Ofna Hyper 10 Sedan

[reptilian]

I own a Hyper 10 touring car & would like to have a forum of discussion for it. Let's talk about...whatever. My set up is:

Picco .12 rotary carb, side exhaust, I am on the CVEC (purple of course) pipe, I run 15/19 on the pinions and 41/45 on the spurs

Basic Airtronics AM with standard servos.

This is my first RC so I have no way to compare this chasis or powertrain with other popular brands.

I have had difficulty w/my LHS there are 3 good ones in my town, but great luck with Nitrohouse.com. If you buy parts from these guys, request the parts flyer for the Hyper 10, or you get a different sales flyer.

I will end with one problem and one piece of helpful information.
My car understeers (push) like crazy. Help!!
Helpful hint: when ordering parts for the Hyper 10 from the original instructions at your LHS substitute "11" for "224" of the part number appearing in the instructions and everything else is the same. For example:

224063 Drive Belt 417 in the factory manual
can be ordered from your local hobby shop
11063 Drive Belt 417

Reptilian
P.S. Always!!!!!!!!!!make several copies of the parts list, one for work, one in your regular car and a spare. You will be asked by your local or mailorder/webbased dealer for the partnumber!!!!

[reptilian]

Ofna stated the stock shock oil to be 30Wt which would explain the serious push. They suggested 80wt in front and 60 in the rear. Seems a little stiff, so I am going to try 60/40. I will let you know how it goes. I am mostly a parking lot basher.

[reptilian]

60/40 is a little soft on the shock oil. I am going to to run the 80/60 front/rear shock oil like Ofna suggested. I am going to continue to run the stock springs. The HPI guys that have stiffened shock oil & springs spinout way too much for my taste.

[reptilian]

I Bon Jovied the other day. What ever do I mean? One of there earlier tunes was called "Runaway." Get it? Anyway, If I had managed to get the car to go straight, it would have gone off the pavement into a grass field. Instead, it went into a curb at full throttle.

Does anyone know if the Kyosho V One R & S constant velocity swingshaft will fit my Hyper 10 TC? I would like to buy this swingshaft for $12.99 instead of two new CVA assemblies for $29.99. My other alternative would be to put dogbones in the back for $9.99. The CVA's are better.

[reptilian]

You know, short for jello for brains. I got all the suspension stuff fixed and have been trying to figure out what shock springs I am going to use to improve the push. I am currently running 80wt shock oil in the front. After spending much time with my head in my Radio Control Nitro magazines I realized I had the back springs on the front & the front springs on the back. What a dumbunny!!! That horrible, $50.00 CVEC pipe won't go back together right. The stupid, way too long stingers point almost straight down with the gas tank fitting upright. It started off straight, but all the concrete curb cissing did something to it. I will give more detail about how it handles later.

[reptilian]

You know how an rc junkie tells the change in season? When the hot whether temperature tires spin out one time & then push the next. I know, not funny. FYI, the HPI Nitro RS4 springs work just fine on the alumnimum hard coated hyper 10 shocks. I put the included fronts on the back & went with the green single rate HPI springs up front. Wow, what a difference! Before, I had terrible push, now I get some understeer, but I also get some oversteer. I bought the soft MedialPro unmounted street tires & ordered the original wheels from my friends at Nitrohouse.com. My temperature tires are 24 mm on 24mm rims, so when I tried the MP's they bunched up in the middle. I'll give a review of the tires once they are mounted. I run by car on any relatively flat parking lot. The surface type & quality are that of most parking lots.:D

[toddzilla]

are you aware you are having a conversation with yourself?:rolleyes:

[reptilian]

Indeed; I have enjoyed the conversation immensely. The reason being - I like myself!

Reptilian Kind

[ezequiel]

reptillian,
where in hou do you run? do you run your car at M&M?
I go there once in a while, though the onroad track is small,
it's where I find it safer than on someone's parking lot.

[reptilian]

I do run at M&M a little. MM's track has many tight turns making it a difficult drive. I buy most of my stuff there too. A parking lot is usually my first choice. My car and equipment are always with me. If you would like to get together, we can find a parking lot that is convenient for us both. I understand Reflex RC is going to open an outdoor onroad track. Reflex is only open like Thurdsday - Sunday after 2PM. They have a fantastic electric-only indoor track. Just drop me an email (when & if it ever stops raining).

