Nitro Quake Forum

[DaMaXXer]

Just bought a Nitro Quake. Post pics and news about urs. :D :D

[ck500]

.

[ck500]

I've had a NQ for a couple of months now and really like it. I've done a couple of mods to it so far and has really increased performance:

I've added the stronger shock springs, went to a heavier shock oil and changed out the steering servo to a metal geared one with about 110 oz/in of torque, which really improved the steering. I am getting ready to install the center torsen diff this weekend and see what that does.
I also want to get a new body. The one it came with just isn't all that impressive.
Anyone else out there that have made some mods to the NQ? Let us know!

Chris

[mstroh3961]

the proline hummer body fits with a minor modification of the body posts. its pulled from .060 lexan and much stronger than most bodies!

I am in the prosess of designing a combination skid plate bumper, that I am going to atatch a role cage, hinged off the frount bumper, and pined at the rear, the body will be atatched to the underside of the cage! with this mod the shock towers wont be absorbing the impact of upside down landings that i seem to have a lot of! :D

will post pic's when its done

happy Quaking
M:cool:

[DaMaXXer]

Well i canceled my order on the Quake and instead I am getting a Mega Force. Sorry

[BillB]

I love my NQ. When I got it the flywheel on the engine was a bit wobbly but I fixed that.

So far I've put the 4-shoe racing clutch on and the front and center torsen diffs. Also went to a 13 tooth clutch bell.

I've also duplicated the chassis in Pro/E and I'm in the middle of doing the shock towers. Once done I will cut a new set from 1/8 sheet Ti CP2 or CP5.

I've done a new set of wheels in Pro/E and I'm just finishing up the design so that I can add shims to either run stock NQ tires or various Clod Buster or USA-1 tires from Proline, etc. They are beadlocking three piece desgns. Four piece if you count the shims.

I've bought, but not installed yet, the MPI failsafe and a new HiTec steering servo. Maybe this weekend I will install.

Next purchase .... CVEC pipe.

Can you tell I like the truck? :D

[ck500]

Awesome. I also love my quake. Not a bad truck at all.

Bill, what brand of clutch bell was that and where did you get it? Also, I was thinking of getting the racing shoes/springs as well but didn't want to lose the low end torque, did that happen? As far as the new pipe goes, would you be able to use the existing header with a cvec pipe and is there a certain model CVEC you would get for this engine?

So far, i got 2 high torque servos, which really improved the steering and the braking power. I'm also planning on purchasing a higher end radio like the hitec 3d lynx.

Any and all replys to this post would be great about what mods you've made and how successful they are. We don't get too many posts on the Quake.

[BillB]

I cleaned up the shocks this weekend and put the Duratrax stiff springs on the rear. I was always a little annoyed that my rear sagged like it does.

The clutch is the Duratrax version up on Tower. Four shoe for 21 engines. Get the OFNA brass corn #10330 while you're there. It will help with the conversion in that it allows you to use the drive washer that comes with the kit instead of your original.

I have the MIP temp gauge and added the MaxxProd switch and charge jack combo and the little OFNA Brick 1000 receiver pack. That pack get's you a lot more room in the radio box. Which I need for the MaxxProd failsafe. I hate the size and shape of that radio box. It wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that screw post sticking up near one corner. I was going to dremel it out but I decided to just build a new box to suite my needs.

I think the CVEC T170 will mate up just fine with the exiting header. The pipe is a little shorter though so I'll be bending the support wire a little.

I'll keep you posted.

Also, the new flywheel in the clutch kit is thicker and has a much better knurled surface so it grabs the wheel on a starter box much better. The clutch is pretty good in that it doesn't engage until the motor spins up a bit higher in RPM than the original so it really makes my truck jump off the line harder. I also went from the 14 to the 13 tooth clutch bell. That probably helped a tad as well.

:D

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Kyosho makes an 11 tooth clutchbell. That really helps the low end.

The Racing clutch shoes and springs help on the low end torque too. I use the one from Duratrax.

[sand45]

I just bought a nitro quake 2 weeks ago . I cant get over how big it is. This truck is fast for its size, i cant even imagine how fast the thunder quake is! The only problem ive had is a stipped ring gear . I guess its from hitting the breaks and sliding and then hammering it out of the slide :D

[mstroh3961]

the r&p is a majer problem....set your brakes looser! also look into using the r&p's from the thunder quake! they fit with some shimming of the pinion. good luck and happy quaking!

M:cool:

[sand45]

Thanks for the info, Im sure it will come into good use!! :D

[NitroX]

Well i've had the nitro quake for about a year now, the only thing is i haven't had much time to mess with it until recently, last year during the breakin the front servo went out and i replaced it with a futaba 111oz servo which works pretty good. Now comes my question, i have run a few tanks of fuel through it in the past few weeks and now i'm trying to tune the engine correctly. Now the low speed idle is what i'm having problems with i think. Today while driving the truck around the yard i noticed when i gunned it it would bogg down then i would release the trigger and let it go back to nromal then pull the trigger again, and it would be fine, then i would repeat the process over again, with the boggin then taking off. Now the low speed idle was "i thought" set correctly, if someone could give me an estimate of how many turns out from fully closed(in) i need to be i would appreciate it. Also i have the high speed idle set to about 2 1/2-2 3/4 from fully closed. I have been tinkering with this now for a bit, maybe i'm missing something else, also i see smoke coming out of the engine(i think it may be excess oil burning off) but am not too sure. Lemme know what ya think i should do. Thank you

[NitroX]

Also i live pretty close to QuakeNShake, if i could get some advice form him i would really appreciate it. I've tried to deal with the people i bought the truck from but they don't seem to want to talk to me much. This is my second truck, the first one was a usa1 nitro by kyosho i bought last year, and i had one hellava time putting it together so i gave it to my father-in-law as a retirement gift and bought the nitro quake cuz it was RTR. If only i knew then what i do now, hehe oh well thats life for ya. Thank you

[Archerboi]

I currently have a Duratrax nitro demon, that I want to convert to a monster truck, what other rims will fit with the 19 mm hubs? Or should I get ofna's 17mm hubs, and what other rims will fit to mount proline truck tires? Thanks.

