HPI RS4 3/RS4 3 SS forum

[tmaxx_1]

anyone know a good website for the rs4 3.
with pictures of opition parts and upgrades, how about carbon fiber parts?

[rickedstyles]

just finished break in on mine also and cant tell if its shifting does anyone know if the pitch of the motor changes when shifting!!!
or do i need to adjust 2 speed!!

[Crazy Racer]

the hpi 2 speeds make a distinctive sound when they hit 2nd. It is noticeable and is very sudden. The arm in the 2 speed opens up and hits the pin when the rpms are high enough...


btw what kind of foams is everyone running here?

[tl_ke_racer]

fixed my motor its runs real good now, the funniest thing happend today my motor kept getting really hot over and over again and i had to keep shutting it off and it seemed slower, i just checked right now and my brakes were dragging big time soem how my brake settings came undone kinda wierd.:rolleyes:

[shoe]

this is a stupid question but is it possible to buy some stuff to convert the ss into a 235mm car to handle better?

[oN_dUbZ]

Hey guys. I just bought my first ever R/C hobby car. I picked the HPI Nitro RS4 3 RTR with the new Lamborghini body and i'm extremely happy how easy-to-use this car is and how good it is even for a firs-time buyer myself. I also bought a HPI Nirto Starter Kit and a whole set of tools from drivers to scissors and a new airbrush and paint sets. After getting all that I have about $100-$125 left in money(I'M Surprised!!) so I was wondering what kind of hop-ups should I buy now. Engines, Radios, Chassis, or any other suggestions you guys have please reply, i can use all the help. Try to put up links if you can or where I can get the parts.

[japriljr]

I have a simple tip to make your brakes work better. Just put 2-3 small sip ties around the tubing and you will have brakes that actually stop the car (this is mainlly for high grip surfaces)

[japriljr]

I think the problem with the 2 speed shifting sound, is that the gear ratios are so close together. I'm going to swap out some gears to see if I can get more top end. I get eaten up on the straight of my local track by everyone, including a T-max with foam tires:eek:

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
RS4 3 SS engine on V-1S
I am thinking to swap the HPI SS engine to my new V-1S. Since, the V-1S comes w/ a .15 Kyosho engine w/ .56 hp. Do I need any modification for the SS engine. Thanks,

Help Plzzz, anybody

:confused:

there should be no mods needed other than the engine mounts, and and possibly cutting the crank(doubtfull)....

NOTE: when putting threadlock on the 2 speed make sure it the blue stuff. also dont over do it. if overdone it will make the 2speed stay stuck in first gear. apply a small amount to the screw on the thread itself while its on the allen wrench. then install.

shoe

spining out huh? the weakness of the SS: high speed. (esp on stock suspension) also you can hear the gear engage: you hear a ping like sound and the tone drops.

tmaxx_1 and oN_dUbZ
www.hpiracing.com (aluminum shocks/chassis)
www.meganitro.com (Carbongraphite parts galore clutches brakes (and the oh so pretty aluminum;) ))
www.wolfpackradicals.com (transmissions and motor mounts)
teamlunsford and rpm are others too look at(turnbuckles)
www.towerhobbies.com (motors) (shock springs)
www.ebay.com (spare parts)EVERYTHING
www.rcboyz.com (spare parts)
www.acehardwarehobbies.com (tires/motors)
this is prolly the website to referance there is always someone that knows something someone else doesnt. if you guys have any more questions dont be afraid to ask

Crazy Racer
elligi foams ....

tl_ke_racer

threadlock the brake hub screws.

[TC3_racer_14]

which nitro vehicle should I get, the nitro RS4 RTR 3 or the nitro TC3 RTR. I dont have a lot of money, and I know the RS4 RTR 3 is cheaper to buy. but should I save my pennies and buy the TC3 or shoud I get the RTR 3? It will be my first nitro. although I know quite a lot about how a rc car performs, I just don't know about nitro engines and linkages and stuff. I will probably get a biast opinion here so thats why I'm posting in both forums. Thanks for any help!

[DOHCrazy]

If ur gona race compitionally then get the TC3, yes its more expensive but it has some features the RS4 doesnt. I kinda wish i woulda saved and got the TC3, but hey, dont get me wrong, I love my RS4!!!!!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TC3_racer_14
which nitro vehicle should I get, the nitro RS4 RTR 3 or the nitro TC3 RTR. I dont have a lot of money, and I know the RS4 RTR 3 is cheaper to buy. but should I save my pennies and buy the TC3 or shoud I get the RTR 3? It will be my first nitro. although I know quite a lot about how a rc car performs, I just don't know about nitro engines and linkages and stuff. I will probably get a biast opinion here so thats why I'm posting in both forums. Thanks for any help!

good things are worth the wait.........
now that associated has an rtr i say handsdown go for the tc3...i can say the associated has got an impressive car on their hands and its fast as (choice of word). i have the benefit of having an associated(just finished building the factory team kit) and an hpi(3 of them all rs4 3's)... there is less to upgrade on the associated. the hpi can quickly become a money pit. anywhoo with the associated all you need is the threaded aluminum shocks and the two speed and you have a race car. HPI on the other hand :rolleyes: you wont b dissapointed w/the tc3 rtr.:)

NOTE: there are 5 shafts with a tc3. hpi has 6.....the more shafts there are the more power is lost through the drivetrain/s. just an observation

[hpi#1]

I'm tired of people bashing the RTR 3 and saying to people get thr NTC3 RTR. Don't listen to them. The RTR 3 is a great car. The only better about the ntc3 RTR is it has turnbuckles, the header is a bit better and the pipe is aluminum. By the time you get these things for your rtr 3 you would have spent around the same price that the NTC3 RTR costs so who cares if i come with a bit of better stuff, it will end up costig the same thing anyways. The RTR 3 is great, it's reliable and durable and lots of hop ups availble. and to the people tha say the NTC 3 handles better, with a quick shortengin of the front diff spring, the RTR 3 handles/steers 30% better.

So people with the RTR 3 don't regret you bought it or feel bad, the RTR 3 is great.

[oN_dUbZ]

I am like the newest Newbie at R/C stufff and I just got my RTR 3 yesterday and I can say that this car RoXoRz and after i get my aftermarket option parts I think I will run great. Totally agree with ur post hpi#1. RTR 3!!!!!!!!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpi#1
I'm tired of people bashing the RTR 3 and saying to people get thr NTC3 RTR. Don't listen to them. The RTR 3 is a great car. The only better about the ntc3 RTR is it has turnbuckles, the header is a bit better and the pipe is aluminum. By the time you get these things for your rtr 3 you would have spent around the same price that the NTC3 RTR costs so who cares if i come with a bit of better stuff, it will end up costig the same thing anyways. The RTR 3 is great, it's reliable and durable and lots of hop ups availble. and to the people tha say the NTC 3 handles better, with a quick shortengin of the front diff spring, the RTR 3 handles/steers 30% better.

So people with the RTR 3 don't regret you bought it or feel bad, the RTR 3 is great.

there is no regret when you take it to the parkinglot to race there.. take it to the track and it a whole other story..... the rs4 3 suspension is built around turnbuckles associateds is not. turnbuckles tend to slop at highspeed. associated has upper and lower control A arms read it CONTROL A ARMS(thats what they have on real race cars). rs4 3 is great in its domain; the parkinglot.. associated on the other hand dominates both intstead of just one.(unless you have a bank account in geneva and r&d in your bed room that can crank out the mythical associated killer rs4 4 typeR;)) build a tc3 and lets see what you have to say about this whole little debate. also when was the last time an hpi rs4 3 manhandeled a serpent? associated handed serpent its ass at the world finals.

BTW the ntc3 has 6(including servos) turnbuckles on their whole car hpi has over 8(including servos)

[hpi#1]

zero slop in my turnbuckles that i bought. anyways i still think the RTR 3 is great and no less better than a ntc3 rtr. my friend has a ntc3 rtr and i have rtr 3 so we'll have to see. o ya and dont forget what i sed about shortening the diff spring. made a huge difference in my car.

[DOHCrazy]

how does shortining the diff springs help? how do u do it?

[hpi#1]

go to the nitro foum and type handling tips, you'll get a thread i mad on it. take off the diff from the chassis. open the diff casing. you'll find the diff. there will be 4 screws. loosen them and take aprt the diff. then there will be a gear and 2 geasr with a pin thorugh witch ar emeshed together. pull out the pin out and use some needle nose pliars to snip 1 or 2 coild of the spring then reassmble. for help check the manual. its actually really easy.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
I am like the newest Newbie at R/C stufff and I just got my RTR 3 yesterday and I can say that this car RoXoRz and after i get my aftermarket option parts I think I will run great. Totally agree with ur post hpi#1. RTR 3!!!!!!!!

Thank you! enjoy your RTR 3 and don't listen to those guys that put down our cars.

[oN_dUbZ]

hey HPI#1...do u have a digicam....if u do..can u post some pics of ur car and like the upgrades u were talkin about like ur turnbuckle stuff and tires and all that. I'm really gettin into these cars now. I feel like getting another one already.

[tl_ke_racer]

well the tc3 is a better racer but for us beginners the rs4 rtr 3 is better then the tc3 because its so durable and easy to tune but if your more of a advanced racer teh tc3 would be a better choice.

[hpi#1]

y exacly do u need pics? i gave u links to the stuff i suggested. and for the other stuff just ask your LHS for them.

[hpi#1]

o ya stick to the nitro part of the forum. its alot better.

[oN_dUbZ]

ok thanx again hpi#1

[Esteban]

yo wazup everybody
I'm kinda new to r/c, but I anit no newb
anyway, I got a RS4 3 Type SS
its my first car( other than those Toys R Us toys) and I'm lovin it my only prob is finding placing to drive and ppl to drive with( they always checking it out though) only other prob is my LHS is kinda far away
anybody in tha STL( St. Louis) area? if so give me a holla an let me know where to go

[fastharry]

this is what I posted in another thread...