The Reptilian Kind:)

[reptilian]

I got the original grey 5 spokes and slapped on a set of Medial Pro softs. Changed to blue HPI dual rate springs, run 40wt oil at all four corners, & removed the front sway bar. Most folks say not to change too many things at once, but this car handles much better. I bought the Associated right height gage the comes with the NTC3 & the droop gauge that comes with the electric version. I think it cost me $7 dollars total. All this really reduced the push, but instead spinning out, the rear end gets real squirly.
I think I am getting close to some real predictable handling.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by reptilian
I got the original grey 5 spokes and slapped on a set of Medial Pro softs. Changed to blue HPI dual rate springs, run 40wt oil at all four corners, & removed the front sway bar. Most folks say not to change too many things at once, but this car handles much better. I bought the Associated right height gage the comes with the NTC3 & the droop gauge that comes with the electric version. I think it cost me $7 dollars total. All this really reduced the push, but instead spinning out, the rear end gets real squirly.
I think I am getting close to some real predictable handling. HERE GOES MY HYPER 10 W/ THE NEW RB C-5 21

[reptilian]

Dummdude, that thing must be totally out of control with that big *** engine! Have you found any solutions to the understeer problems?

[DUUMDUDE]

I DONT WORRY ABOUT UNDERSTEER I JUST DRAG BABY.

[reptilian]

Wanted to talk to myself, oh and the one other person in the rc universe that owns a Hyper 10 touring car.

Purchased the HPI RS4 Pro 3 threaded shock bodies, along with the knurly adjustment nuts & the HPI caps. I had to use my body reamer to get the caps to work because the HPI ball snap was much smaller. Other than that, I was able to use the stock shock rods & other parts. This makes adjusting the ride hight sooo much easier! This has really helped the understeer.

The next experiment is going to be the Traxxas 0 degree rear hub carriers in an effort to enhance the power sliding ability. They cost about the same a pair of springs.

The Reptilian Kind;)

[reptilian]

Haven't talked to myself for a while. So, the latest includes:

Going to need some better cva's. The action is great, but a hard hit bends the bone. I am going to try the MIP's for the nRS4 2 & 3s. or GPM swingshafts. I think the swingshafts are generally used for offroad, but are about half the cost of the MIP's.

The other little experiment is to saw down the engine mounts by 2mm. This will cause some other interesting problems (carb linkage). It will put the pinions at a downward angle in relation to the rest of the transmission; I don't believe I have seen any car with any angle - the pinion is always straight across from the transmission.

Other experiments: change to a gas tank that unloads through the top so it can be bolted underneath the upper deck; bolt the throttle servo to the bottom of the UD & somehow get the receiver below the UD

[reptilian]

The engine worked just fine 2mm lower. Bolted the throttle servo underneath the deck to lower some of that weight. The understeer is still pretty severe onpower. I am also looking at getting the receiver under deck.

Changed over to a tc3 32mm flywheel & clutch shoes. I am hoping to get a little stall action. There are some stiff springs available for the clutch for about 200 pennys.

Running extreme droop on the rear (7) which really assisted with the power sliding.

I may experiment with some kind of weights for the front end.

See ya next month

[Qube]

And to think I was going to go for one of these babies after I saw one at the LHS. This thing looks LOADED. 'Carbon fiber' parts everywhere. Purple ano everywhere, even on the smallest nuts. Only plastic is the receiver housing and the arms it looks. Comes with a FC12 (or was that 15?) for only $365 CDN. No radio gear of course. Was thinking of picking it up and slapping on an XR2 radio. Parts may be a pain in the butt to get...

[reptilian]

What is the FC 12? Is this a Fantom motor or the Redhead Ofna puts on it? The bad news is:

A hard crash will bend the CVA's ($29American) per pair
A hard crash will break the steering knuckles (replace them with the aluminum versions that go on the Pirate 10 Monster)
Stock springs are way too soft (HPI springs are about $4 a pair)
Shock oil is way too light, but it is cheap
Replacing the long front belt is a bitch

The good news is:

It is relatively sturdy
The engine mounts are fully adjustable; from side to side & front to back. So you can put almost any size and configuration of engine.

