Usa-1 Nitro forum

[gixxer]

Anything you want to talk about the Usa-1 Nitro.

I've added 1/8 shocks, harden steel gears, sway bar, 16T clutch bell, 3shoe clutch, and ball bearings.

[gixxer]

Here's a what the truck looks like with the cover off.

[jayjayy]

can you please have a closed up pic of the counter gears area?.. i am kinda interested with the hardened steel gears...
my buddy's USA-1 kept chewing up counter gears.....
or even melting the plastic side of the counter gears..:(

[jayjayy]

another pic of the melted counter gear...:mad:

[gixxer]

I dont think they sell the counter gear steel. I was talking about the gearbox. I can't see why would they strip so easily unless he didn't space the gears properly and/or shim the counter gear.

Hope this helps.

[jayjayy]

thanks for the info, .. i will have a check on my buddy's crusher..:)

[NXT GP NOVA]

Hey nice to see someone shares the love for the nitr USA1. Mine has a solid blacked out body with the chrome, it used to be just like on the box but after a year of hard runs and flips, I just painted it solid black. Its makes it more menacing. Which engine are you running I can't tell, I used to run a OS RG21 before the crank snapped but im about to order another. Im about to order the MP6 from shocks too, they are 3.5 inchs long 80 bux for the kit. Ill post pics when I find them

[TUCRACEMAN]

Hey ya'll. At my school we have a RC car club and one of our members has a USA-1. We recently got it to run and after just a bit of playing around we stripped one of the gears. Now, this truck was not built by a person who knew what he was doing so there's a lot of weird custom parts installed on the truck. So I was wondering if this gear is actually a part of this truck or some weird add on that this dudes father did to make the truck work with an airplane .21.
~Dave

[RCtinkerman]

Gixxer, that is a sweet looking truck. I've always wanted one of those, but the price always held me back.:(

[gixxer]

Which engine are you running I can't tell,

I'm running an old O.S. Rx-b engine that came from my old inferno which most of it is on the truck. I'll just run it till it dies and perhaps get a hyper.21 or something b/c of pullstart and convientence. I might decide to put my v01b in the usa-1, after i check out the amt of torque the engine will produce.

RCtinkerman, this truck is very expensive and really not worth the money. It comes with crap shocks, aluminum gear in the box, and bushings. It's not work getting but i bought mine "missing parts" form tower for $163 and took most parts off and retired my inferno. I have to buy one more pair of long 1/8 shocks from the LHS and they charged my like $30 which is not all that bad since they were the gold out-dated shocks and they had a pair left. However i've alway loved the way this truck looks so i never run the truck with the cover you see here b/c the light and etc will break off. I run a crappy cover for bashing.

[jayjayy]

TUCRACEMAN, that's the counter gear you shown on the pic... it is only found on the USA-1 chassis and it is used to lower the overall gear ratio to 23.**:1 (couldn't recall the exact number) which will give you a lotta of torque but suffers in top end speed....
good for crawling over obstacles...
and sure this truck is fun to see and play while going over everything.....

hope this helped....:cool:

[TUCRACEMAN]

Thanks Jay. that helped a lot. Now, does anyone know the part number?
~Dave

[gixxer]

It should be in www.kyosho.com This is from tower. Is this it???

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXU615&P=7

Double check b4 your friend order one.

[NXT GP NOVA]

When you order gears, you have to buy the main gear and counter gear as a pair, its wierd. Also if your stripping idler gears, the mesh is set wrong or you have the gear shimmed wrong. I have had my USA1 nitro for over 3 years now and i have yet to strip an idler, even tho both bearings have went out on me. Make sure that e-clip stays on with that washer, if not you will lose both bearings and the gear will tear up the main gear.

[Walter]

I just bought one for $60.00 Canadian with a Futaba radio and 6 port Rossi !! Thats like $40 US. It has hardly been used. Does anyone make an all steel counter/spur gear set up?

[big_worm]

hey man, how high is it from the bottom of the chassis to the ground? how fast is it? is it hard to build? sorry for all the questions but i want a nitro crusher and i just wants some info, thanks:) :D

[gixxer]

I'm not sure how high it is but it's high enought not to flip.

The truck is built better than most trucks in durability sense but it's simply not worth buying. The reason i bought mine is because i bought it a tower scratch and dents and have goodies on my orginal inferno "retired" to transfer over. The truck came with no screws but it only cost $160 somthing. If bought new you get no sway bar. cheap nonworking black shocks, cheap gears which strips and no bearing except for trans! When you add up the mods it's not worth it.

If i were you i'd just wait for the kyosho's new .21 truck.

[Bluetoad]

here's my brothers USA-1 nitro.

1. Stock Kyosho.21 pullstart replaced with OS Max V99B Buggy engine.
2. 6.0V RX battery.
3. Kyosho tuned pipe.
4. Hitec 645mg servos.
5. Counter gears removed & main plastic drive gear replaced with metal alternative driven direct from engine - front and rear diffs flipped 180 degrees as a result (very easy to do) unless of course you like going backwards?!!.
6. Ofna MP wheels and tyres - Kyosho originals perished after being exposed to fuel residue whilst running.
7. All bushings replaced with sealrd bearing.
8. Parma Dodge Ram body.

http://www.geovisionlimited.com/usa1/side2.jpg

http://www.geovisionlimited.com/usa1/inside2.jpg

heres the direct drive tranny

http://www.geovisionlimited.com/usa1/tranny.jpg

[gixxer]

Wow, that must be fast. I have that pipe on my mp6 and want to get the same one for my USA-1. "MUCH QUIETER"!

What clutch bell is that? Does the truck pull it? I have tried running the inferno with usa1 wheel and the engine couldn't pull it. No acceleration what so ever. Anyway if it does i'd bet it'll be fast. Is there any problem with flipping the gear box? I'm thinking about it.

[Bluetoad]

hi Gixxer

glad you like it.

it's a heavy beast but it moves - clocked it post 40mph - but ran out of space.

It pulls pretty well but lowering the gearing would help - I'll ask my bro what the clutch bell is.

flipping the trannys and diffs is easy took my brother about 2hrs of fiddling. It cuts out all the plastic and makes it much beefier in the drivetrain.

It hit me once and knocked me over - luckily there was a filled sports bag between me and the truck - so only a few bruises and a load of laughs.

see ya

bt

[jeepdude_1]

I just bought a new one form Tower hobbies, It will be here next tuesday. Do you have any sugestions for putting it together ?:p

[saiyanmanicomio]

I Had a USA1 Nitro Crusher and The Only Problem That I have Is That The Chassis Is To Flexible.

[saiyanmanicomio]

I See in Kyosho Website a Secial Main Chassis The Part Number Is Kyoc4514 (BSW-07). I Searched For That Part In Many Sites, But I Can't Find it. Somebody Can Help?

[ecatbox]

probably discontinued a long time ago, i can't find any reference to it...you might find one on ebay with some luck

here is an excellent site for burns and USA1 info that i stumbled across a while back:

www.rcwizard.com/rczone/usa1.htm

p.s. jeepdude, don't forget the loctite...all the little drive cup setscrews and especially the screw that holds the ball end on the carb...

[saiyanmanicomio]

Thanks for the help Bukkake. I find that the chassis uses a torque rod that adjusts the chassis, But the rod end twist causing the chassis to twist too. I am going to buy a new one with special rod ends stronger than the stock ones.



And for you jeepdude, when you build up the truck try to shim well the differentials. If you do not shim well the differentials they will strip in no time.

[crypt]

hi guys, in www.kyosho.it it´s available this chassis, i have one now and it´s very strong, the only bad thing is that yoou have to do the holes for the countergear and open a window for the pull start if you´re using an engine with ps, the price is about 69 us $ (add the shipping costs, from italy to spain about six $), there goes a pic

[saiyanmanicomio]

Thanks you I was waiting for somebody to tell me something about that chassis, but why did you have to make the countergear holes and open a window for the pullstart if it is a optional chassis made for a USA1 Nitro Crusher.


Thanks you also for the link.I find that the web page is written in Italian .I live in Puerto Rico and I speak spanish that is familiar but I can't find the chassis.

[Unobjectionable]

it's actually an upgrade chassis for the burns (i think it also came stock on the turbo burns if you can find one of those)...the countergear is specific to the nitro crusher, so no holes...and there weren't any pullstart engines when it came out originally

p.s. i can't find it on kyosho.it either, i tried searching on both parts numbers ("RICERCHE" at the top there) ...they do have some other cool goodies though

[saiyanmanicomio]

That upgrade chassis is made of a stronger aluminum or titanium? :confused:

[saiyanmanicomio]

Hey crypt do you made or buy the wheelie bar? If you made them you can tell me how.:cool:

[crypt]

it´s made of aluminium, well the wheelie bar is homemade, i did it with a frame of 1 or 2mm (i can´t remember) of iron wire in the way you can see it, and a covering of plastic resin like uses the dental laboratory technicians for the base trays (it´s come in polymer and monomer , you have to mix it ) it´s not too hard to do, but you must have something like a dremel to polish it,and two airplane wheels and a brass tube for wheel mounting of 6mm diameter and 4 cm large, ah you can see more pics in http://communities.msn.es/monstertruckingusa1

[saiyanmanicomio]

How many upgrade have you made for this truck? I see that the servo saver is mounted on the left and the base of the engine mount is one piece. where did you get it?

