Original RC10T Forum

[rob_b]

a little more detail

[rocknbil]

^ ^ That simply kicks ass. :D

I love the chassis stiffeners - did you fab those or are they from some kit? By the way the goldie is a buggy chassis, no big, but curious if there's any buggy parts left there - the buggy tranny, as I recall, is a slightly higher final drive than the truck. Is it a stealth in there?

Sweet! :D

[SteveK]

Nice work. I did something similar to those chassis braces, cutting up my Bolink Legends chassis to stiffen up a graphite plate chassis I have. Worked very well, though I never weighed it to see what it added.

I forget the numbers, but the graphite chassis was about 50% the weight of the stock tub, but it was actually more flexible without some kind of brace or upper deck.

Factory Works still sells their stiffener set for the tub chassis.

[rob_b]

i made everything you see there, as far as the gold chassis i chose to use it for a old school look. every part is new exept for the receiver. the tranny is the rpm conversion with mip internals. right now i am planning a double deck, carbon fiber chassis, ill post some renderings as the progress continues. heres a picture of the chassis during consturction

[rob_b]

i have also added about 3/4" of wheel travel to it(i plan on jumping) this is set at max height

[rocknbil]

LOL! Sweet. Back up a few pages and check out mine (graphite) and adam lancia's stiffener mod. His was a kit and mine was hand-fabbed, I run them on both 10T's, and they bear a STRANGE resemblance to yours, though not as pretty, right down to the placement of the cross-braces in front of the battery and where you've got them anchored. Jungian synchronicity. :D

I like the way yours touch deck, gives an added bracing, I left mine aerial so it's easier to clean under.

[rob_b]

the front cross brace is to hold the battery down, i tied the main brace to the floor with some fiberglass angle. that was mainly to hold the battey from moving front to back. if i were to do it over, i think i would have used the 3/16 rod to and not even tied it into the floor. rocknbil, to tell you the truth i did study yours before i built mine, but i could not tell how you mounted the braces to the rear.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by rob_b
. . . to tell you the truth i did study yours before i built mine, but i could not tell how you mounted the braces to the rear.

That's totally cool! When do I get my royalty check? :D hee hee
And you've well improved on it too, that rocks.

Just FYI, I used those RPM square servo blocks, mounted the blocks with 440's through the back of the shock tower, then through the sides of the braces into the blocks. They're down inside the braces next to the ESC on either side. Yours are obviously way more efficient!

The only think I'd suggest - if you notice you have more steering to one side or the other, look at how my servo is mounted with the horn facing straight into the chassis. This allows you to get perfectly perpendicular to the steering linkage, giving you equal push to both sides. It requires only new mounting holes in the chassis, and one larger hole to access the servo screw from beneath.

[rob_b]

i went through a few designs for connecting the rear of the brace, ended up just bolting into the rear bulkhead and chassis, also ran another cross brace to sure everything up. the chassis has almost no flex in the rear but the front is a different story. if i could run a cross brace in front of the servo i think it would make a big difference but there just is not any room. the only way i could do it is totaly above the chassis but then the buggy body would not fit(the truck body wont fit because of the extended front tower). as far as steering, this is the one area that needs major attention. i have the mip bb kit but it is too short to work with the extended travel. i dont know what im going to do. its funny you called me on the steering, yesterday i reilized that the servo could not steer to the right as well as to the left.

[rocknbil]

^ ^ I've never liked the MIP steering setup. I have about 3 sets in my box I've ripped out of junkers, want 'em? :D

The BB steering linkage negates the stock servo saver setup, so you have to use an on-servo saver, and those have too much play for me, and also are not adjustable. I've never had an ounce of trouble with the stock steering outside of wearing them out! They're nice and tight with about 1/8" play at the wheels if you jiggle the wheels hard.
In one of them, when it began to wear, I worked a copper tube inside the steering shaft, it's been in there for about 8 years now.

[SteveK]

I personally love on-servo servo savers.

If you like the bellcrank-mounted ones, Associated upgraded their SS for the tub-chassis buggies to match the 10T. Basically they shortened the 10T arms and used the new units for the T2 and upgraded GT models. They also came on the RC10DS, and will fit buggies too.

[rob_b]

i agree fully, the mip streering is not very useful. but i have already cracked one of the stock arms too as well as a servo mount,(guess i should not have jumped the thing off of a 12' cliff) whats to keep from running two servo savers? my guess would be too much slack.

now rocknbil, dont accuse me of steeling your idea but its not my fault that you fixed (what i thought was a problem when i first assembled the kit in the early 90's) with a simple change of planes for the servo horn(good engineering!!!) .

at first i did not see the point, but after discovering that my car could not turn to the right, i now see that having the servo in the same plane as the streering is the only way to go. so i guess the body will have to be trimmed to make room. thanks rocknbil.

now how can i get rid of the bump streer that im getting in the last 3/8" down travel(damn longer shocks)?

anyways, i hope to have the servo remounted this afternoon.
thanks again rocknbil

[rocknbil]

Heh. One can't steal that which is freely offered. :D

Originally posted by rob_b
.....so i guess the body will have to be trimmed to make room. ...

You shouldn't have to trim the body at all, the servo will sit lower than the shock towers even with a big Futaba high-torque servo. The only thinkg that "could" be troublesome is accessing the servo horn screw, but the extra hole makes that easily accessable.

[rob_b]

i am running buggy bodys because of the tower height, if i put on the more traditional front tower the truck body will fit but the tires rub while turning.

anyways got the servo remounted and tested it out, works much better

[rob_b]

all i need now is a HD servo horn

[SteveK]

LOL: That's exactly what I did with my truck and vertical plates about 8 years ago! Actually I tried that with the chassis about 10 or 11 years ago, but I used vertical posts, but it was just brass tubing and long screws, and it kept coming apart (I may have forgotten to use locknuts).

With the chassis plates, I bolted the servo to it, and have the servo saver right down near the chassis, and the tie-rod went to the underside of the RPM bellcrank. I actually didn't need it with the graphite chassis, because you can move the servo to properly line up with the bellcranks.

What you really need is a 180 degree bellcrank like the A&L/Factory Works bellcranks. Masami used one like that in one of his RC10s years ago.

[rocknbil]

< snicker >

:D

[rob_b]

by moving the servo off of the floor there was room to put another cross brace. it does not make the front end rock solid but its close. to do any better i think you would have to put the cross brace where the OE braces bolt to the chassis, only trouble is the servo saver is in the way. also i have thought about making extended OE replacement braces a 1/4" longer so that i could use two bolts to connect them with the chassis. any thoughts about this, would it be worth my time?

just to let everyone know, the braces are 3/16" 6160 T6 aluminum rod with a hard anodized coating. the threads are rolled not cut. you can get the rod at mcmaster-carr for $2.46 a foot.

[SteveK]

So does that rod come with the threads already in it, or do you do it yourself?

As for the front braces, I don't think it would make much difference. There isn't a whole lot of flex there anything: It's all in the middle of the chassis, and at the rear bulkhead.

[rob_b]

nope its solid rod. have to drill and tap, just make sure you drill straight because a 4-40 bolt is pretty big for the size of the rod

as for chassis flex, the current brace system pretty much eliminates all rear bulkhead and mid chassis flex. all that seems to flex slightly is where the OE braces tie to the chassis. its very small but it does flex.

[surfpilot]

I thought the T2 was a composite chassis?

[surfpilot]

Does anyone now what aluminum parts from the rc10gt, t2, t3, t4are compatible with the original rc10t? Like the steering assembly, hubs, bulkheads, a-arms, etc. I want to make the baddest all-aluminum show-monster truck ever! I think the original Rc10t is the the best! I gave my old kit (the last editon rc10team truck) to my brother, then I bought a new older kit(#7001) off ebay for 95 bucks. I am putting a dual shock setup in the back, and I'm ready to fab some new shock towers. I want to do a hacker brushless setup eventally. My brother put a 9t motor in his and with a 1500mah battery it ran 4.5 minutes (at all throttle) and went WELL over 30mph. We were getting 30 feet of air in the street! I had a maxtec stock motor originally, and clocked it at over 25. I think the ORIGINAL rc10t is the best! P.S., I will post pics soon, I am also polishing the chassis. It'll save a little weight.

[rob_b]

finally...

just got done with the last final

I did this project for one of my classes
it will let me try some ideas without cutting on some carbon fiber

[rob_b]

see if it works this time

[rob_b]

the battery system needs some work still

[rob_b]

i know its already been stated that the mip steering is not that great but i had to try something new to correct the bumpsteer. i tried this setup on the truck and it did not work all that well, the arms are just too short. but i do have an idea on what will...

[rocknbil]

Rob - you have private messages turned off, turn them on, those are awesome drawings and I have some questions/possible propositions for you.

The MIP steering is used by a lot of people, it's just a preference. What is bugging you about the bump steer, the big tires, what? It shouldn't be that bad.

[rob_b]

whats bugging me is that bumpsteer exist in the first place. i can get the bumpsteer to almost zero but then the acherman (no idea how to spell that) is all wrong. this is with all the links mounted under the steering arm, to do so i had to modify the kickup plate. when turning the outside tire does not turn in enough. i think using the stock arms in this lifted position, mounted rearward to the chassis not the kickup will get the angles more inline. only trouble is figuring out how to use the stock screws when i lift the stock arms .3" up

[SteveK]

Nice work on the drawings.

I've been scratching my head over that steering with the aluminum tub for years, and my fix was similar, but not nearly that clean.

I was told YEARS ago to leave the bump-steer alone, because that is how the suspension works. As you've found, reducing bump-steer messes up the Ackerman.

[SteveK]

If you mean you want to use the stock steering bellcranks, RPM makes, or made, some ball-bearing bellcranks that are identical to the old 'long' RC10T bellcranks.

With the RC10T, and later the GT, Associated switched to shorter bellcrank arms and moved them to the forward holes in the front plate. You can still buy this bearing (Or rather bushings are included) bellcrank set from Associated.

[rob_b]

looked at the RPM site and found them, dont know how i had missed them before. i think that i will try to use the stock ones for now since im totally broke but i would like ones with bearings because the height is easy to change.

as far as bumpsteer, i need to put the stock tower and shocks back on to see what kind of angles the steering has stock

thanks

[Pizzagod]

Can someone tell me which shocks fit on the RC10T, other than the stock ones?

Thanks in advance...

