM
its very possible, ive had two tanks on my max mt, just go and get a "Y" connector, but you have to make sure the tanks are on the same altitude and all of that, or one will drain quicker and will create HUGE bubble in the lines. have fun!:D
Originally posted by roeler
yes its possible
http://www.racing-cars.com/images/lotusnitro1.gif
Pumper
11-29-2002, 02:12 PM
I've been reading this thread a long time, and finally have taken some pics of my XTR 3E, So I figured it was a good time to register and post some pics of my truck...
http://www.lotownconceptz.com/pichost/RC%20Car/IMG_1307.JPG
http://www.lotownconceptz.com/pichost/RC%20Car/IMG_1308.JPG
http://www.lotownconceptz.com/pichost/RC%20Car/IMG_1309.JPG
http://www.lotownconceptz.com/pichost/RC%20Car/IMG_1319.JPG
Pumper
11-29-2002, 02:18 PM
Before everyone asks, yes that is the stock air filter. I just got my XTR 3E a month or two ago, and that is the filter it came with.
I took it out last night to a local shopping mall parking lot, which was totally empty (being that yesterday was Thanksgiving for all us Americans)...It was the first time I got to run my XTR flat out on pavement... OMG is this thing fast... I definitely need to get me a set of Venom tires so I can play on asphalt more often... :)
I did have my wheelie bar fall off last night from excessive wheelies...So I guess I have to fab something new up to take its place... I'll post pics when I come up with a better wheelie bar...
Liverpool-Lad
11-29-2002, 02:23 PM
Did you get a failsafe? Oh and try and get an inline fuel filter.
Pumper
11-29-2002, 04:03 PM
Both of those are on my shopping list...I just picked up a better servo saver, so hopefully my steering will improve dramatically after I install it...
vsnakebytev
11-30-2002, 01:21 AM
Does any 1 know of the Venom Fail safe? Is it any good? I am using a Kimberough servo saver and a digital servo for steering, so I am all set there... I also have a volt meter and a digital transmitter so I try my best to keep an eye on voltage and all that fun stuff! I still need to drill the hole in the chassis, I am a little nervous... For the CVEC pipe which should I get? The 1/10 or 1/8? What colors can I get it in?
Yes I agree! I am getting an off road 3E and a EVO chassis real soon after I buy another 3E........ I love this car! I am also getting the Fusion, I want to race my fusion against my EVO... Just a test to see which is really faster and better! I will post results when I am finished... It will take a bit though, we just got like 4 inches of snow today! so I may need to wait till I go on my trip to some where warmer and less snow.. worst case I wait till spring!
What do you guys think of putting screws in my tires for better traction on ice, and putting some in the front tires atleast to help it stear in the snow? I am also looking into putting Airplane ski's on the front wheels for the snow... tell me what you think.... Where can I get some water proofing stuff for my servo's and stuff to protect the reciever? Are there any tips for Snow and winter driving?
Thanks alot guys!
jpawson8
11-30-2002, 07:48 AM
Hi All
I've just fitted some venom tyres on to my 21 xtreme. As from previous posts you will know that I have had problems setting up my engine. Any how I started her up and she sounded pretty rough so I leaned her out and she took off. After a bit more leaning she was running pretty sweet. Here's the problem, now when I open the throttle she spins out to the right. Any ideas?
Liverpool-Lad
11-30-2002, 08:59 AM
Diff problems? I stripped mine down and it was a mess inside!
xtr21
11-30-2002, 10:38 AM
is your exhaust dumping fuel on the rear tyre ? most common reason for spinning if you haven't modded the pipe exit, if it's not that look to the diff...................:cool:
Liverpool-Lad
11-30-2002, 10:41 AM
I hadnt thought of that! I may try the exhaust mod... :D
jpawson8
11-30-2002, 10:52 AM
I have the rubber pipe mod going though to the back of the car. What will I need to look for when stripping the diff. Anyone got any instructions on how to do this?
