HPI RS4 3/RS4 3 SS forum

[RaiderFootbal27]

so can any of you guys help me in what to start upgrading?

[tommy_20014]

what should i do next
???

[fastharry]

Originally posted by RaiderFootbal27
so can any of you guys help me in what to start upgrading?

I didn't forget you raider........just busy doing household stuff....and I race electric rally(HPI) and buggy(xxx kinwald) on fri nite's(Barnstormers in NY) and I have limited spare time,so Sundays my day for chores and race cars...

but I will tell you this....I have a RB turbo SS.(pictures a few pages back)...and a RB turbo tc3.........we race on a 125 ft x 100 ft race track with a 95 ft straight.......Like I said before,I've been running HPI's since 97.......on this same course....I only started running another type car last year(even though I've had my Impulse for 3 years).....and that car was the tc3..

the reason?.......I gave the SS every chance in the world....but even with the same engine,it was nowhere as fast on the straits as the tc3...I don't know why........either its internal gearing,wind up in teh drivetrain.....friction in the gear mesh(gear cars are supposed to be less efficiant at high RPM's)...yet the tc3,with shaft drive smokes it..(Maybe its the gleason cut gears,less internal mass,etc that make the tc3 run so fast..)


the other thing you have to look at is this...its just not starit speed you need..its cornering speed...and thats where the racing heritage shows through on the tc3...the SS chassis was designed to look for traction in parking lots..thats why it rolls in corners,and gfeels so sluggish.....and why it seems to slow down in corners....

the tc3 was designed for "traction treated tracks..like the one you race on......

I'm not telling you this to make you mad....but,if every one is racing a tc3,and they can drive and set up the car,it will be a challenge to catch the(as your finding out).....

BUT,if you still want to try,thats OK......I'd start with a OS motor.....I hade a side exhaust CVR 12 in mine before the rb..I think thats the perfect enginefor this car......The RB was way to much engine.......teh OS was alot faster then HPI's DOG SS motor(alot more low end)....but it was controllable....

what tires are you guys using?.....

[fastharry]

also,if you go back and look at my car,I have the Impulse tank in it with teh AFL cap set up......way better quality the HPI's stuff.....

[New92]

Fastharry, I am curious. I know you say you raced HPI's forever and you have 70 cars and all that. But almost every single post you make here is putting the HPI's down. Why? The only thing I see you doing is making ppl that just bought an HPI car and like it feel bad because you are telling them a piece of crap. I know thats basically the way you made me feel. But you know what? I have an RS4 RTR3 and my neighbor has a TC3...yeah he is a tiny bit faster than me topend, but I accelerate harder than him and my car handles waaaayyy better than his. And I am not the only one with this opinion. 3 different LHS's in town all basically told me that the HPI was a better car overall. The TC3s are breaking alot more than the HPI's and for the money difference the performance difference just isnt there. With a few hopups that puts the HPI in the same price range as the TC3 and they are dead on even.

[fastharry]

thats not my intention...MY HPI's have served me great.....and offer the novice a good deal in RTR package.....the SS,in kit form is an OK car....but HPI cars are not marketed as race type cars...they are intended for parkink lot bashing.....HPI says that,and I don't care what forum or thread you go on,almost everyone has the same opinion...I don't care if its teh Yoke RTR forum,reflex,Impulse,Tc3,etc..alot of these owners are former HPI customers,and they're opinions are valid.......even the mag road tests,when they test HPI products,say they do every OK..but when they tested teh Tc3 RTR,they said it was the best RTR on the market......

and I'm not just pro tc3...look at the value in teh reflex.....price out a 705 impulse....or just do a tc3......look at how the cars perform overall,and the amount of dollars it took to get there...

when you add up the prices vs performance,the HPI's lose...the only reason I stand out is that I still post on an HPI forum or thread......every one else is gone.....

and my intention is not to ruin everyones fun..the HPI,in its intended element is great......and i'm not saying you cant beat a tc3.....esp. on the street.....But set those 2 cars up properly,on a clean racertrack(and it doesn't have to be prepared surface) and the tc3...or ANY pro stlye car will beat it(drivers being equal)...

I work next to a LHS...we go racing every tues nite..and I see it time and time again...HPI guys leoading up their cars with HOP ups..only to get frustrated trying to get teh car to out handle a pro car.....yes I know they take more knowledge to set up..but,after havinga hpi car for you first car,and getting teh basics down,you can do it.....and thats my point...

use your hpi's and have fun.....want to spend couple bucks with hop ups,have fun,OK.....but don't spend hundreds and think you'll have a racing machine.......



BTW,go to all HPI links..check out race results from around the country from Hobby shops just like yours.....go on different forums and ask what people who race drive in club events....


besides....HPI's working on a pro car.....why have all your money tied up in the RTr3 chassis...

[New92]

Ok, that made me feel a little better then :D

I was just beginning to feel like I had wasted alot of money...but I know this wont be my first car and like I said I AM having fun with it for the time being....RC anything is just plain fun lol.

Thanks for the clarification :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
besides....HPI's working on a pro car.....why have all your money tied up in the RTr3 chassis...

really?! since when?...... this may be good news from the hpi camp.

hey shawn!! good to see ya around here.

[hpi#1]

shawnhpi, i used to use the hpi forum also. i have a pic of your car fomr there.

www.geocities.com/rchomepage

[shawnhpi]

Ha cool HPI

that is cool.l.

[shawnhpi]

Yeah..i can't wait to drive this car around and have fun.. Hope i don't break nothin HAHAAH..

ohh well its so nic eto share pics and convos with the old members.. Will post when i get new stuff..

1

[darmiejr]

HPi 1, That's a nice web site with some good shots. I'm torn between this RTR 3 and the schumacher fusion. I really want one for the camaro SS body. You see, I own the real one 2001
http://www.angibabi.com/camaro

I'm thinking tax season, I'm in there!! So, maybe next month.

[tl_ke_racer]

im ordering a ths header and piep set for my rtr 3 and a fuel filter.:D

[hardyboy]

Anyboby know where I can get an idea for track designs??

[hpi#1]

when my novarossi pipe comes in im getting a t-maxx header, 2 speed and 17T pinion gear.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by darmiejr
HPi 1, That's a nice web site with some good shots. I'm torn between this RTR 3 and the schumacher fusion. I really want one for the camaro SS body. You see, I own the real one 2001
http://www.angibabi.com/camaro

I'm thinking tax season, I'm in there!! So, maybe next month.

thats one nice ss.... :)

[Skateboarder]

I have a question, Do you think it would be worth it for me to sell my SS and buy a Ntc3? I got my SS a while ago but only put 3 tanks of nitro through it because my photography was taking up all of my time(and money). I have a T-maxx and a factory team gt (plus 4 other electrics) and I bought my SS just to have fun with in parking lots and to bring to car shows when I go there to shoot.
The only other nitro tc that I will be bashing with is a ntc3 that has a lot of hop ups so even if I got a ntc3 Id get beat anyway.
I know the quality of AE products because Ive been bashing my ft gt for about two years now with out any problems. So do you think that I should just stick with the hpi considering that I wont be doing any major racing?

Thanks

[RaiderFootbal27]

hey dude...im getting into photography also, im in a class, right now...we gotta take pics of people, what are some good tips for taking good pics of people, and the film is black and white...

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Skateboarder
I have a question, Do you think it would be worth it for me to sell my SS and buy a Ntc3? I got my SS a while ago but only put 3 tanks of nitro through it because my photography was taking up all of my time(and money). I have a T-maxx and a factory team gt (plus 4 other electrics) and I bought my SS just to have fun with in parking lots and to bring to car shows when I go there to shoot.
The only other nitro tc that I will be bashing with is a ntc3 that has a lot of hop ups so even if I got a ntc3 Id get beat anyway.
I know the quality of AE products because Ive been bashing my ft gt for about two years now with out any problems. So do you think that I should just stick with the hpi considering that I wont be doing any major racing?

Thanks


OK..ready...and this goes for all you guys that think I'm a wack job for stating true opinions.....and remember..I HAVE an SS..teh pictures are a few threads back.....I spend all my mid life crisis time readin,tuning,learning about rc cars...I'm no genius,and I'm no pro driver...BUT...I did put my super nitro into 4th place in teh A main(out of over 50 entrants) in teh NY HPI challenge..and my SS into 9th in the a main in nitro mod..and my racer2 won the B main in nitro mod..and that class had 65 racers in it....and I'm telling you this so you know I put the effort forth to race cars...I run Rally at Barnstormers in NY(5th on teh last point series),and am usually in the a main(3rd last week)....

I also run EVERY tues in Nanuet NY....so I like to race,but I also play.........THAT being said...I have the new issue of RC car in front of me.....and they have an article titled"second look' at the HPI SS.....Keep in mind they loaded the car with options(WAY more money than a tc3 nitro STOCK).....and ran and tested the car with every factory tip they could get from HPI.....


herers what they finished up with at teh end.......



