Maximum ST/ST Pro forum

[Glockster35]

Is there a way to make the metal gear fit on the two speed transmission though?

I hadn't adjusted any bolts, screws or anything holding the engine or transmission prior to the gear stripping out...so I am at a loss.

Could it be something inside the diff? Because after I switched the gears out, I am still getting the whine and that indicates to me that I am probably going to strip this 48 tooth gear also.

I won't sell this truck, I like it alot, but an really frustrated with the gears now. I am pretty sure I have the gears meshing up right.

[eeyore65]

I've stripped the 48 gear twice .
Each time i had adjusted the gear mesh as per the intructions ( using a piece of paper between them ) .
Well the last time it happened and i replaced the gear i did not follow the instructions , i just "eyeballed " it .
No more whine and no stripped gears .
I guess the paper method does not work for me .

[Glockster35]

So are you saying the whine is coming from the gear mesh? I honestly hadn't thought of that, I was thinking it was in the differential.

I will adjust it a bit and see how it does tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip

[eeyore65]

I hope it works for you , but i'm not saying it's a fix it just seemed to work for me . Maybe a coincidence .

[Privdog]

i've been rebuilding my Max ST still got a bunch of things i want to do to it. the body almost fits. :) close enough for this truck. its 4 years old. anyway heres some pics.
Before

http://www.enertrans.com/rc/STBefore.jpg

After:

http://www.enertrans.com/rc/STAfter.jpg

my first attempt at painting a body. i did ok i guess, my next one hsould be a lot better..

[Glockster35]

Anyone know the factory settings for the Torq .16 engine.

I am having problems blowing glow plugs after about 5-10 minutes of use. And I think it is because of my high speed throttle setting.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Glockster35]

It worked, I adjusted it by eye this time, and had no problems with the gear mesh or stripping gears.

I am having issues with blowing glow plugs very quickly, and am thinking it is the high speed needle setting.

Anyone got the stock settings?

Also was reading where some people on the maxxtraxx forum were sealing their differential with epoxy...would really thick axle grease work to do this also? I know they use 10,000weight to lock the diff's on the Ofna Pirate 10.

[Glockster35]

This order should be here Tuesday.

1 DuraTrax Spur Gear 52T Metal Maximum MT
2 DuraTrax Spur Gear 48T 2-Speed 2WD Maximum
1 Kyosho Car Aids Metric Screw & Nut Set
1 Tower Hobbies Build-It CA+ Medium Glue 2 oz.
4 Lunsford Racing Turnbuckles 2-3/8"

By Wednesday of the week after I expect the following order to arrive:
4 DuraTrax Spur Gear 52T 2-Speed 2WD Maximum
1 RPM Black Front Bumper T/E-Maxx In stock
1 Atomik 1/10 F-150 Flame 2 Blue/Orange Baja RC10GT

I need to place another order soon for more glow plugs...this is getting to be an expensive hobby....if the wife knew how much I was spending she'd castrate me!

[save1992]

do anybody know what i can do about the way the hex nut go on the cv shaft they don't stay secure on the shaft it's a silly setup most trucks have pins to secure the hex nuts what can i do because the since the hex nuts aren't secure the cv shaft can't turn the wheels help help and more help:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Glockster35]

As I understand it, you can purchase the MIP CVD set for the HPI RS4 MT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB74&P=7)

Then all you need is a small washer on each side to make the fit tighter.

I haven't tried the mod, but have heard from others who have. It's still a month or so away for me.

What I have done is used shoe goo to lock the hex nut, wheel and drive washer all in one piece, but it still is removeable if needed. It has yet to come undone on it's own.

Hope this helps.

[Privdog]

hey all.. how do you get the wheel shaft outta the hub on a MaxST? either im missing somthing very simple or mine are stuck.. im probably missing something though.. 1st time i've taken this trucks apart.. just wanted to get those bushings outta there.
thanks,,


-Mike

[megaman]

if you havent got the hexes off (stupid pressure fit design, you need to "pry" off with something) then there is no reason they wont come off. maybe your not pulling hard enough. lol

[Privdog]

Originally posted by megaman
if you havent got the hexes off (stupid pressure fit design, you need to "pry" off with something) then there is no reason they wont come off. maybe your not pulling hard enough. lol

really? lol ok i'll keep prying on the damn things then.. guess i need to pry harder, little more WD maybe..

[Privdog]

that has got to be the worst design ever.. i got the nuts off.. stuck a flathead under the nut and gave it a good solid tap. now i can figure out how to get the dang things back on.. does it need to be done with a vice or what? this pressure fit stuff is for the birds.

[megaman]

what you do is put the hex, then the tire, and you hold the axle or put a screwdriver in the slot (on the front axle) and tighten down...hard i sometimes locktite the hex to the axle and the bolt to the thread.or if you have like twenty bucks you can use axle pins and/or hexes like AE, Losi, etc. what you need are rs4 mt rear axles (2 sets) and either the rs4 mt dogbone or the maximum st dogbone, then you need axle pins and/or hexes (depending on the rim) and spacers. i found out that the little silver spacers between the two sides of a bike chain work perfectly. ill provide links and pics if you want.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by megaman
what you do is put the hex, then the tire, and you hold the axle or put a screwdriver in the slot (on the front axle) and tighten down...hard i sometimes locktite the hex to the axle and the bolt to the thread.or if you have like twenty bucks you can use axle pins and/or hexes like AE, Losi, etc. what you need are rs4 mt rear axles (2 sets) and either the rs4 mt dogbone or the maximum st dogbone, then you need axle pins and/or hexes (depending on the rim) and spacers. i found out that the little silver spacers between the two sides of a bike chain work perfectly. ill provide links and pics if you want.

that's funny.. i've been thinking about this for two days or so, not a whole lot but, just 5 minutes ago i was sitting on the couch and thought why not "pressure" fit it back on with the wheels.. so yeah lol.. i'll try that.. if this will work for now it'll be fine, i would like to change it eventually though. i now see how this could've been one of my problems with this truck get very little power to the wheels. i'd like to check out the links jsut for refrence, no big hurry though.. if you got the links handy post 'em, if not no big deal. thanks for the help..

-Mike

[Maxxxxst]

What are CVD's ? are they the half shafts that attach at the gear box and go all the way out to the wheels? Where can I buy CVD's from? what company? Has anyone in this fourm added a Ram igniter to there truck? :confused:

[Maxxxxst]

When I spin the wheels on My truck the spur gear seems to woble from side to side and the little spring tensioner thing is tight so why is it wobbling?
The left rear wheel-tire has a lot of play to it .. if You push on the top of the tire or the bottom while it's sitting on a flat surface the wheel-tire will move without the truck,or any of the suspension moving (yes the nut that holds the wheel on is as tight as it'll go, Will bearings or universal dog bones (hop up parts) fix this problem?

Does anyone in the forum have problems with the dog boes coming out? mine come out no matter if the truck is at full ride height or set as low as it'll go, any ideas on how to keep them on the truck when You jump the truck?

Will the hop up part universal dog bone axles come out of the couplers on the gear box assembly after a jump? I'm thinking of buying a set.

Does a Ram igniter (or any aftermarket glow system) make it so that You can have Your truck running without having the carb screws set exactly right?

[Maxxxxst]

I have a problem with My dog bones coming out when I jump My truck over things .. will Universal dog bones (the hop up part) stay in the coupler? (I guess that's what there called) which is where the dog bones slid into (which is part of the gear box)

My Spur gear wobles when I spin the tires , the spur gear is the metal hop up version .. is there any way that it could be bent? or is My gear box bad? I think something is definitly bent.
When I spin My rear tires (when the back tires aren't on the ground and the truck isn't running) .. if I spin one it'll spin and the other won't & the spur gear won't move and vis versa Is this right? or is something broken?

[megaman]

have you tried putting slivers of fuel tubing in the outdrives (the "couplers")? if you do then it may keep the dogbone from moving too far into one/out of the other to fall out, try that. also when you say universal dogbones you meanthese (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTS98&P=7) right? if then yes, they will help, but they're discontinued, youd have to get the cvd's (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNR0&P=7). about your gear, i dont know. is it wobbling as in your able to shake it? or as in it stays put but curves side to side? if that i think that its made that way so it wont wear out one little spot on the clutch bell. your tranny, i dont know that either. i think its in your diff. but take your tranny apart and check everything out...thats all i can guess.

[Glockster35]

I think you should try upgrading to the new style CVD's through Durrtrax, they are a replacement part and were designed to work better than the original universal shafts.

As for the glow igniter, I don't know...if you are trying to get by with improper carb settings, you will eventually ruin the motor by overheating it or something else may happen. You will also probably go through glow plugs pretty fast.

As for the gears, take it all apart, and inspect the operation. I think you will find something in there broken or bent.

Don't be afraid to take the thing apart...it's part of the hobby, you will figure it all out in time.

[Maxxxxst]

Thanks for the reply :)

[Maxxxxst]

Thanks for the links. The spur gear stays put but wobles side to side.

[Glockster35]

Guys I got my truck running again. The rebuild was easy enough. I also got my Stinger kit from MIP, it;s the 360 kit for the Losi GTX.

It looks like it will fit up nicely, but the muffler screws are too short. MIP and tower show them as 4/40x1, they almost make it out the other side of the engine case...not quite though.

The torq .16 lists their muffler screws as 3x30 mm, but they are too thick to fit into the 360 kit.

Are there some screws I can buy to make this work, either with or without the correct threading. If it's without I'll also need some screws to hook it up.

Anyone got ideas?