[NitroX]

Good luck getting any answers here, this place is dead. Unless you have a t-maxx, your sol here. Try visiting this message board if you have any questions or if you'd like to have in intellectual conversation on the nitro quake/thundar quakes. http://pub11.ezboard.com/frcmtnetworkmessageboardmtduratraxnitroquake?page= 1

I found this place shortly after i started posting here and so far all my questions have been answered. Good luck

[ntrotom106]

Hey BillB how did you fix the wobbly flywheel on your Nitro Quake I bought mine about 3 weeks ago and it does the same thing. Is this a problem that i should worry about. Anybody please reply. THANKS

[DaMaXXer]

I currently have a Duratrax nitro demon, that I want to convert to a monster truck, what other rims will fit with the 19 mm hubs? Or should I get ofna's 17mm hubs, and what other rims will fit to mount proline truck tires? Thanks.


If you get the 17mm and then get the MT3 rims made by Ofna too you can fit any T Maqx tire on them

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The thing is the Demon has short arms. Sure you can get tires and rims that will fit the hexes but clearance may be an issue with bigger tires.

[Archerboi]

I am converting it with longer arms, making into a monster truck. :D

[echo50]

Has anyone here had any dealings with Duratrax Tech. Support ?
I sent a motor in to be repaired on May 8th . They received it May 13 . So far it has been 3 weeks trying to get a part in to fix my motor and they keep telling me its on back order . It want be long till they have had my motor longer than I have had it. The motor is under warranty and the guy today told me to call back next week . Come on man today is only Monday does he already know my parts won't be in this week . This sucks
:confused: :mad: :mad: :mad: My truck is a Nitro Quake and the motor is a Torq .21

[mstroh3961]

What part broke? Sorry to hear of your trouble! My flywheel was so out of ballance, that the rear main bearing shattered. I found it's fairly simple to tear down and rebuild a tork .21 or any other nitro motor. The 4 shoe raicing clutch mounts much easyer <no brass collet> and makes a world of differance on the hole shot!

M:cool:

[echo50]

the cameshaft rod that works the piston up and down . The sleeve in the piston hole . mstroh3961 thats the best I can explain it . It broke during break in peroid . They emailed me last night and told me they got the parts in to fix it with two days ago but figure this . Two days ago was Sunday . Didn't think the mail runs on Sunday ? It doesn't here anyway . I won a bid on ebay for another motor and I can almost bet it will get here before my other one does . Thanks for asking

[echo50]

Although I'am having trouble I really like this truck . Its BIG and it has to be fast . I never got to hold it full throtle .I would really like to see more post on here about everyones Nitro Quake or pictures of there trucks in other post .

[mstroh3961]

echo50 at least you got a defective part, Me the first time i ran mine, not knowing anything about r/c or nitro, I dident reloctite everything. the linkage from the steering servo to the servo saver came loose. the truck made a right turn into the front wheel of my simi tractor! Shatered the frount gearcase bulkhead, bent the shocktower to hell, and broke all four body posts. I caled customer suport and they sent me all the parts, free of charge, with the full knowlege of how it happened!

happy quaking
M:cool:

[Ferrari_boy]

hey guys,

how does the nq accelarate and what is it's top speed

if i try to turn at high speed will i be hitting a slide or cartwheels

is it a good lander

[Fetztang]

i converted my nd to a monster to but i didnt put on bigger arms i removed some of the chasis. and i moved alot of stuff around and got rid of that humungus radio tray. i will try to get some pictures up if i can
Brian

[echo50]

Has anyone here tried to put a 2 speed transmission on there truck ? If so where did you get it .
Thanks , echo50

[BillB]

I put the Monster Pirate 2-speed in my Nitro Quake. Had to dremel out some of the chassis where the big gear scraped and had to cut away some of the radio box / servo tray where the big gear hit the third servo (Thunder Quake) spot. Also, had to cut the center brace into two pieces. You have to use the OFNA drive cups as well because the Duratrax are for larger ends. Otherwise, it works. Maybe 3 hours worth of fitting work.

[JISNITRO]

Hey , I just got my NQ 4 weeks ago and Im very impressed, I Had a nitro demon that was a complete waste of money"junk", and I tore it down for peices that will be a direct fit. I have a question though, the rearend does sag more than I'd like so I was wondering if anyone knew what springs to put in the rear to fix this, or is there a simple adjustment I can do? and my front is getting much more power of the line than my rear, I'm thinking if I should put heavier weight in my center diff or diff lock to fix this, any suggestions?? I tried breaking down the center diffn on my ND but couldnt get the set screws out on the diff joints to get to them, will I run into the same prob on my quake?? Thanks for the help guys

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

for springs Duratrax DTXC9123 hard springs are the way to go. Mount the shocks in the lowest hole on the shock towers front and back this will give you more ground clearance.

Yes the diff joints will be hard. Mine had red loctite, I used a small torch to heat the set screw then it loosened. You could use a ligher if dont have torch.

They make a torsen center diff DTXC9733 that takes care of the front tires ballooning this is what I bought it comes with a steel main gear too. I know others lock the center diff will silicone.

Another thing thats not expensive but helps is the RACING CLUTCH & Springs
DTXC7154 and DTXC7170. This will help with the low-end take-off.


oh dont be afaid to jump, look I got like 10feet high.
http://community-2.webtv.net/QUAKEnSHAKE/MonsterTruckPics/

[JISNITRO]

Thanks alot quake n shake, I like the pics you have. what other mods are out there for the NQ that you might know of? I love the quake but I cant find much of anything aftermarket for it. I see you put a tyrod for the steering does that help with the binding ( what's the part number for the setup?) Another question if you dont mind, how is the MP do you think its better than the quake and is there any probs with it? I love monster trucks and Im thinking about getting that next . Thanks again for the help!!

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Im using a 1/4 scale servo so I went with this set-up for strenght. Plus it takes out some slop.
Heres 2 choices
first buy
one 3mm x 10mm socket head cap screw-
one 3mm x 15mm socket head cap screw-
one 3mm lock nut
one 3mm washer
Du-bro #DUB2157 4-40 turnbuckles !cut to size!
Traxxas #2742 rod ends, ball connectors

or second choice
If you would like I have an extra set-up all but the 3mm lock-nut I would send to you for free, up to you. If so email me QUAKEnSHAKE@webtv.net

The MP it does have more hop-ups but about the same as the NQ (old school so to speak) Mp needs a little work on
the suspension cause its stiff. They both need a strong steering servo to bring out the best performance. The NQ I feel benefits greatly when going to lower gearing I put an 11 tooth clutchbell on and the Torq21 came to life.
My opinion because the MP & NQ are close and you have the NQ might consider looking into the new breeds 2.5 maxx Savage AEMGT :) But the MP still is a good truck.