[crypt]

well, the servo saver is the optional ball beared for the burns/ turbo burns, yes, it´s mounted in this way because it have a 1/4 scale (20kg) servo (the black thing you can see on the aluminium radio plate, also homemade) and it´s the best way to put it, in the right the servo arm got contact with something (however i can´t remember with ), also i have duratrax competition shocks (but it leaks a lot) i recommended 1/8 shocks, you only need to mount four of these, diff bevel gear upgraded to hardened gears from turbo burns, the engine mount is from nuova faor (for the kyosho mp6) but you have to eliminate the rear "legs" of the crank, where the engine contact with the chassis (even if you have the gs21r) if you have other engine this isn´t it necessary, ah you have to do two holes in each of the two engine mounts beside the crank. also i have the cvec power system pipe for .21 , i´m thinking in mount the steel center diff gear (i have one but never try it), because i have never slip a gear. 1800ma 5 cell battery (necessary for the servo). the radio box is made from a storage box for dental prothesis, but you can use some you have, of course ballbearings everywhere in the car, i´ll put alu wheels from zoom wheels, and the xtm 24.7 engine (if i can find it)well i think it´s all my lil rebel have on it.


hola si sabes español, te lo escribo asi por que me expreso mejor (soy de españa) la bancada del motor es de nuova faor (la del kyosho mp6) solo tienes que eliminar las patas traseras donde se atornilla al chasis, ya que si dejas la delanteras no tendras problemas para que la campana de embrague contacte con la corona, tambien tendras que hacerle dos agujeros en cada aleta que hay a cada lado del carter del motor (todo esto si tienes el gs21r, si no no hace falta. el salvaservos es el opcional con rodamientos para el burns turbo burns, esta montado asi porque el brazo del servo rozaba con algo si lo hubiese montado como el original, el servo, esa caja negra que ves en la bandeja de radio es de escala 1/4 (20 kg). Escape de la marca cvec para motores tipo 0.21, tambien estoy pensando en montarle la corona del diferencial central de metal (la tengo pero nunca he roto ninguna corona ni piñon, aparte de que pierdes fuerza). la bateria del receptor de 1800ma y 5 elementos, necesaria para el servo. amortiguadores duratrax competition long (tienen muchas perdidas, asi que recomiendo ponerle directamente unos de escala 1/8, solo cuatro , uno a cada rueda) tambien todas las coronas de los diferenciales delantero y trasero extraduras del burns/tb, rodamientos en todos los puntos del coche. la caja de radio esta hecha de una para guardar dentaduras postizas, pero te sirve cualquiera de plastico flexible que tengas por ahi. y proximamente le pondre las ruedas de aluminio de zoom wheels, y el motor de xtm, el 24.7 si lo encuentro. bueno eso es todo, creo

[saiyanmanicomio]

Yo tambien escribo mejor en espanol. Se escribir en ingles, pero necesito mucho la ayuda de mi mama con los verbos. Las mejoras que yo le echo a mi USA1 son los amortiguadores de Associated para la T-MAXX, pero que le sirven como si fueran de fabrica. A esos amortiguadores le puse los esprines rojos de Associated que son los mas duros. Tambien le puse una campana (clutch bell) de 15 dientes para mas velocidad. Yo estaba buscando una unidad solida para remplazar el differencial del centro pero no la e encontrado. Le puse un servo de Hitec de 110oz para el sistema de viraje, pero el plato del radio es de plastico y es muy flexible. Para arreglar esto compre un poste de radio de Ofna y lo atache al chassis. Tambien compre un tanque de gasolina de un 1/8 buggy de Ofna. Estaba ahorrando para comprarme un sistema de escape de cvec como el tuyo pero voy a comprarme una sistema de paris racing Al 650. Y mi USA1 se mueve por un OS MAX 21RG que lo compre en combo con el Kit. Tambien tiene adapters de 17mm los cuales me permiten montarles ruedas de Ofna y de Thunder Tiger. Y por ultimo tiene el kit de rodamientos de DuraTrax y en el salva servos tiene dos rods para menos flexibilidad. Cuando consiga una camara te enviare fotos de mi USA1. Gracias y por favor contestame luego.:cool:

[crypt]

voy a escribir en ingles y en español para que la gente no se enfade, ayer escribi a zoom wheels para ver si tenian las ruedas que te comente, pero aun no han escrito, salen un poco caras, unos 132US$, aparte el envio, tambien escribi a tower hobbies para ver si tenian el motor de xtm pero nada, y mira que esos suelen contestar casi de inmediato, pero bueno. con respecto a esos amortiguadores segun he leido son bastante buenos, ahora me arrepiento de no haber comprado esos, pero fallando se aprende, si compro otros optare por los 1/8, para bloquear el diferencial central se puede hacer apretando el tornillito que lleva el diferendial, segun he leido por ahi, pero yo no lo he probado, puedes ponerlo mas duro tambien rellenandolo de grasa de silicona de una densidad alta, yo llevo 10000 , pero existen de mayor densidad, yo voy a intentar hacerle uno fijo con la corona central metalica que tengo si lo consigo ya pondre fotos. saludos


i´m going to write in english and spanish because i don´t wan´t that the other people get molest, yesterday i wrote to zoom wheels to ask if they keep in stock the wheels i did say to you, but there´s no answer yet, it´s a little expensive, about 132 US$, and you must to add the shipping charges, also i did write to tower hobbies asking about the xtm engine, but nothing, about those shocks, i had read that are a good choice,now i´m regreting about it but losing i learn, if i do buy another, those will be 1/8 scale. to lock the center diff you can tighten the little screw in the diff case, but i never had try it, also you can fill it with high density silicone grease (i have on my diff 10000) but there are highest density available. i´ll try to make one with the metal spur gear that i have, i get in on the right way i´ll post pics.

[saiyanmanicomio]

I gonna write only in English unless I don't understand some thing, because it is to much to translate. Is that your USA1? My USA1 got a Parma GraveDigger. I painted it just the same as the real one. It is easy, the body comes with all the stickers.

[crypt]

yes, this is my car, this pic is taken before i did all the hop ups, except the body, this body is from proline, early fifties chevy, the body includes the stick flames, the rebel flags and the other rebel stickers are from autographics, tomorrow i´ll going to start my new locked center diff project, i hava been thinking about how to do it and i can see it, but i hope this idea will be easy to translate it to the reality, i´ll keep you in news, ok!, other pic:

[crypt]

hey, you have to send an email to kyosho italy, to ask about the chassis, they don´t have it in the web page.

[saiyanmanicomio]

How much would the shipping cost? Remember, I live in Puerto Rico and the hobbyshop is in Italy.

[zzest]

hi guys you've got there real cool trucks! i'm a fan of the USA-1 too. I've heard that the USA-1 is discontinued? and i don't see it in the Kyosho 2002 catalogue anymore...

here's my truck: http://www.zzestcars.homestead.com/USA1_New.html

[saiyanmanicomio]

Hey zzest, how many upgrades you have made to the truck? What do you think about this truck?


I love my truck the only problem is to find upgrade. For the replacement I look in the TowerHobbies parts express.

[crypt]

nice car, i like this colour mixture, about if the a1 is discontinued, i´m thinking that yes, i hope there are many replacement parts to supply to everyone of us, about the shipping cost to Puerto Rico, it maybe is the same like US to spain, about 20 US$ but i´m not sure, the best way to know it, is writing to kyosho italy. i hop this help you.

[zzest]

saiyanmanicomio: my truck's pratically stock... as there're close to almost 'nil' aftermarkets stuff for USA-1, at least here in Malaysia where i live... don't really see any from Tower Hobbies neither. but it's an awesome truck even in stock form as u may agree!!

[crypt]

yes, really i agree, seeing the vids from other trucks and looking to my a1 really i do love the a1, ah! today i´ve buy the 1/8 scale shocks from thunder tiger (the optionals for the eb4 buggi) and tomorrow i hope to fit it in, and i had put the steel main diff gear, this must be faster, but i couldn´t probe it because the engine compression has gone, i have to buy a new cilinder and piston :mad: next friday i´ll have it in my lhs, well that´s all on a full troubles weekend i hpe next will be better. tomorrow i´ll post some pics of the shocks and the new diff.

[NXT GP NOVA]

My usa1 is about 5 years old, and I am just starting to wear out ring and pinions. I have the MP6 4.3 inche shocks on it now. I must say these shocks are a work of art and can handle the truck. I am running 80W90 oil in them and my truck feel great. I am runnin a old OS RG .21 that is still running strong after needing a crank.:) Has one had the problem with your rims getting loose and wobbly from the power? I am currently looking to make aluminum arms for the truck and diff housings to fortify my truck for dual 21s.
Here is a pic of my shocks

[crypt]

yes, i really would like to put alu diff housings but i can´t find it, i don´t know if some of the mp6 will fit it and also i didn´t find any in alu for the mp5/6 or burns/tb about the a arms i had read that there is other from a car of kyosho (i think) that would fit, but, however i can´t find those arms.

[Unobjectionable]

you could also use inferno a-arms and front carriers, this is how the turbo burns was set up...lets see if i can make a chart

---------------stock burns/usa1-----------turbo burns/inferno

lower a-arms---------BS-6-------------------------BS-56
upper a-arms---------BS-7-------------------------BS-7
knuckles*-------------BS-19------------------------BS-19
front carriers*--------BS-8-------------------------BS-57
rear carriers-----------BS-9-------------------------BS-9

they work out to the same width, the same BS-20 universals fit from the burns up to the MP-6...the inferno arms are physically longer at the outside ends, and the front carriers have the hole offset to the outside to match...getting hard to find the BS-20s now though, tower doesn't even list them anymore...and yes, all burns (usa1) and inferno based cars (landmax1) were discontinued this year...the parts will no doubt be available for quite a while longer, but i bet they will raise the prices..eheh

*note you can also use MP-5/6 or 7.5 steering knuckles on the inferno arms if you also get the front carriers and the little steel collars to fit them...on the MP-5 and up, the knuckles attach with 3mm screws and the collars instead of the kingpins...the current setup for my little mad max project is using the following:

BS-56 arms
IF-145 7.5 front hub carriers
IF-7 the steel collars (same on MP-5/6/7.5)
fioroni front knuckles (likewise, stock is IF-6) these are supposed to be almost indestructible, made from 7075 alloy

you could also set it up to use the MP-6 hub system, i think that was 19mm with a nut instead of the bolt...the 7.5 17mm hubs would also fit, but would of course require new rims...the yellow and orange usa1 pictured earlier in the thread appears to be using either the ofna or kyosho hubs...either way, it might help with the wheels working loose if that is a problem

i will see if i can get a pic comparing the burns/inferno suspensions this week, it all makes more sense with some visuals

[crypt]

thanks, i´ll go to my lhs to ask for it, do you know about aluminium center diff housing that fits to the a1

[Unobjectionable]

i'm not sure which part you mean, you want an aluminum diff case or an aluminum mount for the center diff?


you can still get these at tower, but they are expensive ($130us)
http://***********/gp20/misc/bsw55.jpg

[crypt]

wohow!!!!!!!! that´s just i was looking for....... that´s really cool can you put the stock number, because i can´t see in the pic if that´s is 66, 65 or 55, well i´ll look for it using all the stock number i just put above and the car wich is made for?, hey i´m thinking that this isn´t a direct fit, so could you say me , if i have to do, all the modifications for it. THANKS THANKS THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

[Unobjectionable]

hehe no problema...i'm fairly sure it is a direct fit on the burns or A1, because the original part number is BSW-55 (BSW = turbo burns and inferno family), i believe they later changed it to GTW-6 when they started using it for the supereights and esprit/landmax...KYOC2831

i got this one new for about half price, from ebay...it's going in my landmax project, will look pretty when i polish it up...check out the sideways rear brake cam and calipers, very cool...it also has full bearings for the brake cams etc...very nicely engineered and built...