Cheers
honestly2k
11-30-2002, 07:40 PM
mine also spins out directionally and doesn't wheelie either just spins but i crashed it and on the shock the screw bit that a pivot ball sits in where its screwed to the car snapped so i had to use a different 1 off a rs4 shock and had to drill the hole bigger but the shock sits lower and the spring is way loose so it puts my steering out bad had a few scrapes, sliding on the roof a few times caused the spoiler to rip off and tires dont last long do they!!.
when i try to start the car it bobs as the flywheel spins but sometimes it stops bobbing and when looking the flywheel doesn't spin then it starts to spin is this the 1 way bearing?? ill have to take it apart and clean it or replace it!!
But anyways as you can tell by the recent lack in posts by me ive had some action and i love the car!!!
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 06:49 AM
Originally posted by jpawson8
I have the rubber pipe mod going though to the back of the car. What will I need to look for when stripping the diff. Anyone got any instructions on how to do this?
Cheers
As long as you take it step by step and follow the manual I thought it was quite easy. Things you may need if you do decide to rebuild it are, silicone diff grease (pot), ball bearings, maybe diff screw/thrust bearing, I also needed a diff pulley as mine was mangled but I got a spare diff when I bought the car (phew).
PS What rubber pipe did you use and where did you get it from? Cheers.
carerra
12-01-2002, 12:40 PM
Originally posted by jpawson8
Hi All
I've just fitted some venom tyres on to my 21 xtreme. As from previous posts you will know that I have had problems setting up my engine. Any how I started her up and she sounded pretty rough so I leaned her out and she took off. After a bit more leaning she was running pretty sweet. Here's the problem, now when I open the throttle she spins out to the right. Any ideas?
if ya have turnbuckles on the rear, they may be set up wrong.....if one wheel has more camber than the other then you'll have a difference in grip levels, hence the spinning...
vsnakebytev
does the kimbrough servo save fit ok between the steering servo and the fuel tank?? i'm looking to get a tougher one myself as my steering servo (futaba s9402) easily bends the stock spring one....
jpawson8
12-01-2002, 01:23 PM
The problem I have is that I bought it second hand and I don't have a manual. Has anyone got one in PDF format that I could have. I stripped the car down last night but didn't have a clue what I was looking for. Before the car started spinning out I did have a little bump against a kerb. The suspenion seems fine.
jpawson8
12-01-2002, 01:26 PM
I have the 8 inches of rubber pipe from the exhaust running through to the battery holder.
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 01:27 PM
Is it the XT or the XTR? if its the XT I could take a pic of the pages and email them to you :)
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 01:28 PM
Originally posted by jpawson8
I have the 8 inches of rubber pipe from the exhaust running through to the battery holder.
What kinda pipe is it and where did you get it from :)
jpawson8
12-01-2002, 01:30 PM
It came with the car, I think there is already a photo of the same pipe on this forum, i'll take a photo if you want. By the way are you a toffee or a red?
I have the nitro 21 xtreme which I assume is the xt
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 02:13 PM
jpawson, mail me your email address to a1@blueyonder.co.uk and Ill mail you some pics of the manual in jpg format.
Is the tube yellow? Wouldnt mind doing that mod myself...
By the way, Im a Red - gutted :(
carerra
12-01-2002, 02:57 PM
Originally posted by jpawson8
I have the 8 inches of rubber pipe from the exhaust running through to the battery holder.
does this make the car any quieter???
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 02:59 PM
More importantly does anyone have an idea where I can get hold of some of this stuff!!!! :D
jpawson8
12-01-2002, 03:01 PM
I don't think so, it's still bloody loud
carerra
12-01-2002, 03:10 PM
Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
More importantly does anyone have an idea where I can get hold of some of this stuff!!!! :D
just go to B&Q and ask a greasy muppet if they have high temperature silicon tubing.....or try halfords or local plumbing centre...
jpawson8
12-01-2002, 03:16 PM
I'll email the previous owner to see where he got it from.
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 03:19 PM
Thanks guys :)
xtr21
12-01-2002, 04:11 PM
Most model shops sell the silicone tubing - Ripmax do it in a pack 300mm long..........
jpawson8 - I have a spare xtr manual. It's only for the single speed but I can photocopy the 3 speed info from the 3e manual if you want. Mail me your address and I'll send it to you.