[JISNITRO]

Thanks, gotta say, I do appreciate the help. My next upgrade will definately be a higher torqu servo once I get some money together, The 1/4 scale servo you put in fits ok? In RC Nitro I saw some 1/4 scale servos cheaper than standard high torque ones so I think I'll try them instead if it fits in ok.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I managed to get the servo to fit in the tray. Its a close fit just had to trim away little by little. I also had to move the on/off lever. If you try just get the rear mounts of the steering servo right up next to the front mounts of the throttle servo. This will give you room up front off the tray to mount the servo in the tray. If you have an extra body post the size of it is just the size that fits in the gap between the mounts and tray. Plus add to trim a bit off the front outside mount to allow full movement of the servo saver arm.
I use the Hitec 705MG. One bigger than this might not fit.

[JISNITRO]

thanks, once I get my servo I'll let you know how it's coming along, how much did you pay for the hitec servo?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

For use with the Hitec radio here is the servo at towerhobbies $36
I paid $40 at lhs but I live in IL. If I buy at Tower I get charged like 7.5% tax and shipping charge.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN601&P=7

Those parts are on the way:)

[JISNITRO]

Thanks, thats a pretty good price for it. I was checking ebay for servos and I might as well get it new fro tower where I know it will work

[Mook9304]

Can some one please list hop ups far as rims diffs steering parts please. thanks

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I have not used any other rims. I have seen Monster Pirate rims and tires used. MP rims can be bought in the 19mm size the NQ uses. Other than the torsen diffs I dont know of any other aftermarket ones or steering parts.

[SAMMY D]

I just got my nitro Quake this weekend. I need alot of help. After break in it wont run anymore. Could you guys tell me what your High and low speed needles are set at? I want to try anyone setting, maybe my truck will run!

[Kenny123]

Have you guys ever had problems with BENDING dog bones & drive shafts?
If yes check this web site out: ExtremeRCParts.com
If you want dog bones for the Nitro Quake email : extreme@extremercparts.com
and ask them for some.

[Kenny123]

I just got a brand new Nitro quake with a hot bodies electric start, and an Airtronics Blazer Sport. I want to know if this truck is good for jumping? How does it handle? Does it brake easy? What are the pro's and con's of the Nitro Quake? What hop-ups should I get or due to the truck to make it better? Also does anyone know if you can put an OFNA Slipper Drive from the Dominator in the NQ? What will I need to make it fit? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!

[Kenny123]

????????????

[Kenny123]

Does anyone want aluminum diff. Cases for the DuraTrax THUNDER QUAKE, NITRO QUAKE, or the AXIS? I want to know because a friend of mine works at a machine shop and he can make some. 2 for $60 with shipping included. I am asking because I have a THUNDER QUAKE and a NITRO QUAKE, and they crack or melt all the time. I have read of this happing to a lot of people, so if you are interested please reply ASAP.

[Iceshot]

anyone ever had a problem with the recoil starter ripping out because it got caught on a tire. I have had this happen twice in a week.


Can any one help me with this, were can i put the starter puller so it wont get ripped out.:confused:

[ST RACER]

would any of you guys recommend this truck to one of your friends. i personally have a max st and my cousin is looking for a good nitro monster truck but doesn't have a big wallet. i don't know too much about this truck and i was wondering what all the major and minor problems were that you guys had.
thanks for the help

[tl_ke_racer]

man im so orderin one of these only 280.00 bucks, looks like a good truck, i was gonan get a maxx but i want somthin bigger and less common.

[tl_ke_racer]

anyone here still into/got their nitro quake, im orderin 1 tomorrow, we all drive monster trucsk here, i never had enough cash fora nitro one, but this one seems lieka good value, am i making a wise choice getting this one?

[josephkim]

hey, can some one give me some in the ballpark settings for the torq .21 needle setting for BOTH the high and low speed needle. Also, what is the factory setting for the low speed needle?

[Freedom]

I just bought a Nitro Quake. What parts do you guys break most often?

[Freedom]

Hey guys,

Let's see a picture of your Nitro Quake!

[Kenwood]

i have my nitro quake is for sale.comes complete with radio.

[Kenwood]

i have my nitro quake is for sale.comes complete with radio.

[jjmag26]

I just got a nitro quake and had to replace the steering servo, so I went with a 130 oz. Now I want to buy a battery pack so I can just recharge them. To fit properly I need a 6v hump pack, but all I can find is one with 6v 600mah. I don't know much about batteries so is 600mah enough and if not does anyone have any suggestions. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD528&P=0[/URL] This is the link to the battery pack I found. I see that the nimh batteries have a higher mah rating but i'm not sure my charger will charge them propery. My charger is a hobbicco multicharger.
Thanks for any help provided.

[Freedom]

Go to Walmart or Target and just get some rechargeable batteries.

How do you like your Nitro Quake? I like mine a lot!

[jjmag26]

So far I'm liking it but have to get the heavy duty springs.

[Freedom]

I ran mine today at the races, and put on a between heat shows for the crowd and managed to get some ohhs and ahhs as I ramped it a couple of times. It was great fun. The only other monster truck there was a T-Maxx and I ran all over him to my delight. hehe :D

[jjmag26]

Can someone please explain to me in detail because I haven't worked on these before. I hear people talking about putting window chaulk in the diff. to improve performance. I'm a little baffled and would like to learn more. If I do this can it mess things up or is it worth doing. Thanks in advance for the help.

[MOVINFAST]

Are You Sure They Didnt Mean Regular Silicone Lube/grease.......i Use Dow Corning 4.......its A Silicone Lube.....

[MOVINFAST]

i found what you are talking about....its for the center diff so power goes to front and back equally...it has its good and bad points.....i am leaving mine alone




what needle setting is good on the .21........seems to only like rich..but it makes it hard to start.....mine is still new ..hopefully it gets better....right now once it warms up its a pain

[jjmag26]

movingfast do you have any pics?

[jjmag26]

My highspeed is at about 2 and a half turns out and it runs great

[MOVINFAST]

i cant go less than 5 1/2 of it bogs out at high.....are you using 10 or 20%?

[jjmag26]

I'm using 10%

[MOVINFAST]

i will have to try 10 %.the shop i bought it at said 20 was ok but it runs hot and is hard to start when warm

[jjmag26]

I also went to a cooler glow plug and it has never ran better.

[MOVINFAST]

i will try a different one in the morn.

