Original RC10T Forum

[beetlebz]

wow, thanks for the hookup rob! just for shiz n giggles, do you know the OD of the stock rear bearings?

[rob_b]

another mod is is to put T4 steering one it. this is from page 17 of the thread

Associated #'s:

7459- blue factory team inline axle

9577- b4 inline steering block

9580- b4 25deg. castor block (you must drill hinge pin hole out to 1/8" to work with the rc10t/t2/gt a-arm hinge pins -- BTW they also sell 20deg and I believe 30deg castor blocks if you want to tune it)

9622- hinge pin set (you only need 2 of the 6 pieces in the set)

4187- Nylon Axle/Shock/Hub Carrier Spacers (fancy name for plastic washers :) )


Tower hobbies#'s:LXFDW9, ASCC9577, LXEAA1, LXEAD9, ASCC4187
Tower has everything in stock and the shipping is only $3.99 and it comes FAST.

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/RC10gtFrame1GTWide.htm This website has all the info and more pics

you will also need these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=9645&FVPROFIL=++) if you dont have them

as for bearings- OD 3/8" as rockenbil posted

[beetlebz]

aye good call, rocknbil must have posted while i was typing that lol doh!

its actually not the size of the axle i dont like, its the stupid taper right before the bearing. for some reason before i spiffied up my GT, i stripped out 1/4" rims like crazy! not a single one since i went to 3/16ths

[rocknbil]

That's usually caused by not using the warped washers under the axle pins or worn out lock nuts.

[beetlebz]

LOL ok ok ill ask...... what warped washers?

[beetlebz]

....im serious.... ive never seen warped washers under my axle pins... OTOH both my GT and my rc10T are were both used...neither of them have em :O

[Budman_222]

I think what bil's talking about is the cone washer. hard to see in the pic but it's slightly cone shaped.

[beetlebz]

ahhh, never seen one, and honestly i dont see what the point of it is. ive been mulling over the manual for a couple days now, whats the purpose of it?

[Budman_222]

I think it's just a flexable spacer. I have them on a couple of my cars and the others don't have them. Doesn't seem to make much difference.

[tdisalvo]

Hey, I was flipping through eBay and found a complete but well-used RC10T that I couldn't pass up. So now, after 12 years of no electric R/C, I'm now on the steep learning curve of AE. I remember lusting after this truck as a kid...

The truck is pretty well used (chassis has some nice scrapes) but should be good for bashing. Over a few weeks I should have it cleaned up and ready for fun. A few questions for you guys, thank in advance. First, I see that RPM is still making front and rear A-arms, which will be nice. Any source for bulkheads as well? Second, the tranny is pretty loose (diff bearings are shot, or the tranny case is warped) and needs a rebuild. How can I tell if its the original 6-gear or the first-gen. 'stealth?' And is Tower Hobbies my only good source for tranny parts? Jeez $12 for the 3/32 diff balls (if that's what this takes) is on the pricey side.

Thanks a lot. I run 1/8 scale 4wd's but they take a lot of work to maintain. Looking forward to a little less bench time with this one.

Ciao,
TOM

[Trento]

you got any links to where I can get parts to make my RC10 buggy into a truck?


just wondering if you have got any information yet as to what parts you need to convert to a truck from your buggy. I'm just in the process of changing my car into a truck and should be done in the next couple of weeks. I can then give you a list of part #s that you will need to complete the project if you haven't yet. Let me know

[dirtgypsy]

Great looking trucks in here guys! You have really got me interested in rebiulding my old truck and running it again!

tdisalvo the rc10t only came with the stealth tranny. you should be able to tell by flipping the truck over and looking at how the tranny bolts to the chassis. if it is heald in by 4 small screws in the center then it is stealth. if it is heald in by 4 large screws towards the outside then it the old 6 gear. hope this helps.

I am in the process of trying to rebiuld my old rc10's including my rc10t so if any of you guys have any of the old white nylon peices you are upgrading to newer or rpm stuff let me know as I am interested in picking it up! Thanks.

hardemanac@hotmail.com

[Grandturk]

Hey all - I'm just getting back into RC. I dug my 10T Team Truck out of my parents attic and have been wrenching on it to get it in order. Its in fairly good racing condition now, but I should rebuild the tranny, considering its age.

I'm weighing whether or not to go with the RPM Stealth upgrade to go with the 2.65 ratio. I've done the math, and I can get the same final gear ratio with the stock 2.25 gearbox by altering the spur and the pinion. My question is this: is it all about the final drive ratio, or do the individual ratios make a real difference? For instance, I'm thinking a 14T pinion going to a 90T spur to the 2.25 would get me a final drive of 14.4, the same as if I were running a 2.65 tranny with a 87T spur and a 16T pinion. Any thoughts?

[mrmeiii]

any know what an original green tub is worth?

[rocknbil]

Mint or well used? Welcome aboard! :D

Used probably $50 max, if all in one piece. Mint . . well hard to say .. . quite a bit, maybe . . .

[metric69]

i have a rc10t aswell and iam looking for spare parts for it. It is a racer right now but i need to biuld up some stock on it. Would like to get a few spurs and things like that. can't seem to find much for rc10t parts does this truck interchange with any other?

[Trento]

what does your local hobby shop have as far as parts? I'm sure they can help you out or are you looking for used?

[Budman_222]

i have a rc10t aswell and iam looking for spare parts for it. It is a racer right now but i need to biuld up some stock on it. Would like to get a few spurs and things like that. can't seem to find much for rc10t parts does this truck interchange with any other?

Pretty much all the gt front end will fit. rear a arms outward from the gt will fit. T2-3-4 tranny housing is different from the T. Won't fit. Spurs from the T2-3-4 might fit. Not sure.