Liverpool-Lad - I guess you would be a "red" and although I'm not, I am one of the thousands that wanted your lot to win today !!! Get a new keeper mate.................
P.S. Got 3 "EVO's" in production now........am currently living in the workshop !!!!
Liverpool-Lad
12-01-2002, 04:13 PM
Well I was at the Southampton Worth' Cup game a few weeks ago, I say give Chris Kirkland a chance, he did really well :)
honestly2k
12-01-2002, 06:15 PM
i downloaded the xtr manual of of racing-cars.com and they have the xt and 3e on download i have just attached a 8" tube for my 3e its made out of a hose pipe hehe ill see how its holds up!!
higgy1541
12-02-2002, 11:17 AM
I have just got my XT-R 3e and it looks amazing. I was just wondering, do you have to use blue thunder or dynaglow fuel that schumacher suggests? Is it ok to use other fuels?
xtr21
12-02-2002, 11:51 AM
You can use whatever fuel you like.............but Blue Thunder is the best. Other fuels tend to be too oily and can cause long term engine problems. Main thing is to run your engine in properly...I put about 10 tanks through at no more than half throttle and a rich setting before I lean it out and give it full power. We've tried Dynaglow, Duraglow, Quikfire and all the rest, and still reckon that Blue Thunder is the one to use - it runs cooler and gives good power. Run in on 10% and then go up to 20% if you want to.
carerra
12-02-2002, 12:25 PM
i use blue thunder 20% race mix....well i did untill lost all compression...:(
don't think it was because of the Blue Thunder though....
as XTR21 said, stay well clear of duraglo and quikfire....though you may also wanna give Modeltechnics Formula Irvine a go as it contains Klotz Techniplate Oil - which is one of the best lubricants avaliable....
Liverpool-Lad
12-02-2002, 05:27 PM
Formula Irvine fan here, £16.50 a gallon of contest 10 :). 18% oil.
The manual reckons to use a synthetic oil based fuel
higgy1541
12-02-2002, 05:32 PM
Just one more question. My bodyshell has not come with any window masks. Should there be some?
carerra
12-02-2002, 06:10 PM
Originally posted by higgy1541
Just one more question. My bodyshell has not come with any window masks. Should there be some?
nope....use masking tape....or nip along to your LHS and get some liquid mask....just paint it on and peel it off when your done...
vsnakebytev
12-03-2002, 04:51 PM
Carerra Yes the Kimberough servo saver will work perfectly fine with out any modification! I also am looking into using a T-Maxx fuel tank, just nervous about putting another hole in the chassis!
I am not sure if it will work with the maxx tank but it will fit with the stock tank...
I am hoping it Snows alot this week, so I can shovel some side walks and drive ways for more cash for the Schuie! I am planning on buying new rims and tires... the Cvec pipe... again which size should I get the 1/8 or 1/10? I also want to buy a Fail safe and Temp guage! I was looking into a fw accesories but I dont need them now, I am getting the Titan for X-Mas and I need to save up for radio stuff for that too.... I also intend on buying another 3E and an EVO chassis and a Nitro Fusion... lets just see which is faster... and which is better at Racing
Oh yeah I am using Wild Cat 20% Nitro, 20% oil for fuel... works GREAT!!!!
What do you think of the Venom fail safe and Venom temp guage?
carerra
12-03-2002, 05:33 PM
Don't suppose you know if it's the small or big kimbrough servo saver...reason for asking this is cos of enquired at apex models and they told me a kimbrough won't fit.....think i was asking for the bigg one though....
what kinda difference did it make?? can you adjust it
regarding the 1/8th pipes dunno if ya can still get them.....have a look around...heard that the slimer 1/8 pipe i have is an older design compared with the shorter fatter smaller pipe which is apparently newer (thats the one people on here have)....appparently they changed the design to allow it to fit on the T-maxx.....so the smaller pipe is avaliable either in 12-15 size or .21....
if you can get hold of either design then it's up to you...the 1/8 pipe will fit easily where the stock pipe goes, but the newer fatter ones one fit and need to be mounted behind the engine.....