I'm not saying the HPI is bad....but there ARE better cars...

If the TC3 nitro(RTR or kit) have ANY downfall,it may be that they need a LITLLE more maintence.....the ball diffs(which I might add are a 70 DOLLAR option for HPI cars,and that's WITHOUT carbide balls,std in the tc3).......

BUT,I've found most people who start out as newbie love the hobby,and learn to rebuilfd a maintain within a month......(In fact,Its harder to replace the JUNK diff gears in a SS, and they will be shot in a gallon of gas)...In fact,withing a month,they are all looking to go faster,and can't figure out why teh car handles so badly..esp. when they go club racing and get beat by a PRO style car,that actually cost less tha their HOPPED up HPI....

..................Heres what I said....

your talking with a man that has 3 racer2's...an HPI RB powered SS.....a Serpent Impulse....2 nitro TC3's(RB turbos)....a Nova Reflex.....and just about everything else...



to answer fairly,I enjoy all my cars..the reflex runs well....turnns really tight...alot of on power steering...but,if your gonna buya belt car,NOTHING has the quality of a Serpent....the car,while heavy,is built like a tank..and handles like it....very stable if set up correctly.....realy needs a HUDY system to do it right,can be manhandled...and never seems to lose composure..agin,if set up correctly......

Now,for the real loves of my collection..yes,the tc3 needs some loctite on teh towers...and a roll pin so teh tank doesn't squash teh tank on side impact....and maybe a little more maintence than the impulse......BUT....



this has to be the best balanced car I've ever driven.....If driven correctly,it just GLIDES through corners.....same apex in,same out.....it is easy to set up,the shaft drive allows so much acceleration,it's just a blast to drive,,,,VERY easy to maintain(everything pulls up,no apart like a belt car)....the FASTER you drive it,the better it gets is teh best way to put it....I was literally going flat out through chicanes...the car just goes.....

Downsides?......the shaft drive coasts really well..theres no belt drag......so when you lift,you hAVE to hit your braking point..otherwise,you overshoot the corner,and the car goes wide...it has made me a better driver....


also,this car, UNLIKE an HPI ANYTHING,needs NOTHING to be race ready.....I put several hundred into my SS,in hope against hope,HPI had designed a halfway decent car.....I was wrong....the faster you make an SS,the worse it gets....

its not even close to my other cars......the only good thing is HPI finally admitting their cars are NOT racing cars....just parking lot bashing cars.....what they don't get is that a basic racing design is better than basic bashing desing..thats why the RTR tc3 nitro got such great reviews.......


its easier to bash a race car than race a bash car..remember that the next time you buy an option for your HPI...

[PhillyNitro]

Very Nicely put.

[DOHCrazy]

I kinda wish i woulda been a member of this forum for longer before i bought my RS4.... IMHO i would have bought the TC3, BUT i have the RS4 so i guess ill have to make the best of it... cause im guessing these dont have much resale value!

[sook]

If more people understood the concept Harry, there would be more money saved. Hpi makes a ton of money of Bashers.

DOHC,
It is never worth more than what you put into it and you will never get back what you put into the RS4. Well, unless you found a real sucker, if so.....put an add in for me.:D

[djm914-6]

Since only one person responded to my pondery of the front wheels rubbing in the h-arm pin and e-clip, can I assume that no one else has this problem?

I wrote an email to HPI, but haven't heard back yet. I was looking for some additional information on the problem.

Next issue: (I know this is open for flaming, but...) It seams that a majority of the posters here only bash the RS4 cars. By bash I mean talk down about them. If they are such crappy cars, them why post about them? I can see why HPI took down it's original forum as there are too many rats on these forums. A technical question is lost in the mud way too fast. I think that the point has been made that the RS4 isn't as good of a race car as the likes of the TC3. I also believe the drive plays a big role in the outcome of a race... more so than the car itself. I have seen it in full sized races I've attended and also in scale races. Enough is enough!

That said, can SOMEONE else back up the problem I'm having.

Thank you for your help and allowing me my small rant.

Dave

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by djm914-6
Since only one person responded to my pondery of the front wheels rubbing in the h-arm pin and e-clip, can I assume that no one else has this problem?

I wrote an email to HPI, but haven't heard back yet. I was looking for some additional information on the problem.

Next issue: (I know this is open for flaming, but...) It seams that a majority of the posters here only bash the RS4 cars. By bash I mean talk down about them. If they are such crappy cars, them why post about them? I can see why HPI took down it's original forum as there are too many rats on these forums. A technical question is lost in the mud way too fast. I think that the point has been made that the RS4 isn't as good of a race car as the likes of the TC3. I also believe the drive plays a big role in the outcome of a race... more so than the car itself. I have seen it in full sized races I've attended and also in scale races. Enough is enough!

That said, can SOMEONE else back up the problem I'm having.

Thank you for your help and allowing me my small rant.

Dave

granted, everyones opinon is their and there are also many points of veiw and different levels of experince. i think this HPI vs Associated ish has gotten to a point to where it should be dropped for everyones sake....

that being said back to the technical stuff 2 solutions one pick up a set of proline vrage with gumby rims for some reason it doesnt make that little groove there is more clearence. next option is to put small spacers or washers on the other end of the e clip hinge pin rod. there is another solution but im going to have to work on it and it also includes the washers....

[djm914-6]

Actually, I found that turning the pin around so that it enters the h-arm from the front gives more clearance, but it looks like it'll still rub. Granted I haven't driven the car yet, so all I can tell is from sitting on my bench. There is too much snow around here now and I still haven't desided on a radio yet.

About my rant, it just seams that whenever anyone askes a question, someone says how poor these cars handle and how much better the TC3 is. So be it; the TC3 handles better. Done. Over. BTDT. Why can't people just answer the question at hand. Of course, the same can be said for the many who ask "which car should I buy?" If they spend more than five minutes reading some posts, their question would be answered.

Thanks again.

[fastharry]

if it makes you feel better,I ckecked every one of my HPI's..including my ss...they alll hit the hingepin,and teh SS hits the corner of the arm also.......I've been racing HPI from 1997 till this summer....(I gave up after my HPI SS din''t come close to the tc3)

the arms or E clips all rubbed..on every one...I would'nt worry about it.....

[tl_ke_racer]

i dont regret getting my rs4 at all its a good car, next year i will get a tc3 but for right now since im just beginning the rs4 3 is a better car for me.

[hpi#1]

if how much better the ntc3 handles compared to nitro 3 is what makes the car so much better and makes people like it more, which it probably duz thats why people prefer it so mcuh over the nitro 3. then i'm really happy that i own a RTR 3. BECAUSE since I shortened the front diff spring the car handles 30% better. with that extra 30%, i think the cars will actually become equal at handling. plus i love my RTR 3. it's strong, reliable and just great in every way. so when people say i gave up my nitro 3 over the ntc3 becasue of how it flew through the track so much better, ur nitro 3 would have too if it wern't for that extremly tight front diff spring that's making everyone hate it adn giving the car a bad name.

Oh ya, the nitro 3 now has a one-way differential available for even better handling.

RTR 3 (NITRO 3) ALL THE WAY

[tl_ke_racer]

i looked in the in the manual the spring goes around a little bar in the diff right?


i race my ar ona really low grip surface its a parking lot with lots of sand on it, i adjusted my car to low grip surfaces liek in the manual i moved the shocks to the inner hole and it doesnt spin out anymore i didnt even mess with the diff, my car does turns really tightly at full speed now so i guess cutting that spring would make it handle really good.


I got a question is that 1 way diff at tower hobbies and is it expensive.

[C0NTENDER]

I think it's totally unfair to compare the two. Yeah you can compare the rtr to the rtr, but it is very unfair to compare the rtr3 to the NTC3 kit version. Both cars are made for different purposes with different targets.

[team_luigis]

hpi has belts and the ntc3 has a shaft
not the same thing

[tl_ke_racer]

this forum is about the nitro rs4 3 its shaft driven.

[team_luigis]

sorry..
thanks for having telling me;)

[TC3_racer_14]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
I think it's totally unfair to compare the two. Yeah you can compare the rtr to the rtr, but it is very unfair to compare the rtr3 to the NTC3 kit version. Both cars are made for different purposes with different targets. we ARE comparing rtr to rtr.

[hpi#1]

if i didnt mention RTR to RTR i ment so or SS to NTC3 is what i also ment... obviously.. sorry

maybe ill try that low grip setup. really sandy isn't the place for a nitro r/c

for the one-way diff check hpiracing.com annd the new stuff area. if your not a serious racer u shouldn't get the one way diff

[tl_ke_racer]

its not sandy, its hard to explain its all concrete but theri is a little gravel ontop.

[tl_ke_racer]

i wont get eh one wya diff then i just bash in a parking lot and just mess around.

[KronicRacer]

(shaking head in disbelief) i cant believe you guys a still bickering about this mess. (shaking head again)

[japriljr]

Here is my two cents on comparing this car with others. Has anyone autocrossed or raced a real car? Which is better, a Corvette or a Subaru? A Porsche or a Subaru? My point is I have beat up on a few Corvettes, Porsches, MR2's, Miata's, and many others in my Subaru. If you look at just the cars the Subaru is at the bottom of the list as far a suspension and overall setup. Its the driver, not the car! If you like another car better, if you think HPI's are inferior, go to another forum! Maybe improving on an "inferior" car and beating the TC3's, Mugen's, Trinity's is part of the fun. After all, anyone with enough money can buy a "better" car, but it doesn't mean they can drive it.

[tmaxx_1]

hi, i was wondering what it does for the handling if you cut the front spring? why does it help? also i saw a option set of springs for the front diff. from hpi, anyone tried this?