"The Type SS is one of those cars that suffers from an identity crisis.HPI doesn't market it as a racer,but based upon feedback from our readers,theres some confusion as to where the SS slots. For example,we get many letters in which we are asked "which should I get,a TYPE ss or serpent 705?".....this is,of course,jsut an example,but there are people who consider teh type SS to be in the high end racing catergory.......IT ISN"T....WHY?.....the drivetrain is fron an off road truck,and in comparison with that of say,teh NITRO TC3,it comes across as less precise and not as efficiant......


we think that HPI thrust the type SS onto teh market to quell unrest from from those critical of the RTR 3 and its HO HUM performance...we really like this as a high performance fun car..if you build it well,install good radio gear, AND find the right set up,you can be succesful at your club track...ABOVE THAT LEVEL OF COMPETITION,YOU'LL BE AT A DISADVANTAGE"..but again,a s a parking lot racer,the SS has everything....a truly good engine,a two speed,solid design,a durability.


Just don't confuse it with the higher priced thoroughbreds.....


hers my whole point in a nutshell....WHY NOT BUY THE DAMM TC3 and run that in a parking lot?.....they just loaded a SS and TOLD YOU the car can't be compared to any of the pro cars....

in a parking lot its fun..blast up and down teh lot,etc.....But blow teh lot off,set up a track,and you'll see the limitations quick..esp if a NON hpi car shows up..and that guy can half way tune and drive....


so skateboarder,hers my answer..if you want a low maintenance car..and all you're gonna do is play and bash the SS is fun.....

but I have to admit..I take the 2 cars(the RB powred SS and tHE RB TC3 nitro) out for some parking lot practice by myself,set up pylons and frisbees..and every time I do it I'm stunned by how much better teh tc3 runs....

the car turns in a perfect arc......it SMOKES teh SS in take off and top speed,and just glides through corners......and every time time I drive the SS keep thinking what the heck is HPI thinking?....

[Skateboarder]

Thanks FastHarry, I think I will stick with the old SS, I think I might convert it to rally also.
Oh and the reason why I ask you was not because I think your some wack job that hates hpi or anything like that. I asked you because I know you know your stuff and that you have good experience with the cars.



RaiderFootbal27: Some good tips would be to not to make your subject(the people) know that your there. That way you get some good candid shots. What type of black and white are you using? I would sugjest using tri-ex 400. Um since this is an rc forum, if you have any other question feel free to PM me, Ill be glad to help.

[tl_ke_racer]

convert it to a rally? has anyone done that? can u do it? and would it even perform good?

[hpi#1]

Fastharry, i love my nitro 3 and i nkow oyu say that the ntc3 is better in ways epsecially handling. i honestly found when i shortend my diff spring my handling really improved. have you tryed this. cuz if you do or buy the softer spring maybe i could save you from kickin yourslef in the a*$ for spending all that money on ur nitro 3's and then end up beign disapointed. and hey if it works (for you atleast) at least your nitro 3 will be a little bit better (in your opinion). if you try can you give us some input on your findings.

HPI#1

[DOHCrazy]

i shorten my diff spring by liek 1 1/2 coils... was this enough... i still have to take it to a parking lot to really see if it improved it, the street doesnt have enough turning room!

[DOHCrazy]

i shorten my diff spring by liek 1 1/2 coils... was this enough... i still have to take it to a parking lot to really see if it improed it, the street doesnt have enough turning room!

[Sdawg1971]

I want to know what different ENGINES people have tried on this car. And how they went about setting them up.... how they worked as apposed to the stock engine....

Thanks...

Also had anyone tried using the HG Yank tool w/ power drill?

[Skateboarder]

I was checking the car out last night to see what would have to be done to make it better for rally. In the rear all it need is some longer shock. For the front I think there will have to be some cutting done to get some more suspesion travel. For now Id just make a sheild to protect the 2-speed but Id probably switch to the 1 spedd tranny or even see if the slipper clutch form the nitro Mt/super nitro rally would work.

IM not thiking of something that would be full rally, just a car that I could take to the baseball diomond and have fun ripping around.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by DOHCrazy
i shorten my diff spring by liek 1 1/2 coils... was this enough... i still have to take it to a parking lot to really see if it improed it, the street doesnt have enough turning room!

1 1/2 coils is perfect. hope to get some input. oh ya you may want to grease up your differential while your at it.

[hpi#1]

shawnhpi, i notice you spelled colour colour. I'm Canadian also. Do you by any chance live in Toronto? By the way nice pics of you car on your site. i saw you posted your car on the hpi forum. it says they give out prizes to the best car. i bet you'll win cuz they rated your car 5 out of 5. your rite the faq forum is crap, they shoudl have kept the old one.

[shawnhpi]

Hey hpi actually im not from canada only been a few times... I will be racing up there soon in toronto! Ill let you know when i go. The spellin just stuck with me.. So its like a habbit i guess..

And HPI don't rate it members do.. or guest.. U can rate the car every one can.. Rate my car pleas :)

hpi racing forumshttp://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59086

click the rate thing at the bottom right corner after the pic.. (here is a pic provided to show it..)

[hpi#1]

oh woops. mostly only canadians spell colour colour. i didn't even see that rating thing. ill reate ur car. btw, where you racing in Toronto? I can't find a track anywhere.

[shawnhpi]

well i do know there is a huge track there not sure where exactly i will find out..

1

[supra528]

hey,
hpi#1, i live in toronto too... where do u race????
mike

[supra528]

i am also having a big prob wit my car. i just got the hpi hd diff gears 38T and 13T. on the 38, there and no little things stickin out to hold down the other gears. has any one sucessfully put in the nmt hd gears into there car????
mike

[hpi#1]

i well in the post above, I my self sed i was looking for a track. ;)
I don't really understand what your saying. can you explain it again or take a pic of it and post it?

shawnhpi, did u find the track name or location?

[supra528]

well the track that i race at is at hobbyhobby. what i am am saying is that on the stock diff gears there are to little knobby things sticking out that lock down the gears in the diff case. and on the hd ones there isnt the knobby things. has anyone every successfully put hd gears onto the nitro 3????? and do i need them?? im useing a sirio outlaw.

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by supra528
well the track that i race at is at hobbyhobby. what i am am saying is that on the stock diff gears there are to little knobby things sticking out that lock down the gears in the diff case. and on the hd ones there isnt the knobby things. has anyone every successfully put hd gears onto the nitro 3????? and do i need them?? im useing a sirio outlaw.

Have you ever driven on Gallxy Hobbys track?

[hpi#1]

hobby hobby is near pearson intl. right? I live in East York, Toronto so is it worth going there (i'm 15)? well i guess the diff should fit together cuz why wouldn't it? that would be pretty stupid. Just follow through the instructions. also the stock diff should be strong enough.

[supra528]

email me on my hotmail acount. its supra528@hotmail.com. ur pretty close to where i live and it only takes 30-45 min. on a sat or sun. moring to get there. u should come try a race and see what u think.yes it's close to pearson. i live in LP. thanz for the help. ill try to fit the diff gears on.
mike

[tommy_20014]

hey guys.... i heard lots of ppl damage their cars a lot down at hobbyhobby... that is y i race at galaxy hobby

[hpi#1]

In Mississauga, that's kinda far. i think i will try going to the hobby hobby track some day. I've been in the hobby for 3 years but i have never raced. I've watched 2 but thats about it. and since i my new cx 12 and my nova pipe is coming and im getting a couple of other parts I want to try racing. especially since my friend just got an on road, ntc3 rtr. oh ya since its too cold out i havn't broken in my enigne and i can't wait. i'll post some pics when i get th rest of my parts. oh ya, what are some tip/tricks or any other things i should know to prep or help me with racing? and im assuming the track is indoor right?

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by hpi#1
In Mississauga, that's kinda far. i think i will try going to the hobby hobby track some day. I've been in the hobby for 3 years but i have never raced. I've watched 2 but thats about it. and since i my new cx 12 and my nova pipe is coming and im getting a couple of other parts I want to try racing. especially since my friend just got a on road, ntc3 rtr. i'll post some pics when i get th rest of my parts.

If you've never raced then I'd say come out to galaxy. Compared to Hobby Hobby, Galaxy is a lot more relaxed, you go at your own pace. Hobby Hobby is a lot more competitve. The track at Hobby Hobby is made of PVC pipe so if you hit the wall well there will be damage, Galaxy uses fire hoses so your car will go over the hoses and there will be no damage. Also Galaxy is about 10 mins at the most away from Hobby Hobby.

[shawnhpi]

This summer might be traveling up to ca to race.. I hope so at least.. All depends on if i want to go skiin or not :)

But ill post it on here if i go.. So yall can look for my car.

[hpi#1]

when is the track at hobby hobby open? and how duz it cost to race?

[bpc-rally]

haha im here

[hpi#1]

hey

[shawnhpi]

No way dude u are here

Just playing whats up...

[supra528]

i think the season begins in april at hobbyhobby and it costs like 10bucks can. u can check out the schedule at www.hobbyhobby.com/plrc

AHHHHHH!!!!! -30 degrees C today wit the windchill!!!! no breakin for me

mike

[hpi#1]

so i guess they don't have an indoor track. duz galaxy have a indoor track?

[johnnybp7]

No, Galaxy doesn't have an indoor track. I beleive in Etobicoke theres is a go kart track that is being used for R/C driving. I'm not 100% sure if this is the right place but I think the address is.

401 Mini-Indy Go-Karts
37 Stoffel Drive
Etobicoke, ON
M9W6A8
(416) 614-6789

[hpi#1]

do you guys know of nay indoor tracks? cuz i want to break in my new enigne but its too cold out side.