as the 1/8 pipe is longer than the stock one you'll need to trim some body shell to let it poke out a bit.....i also put some rubber defectors (2 of the ones which come as standard) on the stingers to deflect oil/smaoke away from body/wheels...running like this i've had no problems...
with both pipe design you'll need to make your own pipe support mount....easy with a pair of plyers and a bit of tough wire(coat hanger)
regarding the venom temp gauge: i think mines great....make sure you turn it off properly as i didn't and ran the battery flat!! new battery wasn't cheap....after having mine stop working twice from getting wet i now keep it in a small clear plastic bag which i glued to the battery box.....no chance of getting wet now... if it does stop working or the screen goes funny, just open it up and rub the carbon bits on the bottom of the rubber buttons(you'll know what i mean if ya looked) and also the button contacts.....worked evry time for me
vsnakebytev
12-03-2002, 09:34 PM
As for the Servo saver... I dont know if it made much of a difference... I never tried it with the original one... I got3 magazines that had this car in it, and I read all the tips and RCCA had that tip in there... I dont recal the issue but you can get it on back order... I believe it must have been the small one then...
Thanks for the info on the pipes and temp guage! Any additional info from any one else would be greatly appreciated!
Hope this info works... if not pm me and I can tell you through there
carerra
12-05-2002, 11:40 AM
Just bought new piston/liner, conrod and tungsten diff balls from apex.....hopefully they're gonna arrive tomorrow and i can get my car back on the road....will be good as new.
thought as i was renewing the engine i'd get the diff balls too as the current ones are the stock chromo steel ones....
xtr21
12-05-2002, 11:54 AM
don't forget to run it in again !!!!!
carerra
12-05-2002, 11:58 AM
yeah that gonna be annoying.....3 tanks at rich setting should be ok huh???
what needle setting is best? i know they come out of the factory with the needles set for break in.....
Liverpool-Lad
12-05-2002, 12:55 PM
What diameter is the piston? Also how much were the bits.
A good few tanks with about 3 turns out on the main needle should be OK? As rich as you can get without stalling it really.
carerra
12-05-2002, 03:33 PM
Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
What diameter is the piston? Also how much were the bits.
A good few tanks with about 3 turns out on the main needle should be OK? As rich as you can get without stalling it really.
same as the stock piston....bits were £9 for the diff balls, about £35 for piston/liner and £14 for conrod/circlip and pin...
xtr21
12-05-2002, 06:02 PM
what's happening then ?........
There are FIVE xtr's for sale on EBay !!! I've never seen that many all at the same time - some silly prices though.
Two from the "nitrocrazy" neck of the woods - have the boys from the pit chucked it in ? Haven't heard from shadgrind or westie on this forum for a while and their website seems to have been neglected............ Just been and checked out the mould for our NazPak body as it's just come back from being laquered and I'm buzzing with exitement........it's awesome !!! Can't wait for the first polycarbonate one to come from the vacuum formers - pics here as soon as it's painted and fitted.
On the subject of servo-savers, the Tamiya Hi-torque one works for me. It's not too big either - about £9.00 I think. Can't remember the part number - sorry.
New xtrracers site is coming on well - will launch when pics of the "Naz" are available........
Good luck with the rebuild Carrera...........:cool:
honestly2k
12-06-2002, 05:55 AM
yeah i noticed there was a few on e-bay if any1 wants to donate a long turnbuckle for the front of me car as my friend smashed it !! and have not got enuf to buy that pack of however many there are!!
carerra
12-06-2002, 06:04 AM
you snapped a turnbuckle???? or just the plastic bits at each end??
Good luck with the rebuild Carrera...........
cheers, gonna need it.....tried wd-40 and 3-in-1 penetrating and easing oil.....yet no luck with removing head screws....gonna have to drill them.
xtr21
12-06-2002, 12:43 PM
have you tried tightening them slightly - then undoing them ?