http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW-6-rear.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/GTW-6-front.jpg

[crypt]

yeah!! coooooooooooooool, did you try to fit it to the usa1? this 2 speed really cool, oops i forgot it, i have been asking to my lhs owner and the bsw 55 doesn´t appear in the catalog that he have, he´ll ask for it to the kyosho dealer here in spain, i hope they have almost one for me ;) , other thing he said to me is the here in granada (spain) my city are another monster truck, a MAD FORCE, but i don´t know who is the owner of this beast, i´ll aks to him, to meet the MF owner, and maybe...... have a race!!!!!
ps: i can´t find it at tower, i´ll try to find it with the other stock numbers. REALLY THANKS

[Unobjectionable]

heres towers link for it:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXT824&P=7

i don't have a usa1, always wanted one...my cars are all inferno based...but looking at pictures of the burns/a1 chassis, the rear part of the diff mount is offset just like it is on the inferno chassis, and it appears that the mount will fit...i have a feeling the turbo burns used the inferno diff mount (BS-102), but i can't verify this...and i don't think the special one would have had the BSW number if it didn't fit a burns

the two cars use different bulkheads etc, but they do use a LOT of the same parts (they are still using some burns parts on the 7.5!)...compare the pics and tell me what you think:

burns (stolen pic):

http://***********/gp20/misc/burns.jpg

inferno:

http://***********/gp20/misc/infernochassis.jpg

comparison shots i mentioned before, sorry they look so crappy...i will get some better ones later with a friends cam

burns setup on the left, inferno on the right...the inferno side looks longer because of the arm and carrier design...but they do work out to the same width

http://***********/gp20/misc/burnsvsinferno01.jpg
http://***********/gp20/misc/burnsvsinferno02..jpg

and yes, the mad force is very cool...i think with the 3 speed he may have you beat in the speed department though...ehehe

[crypt]

yes, i think it will fit, tomorrow i´ll going to the lhs to see if it is listed with the gtw6 s/n, surely, well i hope.

[Unobjectionable]

cool, give them that KYOC number, they should be able to look it up with that

[crypt]

the baddest news has arrive, no they don´t have it in stock and the production is over, i´ll try to find it in other shops, even if exist in stock. i´ll have you adviced, thanks

[R6905]

hey... can you still get nitro usa-1's? i want one sooo bad.. cause they are a really cool looking truck... how much are they? what kind of engine do they have? and what is their top speeds?



Brandon

[Unobjectionable]

tower has them at $450 with the older bluehead GS-21 engine, $300 without...for that much you could just buy a new mad force...though you may find a better deal later, when tower closes the USA1s out, or on a used truck

i understand they are not particularly fast stock, due to the counter gear arrangement they are geared very low...

crypt - good luck on your search, if you wanted to get really crazy, you could make your own chassis (5mm aluminum would be nice) and use one of the fioroni MP-5/6 diff mounts or something...eheh

[R6905]

450? dang i could get a t-maxx for that... i just liked the looks of the usa 1 damn... not for that price lol.....



Brandon

[Unobjectionable]

yeah exactly, for $450 i would take a mad force...but for $200-250 or so (what used USA1s generally go for on ebay, ready to go) its not a bad deal for a budget project or something

[R6905]

i think ill just get the body and put it on my t-maxx


brandon

[crypt]

about the chassi i have the burns special, only 3mm, but really strong (i was hard to cut to make bigger some windows for the pull start and the center diff) i´m very happy with it, about the fioroni diff mount looks sweet, but first i have to buy the center diff mount, i wrote yesterday to kyosho italy, and hope they have it in stock (in this way i don´t have to use the credit card) if they don´t have it i´ll buy it at tower, however!!!!!

[Unobjectionable]

eheh sounds good...i went back and looked at the pictures of your truck again, very nice...i notice you have the same bellcranks as i do (BSW-86) so i guess those are interchangable too...kyosho is very clever that way ehehehh...but where did you get that purple motor mount plate? very cool and i've never seen anything quite like it... (thinking new era but i don't see it on their site)

R6 - that'll probably work...the tmaxx doesn't really compare otherwise though, the USA1 is a good bit bigger and built like a tank...compare the wheelbase etc before you buy anything, though the wheelbase on the body should be a little shorter than the actual wheelbase, to look scale...heres the part numbers for you, or anyone else who needs them

KYOC2399 BS-82 Body Set USA-1
KYOC2016 DA-30 Accessory Set USA-1 (the chrome plastic stuff etc)

[R6905]

ok thanks... i want to buy the usa 1 but i want a t-maxx a lil more...whats the usa1's top speed?



Brandon

[Unobjectionable]

couldn't tell ya, i don't have one...my interest in the truck is mainly which parts i can use from it for my freakmonsta

but i would guess maybe 15-20mph wound out

[Unobjectionable]

p.s. the mad force has a 3 speed and does like 40...and when you turn at that speed it will do cartwheels

the tmaxx is a 10th scale monster truck, USA1 and mad force are more 8th scale, much beefier design with the .21 designed in...see if you can find a pic with both...if i were looking to buy a new kit, my money would be on the mad force

scroll down a little bit on this page, comparison pics of tmaxx and MF, courtesy of PITSTAIN:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73926&perpage=40&pagenumber=5

[crypt]

the engine mount is for the mp5/6 from nuova faor, it´s comes with the two mounts for the each side of the engine too, if i can, i´ll post the stock number, i got the info card in the trash, so i´ll go to my lhs to ask for it. i don´t have news from kyosho italy, so i´m thinking they are looking for the center diff mount, I hope!

[Unobjectionable]

will it be cheaper from kyosho.it?

thank you for the info, i think i found the engine mount...so it is really a general substitute for BS-25, but stronger and muy bella! eheh

NVF K12 ADJ HEAT SINK ENGINE MOUNT, MP

edit* i smacked myself on the head for not thinking nuova when i saw the purple, thanks again

[crypt]

definytively no, in italy it´s much expensive about 82 $ more, so i´ll wait and when i need something else i´ll buy it to tower.

[maxinoda]

I want to buy a kyosho usa 1, there are some question, can it move backward? if it can't, are there a way to make it move backward? how much it' cost? please help me..

[jeepdude_1]

No, They don't have reverse.... I don't think you can make them either... Someone was asking how fast they would go, I know that mine with an OS RG .21 will do faster than 15 or 20 mph...And someone said that they would rather get a T-Maxx if they would have to pay that much, Every time I take my maxx out it gets broke, I have never broke my nitro crusher yet ( much stronger ) I hope I didint jinks me LOL :D ;) :p

[maxinoda]

what do u thing the best monster truck? usa-1, terra-crusher, mad force, megaforce, t-maxx for beginner? my friend suggest me to buy t-maxx, terra crusher(but in my country is not available) or mega force because it can move backward.. but I want 1/8.. so there are another suggest for me? my friend want to sell his usa-1 to me but cause' I know that it can't move backward, i dong want it anymore.. I want to ask some question, is it hard to control monster truck with just move forward(just for fun, not for race)?

[jeepdude_1]

I would say get a T-Maxx if you are just starting out, Easy to use and easy to work on and parts are easy to find...:D ;) :p

[crypt]

Really a rtr it´s easier to run but you don´t know your car, if you buy a kit, you have to assemble it (you must be too patient and read the instructions carefully), but you´ll know where goes everything, and if you break something (surely) you ´ll know how to disassemble it, but you have to buy engine (if you buy the USA1, it´s not recomended, first by the price, and second because it´s discontinued and you´ll have too many troubles to find replacement parts, or if you buy a mad force, i like this truck it´s really brand new monster, and surely there will be too much hop ups in a near future, and is the same price than a USA1, the engine comes with the kit) the radio, batteries, high torque servo, glow plug, fuel bottle, fuel filter... but you will have a good truck. About 1/8 or 1/10, really go for 1/8, i started with the USA1 and that wasn´t too hard to do, all the problems you have with a 1/8 you have with 1/10, but the 1/8 power rules... ok! ah some body can say you can put a .21 in a 1/10 but you´ll have to buy adapter kits, another engine... and speend too much money than buying directly one 1/8, so i recomend you 1/8 (MAd Force, Dominator...)
if you want reverse the only 1/8 with it is the Duratrax thunder Quake but i have no references about it. ah i think the Dominator (before Monster pirate) have a reverse option kit, but i´m not sure.

[zzest]

maxi: most nitro cars/trucks don't do reverse. only some newer models do. there shouldn't be any more difficult in driving one without reverse, except you may need to run to the truck once a while to pull it out of a corner when it gets stuck...

i don't know about jakarta, but in kuala lumpur it's almost impossible to find parts for the T-maxx but there are plenty of parts (including for the USA-1) here and in singapore.

so you may need to also consider the availability of parts and services at your location before deciding which truck to buy.

[zzest]

maxi: most nitro cars/trucks don't do reverse. only some newer models do. there shouldn't be any more difficult in driving one without reverse, except you may need to run to the truck once a while to pull it out of a corner when it gets stuck...

i don't know about jakarta, but in kuala lumpur it's almost impossible to find parts for the T-maxx but there are plenty of KYOSHO parts (including for the USA-1) here and in singapore.

so you may need to also consider the availability of parts and services at your location before deciding which truck to buy.

[gixxer]

Mine did past 30mph (16t bell). Well at least it's faster than a stock monster pirate. I was running an OS .21Rxb which i think it's dead now. My truck is posted on the first page.

I just ordered the OFNA force .25 engine.

Hopefully killer wheelie and 35+mph. It is supposly rated at 2.5 hp which should be as strong as my v01b on my mp6 but for $109 at ultimatehobbies. I'll let you guys know how it run after i get the engine next week if most of you are interested.

[crypt]

hey gixxer, has ultimate hobies a web page, i´m interested on this new engine.

[maxinoda]

do u know the place that sell new tamiya terra-crusher in singapore, hongkong, or bangkok? maybe the website or address.. please help me..:D

[Zod]

DO you know if the the wheels from the mad force fits the USA-1 nitro or do i have to buy the original ones ??
I am also looking for great big tires for my truck (not tractor tread but more race oriented tires ?? )
I still have mine after nine years and still love it, have some modifications on it but not much, i will try to modify the steering linkage on it ( since i have the Ball bearing steering from GPM on IT ) it's hard on the linkage since it does not have the original servo saver . i will try to post pics soon

[gixxer]

hey gixxer, has ultimate hobies a web page, i´m interested on this new engine.