[rocknbil]

You mean as in size, bore, what? They are the same as what goes on the GT's - I could not find the Teflon ones, but here's the blue anodized fronts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJE7&P=7) (1.02") and the rears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJE8&P=7) (1.32".)

[SteveK]

If you mean lengthwise, the HPI Super and Sport MT shocks should be very close front and rear. Losi shocks might, but their stroke is a little shorter, so they might be shorter overall. Duratrax Evader ST shocks might fit as well.

[rob_b]

Try Progressive Suspension (http://www.progressivesuspension.com/rc-car.html)

EDC-2 Piggyback Reservoir Shocks - $76.50 a pair.
-----EDC-2001 4 in. Associated™
-----EDC-2002 3.75 in. Associated™
-----EDC-2003 3.5 in. Associated™
-----EDC-2004 3 in. Associated™

Not sure about the front, but the rear are 4"

[10tbless]

Hello All, I am new to this forum as of today, and am glad there are some people who are still running this indestructable machine. I have only one complete 10t with a novak brushless, and just about every upgrade possible (RPM,and MIP). What I would like to ask is, does anybody know where I might find a chassis for this truck? I would like to upgrade this as well if it were possible......Thanx P.S. this truck has BIG Cajones....

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard man! :D Yeah you can find new or nearly new ones on eBay, or sometimes RC Boyz has older stuff (http://www.rcboyz.com),, and if you can't locate one anywhere else, contact Associated, they'll be glad to help you out.

If you can't find them, I may have an old one I'll sell you, but it's guaranteed to be pretty beat and probably bent up.

[10tbless]

Hey thanx rocknbil, I'll have to keep watching ebay I guess....I am actually interested in finding a tub like the ones in your pics(with the ribbed floor pan). So I will continue to peruse till I have some luck. In the near future I'll need to learn about what the best servo, and receiver would be for my application(money to performance wise).Maybe I could get some help on this? Thanx again....

[rocknbil]

The ribbed ones are the "worlds" version chassis.

As for servo's, any high-torque high-speed servo will do, but I stand behind the Futabas. The ones in mine are over 10 years old, S9450's, 111.0/89 oz/in 0.09/.11 sec transit, 6.0/4.8 volts, all metal gears, brass spline, coreless motor, ball bearings top and bottom (arruuuuh!) They're replaced by the new S9402's.

Given the choice, choose high torque over speed, but the speed is nice too. You need strength to hold the wheels in corners. An average servo speed is between .24 and .33 seconds or so, anthing faster than .19 is pretty snappy.

[10tbless]

Thanx for the info. it will come in real handy shortly. I will also stiffen my frame at the same time thanx to this forum.

[10tbless]

Anybody have a chassis in decent shape to trade for parts? I have a lot of spare parts, upgrades as well....MIP steering kit, etc.

[rocknbil]

Depends on what you mean by "decent." :D I've got some pretty thrashed ones, but still servicable, let me see if I can get you some pics this weekend.

[10tbless]

That would be great rocknbil, Thanx a lot, and let me know if there's anything you need as far as the 10t, and I'll be happy to let you know if i have it....thanx.

[oldskoolrc]

Does anybody still make aftermarket parts for the 10T? I have a 10T and it has the rear end from a duratrax street force so it is nitro and has a 2 speed tranny. I'm looking mainly for a different chassis and front end parts. Thanks

- Chad

[10tbless]

oldskool- RPM makes some parts for the 10t, front arms and such. EBAY also has parts from time to time, but mostly complete, or partial rebuild trucks.....What is it you need exactly? I have some parts, and I believe a couple of the others here do as well.

[surfer]

well, after reading through this thread, last night i decided to buildup my 10t again, after 3 hours it has gt fr & rear arms, gt aluminum blue shocks, FTT3 rear hub carriers, and a gt steering setup with T3 blue titanium turnbuckls.... so far looking good, still have original body, transmission hasnt been rebuilt since first day the kit went on sale and was built, and it is STILL smoother than any other i have ever come across... you gotta love 10T's, there amazing trucks.

tonight after i post this, i will put a novak SS brushless system in..and my low budge traxxas system in.

Also, 1 last thing, can someoen please post a pic of the T's servo setup? i cant find my manual at the time so i cant figur out how to put the servo in, etc etc.

Thank you for you help and most of all thank you for reviving my T!

[rocknbil]

10tbless - I pulled out the old chassis, got three and one has been painted and is "relatively" straight, but none of them are reinforced worlds chassis, still interested? Will try to get pics . . .

Surfer - you mean with the stock servo-saver linkage? Check out the enlargements on this page (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html). This is NOT a standard setup - the standard is to lay the servo on it's side. My problem with that is it shoots the steering turnbuckle at an angle, giving you more steering on one side than the other. So as you can see, I've mounted the servo with the horn facing down, on TOP of two RPM servo blocks, which puts the steering T.B. in a perfect straight line with the steering linkage. You'll have to drill some holes, including one exactly below the servo horn - it makes it easier to get it in and out of the chassis if you can undo the horn from below.

[10tbless]

Surfer, I have the same set-up in my 10t (brushless), so let me know if you need some help as to gearing, and any other questions I can help you with. I am only having one problem with the brushless in my 10t so far, and that is I am bending motor plates severely. I think it is due to the excess weight of the motor itself, as well as some added heat.

[10tbless]

rocknbil, Yes I am definitely interested, could you please post a pic, I don't want to waste your time on this....I actually would like to polish out the chassis, so the paint shouldn't matter to much, just deep gouges.....Thanx

[surfer]

so far the only problem im having is the power loosens itself off the motor plat alot, i need some thread lock...which i dont have lol...but i do need it!....

[surfer]

and 1 question about gearing, im running a 20t pinion and an 87 spur, what should i use to have good torque and speed with the brushless? with his setup it looks like its only doing about 30 :/

[10tbless]

Surfer, I run an 81 spur, and change the pinion accordingly. At the track (dirt) I run an 18 pinion, which you will find is the smallest in pinion size you will be able to go running an 81 tooth spur as far as gear mesh adjustment. Also I am running an RPM truck tranny with a 2.65 ratio. with my dirt set up that comes out to about 11.92 ratio, which is good for the motor and speed control as far as heat (thermaling). However I have never gone "thermal" I don't want to push my equipment too far. At this ratio the 10t has plenty of torque and speed for a dirt track, in fact it pulls wheelies.
With your current application, assuming you have the stock stealth trans, 20t pinion 87 spur your gear ratio is around 9.78 and is probably getting warm. I'm not sure when you purchased your ss unit, but I have had mine for around a year now. Novak sent out an addendum chart with the newer ss units claiming that 12.30 is a good "starting point for stadium trucks.
So back to your question, as far as good torque and speed I have found that in the 11.00-12.00 range is best as far as heating and overall performance. But I do sometimes run in the 9.00 range for top speeds (on pavement). In short, I am happy with my Novak unit as far as overall maintinance is concerned, but am not real satisfied with the heat it produces with lower gear ratios.
What batteries are you running? Are you full bearing? Have you had a problem with heat, and or "thermaling"?

[surfer]

my t is full bearings, and im running 2000-2500 stick packs. i havnt had any problems with overheating...but it does tend to get a lil hotter then the setup did in my tc3.

now, if i was looking just for speed...and maybe accasional jumping..(no offroading, just street juping, skate park) what would be the best setup u think? and would the rpm tranny be better for speed or torque?

[10tbless]

The RPM tranny is real good for better torque, and as far as speed is concerned I suggest getting a larger battery (NMH). These made all the difference in the world to me, like night, and day as far as speed. You need good fuel for the BL motors. Although expensive, you wii find that it is well worth the money.

[BigAaron]

Here's my current restoration project. It means a lot to me because the main chassis is from my first rc car, a RC10 I got in I think 7th grade. I'm 29 now so that was a while ago. Here's what I got going so far:

new MIP 1/4" cvd's
new RPM rear 1/4" bearing carrier upgrade
new RPM rc10gt a-arms
titanium turnbuckles
custom rear sway bar
stealth tranny
Hitec hs-625mg servo
Novak Racer EX s/c
90t spur/18t pinion
Hitek HFS-03mm fm receiver
Associated Nova 12 turn (or 10t?) motor
red springs rear, silver front, 30wt oil f/r

I say it's the ultimate basher r/c truck. Almost unbreakable, very fast (pulls wheelies with enough traction!), and even does ok at the track. I still have a bunch more stuff I need to do but I am having a lot of fun with it! My goal is to dial it in good enough to give some of the newer trucks a run for their money. What else do you think would make it better? The placement of the electronics is temporary and will be adjusted. A brushless upgrade is in the
not-so-distant future for this truck too.

[BigAaron]

rear

[BigAaron]

Surfer, 20t pinion/87 spur is geared a little too high for this truck. The only thing you will gain from that is top speed but it will take forever to get there. When you gear too high it is really hard on the speed control, batteries and motor. I bet if you go to a 18 tooth pinion you will not notice much change in top end but will gain a lot everywhere else and get better run times.

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard Aaron! :D

When I'm running offroad I usually go a lot lower than that even. Like 15 or 16/88 or 89. Most of an offroad race is won in getting through slower parts of the track quicker.

Anyway what I can see immediately that would improve the handling of your goldie: Pro-line Edge tires and check out the discussions of chassis stiffening a few pages back. It will be like a completely different truck once you remove the chassis flex.

10tbless, sorry man I haven't gotten to the pics, weekends have been nonstop hectic-ness, didn't even get to run the RC's this weekend.

[10tbless]

No problem, take your time rocknbil I found a brand new one on ebay...so I am still interested, even if for a spare...thanx

[BigAaron]

Yeah, I hear you on the tires, I just run those for playing around in front of my house but I run different tires at the track. I messed around with the rear suspension today and I think I got it dialed finally. I changed to the innermost shock position on the arms, the outermost hole on the shock tower, 40wt oil and red springs. Now it handles awesome, does not kick in the rear over sharp edge bumps, does not bottom out easily, and corners excellent. It also gives good droop but keeps the axles from contacting the arms. The 1/4" cvd's made a huge difference over the old universals.