This sometimes "cracks" them..........
honestly2k
12-07-2002, 03:09 PM
yeah the metal bit shattered and the plastric bits i didn't find!! unfukkenbelievable!! the bumber broke aswell but that was the only damage
carerra
12-07-2002, 04:12 PM
kinda lucky......you not have the original plastic tie rods which the turnbuckle replaced??
honestly2k
12-07-2002, 04:34 PM
yes if thats what they are they r pretty poor they dont seem to sit perfect on the balls though but i doo need a new set of fron shocks if any one has any uprated ones for sale??! and a new set of tires n wheels would like some venoms, how much r new wheels and tires??
carerra
12-08-2002, 08:13 AM
Originally posted by honestly2k
yes if thats what they are they r pretty poor they dont seem to sit perfect on the balls though but i doo need a new set of fron shocks if any one has any uprated ones for sale??! and a new set of tires n wheels would like some venoms, how much r new wheels and tires??
chrome wheels about £7 a pair (need to scrub off chrome to properly glue tyres though)
white wheels are £5 a pair
venoms are about £12 a pair though you'll probably need inserts too for road running....
inserts are about £4.50 a pair...
Proline tyres though are about £14 a pair but come with inserts and fit on schumacher rims....may be cheaper this way....prolines come in 2 compounds soft and normal...called M2 and M3 i think...
carerra
12-08-2002, 12:14 PM
Installed my new tungsten diff balls today - gave up on removing head screws yesterday as one is proving rather stubbon even with my new drill bit designed for metal!! - didn't want to go mad and do regretable damage.
opening up diff, find there is little silicon lube where it's needed i.e around the balls/ contacting parts - most of it's been flung to the side of the 'cage' and is providing no luberication....
thought i'd take a look at the thrust bearing too, rather surprised to find one of the grooved washers which surround the brass cage in 3 pieces....have no idea how this may of occured....was lucky though that i had a spare one....
tranny's all back together now...nice and lubed.....just gotta press on with the drilling of the last head screw (seemed to be doing fine then no amount of drilling would do any good - rather odd) - still got about 0.75mm of head showing.....gotta say the drilling ain't really helped the look of the head much, two of the holes are now visably larger.....
hopefully though i'll have the motor throbbing by the end of the week - leaving little rubber lines across garage floor....
higgy1541
12-08-2002, 04:37 PM
I have just got a 21 XT-R3E. I just wondered, does the engine come with the mixture set? Also is the engine the Thunder Tiger Pro 21 B-R(p)?
carerra
12-08-2002, 06:21 PM
Originally posted by higgy1541
I have just got a 21 XT-R3E. I just wondered, does the engine come with the mixture set? Also is the engine the Thunder Tiger Pro 21 B-R(p)?
engine comes in with the needles set for breaking in i.e rich setting - after about 3 tanks on this setting you can start screwing them in, to lean it up for the best performance.
as for the motor, you looking at the ThunderTiger engine leaflet which comes with the car??
think the motor is the PRO21-BX-R for pull start models (as mine originally was)
or as you mention the PRO21B-R for the e-start cars....
Anyone know what type of crankshaft this motor has??? SG...etc
notice TT do a 'p' version with a half threaded crankshaft, what ever that means....
higgy1541
12-09-2002, 03:47 PM
Another question. Can you fit the high speed pinion, which is available for the Fusion, to the XT-R3E?
xtr21
12-09-2002, 05:29 PM
You should be able to fit the pinion ok - the question is whether there's enough adjustment on the gearbox to mesh the gears correctly.......I don't know anyone who has done this yet and I think the engine mount on the fusion is slotted to allow adjustment. There's always a way though so go for it !!!
I've just ordered a set of HPI MT rims for Matt's "EVO" so the wheel adapters could be happening real soon - more as things develop.
And, hey Carerra.............you got that last head bolt out yet ???
xtr21
12-09-2002, 05:32 PM
don't waste your money on ProLines..............Venoms are "the daddy":cool:
Bandini
12-10-2002, 09:20 AM
I'm curious about part no U2402B - 3 Speed For TT Transmission. I don't have a truck, but I'm looking for a 3-speed tranny for a project.
A couple of questions;
What parts are included in the kit? Is it a complete tranny, or do I need other parts from a truck to complete it?