[MOVINFAST]

the shop mentioned something about the piston hitting the head to seat its self???what is that about?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I use 20% and mine runs great. I have used OS A3 plugs for 4 years now in two torq21's My temps are almost always in the 240 range. The last time I ran it was 85 degrees out and at first (2 1/2 turns) my temp was 305 turned high needle richer 1/2 turn ran it a few and came back 225 a bit low for how I like it sort of sluggish, leaned high needle 1/4th turn so now at like 2 3/4th turns and power came back temp went to 243 right where I like.
5 1/2 seems way to much. Like jjmag26 my high needle is usually 2 1/2 to 3 turns.
Telling you what to do is tricky. Hearing the engine is what is needed.

Restarts are usually more difficult anyways. I have found though that the fuel makes a difference. The best I used for hot restarts was Wildcat Quickfire made for hot restarts. I switch to Byrons Race fuel and although its not as good at hot restarts but still does real well the Byrons seems to give more power I never have a flameout run full to empty always well bar hitting stuff and the like :)

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

delete

[nitroloco]

Hello, I have a couple of questions regarding my NQ. After locking my differential and getting the stiffer springs for my shock, i test ran it yesterday and very happy with the results. Now my question is about tuning the engine. My HSN is set @ 2 turns out and it performs awesome, why is that during start up and restart I'd be able to get the engine running and then it will cut out unless I rev the engine up. I will hear a click like when you stop the engine by way of stopping the flywheel. Is this normal? Thanks.

[MOVINFAST]

the torq .21 has a pin that engages and disengages into the rear (part of the drive shaft...it is not a one peice....it saves hp by not having to turn that much more metal......it is a spring loaded pin in the middle of the rod journal.....click click :p

[nitroloco]

Thanks movinfast. i took out my NQ today for a spin. I haven't even finish my 1st tank when the truck stopoped and it could barely move so I went home and checked it out. It was my rear differential ring gear. well it wasn't a gear anymore it was just a plate, all the gears were stripped. So my Truck is Out of commission for a while. I am calling duratrax and beg for a replacement an I might as well beg for a pinion gear as also. After all this truck is only a month old if that.

[masong]

Well....

My story with the Nitro Quake has been arduous.... to say the least. I bought it about a year and a half ago from a semi-local hobby shop. I won't go into details but I've had to replace almost any part you can think of. Always the truck has had problems with running for more than 2 weeks to a month. Just the other day I had EVERYTHING fixed on it and the rear differential gear was completely ground out. (I hadn't opened the casing for the rear diff either.) My replacement parts are here and I'm hesistant about taking the diff apart and replacing the gear. I see other people have had good experiences with their trucks, but mine was very lousy.

[nitroloco]

I just called Hobbytron and they told me to just send the parts and a copy of the invoice and they will send the replacements. I Sent them both bearings, pinion gear and the ring gear. The whole truck has a 90 day warranty so I hope I don't break anything anymore.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The new ring gear you get should be better than the stock black one, its redesigned more of a bronze color or bare color. The mesh between the ring and pinion will be better. You should get a few shims (washers) to take the play out. MAKE SURE YOU DO!! My rear set went out on me like 3 years ago I got the new gears, set the mesh, and no problems since. I opened it up just a couple weeks ago to regrease it and the ring gear looks in great shape.
The front set I had stock gears just till last month they finally gave out. When I replaced the rear set I checked the front and shimmed it better I think thats why it lasted.

Masong, Nitroloco once you have the new ring gear put on, set the diff in the lower housing half then set the pinion gear in with the 2 bearings on the pinion gear shaft and 2 shims between the first bearing and gear teeth of the pinion.,

Start with 2 shims just behind the pinion gear teeth


Shim the pinion to where it is just about touching the diff gear body but dont let it touch it maybe a millimeter from it. Check the mesh the biggest part of each gear tooth on the ring and pinion gear should meet dont make it too tight if it feels like gears are grinding a little back out the pinion gear by removing a shim.

Like on mine the front has one shim the rear has two.


Once that is set You may need to shim the out side between the outer bearing and the diff jont (the part the drive shaft dogbone goes into) to take out any front to back movement of the shaft.

Make sure to LOC-TITE all those set-screws. And the screws that hold on the ring gear.

[nitroloco]

Q&S
Thanks for the tips. I am plannning on inspecting and lock-titeing evry single screw while I have the truck down. One question wher do get the precut shims.

[masong]

I tore my truck apart and shimmed the pinion gear into diff after replacing the stripped gear. Things ran much better and the engine was spectacular. I recently bought a auto throttle cutoff for the thing too, so now I no longer have runaway's. When I was less experienced with R/C I always had the problem of the truck taking off and becoming and auto-tree / auto-mailbox post seeker. The thing that caused this was a cracked resistor inside the receiver. The two cracked parts rubbed on each other creating a connection and sometimes severing the connection - hence the random runaways. I re-soldered a new resistor to the board and the truck works like a champ.

[nitroloco]

I am just playing the waiting game. I sent the parts out first thing Monday morning and I guess it takes about three days for it to get there, then up to 7 days turn around for the new parts. I hate this. I am on leave for 2 weeks and was planning on running the truck everyday that is why I bought a gallon of fuel. Right now I still have a gallon of fuel with no truck to use.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The pinion gear package comes with 3 shims. I looked and looked finally found this place that sells some.
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=1059

Or try a local hobby shop.

[masong]

After running it again I've got to open the diff casing and check for metal shavings, just in case. Would running the truck on-road put more strain on the diff than running it off-road?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Yes due to the high traction the tires wont break loose like on dirt so more energy go to the gears.

[nitroloco]

Okay, I know now to shim the pinion to the diferential gear to have a minimum backlash, once that is achieved I need to shim my u-joint coming out of the gear box to get the fore and aft (front and back) movement of the drive shaft out also. Do you set your drive shafts tight with no slop at all or do they need some kind of minimal movement. I am looking at my front one right now and this a factory setting, I ma getting from 1/8" to 1/4" movement. Is that right?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I just checked mine and the front drive shaft between the center diff and front diff is about what you have 1/8" movement.

[nitroloco]

how about the tuned pipe and the aluminum coolinghead, are they available for the quake and if anybody has the part # for the bigger fuel tank could you let me know where to get it?

[jjmag26]

Anybody want to buy this nitro quake? email me and make offer jjmag26@comcast.net

[jjmag26]

nevermind, disregard that last post.

