HPI RS4 3/RS4 3 SS forum

[fastharry]

thanks again....maybe we should ask the MT owners if the trucks do that......I'll have to try it again tues...but I'm sure i ws in second around that sweeper...


even with your current set-up,you say its still a little squirrly when you get off the gas?........

[TopKatz]

not nearly as much as it was with the stock setup....

my budy has a nmt with a 2speed...I dont think his does it. However the NMT and the Rs4-3 have much difrent weight and COG charecteristics...which would definitly play a larg role in how the car behaves under those ceircumstances.

[AmericanExpress]

I saw one in action, wasnt as bad as i thought, i wanted a NTC3 but at the track during the races, my friends broke the same partrs over and over on there cars, so i was thinking abut combinning the ss's durability and the tc3's tuning capabilities by doing this:

getting an ss and adding these

pillow ball suspension( can you do this on the ss, is it possible, ho much does it cost?)

racing clutch

fiber disk brake

cvds

mods on the fuel tank

Any other sugestions for it or if this will do well with the right set up?

[micro_man]

I got the most killer setup on my SS while i was at the track on saturday. We run on a real high traction surface that is real smooth. It is like polyurethaned cement but he put some real tacky stuff on it. It is so sticky that your shoes stick to it when you walk on it. Anyway, One of the fast guys that was running 235 mm cars saw that i was having problems and he helpe me out. This is my setup now:

Front:
Associated Red springs
40 weight shock oil
1/4 inch spacer
Shock on the inner most hole on the tower and outer most on arm
0 degrees camber
0 toe in
Racers choice hard foams (I think 26mm)

Rear
blue associated springs
40 weight shock oil
1/8 inch spacer
shock on outer most hole on tower and inner most on are (due to ride height reasons i couldnt lay the shock down)
2 degrees camber
Racers choice med foams (I think 28 mm)

Running the 12 ss with motor savers air filter and paris tuned pipe.

Running a 200 mm dodge stratus body with 1.5 inch holes.

Just thought i would tell every one this setup for a good starting point on a high griip surface.

2 degrees toe in

[DTRAX]

Fastharry or anyone that can help

I am trying to decide between the hpi rs4 3 ss and the nitro tc3. I know you have experiance with both cars. My question is which one is better. Is the extra money worth buying the ntc3. I would put in an os tr engine. With the set up i want in the tc3, it will cost approxametly 200 dollars more. Is it worth that. Anyone else can add information if they have it. Thanks for the help.

[RaiderFootbal27]

hey, u guys all have HPI RS4 3 SS, well... i have that too, and i know that they carb is 2 needle, but there is nothing at all in the manual about the second needle under the throttle arm, many people have told me that its a needle, even on the hpiracing.com website, they kit page, they talk about the engine includind a 2 needle carb, well...can someone tell me how i adjust it, or how much i gotta open it from closed position, i think they missed that in the manual or something.

[RaiderFootbal27]

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/press/p1627-12rss.jpg

go here, see that flathead screw under the throttle arm, many people who have and don't have hpi rs4 3 ss have told me that its the second needle...are they right?

[micro_man]

Here...check this linnk out. It tells you how to tune that needs(low end needle)

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/1626-7_12rss/1626-1_pg1.jpg

[DTRAX]

What tires are you guys running? I am thinking about trying the Jaco foams and was wondering if i should get the 24mm, 28mm, or the 30mm? Or if they will even fit on the car. Thanks

[highonnitro]

whatz up everyone, as most of u know, i have the rs4 3 SS version and for hopups i now have a purple CVEC pipe, Mip air filter and anti-sway bars. i have the rsx body on mine painted metallic blue with a silver type R wing on it. it came out really nice and i just put all my new parts on it so i'll have to see how it drives tomorrow. i hope it will break 50 cause i have the CVEC pipe set for high speeds. i'll post pics of it shortly, peace

[highonnitro]

hey again, i finaly started my car today and drove it a bit but it was wet out so i couldnt go all out, but i noticed that the CVEC pipe worked really well and it was a little louder and made the engine seem more powerful, i also notice taht when i tried to turn fast, the sway bars would actualy work and it wouldnt go into a 180. my freind just got one also and he got the same hopups as me so hopefuly this weekend we can race or osmethin. ok bye

[WhoKnowsWho]

Congrats on the RS4/SS purchase. I haven't been able to drive mine much. Been raining a lot and the E-Maxx has stolen some time. Is the CVEC pipe worth $50 or so? I might pick one up when I crash and break the stock pipe. I like the car a lot.

[Grifter]

Hey Guys,

I've been looking the Type SS and noticed it's a pretty cool Car.

I was wondering what are some "Must Have" Hop Ups.
-Fiber Disk Brake
-Good Servos
-Racing Cluth....what else?

I figure that if I get the SS, I should just pick up the "must haves" right when I buy it.

Thanks!

[Grifter]

Originally posted by WhoKnowsWho
Is the CVEC pipe worth $50 or so? I might pick one up when I crash and break the stock pipe. I like the car a lot.

I've always heard Great things about the CVEC, but lately they havent been so Great. The "new" Pipe for the SS seems to be the THS Pipe. A lot of guys on the HPI Forum are running them and I havent heard one bad thing about them.

fastharry did mention that you cant use the CV-R with this Pipe.

Here's shawnhpi's SS with the THS Pipe:

[Grifter]

Sorry for the bad Picture. I had to Re-size it and it came out bad. There's "THS Racing" ethced on the Pipe.

Here 's the Pipe and Manifold on Tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXCPX4&P=7

[captkirk9195]

Evening all.

I finally got the bug and decided to get back into RC cars.

about 15 yrs ago, I was into electric cars (Tamyia Grasshopper, Boomerang, etc) but got bored with the low radio range and battery time on the era.

So last Saturday, I went by a LHS and talked with the owner. I then went to a race that evening. I watched a great race that was decided by a second or so at the end of 5 min race.

Understand, my main hobby is taking my *REAL* car (a 97 eclipse turbo with TOO many mods, roll cage and harnesses) to the local road course to track days for fun.

This seemed like a low budget alternative to taking the car to the track all the time. Especially since I spend $400+ each time I take the real car to the road course.

After watching the race on Sat, I read online most of that night about the Mugens that one of the local racers recommended.

After Going to a different LHS (and running into a another racer I had met the previous night), I went back to the first LHS I had gone to.

The racer ended up showing up there a few minutes later (he had told me he was heading that way) and I looked at a few cars.

The Mugen (MSX-2 Pro Spec) was more $$ than I wanted to spend to see if I wanted to get back into the hobby...

So I went (on the advice of the shop owner and the racer) with the RS4 3 SS.

It appeared to have all the basics I wanted (adjustable toe and camber, 2 speed, decent engine, and it was unassembled).

I had learned when I was a kid (I'm 31 now, and my past exp was in my early/mid teen years) that a preassembled kit is rarely as good as a hand-built kit.

So I bought the kit, and an Airtronics MX-3 radio kit.

That was Sunday around 4 PM.

All in all, the kit assembly was easy (I change my own *ENGINES* and clutches, etc on a real car) so it wasn't challenging (not a complaint). The hardest part was the c-clips on the outer drive shafts in the front and rear transaxles.

Also, a couple of pictures seemed like they could better depict setups of the clutch and the 2 speed rotational assembly.

I haven't run the car yet, but I had it assembled today, Under 13 hrs of work (while watching some tv, so it wasn't 100% assembly) and it seems like it is one piece like it should be.

I still need to glue the tires (which I plan to change almost immediately), and to get the last few bits to make it run (glow plug heater, fuel, fuel bottle, etc).

Now to the questions..... (sorry for the novel)

Break-in says to run 2 tanks at idle,
then 2-3 tanks at idle -> midrange

All of that at "Static" (ie wheels off the ground)

Then you can run the car properly (WOT)

Is that the *BEST* way to breakin the SS motor?

Also, I assume 20-30% fuel is fine (from the manual) what are the advantages between the lower/higher Nitro fuel?

I've set the brake where it doesn't drag under roll, and the throttle for max opening via remote. I left the carb settings alone for the moment.. are they preset from the factory?

Also, the "turnbuckles" (tierods) should be adjustable without removing the from the car I would assume.. which way adjusts out vs in easily (in relation to the flange on the nut)

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm translating elec. (non-adj) car knowledge and REAL car knowledge to Nitro street.

Also, how long does the glow plug heater need to be on the plug to heat it enough to start the car?

Thanks,

Jason

[WhoKnowsWho]

One could only hope that the instructions HPI gives to break in its own engine would be the best way. I remember the instructions saying to do the two idle tanks with the wheels off the ground, and the next 3 at low speed running. Running it to midrange without it moving isn't very good, it needs some air flow to stay cool. I ran two static tanks at idle. Then ran 4 tanks idle to midrange in my street.

Nitro affects the way the engine runs a lot. Normal running, ie not Worlds racing, usually is best with %20 or less. More nitro will wear out the engine faster because of the much greater power it makes. Also, once you choose a nitro level, try to stay with it. Normal day to day running will require re-tuning the mixture settings, but changing the nitro will require more drastic adjustments, and I continually read that it isn't a good thing for the engine to be constantly running different nitro contents. Even if you run something like 16% nitro, it will still run well, but 20% is a good inbetween. Just pick a good fuel. And not airplane fuel either.