[djm914-6]

japriljr,
That was my point about the driver making more difference than the car. I also wouldn't put the Scoobie at the bottom of the list at full sized AXs. I would say it places 4th. 1st is the S2000, 2nd is my car, a 914/6, 3rd is the Miata. The WRX is one fast little car and with the right driver could be a potent weapon. Vettes and most Porsches are not AX kings. At one event I attended a few years ago, a guy showed up with a 600+ HP 911 turbo. He finished about last due to not being able to put the power down in a controled fashion. Now, he also had an illegal street race with a 348 Ferrari and completely fried that over priced Fiat.
I would bet that on the right track and with the right drivers, a stock RS4 could take a TC3.

[hpi#1]

go to the nitro fourm and type in Nitro 3 handling tip. i explained it there. shortening the spring would just be like buying the diff spring kit and putting the softer spring in. cutting of 2 coils just saves u some money.

[rico750sxi]

I just got my rtr3 (first nitro) and I've finished the static break in. The problem is now that I'm driving it around a bit it seems like the clutch is slipping or something. It takes a lot of throttle to get it moving like alnost half throttle. I'm running it very rich right now, is that why? It doesn't seem like it's bogging down, the engine revs up okay(considering how rich it is). Is this normal or do the clutch and bell have to "mate" for a bit? Or is this just because it is so rich right now. I guess I should continue breaking it in and see if it gets better. Any input guys?

Thanks in advance.

[hpi#1]

exact same thing happened to my nitro 3 when i got it. dont worry, once u run it for a little the cltuch return springs will losse some of thei tension and the cltuch will engage normally. once ur cltuch wears out get a HPI racing Clutch, they're mucth better.

[fastharry]

take the engine out,take off the clutchbell,and clean the oil on the inside of the clutchbell with motor spray..HPI usuallt puts to much oil on the bearing,it splatters on the clutch bell,causing it to slip..

[rico750sxi]

hpi#1 thanks for the response. Of course 16" of snow just fell so I'm going to have to wait a while to really run it. My basement doesn't work so well!!!

[japriljr]

Once you start to lean it out it will have no problems. I resently installed the racing clutch and it make a nice improvement!

[tl_ke_racer]

make sure your brake isnt dragging, it could be thats its rich when u run it real rich during th e break in the thing has no torq or anything at all i was just givving it liek 1/4 throttle if that.

[tl_ke_racer]

yeha your right about the right driver could win my dads triumph TR6 beat a dodge viper in racing and a dodge viper should be able to kill it, but the tr6 handles unbeleivably.

[hpi#1]

its not ur engine being to rich, it's probably not oil splatering, hpi uses needle bearings. just give it some time and you're clutch will engage perfectly fine.

i got a sorta freak snow fall in my city. where u live?

[hpi#1]

does anybody have some pics of their nice Nitro 3?

[rickedstyles]

hey shoe and captevo mine wasnt shifting either i verified this by tightening spring all the way and there was no change in top speed...i pulled 2 speed apart and noticed the black arm was very tight in the aluminum housing even without spring and set screw i worked it in and out till it felt right then reassembled havent got a chance to test but im sure that was the problem (i hope)

[rickedstyles]

has anybody tried putting a trx 2.5 engine in their rs4 3? what would be needed to do it? i bet the car would scream with that motor

[tl_ke_racer]

ok guys i got a question im gonna upgrade my rs4 3 i already put a battery pack a charger in my cart, thats about 30 bux, i got liek 80 bux what elese should i get to upgrade my car with send em some links.

[hpi#1]

the t-maxx engines are short shaft so it wouldnt work. also their are alot more more powerful engine then that engine.

[hpi#1]

turnbuckles, and a 2 speed and if u still got a little money left when u buy ur 2 speed get the RED shorter pinion gears for some more accelration. dont forget u need money for gas evry once in a while.

these are the best hop ups for 80 bucks. I'm asuming 80 bucks american

[tl_ke_racer]

i was gonan get the hpi header instead of that joke of a manifold and put a onfa pipe on or somthing but a 2 speed would be better? if i get a 2 speed will i need to buy locktite for anything?

[fastharry]

heres mine

[tl_ke_racer]

thisis what i can afford either my recharable batt pack with charger and 2 glow plugs and a new body and turnbuckle set , or i can buy 2 glow plugs with a 2 speed transmission, what should i buy the first group or the 2 speed.

[fastharry]

here

[fastharry]

one RB Rear exhaust turbo SS..What do you think?

[fastharry]

think I like HPI?...and in case you don't notice..those are my TC3 nitros on the left .......jus so you know I really do own these cars....and that I'm not trying to kill you guys with HPI''s......but just trying to give honest perspective...

[fastharry]

hers another

[team_luigis]

how is this car compared to a ntc3??

[KronicRacer]

heres my pics
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174070_7512842204305065025_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/166846_5837453553224321753_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174069_5229792510899405258_vl.jpg

im with harry on what he said.

[hpi#1]

with the stokc enigne the stock pipe and header should be ok. if your are goign to get a nice engine somtime soon i guess you should get a pipe and header. if not get the 2 speed and red pinion gears.

im gonna have to say this a million times the only reason the nitro 3 "handles so bad" compared to other cars, espcially the ntc3 is cuz the front diff spring is way too stiff. my friend has a ntc3 rtr and i somtime soon were goign to an indoor track so i'll give the feed back sometime soon as to the handling comparison with my shortened diff spring.

by the way nice car fastharry. i see you're still using the stock servo horns and servo saver. i guess i bought the slide carb. linkage set for no reason.

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys....ok..i just broke-in my RS4 3 RTR. I bought 2 O.S. glow plugs, the HPI 2-speed Transmission, the HPI Racing Air Cleaner/Filter, and the HPI Custom Sinkhead. I have about another $75-$100 left for more parts. What else would be good to get? I was thinking about the turnbuckles set, and the threaded aluminum shocks set. Are these ok to get?

Here is the Link:

http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/rtr3-op.htm

The bottom center and the bottom left are the two i'm talking about.


What else do you guys think I should get. Engines, Chassis, Any thing? I can really use the Tips?

Please put all and any links you can for the parts you consider. I'm having some real tough time finding parts.


THanks =)

[hpi#1]

honestly, not worth putting a new heatsink on the FE. if you havn't opened the package or have and can somhow get it back in with out looking like you opened it. return the head and use that money plus the $100 and get a new engine. then you'll be set. yes, get some turnbuckles. if you race get the thread shocks. o ya some other good stuff is the racing clutch adn maybe a fiber disk brake. u know u don't have to get the things they show on the site, there's alot of other good stuff u can hop up.

[hpi#1]

o ya, i forgot to mention a tuned pipe and header. *******

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
hey guys....ok..i just broke-in my RS4 3 RTR. I bought 2 O.S. glow plugs, the HPI 2-speed Transmission, the HPI Racing Air Cleaner/Filter, and the HPI Custom Sinkhead. I have about another $75-$100 left for more parts. What else would be good to get? I was thinking about the turnbuckles set, and the threaded aluminum shocks set. Are these ok to get?

Here is the Link:

http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/rtr3-op.htm

The bottom center and the bottom left are the two i'm talking about.


What else do you guys think I should get. Engines, Chassis, Any thing? I can really use the Tips?

Please put all and any links you can for the parts you consider. I'm having some real tough time finding parts.


THanks =)

i agree with hpi #1 send back the cooling head get the threaded shocks and turn buckles on the turnbuckels get the heavy duty rpm ballcaps and get the lunsford titanium rods... other stuff to look at is new servo for steering... racing clutch, new springs new chassis if you have the money

here are the links again:
www.hpiracing.com (aluminum shocks/chassis)
www.meganitro.com (Carbongraphite parts galore clutches brakes (and the oh so pretty aluminum ))
www.wolfpackradicals.com (transmissions and motor mounts)
teamlunsford and rpm are others too look at(turnbuckles)
www.towerhobbies.com (motors) (shock springs)
www.ebay.com (spare parts)EVERYTHING
www.rcboyz.com (spare parts)
www.acehardwarehobbies.com (tires/motors)

[oN_dUbZ]

aight thanx guys....i cancelled my order on the sinkhead and the other stuff will ship in a couple days. The only problem is that I can't find stuff...I mean I have looked at O.S. Engines and stuff from Wolfpack Radicals and it's good and I don't know much about radio equipment. I know what the radio and transmitter is. I'm guessing that the servo is what you put inside of the radio?? and what are crystals
??

[rico750sxi]

hpi #1: I live in upstate NY near Albany. I t was our second big storm in a week, we got blistered on Christmas too. Thanks to everyone for the advice on my clutch. I hope to have a pic of the car up soon.

In everyone's opinion which is the better hop up to do first, a 2 speed or a pipe? I was thinking about the CVEC dual exhaust pipe(135Z or something like that). Also, is the wolfgang 2 spped better than the hpi and why?

Thanks

[tl_ke_racer]

ok guys im getting a racing air filter and a 2 speed, im gonna get teh hpi 2 speed should i get a different one or will thsi one be fine.

[rickedstyles]

how much top speed will be gained with switching to red gears? also can you just move 2nd gear to 23 (red) and leave first at 18 (purple)

[tl_ke_racer]

that 2 speed sounds complicated.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by hpi#1
with the stokc enigne the stock pipe and header should be ok. if your are goign to get a nice engine somtime soon i guess you should get a pipe and header. if not get the 2 speed and red pinion gears.

im gonna have to say this a million times the only reason the nitro 3 "handles so bad" compared to other cars, espcially the ntc3 is cuz the front diff spring is way too stiff. my friend has a ntc3 rtr and i somtime soon were goign to an indoor track so i'll give the feed back sometime soon as to the handling comparison with my shortened diff spring.

by the way nice car fastharry. i see you're still using the stock servo horns and servo saver. i guess i bought the slide carb. linkage set for no reason.




thanks for the compliments........

the best piece HPI had ever included with their kits is #85039.....the bad part is it's only available in teh SS kit(though I got Tower Hobbies to carry it)....it allows you to use a slide carb linkage in teh SS,RTR 3,MT nitro and super nitro rally.....It has a different top horn that allows slide carb installs...



and to all of you,let thsi be the final word...you see all those HPI s I have?.....AND the tc3's?........and I have Serpent Impulse, reflex.......and a SLEW of other cars......I don't care how many diff springs you change,rear springs,front springs,spring is in the air,it's spring time in Cleveland,...WHATEVER.....The tc3 is a better handling,better balanced,MORE STABLE,better engineered car....period,end of story....ANYONE who races cars will tell you that.....HPI will tell you that......


