Maximum ST/ST Pro forum

[megaman]

your a retard? ha! i cracked my crankcase being stupid. now i need a new one, but there only 20 bucks. what kind of 20% fuel did you get 'cause i was wanting some 20% fuel but dont know which to get.

for your idling/running problem, it sounds like your running lean, but with more % fuel it would have the effect of richening it up, so you should be leaning it out. (does that make sence?) but i dont know, adjust your idle stop screw and try tuning it again. try richening it up first, sence that sounds like its the problem.

oh and my cvd pins keep sliding out while i drive, what can be done to stop this?

[biturbo15]

this is some good news for all you St lovers out there:

You know the savage 21? Well you know that cool picture of it where its got one wheel on a soda can, and the other three on the ground?

(click here for pic, scroll down to see it)
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

Well believe it or not, the ST can do it to! I did it when i was bored with my friend. it takes time but it makes for a great pic of your own. i just thought i would give you guys somthin to brag about, because we have kick butt trucks.:D


PEACE

[biturbo15]

ty megaman, (were talkin live)

as for your prob i dont know,


i got some o'donnel 20% but i recamend trinity fuel.

what u said made some sence, but can you clarafy a little more?
(remember, i am a retard...)

lol

[megaman]

talking live. lol.
and what i mean is... you know how when you richen up your truck, it puts a higher % nitro into the engine. when you get a higher % nitro ( like 20%) its like richening it up, cause there is more fuel. so, when your running rich, you need to lean it out, just like if you were running a higher % nitro youd need to lean it out. but, it sounds like you already have it lean, so try richening it up. just trial and error, keep tuning and retuning till you have it running right. as soon as i get my 20% nitro, ill tell you all my settings, just to be sure.

[sven_one]

I jsut ordered the tuned pipe, beariing set, and fuel filter from tower...just thought you'd all like to know. How easy is it to install this stuff? Also, what kind of oil should I use on my air filter when I clean it? Thanks in advance

[Trevor280z]

is it your idle or when you run it at speeds? if its your idle the back out your idle screw about a 1/16 of a turn. make sure the throttle doesnt close all the way when the breaks are fully on. meaning if there is a visible "slit" while breaks are on then your ok. if its overheating while you run it then back out your high speed an 1/8 of a turn then run it and see if it helps, if it doesnt then back it out another 1/8 and so on. you might need to richen up your low speed just a hair, id say a 1/8 of a turn.

mega, get some heat shrink and put it around your cvd's where the pin is and that while keep them from coming out.

sven... your gonna have to drill into your chassis to support that pipe. i used some welding rod because i didnt like the st-pro one. but everything is easy to install but be ready to drill

[megaman]

thanks trevor. but its a fruitless effort now. my max is OFFICIALLY down for the count, i cracked my crankcase being stupid, so now i have to wait. in the meantime im going to take apart and clean my max, including reloctiting.

[sven_one]

Ok, I have a few questions. First of all, where do the bearings in the bearing completer set go at each wheel. I had one of the hub carriers off earlier just chekcing it out, and I couldn't see where they would go. Another thing.....how does the hex washer that meshes with the wheel come off. I tired (not too hard though) and I couldn't get it to budge. And the final question, why will I have to drill when I install the pipe? It looks to me like there's already a hole in the chassis on the side that the pipe might connect to. And, along those lines...how much tuning f the carb will I have to do to optimize the pipe? Sorry about the long post, but I have lots of questions. Thanks in advance.

[megaman]

first off, to get the washer off the axle, since its tapered and wedged on youll need to pry it. just put a flathead screwdriver and pry it off, nothing will brake. second, the bearings go where the bushings were. you should be able to figure it out, hopefully since i cant explain it. and since there is a hole there oyu wont need to drill, just use the wire that came with it (if there is one) and mount it. i dont really know how much tuning youll have to do, its all just really trial and error.

[tamiyajoe]

i have a max st pro and i was just wonderin:

does anyone make carbon fiber/alluminum shock towers, front rear bulkheads or body post?

basikly,i just want to replace the plastic parts on my truck, does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes alluminum/carbonfiber parts for a max st pro??

[megaman]

nope, the max st has no aftermarket support. except for duratrax. why? do you keep braking parts?

[Trevor280z]

You can make some body post with washers, metal piping, and JB weld

[megaman]

lol, i dont think thats what he had in mind

[ScottZ]

Sure would be nice if I could run my truck, but it is currently 12 degrees, and the high temp for the next week and a half is 24. Hope you all are having fun....:rolleyes:

Scott :rolleyes:

[tamiyajoe]

no im not breakin stuff (tuf truck) but i just dont lyk the plain black look of plastic. lol

[sven_one]

hi everyone. So tonight I was a bit inebriated and I decided to run my Max ST in the basement of my fraternity house...below is what happened when I came in contact with the pop machine after running at full throttle for about 15 feet, and applying the brakes and sliding sideways. I also hit some things beforehand, but no too hard, could these have weakened the wheel? To replace it I'm looking for new wheels and tires. I need recomendations (links please!) for tires and wheels, considering I can't get the tires to come loose from the wheels without destroying them. In the end, I guess I shouldn't have been driving drunk. I guess this just gives me time to get the bearings, tuned pipe, and fuel filter installed while I'm waiting for parts. I need links ASAP, please. Sorry about the long post.

[sven_one]

Also, is this hole (picture below) a tuned pipe mounting hole?

[Trevor280z]

yeah thats the mounting hole. try RPM wheels, the only ones that will work are the ones that say "traxxas elec front" they're pretty rigid. i have proline step pins, edges for racing if i need my truck, and masher 2k for bashing.

mega, i dont think making the body post are as hard as you think

[elctroTEEN]

I dont know if any one else has had this problem I dont know what to do. I got a 360* manifold for x-mas and the screws that came with it werent long enuff to go thru the engine and then the screws off of the old manifold the threads wenent right so how do i put it on.

[Trevor280z]

what do you mean not right? ive had about 3 different headers and the stock screws fit each one. only one of those was duratrax

[sven_one]

There is a thing that came with my truck that I can't figure out. It's a silvery ribbon with a plastic thing to thread it through. does anyone know what it's for? I'm attaching a picture below. Also, a few days ago I asked what kind of oil to use on the air filter when I clean it. I really need to know so I can clean it while my truck's down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[tamiyajoe]

that is just something with the radio, it hold the flag to show wat frequency you are on (ithink) its pointless, you can leave it off

[megaman]

"mega, i dont think making the body post are as hard as you think"
i didnt say they were;) . in other news, i need about 60 bucks to fix my Max:mad: .

[skelator]

hellow all i was wondering what engine i could drop in my max st. pro for more top speed without having to change much else?

[CTurbo]

Try a OS cvr-x .12 or .15. It will be insane.

[megaman]

my dream...trinity .15 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRT76&P=7) . my other dream...o.s cvrx (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL2&P=0)

[eeyore65]

I noticed that the Duratrax Overdrive ST uses a 56T and a 60T gear on the two speed trans and it looks like they would fit on the Maximum ST Pro two speed trans replacing the 48T and 52T gears , i would just have to reposition the engine.
Does anyone know if this will work ?

[megaman]

heck try it, tell us if it works, itll make it slower though, more torqy

[CTurbo]

You dont' need those gears, it will make your car very slow.

[eeyore65]

I was thinking less wheel spin on take off and higher top speed.
Tower has them on their "Daily Sale" page , last time i check they wanted $3.25 each.

[megaman]

youll get more wheel spin when you gear down, and you wont get very much "higher speed", youll take off hecka fast, thats about it. maybe youll get a wheely though!

[eeyore65]

I thought going with bigger gears was "gearing up" ( 56T and 60T instead of 48T and 52T).

[Trevor280z]

the lower the clutch bell # the lower the top speed but the faster the acceleration. the higher the spur the lower the top speed but the higher the acceleration. vice-versa for top speed

[megaman]

gearing up, gearing down, i dont know. just look at what trevor has to say. plus with the bigger gears your going to be hitting your suspension arms on every little bump.

[biturbo15]

SAVE ME ANYONE:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

i took your advice, and richened my car, so now i run at 2 1/16 turns, but why is my engine still hot?

I havent had any problems that come with overheating, im just noticing it gets really hot after i run it for about 15 minutes. Should be worried or no?

And what heatsinks fit the torq 16?
thankyou

[biturbo15]

yeah, and you know whats wack? i bent my shock! I went off a little lip, and now the shock is blown! Ive done harder stuff to my TYCO! what shock should i get to replace the backs?

