Original RC10T Forum

[adam lancia]

does anyone out there have one of these?? do you still race it?? i'm thinking of resurecting mine with a new rpm tranny and running it in the stock class. anyone else out there with one of these (almost) classics?? drop in sometime,

adam

[Possumbot]

I've got a beater 10T, I bought it from my bro, and haven't fixed it up yet. Im gonna do it now, considering my t3 sux. I was gonna make it a fan car, but im gonna restore it probably. What rpm tranny? got any info on it? The transmission is a oval transmission, and blown to boot.

[Dr.Bad]

I got two RC10T's and I'm running both of them. One of them I just recently finished with Pro-Line Masher2000 tires and suspension lift/rebuild, and the other is fully equipped for stock truck racing. They both go good, and can take more of a beating than my B3 Full Graphite. Just watch the noseplate that the bumper connects to, I've had two of them bend over the years and snap the bumper right off at the bulkhead. Hold on to those trucks, they can be modified to your hearts content! Right now my first truck is being turned into what I like to call "Project Jump Truck". I'll be making custom suspension peices out of aluminum, and hopefully making a dual-motor motor mount for some extra power(easier than you think!). The other is a stadium racer that isn't as picky as a new machine. Throw any set of decent tires on it, and as long as you learn to drive it how it likes, you should be able to keep up with people who always buy the newest thing out there!

[adam lancia]

Possumbot,

the tranny is an RPM model with a 2.65:1 ratio. better suited to the bigger truck tires than the original 2.19:1 tranny. you can get them really cheap at stormer hobbies for $10. a great deal, and any other parts you need to finish building the tranny come with you're original stealth. it's a pretty sweet deal. give it a try,

adam

[Possumbot]

i don't have the original stealth tranny, I need a total tranny, and some other misc. stuff just to get it 2 run.

[adam lancia]

possumbot,

grab the RPM tranny and an associated top shaft. probably some bearings for the tranny too. i think you also need the older style diff halves, rings, thrust bearing, thrust bearing screw and diff nut and a complete slipper set up. that's all i can think of. hope this helps,

adam

[adam lancia]

does anyone know/remember if there was ever a graphite chassis conversion kit for the 10T?? would the team car chassis fit or is it too short?? thanks guys,

adam

[TheHurricane]

Yes they did have the graphite version,
I have the RC10T Graphite version.
I still run it, But i did upgrade to the new stealth tranny.
My truck was clocked by my cop buddy at 48mph and I will
Probably keep it for many years.

[2MCHPWR]

i haven't raced my rc10T yet, but i plan on doing it this year.
here are some pics:
http://207.127.219.37/rc10.htm

[2MCHPWR]

i haven't raced my rc10T yet, but i plan on doing it this year.
here are some pics:
http://207.127.219.37/rc10.htm

[dreamer_1uk]

Hi,

I have a stupid question what i want to ask!

Can you put a Stealth Transmition from a RC10T2 onto an old RC10 Team Edition car with out any modifications? I have the RC10 with the old transmition and i dont know where to get a stealth one form.

Thanks in advance all!

Dale

[TheHurricane]

Yes you can, but you will need mounting hold template par no. 6590.
with that part will beable to mount the new version stealth tranny into place.

[dm76]

I have one that is in good condition, I started to take it apart to clean the parts and restore it into factory stock condition, but other projects got in the way. I will finish my classic one of these days!!!

[4W Drifter]

Hey Dreamer, if this helps you can do a direct swap from a 10T to an RC10. I did this with my gold chassis RC10 for a while so I could see it run again.
I need some help finding the original transmission parts for the external diff on my RC10 for the nostalgic look. Did it have an inner and outer shaft on the top shaft? If you come across any info, holler back!
I have two 10Ts and they are both spectacular. I jump over myself while standing up regularly and have never broken anything on a landing. At one point I decided to try an updated vehicle when the B2 came out but I kept breaking parts on slightly off landings. I've had my T's do backflips and land on the shocktowers, jump and hit tree trunks, and other wacky crashes and not break anything. I stand by my belief that the 10T is the best truck AE has ever offered. I have 6 cars now with nothing being new than 5 years. The only exception is an RS4 Rally that I got just for fun time on our dirt road. Of all six cars, nothin is run more than the 2 T's. Hopefully when I find those RC10 parts It'll be runnin right along with my 10T's! :D

[Keyz28]

Let's get this thread going! I have a 10t I race in stock class. I will jump anything, if the ball cups stay on it will make it. These are the toughest things made. Mine has rpm arms, t3 factory team shocks and slipper as well. I race a T2 in mod class, last week was my first race with it and what can I say, 2nd in the A main. The T2 is a little better handling than the T and I don't know why but it is. I have 2 more T2s and I'm thinking of putting b3 arms on one and making a buggy just to see how it handles. Might have to park the b3..

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by adam lancia
does anyone know/remember if there was ever a graphite chassis conversion kit for the 10T??

Actually I've got one in the drawer I plan to off on eBay soon.

[rocknbil]

Let me say . . .

THIS ROCKS!

It's so kewl to find pple that see the value of the ORIGINAL 10T. :)

I have two tricked-out original 10T's and I always hear crap like "vintage racing" and "that old tank" but they sure do quiet down when they cross the finish line staring down the tail of these old puppies.

I've had Losi XXT's, T2's, and T3's and none of them handle the way my 10T's do, I always come back to them. I won't bore you with the specifics of all the hop-ups. but the one achilles heel the 10T has is chassis flex - if you grab the front and back of the chassis you can twist it very easily, which equates to unpredicatable handling and skittisshness in corners. The pic below (lousy pic, SORRY!) shows the graphite chassis stiffener system I implemented that totally elimiinates the chassis flex, and the handling improved 100%. All it is is a couple of graphite strips that go from the shock tower to where the nose tubes bolt to the chassis and a piece of copper tube (covered with shrinkwrap for cosmetics) between the two graphite strips just behind the servo to prevent them from bending inward. It's solid as a rock.

10T's Rool. :D

[CorB]

Fun truck and much more durable than many of todays trucks,

I got 1 for sale, if any one is interested...

http://corb.bravepages.com/RC.htm :eek:

[smoothrider4x4]

I have had one for many years. It is my favorite vehicle to run. It has an ESC Novak super rooster, ball bearings, original stealth tranny etc. It can do amazing jumps and take a lot of abuse and keep on running. The only thing that has been replaced is the spur gear, rear body mount, front body mount and updated rear tires.

[adam lancia]

my 10T has the MIP 2.65:1 transmission, updated black suspension arms front and rear, a graphite rear shock tower and transmission brace, team shocks all around and shiny cvd's. i know what you mean about the flex rocknbil, i use titanium turnbuckles to brace the shock towers to the chassis front and rear. this has made a huge improvement in the stiffness of the chassis as well as the consistency of how it handles. by far my most durable vehicle, the arms haven't been replaced since i got them.....6 years ago!!!!!!!!!! this thing is awesome!! AE's strongest vehicle ever,

adam

[rocknbil]

The other bad thing on the 10T's are those nose tubes, although they work fine with a little bend in them I can't sleep at night unless they can roll on a piece of glass without wobble . . .

Last weekend I took BOTH my 10T's and completely stripped them down - even trannies - removed ALL metal parts. A quick run to the store for some concentrated black liquid RIT dye. Dyed EVERYTHING black - all white nylon parts and fiberglas parts. I was really surprised at how well the original fiberglas shock towers took the dye, it took about 20-30 mins in simmer for it to take, but took it well. The only thing left that's white is the steering servo parts for dramatic effect. :D

Ball ends, bulkheads, steering parts, everything white went in the dye. Replaced all the bent hinge pins, polished the turnbuckles . . . all like new.

These things look NEW now. For whatever reason the dye perfectly stained the aged yellow of the white nylon parts, it looks AWESOME! Will try to post a pic tomorrow . . .

[rocknbil]

Here are my 10T's, worlds chassis and loaded with hop-ups. I made the pic small because these forums are already overloaded with huge pics, see enlargements and more pics at:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[surfer]

i need some help, i want to make my 10 t into a monster, what are some ideas of what could i use to it to mke it have a lot of ground clearence, thinking of finding a way of putting maxx wheels and tires on it...
anyone have some ideas?

[rocknbil]

Why would you want to do such a thing? :)

Doesn't matter, kidding you, but you might look at this month's RCCA nitro, there's an article on AE's new MT that might give you ideas (I only skimmed it, might not be anything that will help.) You should be able to get adapters that will fit the Tmaxx wheels on your hubs. The wheels themselves should change the ground clearance.

With the bigger tires remember to put a tiny pinion and a huge spur on or you'll wear out your motor very quickly.

[E-99-er]

here's a pic of mine http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=746101

[adam lancia]

hey guys,

does anyone race their 10T? i've been racing mine in the stock calss and was looking for some setup advice. it's a short techinical track, blue groove. it's got tons of pothole ruts and a couple jumps. right now i run #3 pistons with 30wt all around, no limiters in the rear and 1 thick and 1 thin limiter in the front. m3 fuzzies out back with m2 blades up front. any help would be great, thanks.

adam

[stocker]

my 'ol T2 has the alum. tub. can i upgrade to say, grafite or composite?

[stocker]

i'd like to keep my T2 suspension components and tranny, just mount them to a lighter chassis. can i use the T3 chassis? thanks in advance...

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by adam lancia
hey guys,

does anyone race their 10T? .......

Adam your setup sounds good but checkout the post I made on the chassis stiffener, that makes a big difference. If you're experiencing any difficulty with the potholes (like it bounces off where you don't expect it to) lighten the oil in the front ONLY to allow the susp. to react faster. This of course has to be balanced with handling on other parts of the track. The question is what areas is it having trouble in, if any?

stocker i'd like to keep my T2 suspension components and tranny, just mount them to a lighter chassis. can i use the T3 chassis? thanks in advance...

Don't know. Lightening the overall truck is not going to make as much difference in speed and handling as you would think, I once ruined an old aluminum chassis by drilling it holes in it (and every part I could find!) Although I did manage to go from 4.25 lbs to just over 3.75, I still lost races until I learned to drive! :D

[adam lancia]

rockinbil: guess what i happened upon at my LHS?? do you remember the A&L graphite chassis stiffner for the rc10/T? they had one new in the package with the instructions!!! i couldn't believe my luck. i installed it along with lunsford turnbuckles going from the shock towers to the chassis sides (ballcups on each end with ball studs through the towers and the chassis sides) and the thing is rock solid!! as for the set up, it's not bouncing around through the pot holes, i was just wondering if there was a sweetspot for setting it up. hoping for a magical speed secret to fall out of the sky i guess. thanks,

adam

[rocknbil]

Post a pic of that stiffener, I'd like to see it!