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/

Just recieved the engine. Rated at 2.5ps probably 2.45hp. For the price it's probably the most powerfull pull start engine. $109:D just hope it runs stronge and well.

do u know the place that sell new tamiya terra-crusher in singapore, hongkong, or
Try www.Ebay.com if your willing to ship overseas.
DO you know if the the wheels from the mad force fits the USA-1 nitro or do i

Not sure you. I know the tires are the same. Why dont' you look in www.kyosho.com and see if the part number match up for drop them an email. Probably easier to order the exact wheel unless there is a price diffence of course good luck.

[Unobjectionable]

i think either wheel will fit either truck (both have 19mm hubs) , but the mad force wheels would make the USA1 a little bit wider (and vice versa)

gixxer, looking forward to hearing how you like the new engine...the only complaints i have heard about it seem to be based on the fact that it's more of a torquer, which is probably a good thing in your application...can't beat that price anyway...eheh

[crypt]

hey,thanks for the info, really very cheap, here in spain a .21 ps nitro engine like the force is about 175 US$ so, sure i´m going for it, and do you think it will fit the usa1 i hope yes.

[gixxer]

I think you have to flip the bottom plate and probably drill 2 holes. I've mounted the engine already but it is only with 2 screw at the moment.

[crypt]

well, now, as you can see in the pics i had post in this phorum, i have the nuova faor´s engine mount so i think i don´t have to do nothing but well if i have to, it isn´t a problem, have you try it yet?, how it works?

[gixxer]

That's cool, I think i'm going to run the OS 01b with this truck since i bought it from scratch in dents for 145!!. I can't believe it brand new and no scratch. I sort of want to finish breaking the engine so i can compare the two.

[crypt]

yes, really this engine would be better, but i don´t have starter box so, if i want to have more power and save money i have to buy one with pull start, so i think thats a god choice

[JoeUSA 1]

got my usa-1 for about a year and have'nt broken anything but body post and one counter gear, well worth the money, while all those b-maxx run for about 5 min and then brake, my truck just keeps on going:)

[crypt]

yes, i have mine for about one year and a half, and the only broken thing on my USA1 is the carburettor (because i did some that i must didn´t do, some body posts and the engine holes, where attach to the chassis, get passed, and however all the body plastic parts. never broke the counter gear, the only thing that is a little fray is the center gear, but works really good

[Zod]

i odered the mad force wheels for the USA 1 Nitro and they won't fit since they inverted the HEX side , so now you need to reach a way longer route to bolt the wheel and this could work on the rear but not in the front and by the way this gives you less wheelbase so i don't think it's recommended to install these wheels , the thing i notice on a buyer guide is that ofna makes 19mm hex wheel so that you can install their monster Tire , do you know wich one will fit the usa 1 is it MODEL 81169 or model
81170 ?? you can see them at tower hobbies web site when you enter these model in their search engine they give some info but not enough to know if they FIT my truck :confused:

[crypt]

hello again, since i bought this steel main diff gear for my usa1, i didn´t fit it to the car until the last weekend, and really it´s a very very bad expended time, the power of the car gets down a lot, if you want to fit it you have to dissasemble the whole car, the max speed doesn´t it too different and the worst thing, never i have broke a clutch bell with the counter gear and this after 30 min. running only i broke it, so i really not recomendet it in anyway. so don´t spend your money on this because the things are going to be really bad.

[crypt]

hey this forum is very stopped, where are you guys, have you all sold out all your usas1 or have you been abducted by an monster ufo?

[Zod]

i just bought ofna wheels and tires and they are awesome , my usa-1 is in the pit right now i am replacing the stock bevel gears to the steel ones , but right now the outdoor season is out it's getting cold out there, i will wrench on my truck this winter and prepare to crush next spring , Happy monster trucking :D

[gixxer]

The cool part about nitro is that you could take it out in the snow. Electric is harder to waterproof.

Ofna wheels? You need to use ofna adaptors to use the 17mm wheels from the monster pirate? Or would the monster blazer be a direct fit?

[Zod]

no i don't need wheel adpaters they are a direct fit and they are really great it's ofna part # 81169 and i ordered tires too , since these are bigger it's part # 81166 and they come with foam inserts , the ofna wheels looks stronger than the USA-1 NITRO original and i was also tired of the tractor tread, the only drawback of the wheels is that they are plain white and not silver like the originals, i needed these wheels because the ofna tires are really huge and don't fit in any kyosho wheels , i say that because i tried the mad force wheels and they don't fit they also don't work for the USA-1 ?? :rolleyes:
i am eager to try these new tires at the track , see ya :)

[crypt]

hey zod, thanks for the info, i was looking for some wheels to replace the originals, those are a little damaged and i want some cheaper than stock ones, thanks again

[Dan427]

I have a pair of ofna dominator wheels and they will not fit, how did bluetoad do that?:eek:

[valleyrc]

Nice USA-1. I have one with a .21 o.s engine. I bought it use and I have lots of fun with it. I have not had anything go wrong with my but the body is to close to the front tires when I turn it almost rip on my bumper. If you would like to pics of it and others go valleyrc.tripod.com. Please leave a message on the message board.

[crypt]

have you try to put the body upper in the body mounts (yes, it sounds weird but maybe...)

[valleyrc]

The body is in the top holes. How are your shocks for hardness are they soft or hard. I know my are fairly soft maybe thats my problem because it only happens when I turn. When I give gas the back end goes down so the front end comes up and I can't steer to good.

Thanks crypt

[crypt]

it´s possible that´s the problem, i have mine stronger as possible ( the car gets up to the top position of the shocks fast), now it have lont white shocks rear and in the front the stronger shocks from a set of three that come for the burns (1/8 shocks), but i´ll have to put more spring spacers in the front (yet it don´t get up to the upper possition), and 400 shock silicone oil front/rear.

[valleyrc]

Thanks for the help crypt:D . Have gone to my web site to see my usa-1 and you can leave a message about the site and about anything want to talk about.

[crypt]

lovely ride, and site too, i was wrong, the lont white was the harden spring i have found (but the shocks are from thunder tiger, for the 1/8 eb4 rear shocks) you only need 4 but if you can buy some kyosho 1/8 shocks i think those are better than mine.

[valleyrc]

crypt I seen your usa-1 cool ride:cool: . I saw on yours that you only have two shocks on the front and back. I have four on the front and back. Why is that? Does it do any diffence? Thanks for the help.

[crypt]

i have to change my original shocks because after a long time using it, become to leak, so i bought duratrax long competition shocks, but i broke two or three :mad: , so i put on it the 1/8 shocks (i hope get it longer than the other) and this shocks are bigger, so you only can fit 2 each place (the other are 1/10 size, that´s why there are 4 each side) i think that put 8 1/10 size is the same to 4 1/8 size (really the 8 shocks looks better) but i did try the 1/8 configuration, but really, is the same (well 1/8 are no leak, until now):p

[valleyrc]

Just wondering what size of engine and what kind it is. I see you put a old chevy body it. Looks good.:)

[crypt]

i have to change the body too, the original chevy is in the trash, it´s looks very good, but all those little plastic pieces (mirrors, fog lights...) are a bad choice for a kind of truck wich is sometimes updown, and sometimes rolling, so i decided to buy one without any kind of plastic pieces, the engine is the gs21r, but i´m thinking to buy an ofna .25 (if i can´t fit the gt32 marine ihave from the boat).

[cryptonik420]

Check out my USA-1! I've got a 1/4 scale servo in it to take care of the steering duties, Nova Favour Center locking diff, Hardened Steel Gears, JRPro electronics, took the baffle out of the stock muffler (man is it loud now!), Working on a custom roll cage now, OS .21 RG-B engine w/ buttsink, upgraded Kyosho 4-in-1 clutch. not sure what else i have in it...

I love this truck, anyone who's got these new monster trucks should've got this bad boy of a truck when it first came out. I've had this truck for 6 years and have only had minor problems with it (i.e. those differentials just cant take my abuse) and I think this thing has a great top speed and awesome climbing ability after I locked the center diff and put automotive grease in the diffs. I love it because of the sheer size of the tires! biggest ones on the market and what a great wear cycle these things have. Absolutely no wear after a billion times running it for 6 years, that tells me you can't go wrong with the stock tires.

http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/152944MVC-040S.JPG
http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/152947MVC-023S.JPG

http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/152911MVC-038S.JPG
http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/152933MVC-011S.JPG

Come on all you USA-1 lovers, lets get some life back in this forum! Come get some pics posted! I'll have more pics to post later on this week. I'm determined to keep this thread alive and well.

If you guys have any suggestions on making this beast more durable or have a good steering setup, take a pic, send it to me. I'm dying to get this thing to steer better!

Also does anyone know if the MP7.5 diffs will work in this truck? or if there is a way to modify parts from the 7.5 to fit? Gimme a holla!

AOL IM: cryptonik420

[crypt]

hey good looking car, could you put pics of the center locking diff, and stock #, ah and ad some pics with the body off, to see how did you put the 1/4 scale servo (mine have one too)

[valleyrc]

Here's a pic of my Nitro Crusher. Cool truck. Go to my web site to see more of it and others.

[boogs]

I'm just fixing my USA-1 up - bought it about 10 years ago! It's been run very little but still needs a lot of stuff!

I'd LOVE more info on after market stuff for this truck!!!

I'll post pics as soon as i get the bearings installed...

Scott

[crypt]

if you understand spanish go to http://groups.msn.com/monstertruckingusa1
there you have all the hop ups i do in my lil rebel (there are stock numbers for the most of it) also you have pics, about it and my mini z.

[crypt]

another pic with the miniz

[crypt]

ooooooooooooooooootra fotico mas

[blaneo]

Nice Trucks Guys!!!! What about clutches? What is everyone running? What is the Kyosho 4 in 1 clutch? I havn't gotten mine running yet(too busy) and was wondering if I should change it right from the start. Is anyone turning their clutches around or just leaving them as is? Thanks for the help, Blane

[crypt]

the only problem with the clutch that i have was when i put in it the main steel gear (i explained it in other post above), so i decided to return to the original configuration, well, maybe i´ll put a 11 teeth clutch, ah and the "project" marine engines goes well, only i have to buy the flywheel for it, but i don´t know if i must do a little radiator or fit a new head for it, i´ll keep you in news...

[crypt]

here goes other, i´m going to put all the pics in my place (monstertruckingusa1)

[cryptonik420]

Hey guys, I'm glad that there's still people out there with a killer truck like the USA1! I love this truck! I just found out how much the e-clip on the differential housing is worth - about as much as a new set of hardened steel gears! I must've spun it out of it the place that it was in. I thought I had saved the gears, but after looking into the diff case (what a mess, i have automotive grease packed in there!) and shifting a few things around, the left output housing was wobbling all over the place. Man was i mad about that! Anyway, my crusher is out of commision until i can afford the ring and pinion hardened gears!