[metric69]

tks for the info i will keep looking

[Grandturk]

I've been bolting on parts from Tower Hobbies - some stuff is listed as for the 10T, others for the T2 and others you have to mix and match. Best bet on Associated stuff is to just bring up all of associated parts listed on the web and see if they might fit - a lot of parts stayed the same through the years.

[racerrandy]

Any of the standard spurs will work, not t4 or b4 though, most of the suspension parts are the same or close to the gt.

Later,Randy

[2ndGeneration]

Hello to all the vintage buffs keeping the history alive.

Recently I purchased 3 RC10t's and took the best parts to make 2 runners, took awhile but they are good to go now.

Been surfing these forums for the last couple nights looking for general information on gearing, found the information to determin FDR, Think I sorta understand it :confused:. At one point I thought there was a post to determin MPH but I've lost it.

It appears that , "correct me if I'm wrong here" , there is no reason to go to an aftermarket tranny for the 10t as the pinion and spur can be adjusted to accomodate.

Assuming that I can achieve practically any FDR what are the advantages, or dis-advantages, of running an 87 tooth spur verses say an 84 tooth spur, or even an 81 tooth spur?

Is there a general rule of thumb or some sort of documentation for gearing different motors, Something along the lines of "this particular motor prefers a FDR at say 12.87 or so"?

Thanks in advance for any help

by the way here is a pic of one of the 10t's, also have an original RC10 CE purchased new in '93, still runs.

[2ndGeneration]

gotta love it

[microrcdude]

those are some AWESOME cars you got there man.

[2ndGeneration]

Thanks,
Took a ton of time stripping them down to rebuild them, they were hashed when I picked them up. The suspensions were stiff, screwes were missing, bearings were spun, just a load of work.
I am happy with the end result though.
Thanks again

[microrcdude]

You did a great job of restoring those, sounds like they were "Junk" when you got them.

[Rich Trujillo]

opps my bad wrong forum

[is300zx]

Just wondering, does anyone try to race their rc10t against the newer trucks?

[Piggy89373]

color me stupid....wrong forum. ooops. :rolleyes:

[Rtsbasic]

Time to revive this thread :)

So I just brought me my first RC10T, fitted with a complete RPM nylon chassis conversion, its working out to about £15 (approx $25) cost with 9 batteries and some basic radio gear :) Anyone else still run one of these? My reason for buying this was a) have every other AE truck except MGT and RC10T, b) I love RPM parts, soo much stronger than normal plastic, and c) it looked fully hopped up, so for the price, who am I to argue?

Will get some pics up next week once its been rebuild if anyones interested. Thinking of dying all the RPM nylon parts but not sure what colour, thinking maybe a bright-ish shade of green. Its going to be brushless (Feigao 380 9t) on 6-9 cell battery packs (already planned what minor chassis mods are required for upto 9 cells flat). Should be a speeding rocket, and very hard to break stuff when bashing :)

[CARBONrc10T]

picked this little jewel up off of ebay
got some nice upgrade/mods on it wondered if anyone had any suggestions for motor
its also got a full bearing set

[Rtsbasic]

Did you mean to include a pic or a link or anything? Because nothings showing up.

Welcome to the forum btw.

[CARBONrc10T]

ok here it goes

[Rtsbasic]

Nice car man, is that chassis graphite as in carbon fiber shiny cool looking type, or graphite as in normal graphite/carbon composite stuff? Because it looks pretty unusual, never seen an AE truck with a flat chassis before, do you have any other pics of it?

For a motor it depends on your budget and your ESC. If your budget is big enough, get a Novak GTB 6.5 brushless system (around $220 I think) or a used SS5800 system off ebay (around $140 these days I think), but otherwise if your ESC will handle mod motors something around a 13x2 would give a nice powerband on that car.

[Budman_222]

Hey CARBON, that looks kinda familliar. :)

[CARBONrc10T]

how strong is that chassis i'm still awaiting its arrival can't wait seems like it should be pretty light and such. i know its not going to handle what the alum. tub does for bashing but can i race it at the local track without worrying too much about snapping it?

[Budman_222]

Its a lot stronger than the tub chassis. I have one of both and the woven fiber one is the stronger by far. The chassis in the pic was raced on a buggy back in the late 80's and then on the truck it's on now for two seasons a couple of years ago. Still going strong. You won't break it.

[Saito]

Graphite is plenty tough. Stiff and light. I remember when you "needed" it to be competitve. Oddly enough, the manufacturers did a turn around in the early '90s. Assiciated started running the aluminum tubs again and Losi went to some weird molded matrix plastic. Anybody remember the old Fusion Speed graphite TUB chassis?

[Rtsbasic]

Been running my RC10T back to back for a couple of days :) Had to change the CVD's and rear hubs out with some off my T2 as I use 3/16 axles and it came with 1/4. Rebuilt the whole car, re-oiled all the tranny bearings, wheel bearings and steering bearings, rebuilt the shocks (used 60wt oil with No.2 piston and red springs all around, as I jump my cars a lot I like a lot of dampening). Ride height slightly higher than level wishbones.

I'm pleased with this beast :) Waiting on my new brushless ESC, but with a 15x4 motor and 9 cells it rips. Even on 6 cells performance isn't too bad for the weight of the truck. It accidently cartwheeled into a curb after coming off the ramp a bit dodgy at ~35mph, really suprisied nothing broke.

[corman007]

ok here it goes
You just can't wait :) It's a nice truck you'll love it. I have a few more I'm building to sell on ebay. I'll post them up when I have them ready. Since you guys keep buying all my builds I'll try here first.

[Rtsbasic]

Corman007: Do you have any RPM parts for the car that have been discontinued? I'm in talks to get some directly from RPM but its working out quite pricey. I haven't broken anything yet, but would hate to write off part of the RPM conversion and not be able to use the car because I can't replace it.