No matter what you do to your suspension there's always a trade-off: lighter, more reactive suspension for bumpy tracks is going to create bottoming out and more "roll" in corners, and vice versa. I usually adjust my suspension for problem areas: for example, if I'm getting corner spin-out, is it because the track is hard and I'm skidding or because it's loamy and I can't get soft surface traction? if it's skidding I would tend to soften the rear springs and go down one step in oil, if it's because of a soft corner I'd just change to bigger step pins. Then see if it works. :)

(here we go, now we'll hear how that's not the thing to do for those conditions . . . LOL . . bring it on . . . )

That's why I asked where it's having trouble, approach your suspension changes based on the problem.

[adam lancia]

thanks rockinbil. i'll try to get a digital camera and take some pictures of the chassis brace. it's really trick and simple at the same time.

adam

[microrcdude]

adam, if your track has a lot of jumps, put an o-ring on your shock shafts. I did this and i havent damaged my shocks yet!:D

[Keyz28]

I just converted my 10T-T2-T3 hybrid to mid engine. Very happy with the results so far. You have to go to saddle packs but that's all. I'll try and get some pics up.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Keyz28
.....10T-T2-T3.....to mid engine.

By all means do, this we gotta see! Adam, where's the pic of that brace? :)

[adam lancia]

my roommate just got his camera back from the repair shop so hopefully in the next few days i'll have a couple of pics up.

Keyz: is this the a&l mid motor conversion you're talking about?? i remember those, they were awesome!!! looked totally trick.

adam

[Keyz28]

No it's all the stock parts with very little mods. I had to make a trans brace and that's it. I welded up the orig trans mounting holes and redrilled em and flipped the bulk/shocktower trans and all backwards. Then split the trans and turn the topshaft around so the motor still turns right. Then you have to cut the motor plate so you can flip it. Trim the chassis where it attaches to the bulk in the rear to clear the pinion and endbell. The the only piece to make is a brace from the front of the trans to the middle of the chassis. Mine is stiffer than factory. You also have to use a GT style body now to clear the shocktower. I'll get some pics and try and figure out how to post em.

[q45guy]

Well uppon reading this thread I pulled my old RC10T out of storage, charged up the batteries and took it for a few test runs. Wow...I had forgotten how slow the stock motors were! Are there any modern aftermarket motors that would turn this ho-hum off-roader into a screamer? Also, what batteries would you recommend?Right now the only 2 batteries have have are a pair of Duratrax Sanyo 6-cell 7.2 Volt 1500's.

[Keyz28]

I run a p2k2 pro with bearings and 2400-3000 batts and it would pick the front up in the yard before I went mid engine.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by q45guy
.....pulled my old RC10T out of storage......I had forgotten how slow the stock motors were!

If your batteries also were in storage, it's going to take a few charges/discharges to kick them back to life. Motors haven't changed a whole lot, except that now you can dissasemble most stocks.

Long live the 10T. :)

[trxstr1961]

If anyone on here wants a project, im selling/trading a rc10t/ds/b i started on, but never finished!

trx1@yahoo.com

[Keyz28]

Send me some pics trxstr, Keyz28@showme.net

[adam lancia]

rockinbil: i FINALLY took some pictures of my 10T with the chassis braces, i'm just waiting for my friend to crop and email them to me. as soon as i get them, i'll post them. sorry to keep you waiting, school has been busy,

adam

[rocknbil]

LOL Aren't we all, it only gets worse as you get older!

[adam lancia]

yeah, but exams are no longer part of your life after school is done. i can't wait for that day! no more pencils, no more books, no more teachers dirty looks!! LOL

adam

[crazy1]

What body can you use for the rc10t?

[pudder]

What the hell! I may as well join in...

I don't have the truck, I do have an original buggy though!

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02260.JPG

[rocknbil]

HEY get that Canadian buggy outta here!! LOL

"When pudder's buggy grows up, it wants to be a 10T-cam" :D


JK Pudder, all AE's rool. :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by crazy1
What body can you use for the rc10t?

Crazy almost any 1/10 stadium truck body will fit the 10T, just make sure the rear shock towers land in the right place. If it says it fits any of the AE T-series, you should be fine.

[adam lancia]

hey guys,

how do i make my pics smaller so i can post them?? they're at 644KB right now.....what program do i use to make them smaller?
thanks,

adam

[pudder]

There are several programs you can use to edit photos. One that you will have is Paint, which should be in the Accessories folder of your start menue. You may select "stretch/skew" and shrink it by %, or do it by pixels. Try fooling and tooling around with things.

[adam lancia]

thanks pudder, i'll give it a try.

adam

[RC10's]

I have a RC10 buggy and T1, the buggy is missing some steering parts but someday I will bring it back... The t1 runs strong and i love it. They are great trucks and i love them.

[sledgeU812]

the guy who owns one of the lhs's has a 10T, it is awesome. he runs it in mod electric and the only thing i know about it is that it has a banzai mod in it, a big motor heatsink that looks like the one on my blue eagle so i think its a trinity, and it has a futaba 2PC sport radio. up until last season, he got 1st place in points for like 4 yrs. straight. back about a year ago when i was in the market for a race truck, i was gonna buy a 10T from the lhs. it had a novak explorer 2 esc, a trinity GM3 pro motor, JR python radio, and tower hobies TS-53 servo. the only hop ups it had were a pro-line chevy silverado body, pro line edge and fuzzie t tires, and full duratrax ball bearings. the only reason i didnt get it was because it had a homemade chassis that was really ghetto and i didnt like it, like for instance the battery was held down by velcro, it seemed a little too crappy for me.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by sledgeU812
.....he got 1st place in points for like 4 yrs. straight. .....like for instance the battery was held down by velcro, it seemed a little too crappy for me.

I bet that pi***ed off a lot of Losi drivers LOL!!!

Hey man the pro-tech velcro straps rock, that's the first thing to go that squeeze-please battery hold-down. With the velcro you drop it and lock it, it works great:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[sledgeU812]

oops, my bad. also, at the time, i wasnt sure if i could still get parts for it. no, actually, there wasnt alot of losi guys running up here, it was mainly FT T3's. now its still a bunch of FT's and now theres a T2 and a XXX-T MFE. now i have to wait till next season to see what's running, theres another track starting up here next season and its on the same day that we run.

[pudder]

You can still get parts.

[q45guy]

Excuse the ad here folks...but the sale section moves so fast and the threads tend to get lost in the hase. Everyone in this thread seems to enjoy the RC10T...so I thought I would post this here. Just lemme know if anyone might be interested. Thanks! :)

***Well I've decided to sell the first R/C I ever got. Its an Team Associated RC10T. It includes a Futaba Magnum Junior radio, all servos, receiver pack, 2 1500Ah Duratrax Sanyo 6-cell 7.2 volt batteries and Hobbico model 905 AC/DC charger. It comes with a motor but its the stock motor and is slow. You need to resolder the connections to the motor. An easy fix for any experianced electric RC user. With the new modern motor and upgraded batteries this thing will fly! I'm lookin to get $100 out of the whole package plus shipping. E-mail me at q45guy@attbi.com if interested.***

[pudder]

Think about it good and hard, a lot if you really want to sell your first RC. I know you might regret it, even if you dont use it, you might still miss it. :(

[sledgeU812]

when i bought my first r/c (traxxas sledgehammer) i vowed never to sell it, and i dont plan on it. ive had it for a little over a year and a half so far.

[pudder]

Sadly, I did sell my first RC, I didn't find it much of a loss but I still would have liked to have it, it was a Kyosho so again, not a big loss, but anything else I would have kept.

I should have never sold my Tamiya M03 Cooper though, that was the best damn car ever.:(

[RC10's]

Dont sell your RC10T if you have one, they are excellent trucks and you will miss it. I have a RC10 that i sold to my friend and boguht it back like a year later, still have the RC10T though and will never sell it. Does anyone know how hard it is to get parts for these trucks? luckly its AE and doesnt break much:)

[q45guy]

Well I'm not as attached to this car as you guys seem to be so for me its no big deal really. Hell...I'm even wanting to sell my HPI RS4-3 RTR. I want to get into the electric rally. That way I can have fun off-road and on-road...whilst still being able to use touring car bodies.

[pudder]

RC10's, it is damn easy for me to get parts for these vehicles, I don't know about yourself. I think AE still has lots of these parts in stock still because when ever I needed to order a part for my RC10 (restoring it) I could buy them new through my race track owner. :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by q45guy
....Well I've decided to sell the first R/C I ever got....Team Associated RC10T.....

Directs q45 to the eBay web site, where there are people searching for his product as well as protection systems implemented to protect both buyer and seller, he will have better luck there and may even fetch more than $100 . . .

Originally posted by pudder
RC10's, it is damn easy for me to get parts for these vehicles, I don't know about yourself. I think AE still has lots of these parts in stock ......

Pudder most of that is indeed true, but it's my understanding that most of the original white-plastic parts are just plain gone, as are many of the old 6-gear tranny parts - if you have a stealth you're likely to not have a problem. Interestingly enough, nearly ALL the parts for my GT will fit on the original 10T and vice versa, while the T2 and T3 have completely different (and in my op, downgraded) tranny and suspension parts.

[LRSeriesIII]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Interestingly enough, nearly ALL the parts for my GT will fit on the original 10T and vice versa, while the T2 and T3 have completely different (and in my op, downgraded) tranny and suspension parts.
Isn't the GT based off of the 10T? I got my 10ST right after the T2 came out as my first R/C car (the T2 Sport wasn't out yet) and I've noticed that the GT really doesn't seem to have changed much in all that time. Not sure though since I'm purely an electric guy.

BTW, I'm new to this forum and it really is great to see there's still such a great community of people running their 10T's. So are you guys saying the newer stadium trucks can't take all the punichment 10T's can? I've never raced and it's the only stadium truck I've had (and I've put through an awful lot, inculding landing upside down without a body from a jump on cement:)) and just figured that most competition level stadium trucks would be this durable. Guess I'm just spoiled...:D

[rocknbil]

Yes it is.

The 10T was AE's original truck, then they modified that chassis for the GT, spinning the stealth tranny 180º for the conversion. Other than that there is not a whole lot of difference between the original 10T and the GT.