You should double check the carb settings before changing the settings on the remote. At break in, my car needed the carb open a little more than normal, but afterwards, I had to close it a bit to make sure it didn't roll away at idle. If you use the radio to adjust the opening, you run into the problem with the brakes, when you apply the brakes, it might close the opening a bit too much and shut down the engine. So make sure to adjust the carb, and adjust the linkages for the brakes. If you try to set it on the radio, you just get too many problems. Fine tuning the end point settings (how far the servo moves) on the radio, and doing the initial centering is all I needed to do on the radio. The rest is on the car itself.

Electric cars have the same adjustable turnbuckles now, most do at least. You should have mounted all of the tie rods with the flange on the same side. ie. al on the right or left. So that when you adjust one, you know that they all will move in or out when you turn them the same direction. I don't remember off the top of my head which way turns which, just look at the threads, or pop one off to make it have the flange on the same side as the rest, and adjust it to see what happens.

Once the glow plug heater is on, it will be ready to start that instant, as long as the heater is fully charged. So... prime, plug, pull.

Good luck, and welcome back.

[dmrcflyr2]

captkirk9195
WHOKNOWSWHO had some very good information in his post, but I disagree with one item. Model airplane fuel IS acceptable to run in Nitro cars. You just need to know WHAT you are running. I have been running Wildcat YS 4-stroke fuel (model airplane fuel)in my AE 15 and it runs great. The big misconception is that there is a difference between 'airplane' fuel and car fuel. The only differences are as follows:
1. Manufacturer and Label - usually pay more for fuel marketed for 'RC CARS'
2. Nitro content - Wildcat YS 4-stroke is 20% Nitro
3. Oil type and content - Wildcat is 20% oil pure synthetic.
Besides these three things, Nitro is Nitro.

I have been running nitro engines for 14 years and have used MANY different brands. I stick with Wildcat now because it works well and they publish EXACTLY the nitro and oil contents on the labels. I would never buy fuel that doesn't state the contents of these critical ingrediants.

If you want to pay the extra $5 for Blue Thunder go ahead. I would rather spend that parts. Wildcat YS 4-stroke fuel - $19.95

[WhoKnowsWho]

The only reason I say not to use Airplane fuel is because of the higher oil content which is not neccesary for cars. If it works for you, that's cool. But 20% oil is even higher than the content in Trinity break-in fuel. It just seems a bit overkill, if a person wants more oil in the engine, run it a bit richer. But $5 saved is $5 more in parts, but I don't even have that option at my LHS, all they usually sell is Byron fuel, which has worked well for me and is quite inexpensive there.

[captkirk9195]

Alright,

I went to the LHS.. and will be running some 25% nitro with 18% oil for breakin. Then I will be moving to something with a hair less oil in it.

As for starting it, he showed me a "trick" to always get it to start. Basically, pull start until the engine floods/hydrolocks. Then pull the glowplug, turn it over and pull it a few times. Then reinstall the glowplug, attach the heater, and pull it. This gets him started on the first attempt almost every time.

Also he mentioned the engine was tight, so might take a hair longer than normal to break in and to get started the first time.

Thanks for all the help everyone,

Jason

[fastharry]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
captkirk9195
WHOKNOWSWHO had some very good information in his post, but I disagree with one item. Model airplane fuel IS acceptable to run in Nitro cars. You just need to know WHAT you are running. I have been running Wildcat YS 4-stroke fuel (model airplane fuel)in my AE 15 and it runs great. The big misconception is that there is a difference between 'airplane' fuel and car fuel. The only differences are as follows:
1. Manufacturer and Label - usually pay more for fuel marketed for 'RC CARS'
2. Nitro content - Wildcat YS 4-stroke is 20% Nitro
3. Oil type and content - Wildcat is 20% oil pure synthetic.
Besides these three things, Nitro is Nitro.

I have been running nitro engines for 14 years and have used MANY different brands. I stick with Wildcat now because it works well and they publish EXACTLY the nitro and oil contents on the labels. I would never buy fuel that doesn't state the contents of these critical ingrediants.

If you want to pay the extra $5 for Blue Thunder go ahead. I would rather spend that parts. Wildcat YS 4-stroke fuel - $19.95



Wildcat car fuels(HPI and trinity and Eliminator) all have different power additives(for lack of a better term) added to them which teh Airplane fuels do not have.....

[captkirk9195]

Hey gang,

ok.. I got the engine to start, but it won't stay running for more than 30 seconds. Typical is 2-5 seconds. I did add a fuel filter inline when building the kit.

It almost sounds like it's going lean.. it runs.. idles up for a sec, then falls and dies...

I went through an entire (16 hr) charge of a glow plug heater in 30 min playing with it, and only went through a hair of feul (so much for idling through the tank)...

I'm using 25% nitro, 18% oil fuel (don't have the can handy for the manufactuer.. it's what the LHS recommended for break-in).

I'm considering richening it up an 1/8 of a turn (once I have power to the heater again in 12 hrs)

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jason

[dmrcflyr2]

captkirk9195

Yes richen it up as necessary to get the engine running. I would allow the first tank to be run with whatever setting allows it to start and run at a high idle. If you have a temp gun available, constantly monitor the temp, and perhaps adjust as necessary to get around 215 degrees. Adjust meaning giving slight throttle but not necessarily leaning the mixture to achieve that temp. It is possible to breakin an engine too cold. It needs to get up to a good operating temperature each time it is run. After the first tank allow the engine to cool completely before running again. Just do not let it cool with the piston in the top-dead-center position.

[captkirk9195]

Ok.. I got it running, and broke it in through 2 tanks at idle, and 4 tanks of low-mid running progressively getting on it harder.

Man this thing flies when it goes to 2nd gear!!

My problem was that I had a pinhole leak in a fuel line. I solved that and it ran fine.

New problem...

I put it sideways and hit uneven pavement, and rolled it. This bent the Header past repair (the flange surface is bent very badly)...

What should I goto for an upgrade header? Or should I just purchase an OEM header to replace it? While I'm playing with the exhaust, should I consider getting a "better" tuned pipe from the stocker?

Thanks,

Jason

Man this thing is FUN and FAST!!!!

[dmrcflyr2]

I just completed building my Type SS and thought I would share my building experience.

First, I thought the kit materials and fit were excellent. The instructions could have had more verbage. Just adding the names of each assembly would have improved it. Being somewhat new to RC cars I am still learning the terminology. I had very few issues throughout assembly but the ones I did have I will list.

1. In steps 4 and 5 the roll pins Z251 were too small for the holes in the shaft. They would drop right through. I happened to have a right angle pick that I pressed through one end to widen the pins opening. Then I installed the pin into the shaft and did the same thing to the other side.

2. In step 9 I was going to apply the grease to the ?? gear (terminology example) and come to find out that the Z164 tube of grease was filled with air! It turns out that BOTH tubes were filled with air. There was barely enough grease between the two of them to do one differential.

3. The dreaded step 10 was no problem for me as I had read several posts about this and was prepared. I lubed the screws with 3 in 1 oil before installing them. I also had the correct size Phillips head screw driver to avoid stripping them.

Those were the only issues that I had with the entire assembly. I am going to begin engine break-in this weekend after I re-configure my AE starter box.

I have attached a picture of the semi-finished product. I still have not cut out the holes for the engine and cooling.

[dmrcflyr2]

Here is the picture

[RichieRich]

Nice car. I had the same problem with the grease tubes. Mine contained nothing but air. Thankfully, I had some other grease tubes from other model kits.

Couple of things to think about - The plastic disc brake works well but will wear fast. You might want to get the fiber brake. It's the first modification I made. I had a problem with the fuel line wanting to touch the clutch bell so I turned the fuel tank around 180 degrees. Also, you may have a problem with the brakes sticking. You'll have to ream out the cam hole very slightly to get everything to work smoothly.

[dmrcflyr2]

RichieRich

Is the fiber brake disc the same thickness? If not, how do you ensure the pads contact the disk? The brake cam does not look large enough to engage the pads on anything smaller than 4mm without an additional spacer installed.

I will definitely watch out for the fuel line contacting the gears. I guess refueling would be easier also if the tank was rotated as you say also. Here is a question. On step 43 of the brake linkage assembly, what is 50474? I could not find any references to this part throughout the manual. I just used fuel tubing; and I also doubled the length. The 12mm specified did not provide any resistance; the knob 85032 (5) bottomed out with a 12 mm 'spacer' installed.

[RichieRich]

dmrcflyr2 - Yes, the fiber brake is the same thickness. There's no modification needed. 50474 is indeed fuel tubing. You may have to fiddle with the brake linkage a bit once you get the car running.

[dmrcflyr2]

RichieRich

I actually had the engine running twice tonight. It was the easiest starting new engine that I have had yet, out of 3. I used my AE starter box, but in the second tank I decided to try the pull start and the engine cranked up on the second pull. I rtan 2 tanks without a single problem. Both tanks were run at a very high idle with momentary runs up to about 3/4 throttle. I never let the engine temperature exceed 230 degrees. The engine was very rich, so much so that when higher throttle was applied fuel was spitting out of the pipe. I will lean it about 1/4 - 1/2 turn on the next tank. So far I am quite impressed with this engine. I have read many posts about people having problems tuning or getting this SS engine started. So far I have not hada problem.

How long have you had your SS?

[RichieRich]

dmrcflyr2 - I've had my SS since the middle of July. It's very nice. The 12R SS is my third nitro engine also. It runs very well. It will generally keep up with my brother's NTC3 with a OS TR but his has a little better acceleration and top speed. I replaced the stock clutch with the MIP racing clutch and it made things significantly better.