[corman007]

Corman007: Do you have any RPM parts for the car that have been discontinued? I'm in talks to get some directly from RPM but its working out quite pricey. I haven't broken anything yet, but would hate to write off part of the RPM conversion and not be able to use the car because I can't replace it.

I have a few lety but I don't think you will break them. I have had the same arms on my back yard basher for 15yrs and they are still alive. I see them on e-bay all the time. Hope you enjoy the truck

[moparhemifan]

I have an oooooooooooooooooollllllllllllllllddddddddd RC10 (gold chassis tub thingy), and it seems to be like, wayy back from the 80's. I am relatively new to RC racing (i have driven the thing before for fun, not for sport). I was wondering, how do I start racing (not competitive yet, maybe just ideas for at home, there's a park nearby me), can I use this oollld RC10 in races (with friends), and general beginners stuff.

I'm 18 years old, and don't have TOO much cash to spend on this (there's some room for spending).

Any advice for a teenager with a wanting to get into rc racing who has an ancient RC10 (i love this thing, and couldn't imagine getting rid of it)?

Thanks.

Or, i'd also be interested in "restoring" this car to it's former glory. Any idea how to do this?

Also, it looks like I'd be the best de-assembling it (correct grammar?) and giving it a huge cleaning. I'm gonna order the manual from Associated, so I can see what I'm doing. And suggested way for acquiring replacing parts (certain sites, or something? or should I operate through AE for most of it?)

Thanks again.

[Rtsbasic]

moparhemifan, Could you post any pics of your car? They'd be helpful so we can identify what electronics you have, which may or may not be suitable for some fun racing. Not much really needs doing to AE's cars to make them race well, but bearings, titanium turnbuckles, cvds and some RPM arms/turnbuckle ends go a long way.

You could check out ebay, there's always lots of rc10 stuff on there when I look..

corman007: Thanks for your input, I was referring to chassis parts such as the upper wishbone brace, chassis itself, braces, battery lid/mounts etc in the RC10 conversion RPM made, could you point me towards any of these on ebay? I haven't had any luck finding them. I doubt I'll break much on the car, but 9 cells + brushless + me launching it off the most unusual looking ramps I can find normally results in a couple of broken parts now and then :)

[moparhemifan]

Yeah, I'll get some pix of the car for posting on Thursday (posted on Friday).

Also, if I restored the RC10 (the 1980s version), to what it came as, would it be able to win races?? Or, would I need a newer car to win stuff like that?

[Saito]

Alot about winning races deals with driver skill and practice. Associated re-kitted the RC10 sooo many times, I assume its possible to update it with new equipment. I remember the tranny being a particular stumbling block. The original RC10 tranny required ALOT of attention during assembly. It was no slam together Tamiya unit for sure. I remember Car Action acticles going into cleaning/deburring/polishing each tooth in the tranny with a Dremmel to get a smooth running piece. Then Associated gave us the Stealth tranny which ended all that hassle.

[MacGeek]

After just rebuilding my original RC-10 (well, not original - pretty well modified back in the day (86? graphite chassis, Andy's long front arms, etc), I gotta say I certainly remember going through sets of idler gears on the original trans. I remember rebuilding transmissions between heats! Longevity wasn't a strong point. If I weren't interested in keeping it stock, it'd be replaced by now.

That said, looking at the car, I wondered if it'd actually still be competitive. The thing (aside from the idler gears) was bulletproof. Fast too.

[Rtsbasic]

If you put an RC-10 in the hands of one of today's top drivers and told them to win races with it, I bet it'd happen. Maybe not quite as light, rigid, responsive or fast as today's cars, but not that far behind either. Although I've only driven the RPM RC-10T and not a genuinely original RC10.

[MacGeek]

Honestly, what's changed in the last 20 years WRT off-road, 2WD electric buggies? (seriously - I just don't know)

Hotter motor, better motor tech? Ok.

Less weight? Maybe.

Better batteries/ESC? Certainly. NiCd sucks.

We're probably talking a game of minutiae. True?

[Rtsbasic]

Todays 1:10 2WD electric buggies are lighter for sure. More rigid (graphite vs nylon or plastic composites), and more developed handling. More aerodynamic as well I guess (shell designs are a lot more curvy than the old boxy style). All of it may be a small difference, but it does slowly add up. Tyres these days are a lot softer than they used to be, that makes a big difference to traction.

The biggest change in my opinion is electronics - batteries are one of the biggest developments (espically with lipo on the horizon, and quite safe to use), a 12 turn modified motor from "back in the day" is probably about the same power output as a good 19 turn these days, and with brushless becoming more commonplace I'd say this department has advanced quite a bit as well (although my 12 year old Tekin ESC still runs almost as well as much more modern ESC's). Servo's haven't changed much in a long time, I ran an old Ko Propo PS-1001 until eariler this year which was essentially the same as they're current FET servo's.

[MacGeek]

From a chassis standpoint, mine still has the aftermarket graphite plate chassis from back in 86(?). I switched to trailing links and Andy's long arms in the front, but I suppose newer ones may be more rigid (not that I can exactly flex these all that much). Equal length arms is a neat idea. When I got out of the sport, small pin-spike tires were coming onto the scene and making a big difference.

Clearly electronics are the single biggest improvement. NiMH, brushless, not to mention much cheaper. When I was building my new Wild Willy 2, I thought "Futaba sells a pistol-grip radio WITH ESC for under $80??? My old Novak ESC cost more than that!" Granted, it won't handle low-turn motors, but jeez!

It also appears that nitro is "the thing" nowadays, given how many kids in the area are running them and how they seem to be the focus of the LHS. I'll admit, the speed is neat, but electric is so much simpler. Kooky kids... ;)

[Rtsbasic]

Kids are drawn to nitro, dunno why, everytime I take a nitro car out (no matter how rubbish/slow) I get a crowd of kids and chavs pop out of nowhere watching the car. I do the same thing with electric (even with my brushless setup and 8 cells) and no-one's interested. I love it, I'd rather mess around with just a mate or two than get asked "is it petrol?" and "can i have a go?" all the time :) Although the closest offroad track to me is mostly nitro.