[MOVINFAST]

ahhhhh ok

[MOVINFAST]

you can always put small wheels on it and call it a axis (with kick butt low end gearing for short track)!!!

[jjmag26]

hhhh

[vetmxer]

you guys having the ring and pinion problems heres a tip put a small hose clamp on the bulkheads(where the driveshafts enter the diff). this will eliminate flexing of the bulkhead on hard landings etc.basically it keeps the pinion tight to the ringhttp://www.mustangmods.com/data/9754/bulkhead_clamp.jpg also thunderquake R+P are stronger but a different ratio.www.extremercparts.com sells some bulletproof stuff for the TQ many parts will fit the NQ :D

[nitroloco]

Well I finnally received the pinion, ring gear and the bearings from Hobby Services today. It took a total of 15 days since I mailed the package to them and they gave me the wrong size bearings. Just when I thought I would be able to drive the truck today and try the new steering servo that I installed, NOT! I guess I'll call them tomorrow and also just go to the LHS to pick up a couple of bearings.

Have any of you guys tried the T-MAXX wheel adapter that duratrax sells for 25 a pair?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Well I finnally received the pinion, ring gear and the bearings from Hobby Services today. It took a total of 15 days since I mailed the package to them and they gave me the wrong size bearings. Just when I thought I would be able to drive the truck today and try the new steering servo that I installed, NOT! I guess I'll call them tomorrow and also just go to the LHS to pick up a couple of bearings.

Have any of you guys tried the T-MAXX wheel adapter that duratrax sells for 25 a pair?

With those you need to get universal dogbones for the rear at $17 more so like a $67 total Plus with regular maxx rims you will lose like 3 inches of width or so.

What I did was buy these cost much less http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXABC5&P=7
With them a number of rims with 17mm hubs can be used that are compatible maxx size tires. They have full offset just like the quake rims so no loss of width.
Like what I bought Ofna MT3 rims(4 for $18) and new Ofna Monster DISH rims. http://www.ofna.com/tires-monster.html

Imex make some rims too the Romulins & Plutos http://imex.clodparts.com/catalogmaxxrims.html
Too Ofna Monster Pirate rims will fit that will let you use te Imex jumbomaxx size tires they sell in a nuber of styles.
So my set-up is the Ofna Hexes the Ofna MT3 rims and I bought Losi Zombie Maxx tires.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/lowfront.jpg

back
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/back.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/34front.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/front2.jpg

[Freedom]

Is there anyone out there that makes the T-Maxx wheel adapters for the Nitro Quake?

[nitroloco]

Yes, is there anyone that makes the adapters? I have a set of dirt dawg 40 series that i want to use. 2 of my quakes wheels are too wobbly . How do you fix that? I mean you could see the truck literally jump up and down and rocks side to side in high speed. Any fix for that other than replacing the tires and wheels?

Thanks in Advance.

[vetmxer]

dirt hawg 40,s will fit stock thunder quake rims. no need for adapters then

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Adapters
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTT0&P=7

[nitroloco]

Quake and Shake,
I just have a couple of questions about your set up, I am abou to order a new set of tires for my quake and I was looking at the MT3 Split rims @ Tower and the spec is sayin that it is only 2 inches wide. Is that the one you have? Are the Romulins lot wider? TIA

Noel

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Yep I have the "mt3 split" http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMH1&P=7
I measured them and they are like 2 1/8 inches wide. Any tire made for a maxx rim will fit.

I dont know the width of the romulins but they do have 19mm hubs so they would be a direct it.

[nitroloco]

Thanks for the reply. I think the Romulins, according to one website have 17mm hub. I ordered the MT3 split tires and the adapter from NitroHouse.
Thanks again

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Nitrooco, So what tires are you thinking of getting?

[nitroloco]

I ended up going for the MT NIK Dominator tire so I didn't have to order from somebody else. I ordered everything from nitro house.

[nitroloco]

Quake,
I know you were looking for a new engine for your truck, What did you end up getting for it? Just wondering.

Noel

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Im getting XTM .247
Well actually Im getting a used XTM X-terminator 1/8 buggy that has a newer .247 in it.
The .247 will go in my quake and the torq21 will go in the X-terminator.

[nitroloco]

Let me know how it goes. Have you heard anyone who has ported a tourq 21? I have mine apart right now and seriously thinking about it.

Noel

[vetmxer]

just curious how do the plastic spur gears hold up on these? thinking of making my TQ a single speed anyone ever done this? will the parts fit a TQ chassis?

[vetmxer]

agian does anyone know how nitro quake spur gears hold up i have a steel one but im worried that it will saw into the clutch bell. do the plastic ones work ok? id rather trash a $5 spur than a $20 clutch bell.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The plastic spur stripped on me in the first half gallon havent used one since. I use the metal spur gear that came with the torson diff same as the duratrax steel main gear. I use an 11 tooth clutch bell that has lasted gallons and gallons of fuel. Get a good clutch bell and shouldnt have any issues. I never really had read about wear being an issue with the quake. The TQ yes being the spur is so thin it acts like a saw blede from what Ive read about it.

[vetmxer]

thanks alot for the answer

[Monsterbrad]

With a truck this big I can't see why they would even use a plastic spur..
what a waist of plastic that is...

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

When this first came out I would see a post almost every day about it stripping.

[vetmxer]

i got me a steel spur and an ofna hardened clutch bell should be good to go. thanks again guys

[monstatruCkin]

anyone that is havin problem with brakin this shood b a real good fix. buy a set of thunderquake discs pads, etc. and also put thin washers inbetween the front shoe where it is mounted against the diff mount cuz ovatym it melted lol

[Handybugz]

hey guys i was wondering if there is any way to put a engine that has an SG style crank in any of the duratrax vehicals( thunder quake, nitro quake, axis, etc )

[vetmxer]

i put an xtm 24.7 in my TQ just cut the part of the shaft off in front of the threads and mount up your clutch.

[sav-e o-so]

you guys know where i can get parts for the nitro quake or do any of you guys have an extra 50t diff ring gear dtxc7391 and 10t diff pinion gear dtxc7381

[Lilquake]

I've had my Nitro Quake for a year or two and was wondering what everyone likes best...3 or 4 shoe clutch? they do i have a racing 3 shoe clutch also. right now i have the 3 shoe clutch the truck comes with. Thanks guys and have a nice day

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I have the Racing 3shoe clutch and springs. I like it much better than stock. The springs are stiffer and will give you better take-off and exiting corner speed. They seem to be lasting quite a long time too.
Dont know about the 4shoe set-up.