[megaman]

man, how the heck do you blow a shock going off a little lip?!
if you want new shocks you could get a nice new set of 3" shocks, thats what size they are.

[biturbo15]

i dont know dude, but i managed...

I just took it apart and its tharshed.:(

good news is that i all ready know what back shocks im getting!

SCREW 3" im goin 4!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD262&P=0
its crazy but i think it will be a great improvement!

what about heatsinks?

[megaman]

4" shocks wont work, if your thinking of putting them on the upper shock mounts, then you need 5" shocks. 4 insh shocks will be too low.

and i dont know of any other heat sinks that'll fit

[biturbo15]

good lookin out dude,

but if those dont work, than ill use these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBCM7&P=7

im confused y they wonk work, but you know everything so i wont doubt u. Plus i cant stay with these 2inchers.

MUST GO BIGGER!

[megaman]

well, i have to look out for ya'. i dont know everything, i sure try though, thanks. and yeah, those shocks'll work, i just did some measuring, they'll fit perfect, i noticed that the max mt shocks are too long, and would put stress on the cvd's.

[sven_one]

I got new wheels and tires today at my LHS. I was out bashing in the snow and they worked really well, a hell of a lot better than stock tires. The wheels are much stronger too. The wheels are HPI MT Mesh wheels and the tires are Pro Line Masher 2000's. Check out the pic.

[megaman]

...i hate you. jk, love the truck!

[biturbo15]

Yeah dude, sick setup!

hey will the .15cv-rx w/rot "drop in fit" the ST PRO?
And what is the difference between .15/.16/.21 besides size?

[supernitro_guy1]

Nce truck!, hey, my brother bought an ST, it looks pretty weak, do you think it is?, he hasnt ran it, but my cousins rush and HPI MT look alot stronger, dont you think?

[megaman]

dude, these trucks are tough. probably tougher than the hpi's, just give it a chance, youll see.

[sven_one]

I hate my recoil starter. Yesterday it stopped recoiling, so my dad and I fixed it, and it did it again today. I can't even start my truck. Did I mention I hate the recoil? Is there any type of electric start that would fit on the Torq 16? I'm gonna try and fix it again, but if I can't I'm looking for ideas. Thanks

[megaman]

i had a similer problem, what happened with me is that the screws clamped the pull start making it so that it couldnt recoil. i ended up having to take out the screws, locktite each one, then screw it in and back out about a turn, that way it let the pullstart recoil. if you know what i mean.

[Trevor280z]

why dont yall use a starter box? when i had my .15 cv-x, the one way bearing kept getting dirty to a point where i had to take my pull start off each time before i started it to clean it or it would slip. it was annoying

[rushmadness]

LOL it was hilarious today my friend and I were jumpin our trucks , I have a HPI nitro rush, and he has the Max st, and we went off this huge bmx jump at his house and he hit a cow on accident, the cow was fine but his maximum took out an a- arm! haha!

[megaman]

man im so pissed off, ive been working all weekend cause my dad said that if i did hed give me money to fix my max, and when i was done working and ordering the parts my little brother started complaining about how i got all this money for working all weekend when he has to work all week for his for his allowence, so my dad took the money back, now i cant fix my max.

[eeyore65]

Megaman , what your dad did , that really sucks. Maybe he will give it back to you later when your brother is not around.

Sven , how about a "Yank Eliminator" instead of the pullstarter?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG87&P=7
They make different sizes if this is not the right one.

Well was running my ST Pro sunday (offroad) and now the diff gears are stripped.:mad:
I'm gonna upgrade and get the steel gears and see what brakes next.

[megaman]

yeah thanks but i dont think my dad'll give me the money, last night he was giving me a lecture about how alot of stuff needs to be done around the house, and that i need to do more stuff to get the money. he seemed to forget that that morning he said if i do the stuff he said he'd give me the money, thats ok though, im going on strike. ill show him, lol.

yeah thats whe right starter thing, i was going to get one but 30 bucks is quite a bit. but if it'll help then get it.

[tamiyajoe]

yo electroTEEN, wat pipe do u use with that 360 header? i was thinkin of buyin one

[sven_one]

Anyone want to trade their yank eliminator for my broken recoil. It broke again today after I had jsut fixed it...I didn't even get it started. This sucks. Does anyone have a used yank eliminator that they want to get rid of? I don't really want to spend 25 bucks to get one, since I've spent over $100 in the past week and a half. If you have one that you want to get rid of, let me know. Thanks :mad:

[megaman]

man, how can you be going through pull-starters so fast? are you contantly checking your glow starter, is your glowplug bad, are you priming it too much? you might be able to find one on ebay, youll have to pay extra for shipping, but hey. i went through my pull start about 3 times, now i use twine b/c the original cord got too small, it works good. not that im recommending it, i just dont see how you can do that.

[SteveH]

Just make your own yank eliminator out of a old socket extension and the one way bearing. Cut the end off that attached to the ratchet and find a socket that will fit on the one way bearing put that on the extension and away you go. Done that many times on the 15 pros. I'm not sure on the size socket needed for the Torq. 16

[Trevor280z]

heres some pics of my truck
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/eeecc8b/bc/My+Photos/Max+1.jpg?bcGNdM.AhDPb.698

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/eeecc8b/bc/My+Photos/max+2.jpg?bcGNdM.A7pDXfXTI

if those dont work

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/trevor280z/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t

hop-ups:

O.S. .12 cv
Aluminum suspension arms (natural)
Aluminum Hub carriers (natural)
Aluminum Read Hubs (Natural)
Dynamite tuned pipe(ported and Polished)
Duratrax exhaust manifold
Hitec HS645MG steering servo
Futaba s30003 servo for throttle
13 tooth clutch bell
Boco and Duratrax bearings throughout
Metal Bevel gears in diff
Duratrax blue spings all corners
30 wt shock oil
RPM clawz
Proline Blades in the front
Proline Step Pins in rear
AND THE INFAMOUS MASHER 2000s on duratrax Maximum ST pros

[megaman]

man...none of those links work. sounds like you have your truck fixed up pretty good. im jealous, lol. yeah, too bad i cant see it!

sven, do what steve says, thats what i did for a while and it worked great...up untill i had the bearing like, halfway on, it tore it up, so be careful. it'll be cheaper than any crank eliminator youll be able to find.

[Trevor280z]

the last one should work.. the attachment says its to large. how do you use the radiocontrolzone attachment like sven did in page 9?

[SteveH]

No, still doesn't work. Remember, you can post pics directly and not through a host

[sven_one]

The attachments need to be less than 66 k or so, I odn't remember the exact amount. To get the picture down to that size, make sure it's a jpeg, and shrink it down until it is small enough to post. you should be able to use paint to do it (in the accesories part of the start menu). Hope this helps...I want to check out your rig.

[SteveH]

If you want send them to me and I'll post them shansen@rochester.rr.com

[megaman]

ooh, a pic. boredom got to me. im thinking of a double chassis setup, just for fun. heres the rough draft:http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/764686/1484096/19085505.jpg

[Trevor280z]

looks good. what did you use to draw that?.

steve you got mail

edit: maybe this will work.. i got some new pics http://photos.yahoo.com/trevor280z

[megaman]

ms-paint, and about an hour.

[sven_one]

This is a question I've had for a while, but I keep forgetting to ask it...What is the D/R knob for on the top of the transmitter? I haven't touched it because I don't want to screw anything up. If you could tell me what it is, and how to use/adjust it that would be great. Also, does anyone know of anywhere that I can get an autocad drawing of the max chassis? I would like to do some engineering work to stiffen/improve the chassis. Thanks. :confused:

[megaman]

man, i hate to say this, but i have no clue what this "d/r" knob is for. ive never even heard of a d/r knob. as for an autocad drawing of a max st chassis, all i can say is try to email duratrax, they might not mind you adjusting some things. i mean, what do you have to lose. just ask real politely like:D

[Trevor280z]

what kind of radio do you have... that might help

[megaman]

oh yeah, i forgot. that might help. i was thinking it was the stock fatuba thing, but ive still never heard of it.

[sven_one]

It's the stock futaba radio that came with it. The knob is on the top of the radio to the left of the antenna. The label only says "D/R". I really would like to know what it is. Please help!

[biturbo15]

i think its more for planes or other hobbies so stop your worryin'

megaman the nitro quake shocks fit perfectly and look SICK. i almost had an accident on my car. just joking...:rolleyes:

well i got one for you guys,
are the upgradable aluminum parts lighter?