[johnnybp7]

nope, I don't know of any indoor tracks

[hpi#1]

fastharry, read this, especailly the last sentance.

told you so, but no, dont listen to me cuz i dont know anything, ha and dont listen to me about the steerin knuckles either.
told you guys that shortening the diff spring gives better steering. just read the link below. it sasy the harder the spring the less steerin, therfore shortening it will make it less stiff giving you better handling. but you may have to give a tad more throttle around the corners. btw, the question was not made by me

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=59631

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpi#1
fastharry, read this, especailly the last sentance.

told you so, but no, dont listen to me cuz i dont know anything, ha and dont listen to me about the steerin knuckles either.
told you guys that shortening the diff spring gives better steering. just read the link below. it sasy the harder the spring the less steerin, therfore shortening it will make it less stiff giving you better handling. but you may have to give a tad more throttle around the corners. btw, the question was not made by me

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=59631

this is true ill give you that much. but , what in the world would make you cut the spring when this spring kit has been out for at least 6 months..... those springs are all the same length. the big difference is the different tensions(spring strength). its about the tension not the length.:rolleyes:

[hpi#1]

less length = less tension. so why buy the set

[warden141]

Does SS or super nitro rally go in reverse

ss - any one use this for rally - what adjustments needed

[RCRACER2471]

Hey anyone use a receiver pack instead of alkaline batteries for there receiver?? Also does any one buy a charger for the radio?? Also where is there needed to recharge it. It cant recharge the alkaline batteries.

[tmaxx_1]

i use Rayovac rechargable alkiline batteries in the radio and reciever. they work good, and they are alkiline so they have a full 1.5 volts instead of 1.2volts for nicad and nickle metal hydride batteries. there are chargers for $10 another good point about these is they dont lose there charge if they sit for a long period,and no memory problems. about $6 for a pack of 4.

[RCRACER2471]

thanx. I remember readin this somewhere that rechargeable receiver packs dont have as quick a response compared to alkaline batteries. What about that?? And can still answer my question about the Transmitter about it being able to recharge without buying new AA batteries.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpi#1
less length = less tension. so why buy the set

LOL there a specific length for a reason. all you need is to have a different spring weight.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
LOL there a specific length for a reason. all you need is to have a different spring weight.


LOL, NOT. there is no specific tension or wieght. the spring it reduces the tension as if i were using a softer spring.

which is exacly like like using a spring with a lighter wieght. smarty. so there is no need in buying a softer spring when i can just shorten it and have less tension.

[tmaxx_1]

what shock fluid do you use ..front- rear?
is the stock #300 really 30 weight fluid?
what springs do you use?
i whant to setup for a parking lot, not preped track.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by SteveP
I just got finished testing one for the mag. I think it's a great car. I fully intend to modify one of these when a few more option parts become available. Just curious Greg, which parts didn't fit that you thought would fit?

A few observations. Definately faster than the RS4 2. I tested both and found the "3" to be about 4 mph faster. It's also quicker. In nearly five seconds, the "3" pulls about 30 feet ahead of the "2." I also REALLY like the shaft drive. I intentionally drove for over an hour in parking COVERED with sand and pebbles. It would have taken out a belt drive car in less than a minute, but the shaft drive didn't have a problem. Hey Steve would you happen to no if any one makes a one piece pipe that fits the rtr 3? Chrome maybe!

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by tmaxx_1
i use Rayovac rechargable alkiline batteries in the radio and reciever. they work good, and they are alkiline so they have a full 1.5 volts instead of 1.2volts for nicad and nickle metal hydride batteries.

Originally Posted by RCRACER2471
thanx. I remember readin this somewhere that rechargeable receiver packs dont have as quick a response compared to alkaline batteries. What about that?? And can still answer my question about the Transmitter about it being able to recharge without buying new AA batteries.

Ok Alkaline batteries are good because they have a 1.5v when they start, but unfortunately once they start loosing charge their voltage starts to drop. The advantage of the NiCd batteries is that they keep the same voltage while their charge drops down, only having 1.2v total voltage.
So, in general the NiCd batteries are better than alkaline, and also if you charge them using a tricker charge you wont harm them as you will to alkaline batteries.

So in a receiver, you will still have a total of 6v using 4 alkaline batteries as a pack of NiCd batteries. Only that the rechargable pack keeps its voltage constant.

To rap this up, use NiCd (Nickel Cadium) batteries for radio and receiver..........its expensive to buy them, but in the long run they pay for themselves.

Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
Hey Steve would you happen to no if any one makes a one piece pipe that fits the rtr 3? Chrome maybe!

Is this what you are looking for......:D

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/thpg1010.jpg

Here is the link for THS Racing Products Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=0)

Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by hpi#1
LOL, NOT. there is no specific tension or wieght. the spring it reduces the tension as if i were using a softer spring.

which is exacly like like using a spring with a lighter wieght. smarty. so there is no need in buying a softer spring when i can just shorten it and have less tension.

HPI#1, the springs have a different wire diameter and type of wire that is used in order to create the certain weight for each spring rate. That is what gives the different tension to each spring. If you cut the spring it wont do anything, just shorten the spring, and shorten your shock travel length. So NO cutting the spring will change the tension or the wieght of the spring.

Good luck, :)

[NitroJoe]

Can anybody recommand a head sink for the Type SS. It kind a tall, I wand something low. thanks

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
Can anybody recommand a head sink for the Type SS. It kind a tall, I wand something low. thanks DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY. WHY DO YOU WANT TO CHANGE IT ?

[NitroJoe]

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY. WHY DO YOU WANT TO CHANGE IT ?

it kinda heigh. Well anyway thanks. U right.

[japriljr]

Originally posted by sebtarta
HPI#1, the springs have a different wire diameter and type of wire that is used in order to create the certain weight for each spring rate. That is what gives the different tension to each spring. If you cut the spring it wont do anything, just shorten the spring, and shorten your shock travel length. So NO cutting the spring will change the tension or the wieght of the spring.

Good luck, :)
Okay, I have something to get off my chest. This forum SUCKS! Can anyone read? Nobady answers your questions. You have guys like HPI#1 and ALL he ever say is "shorten you diff spring!"

He is talking about the DIFF spring NOT his shock spring.

Fastharry has 12 million cars, 11 million HPI's, but HPI's suck, hmmm.

You have people asking questions that were answered 10 times, but they are too lazy to go back and read!

Sorry. I had to get that off my chest. Carry on.:p

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by japriljr
Okay, I have something to get off my chest. This forum SUCKS! Can anyone read? Nobady answers your questions. You have guys like HPI#1 and ALL he ever say is "shorten you diff spring!"

He is talking about the DIFF spring NOT his shock spring.



Ok i must say i thaought he was saying about the shock springs and not the diff srpings that you put inside the diffs. My bad:p
But either way, if you cut the diff spring it wont matter, because it might not even compress once you put it in. The best way is to play with different wieght of diff silicone oil.
I used to use the diff springs in my RS4, but I threw them away because they were forcing the bevel gears. I just added to rubber o-rings and placed 30k weight infront and 3k at back.....much better handling, and I was not forcing the bevel gears.

Once again, sorry for the confusion, but it was 3am last night, and I did not read every SINGLE POST (as JAPRILJR would say).

Good luck, :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by sebtarta
HPI#1, the springs have a different wire diameter and type of wire that is used in order to create the certain weight for each spring rate. That is what gives the different tension to each spring. If you cut the spring it wont do anything, just shorten the spring, and shorten your shock travel length. So NO cutting the spring will change the tension or the wieght of the spring.

Good luck, :)

youre still right in what you said because it applies to the diff spring too. (it applies to any spring).

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by sebtarta
HPI#1, the springs have a different wire diameter and type of wire that is used in order to create the certain weight for each spring rate. That is what gives the different tension to each spring. If you cut the spring it wont do anything, just shorten the spring, and shorten your shock travel length. So NO cutting the spring will change the tension or the wieght of the spring.

Good luck, :)

i was talking about the diff spring. no offense or anything but people shoudl read throguh more carefully.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by japriljr
Okay, I have something to get off my chest. This forum SUCKS! Can anyone read? Nobady answers your questions. You have guys like HPI#1 and ALL he ever say is "shorten you diff spring!"

He is talking about the DIFF spring NOT his shock spring.

Fastharry has 12 million cars, 11 million HPI's, but HPI's suck, hmmm.

You have people asking questions that were answered 10 times, but they are too lazy to go back and read!

Sorry. I had to get that off my chest. Carry on.:p

exaclty

[hpi#1]

and another thing it does make the diff less tight cuz the spring is still reachin each gear inside the diff cuz the spring is quite compressed. plus, i coudl tell if it made a differnce or the spring was wya too short.sorry for the 3 different posts in a row. but ya i agree with the guy, these people are too lazy to read through and then they make false accusations resulting in a bunch of waisted time.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by SteveP
It will be in the June issue of both magazines, and you can bet on a cool project. Hey Steve what are the gear options w/ the RTR3 2 speed trans. Both pinion & spur combos. Short & top end. THANKS FOR FOR YOUR HELP!

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by NitroJoe
Can anybody recommand a head sink for the Type SS. It kind a tall, I wand something low. thanks

if you dont care about looks. you could cut of the first set of fins at the top with a dremel or somthing. but you're gonna get less cooling which is a bad thing. if you u are going to do it just make sure you dont get any metal into the carb. to be safe just take the whole head off the enigne.