Most of the suspension upgrades and other parts remained compatible from the 10T to the GT through the years although they changed in form and material. The major current difference is that the GT now has the anodized aluminum chassis, which I have been tempted (but have not) to put into an electric. :D

The T2 is where AE and I began to part company. I bought one. While I really liked the new chassis configuration (the "achilles heel" of the 10T was axial chassis flex, it went away with this config) I did not like the changes they made in the tranny and suspension. And I could never get it to glue to the track like the 10T.

I never bought a T3 but borrowed a friend's for a couple weeks. Didn't like that much either, and the plastic chassis was not my favorite upgrade. For me, the aluminum pan was what separated the AE's from the rest of the flock.

So as you see by my link I'm happy with the 10T's and GT's. :D I guess my problems with the newer trucks is not so much the durability but the way they handle. I know the "professionals" say the later versions handle better, I just don't agree.

[pudder]

Well as much as I like the first two trucks, I find that the T3 has quite a short wheelbase compared to the T3. Not that that is bad, a few guys still race them at my local track, they look like awsome trucks.

Someday maybe I'll get a T but for now I have my RC10 Buggy, and T3. The T3 is a super durable truck, I have yet to break another part on it. I have only broken one part so far, and that was replaced with an RPM part. I have been racing it for about half a year almost, and have hit many things. :)

Associated has the best RC's.

I am still pondering wheather to get a B4 or B3. I think the B3 is more durable than the B4 will be, but we'll have to see about that. I wish associated would have kept the aluminum backplate on the truck, those things are so durable compared to Losi and Kyosho's plastic ones, of course they don't have as good of plastic as AE.

[LRSeriesIII]

Does anyone know if the tranny brace for a GT will fit a 10T? It doesn't look like it, but I thought I'd ask. I wanted to get an aluminum one (purely for cool factor) from HG but apparently they've discontinued it. I don't want to go to the trouble of making one myself if I can buy one cheap.

[rocknbil]

I don't think so, look at the enlargements here:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

The GT brace is shorter than the 10T brace.

[LRSeriesIII]

Thanks rocknbil, gues I'll have to make one myself... :rolleyes: :(

[rocknbil]

Well the graphite ones are pretty sweet. :D

[LRSeriesIII]

Do you actually notice a difference in performance with them?

[rocknbil]

LOL Of course not! Just in durability and overall coolness.

Coolness is of course, very very important. :D

[adam lancia]

rockinbil: they are here...finally!!! i have successfully taken and downloaded pictures of my 10T with the chassis brace. i hope they work....

adam

[adam lancia]

this one might be better.....

[adam lancia]

another...

[adam lancia]

this is the MIP 2.65:1 tranny that i found at me LHS...what a score!!!

[rocknbil]

HOLY CRAP! Those braces are almost a direct rip of mine! :D I should package and patent . . . . well too late now, old technology you know . . .

Do you find that they tend to "bow inward" when flexed? I found that mine did, which is why I put the cross-brace between them, just in front of the batt. box.

[adam lancia]

they are pretty close in design to yours...i can't remember when they were produced though...early 90's is my guess. i find that they bow out rather than in and there's a reason for that. there's a "U" shaped battery holder that slides in between the top of the battery box and the battery at the rear and it locks into a notch on each side of the braces at the front just above the front battery box. at the front (where the open end of the U shape is) i put 2 really short body mounts (1/4" tall, pointing to the roof of the body)and a small piece of carbon fiber with 2 holes (1 for each body mount) to hold them from bowing in. it makes the braces bow out a bit but i might be making a custom oval chassis out of carbon fiber for it so the braces will be secured at a few more points along the chassis (probably going to use GT nose tube mounts) which should prevent any bowing in or out. that may be a while off though....have to concentrate on getting my B4. the thing is a ton of fun on the oval..it's so heavy, it just sticks to the inside of turns and shoots out of there.

adam

[crazy1]

Just pulled my old RC10T out of storage. Put in a cheap speed control, a P2k2 stock motor, and charged up the old batterys. Did good at the local track. What gearing should be used for the "NEW" generation of stock motors? Have tried the 21 pinion and 87or 85 tooth spur.

[SteveK]

A&L sold those braces, and they are still sold under the name Factory Works (Same company, the two guys split the brands sometime back for whatever reason). There are two battery hold-downs: The long U-shaped one for 6 cell packs, and one like the original Associated one for 7 cell 'hump' packs. They should really work well, especially if you want to reduce the height of the chassis sidewalls by about 1/2 to lighten the weight (Just leave the wall regular height for about an inch behind the nose tube mounts and in front of the rear bulkhead mounting holes, and radius the transition smoothly).
www.factoryworks.com



For gearing the RC10T, just us a calculator to match the final drive ratio (FDR) of the newer Associated and Losi trucks run at your track. The T2 has a 2.6x:1 ratio, as do the last few Losi trucks. The T3 has a 2.4:1 ratio. The original Stealth has a 2.25:1 ratio.

To get the FDR: (Spur/Pinion) x Tranny ratio.
So for a 21-87 combo: (87/21) x 2.25 => 4.14 x 2.25 = 9.315:1 ratio.

[rustlerman1]

hey guys i am get a rc10. I am getting a lot of hop ups like super rooster,12t trinity motor,trinity battery,19t pinion gear 87t spur,hitic radio and reciever, and a lot of aluminum. tell me what you guys think it will do????????????

thanx zack

[rob_b]

I just started rebuilding my RC10T. This is my first brace, it will serve as the mount for the chassis stiffener as well as creating a solid loop of aluminum for the drivetrain. My next step is to make a new shock tower. Does anyone know where I can get any 1/8" graphite or carbon fiber.

Rob

[SteveK]

www.mcmaster.com Has everything you could want. Try laying out the holes in Radio Shack 'perfboard'. It's this thin, fiberglass-like stuff with a grid of little tiny holes. It's easy to cut and drill, and cheap to buy, so you can lay out holes and shapes easily before cutting into the good stuff. Plus when it's all laid out and like you want it, you can just clamp it to the good fiberglass and use it as a drill fixture.

Try this with your rear brace: Extend the connection points to the chassis floor, about to the middle of the battery pack. The chassis from the front to the rear bulkhead screws is pretty stiff, but there is a good deal of flex from those rear bulkhead screws on back. Your brace will help any flex between the bulkhead and the tranny, even more than the AE graphite tranny brace, but the main flex point is still there.

[Conman]

I'm glad that some people appreiciate the 10T. I'm going to buy one of those chassis braces.

[rob_b]

McMater has tons of cool stuff. There's a site I foundhttp://www.cstsales.com/Carbon/carbon-plate.htm. I think i'm going to make the shocktowers and chassis brace from some Carbon Fiber, too bad I can't afford it right now. Here's a pic of my front tower, it will use 4" shocks for some extra travel.

Rob

[Conman]

Sweet!

[crazy1]

This is a break from the way the tread is going. I think like rocknbill. I like the way the RC10T handels. Came in third out of seven at the local track. This truck is capable of winning still. It just needs a better driver. What kind of setups are you running? What motors, batterys, shock oils, springs and gear ratios? The track the truck is running on has gradent (hill) change an large flat oval section, an off camber double leading to a table top, serval tight turns, and a triple. For some reason the track responds well to step pins. With thirty weight oil and blue springs on all corners I seam to be able to out corner the rest of the crowd. But my driving mistakes and lack of forward speed hurts. The truck is oufitted with an p2k2 stock motor, 20 turn limit speed control, 21 pinion and 87 spur. The motor seems to get to hot with a 85 spur. Any sugestions?

[SteveK]

The GT shares geometry with the 10T, and it's still the dominant nitro racing truck. Losi is on their, what, 3rd truck? 4th?

[Conman]

Losi: GXT then NXT and then XXXNT. AE: RC10GT. I wonder who had the better design?;)

[rocknbil]

I've owned the 10T 2 and 4 and sold the plastic-chassis ones and kept my ol' 10T's, they just rock. :D

[Keyz28]

Amen rocknbil, I sold my ftt3 and my t2 which was way better than the t3. Kept the old T. It's now a mid engined truck with a lot of t2/t3 parts. I finally found a body as one off as it is, went to an out of state hobby shop and found an 80s era Andy's hummer, even has the hot pink decals. I'll try and get some pics up now.

[Conman]

Here's mine...

[Conman]

Here's mine...

[Conman]

Stupid BB. Double post.

[rocknbil]

Umm . . it was you that clicked twice. :D

Here's our fleet, again:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[Conman]

It was probably my browser. I clicked once, waited, nothing. I clicked again and my PC locked up and I restarted it. Whan I got back on it was there twice.

[Conman]

Has anyone used the RPM arms on your RC10T?

[SteveK]

I have the original RPM arms: They are more flexible than the T2 arms, and certainly those last 'boxed' arms. They are also heavier I'm sure, since that RPM plastic weighs a ton, but I can't see ever breaking them. If you can break an RPM suspension arm on anything, that's gotta be one hell of a shot.

[rocknbil]

I have four sets of RPM arms . . . .








And they're all in my box, not on the trucks. :D
They cam from the various resurrection (not restoration!) projects, took them off and replaced with stocks.

[Conman]

So, is that 4 whole sets, front and rear.

[RC Hunter]

I just got some rc10t's again after 6 years of missing my first one and need a tranny for one of them. I want the original tranny not the stealth. From what I've seen, I don't like the adjustable diff on the stealth. Do any of you have one for sale or know what parts I would need to build one?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
RC Hunter

[rocknbil]

Conman sorry, it was two fronts, two rears, just gave them away last week.

Rc Hunter . . . . did they ever even have a 6-gear tranny for the 10T? I could be wrong, but I really don't think they did. I think by the time the truck came out they'd gone to the Stealth. Do not fear the Stealth, it ROOLS man, the design has not changed in 10 years or so other than increasing the diff diameter for lower ratio (T2's+ and GT) and has been copied by other companies, and not nearly as well!

[SteveK]

Right: The 10T came out in late summer of 1991, after the release of the Stealth tranny. It never had the 6-gear, which had already been replaced in the newer Team Car earlier that year.

The Stealth is great: It's the only ball diff I've had that's never given me trouble, even though the others are virtual copies of it, in an HPI touring car and an MRC truck. I actually ended up using some parts from the Stealth diff to fix the MRC one (Thrust washer, balls, screw, and nut. I use the Stealth grease on every diff). And the Stealth is a LOT less problematic than the original tranny.