Yeah, I don't understand why people have been reporting problems with their 12R SS. If you go over to the HPI board, there's nothing but people complaining about how their engine broke or whatever. I think it's just user error. :eek:

I recently bought the HPI threaded shocks. I really haven't had the chance to see if they make the car handle any better. They probably don't but I like the way they look. :)

[fastharry]

if you think you like the SS motor......you should see mine.I've had my SS for around 2 months....with 2 tc3 nitros,(and 3 RB racer2's and Impulse).I bought the SS just to hack around with a PS parking lot car,and to enter in the HPI challenge in NY...(9th a main,4 th in Super nitro A main).....I started to race the car on out tues nite racing...I wanted to see how good the car really was....everyone by us has Impulse's and Nitro tc3's..all have 5 port RB's RE's....(mine included)....I started with the SS,and was amazed how,even though the car was slower on the straights,and even lacking the low end punch those cars have,it still managed to beat 'em through a tight infield....Suffice to say,I've worked with the car,went to a CVR 12 (side exhaust)...it still needed more power,so I just put a RE RB turbo 3 port in it....if you think the car is fast stock,you ought to see it go with a RB.....It comes out of a corner like it was shot out of a cannon...and doesn't spin or get twitchy like a racer 2....I'm going to sell one of my tc3's....

[pickle]

fastharry selling a tc3?! nnooo.... must be a pretty good SS, im waiting for my car, its somewhere in the mail hopefully

[fastharry]

before you guys all get crazy,I'll tell you this..I've spnet money on the SS that you wouldn't have to spend on the TC3 nitro...threaded shocks,cvd's,HPI super chassis,HD gears,stainless brake are just a few....and the car,even though being a Quantum improvement over the racer2,is no tc3....BUT,if you know how to tune a car,in the right hands,itwill catch any pro car on a club course,cause it does have a tremendous amount of low speed steering..none of that pushing feeling that the tc3 has..in fact,I will tell you,that under gas,my car holds a tighter line around a corner then any car I own...

and part of the reason I own it is I suffered so long with the rs4's,if feels good to have a HPI that can actually be driven hard..plus,I enjoy the forums talking to HPI guys....when we go racing,I'm like MR HPI,always helping the newbs and stuff like that..I enjoy the "hobby aspect" that HPI brings...

the other reason,is that I enjoy tinkering...I got bored with the tc3's..I'd race,the car would be fast,I'd come home,clean it,set it up,now what do I do?....with the SS,I get to enjoy hop-ups etc...

so in the end,you have to decide what you want....if you want cutting edge technology,and the BEST race car you can play with...the tc3 gets it done..performance,value,quality....BUT,if you ant to be alittle different,and you want a terrific value in a a parking lot basher,that with some dough thrown in can be a decent,competent race car(well,maybe more than that),the SS is your ticket...

[pickle]

ah fair nuff, im prob neva gonna spend that much money on my ss unless its over a long period of time, if i was gonna race, i woulda gone a diff car though

[DannyBoy05]

hey. i remember reading in an issue of rcca about aluminum 2speed gears for the nitro 3, but now i cant find the issue and i cant remember who made em. ive looked all over the net but i still cant find em. if n e one has the issue or knows where to find them please reply. thanks

daniel

[Kodiak31415]

I am a nitro newbie looking to buy a first car. I have a little experience in running electric cars but i am looking for more of a challange/fun. My friends go to a school parking lot and set up a make shift track on the weekend, so mostly i would be running it in a parking lot either draging or racing. I have been told to look at hpi cars and the rs4 3 ss seems to be what I will get. Does anyone have any advice that they can give about the car, either before i buy it or while im building it???

[abiye]

i'm a newbie too.. just ordered my ss with an airtronics mx-3 radio. the kit was 469 and the radio 189 both prices in canadian dollars. i got it from www.greathobbies.com, i found them to be way cheaper than any LHS in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area for those who aren't from around here), shipping charge was only like 15 bucks and thats express post (2 days). there was a post i read a while ago for an online store from japan but i don't remember the website but stuff was cheap there too... i don't know about shipping form japan tough and the site seemed a little fishy to me so i went with greathobbies... well i hope that helps

[puma1824]

Just wanted to post my RS4 3 SS. The only thing that's original is the 2 speed, bearings, "some" screws, suspension arms, misc plastic pieces.

Oh yeah special thanks to Fastharry, Topkatz, and Wolfgang...with all your advise this is what I had created. :)

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_01.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_02.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_03.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_Back.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_RearExhaust.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Front.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_AngleBack.jpg

-Puma

[Logi]

Hey everyone,

I just got a RS4 3 type SS!!! What hopups do you think i should get to improve my car's speed and performance?I'm a newbie so i don't know what parts to get! Plz help!!!

[FrankT]

here's myss I just got done building

[FrankT]

picture2

[FrankT]

picture 3- I bought this car because all I really do is backyard bash. Is this a good parking lot car.....
Thanks Frank

[fLyPiNoY7]

my ss...a few mods...

[EngineChauffer]

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum, and yes I have searched but found tons of posts on this subject but no real good answers or info that I am looking for.

So here goes...

I am strongly considering purchasing a RS4-SS with a friend to mostly use in parking lots but occasionally race. With that in mind, what hop ups offer better performannce for this car?

I don't care about shiny stuff. BUT if it is a piece that will improve the cars performance then great. If it adds alot of weight and does nothing, I don't want it. If you don't mind, please list what you feel is necessary to upgrade right out of the box, and then make another list of things that would be nice to have. That way I can prioritize my purchases. If you can, please provide a link to where I can buy this stuff or at least check it out with a name of what it is so I can search it out on a site. That is where I will do my buying.

I asked in the electronics forum, but might as well ask here also since it directly relates to this car.

Please recommend what bang for your buck radio setup would be. It would be great if you could include links or info where I can purchase this stuff online. (LHS around my area pretty much ****)

--Transmitter (2 or 3 channel FM is what I want)

--Reciever box (do all transmitters come with these? if not, please recommend a compatible one)

--Servos (I want digital as I have heard they are the best. High torque for steering would be nice also)

--Do they sell rechargable battery packs for this car? (drop in would be the best) Please recommend a compatible charger if you know of a pack. What system should I get? 4.8 or 6 volt?

PLEASE make recommendations. I would be willing to spend anwhere between 100 and 300 for the radio equipment so let it rip guys.


Sorry bout the long post, but I want to buy good stuff for this car, I don't want anything half assed. Good equipment in my mind should last longer, perform better, and justify the higher price.

Thanks,

--Ed

[trickedoutGT]

Hi guys! mind if i post a pic of my car?

[trickedoutGT]

another:

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by puma1824
Just wanted to post my RS4 3 SS. The only thing that's original is the 2 speed, bearings, "some" screws, suspension arms, misc plastic pieces.

Oh yeah special thanks to Fastharry, Topkatz, and Wolfgang...with all your advise this is what I had created. :)

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_01.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_02.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_03.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_Back.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_RearExhaust.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Front.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_AngleBack.jpg

-Puma where did you get that header from? thanks!

[FrankT]

Hello everyone,just finishing my ss and having a little trouble.I also have a gs storm so I planned on using the radio from that and I bought the same servo's and recevier.now why can't I get anything to move ,just twitches....that digital FM radio is a little confussing to me..
Thanks frank

[Got Chow]

I just got a RS4 3 SS w/ a Futaba 2peka radio a couple days ago too. I bought the kit as I have never liked RTR kits personally. I like the process of putting it together and didn't find it too out of this world challenging. A couple misleading things here and there but I got the entire kit put together solidly without having to ghetto-fy anything, which is an accomplishment in itself for me. :)

This is my first nitro car and I'm just now getting back into the R/C hobby after a 4 year absence since my electric days. (I remember getting the original HPI RS4 elec. when it first came out! And the TA03-F Pro that I got in Hong Kong for $US120 when it first came out!!!) I got into real cars and sold the R/C to get money for parts. ;) But now after having raced real cars and it is getting insanely expensive, I think I'll go back to R/Cs and not worry about crashing them or spending a couple hundred bucks just to get out on a road course...

I'm wondering if there are people in the Sacramento area that are pretty good with tuning and racing that could give me a hand. I go to school in UC Davis and could always use a hand in some tuning. I'm totally new to nitro engines and I think I have it running OK but it could use some double checking I'm sure. The most basic mods to help the handling would be helpful too. For now, the car has enough power for me. Only real complaint is that 1st gear seems to be geared a bit tall. Anyone agree or is it just me?? :confused:

I'm not planning on any hop ups except for tires (maybe) and springs / shocks (a bigger maybe). I figure I'd go and learn to drive the darn thing before I start dropping money into it. Seen plenty of that with real cars... People putting $10k into M3's and I beat them at the autocross in a measly handling Camaro. So... I know most of the basics from 1:1 scale racing but could use some help with racing scaled down 10 times! :)

Any tips on anything including the car and some minor hop ups would be greatly appreciated. And if anybody in the Davis / Sacramento area want to go and bash around and BS around, I'm all for it. PM me or e-mail me!

[Bullet 87]

Ok....i have been into nitro minster trucks for about a year now and i want a street car. I am intersted in the RS4 3 RTR cuz its pretty cheap and rtr. But i don't kno if it has a two speed and if it don't i am gonna get 1 for it. But dunno how much. Or i would liek the RS4 3 ss but its prebuilt and pretty much. So whats ur opinion?

[trickedoutGT]

i would get the rs4 3 ss becuase its a kit and it comes with two speed and a better engine.

if you get the RTR 3 you would have to get the two speed which is around 60 bucks.