[megaman]

i almost had an accident on my car? ewwww!! jk.

so you got them already?, dang that was pretty fast. so i was right? sweet!...i mean af course i was right, lol. do they add any height or anything? cause after telling you i was thinking of getting some myself (eventually:rolleyes: ). i need to get my Max up and running first.

p.s. i lookes all over various sites and coulndn't find any weights or weight comparisons, so i dont know which arms are heavier. but im guessing that with the different and sipler design of the aluminum, they would be close to the same, or an unnoticable differance.

[megaman]

ahhh, thats what it is. ok, thanks, but dont be so rude about it...

[sven_one]

Thanks for the info, but give me a break...I just got into R/C about a month ago. Parodn me for not knowing everything about everything. Maybe if Duratrax had included a radio manual I would have known, but since they didn't, I thought I'd ask the knowledgeable people on this board. Unfortunately I got the answer from a complete a**hole. Thanks to everyone that takes the time to answer my posts nicely and quickly.

[SteveH]

Originally posted by rushmadness
Dude sven one ur a dipshit!

D/R is dual rate!!!!! it allows how much your wheels turn whe u steer!!!! its nothing to worry abouyt!

Jesus christ u max st guys are real newbs u dont know even know **** about an rc controller!

With your attitude and mouth, you won't be around here for long

[TRF Drive Hard]

Can we say "Simon says?":D

[megaman]

nevermind. i understand

[sven_one]

I don't really care what happens. I reported him to the moderator. I'm not a narq, he just made me angry. I hope everyone understands.

[megaman]

ah well, life goes on. dude, trevor, im still waiting to see this truck of yours, lol. your album is empty

[Trevor280z]

sorry my album said private use only.. should be ready now http://photos.yahoo.com/trevor280z

[megaman]

yeah, your trucks pretty tight. i cant wait till i get mine fixed so can show you up. jk. but why did you take the engine out of your max, and put it in the losi? does it provide enough power for the max st?

[Trevor280z]

i got the losi for X-mas and i just put that motor into my Max about a week before x-mas. once i got finish building my losi, i wanted to run it so i took it out of the max. im in a huge messed up deal with ebay. i bought another cv from this guy. $70 brand new includes shipping...i won the auction december 27.. no engine. no email. no nothin.. so i filed fraud sometime around the middle of January, and if they dont hear anything fromt he guy in 30 days of that date then they send me back $52.50 which is about 3/4 of the original amount payed..

[SteveH]

Yes, that is a nice t-max (joking) max st. I still can't believe I made that mistake!!! I'm thinking about keeping mine and upgrading it now.

[megaman]

man trevor, that sucks! those cheapskates at ebay make millions and will only give you 50 bucks, because some a-hole ripped you off. GO KILL!!jk.

SteveH, were you going to get rid of your t-max(lol)?!? how could you!:confused: traitor!lol. glad your keeping it now...maybe.

[megaman]

man, you guys are true patriots. lol. well, to whoever asked, the aluminum a-arms are noticably heavier, but well worth it. and im trying to come to a deal with someone who has all the parts i need, hopefully that'll work out.

[Trevor280z]

thought id post something to get this forum back up again. hows everyone's trucks? i take it they're all in solid condition.. well my ebay deal is still screwed up.. oh well.. the losi won a few races for anyone who cares. im ready to go muddin though, which is off-limits for the losi. so hopefully my engine (or money) will get here soon.

[biturbo15]

im about to just give up on the torq 16.

my car is great, if i can keep it running.:mad:
my engine shuts off when i reach high speeds, and i am having trouble starting it, but im not running it THAT lean! i dont get it because it shouldnt be doing this!

o well, give me some advice if yo got it...:o

[CTurbo]

Worn engine sindrome.

[Trevor280z]

worn engine syndrom sounds right to me
maybe you need a rebuild.. but if it was me i'd get another motor.

After i get a motor in my st all my money will be going towards a real car. so it will be back yard bashing for a long time.

[megaman]

man, you guys are getting boring. JK. well, in my boredom/sickness, i started working on my double chassis thing, hopefully ill do the cutting/drilling tomarrow, the only problem is ill need standoffs, which i dont know what to do about. i also got some material for a rollbar, but i still dont know if ill make it to use with or without the body, im thinking with that way i could use one if i change my mind. i dont know, im sick. lol. later

[tamiyajoe]

i have a little prob.my truck runs great, and it idles fine, but here is the problem. wenever i apply the brake, the engine stops. wat should i do?

[BTE214]

Joe, check the throttle stop screw. Turn only the radio on. apply full brake. look at the inside of carb there should be a small gap between the throat and barrel about 1mm if there isn't adjust the throttle stop screw to set it that way

[Trevor280z]

Hey guys, i finally got my money from the ebay deal so i went up to my LHS and they had o.s. red heads for sale for $80.00. didnt have that much so i got a $50 ofna .12 Pro. Same specs. i hope it runs good. but if it doesnt oh well its only $50.

Yeah RCracer's right. your throttle shouldnt close with the break on. if you dont know what the throttle stop screw. its the little black screw that goes in at and angle.

ill have pics sunday. ill be gone all weekend

[tamiyajoe]

first off, rcracer and trevow, thanks alot, both of you were right, problem fixed:D.

but no i have a nother question. how the hell do you take the clutch bell off? do you just pull as hard as you can? or is there an esier way?

[BTE214]

to get the clutch bell off pry off the little silver half circle thing (pardon my technical terms) i use a screwdriver poped it off

[Trevor280z]

haha.. its called an E clip. take a small flathead and pry it off, but be sure to cup your hands around the bell or it will fly off. it should come off with little resistance. when you put it back on there is little grooves in the clutch nut at the tip. put it around those using needle nose but be sure to cup your hands when you do.

[tamiyajoe]

once more, thanks trevor, now i got one more question.i no the groove on the con rod is supposed to face you wen u take off that rear plate, but wich way is the piston supposed to face, is that holl supposed to face the exhaust port?

[tamiyajoe]

once more, thanks trevor and rcracer, now i got one more question.i no the groove on the con rod is supposed to face you wen u take off that rear plate, but wich way is the piston supposed to face, is that holl supposed to face the exhaust port?

[tamiyajoe]

wait, there is no e clip, it is a full circle, it looks like a bearing. i have a torq 16 w/ a 2 speed (max pro)

[Trevor280z]

there should be an E clip, its what keeps your bell on. if you can see the bearing then you're missing your E clip. thats a must if you want to run it. I cant remember what size. look in your manual. For your piston ques. the hole in the side of the piston should go down with the slot in the brass sleeve.

[tamiyajoe]

sry, trev. there is no space for the e clip, and the car drives fine, there is a screw thought. and wat slot? im talkin about my torq 16

[BTE214]

hey trevor how do you like the os .12cv-x in the losi im gettin a gt and was wondering if that was good to power it or go for a .15

[Trevor280z]

i love the .12 cv but if i were getting a GT then i would get a .12 CV-R. the only reason i got a CV was because Losi throws diffs a whole lot more than the GT so i didnt want that extra power. but that stealth tranny will hold just about any engine.

Joe, if there was a screw to hold on your clutch bell then unscrew it. then just work the clutch bell off. there should be a narrow verticle slot on your brass sleeve that goes inside your engine. match that up with your piston hole.

[tamiyajoe]

YYESS!! i found out wat was wrong with my max's exhaust!! the wire thing was WAY to far out, so i cut it, and bent a part of the horizantal wire upward and my body fits fine. talkin about bodys, which fit? links would help.


BTW, trevor, i fixed it , THANK YOU soo much (im a nitro newbie, sort of)

[Trevor280z]

I just finished breaking in the new .12 Ofna Pro. MY Review:

Torque: 8.5 out of 10
Top Speed: 7
Mid Range: 7.5
Tuning: 7

Overall Performance So far: 7.5

I've ran 7 tanks in it so far. I broke it in at 5 using 20% Blue Thunder Race Formula. For a $60 motor, this thing is awesome. Its a great bashing motor. I would buy another one. **only one part about this engine that could keep someone from buying (for an ST) is you need to "slot" or trim the crank shaft so the Max ST's spacer will fit securely around it. Get a Dremel and a ceramic cutting blade i think thats the name and go very slow because its hard to get the crankshaft out without ruining your engine.

[sven_one]

Hi everyone...I got the recoil fixed and it works without problems...I think I was getting the spring too tight. Anyway, I had it out today, and it was friggin awesome. The roads were finally completely dry, and this thing hauls. I love it. Just thought I'd put my two cents in.