[RC Hunter]

It's actually been about 8 years since I had my first 10t. A few years ago my buddy was fixing a friends rc10t and it had what I thought was a stealth. It slipped like crazy. I don't remember my truck slipping that bad. At that time (1995) they had the optional "upgrade" to the stealth tranny which makes me think there was a non stealth tranny or it was a stealth. Unless it's a gimmick to get folks to buy a "stealth" :D Now that I think of it, I could of had my slipper locked. Maybe that is why mine seemed to slip less. Thanks for the input fellas. I think this is the only rc10t thread around. I hope they keep it going :cool:
RC Hunter

[SteveK]

There was NEVER a version of the RC10T without the Stealth tranny. There were some aftermarket upgrades: 64 pitch internal gears, a couple sets of gears and cases that changed it from 2.25:1 to 2.6:1, and various diff ring/ball sets, but nothing major (Besides the ratio changes, which did make sense).

AE sold the Stealth tranny separately for years, because they had 7 years of non-Stealth cars out there that could upgraded. RCCA once listed the Stealth as an 'option' in their small 'Buyer's Guide' segments of Monster & Racing Truck special issues, and it always boggled my mind: The truck already came witht he Stealth tranny, so why list it as an option for the RC10T.

[RC Hunter]

Yea, why say upgrade when it really was a replacement :confused: That's why I was confused lol. Guess we got them figured out. Just a big typo maybe? I can say they are durable buggers. They did something right. Just to be certain, there never was a non-stealth or just not on the rc10t?

[SteveK]

There was never an RC10T released without the Stealth. Not the RC10T, the RC10T Sport, or the RC10T Team Truck.

There was a 6-gear tranny in the RC10 beginning in 1984. The RC10 Graphite and Championship Edition (Both replaced the original parts with new wheels, tires, front arms, shocks, shock towers, body) also had it in 1989 and 1990 respectively. The Team Car was released with the Stealth in late 1990, the RC10T with the Stealth in 1991, and Assocaited replaced the 6-gear in the RC10CE with the Stealth in 1992.

[RC Hunter]

Who can argue with that lol. Makes sence to me now. Thanks for that info SteveK.

[rocknbil]

So did the 10T ever have a 6-gear tranny?


LOL!!!! STEVE DON'T ANSWER just kidding . . . and let us BOTH pray JeepsDaddy does not find this thread.

:D

[RC Hunter]

:D Does he lead to a hornets nest or something? Wouldn't want to stir up anything ;)

[rocknbil]

Nah . . . it's just . . JeepsDaddy seems to be a bit "sweet" on SteveK. :D LOL!!!!

[RC Hunter]

oooooook :D

[SteveK]

Typical posts by that guy:

SteveK:
"You can use XYZ on your car, that will fit, as will ABC"


Jeeps:
"Did you even have that car? What makes you think you can post on something you don't have? blah blah blah.

Now, I did have that car/truck, what you should do is use XYZ.

peace out... :) "


So basically he rips me for giving people correct information, which you don't need to have actually OWNED the car to know, and then he says the exact same things I said.

One time somebody was asking how to put taller tires on a T3, so I said just to buy some Masher 2000s since they bolt right on, and you only give up like a 1/2" from the Maxx tires he wanted to use (Which would have required massive custom work, weighed more, and hurt performance more than they helped), and he yells at me for not having owned a T3.

Sigh....

[RC Hunter]

Hornet nest, hornet nest :eek: LOL. I know the type, but some peeps do brag and say I have so and so car with boo coo hop-ups and it will smoke anything. However, I agree most things are universal knowledge between any rc. I know nothing about street cars but if you get told something will work and it doesn't....well who's fault is it :D

[SteveK]

SWEET. I just bought a used 10T with bearings on ebay. I have enough parts to build a 10T but for the tranny (It's in an RC10DS), and to rebuild my old one out of spare parts, and buy bearings, would have been more than I spend on this thing. And I can sell the chrome wheels and tires it comes with to recoup some cash.

I'm going to add either a stock 10T body or one of the newer HPI RS4 MT bodies (Prolly the F350). Wheels and tires will be RPM Torkerz with aluminum finish wrapped in some Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs. I think I'll need some new bearings and axles for the rear, but that's no big deal.

This truck will replace the MRC MT10S/M that I am pretty sure I'll sell: I want to streamline my workshop into a couple brands of cars. I think the RS4s will go too, making way for some more Tamiya on-roaders.

[RC Hunter]

I've been doing some research and the RC10 GT tranny has the same part numbers as a t2 tranny. The only difference I can see is the case. Right or Wrong?

[rocknbil]

No- the T2 went to the larger diff gear and rings used on the GT for a lower "losi-like" gear ratio, which is why the case is bigger. Everything else I *think* is the same.

[SteveK]

Not knowing either very well, I would guess that the internals could very well be the same: They have similar 2.6x:1 ratios, and it wouldn't be the worst idea to share everything but the case.

[RC Hunter]

Should fit the modern tranny case though. I'm going to give it a try as soon as I find a gt tranny.

[rocknbil]

OMG I can't believe I overlooked this, the diameter of the inside of the outdrives is different too, to match the diff gear and rings, forgive me for I am old. So basically the case, diff gear, rings, and outdrives are all different, which leaves only (heh heh) the idle gear and topshaft the same.

I just pulled out my son-in-law's T2 and set it next to our 10T's to verify, the configuration of the T2 "looks" the same as the 10T, with the smaller gears moving up and backward. The only difference is the bottom section of the tranny case where the diff gear lives is larger to accommodate the larger diff gear. The idle and topshaft gears remain the same.

The GT case is another story.

The original pan type GT used the exact same Stealth tranny as the 10T, except it's turned around making the smaller gears move up and forward. The original Stealth has a plug, like a button, opposite the topshaft, so when they did this you could remove the button, put the topshaft through the other side, and replace the button into the right side. In this respect, the original GT had the exact same tranny as the 10T.

The T2 came along, and they started using the larger diff gear. Now that they had machining for that diff and outdrives(!!), they reworked the GT case into a case that uses the same larger gear, and does not fit back onto any electric. Not only is there no button opposite the top shaft any more, the diff is a lower profile - the top shaft "sits" a full 1/4" or so lower than the original stealth - which, even if you drill out the opposite side of the case, poses all kinds of spur and motor mounting problems.

The bottom line is that if you're looking to fit a GT tranny to an electric, any of the new style trannies that come with the anodized aluminum kits most likely won't fit. I've looked at it and considered trying it. :D The old style GT tranny is basically the same thing as the 10T stealth, with the topshaft sticking out the other side.

If you're after the lower gear ratio, you have to buy the T2 tranny and drop it in.

[SteveK]

No, you don't need the whole T2 or GT tranny (More readily available on ebay) to get a higher internal tranny ratio:
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/hires/8055.htm

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/pics/hires/8055.jpg

And MIP made a 'change box' set, with a larger diff gear and a smaller idler gear (Only for spacing issues: The idler doesn't affect the tranny ratio) and a new case.

[RC Hunter]

Am I chasing a unicorn? I just looked and I have more parts than I thought :cool: All I need are some outdrives, an idler gear and 1 drive ring. Do you fellas have any of those parts for sale?

[rocknbil]

1 drive ring? :D

Buy some new ones, they should be in pairs.

Don't have any spares here but you can get them anywhere, Tower Hobbies, for example.

Steve what's the deal with that RPM? Same diff and idler as the original, different size topshaft gear? If that's the case even though the final ratio is the same, the relative ratio of the idler to the diff gear isn't. Probably doesn't matter.

The only prob I see with that setup is when something starts to wear, you're stuck using the RPM parts, which is why I suggested dropping in the T2, and the RPM upgrade was already mentioned.

[RC Hunter]

Just lookin to save a few bucks :D I'll order them. I need outdrives the most.

[SteveK]

Yeah, RPM changes the topshaft gear to a smaller gear to allow you to keep the same diff. The case just allows for the different spacing.

The MIP set was a different diff gear and they included an idler, but I don't know if it's a different size or just their own gear. Their case also takes into account the different gear spacing.

It it my understanding that the size of the idler doesn't matter, it just determines spacing and direction of rotation: Remove it and the motor would have to be reversed, and the spur would be too close to the diif. If you do the math, you get 2.25:1 diving the diff gear by the topshaft

I can't find a different topshaft until you get to the B4, so I assume Associated uses the same Stealth topshaft all the way through the 10T, T2, B2/B3/T3, and all the GTs.

[SteveK]

What's to wear out? The case should last forever unless you strip a hole, and the topshaft is offered as a replacement by RPM (As I'm sure the case is too if you ask). That's what great about the conversion: You keep all the original diff parts and the two most wearing gears.

I had enough parts to build a second vehicle of some kind, either a 10T or buggy, so I bought the used truck for the tranny. Well that's fine a good, but now I have enough parts for ANOTHER buggy/truck.... Maybe I'll just rebuild that tranny afterall with an RPM kit, use it in the truck, and build the other one as a dirt oval truck/buggy and race it.

[SteveK]

Wow, that was quick: They shipped my 10T on Monday and it came today.

Overall not a bad buy for $43: Truck with full ball bearings, decent tires and wheels (That I have no use for), and everything plastic looked pretty good. There were a few problems:
- Front hinge pins were WAY bent.
- Shocks are an odd combination of Traxxas hard-ano'd fronts. and Associated gold rears. I haven't examined either set yet to see if I will keep them on the truck or not.
- The previous owner had the rear arms flipped, which caused the universals to bend from hitting the arms. No big deal since they are 1/4" axles and I'm buying some 3/16" dogbone-axles and bearings.

Other than that, it's all in good shape, or can at least be built with stuff I have on hand.

Reminds me of that RCCA project: Kevin Hetmanski bought a beat-on GT for $10, and rebuilt it, and ended up spending like $500 on the whole project. Basically he replaced everything but a handfull of parts, but it looked pretty cool.

[BL10T]

I think I'll put this thread on top again where it belongs.

Here's my brushless RC10T. I am upgrading everything on it, however. It should be sweet running on 7-8 cells. Mid-40s and long runtimes.

JC

[BL10T]

I think I'll put this thread on top again where it belongs.

Here's my brushless RC10T. I am upgrading everything on it, however. It should be sweet running on 7-8 cells. Mid-40s and long runtimes.

JC

[rocknbil]

Whhosh, goldies and all. :D

Is it me or is the front suspension riding a little high?

[BL10T]

Hi Rocknbill:

Yeah, I had it set for max clearance. When I put the Masher 2K's on it, I'll have tons of height. The truck is going to be sweet once I throw all the new goodies on it. I just need an afternoon free to do it. The parts are sitting in a box. I got:

New gray Team shocks, front and rear.