BUT,and I do mean BUT!!!!!!!....ANY car requires tuning,proper costruction,proper set-up,everything from proper body mountiing tp proper tire selection for any given racetrack.....AND a DRIVER who can get it around the track....SMOOTHLY,Quickly,and without hitting anything.....


that being said...the HPI,with some money in it,is capable of catching ANY car on a club style track.....you just have to be better at all aspects of racing than the next guy driving a pro car....cause he does have an advantage....but it can be done(and I've done it)...

all I was trying to convey was that if you drive the tc3,it feels better,runs smoother,and is quicker than an HPI..but it was DESIGNED for that purpose(and designed to beat all other cars also)......If you ever get a chance to drive one that is properly set up,you'll be amazed....

but if you enjoy your HPI's,stay with it.......just don't go overboard with spending money like I did.....

If you want the car and want to have fun parking lot racing(and your freinds have the same car),its a great car...bodies are great,teh cars look great,they have a great website(even though they S-U-C-K for taking down teh forum,though it ius good not to have to listen to HPI Staffs condescending BS about how raceworthy their cars are)

[sebtarta]

Ok how is everyone doing today?! :D HAPPY NEW YEAR :D
I haven't being reading the post lately as I have been traveling since xmas, but here are a few replies.

tl_ke_racer-that 2 speed sounds complicated.

In terms for the 2-speed get the wolfpack, its the same prioce as the HPI, but its better. It uses the shoe technology in order to engage, like TC3's, Reflex, Impulse, etc. This helps the transmission as it engages smoothly. The other one uses the toungue 2-speed and they are ok. I wold personaly go with the wolfpack, which is what I am getting in a few weeks, upgrading the 2-speed in my SS. :D


kedstyles-how much top speed will be gained with switching to red gears? also can you just move 2nd gear to 23 (red) and leave first at 18 (purple)

You can gain top speed by making the following. Changing the spur gear for a smaller one, and having the pinion increase in the same amount of teeth you drop in the spur. I dont know if this car you are able to change gear and still have perfect gear mesh. I am able to do this with my Reflex, I LOVE IT :D!
So for the stock SS having the following gears: 18T-47T front and 22t-43T rear gives a totoal of 65T. So if you change gears make sure that the final # of teeth are the same in order to prevent complication later for gear mesh and all of that....


rico750sxi-In everyone's opinion which is the better hop up to do first, a 2 speed or a pipe? I was thinking about the CVEC dual exhaust pipe(135Z or something like that). Also, is the wolfgang 2 spped better than the hpi and why?

The 2 speed I mentioned above saying that the wolfpack is better, look back to see the pics that KronicRacer posted.
In terms of the tune-pipe I bought this one, and I love it.
THS Racing Products Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=0)


Hope this helps to all,
Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
aight thanx guys....i cancelled my order on the sinkhead and the other stuff will ship in a couple days. The only problem is that I can't find stuff...I mean I have looked at O.S. Engines and stuff from Wolfpack Radicals and it's good and I don't know much about radio equipment. I know what the radio and transmitter is. I'm guessing that the servo is what you put inside of the radio?? and what are crystals
??


Ok I forgot to answer yours too, :p
The servo is what you use in order to be able to steer the car from left to right. This servo is usually called steering servo. Then you have the throttle/brak servo which is the one you use for throttle and braking of the car. Generally the steering servo is uprgaded (IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK SERVOS) to a servo that is quicker in response and has more torque (force) to turn. This helps a lot in term for steering the car.

Then for crystals, these are the ones that give the frequency to your radio and the car. They look like the following:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/f/futl49.jpg

Each crystal has a different frequency, to prevent radio conflictions. When ever you run your car with other people make sure you dont have the same frequency.

Good luck, :)

[rcvette]

From all the research I have done the first gear of 17, 18, 19 are all the same diameter and can be changed without worrying about gear mesh. Also the second gear of 21, 22, 23 are all the same diameter and can be changed also. So if you are setup correctly you can mix and match any on of the first three with the second three. You can have a wide ratio or close ratio depending on the course you are running. If you change spur gears for a different number then you will have to rest the mesh. I have the original purple of 18,22 but have the other red and gold gears on the way.

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by rcvette
From all the research I have done the first gear of 17, 18, 19 are all the same diameter and can be changed without worrying about gear mesh. Also the second gear of 21, 22, 23 are all the same diameter and can be changed also. So if you are setup correctly you can mix and match any on of the first three with the second three. You can have a wide ratio or close ratio depending on the course you are running. If you change spur gears for a different number then you will have to rest the mesh. I have the original purple of 18,22 but have the other red and gold gears on the way.



AH nice, so then you can mix and match with the pinions, but need to keep the stock spurs , I believe...
'Cause with my reflex I can mix and match pinions and spurs......they all have the same diameter. That is what I love about it.
Good luck, :)

[rickedstyles]

how much difference will it make just adding a tooth to the pinion and leaving stock spur? is it worth it to move from 22 to 23?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Also, is the wolfgang 2 spped better than the hpi and why?

Thanks
yes the wolfpack is better heres why.....
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/166902_4383463483538891583_vl.jpg

the hpi is on the left and the wolf pack on the right. they look the same but.........

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174604_8747549834584877860_vl.jpg
this is what they look like when taken apart. not the difference on the shafts and the 2nd gear clutch housing. look at the little cluches themselves. totally different....

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174605_3822580503112896245_vl.jpg

this is the close up of the wolfpack then bell hosing is completly smooth on the inside so when the clutch (little black thing next to the copper colored part) engages it engages the the ENTIRE bell housing. its like the hpi racing clutch

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174603_8892938073486627444_vl.jpg

this is the hpi 2 speed clutch it has a little clip that springs out and latches onto a pin on the clutchbell......

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/174606_2755525443264085589_vl.jpg

this is what catches the little pin in the housing..... when this engages this is what makes the ping sound... pereferrable when it shift you will want a bigger surface area for the clutch to make contact with (like the racing clutch for the motor). the HPI unit doesnt offer that with its little clip pin combo. it also has a tendancy to get stuck if you put too much thread lock on it. trust me ive seen a few rs4 3's with powerful motors that have needed a complete differential rebuild due to a hard slap shift with the hpi 2 speed.

[hpi#1]

Stick with the HPI 2 speed. sounds compicated???? c'mon half the fun of this hobby is building things and putting them together, and having the sense of some sort of acomplishment.

I live in Toronto and we got hit sorta bad a couple a days ago and christmas wasn't to bad.

BEST HOP-UPS: (NOT from least to greatest or vice versa)

2 speed transmission-red pinion gears (around 15 mph more)

Turnbuckles (nitro 3)

any tuned pipe and header, i have a nova pipe and im getting the t-maxx blue header

racing clutch, there's quite a big difference especially if you have a powerful engine

if you plan on racing some threaded aluminum shocks.

maybe a lightwieght flywheel

if you got some more money get a new engine- novarossi cx 12 or RB c12

when i get all my parts for my car I will post some pics for a good idea of a car with good hop ups. hope fully soon.........

[tl_ke_racer]

i only buy things from towers my parents dont want me switchin and buyin stuff from different sites, i dont think they sell the wolf pack 2 speed so i guess i am gonna buy the hpi 2 speed./

[oN_dUbZ]

aight thanx guys....I have taken in all of the information and I have made a a list for the RS4-3 RTR hop-ups that I should get.

RS4-3 RTR:

2-speed Transmission
Threaded Pinion Gears(Red) (Why red?...how come not purp?)
Racing Clutch
Fiber Disc Brake
Light Flywheel
Tuned Pipe
Header
Turnbuckles
Threaded Aluminum Shocks(If planning to race)
Air Cleaner/Filter

Mega Options:

Engine
FM Radio and Servos

[Crazy Racer]

Fast harry:

nice collection you have got there.. What rear exhaust header do you use for your rs4 3? i am about to buy an RB rody tuned 5 port for it...

You are right about being able to make any car handle good with tuning. I have an old rs4 2 that i run when its not worth taking out the 705 or impulse(sold). It definitely holds its own on the track. Between a combination of different springs, diffs filled with 100000/50000 weight oil, foams, and susp. settings the car is dialed in for what it is. But in hardcore racing, it doesnt hold up to the really hopped up ntc3's, impulses, etc.

The ntc3 is an awesome car. I think that they were designed really good, but IMO it is not the best car out there. Very light and efficient drive system. It has a different feel than my 705 and impulse have. I personally like the impulse better than the ntc3. It is way more durable than the ntc3 and better suits me. I guess its just preference...

on your top picture, i see those are ellegi foams. What shore are you using? wide in back?

[DOHCrazy]

what exactly are "red" pinion gears?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Crazy Racer
Fast harry:

nice collection you have got there.. What rear exhaust header do you use for your rs4 3? i am about to buy an RB rody tuned 5 port for it...

You are right about being able to make any car handle good with tuning. I have an old rs4 2 that i run when its not worth taking out the 705 or impulse(sold). It definitely holds its own on the track. Between a combination of different springs, diffs filled with 100000/50000 weight oil, foams, and susp. settings the car is dialed in for what it is. But in hardcore racing, it doesnt hold up to the really hopped up ntc3's, impulses, etc.