Electronics can still be expensive. My new ESC and motor set me back $216 yesterday. But its some really nice brushless kit so that isn't too bad a price. You can get some really nice batteries (GP3300 cells) for $25 at radio shack now. Thats an amazing price for high quality batteries if you ask me.

[MacGeek]

It's the sound. Kids hear the weird sound and see a combustion powered R/C car and are surprised. Electric is commonplace - go to the local toy store and you can get an electric car. But nitro - it's different. Electric's great because you can go fast and it's clean. I will say that I'm intrigued by a nitro car, but I haven't the foggiest idea on how to maintain it, and being as meticulous as I am about that sort of thing, I've shied away. Not to mention my wife, who has been wonderfully tolerant of my renewed love in this hobby (all new to her) would kill me if I dropped some big bank on a "toy". ;)

Bringing it back on topic, "back in the day" you could get a belt-drive transmission for the RC-10. If I'm going to actually keep running this thing, I'd either like to get my hands on a new trans that I can use instead of the original one, or a spare original setup that I can hang onto for when I put the car back on the shelf. I don't want to modify the chassis to make it work however. Thoughts?

[CARBONrc10T]

anyone know if i can used a t2 chassis with all the rc10t stuff? i've got an entire truck minus tub chassis

[Rtsbasic]

The T2 chassis wouldn't work without some changes at the back I'm fairly certain. I believe the shock tower mounts are different?

[CARBONrc10T]

ok thanks i'm gonna just strightnen that chassis with a hammer and vise i guess... yes i broke an aluminum tub ......in the center lol....they don't like chevy trucks

[Rtsbasic]

Lol. I can top that. My RC10T almost blew up last night. My £160 brushless ESC fried and put out enough smoke to fill my road. Unfortunately some of the black gunk from inside it that exploded outwards through a hole has melted onto my RPM chassis and battery hold-down. And the whole car smells of burnt electronics :( Glad it didn't melt through the battery strap and onto the battery..that would not have been funny at all if the battery popped.

[RCB3]

The T2 has a different tranny and rear shock tower and bulkhead.

[CARBONrc10T]

Anybody know if the battery brace from the worlds will fit on the regulart battery tray i want to switch to that style battery strap/holder something better than the plastic one.

[adam lancia]

it should

[CARBONrc10T]

it doesnt fit with the battery inside like newer ones but the bottom of the shock tower holds it in place not real pleased with that but it looks better than the plastic strap.

[hot pipe]

I have a rc10t2 chassie sitting here (tub) with the stealth 2.60 tranny..
witch i think is the same gearing as the rc10gt...correct! other then the trans case is diffrent between the two in genral... it's missing a few parts like the battary holder and fornt arms but other then that it's there ,and it's fixable..guess i could get it running :rolleyes: some day! well let me know what the dif...is between the 3 trucks thanks!

[JSSuper]

RC10 is the Original buggy. Obviously since the buggies come out first, the truck version is based on the buggy, hence RC10T. RC10B2/T2 B3/T3 ETC.

The RC10T debut in 1991. It ran the updated Stealth transmission with slipper clutch etc. The internal transmission ratio was 2.25:1. It was available in two forms, bushing or bearing equipped kits. They had 3 piece wheels and dogbone drive shafts.

In 1994 the RC10T recieved some needed updates. "Team Edition" debuted, with light weight one piece wheels, full bearings, pro-line Mini-Pin rear tires, Universal driveshafts (Not CVDs as in MIP CVDs) Graphite transmission brace, narrowed truck body, and Teflon coated "Team" shocks. There was a small change to the slipper clutch as well. To accompany this truck, they introduced the RC10ST or Sport Truck. It was basically what the older bushing kit was, but named ST.

In 1995 the RC10T was discontinued (RC10ST remained for some time longer). The RC10T2 made its debut. Basically an updated RC10T Team Truck, you still had bearings universals etc, but the transmission utilized the same diff gear as the Rc10GT. This netted you a 2.60:1 internal ratio making it easier to gear for modefied racing. Starting at the Chassis, it was still aluminum tub but narrowed more as it went forward. (Picture a T3 chassis in your head, but not composite). Gone was the Virgin nylon bulky white parts. Replaced by updated black arms and pieces that were more rounded, same stuff as RC10GT. Same teflon coated team shocks, universals and one piece wheels/pro-line tires in Team kit trim.

These trucks worked well, but with Losi pooring on the competition with new "Stiffezel" (Stiff as Hell) composite materials building their LXT, LXT w/ XX transmission and later the XX-T, Team Associated quickly jumped on board. Introducing the RC10T3 for 1997. Obviously Team Edition trims stayed on board, and later introduced the Factory Team models. This truck was completely re-designed. SImilar shaped chassis to T2, but in new composites. The suspension was completely re-hashed as well. New A-arm designs as well as other suspension components. The Stealth was updated again as well, this time with a larger clipper clutch assembly and newer 2.40:1 internal ratio. This truck was completely new, very few parts from previous trucks made it into the T3. It also introduced the MIP CVDs as factory equipment and in Factory Team form, utilized titanium turnbuckles, as well as full graphite composite parts. I nearly purchased one many times, but as the 90's changed into 2000's I decided to wait since a T4 was sure to be on the horizon. Long into 2002 I nearly built up a Team kit to race simply to update out of my 1994 RC10T Team (I still race it locally at the club level) I'm glad I waited, because it wasn't much longer than that and the T4 finally showed.

The T4 was a complete re-work as well. Its wider, sleeker, etc. Stealth again changed, but back to 2.60:1. (Can't they make up their minds :p) You can check AE's website for the details on this truck.