All new AE black parts (bulkheads, battery cups, suspension mounts, etc.) Mine were dyed, looked lousy.

RPM front and rear arms, body mounts, bumper

Factory Team Ti turnbuckles/hinge pins

Robinson Ti Stealth topshaft

MIP Lite Drives (outdrives)

Aluminum CVD bones

Masher 2K tires, front and rear

HPI Super Star rims-chrome

Dahms Spitfire body.

Hitec 625MG servo

All this stuff cost a lot of dinero, far more than a new T4. I did the right thing, right?

Hey, what bodies fit the 10T other than the original body and the ones that Dahms made? I know that on the T2-T4 trucks, that Associated changed the length of the chassis and the shock towers no longer line up with the body? Can I use a monster truck body on the car (not a low-slung race truck)?

When combined with the brushless setup and some new cells (I have old red 1400SCRs in the photo), this guy should be sweet.

By the way, every single part on the truck is obtainable even the aluminum chassis. Associated seems to have great parts support.

Later.

JC

[rocknbil]

Yeah funny thing about that idn't it, after all these years? :D

Pro line has some good bodies, any of those should fit I think, I managed to cop a few originals off ebay, it's still the most durable body around, the lexan is thicker.

[BL10T]

Hey Rocknbill,

As for the Pro Line bodies, the ones they sell are for the T3 and maybe T2. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that after the original 10T and GT, that Associated started lengthening the truck chassis and the shock towers are now farther apart. In the racing trucks, the shock tower has to fit the bulges in the front and rear of the bodies. Otherwise it won't work. I would love to run a Crowd Pleazer body since they have a nice, modern shape, but I didn't think they would fit.

JC

[rocknbil]

Yeah they did change, but I'm not sure, I'd have to look into it . . . STEVEK? WHADAYA SAY?

[SteveK]

Hmm. I don''t know about the wheelbase or distance between the shock towers of the 10T, T2, and T3, but I know they changed the shape of the rear shock towers, with the T2 having a deeper 'V' shaper, and the T3 has a crossmember way up high that the body mounts to.

I don't know the relatonship between the original tub-chassis GT and and the plate-chassis GT RTR, but I know the newer GTs with the plate chassis are longer than the original RTR. Tower gives the old tub-chassis truck wheelbase at 11" even, and the newer Factory Team/RTR Plus wheelbase at 11.3"

[rocknbil]

BL10T I was going to check last night, my son-in-law who's currently in the Navy has a T2 here at the houswe, and I'l check my GT's against the original 10T and get back to you. I think the GT body will work even with the longer chassis, it's all about those stupid shock towers. :D

[BL10T]

Thanks RocknBill:

I currently have 2 unpainted bodies for my 10T sitting here, but I would like to know if the latest ones will fit. My 10T is for running (and crashing) not shelf duty. See photo. An RC10T and a Dahm's Spitfire.

Has anyone considered tossing the race truck bodies and using monster truck bodies. I am making my 10T into a monster, so this works for me.

JC

[RogueRacing]

anyone have a good starting setup for the 2nd generation tub chasis truck? rebuilding one for my Cousin and would really like to have a good starting setup for it.

[SteveK]

http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/setup/stdsett2.htm

When in doubt, go with the manual settings.

[SteveK]

For bodies, look at the newer HPI Ford, Chevy, and Dodge bodies: They are very detailed, look fairly scale like many of the Parma bodies, but they will/should fit low enough on the chassis to look a lot better than a high-riding Parma body, and they would be narrow enough to fit without too much interference in the wheels. Might not go as low as on an HPI truck because of the different shock towers, but they should fit.

I used a Parma Dodge Ram on my 10T for ovals a long time ago, and when I cut the bed for the shock tower to stick through (Kept the stock suspension pieces: No lowered shock towers or short shocks, too rough for that) and set it as low as I could, it looked pretty good. The bed actually hit the top of the motor plate before the hood hit the front shock tower. I'd do it again for bashing if I could mold some kind of shock cover insert for the holes in the bed, and then use posts in front of and behind the shock tower for strength.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/new/3trucks/trucks1.jpg

[rocknbil]

I just set the T2 bod onthe 10T, and although the holes are in a different place, it looks like it would fit fine. The shock towers land correctly.

BLT if you have the bodies . . . why don't you just set it on the chassis to see if it lines up?

[BL10T]

Hi Rocknbill:

Thank's for checking on the T2 bodies. The ones I bought are 10T bodies so they should fit perfectly. When I can get to the hobby store, I am going to see if some of the T3 bodies, as well as the HPI truck (monster/racing) will fit.

I have totally disassembled the 10T and I am rebuilding it from scratch with lots of new parts. I ran into a very frustrating problem. I decided to use 5 degree block carriers in the front instead of the standard 30 degree units. I also decided to use RPM ball ends instead of the stock ones. Now the ball ends that attach to the front shock tower (camber link) touch the steering ball ends on the bellcranks when the suspension is pushed. The 5 degree blocks put the ball ends closer together.

The kit looks really nice with modern blue turnbuckles, screws and RPM parts. I'll post a pic when I'm farther along.

JC

[BL10T]

Well, I finally finished my project more or less, except the new bodies. My 10T has all new plastic parts, including several from RPM, Ti turnbuckles/top shaft, a Hitec 625mg servo, Monster 2K tires, and of course a Hacker/Lehner BL system. Is the T4 really cooler than vintage anodized aluminum with BL power? Take a look.

JC

[SteveK]

Looks good! I am trying to decide if I want to use the Dirt Hawgs I have or spring for some Masher 2Ks or MRC's huge tires. The 10T is going to replace the MRC, and I think I'll miss those big meats on the MT10M.

[BL10T]

Thanks SteveK.

I am not sure you can tell it looks good from the photos that I'm posting. Here's another. Is there a trick to shrinking your digicam images (mine are only 200K or so to start with) to 61K? I do a simple resize but the clarity goes away.

JC

[SteveK]

I don't really know: I don't shrink many images to post on the board. Maybe crop them as tight as you can and then shrink to the biggest they can possibly be?

The best option is to host them someplace else, then they can be almost any size you want.

What body are you going to use?

[vtl1180ny]

I guess I'm not the only one who still has a 10T. I bought mine when it origionally came out.... The aluminum tub is long gone, I replaced it long ago with the RPM chassis and suspension that used to be available... I've got all titanium parts on it, I replaced the ball cups with muh stronger pieces (what and who, I don't remember...) I'm looking at the truck and realizing that the only origional part is the Tranny, which won't bem the RPM one is still available... I'll get some pictures up soon...

[RCB3]

The T2 has a longer chassis.The stock T3 body will fit if you put a body mount in the top brace of the tranny.

I've had my since when they first came out. I got it in California.I put T2 arms and the RPM tranny on because I run at a short track.It still is a very competitive truck and so is my RC10.

I've driven the T2 and T3 ,but I still like my 10T.

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard RCB3! :D

What's weird is the chassis is longer . . . but side-by-side, even with the spacers in the front on the rear axles, the T2 wheelbase is shorter. Odd idn't it?

[RCB3]

Thanx rocknbill.

Ya that is funny.My brother found out that the rear arm mounts line up different for the T2 than the T, which gave him the shorter wheelbase.
It's also funny that my T weighs more than the newer trucks and I'm usually faster than them in stock class.

[crazy1]

BL10T how did that Dahms Spitfire body fit. I now it has been a long time since your post but need a new body for my RC10T. Thinking about running it in a state race. Need to look good.

[bikejunkie]

Has anyone put a .21 in a GT. My .15 is worn out but I have a new Nova rossi .21 laying around. What do you guys think?

[BL10T]

Crazy1:

I never did get the Spitfire painted so I can't tell you. I expect that it will probably be fine, though. I was looking for something a bit sleeker than the original 10T body and the Spit is that. Any of the Dahm's bodies should fit OK. I got mine from Sheldon's hobbies for like $8.

Just got some 7-cell GP3300s from cheapbatterypacks.com. They should power my Hacker brushless setup nicely. I should be doing over 40mph in the 10T. Pretty good for a 10-year old truck.

JC

[GT Freak]

I have a 10dsT...thats a 10ds that ive turned into a truck:cool:

Got foams on it, but also have off road tires/rims for it. cant wait to show it off on here, heres the probs i need help with:

1: need a body for it (wondering if the origanal 10 t will work):confused:

2: running a trinity spec motor, and a explorer1 esc...what would a good upgrade b:confused:

3: where can i find foams for this at? or can someone post a link??

[crazy1]

My local hobby shop has some foams for a AE truck. Will look at brand name next time I stop in.

[BL10T]

GT Freak:

I think I saw mounted foam truck tires for Associated trucks (not sure if 1/4 or 3/8 axle) at Tower Hobbies. Check their full listing of car and truck tires and wheels. They were yellow and out of stock.

Here's my finished Factory Team 10T Monster Truck. I totally stripped the spur gear over the weekend cause the mesh may have been a bit loose, the Lehner 5300 has a lot of start-up torque, I'm running 7 cells, and the wheels are big so the drivetrain is under more stress. Hope the aluminum CVDs hold up.

JC

[MonsterBlazer#1]

wot r the front wheel nuts on the gt?
what size r they?

[SteveK]

You need 4-40 x 1/4" nuts. If you have the aluminum front axles, you NEED plastic nuts because the threads are actually closer to 5-40.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ok thanks stevek

[HyperBuzzin]

Quick question for ya's....
I managed to find the instruction manual for my 10T.
At the top it says "The All New" and was copyrighted in '91.
I bought the truck used more than 8 years ago, and haven't really messed with it for about the last 6 years. Would/could this be the original RC10T.
Also the manual talks about the stealth tranny. How can I tell if the tranny in it is the stealth ??
Sorry if these are some lame a§§ questions, but I'd like to know.

Thanx for any help

H¥Þ€®

[rocknbil]

If the suspension parts are all white, it's an original 10T.

And umm if you read back in this thread a page or two, this Q came up - the truck never had anything BUT the stealth. :D

The stealth is a 3-gear tranny, the RC 10 original had 6.

91. It was a very good year. :D

[RCB3]

crazy1- The T3 body will fit if you use a body mount off of the tranny brace like the RC10 used.

The original 10T also had 3 piece wheels and skinny and wide front tires.