Anyway, you'll see in the pics an old vintage Kyosho Sandmaster (not sure if that's what it is, but I believe that's what it is) that is now demolished!

Here's the scoop on that car if you're interested:
A buddy of mine had this in his closet and decided to give it to me a while ago. I really forgot I had it at home until one day another buddy of mine had one that was all busted up, but still had quite a few good parts on it. That sparked my memory and I remembered about the almost complete car in my closet. Well I brought this over to my buddy N8's house and we began the swap out of parts and the swap in of electronics and customising the engine.

I put a new 0'Donnol head on that motor (I don't even know the size of it, but it says that it's an O.S. CV on the block | must be the first one ever made or something because this thing is older than dirt!) and cleaned out the innards and reassembled the engine. I hit the flywheel on the motor 2 times and it fired up like it was ran yesterday! I was so surprised about this that I just let it run through a tank and then another and then another just to see how the little engine that could would run, without actually running it.

We had to make a custom linkage for the throttle and steering, but that wasn't a problem with a trip to the hardware store. Also we had to put on some modified shocks on the front (off of and old Kyosho Double Dare). Everything was working like a charm, peices were going in smoothly and everything was greased up. Needless to say, we were so psyched about this! It was going to be N8's first gas powered car ever (He's got a first series RC10T)!

Both of us were raring to go out in the yard and see how this vintage car would run. I hit the old school airplane starter on the back of the motor on the starterbox and the engine came to life (Ahh the smell of an old engine burning new style nitro is the best!). So we ran about 5-6 tanks of gas through this thing and after every tank we noticed that there seemed to be no wear and tear, but that the signal from the transmitter to the reciever was pretty weak (about 50 yards or less). With an old gas powered car, that's not good. As the motor got more and more broken in (I think it was maybe run 2 times when this car was new) it started to gain more and more power - Id say about .75 HP at the wheels - we started having more and more fun with it.

N8 wanted to get some photos of this new car and I was ready to run the car again myself, so when N8 was going inside I ran the car into the other yard that's adjacent to N8's and the car lost signal at full throttle. Now there's not anyway to control one of these things when it's lost signal, and when the car lost signal it had run behind a car parked in the driveway so I couldn't see what it was doing. Next thing we know, we both see this little car that could busting ass towards the very heavily trafficed road that's a stones throw away from the end of the yard. Out into the street it went and I thought for sure it wouldn't make it through the ditch - of course it made it through and got run over by a black CLK Mercedes. This poor little car that could was now the car that never would be! Sadness broke through our hearts as we all hate to see a good r/c go to the crapper.

I ran over to the remains and picked them up - man was that motor still hot as hell! Most everything is still intact, except for the output shaft assembly, motor, frame, and well, you can see in the pic what else is messed up.

This didn't stop us from having fun r/c'in that day though! I busted out the Crusher and N8 ran for his RC10T. We had fun for a long time burning out and slamming into that old wrecked piece of turd! What should be, should be - and that vintage r/c that would've brought in a good amount if sold on ebay, was now something that should never have been! EVER! We though about salvaging the parts off the other chassis, but after further inspection, we'd need more than what's there for things to work out correctly for us.

I hope you enjoyed the story, now here's the pics!

http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/266578USA1web1.jpg
http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/266599USA-1web1.jpg

Oh yeah, about the Kyosho 4 in 1 clutch. I have one, and I absolutely love it. It really kicks good, matter of fact it could be one of the reasons that I stripped out my ring and pinion. Quite powerful. I did have to take a dremel to the flywheel and shave down the studs about 5mm or so.

[cryptonik420]

Here's some more pics from that day. They don't have a Crusher in them, but still neat action shots.
http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/19810/266635RC10GTWEB2.jpg
http://home.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/37/37507/folders/43589/266637RC10TWEB2.jpg

Thought you all would like these, if not, plz no flaming me.

[213]

Here is my USA-1

Check the home page. :)

[cryptonik420]

DUDE! Nice USA-1, now if only you had some action shots of it! (Is it me, or is it hard to find a photographer when your R/C's are doing that thing - action shots are hard to come by!) MORE ACTION SHOTS PLZ! Get out there and have your buddy take some pics of your USA-1's tearin it up in the mud, flying in the air, climbing over boulders, slamming into kitty cats...oh wait, don't hit the cats....jumping over cars (that's my next stunt)....

I can not WAIT to get my USA-1 up and running again...anyone out there have a spare set of a ring and pinion for me?!?!?! Once i get this thing going again, you can bet your wallet I'm going to launch it over my car!

Anyone else out there done some crazy launches, let us all know about it! we all want to know about it!

[blaneo]

It's almost done! I swear, I think I keep seeing it nudging towards the door. The body hasn't been touched yet, but we are almost ready to break in the engine. This weekend I hope.
A few questions and/or comments though. Servo arms, is anyone having trouble with plastic ones bending? I can already see this as a problem on mine, is anyone using metal in place of the stock plastic ones?

And what about those plastic servo saver horns on the steering linkage? Does anyone know if there is any of those made in metal?
What size of receiver packs is everyone running? I have a friend with an OFNA and he is going through a set of alkalines with every tank of fuel.

I know, we aren't suppose to use the brakes, but how do the linings hold up? Is there a better setup to use?

I asked once before about the "4 in 1 clutch", is this the same clutch referred to in tower hobbies as a "four shoe clutch"?
And tires, is anyone using foam inserts? Or just doing without them? Are you gluing the tires onto the rims? With what type of glue? I have used regular CA glue (Superglue, CrazyGlue) with very poor results on other models.

I think that's all the questions for right now. Wish me luck, and keep the mud on the guy behind you. I hope you all have a very Happy Thanksgiving. Blane

[213]

Hi cryptonik420

I'm just breaking it in so that's why I don't have any action shoots right now but they will come , just wait....

Did you like my servo plate by the way ?? :)

[213]

I have some questions.

Q1:What kind of Differential Lube do you guy's use ??
(Not what brand)

Q2:After awail the engine dosen't get any fuel.

Can you help me




:confused:

[cryptonik420]

Well howdy HO! Glad to see people are still running and working with this R/C!

Lemme try and answer some of your questions:
I asked once before about the "4 in 1 clutch", is this the same clutch referred to in tower hobbies as a "four shoe clutch"?

It is actually Kyosho's 4 in 1 clutch. Looks like the MIP clutch for the RC10GT - i.e. Two shoes with a spring wrapped around the outside of the shoes.

?I know, we aren't suppose to use the brakes, but how do the linings hold up? Is there a better setup to use?

To say they suck is an understatement! Upgrade as soon as possible - use the MP6 brakes- i believe those are a direct drop in aftermaket parts for the USA-1

Did you like my servo plate by the way ??
nice job on that servo plate! Keep up the good work...if you happen to make an ultra hard counter gear let me know!

Q1:What kind of Differential Lube do you guy's use ??

I use automotive grease! That stuff is so thick, and it doesn't run out of the diffs like liquid diff fluid will. Give it a try, seems to help my USA-1 transfer the power well

Q2:After awail the engine dosen't get any fuel.

You have the engine toooooooo lean! richen it up about a 1/16th of a turn and see what happens....run it for about 2 min. then bring her in and let her idle for a bout 10 sec. Blip the throttle and see if it bogs down, or just plain dies. If it dies, too lean! Richen it up a little bit....I hope I'm correct in the engine tuning department. I'm not a super-tuner of engines by any means. Also you may wanna check for air leaks! Check your fuel lines, carb mount, backing plate....anything else he should be looking for guys

[DCLXVI]

Acually, it doesn't seem like it's running lean...I was with 213 when he drove it last sunday...(it's my DT-10 on our homepage) and come to think of it, it seems that it's the carb that is overheating causing preassure in the fuel line...but that would mean that the mix is to lean, um...ok...guess he/we will try richening it for a bit...wonder if a new plug would also come in handy, as it is somewhat cold here in Sweden (~0 deg C when we ran it last) and on my .15 I really noticed improvment as I changed to a hotter plug...

It is probable that since the air is colder the denisty of the air is (a little) higher and that would mean that the engine draws more air in though the carb...requiring some richening to get the right result...

213 - I don't think you noticed but my DT-10 didn't rev really good last time (not that I drove that far ;)) but I think that it's the same thing...more air (in my case less air due to a needle adj. for ~ -1 to -5 deg C setting) into the engine = to lean engine = higher temp...


/DCLXVI

**EDIT - Spelling and : Sorry for long and rambling post :o

[crypt]

hi, i´m usin 1800 mah, 5 cells batt (just now i have a 1/4 scale servo on it) and it´s sucks batts really good, but for a little servo you can use some others with less capacity, about the metal servo saver maybe there are some for the kyosho mp5/6 but i don´t know, and i have foam inserts on mine and really works great, when the wheel spins free, the tire doesn´t take off of the wheel. and i use ca glue for glueing the tires.

[blaneo]

All praise, worship, honor, and thanks belong to him. To all of you who helped, my respect and admiration. I can't tell you all, how it felt, when she ROARED to life. But then you all have been there. To see your first nitro, struting across the green grasses of your yard. That feeling, that feeling of wanting to just squeeze that throttle all the way back, just to see how fast she'll go. But, out of respect for her virginity, you don't. She is, one that demands respect from you, so you just squeeze a little and she responds to you. She responds in such a way that says, "not just yet, give me a litle more time". "Oh GOD", I yelled, the animal instinct inside of me getting the best of me. I reached down and held her in my hand, taking her into the shop, I caressed her gingerly with a soft cloth and put her to sleep for the night.

[213]

Spot on:D

[crypt]

nice words, just that the feeling, now to crush other mts, and cars :p

[213]

Hi guy's what kind of battery setup do you use?

(acc or standard R6)

Is it a big difference between 4.8 and 6v?

[crypt]

yes, if you use 6v batts, you´ll have more torque in your servos and a faster movement of it , i use AA or R6 five cells nimh batts.

[213]

I was out driving thee other weekend and destroyed the Counter gear.

Now in sted of getting a new every 2:nd week I'm considering to revome it
and connect the main gear witch I will change to a steel gear direct on the engine gear.

I saw that some one else did it.

Have any one else treid it ??

Will the truck loose all it's torque (I hope not).

Or can you give me any other advice.

Regards. 213

[crypt]

i did try that, and it´s a bad thing, really the torque get at least a half but you have a little more end speed, if i were you i´ll buy another counter gear, because you´ll have to buy the main steel spur gear and some things that you will need to fit it and it´s more expensive than a counter, so you´ll see, since i have mine lil rebel i never broke a counter, there is only a little damage in the teeth, about less that 1 milimeter in one of the sides, but it works really good.