What pitch and number of teeth are the gears?
Liverpool-Lad
12-10-2002, 12:03 PM
Originally posted by carerra
same as the stock piston....bits were £9 for the diff balls, about £35 for piston/liner and £14 for conrod/circlip and pin...
Hehe I figured that but was wondering what diameter the stock piston is as Ive never taken the head off mine. :)
carerra
12-10-2002, 01:34 PM
Originally posted by Bandini
I'm curious about part no U2402B - 3 Speed For TT Transmission. I don't have a truck, but I'm looking for a 3-speed tranny for a project.
A couple of questions;
What parts are included in the kit? Is it a complete tranny, or do I need other parts from a truck to complete it?
What pitch and number of teeth are the gears?
errrm...
3 speed comes with gears (spurs & pinion)...etc and a longer shaft which enters the rear 'TT' transmission....
the tranny can be bought seperately or with the whole 3 speed assembly.....
heres a link to an exploded view of the 3E which should help
http://195.92.181.110:8090/upload/XTR3eExplodedWEB.pdf
as far as i know all the schumacher gears are 32pitch, not sure of teeth numbers...
carerra
12-10-2002, 01:39 PM
Originally posted by xtr21
And, hey Carerra.............you got that last head bolt out yet ???
na not yet, been away for few days, give it another crack tomorrow....really wanna get it done though as i got a lovely re-built tranny waiting for some action....is it hard fitting a new conrod pin and circlip as these are the bits i'm most concerned about...
might see if i can get some pics up of the re-build....
Liverpool-Lad
12-10-2002, 02:08 PM
Can you hack the bolt off from the side with a dremel or hacksaw maybe then twist it out the pliers?
carerra
12-10-2002, 02:22 PM
been thinking about doing that whilst away...bolts exposed for about 4mm between head & case....would have to make sure there's enough left showing to use some mole grips...
Liverpool-Lad
12-10-2002, 02:24 PM
Cut a slot in with hacksaw blade and unscrew?
I think I might need to take one of mine off in this way If I ever need to!
xtr21
12-10-2002, 05:41 PM
once you get the bolt head off (or cut the bolt) the remaining piece in the block will unscrew easily............the bolt head seizes to the cylinder head, not the thread in the block - that's why you have problems undoing them.
TOP TIP: when you have to remove head bolts make sure of two things
1. get a decent allen driver to undo them (don't use a std allen key)
2. clean out all the crap that gets in the bolt head so that the allen driver sits right down in the head.
I've had no problems since I got a decent allen driver and I suffered the same fate as carerra on more than one occasion before then......................
Oh, and for those who might be interested - the mould for the wheel adapters which will allow you to fit HPI MT rims is being made - reckon on about £7 or £8 per set of 4 adapters.
Got Matt's rims today - nice black mesh style - look wicked wrapped in venoms....................:cool:
Bandini
12-11-2002, 04:24 AM
3 speed comes with gears (spurs & pinion)...etc and a longer shaft which enters the rear 'TT' transmission....Looking at the exploded view, I take it that most parts on the spur side are included - shaft, gears, cams, bearings, washers etc. Do you use a oneway from the original spur?
On the pinion side, you say the gears are included. Does this mean you re-use the pilot shaft, flywheel, clutch bell etc?
The rest of the 'TT transmission' seems to be a diff that I won't need.
---
Late addition: I read in a different thread that the shift points on this 3-speed aren't adjustable. If this is true it's of no use to me.
carerra
12-11-2002, 11:04 AM
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
got the fecking head off.....gave up on drilling, seemed to of stopped working,
just cut the bolts below the head, luckily like XTR21 said, the remaining stumps in the case came out real easy by hand....
just gotta get the piston out now...liner came out real easy with the head (stuck together)....
article on RC Nitro suggests lubing the new bits when putting 'em in....is it ok to use 3-in-1 oil?? should be ok....
Liverpool-Lad
12-11-2002, 11:05 AM
Or some spare engine oil - what diameter is the stock piston - just wondering :)
xtr21
12-11-2002, 11:24 AM
Congratulations on getting the head off carerra - dont forget to make sure you refit the piston and conrod the right way round !!