It is very adjustable: Camber, front toe, droop/downstop

You may want to consider the LD3 by Ofna. Get the two speed version which should be around $415cad. For that you will get the Blazer Sport AM plus the fail safe.

I have had a blast my Hyper 10 as you can tell from my self talk

[Qube]

Well I got it... the Hyper 10. There are lots of similar suspension parts to the RS4 so I'll be upgrading to aluminum shortly. EVERY available option was included in this car. The outside says Pro. It comes with the Femca 1001 pipe etc... let me show you the picture. Note, I didn't bother using their included purple air filter. Carbon fiber EVERYWHERE and those oh-so-nice purple 'rings' around the screws are a very nice accent! The engine I speak of is the Force .15, rotary.

[puribong]

do you guy can locate any online hobby shops that carries parts for Hyper10 touring car???
I don't see any hobbyshop that carries this car and parts. Car looks very nice but w/o any parts support........

[Qube]

Parts support isn't bad because most parts are interchangable with the HPI RS4 ... like the arms. Others are 99.9% and require very slight modding. Else, my LHS carries a good selection, unfortunately not mail order.

[puribong]

so most suspension parts including front and rear wheel hub and upper and lower arm are interchangable with RS4? any other parts that are interchangable w/o any mod?
which RS4 are you talking about? RS4 2 or RS4 3?

I already have nitro OB4, LD3, TS4N but I am thinking about getting this car only b/c this car is very cheap and I have few engine left around but I am worrying about part support. my lhs doesn't carry parts for Hyper10.
It will be great if many parts on Hyper10 is 100% interchangeable with HPI RS4. If that's the case, I will probably get one.

[puribong]

I am looking at my RS4 sport2 front end and I can see that front suspension parts looks very similiar to Hyper10's front suspension parts on your picture especially the lower arm and upper arm.

[reptilian]

Nitro House carries the Hyper 10 parts!! They are mail order with the main benefit being THEY ARE LITERALLY NEXT DOOR TO OFNA & CAN WALK OVER TO CHECK FOR PARTS!!!

I seems the RS4 2 lower arms & hub carriers (front only) are compatible, I don't know about the rears. HPI makes some graphite (very hard, but light) lower arms & hub carriers that could be of some benefit.

The aluminum front & rear hub carriers for the Monster Pirate 1/10 (part number 14616, C-Hub style) are direct replacements.

[puribong]

nitrohouse web doesn't show anything about Hyper10 so I guess I will need to call them with part number if I want to order the parts.
I thought about getting Hyper10 b/c it's so cheap but I am going to hard time finding parts for it so I guess I will just pass it.........
I thought most of its parts were interchangable with RS4 2 but I guess not...

[Qube]

Shame :rolleyes: It is quite a decent car... esp this 'pro' or 'full option' version. Most of the important parts are interchangable with the RS4. The only difference (and non-mod'dable) is the bulkhead. Fortunately mine has the 'carbon fiber' braces all around both bulkheads.

Psst... StreetForce GP for SALE (http://www.torontorc.ca/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?act=SC;c=2) ;)

[Qube]

So is that it? No one else in the entire world (that visits these forums) owns a Hyper 10? :rolleyes:

-----
torontorc.ca

[reptilian]

Just 3 Me, Myself & I. Well maybe one or two others.

[Qube]

Well, the rear belt is fraying and needs to be changed soon. Is it the same length as the RS4 perhaps or any other?

I will be porting the included Force .15 tomorrow. Just did the DuraTrax Velocity .15 with awesome results. These two blocks are extremely similar.

[reptilian]

I don't know on the belt question, but look in the manual, then go to Omni Models website & check there. It will also provide a part number.

Cool on the mods! I am not brave enough to grind on my P&S or the block. My mods are the "Turbo Omega XT 12 SG crankshaft & conrod, plus the STS Slide carb, which are just bolt-ons.

[Jewettracing]

Hello all, (well Reptillian and Qube) hey you guys might be enlightened to know several people are buying up the last Hyper 10's from Tim at Nitrohouse on eBay, including myself, so I think total Hyper 10 owners might actually break into the double digits!