[KronicRacer]

updated pics with hotbodies centerforce clutch installed on a sirio outlaw....
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/189343_6868420517238165516_vl.jpg
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/189344_537123851072723737_vl.jpg

[KronicRacer]

..

[fastharry]

is that motor bolted in?.......or just resting on the mounts..?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
is that motor bolted in?.......or just resting on the mounts..?

it was bolted in..... took those pics last night. i now put the motor in my tc3 to break it in

[hpi#1]

nice car. my pipe is coming in on wednesday, finally i orderd it on the 28th. anyways when i go to pick it up im getting some parst so ill post some pics then.

[KronicRacer]

heres another pic of it on the starter box...

[JeffRS4_3ss]

hey :)
I was wondering if your guys used this upper deck???
and if you do would u have to modify it to work on the rs4-3ss?

[fezzy]

Hi Everyone, First time posting in here... Just recently swapped my Schumi Fusion to get this RS43 SS, Comes with Novarossi CX12P, Hotbodies Front Steel Universals and GPM Centre Gear Carrier. First run with it today was promising, the car is more or less brand new so the engine still needed some tuning, shift point adjustment and so fourth. But with my Pitshizumu tyres I was very surprised how well it handled, I don't think you could ever ask for a more better car park basher, its really solid, easy to work on/clean and dead reliable compared to belt driven tourers. Not as fast as my Fusion, But thats what I wanted.. Still didn't get it into 2nd today and it still seemed pretty quick, Can only get better with abit of engine tuning too.

Anyway, Enough talk.. Here are some pics.

http://www.geocities.com/aqwdre2000/ss.txt
http://www.geocities.com/aqwdre2000/ss2.txt
http://www.geocities.com/aqwdre2000/ss3.txt

[fastharry]

Kronic..the reason i ask is that teh pinion gear(s) don't look aligned with the spurs...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
Kronic..the reason i ask is that teh pinion gear(s) don't look aligned with the spurs...

good eye!!.. they dont aling not completly they catch 1/2 way.... that was reason number one for me taking the motor off and slappin it on the ntc3....gonna see if i can get adjustable motor mounts by wolfpack radicals that way it can move forward abit when i do use it on the rs4 3 later on.....:) 1 step closer to centax clutching it....:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by JeffRS4_3ss
hey :)
I was wondering if your guys used this upper deck???
and if you do would u have to modify it to work on the rs4-3ss?

where did you find it? i havent seen it but it looks like it would fit. is it the ti upper deck? ..if anything the center area where the bulk head is located and the rear (looks) might be troublesome but..... thats guesstimating off that pic.

yo fezzy welcome aboard.....

[hpi#1]

fezzy, i have a nitro 3 also. and i also have a cx 12 p. cuz i saw it go in my friends car and it looked really fast through the whole powerband. but i hant broken it in yet so how you like yours? also if you think it handles good already, try shortenng the forn diff spring by a coil or a coil and ahlf, it helps alot.

[fezzy]

Yea, It tends to understeer alot coming out of corners on power.

I've only run the CX12 a couple of tanks, it is broken in though.. Just. Very smooth powerband, mine still needs tuning so can't really compliment on the overall performance. Bit tempramental at starting though...

[hpi#1]

under steer?, i tohugh u sed it handles really good? anyway shortening the diff spring wil fix that. i think you'll be hapy with the enigne it hauls a$$.

[RaiderFootbal27]

hey, get a better pipe, you will get so much more performance with a good pipe, that pipe sucks....mine just split open on the cracks, in the middle of pipe, and i didn't even hit it or anything...if you don't have a lot of money right now...get a associated pipe..its about $30, and its got a lot of torque, thats what i got...i'll be upgrading to better later...

[shawnhpi]

No way screw that don't get no AE pipe....

Get the THS pipe for this car. I use it on my car.. I had it 75% of the runs on my rs4 with the ss engine and it was awesome.. Now its on my fan15 (not run yet).. But ide go with the THS pipe (or rtd logics or something like that, either way both the same)..... Its 50 and its worth all of it.. I was using a CVEC what a waste of TIME that was. week later i went and bought the tHS. Now the cvec sits in my box with broken tips.. but the rest is fine.. Any one want it for 17.00 shipped???


1


Ide go with the THS pipe

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

[shawnhpi]

http://members.aol.com/oxxshawnxxo/t12.jpg .

[fezzy]

I definetely think that a new Pipe/Header is first, I used to own a NMT so I know that owning a HPI you can get carried away with mods, But for me.... Header/Pipe, Carbon Fibre top deck and possibly shock towers.

[hpi#1]

Im using a novarossi on mine. since its desgined for left side mounted engine, im going to use some epoxy where u mix the 2 together and it makes meatal and use that to plug the original pressure nipple and install my own. and im getting the t-maxx blue tube header cuz its the 90 degree ehader with the biggest port opening i could find. the stock one shoudl be fine tohugh. also if you havnt got a racing clutch, you shoudl it helps alot.


http://www.novarossi.com/marmitte/foto/51602.jpg

[Crashmaster]

Does anyone know what the best type of fuel for the type ss is?

[fezzy]

IMO There is no type of fuel that works best in one engine than it does in another, Use whatever fuel you can get a hold of from your LHS and that you've had good experiences with. Also don't listen to people that tell you to run your engine in on lower % Nitro Fuel then switch to higher % Nitro after break in, Its aload of crap, Break the engine in on the same fuel you plan to run through it when its fully broken in on day-to-day running.

[hpi#1]

I used to use blue thunder in ym FE's and now that i have gotten my novarossi i dont want to screw it up cuz i heard that the stianign of blue that blu thunder does is bad for your engine. is it true?

[tl_ke_racer]

im converting mine to a rally already got the suspensiona rms set im orderin rally shocks body tires its gonna be cool.

[kojak61]

Has anyone used the Nitro MT diff in the RS4 3

[DOHCrazy]

what does the Carbon Fibre top deck do for the car?

[fezzy]

It SHOULD help stiffen the whole chassis while adding minimal, if any weight.

[hpi#1]

it takes off a bit of wieght.

[tl_ke_racer]

is the hpi aluminum header worth getting please answer quickly im buying my stuff right now.

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys..wassup...havent posted in a while. Anyways....What are the Differences between the RTR3 and the TypeSS? I wanted to know the diffs, and which one is betta? And how hard is to to build that kit for a newbie, lets say a person who has never even TOUCHED a nitro powered R/C Car before?

[hpi#1]

SS has a 2 speed, tube header and turnbuckles, well and engine mounts and a better engine. for a complete newbie the rtr 3 may be a better choice.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
updated pics with hotbodies centerforce clutch installed on a sirio outlaw....
motor.http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/189343_6868420517238165516_vl.jpghttp://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/189344_537123851072723737_vl.jpg HEY KRONIC THATS A GOOD JOB YOU DOING ON THAT CAR.

[hpi#1]

um, dude thast a .12

[sebtarta]

Hi I was wondering if Hitec servos work with Futaba receivers. If so great, if not which other brand of servos work with Futaba, besides JR.???
Good luck, :)

[jjl]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
No way screw that don't get no AE pipe....

Get the THS pipe for this car. I use it on my car.. I had it 75% of the runs on my rs4 with the ss engine and it was awesome.. Now its on my fan15 (not run yet).. But ide go with the THS pipe (or rtd logics or something like that, either way both the same)..... Its 50 and its worth all of it.. I was using a CVEC what a waste of TIME that was. week later i went and bought the tHS. Now the cvec sits in my box with broken tips.. but the rest is fine.. Any one want it for 17.00 shipped???


1


Ide go with the THS pipe

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

Shawn, does the THS pipe fit onto the Type SS's .12 stock engine (the one that comes with the Type SS kit.) I thought the THS pipe's header only fit .15 engines. Also, do you have a problem with the header's screws coming loose? that used to be a problem on my old rs4 2's header, i definitely prefer the spring and hook type attachment.

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by jjl
Shawn, does the THS pipe fit onto the Type SS's .12 stock engine (the one that comes with the Type SS kit.) I thought the THS pipe's header only fit .15 engines. Also, do you have a problem with the header's screws coming loose? that used to be a problem on my old rs4 2's header, i definitely prefer the spring and hook type attachment.


The pipe works fine with the ss engine, i have it installed in mine. Work great and makes the engine work perfect.
Good luck, :)

[hpi#1]

yea i think the size for headers of .12, .15, 18 is standard. it will work.

[shawnhpi]

Yes the THS pipe and header will work on the ss 12 thats what i had it on originaly.....

[jjl]

what about the header screws coming loose? I see you have nuts on the screws to keep them in, that didn't always work with my old rs4 2. those screws would constantly come loose, which drove me crazy.

BTW, I'm running an MTX-2 now, only considering the Type SS since i'm only bashing, not racing. Also considering a NTC3, but may stick with my mtx-2. If HPI came out with a full-option kit, i'd be more interested. At this point i would want to upgrade the chassis, top deck, tires, air filter, and pipe, which is essentially the entire car.

[hpi#1]

well my screw didn't come loose. once they did but i tightened them good and they were fine after that. try getting some new hex screws. i stripped my old ones so i got some DU-BRO hardened steel hex screws, you will be able to torque those good wiht an allen key and they wont strip.