A bit of 3 in 1 on the crank/rod connection should be ok - I usually run a bit of fuel in the liner to lube the piston.
Glad you're on the way back to full-on racing, don't forget that lovely running in period !!
BTW, I'll try and post some pics of my youngest son's TT EX-10 with it's .21 conversion this weekend........mental !!
Liverpool-Lad
12-11-2002, 11:31 AM
Pete - YGM.
xtr21
12-11-2002, 11:50 AM
Cheers Andy - Check it when I get home.......
carerra
12-11-2002, 12:06 PM
the piston is about 16mm in diameter
noticed that the new conrod i bought i different to the one i took out....took some pictures which i'll post up later...but a brief explanation, the edges of the conrod are more like a V i.e knife-edged rather than just square....there is also a groove running down the middle of one side to the hole in the base.
what way does the hole in the conrod face??? towards the flywheel or backplate??? forgot to check when removing.
carerra
12-11-2002, 04:55 PM
ok, few pics of the engine and components....
engine out of car, plasic bag sealed over carb hole to prevent dirt entering engine...
sparkly bits are metal shavings from head drilling....
carerra
12-11-2002, 04:59 PM
another one...
this is what i was confronted with when removing the head....the piston is a rather dark brown with one bit being rather black(normal???)...
carerra
12-11-2002, 05:04 PM
last one....
comparison of the two different conrods...
the one on the left (with piston) is the one i took out - notice the edges on it, not very efficient for cutting through a crankcase dense with fuel...
one on right is the new one....it's edges are cut at an angle to give greater efficiency...on it's other side theres a groove running from the top hole to bottom, i gather this is to enhance the oil flow around and into the oil holes (on other side too)
see below for pic - forgot to post it.
carerra
12-11-2002, 05:07 PM
here...
Liverpool-Lad
12-11-2002, 06:32 PM
Ive not seen a piston like that before, should be really clean - maybe its overheated or something??
xtr21
12-11-2002, 06:35 PM
Difficult to see from your pics exactly what state the piston is in - but there are a couple of checks you can do to prove that it is worn out.
Does the piston travel to the top of the liner easily ? it shouldn't reach the top without some serious effort.
Has the liner or piston got any marks which look like the combustion is "blowing by", or are there any scores on either part ?
I think the oil hole on the rod faces inwards............pretty sure about that - told you to check when you took it apart !!!!!
:cool:
xtr21
12-11-2002, 06:36 PM
Andy - YGM
:cool:
Liverpool-Lad
12-11-2002, 06:37 PM
Cheers
carerra
12-11-2002, 08:18 PM
Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
Ive not seen a piston like that before, should be really clean - maybe its overheated or something??
don't think it's supposed to be completely clean - should be slightly brown from castor oil/combustion deposits etc....just not black
inside of liner appears to be pretty clear.....old piston will slide to about 5mm from top of old liner easily....
no signs of 'blowing by'.... sides of piston show pretty even colouring....outside of exhaust port is pretty black too....maybe from the times i've exceded 300F...
got the oil hole sorted....went back to one of your (xtr21) old posts...you mentioned it there...
not got motor back together yet....decided to buy new head shim/glow plug, as it's worth changing them and the shims got some scratches on it - from the hacksaw i think...
xtr21
12-13-2002, 04:27 AM
should be able to post a picture of something pretty exciting later today...............no more details now 'cos I want to keep you guessing !!!!!!!
:cool: :cool: :cool:
carerra
12-13-2002, 07:58 AM
Originally posted by xtr21
should be able to post a picture of something pretty exciting later today...............no more details now 'cos I want to keep you guessing !!!!!!!
:cool: :cool: :cool:
wheel adaptors maybe??
xtr21
12-13-2002, 09:06 AM
wait and see...............
:cool: :cool: :cool:
Liverpool-Lad
12-13-2002, 02:34 PM
BTW Carrera...how much fuel had you ran through the engine to cause the compression loss out of interest.
Cheers. :)
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