When I snagged mine off eBay, I knew I was getting a pretty decent Nitro/sedan rig, but I didn't realize what an elite crowd I would enter! Hehe!

Anyway, just wanted to ask if anyone has seen any good setup suggestions for the Hyper 10, or well any information, like parts interchange, any hop-up parts that were available at one time. Is anyone out there running a centax type clutch? Does anyone know of a centax type clutch application that will fit the Hyper 10, or know of a clutch type 2-speed setup that fits? I have done a little research and I plan to try the clutch setup from the HPI R40 car since it seems to have the right offset, gears, etc.

I posted a msg over at Ofna.com about parts needed to run an SG style crank see http://pub77.ezboard.com/fofnaracingnitrotalkbackfrm29.showMessage?topicID= 14.topic for detail info.

I talked to both Ofna and Tim Bump over at Nitrouhouse and either seemed to have a wealth of knowledge on the car, of course they want to sell me an LD3 now, which I highly doubt will be an option considering they dropped the Hyper 10, OB-4, Z10, and who knows what else, if I ever get serious I will consider Serpent hardware over Ofna.


Thanks!

[reptilian]

One of the best features of the hyper 10 is the motor mounts adjust 4 ways; no additional parts needed for SG (I have an SG).

centax clutch is a race only item.

Hop ups?
heavyer springs! Get shorter ones like 23-26mm in height
tuned pipe Anything is better than the stock pipe
inserts don't use the "foam" get some molded
cvd's not an immediate need, the stock ones bend
steering knuckles graphite from HPI or aluminum from Pirate 10

Mods/changes/set-ups?
motor mounts shave the top 2mm
flywheel 32mm for NTC 3 & NTC 3 clutch shoes
chasis grind a space for the lower clutch bell
or
transmission entire 30mm 3 shoe GT 4 from Trinity
droop 7 or 8 front & back, so the suspension arms
do not drop below the chasis
sway bars remove front, keep rear
chasis stiffener add 1 mm shims (it rubbed the top of the rear
belt)
shocks front all the way into the mounting holes for
shock tower; use the graphite tower for stiffnes
rear all the way to the outside
toe-in,out,camber use the manual's adjustable link measurements

The mods/changes/set-ups + springs will get this thing moving!

[Jewettracing]

Cool, thanks for the info Rep...

So you are running the GT 4 clutch type 2-speed in your rig? Does it really shift smoother? My son who drives this setup (he is a beginner) usually looses it coming off the turns when it clicks into high.. I just put an HIP centax clutch setup on it to see if I can "tune out" some of the harshness. So stiffer springs? The car seems to push pretty bad now, I would think stiffer would only worsen the push, but will see what I can find..

Oh.. you mention a manual? "camber use the manual's adjustable link measurements" what manual are you referring to? The only thing that came with the kit was an Ofna catalog (nitrohouse) and a goofy RTR parts listing thing, basicly very little setup info if any at all other than how to tune the stock engine..

We are already running a better pipe, a Novarossi 56205 in-line on an M12 3 port (for the track) and a Top TT12 turbo for open class, with HPI pinion's (running 14/20), so acceleration is no problem, but the harsh shifting is a challenge, and we are working on improving the handling.. Mostly the chassis needed to be checked, I mean out of the box it had like 2 deg toe out in the front. and the ride height was really high, I think the kit ships in "toy" mode setup, you would think they could at least provide some basic guideline setup with it for anyone planning to compete with it.. My son will run this car in the nitro sedan club events coming up later in the month, I just hope to work out many of the bugs by then..

[reptilian]

I meant the transmission connected to the engine for GT 4, not the two-speed, forgive me.

Try these to reduce the "push"

1.) Droop or downstop needs to be 7 or higher so the lower
suspension arms are completely horizontal (front & rear)
2.) Remove the front sway bar
3.) The rear shocks should be in the outter most holes top &
bottom
4.) Front shocks (top) should be layed down into the same holes
as the graphite shock tower, bottom outter most holes
5.) I don't know what measurement these produce, but my
factory suggests:
Adjustable steering links (left & right) 17mm of metal showing
Steering servo link 19mm of metal showing (between the
plastic parts)
Upper rear a-arms 12.5mm between the plastic pieces
Upper front a-arms 3.7mm between the plastic pieces

[Jewettracing]

Thanks again for the info! Did yours come with a 29 pg manual? I think mine got shorted a manual or something, I nagged to Tim over at nitrohouse..