[surfer]

get this, i just found the motor my dad bought for his truck back when it was released

its a trinity boss motor...i wonder if it still wrks? lol

[crazy1]

Found a neat hop up for the RC10T. If you are useing the style of battery cups that came with the truck new try a B4 battery brace to hold the baterys in. Made a mistake on day and forgot :rolleyes: the little bar that goes accross the battry cup at home. Broke the T4 and did not have time to fix it before the next heat. Grabed the old "T" and stoled the battery brace from the B4. Did ok in the heat. The old "T" is not that far off the pace and makes a great back up truck. :D

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Hey old school, ugh, dudes!?

Grabbed a 10T today. Too cheap to resist. $50CDN RTR with a Novak 610 minus radio gear.

At first glance, one of the rear shocks had duck tape and fishing string all along the shock cap. That's when I knew it was gonna be a long night...

I spent the better half of the day rebuilding the thing. I started with the rear and worked my way forward. As soon as I opened the tranny up, I saw BUSHINGS and at least 2 or 3 of them were ovalized especially the 2 that hold the top shaft since there is significant play when I move the spur up and down. Bearings = no brainer.

Next potential weakness I saw was in the dog bones. Those skinny little things looked gutless. Does anyone make an upgrade?

Rims looked like a dog barfed them up. The "+" that meshes with the pin on the axles don't appeal to me. Seems like it's creating some friction with the carrier. Anyone upgrade for that so that I can use standard hexes and rims?

That's it for now. To give you an idea of how much work I got done on it tonight; I spent 4 hours rebuilding the rear end and I'm still not done...

Anyone have a PDF of the manual?

Thanks.

[keebler]

http://www.rc10.com/newprod/6981_cd/6981.htm.... ;)

http://www.teamassociated.com/misc/database/db_kitrc10.htm :D

http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/manuals/10t2_manual.pdf :eek:

these might help?.. :cool:

[rocknbil]

Hey old school, ugh, dudes!?


Heh heh Audi. :D

Bushings were the sport kit, first thing you do is go through all the tranny and 4 wheels and put in bearings. There's also one in the torque control, you can get away with a bushing there but I like to put a bearing in it, it's not in most of the bearing sets.

Yes, the dogbones are the first to go, the same MIP CVD's used on the GT will fit the 10T. If the + is binding on the axles, it's because it's missing the special washer (can't remember the name of it.) It's like a thin washer but the center is "warped" upwards, the washer is not flat. You push the axle through, then the special washer goes on, then the roll pin on the outside. Never had any troubles with them unless the wheel is loose and strips out the +.

If you get CVD's, you may want to go with the 3/16" ones and use the larger bearings in the hub carriers, but the 1/4" axles work find for me. The bearing is thinner in these.

The stealth tranny is the same design as the GT, but uses a smaller diff gear. The topshaft and idler ar the same gear.

Don't futz with the servo-saver steering setup (IMO,) it works really well and makes for a much less sloppy steering setup. You'll still need a 89 oz/in+ servo.

Last thing is browse through some of the previous pages here in reference to the chassis stiffness, it is the "Achilles Heel" of the 10T. Stiffen the chassis and it becomes a different animal, and is DEFINATELY still competitive, nothing like smoking a new model with an old-school "vintage." :D

[SteveK]

Hey old school, ugh, dudes!?

Grabbed a 10T today. Too cheap to resist. $50CDN RTR with a Novak 610 minus radio gear.

At first glance, one of the rear shocks had duck tape and fishing string all along the shock cap. That's when I knew it was gonna be a long night...

I spent the better half of the day rebuilding the thing. I started with the rear and worked my way forward. As soon as I opened the tranny up, I saw BUSHINGS and at least 2 or 3 of them were ovalized especially the 2 that hold the top shaft since there is significant play when I move the spur up and down. Bearings = no brainer.

Next potential weakness I saw was in the dog bones. Those skinny little things looked gutless. Does anyone make an upgrade?

Rims looked like a dog barfed them up. The "+" that meshes with the pin on the axles don't appeal to me. Seems like it's creating some friction with the carrier. Anyone upgrade for that so that I can use standard hexes and rims?

That's it for now. To give you an idea of how much work I got done on it tonight; I spent 4 hours rebuilding the rear end and I'm still not done...

Anyone have a PDF of the manual?

Thanks.


Shocks-
Well those are easy enough to rebuild, and all the parts are pretty inexpensive. If you have to buy new ones, you can get them for a little over $20 a pair for the blue GT ones, or $25 a pair for the grey/green Team shocks.

Bearings:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD034&P=7
Just snag the whole set. This is slightly different than the one called for in the original 10T manuals, as those used rather delicate 1/4 x 3/8 bearings for the rear wheels. This set is for the DS, B2, and T2, which used tougher 3/16 x 3/8 bearings in the rear, the same as the front wheels. Heck, I need some of those bearings for the rear of the truck I am rebuilding, I will probably just snag the whole set {Ignore the picture on that page** since it's only $20

Dogbones-
To use those new tougher rear bearings you'll also need new rear axles, but since you complained about the dogbones as well, try these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX36&P=0
You can also get them in black if you like, or aluminum, but I'd stick with Shiny or Black CVDs for strength.

Wheels-
You also need new wheels with the 3/16" rear axles, but since yours are munged anyway, no problem. Just make sure the wheels say that they are for the 3/16" rear axles. Associated makes a bunch of dish wheels, and RPM has a lot of wilder chromed and aluminum-look styles {Torkerz are my personal favorites**. HPI even has a couple of styles in a lot of different finishes that will fit as well.

For tires, you gotta go with some kind of 'radial', like Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs, Dirt Works, or Masher 2000's, Losi Smashers, or HPI Geolanders.

Team Orion makes a whole slew of on-road and off-road radial tires that are even offered mounted on some really slick wheels. Definitely worth a look as well.


With this truck, it really is worth replacing any parts that are badly worn or otherwise suspect. Even if you spend more than you would have spent to buy a brand new Duratrax Evader or Traxxas Rustler, you'll be getting a much better truck IMO, so it will pay off in the long run. Oh, and don't count the cost of things like wheels, tires, and a new body in your restoration total, as those are things you would likely add to a new truck as well.

[BigAaron]

I just got what you are asking about. The MIP 1/4" cvd's and the RPM carriers with 1/4"x1/2" bearings. It made a big difference. Much more smooth power delivery over the old u-joint axles. Took it over to socal raceway a few nights back and it was lots of fun! I got some new Proline Holeshot's for the back (which made it understeer terribly LOL). I changed to green front springs and I am gonna pick up some front tires next. Otherwise it's pretty good but it really needs that RPM 2.65 trans. Even with 15t/90t gears it was still geared too high. The motor is a 10t double. You really don't notice a lot of things when you run it around the house but at the track the problems are easy to point out. Laters!

[Budman_222]

If you're going to use the 1/4 axels, the rpm 1/2 in. bearing is the only way to go. I put them in my GT and both T's. It's a little more unsprung weight but I can live with that to gain the extra reliability. I've never had one break.

[surfer]

here she be at the moment:

stripped her suspension after a sudden urge to assemble one of my black tub gt's

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v257/humprnr/DSC04289.jpg

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Thanks for the help guys. Rock on!

I've pretty much rebuilt the shocks today except for one semi-important thing, shock oil... All I have is 25 and 30 weight (not much of an off-road guy.) What's a good oil for general driving? The duct taped shock cap didn't turn out as bad as I expected; it was just a worn o-ring.

Bill,

About your chassis braces. Where do they mount to on the back? The nylon bulkhead? That's the only viable option I see open thus far... Thanks, bud.

[rocknbil]

Yeah you'll see shocks and oil play a much bigger part in keeping you out of the ditches on off-road. :D 30 weight is a good all-around, if you're on a bumpy track going down to 25R/20F is probably a good idea, it allows the shocks to react faster and conform to the track's surface. I've even gone to 20R/10F on some really sloppy tracks, especially if there's not a lot of high-speed sections ro worry about.

Be sure to check out rob_b's and adam lancia's braces too. Adam's are an aftermarket kit, rob_b's are much better tooled. What I did was bolt two RPM servo mounts - nothing more thany nylon blocks - to the inside ends of the graphite braces, then right to the shock tower, there's just enough room to fit an ESC between them on the S.T. up front there are two 440's bolted right after the first curve of the sidewall. A copper tube bolted between the two braces just forward of the battery box keeps them from bending in or out and it's solid as a rock.

Slightly better pics here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html).

Also if you look at those pics notice how the servo is facing straight down, this is the only position that allows your servo arm to be perpendicular to the steering linkage, providing equal throw left and right. RPM servo mounts to the rescue again. :D An additonal small hole through the bottom of the chassis allows access to the servo horn screw for easier R & R.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I have some 25 weight front and rear right now and will adjust them accordingly. Did the drop test from 2 feet and it doesn't seem too bad, but of course that's no comparision to track performance.

About the servo mounting position. I'm having a little trouble fitting a Hitec 625MG in there. It will clear the chassis and line up with the holes but the stock lever arm on the bellcrank isn't lining up to be parallel to the chassis. Is this one of the issues with the stock steering setup? I have a vertical servo mount in the works but won't have time to make them till next week.

Chassis braces out of carbon fiber modelled after none other than Bill's ingenuity are also in the works. The check is in the mail. LOL

[rocknbil]

Sorry, we only accept payPal. :D

Yeah you will find that with the 10T, RC10, and even the early GT. It comes in on an angle and gives it a teeny bit more steering on one side than the other unless you use a micro-servo, and what's the point in that? If you want it to come in straight, see my comments above. It doesn't seem to change the C.O.G. negatively.

[BigAaron]

I don't know how many hours I have spent on my rc10t in the last few weeks but I know I have made about 10 trips to the local hobby stores! Here's what I did:

RPM 2.65 tranny upgrade with a full tranny cleaning and lube (18t/87t)
custom rear chassis braces made from 1/4" aluminum rod.
carbon fiber GT front shock tower and new black fiberglass rear.
new front bulkhead
new GT blue nose braces
new black motor plate
remounted electronics
countersunk all screws under chassis better with 82 degree bit. (some were not flush)
shrink wrapped all solder connections
proline holeshot rear tires
turned comm & new brushes
changed to green front springs

This was from last week:

new MIP 1/4" cvd's
new RPM rear 1/4" bearing carrier upgrade (uses 1/4x1/2 oversized bearings)
new RPM rc10gt a-arms
titanium turnbuckles
custom rear sway bar
new Hitec hs-625mg servo
new Hitek HFS-03mm fm receiver
red springs rear, silver front, 30wt oil f/r

Still not done but here's a pic, the rear chassis braces make it about 3 times as rigid. The back flexed so bad before that the body mounts were ripping the body pins through the holes when I jumped it.