[rc man37689]

Im going to get a fantom .15 in my max! is that a bit say OVERKILL?no i want to know is it?what else do i need for this transformation so the car doesnt break ?like the engine breaking the transmition.
also what pipe?
what about the cvec?
will it fit?
its the

F1020 FR15 '03 Side Exhaust, Rotary Carb, Pull Start

[Maxxxxst]

I think that the shaft that the spur gear is on is bent .. I don't know exactly how that happened but I think that's why the spur gear wobbles,
The truck has crashed a few times like the first day of owning the truck (My first nitro) and one time the receiver batteries came loose from the truck while at speed and My girlfriend crashed it once. So I guess that the wrecks could have caused the problem .. oh yeah and one time I jumped an area where two driveways meet and when the truck landed it hit a huge boulder.

[Glockster35]

Yes, even though I think the truck is durable, I believe you may have bent the shaft somehow.

Try taking it apart and looking for obvious signs of damage or bending. It may not be aparent, but I think if you look hard enough you will find it.

Good luck.

[Glockster35]

I don't think the Fantom motor would be overkill. I doubt you will find it to break the diff or the spur gears any more often than your stock gears do.

Just make sure you get it set up right and keep the mesh properly set.

Have you thought about the OS CV-R?

I think I am getting the OS just because I know they have a good reputation. I haven't read much about the Fantom motors.

[rc man37689]

the fantom has 42,000+ rpm 1.2 HP
thats crazy compared to the stock enigine lol

[Maxxxxst]

How much is this Fantom engine?
I would love to have a 1+ hp engine in My truck.

[save1992]

anybody know where i can get the screws that go in the spur gear

[Glockster35]

If they are for the ST or MT Pro you cab simply order a replacement spur gear (which isn't always a bad idea to have a few on hand) they come with the three screws.

If I lived in the states I would send you several from my collection, but you could order the spur gear quicker than my mail would get there.

[Glockster35]

I don't know if the transmission or diff will be able to stand up to a 1.+ Hp engine. I was hearing that it wouldn't hold up well.

If you go ahead and do it, let us know how it goes.

Fantom engines are available on-line at
Ace-Hobbies (http://www.ace-hobbies.com/)

Good Luck

[Maxxxxst]

I took My gear box a part and nothing looks bent to Me but I might order a new top shaft anyways.
Has anyone done any mods to there diff.? I was thinking that I could line up the two couplers that are on the ends and take the diff. a part and fill it with JBWeld then put it back together that way the JBWeld will be like My locker.;)

[megaman]

ive tried locking the diff, and its not really worth it. if you want to mod it in any way get the steel bevel gears. and fill it with think diff grease, if even that.

[megaman]

the tranny and diff will stand up to it, just make sure you have the aluminum idler gear, and the steel bevel gears. thats all you need for a bulletproof tranny.my max (http://community.webshots.com/user/megamanturbo)

[Maxxxxst]

Megaman .. what engine do You run on Your Max ST?

[megaman]

man, im poor, i still run the torq 16. im waiting for a 15 cvr-x, or some nice engine like that.

[Maxxxxst]

I think this site has the best downloadable nitro r/c video I've ever seen http://trilordy.com/trivideo.html

[Maxxxxst]

A while back when I first got My Max ST I use to be able to run like two or three tanks of fuel through it in a row .. I'd refill it while it's running but lately I can't even get it tuned to where it runs consistantly, I have ran many tanks of fuel through it and it still has really good compression.

In like a one hour main how many tanks of fuel does a nitro truck go through?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Maxxxxst
A while back when I first got My Max ST I use to be able to run like two or three tanks of fuel through it in a row .. I'd refill it while it's running but lately I can't even get it tuned to where it runs consistantly, I have ran many tanks of fuel through it and it still has really good compression.

In like a one hour main how many tanks of fuel does a nitro truck go through?

have you ever replaced your fuel lines? sounds like it could be an air leak.

[Maxxxxst]

You don't think it could be that I don't have it tuned right?
No I have never replaced the fuel lines , how do they go bad? I am going to replace them soon a long with many other things.

[Maxxxxst]

how far open should the throttle be at idle? Maybe I don't have the idle screw set right because sometimes I'll be playing and I'll slow the truck down and it'll die, or maybe I had the wrong glow plug or the glow plug was going bad.

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Maxxxxst
You don't think it could be that I don't have it tuned right?
No I have never replaced the fuel lines , how do they go bad? I am going to replace them soon a long with many other things.

it's possible but any small air leak could cause it to seem like its getting out of tune. fuel line is cheap, i keep a bunch on hand..

[Maxxxxst]

Thanks for the reply... I don't know anyone around here that I can talk nitro r/c with , I believe that no one in My neighborhood owns a nitro r/c vehicle. I plan to go watch My second race next weekend .. I've only been to one and it was a on-road race in Okinawa Japan in a large parking lot.

[Privdog]

hey guys.. i recently ordered new diff gears for my maxST, i was hoping the drive gear would come with the right pins but it didn't..it came with two pins but they are too wide, and even if they weren't they are too long. anyone had to replace these pins? i've got one of the old ones but like a retard i lost the other one in the garage somewhere. thinking i might just have to try a hardware store or something.

[Razoo]

Is there any way to use a starter box with an ST Pro?

[Glockster35]

I think you can by removing the pull start and taking the engine mounts off. I haven't tried it but have heard it's possible.

[Razoo]

I'm not sure what you mean by taking the engine mounts off, if I did that what would I mount the engine to? Its my understanding that the problem is with the flywheel, would taking the mounts off lower it in the chassis?

[Glockster35]

yes, if you remove the motor mounts the engine would sit about 1/2 inch lower, exposing the flywheel on the bottom side.

You could also try to find a larger flywheel, but I haven't heard of anyone doing this.

[Razoo]

I see what your talking about, if I take out the mounts and recoil I can lower the flywheel. Will this mess up the gear mesh?

[megaman]

or you can cut off the chassis inder the pull start so that it fits. but if you do, you need a bigger clutch bell because it hits the brakes. or maybe if you have the pro, you could get the bigger overdrive st gears, and compensate the bigger gears with a bigger clutch bell. or you could just find another bigger three-shoe-cluch freewheel.

[Glockster35]

Not sure about the gears, like I said I haven't done this.

Try it and see...

[dutchboy 618]

Hey guys

I can buy my maximum st in 4 months or so and i was wondering will this .21 engine fit in it??????????????

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_152_153&products_id=2870&osCsid=5b7a57c08007b727423e6bff388c5360

[Glockster35]

Dutchboy,

I am sure you can make that .21 fit, but it may take a bit of work.

If you are able to afford it, try going with the O.S. CV-R or even better yet the CV-RX. They are a direct fit part.

The CV-R has .58 or so HP, while the CV-RX has 1.3 HP or so.

As for the .21 you mention, it doesn't list the stats for the engine, and parts may be difficult to find. Plus the OS engines at Tower Hobbies is $139 for the CV-RX and $119 for the CV-R.

I try to stay away from new engines and companies trying to break into the industry. Let them prove themselves first.

[dutchboy 618]

another question:

Will an t- maxx body fit the maximum st if you buy the t-maxx body posts

[Glockster35]

I don't think you have to get the T-Maxx posts at all. I think you can order a body, paint it, cut it out and then mount it to the posts already there.

Although remember that the T-max is a 1/10th scale truck (many say more like a 1/9th), and the max is a 1/10th...so it may look a bit funny...

I have heard that they just don't look right.

I ordered an Atomik F150 Baja body from Tower Hobbies and have mounted it to my Max St Pro... I like it alot!

My Picture Page (http://community.webshots.com/user/glockster35)

Check out the orange and blue flames...they are pre-painted..

You can also try the F350 (T-Max bodies) if you wish..

[Razoo]

OK thanks, seems like more trouble than its worth. I think I'll stay with the pull start.

[Maxxxxst]

I love Your truck Glock, the wheels look really good ... I can't wait to get HPI wheels for My truck.

Did anyone look at the link with the kewl video's that I put in a reply? I've downloaded every video clip.

[Glockster35]

One thing that I forgot to mention about the Atomik body is that you will have to find a way for the body to clear the muffler.

You can move the muffler in (Like Megaman did) or you can get the MIP stinger kit and mount it up. The MIP kit will require longer screws...more on that once I get mine done. I am awaiting a set from Tower as I write this.

The F150 body is only 6 inches wide, and the F350 is 6.75 or so.

[dutchboy 618]

Hey guys

I was looking at some sites and someone said that you can get a MIP 360 stinger rear exaust but which one do they mean??????


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0098p?&N=P&F=MIPG3059&L=MIPG3082&S1=&S2=&S3=&S4=&C=GMZMIP&V=MIP&I=&G=2&U=Y&M=GM

[rc man37689]

for this car you can use
this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRH11&P=7)



or this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUF52&P=7)
and this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRH08&P=7)

[megaman]

hey glockster, if you want to lengthen your wheel base you can flip the rear suspension arms, that will lengthen it just enough to match the atomic body and it'll be up to legal specs.

[save1992]

my pull start broke in my st pro what could i do instead of getting another pull start:confused: i really don't like pull starts

[Privdog]

Originally posted by save1992
my pull start broke in my st pro what could i do instead of getting another pull start:confused: i really don't like pull starts

get a bigger flywheel is probably the easiest.. if you take the risers off the bottom of the engine it would be the right height, but with the pull start on the engine wont fit on the chassis, cause of the lip on the edge. you would have to get a plate to cover where the pull start is. then of course you would need a starter box. what i'm trying to say is the chassis is set up for a bump start but the flywheel isn't low enough.