I still havn't updated yet as I am still competative in my area on the outdoor track (rougher non blue groove). Plus I like seeing the vintage machine whipping the XXX-T MFEs and MF2s even the occasional T4 falls victim out here. Put me on a blue groove and then I'm at a big disadvantage. But outdoor. dusty, rough tracks, the old designed RC10T & T2shines.

Anyhow, theres the whole history lesson for Today.... Tune-in tomorrow... :p

[microrcdude]

dang dude howlong did it take you to type that?

[JSSuper]

Lol, Not too long really.. I've worked in computers for a while and typing "case notes" all day tends to increase your speed. :eek:

Plus I like to be thorough!

[microrcdude]

heh well you did a good job.

[hot pipe]

well thanks for the info between the trucks...as i have a gt team trruck tub chassie upgraded to the new chassie....the t2 i still have ,and i,'m in the prosses of putting it back together... my bro found an indoor track localy and they race on thursday nights
(ele..only) os i guess it's time to get the old school back on the track...thanks agian for the info!

[5oh]

I dug my truck out the other day.
Vintage RC10-T gold shocks and all. :D

Is it possible to upgrade the motor? Any chance to make it as fast as a Traxxas rustler without breaking the bank? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this type of stuff so be gentle. :cool:

[adam lancia]

shouldn't be too hard. what speed control is in the truck now? the esc's (electronic speed control) motor limit will largely determine the maximum speed of your truck. also, what batteries do you have? a little more info about your equipment and budget will go a long way to being able to reccomend upgrades for you.

adam

[JSSuper]

I dug my truck out the other day.
Vintage RC10-T gold shocks and all. :D

Is it possible to upgrade the motor? Any chance to make it as fast as a Traxxas rustler without breaking the bank? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this type of stuff so be gentle. :cool:

Traxxas Rustler huh..... Its so ON! :p :D Though I agree with Adam, the ESC will play a huge role in determining how we can upgrade this truck.

The thing with the Rustler is that it comes RTR. Included in this is a 20 turn Stinger motor. It looks like a cheapy closed endbell stocker. It is cheapy, but its also 20T and this is the single reason your friend (I'm assuming your in a friendly competition here) has a faster truck. Your Associated is probably running a 27T Roar legal stock motor such as Green Machine/2/3, P2K/2, Reedy Rage or MVP, Trinity Monster, Orion Chrome stock etc. Now in tuned form I bet we could make one of those stockers run as fast as that 20t, but for a friendly rivalry a motor upgrade is definitely in the cards here IMO.

Its bang for the buck with little muss or fuss. Providing we have a ESC hot enough, I'd probably go to a 17T. Maybe a 16T motor but you don't want to get crazy with winds. You could drop a hot Team Checkpoint or Reedy mod in it, but those lower winds you'll be wearing it really fast. Granted you'll be flying, but not for very long without proper maintenance etc. HOT modefieds tend to wear quickly and thus its a lot of money to keep a motor in a play truck.

Drop a good dual bearing motor in it, gear the truck properly and burn him off. :cool:

Couple of good choices for your application:
Reedy Flash 17x2:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJZN4&P=7

Associated Power 17T: This motor comes in the new Associated RTR's, but I don't think its dual bearing, I think its going to be bushing. It does have a good price and being 17T it will still be faster than your friends closed bell 20T.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGKC7&P=7

Epic Intense 16x2: Good price on this P-94 mod
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJNG5&P=7

Trinity Speedgem Extreme 17x2:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGX1&P=7

There are other brands and options as well such as Orion Raven, its cheaper too, but has a V2 endbell. As a racer, I'm not a big fan of the V2 endbells, but thats a personal thing. Your LHS may have something for you as well.

Remember, DO NOT just drop a hotter motor in it on my say so. We really need to know what ESC you are running before you go more motor or you will end up with a smoked ESC!

Also, you will need to re-gear your truck accordingly. Then go and walk all over Rustler boy... ;) Now where is that Rustler forum, I'm going to tell him how to go faster too. :p I tease

[5oh]

Traxxas Rustler huh..... Its so ON! :p :D Though I agree with Adam, the ESC will play a huge role in determining how we can upgrade this truck.



Couple of good choices for your application:
Reedy Flash 17x2:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJZN4&P=7

Associated Power 17T: This motor comes in the new Associated RTR's, but I don't think its dual bearing, I think its going to be bushing. It does have a good price and being 17T it will still be faster than your friends closed bell 20T.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGKC7&P=7



I went with this motor. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBH5&P=7). Mainly because I was afraid of destroying the speed control. I'm hoping the stocker can stand up to the 19T. I was afraid the jump from a 27 to a 17 would be to much. As far as speed control, it's the stock ESC. :D I'm sure it won't last long, but since it has lasted 14 years, its about time to get a new one anyway. :D

Budget is as little as possible of course, hence the 14 year old truck. :o

What speed control should I use?

What about gearing? I plan on running a 20 on the pinion. To much to little?

[adam lancia]

that's a really good motor choice! i've got 2 of those and they last quite a while between rebuilds plus they produce a good amount of power to boot. when you say the stock esc, do you mean the resister with a wiper? if so, don't dump too much voltage through it (ie. don't use hi-po 3800 racing packs!). if you want to stay on a budget, look for a used novak cyclone or an lrp v6 or v7.1, they're both great esc's with no motor limits. in fact, there's a cyclone for sale in the for sale/trade thread for a good price. a 20 tooth might be a little to large but try it out anyways. best way to check if the motor's overgeared is after a full pack, hold the truck off the ground by the motor...if you can't do this for 3 or 4 seconds, it's overgeared. 19 or 18 might be a better choice though.

adam

[JSSuper]

I concur with Adam here, I don't recall the RC10T being available with an ESC from the factory, but the earlier kits and later RC10ST came with the "wiper arm" MSC (Mechanical speed control). I utilize an old Cyclone myself in my TC at this time, I've had that in everythingit seems like, Mod and stock buggy, Mod&stock truck, Pro-stock 19t& now mod touring car. Thats a great ESC. However, I'm really thinking hard about picking up a GTS for stock and 19t class racing with my truck and or maybe a RC10B4 FT.... Havn't really decided yet.