[sven_one]

Also, what do I have to do to get the body to fit correctly? After I got the tuned pipe it wouldn't fit. It bows out a huge amount. This causes it to get caught on the front tires when I'm steering. What can I do to fix this, I would prefer not to trim a bunch of the body away. Any help would be appreciated.

[eeyore65]

Originally posted by megaman
heck try it, tell us if it works, itll make it slower though, more torqy

Originally posted by CTURBO
You dont' need those gears, it will make your car very slow.

I didn't understand how larger gears would make it slower , but you were right. Big disapointment. No big deal , i just put the original gears back on.

Now i would like to try a 4 shoe clutch with the torq 16. Any ideas if one will fit , which one?

P.S. I had E-mailed Duratrax about putting the Overdrive ST gears on the ST Pro and they said that it would not work because the 3 mounting holes did not line up.
Well they were WRONG , it fit perfect. Although i had to make a small mod to the chassis.

Thanks for the replies.



:)

[Trevor280z]

if you get a four shoe clutch you probably need a new flywheel that will hold the clutch on. Ive learned not to trust anything duratrax says. They said you cant use a starter box on the Maximum series. WEll guess what, you can.

Sven- i think you can get a Max St PRo body that has the body "bent up" to accomodate the pipe and its done at th factory so it doesnt look half made.

[megaman]

Originally posted by sven_one
Also, what do I have to do to get the body to fit correctly? After I got the tuned pipe it wouldn't fit. It bows out a huge amount. This causes it to get caught on the front tires when I'm steering. What can I do to fix this, I would prefer not to trim a bunch of the body away. Any help would be appreciated.
just do what tamiyajoe did, cut/bend the wire to "pull" the pipe in some, i did this thing where i used two servo mounts and mounted my steering servo upright, then i drilled some extra holes and pulled my gas tank in, then pulled my exhaust way in, it doesnt look the best, but at least the body can cover it.(if i had one:rolleyes: )http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL62/764686/1331450/17351753.jpg ignore the rubberband, it was a temporary sub for my throttle return spring

[sven_one]

I was running my truck today, and I accidentally ran into a curb head on. I checked everything out and it looked ok, so I started running it some more, and all of a sudden it wouldn't go. Turns out my spur gear was missing some teeth. The best I can figure is when I hit the curb my engine slid forward slightly and screwed up the gear mesh. This put too much stress on the tips of the spur gear teeth and knocked some teeth off. Needless to say, I'll be down for a while. Anyway, can I get a prepainted/trimmed ST pro body from tower, or do I have to get one and do it myself? I don't really have the time or space to tackel that much of a job, not to mention I've never done it before. Also, how much of an improvement does the steel spur gear make, is it worth the extra money? Once I tear my truck down, I'll get a pic of the spur gear up so you can see how destroyed it is. Sorry about the long post.

[Trevor280z]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU91

thats the body, sven. you need a decal sheet. Ive heard mixed opinions on that metal spur. i know you will loose a little bit of acceleration but you might pick up a few MPH on top end. ony thing is. if you do crash again, you might damage the clutch bell and the spur. but since the metal spur is only $10 i would try it out. and if you dont like it, go back to plastic.

[eeyore65]

I was thinking of using this clutch , i know the pic shows a 3 shoe clutch but it's the 4 shoe clutch for the OS .12 CZ-R. Will it fit ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD217&P=7
And i was wondering what is better , the one piece wrap around clutch spring or the individual "mouse trap" springs ?

Also if you have noticed on MEGAMAN's truck how the rear wheels are turned inward , well mine does that to , it seems one more than the other. Is this right ? If not i think i know how to correct this.

Thanks

[Trevor280z]

your on your own with the clutch. Try it. its the only way to find out. the back wheels are turned in or "toed" in because you get a littler better traction off-road. better traction means better acceleration. you deffinately want your toe and camber to be the same so i would try to get them as perfect as i could. easy way to do that is count the number of threads on the turnbuckles

[megaman]

well, good news guys, i finally got daddy to get me the parts i need, i should be back up in a bout a week.:D

[Trevor280z]

what were the parts?

[megaman]

well...i go through weird parts. i got a new crankcase, some new screws, some cheapo ribbed tires, 2 glow plugs, a glow starter, 2' fuel tube, 5 antenna tubes, air filter base, and i part i needed for my 2-speed.:rolleyes: the total was about 70 bucks with shipping.

[CTurbo]

The stock 3-shoe clutch is as strong as any 1/10 on the market and very easy to tune.

[megaman]

how would one go about tuning the clutch? so far all i know is to flip the trailing edge.

[massracer]

I have a new Max ST. I am on tank #7 probably and the engine is bogging down and stalling at WOT. Yesterday, it would run fine and wind up all the way and then come back down. I've tried adjusting the high-end needle both to richer and leaner and it seems to have the same results. It idles fine and starts going fine, but when I hit the higher end of the throttle, it boggs down and stalls. If I immediately let off of the throttle, it comes back.
If I set the high-end needle richer, it works slightly better, but still stalls. I've tried running it as rich as 5 turns out and it still stalls! Any ideas?

[eeyore65]

Originally posted by megaman
how would one go about tuning the clutch? so far all i know is to flip the trailing edge.

flip the trailing edge ?? Please explain.

[Trevor280z]

Originally posted by massracer
I have a new Max ST. I am on tank #7 probably and the engine is bogging down and stalling at WOT. Yesterday, it would run fine and wind up all the way and then come back down. I've tried adjusting the high-end needle both to richer and leaner and it seems to have the same results. It idles fine and starts going fine, but when I hit the higher end of the throttle, it boggs down and stalls. If I immediately let off of the throttle, it comes back.
If I set the high-end needle richer, it works slightly better, but still stalls. I've tried running it as rich as 5 turns out and it still stalls! Any ideas?


You might have an airleak. Make sure all your screws are tight and you have a gasket on your exhaust header.

[tamiyajoe]

i like this truck, alot. but i have to sell it. if you interested, its great condition (break in process needs to be completed. its 200 w/o radio but w/ everything else except for fuel.

[megaman]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
i like this truck, alot. but i have to sell it. if you interested, its great condition (break in process needs to be completed. its 200 w/o radio but w/ everything else except for fuel. ...thats not a vey good april fools joke...i hope.:(

[Trevor280z]

i dont think you'll get $200 if it isnt RTR.

What kind of tires do yall run? I run MK2's when im bashing around in the back yard and Proline Blades and Step Pins when im on the track.

[megaman]

so why are you selling it anyways joe? and i agree, unless you have some sweet hopups, 200 is pushing it...i wish i had 200

[Trevor280z]

something is stripped or burnt. I was bashin around in the back yard and i brang it under my deck to refuel. refueled, then gave it fuel throttle and the engine didnt rev up nor go anywhere. Checked my servo, it worked. I have no idea. I hate to say it but i think my truck is just wore out. It doesnt perform like it used to.

[megaman]

maybe the lever on the rotory carb barrel is loose, if it is then it would move but the barrel wouldnt. tighten it up with an allen (or check if its loose)...hope that helps

[Trevor280z]

i know for a fact its not that. Im about to go take apart the trannsmission. Its not my clutch so it has to be something in the tranny.

[tamiyajoe]

ok, im not selling my st!! im soooo happy!it turns out the reason the motor wasnt' running was b/c i was running like a FULL turn too RICH. NEWBIE, yea yea, laff but now my truck runs (ill see tomorow) and after i break it in, im out running like crazy, cant wait

[megaman]

***, your still finishing break-in? you should be dont by now, youve been here since like page 3, LOL...maybe you got a new engine? well, im happy as heck that your not selling it.


why didnt you just ask us???

[tamiyajoe]

i no, that was partially my problem. i sent my motor in and they said something like defectice engine block or whatever you call it, and i got a new one for exchange a some change.

[MikeWz]

Does anybody actually race this car? I have never seen one at the track, and I know that this car isn't particularly fast or strong

[Trevor280z]

ive raced it twice. they only let me drive in novice because of the 85cc fuel tank. And your wrong about the truck being slow and not very strong. at my LHS i can beat the 1/10th XTM .15 4wd 2spd truck. i dont know the name of it. Thats with stock gearing and a .15 cv-x. ive also done a lot of cart-wheels with this truck and it held up perfectly.