[Razoo]

How about a yank eliminator?

[Privdog]

Originally posted by Razoo
How about a yank eliminator?

that'll work too..

[megaman]

what i did for the while that my pull start was busted was take a socket the size of the one-way, and attach that to an adapter then to a power drill. it worked for a while then i accedentally put the one way only halfway on the shaft and i destroyed it. if you do that make sure the one-way is all the way on.

[Maxxxxst]

Does anyone in her subscribe to Radio Control Nitro? What do You think of the magazine?

Where can I find a motor saver super duty air filter for My .12 engine? I'm looking for one because it looks like it's the best.

[Glockster35]

Megaman,

Good idea on flipping the rear A arms...that might just work.

I got the MIP Stinger kit for the Losi GTX installed finally. I had to wait for longer screws to tighten it up. All I can say is WOW. What a difference it makes, not only in the sound, but also in the performance. It simply flies now, with tons more torque and acceleration. Most of all I love the sound of it now, it is plain old mean sounding.

I still haven't had a chance to fit the Atomik body to it yet, but will try to do so over my next days off. I will also post new pictures of the stinger kit and the body.

[Glockster35]

Guys, if you are interested in my review of the MIP stinger kit, look in the other Max St post.

All I will say here, is it was definately worth the money!

[megaman]

itll work. thats what i did. check everything out in my album.if you want more wheel base you can flip the fronts, but you need to do some minor hacking to get the right effect, and you need some spacers, the bearings for the steering work perfect. if you want details ask.
i also sprained my ankle...badly. check that out too.
im looking forward to your 360 review. its funny cause i wanted one for a while. seems im living vicariously through you. lol

[Maxxxxst]

Has any one here ever had both the rear suspension and gear box off of the frame of a Max ST? if so .. I have a part that I don't know where it goes on the truck and I have a digital pic of it but they said it was to big to upload so .. If You know Your way around a Max ST please email Me at HK9x19@aol.com and I'll reply sending the pic of this mysterious part.

[Maxxxxst]

Forget about My last post because I got the part that I didn't know where it went .. in now , it was like a puzzle ..I wish a better manual was avaliable.

I have a Max St (not pro version) & I was just wondering .. with people that use the forum what brand and percent of nitro is most popular. ??

[Maxxxxst]

I just ordered some parts that I needed to get My Max ST up and running again and I'm having problems .. the truck starts easily but dies when I take the glow starter off of the glow plug unless I rev the engine up, the glow plug is brand new and so is the fuel.. the fuel is Wildcat 20% and I use a Novarossi hot glow plug.

Any ideas on what I should do to get this thing running? I miss being able to take it out and tear up whatever surface it's on.:confused:

[Glockster35]

It sounds to me like your glow plug is bad, just because it's new doesn't mean it is good. Try checking it outside the motor and see how well it glows. All the coils should glow a bright orange color.

Replace it and try another one. If it works, then you know what the problem was.

I always have at least 5-6 spares on hand and go through them quite often for some reason.

[Maxxxxst]

Wouldn't a battery that's going bad not make all the coils of the glow plug glow?

This truck is a pain to get running and to keep it running.

I have 4 glow plugs that are the same and then I have an OS A3 and some kind of gold glow plug that Hobby town USA sold Me.

I think that I'm definitely going to buy and install a Ram igniter ignition to see how that can help Me out, even if the Ram igniter goes through a glow plug every weekend I run My truck I don't care as long as I get the truck running and driving well, another option is a JHM? igniton setup which is like $20 dollars more .. and I read the reviews on it and it sounds good.

[Glockster35]

Yes, worn out batteries would also not allow the coils to heat up properly. I assumed you had done the obvious things.

I would take the carb settings back to original settings and begin from there, also make sure the carb is getting fuel into the throat, not just the fuel line.

By doing this my truck almost always starts on the first three pulls.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

how fast does the rtr max st pro go?

[megaman]

for small block engines like on the max stand other st's, i figure most of us go with 15% its between cheap 10% and expencive 20%. any higher than that and you can destroy the engine block and i dont think you get any extra performance.

the max st pro goes "40mph when tuned".

[Glockster35]

I just posted pictures of my MIP Stinger added to the St Pro. Check it out.

Glockster35's Pics Page (http://community.webshots.com/user/glockster35)

[Maxxxxst]

Hey glock .. I like the pistol that I saw in Your photo gallery .. the Springfeild, what is the gun chambered in? 45?

I want to buy a pistol .. I don't think that I know much about guns right now but I love shooting and I'm a very good shot.

Do You know about how much You payed for the Springfeild hand gun? I guess I'm willing to spend like $600 -$700 on a gun.

So far I've only shot a H&K SL8-1 assault rifle chambered in .223 and also a H@K model 70 chambered in 9mm.

[Glockster35]

Originally posted by Maxxxxst
Hey glock .. I like the pistol that I saw in Your photo gallery .. the Springfeild, what is the gun chambered in? 45?

I want to buy a pistol .. I don't think that I know much about guns right now but I love shooting and I'm a very good shot.

Do You know about how much You payed for the Springfeild hand gun? I guess I'm willing to spend like $600 -$700 on a gun.

So far I've only shot a H&K SL8-1 assault rifle chambered in .223 and also a H@K model 70 chambered in 9mm.

Maxxxxst, I will e-mail you off-line, since this is off topic.

[MORTER MAN]

HEY EVERY ONE GUESS WHAT I JUST ORDERED!! YEP YOU GUESSED IT A DURATRAX MAXIMUM ST PRO OFF OF TOWERHOBBIES.I CANT WAIT FOR IT TO GET HERE!I AM HAVEING IT SENT FED EX .Any way any tips or any thing I should know as this being my first nitro.I own an associated L3O and race it so Driveing it wont be a problem.ANY TIPS? PLEASE LET ME KNOW THEM!
Thanks!
morter man

[Glockster35]

Mortar Man,

Take the time to read this forum thoroughly, you will learn a lot about this vehicle. I won't try to convince you that you bought the best truck on the market, all I will say is that you need to make real sure you don't overheat the motor, and that you tune it right.

If I were to do it all over again, I would just get a T-max and run it hard. I have way too much in this ST Pro to give it up now, and it has sat for almost a month. I love the truck, and the mods I have done on it, but it is an expensive sport (at least for me).

[MORTER MAN]

I would have gotten A t-maxx but well...........lets just say I have a gruge aganst them....i USED TO OWN AN E-MAXX.NVM ITS A LONG STORY.i DONT WANT TO RACE JUST WANT TO RUN IF YA KNOW WHAT I MEAN

[mack]

Can some one tell me where to buy a metal spur gears. I am chewing up my large gear every heat.

[Glockster35]

I learned this the hard way, the metal spur gear is for the Maximum ST (single speed), not the ST Pro (two speed). I have yet to find any available for the ST Pro.

There was a place called DuraGears, but they went under a while ago.

Good luck

[mack]

Thanks for the info Glockster. Buy the way I shoot a Glock 35 in IDPA competition. Back to RC, I was also concidering going back to a single speed drive. I am not sure what that would require in parts and hard it would be to do. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Glockster35]

I haven't done this yet, but you should be able to go to Tower Hobbies website, and look up the parts on the Maximum ST. Should be a bunch of parts for the diff.

Or you can go to EBay and see if anyone is selling the entire setup (from when they upgraded to the 2 speed).

I used to shoot my customized Glock 35 in USPSA or IPSC competition. I was a "A" class shooter back then, but that was over 5 years ago. I haven't lived near a club that fired either USPSA or IDPA since then.

I can't wait to get back to the states and start back up.

[megaman]

jeez guys, whats going on??!? i havent heard from you in years!! man. i dont know, my max has been doing good, my bud got an hpi mt and we always bash around...untill we "accidently" played chicken...he got sloughtered, i came out scratchless...were thinking of making a track so that i can show him up with my driving skills lol. i dont know, just keeping you all updated...you do the same..

[Glockster35]

I have been pretty bust with my new job, but I have ran my truck twice since 4th of July. On the fourth while showing it off at a party I burned the spur gears (again).

Last time I drove it, I had a blast. No problems at all. Since all my buddies work a different shift and job, I don't ever see them. I hear they don't even drive theirs anymore, so I haven't been driving mine...boring by myself.

[elctroTEEN]

hey guys im doing sum super mods to my truck!! im turning it into a puller tell me wut u think i need to do to complete this. ive already eliminated the rear suspension, and locked the diff. im not sure where to go next... any help would be appreciated

thnx

[Glockster35]

I don't know what a puller is actually, so I don't know what to tell you.

As for locking the diffs, I have read that it isn't such a good thing with the Max ST.

I added a MIP Stinger kit to my truck, and love the acceleration and bottom end it added, I would suggest it as a mod for your truck.

Othe rthan that...it's all you!

[mack]

Glock, He is building a truck for pulling a sled, like tractor pulls. Duratrax use to sell a sled. Hey, I am having alot of problems stripping out my large spur gear. I get about 5 min. on the track and it is gone. I emailed the factory and got crap for help. I did rebuild my transmission reciently, aone got a good place to start.

[mack]

ElctroTeen, I use to hang out with full scale pullers. You havedone well to make your rear susp. solid. Basics are keep your hitch high so the sled pulls your rearend down, be able to shift weight back and forth, your tires should be very firm, have a few different styles to try, be able to change your gearing easly at the track, if you can. A larger flywheel may help. Our Tmax club is starting pulling comps soon. tell us how you do.

[mack]

ElctroTeen, I all most forgot the best mod. If you can lengthen your chassis. Hugh improvements.