The ntc3 is an awesome car. I think that they were designed really good, but IMO it is not the best car out there. Very light and efficient drive system. It has a different feel than my 705 and impulse have. I personally like the impulse better than the ntc3. It is way more durable than the ntc3 and better suits me. I guess its just preference...

on your top picture, i see those are ellegi foams. What shore are you using? wide in back?


I'm using the TC nitro header on mine....I drilled 2 small holes (where the spring goes) to reposition teh header...

as far as your comments on the tc3...I agree...I don't think the car is a durable as an Impulse(remember,I own one of those also)....

BUT,I love the way it drives...and even though it might need a little more maitenenace,It is way easier to work on than any belt car......and to honest,on our 100 x125 ft track,and its desighned REALLY fast,the tc3 ahev more tahn held their own reliablity wise...I've cracked one tank compared to many belt breaks on teh impulse's.....and I've taken direct hits from Serpents and come out clean.....

but again,my main atraction to the car is the easy set up,and the drivetrain.......

[hpi#1]

Let me explain why red. HPI makes three SETS of pinion geasr for the nitro 3 2 speed which are COLOUR coded. the yellow set have more teeth for more speed. the purple set (which comes with the 2 speed for speed/accelration and the red set thta has less teeth for more accleration. they colour coat them so u dont mix them up. i just prefer some more acceleration that why i sed get the red, espcially for a weak engine like the FE.

the 17T - 21T are the red
18 22 are the purple
19 23 are the yellow

http://www.hpiracing.com/newparts.htm scroll down to the pinion gears.

[oN_dUbZ]

thanx i think imma get them pinions too

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys...i wanted to buy this Tuned Pipe :

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBYF8&P=7

DO i need a new/upgraded header/manifold for this? and if I do which one do i get?

[tl_ke_racer]

yeah i was lookin at that pipe to but im gonan get that THS Racing pipe instead i think but if u get that cveci think u gotta buy the hpi header its liek 14 bucks i think.

[oN_dUbZ]

aight thanx man....hey what about the HPI Tuned Pipe and Header set? Isn't that pipe good?

[hpi#1]

you dont need a new header, but it would be a good idea to get one. dont get cvec. theres this thing inside that you can adjust for accleration/top end which is one more annoying thing thta might couase a problem. the hpi pipe form whta i here is bad. get a novarossi pipe. plug the orginal pressur nipple with J.B weld adn install your ouwn. its the best pipe out there

[tmaxx_1]

anyone know if there is a carbon fiber radio plate for the nitro 3?

[hpi#1]

no, but there is a woven graphite radio tray. check at towerhobbies. its made my HB

[tl_ke_racer]

isnt it the same pipe on the stock rtr rs4 3 only that it comes with a header?

[hpi#1]

no the better one is aluminum

[tl_ke_racer]

Isnt the Ths racing pipe with the header good its the one im gonna get when towers gets it in stock :mad:

[hpi#1]

beter pipe doesnt meen its good. THS pipe never herd any one who had it so i dont know. the best pipe is novarossi 51602

[oN_dUbZ]

hey HPI#1 can u give me a link for the novarossi pipes and a compatible tuned header. Also what other good pipes are there? What's wrong with the HPI Tuned Pipe? and is that CVEC "changable" thingy really bothering and bad?

[rico750sxi]

where do you get the pinions and spurs for the wolfpack? Are they the HPI ones?

[DOHCrazy]

HPI#1:

Everyone is intiltled to thier own opinion but how is the nova pipe the "BEST" pipe out there? Do u have It? Also, do u have the THS pipe AND the CVEC pipe? 'Cause that woudl be the only way u could tell which one is "BEST". I myself dont have any of them so i cant say which one is better, but i plan to order the THS pipe from tower when they get it back in.

[rickedstyles]

a lot of people on the hpi forum used to say the ths was the best but i dont have it personaly...also hpi #1 according to towers website the red pinions are the 19 and 23 maybe they are wrong? this means the red would give more top end right?

[tl_ke_racer]

the red gears give more low end power low end power cuz they are smaller gears.

[hpi#1]

[oN_dUbZ]

Hey Hpi#1...my bad about asking you everything about my car and option parts. Don't worry tho, the only option parts stuff you told me about and I bought was the 2-speed tranny and the turnbuckles set. Everything else I haven't bought or buying different parts.

[hpi#1]

to answer half the questions, just go to the link i made. to the guy that asked where can i see the novarossi pipe. www.novarossi.com but they don't sell them there. i dont think nova pipes are solde anywhere on the net. no wolfpack doesnt make them, there HPI. all you guys gotta to is click on the link i mad a while back when i first explained it anyways. the red pinion geasr are the shortest of the set. the shorter the gear the better accleration, but the less speed. i like the red cuz u get more accleration but still more speed then a single speed. and yes the ste was wrong. the red are 17-21 unless hpi is wrong which they are definetly not. good header would be the t-maxx blue tube header

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
Hey Hpi#1...my bad about asking you everything about my car and option parts. Don't worry tho, the only option parts stuff you told me about and I bought was the 2-speed tranny and the turnbuckles set. Everything else I haven't bought or buying different parts.

what were u saying my bad about?

[oN_dUbZ]

because i thought u were mad that our cars are going to be identical or whatever

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
where do you get the pinions and spurs for the wolfpack? Are they the HPI ones?

yes its the hpi spur gears. check out what i posted on page 24

[rickedstyles]

if you go to tower or hpi and COUNT the teeth on the RED pinions they are 19 and 23 im not trying make anyone mad just stating what i am seeing since hpi doesnt have individual pics of the gears with part numbers you must count the teeth is hpi wrong?
unless i am mistaken the red gears will improve top end also according to the gear chart at hpi you can leave first alone and change 2nd to 23 to only increase top end and leave bottom alone ...please correct me if im wrong!!

[rico750sxi]

So could I put the short(yellow) first gear and the long(red) 2nd gear so I could get good acceleration and good top end? Can I do it without changing the spurs?

[rickedstyles]

according to hpi's new forum and gear chart you can

[oN_dUbZ]

Hey again guys. This post (again for hop_ups) is to show you guys what i have and what u guys think I should add now to my car. Please...alll comments, suggestions, recommendations will be taken in.

oN_dUbZ's HPI NITRO RS4-3 RTR w/ Custom Toyota Supra Body:
(WILL post a pic as soon as I get a Digital Camera...Haha)

HPI 2-speed Transmission
HPI Racing Air Cleaner/Filter
HPI Turnbuckles Set
HPI Racing Clutch
HPI Fiber Disc Brake
HPI Light Flywheel
HPI Threaded Aluminum Shocks Set


On order/Thinking About Ordering:

HPI Threaded Pinion Gears (Which ones should I get? Red Gives Accel, and Yellow gives more top speed, or should I do a combination?

I'm having the hardest time picking and finding a stupid Tuned Pipe. Here is my list

Tuned Pipes:
THS Racing RTR-3 Aluminum Tuned Pipe
CVEC Dual Exhaust
O.S. Tuned Silencer
RB Concepts Tuned Polished Pipe ROAR
HPI Tuned Pipe
Novarossi 56102(I can't find this one online and my LHS doesn't carry them)

Headers:
HPI Aluminum Exhaust Header
T-MAXX header(I don't get what you mean hpi#1 about the "plugging" the whatever and then installing my own?)
Any other good headers? Suggestions?

Engines:
HPI Nitro .15 SS
O.S. .15 CV-RX (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb
Novarossi CX-12 (Again, I Can't find this online and my LHS doesn't carry it. I don't think my LHS has any Novarossi parts.)
Any others?


Miscellaneous:
Any chassis Upgrades??
Any Shocks, Springs, Spur Gears, or anything else I should upgrade?

ANYTHING you want to put in your "2 cents" in on just put them in.

Thanx to ALL in advance

[rico750sxi]

According to HPI's chart don't the yellow give better acceleration(higher gear ratio #) and red more top end(lower #)? Just like in a real car, 4.56 gears will out accelerate 3.42 gears all other things being equal. But the 3.42 will have a higher top speed.

[rickedstyles]

yes according to the chart by raising the # of teeth on the pinion you lower gear ratio giving more top speed...you can also think of it like a bicycle the front sprockets get bigger for more speed and rear decrease for more speed

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
because i thought u were mad that our cars are going to be identical or whatever \

Not at all.

[hpi#1]

i dont think you can do a combonation of both gears,, because they wont mesh right. if you like the stock pinion gears, stay with them. o about plugging. i ment the novarossi pipe cuz the pressure niple it comes with is ment for cars with exhaust mounted on the left not the right. so you could plug it with J.B weld and install your own. thats what im doing. hopefully my stuff will come in at my LHS. if it duz ill post some pics.

the hpi pipe from what i hear is bad. the .15 SS is only 0.7HP so u dont want that. check if your LHS sells the RB COncepts C12. its identical to the CX12.

boy, i wish i had those threaded aluminum shocks.

i'm not mad about our cars being the same.

[rico750sxi]

THIS IS FROM HPI's SITE:


The new gears are a racing style gear much like a Mugen or Serpent gear (Also the Proceed). The gears are based on one pitch circle diameter, and then the number teeth changes and the pressure angle changes while the P.C.D. stays the same.

The main benefit is that you don't need to adjust mesh to use different pinions, especially good for the RTR3 which can use any pinion (17,18,19, 21, 22, or 23) without needing engine mounts. When finding axle distance, you use 18 and 22 respectively with whatever spurs you want to check the match for.

17, 18, and 19 tooth gears will all use the same gear mesh setting (axle distance) as the 18 tooth since the P.C.D. is 18mm.

21, 22, and 23 tooth gears will all use the same gear mesh setting (axle distance) as the 22 tooth since the P.C.D. is 22mm.