[MikeWz]

My friend went off one of those ramptec plastic skate ramps at about full speed. When he landed he bent the chassis pretty bad and broke the rear shock tower. :(

[Trevor280z]

how did he land? the chassis are made of t6 aluminum so he must of hit really hard. he need to learn how to jump. I know i sound like im defending my mom but this truck can take abuse.

[eeyore65]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
i know for a fact its not that. Im about to go take apart the trannsmission. Its not my clutch so it has to be something in the tranny.

It may be your diff gears , i was running mine in the park doing some small jumps and stipped mine.

Upgrade to the steel diff gears , http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAEE2
or the complete Assembly ,
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAEE3

[megaman]

i was going to put what eeyore put but i had to go to school, if it is your bevels, upgrade. also some good news! my parts came in today and i got it put tegether (nothing special) but when i tried to start it i couldnt get it started because the heatsink isnt flush with the sleeve...can i put like a light bead of gasket sealer or something to get a good air-tight connection?

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
how did he land? the chassis are made of t6 aluminum so he must of hit really hard. he need to learn how to jump. I know i sound like im defending my mom but this truck can take abuse.
Actually he landed flat on all four wheels. I know it's aluminum but it's not very thick, and the way it's designed it isn't very rigid. I'm comparing to a XXX-NT.

[Trevor280z]

Originally posted by megaman
i was going to put what eeyore put but i had to go to school, if it is your bevels, upgrade. also some good news! my parts came in today and i got it put tegether (nothing special) but when i tried to start it i couldnt get it started because the heatsink isnt flush with the sleeve...can i put like a light bead of gasket sealer or something to get a good air-tight connection?



Get a head shim for it. I wouldnt put any kind of substance around that part of the engine. Are you sure you just didnt have the head on wrong? meaning the screw holes werent lined up?

Mike. Obviously the ST isnt going to be as rigid as a racing truck. I have a xxxnt, check it out My Trucks (http://photos.yahoo.com/trevor280z) ,
Strong as crap. But the st can hold its own in crashes.

[tamiyajoe]

does anyone think i can fit a trx 2.5 motor in this truck? do you think it would be possible, why or why not? cuz i was thinkin of gettin that 22t clutch bell, converting to single speed, and just let her fly!!

[BTE214]

the trx 2.5 should work but you might have trouble running it with the body on on account of it is a rear exhaust and the e-zstart will push out a little. if you get it i you recommend the adam drake header (i think) or the one on the new mugen mt12

[To the Max]

Is it really neseisary to have the throttel return spring?? I ask becuase i've lost mine, are there and substitutions for it?

[BTE214]

do you mean the spring on the throttle linkage? if you lost yours you can use a piece of fuel tubing

[To the Max]

No i'm talking about the spring that holds the throttle shut and is hooked to the header also are you guys able to get you carb open from it's one mm to fully open

[Trevor280z]

Originally posted by To the Max
Is it really neseisary to have the throttel return spring?? I ask becuase i've lost mine, are there and substitutions for it?


I hope you dont have an AM radio...

[tamiyajoe]

wenever i use my brake, the engine shuts off. i already tightened the screw (on the front of the carb) all the way down. is there any other adjustment i can make? it only happens when i apply the brake.

[megaman]

jeez, i dont know, if you did screw the idle stop screw al lthe way in then there isnt really anything that can be done...you are sure its the right one right? you could try messing with your linkage so that even with the brakes on it doenst let it close enough to shut off, i guess. and a throttle return spring is a must, i lost mine too and had to end up "improvising" ill try to get a pic.

[BTE214]

you tightened the throttle stop screw all the way? you should only tighten it till there is a 1mm gap between the barrel and the carb.

[eeyore65]

If you tightened the throttle stop screw the engine RPM will increase and the clutch would be engaged then when you apply the brakes your stalling the engine.
If all else fails you could try something that i read in a RC boating magazine. Use a remote glow ignitor wiring harness and a micro switch on the throttle servo so when the servo is at nuetral it hits the switch and lights the glow plug.

[eeyore65]

Originally posted by To the Max
Is it really neseisary to have the throttel return spring?? I ask becuase i've lost mine, are there and substitutions for it?
The spring is a safety feature , if your radio dies your engine returns to idle.
Personally i don't like it because it puts extra stain on the servo and kills the radio batteries faster.
I've been thinking about a fail safe device instead.

[tamiyajoe]

ok, ill explaine more clearly my problem. the little black screw on the front i loosened. it is only a throttle stop wen i give it gas (like i can limit how far it opens) but i cant adjust it when i brake. whenever i brake, it closes the throttle completely and the engine shuts off. i think it has something to do w/ that little black thing (where the linkage and return spring go).

[megaman]

no f'en way! i broke a turnbuckle!!! bummer. i have spares though.

nah, the throttle stop screw is to keep it from revving too low and stalling, not to set its maximum, you need to tighten it down.

[eeyore65]

If you tighten the throttle stop screw , the throttle can not close unless something is broken.
I have found on mine in order to turn that screw i have to open the throttle a little then turn the screw or it will bind.

Take it to your LHS and let them look at it. I'm sure they wouldn't charge much , maybe nothing.

Good luck

[rc man37689]

im changing the engine in my max st should i use the same flywheel and clutch shoes? the clutch shoes are in good condition

[BTE214]

you can use the same flywheel if you want it will work if the shoes are fine use them too

[megaman]

Originally posted by eeyore65
If you tighten the throttle stop screw , the throttle can not close unless something is broken.
I have found on mine in order to turn that screw i have to open the throttle a little then turn the screw or it will bind.

Take it to your LHS and let them look at it. I'm sure they wouldn't charge much , maybe nothing.

Good luck i guess im at a bit of a loss, how come when my max is idling and i adjust the high speed needle, it starts to idle faster/with less smoke; but when i adjust the idle needle, i dont really notice a difference? are the names mixed up? or am i just stupid:rolleyes:

[tamiyajoe]

dammit, i cant run my maxx for a while now.

well i found this nice parkin lot for some high- speed fun, and well a long story short, the kingpin and bearing (pro version) fell out and i lost it. im soooo maddd. i just started to have fun too!

[megaman]

kingpin? bearing? i dont know why im lost, but what are those?...i hsould know this by now:rolleyes: . yeah well, i cant run mine...im out of nitro:D

[tamiyajoe]

mega, on the pro version it has alum. steering knucles and alum. C-hubs. now, the king pin is put through a bearing to reduce friction.

if you go here (www.cenracing.com), check out tr4-4wd. its got a .16 engine and the cyl. head is EXACTLY the same as the torq's. there motor (cen)has an upgraded head, do you think we could use this head on our maxx's?

[megaman]

omg! i think those are the same engines, but with differant stamps. if the head is upgraded, then i dont see why it would not help. get it, maybe, i dont know if itll fit exactly. but if they are the same engines, then thats real cool cause on the site it says that they put out 1 hp!

oh i barely remembered, on mxtx some guys selling a max, he has an aftermarket head, check it out and maybe get the same one.http://216.22.104.127/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=18;t=722;st=240

[eeyore65]

What kind of mods could i do to the Torq 16 engine such as porting or whatever ?

[rc man37689]

Whats the cheapest (money wise)engine for this car i could buy (not including the one that came with it)

[rc man37689]

Whats the cheapest (money wise)engine for this car i could buy (not including the one that came with it)

[To the Max]

I'm having a serious problem with the wheels wobbeling. The wheel nut is as tight as i can get it, so i think its the busing in the hub . I was trying to get it out to replace it with a bearing but i'm having alot of trouble, any suggestions?

[megaman]

ive heard that the os cv-x ("x"=pullstart) is a very reliable/cheap/torquey/good-for-bashing engine. its only like 130 i think...dont let the hp fool you. the umm...other guy, youre saying you cant get the bushing out? thats weird, just keep trying i guess. sorry i cant help more but the only real answer is to keep trying.

[BTE214]

To the max to get the bushings out use a small flathead screwdriver and tap them out. I will second the os cvx recommendation. I have the .12 in my rc10gt and it has plenty of power.

[CTurbo]

I have for sale the engine that came with the XXX-NT. It is a .15 with pull start and it has never seen a drop of fuel and it goes for $80. I have a maximum and am shure it will be a direct fit.

[rc man37689]

cool maybe ill buy it

[NitroNB]

hello,

i have a mt pro

how do you fit T-MAXX wheels to the maximum, are there adaptive drive washers?

what happened to the mt pro forum?