Speaking of wich, I will be racing my RC10T this weekend locally here. It will be my first time on a blue groove track. My truck still works fine for outdoor rough tracks, but on a blue groove against T4 FT, and MF2 trucks.... I'm not so sure. It will be interesting to see to say the least :eek: .

I have a few of the Reedys. It seems like its the motor of choice for 19T class stuff especially off-road. However, I havn't ran one yet in my 10T, but I have been going over how I want to set my initial gearing. I did a lookup of the recommended starting point for a 19T motor in a T4. The pinion was 19 and final drive of 11.91:1. IMO, the Reedy quad mag is a lot more like a stock motor in that it produces a lot of torque. Stockish gearing seems to work well in the TC's, but I don't know yet what it will be like in this truck.

I plan to start with a 17/87 or final drive of 11.51:1. If I need to change I'll be able to do that too between the 87 and 90t spurs. I have a feeling with this torque monster, I'll end up at a 18/90 and possibly even the 18/87. I'll know more after Saturday. Should be fun, every time I race it at a new area I get laughed at until the first heat. :D Then I get the questions, even protested on occasion. That is always outdoor though, there may be constant laughing now on this indoor stuff... we'll see, but it will still be fun. :cool:

[adam lancia]

that gearing sounds about right. i'll see about digging up some of my old setup sheets from when i raced my rc10t. i'm running an MIP 2.65:1 transmission in my 10t and it made it a ton easier to gear without going to really tiny pinions or huge spurs. i do recall using some pretty heavy shock oil, say 45-50wt when guys running t3's and xxt's were running around 30-35wt. silver springs also worked well. on the rear bulkhead, there's one hole much further inboard of the rest of the camber link holes and i used this exclusively when racing. i also stiffened the chassis with an old school MIP chassis stiffening kit (the carbon fiber that runs from the battery box forward to the nose tubes). this really stiffened things up and made the truck much more responsive. have fun!

adam

[JSSuper]

Adam, out of curiosity.. I know of the RPM 2.65:1 conversion
Here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV49&P=7

I didn't know of the MIP one. Did it have a light weight top gear assembly or was it steel like the original. I installed a titanium top gear in my stealth in an effort to lower the rotating mass. However, I've been giving this transmission conversion a lot of thought lately. Even if it has a heavier top shaft, I think it will still be worth a look.

[adam lancia]

the MIP conversion isn't available anymore. it uses the standard associated top shaft but a larger idler gear and a diff gear that is the same size as the rc10gt/b4/t4. the rpm conversion serves the same purpose but i think it uses a smaller top shaft gear, not sure though. the gear box change made a huge difference in keeping the motors from burning up, worth the cash for sure.

adam

[philp37]

Kudos to all you enthusiasts who keep this thread so active. I would venture to say, that the RC10/10T is right there with the T-Maxx as the most important RC vehicles of our time. IMHP Even Tamiya 01 on road, and the grasshopper don't measure up to the importance of offroad historic giants such as the RC10 and RC10T.

I hope to score one for my stable some time.

[hot pipe]

anyone have any opinoins on the novak brushless motor/esc...
i'm thinking of getting ether one of these setup's,but leaning more twards the one for the e-max..
novak hv-max brushlessmotor system $269.99(brushless only)6-14 cell battary limit.
or this one:
novak GTB (esc) brushless/brushed motors...169.99 ,and novaks velocity 4.5r brushless motor (no limit)4-6 cell battary limit.

it for local club racing in my rc10t2...unlimited class indoor short/meduim track...any info please!!! they are running 10turn single/double brush motor's 7-8 cell packs...(most of them)some are running hotter setups... thank in advanced!!!

[5oh]

One more question.

Do I need to move the capacitors from the old motor to the new motor?

[JSSuper]

5oh, the Reedy Quad Mag has capacitors with it. You will need to solder them though... If you are using the Futaba MC210CB ESC. Or better known as the "Black Brick" I don't think it will handle a 19t motor. I think its limited to stockers. I burned mine up with a 17T back in the day. That esc is the one with the 30amp automotive fuse. It was included with the Magnum Junior radio, if you opted for it. Still have and use the radio in my RC10T, for nostalgia and sentimental factors :cool: . Though as I said the ESC bit the dust years ago.

Hot pipe, IMO go the GTB route. I plan to do that for Mod truck this summer season myself. GTB and a 5.5 for me. I don't know if you could gear the 4.5 low enough in a 10T. You are better off with a T2's 2.60:1 internal ratio.
I'll be installing the 2.65:1 conversion for my 10T this year.

[5oh]

5oh, the Reedy Quad Mag has capacitors with it. You will need to solder them though... If you are using the Futaba MC210CB ESC. Or better known as the "Black Brick" I don't think it will handle a 19t motor. I think its limited to stockers. I burned mine up with a 17T back in the day. That esc is the one with the 30amp automotive fuse. It was included with the Magnum Junior radio, if you opted for it. Still have and use the radio in my RC10T, for nostalgia and sentimental factors :cool: . Though as I said the ESC bit the dust years ago.

Hot pipe, IMO go the GTB route. I plan to do that for Mod truck this summer season myself. GTB and a 5.5 for me. I don't know if you could gear the 4.5 low enough in a 10T. You are better off with a T2's 2.60:1 internal ratio.
I'll be installing the 2.65:1 conversion for my 10T this year.That is the controller I have. Thanks for the information. I'll use it untill it catches fire.