[rob_b]

nice chassis brace, very simple design!

who makes (or made) the battery strap?

[10tbless]

Nice pic bigaaron, I will post pics of my truck, I am almost done with the complete rebuild. I am currently waiting for my Novak SS 5800 brushless system to come back from warranty to finish the electrics.

R.P.M.- Steering, Arms, Front Bumper, Two Stage Piston Kit, Rear Carrier Upgrade, Rod Ends, Ultra molded Front bulkhead, Rear Bulkhead, Transmission,
Shock Collars.

M.I.P.- CVDs

Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles,titanium hingepins

And replaced EVERY bolt on the truck with hardware from a local bolt co.

[10tbless]

Here are those pics- I polished the underide of the chassis and front plate to a chrome finish as well. I then added a protective coating (teflon).

[10tbless]

another

[10tbless]

one more

[BigAaron]

10tbless, yours is "so fresh AND so clean!" Nice! I should have gone blue with mine. Would you mind if I coppied you on the chassis polishing? What did you use to do that? And how do you do the teflon coating?

I can't read who made my battery strap, it's old. It would be fairly easy to make something similar though.

Wanna see what I got today?!? Check the pic. It's a complete RPM chassis with arms, ball bearing steering upgrade, bumpers, integrated battery holder, etc.... and I got the front and rear bulkheads too. Sweet huh? I am gonna make another "super T" with all RPM everything. About 75% of the truck comes in the kit but you need everything outboard of the arms, shock towers, transmission, etc...

[BigAaron]

Here's what came in the kit, the bulkheads are separate. I am gonna build it white and blue. I don't like how dyed parts look.

[BigAaron]

I got a test run in after the transmission upgrade.
This thing ROCKS!!! :D :eek: :)
OMG, I can't believe how much of an improvement it made. It even sounds killer! It actually looks to have a higher top speed then before, while accellerating about 50% faster. I love it when something is better then you even hoped for!

[SteveK]

NICE! Man, I wanted one of those RPM sets SO bad when they first came out. That truck will weigh a lot, but it should be just about indestructable. I wonder if they still make the parts for it?

RPM actually could make their own truck now: Include all their own chassis, suspension, and transmission parts, their own wheels, commission Associated to supply the metal hardware, and somebody like Pro-Line to suppy the tires and body.

RPM's plastic takes dye very well, you'll just need a big pot so you can dye it all at one time.

[10tbless]

WoW! BigAaron, those parts are sweet! Where did you get the RPM kit? I could sure use one of those tubs, and some of the extras as well. As for the polishing I used a really light grit of sand paper to take off the first layer of anodizing, then wet sanded with wet sand paper, and followed up with some "Mothers" chrome polish. It was a lot of time and some elbow grease, but sure worth it in the end.....Associated makes the teflon pad, you should be able to buy it at your local hobby store. I can get you the part# if you need me to though. Yes, the RPM tranny rocks! plenty of torque, especially with my brushless system.....
Today I picked up some titanium rod ends, 2 sets of rims, and 2 sets of tires. Thats what costs, too bad you can't find these cheaper.

[10tbless]

By the way bigaaron, you can't tell from the pics, because the teflon covers the bottom of the chassis, but when you've completed your polishing it will look like a mirror.....

[BigAaron]

Check your PM's 10tbless.

BTW, I heard that tires cost about $0.30 a pair to manufacture and sell for $18.95, thats about a 6000% markup, right? I'm in the wrong business!

[surfer]

wow where did u get that kit?! i want one of those!!

[BigAaron]

I'm a maniac (or reetard?)! Look what I just bought on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5905239995
I paid a little too much but it has everything I wanted to make my "super T"
out of that RPM chassis plus upgrade my current truck. You can't get too much of a good thing!?!

[10tbless]

You're a maniac!! I was just looking at that truck yesterday. I actually thought about bidding on it myself. Well, now you have the blue parts you wanted right? Twins you might say. Now all you need is some titanium and it will be a SUPER T. Right on, good buy........I'll get at you tomorrow Aaron. Later

[rob_b]

KILLER BUY BIGAARON

I’ve been playing with a new 3D program, SolidWorks, it allows me to model an assembly and dynamically move the parts to see angles and distances. In Solidworks, I have been playing with a new steering setup. I used the servo saver bellcrank by itself, moved it back to the rear most mounting hole and added two plates to the front. The result is maintained ackerman (actually I increased it a little, more like the mip setup) and REDUCED bump steer. For simplicity I made the “C Hub” static, well I was able to get the ackerman right but the bump steer was just a guess. Guess I need to go back and model the entire front-end to simulate wheel travel. Anyway, the servo will mount in the stock location with just a little grinding (clearance between the servo mount and the servo saver), if there were no side plates the stock servo saver would fit unmodified.

NOTE: The front wheel travel has been increased to the point that the stock and mip setups would not function properly.

[rob_b]

new system

[rob_b]

New links needed to be made to make everything work. Because of the extreme inside mounting points on the bellcrank the links needed to be bent to clear the front plate. I also added one of my original RC10 ti links (really old) to maintain adjustability. Everything needs some fine-tuning but at least the beast is back together for the time being.

[BigAaron]

That is super cool! I have been getting my truck dialed in at the track today but the steering is poor. It understeers on throttle and I can't seem to fix it. I would love to run custom parts like what you designed. I really want to make my rc10t competitive with the newer trucks. Keep us posted on your work. Could you make a kit? Thanks, Aaron

[rob_b]

I hope to have be bump steer modeled in the next week or so (free time permitting). After I get everything dialed it would be easy to make a set of plans or just offer up the complete setup. As I have said before the suspension geometry is also modified to offer about ¾ inch more travel (designed for bashing but it also tears up the track). With the mashers mounted the truck bottoms out about ¼ inch above the ground. You are probably aware the rear has way too much up travel causing broken and bent axles when landing from great heights, my geometry fixes that and adds lots of droop. When I originally built mine I jumped it off of a 12’ cliff and landed on flat ground. I cracked the servo saver and nicked the cvd with the outdrive, my guess is that the rear arm flexed enough to allow the contact. Not bad considering that it had come straight from the track with only 30 weight all around.

While searching the net for the RPM front bulk (really, really need one of these) I came across this kit (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/gt-widening.htm) im sure this would improve steering.

[BigAaron]

Thanks a lot, more neat parts I have to spend money on! J/k :D
That widening kit looks like it would really help out.

If you had some basic measurements I could make that steering arm out of aluminum. I have been experimenting with the front suspension too, trying to get the most possible travel, mainly for more droop at the normal ride height.
I am experimenting with rear shocks on the front. With 2 little internal travel limiters the chassis can still sit flat on the ground but you gain about 3/4" of droop. I agree that the truck has too much up travel front and rear in stock form. The chassis hits the ground after even the smallest jumps. Here's a pic at full droop, limited to prevent the steering from binding:

[rob_b]

bigaaron,

Do you mean that you could machine a new lower bellcrank piece or just make a plate extension like i did. I could give you the dim's but I found a fatal flaw in my design, everything is fine as long as the wheels are straight but if turned the inside link contacts the stock tube support. If you look back to the end of page 11 I posted some renderings of a double deck chassis design I was working on, look at how I tied the chassis to the front bulk. It's going to take something along those lines to make this steering setup work properly. Also the front plate could be trimmed to allow the links to sit lower, but it has to be a pretty drastic cut to help which I think lowers its strength significantly.

[BigAaron]

I don't think I could make the whole bellcrank, just the extension like yours. I got the rear shocks mounted on the front and the bumpsteer is not too bad at full droop. Now I need longer rear shocks.

[10tbless]

rob, I have an extra rpm bulkhead (new) if you need it, let me know........

[rob_b]

bigaaron,

I made an extension out of aluminum at the same time that I made the fiberglass one, I used the fiberglass because it is easier to modify if need be. I would rather not share my design until it works the way I want it to, but you will be the first to know when all the bugs are worked out. As far as the rear you don’t need longer shocks just make a plate that bolts to the rear arm that moves the mount up and in to get the desired travel. Then on mine I changed the rear tower mounting points to fine-tune the bump (moved them in and down).

I almost have a new front support system worked out, I’ll post pics when its done.

[BigAaron]

That's a good idea and looks real nice. I actually was at the hobby shop to get some springs today and I saw these pretty blue threaded body shocks hanging on a peg. They are made by Hot Bodies for the t-max. They have a slightly longer body and a little more travel then the stock rear shocks. I put them on and they are purfect. They limit the up travel and add down travel. I have them in the lowest hole on the tower and the inside hole on the arm. With that mounting the inner outdrive dosen't bind at full compression and the cvd shaft dosen't hit the arm at full drop. Since they were designed for a larger truck they have a heavier spring which allows mounting further in on the arm. It sits about 60/40 (down/up) in the travel front and rear. On the front I put the stock rear shocks with silver springs and about a 3/16 spacer on the shock body. It's like a different truck. I will post pics after I get the trans fixed. I stripped a few teeth off the middle gear in the trans. It was very old and the motor is making some serious power. Time to go out with the wife, she is getting less attention since I got the hobby bug again a few weeks ago.

[BigAaron]

I'm back, the movie starts later :D
Here's the new shocks, full droop:

[BigAaron]

ride height:

[BigAaron]

bottomed, front and rear shocks have about 1/8" left:
(wife Roxane is hand model)

[BigAaron]

new shocks (Hot Bodies 25011 for t-maxx):

[rob_b]

Amazing what some extra travel will do. Aaron, put the tape to the bump and droop I’m interested to see what your trucks measurements are. Because I had to redo both towers to get max travel and EQUAL travel for both ends (up and down). Anyway I got my new front brace mounted, it’s not close to finished but it is on the truck. I still need to cut out the inside of the brace and add one more screw to the upright through the chassis. Even without two screws for the upright the front end is rock solid, WAY WAY WAY better than stock. The chassis has almost zero flex in any direction, the bad thing is that the truck has turned into a tank. Guess I need to go brushless? Well back to figuring out this bump steer situation.