[OmegaTrac]

Hey Guys,
I have been racing Offroad Nitro for a year now. Im going to be getting involved in onroad nitro soon. At the track, I so quite a few people running the RS4 3. Tell me if this is a good deal:
OS CVR .12 engine that has a total of 10 tanks
hpi 2-speed tranny installed with new engine
Tubular Hpi header w/ assocated pipe
new a-arms/hub carriers
Threaded shocks
Titanium turnbuckles
Shinny rear CVD's
New custom painted Proline Stratus body
http://home.earthlink.net/~tntreiner/_uimages/rsrpacakagedeal.jpg

How will I do racing? Will I be competitive?

[KyoGun]

I personally don't have a SS kit, but my buddy has one. We both noticed that this chasis mounts it's pipe on the opposite side, compared to others, so finding a tuned pipe was quite difficult. But my friend was able to find a THS tuned piped from TowerHobbies.com. The THS tuned pipe is the exact one reccomended by HPIracing from their website. Hope this helps.

[ASSASSIN]

Man, I was considering getting the rs4 ss as my 1st nitro car, but now that I read this thread, Im definatly going to get one. Looks sweet, cant wait.

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/bounce.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/clock.gif

[puma1824]

Originally posted by trickedoutGT
where did you get that header from? thanks!

It's a NTC3 rear exhaust header/manifold.

-Puma

[anothermbdusted]

ok let me get this strieght the engine that comes with the car is pretty easy to keep tuned and runs ok for a beginner.So is the rs4 3ss better then the origanal super size? do most hobby shops carry parts for these kits and are they pretty durable to run.i had a nitro 4tec but didnt like the engine in it hard to keep tuned. every day it seemed like i had to adjust the thing and my freind has a os engine and almost never adjusts it and runs good all the time. so how often do you got to adjust it is it an easy engine to learn how to or set it and just go or what.please help with this as i loved my car but hated the engine in it.is it louder then the traxxas engine or the same about and can you run it on unprepared asphalt lke a normal street.sorry so long thanks

[ahfookjai]

Vance Scott:


Does your pipe comes off while running.....I just bought a Pico header for my rear exhaust but I thought the only way I can put it on my car is to drillholes. After seeing your pic, I might skip drilling th holes. The tune pipe is at an extreme angle.. PLease let me know how it's going for you.


Ahfookjai

[ahfookjai]

Vance,

HAs the pipe ever fall off on you? Seems like the angle on it is a little toomuch. I just bought the rtr 3 with a rear exhaust engine mounted but I haven't put in the header and exhaust yet because i don't have a powerful enough drill to put wo holes on the header. Please let me know how it's going?

Ahfookjai

[ahfookjai]

We should all gang up on hpi and ask them to make a front A-arm upgrade for the rtr3. Even my brother's kyosho spider has one!!! I know those guys can think of something because I hate how the front arm flex so much.

[ASSASSIN]

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
RPM turnbuckles & RB turbo pipe.

Where did you get the purple ball cups?

[ASSASSIN]

TopKatz

Will the cvec dual work with the stock manifold? Or whats the best one to buy? Also, I love the way your silver and metalic red acura looks. Mind if I steal that design? :D (Im not very creative, I know:rolleyes: )

[ASSASSIN]

Originally posted by puma1824
Just wanted to post my RS4 3 SS. The only thing that's original is the 2 speed, bearings, "some" screws, suspension arms, misc plastic pieces.

Oh yeah special thanks to Fastharry, Topkatz, and Wolfgang...with all your advise this is what I had created. :)

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_01.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_02.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_03.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_Back.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Puma_RearExhaust.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_Front.jpg

http://www.deleos.com/images/Edited/RS4_3_SS_AngleBack.jpg

-Puma


Where did you get all the parts you used for that? Like online websites I mean.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by ASSASSIN
Where did you get all the parts you used for that? Like online websites I mean.

Everywhere!

Towerhobbies.com
Buy HPI
Brucknerhobbies.com
stormerhobbies.com
meganritro.com
horizonhobbies.com
rcboyz.com
and local shops

-Puma

[ASSASSIN]

Thanks. That actualy narrows it down alot from the like 50 different online hobby shops I have in my favorites. :D

[cbr74]

Just one question: Who makes that fiber radio plate and where can I get it?

Thanks

Oops.. nevermind.. answered my own question. Hot Bodies 61137.

I do have a ? for the RS4 3 gurus though... what universals to run? I've seen uni's from HPI, GH, and MTC (I think)... no clue which ones would be the better choice? Does MIP make CVD's that fit the RS4 3? If so... please post some part #'s.

Thanks (again)

[NitroJoe]

Here mine

[fastharry]

Originally posted by cbr74
Just one question: Who makes that fiber radio plate and where can I get it?

Thanks

Oops.. nevermind.. answered my own question. Hot Bodies 61137.

I do have a ? for the RS4 3 gurus though... what universals to run? I've seen uni's from HPI, GH, and MTC (I think)... no clue which ones would be the better choice? Does MIP make CVD's that fit the RS4 3? If so... please post some part #'s.

Thanks (again)

the std. MIP/HPI cvd's that went on the racer2 fir the rs43...

[cbr74]

Thank you.

[Gee]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
Here mine

Nitro joe, i have a newbee question, what is the tie rap on the heat sink for ?

[fastharry]

stops the head fron getting scratched ....

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by Gee
Nitro joe, i have a newbee question, what is the tie rap on the heat sink for ?

It protect the heat sicnk when the car flip over. It happened to me one when I hit the curb and it scrat the Heat S.

[Gee]

Thank you very much.

I cant wait to break the engine in !!!

I borrow my bro radio and receiver (from a plane) it dosent fit in the space i have , it fits but need rubber band to hold it, but if i just do the break in with it, it wont hurt anything ?

I just cant wait to hear that thing run !!!!

Sorry but i am an exited newbee, i use to have a kyosho outlaw and a tamya f-1, all electric, the f-1 could reach 30 mph, so i cant wait to see the difference with nitro engine, 4 minutes with the electric is not very long when you have to wait 15 minutes each time to recharge !!

Thanks for your help !

[Gee]

Here is some pictures of my rs4 ss, its my first one , and i am totaly addict !!!:D

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0003.JPG

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0004.JPG

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0005.JPG

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0010.JPG

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0008.JPG

[Justin9]

Can anyone help me find some more 2-speed gears for my RTR 3? I have the 18-43 22-47 gears, but I need some more... I actually ran my car this weekend in a race and I was sloooowwww..... I can't seem to find any help from HPI's website...

[cbr74]

From HPI's site:

#76977 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 17T $5.00
#76978 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 18T $5.00
#76979 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 19T $5.00
#76981 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 21T $5.00
#76982 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 22T $5.00
#76983 Aluminum Threaded Pinion Gear 23T $5.00

If you're looking for more top end, you can go up a tooth on the bells to 19 and 23 respectively.

[Justin9]

do they not sell different spur gears? that's how I use to change the ratio on my old rs4-2... I have been out of r/cing for about 5 months so I didn't get to do much with my rtr 3.... now I'm looking for gears and I couldn't find any spurs... I guess they just went to all pinion adjustments...

[cbr74]

I don't know of any optional spurs as of yet... but give them time. The Nitro 3 is still fairly new, I'm sure optional spurs will be available eventually.

[Justin9]

how much difference do you think the different pinions will make? I was mid-speed compare to everyone else... I actually wound up winning because they had a pile-up.... and I could run WOT... on an oval track.

I should add that everyone else is running RS4-2s with the Superspeedway gears... like 19-whatever... I can remember what they are... the fastest gears you can get for the rs4-2 two speed.

[NitroJoe]

:eek: niceeeee! have a lot of bashing fun

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by Gee
Here is some pictures of my rs4 ss, its my first one , and i am totaly addict !!!:D

http://www.r1-forum.com/upload/members/pictures/255/DCP_0008.JPG

:eek: niceeeee! have a lot of bashing fun

[Rdub202]

which is better the rs4 3 or the nitro tc3????

(my first nitro car)

[rs4-3]

Originally posted by Rdub202
which is better the rs4 3 or the nitro tc3????

(my first nitro car)

Rdub202 the RS4 3 is the best for bashing and you
can race with it and maybe come in first with the help of some hopups
but for all out racing the TC3

[ASSASSIN]

First nitro car, deffinetly go with the RS4.,

[Vmax911]

Does anyone here have a Nitro MT? If so, could you tell me how "similiar" it is to an RS4 3. I have an old MT laying around and I am thinking about converting it to an on-road shaft car (I alreay have a Racer and a Racer 2).

[Bigdan73]

Vmaxx 9/11 Hey if you wanna buy an RS4 3SS I have one that hasnt even been started yet. I put it together and the n got a deal on an oval car So I am selling it for 10 bucks less that I bought it for.

[rookie12]

does the rtr3 have a plastic disc brake like the ss and if so would
a disc brake for anitro rs4 fit

[Bigdan73]

rookie, Yes it does have a plastic brake and a carbon fiber does fit.

[rookie12]

whats better for parking lot racing the nitro tc3 rtr or the rs4 rtr

[T/Losi]

Hi,
How realiable are the HPI RS4 SS
I might get one and does anyone know when HPI Forums will be back online

Cheers

[TrinityRacer]

hey im just now getting into onroad cars, ive been in offroad for about 4 years. i love the rs4 type 3 ss. theres a really nice road course around where i live. i think this would be a good set up for it. what do you think?