[hot pipe]

thanks jssuper! going to go with the GTB w/5.5..these guy's are crazy at the track...they have this double that is 4 feet high each jump..lot of chassies going to the garbage.lol!By the way! do you have any idea with what brushless motor the 5.5 compares to??? these guy's are running 10 turn singles/doubles...Not sure if it matter's
they are running on a small to medium track. the long strat away is about 30 feet..(guessing)..

[JSSuper]

thanks jssuper! going to go with the GTB w/5.5..these guy's are crazy at the track...they have this double that is 4 feet high each jump..lot of chassies going to the garbage.lol!By the way! do you have any idea with what brushless motor the 5.5 compares to??? these guy's are running 10 turn singles/doubles...Not sure if it matter's
they are running on a small to medium track. the long strat away is about 30 feet..(guessing)..

Yah, 30ft main strait makes for a really tight track. Thats a tight track for a 1/18 scale. Anyway I'm sure its a good size if you are successfully running 1/10 stadium trucks.

If you guys have some good jumps, make sure your nose brace rods are good and tight. Use thread lock at the rear mount point as well. Its hard to say what brushed mod a brushless mod compares too, but a 5.5 should be pretty comparable to the 10 turn or even less... possibly a 9t but it should be plenty of power. Gear it apropriately and you shouldn't have any trouble.

Utilize the gearing recommendations in the GTB/5.5 instructions for a T4. Figure out the final drive ratio for the T4 using www.gearchart.com. Then using a T4 as a guide, alter the internal ratio setting from 2.6 to 2.25. Then you can play around with Pinions and spur combo's to acheive the final drive you need in the T. Thats how I do it when I'm looking for a starting point for a new motor, be it 19t, 10t or brushless. The starting point is just that however, since you may need to gear down or up depending on the track design/condition. To run hotter motors I've had to utilize a 90t spur frequently. Even with stock I've used a 90t from time to time to get the final drive I'm after.

Good luck and let the T fly! :D

[discgolfer72]

well just signed up here and saw this thread thought id say wats up and rc10t is the best st made to date i would like to se any new car take a full speed hit into a brick wall and come out un harmed(im running a 9t speed gems motor to )

[minijosh]

Look what I found.

[minijosh]

This car comes with some odd stuff that I've never seen. There is a hop up from Team Losi. It's the steering bell crank set. Kind of funny they made stuff for AE.

[minijosh]

Only 1 more photo to upload after this one. The esc is a old skool Novak. I wonder if it will still work?

[minijosh]

The 3rd photo has the Losi part. The motor is an AE Stock motor. Kind of funny looking.

[StevePond]

Nice old car. In keeping with the RC10"T" theme of the thread, I have an original RC10T with the skinny tires (much more rare) and it was shipped to Japan so there's Japanese writing all over the box. Probably the most rare RC10T on the planet. I also have two others in various stages of assembly. I covered the Florida Winter Nats electric off-road race for the magazine when this truck made its racing debut with Cliff Lett running the "Team Moo" colors. That was a lot of fun. ;)

[minijosh]

Whoops I just saw the rc10 part, I missed the T. Sorry guys. Can you move my photos to the rc10 area please?

[Rtsbasic]

If anyones interested, I'm selling an RC10T with an RPM conversion kit (chassis, gearbox, steering, battery mount, bulkheads, wishbones, etc). Its on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6039674065&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[alabamarcguy]

got an old rc10t problem is cant find wheels to fit the rear i have the axles have a swell toward the inside preventing t3 type wheels to fit can i just convert these axles to more up to date one?thx for any info

[adam lancia]

you can replace the original axles with T3 axles so they will fit T3 wheels.

[vdubdoug]

Well I have been out of the hobby for a long time. And I am looking to get back into it. I dont want to spend a ton of dollars to start with so should I buy an RC10t or go for a newer truck? I woudl like to buy 2 trucks so I can have some spare parts, and an extra truck so friends can race when I build a track in my Backyard.

Thanks for helping me get back into this

[adam lancia]

if you're not racing competitively, the 10T is a great truck to start with. it's basically bomb-proof and associated still makes most parts for it. bang for the buck, that's your best bet to start off. if you decide to go racing and get a little competitive, then step up to a T4, you'll be happy you did.

[alabamarcguy]

well i just placed an order for the blue rpm arms blue bumper and new body mount kit got the rear axles swapped over to accept newer wheels the only thing i cant find are the shock towers does the t2 towers fit the t? thx for any info

[discgolfer72]

the orignal shock tower is still available u just gotta look if u cant find go to rc10.com and order from there
and no other towers will fit with out modfiying it but i do know u can use a sportwerks meyhem st alum shock tower will work with only a little mod u gotta make the mounting holes a little bigger
i use one on my orignal rc10

their are pics and vids here if u like old rc
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3941931/anchors_3941931/mpage_1/key_discgolfer72/anchor/tm.htm#3941931

[james22n]

I would like to try something different, and possibly cheaper than the mamba for a rc18t. So far i came up with this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSY4&P=ML and this motor http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLVJ4 Will this set up get me to 35-40 mph?

[Chewbacca]

I would like to try something different, and possibly cheaper than the mamba for a rc18t. So far i came up with this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSY4&P=ML and this motor http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLVJ4 Will this set up get me to 35-40 mph?


The Motor MIGHT work, the ESC is made for planes, will give you problems...

[Chewbacca]

Does anybody here know, if the GT tranny is a direct fit to the Stealth Tub chassis?

Thanx, Chewie.

[Gorphus22]

I bought this car second hand 10+ years ago from a friend of mine who had it for several years. He said that it was a TQ10, at the time with the internet being a baby, I couldn't verify that. My brother and I ran it around for a year or two, and then it got packed up in a box and has been moving around with me. I pulled it out a few weeks ago and decided to see if it still worked. The radio had been broken in one of my many moves, so I brought the car with me and bought a new radio. No one at the hobby store could identify it. The only thing they said was that it looked like an old Tamiya. So I posted some pics on the tamiyaclub.com forum, and was told that it was an RC10 with a graphite chassis. I have searched for the TQ10 and not found a whole lot on it. What are the differences between the two, and which do I have? The body isn't complete, it was also broken in a move.

