Schumacher Nitro 21 Xtr Desert Storm

[carerra]

Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
BTW Carrera...how much fuel had you ran through the engine to cause the compression loss out of interest.

Cheers. :)


used 1 litre bottle of Dynaglo fuel which came with car....

1 gallon bottle of Dynaglo

about 3/4 tanks of Blue Thunder 20%....


i thought engine usually lasted like 4-5 gallons at least...

[Liverpool-Lad]

Yeah - thats quite odd...the engines are supposed to be tough.

I bought mine secondhand and have since run about 1 1/4 gallons through it, still really tight - can pick the car up from the pullstarter so compression is still good.

[carerra]

may of got some kinda dirt in the motor.....though no obvious signs of this...

[xtr21]

sorry about the delay...........power cut !!!

can you tell what it is yet ????

[xtr21]

want to fit these ?

[xtr21]

£11.50 for a set of 4 hub adapters plus replacement wheel studs - includes postage. Tested with HPI MT rims - will allow fitting of all std hex rims dependant on suitable wheel offset for XTR.

Production is under way now......................

[Liverpool-Lad]

Very nice...approx what price are the aftermarket wheels??

[xtr21]

the MT rims shown were £5.99 a pair - similar price to schuie wheels............

[higgy1541]

I have just got my 21 XT-R3E and noticed that the manual said to use blue thunder 10 or 16%. They say to use this because it contains synthetic oil. They do not recomend caster oil.

So i go and buy some blue thunder and i read on the side that blue thunder contains a ''synthetic/caster oil mix''. What is up with this?

[Liverpool-Lad]

Try and use Model Technics forumula Irvine which contains 18% techniplate synthetic oil. (£16.15 a gallon for 10% Nitro)

I guess the majority of the oil in blue thunder will be synthetic.

Have a look at www.modeltechnics.com at the different fuels.

[carerra]

Originally posted by higgy1541
I have just got my 21 XT-R3E and noticed that the manual said to use blue thunder 10 or 16%. They say to use this because it contains synthetic oil. They do not recomend caster oil.

So i go and buy some blue thunder and i read on the side that blue thunder contains a ''synthetic/caster oil mix''. What is up with this?

don't worry bout that....everyone i've spoken to says it's best to use Blue Thunder.....Apex Models reccomended 20% BT...

think a mix of castor/synthetic is ok.....just all castor is bit bad as it doesn't give good high engine speed protection...castor gives better low engine speed protection and synthetic gives better high speed...

edited to say: Formula Irvine fuel is pretty good...contains Klots techniplate oil which is very good...

[X-Tee Ha !]

I got one, I got one :D

Haven't finished/run it yet but I love the concept - .21 in a 1/10 truck !

I don't know the oil % in Blue Thunder fuel but Thunder Tiger recommend an 18% oil content for all their engines.

Unfortunately I have a gallon of Dynaglo 16 (16% nitro) which only has 8% synthetic oil blended with 2% castor oil, 10% total, far short of the engine manufacturers specifications of 18% yet the Schumacher user manual specifically RECOMMENDS Dynaglo as a suitable fuel for this engine (car) I guess they have tested it but I am a little confused?

Does anyone use Proline Dirt Hawgs with this car? The stock tyres seem a little on the hard side, I had Dirt Hawgs on an NMT which seemed a great all round compromise, excellent traction on/off road and long lasting eventhough pretty soft and grippy.

Probably wouldn't last too long on the back of an XTR though eh ? :D (Could swap 'em front to back though ;) )

Finally, what a great thread you guys have put together, thanks from a new XTR owner :D

X-Tee Ha !

[X-Tee Ha !]

I found it, it wasn't on the Thunder Tiger Homepage after all so I guess it's OK with the 10% Dynaglo lubrication, this is what made me wonder though:

"If you are running Italian based engines like Nova Rossi, Ops or Picco the right amount of oil in your fuel is between 10 and 12%.
For some other brands like OS MAX and Thunder Tiger the oil percentage must be higher according to the user manual. They state a minimum of 18%"

:confused:

[carerra]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
I found it, it wasn't on the Thunder Tiger Homepage after all so I guess it's OK with the 10% Dynaglo lubrication, this is what made me wonder though:

"If you are running Italian based engines like Nova Rossi, Ops or Picco the right amount of oil in your fuel is between 10 and 12%.
For some other brands like OS MAX and Thunder Tiger the oil percentage must be higher according to the user manual. They state a minimum of 18%"

:confused:

Hiya...welcome aboard....friendly people here...just post any problems you have and were bound to sort them...

you wann try some Modeltechnics Formula Irvine then...it has 18% Klots Techniplates oil...one of the best lubricants avaliable - bar KY jelly ;).......


not heard schumacher say anything abot 18% oil before...my manual just says to use dyna-glo or blue thunder...

regarding the tyres...i use vee 2's on the back and stagger ribs on the front for off road, and venoms for on road....



nearly got my engine back together, had to wait a week to get a new glo-plug (mcCoy mc9) and gasket set from apex (crimbo post)...cleaned it up, though still worried some unseen metal shavings from the drilled head may of got into the crank-case....flushed it out with wd-40 - so it should be ok.

is it wise to put some threadlock on the head screws or will this make it completely impossible to get them out in the future??

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Carerra

Thanks for the fuel info, I might get some of the Formula Irvine you mention. :D

I know that synthetic oil does actually "burn" that's why there is little residue whereas castor lubes the upper cylinder and cools better but passes through unburnt, hence the residue.

I might mix a little high castor just for the "run in" then use the Dynaglo as Schumacher recommend.

As for your threadlock on the head studs? - definately not :( Steel to alloy is the best possible combination for threadlock, especially Loctite "Red" After 24HRS the head studs will simply become part of the alloy block, they will shear before unscrewing ever again.

Just clean them and tighten evenly, turn them finger tight first then say an eighth of a turn each "go" in a diagonal sequence (top, bottom, 2 o'clock, 8 o'clock etc etc)

Double, triple, MEGA check non of the steel fillings have found their way into the engine, might be worth vacuuming the outside first :D Steel filings will ruin the engine in a matter of minutes, be a shame sfter all your work !

I'll try and post some pic's of my pride and joy :)

Cheers :D

[xtr21]

Good to see some new posts again here.........I thought everyone had gone away for Christmas.
Great news for Xtrracers - the NazPak body is at the vacuum formers !!!! Hopefully will have some before Christmas.
Fuelwise - I'm sure you guys are aware of my fondness for the Blue Thunder stuff. We tried all sorts of fuels over a 12 month period and the BT is easily the best and good value for money if you buy it by the gallon. I've been running 10% up to now but my next batch purchased will be 20% cos, " I feel the need......the need for speed"
Have a good Christmas guys - hope santa brings all the spares you want !!

[carerra]

few piccies of car...with new body...etc

it's not a 3E by the way...they are the stickers i got with the body...

sprayed Candy red using Parma Faskolor paints....then an undercoat with pearl silver...

[carerra]

front piccy....venoms look a little worn...front screen removed for better cooling...

edit to say:dammit.

[carerra]

here...

[carerra]

pic of back...note hole in rear, just below top of rear wing - was tring to get max air flow in and out of body shell, to stop heat building up under shell.

[carerra]

last pic...body off, note the cvec pipe running across chassis...paper towel is to cover the ends of the exhaust tips so no oil drips out....have fixed 2 stock schumacher exhaust deflectors to the cvec's stingers...

see how the front two holes on the cylinder head are clearly visable - this is due to the drilling.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Nice job Carrera, I've still got to decide on my colour scheme. I was going to exactly copy the silver/white with orange stripes down the middle Schumacher scheme but I haven't got the orange stripe decals with the XTR3E decal sheet :mad: (or the lower round "mean" headlights)

Did you have the striping with your XTR? the 3E seems very lacking in the decal department, I might buy the XTR decal sheet if it comes with the orange striping - I like the RAP 1D number plate too :D

How does your rebuilt engine run? Have you started her up yet?

[carerra]

they've changed the decal sheet...when i first got my car in july, it had all the normal decals....on the new body (in pics) it came with the XTR-3e decal sheet which thankfully are pre-cut(took ages to cut out originals)....but they are different....none have the stripes though...you gotta paint them yourself...

i masked the stripe areas on the inside of the shell....sprayed several coats of red, took off the masking tape then sprayed the inside silver, hence the stripes...

whatever you do, get yourself some nitro block spray.....just a sealant that you spray on last....protects the paint, makes it easy to clean....etc

[carerra]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !

Did you have the striping with your XTR? the 3E seems very lacking in the decal department, I might buy the XTR decal sheet if it comes with the orange striping - I like the RAP 1D number plate too :D

How does your rebuilt engine run? Have you started her up yet?

no striping on XTR...just plain red....when ya buy new bits from 3rd party companies they usually include decals too....my cvec pipe and RPM camber gauge did....

RAP 1D plate was off the original decal sheet.....don't think you can get tham any more....


not run engine yet....was raining loads today...didn't wanna run it in the garage as i'll probably end up killing myself from the fumes...

[Liverpool-Lad]

The carb on the engines, how is this fixed to the crankcase as my brothers appears to be loose, can only see a black allen bolt??? :rolleyes:

Cheers guys.

[tl01boi]

where can i get this car the cheapest at

[carerra]

yeah, think it's just a collar tightened by the black allen bolt.....card just slides into the hole...




Went to run in new engine bits today.....forgot to charge the bloody glo-starter....dammit

[charlyfarly]

Hi. I've had storm for 1 year and have never realy liked this model, I think it is too fast for the stock set-up. It cost too much money having to keep replacing parts. Just bought the HPI SAVAGE and think it is the bizz!!!!!!

[carerra]

too fast??....pah...not fast enough.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Parts? what has gone wrong or do you keep stuffing it into kerbs etc? :D

[xtr21]

Andy,
has your brother run the car yet ?
Pete

[Liverpool-Lad]

Yes - but the very loose carb is a bit worrying...has it taken a knock as its scuffed?

[xtr21]

The carb was replaced due to some tuning problems I had a while ago - which turned out to be the piston/liner in the end - the one fitted was a spare that one of the other guys gave me.
If you tighten the black allen headed screw it will be fine - they sometimes work loose (probably as a result of me cleaning it that it has). Did you richen it up slightly like I suggested ? It was tuned pretty highly - i.e. maybe a bit too fierce for your brother until he gets used to it.........
Haven't been out with mine for ages - it's always raining when I have some spare time at the moment. Hope to get out over Xmas at some point though - picking up the new bodyshells tomorrow so that should be cool.
I have found the spare pull cord and a couple of other bits, so I'll get them off to you after Xmas.
Have a good one.....and don't be too disappointed if your brother kicks your ass !!!!!