[blaneo]

I have to totally agree. Anytime you start taking gears away, you lose torque. You need to choose between torque or speed. Or, buy another and build one for speed and one for torque! Hey!, now there's a nifty idea! Why not have more then one USA-1? I have from a "VERY" reliable source that someone is gonna start building after market parts for the USA-1. Mostly drivetrain parts. Still wanna git rid of that old monster?

As to the question of reciever packs for the USA-1. I have always used 6 volts (Al Kaline's) of power for the receiver. I have even went to 7.2 volts (stick pack) on my electric. It helped alot. Just be sure to check your receiver to see if it can handle it. On my new nitro, I am considering going to 7.2 volts (maybe 8.4 just to see) with "sub c" cells, or even possibly "d" cells. I like lots of power going to those servos, and I want alot of time. I don't know why the nitro's use so much power and capacity compared to the electric's. It just doesn't make sense (atleast to me). Maybe someone can "shed some light" my way about this?

Gotta go people, God's calling me.

[213]

Thank's guy's.

Hey crypt is you counter gear plastic or metall ?

Regards 213.

[213]

Originally posted by blaneo
I have from a "VERY" reliable source that someone is gonna start building after market parts for the USA-1. Mostly drivetrain parts. Still wanna git rid of that old monster?




Hi man you got to let us now as soon as you hear any thing.:D :D :D

[crypt]

my counter gear is the original, however it have two gears, one little made of metal (attach to the main plastic spur/differential gear) and the other, bigger (attach to the clutch bell) made of plastic. maybe i´ll take off the counter, because i´m trying to fit a marine engine (.32 or 5´30cc) so i think if i can´t fit it with the counter, i´ll have enough pooower with this engine :D :D :D

[hcaruso]

If you want to bulletproof your drivetrain and eliminate the gear reduction unit you need to do the following:

1. Replace the front & rear diff gears with MP5/MP6 diff gears. These have 13t pinion gears instead of the stock A-1 15t gears.
You will also need a shim kit with this.

2. Replace the plastic center diff gear with a Duratrax 55t steel gear.

3. Replace the stock clutch bell with the 11t.

4. It helps if you are running a high performance engine. I run an O.S. RZ-B with a CVEC pipe and it has lots of torque and great top speed as well. My A-1 is much faster then my T-maxx(old version) and is much more reliable. Hope that helps.

[hcaruso]

If you want to bulletproof your drivetrain and eliminate the gear reduction unit you need to do the following:

1. Replace the front & rear diff gears with MP5/MP6 diff gears. These have 13t pinion gears instead of the stock A-1 15t gears.
You will also need a shim kit with this.

2. Replace the plastic center diff gear with a Duratrax 55t steel gear.

3. Replace the stock clutch bell with the 11t.

4. It helps if you are running a high performance engine. I run an O.S. RZ-B with a CVEC pipe and it has lots of torque and great top speed as well. My A-1 is much faster then my T-maxx(old version) and is much more reliable. Hope that helps.

[213]

I'm not looking to tune my truck.

I just want it to go well.

I thought maybe I could save some bucks by changing the config.

Thanks Guy's

Regars 213

[smallblock]

Hi there Crypt,

Long time no see. I visited the **** network lately but that forum seems to be dead.
I read all your post in this forum. I see you have done quite a few mods like i did. The thing with the countergear is, if you loose it the gearing is too low. So you need to change some other things too. Here is what i did:

clutchbell 11 T
steel maingear 55 T
( both Duratrax stuff i ordered with Tower Hobbies)
steel pinion and drivebevelgears from the MP6 (lower gearing than the Burns/USA1 drivebevels)

The overall gearing is still higher than stock but it works. I run my truck with an older OS 21RX and a OS T2030 pipe wich is rated at 2.2 HP and it does spin all four wheels when accelerating on lose ground and does mild wheelies when on paved road.

I've done some other nice mods too last summer. I'll post some pics soon.

[crypt]

hi smallblock, if you refer to the harden steel bevel (large & small) i think the stock # is bsw2, i have it instaled in, but the engine is the original from kyosho (gs21r), so it´s a low power engine, i´ll try to fit a gt32 marine engine in it, and then i´ll fit again the main steel gear, i think i´ll have more torque with this engine.

[213]

I have the kyosho gs21r engine.
How do I make this setup with out the counter gear work ???

Regards 213.

[crypt]

well, if you remove the counter, and install the 55 teeth main steel gear from duratrax, you´ll not have problem, the clutch and the main gear will get closer, but if they don´t,you´ll need to buy a wider clutch,to make the right joint, i that doesn´t work, and here comes the troubles, you´ll need to buy an adjustable engine mount like the mp5/6 from nuova faor (you can see it in this forum tread some pages back of this one, and eliminate the mountings from the engine, and make four new holes in the side mounts of the engine, but usually it doesn´t matter, ah! and remember to flip the front and rear diffs, if you don´t do it, your car will go reverse.

[213]

I'm looking for some new wheels, do you have any idees??

And I'm not gonna spend $90 on alu.

Regards 213.

[crypt]

ofna wheels (19mm) fit it, some for the clod also fit to it and i think (not sure) that mad force will fit

[213]

I still whant the orginal tires to fit.

Regards 213.

[213]

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=16

[valleyrc]

Merry Christmas to all the USA-1 owners

[blaneo]

Yes, A Very Blessed Christmas to All.

[213]

Yes and a happy new year :)

Regards 213

[blaneo]

What?! Do you all hibernate in the colder months? Where is everyone? Do I have to start talking to myself again?
I finally got my Nitro USA-1 running. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and tips. It has had it's ups and downs. The downs have been pretty hard. At first I faught with the needle settings, and then I finally got them in line. One day I headed to the neighbor park and opened her up. Diasater struck and struck hard. The throttle got stuck wide open and she screamed across the parking lot into a pile of steel bleachers. Ouch! I bent the front shock tower, broke a shock, broke a gear, and my pride took a beating. There have been three diasaters in as many months, but I will prevail. Yesterday I rolled her out again and she ran flawlessly, only a bit of front shock tower trouble, so there is still hope for us.
Is anyone having trouble with the original shock towers bending easily? I have been thinking of making some that are thicker or adding some sort of bracing. Does anyone know if there any available in titanium?
What kind of glow plugs is everyone using? I have been using o.s. A5 plugs and seem to be going through them quite often. I am running 20% nitro with 12% oil.
We need to keep this thread alive people!

[crypt]

well i have my rear shock a little bend, but it still working, maybe some day i´ll make a aluminium 3mm tower, but after i got my new buggie, a mugen mbx 4xr works, i´m getting insane thinking about it, i´ll go to buy it because here in granada (spain) the only race track is for 1/8 buggies, well in the whole spain too, it´s a shame, well i´ll tell you. about the plug i use #3 os, but i´m using 15% nitro.

[213]

I broke my front wheel and when I ordered a new
one from kyosho (Sweden) they sent me the wheel for the MAD FORCE because they don't have any USA-1 wheels left.

And I can tell you all they DON'T fit.

So I have to wait and see what they say.

If I don't get a set of new wheels
can I buy any other wheels that WILL fit with the orginal tires????

Regards 213

[213]

I broke my front wheel and when I ordered a new
one from kyosho (Sweden) they sent me the wheel for the MAD FORCE because they don't have any USA-1 wheels left.

And I can tell you all they DON'T fit.

So I have to wait and see what they say.

If I don't get a set of new wheels
can I buy any other wheels that WILL fit with the orginal tires????

Regards 213

[crypt]

well i think ofna monster pirate will fit, but you have to buy 19mm hex, read all the posts (i think there are some info)

[213]

Yes I read them, but I don't think they use the usa-1 tires.

(I want to use the orginal tires for the usa-1)

I'm Looking for the rim not the entire wheel.

Sorry if I didn't make that clearer.

By the way how is the boat engine project going crypt?


Regards 213.

[crypt]

well, i´m waiting for the new muffler (os special muffler for marine engines), because if i put the one i have, i´ll get the engine in the other side (make new holes, get the servos to the other side) because it doesn´t fit as well (get really closer to the rear bulkhead) so when i get the other i´ll restart the project, but i have some started, i did put the flywheel, i had to cut the crankshaft about 3 or 4 milimeters, but fits well, ops, i have had to remove the counter, so i hope it have enough torque wiith the new engine. well now i have to find a little pump if i want to make a radiator (maybe in the usa it exist, but here in spain surely doesn´t), if not i´ll have to adapt the engine head from the old gs21r, and the other step is to fit an air filter because the carb´s idle screw is really close to the carb air intake , about 0.5mm between both.

[blaneo]

Hi Everyone
Does anyone know if there is a backplate available to replace the recoil starter? If so, have you got the part number? And has anyone tried the 8mm carb available for these engines?
In regards to an earlier post of mine, my shock towers are bent again. I am going to make a new set out of 1/8" aluminum. I believe my problem lies with the rear differential. When I jump the front end will either come up and over the rear end, or the front end will dive and come under the rear end, causing me to somersault, usually landing on the top. Is this a problem with the differentials, shock setup, or maybe center of gravity? I really need help with this, I want to land on all fours when I jump. I didn't buy this truck, to just run it around parking lots.
Thanks as always

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by blaneo
Hi Everyone
Does anyone know if there is a backplate available to replace the recoil starter? If so, have you got the part number? And has anyone tried the 8mm carb available for these engines?
In regards to an earlier post of mine, my shock towers are bent again. I am going to make a new set out of 1/8" aluminum. I believe my problem lies with the rear differential. When I jump the front end will either come up and over the rear end, or the front end will dive and come under the rear end, causing me to somersault, usually landing on the top. Is this a problem with the differentials, shock setup, or maybe center of gravity? I really need help with this, I want to land on all fours when I jump. I didn't buy this truck, to just run it around parking lots.
Thanks as always

Sounds like you need to learn to jump...there is a technicue for it...letting of the gas or even breaking is supposed to make the car "dive", giving throttle are supposed to make the car "climb"...
Try adjusting your trim while in air using these technicues...
If you mean that the somersaulting comes after the landing e.i. from the "re-bound" you have a faulty shock setup...try softer...

/DCLXVI

[crypt]

for the back plate i think there is no one, but you can use a starter box with the recoil starter mounted, if you want you can remove the spring and all the internal mechanism.

[blaneo]

I do know how to jump. It seems more like the diffs are not in sync with each other. The front diff seems to be pulling the truck more then the rear diff is pushing it. The front diff is much looser then the rear, when I apply power it will spin instantly. I am wondering if the enertia exerted by the front is pulling or pushing the front end over. The rear diff doesn't seem to freewheel as long as the front either. I havn't done a tear down of the rear diff to see if there is something wrong, I suppose maybe that is in order.