For more and larger pics, click here (http://www.gorphus.com/rccar.html).


Thanks


http://www.gorphus.com/images/post_dscn0132.JPG

[Chewbacca]

Thats an old RC10 with the fairly rare graphite chassis, and the older (and crappy IMO) 6-gear tranny.

Post should go in the Original RC10 thread, not RC10T...

Chewie.

[23Modified]

HEY all I just got one of these trucks. They sound really fun!!! Is there anyway I can update anything.. like putting t3 or t4 arms on it any help will be welcomed and what kind of rims do you guys run?? This is also going to be my first off-road truck, so any help will be greatly smiled upon...

[acerpower]

i just dragged out my old 10t from my parrent's basement.i bought it brand new back in 92 and never compleated assembly.
i was going to try an get it running a few years back,but the guys at the LHS laughed at the aluminum tub chassis, and told me it was old and slow and i couldnt get parts if i broke anything. so i was discouraged and back in the basement it went.
i recently found that i could still get parts, so i decided to revive my project.
i went and dyed all the parts black, and the wheels and bumper blue.
i took it all apart cleaned and re-assembled everthing.
i just need a pinion for my stock motor, and to rebuild the shocks.also need new esc.
maybe i'll finally get to run it after 15 years.

[acerpower]

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f348/acerpower/PICT0127.jpg
sorry about the lame paint job.

[acerpower]

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f348/acerpower/PICT0128.jpg

[big10]

:wave: First I'd like to say hi. Im new here and this is my first post. I recently got the urge to rebuild 10T's. I currently have 7 in the works plus my original personal "T". 6 of them are rollers, 2 are complete. The only hold up to finishing them is locating bodies for them. I have built all of these trucks off of ebay. 90% of the parts are if fairly good shape and some are even better than my personal stuff. I hope to complete these trucks and sell them. I am also working on 3 gold pan RC10's 2 with stealth and 1 with the 6 gear tranny and a RC10L which is finally complete minus paint. These trucks are much more durable than the new trucks. I dont even know how I broke the front arm on my new GT2. I look forward to being a part of this forum.

[acerpower]

if your in to rc10 and 10t you should check out rc10talk.com. this thread has been real slow.

[big10]

For anyone that is curious, the RC10T4 body will fit the RC10T with a little mod to the body mounts. The Pro Line body for the T4 looks the best of the available T4 bodies. I found that the Duratrax adjustable body mounts worked best for this mod. You can actually re use the front body mounts for the rear mounts by attaching them to the inner holes on the transmission brace. The Duratrax body mounts are mounted over the steering arms. Just screw a 2 inch mount on the right side and a 2.5 inch on the left. You must remove the nylon nuts that are currently fastening the steering to the chassis. It is a very clean fit.

[everlast]

Hi folks.

I´m restoring my RC10T Team Truck right now, but dont have a picture of the colours and paintscheme of what the truck looked like back then. Would any of you have a pic for me, so I can duplicate the design? Even a photo of the original box will help. Thanks for your help.

Frank

[keebler]

I have had this one for 4 years,not sure if it's original or not?:D...someone can tell me if it is? ...
http://www.photoworks.com/servlet/GetThumb;jsessionid=329C1EAB0C2C04E1C3D49254BE4F83 20?490692657,300x400,0,0,null&cb=PW&toh=&svr=web40
http://www.photoworks.com/servlet/GetThumb;jsessionid=03A99E7688CDBA8D2B8DE63C7AF359 3A?490692670,300x400,0,0,null&cb=PW&toh=&svr=web17

[adam lancia]

keebler, your pics didn't work...:(

[everlast]

The upper one works. Its the original body, but the paint is custom, not original. Thx anyhow...

FJ

[keebler]

OK your welcome..wasn't sure about it...pics worked for me at first,now they don't...


http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80042&stc=1&d=1209985677

http://www.photoworks.com/servlet/GetThumb;jsessionid=329C1EAB0C2C04E1C3D49254BE4F83 20?490692657,300x400,0,0,null&cb=PW&toh=&svr=web40

http://www.photoworks.com/servlet/GetThumb;jsessionid=03A99E7688CDBA8D2B8DE63C7AF359 3A?490692670,300x400,0,0,null&cb=PW&toh=&svr=web17

[lil_general_lee]

Here's one of my RC10T's... The black tranny case has been switched out with a white case (old photo). It also has a set of mint skinny front tires to go along with it. The truck isn't perfect but it's about as close as you can get without finding new old stock.

[raptorridr660r]

Hello guys, I got an old rc10t in a trade and I was wondering what the stock gearing was with the kit? mine has a 81t spur and 18t on the motor. motor is a green can, I believe a Trinity Jade 15 turn.... Tried to run the truck today and motor gets up to 170+ degrees in a couple minutes so I stopped running it.

[spencercam1]

I cannibalized & mutated mine.
1. Novak ss 5800 brushless motor system
2. MaxAmps 7.2v 5000mah battery
3. Proline Fifty's Chevy truck
4. Dollar store LED book lights for headlamps

[HandyRacing]

This truck ran at the Washtenaw RC Raceway last winter, won quite a few races as I recall:

http://x2c.xanga.com/4c8f604b05635256828755/m204327782.jpg

More of last years stadium trucks are here (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=115083&id=692263345&l=476b1b7f30)

www.HandyRacing.com

http://Blog.HandyRacing.com

[Tawcoma26]

Heres a few pictures of my RC10T... given to me from a friend. Dont know much about it but here it is.