Spur, Pinion, Axle Distance= ((S+P)*1mm)/2
47, 17 (18mm PCD), 32.5mm
47, 18, 32.5mm
47, 19 (18mm PCD), 32.5mm

43, 21 (22mm PCD), 32.5mm
43, 22, 32.5mm
43, 23 (22mm PCD), 32.5mm

45, 17 (18mm PCD), 31.5mm
45, 18, 31.5mm
45, 19 (18mm PCD), 31.5mm

41, 21 (22mm PCD), 31.5mm
41, 22, 31.5mm
41, 23 (22mm PCD), 31.5mm

So if you want to use a 6 tooth jump in the list above, go for it... Use a 45/17 with a 41/23... If you want a closer ratio, use a 47/19 with a 43/21. Since the size is based on the P.C.D., the mesh will be correct so long as the axled distances match up.

[KronicRacer]

GOOD FIND RICO!!!! GOOD FIND.......

[hpi#1]

so i could use the red pinion for first gear, and the purple pinion fo second gear with no meshing problems right? but will the 2 speed still shift correctly cuz the ratios may be too far apart.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpi#1
so i could use the red pinion for first gear, and the purple pinion fo second gear with no meshing problems right? but will the 2 speed still shift correctly cuz the ratios may be too far apart.

yes:)

[hpi#1]

good tihng u posted that chart cuz i didnt know that was pssible.

[rico750sxi]

Thanks guys, I found it last night at hpi's site. Question: Does the wolfpack 2 speed come with anything? I know I will need the hpi spurs and pinions but will I need the clutch bell too?

[rico750sxi]

Also, where can I buy it?

[DOHCrazy]

youll need the clutch bell, and the bearings that go in the mount the 2 speed sits in... um... u can check the site www.wolfpackradicals.com !

[rico750sxi]

I checked the website and they redirected me to brucknerhobbies which doesn't list the 2 speed. I was looking for help not a wisea** answer.

[tommy_20014]

hi im new here... i had the rs4 3 type ss kit for a while and i still have it. I completely love the kit. So far i have the 12 cv-r os engine (with slide) and a paris pipe. hopefully ill have the upgraded chasis (made by GH) by friday.

i was wondering has the stock motor worn out on ur ss kits... how long did u have it for? I had mine for 2 weeks.

[oN_dUbZ]

aight guys..I got the 2 threaded red and the 2 yellow pinion grears so i'm just about fully set for my car. I am most likely going to get the RB Concepts ROAR Tuned Pipe or the THS Racing RTR-3 one. For the Engine, I couldn't find it online(and not even at my LHS, hpi#1), If you guys can Please link me to it, otherwise I think I'm going to get a O.S. Engine or anything that you guys say is good and can find it online.

And I want to buy some "spur" gears, but I don't anything about that and I have no clue whats going on with that..LoL...can u try to explain it a little bit please. I get gear ratioing a little bit from playing Gran Turismo 1 2 and 3 A-Spec.

Thanx and all a good night

[Viral_Fusion]

Hi I'm pretty new to this. I've owne a super nitro rally for a while till my engine was shot, but anyways i've decided that i wanted to get a rs4 3 SS, to satisfy my need for speed.
I'm on a limited buget of up to $700 CAD whitch is about 450 USD.

This is what i'm planning to get, andy segestions or critizm is appreceated:

RS4 3 SS (obveosly)
futaba recever (So i can use my Jr. XR2 radio)
Crystal
Cvec pipe (cuz i don't like the plastic crap HPI uses)

I'm still debating wheather to get some of these:
HPI High Performance Air Cleaner 10mm
HPI MIP Shiny CVD Front (2) Racer 2
HPI MIP Shiny CVD Rear (2) Racer 2
HPI Nitro Racing Clutch
Hot Bodies Stainless Brake Rotor Set Nitro RS4/3



And i was wondering what are the advantages of CVD or they just another way for me to use up my limited budget, and what kind of proformance gain would i see from the Nitro Racing Clutch?, and i was reading earlier that maybe i should get a set of those gears that u peeps were discusing a few posts ago.

[hpi#1]

on dubz, why did you get the yellow pinions. you acclerations is goign to be crap. especially with the FE. what i am going to is use the red pinion for first gear so i can get out of the hole fast and use the purple for 2nd gear so i will have good top speed and wont lose the accleration durring 2nd gear. i think this would be wiser (spelling) then using all yellow pinions.

also, can u get a trinity or sumting like that. jsut ask the guys at you LHS what's a decent enigne and they will steer u in the right direction.

[hpi#1]

viral fusion, the racing clutch makes quite a big diference, especailly with a high powered engine. it grips the clutch bell alot better so you don't loose power by the clutch slipping. y not just get a fiber disc brake? the plastic one i find is already pretty good so i tihnk the fiber disc would be more than enough.

[tl_ke_racer]

can i please get a stock # ffor the red gears?

[Scoobyvroom]

Just built my RS4 3 SS kit, this thing is slick...

Any way there wasn't any instruction in the manual as to setting proper gear mesh, and to make sure the gears axial alignment is correct. This sort of bothers me being a mechanic/machinst.

I can't see that you just sort of bolt the motor in there and expect it not to chew gears up.

Any way, any help would be apperciated...

TIA

Chris J.

[tl_ke_racer]

whats the red gears actually called i cant find them.

[tl_ke_racer]

HPI Aluminum Threaede Pinion Gear 19T Nitro 3 is that the one its red and is 19t

[Viral_Fusion]

hpi#1

Then is the CVD's any good?

[oN_dUbZ]

aight thanx again HPI#1...I meant to say that I was going to order them but I didn't so now I'm going to order the red threaded pinion gears. Could I / We get the links where to get those at please?

Also my LHS isn't that good so I have to buy most of my stuff online and look in magazines for parts and such and thats why I ask ALOT of questions in these forums(sorry if i annoy anyone). I live in northern california (510 Area code)..Any of you from here and know some good hobby shops.

What is the advantages of having the option CVDS? (actually what are the CVDz? =)..didnt read the manual much.) And which ones are good for the RS4-3?

Tuned Pipes:
I found some nice Yokomo Aluminum pipes and a couple Novarossi Aluminum pipes, so I might buy one of those or a THS Racing one.

Engines:
Novarossi(Still trying for one of those Bad Boyz)
O.S. CV-12R / 15R are alright I heard.

Also look at this engine I found:

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/147.html

Go down and look at this specs on the SP12TRPPRO

Its not pull start so i'm assuming that you would HAVE to use a starter box to use it?

thanx all and goodnight

[Viral_Fusion]

CVDs are the funny looking things that replace the other funny looking things (called dogbones or somthing) which are between the weel and the diff. this is what transfers power to ur wheels

oh and the motor its the semi-famous "outlaw" pulls pretty impressive numbers

[rickedstyles]

hey hpi #1 the yellow gears will increase acceleration, the red gears increase top end...so therefore the ideal setup would be yellow for first and red for second(i dont know if this would create a lag in the midrange) the red gear adds a tooth which increases top speed while yellow subtracts a tooth you can verify this at hpis website just look at the gear chart and pictures of gears

[rickedstyles]

43/47 gear combination
spur pinion ratio mesh
43 23 1.87 32.5
43 22 1.95 32.5
43 21 2.05 32.5

47 19 2.47 32.5
47 18 2.61 32.5
47 17 2.76 32.5
got these numbers from gear chart at hpi chart also has ratio for different spur gears but i just copied the stock spur combo's
as you can see losing a tooth gives lower gearing for acceleration
(like a car 4.11 and 3.73 and such)
heres a link to the chart
http://home.earthlink.net/~rmsaldana/gear_ratio.htm (http://)

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by rickedstyles
hey hpi #1 the yellow gears will increase acceleration, the red gears increase top end...so therefore the ideal setup would be yellow for first and red for second(i dont know if this would create a lag in the midrange) the red gear adds a tooth which increases top speed while yellow subtracts a tooth you can verify this at hpis website just look at the gear chart and pictures of gears

no, the reds are for accleration and the yellow for top end.

small pinion more accleration

bigger pinon more speed

for spur gears its the oposite

There's dogbones those regular straight axles, universal dogbones and CVD's. i havnt even owned CVD's but i hear u have to maintian them and the fall apart some times. so i would stick the universal dogbones.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Scoobyvroom
Just built my RS4 3 SS kit, this thing is slick...

Any way there wasn't any instruction in the manual as to setting proper gear mesh, and to make sure the gears axial alignment is correct. This sort of bothers me being a mechanic/machinst.

I can't see that you just sort of bolt the motor in there and expect it not to chew gears up.

Any way, any help would be apperciated...

TIA

Chris J.


scoob....they expect you just to line it up......if you take a single piece of notebook paper,put it between the spur and pinion gear,hold the engine against the gears and tighten the bolts,you'll have a nice mesh..it up to your peepers to make sure its on a staright angle..once you have the car for awhile,you'll be able to do the whole thing by eye..

Bsasically,you want a little play in the(a slight rocking in the mesh...the pinion gear(teeth) should set 3/4th down into the spur gear(teeth)..

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Thanks guys, I found it last night at hpi's site. Question: Does the wolfpack 2 speed come with anything? I know I will need the hpi spurs and pinions but will I need the clutch bell too?

yes you are going to need the clutch bell too that and bearings for the clutchbell housing. ill have the part numbers for all the stuff you need for this two speed later on.

[hpi#1]

just cut a strip of paer 1cm thick and around 6cm long and run it through the gears and do as fast harry sed.

[rico750sxi]

hpi #1, you are right there, smaller pinion, more acceleration but aren't the yellow ones the smaller pinions?

76977-17t pinion-yellow \
76978-18t pinion-purple - 1ST GEAR
76979-19t pinion-red /


76981-21t pinion-yellow \
76982-22t pinion-purple - 2nd GEAR
76983-23t pinion-red /


I just want to get it figured out so I can order the right gears.