White AE springs in front
Green AE springs in back
40wt oil in Front and Rear
Robinson Racing Duel vented Disc breaks
Proline V rage S3 compound tires
MIP shiny CVD's
Sway bars(which color??)
Hitec high torque steering servo

obviously this is handling options. i dont know to much about setting up for onroad but to me this sounds like the best for an assfaulted serface. also how good are these engine.. i like the 1+ horsepower but ive heard different things about this.

thanks

[00soul]

how fast will a nrs4 3 RTR go stock?? if tuned properly that is

[fastharry]

25

[ponky_wonky]

u sure its that slow>
i would say about 30mph

[fastharry]

when tc3 RTR does 40,and will outhandle a rs4 3,does 5 mph really make a difference?

[ponky_wonky]

lol, i guess no:p
but when a pro driver uss that rs4 3 rtr and some newbie comes with V One RR, who do u think will win?:rolleyes:

[fastharry]

the newbie....The pro will take the rtr3 off the track in half a lap...........

[TrinityRacer]

everyone at my track said that the rs4 ss isnt worth the money.. i dont really see how this is. according to them it wont compete with yokomos, AE, or mugen no matter how much money you drop in it. what do yall this

EDIT nevermind... ive read to many good things about this car. dont even know why i asked. oh by the way.. thanks topcatz for the vidoes you posted. it helped out alot

[ponky_wonky]

Originally posted by fastharry
the newbie....The pro will take the rtr3 off the track in half a lap...........
lol, waht makes u so confident that the rs4 3 is such and un-reliable car?

[fastharry]

because,unlike 90% of the people who post,I actually biuld,own and race all the cars I comment on....I have a SS.....I've driven RTR rs4 3's,I have 2 tc3 nitro's....have driven and raced RTR tc3's.....work part time at a hobby shop,race every week,invite newbies and pro's alike to rtace with us...well,you get the idea..

[RS4 3]

Here are the pics of my touring car I am selling it, it is a RS4 3, it is in very good conditions, has been raced about 3 times, the engine was broken in very good, top speed is about 40 mph, nothing has been broken on it, every thing is set right,manual,catalog,and the box that it came with is included.The engine is the HPI .15FE very fast. Also comes with an extra 4 racing tires and rims, they are soft yokomo tires with white gumby rims. Brand New body(Mercedes CLK GTR) that i just painted and everything, also come with old body(stratus).
I am selling this car because im going out of the hobbie,
PRICE $250 with shipping included
thank you very much

here are the pics
http://community.webshots.com/user/kutiu

[sebtarta]

Well, as my HPI forum is not goin to be there anymore, I've decided to join all of you here. The main reason of my "WHY WHY WHY!!!" is because winter is here and its too cold to run the cars outside.
I should probably move to a different location where there is sun 24/7/365 (leap 366) :D
Well I hope everything is good.
Good luck, :)

[ALJR]

lol... seems like quite a few HPI forum guys are now using this forum (including my self)... this is my first post here, so i thought i would post a couple of pics (i i can figure out how).... i have a few cars: an rtr3, type ss, 2 nmt and a savage on back order. one of the nmt's is converted to a super nitro .21 and the other nmt is just a .21...

any ways, here is a shot of my type ss

[rs4-3]

i have seen that car on the now dead HPI forun
nice car

[fastharry]

hmmm

[fastharry]

hmmm

[RS4 3]

nice

[TopKatz]

sup guys!

is the HPI forum gome for good?

[RS4 3]

i dont know, but that piece of zhit is pissing me off!seriously!
why the hell did they shut it down?

[fastharry]

who cares...now we can post real thoughts on HPI cars without HPI STAFF pulling out legs....BTW,check thsi forum out,and spread the word http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/


BTW,TOP KATZ........I picked up a used reflex......its a way better car than a SS.........and cheaper...(though not as good as my Tc3 nitro's;) ))

[TopKatz]

RFX owns!!!!

I give the NTC3's all they can handle ; )

[puma1824]

Fastharry,

Why no C/F upper deck?

-Puma

[fastharry]

waiting for hpi to come out with theirs...and to be honest,I'm off the SS bandwagon......I decided,towards the end of teh season,that I would time myself with my Orion lap counter and see which car was faster(impulse,tc3,SS)......bad news for HPI..on a std,UNTREATED parking lot surface,the SS gets smoked....

fastest?.....Tc3 nitro....the faster you drive the car,the more stable it gets......teh reverse is true for the HPI......

and now with HPI cancelling the forum?.......you know what?.....alot of people bought HPI BECAUSE of that forum(me included).....so with no race car to their credit,plus no forum?......I don't know,the whole thing turns me off...


so I cancelled my savage.....and shelvedb the SS..next year I'm running tc3's....

[TopKatz]

Yeah Im thinking of puting a old radio system in my SS so that other people can use it. I have a couple of budies who dont have cars...it would be cool if they could use the SS...that way it gets some use.... since I got the RFX I think I ran the SS once.

[ASSASSIN]

Originally posted by fastharry
....and shelvedb the SS..next year I'm running tc3's....

Ill take it! :D

[puma1824]

Originally posted by ASSASSIN
Ill take it! :D

You looking for one???

[vegetto]

Ayone know any other chasis than the one HPI makes? And what chasis do you recommend for the ss?

Thx

[ASSASSIN]

Yes, but Id rather buy a new one.

[Vmax911]

Dang, I know someone makes a chassis for the rs4 3 but I can't think of the name!

HPI also makes an upgraded "super" chassis...

[puma1824]

Originally posted by Vmax911
Dang, I know someone makes a chassis for the rs4 3 but I can't think of the name!

HPI also makes an upgraded "super" chassis...

GPM and GH makes an upgrade chassis also.

[vegetto]

Originally posted by puma1824
GPM and GH makes an upgrade chassis also.

I cant find those chassis in towerhobbies. Do you know the links to them? Thx

I already know about the hpi superchassis, its just that I want to try something else out.

[00soul]

in the next week or so im going to get the hpi 2 speed for my RTR3. my throttle and brake linkages are set up pretty good and im wondering if i would need to mess with them in order to put it in. also how hard of a job is it? this is my first nitro but ive had about 3 electric kits so i got all the tools and what not, does the 2 speed come with instructions?

oh yeah, BTW how much (estimated) speed will it add?

[vegetto]

Originally posted by vegetto
I cant find those chassis in towerhobbies. Do you know the links to them? Thx

I already know about the hpi superchassis, its just that I want to try something else out.


Is there a set of titanium turnbuckles out for our cars?? If so can you give me a link to them. Thx:)

[cbr74]

Stormer Hobbies has the GH chassis in stock for $59.95. Part GH02011.

Stormer (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=GH02011)

[rs4-3]

THE GH chassis rocks.:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by vegetto
Is there a set of titanium turnbuckles out for our cars?? If so can you give me a link to them. Thx:)



the lunsford racing: punisher series the usually cost from 25.00-30.00
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXY741&P=0

get 3 sets of those and use that with with rpm heavy duty ball caps.


Btw
HPI is shooting themselves in the foot by taking out thier forum. that is why i also bought the (2) rs4 3's i have. and also built one from scratch.

[vegetto]

thx for the link for turnbuckles.

I only bought the SS becuz of their forum too. HPI is really.....
But I still love my SS.

[00soul]

hi, im just wondering if there is a notacible difference with the high flow headers (the 14 dollar black one)

BTW this if for a rs4 3 RTR, the only mod is a racing clutch

[fastharry]

thats also why I bought mine....and kept all the HPI's I already have...


w/o the forum,and the fun that entails with HPI's products,I don't need to run their NON-COMPETITIVE products......

I will stick with my TC3 nitro's next year....the SS is on the shelf..and I would encourage and future users of teh SS or RTR3 to consider this....




BTW,I was first on teh list for the savage at tower......

as sson as they cancelled the forum,I cancelled the Savage...



lets see "HPI STAFF" stick their two cents in on this forum...:mad:

[puma1824]

Originally posted by fastharry
thats also why I bought mine....and kept all the HPI's I already have...


w/o the forum,and the fun that entails with HPI's products,I don't need to run their NON-COMPETITIVE products......

I will stick with my TC3 nitro's next year....



lets see "HPI STAFF" stick their two cents in on this forum...:mad:

I second that...I happen to do the switch/purchase around the same time. Without the forum doesn't seem as "fun." I too will probably end up shelving mine. :( Maybe I'll try the Reflex/V one R next.

-Puma

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by puma1824
I second that...I happen to do the switch/purchase around the same time. Without the forum doesn't seem as "fun." I too will probably end up shelving mine. :( Maybe I'll try the Reflex/V one R next.

-Puma

I sold my nephew SS yesterday. I still have my SS, but I am not to buy any hopup. My next is Mugen MTX3 or V-1 RR.

[nMotion96]

on step 10 i can't get part a558 to go into the hole in part a855. it seems that the hole in a855 is alittle small. is there a trick on getting this done

also on part 4, i was wondering are the part # on the spur gears miss label cause it said part 76843 43t spur but on mine it said 76813 43t, and for the 47t spur the part #76817 i have part# 76867

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by nMotion96
on step 10 i can't get part a558 to go into the hole in part a855. it seems that the hole in a855 is alittle small. is there a trick on getting this done

also on part 4, i was wondering are the part # on the spur gears miss label cause it said part 76843 43t spur but on mine it said 76813 43t, and for the 47t spur the part #76817 i have part# 76867

there may be a little bit of excess material on the A855 try to see if there is. there should be no trick to installing this part. if there isnt try applying some diff grease on A558 prior to installing into A855....and then there is the alternative put some muscle into it;) j/k:p

im not to sure about the second part. but if it fits and says 43 t and 47 t it should be fine. that and the fact that it lines up with A882. the numbers look like they might be a misprint like you said good luck:)

[nMotion96]

nope i had some bad parts. so i had to drive to hpi today and they exchanged the parts for me

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by nMotion96
nope i had some bad parts. so i had to drive to hpi today and they exchanged the parts for me

ewwww:(

[ALJR]

Originally posted by fastharry
thats also why I bought mine....and kept all the HPI's I already have...


w/o the forum,and the fun that entails with HPI's products,I don't need to run their NON-COMPETITIVE products......