[Lilquake]

anyone think about putting a rechargable battery pack inside the truck rather than using 4 AA batteries?

[vetmxer]

you guys know where i can get parts for the nitro quake or do any of you guys have an extra 50t diff ring gear dtxc7391 and 10t diff pinion gear dtxc7381
i have a torsen diff with ring gear(brand new w/instructions) ill let ya have it for $30 shipped thats what tower gets for a ring gear alone pm if interested

[Lilquake]

:confused: is a ring gear the same as a spur gear? i know the ring gear is screwed into the center torsen diff.

has anyone changed exhausts? if so what did u change to?

[vetmxer]

ring gear is the big gear that goes on front or rear diff. a good cheap pipe for most big blocks is the stock thunderquake pipe

[Lilquake]

:) thanks vetmxer for the help. :)

so what kind of shocks is everyone running? the ones that come on the truck from the factory seem to be not enough shock for this size truck.

[vetmxer]

the thunderquake springs will fit and they are even stiffer than the heavy NQ option springs.
also a TQ pipe might have tire clearance issues on a NQ(its a fat muffler,and the TQ has longer A-arms)

[MOVINFAST]

i got one last year but found it to be kinda sloppy and slow.....i turned it into an axis instead........with the nitro quake gearing it is a great short track buggy.......with the axis gearing it is one fast buggy on a big open track

[MOVINFAST]

to lock the diff..all you do is swap the planetary gears around..

open the dif..you will see that the 4 small gears are set up in opposite / diagonal pairs..

all you do is swap 2 around so they are paired together(2 gears facing up on the left..2 gears facing down on the right)

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Anybody have a pic of the torq21 flywhel set-up stock form. I took mine apart to install (flywheel) on an xtm24-7 but that didnt fit. I put it back on (torq21) and for some reason just doesnt seem right. Whats getting me is this thick washer/spacer its between the flywheel and the engine block. Its suppose to be there, right? I just cant remember.

[Lilquake]

Try Duratrax's Website, i downloaded a parts blow-up for my nitro quake and it had a blow-up of the torq .21.

What gear ratios are everyone running? right now i have the stock spur gear with a 13T clutch bell.

Quake, where did u get ur 11T Clutch Bell and what shocks are u running on ur Nitro Quake? from the earlier pictures ur shocks dont look stock.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Thanks lilQ I did find a picture and things are right now.
The 11tooth is made by Kyosho I think they have updated it looks a bit different now.
I have the stock shocks just different springs.

11tooth discontinued
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=fm82

[Lilquake]

Sweet so what does everyone have planned for there Nitro Quakes? Hopefully people didnt jump off the band wagon and go to those T-Maxx's or Savages...I'm thinking of switching fuels, im gonna try a 30% Nitro Blend that my local hobby shop sells. They told me if i keep it rich enough it i should I will gain HP and not burn up the piston quick. :) come on guys keep us updated with ur Nitro Quake Add ons.

Anyone got any stories of how they beat a savage, t-maxx, ext with there quake? i wanna hear them :)

[nitroloco]

Hello there . Has anybody replaced their Nitro quake shocks with anything other than the stock shocks?

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Sweet so what does everyone have planned for there Nitro Quakes? :)

Well Im running the xtm24/7 in my quake now. Have like 11 tanks (250cc) so far of use and cant say that Im totally happy with the engine. The top-end is better than the torq21 for sure but the low-end seems to be less than I thought there would be. Im running the 11tooth cb and still cant wheelie on take-off in grass or on the street. It might be the clutch. The shoes look worn a bit too much. Im going to see what other shoes to get plus check on getting stiffer clutch-springs. It seems to take like 5 feet or so before the engine really kicks-in and hauls ass then.
The engine is very easy to start. Tunes easy too "now" with an updated low-speed needle in it.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Hello there . Has anybody replaced their Nitro quake shocks with anything other than the stock shocks?


I saw your post and so I thought I would try out my XTM Xterminator buggy shocks. I have stock quake shocks w/hard springs now. Well there really isnt any diffrence to warrent buying the XTM. The "feel" of the compression is the same. The rebound is about the same BUT on the xtm shocks I have yellow 1.6 springs that are like a medium there is a stiffer black 1.7 spring that might rebound a bit more. The XTM are longer by ½" but you dont get to use the extra length. The shock bodies arent as thick, the quake shocks are oh about 1.5mm thicker.

[Lilquake]

has anyone tried the option stabilizer bar set or titanium shcok shafts?

Wut about using the option 5x35mm Turnbuckles rather then the stock 5x60mm ones?

Let me know how these parts are... thanks guys

[nomad1]

I have the chance to by one of these trucks used. $150.00 It hasn't even been broke in all the way yet. It hasn't had 3 tanks of fuel run through it. It has the Torq .21 in it. Are these trucks anygood? I haven't had nitro for years so I have to learn all over again. And I figure I'll have to get a piston/sleeve and rod combo. So I have a new engine ready to go. What do you think?

[Lilquake]

go for it...thats a good deal. I have a Nitro Quake and i love it...i cant beat a savage but i have beat a few t-maxx with it...

[nomad1]

I'm getting it tomorrow afternoon. I'm trading a Evader St that I don't use for it. Are the torq .21 a good engine to start with? I haven't run nitro since 1995 and then I was completey lost. Now I'm just partly lost!!!lol

[Lilquake]

the torq .21 was and still is the only nitro enigine i've had and its pretty easy to tune and work on...

[nomad1]

That means I should be okay then right? And another question do you use a heat gun. And what temp should I tune for?

[Lilquake]

no i dont use a heat gun, i fire mine up in my basement then i take it outside and it starts right up and runs fine...usually i keep my head temp in the low 200's, thats just me.

[nomad1]

I got the truck today. It's in pretty good shape. I broke a body mount getting it out of my pickup. I need to get a few things to fix it up, but so far everything is availabel from Tower. SO that's good. But the body, I kind of like the body the comes with it. But what other bodys fit? I'd really like to have a DOdge Ramcharger. But I've never even seen one for 1/10. I will post once I get it started to let all of you know how it runs. I've got to clean it off real good first.

[Lilquake]

1/10? the nitro quake is 1/8th scale

[nomad1]

I know it's 1/8 scale. I just meant I've never seen the body I want in 1/10. So finding it in 1/8 scale will probably be next to impossiable. That's what I meant. I love how big this truck is. I just can't wait to get it all together and drive it. It's gonna kill me.