[JFawwaz]

double post sorry

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by jjl
what about the header screws coming loose? I see you have nuts on the screws to keep them in, that didn't always work with my old rs4 2. those screws would constantly come loose, which drove me crazy.

BTW, I'm running an MTX-2 now, only considering the Type SS since i'm only bashing, not racing. Also considering a NTC3, but may stick with my mtx-2. If HPI came out with a full-option kit, i'd be more interested. At this point i would want to upgrade the chassis, top deck, tires, air filter, and pipe, which is essentially the entire car.

Did you put thread-lock on the header screws?
Just buy those option parts and then buy the drivetrain stuff and suspension stuff off tower or buy a used kit on ebay. Use the instructions for the SS on hpi's site to build it.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by jjl
Shawn, does the THS pipe fit onto the Type SS's .12 stock engine (the one that comes with the Type SS kit.) I thought the THS pipe's header only fit .15 engines. Also, do you have a problem with the header's screws coming loose? that used to be a problem on my old rs4 2's header, i definitely prefer the spring and hook type attachment. THS PIPE FOR THE RTR-3 ONE PIECE. TOWER HOBBIES has them in stock.

[shawnhpi]

If the header screws get stripped in the header,, go get some nuts that fit it and use thoes....
\
here is a pic\\


my car will be goin on ebay tonight



http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

[jjl]

i tried the nuts solution, didn't always work. sticking with the mtx-2 for now, i'm sick of buying cars that need to be hopped-up head to toe. why are you selling your car shawn? what are you going to get?

[hpi#1]

[hardyboy]

I need some suggestions as to what tyres would be best suited for me.

I live in the Caribbean where we race on a new asphalt parking lot. The temerature during the day hovers around 32-34deg C all year long. There are some small stones on the parking lot but we try to blow that off with a blower.

I'm looking to get 26mm rims. What tyres would you recommend??

[shawnhpi]

Nah stick to the standard TC size (what is it 24 i think)

I use slicks on the track i was racing on.. Made by a company called talke off tires.. They come pre mounted and in all different compounds.. I use 27gl and was sticking good.

Do not use the stock rs4 3 tires as you will be done racing after a few laps.

They SUCK..

[RCRACER2471]

what do u guyz use for gearing on your 2 speed?? I need higher top end

[japriljr]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
what do u guyz use for gearing on your 2 speed?? I need higher top end

Amen to that!!!! The top end SUCKS on this car. I get ran over on the strait of my local track all the time, once by a T-Max and anther by an electric car:mad: The only option I have found is a new pinion gear, but the only one they make is a whopping 1 tooth difference.

[hpi#1]

use the RED 23 tooth pinion gear for your second gear for more top end

[japriljr]

Originally posted by hpi#1
use the RED 23 tooth pinion gear for your second gear for more top end

WooHoo!!! 1 extra tooth!!:rolleyes: At least you didn't tell us to cut our front dif spring:p

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by hpi#1
use the RED 23 tooth pinion gear for your second gear for more top end THESE GEARS HAVE TO MESH RIGHT. SO DONT WE NEED THE FIRST ALSO.OR USE THE SAME ONE.THERE NO 26/28/OR WHAT BIGGEST COMBO SPUR TOO.

[japriljr]

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
THESE GEARS HAVE TO MESH RIGHT. SO DONT WE NEED THE FIRST ALSO.OR USE THE SAME ONE.

They are all the same diameter so the number of teeth doesn't matter.

[japriljr]

I believe 23 is the biggest pinion and 43 is the smallest spur I have found

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by japriljr
They are all the same diameter so the number of teeth doesn't matter.

this is correct you can mix and match and pinion gears with no meshing problems.

[hardyboy]

Shawnhpi, everyone else,

What are the advantages and disadvantages of 24mm and 26mm size wheels? Also, what did the type SS come with? I tried to find out but it does not say in the instructions!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by japriljr
WooHoo!!! 1 extra tooth!!:rolleyes: At least you didn't tell us to cut our front dif spring:p

ROFLMAO:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Shawnhpi, everyone else,

What are the advantages and disadvantages of 24mm and 26mm size wheels? Also, what did the type SS come with? I tried to find out but it does not say in the instructions!

the ss comes with 26mm.

[hardyboy]

KronicRacer,

So which is better 24 or 26mm wheels???:confused:

[hardyboy]

Guys,

If I buy tyres that state they are for 24mm wheels...can I use them on 26mm wheels?

[shawnhpi]

My mistake

Both 26 and 24 are fine.. 26 are more for nitro cars and 24 are more for electrc cars.. Its all on you. what you wnat to run. You gonna have to test both sets. Start with 24..

Seems to be i run 24's (take offs) So it realy don't matter. get a set of both.. and test it out..

Or you can get some 32's for show.. I will be..

Well i might depends on if my car sells...

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

[RCRACER2471]

As much as i would want to test them it cost $5 a gear for the aluminum ones and another $3 for the spurs. I need to know exactly what setting so i dont end up having parts i dont need

[PorscheG96]

Hey, have any of you guys installed the a209 sway bars on your SS? The front bars go on fine but the rear has too much side-to-side play...somewhere in the order of 1/4". The rear bar isn't doing anything to tighten up the back of the car so either I've got it installed incorrectly [which isn't really possible] or the sway bar is sub-par. The sway bar kit comes with two screws to keep the rear bar in place but I don't see where these screws can be used on the SS...the rear end is different. Their instructions are pretty vague. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by japriljr
WooHoo!!! 1 extra tooth!!:rolleyes: At least you didn't tell us to cut our front dif spring:p


dude shut up. i was trying to help. and one tooth can make the diffrenece in top end so that he could achcieve the top end he wanted . and so what if i sed cut the front diff spring in the past. it DUZ help ALOT. so i suggest u screw off.

[RCRACER2471]

I dont know why everyone gives HPI #1 such a bad time. He hasnt done anything wrong. You people really need to grow up here. This aint some kiddie forum, its an R/C Forum.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
I dont know why everyone gives HPI #1 such a bad time. He hasnt done anything wrong. You people really need to grow up here. This aint some kiddie forum, its an R/C Forum.

HPI #1 which gear would i have to replace the 22 or the 18???

Thank-You. You're right i havn't done anything wrong. Seriously out of no where people start hating on me for absolutely no reason. This forum was good, and recently theres a bunch of idiots screwing up the forum. If you're not going to help people who need it or use the forum for what it's made for, dont use it at all. RCRACER2471, you are one of the few people left that isn't a complete idiot and doesn't act like you know ererything when they don't (NOT saying you don't know anything).

Anyways, if you are going for more top end, use th red 23 pinion gears. this replaces the 22.

u got any pics of your car?

[tl_ke_racer]

geez havent been on here lately geez they are rippin on you hpi #1, anyways my rally stuff is gettin here today mayeb this weekend i will get soem pics up of my rs4 3 rally conversion.

[hpi#1]

cool. maybe some in action pics too.

yea especially in that one thread in the nitro fourm about posting pictures. poeple getting mad at me when i didn do anything and it wasnt my fault.

[shawnhpi]

yeah stop pickin on hpi#1....

[oN_dUbZ]

yeah hpi#1 is kewl. I was a COMEPLETE newbie, and he helped me out alot with those gears. I know ALOT more about Nitro thanx to him. GJ hpi

[hardyboy]

What are the best shocks to buy for the RS4 Type SS??

Also, which are better, the HPI threaded aluminium shocks or the HPI Super Shock set??

[tl_ke_racer]

here is the first pic of my rally.

[tl_ke_racer]

2nd

[tl_ke_racer]

3rd

[tl_ke_racer]

4th

[tl_ke_racer]

last one :D

[SykoBMW]

Anyone know how long it takes to get parts in at hobby shops for these? Nothing hurts more than hitting a curb at almost full speed...

[DOHCrazy]

tl_ke_racer - The first thing you need to get now is a Motorsavers Air filter..runin on dirst will eat that filter up fast...

[tl_ke_racer]

yeah i knwo liek after 3 runs i will have to clean the filter. im gonan run my rally tomorrow i will let u guys know how it does, should do good i talked to soemone who races teh supernitro rally and they said it should do good becuase its like a 1/10th scale super nitro rally.

[hpi#1]

i think a 2 stage air filer would be a better choice. like foam and paper air filter. btw, car looks good.

[tl_ke_racer]

i have ran it a few times today this thing can jump and go offroading good if u wanna rally this will work perfectly seems to rally the same if not better then my old electric rs4 rally.

[johnybravo129]

Anyone know what all I would have to change on my RS4 3 to make into a rally car? I know I'd need larger shocks and prolly a arms, but what kinda, size, and where can I get them?! Please help, I want a rally car :p

[JFawwaz]

nm...

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
4th

what wheels are those?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
What are the best shocks to buy for the RS4 Type SS??

Also, which are better, the HPI threaded aluminium shocks or the HPI Super Shock set??

threaded aluminum

[tl_ke_racer]

ok bravo u wont need new arms u will need shocks, turnbuckles,rally body, and tires and u know the pplastic thing that is connected to the hubs and what holds the wheels on the side of it u will see a plastic thing that restricts that piece from moving in so that u cant move teh arm down further without the wheels sticken out, cut that piece off, this is on the front i forgot to say that, and once u do that install everything and u will be set thats all i did and my rally is kick A**

[tl_ke_racer]

the wheels i am using are hpi 6-spoke (white), and the tread si tamiya rally blocks, they are better then hpi's and u cna acutally run them on street without the tread wearing they last forever.