[rc man37689]

I extended my chassis by 2-3in. I will have pics up soon.I might order these soon too

[rc man37689]

oops

[rc man37689]

POS it doesnt work but here you gohere- (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/shopping/viewcart.asp?tag=tty)

[rc man37689]

can I put in a XTM 18 RE PS ENGINE?

or is it

XTM 18 RE SG PS ENGINE

Which one is for this car ?
(it says it fits in .12-.15 cars)

[megaman]

the os cv-x is pretty cheap at about 120. from what ive heard, dispite the low rpm/hp they're extremely...ballsy, and very reliable.

[rc man37689]

here are pics of my extension

[rc man37689]

now a battery can fit under it

[rc man37689]

sorry for bad quality 1 more

[sven_one]

I was out bashing today, and I was jumping my truck. The thing is every once in a while the kingpin would pop out of the non-threaded side. It wouldn't be broken, just popped out. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm considering getting the aluminum a-arms to correct this problem as well as to give it some more durability. Other than that, I had a great time...this thing flies through the air. I love it. Thanks for any input you can give.

[eeyore65]

SVEN ,
I've had this problem , actually foresaw it . Because the plastic is soft is why it holds up to impact but it can bend out of shape and those pins pop out . The option of the aluminum a-arms is tempting but to expensive for me so what i did was to use some 1/8 stainless steel tig rod with wheel collars on either side . piano wire would work also , i used what i had . You may have drill out the holes with a 1/8 bit and press fit the rod in place . I only did this to the outer end of the front and rear a-arms . To do this to inner would require some more mods . I have not had any more problems with them .

Note : put the set screw on the wheel collar facing up away from possible damage .
If you need pics i can post them .

[megaman]

i had that same problem, but i found two fixes to solve it (one way cheaper than the other). the first, and cheap one, is to put a small zip-tie around it, so that it cant flex out and release the kingpin. the second, is, sence the kingpins are 3mm, or 4-40, get some 4-40 screws (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD999&P=0) and put a locknut on the other side.

[CTurbo]

I used old Kyosho Ultima with C clips and replace all the shafts.

[caseymou]

I have a max st that needs an engine rebuilt or replaced (.12 torq). What are the direct fit replacements? Anyone want to sell cheap?

[CTurbo]

caseymou , you have mail.

[tamiyajoe]

i ahve a question about my brakes. i just melted my rotor and i think it was b/c the brakes were put together incorectly. should the brake lever touch the rotoe dirctly, or should that moveable plate go between the brake lever and rotor, and the brake plate thing act as anotther brake pad? just let me know how your brake steup looks. pics would be great

[tamiyajoe]

o yea, one more thing. will this body fit?

rite here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRB9&P=0)

[megaman]

oops

[megaman]

i couldnt find my digicam, so no pics. but the brake pad goes between the two plates, then the lever pushes the plate against the disk, and the disk to the other plate. hope you understand.
and that body...fyi if you look in the corner youll see a shell of lexan, those are the windows. theyre there because they made them so you put the in after you paint, so you dont get overspray on the window. so if you flip, all the stress is on the window "bars"

[caseymou]

Is this engine a direct drop in for the max st? There are several floating around ebay for about $60.

[megaman]

no, the crankshaft is too short.

[BTE214]

Yeah Megaman's right the disc should be in between the two plates Here's a pic. (hope it works)

[tamiyajoe]

hey thanksa alot. go up to my other post, will that body fit? y/n?

[megaman]

any other 1/10th body will fit a 1/10 truck with extra trimming/drilling. im not too sure about the strength of those bodies though because the windows are a seperate peice of lexan to keep the windonws free of paint, that means that if you flip, the only thing holding you up is the window bar things....im wanting the new chevy HD...

[sven_one]

What is the best way to reinstall the hex drive washers...I usually just use the center piece from a broken whell I have and crank down it with my wrench. Lately though I have been breaking the shaft right off. Is there a better way to do it, or is that the only way? There is a possibility that my drive washers are worn I suppose, which would cause them to not fit snugly anymore. Any thoughts/suggestions?

[megaman]

i had that same problem (or one similer) where no matter how tight i put the bolt, the hex would always slip. at first i just put locktite on the axle and bolted it down. but eventually that stopped working. thats when i had a little epiphany...you can use the hexes from the front! it works fine (as it would:rolleyes: ) but my hex was so worn that i couldnt tighten down the front as much lest it suffer from friction.

either that or try to fit some different axles that use axle pins...

[To the Max]

Is the duratrax tuned pipe the only possible pipe that i can install on my st

[sven_one]

why would you want anything else?

[CTurbo]

I use the associated pipe but it requires trimming the complete side of the body.

[eeyore65]

I want some really big tires for my ST Pro . About the size of 1/8 scale .
Even if i have to change the wheels , what would you suggest ?
What would fit ?

[megaman]

i would suggest imex 2.2 pullers. there about 1/2" smaller than stock maxx tires.

[eeyore65]

Originally posted by megaman
i would suggest imex 2.2 pullers. there about 1/2" smaller than stock maxx tires.

OK , where can i get em ?

[megaman]

well, these are themhttp://imex.clodparts.com/images/7590a.jpg. heres the site to get them, unless there at your lhs http://imex.clodparts.com/catalog2.2.html. http://www.******.net/media/IM001606.jpg http://www.******.net/media/IM001061.jpg

[Conrad]

When I throttle up a small grassy incline I notice an intermitant sqeaking sound. When I place the truck in front of my foot and put on the throttle I notice the clutch bell and spur gear slowly turning without the wheels turning. The slipper nut and axle nuts are as tight as I can make them. Any suggestions? Thanks

[BTE214]

If your spur moves without the wheels tighten down the diff. It Is the two silver outdrives those hex setscrews should be tightened.

[eeyore65]

Megaman ,
How about these other tires.............
Claw Dawg Tires
G-Hawg Tires

How do they compare in size to the Truck Pull Tires ?
I kinda like the G-Hawgs .

[megaman]

the g-hawgs are about the size of the mashers (easter bunny brought:D ) or masher 2000. and the claw dawgs are about "standard" st truck size; about the size of dirt hawgs or bow ties.

[eeyore65]

Thanks , so for the biggest i'd want to go with the pullers , right?

[To the Max]

Do any of you guys ever have a problem driving in grass, it seems every time i go for a a good steady time on it some gear either strips or my slipper clutch begins to melt????:confused:

[To the Max]

Oh and also i was just curious what every's needle settings are?? I'm finding my engine to run a little on the hot side.

[To the Max]

Do any of you guys ever have a problem driving in grass, it seems every time i go for a a good steady time on it some gear either strips or my slipper clutch begins to melt????

Oh and also i was just curious what every's needle settings are?? I'm finding my engine to run a little on the hot side.

[sven_one]

I was just wondering where everyone went. Let's not let this thread die, post questions or pictures. Don't let this thread die like so many others on this forum.

[Glockster35]

I am new to the R/C Scene, and am off to what I believe is a really good start.

A friend bought the Tower Hobbies ST 15 and brought it to work to show it off, it caught us all on fire to get our own rigs...one of the other guys already has his OFNA Pirate 10, and that thing is awesome...

I spent the last few weeks building a track near our office, and have three decent jumps, and an oval track with banked corners and protected rails (piled leaves) around the entire thing.

I am wondering though if this is going to be a good starter vehicle for me. I don't want to spend a ton of cash right now on hopping it up, but what things should I purchase to keep it running right. I already have afterburn oil, 30 and 50 weight shock oil, a complete screw package, new street tires and wheels...what will I break often and where do you buy your Duratrax parts.

I live in Germany, so I have to be concerned with shipping rates and time of delivery. I purchased my car over a month ago, and tower hobbies still hasn't gotten it here...so they won't be getting much more of my business.

Sorry this is so long, but I am excited about getting it here and getting it broke in.

[megaman]

well, in honor of sven-one, and you of course,ill respond. my max st pro, is awesome, i just was myopic and didnt learn how to tune right away so i struggled the first few months. word of advise, learn all you can about tuning, it just helps that much better, plus the engine isnt the best...neither are the tires. your first upgrade should be better tires, and run the engine for all its worth, then upgrade it. you dont really need anything to keep it good except everything you and i mentioned. its a TOUGH little truck, and wont break. also make sure you loctite all the metel to metal screws, and always make sure the axle bolts are tight, and everything else in the drive line are tight and loctited.

in other news, i got some new tires, i got tired of my stock "slicks". i got some mashers, for the front and some masher 2000's for the back. its a weird combo (despite the names) but it workes...quite well, and its all my bunk hobbyshop had. sorry for the long post, just making up for all i missed.

oh, and me and my friend were working on a little video, and im working on a counter-sunk-laminated chassis. but the vid will be delayed cause those fox glow plugs arent as good as i thought. oh well, time for the chassis i guess. later

[Glockster35]

What parts do you keep in your track bag or box that you bring with you to the track?