[Liverpool-Lad]

The problem appears to be with the carb itself Pete - where the allen bolt catches in it - seems to have flattened the surface hence the bolt cant lock on properly.

Yes richened it up a bit, like I said its great apart from this problem :(

[xtr21]

OK mate,
I didn't realise it was like that - I never had a problem with it.
I will get hold of another carb and send it with the other parts.......how's that for "after sales sevice" !!!

:cool:

[charlyfarly]

Liverpool-lad. do you have any trouble with youre truck thinking it's an aeroplane? a fisherman would be proud to own all the lead wheights i have tucked up front to stop mine from tacking off. Thats where all the damage as come from:D

[Liverpool-Lad]

I also have a couple Oz of lead on the front end ;)

[charlyfarly]

have u any other cars/trucks? Liverpoool

[xtr21]

If you want the ultimate road going XTR...........check out www.xtrracers.co.uk - these keep their noses on the ground as well (most of the time) !!

[carerra]

broke car in today.....ran about 3 and a bit tanks through at a rich setting, while giving it a bit more throttle each time....

definitly feels good as new at the moment, just a bummer the battery in my venom temp gauge has gone as it would of been rather usefull during breaking in...

couldn't run it about much as the rain started coming in rather hard...

[Liverpool-Lad]

Originally posted by charlyfarly
have u any other cars/trucks? Liverpoool

Fraid not m8.

However I did used to own a Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin and also a Panda Peugeot 405 with a Magnum 10 engine in :rolleyes:

[X-Tee Ha !]

Carrera, can you remind me where your Venom temp gauge came from? and the £££ ? I think you have mentioned it somewhere in this post but do you think I can find it?! (er... no :D )

Ta

[carerra]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Carrera, can you remind me where your Venom temp gauge came from? and the £££ ? I think you have mentioned it somewhere in this post but do you think I can find it?! (er... no :D )

Ta


got mine from www.apexmodels.co.uk cost about £29 but considering a new engine will cost ya at least £100 it's a worthy investment...

tip: put it in a clear plastic bag and tie the end....they don't react well to water....had to take mine apart twice and clean it due to water/dirt

[honestly2k]

XTR too fast?? more like u r too lame to handle the power the only way its too fast is if u have been wankin' it about loads n the tyres have been belted to the floor n then u get waaaay not enuf traction in the ice HAHAHA

[honestly2k]

XTR too fast?? more like u r too lame to handle the power the only way its too fast is if u have been wankin' it about loads n the tyres have been belted to the floor n then u get waaaay not enuf traction in the ice HAHAHA and so far have had it about a month and nothing (apart from the turnbuckle shattering and the plate that the shocks screw into snaping) the cars BULLET PROOF unless you drive it full speed into the rear tyre of a HONDA CD 100 HEHEHE


Really have to get some practice at stopping when in top end of 3rd gear

Sorry HONDA CB not CD

[tl01boi]

hey where can i get this car the cheapest i've been looking everywhere and i couldnt even find a place to buy it

[carerra]

where bouts you from??? no good recommending a place in england if your from america...

[carerra]

Cars back to rude health now....finished breaking in new piston/liner...

still amazed at the mid-range acceleration, like when you trundle it past ya, then burry the throttle....the speed at which it shoots off is awesome...

[tl01boi]

im from the united states in tacoma wa

[higgy1541]

Cant wait, im getting my XTR-3E Tommorow. Im gonna run 4 tanks at half throttle and then lean it out. This truck looks amazing . I cant wait to see how fast it is.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Cheers Carerra, I'll give 'em a try after the holidays.

Higgy, wot a nice crimbo pressie you are getting :D :D :D

Merry Christmas !

[Chestnut]

Happy Holidays to all, hope Santa brings you all new motors and stickier tires. We all have the need for SPEED.:cool: :cool:

CHESTNUT

[charlyfarly]

As i said yesterday i still think the Xtr is too over powered. I thought the brand name Xtr Desert Storm implied the model could be driven off road at something near the 70mph speeds as advertised. Only to find that Xtr will struggle with anything more rugged than a bowling green! Having now been restricted (lack of said bowling green) to my nearest B&Q carpark the monotomy of driving a £270 lead weight back and forth infront of bemused DIY enthusiasts as lead me to believe you lot are telling more lies than Saddam Hussien or you drive your Xtr like my daughter drives her remote control Barbie car!!!! The chap who proudly says he hasn't yet broken anything after owning his Xtr for a MONTH. Start driving your "extreme" extremely and start saving your money! and get a proper off-roader like a SAVAGE that can be drove "extremely" on any terrain. Have fun playing with your novel toy on the tarmac as i'm sure you have done today whilst I was bashing my savage in a muddy quarry today. ;)

[carerra]

Originally posted by tl01boi
im from the united states in tacoma wa


try here....http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/index.html

[higgy1541]

As i said yesterday i still think the Xtr is too over powered. I thought the brand name Xtr Desert Storm implied the model could be driven off road at something near the 70mph speeds as advertised. Only to find that Xtr will struggle with anything more rugged than a bowling green! Having now been restricted (lack of said bowling green) to my nearest B&Q carpark the monotomy of driving a £270 lead weight back and forth infront of bemused DIY enthusiasts as lead me to believe you lot are telling more lies than Saddam Hussien or you drive your Xtr like my daughter drives her remote control Barbie car!!!! The chap who proudly says he hasn't yet broken anything after owning his Xtr for a MONTH. Start driving your "extreme" extremely and start saving your money! and get a proper off-roader like a SAVAGE that can be drove "extremely" on any terrain. Have fun playing with your novel toy on the tarmac as i'm sure you have done today whilst I was bashing my savage in a muddy quarry today


I am going to be getting an XTR-3E tommorow. Do you agree with the views of charlyfarly. Is this car ''overpowered''? Do you think it can handle more than a ''bowling green''? I have seen videos of this truck, and it seems to be able to handle alot more than charlyfarly has said. And charlyfarly, if you dislike the car that much then sell it!

[Chestnut]

I've had mine for close to 8 months . I've replaced a lot of parts in the beginning but now I get a lot of good running days out of her before hitting something that will not move. I've run mine in the dirt but it's main job is straight line drag racing. Just set it up for the street today for this weekend we will be running them side buy side. Putting a ROSSI 145R21 Mararello in it after the first of the year. 3 horse 44,000 RPM . The need for speed . The real offroad is for the trucks. :cool:

[tl01boi]

hey thanks for the info i might get one this week

[charlyfarly]

Originally posted by higgy1541



I am going to be getting an XTR-3E tommorow. Do you agree with the views of charlyfarly. Is this car ''overpowered''? Do you think it can handle more than a ''bowling green''? I have seen videos of this truck, and it seems to be able to handle alot more than charlyfarly has said. And charlyfarly, if you dislike the car that much then sell it! [/QUOTE] Happy xmas Higgy, Enjoy Xtr (it aint that bad realy) ;)

[higgy1541]

I got my car today. Woo-hoo!!!!! I got it running (it was easy to start) and have run 3 tanks through it. Here are some pics:

[higgy1541]

Another:

[higgy1541]

Last one:

[carerra]

i see ya got what looks like a failsafe on it.....did you buy that before you got the car today?? or did it come with it??

[higgy1541]

I already had it. I origanaly had it in one of my other cars.

[higgy1541]

If you want some better quality pics here is my site:

http://community.webshots.com/user/higgy1541

[carerra]

any plans to modify bits yet? cvec? venoms? alloy bits?

[higgy1541]

Im getting some venoms on friday. and when i get some more money i am gonna get the alloy engine mount and wishbones.

[carerra]

recommend the rear alloy hinge blocks....a hard landing can break the stock plastic ones and end up making the rear wheel(s) point in odd directions...

[xtr21]

hey guys,
The "NazPak" has landed.............pics next week as soon as I get the decals sorted. This is one mean "sonofabitch".........be ready.
Hope you had a good Xmas.

[carerra]

Originally posted by xtr21
hey guys,
The "NazPak" has landed.............pics next week as soon as I get the decals sorted. This is one mean "sonofabitch".........be ready.
Hope you had a good Xmas.

is it based on the standard chassis or is it like the 'EVO' spec car with an extended chassis???

[higgy1541]

I have just finished running in my car. I took it out on my street for a proper run. The speed was slow and it didnt wheelie. I thought, this isnt so good! Then i checked the mixture screw(which i thought was factory set) and it was 3-4 turns from fully in. So i reset it to 2 turns out from full. HOLY CRAP!!! This thing is hugely fast and wheelies at every opputunity, even going into second. I have yet to get it into 3rd. Im gonna give it a proper test on grass soon.

[carerra]

yeah, the stock needle setting are rich for breaking in....where you got the low speed needle set?

[higgy1541]

I have left the low speed needle, it seems to run ok as it is.

[xtr21]

NazPak is based on new "Evo" spec chassis (with extended wheelbase) - definately on-road only.

[higgy1541]

I have a problem with my car. When i brake the car spins out! Could anybody tell me how to cure this? Is it a problem with the diff or do these cars just tend to spin out under braking?

[carerra]

if you have the turnbuckles on your car, it could be because the camber on one of the rear wheels is set wrong...

it could be oil from the exhaust getting on the rear right wheel - reducing traction...

the diff is a mild possability...i.e one wheel is being allowed to lock whilst the other can still turn...if ya want, try tightening it up a bit...a tight diff it better (and lasts longer) than a loose diff...

[Chestnut]

:cool: They will spin out under hard braking on the pavement.

[xtr21]

higgy1541,
You don't mention what tyres you are using - if you're running the kit tyres on tarmac, then you are going to struggle for grip.......if you have Venoms fitted and it still spins out, I would suggest the following;
Firstly, take carerra's advice and check for oil on the tyre or a camber difference between the wheels - I doubt whether the diff is causing the problem unless the car pulls to one side when accelerating away.
Secondly, take some time to set up the brake linkage - you need to make things more "progressive" not just "whamming in full on anchors" every time you pull the stick back. Experiment with different lengths of fuel tube between the brake arm and stop to see what works best - my "Evo" is set up so that you can brake hard without immediately locking the wheels and just come off the brakes as they start to lock. You may find softening the rear suspension helps too.
Lastly, adopt the manual version of "ABS" - instead of just slamming the stick back to brake, repeatedly flick it back and off to scrub off the speed - takes some practice but you'll be amazed how well it works.......................
And if all of this fails - Just keep on going and don't use the brakes !!!!