Yes '91 was an awesome year!!:D

[HyperBuzzin]

KOOL !! :cool: It HAD white parts. In an attempt to make them black, I ended up with a kinda rusty color instead :eek: doesn't look that bad though.
And it does have 3 piece wheels. I'm pretty sure the guy I got it from kept the skinny front ones, but I cut down a set of wide 1 piece wheels and took a section out of wide tires and C.A.'d them back together. I was surprised how well they hold up !

Guess I should've read more than just the first 3 pages here.

Thanx guys !!

Here's what all it's got.......

* Novak 410-HPc Speed Control
* Novak NER-2X Receiver
* Speedworks Monster Mash motor
* Dirt Dawgs all around (plus about 12 other pairs of misc. tires)
* Titanium turnbuckles
* Futaba FP-T2PKA Magnum Junior Transmitter
* Futaba FP-S148 Steering servo (is this a hi-torque one ???)

How's this set-up sound to you all ???

It still need alot of it put back together. I don't remember why I took so much of it apart, but that's part of the fun of this R/C stuff !!
I had a RC10GT, but that needed to much maintenance so I sold it about 4 months after I got it.

[HyperBuzzin]

Any opinions on my set~up ???

I did run a couple of races quite awhile back and it didn't do too bad.

If I can find a track in my area now, I might try a race or two and am curious if this would stand up with the newer trucks out there these days.

Thanx for any input.........

* Novak 410-HPc Speed Control
* Novak NER-2X Receiver
* Speedworks Monster Mash motor (modified-I not sure of the # of turns)
* Dirt Dawgs all around (plus about 12 other pairs of misc. tires)
* Titanium turnbuckles
* Futaba FP-T2PKA Magnum Junior Transmitter
* Futaba FP-S148 Steering servo (is this a hi-torque one ???)

[rocknbil]

No, the SP-148 is a futaba standard. I would go for the (9402? their numbers are so close together) one that has 89 oz/in at 4.8 v, 110 oz/in at 6.0v, it's blazing fast and it's what I have in my 10T's.

Everything else looks OK though, I'd also get some MIP CVD's.

What did you use to try and dye them? I've dyed both ours 10T's black and they look fine:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

You boil some water, turn it low, drop in a third of a bottle of Rit liquid dye, and simmer them for about 20 minutes . . . rinse and you're good to go . . .

[HyperBuzzin]

Dang !! I musta left the Hi-torque servo on the GT when I sold it :mad:

The wheels were flouresent yellow before I dyed them, and I don't think I had boiling water, just really hot (from the tap).

Oh well, life goes on. I'll have to look into the servo you mentioned. Thanx much.

H¥Þ€®
Just gotta find a track now !!!

[SteveK]

I just helped a kid put together a TB01 rally package, and there is some Futaba servo with like 90 oz-in of torque for like $25. I think I will go with them over Hitec units for my off-road cars and trucks.

The HPc is a great ESC: It's my only 'racing' ESC, and even though I rarely race, it still works great. I couldn't see replacing it yet if I chose to race again soon.

I stripped down the used 10T I bought for $40 off ebay, basically the universals were trashed because he installed the arms upside-down, but everything else was in decent shape. I just need to drop some of the white parts in a dye bath, deepen the countersinks on the bottom of the chassis, rebuild and mount the Team shocks from my MRC, and rebuild it all.

Not sure what to do about those bearings with the plastic-looking 'seals'.

I will use my RPM Torkerz and Dirt Hawgs, and probably my Pro-Line F150 for the 'Pede right now.

[HyperBuzzin]

Originally posted by SteveK
there is some Futaba servo with like 90 oz-in of torque for like $25.....

The HPc is a great ESC....

I will use my RPM Torkerz and Dirt Hawgs

90 oz-in of torque, for $25 huh ?? Sounds like something worth looking into !!

Along with finding my instruction manual for the 10T, I also found the manual for the HPc. Once I read through it, I figured it was a good one to continue using.

Opps, they are Dirt "Hawgs", I wrote "Dawgs" :p Oh well, I guess ya know what I meant :D

Got one more question.... Are these the MIP CVD's ............

EDIT.... Never mind on that question. I did a parts search and that answered that.

[SteveK]

Futaba S3010:
SPECS: Speed: 0.16 sec/60 degrees at 6.0V
Torque: 91 oz-in (6.5kg-cm) at 6.0V

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDTB3&P=7

Hitec has some similarly-priced servos with about the same specs, but I'll take Futaba quality any day if it's close.

BTW: Don't forget to look at BOTH 4.8v and 6.0v power and speed ratings. They give both numbers, but all electric R/Cs supply the servos with 6.0 volts. Looking at that, the low-end Futaba servos (And those from other companies) have about 57 oz-in of torque and a sub-2.0 second transit time: More than enough for anything on-road, and even perfectly acceptable for a mild-motored 2WD truck.

I plan to stock-pile a bunch of these when I get all my cars and trucks running. In roughly chronological order: Clod Buster, RC10T-now-DS, MRC MT10S (To be sold), Bolink Legend (I'll make SOMETHING out of it), Bolink Eliminator MT (Bought for it's 'retro' appeal), RS4, RS4 Rally, TL01 (Also like to be sold), Mini Cooper, Pajero XB, Micro RS4, Mini-X, and RC10T-to-be. I'm also planning on adding a Losi Mini-T and Tamiya Alfa M-04M to my garage soon, and possibly a TB01 to replace the rest of my TCs.

[RCB3]

If you decide to get CVD's I would opt to get the ones that will fit the T3 and late model T2 just because it would be easier to find them. If so you will also need the late model T2 hub carriers and 3/8 x 3/16 bearings(same as the front and the top and mid shaft bearings in the stealth tranny).

I still race my 10T and I am very competitive.

[rccarman5]

hey guys, i have a rc10 graphite buggy that i once loved when i was little, after time pased i moved on to a nitro xxx-nt truck. i love that to death but i really miss my buggy that needs extensive work. if i had to list what it ineeds, u guys would be shocks. although i still have most of my white colored pieces, i might have to replace a few.

the one think i'm looking for is the manual. i used to have it but i lost it and it had all my part numbers!!!

i'm looking for the shocks, they use cartriges that u have to manually load into the bodies adn they stay there, i'm trying to look for the C clip that holds that washer in place.

but i really need the manual. if ANYONE knows where i can get one or download one, i would really appriciate it. i checked on associateds site and i have no luck, everything is so weird. or i'm not looking in the right section. thanks guys and sorry for the long post.

[SteveK]

You have to buy a CD for most of the manuals now, but it's pretty cheap and seems very complete.

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/cathub_offroad.htm

[tibbar110]

I am looking for a black RC10T aluminum chassis for a reasonable amount of
money. If somebody has this item for sale, an email will be appreciated.
It must support the Stealth transmission.

Thanks,

--
Jason
tibbar110@yahoo.com

[rccarman5]

how do i buy it?

can i send money and i have to burn it? or what?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tibbar110
I am looking for a black RC10T aluminum chassis......
Keep your eye on eBay, I see them all the time there.

[oldRCguy]

This is too funny finding this thread... Last night I pulled my dusty 10T out of the closet. I didn't realize it must be over 10 years old!! I'm thinking of charging the batteries up and taking it for a spin. First I have to get some axle pins for the MIP axles. A new steering servo wouldn't hurt either. My current one must be pushing 13 years old!! LOL!! The wheel bearings still spin like new after sitting for 5 years!!!

I remember it being an awesome truck right out of the box. The only mods I did to mine were the following:

MIP ballbearing steering
MIP CVD axles
Tecnacraft titanium turnbuckles
Tecnacraft titanium hinge pins

I had a Losi Junior T at the same time I had this truck. The "JT" was sold a long time ago and I kept the 10T for some reason. I will post a pic as soon as I get some batteries for my digital camera.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by oldRCguy
.....I had a Losi Junior T at the same time.....

Heh. My second was a JR buggy that I upgraded to truck. Welcome aboard, and be sure to see the stuff on chassis braces on page two, it makes a big difference in the way the T handles.

[HyperBuzzin]

The first real RC I had was a Losi . Don't remember the model, all I do remember is a guy at work who designed his own oval track cars said he had a truck for sale. It was actually a converted buggy. I entered it in a kinda generic carpet race (in an unoccupied store w/ short shag carpet) a new hobby shop had and took 1st place. The biggest competitor was a 10T with spike tires. I just bought a new set of foams. Don't know if that was my advantage to winnin' but I won and got it all on video.
I haven't watched that tape for about 7 years now. Guess I'll have to look for it to relive those memories !!

[oldRCguy]

Okay, I got batteries for my camera, here is a pic:


????? No pic. Hmmm..... Little help please.

[oldRCguy]

Trying again.....

[Budman_222]

You guys with the white original T parts that want black parts might want to just replace them with black parts instead of dyeing them. They are worth a lot more white than the cost of new black parts. I've seen people on some of these forums looking for the old white stuff and saying how hard it was to find. Might be worth some bucks. You sure can't undye them. Just a thought.


Bud

[oldRCguy]

Okay, I'm going to try to post a pic again....

OMG!! Finally... My pic appears!!

[oldRCguy]

Here is another....

Looks a little better than this pic since I started to fix it up.

[rocknbil]

Well welcome aboard, the 10T still rocks the Casbah. :D Is it your camera angle or does that thing have 0º toe-in in the rear? Doesn't it get squirrely on you in straights?

I'd lose the stock tires and put the Pro-Line Edge's on it, but it's all good, damn the plastic chassis and rock on 10T! :D

[oldRCguy]

The rear end toe is stock. Is there a way to alter this? As for the tires, new front and rear ProLines are on the grocery list. Those tires must be about ten years old. As for things I've done in the last couple of weeks:

New steering servo
RPM 2.65 transmission conversion
Rebuilt shocks
New spur gear
Rear green springs
Front silver springs
Cleaned and oiled all bearings

Things to come:

New tires and wheels
Some 3300 cells
New radio (taking recomendations!)
A new body. HPI has a Beetle and a '73 Bronco. I wonder if they would fit with a minimum of fuss. I would like to use something fairly unconventional.

[rocknbil]

You can get suspension mounts for the rear for 0º, 1-1/2º, 3º, and I think even 5º toe-in. Yeah those are the original tires that came with the kit, more than 10 years I think! I still have a couple sets.