[japriljr]

:eek:

[japriljr]

Looks sweet! All you need know is a WRX body;)

HPI#1, I didn't mean to hurt your feelings, it was just a little ribbing. Maybe you guys should go back and read his replies! Its all about the diff spring!:D I did actually cut my diff spring by the way and it made no noticable difference:p

[hpi#1]

my replies arn't all about diff springs. there was one "section" where there was a guy asking about it, so ya of course im gonna be talking about it. and it made a heck of a difference for me. maybe u wern't paying close attention. it even makes sense that shortenign the diff spring imporve handling. on the hpi faq/forum they even say softer diff springs iprve handling.

[tl_ke_racer]

i do got a wrx body look on teh page before this one i got the lancer body.

[default_uzer]

I am looking into a nitro RS4 3 SS. Besides the engine what are the differences between it and the RS4 3? Is the SS engine pretty weak? Nice to see everyone getting along!!

[RCRACER2471]

One thing i can tell you is that the SS engine is alot better than the stock .fe on the RS4 3. The differencebetween the two:

1. RS4 3 has .15fe and RS4 SS has .12R SS.
2. RS4 SS has turnbuckles, RS4 3 does not.
3. RS4 SS has 2 speed included, RS4 3 does not.
4. RS4 SS has tube header, RS4 has a stock cheesy one.
5. RS4 SS is in kit form, RS4 3 is in rtr form.

[default_uzer]

thanks for your info!! I believe I will go with the SS!

[hpi#1]

dont forget. the rtr 3 comes with a transmitter and servos and reciever. the SS doesn't.

[RCRACER2471]

Thanks HPI #1, forgot to mention that!!! :p

[kojak61]

Anyone running Ball diffs? How are you running them? How tight or lose? Tighter in the front or in the back?

[shawnhpi]

Sorry to do this all

but

3111094050 ebay item number..

I hade to ,, just to mostly, but i am buidling a nice audio system in my real car..

[hpi#1]

is there even a ball diff for the nitro 3?

[hpi#1]

[tyler07]

...does anyone here have their type ss hooked up for asphalt racing with foams?...i want to try this setup at a local track, and i's like to see if someone has a good starting point for spring rates, damping, camber, shore ratings, and all that stuff....

thanks!:cool:

[hpi#1]

for a pic of my car. go to the nitro forum and clcik on RS4 3's HERE.

[rico750sxi]

tl_ke_racer, good job on the rally conversion. What parts did you need to do it? I'm sure you posted it before but could you give me a list again please? Thanks.

I don't know why hpi#1 is getting ripped on either. He helped me too when I first got my rs4 3.

[tl_ke_racer]

alls i got and they are required for rallying are the turnbuckles rally rims tires 2 sets of 2 a rally body and e-rally shocks, and on the front uprights i had to get a razor blade and cut a little plastic piece off so that when the front suspension arms go down the tires dont stick out, it was a very easy conversion, this thing can offroad to i was jumpin and powersliden all over my back yard its a lot of fun.

[warden141]

RS4 to Rally conversion

this is per HPI's forum

ive not done it -but considering - any comments on accuracy of thier list

Our shaft drive nitro cars can be raised up using longer shocks so that they can be driven off-road. I wouldn't suggest doing that with a belt drive car because rocks will damage the belts.
Here is a list of parts needed to make an RTR 3 in to a Nitro Rally:

4470 HPI Rally Tire M Compoud
6737 HPI Spring 13x40x1.1mm Green
6809 HPI Shock Shaft 3x36mm
a450 HPI Nitro RS4 Suspension Arm Set
a460 HPI RS4 Upright Set
a542 HPI RS4 Shock Body Set
a721 HPI Super Shock Set 50-66mm

HPI link (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=59059)

[japriljr]

Originally posted by tyler07
...does anyone here have their type ss hooked up for asphalt racing with foams?...i want to try this setup at a local track, and i's like to see if someone has a good starting point for spring rates, damping, camber, shore ratings, and all that stuff....

thanks!:cool:
I have Green springs in the front and black in the rear. Jaco Nitro Shoes foams 50 front and 40 rear. Purple sway bars front and rear. 50 weight for the front and 30 in the rear. 2 degrees front and rear for camber. Our track is really sticky. Hope that helps. I have everything set-up for "high grip surfaces" as detailed in the back of the manual.

[PorscheG96]

Originally posted by japriljr
I have Green springs in the front and black in the rear. Jaco Nitro Shoes foams 50 front and 40 rear. Purple sway bars front and rear. 50 weight for the front and 30 in the rear. 2 degrees front and rear for camber. Our track is really sticky. Hope that helps. I have everything set-up for "high grip surfaces" as detailed in the back of the manual.
Do you know what the stock SS spring rates and shock oil weight are? Ever since I installed the sway bars I've got nasty understeer with the stock shocks/springs and high grip suspension settings except for reduced front castor.

Narrow [red] bar in front, thick [purple] bar in the rear. 1/16th spacers on front springs, 1/8th spacers on rear springs.

What are the rates of the black and green springs you're running?

Thanks!

[tyler07]

...the stock setup is fairly middle of the road, i think 30 wt oil for damping also, which seems soft to me...if you're still running the stock tires, thats the first thing to change, especially if you're running on concrete (which isnt very high traction)...you should only use sway bars if you're running on high traction surfaces generally, because they prevent chassis roll, and some chassis roll is how you put more pressure on the outside tires to stick better....but if you dont use sway bars and your sticking great to the track surface, you could traction roll...

i think sway bars are something you should really only play with after you've got the rest pretty well setup for whatever condidtions you're running in....

Also, check you're toe-in. Too much toe-in can cause understeer. Toe-out helps steering response quite a bit, but it can make the car very twitchy at speed...its all a balancing act...

As for spring rates, im not sure of the numbers, but hpi has a chart on their website that shows all their springs...it may have compressive measurements for each color...

[tyler07]

oh yeah, thanks to japriljr for the setup info, ill give it a shot...

[japriljr]

The black springs are the stock ones and the greens are one step stiffer. Does your track spray the track with sugar water or any other traction aide? I was running the stock rubber tires and they would pick up all that stuff they sprayed on the track. After 1 tank my car would not stick for crap and it was almost to the point that it wouldn't turn. If I use rubber tires, I clean them with Simple Green after every tank. PIA! Foams are the way to go!

[tl_ke_racer]

what hpi says is "required for the rally" isnt true they say to use the super nitro susp. arms that is dumb having your wheels stick way outta your body not good, mine handles just fine and doesnt roll with the nrs43 arms, another thing is to use the hpi m compound or whatever those rally tires suck one run on the road and they are worn away get tamiya rally block tires they are better for offroad and wont wear out goign onroading i know becuase i use them! another thing is they say to use the super shocks, just get the normal rs4 rally shocks, the super ones are 30 bucks for 2 shocks its easy to tell hpi just wants to make money off ignorant beginners, i have listed what parts u need for the conversion, my rs4 3 rally works perfect for on and offroading, dont listen to hpi they list the required parts and then some.

[racer234]

hi everyone! i am savin up for an HPI RS4 RTR 3, so i posted a topic about it vs. the Hot Bodies Tornado. Well anyways I want to verify that it's a good car and that I'm not wasting my money. I'm on a limited budget so I though that would be a good car to get. So what do you think? Thanks a lot!!

[tmaxx_1]

hi just wanted to say that i have the rs4 3 ss and i think it is worth the money. i like this kit and the replacement parts are cheap ,most plastic parts are only 5 dollars.

[RCRACER2471]

racer234, definatly worth it as i posted on the other nitro thread. Great beginnner and bashing car for a great price. Will let you get into nitro easily and love it for life!!

Everyone else, my friend said that theres a way of converting the RS4 into a NMT buy getting longer suspension arms, shocks and so on... Has anyone tried this or know that its possible. I have the money and if its not too expensive i just might do it!!! Thanx

[hpi#1]

the RS4 3 is a GREAT, durable, reliable car. definetly worth it.

[shinigami579]

i've been into nitro cars for a while. i'm not an expert but am somewhat knowledgeble. Anyway I want to build a RS4 3 from scratch. I decided this because i wanted to hop up a RS4 3 but rather then by a kit then replace most of the parts to save money. Anyways I want to make it all aluminum, graphite, and titanium if possible. I also want it to go 70 mph if possible or close to it. I want it to have the best parts and for it to be strong, sturdy, fast. Any parts that will improve perforance I want, such as boost bottles. Anyways can anyone tell me all the parts I would need for this type of car? How much would it cost? And can you provide links to the parts and prices if possible?