[xtr21]

days of thunder anyone......................

[xtr21]

sorry about the picture quality - Rob's having an "off day"

[xtr21]

check the skateboarding decals - Matt's a skate fan................

[carerra]

cool...looks well sweet.....think it might need a wing on the back though...have ya put it through it's paces yet??

[xtr21]

The only RC object that would be any good around this area at the moment would be a boat !!!!! (or perhaps a submarine)

As soon as we get some dry weather we'll be out blasting around.:cool:

[RURC]

Schumacher XTR .21 what a great little truck. I have 2 of them and regard them highly. I have the single and the 3 speed versions. I have about 4 gallons of fuel through the single speed and it still goes strong. In the states here I have almost nobody to run with who has another XTR. Unless I get one of the guys at Schumacher US to come out and play. I live just a few miles from the US distributors office. The new (to the states) low drag body really made a difference. The truck will no longer just start flying off the ground. And it goes faster now that it stays down. I just wanted to add my 2 pence worth.

I want to get the new road car but haven't saved the money yet to do this.

[carerra]

low drag body??? what does that one look like?? i know my original body had little fake air scoops on the roof and my new one doesn't....does that mean my new one is the low drag version???

[Liverpool-Lad]

How reliable is this these days guys?? Conisdering getting that and TT gearbox,

Some real world experience would be cool.

:cool:

[xtr21]

Hi Andy,
Hope you had a good Xmas - your carb and bits are in the post tomorrow.
I've got a 3 speed in both my "EVO" and Big 6, and have just fitted one to Matt's NazPak'd EVO (the one in the pics above).
No problems at all except for the first gear ratchet going in the Big 6 - but I bought that 2nd hand so can't vouch for it's treatment by the previous owner. One tip that was passed on to me is to replace the plastic caged roller bearing in the pinion gear with ballraces - apparently the plastic bearing breaks up and the pinion wrecks the plastic gears on the gearbox as a result !!!
I have to say though, that I personally wouldn't run a 3 speed off road - too many bumps and crap flying about. On the tarmac though, you need to experience it to appreciate it.......WOW !!!
If you planning to run mainly on road and you haven't got a TT box fitted (your brother has !!) then I would definately go for it just to upgrade the gearbox - 3 gears is a bonus..............
Still think that you should go the "EVO" route as well !!! :cool:

[xtr21]

Check this out............XTReme Racing as it should be.
Go to www.xtrracers.co.uk/videos.htm - then download the "XTReme racing" video.
Made me want to get straight back out there...........if only it would stop raining !!:cool: :cool: :cool:

[Liverpool-Lad]

Just checked the vid, some good action there :)

Near the end when the car ploughs into the one near the kerb...? Ouch!! :eek:

[higgy1541]

I have just got a Temperature Guage for my 21 XTR-3E. I was just wondering, is it best to place the wire, on the bottom of the heat sink/top of the block or half way up the cooling head?

[carerra]

Originally posted by higgy1541
I have just got a Temperature Guage for my 21 XTR-3E. I was just wondering, is it best to place the wire, on the bottom of the heat sink/top of the block or half way up the cooling head?


at the bottom, as close to the crankcase as possible

[RURC]

The original body that comes with the XTR is very wide and has huge fender risers on it. The "new" ( I say this not knowing how long it has been available in Europe) "low drag body, as described to me by Adrian at Schumacher US, has no fenders and fits very close and low. It is a Schumacher part not someone's after market stuff. I will get a picture of the old body next to the new one and put it up here as soon as I can. Looking at the photos on the first page of this thread, it looks like OB4-KID has the "low drag" body. Other things that I have read here as to the reliability of the 3 speed. Well, I have not had any problems at all. I replaced the bearing from the beginning. I do agree that the 3 speed in off road track use is over kill. Not to mention how difficult it is to handle at those speeds. However if you want to scare people put the single speed body on the 3 speed and fly it down the back straight. The look in their eyes will be quite funny. The local track has a 150 foot long straight and I set for close shift. By the time it is ready to stop it is rolling around 60 mph. Jaws drop. My 1/8 scale buggies do not even match that in speed.

[carerra]

took out the new McCoy glo-plug and replaced it with the original - found the engine started and ran better...think i'll keep using it for a while...

nearly had me car run over by a bus today....

running the car towards me was wondering why it appeared to leaning to one side...the front bumper support bits at the bottom of the front shock mounts had buckled - probably from numerous front impacts.

also had a rear alloy pivot block come off - even though held on with a locknut :( ......oh, and i completely destroyed the front end of my old body shell....

with no wheelie bar at the moment, it was kinda funny when the car completely flipped, but continued to slide up the road on it's roof...

new engine bit seem to be working fine, can't test the engine temp as battery in Venom gauge has run out...only problem at the moment is the e-start...think that the one - way clutch may need replacing as it slips like mad when i crank the drill at more than a few rpm's...

[xtr21]

has everybody deserted this forum ? c'mon guys, what's happening ?
:confused:

[Liverpool-Lad]

Its a bit quiet isnt it Pete?

Guys - the e-start. Im going to buy this shortly as Im sick of snapping the regular cords. What drill is recommended, something like an 18 volt one? Something around the £20 mark would be great.

Ive also heard theres more power without the pullstart on, is this correct? :confused:

Cheers.

[Yossarian]

Liverpool-Lad from OcUK or are there two of you? :D

[Liverpool-Lad]

I thought the name looked familiar - hello m8.

[xtr21]

Hi Andy,
Glad to see that you're still with us mate.....finally got to run the cars yesterday in the dry !!! Matt loves his 3 speed and said that the e-start was the best thing 'cos "he doesn't have to mess around with the string thing anymore". You don't need a particularly powerful drill (mine is 12v) but I'd try and go for one that comes with two batteries - it's a real pain when the battery goes flat and you can't start the cars !!
Difficult to comment on more power from an e-start engine - yes, there should be less drag on the crank, but whether it's a noticable difference is questionable, the real benefit is the easy starting, and boy is it easy !!
Go spend your cash on that 3 speed and e-start...............
Pete.
P.S. Liverpool vs Palace (your team vs mine).....any comments?

[Liverpool-Lad]

Ive spotted a 14.4v 700rpm drill in B&Q for £20...this sounds quite good. The pull start is a nightmare, and at £1.99 for a piece of string that snaps pretty quick its got to go!!

The only reason I ask about the e-start is that my brothers seems to outrun me, it seems to have more poke now without the pullstart!

As for the Palace FA Cup game...tough one as we are not on the best of form, morale must be pretty low. I bet your guys will be up for it - nothing to lose!

[xtr21]

It's a damn good car your brothers !!!
I did warn you that it was a good one and you'd be jealous !!!!
Re; the footy - If we do you at Selhurst it will be OK, but I wouldn't fancy our chances back at Anfield if it goes to a reply.

[catsarse]

Hi,

New here, but not new to RC, have had RC cars for nearly 20 years but only recently (last 4 years) got into Nitro, what a difference, anyways I have an XTR3e, Kyosho Mantis GP (with full ballraces, Tuned pipe, camber adjust and Sports shocks) and a Tamiya Bigwig.
I've had the XTR a couple of weeks and run it a couple of times and it's fast, pulled some cool jumps too (6ft high about 15ft long) and it lands really well if you take off right (a wrecked body and removed wheelie bar are testament to this!!!!). The only thing is though it has never got out of 1st gear, what sort of speed do these things have to do to change into 2nd and is it possible to lower the change point as there is nothing in the manual? Also where can I get these Road Hawg tyres from as I need some road tyres? One more thing is it wise to replace the bearings in the pinion still or has that issue been fixed with the 3e?

Carl.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Im not sure on the 3 speed, as I dont have one, however the Venom tyres/inserts can be bought from your local Schumacher dealer.

[xtr21]

The only road tyres you need are the Schumacher Venoms as Liverpool-Lad suggests. Get the foam inserts as well - I also recommend the white wheels as they are easier to glue the tyres onto. The 3 speed works best on-road - too many bumps and wheelspin for it to change properly off-road. The pinion bearings are still the plastic caged type in the kit, but you can replace these with ballraces pretty cheaply - I'd recommend this as the plastic ones break up !!! You need 3 bearings sized 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (Part number B5825 from Modelsport UK - Tamiya bearings). If you fancy an on-road only car, check our website at www.xtrracers.co.uk for the "EVO" conversion, and if you live anywhere near the Gatwick area why not join us for some racing this year ?

[catsarse]

Thanks for the advice, I will buy some Venoms from Apex models ASAP. Thanks for the offer XTR21, but I brought the XTR for a bit of fun and off-roading as I already have the Kyosho pure ten touring car and needed something for fun rather than racing, however I might come up and watch you guy race as I'm not far from Gatwick, might even bring the pure ten although it is slow compared to the XTR.

Carl.

[catsarse]

Ran it again today and broke the bolts on the wheelie bar again, changed into second and spun round (thats spikes and tarmac for you though) and went backwards into a soft bank burying the wheelie bar into the ground. I've decided to get venoms for the rear and use the spike and v2's for the rear on dirt, so my next question is what are good front all rounders (dirt and tarmac) I heard someone mention ribbed (not red ones:p ) but which ones?
Spoke to the guys in Apex today about the bearings and they were surprised as they said they rarely go, said they had the bearings but suggested to see how I go with the standard ones. Will give it a proper go at the weekend with Venoms on tarmac and will find somewhere off-road thats good too.

Carl.

[xtr21]

Strange to hear that Apex say the std bearings don't cause any problems as I got the info from Neil at Nitrocrazy who had the problem and was advised by Apex to fit the ballraces to fix it !!!!
"Seeing how you go" is crazy advice because if the bearing fails you will wreck the gearset - I suppose that's money in their pocket when you need to buy the new parts. I'd still suggest you make the mod - the bearings are only about £1.50 each and guarantee you won't have a failure in that area. If you want good all-round tyres go for Proline Dirt Hawgs - the wear rate on tarmac is a bit high but the grip is good, on and off road.