[rob_b]

the bulk head mount

[rob_b]

this is the stress flow and deformation (exaggerated) on the brace

the red outline is the original shape

[BigAaron]

High tech! How did you do that stress analysis? Your truck looks like it can take some serious abuse!
My truck does not cycle equal front and rear, as seen in the first pic. The up travel is basically the same but the rear droop is limited to keep the cvd from hitting the arm. On the old setup I actually bent a cvd because there was so little clearance. The travel being exactly equal front and rear is not really a big consideration for me. The spring rates and oil weight can be adjusted to make the front and rear perform properly. If it was 4wd like my xx-4 I would pay more attention.

[rob_b]

Solidworks, it offers pretty much every tool that you need to design, test and digitally prototype parts and systems. If you are degree seeking student you can get the software for $200 for 2 years. To anyone making their own parts I would be glad to test designs and offer my non-professional opinion on possible design changes after running the stress analysis. Also I have a pretty good method of making computer generated part templates so that holes are located within a very small tolerance (around 5/1000 or less) its not CNC but they are pretty accurate for handmade parts.

[rob_b]

This is an AE based front tower but my geometry

[rob_b]

My design, according to the software is 164% stronger. Not that it matters because I don't think that you could ever break the tower under normal circumstance, but stronger is better right. My goal for the T is to drop 25' to 30' feet and drive away. Once I get the design changes worked out i'll make everthing out off carbon fiber an huck some cliffs.

[rocknbil]

ROB! All this stuff is waaaay cool but you know what you may want to contact AE and propose some of your concepts to them, I'd bet anything this stuff has a pretty high-paying occupation dead ahead! :D

[rob_b]

Thanks rocknbil, but like you said about patenting your chassis braces OLD TECHNOLOGY. I would like to get a GT and modify it to the moon, and then we would be talking a much bigger market than the T. Anyway, I was looking through a mag at the T4 and found something rather funny. Look how they connected the main chassis to the front bulk. Obviously they learned the same thing I did; my advice to anyone with a T is to ditch the aluminum front tube braces. I’m talking NIGHT and DAY. I wonder if anyone out there would be interested if I developed a long travel suspension/chassis brace (or chassis replacement) kit? RC10T UNLIMITED anyone?

Bigarron, funny you mentioned 4WD. This is just an idea, but how cool would a long travel 4WD T or GT be? It could be built strictly for beating the crap out of, only because there is no class to race it in. I have been drooling over the BJ4X4 for a while now, but I think you could up the fun factor by combining this.

1. NTC3 drive train (modified with a slipper)
2. T4 arms with extended travel geometry
3. .12 or .15 motorcycle nitro engine (lays on its side for CG)
4. lots of carbon fiber and aluminum
5. and maybe inboard shocks (again for CG)

It sounds pricy but also very fun. I have been saving for a REVO but I would much rather spend my money on something that I designed and built myself.

[BigAaron]

Yeah, a 4wd rc10t would be the ultimate basher, I'll take two please. Electric sauce on mine, hold the gas.

[surfer]

if there was such a thing as a 4wd gt, then the r/c world would be so different...and so cool.

id sell all my cars for just one, lol

[BigAaron]

LOL :) :)

[BigAaron]

I did the gt widening mod to my truck. It worked out great. The bump steer is gone, the front is wider and the ball joints don't bind from the extra droop using rear shocks on the front. I also rebuilt the shocks for the front and dialed in the valving/oil/spring combo.

[BigAaron]

Here's the front to show the width

[rob_b]

Did you buy the kit or make your own? Could you list part #'s? They are all T4 parts right?

Thanks

[BigAaron]

Associated #'s:

7459- blue factory team inline axle

9577- b4 inline steering block

9580- b4 25deg. castor block (you must drill hinge pin hole out to 1/8" to work with the rc10t/t2/gt a-arm hinge pins -- BTW they also sell 20deg and I believe 30deg castor blocks if you want to tune it)

9622- hinge pin set (you only need 2 of the 6 pieces in the set)

4187- Nylon Axle/Shock/Hub Carrier Spacers (fancy name for plastic washers :) )


Tower hobbies#'s:LXFDW9, ASCC9577, LXEAA1, LXEAD9, ASCC4187
Tower has everything in stock and the shipping is only $3.99 and it comes FAST.

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/RC10gtFrame1GTWide.htm This website has all the info and more pics

[rob_b]

NICE!

I'll have to order those soon.

Are you going to widen the rear too?

[BigAaron]

Yeah, the rear just needs the outer cvd axle w/conical spacer since I already have the rpm 1/4" bearing upgrade.

[rob_b]

I might be wrong but from the parts on tower the T4 and B4 have 3/16 axles not 1/4

[BigAaron]

You might be right, I was looking at the pic and the axles look tapered like the ones I have but mabye not.

[rocknbil]

The original 10T (and even some of the older GT's) had 1/4" axles. Since the T2, AE trucks run 3/16" axles.

The disadvantage here is that the 1/4" axles require those skinny bearings and tend to burn up a little faster. You can convert to 3/16" axles and the bearings are thicker. Personally I've never had troubles with the 1/4" ones and only go through one set of rear bearings a year, and that was when I raced regularly.

[BigAaron]

I actually have the RPM 1/4"x1/2" bearing carriers, that gives you a bigger bearing that can handle more load and allows you to run the stronger 1/4" axles without running tiny bearings.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44936&stc=1

[rob_b]

you can get 3/16 bearings from rpm to fit your hubs

[surfer]

im using T3 hub carriers and axles

and i dont know why...

[rob_b]

i use mip 3/16" alum. cvd's and the rpm carriers

3/16" axles so i can use todays wheels

[BigAaron]

It has begun........ "Super T"

I tore apart the ebay truck I got tonight and started to assemble the RPM chassis. It's gonna get every hop up and mod available. Too much fun!
Here's before I started:

[BigAaron]

Here's what I got done so far. The front is going to get the wider b4 spindles and castor blocks and the rear is going to be the RPM big bearing carriers. Gonna run rear shocks all the way around.

[BigAaron]

More goodies today for the super t!
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45389

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Nice trucks guys.

When running a higher ride height, how do you prevent the dog bones from rubbing on the a-arm? Is there something around that?

Thanks.

EDIT: Aaron, your link is funny BTW.

[BigAaron]

Hey Quattro, you can either put limiting spacers on the shaft inside the shock or just use higher holes in the shock tower, or a combination of both.
Which link was funny? The new parts that cost an arm and a lung? By the time I'm finished I could have bought 2 new rc10t4's I think. I like the sense of accomplishment from building something custom, oh well.........

I am tired but the Super T is comming along. The Lunsford turnbuckles I bought are the wrong length or they would be installed already. The truck is lighter then I expected.

[BigAaron]

rear

[rob_b]

bigaaron,

i was looking through my box of parts and found these, they are the prototype lower rear mounts that i made. i used the colored holes mounted to the two inside holes on the arm. but i did not have as many holes on the tower as you. anyways they are yours if you want them.

[rocknbil]

...When running a higher ride height, how do you prevent the dog bones from rubbing on the a-arm?....

You mean the axles are rubbing when it's sitting idle or when it's airborne? You're **supposed** to set it up with a batt' pack in it and set the axles level. If you lift it up above that it will screw up the handling and the axles/dogbones (if you're using them) attack the outdrives at an odd angle and can cause chipping or even breakage. :D

However - if it's hitting when airborne and whatnot, the fix is travel limiters inside the rear shocks, they should have come with your shock rebuild kit.

Aaron - the fronts are short for a reason, why are you putting rears up front?

[BigAaron]

More suspension travel. You should see this thing going over whoops, it's great. The origional rc10t setup was designed for fairly flat tracks with small jumps. The newer tracks have more big jumps and whoops and such. I am just experimenting with different setups.

The rear axles will hit the lower a-arm if you set the shocks up for too much droop, I think that is what he was referring to.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Yep, that's what I was referring to.

Is there anything around that besides chopping up the a-arm? Just want a little more clearence without messing with awkward camber...

[rob_b]

TT, are you using stock or rpm arms?

this is from when i first started playing with the geometry, i have found no need to modify the rpm arms.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I'm using the stock arms. So the RPM arms will give more clearence? Is it significant?

Thanks.

[rob_b]

well they work unmodified, you could clearence them slightly at the inside cross brace(look up a few posts, its about .5" from the inner hinge) but you risk binding the outdrives.

[rocknbil]

Yeah, 1/8" shock limiters in the rear shocks will do the same thing, keep it from dropping low enough to hit the A-arm. It's also a fix for dogbones popping out.

[BigAaron]

I noticed that cvd's give a lot more clearance because the piviot point is further out. You have to shave the newer arms too if you run the old u-joints. The cdv's are worth the money anyway, much smoother and more efficent.

[10tbless]

Rob, here are the pics..........

[10tbless]

pics

[BigAaron]

Nice work bro, looks nice! That brushless setup is cool, every time I turn a com and install brushes that brushless motor looks better and better.

My Super T is almost done. I took it to a local hobby store to get some parts yesterday and I had about 10 people checking it out and complimenting it. I put in a nice JR 155oz/in digital servo, Cyclone esc and Hitec mini receiver. I think a new motor is in order also.

[rob_b]

looks great aaron, i really like the battery hold down just snaps in place. too cool!

[rob_b]

Aaron, I hope this helps explain suspension cycling. It’s not to any scale or model.

[BigAaron]

I see said the blind man! Nice. So what if your lines intersect somewhere off of the tower? Gotta make a custom one then I guess. I do know that changing the angle of the shocks affects the way the truck acts in corners and changes the way weight is transferred in different situations. Just don't ask me exactly how to set it up correctly. I do want to know, I want to make the best handling rc10t ever. Now I got that RPM chassis done it handles like a dream compared to my aluminum chassis truck. Once I get those b4 rear axles in to widen the rear a little, watch out!

Can anyone drop some knowledge on setting up the suspension correctly? I am talking about the shock mounting angles and changing the ball joint mounting positions on the arms and bulkheads, not just oil weights and spring rates.

New motor (pulling out all the stops for the Super T!)

[BigAaron]

I built this last night completely out of spare parts. I was going to put the black chassis on the gold truck but I had drilled lots of holes for custom stuff and the gold chassis is ok. This one is gonna be a car using assorted car/truck parts with b4 wheels and tires. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45512&stc=1

[rob_b]

Looks like you have an OG RC10 also. My first car was the RC10CE, second and last was the T. Every once and a while I think about giving equal treatment to the CE. But then I come up with something that needs changed or upgraded on the T. I could have purchased 4 or 5 T4's by now but then I would have the same truck as the rest of the world.