[rickedstyles]

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic9783.jpghttp://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic9779.jpg
im beginning to think hpi 1 cant count....if you look at the gears and count the teeth the red are 19 and 23...if you want to put red in first gear to "improve acceleration" go for it but yellow might work much better....i couldnt get the pictures off hpi these are off tower but if you go to hpi its the same!!!!!

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
hpi #1, you are right there, smaller pinion, more acceleration but aren't the yellow ones the smaller pinions?

76977-17t pinion-yellow \
76978-18t pinion-purple - 1ST GEAR
76979-19t pinion-red /


76981-21t pinion-yellow \
76982-22t pinion-purple - 2nd GEAR
76983-23t pinion-red /


I just want to get it figured out so I can order the right gears.

you got the pinions backwards. the red are less teeth. the yellow are more teeth.

[hpi#1]

whooops, i got the gears backwards. yes, the yellwo have less teeth and the red more. sorry about that. so then the best combo, well for me would be yellow 17 first gear and the stock purple second gear.

[oN_dUbZ]

aight...so i guesss the yellow pinions improve acceleration. So what are the T #z for those? And would the small large or both be the best combination for speed?

[hpi#1]

for good accleration and decent top speed, the combo i sed before (17-22). for really good top speed purple for first gear and red for second. (18-23)

[tl_ke_racer]

Ok if i buy the red gear do i need one for the pinion as well as the spur gear?

[oN_dUbZ]

hey hpi#1....if you go to www.TowerHobbies.com and search "HPI Threaded Pinion" there are 8 different types. There are pictures of 2 yellow...2 purple...1 red...and there are 3 more. Are there 4 different types of Purple Ones like 2 stock type and 2 Optional Type or what?

[hpi#1]

I'm kinda confused :confused: There are 6 threaded pinion gears that HPI makes. the yellow are 17-21 the purple are 18-22, the red are 19-23

[oN_dUbZ]

i know...same here hpi#1...i thought there was 6...2 purp.....2 yellow...and 2 red...but i see 8 at Towerhobbies...this is weird :confused:

[rickedstyles]

i think they are just multiple listings if you look at the part numbers they are the same (just the 18 and 22)


so here is my question--how much top speed do you think will be gained by switching 2nd gear to red???
im guessing 3 to 4 mph??
anyone know?

[hardyboy]

I am experiencing a problem with my back differential. It appears that when I apply the brake that there is a strange noise comming from the car...when I open up the back diff I noticed that the large gear was worn on one side indicating that the gear was slipping whilst braking.

There is som play with the shaft, could this be causing the gears to slip?

Anyone had any simillar problems and how did you fix it??:confused:

[fastharry]

well there you go......typical HPI quality...my gears,even with that joke of a 1 HP motor were gone in a gallon also....the only thing to do is put teh HD HPI hardened gears...and shimming the stock gears doesn't help teh life of them..I did all that...

[rs4-3]

yes can some one tell me on the nrs4 3ss with the
threaded aluminum shock what springs work best
with this car LINEAR or PROGRESSIVE springs.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rs4-3
yes can some one tell me on the nrs4 3ss with the
threaded aluminum shock what springs work best
with this car LINEAR or PROGRESSIVE springs.

i use associated yellow in front and red in back. if they are linear or progressive i dont know..... but keeping it simple tight in front and soft in the back with 60 weight shock oil in front and 40 weight shock oil in the back

[hpi#1]

here we go. my differentials are i like brand new. obviously somebody was treating their car like a piece of crap and was doing mad donuts. 1 gallon in the 1hp, yea sure, i got 5 GALLONS through my ABN FE.

[hpi#1]

yea the shafts do have quite a bit of play. but you can easily fix that by putting in more silicone O rings.

[kidd25]

same is happening to my rs4 rtr...except it take more then half throttle to get it to move. is this normal?

[kidd25]

sorry about the last post....heres whats wrong..i just got down with the staic break-in with the rs4 rtr. now my go barley budges with more then half throttle. whats going here. did i get a defective model or is there something i can do to get it going. i assume its the clutch. some one let me know please

[tmaxx_1]

kidd25, can you push the car with your hand while it is not running but radio on in idle position? it should move easily. if not check your brakes. i noticed when i was building my nitro 3 ss kit that the clutch it came with was really tight on the pegs, so i built it with the racing clutch right from the start. maybe the clutch shoes are very tight and it takes lots of rpm's to get it moving. try a racing clutch. $15.00.

[kidd25]

yes i can roll it with the engine off and the electronics on

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by kidd25
yes i can roll it with the engine off and the electronics on


it sounds also like it might be too rich try leaning it out if you havent already 1 click clockwise at a time.

[kidd25]

yes i can roll it with the engine off and the electronics on

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by kidd25
yes i can roll it with the engine off and the electronics on


the motor is not making enough rpm to make the clutch expand to power the car it sounds also like it might be too rich try leaning it out (this will increase the rpm's) if you havent already 1 click clockwise at a time.

[japriljr]

Originally posted by fastharry
well there you go......typical HPI quality...my gears,even with that joke of a 1 HP motor were gone in a gallon also....the only thing to do is put teh HD HPI hardened gears...and shimming the stock gears doesn't help teh life of them..I did all that...

I think that HPI quality is not the problem. I just rebuilt my diffs after 1gallon and they look like new:p . I added a diff spring in the rear as well and it shoots out of corners great now! If you look at the specs of our "joke" motor and the OS .12TR has a 1.1 hp. This motor is not a joke. I just replaced the joke airfilter with a AE cylinder paper filter and its like a new motor.:eek: Holy **** what a difference!

[hpi#1]

if anytinhg adding a diff spring to the back would make your steerin/handling crap. the rear wheels need to diiferentiate the speed alot more than the fornt so adding a spring would lessen thins giving you crappy handling. these 2 reasons are why the kit DOESN'T come with a diff spring in the rear.

Oh ya, On_dubz where are you? give us some updates on finding the parts you wanted.

[DOHCrazy]

how exactly do u rebuild a diff?

[oN_dUbZ]

oh yeah...wass up hpi#1. Do you or any of you other guys have AIM...we could start up a chat or something for direct talk about parts and stuff.

ok. hpi#1...i'm going to get the YELLOW threaded pinion gears as soon as they come in to my NEW LHS that i goto.

I have gotten all the small option parts for my car including from the 2-speed tranny to wheels and tires.

All I need now is to get a better TUNED PIPE & HEADER, ENGINE, and RADIO Equipment. I was also thinking about getting a new chassis. Should I? got any recommendations? And should I get a sinkhead? or just keep the good old Purple anodized HPI one?

Hey to all you guys with HPI Nitro RS4-3 RTR guys. If you bought new engines and ur .15FE is laying around you guys can get it upgraded for a alright price from HPI.

Goto the "option parts" link. Then click "Nitro Engines" at the bottom and then click on the "NEW! Our Engine Exchange Offer....." at the top of the page.

[oN_dUbZ]

oh yeah...wass up hpi#1. Do you or any of you other guys have AIM...we could start up a chat or something for direct talk about parts and stuff.

ok. hpi#1...i'm going to get the YELLOW threaded pinion gears as soon as they come in to my NEW LHS that i goto.

I have gotten all the small option parts for my car including from the 2-speed tranny to wheels and tires.

All I need now is to get a better TUNED PIPE & HEADER, ENGINE, and RADIO Equipment. I was also thinking about getting a new chassis. Should I? got any recommendations? And should I get a sinkhead? or just keep the good old Purple anodized HPI one?

Hey to all you guys with HPI Nitro RS4-3 RTR guys. If you bought new engines and ur .15FE is laying around you guys can get it upgraded for a alright price from HPI.

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

Goto the "option parts" link. Then click "Nitro Engines" at the bottom and then click on the "NEW! Our Engine Exchange Offer....." at the top of the page.

BY THE WAY: The HPI Nitro Star Pro 12R SC and HPI Nitro Star Pro 12R RC are 1.0 HP engines which is good and the HPI Nitro Star Pro 12R SC Evolution II and HPI Nitro Star Pro 12R RC Pull Start Evolution II are 1.25HP Engines which is awesome. If you need PuLLstart get the R RC model and the R SC models and starerbox type

One last thing...should I add optional springs to my car?

[hardyboy]

Here's the full story.

My brother in law and I each got an RS4 Type SS for Xmas. We each built it seperately. We each went through the break in process and then drove around our driveway a little...no noised there!

When we took the cars on an open stretch of road, my brother in law's car started getting this "funny" sound. I thought it sounded like the tyres were slipping on the rims but they wern't. When we rotated the wheels we felt the diff gear slipping. This was after only 8-10 tanks! We took it apart and found the large gear was worn on one side. My brother in law had assembled it the same way as mine except that mine is good??

Abouth HPI quality...my kit came with a crack on the tuned pipe! Ever since I put in my first tank to break in. The crack is directly behind the flange joining the two plastic parts of the pipe together. It is leaking oil all over my car. I've had to resort to putting silicone compound until I get a new one!

[hardyboy]

Are there any replacements for the radio tray that comes with the Type SS??

I read way back in the posts that there was a carbon one but I could not recall where it was.

Can anyone help me?

[rs4-3]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hardyboy
Are there any replacements for the radio tray that comes with the Type SS??

I read way back in the posts that there was a carbon one but I could not recall where it was.

Can anyone help me? [/QUOTE

HOTBODIES makes a nice carbon one

towerhobbies (http://towerhobbies.com)
has it in stock

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
oh yeah...wass up hpi#1. Do you or any of you other guys have AIM...we could start up a chat or something for direct talk about parts and stuff.

KronicRacer aol S/N

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Are there any replacements for the radio tray that comes with the Type SS??

I read way back in the posts that there was a carbon one but I could not recall where it was.