[catsarse]

I think I will replace them at the weekend then for the sake of a fiver it will be worth it. I was looking at tyre price last night and the venoms are good VFM really so I think I will get a full set for road use as my mate was managing some cool power slides last night on his and the look really progressive.

Carl.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Damn e-start. Tried to take the backplate off the pullstart (4 bolts) None of them will move and Ive rounded a couple (using good quality allen driver and have cleaned crud out!) Thoroughly doused with WD 40 beforehand :mad: :mad:

[SuperMaxx1985]

Do you any of you guys know how fast a stock XTR .21 is with the single speed transmission? I've heard a few people say they have topped 70MPH with the new XTR 3E but haven't heard any claims on the single speed version. Thanks

[Liverpool-Lad]

Id say the single speed is around 45-50mph?

[xtr21]

I'd say about the same.....but that's really caning the engine - if you want high speed you need the 3 speed ( much less stress on the engine)

[Liverpool-Lad]

I got the e-start fitted, my brother had to hacksaw some slots into the bolts and we finally removed them!

[xtr21]

As you know, we run the "EVO" converted XTR's for our racing, which means that some parts from the original XTR become redundant. One of our members is about to buy a brand new 3e to build his race car for this year and will have the following available for sale:
4 brand new kit tyres, 1 brand new steel chassis, 1 brand new bodyshell and decals, 1 brand new battery box, a complete set of the plastic tierods, and a brand new front bumper.
Anyone interested ? Offers invited for whole lot or seperates.

[catsarse]

First dibs on the Tyres and shell please.

forgot to add decals too.

Carl.

[Liverpool-Lad]

I had mailed Pete earlier on today about the tyres ;)

[xtr21]

Now boys, no fighting amongst yourselves !!!
Firstly, the car isn't even bought yet, and secondly, it isn't actually me that will be selling the parts.
I will pass on your interest to Rob (the guy who is getting the 3e)
and see what he wants to do. He is aware that Liperpool-Lad did immediately stake a claim on the tyres but I don't know what sort of money he is looking for. When he gets the car I will post Rob's e-mail address so you guys can speak to him direct.

[higgy1541]

I have completely run in my XTR now. I have just one problem. I takes absolutely ages to get the engine started. I prime the engine as the instructions say then put on the glow start. I spin the engine over with my drill but i have to keep priming the engine a little bit more. Eventualy it starts. There is definately something wrong, it shouldnt take this lon to start, Should it?. Can anyone help me please?

[Liverpool-Lad]

Check glowplug OK and make sure drill is turning engine over fast enough. Also check carb settings. Main needle about 2 turns out.

Also, while turning the engine over, cover the opening on the exhaust and this will pull fuel into the engine.

[higgy1541]

How many RPM's does the drill need to do to start the engine?

[Liverpool-Lad]

It says a min of 550 (good 12 volt should be OK) I Bought a 14.4v £20 one from B&Q (700rpm) starts it like a treat!

[catsarse]

I had these problems when I first had mine, I've found the best way is to spin it over priming it with the exhaust closed off until you here it start to pick up (trying to fire) then put on the glow start and it should start straight away.

Also the expense continues, today I broke a rear suspension arm, so I went to Apex to buy the replacement alloy arms only to find out that there were QA probs with the last lot and there are none available at the moment so I brought the plastic ones and the alloy pivot blocks. Then lost one body mount post (gonna have to buy the alloy post mounts now).

One word of warning to all 3e owners, don't run it headon into the wind as the change to 3rd made mine try to fly, it did a great impression of Donald Campbells bluebird boat when that flipped and cost me a suspension arm

Carl.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Do you mean one of the wishbones?

A good tip of is go to a fishing shop or car tyre place and get some lead strip or bombs and strap to the front bumper. A few Ozs should do it. That should stop it from taking off!

[punksoul257]

I've got 2 drills to start my car, but it always takes ages to start it first time. Is this engine settings thats causing this. I always make sure the engine is primed before i attempt to start it.:confused:

Both of the drills are cordless, 1 is 12v (woolworths cheepo thing) & the other is a 14.4v thing (exactly the same as the one on the 21xtr ad)

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

hey ppl,


look what happens to the desert storm when it crashes at about 60mph:eek:

[Liverpool-Lad]

:( What did you crash into? Those rear tyres look interesting, what are they?

[xtr21]

My EVO is always a proble to fire from cold - best thing to do is prime it till its flooded, take out the plug, spin it to get rid of the excess fuel, dry off the plug and refit it and she should fire up immediately. Don't hammer the throttle straight away though as there will still be some unburnt fuel ready to flood it and kill the engine. Just gently tease up the revs until it clears and you're sorted. After that it should fire on the button every time if you're tuned properly - mine fires on the first turn every time once its warm.

[xtr21]

OK, more XTR bits available due to an XTRracer buying a new 3e (Liverpool-Lad - Your bits are sorted with Rob.)

1 x brand new steel chassis = £10.00
1 x brand new unpainted bodyshell with decals = £10.00
1 x brand new battery box = £2.00
2 sets of new rear shock absorbers = £6.00 per set
2 pairs of brand new Vee 2 tyres = £7.50 per pair
1 pair of brand new Mini spike tyres = £7.50 per pair
1 x brand new front bumper (U387R) = £2.00
3 x brand new sets of plastic tierods = £1.00 per set

Prices don't include postage which depends on the items.
All parts are ready to go now.
PM me at; peter.caffyn@ntlworld.com if you are interested.
First come, first served - no arguments.

[xtr21]

That picture looks familiar - is it Neil's car from the NitroCrazy site ?
Liverpool - Lad.....those rear tyres look like ProLine DirtHawgs - I know a man with 4 brand new ones that he wants rid of - if you are interested.

[carerra]

Originally posted by Liverpool-Lad
:( What did you crash into? Those rear tyres look interesting, what are they?

you sure those rears aren't the schuie stagger ribs?? hard too tell in the pic...

[pdoncheck]

Additional bits for sale:

1 x set of 4 - NEW Proline Dirt Hawg Tyres on XTR21 New silver rims - taped, glued, foam inserts. £35


1 x set of 4 Proline Road Rage on XTR21 silver rims - hardly used, Taped, glued and foam inserts. £25

Postage NOT included

mail pauldoncheck@aol.com

visit www.xtrracers.co.uk for an alternative XTR!

[X-Tee Ha !]

Here's a pic of mine just about to undergo fitment of the TGX fuel tank - it's got a primer pump :D plus it looks all modern like and the lid matches the purple silicon exhaust coupler :D :D

The front mounting hole is already there, just needs one more 3mm hole drilling at the back, couple of pillars and o-rings for vibe proofing and Bob's yer uncle, easy mod :D

Can't WAIT to fire this up !!!

http://xwid.com/upload/sigs/xtr tgx.jpg

[xtr21]

Andys Castrol Nazpak with my Days of Thunder Superflo "pink thing". We put the Big 6 in the middle to give an idea of scale.

[xtr21]

hope this works this time..................

[xtr21]

The view the other drivers usually get...........................

[Hoke]

I have just turned my XTR into a street racer. As you can see on the pic I use the venom tires and I fitted a Tamiya Beetle body. I just love the details on the Tamiya bodies, check out the rear-view mirrors :) . It was my first time trying to paint flames, what do you guys think of it. I have also made my own wheelie bar/handle and I'm thinking of buying the 3-speed although I'm having trouble controlling it the way it is :)

http://w1.363.telia.com/%7Eu36306192/nitro21xtr_43.jpg

[Hoke]

another one...

http://w1.363.telia.com/%7Eu36306192/nitro21xtr_44.jpg

[Hoke]

the last one...

http://w1.363.telia.com/%7Eu36306192/nitro21xtr_42.jpg

[xtr21]

Nice one mate, I like that.........Good to see something different. One of the reason we developed the EVO was the lack of decent looking bodyshells that would fit the XTR. The other reason, and probably the most important, was that we kept smashing wishbones due to the wheels sticking out so much from the bodyshell - the EVO allowed the use of 1/8th scale shells which tucked the wheels inside the arches - no more wishbone damage !! (Unless you have a very large one................which we do on occasions)
Would love to see a vid of you beetle wheelying up the road !!!!

[Hoke]

Originally posted by xtr21
Would love to see a vid of you beetle wheelying up the road !!!!

Maybe I can have a video of it later on. The weather is still wet/snowy here so I'll have to wait to race the Beetle :(

[pdoncheck]

XTR's just get better and better.........

www.xtrracers.co.uk - you know you want to.

[pdoncheck]

and better.........

[X-Tee Ha !]

Nice body ! Do you racers use a different servo saver than the one supplied with the kit? Mine seems VERY weak, not tried it on the road yet, but it seems very poor on the bench, carpet, or is this a "feature" to prevent snap steering (rollovers) or something?

[Liverpool-Lad]

The servo doesnt usually move a great when the car is static (think of a car with no power steering and how hard it is to turn the wheel when its parked)

I have a futaba hi torque steering servo for steering. - cost about £25.

[TIMMY2734]

I just got the desert storm and i dont have Dyna glow or blue thunder available to me. Will any synthetic fuel be ok to use?

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Liverpool Lad, it's the servo saver that I was talking about, this seems very weak, are you using the stock Schumacher one? Is there a trick to wind the saver spring around a few times or something?

Timmy, what fuel can you get? Any 10% nitro car fuel with 15-18% oil should be OK.

In the XTR3E owners manual Schumacher specifically recommend Dynaglo which is only a 10% oil content fuel, in the other literature supplied with the same kit, the engine manufacturers recommend no less than an 18% oil content fuel. I think Schumacher are guarding against gumming up of the one-way bearing in the "E-start" with 10% oil and Thunder Tiger are guarding against engine damage with 18% oil. I think you would be safe somewhere in between.

[pdoncheck]

X-Tee Ha - Remove the standard schumacher servo saver, and put it in your spares box - it is crap (far too much flex in it). Model shops do various "hi spec" servo savers - we've found the best by far is the Tamiya Hi Torque Servo Saver #50473 - around £8 but well worth the outlay. (It also comes with all common adaptors for different servo manufacturers.

Timmy - Try Duraglow or Contest 10 - though really do recommend Blue Thunder. It really is the best (and we have tried most of them). Do not exceed 20% Nitro though - the extra isn't worth the risk. ANY mdel shop should be able to get Blue Thunder if they have an account with CML Distribution (who also supply the vast majority of "trick bits" for r/c cars in the UK.