Crypt, I am planing on using a starter box. I was hoping to do away with the recoil completely, lightening the vehicle up. If a backplate isn't available, I will just have to deal with it. I was hoping that the .21 engine that doesn't have the recoil was the same engine with a backplate. I have not been able to find an exploded view of this engine though to see. Perhaps I should write OS and see what they have to say.

Thanks for the help.

[crypt]

hey blaneo, what engine are you talking about? i though that the gs21r (old) comes ever with recoil starter, but if you have an os engine sure there is a back plate for it.

Here is my family, hope you like it:

[JoeUSA 1]

go to tower hobbies for the back plate, the pull and non pull are the same engines, go to engines and then to parts

[blaneo]

Thanks for the infomation.I have put the recoil back on, but I will have to get the backplate for future use.

[rcracerguy]

Hey Blaneo!! Why don't you make them shock towers out of 1/16" ply wood? I think Losi makes some. They are a killer setup and hold up well. LOL :-))

[rcracerguy]

Oh by the way. Your Blizzard form they started for you is in Electric offroad.

[blaneo]

The way things have been going for me, I should make them out 1/2" boiler plate.

[blaneo]

I know who you are and I know where you live.
I don't have an electric Blizzard, and you know that. The electric forum was started for another fella, I only helped. Did you like the webpage?

[rcracerguy]

Yep the web page looks good. Keep up the good work. We'll have to get some action shots when it get's nice out. Or at least try to get some.

[213]

Hi

Kyosho sweden told me today that the MAD FORCE rims thas fit.

But they DON'T :mad: :mad: :mad

[blaneo]

Ofna made some that will fit the USA-1 Nitro. The part number is listed elswhere in this section. I had them on backorder from Tower Hobbies, But last week they emailed me and said that Ofna had discontinued them.

[JoeUSA 1]

there is a nice set of alum. rims on ebay, nice and expensive Item # 3117048250

[kakolitoy]

I keep messing up my counter gears, Any suggestion on how to prevent stripping gears.


So far, this is what I did.

I loctite the nut of the counter gear, and the screw on the chassi for the counter gear assembly.

I even took the counter gears out and made my truck run straight to the middle gear. However, I loss some of the torque power when the truck has the counter gear.


I think anyone that had this truck had the same problem, any suggestion will help me.

thanks

[213]

New pictures on the home page:D

[213]

Hi kakolitoy use newspaper paper:)

Workt fine for me.

Regards 213

[213]

I know what I seed before but ,

wich puned pipe do you guys recomend to my Kyosho GS21R Engine ?

I read it would be a big difference just to change the pipe.

And it's not that expensive to.

Regards 213.

[kakolitoy]

Originally posted by 213
Hi kakolitoy use newspaper paper:)

Workt fine for me.

Regards 213


I do not have problem on spacing, The pinoin gear and the counter have enough space to move freely. I am talking about when the truck is running off road and jumps. The counter gear assembly and its tower tends to move.

[213]

Do you use foam in our tires?

Shock setup?

Maybe you can do something about that I don't know?

[blaneo]

Hey everyone,
How's everyone been doing? Been busy for me the past feww months I know that much. I've had my USA-1 out a few times already this spring, still having problems with the truck wanting to flip when I jump, but I may just have to deal with that for now.

kakolitoy:
Boy that's a new problem, I never expierenced that one. You have something generating quite a bit of torque there. Do you have the brace rods attached to the pan tray? There is something going on, that is flexing the pan, causing your problem. With all the stuff I have hit and all the hard jumps and bounces I have never expierenced that....... I just ran out and looked at my truck. Are you using threadlocker on the screws that hold the tower to the pan? If so are you letting the threadlocker set up and cure for atleast 24 hours before using the truck? Threadlocker is really funny that way. Someplaces we can use and go right out and run the truck. Other places like the engine,tranny, and drive units, we need to let the threadlocker completely cure before using. Threadlocker can take up to 48 hours to completely cure, usually 24 hours is enough though. I hope this helped.

213:
I have asked that question also, with no replies. My GS21r has the newer style of pipe on it. Apparently the earlier versions had something different. I do know that the later version was a dramatic improvemnet over the eariler one. I have a friend with an Ofna and he changed his pipe and had a huge change, but I don't remember which he used. I will ask and find out, as I want to try it also.

rcracerguy:
What pipe did you put on your Ofna? Maybe you'll see this and I won't have to email you.

[kakolitoy]

[

kakolitoy:
Boy that's a new problem, I never expierenced that one. You have something generating quite a bit of torque there. Do you have the brace rods attached to the pan tray? There is something going on, that is flexing the pan, causing your problem. With all the stuff I have hit and all the hard jumps and bounces I have never expierenced that....... I just ran out and looked at my truck. Are you using threadlocker on the screws that hold the tower to the pan? If so are you letting the threadlocker set up and cure for atleast 24 hours before using the truck? Threadlocker is really funny that way. Someplaces we can use and go right out and run the truck. Other places like the engine,tranny, and drive units, we need to let the threadlocker completely cure before using. Threadlocker can take up to 48 hours to completely cure, usually 24 hours is enough though. I hope this helped.




HI! , thanks for the info.

BUt I did have a red loctite on that tower for a week before I used it again. Red loctite is one of the strongest and its used for real cars. I do not think the tower moves. I think the chassi flex on jumps. I am not sure, as far as I know the tower is really tight on the chassi.

[213]

Hi blaneo

Here is an idee for you jumping problem.

[213]

Hi blaneo

Look at my new pics.

I put the batt acc in front and it seems to work good.

Regards 213.

[blaneo]

Hey 213,
Are you talking about the battery pack for the truck? I already have mine mounted on the front shock tower. I was thinking about moving it back further along the chassis to see what will happen. I am still thinking along the lines that there is something different between the front and rear diffs. I am also going to check the center of gravity on my truck just to make sure that isn't causing the problem. Even on little jumps it wants to nose dive.

[213]

Hi blaneo

I haven't have any problem with that.


Regards 213

[213]

I'm thinking of getting a Manifold (Header) made of alu instead of that org one witch is made of silicone.



I got my new bodey 2

it's gona be a KILLER.:cool:

[213]

Originally posted by blaneo
I have from a "VERY" reliable source that someone is gonna start building after market parts for the USA-1. Mostly drivetrain parts. .



Hey blaneo any news on these parts?

Any more details on what they are?


:confused:

Regards 213

[blaneo]

Sorry for not replying. I didn't receive any mail about any new messages here. I have been thinking about a new manifold also, I will wait and see what you get and let you be the guinea pig. :) Let me know how it goes. It has been cold here so I havn't been doing much outdoors lately. I still havn't cjecked the weight distribution yet either. About the new parts, I don't know much more then I did months ago. I talked with him just a week ago, and it looks like the truck parts have been put on hold. This fella builds prototype products for people who have new inventions, and are applying for patents. It seems the one he is/has been working on has hit a bunch of snags the past few months. All of his attention has been going into that project. But he said he is still planning on the parts. From what I gather he is planning on starting with wheel hubs and driveline parts. I have been trying to get him to build me a set of shock towers out of stainless steel, but that hasn't happened either. I do have another fella that says he can do it for me, if I do all the layout work. So the second guy looks a bit more promising right now. gotta go.

[213]

Hi blaneo

The mainfolder thing didn't work.

Too little space betvine the engine and the back of the truck.

I run the kyosho GS21R engine.

I guess that I have to change engine to change the mainfold.

Regards 213.

[crypt]

well guys, i´m thinking that is the time for a new engine, the old gs21r has it days counted, lately it´s getting too hot (180ºc) because it have no compression, and after testing a new osrzv01 for my mugen buggie, i think i have to get other engine for my little rebel, i have been thinking about force 25, but in a few days tower will have a team orion wasp 26, well the sirio 27 is too cool, and so expensive:p well guys, what do you thin about force and T.O. wasp, wich could be better?
ps: 213 yet i´m waiting for the OS muffler i ordered three months ago, and i think i can´t wait more for this, so the marine engine project will be dramatically stopped :confused:

[blaneo]

213: Bummer!

Crypt: Can't help you with this one, I don't have a clue about any of them. Sorry

[213]

Hi Crypt

How would you solve the water cooling of the boat engine?

Regards 213.

P.S How do I prepare the bodie best before I paint it?

On my first bodie the piant started to come of pretty quick.

[crypt]

well i though about a cooling fan unit from a pc, and make a radiator from brass tube (easy to weld) but about the water pump i didn´t find any smaller enough, other way was fitting the gs21r cooling head to the gt32m, the holes fit ok but it doesn´t have the same size for the camber so i was thinking about eliminate the plug hole widening until the plug heater (i can´t remember the name in english, sorry) get through it and adding to the gt32m head, but well the muffler isn´t available at the moment, so i´m thinking for the new engine.

[blaneo]

Hey There,

213: I have found that simple liquid hand soap does an excellant job of cleaning the body, and it rinses away easily. We use Softsoap arond our house. Make sure you don't use anything with a petroleum base (solvent base), these leave residues behind that the paint can't adhere to. Hand cleaners are notoriuos for this. Even some dish soaps have a petroleum base (they use this to cut grease). Good luck.

[blaneo]

Hey have ya all seen the new "Mad Armor" from Kyosho? It's a take off from the Mad Force. The new twist is that it comes with an OS 21 engine. The engine has an aluminum manifold on it, and what appears to be a different muffler. Does anyone know if the OS 21 has the same screw spacing for the exhaust as the GS21? Could be a new hop up. There is a listing on Kyosho's home page about it.

[bad viking]

I want to put on some shiny wheels on my USA-1.
Will wheels that fit the t-maxx work on my USA-1????


Bad Viking

[DCLXVI]

The T/E-Maxx wheels are much smaller so the car will go alot slower... (it will pull stronger though)...

Clodbuster rims/tires will fit much better (so I've been told)...

/DCLXVI

[blaneo]

The drive hexes on the wheels are different. Ofna used to make a set that had the same size (#81169?), they were discontinued though. Other then them, I don't know of any that will fit without an adapter.

[blaneo]

DCLXVI:
Hey, I wanted to thank you again for the help that you gave me early on. Without your help, this truck could have been nightmare, and I probably would have given up on it. But my love for it, and your guidance with the engine, has made it one of my favorites. It ranks right up there with my one and only true love in R/C, my USA-1 Electric. Sometimes we bless each other and don't even know it. Thanks

[213]

Hi

I made the alu mainfolder thing work thank's to DCLXVI

Check the page for pics.