Can anyone help me?

hey go to. www.meganitro.com they are the direct distributers for hot bodies option parts. if you cant find the parts on the site email them because they do have them. they will help you out.
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/99840_2252713767713154202_vl.jpg

[hardyboy]

Thanks....but I would like to see it installed on a car just to get a feel as to what it looks like.

Any pics???

[hardyboy]

Hey Kronic Racer!

Do you have purple blood running through your veins or what! I love how you have your car looking...eventually I hope mine will look simillar. Does it go fast..ie can it beat/equal a TC3??:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Thanks....but I would like to see it installed on a car just to get a feel as to what it looks like.

Any pics???

i posted a pic already the one above in my reply

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Hey Kronic Racer!

Do you have purple blood running through your veins or what! I love how you have your car looking...eventually I hope mine will look simillar. Does it go fast..ie can it beat/equal a TC3??:D

after taking the extra step(MONEY) (where's my insurance policy :p)..... it hangs with a stock tc3. AFTER many hours tuning the cars and radio. only prob is ive used the 12r ss good motor but not enuff balls for the sirio spec motors ive gone against. but.....that is changing since im getting a sirio outlaw (and a centax style clutch for the rs4-3R) that is gonna see double dooty on my tc3 and rs4-3R. it worries me because im not really confident about the suspension geometry on this car handeling the extra power.

btw that an old pic i posted.... there are alot of things that have changed on the car (radio, new foams, servos etc etc) since the pic was taken.

[KronicRacer]

ive yet to try the new gears so... it should be interesting to see how the car is going to handle after that the new wolfpack two speed and motor. it was tempermental last time out with the 15ss (lots of torque) the car felt overpowered (this was a month ago). im dreading putting the sirio in after that.... the thing that saddens me the most of this car is not the reliability of it or the beating it can take. it the fact that after all the mods and lightening can still get beaten at the track on a good day but...it wont get beat down... the bad days are when some one comes to the lot or the track that have a better car/motor (rossis and mugens).

[japriljr]

Originally posted by hpi#1
if anytinhg adding a diff spring to the back would make your steerin/handling crap. the rear wheels need to diiferentiate the speed alot more than the fornt so adding a spring would lessen thins giving you crappy handling. these 2 reasons are why the kit DOESN'T come with a diff spring in the rear.

Oh ya, On_dubz where are you? give us some updates on finding the parts you wanted.

Well, It made an improvement on mine:( Ask some of the top guys at the track, they run locked diffs:rolleyes: Take a look at most performance cars, all their rear diffs are limited slip for better acceleration, especially the rear. The rear does like to get loose under acceleration, but you just have to accomidate for it. Just ask the guy at the track yesterday with his Trinity NT and Rossi Pixi engine after I put him 2 laps down within a tank of gas.

[johnnybp7]

that is changing since im getting a sirio outlaw and a centax style clutch for the rs4-3R

The RS4 3 wont take a pilot shaft engine and the centax requires a pilot shaft to mount to

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by japriljr
Well, It made an improvement on mine:( Ask some of the top guys at the track, they run locked diffs:rolleyes: Take a look at most performance cars, all their rear diffs are limited slip for better acceleration, especially the rear. The rear does like to get loose under acceleration, but you just have to accomidate for it. Just ask the guy at the track yesterday with his Trinity NT and Rossi Pixi engine after I put him 2 laps down within a tank of gas.

it will give better accleration but less handling.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by johnnybp7
that is changing since im getting a sirio outlaw and a centax style clutch for the rs4-3R

The RS4 3 wont take a pilot shaft engine and the centax requires a pilot shaft to mount to

rs43 will take an s/g shaft motor. HotBodies developed a centax style clutch so s/g shaft motor can be used on the rs4 3.:rolleyes:

[johnnybp7]

do you know where I could get a HotBodies Centax Style Clutch for the RS4 3?

[hpi#1]

would shotening the fornt diff spring slow straight line accleration and slight turn accleration?

[tmaxx_1]

what is the proper size motor saver air filter for the hpi 12r ss?
is it better than the hpi high performance filter?

[hpi#1]

the filters that are foam with no surrounding stuff are the best.

like the novarossi etc. the first pic

http://www.novarossi.com/accessori_ing/filters/air_filters.html

[fastharry]

yep..those are great aircleaners..'cept they don't fit the SS motor.....get the HPI optional one..it's made by Motorsavers..and works fine....even includes the right size elbow...

[fastharry]

Originally posted by johnnybp7
do you know where I could get a HotBodies Centax Style Clutch for the RS4 3?



Cruisin RC's in Ramsey NJ...201 825 4884......ask for Ron bosco.....hes the owner..tell him fastharry gave you the #...

[oN_dUbZ]

hey hpi#1....do you have a AOL/AIM SN?

[hpi#1]

no, I use MSN IM

[oN_dUbZ]

what is ur MSN sign-in thing hpi#1?

[hardyboy]

I am looking at upgrading the disc brake that comes with the RS4 Type SS kit.

HPI have an optional fibre disc pad that can be inserted but there are others such as the stainless steel disc brake set from Hot Bodies. They also offer a ventelated disc brake set as well for about $10 more.

Can anyone tell me the difference between the two sets offered by HB? Also, are they worth it or is it a case of how long the pads will last?:confused:

[fastharry]

the single brake works better....the dual is just that,duel discs.....The guys at HB liked teh single one better,so that what I went with.....and it works fine...better than teh Fiber brake from HPI....no pulsing...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
I am looking at upgrading the disc brake that comes with the RS4 Type SS kit.

HPI have an optional fibre disc pad that can be inserted but there are others such as the stainless steel disc brake set from Hot Bodies. They also offer a ventelated disc brake set as well for about $10 more.

Can anyone tell me the difference between the two sets offered by HB? Also, are they worth it or is it a case of how long the pads will last?:confused:

the hb brakes are better hands down. the difference between them is that theoretically the vented ones supposedly cool off faster than the single disc brake.... in the end its just a matter of preference. here a pic of what the dual disc looks like installed:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/93032_9184239831056190825_vl.jpg

[hardyboy]

KRONICrACER

I didn't get a look at your pic can you post it again?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by johnnybp7
do you know where I could get a HotBodies Centax Style Clutch for the RS4 3?

go to www.meganitro.com and inquire about this part: HB 61145 Center Force Clutch

[KronicRacer]

brake pic again

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
what is ur MSN sign-in thing hpi#1?

my E-MAIL adress is pyromaniac_6@hotmail.com

[tmaxx_1]

hi, i have broken the rear hub( the part that holds the bearings and axle) 2 times now in a short time. each break was identical. hhas anyone else had problems with these? is this a good item to replace with aluminum?
or will it just bend and cause other parts to break?

[hpi#1]

mine have never broke except for the time by firends stupid rc10's throtle got stuck and smashed rite into the back of my car. either than that they have never broke. try getting carbon graphite instead of plastic.

[tl_ke_racer]

is teh hpi 2 speed easy to install im about to order one but im worried i will screw somthin up.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
is teh hpi 2 speed easy to install im about to order one but im worried i will screw somthin up.

very easy, just have pliers handy for the c clips and the little pins and loctite for the screws

[tl_ke_racer]

yep i got all that, to answer that question i have never broken that part u keep breakin.

[tmaxx_1]

my instant messenger handle is tmaxx_1@msn.com

[tmaxx_1]

ok it is not showing the character between the x and the 1 it is a minus sign while holding the shift key. _

[fastharry]

Originally posted by hpi#1
mine have never broke except for the time by firends stupid rc10's throtle got stuck and smashed rite into the back of my car. either than that they have never broke. try getting carbon graphite instead of plastic.


HPI doesn't make Graphite rear hubs......and they wouldn't be stronger..I run HPI's FRONT graphite pieces on my racer2's....they are stiffer,but break easier...

you guys ought to post from experience,not from the top of your head.

[tmaxx_1]

thanks fast harry. that is what i thought, graphite is less flexible and breaks easier. i have read about boiling plastic parts for 10 minutes in water to make less brittle. this would that work on hpi plastic?

[japriljr]

I've learned to buy two packs at a time of thoughs and the front hub carriers! $5 part and easy to fix. I've thought of buying the aluminum hub carriers, but $5 is a lot cheaper that $35.

[japriljr]

RPM sells "unbreakable" front control arms for the RS4, has anyone used them?

[hpi#1]

I must have thought he was talking about somthing else. cuz the thing im thinking of duz come in graphite.

on_dubz, do you have MSN IM? my e-mail adress is pyromaniac_6@hotmail.com

[tmaxx_1]

i don't like the way the stock fuel tank routes the fuel line back into the clutch bell, does the racing tank have the line in a better location? another thing i don't like is the machine screws(z517) that bolt the engine mounts to the chassia are not flat heads.
these screws seem to get hit buy pebbles often and if not replaced regularly it will be very difficult to remove the engine.
is there a better setup? how about titanium?

[hpi#1]

the screws work just fine for me. for the fuel tank problem, its easy, just turn it around backwards.

[hpi#1]

t-maxx_1, is this the piece you were refering to?

[tmaxx_1]

yes thats it. i have broke it twice. once from a side hit and once from a front hit. both parts broke in the same spot same type of break, where the tie rod part is breaks and you can see the bearing.

[hpi#1]

k, good. thats what i was talking about th whole time. i think they do actually come in graphite. and i think they are stronger than plastic. form a front hit??? did you break the rear once and the fornt once? well mine never break. do you crash your car alot? o yea btw, that pic i took is one of the spare susupension pieces that came wiht the kit. so check where ever you keep the parts that came with the car and use those.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by japriljr
RPM sells "unbreakable" front control arms for the RS4, has anyone used them?

the RPM arms were designed for the original RS 4..and even then,they were designed wrong....thjey had no sway bar mounts,and the rear arms we