[Liverpool-Lad]

Formula Irvine contest 10 here. Ive run about 1 1/2 gallons through mine (secondhand when bought) and its still sweet as a nut. Not had to strip the engine or anything (touch wood)!

[TIMMY2734]

i just picked up some sidewinder. The guy at the hobby shop said not to use Blue Thunder because he has gotten a lot of complaints because it doesnt have enough oil in it.

[xtr21]

Been out playing with the NazPak'd cars today (well the 4 of us that have finished building them) UNBELIEVABLE FUN !!!! The cars are so evenly matched now that the racing is so close.........Had 4 new drivers turn up for a looksee and subsequently they can't wait to get involved - could well be a 20 car championship this year!! All four cars were absolutely flying today, although we appear to have started to eat three speed cogs - Paul finished up with only first gear, having stripped second and third, and I've done the third gear cog. Got a feeling that as we're running the cars so hard on the suspension front that the bumpy bits of the tarmac are hurting the gearbox somehow. Have to find a smoother venue............It was bl***y cold though - we broke two of the prototype shells due to them going brittle in the cold, and sheared a hub adapter too. Andy even snapped a rear turnbuckle clean in half, and they usually bend before breaking !!! It's damn hard to drive when you can't feel your fingertips too !!

[Lordkett]

Has anyone seen any information about the new Menace 21 from Schumacher? It looks like a 4wd version of the XTR3e.

[xtr21]

Came across it on the Schumacher site last night - it's already got people buzzing this morning. It does, as you say, look like a 4WD version of the XTR-3e - probably borrows the drivetrain/gearboxes from the Fusion I'd guess. I'm not really that impressed with Schumacher's marketing strategy towards it's customers - how many people who have just gone out and bought 3e's are now going to wish they had a 4WD version ? And I can't see that converting the XTR using these "Menace" parts is going to be cost effective because the transmission is completely different so you'll need both gearboxes plus the connecting drive belt system - if it is a belt, could be shaft driven ??!! I spotted a new stle of wheel in the picture as well - wonder if they've seen sense and converted the hubs to standard hex fitting ?? Will be watching closely for more details as Schumacher release them, but no plans to rush out and buy one.................

[johnybravo129]

I recently bought a Schumacher XT-R for $100. I'm now currently looking for a .21 engine for it. What type of shaft does the car take? Thanks a lot.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I think it's an "SG" shaft engine, but I think Thunder Tiger are "Imperial" and other engines, OS for instance are "metric" this may be important for the clutch assembly/bearings etc but not sure !?

Pdoncheck, I got hold of the Tamiya servo saver - the car is transformed !

Thanks !

[johnybravo129]

So you think this was a good deal fer $100? It doesn't come with an engine, but that's not problem. Oh yeah, and notice the 20+ pairs of tires and rims plus the spair part (not pictured) that it comes with. I think I did good, especially fer ebay!http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_1f0deaaa1b936bc4d9bf3ab6441da0c4/i-1_B_L.JPG http://ebay1.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_8d0ff1dbf6e0e13ee65bcc2c2369ff73/i-6_B_L.JPG

[pdoncheck]

Why can't you buy an engine direct from Schumacher?

If you do suggest buying a "Big 6" spec engine as it comes with the larger head (black not purple) and costs circa £100

You will also need the pinion gear etc as it doesn't come with it. Part number for the engine is G501N. Unsure of other bits. Try www.racing-cars.com for full sp.

Best to phone them & talk through requirement - they will ship accordingly.


X tee ha - glad the servo saver helped. Now all you xtr owners need is a car that doesn't spin on every corner (unless you slow right down) when racing on tarmac.

www.xtrracers.co.uk - modified to make a real difference!:D

[Keybaud]

Just thought I'd drop a note in here, as I've finally found a forum discussing this awesome beast.

I bought a second hand vanilla XTR from ebay for £150 (complete with all the gear to run except glow start recharger. Even included 1/2 a gallon of fuel and it was driving distance from my house. <BIG GRIN>). Anyway, I have spent the last month or two stripping it to bits and rebuilding it, then learning how to tune the engine and I thought I'd post the lessons I've learned.

1. If the alloy diff outputs are really hot, then your diff is not tight enough and its probably melted inside. Did this twice in a row before I learned that lesson.

2. If its hard to tune the engine or it wont stay tuned for long, check that the high speed needle isn't turning due to vibration. Yup, that took me a long time to spot.

3. The XTR-3E wheelie bar probably wont stay on after that jump and you sure as hell aint going to find the plastic nut and bolt that used to hold it on.

4. Make sure the bolts at the top of the shocks are nice and tight, if they are loose, they'll bend and not transfer the shock to the (insert correct term here for large black bit that the shocks are bolted to).

I love the car, my kids love the car, people out walking their dogs love the car. If you want to just have a blast, then its an awesome beast.

Oh, did I mention that I live right next to the Malvern Hills. Off to scare some more walkers once my alloy rear wishbones arrive.

:-)

Simon

ps Love the various XTR sites out there that you guys ('n' gals?) have made. They've been a great help to me.

[pdoncheck]

Simon,

Great to see someone so enthusiastic about their r/c car!

You raise some excellent points that will help alot of people.

I suggest you use PTFE tape (from plumbers shops) to stop the mixture screws (there are 2!) from turning, and I would NOT recommend tightening the top shock bolts. They will break first time you have a hard landing - especially if you have the standard plastic shocks.

Also change the plastic wheelie bar bolts for metal!

Jury is still out if the alloy wishbones are value for money - they won't break, but they will bend or twist - and no doubt transfer the load to the blocks (unless you've upgraded them as well).

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

[SuperMaxx1985]

I am interested in buying the 3 speed gear kit from Schumacher and I noticed that they said the "TT" transmission is needed in order to put a 3 speed on it. Do all XTR's come with the "TT" transmission? Also how hard is it to do this upgrade? Thanks guys.

[SuperMaxx1985]

I am interested in buying the 3 speed gear kit from Schumacher and I noticed that they said the "TT" transmission is needed in order to put a 3 speed on it. Do all XTR's come with the "TT" transmission? Also how hard is it to do this upgrade? Thanks guys.

[SuperMaxx1985]

Oops sorry about that :p

[Keybaud]

Having read a few posts here I have a question about my XTR.

It came with the purple alloy upgrade blocks still in their bags, but was fitted with machined steel blocks. Is this the original item, or has a previous owner had them custom made?

Thanks,

Simon

[X-Tee Ha !]

Supermaxx, check where your diff outdrives exit the housing, it says "TT Transmission" moulded into the casing on both sides when it is the TT transmission.

Simon, do you mean the small plastic mouldings screwed underneath the chassis retaining the hingepin for the rear wishbone(s) ?

Mine are plastic, I thought they all were, except the purple ally upgraded ones :D I think the steel blocks are maybe home made tough 'uns :D

[pdoncheck]

If you have a tt transmission - no worries. If not, then whole kit (3 speed & gearbox - with alloy output shafts) can be bought as a single part - around £75 i think.

X tee ha is right - standard offering is plastic with purple alloy blocks as a speed sedcret upgrade. Anything else is "home made" or for another r/c car.

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

Just to let you all know - We now have limited stock of the new EVO 7 Chassis that we keep refering to on our website to make your XTR something REALLY special. Price is £25 each +P&P (£7 UK mainland) via Citylink.

Mail me for more info:
pauldoncheck@aol.com

[SuperMaxx1985]

I am interested in buying the 3 speed for my truck but on Schumacher's site they show two different part #'s. One says "3 speed conversion" ($79) and the other says "3 speed conversion complete assembly" ($119). If anyone could help me out that would be great. Thanks guys

[Liverpool-Lad]

Depends if you have the XTR which has TT transmission - that will be the cheaper of the 2 prices, dearer one relates to the XT.

[xtr21]

Early XTR's do not have the TT gearbox...........it was fitted to the later models only. Check the side of the gearbox casing - it will say TT on it if it's a TT 'box. The 3 speed conversion consists of a replacement layshaft, 3 speed gears and pinon, whilst the 3 speed complete assembly is a whole new 3 speed TT gearbox with alloy output shafts plus pinion. I'd say it's worth you fitting the complete assembly at the prices you quote - you'll have a spare gearbox as well.

Pete


www.xtrracers.co.uk
"The UK's premier modified XTR racing website"

[SuperMaxx1985]

So how do you guys keep your fuel tank lid down tightly? Mine is open slightly and fuel leaks out sometimes. Seems to me like to spring that holds it down isn't strong enough. Any thoughts on what I should do?

[pdoncheck]

Throw it away - they are crap. Problem you have when using a standard chassis is one that fits - several people use trial & error (www.nitrocrazy.com have experimented - check their site for more detail).

We have chosen the EK4 Thunder Tiger Fuel Tank - much better seals, bigger, and it's baffled inside. Problm is this won't fit without major mods to a standard chassis - unless ofcourse you have one of our modified chassis, then it's job done.....

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

[SuperMaxx1985]

I am still using the stock plug in my truck and was wondering if it is ok to switch over to an MC-59? I have heard that it is better to use a "colder" plug in the big block engines but MC -59's work well in most applications. Thanks

[xtr21]

Guy's (and gals),
Going to start a new thread soon in the on-road section of this forum for our EVO spec on-road XTR's. Simply because this one is supposed to be for Nitro off-road XTR stuff. Will still pop back and visit to see what's going on, and to let you know if we come up with any more ideas to improve the truck. The new site at www.xtrracers.co.uk has been uploaded and should become available very soon once the DNS server points in the right direction, so pay us a visit and tell us what you think.
And when you get fed up with the mud and stuff - get yourself EVO'd !!!
Cheers
Pete

[SuperMaxx1985]

Does anyone know where I can get a new pull starter for my XTR? Mine broke today and my LHS doesn't support Thunder Tiger products. I have checked quite a few places online but so far haven't seen anything. Thanks

[pdoncheck]

Buy direct from Schumacher (www.racing-cars.com). I would really recommend the "e-start" as it will end the nightmare of broken pull cords, and a sore arm at the end of a fun day!

Costs are around £30 - so not much additional outlay from a complete pullstart - although they do do the component pieces too - cord, tensioner, case etc.

You will need to invest a 1 off payment of around £15 for a cordless drill!