What parts regularly break on the MAX ST PRO?

Also what types of items should I purchase to keep my truck running right? I already have after burn oil, but am not sure how to use it, do I put it in the carb or the cylinder hole. I also have blue locktite, and air filter oil, with three extra air filters. I bought three fuel filters to make sure the fuel is clean, and plan to put one between the tank and the muffler. I also have a full spare screw kit. All this and I still don't have the truck...a month in the waiting.

What do most of you use for supplying power to the receiver? Is there a set of rechargeable batteries that I can buy. Also what do you do to keep this stuff dry, and free from bounce.

Am I forgetting something important or that will make things easy for me.

Lastly is anyone else annoyed in the way this message board is set up? Why can't the moderators set it up so that each manufacturer or vehicle has it's own forum or directory, instead of one post containing a bunch or posts of a personal nature from one user to another...

Does anyone know of a different forum or bulletin board with information on the MAX ST PRO.

[megaman]

i dont really go to a track, but whenever i go out with it, i always make sure to have an extra spur, as most of the problems i have are in the drive train. ive never broke a suspension arm, but you could get a set just in case. an extra set of turnbuckles would be nice ( i snapped one when i crashed into my ankle:rolleyes: ) i dont really have a part that regularly breaks, so i cant help you there, save the "standard" spare parts. extra glow plugs are good to have, god forbid you get all the parts and foul a plug :mad:.

for the after run oil, i never use it unless im not going to run it for a prolonged period of time, but when i use it, i take out the glow plug (make sure that the area around the plug is clean, lest you have debris fall into the engine) and put a couple drops and crank the engine a few times. then put the glow plug back and put a couple drops where the air filter is, do the same. then let it sit.

i think three fuel filters is a bit much, you only need one, between the tank and the engine. ones not needed for the stinger.

for the batteries, if my dads money allowed id get some reshargable Nimh from the store, and a charger. or you could get a reveiver pack, and buy a charger. both work well. for the time being im just useing alkalines. if youre gong to be going through water, then you should "balloon" your electronics. im not quite sure what you mean by bounce, but im pretty sure the answer is to secure it properly.
and maxxtraxx.com has a max st forum under the 10th scale truck directory. im megaman there too.

[Synthesis5]

hey everyone ,

im a newbie here and i was just wondering if i can get some insight from you guys as to which direction i should go with buying my first nitro.

i was interested in the nitro evader st rtr, but i went on tower hobbies site today and seen that the next arrival will be in mid june. :mad: just a couple of days ago they said it was going to be availabe in early may. so my next decision now is to go with the max st pro. now im very new to this hobby thing, so i really dont know much about all the technical stuff you guys are talking about, but im sure with time i will learn. which truck is better? less maintenance? and all-around funner? evader or st pro?? and what are some of the issues i should be aware of if i do choose the max st pro?

need some advise fast, so i can make my decision with the money right now.

[sven_one]

I just got done completely disassembling my max and cleaning it. I thought you all might like to see it.

[sven_one]

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[sven_one]

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[sven_one]

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[BTE214]

evader or st pro

If your lookin at the evader why not go with the gt plus? It's a better truck for racing and bashing. But if you want to stay in duratrax because the stress tech or whatever and can wati that long I would definately go for the Evader over the st pro.

[Glockster35]

My ST Pro finally arrived yesterday after a month and a week of waiting.

I am impressed with everything included in the combo deal from Tower Hobbies. Although I had to replace the "C" cell for the glow starter within minutes of putting it in.

My only problems so far is the right rear tire keeps coming loose, causing the truck to just sit there. I guess I will put a bit of locktite on it. And two of my tires are wavy, causing a lot of turning issues and steering problems.

[megaman]

im sorry grokster, of all the things i told you i forgot to tell you that the right rear needs to be cranked down, unless you do the pin drive convo. what i used to do was put locktite on the hex and the bolt and really crank it down (dont strip it!). also if the tires are lopsided or something, you need to drill them, its easy you just take like a 3/16 or 1/8 drill and put one on both sides of the inside of the rim, that way they can "breath", that is, they can vent under pressure.

[Glockster35]

Where can I get this pin drive combo...

I now have almost a half gallon of fuel through the truck and it is amazing. Jumped it a few times today and am impressed with it's abilities.

I had to run out and get some shoe goo though, because some screws kept backing out on me.

I lost the screw and bearing holding the front hub in the lower side...so I am out of commission for a while.

More news later.

[eeyore65]

I just found out that the park where i run my ST truck and electric boats will not allow anyone to run nitro cars or trucks anymore , $200 fine .
I don't get it . I guess maybe they deem them too dangerous or something . So now it's just gonna sit on the shelf until i decide what i'm gonna do with it , probably sell it .
This sucks .

[cool car]

Hi I was wondering where I can go to get different spur gears for my truck. I want to get gears for top speed and more gor acceleration.It will be going on a pro version st.Anybody know of what will fit and suggest how big I can go or low.

Thanks Dave

[Glockster35]

Well, less than a week of having my St Pro have passed.

I let my 7 year old drive the truck for the first time today, and he was doing really well. He was driving around an oval area with a grassy area in the middle, but what I didn't take into account was that he was much shorter than I am, and he lost sight of the truck.

Needelss to say he stuffed it under a large rolling garbage dumpster...Cracked the body, smashed the body, snapped the rear hinge pin out of place and it really looked bad.

After inspecting the damage, it took me less than two minutes to fix it all up (with the exception of the body damage). Thanks Duratrax for making a truck that could withstand this kind of abuse.

Then I brought it home and ran it in a parking lot across from the house. I lost momentary control during a spinning burnout, and ended up hitting a pole. I broke the turnbuckle attached to the steering rod on the left side of the truck.

But thanks to the advise of others on this board, the turnbuckles are already on their way here. Should be here Monday or Tuesday. Actually the truck is still driveable without the turnbuckle...just can't take sharp turns.

Another problem I have noticed is that I am burning out glow plugs quickly. I had three to begin with, all of which burnt out by yesterday. Today I got an OS Racing Titanium Glow Plug and it seems to run much better.

One of these days I will post pictures of it.

[Glockster35]

I'm going to try to link to some just taken pics of the St Pro. Bare with me, I am using Webshots...

Body Off view
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=59644345&photoID=72615415&security=ViwHyE

Body On View
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=59644345&photoID=72615461&security=udDqLO

Body On View
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=59644345&photoID=72615511&security=EpCtxr

Body On View
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=59644345&photoID=72615562&security=ZxcuXj

If you would like to know something about this truck, please let me know.

[psychowithnitro]

i need a new engine for my max st
i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions

i also want an engine that could drop in to it

[Glockster35]

One Last Picture for today.

I just spent the last few hours taking the entire truck apart, cleaning it and putting balloons on all the electronics. I think I am ready for just about anything now.

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=59644345&photoID=72627470&security=hCOvxw

[Glockster35]

Psychowithnitro,

I think that if I were looking for a new engine, I would opt for the OS 15CV-X, which is a direct fit for the Maximum ST/MT chassis.

I have read and heard good things about OS engines.

If you decide to go to anything other than that, I would consult your LHS, the company who makes the engine, and Duratrax to make sure you won't have to do too much cutting and chopping to make your new engine fit.

I don't know of anyone else who has replaced their engine in the ST/MT chassis yet.

[megaman]

[i]But thanks to the advise of others on this board, the turnbuckles are already on their way here. Should be here Monday or Tuesday. Actually the truck is still driveable without the turnbuckle...just can't take sharp turns.[/B]

that was me!

yeah, i know the trucks durable, (no, i KNOW). but too bad the pic dont work.

but for an engine, any engine that has a long crankshaft will work, because you have the adjustable mounts, i did alot of research to find a new engine, so i know that if it looks like it'll fit, it'll fit. just remember that. but if you get a high performance engine (i know someone who has an ofna 8 port .21, and someone who has the team orion wasp) you need to get the upgraded dif gears, or diff with upgraded gears, also if you dont have the pro, you need the aluminum idler. dont worry about the two speed, ive landed off a just with the throttle on full (dont know why) with masher 2k's, onto grass, and didnt strip anything.... i want to get the cvr-x.