[oN_dUbZ]

hey wass up guys, havent posted in a while because i JUST got my RTR3 in the mail. I painted my Lamborghini body Bright red, used some O'Donnell fuel and broke the engine in, MAN THIS THING IS A FREAKIN BLAST!!!!>! How can anyone go wrong with this car, im telling u. I was a complete NEWBIE...and well now im JUST a newbie but i gotta tell u(for anyone thinkin about or buying a car) this is a great car put together by HPI. Im gonna have so much fun after i start hopp-in this puppy up. can i get a A'men is this here....haha

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shinigami579
i've been into nitro cars for a while. i'm not an expert but am somewhat knowledgeble. Anyway I want to build a RS4 3 from scratch. I decided this because i wanted to hop up a RS4 3 but rather then by a kit then replace most of the parts to save money. Anyways I want to make it all aluminum, graphite, and titanium if possible. I also want it to go 70 mph if possible or close to it. I want it to have the best parts and for it to be strong, sturdy, fast. Any parts that will improve perforance I want, such as boost bottles. Anyways can anyone tell me all the parts I would need for this type of car? How much would it cost? And can you provide links to the parts and prices if possible?



cant help u on the 70 mph but .... as far as upgrading go with all the hotbodies option parts. shock towers(40), upperdeck(25), bumper brace(15), aluminum rear knuckles(20), steering rack(15)front c hubs(20) front steering knuckles(20), cvd's(40), center bulkhead(45), aluminum brake lever(15), dual disc brake(40), centax clutch(80) (you wont be able to use the hpi colored gears and you need a sg shaft motor) another thing to get would be the HPI superchassis, very solid race chassie(80), aluminum threaded shocks(72), sway bar kit(20) and non primer racer tank(20), Associated springs(10), Lunsford ti tunbuckles(30), rpm (blue) rod ends(15). HG aluminum rims(50). Wolfpack radical 2shoe 2 speed speed(60), motor mounts (25) motor non ps (150)
temp gauge(36) starter box(80) failsafe (30) header/pipe can range from (50-100). trinity shock oils(10) and elligi foams(30) and/or jaco shoes(40).

the last thing you would need is the diff assemblies which i got 35 a piece completely assembled

most stuff i found on ebay and my lhs. the wolfpack stuff i got from www.wolfpackradicals.com . you'll be able to find the hotbodies stuff at www.meganitro.com . if you have any more questions u can reach me on aim: kronicracer s/n
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/189344_537123851072723737_vl.jpg

[hpi#1]

kronic racer, i think u might want to get a slide carb. linkage set, unless u already have gotten one.

[KronicRacer]

i have the slide carb linkage, but its not installed yet. the motor is on my tc3 at the moment.

[shawnhpi]

Kron man nice car..... Im still waitin to order my clutch 2 speed, and thing about gettin all CVDS now to...


http://members.aol.com/oxxshawnxxo/t17.jpg

[RCRACER2471]

Where did u guys get the carbon upper deck. Ive been lookin for places and cant find any......

[kojak61]

Ball Diffs for the nitro mt, will fit rs4 3. Still need help with setup though. Car seems to more of a handfull now.

[jr97]

I purchased one of these for my son for Christmas, great car. So I decided to get one for myself. I've been trying now for two days to get it started. I've replaced the glow plug, made sure it wasn't flooded, all the basic stuff. Any suggestions?:mad:

[RCRACER2471]

Check you manual on page 14 and look at TRoubleshooting. Did u look at all of these possible causes. Otherwise you can reset your mixture screws back to factory settings and start from there. Cant hurt....

[hpi#1]

check ur fuel mixture setting, idle setting, engine flooded, not primed enough or maybe ur glow plug igniter isn't chraged.

[supra528]

ok... i got a question on ride hight... i have hot bodies cf shock towers and hb alm. a-arms, hpi threaded alm. shocks and hpi progressive springs..... i just finished putting the new sirio on and the car is so so close to being done and road ready.... but the ride hight is a bit high and i was wondering if there would be a way to lower the car down more... btw, im using the blue shocks in the back that came wit the alm. ones but in the rear, its the stock shocks.... could someone please help me out hear???


mike

[Drastika]

i just got the hpi 2 speed and i had alot of trouble getting the 47t gean on the axle, the paper says its a one way bearing, should it spin. the small gear spinson the axle, anyway when i rev the engine up the big gea grinds when it goes to ship, how do i shovel this problem

[hpi#1]

supra, i think ur the one that PMed me. i PMed you back so check ur little PM thingy. the ride hieght too high?? well set the threaded as low as possible. and i guess so you can adjsut the rear get threaded shock for the rear also. if its still to high i guess urgonna have to cut a bit off the springs so the shock will compress more. but i think the threaded shovk at their lowest setting will be low enough.

[supra528]

yeah.. kk... i think ill leave it as is.... just at first it looked kinda weird... wha ever.. should do:D

mike

[supra528]

btw, i didnt pm u and u didnt pm me so... yeah... hope the frickin weather stays like it did today here in toronto!!!! ill break in the new sirio soon if it does :D:D:D:D:D:D

[supra528]

ok BIG prob... im usin the stock flywheel on my sirio and dont worry about the mounts.. its all fine but the flywheel rubs against one of the nuts on the hb brake asembly.. it is the vented one... can someone help me??? please??

[supra528]

ok.. for all u guys out there wit sirios or rb turbos on there nitro 3's, or any rear exaust threaded shaft engine, what flywheel and collet did you guys use????

mike

[fastharry]

I have an(NPS) RB turbo on mine ..I used a Robinson racing flywheel,the STOCK pull start motor mounts,and the stock collet....

[supra528]

did you use the ps or non ps rrp flywheel???

[supra528]

also, would the hpi 5X7 collet work on the hpi lightweight flywheel non ps???? ah!!!! this is like soooo pissing me off!!!

[Drastika]

i just got the hpi 2 speed and i had alot of trouble getting the 47t gean on the axle, the paper says its a one way bearing, should it spin. the small gear spinson the axle, anyway when i rev the engine up the big gea grinds when it goes to ship, how do i shovel this problem

[fastharry]

Originally posted by supra528
did you use the ps or non ps rrp flywheel???

i used the robinson pull start flywheel....

the reason I went with the higher engine position,even though I have a NON pull start engine?....

the SS's roll center and roll moment were designed for a pull start engine.....(height wise)....

[supra528]

but i tryed using the stock flywheel and it rubs against a nut thats part of the brake assembly... did this happen to you??

mike

[fastharry]

Supra..what nut are you talking about?....I'm looking at my car...the flywheel is a little close to the brake disc,but tahts about it..

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by supra528
btw, i didnt pm u and u didnt pm me so... yeah... hope the frickin weather stays like it did today here in toronto!!!! ill break in the new sirio soon if it does :D:D:D:D:D:D

woh what a coincidence, the guy i PMed, his forum name is very similar and he's from ontario aslo.

I'M ALSO FOROM TORONTO! ur right i do hope the weather stays like it is also but it saspsoed to drop below 0 for 2 days or sumthing. another coicnidence, im hoping it will warm up enough so i can break in my new enigne (novarossi cx 12) also. when it hits 10 degrees im gonna break it in and use a hair drier incase it gets too cold. o ya, btw do you know of any indoor nitro tracks in Toronto? and if you have MSN add me, pyromaniac_6@hotmail.com

[supra528]

and will that flywheel work with the 5X7 collet from hpi???

[supra528]

nvm about the brake thing... im usin the stock flywheel which is 2mm bigger in diameter than the rrp one so i think ill get the rrp one and ill finally be done!!!

mike

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys. I've ran about 6-7 tanks through my new RTR3. So far i broke the fuel tubing and my air filter needs to be cleaned and oiled, and i installed my 2-speed but i need threadlock.

Here are my parts and etc im going to order tomorrow:

Motor Savers 10mm Strate base Air Filter
K&N Air Filter Recharger Kit

Hangar 9 Fuel Filter
Dynamite Fuel Tubing

HPI Turnbuckles Kit
HPI Threaded Pinion Gear Yellow 17T
OS Glow Plugs (SPARE) #a5 and #a3
THS Racing Tuned Pipe RTR-3 One piece

Piston Locker
HPI Racing Clutch
HPI Lightweight Flywheel

Pacer Threadlocker
Pacer After Run Oil
Grease


You guys have any comments or suggestions on these or other items that I should buy please enclose them.

thanx all

[MACH 5]

Hi All,
First time poster, but I've been lurking on this thread for months. I finally have some time to sit down and concentrate on putting my SS together. I've built electics in the past, but my first nitro was an RTR kit so this will be my first nitro kit. Does anyone have a comprehensive list of all the helpful tips and tricks that will make sure I do it right the first time?

Also, a lot has been made of HPI#1's tip to shorten the diff spring. Is there another way to do this without cutting my spring? Perhaps an option part through HPI that is already shortened?

Thanks in advance!
Jason

[hpi#1]

yes, you can buy the HPI Nitro 3 gear diff spring set. comes with different tensiosn of springs.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
hey guys. I've ran about 6-7 tanks through my new RTR3. So far i broke the fuel tubing and my air filter needs to be cleaned and oiled, and i installed my 2-speed but i need threadlock.