[Lilquake]

nomad1 have u got ur quake together yet and drove it? let us know how it went...

[nomad1]

Not yet, still trying to recover from cancer. And lack of money. Medical bills are killers. Only one more Chemo treatment to go. Then the doc says I should be done for good. With the cancer. YEAH!! After that I will put some serious ot in on the truck. ANd I will post asap. As soon as I have it running. Thanks for remembering me and getting back with me. I hope to be feeling good and driving this bad mister soon. And Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the Nomad.

[TrU InTeGrA]

welll....my story with the nitro quake goes as follows....bought it from a dood on RCuniverse who lived in yago, GUAM...i live in canada. so neways im waiting for it in the mail and i get a package from the guy....and for some reson he only sent me the tires.......then the next day i got a big box..the truck yay :) so neways i clean it all up and put it all together and go to use the electronics that he sent me , with my failsafe and the servos are goin NUTS and back and forth crazy...so i swapped my good futaba gear in and it works great..so couple litres in and everything is great...then i start to jump it and thats when stuff started to break ..first axel then dogbone ..then the wheel adaptor broke, then the shock tower eventually had an S shape to it , in all out reality ALL my fault..uff whatever so then all of a sudden 1 day the gears started to click..yay the ring and pinion went in the front...replaced...week later rear went...replaced, got a new motor for the savy so the nitrostar25 goes into the NQ ...take it into the snow with some paddles......both front and rear ring'n'pinion are GONE BAAAH well 1 more time then this thing gets turned into a shelf queen.
TrU

[TrU InTeGrA]

stock pic when i bought it...

[TrU InTeGrA]

present condition. :(

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Make sure to shim the pinion AND ring gear. Shim the pinion so it is pushed towards the diff housing this will get the bigger part of the teeth to mesh with the ring gear teeth. Then shim the ring gear so it doesnt move out/away from the pinion gear. A little bit snug with the gear mesh is better than even the slightest bit of play.

[nomad1]

I still haven't got mine running yet either. I need a ring and pinion for the rear. I see the ring gear is still available, but can't find a pinion. Which right now even if I did find it, I can't buy it for some time. I'm still not back at work yet and have no idea how much longer the doc will have me off. I also have to get a radio tray the kid lost the battery/receiver cover and you can only get the whole thing. Oh well, just so more down time.
Jerry

[cornflake]

Well, lets just start off by saying that I've had T-Maxx's, Savage's, all of the 1/8 scale Duratrax series including the Thunder Quake, Nitro Demon, Axis, and Nitro Quake. I just recently bought another used Nitro Quake and modified the crap out of it. I'm whooping Savage's and T-Maxx's with ease. This truck is a great truck if you modify it right. I have Thunder Quake Ring and Pinion gears because of how strong they are compared to the stock Nitro Quake's. I am running a torsion Center diff and a locked rear diff. I also added clamps around the diff cases at the pinion gear location to prevent stretching and letting the pinion gear move in the case and take out the Ring and Pinon. I have 4mm shock towers, Dual Piston Shock setup, 15T clutch bell with a metal spur, Ofna 17mm hub conversion with 3 different sets of tires all on MT3 wheels, Thunder Quake front universals ( they are unbelievably stout compared to the stock ones), 35wt shock oil in the front and 45wt shock oil in the rears with the HD front and rear springs. I'm running an O.S. .21RG(P)-X engine with a Nova Racing cooling head, a 4 shoe clutch system and a tuned pipe. This thing is unbelievably fast and with the torque of the O.S. engine, I geared mine for top end because it doesn't have any problem with the low end take off. I have recently taken everything apart and powder coated the chassis plate, shock towers, and tuned pipe with yellow powder coat. I have also switched the body out for Thunder Quake body, the thickness is a lot better then the flimsy stock body. I'm also running a High Torque-Metal geard servo for steering and a moderate torque Metal geared servo for throttle. This is controlled by a JR FM radio system with a rechargeable battery pack on board for the Receiver. If any questions let me know.

[TrU InTeGrA]

Pics Pics Pics Pleease>.. :)

[cornflake]

Here is one pic of the truck, I will add more, but I guess I have to do it in several replies.

[cornflake]

pic of my truck with body on

[cornflake]

Here is front view with the body on.. Last pic unless someone wants something specific and then I'll email it to them.

[nomad1]

Kick A**. That's one wild truck. And thanks for the info on the Thunder Quake parts. I may be better off in the long run that way.

[masterchief06]

I just got Nitro Quake this past Friday around noonish, and have already made some pretty redical changes. I dredded changing it around, but I got i in a trade for an Electric Traxxas Stampede, so I was happy. I will post pics as soon as I can, but I JUST (15 minutes ago) finished removing the stock Torq .21 (my lhs says it is only good for a paper weight), and dropping in a XTM 247 with a Nova Cooling Head found HERE (http://www.novarcproducts.com/headspages/xtmheads.html) . It took some fitting and some Dremmeling to fit this engine in, but it worked. I had to Drill and Dremel and countersink new engine mount holes in the chassis, buy and install an OFNA 3 Pin .21 Engine SG Flywheel found HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=WR&I=LXBZZ5), an OFNA Racing SG Shaft Clutch Nut found HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMG0&P=0) , and a OFNA 14T Clutch Bell w/Bearings found HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZT9&P=M) . All in all, the parts to drop it in cost me about $40, so I consider it a good deal. It took me about 2 hours to do it, but I was putsing around and relaxing while I was doing it, so it should take alot less time. I have yet to start the truck and run it with the new engine in it (it was dark on the East Coast when I was done), so she'll be purring tomorrow (hopefully). If you have any questions about the install or tips if you are doing it or thinking of doing it yourself, then let me know and I will help as much as possible. Again all the above mentioned parts are FOR A SG SHAFT ONLY and WILL NOT work on the standard shafts. I don't currently have a Dig Cam at my disposal, so I will post pics of the truck as soon as possible.

BTW- I fitted my T-Maxx thrasher body (I think it is a F350 made by Atomik, but bought unpainted) and it fits PERFECT! I really like the way it looks rather than the stock NQ body.


Next step: Install on Torsen Diffs :)

[masterchief06]

I forgot to say I also installed a Hitec HS-625 MG and a HS-311 for the steering and throttle/brake, respectively and they SEEM to work great. Just thought I'd share.