[rob_b]

Aaron, here is an idea for a bump stop. it would be easy to make with a lathe but it would be hard to mount it and find springs to tune it, but its small 3/8 OD. a short net search found 3/8 ID with rates from 15 to 40 lb. also it is not dampened, do air bumps add to the rebound or only to compression?

the body is sectioned for clearity

[BigAaron]

Real airbumps have valving like a shock but are primarially for compression dampening. The rebound valving is to keep the airbump from springing back and making the truck bounce after a hard hit.

I think I know what could work, those mini rc12l shocks! It would have a sliding tube over the shaft mounted to the lower arm. The shock would only work in the last 20% or so of up travel. It could work!?! I have one, it's very light weight and you could make it totally adjustable.

[rob_b]

I looked at those but thought the spring rates were to low to help much. so i looked again and found the hardest main rear spring is 2.95lb and the VCS micros have rates of 4-14lb. i think you are right, with a modified shaft they might just be the ticket. the only thing that i wonder about is what will the sudden increase of spring rate do to handling in situations other than big jumps?

[cynos23]

as the title suggest i need help in finding the best gear ratio to a direct drive electric car. i have the new D6 6 turn double by trinity and a novak tempes speed control. i am looking for a gear ratio that is good at the top end and also at the starting line. i have a 90/15 gear ratio now and 84/17. can someone help me thanks.

[rocknbil]

By direct drive, you mean no transmission, just pinion->spur->axle, like a pan car, correct? What vehicle is this?

This is a really tough one to call. The question to be asked is best gearing for what application?

A 6 turn motor - YIKES! - that's like a drag racing motor and is about as unstable as they come, electric plutonium. :D Anything you run at all is bound to push the limits of any ESC. I would say gearing as low as you can go is your best bet, but you've tried two already and have probably discovered the 90/15 gear ratio gives you a little less strain on the motor and more low-end punch, and the 84/17 gives you higher top end but puts a LOT of stress on the system at low speed and can possibly blow the motor or ESC or both.

As you go with lower turns on the motor, you get higher RPM but LESS torque, and the inverse is true: more turns= less RPM but greater torque. What this means to your 6-turn is it will do it's best at full speed, but getting from a standing stop to full speed is hard work for the motor; if it blows, it's going to be there.

For this reason, the 90/15 is a safer choice (or even less, 90/13 or 12!) If you're drag racing, you may want the higher ratios (84/17 or better) and go ahead and take the risk of blowing the motor (that is what dragging is about, pushing to the absolute limits. :D ) The only problem here is that it will take you longer to get up to full speed - if you get to the end of that race and still aren't at full speed, it's a waste.

Best thing to do is expirament. My rule of thumb (and I usually run off-road) is that you should be able to get to full RPM from a standing stop within 20 feet or less. This is because that's what's required in the shorter portions of an offroad track, getting out of corners quickly. For drag racing, it may be different for you. So whatever gearing is required to move your weight in that amount of time is the gearing you'll need. Sorry not to be more specific than that . . .

[BigAaron]

Hey Rob, the spring just has to suppliment the main spring at full comperssion. The airbump does not see the entire weight of the rear end. If you put a super heavy spring it will have a negative effect.

Cynos23, the novak tempest is a good speed control, it's rated like my Cyclone and Racer EX esc's, HUGE amp rating and no motor limit. Like rockinbil said, 6 turn is really for dragsters and all-out rpm and power, your run times are gonna be really short and you will have to gear it super low. Problem is you will be breaking traction all the time from all that torque. I think 9 or 10 turn is about as much as a 1/10 2wd truck can handle (and still be driveable). It's gonna haul some major ass though!

[rob_b]

That makes sense, so what do you want to add to the rate? 10%, 20%???

[BigAaron]

I am not exactly sure but I don't think it would need to more then 1/2 the weight of the main rear spring. That would give you 150% spring rate at full bump. What is a associater red rear spring rated at?

[BigAaron]

Look what I just found. I bought a used rc10t about 6 years ago and this dude gave me a bag with spare wheels. It went in the back corner of my closet where is was promptly forgotten about. I should clean my closet out more often! (disreguard the disaster of a rc workbench LOL)

[rob_b]

These rates are off of towers web site, you can find lots of technical information there
REAR SPRINGS
red 2.95 lb. springs (#7436)
gold 2.75 lb. springs (#7435)
blue 2.55 lb. springs (#7434)
silver 2.10 lb. springs (#6478)
green 1.90 lb. springs (#6480)

It’s going to take some engineering to solve this question. I think we need to determine the force and lever ratio of the main spring and shock at the desired point of travel. Assuming that the secondary spring and shock are mounted more towards the center of the truck they will need to be stiffer because of reduced leverage. Math will reveal what secondary spring rate will add 10%, 15%, 20%... to the main rate. As far as secondary dampening I don’t know. I few years ago I found some formulas on SAW's web site that would probably solve this problem, ill see if I can find them again.

rob

[rob_b]

BRAIN STORM
I think we are chasing the white rabbit. Air bumps don't add spring rate they add dampening. So is a secondary spring even necessary? The main spring will provide the rebound force. Still I wonder if the sudden increase of dampening will have ill effects. There are two ways to mount the "air bump". First is to increase the length of the shaft and make a female slider shaft that attaches to the arm and causes the shock shaft to compress at the wanted travel. Second a simple linkage system could offer a progressive increase in dampening. There would be more weight with the second choice but I believe that the system would be more effective.

[idnan_h]

hi all, i have a rc10t, and i bought another one off ebay a couple of days ago. it looked like an rc10t but it had black a arms, universal cvds in the rear, black shock towers. the guy put the title as "associated rc10t works edition", but i have never seen one before or even heard of an rc10t works edition. is there such a thing as a works edition?

[BigAaron]

I think he was confused, mabye he meant he "works" on it a lot. :) :D :) Cool deal, I am glad we have another new member in the rc10t club!

[GT Freak]

HOLY CHORE MOLY :eek: that alot of wheels :cool:

[idnan_h]

lol, i love these trucks, for $50, i think it is a bargain especially with the hop ups mentioned above. i wonder if there are any other people in the UK who own rc10ts. does anyone know places where i can get hop ups for the rc10t and i would really like a clear rc10t original bodyshell

[rocknbil]

idnan - I think he meant WORLD'S edition. :D

From the top, look in the bottom of the chassis. The team or standard chassis is just a flat pan, the world's has these round-ended "slots" in the bottom in the lengthwise direction.
If you look at the enlarged version of my 10T's here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), you can see the slots, these are both worlds edition chassis'.

Welcome aboard man!

[surfer]

i need to get my T assembled again

i sometimes assemble my cars for something to do and then im too lazy to put them back together.

[rob_b]

mine is almost never put together, it is constantly evolving. right now i'm designing a new brace system. i have more fun making stuff than driving it.

[pojamas]

I had an original RC10 that I wanted to convert into a truck. Turns out I ended up buying most of the parts that I needed to make it a RC10t off of Ebay. With all the money I spent on parts, I could have bought a whole used rc10t on Ebay. Oh well, it was fun. Right now I need to know how the front end assembles with the bulkhead I just got. If anyone could post a close up picture of the front end of their truck it'd be a great help. Thanks.

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard pojamas! Have you browsed back through this thread?

If you don't find what you need, here's mine (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), scroll down and click the thumbnail for the large view.

Since they reworked the site, they don't have the 10T manual any more, but here is a PDF version of theT2 manual (http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/manuals/10t2_manual.pdf). The parts are different but the front end assembly is the same. If that doesn't work for you I think I have the 10T PDF at home and can send it to you later.

[Pizzagod]

You can get the original, unpainted Associated RC10T bodies at http://www.sheldonshobbies.com for $9.99.

Click on 'Hot Deals', click on 'Body Sale', and then click on 'Associated'.



lol, i love these trucks, for $50, i think it is a bargain especially with the hop ups mentioned above. i wonder if there are any other people in the UK who own rc10ts. does anyone know places where i can get hop ups for the rc10t and i would really like a clear rc10t original bodyshell

[pojamas]

Thanks rocknbil, that should be sufficient. I'm still waiting on a new nose plate from tower, but I think that should be the final piece to completing this project (for now anyway). Thanks again.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Hey guys,

I've got too much stuff and unfortunately, the 10T has to go.

Anyone interested? Please reply here: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174166

[gene465]

Hello everyone, glad I found this thread. I just broke out my old RC10t and bought one off Ebay so I would have two for my two sons to mess around with. The one I bought off Ebay was a bit disappointing as it had been in a front end crash and I wound up buying a new nose plate and braces and servo saver set. I am in the process of getting them both up and have a few questions I hope someone can answer. I plan on running them both stock and one has the original transmission of 2:25 the other the RPM 2:65. Both have an 87T Spur what size pinion should I use on them both. The motors I have to put in them are a Green Machine2, Tower Hobbies Stocker(new), Reedy Stocker. For ESCs one has a futaba MC210 the other a Novak 410 M5. I would like to get some decent speed and run times, any suggestions? The RC10T is very durable and I think should do well with my two boys. Look forward to finally getting them both up and running them with my other trucks and buggies. Thanks Gene

[BigAaron]

Hi, I can help a little. With a stock motor you can run pretty high gearing. With a 87 tooth spur and the stock tranny you will probably want to run a 19 or 20 tooth pinion. With the RPM tranny you could possibly run a 21 tooth but you will probably notice that the truck with the RPM tranny will have a higher top speed using the same size pinion as the stock truck, and it will still accellerate faster. If you put tall tires on the back like the Proline dirt hawgs, run 1 tooth smaller pinion then with stock size tires.

[gene465]

Thanks Aaron that is a start. I have a few 20T pinions and some other new pinions on the way. Waiting for my Tower parts to come in to get the last braces and steering servo savers. I have rebuilt the shocks and trannys and replaced the bushings with bearings in the RPM tranny. I have a new body that I need to airbrush when my compressor gets here, Got a new one at a great price on Ebay!. Overall when I am done with the two of them I will have to take pictures and post it, before my two sons tear them up a bit. My own project is my evader ST and a B4 I just picked up and waiting on it to get here. I have my hands full with R/C stuff right now! Thanks again!

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard gene465!