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

[SuperMaxx1985]

pdoncheck, do you know of a pull starter that might work temporarily on the XTR?. I can't find the one I'm looking for on the Schumacher site. Thanks

[pdoncheck]

Thunder Tiger Pull Start (as fitted as standard on xtr) is available direct from Schumacher. The part number is G522N and is £20. I would REALLY recommend spending an extra tenner and going for the estart - you will only do another cord very soon, as the crap from the exhaust drops into the starter gunking it full of oily crap. You can buy just the component parts from Schumacher - part nos below....

G517H - Pull start spring
G519K - Pull start cord
G520L - Pull start wheel
G521M - Pull start wheel cover

Incidentally, on the kit itself (G522N) - Schumacher buy it from Thunder Tiger, put on their markup and sell it - far better to buy a thunder tiger starter from your model shop - IF THEY HAVE IT!

If you insist on a pull start unit, I can probably find one of our group that will sell their redundant one (most have migrated to the estart). Let me know on the following email address, and I will put you in touch with them (no promises though)..

pauldoncheck@aol.com
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[Keybaud]

I just stripped my XTR's pull start to pieces, as it snapped, and it was very easy to fix. Get a piece of pull cord from a DIY store, the stuff you use for bathroom lights or window blinds should be OK, as it has a high tensile strength.

The steps to repair it (from memory) were:

1. Remove and disassemble pull start (spring is likely to go BOING here, but it doesn't matter).
2. Remove the old pull cord.
3. Coil spring in hand and pop back in to place (Hold centre and wind round in largish loops, pulling tight every so often. Don't try to wind it tight from the first loop).
4. Attach new pull cord and wind round assembly (use more cord than you need and wind it round as much as you can.
5. Feed end of cord through top hole in assembly and loosely fit pull handle.
6. Refit pull start to engine.
7. Pull engine over a few times to get spring and cord settled in, then remove handle and cut cord to the correct length (ie so that it would pull itself back in to the pull start, if you let go of it).
8. Reattach handle.

Total time about 10 minutes, total cost about 45p.

Don't use a round shoe string, they last about 30 pulls..........honest)

Simon

[honestly2k]

I need new parts for me truck and would like help / advice thanks, i need:
Foam Tyre Insert x2 pairs
Road Tyre x2 pairs
Shock Absorbers just the front
Body Clips
Turnbuckle Set
All this straight from schuie is £83.75 that seems a bit expensive!! and i was wondering whether there is any other optins from other cars that i can use that would make it cheaper!! any help would be fantastic thanks!!

[xtr21]

Don't waste your money on any tyres other than Venoms, and the foams that go with them. You can use any shocks that are the same length as the front ones, but they are all around the same sort of price. Turnbuckles can be found for a variety of other makes of car, but you need to make sure their length is correct.
Body clips are available from any model shop. To be fair, the price you quote is not too bad considering what you are buying.
Why do you need more front shocks ? Do I detect an EVO conversion in the air here ? Or are you just trying to get the standard chassis to handle on tarmac ?

[honestly2k]

Well i was thinking of doing the naspak thing but ill have to wait until i get a job to do that im just trying to get it up and running i had an accident with motorbike and my car came out a lot worse!! shattered a shock the bit it screws in to 2 turnbuckles and my tires r bald!!
What shocks do you recommend?? yeah the turnbuckles and clips sound alright price but it was the tyres that surprised me my mum pays that much for some for her astra!!

Also there isnt any dirt tracks or ne thin to take me car to just car parks big ones and lots of em!

[xtr21]

You can buy just the shock bodies and repair your busted shock - I'd stick with the Schuie shocks and just fit Black springs. Tough luck on the turnbuckles - they only come in a set. And tyres were made to be worn out on an XTR - could you just get a pair for the rear ? The front ones can be pretty knackered and you'll still get away with it.
Good luck anyway - and check out the new www.xtrracers.co.uk website.
Pete

[honestly2k]

i got confuse with the shock bodies, seals n all the other stuff and theres no pics on the shue web site what part is what some pics would be great but i need the bottom part i think and the little plasticky things. I suppose ill just have to get the 1 pair but ill probably get some rims as well any news on the modified hubs i was hearing a while back??
on the first page of this forum part some guy is saying he put rc10gt shocks in his r they good and r they cheap??

[johnybravo129]

I recently bought a used Schumacher XT-R Stadium truck without an engine. Now I've been told it need a long shaft engine, but I've found this incredible deal from a friend on a OFNA Force 3.5 .21 but its a shorter threaded shaft. No is there a way I can 1.) ghetto rig it 2.)get a pilot shaft or some kind of conversion or 3.) replace the whole shaft? Please respon ASAP because I need to jump on this deal before someone else gets to it!!! Thanks in advance!!!

[pdoncheck]

Sorry, can't help you with non standard engine options. Historically these mods always end in tears and lots of expense!

To get you outta trouble, I can supply you a refurbished .21 thunder tiger engine from my XTR (new piston & liner - £36 worth) - it comes complete with carb as well. New these are over £100. Yours for £70 + postage.

All you will need to complete your car is is a clutch, flywheel, and pinion gear if you don't have an engine already.


pauldoncheck@aol.com

www.xtrracers.co.uk

[Liverpool-Lad]

What are the best paints to do the shell with - do you have to use the stuff from the model shops? I need a black to seal it in also.

I have some acrylic spray paint here, will that work?

[honestly2k]

yeah acrylic is ok you need a paint that will stick to the plastic water based paints are a nono coz they glide off plastic

[Liverpool-Lad]

The one I have here is Holts Duplicolour meant for car bodies/plastics etc.

[honestly2k]

Its been a bit dead in here recently aint it!!!

Has any 1 been on trilordy.com i highly recomend it!!
If you do go to "splosions" and get the mini video its highly disturbing/amusing!!!!

[honestly2k]

Wow my stuff i ordered come from schuie the pro shocks come with 5 sets of springs!! im impressed they do like there customers dont they, only ordered them yesterday at like 3-4pm!!!

Big up schumacher

[SuperMaxx1985]

How much are those Pro Shocks going for? I'll buy a set if they aren't too expensive :D

[pdoncheck]

Pro Shocks are £30 plus postage.

[honestly2k]

Yeah about that but then you have to get some shock oil
The anodised purple body clips look trick!! and at 10 per pack a barghain aswell (i got 12!!!)
Getting me venoms and fuel tomorrow going to go to a old airbase to really give it some jip!!
gonna see what i can clock the beast at any bets??? just hope i dont run the thing over is it hard to control at 70mph??

[SuperMaxx1985]

pdoncheck, are those shocks better than the stock ones as far as small bump handling and travel? Thanks

[pdoncheck]

Pro shocks are miles better than standard for two main reasons - firstly as alloy they are much stronger, and I have NEVER broken an alloy shock - secondly they are better at retaining oil, as the seals are so much more rigid than the plastic ones. They are even better if you buy the alloy base as well (#U1818) but at £10 a pair - they're not totally essential.

The other benefit is you can use a much higher grade shock oil than normal and it won't start leaking under load.

My recommendation for reasonably smooth tarmac setting is alloy shocks with one thick spacer in place running black springs, and 100 shock oil - and only one hole open on the shock rod top (the bit inside). However everyone has their own preferences....

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

[SuperMaxx1985]

Paul, can you use those shocks with the EVO chassis installed?

[pdoncheck]

SuperMaxx - Absolutely! The whole purpose of the chassis (and the type of racing that we do) was to create an XTR that handled on tarmac - whilst retaining as many standard schumacher components as possible (therefore preventing "cheque book" racing - ie the one with the best bits wins!)

Check out the evobuild.pdf available on our website - you will see the shocks installed on the car - one thing to note however is we do NOT recommend upgrading the longer rear shocks - put the standard ones in your toolbox (in case for some bizarre reason you want to revert to a standard XTR again) - and purchase a second set of FRONT pro shocks for the rear - redrill a couple of holes in the backplate (see our build pdf) and run EXACTLY the same setup on the rear as you do on the front.

Your car will handle like you wouldn't believe!

Note you can do this WITHOUT an EVO chassis - but would recommend the conversion. We have sold circa 25 chassis's in the last two weeks - so we must have found something!

Regards

Paul

www.xtrracers.co.uk

OPEN INVITATION -
Don't forget - If you can get to us when we meet (see website) - you are more than welcome to come and see for yourself what we do - and what these cars are capable of, ask questions - whatever.

Do however note that we are a group of mates that have fun - we do NOT have a fully organised professional layed out track with podiums, transponders, etc - but we do have proper races with lap scorers, marshalls etc - We are CARPARK RACERS at heart! Expect to see between 12 - 16 EVO XTR's racing!

[SuperMaxx1985]

Thanks alot for the info Paul, I appreciate it. I would love to see you guys race the XTR's with an EVO chassis installed, but unfortunately I don't live in the UK so it would be a bit of a problem. Thanks for inviting me though, I bet those cars handle 10 times better with a new chassis.

Thanks,

Mike

[honestly2k]

Need help fitted me pro shock yesterday and the broken turnbuckle, then today i have put on me new rims, foam, venoms and i took it out for a quick blast and it turns ok until i start to accelerate then i turn full lock ant it still goes ina straight line but the wheels r turned!! Do i need to put weights ont he front is that what it is??

Also i am now running blue thunder 10% and when running it spits out unburnt fuel is this right how do i fix it which neeedles need changing

[xtr21]

My friend, you are experiencing massive understeer which can be improved by a number of solutions.
1. Add weight to the front of the car so the front tyres get more grip.
2. Add negative camber - so the wheels look like this / \
3. Soften the front suspension to give the tyres more mechanical grip.
or 4. Throw the old chassis away and get an EVO !!! (bet you knew that was coming didn't you!!!!)

A combination of the first 3 items should help you tune the chassis in. You'll want to find the balance between oversteer and understeer - too much oversteer will cause the car to spin or roll, and you already know what too much understeer does. We set the EVO's up with just a touch of understeer but the latest chassis has made "drifting" the corners much easier - can't tell you how though, that's our little secret.
Speed is also a factor with std chassis's - you simply cannot take a corner without slowing down somewhat, it's beyond the chassis capabilities. Practice always makes perfect too, so try and develop your driving style to suit.
Why not pay us a visit sometime to see the EVO in the flesh ?
Good luck - keep racing
Pete
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[honestly2k]

I would love to come up and see the evos but i dont have any transport only 17 dont have a car and lack of funds!!, but i do think your evo chassis would be a great investment but its getting the money to invest thats the problem ive changed the camber so its like / \ but i have put in the black springs in me shocks because they keep the body up from touchin the tyres because where the a arms go on the the centre square bit thats cracked where it attaches the the vertical part that holds the shocks on if u get what i mean!! but ill try adding weight and maybe changing the springs again if it dont work Thanks very much for your help.