[Glockster35]

If you are going to be pulling a sled, I would think the Max St is a poor choice for pulling.

There are very little hop-ups made for this vehicle, and the gearing is probably the smallest of your problems, but in the end it will probably be your killer.

There are no aftermarket gears available today for the Max St. There are no extended frames available. Tires are limited to the 2.2 or whatever the Max MT has.

Instead of spending a ton of money on building up your Max St, I think you would be better off buying the T-Max and building it up. You would be ahead of the pack, and probably less money out of pocket.

[elctroTEEN]

AS far as the st pro not being a very good puller it pulls my 147lbs with ease. and not to mention it is the only nitro that i have and i like it. i have access to a cnc machining and cad software so its not much of a problem when i comes to little hop-ups. even tho the st i have found is relativitly cheap to fix. thats my opionion. and im not mad... i totaly agree with u on most of wut u said.

[mack]

How about some help with my spur gear, Please

[elctroTEEN]

ON your spur gear if u read back a little it says that there is not any metal spurs available right now for the st pro with a 2 speed. ive encountered the same thing but since i tightned down my engine mounts and loctited the screws i fixed it.

[mack]

I will check that, Thanks

[MORTER MAN]

hello all just checkin in.I have almost broken my st pro in all the way any thing I should know about?

[megaman]

hey guys, just thought id give you a little update... first off, unless its been like that it looks like duragears.com is back online if anyone might want aluminum spurs for the 2-speed, second, im going to be down for a while because i shattered my engine mount and reciever crystal from a jump that was a little too big, on some terrain that was a little too hard lol ;) umm, also, ive done a couple more mods that i cant really take a pic of since my engine is off, but once i get it fixed ill hook you guys up with some updates.

[Glockster35]

Megaman,

Please post the pics when you get a chance.

As for me, I have been driving my truck very little lately. I drove it for about an hour a week ago, and everytime I rolled it on it's top, I could get to it and turn it over, but it would suddenly die.

The ground wasn't very level, so it turned over quite often. This got old real quick!

Another thing that was bothering me was on the pave ment, which was covered with fine sand, I couldn't keep the rear tires from spinning out, which caused the truck to be very difficult to drive.

Had a blast though!

For those of you who haven't done it yet, I HIGHLY suggest getting a temp gauge, and using it. I love mine.

[todd8603]

Help, my diff seems to be screwed.

The clutch engages, spins up the spur gear like nobodies business. Yes, the shaft in the gear is moving at a very high rste of speed but the tires hardly move and when they do they slow unbelievably when put on the ground.

Has the diff apart today and I can't see any glaring problems other than one side shaft can be pulled out a little. It seems to disengage the shaft.

I have installed an HPI .15 and got 7-8 tanks before this failure so I am pretty sure that this wasn't the problem.

Any ideas?

[megaman]

you may need to tighten your axle nuts, if there loose the pressure fit hex begins to slip.

[todd8603]

Thank for the tip.

Diff nuts? Are you referring to the chromed items that attach on the outside of the the diff to the shafts that drive the dogbones? If so, they are tight.

Been thinking about this and realized that when the diff is out of the car and I pinch what (diff nut) together there seems to be no slippage. Although, I do not see washers in the parts diagram is it possible that these shafts are supposed to be shimmed into the helix ghears inside? I am starting to think that these internal gears are worn and as a result are don reach the outdrive gears.
Make any sense to you?

[todd8603]

Had it apart again tonight. Looking at the differential gear, the two inboard ones are pretty sharp from wear. Think it is time to order new ones. They might have been abused by a previous owner.

The latest sign of trouble comes when I try to roll the car but immobilize the spur gear. No resistance on the spur gear. Pretty sure this means bad diff gear.

Any confirmations?:confused:

[megaman]

im sorry for the confusion, when i said axle nuts i meant the bolts that hold the tire to the axle. the chrome peices you were refering to on the diff are called outdrives or drivecups. check your tires, they need to be way cranked down,but dont strip them.

[cbsmith]

I have a Duratrax MT Pro. The bevel gears in the diff on mine stripped as well. MIne was under warranty so Duratrax shipped me new ones. The ones that come in all the MT/STs from the factory use aluminum bevel gears. They are very weak. Duratrax shipped me part number DTXC7355, which are Hardened Steel gears. They also include shims with them. I think part of my problem was play on the out drive shafts because the stanard bevel gears do not have any shims.

Chris

[rc man37689]

THATS IT I HATE THIS POS ENGINE AHHHHH IT WORE OUT ON ME AFTER 2 YEARS OF RUNNING WITH 1 1/2 GALLONS OF FUEL!!! AHHH. ok back on track im going to put a Fantom 03 .12 in it. what kind of pipe? im thinking about buying the duratrax one from a friend for under $10 what are some other suggestions? I have taken the whole engine apart and saw that nothing is woren out , the clutch is good, clutch shoes great,
ect.

any comments or suggestions?

[Glockster35]

RCMan,

Get the MIP Stinger for the Losi GTX. It will fit the truck with no mods, and shoot your exhaust right out the back, plus they just sound good.

Another good thing is that it will give you better acceleration and top speed. I have had mine for about 6 months, and I love it.

[rc man37689]

not enough $$$ for 1 :(

[megaman]

you have checked your needle settings and stuff right? if not try for air leaks: the carb, primer, good fuel line...all that fun stuff. if nothing, then go ahead with your plan. and if you dont have cash, then get what you can.
my own tangent...i made an order to fix my st, i got a new engine...the O.S. cv-rx .12...and all the other stuff to fix it, nothing special. ill tell you guys about it when it comes

[rc man37689]

yeah ill inform everyone (2 people) when i get my engine too

[ST RACER]

I was thinking about dropping a .15 cv-rx in my max st and i was wondering if the hardened diff bevels would be able to support the power. I had some machinists make me a hardened steel spur the same size as the plastic one so i know that will last, the clutch beel seams pretty tough, all the gears in the tranny are pretty good, i've never had any problems with my universals, but i just went through my bevels and i wanted to know if anyone had bought the hardened steel bevels. any info would be good. i want to start racing my truck next year and i got a good job to support me so i want to make my truck be able to keep up with the speed demons. Also what tires are good for hard packed dirt with some loose stuff on top. i'm running with dirt hog 2's for durability but they just spin all the way around my track ( it's my own crappy track but it's good for practice). i've got m2 edge's on the front so it turn's good but then the back end whip's around as soon as i give it gas, sometimes not even half throttle. one last thing, should i keep running red alert 20% or should i switch to odonnel or something (for racing). i'll post some good picks of my st in the air for you fellow st fans soon.

[mack]

ST, If you have access to a machinist have him make replacements for the gear carries. They carry the bevel gears in the tranny. I have melted them in my truck. they will be easy to make they are just flat with a hole in it. You can get many different opinions on fuel. Mine is, if Red Alert is working for you, stay with it. That is what I use in my truck and boat.

[CTurbo]

Once you get that in metal the diff. housing will explode. The next step should be to loosen the slipper to protect the gears and use m2 compound tires (pro line)

[ST RACER]

the gear carries are the washer-like things right? and aren't they metal allready? by diff housing you mean the large metal gear that the bevels are enclosed in right?

[megaman]

allright, i did a lot of stuff to my max st. check it out. ask if you have questions. i also got my new engine, havent broken it in yet, ill tell you about it when i do. http://community.webshots.com/user/megamanturbo

[Glockster35]

Megaman,

You can't just do what you did.

Don't leave us hanging like that...it's just wrong.

What did you get and what did you do?

I can't tell anything from your pictures, it all looks stock to me.

[megaman]

dude, youre quick :) sorry i guess ill explain each picture...
1st pic: thats just a simple shot, i showed the layout of the chassis (the fuel tank, for example) and you can see that i put zipties around the front susp. arms to keep the pin from popping out.
2nd pic: just a pic of the front, dont know why i took that one...
3rd pic:a shot of the rear, if you look around the shocktower you can see that i modded the turnbuckle mount, i cut a section off the tranny so that it mounts lower, that makes it so that as the susp. travels, the camber increases to keep a good contact patch when cornering. i also flipped the hubs, and mounted them on the inner most hole, so that i got about an extra 1/8 in. of width, i also got new dogbones for the extra width.
4th pic:a close up of the hub.
5th pic:another shot of the layout. if you havent noticed i tried to get the weight centered as much as possibe.
6th pic:a shot of the chassis, youll notice that i cut a section to make room for the pullstart, thats because i lowered the eninge about 8mm, better center of gravity.
7th pic:shows how low the engine is.
8th pic: shows what i did to the gearing, i didnt like the two speed, and i moved the main (52t) gear in so it wont rub the susp. arm, i also changed the gear on the clutchbell to the 19t instead of the 15t, so that ill get more top end without the 2-speed, and it makes up for the lower engine location.
9th pic: you cant see but i moved the front susp. mount up away from the chassis so that it wont squat under accelleration.
some of these are pointless, but i like them :) oh i also got a new O.S. cv-rx .12

[rc man37689]

yay ups is coming to town tomorrow yay!!!! fantom!! yay!!
i have already got a new fuel filter (mmm blue) and afterrun and fuel

any way i made a new extended chassis over an inch almost a year ago and i have just figured out its about the size of a t-maxx. i am going to get some kind of t-maxx wheels and tires soon and a F-350 Flame body

any suggestions on good looking t-maxx rims and some good tires?

BTW i have increased ground clearence to over 2 inches by some mods like cutting off the junk under the suspension arms and new shock oil.
pics soooooon


body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRA3&P=0)

I CANT WAIT FOR WINTER LALALALALL IM SOOO HAPPY!!!