Hey when you get a minute - browse back through the first few pages of this thread and check out some of the things myself and others (especially rob_b!) have done to stiffent the chassis. While we did it mostly to improve handling, but it REALLY makes a difference in the front-end mishaps too.

[gene465]

Thanks Rocknbil!
Ran through the first few pages and saw your stiffners for the chassis. I may look at doing that in the near future but I really plan on my kids to run on the ballfield for awhile to get used to handling them. I have both of them running now and tweaked the ESCs, just waiting on the nose tubes and servo saver for one of them which should be here tommorrow. My compressor came today now I am just waiting for some more paint and masks to come in with my other parts and I can get the one body painted and they will be off and running!. I was wondering why the one was so slow and I had a much smaller pinion! That and the transmission really needed that overhaul! I will have look through some more of the forum tommorrow and see what I missed! Thanks for the advice and look forward to being a regular here.

[BigAaron]

I took the "Super T" over to So Cal Raceway yesterday. That RPM chassis IS indestructible! It drives so nice and the new Revolution V2 motor is amazing! I have about 25 runs on it and it is just as fast as when it was new! I bought another RPM chassis on Tuesday so I can convery my other rc10t and have 2 Super T's. I think the rc10gt steering widening mod is the best thing you can do to your rc10t. Used with the RPM steering upgrade and a heavy duty servo saver the steering is every bit as good as a rc10t4 or xxx-t.

[rob_b]

Is it the reduced weight that has made the biggest difference (besides the steering) on overall handling?

[BigAaron]

It's a lot more neutral in the handling department. It understeers a lot less and it drives like a lighter truck. Not to mention the chassis is stiffer and totally indestructible, I went through about 16 battery packs at the track all day and all I broke was a ball stud. The heavy duty Lunsford tie rods with RPM ends make the suspension bomb proof with the RPM arms. While I was getting used to the new truck and motor I nosed it into the dirt from about 5 feet up about 4 times with no damage at all. The aluminum chassis would have been tweaked and the nose braces would be bent.

[SteveK]

See if you can get that truck with the RPM chassis on a scale, and figure out what it weighs.

[gene465]

Well I got the two Ts up and running and tested them out. The one with the RPM transmission 2:65 had a reedy stock with a 87/21 gearing and ran faster than it ever did. The other did not fare so well and ran hot with a 87/20 gearing with the old transmission. I used a Novak 410 M5 with a reedy force motor(I think it is a modified but not sure anyone know?) had problems with the front end wobbling and it turning even after tweaking the adjustments on the transmitter it would not run straight! I Replaced the old bushings with bearings and need to adjust the turnbuckles. I think the Force motor could use a cut and new brushes as it was pretty slow. Any suggestions on what other motor to put in and gearing to use. I have the following motors to choose from Venom fireball 21T, Epic 27Tstock, Towers hobby 27T stock, Green Machine 2, and a p2k2,p2k2pro (saving the p2s for my b4). Appreciate your help guys!

[SteveK]

Well, if you are using the same motor in each truck, compare the gear ratios: To match the ratio of the truck with the RPM tranny, you'd need to gear the stock tranny at:
(87/21) * 2.65 = 10.98, or call it 11:1 overall.
11/2.25 (Stock ratio) = 4.89:1 pinion/spur ratio. If you want to keep the 87 tooth spur gear, use an 18 tooth pinion gear:
87/18 = 4.83:1, so (87/18) * 2.25 = 10.875:1.

You can also use a larger spur gear and a larger pinion gear. You'd want to use a 90 tooth spur gear and 18 or 19 teeth.

For the front end, check:
- Wheel bearings.
- Tie-rod ends.
- Steering bellcranks (The stock plastic ones are sloppy from the start).
- Steering/caster block fit.

[gene465]

Thanks Steve! I will try that. I did replace the bushings with bearings, adjusted the toe in and camber, I do have the stock bellcranks and the steering/caster block fit is pretty sloppy so I will need to see about swapping that out. I took a good look at the force motor and it is a stock 27t that has probably seen better days! Once I fix the front end slop I will probably try the GM2 in it to see what it does before I break out one of the new stock motors. Picked up another Rc10T cheap as well so now I will three. Puts my sons and I on an even playing field! Question I have seen some of you with the steering servo upside down is this because of the size of the servo? It looks like it works better than my current set up as my steering turnbuckle is cocked at an angle. What alternative do I have to the stock steering bellcrank? I know I ask alot of questions but it has been a few years since I was into my R/C cars! Thanks again Gene

[rocknbil]

Weird. If your stock bellcranks are sloppy, you must be doing something wrong, I find I get less than 1/8" play on the front and rear of the tire, without using spacers on the ball ends.

Try a thin sliver of fuel tubing slipped over the balls before snapping on the ball ends.

[gene465]

Actually my mistake the slop is actually in the steering block and castor although the ballends are pretty worn as well. I also need to get a set of the black A-Arms as well as the white ones are just downright ugly! Thanks Gene

[gene465]

Well forget about that last one as I picked up another RC10T pretty cheap and it's the race truck so its a bit lighter and has ball bearings and the upgraded shocks. Is the tranny still 2:25 or is it the 2:40? I am in the process of switching out stuff and need to rebuild the tranny and shocks on this one but the Chassis and all the other parts look barely used! Oh well back to work and see how it comes out! I guess I can get rid of the above one when I am finished. Thanks Gene

[SteveK]

The original Stealth is 2.25:1. The T2 used the 2.6?:1 tranny from the RC10GT, and the T3 used the 2.4:1 tranny from the B2 and B3.

[gene465]

Thanks Steve! This truck is way better than the other one. Completed the tranny rebuild and shocks. Installed a new receiver and just need to install the ESC and resolder the motor. Are the narrow rims/tires give it any better handling or should I just stick with the regular wide ones as it has both to choose from. Thanks again Gene

[SteveK]

The narrow tires were an interesting option, but the only tires that were made are so hard, I can't see they performing as well as the softer tires today.

[rob_b]

the narrow tires were offered for improved steering compaired to the wide. when the T first came out all the losi guys at our track bitched that the narrow tires were unfair. like steve said they are very hard and when combined with new compound rear tires they cause heavy understeer. the only use that i see is if you are running in the sand with some paddles out back.

[SteveK]

Right: The whole idea was to essentially 'up-size' buggy tires, and give the same effect, almost like an ice skate, plowing through the loose dirt to the hard stuff underneath. All 3 pairs of stock tires were very hard, so it was at least balanced. Right around the time of the RC10T's released, late summer of 1991, manufacturers began making tires of very soft compounds, which gripped better, and basically made the narrow tires obsolete.

The narrow tires were also banned within a year, a minimum width was mandated, making the narrow tires moot and making it pointless for anybody else to make the tires (I think Pro-Line made a pair with dashed ribs, but I don't remember any else).

[gene465]

Kool! Still have to at least try them, but will stick with the wider tires. Hopefully I can finish getting everything finished and run them this weekend for a bit and see how it handles. Thanks

[rob_b]

the new RPM chassis is a roller. thanks aaron! i was going to die it black but the (mostly) white brought back some memories. i put it on a scale and guess what, only 27 grams heavier than the T4 but RPM tough. 1718 grams to be exact. no wonder it handles so well. next is the gt widening kit front and rear and finally redesigned towers for max strength and minimum weight. then maybe just maybe ill call it done for now and find anther project.

sorry for the bad pic but its late

[gene465]

Gee, where did everyone go? Rob the RPM chassis looks great, I was tempted to pick one up on Ebay but already have too many cars. I ran the RC10Ts and the race truck was superfast with an old GM2 Motor in it! It did not get hot either. Second fastest car out of 6 that I have! I did like the wider tires rather than the narrow blade tires it was more stable with the wider rims and tires. Looking forward to actually getting them out on some real dirt! Need to post a picture or two! Thanks for the help guys!

[hootienchyna]

i just picked up 2 origanal gold pan buggys fully driveable, 1 with full ball bearings.
just installed an original wide arm kit for the front end and was wondering what to use on the back, i have read alot of people using t3,t4 b3 rear suspension but dont know which is better or more difficult to do. or if i have to change the shock tower as well,

your help would be greatly appreciated

[rob_b]

Changing arm length will mess-up roll centers, camber gain and probably shock angles. There would have to be some reengineering if you wanted it to handle remotely well.

[BigAaron]

So how is that chassis working out Rob? I quit my job and I have a Toyota Supra engine rebuild taking most of my time right now, which is why I have not been around lately. I did sell my Ofna Hyper 7, Losi xx-4, and HPI rs4 sport so I am exclusively Associated these days. I'll never get rid of the rc10t's. I go back to working at The Good Guys starting in a few weeks and then i'll work on the r/c a little more.

[rob_b]

It looks real nice sitting on the bench. Waiting on some parts from Tower and fine tuning new shock tower designs. I hope to have the shock towers made by the time I get the widening parts. The T will be done for the most part at that point. The new school semester starts next monday, with work and the baby ill have very little time to work on or bash the T(we have a track but no organized racing). I'll try and give the T an hour or two each week mainly as a stress reliever.

[BigAaron]

Don't forget to put a nut on the rear screws of the rear a-arm mounts. RPM told me those aluminum screws will work their way loose and then they could cut into the chassis holes. I put longer screws in but I didn't have the aluminum nuts.

[hootienchyna]

thanks for the info on the arms

[hootienchyna]

another question, does anybody know where to get original rc10 buggy bodies from, maybe an online store or someone in the message boards has some

[BigAaron]

I put a t4 body from a friend's truck on and it fits purfect. Just make holes in the right spot.

[rob_b]

The car body i run is
protech II (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000371614&I=LX2703&P=K)
the picture is wrong but it is the first rc10 buggy body

aaron, why only a lock nut on the rear screw?

[BigAaron]

That is the only one that has a habbit of comming loose.

[gene465]

Big A, Any other bodies fit the RC10T other than the T4 Body. I am looking for another body for my son's race truck as it has the original 10T body and is in need for something a bit more updated! Think I saw a dodge ram truck body on one somewhere as well. Thanks Gene

[SteveK]

I think the HPI bodies can be adapted to the 10T with some work on the posts. The Ram, F-350, and Silverado all look good.

[rob_b]

Aaron, did you have to drill new holes in the rpm chassis to mount your servo?