Regards 213:)

[blaneo]

213:
yea I seen that the other day when I was looking at your guy's pics. How's the performance? What did you do exactly? I also seen a pic of your front end with the battery straped on. How does it jump with that on there? I use 1700 mah nimh AA batteries in mine, so I don't think shifting it around will help much. I just finished tearing mine down and rebuilding it last night. I put the batteries down underneath the radio tray where they recommend in the manual. I will try that and see what happens. I added the H.D. Servo Saver onto the steering. Much beefier now, hopefully it will help some with the steering. Wasn't bad before, but I think it will be tighter now. I also added a speedometer to it. That should add some fun to it. Be kind a neat to see just how driving I really am doing.

[213]

Considering that I have the GR21R engine I think the performence is better then I expected :D

We drove up a small mounten but you can't really see how steep it is in the video :(

Regards 213.

[213]

The first video is finisht :D :cool:

Regards 213

[bad viking]

hei 213


where du you get that counter gear and the radio plate in steal.

i have a problem vitt my counter gear and the radio plate it is broken.

bad viking

ps: er du svensk:rolleyes:

[213]

Hej bad viking

Ja jag är svensk

Jag har en servo platta i alu om du vill köpa.

Mail mig på 213@home.se om du är intreserad.

[213]

Om du tycker att det är lättare att prata svenska så kan vi prata det på forum som ligger på våran hemsida

/213

[213]

Here is my new bodie
I hope I can paint it this week end.

Regards 213

[mike80corvette]

I JUST GOT A USED USA-1 AND I AM PUTTING A OFNA .25 IN IT WHAT UPGRADES DO I NEED TO MAKE IT BETTER THEN THE TMAXX 2.5. WHERE DO THEY SALE UPGRADES FOR THE TRUCK.

[mike80corvette]

anybody here can i bump start the usa-1 cause the .25 i have doesn't havea pull start

[blaneo]

Mike:
I don't know about bump starting, I have never tried that. Sounds like you may have to invest in a starter box, or possibly modify the motor and put a recoil on it. Perhaps 213 or DCLXVI maybe able to help. As far as the upgrades available, there are not a whole lot. If you read through all of the posts on this thread you will find most of the changes that we have made, or tried to make:p . Just ask about anything in particular and we all will help as much as possible. Good luck, enjoy your truck, it's a ball of fun. What engine do you have on your truck?

[blaneo]

Here's some pics of my truck. I finnally got off my butt and took some.

[blaneo]

Front view

[blaneo]

The inner workings

[DCLXVI]

By the looks of it and considering the fact that the chassi comes from an 1:8 buggy it sould be possible to bumpstart the car...
Problem is to get a starter up there...

/DCLXVI

[mike80corvette]

i don't see any kit that has a pullstart conversioin for the ofna .25 any suggestions

[blaneo]

213: You mentioned that your engine was getting up to 180 degrees. Do you think that is hot? Or were you just commenting that it was low because of the engine wear? I was just wondering as I run my engine around the range of 230-250 degrees.

Sunday I was trying to get the carb reset (after a certain someone got dirt in my carb), and started playing around with the fuel mixture. I hit the 350 degree mark, man was she ever screaming! I backed off real quick and got it back down to the 250 degree range. Anyway, I think every thing is back to normal now and the truck seems to be okay. But a new engine may be in the future for the truck.

I did get to check out the speedometer. I ran the truck for two tanks of fuel and drove 3.1 miles, and hit a top speed of 23.4 mph, and a run time of 25- 1/2 minutes. That was in heavy grass, so I think the speed is a bit lower then it should be on pavement or dirt.

The 4-1700mah nimh receiver batteries sucked, they just don't have the voltage that the truck needs. I will add another, or maybe even two and see if that helps. I did move the batteries back under the tray where there are suppose to be and that seemed to help a little with the jumping problem I was having before.

The new steering arms did make a big difference, the steering is alot tighter now, and seems to turn easier with the bearings.

I think I need to invest in new shocks. I think that may be where my jumping problem is. The Duratrax Gold shocks have not held up. I have bent two of them and the others are leaking. I was thinking of either adding the shocks from the MP6 or trying the ones for the Ofna MBX, those have an adjustable nut on the springs instead of the plastic clips or tension band. I will have to do some pricing on them.

Well that's about it for now, talk with ya all later.

[DCLXVI]

The shocks 213 are using are sooooo nice...they're called Turbo Big Shocks and are for the MP 6 or 7,5...

Blaeno : Are you talking farenheit or celsius...?

/DCLXVI

[blaneo]

DCLXVI:
I was talking about farenheit. LOL, I thought about that after I finished writing my post. How do those turbo shocks adjust the spring rate?

[DCLXVI]

The spring rate are adjustable with either a threaded shock body or by the "collar" either way they'er freely adjustable...there are no fixed spacers...

Hmm...130 deg farenheit are probably quite low for engine temp but in celsius it quite high... (since water boils at 100 deg)...

/DCLXVI

[Zod]

YES you can bump start a USA-1 , i think it's the best way to start a nitro vehicule , i have the regular Duratrax blue starter box
Stock Number: DTXP5000
and it's awesome , it's start the truck in a flash , i would never go back to any other method to start this truck , i just tried my truck last thursday and it still worked fine , i tried the new setup of wheel and tires from ofna , AND wOW it';s like driving a whole new truck , it's much faster and their is less drag compared to the stock tires and rims , my new tire setup came with foam inserts so it can take more abuse without deforming, i will try to post some pics soon .
I have to agree that the duratrax gold shocks SUCK , compared to genuine KYOSHO gold SHOCKS, but it think i will need to replace those to have better jumping ability , i don't think i want to invest in 1/8 shocks their expansive but i will maybe consider the threaded shocks from the ofna 9.5 pro or maybe other brand since their still expansive??

[blaneo]

I was just about to write about the Ofna tires and wheels. In an earlier post I had reported that they were discontinued, I found that to be false. The Ofna #81169 wheel is a direct fit to the USA-1 Nitro. Tower Hobbies has them in stock. They are plain white, but I am planning to try that new chrome paint and see how they turn out. The Ofna tires have a slightly larger inside diameter then the stock USA-1 tires. The Ofna tires will spin really freely on the USA-1 rims. I was going to try to glue them to the USA-1 wheels, but figured that there was to much of a difference. I got mine a week ago, but have not had the time to paint them yet. You are so right about the foams, they make a huge difference in stability. I had found a set of Ofna foams at the hobby shop and they did fit into the USA-1 tires and rims. A bit tight, but they work great.

[213]

It is done :cool:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/img_149.jpg

[213]

Do anyone of you have problem with the pressure line comming loose all the time? Mine does, it's really hard to adjust the needles since the engine runs leaner with the line off...

Can I drive with out it?

Regards 213.

[crypt]

well do you try to glue it with locktite? put only a little in one of the sides of the silicone tube, or if not try to fix it with a little strap, but never has occur that to me.

[213]

If I locktite it then how I'm I gonna get gasoline in the engine when I re-fuel?

Regards 213

[crypt]

well, maybe i didn´t understand you, when you say pressure line is the silicone tube from the exhaust to the fuel tank or the fuel tank cap, because if the problem is the first thing, i don´t see the problem to do tha i did say in the other post.

[blaneo]

213:
Hey great looking body. I love it!
Below is a pic of the barbed fittings that I use on my mufflers. Simply knock off the cast nipple, drill and tap the muffler, and thread one of these into it. Your pressure/return line will never fall off again. At the tank and at the carb., I use plastic tie straps to keep the fuel line attached. What type of fuel line are you using? I asked because in the past I have used fuel line designed for small engines. It was okay to use, but it was not as soft as r/c fuel line, and it would become hard or stiff and always slip off. When I went back to the more expensive r/c fuel line, I quit having that problem. Hope this helps.

[DCLXVI]

I'm just in to post a few pics from a video I'm editing...

It's 213's rig if you did not notice ;)

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/STILL_006.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/STILL_025.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/STILL_011.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/STILL_005.jpg

One of us will post when I have got my thumb out o...when I'm finnished... :D

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Forgot a nice one... :

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/STILL_037.jpg

/DCLXVI

[crypt]

wow, really nice pics, but i don´t like to drive my little rebel without body:p

[blaneo]

Nice pics indeed! I havn't been able to do any running at all lately. My daughter graduated High School Sunday and we had that to deal with. Now I get to look forward to the party on Saturday. Till next Sunday there is no nitro fmes in the forecast for me.
:mad: :mad:

[mike80corvette]

why do yall mount the battery in the front and what kind of battery is it.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by mike80corvette
why do yall mount the battery in the front and what kind of battery is it.

You'll have to ask 213 but I think that they fit there ;)

6v 3000mAH...

/DCLXVI

[213]

I think it's the best fit.

Regards 213.

[Mook9304]

That truck looks really nice .

[213]

Thanks Mook9304

Regards 213

[crypt]

well, since 3 years of work here do you have whats the matter when an engine sleeve get broken in some parts while the engine is running, good bye gs21r:(

[crypt]

yes,it´s a hole in the crankcase
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[DCLXVI]

Get some gum and zip-ties :D

What arre you gonna replace it with?

/DCLXVI

[crypt]

i´m thinking about ofna/picco .26 outlaw, force .25, or buy a new engine for the buggie and put the OS rzvo1b to the monster, but really i don´t know.

[DCLXVI]

How about the OS .40 4-stroker? It's adapted for use in cars...they even have a pic of it sitting in a LandMax (same chassie as the USA-1, almost)...
They're pretty cheap to...

/DCLXVI

[213]

Yeah crypt go for the OS .40 4-stroker.

I think I will when my GS21R gives up.

Regards 213

[crypt]

well i saw it have only 1.9hp, but in the os and tower page they say that have a great power, what do you think, could that be better tha any 25 or 26?

[DCLXVI]

Way more torque! Loads more...

Nicer sound to...easier adjustments (not at all as sensitive as a two-stroker)...

But you will probably have to "tinker away" the counter-gear though and go direct to the central-diff...

/DCLXVI

[Zod]

Hi , i have a question for 213 about the body post for mounting the grave digger body , i also happen to have one laying around for almost 6 months , i didn't try to install it but i was woundering if you used the stock body post or made them youreself , Thanks

:)

[213]

Hi Zod

Front:
I cut the front body post in half and mounted an air-tube betvine the two posts.

Rear:
Here I just extended it with another rear body post with the same air-tube.

(hope you understand)

Maybe I or DCLXVI can post a picture later.

Regards 213

[hoho]

usa-1(ep)

[hoho]

usa-1(ep)_2

[hoho]

usa-1(ep)_3