[SebastianG]

If i am looking for awesome acceleration, performance speed and reliability, which O.S. engine should i purchase?

up to $120 and i would like to know if that engine will work with 2 speed tranny.

[SebastianG]

Will this be direct fit?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=0

[megaman]

i dont want to be rude guy, but you should read back JUST a bit, i bought that engine about a week ago, fits with the two speed and all. i say go for it!

[ST RACER]

Why if you guys are buying the cv-rx's don't you buy the .15's? wouldn't it kick ace double time? I was just wondering cause that's what i plan on buying. Is that ST with those little chassis susp. stops cut out really better (handling) or does it sit as high as a max mt?

[SebastianG]

Originally posted by megaman
i dont want to be rude guy, but you should read back JUST a bit, i bought that engine about a week ago, fits with the two speed and all. i say go for it!


Sorry, but i just wanted to make sure. How fast is your max st now?

[SebastianG]

What is the difference between 10ER Rotary Carb and w/10C Slide Carb On-Road

?

Im gonna have to get the 10ER Rotary Right?


I might save up some money and buy this next year

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL2&P=0

Another thing, will the duratrax tuned pipe fit this?

[rc man37689]

get the rotary carb trust me



my fantom came and it went sigh :(
the ups guy came but no one was at home sigh :(


(cries i want my fantom waaaaaaaaaa)

[dhutch]

I bought a maximum st (non pro) last week end

very good - only thing is i think the cluch is sliping, im new to nitro and was wondering if i need a new one or what???

oh and i broke the fuel tank:)

[Fizban]

Originally posted by dhutch
I bought a maximum st (non pro) last week end

very good - only thing is i think the cluch is sliping, im new to nitro and was wondering if i need a new one or what???

oh and i broke the fuel tank:)

I haven't had my max st pro long but from what i've read you should scuff you slipper pads with a fine sand paper to give them better grip

[Fizban]

Also why is it you think it is slipping...

[rc man37689]

I GOT MAY FANTOM YAAAAAAYY
lol ill be breaking it in on thursday just need to get a tuned pipe from friend!
now where did my bro put the digi cam? hmmm
pics very soon!

mods and hopups:
custom extended chassis
10-40w motor oil in shocks
drilled holes in shock towers for more ground clearence
blue blue filter
fantom .12 03' rotary carb pullstart
removed primer from tank (i noticed the primer washer on the inside was cracking!!!)
duratrax tuned pipe
monster horspower 20% (my hobby shops didnt have 10 and never carry it anymore :confused: )
after-run oil

future hopups (hopefully)
new tmaxx body
some sort of tmaxx wheels and tires
new shocks? (maybe?)

:)

[ST RACER]

hows the fantom working out for you?
what size of clutch bells are you useing on your max st's one speed.

[Fizban]

i was hoping someone could give me a temp range for my engine...this is my first nitro so i'm not sure what i should run at... thanks guys

[dhutch]

Originally posted by Fizban
Also why is it you think it is slipping...

because when i open her up, it workes ok and then the engine just revs up realy high and the cars slowes down a bit:confused:

see here (http://64.4.10.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN&lah=4eaed8f5bb2c4e21766ce05299be2184&lat=1066932398&hm___action=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eradiocontrolzone%2e com%2fforums%2fshowthread%2ephp%3fthreadid%3d70689 %26goto%3dnewpost)

[rc man37689]

Originally posted by ST RACER
hows the fantom working out for you?
what size of clutch bells are you useing on your max st's one speed.



i newver rode it yet need the tuned pipe! im getting it today and breaking it itn today.
im running the stock 15 tooth 1 speed( i might change it soon if it needs more speed)

[rc man37689]

ok i need help please :(
i tried to start it and the clutch and cluch nut came loose :(
i just remembered i need a piston locking tool and i dont want to get one what can i use instead?
PLEASE HELP ASAP!!
:(

[BTE214]

Piston locking tools are the best bet and they're only 10 bucks. But if not i just thought of taking the cooling head off shoving paper toweling in there and put the head back on.

[rc man37689]

i wouldnt even try to take the cooling head off yet!
i fixed it though :cool:
i put a screwdriver in the exhaust port very carefully and tightened it pretty hard
:)
breakin it in tomorrow
and problably pics too

(WHY IS IT SO FREAKIN COLD HERE??)

[rc man37689]

everything is set back a week or a couple of days :mad:

i had trouble starting my new fantom (it wouldnt start)
so i check and replace everything to start the engine
so today i went to my lhs and they tried to start it and they said it was the bearing inside the engine.
it was soooo hard to pull no wonder


:mad: :(

[megaman]

aww that flippen sucks...i was amped about it too. im kinda down also...i snapped a turnbuckle...so i have to order new ones. that and im also going to fix the two speed...cant wait to see how it rips with the two speed.

[Fizban]

anyone know if i can get aluminum spur gears for the st....keep chewing up the plastic low speed one

[rc man37689]

you can get the aluminum spur gear

here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP19&P=7)

EDIT: oops the 2 speed? i dont think there are any :confused:


im really bummed out about the engine though :( :( :( :(

[ST RACER]

what tuned pipe do those of you with cv-r's use?

[rc man37689]

YAY im getting my car back tomorrow (tuesday) hopefully
they said that it will be good day and they will fix it.

[rc man37689]

YESS!!! my car came back and the low speed needle was adjusted
(that was the problem :o
i cant believe i was so stupid i paid 8 bux. i think they took apart the engine and that bearing wasnt the prob :p
i started her up first pull VVVVVRRRROOOOOMMM!!!!
i love it!! i just need to break it in tomorrow
:D

full report tomorrow
back to you steve
:) LoL

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[ST RACER]

what radio's do you guys have. i'm checking out a hitec lynx 3d with the channel switching. do you think this thing is really worth the money.

[rc man37689]

i dont think you should get that radio its from before the 90s when it came out. I think you should get a Airtronics MX-3 3-Channel FM its $120 with 2 sevos or $104 with 1.


ok i strted break it in and all i can say is WOW! :cool:
i got through 2 tanks before it started to rain :mad:
it fast even while im breaking it in!
i think it going to be WAY faster than stock!
(it might already be faster :eek: )
everything works im sooo happy!! :) :) :) :p

[Fizban]

has anyone else had problems with the cv shafts...mine keep spitting out the cv pin and breaking the housing on the cv joint

[megaman]

yeah i had that problem for a while, then i tried locktite...worked a while. then i got some good ole' bike spokes and slipped them in there, i bent the protruding lenth of spoke so that even if the screws came loose, itll still hold in there. its a bit un-common, but it works good, there still in one piece.

[dhutch]

Originally posted by RCracer214
taking the cooling head off shoving paper toweling in there and put the head back on.

nah - tis much easyer to just post a lenght of string thought the plug hole (that was we do with our karts an all )

[dhutch]

i have a the non-pro ST and was wondering what upgrades i should make to improve perfomeance on a budget (of about £30-40)

im certainly getting the ballraced wheel bearings - cos there all ready shaged :mad:

and i need to diffrent tyres - for use on shortish grass (often wet) and tarmac (also wet and dry)

finaly - how can i stop the ruddy pipe falling offf:(


thanks daniel

[BTE214]

has anyone else had problems with the cv shafts...mine keep spitting out the cv pin and breaking the housing on the cv joint Put a little bit of heat shrink tubing over it and heat it.

[ST RACER]

You need to get the bearings. You should also get the tuned pipe and universal axles. The axles won't add speed but they will add to the durability of the truck because the dogbones dig into the wheel axles and create play. It's not a major thing but i think it would be wise if you did.

[ST RACER]

Are s9450 servo's worth the money they cost. Do they really make that much of a difference, and will having digital servo's make it so i have alot less run time on my 6v 600mah radio pack.

[megaman]

id say go for it, if you can get a digital servo for cheap, and an airtronics one at that, id be all over it. it will decrease your battery life though cause they have a faster sample rate. the servo is dicscontinued on towerhobbies.com but you can still get the gear set. btw i got bored and strapped a tc3 body to my max st, i was even able to use the tc3 body mounts which worked out perfectly. i also rearranged the chassis so it has a better, more balanced layout (rc10gt inspired). but hey, check it out web shots (http://community.webshots.com/album/95273851WEtZbp)

[megaman]

yeah guys this engine is crazy fast with the two speed, no cussing on here but yeah...i was cruising around my street racing cars, theres a little stop sign and whenever a car pulled up to it id get next to the car and rev it. the stupid cars would try to take off all fast and id kick back with the car, then id gun it. and with the servos and reciever the way they are, the front end would pop up and id fly from the car...it was the coolest thing ever, fun too. then this dude on a dirtbike with a 5 speed wanted to race, i said allright, we went at it and i was in front of him untill he hit fifth, then he passed me. he said that thats crazy fast cause hes going 50 when he switches to fifth. yup then i set up a jump, i was getting crazy air and doing backflips and stuff. yeah im just updating you guys cause there isnt much action from everyone... seeya

[ST RACER]

well, i'm ordering my .15 cv-rx w/ 10 er rotary carb, i'm also getting the hyper head from os, i'll get to see the difference turbo heads actually make. Also getting a new manifold and tuned pipe. i guess the new radio is gonna have to wait. too bad i can't use the new power till spring. no r/c bites.