[gene465]

Thanks on the body tips I think I will try the T4 body it looks pretty good! That or a Proline I looked at. Well here are my son's and my truck! The race truck on the left really flies and dusts my Evader! The middle one has the RPM tranny which I am thinking about putting it in the race truck. Anyway here are the trucks!

[rob_b]

LOOKS GOOD! I like the white plastic!

Is it the camera angle or do the T's need a front end alignment? I have used the RPM camber and toe gauges with great success.

[10tbless]

rc10t

[10tbless]

Hey guys, I am selling my 10t....I hate to, but I just cannot compete with the newer trucks..I have every possible uprade on this truck, but it is still just a little too heavy for my taste...anyone interested let me know. list of parts are as follows:

RPM-
front bumper
steering kit (full bearing)
blue arms front and rear
blue ball cups
rear carrier big bearing upgrade(with bearings)
rear bulkhead (black)
tranmission upgrade (2.65) with new bearings, rubber sealed upper, teflon lower
2 stage shock piston kit

MIP-
cvd's (rand new)

Lunsford-
titanium turnbuckles
ball studs

Associated-
threaded teflon coated shocks (T4 brand new)
GT front widening kit (brand new)

All parts are included on the rolling chassis, also the underside of the aluminum tub has been polished to a mirror like chrome finish.There are pics listed further back in the thread...........thanks

[gene465]

Rob,
I can probably tweak the front ends a bit, although they are both turned slightly. I do need a camber toe in gauge. I don't really like the older white plastic arms and will probably replace them with the black A-arms or the blue RPM arms. 10Tbless sorry to hear that you are parting with the 10t looks awsome! Alas all my e-bay funds are depleted! Interested in an Evader ST its not an XXXT or T4 but still pretty awsome little truck? How about the RPM chassis would that cut enough weight to keep your 10T more competive? I'm just a back yard basher right now as the closet track to me is over 1 1/2 hours away. Would love something a bit closer! Any TTT!

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I've been having some troubles with the 10T diff lately. Has there been any issues with them coming loose through a run? I've built dozens of Associated diffs and know the perks inside and out. I know I'm probably missing something very simple here. Any insight?

Got a little pissed with it and totally torqued the thrust screw down. Snapped the screw when I first gunned it. Haha!

[rob_b]

is the adjustment screw of the diff on the same side of the truck as the slipper. if its on the wrong side it will not stay tight

[AudiTT-Quattro]

That's one of the first issues I resolved when I got the truck. Keep trying!

[10tbless]

Gene, I don't think the chassis would make too much difference, besides that the motor plate keeps getting twisted a bit, I think due to the added weight of the brushless motor and the torque it puts out. I have already purchased a Matt Francis XXX-t and it is night and day....thanx for the suggestions

[Chewbacca]

I bet that RPM chassis is pretty bomb proof being a full nylon chassis. BUT... I think I can top that. Just not sure where to install it. In my T or the B.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49123&stc=1

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49124&stc=1

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49125&stc=1

The Buggy nose plate is also mine.

What does everbody around here think?

P.S.: did I do something wrong? Is ther a way to link the images to make them really appear?

[Chewbacca]

I really love the 2 original RC10 / RC10T threads. You guys have had some great ideas and it is good to see these old babies alive and kickin'.

Well, here's my steering conversion based on a self milled bellcrank and one from ebay for the GT, to fit 7 cell packs without a "hump".

GT lever:

[Chewbacca]

My lever:

[Chewbacca]

My steering:

(note the modified brace tubes)

[Chewbacca]

7 cells with a comfortable fit :)

[rob_b]

WOW, where did you get that chassis?

nice setup on the T, very looks fast.

[Chewbacca]

Thanx U like the chassis. My current Brushless setup is a GM EVO ONE 6T motor with the Hacker Car Sport ESC. YES it is pretty fast. BTW I found a whole T WITH the same carbon / graphite chassis at ebay Germany:

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31124&item=3753960120&rd=1)

And NO that auction is NOT from me :)

Chewie.

[rocknbil]

Anyway here are the trucks!

No fair, the pic is too small. :D I'm going to guess the one on the right is a T2 or better.

Nice rides Chewi, and yeah is that chassis currently on the market?

[Chewbacca]

Nice rides Chewi, and yeah is that chassis currently on the market?

Thanx, as I posted in the Original RC10 Thread, I'm pretty sure that the company COMCOM went out of business.

But a whole RC10T including that chassis is currently for sale at ebay Germany, I did post a link.

Chewie.

[Chewbacca]

Should anyone be interested I stumbled across THIS (http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31124&item=3753960613&rd=1) @ ebay Germany. better hurry though.

I am NOT the seller.

Chewie.

[crazy1]

It was great wacthing this happen. A RC10T won over all the new trucks in a State series race. There were some very good drivers at the track. :D

[microrcdude]

Nice! See, even 20 year old AE's are better than those losis

[dave56bug]

I'm working on a project some of you may be interested in. My LHS had a A-main racing nitro conversion kit sitting on their shelf in this ratty old water damaged box since 1992, I finally bought it, at a huge discount, and picked up a NIB rc10t from ebay, the rc10t should be here by friday, then i'll start working on it. I still need an engine as well.

The A-main racing conversion is a kit made after Kunio Dudgeon hand made the very fist nitro rc10t, so this kit has some history to it.

Dave.

[dave56bug]

http://www.fototime.com/8792D230593DE58/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/624E8A5F05BA30C/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/BED53B7E8EC5B71/standard.jpg

[SteveK]

Cool. I remember that stuff.

I always wondered what kind of a name 'Kunio' was.

[spacetraveler]

Hey,
Another new body around here with a RC10T. Mine was originally a RC10CE that I decided to convet to a truck.

http://www.jrbucud.ms11.net/rc10t/DSCF2478.JPG.

Right now all the parts are 80% recycled parts with one the body, rims, gearing, and drive shafts new.

http://www.jrbucud.ms11.net/rc10t/DSCF2479.JPG

http://www.jrbucud.ms11.net/rc10t/DSCF2480.JPG

I went for a prepainted body because I was in a hurry to get it up and running. I'll eventually paint worthy body.

[microrcdude]

Sweet truck! What tires are on the rear?

[spacetraveler]

Thanks Microrcdude!
To be honest, I don't remeber what type the rear tires are. All I know is that they are some pro-line tires I won in a raffle a long time ago.

Here are some of the truck's specs:
Gearing: Original stealth Tranny with a 87 tooth spur and 13 tooth pinion.
Motor: Parma 14t Hyper stock motor. (A 10 year old motor that was still in the blister pack!)
ECS: Novak M5
Servo: KO-Propo PS-701
Reciever: KO-Propo KR-288

I just finished swapping out the Tamiya battery connectors with Deans connectors. Damn what a difference in power transfer and battery run time.

[gillbot]

Know what parts are interchangeable across the RC10 line? I'm looking for parts for my RC10 black pan car now.

[rced1]

Nice forum. Does anybody know where I can get a shock rebuild kit (seals) for a rc10t? I tried the three links on p. 13 for the manuel. Mine is a RPM chasis off road.

Thanks, Ed

[microrcdude]

Here it is!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2593&P=7

[rced1]

Thank you rcdude. The link is a really helpful.

[microrcdude]

No problem! If ya have any more Q's, LMK, ill be glad to help.

[gillbot]

you got any links to where I can get parts to make my RC10 buggy into a truck?

[rced1]

Thanks microrcdude. I have not been able to locate any setups. I assume camber is set 0 to +1. Is ride height set with axles being level?

[microrcdude]

Thats how you normally want it to be. It will transfer more power, due to the less binding.

[potatoe_bird]

I'm looking at putting a novak ss bl in my rc10t. I already have a fm radio so now glitching worries. How fast would it be with 6 cells vs 7?

[beetlebz]

i just got myself an rc10t, and now i got myself an rc10t forum :D

i got a couple questions though, can someone hook me up with the sizes of the Rear axle bearings, and Front and rear turnbuckles?

i was going to restore the truck, but the more i think about it, the more i think she deserves another shot at the A main. I know rocknbil has a couple that he races, so i know it would be worth my effort.

i think im going to do the RPM tranny conversion, p2k2, novak dually, and of course im going to ditch the 1/4" universals for 3/16ths CVDs so i can get rims readily. so now the big question....

what other ST trucks out there have bodies that will fit my rc10t? the stock body is flimsy at best. im sure a new one would be stronger, but that doesnt solve the whole ugly thing :)

oh, and ive found that 7 cells just gives you a little kick in the butt when you nail the gas, but doesnt really do TOO much on the top end. since you cant race with 7 cells, i wouldnt even bother, personally. just extra weight, especially if you run on a track.

[rob_b]

WELCOME ABOARD

turnbuckles (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY771&P=7)

turnbuckles and hinge pins (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY755&P=7)

3/16 mip's (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW07&P=7)

rpm carriers (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEU81&P=V)

bearings (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEU82&P=V)

[rocknbil]

i got a couple questions though, can someone hook me up with the sizes of the Rear axle bearings, and Front and rear turnbuckles?

1/4" X 3/8" (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2939&P=7) for 1/4" axles, 3/16" X 3/8" (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPA18&P=7) if you convert from 1/4 to 3/16" axles. As you can see from the pics, the 1/4"" axles require a thinner bearing that some claim to burn out faster, but I still run the stocks. Don't buy those though (in the links,) get some duratrax or other brand.

I'm pretty sure the T2 turnbuckle kit is the same sizes as the original T.

i was going to restore the truck, but the more i think about it, the more i think she deserves another shot at the A main.
Browse back through this thread and look at the posts about chassis stiffening. The axial flex (twist) of the chassis makes the 10T unstable. Stiffen the chassis and it's definately a competitive truck. :D

i think im going to do the RPM tranny conversion,
The stock stealth tranny is fine, no complaints here, one of the best tranny's ever produced.

... of course im going to ditch the 1/4" universals for 3/16ths CVDs so i can get rims readily.
If rims are your only reason, also not necessary. All you have to do is drill out any 3/16" rims to fit. :D If you do go with 3/16", you'll need the smaller bearings above. DEFINATELY get CVD's though.

what other ST trucks out there have bodies that will fit my rc10t? the stock body is flimsy at best. im sure a new one would be stronger, but that doesnt solve the whole ugly thing
I've found the stock RC10T body to be much thicker than most other shells, but I'm pretty sure any of the AE T's will fit. You may have to fiddle with the rear mounts.