Mike
masterchief06@comcast.net
4104143877
AIM SN: lcdrwashington

[masterchief06]

I started the old NQ up with the new 247 engine in it and GEEZ does it sound STRONG! I coupled the stock pipe to the 247 and this thing is sweet. All I need to do now is put a rear torsen in, but thats another story...

Mike

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Hi. Nice to see person still running NQ.
1st dont let the lhs knock the torq21, with lower gering that engine does quite well.
I to have the 427 installed and had a 14 tooth cb it scoots with the stock tires. I put on zombies and its lighter by a couple pounds plus have an 11 tooth cb on now the low end is great.

About the torsen might think about getting the center one instead of the rear.

[masterchief06]

Yea I definitely took apart my rear diff and the only thing that was bad about it was a crunchy bearing that sits on the pinion gear, so I won'e be replacing that one. I have two coming, so I'll be replacing the center one and the front or just replace the center and have a spare. Thanks for the info on the Torq .21, as I never got a change to run it before I replaced it with the 247. I'm really upset at how slow the torsen diffs are getting here because I can't run the truck without them. I wanna take them to my local track this weekend, but looks like I'll only have my buggy to run. Anyways, any tips or tricks for the NQ? I just got mine about a week ago and have been dying to wrench on it. Let me know.

Mike

[masterchief06]

Does anyone have any idea on what wheels to fit on the Nitro Quake? My wheels/tires are thrashed and I need a new set, but I want something aftermarket if possible. I have never seen a 19mm hex wheel before or the tires to fit it, so I don't know. Thanks and lemme know

Mike

[TrU InTeGrA]

19mm? crazy..post a pic...let us see.

[masterchief06]

why is that crazy? That is the stock hub size on a Nitro Quake. Find pics here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR95&P=7

Mike

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

The new ring gear you get should be better than the stock black one, its redesigned more of a bronze color or bare color. The mesh between the ring and pinion will be better. You should get a few shims (washers) to take the play out. MAKE SURE YOU DO!! My rear set went out on me like 3 years ago I got the new gears, set the mesh, and no problems since. I opened it up just a couple weeks ago to regrease it and the ring gear looks in great shape.
The front set I had stock gears just till last month they finally gave out. When I replaced the rear set I checked the front and shimmed it better I think thats why it lasted.

Masong, Nitroloco once you have the new ring gear put on, set the diff in the lower housing half then set the pinion gear in with the 2 bearings on the pinion gear shaft and 2 shims between the first bearing and gear teeth of the pinion.,

Start with 2 shims just behind the pinion gear teeth


Shim the pinion to where it is just about touching the diff gear body but dont let it touch it maybe a millimeter from it. Check the mesh the biggest part of each gear tooth on the ring and pinion gear should meet dont make it too tight if it feels like gears are grinding a little back out the pinion gear by removing a shim.

Like on mine the front has one shim the rear has two.


Once that is set You may need to shim the out side between the outer bearing and the diff jont (the part the drive shaft dogbone goes into) to take out any front to back movement of the shaft.

Make sure to LOC-TITE all those set-screws. And the screws that hold on the ring gear.

Here is a tip for the ring/pinion gears.

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

What I did was buy these cost much less http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXABC5&P=7
With them a number of rims with 17mm hubs can be used that are compatible maxx size tires. They have full offset just like the quake rims so no loss of width.
Like what I bought Ofna MT3 rims(4 for $18) and new Ofna Monster DISH rims. http://www.ofna.com/tires-monster.html

Imex make some rims too the Romulins & Plutos http://imex.clodparts.com/catalogmaxxrims.html
Too Ofna Monster Pirate rims will fit that will let you use te Imex jumbomaxx size tires they sell in a nuber of styles.
So my set-up is the Ofna Hexes the Ofna MT3 rims and I bought Losi Zombie Maxx tires.
wheels, tires, 17mm hexxes

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/lowfront.jpg

back
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/back.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/34front.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/QUAKEnSHAKE/front2.jpg

pics wit the ofna rims losi zombies tires

[Big D]

Hi i a have a tq with a torq .21 eng. And i am planig on up grading it.
Whatup grades doyou think would be the best. For the most part
it is stock. I mostly do jumps and sharp turns with it.

[rawdy rider]

got both the Nitro Demon and the Quake.wish i could do up mine like cornflakes!!Incidentally recieving some parts for the Demon tonight.Any of you guys having issues with your shocks??Also what other shocks from what vehicle will fit??Thanks.
p.s:i stuck the o.s. max.21 RG into the Demon.What a screamer!!Heh heh!!!

[gadget78]

gonna revive this thread,
as i just picked me up a new TQ :) ..

reason im posting in this thread is because at the start of it, people mention the flywheel/clutch bell wobbling ....
i too have this problem, and it seems to stem from the cone
as it i remove this and have it tighten up direct on the washers then it runs true ...
so must be this tapered part...
what is the fix ? as it seems common with two people saying they fixed it ...

as i thing its this that messed up my main drive gears ..

and now all of the archive stuff from extremercparts has gone :( its hard to read up on it all ...

cheers for any help ....

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Cant get to extremercparts either. Gadget in the PM reply to you that was the site I was tinking of.

[gadget78]

hello :) .. cheers for the reply(s) ....

yeah its a shame that all the good info is gone :(

nitro, and thunder quake are very similiar seems, same chassis etc ...
just the gearbox, and the farward/reverse section is diff ..
and of course the different longer s.arms etc etc ....

from what i can see, and read up on,
doubling up the spur gears is what the main fix for stripping the gears out early ..
its just the specifics would be nice to find out, (picture etc) but i think i can see how to gain the extra room for the bolts etc (theres already room for the exter gear space ....
of course dropping 2nd gear completely and having just 1st gear only is one option to create the room needed..


but the help i was hoping for was for the flywheel mount.
as im sure its the same on most duratrax nitro cars (and other manafacturers too) looking at the exploded diagrams ..
is were the flywheel mounts to the engine with the tappered brass 'collet'
this is were it seems the source of the runout/wobble ...

as if i remove this collet and bolt it up directly, there is no runout/wobble
but of course the flywheel is'nt centered on the shaft but the runout it fine ..
so is there a fix for this, short of a new collet/flywheel or both ..
is there a easy fix ? (did order a collet along with a batch of stuff i orderd to try! )

cheers for any help ... Mick ....

[gadget78]

bump ?
any info on flywheel wobble will be MUCH appreciated !
specially as people on here have fixed it !! ..

ive tried many things now ! ... grinding pasted and tried to gind it flast spacers etc etc

Mick ...