[fullmetallstpro]

heres my question? ive got a maximum st po
i have fabricated all the plastic parts out of 7075 aluminum
and that frame out of titanium . does any1 have any idea what something like this is worth.:rolleyes: :confused:

[ST RACER]

I just ordered a new .15 cv-rx with the turbo plug head. it's gonna be insane. one of my friends just got a tamiya wrc with the .12 so i'm gonna have to waste his ass. I also got an 18 tooth clutch bell, shiny cvd's, 50wt shock oil for the rear and 40 for the front ( 45 was to much for the front), also, hardened steel bevel gears, a couple plastic 52 tooth spur gears and i'm gonna have to get my dad to make me another stainless steel spur gear. next on my list of stuff to get is a futaba s9450 digital servo and a receiver pack. if i work enough i should be able to get a better radio too. but i think that might just be a dream. i also got the 4 shoe clutch kit from duratrax. this truck is gonna fly, i hope. my cousin plans on buying a nitro quake. i don't plan on being squashed.

about the titanium truck, i don't know excactly but it's probably worth a butload. titanium is most definetely not dirt cheap.

[megaman]

wow dude, sounds like a supremo recipe for a kick ass truck. i bet its going to scream like a champ lol. for the dude with teh titanium stuffs...hed make a fortune on Ebay...heck, id buy the front bulkhead and the rear suspension arm holders. i wonder if he made metal spur gears for the two speed...if you did, ill buy those too man. but im guessing you wanna sell this as a package. but if not shoot a post my way. as for me, im going to chop my chassis a bit to save weight. iwanna make this thing scream and be super light.i made the plans, andim also goign to make an upper deck for it, for strength. ill tell you how it goes. seeya

[fullmetallstpro]

back again
as for the price of the parts. ill have that 4 u in about a month.
im in the process of working the details out with my dad the owner of the machine shop. where running samples now too get a better figure on things.ill get back to ya on that.as for the spurgears you dont really want them. ive detonated 6 gear boxes with them. there not worth it to me. if i can remember right . i think he charged me like 40 bucks each 4 them just not worth it

[megaman]

when you blew your tranny did you mess up your diff? or plastic casing of the diff itself? either way i still want them because i doubt ill have probs with my tranny, because my gears dont strip when i accelerate or anything, they strip when im already going fast...i stripped my 48t spur as it was shifting into second, then i stripped the 52t spur when i was wheelying in the street...i was already going about 30, so it wasnt from me being weird on the throttle. besides...if you dont think there good maybe youll let them go for cheap;)

[ST RACER]

if i can i'm gonna get my dad to make me a stainless steel gear with 48 teeth, like the one from the 2 speed, with the width of the original plastic spur gear for the one speed. i hope i can cause with this new engine it might wind out pretty fast, even with the 18T clutch bell.

[ST RACER]

if i can i'm gonna get my dad to make me a stainless steel gear with 48 teeth, like the one from the 2 speed, with the width of the original plastic spur gear for the one speed. i hope i can cause with this new engine it might wind out pretty fast, even with the 18T clutch bell.

[ST RACER]

pic

[ST RACER]

yay, the pic finally fitted

[megaman]

i dont think you should make a 48t spur...with the 18t cb youll have enough speed and youd only make your acceleration worse, that and the engine may not even have the tourque to wind out with that gearing. anyways...do you race your st? it looks like that shot was at a track, how do you do? id like to race mine, cause right now its basically "raced out" anyways. i only bash but i like to bash good, so to speak. so i have the shocks tuned, the camber/toe in tuned, etc. the only time i get to race it is when im at the GoKart track for practice and no ones on the track. thats a blast. im gonna need to get some action shots...

[ST RACER]

i have other clutch bells but, i can't get that gear anyway. i asked my dad today if he could do it but he got a promotion at work and isn't around machinists anymore. i was beginning to think the same thing so i just ordered some extra 52 t plastic spurs.

[ST RACER]

oh yeah, that was the track i made in my mom's garden last year after she dug everything up. i haven't been to any real races and have only been able to race friends that have electric trucks. not a challenge to beat at all. nest spring i'm gonna go do some real organized racing. to bad i'm gone for 8 weeks again next summer. that's the bad side of being in the army reserves. you lose your free summer time.

[ST RACER]

another good pic

[ST RACER]

another one

[ST RACER]

i hope you like them, i have more but i'm having trouble getting them to fit withing the limit. i'll take pics of my truck with new parts on it once i get back from my christmas trip to jamaica. it's gonna be sweet. ( the trip and the truck )

[ST RACER]

megaman do you plan on upgrading your truck this winter.

[megaman]

i dont know, my truck is already as hopped as it could be minus say, titanium turnbuckles. which i dont really want, or upgraded shocks, which i dont really need. i have all the stuff that ill "need" for a good time. all im gonna do over winter is the stuff that you cant buy, im going to do all i can to make this entirely race worthy, thats kinda been my goal from the start, my first mod ever was when i centered the tank so that all the weight wasnt on the left. and its been a snowball effect since. that and of course i have other R/C's that i need to put some time into, they all run but not as well. sorry it was such a long post for a simple question, but you know :D
are you going to upgrade at all?

[ST RACER]

1. os cv-rx w/ 10-E rotary carb .15
2. turbo head and plugs for cv-r
3. 4 shoe clutch
4. hardened steel differentials
5. bow tie tires for rear ( i still have good proline edge's on the front)
6. 18 t clutch bell
7. some kind of better body ( not sure what but i know it will look better then it does now )
8. tuned pipe ( still have to choose but it'll probably be a THS )

i'll post pics of the beast when i get back from my trip and put it all together.

[rc man37689]

does anyone want to buy a max st?

hopups:

New just broken in Fantom .12 03 (a little head scratches)
custom extended chassis
custom 2 inch ground clearence
blue fuel filter
missing 1-4 screws
traxxas servo for steering
hitec am radio with 1 stock servo and receiver
a little thicker shock oil
duratrax tuned pipe and manifold
and maybe ill throw in a stainless steel extended chassis (SHINY)


i wanna try something new maybe electric touring hmmm
if you want pix ask

[megaman]

why do you want to sell it all of a sudden? and how much?
post some pics of the chassis and stuffs

[rc man37689]

i dont know. my friend got an rc airplane and i found out they are cool. i dont know how much :confused: you decide. ill post pix soon because my brother has the digi cam and hes not home right now

im looking for maybe $330+
so far lets see how much i spent on it

car 260 (when it first came out)
new servo 30
fantom 140
tuned pipe 25
fuel filter 4
afterrun oil 2
glow plug starter 30
fuel bottle 20
-----------------------
$501
+ fuel for duratrax .12
about $100

W0W :eek:
do you think $330 is good price?
this is a good truck but my neighbors think its too loud.
i think this is a very expensive hobby.


EDIT: o yeah ill give the glow plug starter and fuel bottle with this

[rc man37689]

woops i also forgot i put ball bearings in the wheel carrier or whatever its called

[fullmetallstpro]

what other engines will fit on the pro and still use the two speed other than os engines

[megaman]

basically any engine that looks like it will fit, will fit. they all have practically the same mouting specs give or take a few millimeters, which is insignificant because the mounts are completely adjustable. all you really need to look out for is the shaft, which needs to be at least about 1 centimeter (about 1/2").

[rc man37689]

here are 2 pix (if you are interested i will post more pics in the bst forum)

[rc man37689]

2 inch ground clearence

[megaman]

thats pretty sweet there. if i was looking for one id buy it. anywho, my webshots got muffed up so i had to redo my albums, but all my pics are on the other comp, which is...out of commision. so i just took more up-to-date pictures, with the "new" chassis and stuffs. check it out.booyah (http://community.webshots.com/user/megamanturbo) my work is never done...

[rush freak]

just got a st pro full alumin
needs a motor so im going to use a picco 15 with 1.35 hp
with the 2 speed should make the st fly

[ST RACER]

rc man, scale nitro r/c planes are alot more expensive then cars. i almost bought a dc-3 twin but then i tallied up the cost and it was triple what my truck was worth. also, did the lengthened chassis make a huge difference or just minor. it looks like a limo compared to mine.

[rc man37689]

lol a limo i cant really feel a difference but I like it MUCH better with the extended chassis because 1.more space 2. alost easier to clean. my friend has 1 too but not extended and i was like wow mine is sooo much roomier lol
i dont want to get into nitro rc airplanes into electric or maybe not i duuno :confused: :confused: i might get a schumacher menace lol . or maybe computer parts. im still looking for a buyer :(
but i dont wanna get ripped off on ebay by a scammer.but i do still want to sell it ooo im confused :confused:

[ST RACER]

i heard with some hop ups you can get those menace's up to 90 mph. that would be freakin fun. i wouldn't want to hit anything though. menace sounds like a good plan.

[ST RACER]

but then again, my max st is superior

[ST RACER]

has anyone here tried out and had any problems with the cvd's from duratrax. why would they stop making the universals. they seemed to be good for me.

[megaman]

because after a while the universals develope slop, and cant be rebuilt unlike the cvd's which can be rebuilt and take ALOT longer to develope slop. i widened my max which required me to ditch them and go to some 3rd party godbones, and the outdrives are getting a huge groove in them.

[ST RACER]

did you put the max mt susp. arms on it or what.

who else here has heard about the superchargers from RB. I would like to get my hands on one of those. they don't make on for the max st but i'm sure if i put my flywheel on the lathe and made a few minor adjustments i could use the one for the rc10gt. 30% more air into the engine would do wonders for power. check it out here (http://www.rbinnovations.com). that is something to dream about, but it's over $200 for us sucker canadians who don't have our own companies.

[megaman]

no if i did that it would be about and 1.5 inches wider, i just widened it by about half an inch total, cause i want to keep it race legal, hence the .12 engine, and now i converted it to a one-speed, but i used the 18t clutch so its still plenty fast, maybe even as fast as it was cause before the engine didnt wind out like it does with just the one gear

[mack]

What did you do to convert it to a one speed ?