[Glockster35]

Megaman,

Are you saying my pics didn't work? They are links, if you click them, you will get a new window opened up and see the pics.

Let me know and if they still don't work I will try again.

[imanitronut]

Does a Proline Crowd Pleaser fit on the MT? or one of the GMC Sierra bodies? I know any body will mount on it, but was worried about the wheel wells matching up.

[BTE214]

The pics dont work because that's your page when you upload pics or something. Just find where you saved the pics. Then go to browse when you post and click on the pic you saved.

[Glockster35]

Ok, to see my pics, click the link provided

then click Cory's toys

Guns on first page

RC Truck on second page

Glockster35's ST Pro Pics (http://community.webshots.com/user/tahansen24)

[PackerlandRJ]

I just bought a used st pro took it out for the first time. I had some problems I am new to nitro so I could use some advise. It has a os 15 cvrx in it. It ran like a raped ape but it started acting funny no matter how I was useing the throttle or brake the engine would just wind right out to the point that I would have to shut it down in fear of burning it up. The linkage was set right and when the engine was off everything worked fine. The idle set was ok the carb would open fully at full throttle and the carb wouldnt close fully when brakes were applied. O.K. Thats the first problem now when I was running it the engine went to full throttle when I wasnt even on the gas and the bigger gear stripped I looked at the engine and It seems that it shifted causing the gear to strip. I tried to realine it and it seems that the pullstart hits the engine mount and it wont let the gears line up right the clutch bell comes up short of the gears. sorry this is so long any ideas will be appreciated.

[PackerlandRJ]

anyone know where I can get a better manual for the st pro than the one at duratrax somewhere I can see the trany and all other things it doesnt show in the regular manual Thanks

[megaman]

my *new* laminated/countersunk chassis.
http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/61/54/73066154fBngsP_ph.jpg http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/61/68/73066168dfexlu_ph.jpg http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/61/81/73066181dAMNrI_ph.jpg http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/62/1/73066201wuykJJ_ph.jpg this is where i strengthened the shocktower with left over parts.
http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/62/39/73066239xoUfVQ_ph.jpg http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/62/54/73066254TUHvrh_ph.jpg this is the "pin drive convo" i used the rear axle from the hpi mt, and a washer from in between two sides of a bike chain (worked perfectly.)
http://community.webshots.com/sym/image4/6/62/68/73066268hVQgKR_ph.jpg there ya go.

[Glockster35]

Megaman, pics didn't work.

[megaman]

how about a link. you know what to do.http://community.webshots.com/user/megamanturbo

[Glockster35]

Megaman,

Pics look good.

Why did you use the bike chain thing, was it to fill a gap or necessary to fit the parts, and how did you come up with it?

Also, why did you add the turnbuckles to the rear tower? Were you having problems with this part bearking or flexing on landings.

I notice in the pictures that you added an aluminum plate to the bottom of the ST frame, again, problems or just added strength?

How big are those tires? Are they similar to the ones that came on the ST stock, because they look awesome on the truck.

Thanks again for the pics, I appreciate you helping the rest of us out, and showing how it can be done.

Someday soon I plan on upgrading my ST, right now I just want to get it running again, and keep it that way.

If possible, when you get a chance could you list all the mods you have made to your ST Pro, and if they were done for a specific reason, please state this. I will do tha same as soon as I finish this post.

[Glockster35]

Mods I have made to my ST Pro:

I replaced the Stock Air Filter, with one from a bin at my LHS.
- I did this because I wanted to be able to remove the air filter easily, and the stock one was engineered to be held in place with a zip tie. My new one has a smaller mouth on it, and it fits the carb perfectly and hasn't fell off yet. I don't know what car it is off, because my LHS owner didn't recall.

I placed baloons over all electronics and zip tied them closed
- I did this to make sure that my electronics don't get wet, while driving through puddles or in the rain. I haven't done this yet, and don't plan on it, but who knows when I will get the urge.

I added a set of Pro-Line Speed Hawg 2's front and rear on HPI F5 trucks wheels (gun metal grey)
- I did this for use on road, because I didn't want to ruin my Duratrax dirt tires (which will be replaced soon)

I added 30 weight shock oil front, and 50 weight shock oil rear
- I did this to assist the suspension in maintaining it's height, this worked out well for the time being, but I think I need a heavier weight in the rear. This was a marked improvement either way I look at it though.

I currently have the following items on order through Tower Hobbies:

DuraTrax Drive Washer Maximum ST/BX (4) - cause I hate switching them out.

DuraTrax Turnbuckle Upper Maximum ST (2) 1 5.49 - broke one, and want an extra. Next time I am going titanium to eliminate the need to worry.

Tower Hobbies Tower Power Glow Plug (6) - I am going through Glow Plugs left and right, all I can say is get enough to get you by for a while.

HPI Type F5 Truck Wheel Metal (2) - I like the looks of this wheel, and the price is right. HPI wheels fit the ST Pro perfectly.

DuraTrax Bearing 3x7mm (2) - lost one but found it.

DuraTrax Spring Set 1.1-1.4mm Maximum ST (1) - maybe this will help me get the rear a bit higher.

Kyosho Team Silicone Fuel Tube Yellow 3' - I want to add a bit more yellow to the frame.

DuraTrax Flat Socket Head Machine Screw 3mm (6) - Lost one and never found it.

Pro-Line Dirt Hawg 2.2 Front/Rear Truck (2) - these will go on the above listed wheels.

Good luck!

[megaman]

hmm, mods and reasons. well, in chronological order, first i moved the exhaust from so far out, to fit more bodies, then, i moved the gas tank in, one reason because i have to get it out of the way of the exhaust pipe, and an added bonus of a more centered center of gravity, i then had to stand the steering servo up instead of on its side, to make room for the exhaust.

then, i think, i did the turnbuckle on the shock tower thing, i did that because whenever i landed upside down, i saw that it would bend it self and the screws. then i got new tires, obvious reasons, then i did the pin drive mod, because i dont like having to crank down on the screw, and its a pain in the but for maintenence, same as the new dogbones, cause on the cvd's i always had the pin come out. and last i did the extra chassis, i did this for extra security, and i wanted it counter sunk. i too changed the shock oil, something like 60 rear, 50 front. for a while i had swaybars, but then i realized i didnt need them. all of my mods arent "needed" but i wanted to do as many things that are "free" and make it tougher, then ill move to the money portion and better performance

[Glockster35]

Mega, could you cover what it takes to move the muffler inside the frame as you have in your pictures. That is a very cool mod, and one I think I would be interested in doing.

Thanks for sharing your mods with us.

[Glockster35]

I got all my parts in and the truck is operational again.

I have a question though. Once I got t running and re-tuned (I had taken some stuff apart to clean the truck up), I now hear a bit of a whine upon acceleration, and notice that both the large gear and the smaller gear are getting chewed up a bit.

I don't understand why it is doing this as I haven't adjusted anything on the tranny or engine, and I still can't get it to shift gears. Am I possibly running in second all the time...

[Glockster35]

It isn't much yet, but will be soon enough!

Glockster35's St Pro (http://community.webshots.com/user/glockster35)

Anyone know of a Hummer (Hum-Vee) body that will fit the St Pro?

[Glockster35]

Ran the truck for a few laps tonight, and stripped the spur gear. I don't know why, because the mesh was ok.

I switched the 52 tooth spur gear for the 48 tooth gear (second gear maybe) and had the truck running again. But the whine didn't totally disappear.

How do you loosen the slipper clutch on this truck, because from a stop, this thing will roast the tires, enough to leave burn off marks on the pavement.

I am increasingly tiring of this truck. Everytime I drive it I break something.

I placed another order today with Tower...I ordered a metal spur gear, and 2 of the 48 tooth plastic ones. Now I need to figure out where the problem is.

[megaman]

ah, dude. the metal gear is for the one speed. and the two doesnt have the slipper, but you still shouldnt be stripping gears with the proper mesh. you need to check all the bolts: the ones on the bottem, and the ones that attach the engine to the engine mounts themselves. and use loctite. ive landed full throttle (tried a backflip, still landed on all fours) with my masher 2000 on dry grass, from a 5' jump, and havent stripped anything. ive only stripped a gear once. i dont remember how though. sorry to hear that your not liking the truck, if you get mad enough, you can sell it, you dont want to suffer from bad luck...

but, yes, the hummer body will fit the max st, any 1/10th body will with proper trimming/drilling. and even though maxx bodies are labeled 1/10th, there more like 1/9th