I will stick with my TC3 nitro's next year....the SS is on the shelf..and I would encourage and future users of teh SS or RTR3 to consider this....




BTW,I was first on teh list for the savage at tower......

as sson as they cancelled the forum,I cancelled the Savage...



lets see "HPI STAFF" stick their two cents in on this forum...:mad:


hahaha....

i just got a ntc3 and cancelled my back ordered savage from tower as well :)

but i am not going to shelf my ss, im gonna run it when im not racing..

[fastharry]

you'll love the car..need any help,just ask..........I'm on teh RC tech and zone tc3 forums.....

[four20]

hi everyone, I have a rs4-3ss and have futaba S3003 servos for both steering and throttle. well the throttle servo is fine and so was the steering servo. it seemed to be ok and have enough torque to turn the wheels, but then I changed the stock ball cups to the rpm heavy duty ones and it made a snug fit on the steering linkage, cause of the snug fit my servo doesnt seem to have enough torque or speed for the steering. what do you guys think, should I change my steering servo if so which one would you recommend? I also wanted to know if anyone else had this problem when putting rpm ball cups or rod ends on their car. oh, almost forgot mention that I am using 4 regular AA batteries for the receiver not a 6.0 v Rx pack. thanks in advance.:)

[MILLER_MP6]

ok so i know this question comes up alot ... but....
im looking into nitro on-road after many years of off-roading...
my question is... is the NTC3 better for racing than the RS4 3??

ive read review after review but am still undecided??!!

any input would be great!

thanks

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by MILLER_MP6
ok so i know this question comes up alot ... but....
im looking into nitro on-road after many years of off-roading...
my question is... is the NTC3 better for racing than the RS4 3??

ive read review after review but am still undecided??!!

any input would be great!

thanks

The following are better than the rs4 3(race wise): (no specific order in which is better) associated tc3, trinity reflex, serpent 705/impulse, koyosho v-one-r, mugen(forgot model name :o), and yokomo gt4. these are all race cars out of the box better center of gravity, better suspension geometry. You have to invest alot of money to get an rs4 3 within a stones throw of those cars ... im not saying that the hpi is a bad car by no means its not.. i own three r$4 3 and they run great for me. but theres always that nagging feeling in the back of my head the car can be better. its cheaper to get a race car like the reflex which has every hopup known to men for a mere $280.(of course no motor or radio). but if you figure $150 for motor sirio outlaw and a futaba or airtronics radio and servos $75 your looking at $505. i know for a fact that i have spent well over 505 to supe up the r$4 3. its a fun car but it can be better (the varying levels of the r$4 3 from RTR to Type SS to I dont know what to lable it.:D
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/141666_3218432988104410219_vl.jpghttp://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/141667_7855843407035500439_vl.jpg

[pickle]

can ne one help me my prob on my ss?

its hard 2 xplain so bear with me
this is a pic of sorta where the prob is [this is not my SS]
http://www.geocities.com/specr666/2spd.html

if u look at the pic, u should see the purple mark on it on this side the things that the screws screw in2 [the screws that hold the 2spd cover dwn] are abt 5mm higher than the other side, making the cover sit lopsided

are they meant to b higher? or should i trim them down the same height???

plz help cuz i cant drive till this is fixed
thanx

[MILLER_MP6]

thanks for your help mate...

thats made my decision alot easier as i was wanting to race the car

[NitroJoe]

Lightweight Flywheel. HELPPP!!

I tried installing a lightweight flywheel and I wonder can I use the stock collet or do I need to buy a difference collet. It seems that the stock collet is not flush w/ the lightweight flywheel. Thanks in advance.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
Lightweight Flywheel. HELPPP!!

I tried installing a lightweight flywheel and I wonder can I use the stock collet or do I need to buy a difference collet. It seems that the stock collet is not flush w/ the lightweight flywheel. Thanks in advance.

yes, you can use the stock collet with the light weight flywheel

pickle

i looked at your pic and i cant picture what is going on(even with the pic.... soo is the spacing at the top of the screw head or is it between the top and upper portion of the bulkhead? either way you should test fit the part b4 you screw them down. if everything is matched u you might have a case of long screws. the hpi manual is very exact in their picture/size diagrams. double check the screw length with the book.

miller_Mp6

glad to help:)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by four20
hi everyone, I have a rs4-3ss and have futaba S3003 servos for both steering and throttle. well the throttle servo is fine and so was the steering servo. it seemed to be ok and have enough torque to turn the wheels, but then I changed the stock ball cups to the rpm heavy duty ones and it made a snug fit on the steering linkage, cause of the snug fit my servo doesnt seem to have enough torque or speed for the steering. what do you guys think, should I change my steering servo if so which one would you recommend? I also wanted to know if anyone else had this problem when putting rpm ball cups or rod ends on their car. oh, almost forgot mention that I am using 4 regular AA batteries for the receiver not a 6.0 v Rx pack. thanks in advance.:)

i noticed when i installed the ballcaps on mine that everything was snuger than normal. it seems to be the norm. the servos you should consider looking at is by hitec, high torque servo. i use the HS-545BB, they have newer stuff now. remember that once you start to go digital the more expensive they get. there should be no other additional problems, unless you further tinkered with the steering assembly. good luck:)

[pickle]

hey - thanx guys but it was just a bit of stupidity on my behalf

i actually found that the 1:1 scale pictures not that detailed and exact, but im comparing this to tamiya booklets

[four20]

thanks for the reply kronicRacer, I will probally look into getting a servo with more speed and torque.:)

[Electrofied]

I experienced snug ball cups on my HPI Asian Pro-3 Spec-V... As with my RC Electric helicopter I found that if I "CAREFULLY" squeezed the ball cups with a set of pliers they would loosen up just a tad but not enough to loose the connection or gain any slop.

I also used a "VERY SMALL" amount of lube that does not eat the composite parts in the cup which helped as well.

Hope this helps,
E

[VelR3]

Hey, I have a rs4 3 with the .15 FE and I have done a few mods to my car but the most extreme or the one that I got more power with was replacing the carb.I already put the most common hop ups like HPI header,AE rpm tuned aluminium pipe,O.S air filter and the best one so far a TRX .15 traxxas carb 6mm opening.My car really screams now!! it's a totally different engine!! Today the engine moved,because of the new found power and busted the spur gear!! You have to modify the carb because they do not have the 2 holes at the base of the carb and that's the hardest part, you can even reuse the factory carb bolts and some loctite. To tell guys more it even busted the clutch with this new power. Any question post it here.
Thanx

[KronicRacer]

SWEET those are awsome findings. how much does the carb cost? i think i may dust off my 15 fe and try this. btw hpi sells the stage 2 and 3 uprgades that supposedly do the same thing.

[VelR3]

Well the carb cost me nothing,a friend of mine gave it to me.I know HPI has those stage kits but remember the traxxas carb is 6mm compared to the HPI 5.5mm upgrade also if I'm not mistaken the HPI still has 1 needle adjustment!!

Good luck!!:)

[rico750sxi]

HPI has a two needle upgrade for the .15FE.

[s9am_me]

yeah my friend also gave me his carb from his Traxxas.. fergot which model.. but it has a fatter opening than the stock carb... also has 2 needle adjustment so i can tune the low end.. i still have to drill the holes to mount it onto the engine.. i also put on my CVEC pipe and put on a high flow aluminum header. I can't wait to try it out!!! the only thing thats holding my back is that i can't find my drill.. i have to wait until next week to use my friends drill :(

[rico750sxi]

the HPI 2 needle is part #1634. Tower doesn't list it as a 2 needle but in RCCA's test of the RTR3(june 2002) they installed and tested it.

[rico750sxi]

I just got my rs43(RTR), what would be the first mods. you guys would make?

[KronicRacer]

motor saver air filter first. then get the HPI race header, go for a pipe after that.

[rico750sxi]

hpi race header, as in the on that comes on the ss? I heard good things about putting the T-Maxx header on, is this true? Thanks for the reply.

[show2ime]

What is a good gear ratio for the super nitro? I am putting a .21 on it and wanted some ideas. I usually run a ntc3 so I am new to hpi products. Just going to use it for some drag racing....

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
hpi race header, as in the on that comes on the ss? I heard good things about putting the T-Maxx header on, is this true? Thanks for the reply.

the ss race header yes, you can also use the tc3 header..... and it is tru about the tmaxx header....i also heard somewhere else that you might have to bend it somewhat to get it to fit.

also has anyone used the hotbodies centerforce clutch? if so how well does it engage compared to the raceing clutch. i just got one off of ebay to try it out for myself here is the link.http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=1923745399&rd=1

show2ime: try this thread super nitro forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35866) they will have better info than this thread about the gearing for the SN

[puma1824]

Originally posted by KronicRacer

also has anyone used the hotbodies centerforce clutch? if so how well does it engage compared to the raceing clutch.

-hmmm, I was thinking about getting one too BUT the only thing I'm worried about is if it requires a SG shaft engine. Let me know what you find out after receiving it. Furthermore does it work with the standard HPI NON-Pull-start engine mounts? I have a rear-exhaust, non-pull engine in mine and I would need to be to start it with a starter box.