[megaman]

oh nothing really, just took off the second speed (48t) spur gear and the housing for it, then the first gear (15t) clutch bell gear. if you want pics...it can be arranged

[mack]

I thought maybe you found an ST to MT conversion and that way I could go to a metal spur gear.

[ST RACER]

my little brother is buying a max mt to race me with. I hope it's not gonna be too slow, i want some good races. atleast now i have some people to race against. my cousin is buying a nitro quake, bro is buying max mt, and a friend has a kyosho ultima st. i guess it could be a close race if my cousin and my brother get a head start and my friend puts a good engine in his.

I can't wait for spring much longer. it's only getting colder here, we had a blizzard yesterday. that almost got me going about buying an art attack. i think i'll just keep fixing up my st. who here has been able to embarrass some rc10gt, xxxnt, or ultima st type-r drivers with a max series truck. tell what happened too.

[megaman]

yeah i found out that more ppl are into this hobby than i thought...someone down the street has a 2.5 t-maxx...we raced, i smoked him off the line and in the long run. i took him out in handling (silly things tip over) and one of my other friends has a rc10gt...i didnt know about that...he heard mine and busted it out, were even off the line, and i took him on the top end, handling was the same. and my other bud down the street has a nitro rs4 mt, but we all know i got burned on the bottem, but smoked him in the high end, i lost in the high speed turns: too much understeer. in fact now that i think of it, alot of ppl in my neighborhood have cars, thast tight...i need to make a track, that'd rock. we just mess around in the street and local field.

[Astro]

Hi there. I purchased a used ST Pro on ebay for 147.00 and it should be here soon. Hope to be posting more here soon on this subject. I want to try my hand at racing this summer. Any R/C ers from IL??? :D

[ST RACER]

I like to hear that you beat the T-Maxx and the rc10gt. I want to put a T-Maxx in it's place too. I hope that .15 cv-rx is as good as they say. Racing should be good this year and I don't want to be embarrased by any rc10gt's. but, now that i've heard this, the rc10gt drivers could be the only one's becoming embarrassed. My brother just bought a max mt so this season should be really good now that I have more people to race against.

[ST RACER]

I can't wait any longer till spring. i was bored so i took my engine apart onlly to see a red coating all over everything. after realizing it was just the after run oil leaving a stuck on residue i scrubbed it off thinking i should put some new stuff on. well, i got to the connecting rod and under the layer of oil residue is rust. i wasn't too happy when it saw that. i thought after run oil was supposed to stop stuff in your engine from rusting? what's up with that? So i put it back together then had a great dream that night of it being summer and getting to waste some mugen mst on a bmx track, from the last rc nitro mag. I NEED R/C NOW . My order still hasn't come in so i called my LHS and they said it'll be at my door at the end of this week. My patience are running pretty damn thin. i'm about ready to melt a huge patch of snow in my back yard with a hair dryer for a track. The snow is 3 and a half feet deep here and it just keeps rising. Now that my snowmobile has a broken fuel pump so i can't even do that. DAMN YOU SNOW!

[megaman]

yeah i know what you mean, i have to go out and bear the cold, we dont get any snow. but sometimes i just want to run it so i sit out there with my frozen fingers. its a blast though. but oh man im so stoked, i found a guy down the street who also has a maximum!! it was crazy i was on my way from school and was going through a neighborhood road, and heard his t-maxx, got to talking to him and he also has a maximum, i told him that i do too but htat its hecka souped up, so im going to take mine over there and race his (just broken in) t-maxx, and then show him all the little mods ive done, plus! hes selling it to his friend, so well have another buddy to rc with. man thast like...6 ppl in my neighborhood

[ST RACER]

Tou better waste him. the weight of representing the max series superiority is on your shoulders.

[ST RACER]

i took my shocks apart only to find that i had bent a shock a shock shaft. good thing i have some extra's. has anyone here tried the trinity green slime on there shocks?

[ST RACER]

yay, it's starting to warm up. it was only -2 a couple days ago. this is almost good enough for my ST. my order still hasn't come in yet. what gives. its been almost a month and a half. my truck is gonna rip.

[ST RACER]

where is everone? who drives there truck in the winter and what did you do to it to keep the batteries from losing all there power as soon as they get outside into the cold?

[megaman]

Originally posted by ST RACER
where is everone? who drives there truck in the winter and what did you do to it to keep the batteries from losing all there power as soon as they get outside into the cold?
so thats why my batteries are always dead...but you know i drive it anyways! except for now...im out of fuel...

[dhutch]

Originally posted by ST RACER
where is everone? who drives there truck in the winter and what did you do to it to keep the batteries from losing all there power as soon as they get outside into the cold?

mine seam fine, but i amusing a ni-cd rx pack - so maybe there ok

[ST RACER]

i drive it but the shocks all get stiff when the oil gets cold and the servos slow down. also i can't get much speed because the servos won't open the carb all the way from lack of power. same reason why you always see commercials on tv saying this super battery will start your car even at -50. maybe not you people in the U.S. but us here in Canada see all those damn annoying commercials all the time.

[ST RACER]

i should buy a receiver pack. it would probably end up saving me money in the long run anyways.

[dhutch]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
ive raced it twice. they only let me drive in novice because of the 85cc fuel tank.

Is the limit 75 then??

- if so what 75cc tank fits best?

[cbsmith]

Can anyone recommend a rechargable receiver pack that will fit on the Max MT Pro? I am tired of using AA batteries. I would like a NiMH pack, but don't know if any 5 cell packs will fit.

Thanks,

Chris

[BTE214]

Is the limit 75 then??

Yes 75 is limit for racing, but some tracks will let it slide if it's like a novice type class. I haven't been to any races becuase there isn't many if any outdoor tracks where I live, but I think they put something in your tank that takes up 10cc's bringing it down to the limit.

[dhutch]

Originally posted by cbsmith
Can anyone recommend a rechargable receiver pack that will fit on the Max MT Pro? I am tired of using AA batteries. I would like a NiMH pack, but don't know if any 5 cell packs will fit.

Thanks,

Chris

yeah any pack of the configeration

(+)( -)
(+)(- )(+)

should fit under the RX fine, althogh if they used the "large the AA" size (like mine) the plate will bend a little (like on mine) but its fine and you need no extra tools etc

daniel

[dhutch]

doh - forgot vbulitin took out spaces!!

http://www.ihateaol.co.uk/misc/pics/02.22.04-18:39:30Image1.gif
like that


- also has any one got any 5' shocks on the rear of there Max ST??

cos i was think of getting some - is it worth it, which should i get??

[ST RACER]

you'll have to chop those chassis suspension stops off but i think all you'd need would be 4 inch shocks with the stops cut out.

[dhutch]

right

- i just measured - and they are 4':confused: sure i got 5' last time!!

and what do you mean "chassis suspension stops"??

thanks daniel

[cbsmith]

Originally posted by dhutch
yeah any pack of the configeration

(+)( -)
(+)(- )(+)

should fit under the RX fine, althogh if they used the "large the AA" size (like mine) the plate will bend a little (like on mine) but its fine and you need no extra tools etc

daniel

I looked at Tower and the only NiMH pack I could find in a hump was this one that uses AAA batteries. Would this pack last as long as alkaline batteries?

Thanks,

Chris

[ST RACER]

the chassis suspension stops are at the front part of the rear suspension are right where the arm leaves the chassis. you'll see that it sticks out and keeps the arm from pointing down at a farther down angle. there is also one at the front at the rear part of the suspension arm. there are 2 on each side and they don't look like much but it's the difference between max mt and max st ride heights. if you get rid of these stops then the truck (with 4 inch shocks in the rear) will sit exactly like a max mt.

[ST RACER]

i'll try to post a pic soon about the susp stops

[dhutch]

Originally posted by ST RACER
the chassis suspension stops are at the front part of the rear suspension are right where the arm leaves the chassis. you'll see that it sticks out and keeps the arm from pointing down at a farther down angle. there is also one at the front at the rear part of the suspension arm. there are 2 on each side and they don't look like much but it's the difference between max mt and max st ride heights. if you get rid of these stops then the truck (with 4 inch shocks in the rear) will sit exactly like a max mt.

ok, thanks, i get what you mean - but do you have to remove the stops (cos i use the car mainly on grass) and is there any point?? - or should i just keep the 3'ers??

- will i only get better performace with 4' shocks if im off roading more??

thanks so far daniel

[ST RACER]

you should only do it if you wan't to drive it off road or it will just make it worse on-road. but if you run it on grass you probably wan't the truck to sit as high as possible. i'd raise mine up if i ran it on grass. the engine works too hard when the chassis is being pulled back by the grass. it overheats really easily (usually) when i drive it on my lawn. there is a point since even with the three inch shocks those stops keep the shocks from extending all the way. on the three inch shocks they only make a couple mm difference but if you use the 4 inch shocks you should cut the stops out.

[dhutch]

yeah, ok, thanks - why do Durataxx put in those stop :confused: very strange!!

also - How do i know if im overloading my engine??

- i recently installed a 18T clutch bell - to compensate for the decrease in wheel size (stock - > claw dawgs) and i was wodering if this was to much, i calculated 17T to be better (but LHS didnt have any)


certainly with the std 15T it was toping out on the flat (tarmac/hard soil) - but it was about right for grass i think




And finaly - loadsa pics of my car can be found @ spurstow.com/rc (www.spurstow.com/rc)

[ST RACER]

usually you can tell your overloading your engine by listening to the engine. if your engine isn't able to rev up then you should change the gearing up a bit. also if the engine gets really hot really fast and on dirt and other places it has been running good, then you are probably overloading it. grass is usually when this happens. usually i would have my truck running great on the dirt and gravel then i would go for a 2 min drive through the grass and my engine would already be overheating.