Anyway I think you are the authority on this car, at least on the web! And apparently the first owner? LOL

Later

[reptilian]

Yes, I have the 29 page manual. It's decent for not having any verbal explanations. I have owned it for two years & only run 1.5 gallons through the engine. So, most of the time I just tinker.

Good luck, keep up the chat & maybe you can help me figure out some things to do. I am especially interested in changing over to a clutch two speed from the pin style. The pin style works great, it's just a little jerky:cool:

The Reptilian Kind

[790racer]

Thanks for the info guys, I think I'm going to pick one up off ebay.
$100 is dirt cheap for what you get.

[Qube]

The rear belt is finally starting to show signs to wear. It's fraying here and there. Does anyone know the length and/or replacement options for this one? I'm speaking about the rear one around the rear diff.

[Z00M]

Hello there,

I bought a Ho Bao Hyper10 Pro kit a couple of weeks ago and have been developing for racing since then. I am in Australia.

I ran the car for a couple of tanks after the break in period. After that I tore the car down to check how it was all going.

The things I found that needed fixing up are:

Front and rear diff bulkheads actually rub on the drive belts. When you look at the casings the belts have worn smooth parts on it. Out with the dremel tool and sort out some clearance for the belts. This issue is due to the 39T pulleys for the diffs being used in a space normally used for 32T electric pulleys.

The rear belt rubbed on 2 different things as well as the bulkheads. One was the rear chassis upper brace (mentioned here before I think) and the other was the anodized lower pivot pin brace. Needless to say the rear belt looked pretty ordinary very quickly. I replaced it with an HPI belt.

Once I put the car back together, I ramped up the speeds a little and the first hit on a gutter resulted in a broken front upper pivot pin mount on the bulkhead. Replacement part (Ho Bao originals) were cheap, but this was inconvenient to be so fragile in the front. I made a new carbon fibre front shock mount that went lower than the standard one, and used longer hinge pins to go through the modified shock mount for a more stable front end. This also eliminated a lot of slop in the front end.

I raced the car the next weekend without much success, really bad oversteer. After that weekend, I paid close attention to the diffs. I have put 100,000 wt mugen silicone oil in the front and 50,000 wt silicone oil in the rear.

I added a set of foams and raced the car a fortnight later and ran 3rd in class, and qualified only 10 seconds behind the TQ (Kyosho V1S and only 5 seconds behind second place qualifier (Tamiya TG10 with bulk mods). I ran 3rd in the race but was later disqualified for having the wing on the Mazda6 body higher than the roof. This was my fault for not knowing the rules.

I have added a Hong Nor Torque adjustable clutch and bigger pinions since I was running out of steam on the straight.

Next meeting is this sunday, so I'll let you all know how it goes.

Cheers,

Z00M.

[Ryan Mack]

ZOOM

Where did you get your replacement parts from???

Ryan

[lunatic_200]

Does anyone know if the Hyper 10 Nitro and electric use the same chassis and suspension components? I hope so.............

[Ryan Mack]

Yes they do.

[cantdrive55]

Hey whats up Reptilian, i just purchased the hyper 10 from a buddy of mine but the rear upright hubs were busted... when i called nitro house i gave them the part # from the manual which was 11006 and when i received the parts they were aluminum and not plastic and they were not a direct replacement.... If you can please email me or get back to me on how to fix this problem i would great appreciate it...... Thanks

[SiL_15_80]

hey guys i got a hyper 10 and they are no good. :eek: had it for almost a year now, the front bit of the arms hold on to, if you crash that bit breaks soo easy. just wonna say Hper 10s are not that good. :confused: There are hell batta Nitro cars out there which im looking forward to get a Nitro TC3 they seem to be pritty good.

[scolzey]

hey everyone,
just bought a hobao hyper 10 and need help!!

payed $150 for it off ebay (dont know if that is a good price) and cant seem to get the car to idle. i have tryed tuning it but still no difference. it only keeps going if i have the throttle on.
i live in australia, Queensland so if anyone lives in near me email me so we can get together.
(also the car is brand new)

plz help!!!!