LMK,
Puma

[fastharry]

why not go on HPI's new forum and ask HPI STAFF what would work?......they're the RACING experts:rolleyes:

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
why not go on HPI's new forum and ask HPI STAFF what would work?......they're the RACING experts:rolleyes:

LMAO he said racing experts :D good one

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by puma1824
-hmmm, I was thinking about getting one too BUT the only thing I'm worried about is if it requires a SG shaft engine. Let me know what you find out after receiving it. Furthermore does it work with the standard HPI NON-Pull-start engine mounts? I have a rear-exhaust, non-pull engine in mine and I would need to be to start it with a starter box.

LMK,
Puma

That's very funny :D

[puma1824]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
That's very funny :D

why funny????????????

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by puma1824
why funny????????????

good question.:confused:

[Whatsnext]

I would like a heavier duty exhaust manifold because when i get t-boned on that side the original manifold bends and leaks at the head. What would fit? I also will be changeing the exhaust pipe so any suggestions would be appriciated. Thank you.

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by fastharry
why not go on HPI's new forum and ask HPI STAFF what would work?......they're the RACING experts:rolleyes:

Sorry Puma, I mean the above is funny:D

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by fastharry
why not go on HPI's new forum and ask HPI STAFF what would work?......they're the RACING experts:rolleyes:

This is Funy 1:D , not you Puma. Sorry

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
This is Funy 1:D , not you Puma. Sorry

now that we got that cleared up....... still waiting for the new clutch assembly. should be in by next week the latest..

[tmaxx_1]

hello, i was wondering if the traxxas trx 2.5 engine will fit in the rs4 3, or the a.e.ntc3 anyone try this?

[JeffRS4_3ss]

Here's my car~ :D

[JeffRS4_3ss]

And heres another~

[KronicRacer]

i got the clutch in its for SG shaft motors....... i cant install it yet . also what i saw is that it eliminates the flywheel in its entirety so i cant answer the S/B question. so in final sg shaft motors can now be used on the rs43. and again its still up in the air about the starter box. T.B.C................
:)

[RCRACER2471]

what were the first things you upgraded on your RS4???

[nigel1210]

can anyone help i need to set my mixture control needle/screw back to it's factory setting of 3 1/2 turns counter clockwise.

The manual says i need to give full throttle then turn it 3 1/2 turn ccw.

But do i have to screw the needle in fully then turn it 3 1/2 turns out or do it so it's flush and the do 3 1/2 turns, when it's at full throttle?

I have got the hpi rs4/3 type ss with the .12ss engine.

Any ideas

[KronicRacer]

just aquired the wolfpackradicals 2speed. still have to get a a new sg shaft motor which is gonna have to use a sb (havent found any with a pullstart). may even get rear exhaust and forget about the pullstart completly. have to find lower motor mounts if i go the starter box route(wolfpack radicals). also found out the centax style clutch, i got by hotbodies, can be used with the starterbox too.


rcracer2471:
first thing i upgraded was the exhaust and muffler then tires and flywheel.

nigel1210:
with the motor NOT running, electronics on ONLY. turn it clockwise to close it al the way, do not overtighten it if you overtighten you may strip the thread. now with the reciever at full throttle(with the motor still not running making sure the carb is open) do the 3 1/2 turns counter clockwise. after this you should be able to start the motor and start to tune it.

tmaxx_1
if the motor is a .15 i dont see why it would not fit on the car. one of the tougher things to do to it is setting up the slidecarb. but its should fit (i think)

[nigel1210]

so i've got the motor off and the electronics off, do i close the low end needle it all the way with the throttle full or neutral?

Also is the screw supposed to stick out or should it be flush?


Originally posted by KronicRacer

nigel1210:
with the motor NOT running, electronics on ONLY. turn it clockwise to close it al the way, do not overtighten it if you overtighten you may strip the thread. now with the reciever at full throttle(with the motor still not running making sure the carb is open) do the 3 1/2 turns counter clockwise. after this you should be able to start the motor and start to tune it.

[dbnorton]

Has anybody used the Wolfpack Radicals 2 Speed Tranny for the RTR 3. How does it work? Does it use the same gears that come with the HPI 2 Speed?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by nigel1210
so i've got the motor off and the electronics off, do i close the low end needle it all the way with the throttle full or neutral?

Also is the screw supposed to stick out or should it be flush?

close it all the way in the neutral position. its when you open the screw up that your gonna want the throttle in the full position. the screw should stick out a little bit. 1mm at the most

dbnorton

i went ahead and got one a few days ago.... its the same style two speed that is outfitted for the ntc3 (key phrase: same style) and yes you can use the gears that come with the type ss 2 speed.. (hint) anything by wolfpack radicals is always good (hint).:)

[kojak61]

Kronic, where did you get that wolfpack 2 speed from and how much was the cost?

[nigel1210]

Originally posted by kojak61
Kronic, where did you get that wolfpack 2 speed from and how much was the cost?

you can get them directly from wolfgang at www.wolfpackradicals.com i've had a few parts from him and all have arrived within 5 days from the states(i live in u.k)

email him at Wolfpr@aol.com he will help you out he's a really friendly bloke

[japriljr]

I have the type SS and was wondering if you guys are using the
A885 Racing clutch. It states that it is for the Super and MT only.
Has anyone tried the A886 with the stiffer clutch springs?
Thanks.

[nigel1210]

Originally posted by japriljr
I have the type SS and was wondering if you guys are using the
A885 Racing clutch. It states that it is for the Super and MT only.
Has anyone tried the A886 with the stiffer clutch springs?
Thanks.

i've got the a885 for my type ss, haven't had chance to use it yet though.

[Gee]

Here are the latest , with the christmas gift on !!

Maybe some of you can help me with the spring selection, in the front i let the stock blue that came with the kit, and in the back i went with the pink one, so i have two set black (stock), one set blue, one set orange left. What is the best setup i can use to began from ?

Thanks in advance.

[Gee]

another..

[Gee]

and last ...

[CaptEvo]

Hi all,
I just ordered RS4 3 Type SS, and i have a question, hope you guys can help me out.
i just wanna have a car to bash around the parking lot. I wanna know if you geared the SS kit for better acc. then which clutch bell and spur gear should i get?
Also, how is it compare with the new nitro 4-tec (with TRX 2.5 engine)? Can I keep up with that car?
Should I keep the SS or just exchange it with the new nitro 4-tec?
Thank you.

[japriljr]

Nice shocks! I don't have a clue which springs to use. I'm new to this stuff. The rear end of our cars are heavier than the front so maybe a little stiffer for the back. Nice choice of bodies, too! I have the same one and I have a real WRX too! Both are a ton of fun to drive.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by kojak61
Kronic, where did you get that wolfpack 2 speed from and how much was the cost?

the 2 speed ran me $55$ and i got it directly from wolfpack radicals. www.wolfpackradicals.com

Gee
best suspension set up would be to(get rid of the hpi stuff:p) go with a complete set of tc3 springs.... for the front use the yellow ones with a 60 weight trinity kinwald shock oil and for the back use the tc3 red springs with 45 weight of the trinity kinwald shock oil.
if not use the blue springs you have in the back... and use the black springs in the front you always want to try to be stiff in front(no pun) and soft in the back.

CaptEvo.
this is based on the old 4-tec. the only thing it was good for was straight line acceleration. i hope traxxas resolved any of the suspension probs it has b4 they come up. if you want speed and got the money go for a shumacher fusion 3 speed. 80 mph i think (not sure on the top speed i know for a fact its something insane) the type ss is a overall good beginner car to start with not only that with the right gearing it might go around 50mph. the hpi has better potential (i think) than the 4 tec then there is the ntc3 or the rtr ntc3 rout if youve used nitro b4......:rolleyes:

japriljr
have you upgraded your real wrx? my best friend has a wrx and he just had a turbo excess stage 4 put into his wrx that thing is a bonnafied turbo musclecar now:cool:

[tl_ke_racer]

I just got a nitro rs4 3 rtr today i havetn got to run it since i got home at night it looks like a really sweet car im gonan paint my body tomorrow and then break in my car, any known weak points in the car i should know about or is it as good as people say it is? my freind ssaw it and he is jealous.

[CaptEvo]

KronicRacer,
thanks for the reply.
I don't have lota $ for the higher ends car (i wish though). Also I'm not going to races, i just want a car to bash around. But I think I'm going to keep the Type SS.
When you said if geared right, it'll go 50... is that the max it'll go?
What if I put in bigger engines (OS, Sirio...) with the right gearing... how fast would that go?

Thanks for the help.

[puma1824]

If anyone's interested in a TOTALLY hopped up RS4 3 SS...the initial price was obviously too high so if you scroll down to later messages the new price is listed.

LINK (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=831431#post831431)


-Puma

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by CaptEvo
KronicRacer,
thanks for the reply.
I don't have lota $ for the higher ends car (i wish though). Also I'm not going to races, i just want a car to bash around. But I think I'm going to keep the Type SS.
When you said if geared right, it'll go 50... is that the max it'll go?
What if I put in bigger engines (OS, Sirio...) with the right gearing... how fast would that go?

Thanks for the help.

im goning to keep modest on this one..... that is the top speed with the 12r ss. i have no idea what it would do with the sirio outlaw. im going to save that for my tc3 that i got last night :D
you also have to consider that a rear exahust will have diffliculty fitting into the car. if you dont have the super chassi, youre going to have to grind the standard chassi to clear the starter box wheel.

(but)

there is a new clutch assembly that may make it go faster due to the new clutch bell it has on it (meaning you can get different gears other than the HPI ones)...... the thing that irks me is that the faster the ss goes the more unstable it is.

[fastharry]

Applause for Kronic.........


this man gets it...and HPI does not....the faster you make a HPI,the worse it handles...


the faster you make the Tc3,the better it handles.....