[johnybravo129]

Ok, I finally got my Schumacher XT-R in the mail today. I got everything out of the box and ready to go, found the flywheel the guy sent, found all the clutch assembly, and got ready to see how my newly purchased used OFNA Force .21 fit. Since the engine is a short shaft, I got a pilot shaft to go on. When I went to mount it, I noticed that the mounting hole didnt fit exactly. Even though this is a setback, it's not a big one because I could just drill the mounts out. The next problem I ran into is that the pilot shaft they sold me has a nut that is too big, so I need to get a new one. Lastly, when I get the whole clutch assmebly together, the clutch bell passes the spur by a centimeter. Is there a way to get a smalled bearing bearing protector thing er whatever it's called because that would pretty much solve my problem. Also, have any of you ever ran a simaler problem.

[johnybravo129]

another

[johnybravo129]

more

[johnybravo129]

Also, can someone take a picture of their servo mounting? I've seen them before but their unusual and I don't have a picture of a completed on let alone a manual. Thanks a lot!

[johnybravo129]

Here's what I'm trying to show you. I'm using a short shaft with a pilot shaft attachment rather than the usual long shaft engine. It would all work if the pilot shafts' nut would fit under the clutch bell, like the stock one does.

[Keybaud]

johnybravo129,

The entire XTR manual is available on the technical info part of the Schumacher site:

http://195.92.181.110:8090/~technicalinfo

Simon

[johnybravo129]

I've been there... All I can find is like exploded view od the whole car, not specific areas. Anyone know where I can get the actual owners manual that comes with the car?

[johnybravo129]

Can someone please show me a picture of how the servos are hooked up? I think I need one of the pieces to hook it up. Just take a picture of which directions the servos face, in what position, and if you really want, what the linkage looks like up close. Thanks soooo much in advance! :p

[honestly2k]

i went up an old air base wiv a m8 in his car and i was racing out of the passenger window and beat his slow corsa sri, got to about 75mph and then run out of road and ont he second time round i braked went sideways and filpped at over 70mph!!! no harsh damage it sits real low ont he front he shell is touchin the tires at fron ill try to take some pics of the battle scars for you to ponder at

[Keybaud]

The whole manual is there, but its under the XT-R 3E (30 pages). The XT-R TT section has the 3 pages that are different to the XT-R 3E.

Simon

[xtr21]

johny, are you uk based ?
If so, I can send you the bits you need as I have them spare. From your picture it looks like you are one part short - the white plastic bracket that screws to the black plastic bracket - there should be two. Basically, the servos are mounted on top of one another, with the throttle servo on top. If you are UK based I'll photocopy the manual and send it with the bits.
Would suggest that you install the kit spec TT-Pro 21 engine as well, rather than your OFNA motor, it's plenty powerful and will allow the 3 speed upgrade to be fitted easily when you want to..........and you will want to - believe me !!!
If you are planning to do more on-road than off, check out www.xtrracers.co.uk and see what our EVO chassis conversion could do for you.
Good luck.
Pete

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

hi guys,

i currentley own the duratrax overdrive st but im considering changing it for the 3 speed 21XTR, is this a good idea?#

i dont race at a track, it will be used for runnin in open spaces for fun!

Also do parts on it break easy, and r they expensive to repair?

i live in the u.k so its £250.00 without radio,

thx 4 replys in advance,

Nitro~Freek!!!

[xtr21]

Go directly to www.xtrracers.co.uk - do not pass Go - do not collect £200....................sorry, Monopoly talk took over there !!!
Seriously though, an XTR is the most fun you can have with your clothes on...........and an EVO conversion will enhance things even further. If you're local to the Gatwick or Crawley area, you could join in the racing with us - or just pop down for a look.
Go for it - junk the Duratrax and get a real car !!!:cool:

[johnybravo129]

Bummer man, Ilive in the US. I'm like 1 of 100 people that have XT-R's here haha. It's hard to come by anyone that knows anything about them let alone has one. The guy I got it from gave me a ton of parts but no manual and I'm missing that servo mount. Can I just zip tie the servos together and put some two way tape in the middle? I can mount the steering servo, it's just the throttle I'm having trouble with. Thanks a lot for your help, lemme know what you think!

[xtr21]

johny - pm me your address - I'll see what I can do..........

[johnybravo129]

Thanks for being so helpful man, it's hard to find people like that these days. But, thankfully, I found this fiberglass wrench thing the guy who sold me my car gave me. Its a little bigger than the one mount I had, so I took a marker, traced the other one, cut the wrench down to size roughly (with a dremel tool) and drilled the holes in the same spots. Didn't take too long and it worked like a charm. It looks really crappy but it functions. I also didn't have the right screws and nuts so I had to improvise but I think it came out good. Lemme know what you think!

[johnybravo129]

I got my car together and working today YAYYYYY!!!! But now there's a new problem. When I gun the throttle, the spur moves fine but the power isn't getting to the wheels. I read through this forum somewhat and saw that some of you had solutions, but not being the orginal owner of this car, I don't know a number of things about it. I think its got the new TT tranny cus the guy said it will accept the new 3 speed. And I hear that if the diff is put in backwards it will act whacky, but since I didn't install it and I don't know if the guy has run it since he rebuilt it whether that's the problem or not. It runs great when I'm at low speeds. But when it gets up to speed, the engine revvs up and the wheels don't spin any faster. Something's slipping inside but I don't know what. Please help me! I've been wokring on this thing all day for a few days and now it's coming down to a problem I don't know how to fix.

[xtr21]

you don't seem to be having an easy ride with this my friend do you ??!!
Sounds like either the diff or the belt has failed inside the gearbox. You can't fit the diff backwards so that rules out that possibility - a quick test that you can do to check that it is an internal problem is to hold the spur gear so it doesn't move, and roll the car back and forth. If it moves easily without you feeling any resistance on the spur, then the gearbox needs to come apart. Incidentally, the TT gearbox is marked "TT" on the side where the output shaft exits the casing but from the picture you posted showing the spur gear I'd say its not a TT. The diff is also adjustable - and it's possible that it has just come loose. You should feel some resistance if you try to turn one rear wheel whilst holding the other. The adjusting screw is inside one of the output shafts. If it is a TT box I am guessing that the belt has snapped or stripped it's teeth - on a non-TT it could be either the belt or diff as they are both prone to failing, we have killed more of these than I can remember and would entertain anything other than a TT gearbox these days. Reassembly is pretty straightforward - I'd suggest you download the part of the manual that refers to the diff though.
My advice if the gearbox is not the TT version, is to replace the gearbox with a 3 speed TT version because you will be rebuilding the non TT on a regular basis - good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

[johnybravo129]

Thanks a ton, but I think I figured it out last night. I think the diff was TOO tight. When you tried to spin a wheel while holding the gear it was really really really hard, not just a little resistance. I took the whole thing apart and the diff was all fine... Nothing melted er under lubed. So today I got a friend coming to look at it and we'll see what happened from there! Thanks a lot!!

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Originally posted by xtr21
Go directly to www.xtrracers.co.uk - do not pass Go - do not collect £200....................sorry, Monopoly talk took over there !!!
Seriously though, an XTR is the most fun you can have with your clothes on...........and an EVO conversion will enhance things even further. If you're local to the Gatwick or Crawley area, you could join in the racing with us - or just pop down for a look.
Go for it - junk the Duratrax and get a real car !!!:cool:

thx for the GOOD advice m8! i cant wait to lose the duratrax,

Can u all tell me the pros and cons of owning the 3 speed monsterhopefully i,ll b gettin one, during march,

l8ers,

Nitro~Freek!!!

[johnybravo129]

Here it is guys, my trucks all done. Only took a few days to rigg everything in place. I'm having a little trouble with the diff but thats no big deal. This is sort of an east meets west car. Got the UK chassis and the US powerhouse. Like my OFNA engine? I haven't seen many other people with aftermarket engines in their XTR's, let alone a short shaft :p Lemme know what you all think!

P.S.- Are your differentials stiffer than most rc cars? To get mine to work properly I had to tighten it wuite a bit, is that normal fer the XTR? I guess I'll end up buying the TT tranny, how much does that run?

[johnybravo129]

Oh yeah, I couldn't get the pipe to fit where it's supposed to go if your wondering why it's out the back... I actually think it looks neat where it is but eventually I'll get a CVEC er something that will fit at the bottom. Does anyone know a better fuel tank to get? The stock one sucks!

[Liverpool-Lad]

johny, I tried sending the diff pics over however your hotmail was too small so couldnt send.

[honestly2k]

took me car in a car park wiv a little jump in it last nite and went too close to a wall and jammed the back wheel into the corner of the wall snapped the A bit that holds the wheel on and bent a shock!!!

[pdoncheck]

TO ALL OF YOU.................

I am currently disposing of a shed load of redundant parts that I no longer need/use for my XTR. They include wheels, tyres, chassis, shells, plus loads of other bits.

They're all on ebay............... Happy Bidding..!

For those of you unfamiliar with ebay - It's free to join & very simple to use or navigate, just click the following link (that will take you to one of my items for sale) and then select the option to "View Sellers other items" and you will get a list of all the bits.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1200&item=3119584594&rd=1

Any probs, let me know.

Keep racing

Paul
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[xtr21]

Well, I finally killed a TT gearbox.......reduced the drive belt to a pile of black fluffy stuff !!! Not bad though - it's been in the EVO for over 8 months without any problem. Have rebuilt the diff - basically a clean up and re-lube - but noticed a lot of debris inside the gearbox casing. Keep your eyes out for this - it can lead to an almost immediate failure again if you don't clean it out. Sometimes you will find bits of melted plastic sticking out which just love to tear that belt apart - trim them away and ensure nothing is going to get in the way of the smooth running of the belt/pulleys. Luckily, the 'box quit at the end of Sundays session, and it had been pushed really hard all day.....I even burnt my finger on one of the alloy output shafts !!!
One other piece of advice - if you buy a car secondhand, do the diff check immediately. One of our members bought a "brand new" XTR secondhand which had been converted to 3 speed. He just tore the diff out on it's second outing because the guy he bought it from didn't tighten the diff correctly when he fitted the output shafts (the guy alledgedly works for a model shop as well)
One other interesting note.....on the instruction leaflet that came with the 3 speed kit Schumacher do not recommend it for "off road use" due to the bumps causing it to change up too quickly - get those EVO's lined up guys........here we go !!!