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys just got my lightly used FTGT and am really digging it, has a new sirio in it very fast. Quick question or two, my front arms have so much play in them, i have two big spacers in front of the springs and there is still a gap, should i put on more spacers, longer springs or does it matter, they seem to be the original springs? I got a flat battery pack to put on the chassis is that a good idea? and then mount my reciever to that, does that help keep weight down in the front? do you put anything in the rear, what alluminum pin carriers do i need to buy if any, if im going to race it alot? thanks guys...... :D

[Longarm500]

After nearly 8 years I have decided to check on my old RC10T. All of my equipment is that old or older. I already had many upgrades (MIP CVD's, Technacraft Ti, and I believe MIP steering) to the 10T and the only prob I have had so far was getting one of those felt cushions for the tranny...decided to use same thickness poly foam whatever stuff and cut to size. I remember someone making such a product many years ago....

Still have a Novak M1C that I am not sure is running (or the rest of it). It is a shame though that prices never went down but UP!!!! I guess I'll be e-baying it. Gonna drop my 12x4 motor into it along with OLD Panasonic 1700's and see what happens.

I luckily have an unpainted (somewhat) S&K body that will be mounted to the chassis.

Wish me luck. :cool:

[rocknbil]

Well welcome aboard, and be sure to post a pic of it when it's running!

[idnan_h]

i bought one off ebay just a week ago, it cost me £55 and it was almost all stock with 40mhz radio gear. after a quick clean, all the dirt came off and all the white parts came up really nicely. the bottom of the chassis was scratched but i cant do anything about it. its almost all original, looks like it has 1 degree toe in at the rear and the only other parts changed are the electrics. the wheels have been changed, but the originals were given with it, what a bargain!

[Longarm500]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Well welcome aboard, and be sure to post a pic of it when it's running!

..it is up and running!!!! The batteries need several cycles of charge and discharge to get back up to some type of peak performance. Verrrrrry short run times at first with little power. What can I expect though after it has all ben neglected for so long? :rolleyes: The Novak M1C appears to be functional (kinda forgot how to dial it in) :rolleyes: :p

I guess the primary step is to cycle the batteries a few times and see what condition they are in.

Next...paint for the body. Will post a pic as soon as it is complete. :cool:

[Longarm500]

...there is a Hobbytown where I am located with outstanding prices!!! :D Looks like some of the mid range ($130) ESC's run for about $85. :D :D :cool:

[mcodyw]

I have 2 original RC10T with the stealth transmission, Futaba radios, ESC, pretty good condition, batteries. Is any one looking for one or two?

[mcodyw]

I forgot to leave my email. mcodyw@cox.net if you're interested.

[HyperBuzzin]

Ya may get better responce on sellin' stuff HERE (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=226)

[idnan_h]

the bodyshell i mine is really crap, which bodies fit on it, i like a couple of the hpi ones, do they fit nicely on the rc10t?

[HyperBuzzin]

I'm not positive, but I don't think many bodies out there now will easily fit the original 10T, without some type of mods to the body posts.

[rocknbil]

Any of the pro-line bodies for the GT or even T2 will fit it. Sometimes you have to modify the rear post a little - longer uprights, etc - but they'll fit fine.

[cheechthechi]

hi! heres a picture of my truck:)

[rocknbil]

Hey welcome aboard. I see a gold chassis, is that a buggy-to-truck conversion, or is it a buggy setup with a truck body, or what? Crack the lid off and show under the hood! :D

[Fritz57]

Hello all,

I was just about to purchase a HPI Rally car as I was looking for something to do when it is to windy to fly my electric planes. I have a 10t and 10L from the early 90's that have been gathering dust. So instead of a HPI I thought about converting the 10t to run on the street with some obvious jumping. Does anyone have any good recommendations on some cheap street tires or slicks that would fit the 10t rims or some smaller rims and tires that would fit? as well as good t-bones and a good stock motor (trinity?)

I have been out of the car scene for close to ten years but was really into it years ago, the 10t is great but the 10l can only be run on carpet or clean track as it becomes a hoover on the driveway picking up every possible rock! Electric planes are a blast but weather dependent!


Any help would be appreciated,
Fred

[rocknbil]

Wecome aboard Fred, personally I like the Dirt Hawgs with the foams removed, although you'd think foam tires would give you more traction, because of their density they don't. Dirt Hawgs with the foams out work great, just glue them on real well and poke a few holes in the inside of the tire.

[SteveK]

Man, Dirt Hawgs have gotta be SOFT with no foams in there.

For on-road tires, and of Pro-Lines tires should work pretty well. The Strikers are the lowest profile, but the hardest rubber.
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1050/1050.html
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1060/1060.html
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1062/1062.html
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1080/1080.html

[HyperBuzzin]

I had Strikers on for awhile. Worked pretty good, but didn't seem to last as long as the Dirt Hawgs, which I have on now. I also run them w/o the foam, and they don't seem to be as soft as you'd expect. I have a very small hole cut in them.
Most of all, your choice has to do with your driving style and set~up.
Personally, I like the Dirt Hawgs for the street. (they also give ya a little more ground clearance than Strikers)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by SteveK
Man, Dirt Hawgs have gotta be SOFT with no foams in there.

Yep. That's the point. :D Works great, try it sometime, it's like it's glued.

[cheechthechi]

hi rockinbill,

You're right the chassis is a gold tub that i replaced with the orginial one as it was warped. i plan to stipp off the gold anonizing and put black anonizing in the future.

[cheechthechi]

heres a chasis shot

[Fritz57]

Hello all,

Thanks for the inputs regarding my questions. I m getting ready to place an order and had a couple more questions.
I am upgrading to the 2.65 rpm tranny and would like to know what spur and pinion works best, will be getting a 2p2k motor.

I am looking at getting a decent ESC with reverse, I have a few Novaks but no reverse. How are Futabas? 330r looks interesting for the price.
Any shock covers recommended?
Front bearing carriers?

thanks,
Fred

[rocknbil]

Spur/pinion depends, I run anything from a 15 to an 18 on a 87-89. Lower geared=quicker in and out of turns where the race is won, higher=higher top speed but more strain on the motor.

For shock covers, I've done this for over 10 years: you go to your local co-op or anywhere that sells animal medical supplies, and it's even turning up in human med. supplies now. Get a roll of Co-Flex horse wrap (any other brand is too thick.) Remove your shocks, cut a piece only slightly longer than the shock, and wrap it around 1-1/2 times, roll it in your hands, use the scaps to tie up the top and bottom. Don't wrap it too tight or it will pull itself off.

Co-Flex is a stretchy, linen-like self-sticking cloth that will act like a filter and keep your shock shafts very clean, I only have to rebuild like once a year at best. A 50' roll will cost you about three bucks, and comes in a variety of colors including neon green and pink.

I even use it to wrap up my receivers and motors, and no it doesn't overheat them, just keeps dirt out of the magnets.

Search Google for Co-Flex - you'll see the human application rolls, they look like they'd fit better without trimming, and some of them even come in smiley face patterns! haha!

See it in action here:

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

As you can see I'm still running Tekins (I have three backups) but I'd look at Novaks if it were me, and I'd also stay away from Futaba ESC's. I like their radios and servos but every Futaba ESC I saw was a dead one. :D

[RCB3]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Well welcome aboard, the 10T still rocks the Casbah. :D Is it your camera angle or does that thing have 0º toe-in in the rear? Doesn't it get squirrely on you in straights?

I'd lose the stock tires and put the Pro-Line Edge's on it, but it's all good, damn the plastic chassis and rock on 10T! :D

If you remember the very first ones came out with big lugged stagger ribs and a skinny set. I still race mine and won't give it up for a new one!!:D

[Fritz57]

For the pinion and spur configuration I would like to have better acceleration over top end so if I undestand things right it would be good to have a a 15 pinion mated to an 89 spur? Also are there brands you recommend for the gears?

Thanks again,
Fred

[Longarm500]

Originally posted by Fritz57
For the pinion and spur configuration I would like to have better acceleration over top end so if I undestand things right it would be good to have a a 15 pinion mated to an 89 spur? Also are there brands you recommend for the gears?

Thanks again,
Fred

I always used Robinson racing gears. Good stuff. Don't know what else is out there nowadays.

[SteveK]

I pretty much only have Kimbrough spur gears, the cheap black ones, and the cheap Robinson pinion gears.

Robinson makes spur gears as well, but they are about $2-3 more per gear than the Kimbrough ones. Kimbrough also makes some composite pinions with a metal sleeve for the screw that look interesting. I don't know that I would try them in an 'open' tranny without a gear cover, but they might work well.

I have heard it is better to use a pinion and spur from the same company, supposedly so the mesh is better, but I don't know what difference that really makes.

I have an HPI car with a very nice spur and pinion, so they might not be a bad way to go if you can find them.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Fritz57
... a 15 pinion mated to an 89 spur?....

Welcome aboard Fritz. That's actually what I use, and additionally doesn't bog down the motor so it overheats. For a modified motor, I'll even go down to a 13 or 14, when I get on pavement I'll seldom go over a 17.

[TurboFC3S]

So is there anywhere to still get parts for a 10T? I just got one off Ebay, and it needs a few things. Just wondering, I've been searching but can't find much.

And what all from the 10GT is compatable with the 10T?

[rocknbil]

What you can't find on TowerHobbies or eBay you can contact Associated directly and get from them.

As far as the GT . . . I haven't sized them up but most parts will work . . . holding the two side by side right now and taking measurements . . . rear A-Arms are different but look like they'll fit, width and length, you'd have to swap sides so shock mounts face forward . . . MIP CVD axles are the same . . . entire front end looks the same but with different steering cranks . . . front tubes same . . . rear camber links are shorter, but all the front ones same, shocks and wheels same . . .transmission case is different, and has a slightly larger diff gear, but you could spin it around and adapt it for a lower final drive . . . I **think** the slipper unit is the same, but seem to recall a bigger pad, so it might not be . . . rear suspension mounts are definately different. 'd still track down the original parts.

[SteveK]

Basically here is what's different between the trucks from the beginning: Main chassis, tranny, rear arm mounts, bulkhead, and shock tower. The later GTs used the shorter RC10 and T2 bellcranks but you can fit them to the 10T if you countersink the front-most holes in the front chassis plate.

The rear arms, shocks, dogbones/universals, axle carriers, and the entire front end are the same on all the trucks. The GT now has the T2 suspension arms, which are the same basic dimensions as the old 10T arms.

[TurboFC3S]

So you think these two items could be made to fit relatively easily?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3171815024&category=19168&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3171815025&category=19168&rd=1

[rocknbil]

Yes on the front, except for the steering bellcranks unless you want to mod it like Steve says, and NO on the rear end, or at least, you'd throw a lot away. The GT Shock tower, tranny brace, and bulkhead are all different. About all you'd use there, I think, are the A-arms, hinge pins, and screws - and the original GT A-arms are definately different, even if they WILL fit.