HPI might be finally learning their lesson..they've been dropping the prices of their cars radically(to the hobby shops and disrtibutors).......I guess when the competition has passed you by,you have too.....


I heard losi is working on a gas car...and I think Xray is also....

having a reputation for making cars that need hop ups,and still are not raceworthy will be HPI's undoing....


HPI has always said that they were geared toward the novice..the problem is,teh TC3 rtr is a better car,just about teh same price.....and has natl champion in its title.....

[tl_ke_racer]

I got my rs4 3 broken in and painted my camero body its awesome, i havent gassed it that much but its got good bottom end power, i would agree with u that the tc3 is a better car but i think the rs4 3 is a better beginner and basher car, this si my first nitro touring car and it was very easy to get it tuned perfect.

[tl_ke_racer]

here is my rs4 with the camero body on.

[tl_ke_racer]

and one with the body off.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
I got my rs4 3 broken in and painted my camero body its awesome, i havent gassed it that much but its got good bottom end power, i would agree with u that the tc3 is a better car but i think the rs4 3 is a better beginner and basher car, this si my first nitro touring car and it was very easy to get it tuned perfect.

i agree completly its a great beginer car. :cool: nice paint job btw.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry


Applause for Kronic.........

this man gets it...and HPI does not....the faster you make a HPI,the worse it handles...

the faster you make the Tc3,the better it handles.....

HPI might be finally learning their lesson..they've been dropping the prices of their cars radically(to the hobby shops and disrtibutors).......I guess when the competition has passed you by,you have too.....

I heard losi is working on a gas car...and I think Xray is also....

having a reputation for making cars that need hop ups,and still are not raceworthy will be HPI's undoing....

HPI has always said that they were geared toward the novice..the problem is,teh TC3 rtr is a better car,just about teh same price.....and has natl champion in its title.....

do you have any idea what a rivalry losi and associated would have when losi comes out with their nitro car. if the electric war they been raging the past few years comes over to nitro i cant imagine what its gonna be like..... HPI is out of the picture if xray gets involved... their electric are insane and if thats a preview of their nitro. for hpi's sake i hope they got something up their sleeve. im tired of hearing about the next mini, the next micro, their problem is they have their R&D looking for the next fad to make money off of, instead of putting their "race cars" through gruling testing like the tc3 was put trough. just because you make a whole line of cars doesnt make you great.......

here is the pic on what the wolfpack radicals 2 speed looks like assembled

on a side note: harry, ive gone to the darkside i got it sooner than expected:cool: :D http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/166846_5837453553224321753_vl.jpg

[tl_ke_racer]

Thnx.. its my first time ever painting a car.

[KronicRacer]

her is a pic of the hpi 2 speed and the wolfpack radicals 2 speed.......http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/166902_4383463483538891583_vl.jpg

[sebtarta]

:cool: :D :cool:
NIIIIICCEEEE Where did you get the Wolfpack??
Good luck, :)

[djm914-6]

I'm about 3/4 through building my new SS kit and saw a potential problem...

I mounted the wheels and tires for the heck of it an find that the front a-arms (actually the e-clip that holds it all together) rubs on the inside of the wheels. It looks like the wheels are too small for the a-arms or they are not centered properly.

Any ideas?

Can anyone post a pic looking at the wheel/ a-arm area?

TIA,
Dave

[tl_ke_racer]

go over the manual again and if yuh cant figure it out call hpi, they will help you.

[DOHCrazy]

Got my RTR 3 bout a week ago. Broke it in and I love it! this is my first nitro and after being scared to go from electric to nitro, im VERY happy i made the switch!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
I just got a nitro rs4 3 rtr today i havetn got to run it since i got home at night it looks like a really sweet car im gonan paint my body tomorrow and then break in my car, any known weak points in the car i should know about or is it as good as people say it is? my freind ssaw it and he is jealous.

one of the weaknesses is that when you go at higher speeds it gets sloppy.

sebtarta

read page 18 most of the info is listed there....

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by djm914-6
I'm about 3/4 through building my new SS kit and saw a potential problem...

I mounted the wheels and tires for the heck of it an find that the front a-arms (actually the e-clip that holds it all together) rubs on the inside of the wheels. It looks like the wheels are too small for the a-arms or they are not centered properly.

Any ideas?

Can anyone post a pic looking at the wheel/ a-arm area?

TIA,
Dave

i have no idea on this one. cuz this is straight from the factory like this. rtr and type ss kits have this problem where in the front and only the front the clip cuts a little groove into the rim where the eclip is it more annoying than anything else.

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/167097_6031795337842071151_vl.jpg http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/167098_3088493377322750591_vl.jpg

[djm914-6]

Thanks KronicRacer, that's what I thought.

I've gone over the instruction several times and couldn't find a mistake. I notice they include two sets of front... uprights(??) marked L1, L2, R1, R2. Instructions say to use those marked with 2 though I can't see a difference. While I've been out of the hobby for many years, I'm no newbie when it comes to building kits. I've been building kits for 18 years and never seen somthing with so little (no) clearance.

Looks like I'll place a call to HPI next week to get their responce.

Thanks,
Dave

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by djm914-6
Thanks KronicRacer, that's what I thought.

I've gone over the instruction several times and couldn't find a mistake. I notice they include two sets of front... uprights(??) marked L1, L2, R1, R2. Instructions say to use those marked with 2 though I can't see a difference. While I've been out of the hobby for many years, I'm no newbie when it comes to building kits. I've been building kits for 18 years and never seen somthing with so little (no) clearance.

Looks like I'll place a call to HPI next week to get their responce.

Thanks,
Dave


L10, L8, R10, R8 *(Front castor hub).... those have different degrees on them... they will affect the suspension if you mismatch them.. your best bet is to use the r10 and L10 on the parking lot... and the R8 and L8 on the track(prepared surfaces)

[tl_ke_racer]

what should i upgrade first on my rs4, man this thing is fun start in 1 pull!!!:D

[DOHCrazy]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
what should i upgrade first on my rs4, man this thing is fun start in 1 pull!!!:D

I need an answer to this question too.... Right now im looking to get a fiber disk brake and an HPI air filter. What header and pipe should i get and if i upgrade to the SS engine later on will the pipe and header still fit it? I dont race i jsut drive with a friend in parking lots. Whne i get the money a 2 speed will be on its way too! Should i upgrade anything on the .15FE or jsut save and get the SS engine? Any little "tricks of the trade" i can do that cost little or no money?

Thanx for all the help guys!

[PhillyNitro]

Just save for another engine.

[PhillyNitro]

Just save for another engine.

[tl_ke_racer]

i wanan use teh .15 fe since im new and its a easy motor to use, i was thinkin of buyin a better heat head but which one will fit on my .15fe motor can someone send me a link to one at towers that will fit my motor.

[DOHCrazy]

ok im going to my LHS and am going to order these things probly this coming week(these prices are on the HPI website, Probly different at my LHS):

72175 1 High Performance Air Cleaner 16.00

86037 1 Aluminum Exhaust Header (Black/RTR 3/Nitro 3) 14.00

86038 1 2 Speed Transmission (RTR 3) 70.00

A844 1 Fiber Brake Disc 14.00

A885 1 Nitro Racing Clutch 15.00

This car is not being raced compititionaly jsut with a few other nitro friends. I wanna have a good car that is fast. Im gona upgrade the motor but that comes later! What pipe should i get? is there anything else i should change? any little stuff i missed? This is my first Nitro car and i love it and take very good care of it. Also like i said before, Is there any "tircks of the trade" that i can do for little/no money?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer, DOHCrazy


everything else is a trade secret, if i told you id have to kill you..:D

so heres some advice;)

save your money heat sinks are just for looks. there are some that are not but its just mainly looks. you shouldnt have to worry about the heat sink head. if you think this one is bad you should see the first one from a year ago..it was fuugly..:D ;) . get an air filter first preferrably a motorsaver air filter. those filterd rule.... next a paris racing or ofna pipe with hpi racing exhaust header. when your done with the fe you can transfer to something else. myself and other ppl in the forum will tell you there are better motors out there than hpi's(but if you must have a hpi motor go for the 15ss or the 12r ss). try to look for the two speeds else where (70$ is too much) i can get a super chassie for that price. i would also recommend looking at www.wolfpackradicals.com 2 speed $55$ it shifts smoother than the hpi. another good thing to get are foam tires they have excellent traction...you cant get anywhere with out it(traction). another thing with the rubber tires stay away from non belted tires with out belts the tires balloon when you accelerate.

reason for the tubing is.... down the road ocasionally you'll encounter bubble in the short fuel line ..... when a bubble reaches and enters a carb it imediately leans it out for that couple of strokes....when this happens this is not what you want reason being that it has been known to throw a motor to s**t(depending on how lean it is). which is kinda why you gotta learn when the car is gonna run out of fuel to avoid leaning it out too much...

DOHCrazy(directed to your question) when you eventually switch to the 12rss or 15ss you can transfer the header and pipe to the new motors... just remember that there are better motors out there other than hpi's(they also can use your exhaoust equipment)

[DOHCrazy]

Sweet, Thanx alot KroniRacer! I understand about the secrets...i guess ill have to find out the hard way or somethin! Besides the 2 speed i can find most of the stuff at TowerHobbies right?

These are the Ofna pipes i found http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=Ofna+pipe&FVPROFIL=++

http://parisracing.com/pipes2.htm which one of these will be best for my car?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=7 ??? i heard somewhere these were good.

i like this guys pipe... on page 5... i dont kwo if its good or not though!