[pdoncheck]

3 Speed not suitable for Off Road Use ????????

Why on earth supply a 3 speed to go on an OffRoad Buggy then?

I'm lost - suggest everyone asks Schumacher to start supplying the single speed again until they resolve their problems!

Go tarmac guys - much more fun!

[Keybaud]

1. I'm about to get a Thunder Tiger EK4, which prefers fuel with 20% oil and 20%+ nitro, but I also have a XTR 21, so would prefer to run a single fuel type.

How much better or worse will the following fuels be for the XTR

Dynaglow 10% Nitro 10% Oil (8% Synthetic 2% Castor)
Dynaglow 16% Nitro 10% Oil (8% Synthetic 2% Castor)
Supaglo 16% Nitro 20% Oil (16% Synthetic 4% Castor)
Supaglo 25% Nitro 20% Oil (16% Synthetic 4% Castor)

Alternativley, does anyone know a suitable fuel for both cars that I can get in the UK, or do I stick to 2 different types....or start to mix my own?

(I'm looking at the Supaglo 16% as being a possible candidate for both)

2. So glad I bought a second hand single speed (if the 3 speed comment is valid), as I burn it all over the Malvern Hills.

3. I'll be lurking on Ebay, Paul. :-)

Thanks,

Simon

[xtr21]

Blue Thunder - 10 or 20 %
Same engine in both cars I believe - TT Pro 21
Only fuel xtrracers use now - and we've tried plenty !!!
Sure you'll get many differing views though - seems that it's each to their own.............
Pete
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[xtr21]

Thought you meant the EB-4 buggy...........The EK-4 has a monster TT Pro-70 engine doesn't it ??!!
Still reckon Blue Thunder 20% would suit - the XTR may struggle to keep its feet on the ground with that in its tank though.........
One important point - we don't run 20% in the XTR's because it definately shortens the engines life.

[pdoncheck]

Simon - Which Fuel???????

What about Blue Thunder 20%? Our experience with this cannot be faulted. None of us have had any major issues since migrating to this fuel. A second option which I use as my reserve fuel is Model Technics QuickFire 10%.

Hope this helps, though why do you want an EK4??????

Also in case anyone is wondering - we have no allegiance whatsoever with Blue Thunder or its suppliers - it's just bl**dy good fuel!

Any modelshop/hobbystore can secure Blue Thunder Fuel through CML Distribution - although they can be notoriously slow in delivery sometimes - best by a couple of gallons at a time when you get the chance!

Oh yes - Buy anything less than 1 gallon (and don't pay more than £20 for it) - and you will pay a heavy surcharge, the smaller quantity units are way to expensive......£8 for a quart I think - Thats £32 a gallon!

Have Fun.................

Paul
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[pdoncheck]

Just to confirm we use 10% Blue Thunder in our cars. However you can also get 20% as well............

Paul
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[Keybaud]

Thanks for the replies so far.

Does anyone know what the oil content of Blue Thunder 20% is.

The EK4 has a modified .70 helicopter engine and it needs a high oil content to cool it. The guys that run it have also found that it runs "cooler" with a high nitro content!!!!

Basically, the original recommended fuel overheated the engines and caused internal damage. Trial and error has pointed to a 20/20 nitro/oil mix as being the best.

Why do I want an EK4? Same reason as lots of other XTR owners have one. Its the Monster Truck on steroids, the same way the XTR is a stadium truck on steroids. The XTR is great for screaming over rough terrain at Mach 2, the EK4 is great for wheelying over cliffs. :-) Go look up some of the EK4 videos and forums. It has a similar effect on people as the XTR; love or hate, there is no in between.

Simon

[Keybaud]

In some of the earlier posts, which I can't find now, a better servo saver was mentioned. Could a kind soul let me know which one it was.

Thanks,

Simon

[dazza.d]

Hi im new to this site,
well not really i have read every single post. It took some time but what a great thread, it has been so useful. cheers lads....

I'm a proud owner of an XTR, have got a few hop ups on the little beast and works like a dream. no major problems so far, well except the ones i caused.

Curbs r the devil.... last weekend was messin about wiv it on a car park and got a bit carried away with the speed (as you do) and completly exploded the rear wishbone. I'm now awaiting an alloy one from schuie but they seemed to be takin thier time :( had hoped to have it out again this weekend an show off to my mates but doesnt look likely at the moment.

Ne way a big hello to all xtr owners :)

[pdoncheck]

The one mentioned earlier - and really is the preferred choice is the Tamiya one. Part No. 50473.

Paul
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[Keybaud]

Paul,

Thanks.

Simon

[rc man37689]

i dont know if u want to see this but

[Keybaud]

Woohoooo,

Simon

[johnybravo129]

OK guys I need help. My diff keeps coming loose and occasionally burning up. I'm not sure which model of the Desert Storm I even have... I bought it used off ebay and put an OFNA .21 in it. It's the single speed without the "TT" tranny. And I know the diffs in the older models are known to blow, but not like 3 minutes after you get it on the track.... I've rebuilt the diff a few times, I think I maybe have found part of the problem... The thrust bearing and its grooved bearings seemed like they might have been damaged, but I haven't got a chance to replace them yet. Either way, has anyone ever gotten the old non "TT" trans to work for more than a month before as long as they werent beating on it too hard? I just wanted a cheap stadium truck to goof around with but this ones gonna end up a money pit if I have to go out and get the $120 tt tranny and the 3 speed.... PLEASE HELP!!!

[xtr21]

johny,
my feelings regarding the old "pre-TT" gearboxes are well known on this forum......they are very weak and I have killed three in 30 minutes before.......The thrust bearing is undoubtedly an important part of the equation - if the diff keeps coming loose, I'd get that sorted first. One thing to note is that the current TT gearbox now comes with the alloy output shafts, which uses a grub screw to lock the diff screw in tight when you've adjusted it. You could try using a grub screw in yours.....it goes in the female output shaft screwed up against the diff screw. Maybe the output shaft is faulty - I presume that it's plastic ? The other thing to remember is that even if you sort the diff problem, the belts tend to snap regularly too.......so you're on a loser still really. In my opinion, you should go for the TT box - you could try and source a single speed version second-hand or invest in the full-on 3 speed brand new. Believe me, when you see the internals of the TT against the one you have now, you'll think that the $120 was well worth spending.
Sorry I can be more positive about the "pre-TT" but we've all been through similar problems to you on many occasions - which has resulted in all our old gearboxes being thrown as far and as hard as possible.........
Good luck mate, and let us know how you get on.
Pete
www.xtrracers.co.uk

[johnybravo129]

Actually, the old owner replaced the standard output shafts with alloy ones and it has the grub screw... I don't really have a problem with spending the money on the TT tranny but I just don't know if the cars worth putting that much into it... Is it like good enough to keep on the track without flipping over and crap? It's really top heavy... Also, if I get the three speed, I don't know if it will fit my engine shaft right as the one I currently have is ghetto rigged on there... Does anyone know where I can get a "TT" tranny used er cheap er something? I just don't have $100 laying around... Thanks a lot in advance!

[XTR3e]

i did a review of the XTR21E for a computer hardware site i work for... feel free to check it out..

http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/other/xtr/index.htm

[vsnakebytev]

Hey guys, sorry I havent been on in a while! I just got my 3E up and running again..... and now the weather is crappy............ figures right? Hey I aswell have an EK-4 I am running 40% in it....... thats what I heard was meant for it by I believe RCCA..... I havent used it that much cause I got one of the original 400 sent to the US and I got one w/ a faulty engine.... it's not that I broke it in wrong, I got heli's too....... So I sent back the engine and have had way too much to do to fix it... I intend to do it this week end..... I got it for the same reason I did the 3E Insane speed and power! Also wheelies are Fun! Hey When it hits may or june remind me to get another 3E and an evo kit.... I would get it now but I need the money for my T-Maxx and my Titan! Hey who is selling those adaptors for the HPI MT rims? Can you PM me... and can some one PM me about the EVO chassis and getting one in the states...... Also what pipes is every one using? I am thinking of the CVEC pipe.... but am unsure of the scale... and I dont want to cut a hole in my body! The servo saver in the Schuie is made by Kimberough.... I am unsure of where to get it outside the states but I am pretty sure tower hobbies has them... PM me for details about the schuie or EK-4 Hey thanks again guys! I'll see you around

[carerra]

not been here for a while, back at uni at the moment so no R/C car action for me - smell of nitrous been replaced by beer - still has the same effects though :D

i see schuie are gonna launch a monster truck, looks interesting, though i still reckon the XTR is the best of both worlds...

[borley1863]

has anyone had any problems with the dust cap coming off, of there diff if so what do u recomend to keep it in?

[borley1863]

doesn`t anyone look at this forum anymore?
:confused:

[SuperMaxx1985]

Hi guys, well my XTR was running great until recently it has been stripping spur gears almost everytime I run it and the gear mesh is always set perfectly. Could this be because there is some sort of defect in the steel Clutch bell that strips out the plastic gear? Thanks for the help :)

[Hoke]

I have the XTR with the TT singel speed transmission and I am thinking of getting the 3-speed. On Schumacher's website there are two kits:

1. U2402B 3Speed Conversion TT Transmission £42.54
2. U2403C 3Speed TT Transmission Complete Ass. £68.08

Which one should I get? What is the difference?

[SuperMaxx1985]

You would need the cheaper one because your XTR is already fitted with the TT gearbox. the more expensive one is for the pre TT gearbox. Hope that helps

[vsnakebytev]

Yeah he's right you need to get the cheaper one!

Yeah really this thread died!

Hey for all you EVO Racers.... I found some Racing Slicks, if you want some check out the other forum for the Tarmac EVO...

Hey I got one of the .21 CVEC's which way should I mount it?

[Keybaud]

On the subject of dead threads, you may not be surprised to discover that a large number of threads died when they updated the site and broke all the thread subscriptions. A lot of guys are reminded to post when an email tells them that there is something new on the forums. If this email doesn't arrive then they don't think to look here. This happened to every single thread i subscribed to on this site, and all when they updated the forum structure.

:-((

Simon

[vsnakebytev]

Yeah I was very confused! Usually I go straight to the search page and type in my name to see if anyone has made any updates on any threads I have posted in....

I dont like this new set up....

I hate this thread being so dead