Yay, my order will be in tommorrow. i can't wait to throw that cv-rx into my truck. this is gonna be awesome, and the snow is slowly melting. every day now has been around -5 to 0.

[ST RACER]

where did everyone go, the nitro r/c race season is just around the corner.

[megaman]

false, actually, if you look on the susp. arms, right above the stops, there are holes, what those are for is to put a screw in there, and tighten it down to adjust the downtravel of the shocks, IE the ride height, similer to the tc3 or other touring car with bump-stops. so, if you were to take a long..ish screw and put it in there, it would push the arms up, lowering the ride height. and, they dont limit the travel, cause even if you were to take them off, and unscrew the shocks, they would stop right there anyways, or at least begin to bind up, that and the 4" shocks wouldnt fit anyways unless you added another mounting location about 3/4"-1" further out from the current ones, they'd stress the arms, and not even have the same travel otherwise. Duratrax didnt do things on this for nothing, for example, if you look at the arms, youll see that there are other holes opposite of the shock mounts, those were going to be for swaybars. thats ALSO why the front bulk head has little grooves in them. look and youll see. thats also why the chassis has those extra servo mounting points near the engine, those are for a sliding throttle servo location. oops on the long speech. just sharing some knowledge. oh ps...im out of fuel. =(

[dhutch]

ah well - i think i'll give them a miss - 3' is long enough!!

also i think my engine is up for re-sleaveing cos is hard to start and wont idle slow enough etc

- how much is a new sleave etc??

- would i be better off geting a 2nd hand CV-R (from LMS)??

thanks daniel

[dhutch]

has anyone got a the OS CV in the max??

- is the extra ££ woth it for the .15 over the .12?? - is the .12 more powerfull then the torq .16??

what other engines are sensable/cheap?

[2mcgrath]

ok guys i got a couple question's here..i just traded around and got a st pro..what are you guys doing for traction with this thing grass or pavement if i mash the throttle all at once it spins out of control if i gradually get in the throttle i can keep a straight line..what temp is the torq 16 suppose to run at for performance im running about 295..i havent got to drive it alot but i have noticed it is suprisenly fast.also are there any other bodies that will fit besides the duratrax body dont care to much for it..

[dhutch]

- i bought a set of IMEX Claw dwags, partly recomendation, partly looked good (and i was in a hurry), there fine, except the reason i bought them was because there looked wider that the rest - but that just because there lower (smaller diameter) - so i f you get them your'll need a bigger clutch bell
- but ANY THING will be 100x better, the truck is fairly gripy with the claw dawgs

- Temps, dunno (temp gun on order) - except mine got to hot
:p

- Bodys, any 10th body will fit (with a little work) - otherwise im about to make my own (using the collage vac former, and m8s can get cheep polycarb)

- hope this helps, hope you enjoy your MAX ST

- also read this whole thred (i did) because is full of good tips etc

- finally URL=www.spurstow.com/rc]my site (mainly st pics)[/URL]


- - Daniel

[2mcgrath]

i was out running it today havin a blast with it and lost a outdrive hub anyone got any spare ones laying around they would sell?good looking truck mine looks like that except it has the blue frame and blue axle carriers and the chrome wheels.

[Are-see-truk]

Hey guys if any of you are wondering about how much Hp the torq .16 has, here is a page with VERY if not the same engines duratrax makes. The .16 look-a-like has 1.2 horsepower at 25,000 RPM...thought you might want to know...

http://www.cenracing.com/engines.html

the engine that looks like the .16 is the NT-16 STD-Rotating.

[2mcgrath]

dhutch i think the sleeve is like 30 bucks at tower hobbies for the torq 16

[dhutch]

yeah - thanks

- just wondering, what would be the best thing to do (cash Vs engine)

A) "Cheap fix" - buy new sleave/piston, hope it lasts longer

B) "half way house" - get a 2nd hand CV-x .12 (from LMS)

C) "whole hog" - get a new CV-x .12

D) "whole hog+" - get a new Cv-x .15 (also, its blue :p)


just wondering what people think,

- is the torq .16 worth fixing?
- should i be aiming for the CV-x .12 or the .15?
etc

THANKS daniel

[megaman]

unless you plan on racing, id go for the .15, its a bit more but worth it in price. the torq 16 id leave alone, it was an allright engine, and even with a new P/S combo it'll still be an allright engine, but the .15 is better. but if your are going to race then id go with the cv-rx .12. its just as powerfull as the cv-x .15, and its blue also, its the one i have. however, there are some engines that are .12's, but still as powerful and priced around the same as the .15, so youd be able to race anyways. i cant think of any off hand but yeah. oh and hey there new guy =). glad to see some new ppl aboard. um i dont know what to say except have fun with your max. heres mine =P (http://community.webshots.com/user/megamanturbo) i still need to update it, ive done more mods

[2mcgrath]

i found the peice for mine in the yard but it was broke..anyone have one the outdrive shaft

[megaman]

that happened to me, i sent it back to duratrax with a little explanation and the proof of purchase (on the box) and they sent a new set. if you dont want to wait you can find some other ones at your local store that fit. whatever you do, to best eliminate this is to (once you get some) get some metal tubing, or pipe, with the INNER diameter the same as the OUTER diameter of the outdrive, and then put it over the outdrive, hammer it or whatever. that way it wont split like it did because it has that reinforcing it. hope i helped. the best thing to do is buy it new, cause mine are worn out =\

[dhutch]

Originally posted by megaman
unless you plan on racing, id go for the .15, i
- ts a bit more but worth it in price. the torq 16 id leave alone, it was an allright engine, and even with a new P/S combo it'll still be an allright engine, but the .15 is better.
- but if your are going to race then id go with the cv-rx .12. its just as powerfull as the cv-x .15, its the one i have.
- however, there are some engines that are .12's, but still as powerful and priced around the same as the .15, so youd be able to race anyways.

So unless im going to race, you think i should go for the CV-X .15

- and you think the torq .16 is scrap, will the OS engines last longer?? - how often to you need to maintain engines/replace parts etc

- finally, why it the CV-X .15 cheaper than the Cv-X .12???

[megasaxon]

My Brother has a Maximum ST Pro and he was tired of being stuck with the stock style body and he got an Atomik body for it. Your prolly saying how did he get it to fit over the car with the stock pipe stick out so far? Max Pro meet MIP NRustler Stinger pipe!
check it out, sorry for the terrible pic, it was taken with my webcam..

[megaman]

im sorry you misunderstood...there are two series' of engines: the os .15/.12 cv-x, with the .15 being more pricey than the .12, then theres the cv-rx series, (R=Racing) with the .12 and .15 as well. the CV-RX .12 is just as powerful as the cv-x .15. i think that the cv-rx .12 has the cv-x .15 beat everywhere, but im not so sure about the torque, the cv-x series if i remember right is rather torquey. plus with the extra displacement between the .12 and the .15 is another facter, but then again the cv-rx is a race engine for a reason. i dont know..at this point im rambling lol.

oh and hey, i like your bros max, ive seen other ppl do that, its a nice little mod, keeps it out of the way of a descent body.

[2mcgrath]

do most places that have duratrax parts take money orders because i dont have a credit card is why i was wondering if i could find one around and about on the net

[dhutch]

Originally posted by megaman
im sorry you misunderstood...there are two series' of engines: the os .15/.12 cv-x, with the .15 being more pricey than the .12, then theres the cv-rx series, (R=Racing) with the .12 and .15 as well. the CV-RX .12 is just as powerful as the cv-x .15.

No No - you misunderstand:( - I know you on about two diffrent serise (SP) - the CV and the CV-R (where the x is just the pullstart model)

- but if you look on tower, the prices are as follows

OS CV-X .12 $99.99
OS CV-X .15 $89.99
OS CV-RX .12 $129.99
OS CV-RX .15 $100.04

- so on those prices, im very temped my the .15s (eather CV or CV-R)

[megaman]

wow lol...i feel like an ass...must be some mistake or something, cause it doesnt make sense to me...(i dont want to be wrong =P) oh wells. i admit that your right, i havent checked the prices in a while, i dont see how/why they're like that. oh wells...go with the .15 i guess, more power! (grunts like in home improvement). i dont know which .15 though...the cv-rx if you can. crazy...
well for you, Mr. Mcgrath, i dont know of any that accept money orders...try looking around, sorry man i odnt know what to tell ya. later guys

[dhutch]

Originally posted by megaman
wow lol...i feel like an ass

- Nah, dont, i didnt mean to "prove you wrong" - i was just wondering, i mean a mistake maybe, but not twice - so i might order a CV-RX :p

[ST RACER]

megaman, just so you don't think i'm an idiot, the reason i said chop the susp. stops out is because if you put the shocks in the mounts where the max st's shock's would go, the truck would sit really high with 4" shocks. Also about the cv-rx's, the price of them is wierd, usually .15's would be more expensive but for the cv-r's they decided to go nuts and give us a deal i guess. i just bought a .15 cv-rx and it was cheaper then the .12 cv'rx. i thought my LHS giving me an amazing deal but it's like that at all hobby shops. MESSED!!! that's all i can say.

[ST RACER]

tower hobbies accepted my money order last year so unless you've heard something new then they should still do the same for you. I have the same problem, no credit card. but my lhs offers cod for 8 bucks or something. that's what i do now.