And besides that, a simple MUST-HAVE for this and any AE truck in the rear is the MIP CVD axles, less play and wear on the outdrives, and they don't fall out (I've personally never had doggies fall out but a lot of people complain about it.)

Here - this is a fairly good side-by-side of our 10T's and GT's, scroll to the bottom and look at the enlargements, pay particular attention to how the rear is set up.

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[TurboFC3S]

Hey, great info ... thanks!

So does anyone know where I can get a new chassis for a decent price? Does anyone still sell an upgrade? Or is Ebay my only real option?

My dilema is, I got this truck of Ebay. And when I add up what it will cost to get it how I want it, why not just buy a new T4 that's race worthy? Me, being old-school, I like old-school. But not if it doesn't make any sense. I don't see any reason why an orignal 10T couldn't hang with a T4 if done well and equal electronics. Trucks haven't changed much, comapred to Touring cars.

Knowing that front end stuff will fit helps. Are the rear toe blocks still available anywhere? Mine came with 3 degree blocks only.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by TurboFC3S
... I like old-school....

That's why we're here. :D Browse back a few pages, check out the comments on chassis flex - and what you can do to limit it. Once you limit the axial flex on the 10T it is a completely different animal.

People will argue this till sundown, but I've HAD T2's, t3's. I sold them all, they just didn't have the characteristics of the 10T, and there's nothing like smoking someone's new truck with an old "vintage racer." :D

As for your quest for parts, they indeed come and go on eBay, from time to time I see new or near-new parts for the 10T there. Like I said - email AE, http://www.teamassociated.com, if you can't find what you need they will tell you if they still have the parts and you can order them right form their site, done it myself.

I **think** the T2 rear suspension blocks will work on the original - see SteveK's previous post.

[fasteddie9111]

hi,
i was wondering what are your guy's opinion on the rc10t or t2 for bashing and maybe some track time, no racing. I have a whole bunch of rc10gt parts, and it would be fairly easy to make an rc10t2, i think. The rc10t2 would be fairly easy to find parts for and relatively inexpensive to setup. However, i have been looking at 4wd buggies and the acceleration and speed of those things sounds impressive. So what do you guys think? thanks.

[SteveK]

A truck is better than a buggy for bashing pretty much every time: They are wider so they are harder to flip, and have larger tires and more ground clearance so they can go over more obstacles. The 10T is still a great basher, and could probably be raced at a lot of tracks without giving up too much.

I was going to race again a few summers ago, and asked the locals what I should do: Rebuild my 10T, replace it with an Evader, or spend a little more and get a T3. They all said the 10T would work great, but then common sense got the best of me and I never raced (The track was the closest off-road circuit and was still 60 minutes away, and I'd be driving 2+ hours round trip to race for 20 minutes).

[HyperBuzzin]

That's the same way it is for me, Steve.
When I first got into RC's there were atleast 3 tracks somewhat close by. My first RC was a Losi converted Stadium truck. Didn't do too bad. But then I got the 10T and things picked up for me. Once i started entering more races, the local tracks started closin' down :mad: .

Now there's not really any worth going to without spendin' a good bit of time drivin'.

I would still be quite confident with entering the 10T in a racehttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/auto/drive1.gif
or http://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_b.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_a.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_s.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_h.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_i.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc3/smilie_n.gifhttp://www.addis-welt.de/smilie/smilie/abc2/gif_24.gif it

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by SteveK
.. I'd be driving 2+ hours round trip to race for 20 minutes...

You say it like that's a BAD thing.



:D


I live in Oregon, EVERYTHING's a long drive.

[xj sean]

I originally had one back in 93 or so and foolishly sold it.

I just got another one off ebay a few months ago and ALMOST have it ready to run again. It runs, just need a few more pieces and a rear driveshaft, the one on it is bent (anyone got one?)

I'll post some pics this afternoon

[rocknbil]

Weclome aboard, #1 upgrade for the 10T - a set of MIP CVD's replaces the whole shot.

[keebler]

is the tekin speed control (tsc408)..
a very good speed control? does it have reverse?...:confused: ...:D....
i'm into nitro mainly and i just bought
this off ebay,my first electric truck..:confused:.........thanx

[SteveK]

Keebler-

If I remember correctly, the Tekin 408 is like their version of Novak's Explorer: A good budget ESC for stock and mild modified motors. It doesn't have reverse, just forward and brakes.

[rocknbil]

^ ^ I will check my manuals tonight, but I'm pretty sure Steve's memory serves him better than mine. I run strictly Tekins, still, and have spares - and I'm pretty sure the racing ESC's started at the 410's. You can't lose with a Tekin though, they are GREAT speed controls. More later. By the way welcome aboard. :D

[keebler]

thanx i'm glad to hear it is a pretty good speed control...the last time i had a electric truck it was a BIG BEAR with a manual speed control ...lol it kept burning up....back in the mid 80's....:eek:

[rocknbil]

keebler here's your specs on the 408, which is the 408 Sport, it's labeled as the "Entry Level" ESC, but still has the frequency regenerating FET's.

4-8 cells
1.6"X1.5"X.6"
.004 ohm resistance (410K's start at .0015, still that's not much)
250 amp average, 600 amp peak
5.0 BEC voltage (for your receiver)
50 amps braking (sufficient, 410K's start at 100 amps reverse)
no "torque control" setting, a feature on most Tekins
15 gauge wires, probably long gone


The sales pitch paragraph says it can handle 1050 amps peak though. (???) Doesn't say anything about reversable, which is good.

The pic here shows a fuse link cover - you should see a little plastic "box," probably also long gone, so a square hole to the right-top in front of the heat sinks, inside that hole are two prongs that are sticking up and covered with solder. If the unit shorts out, the solder melts, acting as a fuse.

It also has a neutral and throttle endpoint adjustment right on the ESC.

Flyer's dated fall 1993. God I feel old. :D

[keebler]

here is a pic of the tekin , if it shows up
it is a tekin "sport"
could not attach a jpeg pic????????:mad:

you can search this number on ebay and
see it... 3174296776

[rocknbil]

Yeah, the 408 is actually 408S, the Tekin Sport. Light blue case, right? (looking now. :D ) Yeah that's the one, specs above.

Edit - good price too! I'd have paid $100+ for it. You're getting all white parts there, you can't get them any more they only re-man them in black. Original tires, but it looks like they swapped out the shocks, the original T had goldies - not that that's a bad thing, the shocks today are pretty much the same, except for the "unobtanium" shafts and teflon coating instead of anodized gold (which I think those might be.)

First upgrades would be a set of bearing throughout (he says bushings) and dump the dogbones for some MIP CVD's, and the SP 148 has to go - you need a high speed servo to get some good strong cornering out of it. Those you could all add later though, but nice find! :D

EDIT AGAIN! Looks like it's hardly been used at all, nice truck! Most of the ones I manage to get are thrashed and need LOTS of TLC.

[keebler]

thanx for all the info...i wasn't sure what one would cost (used..rc10t) but, i was hoping this was not a bad price..i will get it around the 26th. so UPS says..lol
thanx again..:)

[halfpint33]

A friend of mine is selling me his old rc10t.Cheap I might add:) The only thing I need to get it going is the tranny and dogbones.Will a tranny from a t3 drop in,or do I have to do some modifications.

If not,do you have any suggestions on what to use?

Thanks,
Gary

[Budman_222]

I put a tranny out of a t3 in my rc10 buggy chassis. the t3 tranny mounts differently. it has 2 screws on the bottom and the other 2 on a little bracket bar on the top front. a b2 or t2 tranny or an old rc10 stealth tranny would be a better choice. you could get the t3 tranny in there and working if you had to, though. just a little fabrication.


Bud

[BearWash]

Hi, I am usually on the electric helicopter forums.

I just dragged my Team Car carton out of the closet. Assembled the kit in '92 or '93, but never installed the radio and, of course, never ran it.

What I have to do is decide whether to keep it or sell it. I was surprised to see parts still on Ebay and some interest in these cars. Personally, I like the looks and the engineering better than the new cars. Looks like there is a bell crank steering update which would be worthwhile.

Is there interest out there in a kit like this?

Steve

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Hell yeah. :D Check out the original RC 10 forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=76472), lotsa RC 10 followers.

[BearWash]

Looks like the last post there was in 2002?

Anyway, I'll put an ad together for the for sale section or maybe Ebay.

I think the Team Car is great but right now the money would be real handy for a heli kit.

[rocknbil]

No, that link landed you on the first page:

02-16-2004 06:45 PM

Go to the Team Associated Forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=304), them look for the Original 10T thread - you can click "Last Page" from there.

[rocknbil]

[edit] oops sorry

[keebler]

does ne one know why the right rear wheel is harder to turn
than the left one? wen i pick up the rearend(and pull the throttle) the right wheel does not want to turn as easy as the left one?
does it sound like the diff is messed up? it was running good then all of a sudden it seemed to tighten up?
it is the rc10t............:confused:

[keebler]

:D ...I guess I can say never mind,,,,,,I found out that

one of the wheel bearings was froze up :mad:

so that is a little cheaper than a tranny or what ever...

(whew!)..:cool:

[SteveK]

I just saw that, I was going to guess it was a problem in the wheel, not the tranny. If you are using the old-style 1/4 x 3/8 bearings, consider switching to the larger RPM bearings and carriers (If you want to keep your old axles and wheels) or to the newer 3/16 x 3/8 bearings and axles (Requires new wheels).

[keebler]

yup 1/4 x 3/8...is wat 's in it...
ill try the rpm's probaly thanx.

[SteveK]

Yeah, those skinny little bearings were OK, sort of, in the buggies, just just couldn't hack it in the trucks. RPM came out with their set to cure that, but then Associated went to the 3/16" rear axles in the B2 and T2. You need to change wheels as well, but they seem to be just as durable.

You might want to consider using the newer axles and bearings, as there seems to be a wider selection of wheels for the truck. Cost is similar besides that: 4 bearings and CVD/dogbone axles are about as much the RPM set.

[rob_b]

i finally got the T running, well is been going for a while now but i havent had time to take pictures. i know that the front tower is a little different, it was the first prototype before i made everything out of fiberglass. after landing upside down and backwards the back tower cracked so i had to put the aluminum towers back on. i hope to head out to the track today and test out those outside shock positions. all of the geometry has changed but a near stock shock setup works well.