Here are my parts and etc im going to order tomorrow:

Motor Savers 10mm Strate base Air Filter
K&N Air Filter Recharger Kit

Hangar 9 Fuel Filter
Dynamite Fuel Tubing

HPI Turnbuckles Kit
HPI Threaded Pinion Gear Yellow 17T
OS Glow Plugs (SPARE) #a5 and #a3
THS Racing Tuned Pipe RTR-3 One piece

Piston Locker
HPI Racing Clutch
HPI Lightweight Flywheel

Pacer Threadlocker
Pacer After Run Oil
Grease


You guys have any comments or suggestions on these or other items that I should buy please enclose them.

thanx all

Hey, its me. instaed of the k&n kit, jsut get some regualr air filter oil. when you get a new filter, it shoudl come with oil anyways (but motor savers dont. i dont recomend those filters anywyas. you dotn realy need a piston locking tool. i have tooken of my flywheel lots of times wiht out a piston locking too. evrytyhing else sounds good. talk to me on MSn for some more help. o ya and a3 and a5 is a bit too cold. O.S #8's work well. but if you want the better ones get the A8

[supra528]

so will that rrp ps flywheel work wit the hpi 5X7 collet????


mike

[hpi#1]

on my car, with my cx 12, i used the collet that came with it and the stock flywheel. fits on perfect

[supra528]

hmmmm... did u have the ss??? cuz i had the fe in mine and that collet doesnt fit on to the sirio.... hmmm.... r the two collets any diff???? i mean the stock one on the fe and the one on the ss???

[rico750sxi]

Okay guys, I need some help!! The weather is finally been good enough for me to run my rtr3 outside and start breaking it in a bit. The problem is that I can't keep the car running after doing a little speed burst. As soon as I let off the throttle the cat will die. I thought it was because I was so rich due to breaking it in but as I lean it out it doesn't seem to be getting better. I went back through the throttle linkage to make sure it was closing too far or anything like that. To me it seems like it's too rich still but I've leaned it out quite a bit, I'm at two full turns out counter-clockwise from all the way in. Or 1 turn in clockwise from hpi's starting point. Should I just keep leaning it out? It's still spitting out a good amount of fuel from the exhaust and it still smokes during a full throttle burst. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

[tl_ke_racer]

set your idle stop screw, and make srue the carb is shut to 10mm liek in the book.

[japriljr]

Originally posted by MACH 5
Also, a lot has been made of HPI#1's tip to shorten the diff spring. Is there another way to do this without cutting my spring? Perhaps an option part through HPI that is already shortened?

Thanks in advance!
Jason
Don't worry about the diff spring! It makes no difference. The manual does any excellent job as far as covering stuff.

[hpi#1]

omg, this guy will never learn. i throughly exlained how softer/shorted diff spring helps. also it makes complete sense if you have half a brain. and on top of all of that even HPI says that softer diff springs improve handling. when is this guy gonna realize it. like i thorughly explained what happens and how it would help wiht a softer diff spring, so how could you argue wiht that, or all of the above? sorry to sound rude but this is getten anoying. like jeese i know what im talking about, it make sense, and HPI people them selves have sed it helps, i prove my point well so ther eis no point in opossing. and oh ya, i noticed a great improvment.


all that being sed which is not oposable because of well, what i sed and all of the "proof", obviously it duz help. im saying this for last time cuz this is getting annoying, waisting my time and i know im right.

PLUS HERE IS A LINK, even more proof.

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=59631


i tihnk i have prooved my self to be right


shorten the diff spring or by the set with the spriings and use the softest one. it help alot. if you wanna knwo how, i explained like 3 times a couple pages back. you will not be disapointed with the improvment.


EDITED

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by MACH 5


Also, a lot has been made of HPI#1's tip to shorten the diff spring. Is there another way to do this without cutting my spring? Perhaps an option part through HPI that is already shortened?

Thanks in advance!
Jason

get the hpi diff spring set. part number 72215 same results without cutting.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/72215.jpg

[hpi#1]

ya, get that kit and use the softest one, as sed previosuly above. also greasing the diff helps alot.

[warden141]

High Grip (front)Gold (back) Black Improved cornering, accleration,
more traction, higher grip.
(f)Gold (b) Silver More stability and rear traction.

Low Grip (f)Black (b)Silver Improved accleration, more
traction, higher grip
(f)Black (b)------ More stability and rear
traction.
Parking Lot (f) Silver (b) Silver Improved accleration, higher grip
(f)Silver (b) ------ More stability and rear
traction.

[hpi#1]

dbl post

[hpi#1]

another thing to what i sed about greasing the diff helping. when you get grease make sure it isnt thick. the grease i bought was thick and when i greased the diff it would turn on a dime for a tank and then ware off. i found that becaus e the grease was so thick it would get forced of the gears and on to the diff case when the gears mesh while runnig the car. so if you use a lgihter wieghtn diff grease the grease should be able to stay on the geasr with out being forced off. so, if you use a softer diff spring, or jsut shorten the stock one by 1.5-2 coils and grease the diff with some light wieght grease, ur rs4 3 will handle i'd say about 40% better, maybe even as good or even better than the oh so mighty, king of handling NTC3. :p trust me, it DUZ help.

[Electrofied]

For the first time i am wanting to play around with the RS4 Nitro Type SS' gear ratios for more top end speed but retain some good take off.
I had a NTC3 but never messed with the gearing.
I have read the gearing posts here pages 23-28 or so but I am a bit confused. DOAH!:confused:
I have the HPI Racing Clutch and a THS pipe and header combo... I.E. short of installing a Conley AVM I am getting as much power from the .12SS as possible.
My questions are below:
[list=1]
Is there any benefit to using the Wolfpack 2-speed setup?
Which pinions and spurs would I use to attain the highest top speed while maintaining good take-off as well as a nice shift point where the powerband does not drop off much? I.E. keeping the RPMS in the groove???
Am I correct in thinking the more teeth on the pinions and the less teeth on the spurs will increase top end speed? Granted the engine can produce enough power...
What options do I have for the rear differential?
Is ther any taller gearing available for the front and rear diffs?
[/list=1]

You can respond by either posting or e-mail me at electrofied@hotmail.com

Thank you,
Electrofied

[supra528]

has anyone seen the thing for the new nitro R40???? i still think that the nitro 3 can be just as could if its totally upgraded.....


mike

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by supra528
has anyone seen the thing for the new nitro R40???? i still think that the nitro 3 can be just as could if its totally upgraded.....


mike

only if you have the tiem and money to do all of this:

The Nitro 3 Type SS is certainly able to handle racing duties in the hands of any good driver. Try these tips (from our designers and team drivers) and suggested parts to make your Nitro 3 Type SS fully "Ready To Race":

Qty. Part

1 73056 Graphite Upper Deck Set (note that at the time of this writing we have not released this part yet)
1 73047 Front Shock Tower
1 73048 Rear Shock Tower
1 76979 19T Pinion
1 76983 23T Pinion
1 A445 39T Spur Adapter Type
1 76843 43T Spur (Std. Type SS Part)
2 72423 Composite Threaded Shock Set
4 6817 Shock Parts Set (Self Lubricating Material, also less play)
1 72228 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set w/ Brace
1 73914 Super Chassis
1 Z543 Cap Head Screw Set M3x8 (For Droop Limiting in Arms)
1 A885 Racing Clutch
1 Z679 Aluminum Wheel Nuts
1 A844 Fiber Brake Disk
1 72111 Shim Set
1 72525 Racing Fuel Tank (Better Fuel Line Routing)
1 72036 Hex Clamp Hubs
2 A301 Ball Ends 4.3 x 12.5mm (8 pcs. Per package)
1 A318 Rod Ends 5.8 x 18mm (For Ackerman Link)
1 A132 Flanged Ball (For Ackerman Link
1 Z569 (For Ackerman Link)
1 72112 Firm Shock Bladders
1 72109 Pro 3 Turnbuckle Set (need the 7 M3x24 Turnbuckles, 4 upper links, 2 steering rods, 1 Ackerman link)
1 M3x34mm Ti. Turnbuckle (For Steering Servo Linkage)
1 A371 Body Post Set
2 A958 Ball Diff Sets


Use 2 A318 ends, 2 A132 balls, an M3x24mm turnbuckle (from 72109), and 2 Z569 to make an Ackerman link to replace the A396-4 linkage. Try setting the linkage 1mm longer than standard with about 0.5 degrees of front toe out (shorter steering rods).
Use A301’s for all other links, M3x24 turnbuckles for everything except steering servo link...

Tips:
1. Remove front upright material to allow more front droop. See step 10 from link below:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/i...nr%20update.jpg
2. Use Z543 screws to limit droop or set it equally from side-to-side.
3. Try using 51063 Proceed Rear Spring for the front shocks with about 50-70 weight oil. Use whatever shock length is necessary to attain desired droop settings
4. Some material may need to be removed from the center bulkhead with this gear ratio (43/19, 39/23). Try different pinions at the track for fine tuning. Don’t be afraid to use the 6 tooth jump (i.e. 17 to 23). It can yield surprising results with the right engine.
5. Remove the rollbar to save weight and reduce C of G.
6. Dremel the lower part of the mounting ears on the 72525 tank to lower the tank further, use 6823 O-rings if possible, or use thin slices of fuel tubing to lower it further, yet keep it free from vibration.
7. Use a 5x1 configuration Rx pack with the 73056 upper deck set.
8. Dremel out the top of the center gearbox top cover to reduce weight.
9. Use optional outside body mount locations with A371 body posts (see rear shock tower instructions) to reduce weight.
10. If using Ball Diffs, use optional carbide diff balls and Associated Stealth Diff Lube.
11. Use the “super glue trick” to remove any slop in the ball ends or rod ends. Alternatively, you can use some leftover parts bags stretched over the balls to reduce play also (between the ball and the ball cup. Use shims to reduce play in the suspension if found.
12. Set ride height as low as possible without excessive bottoming. (4~6 mm). If the surface is bumpy, increase ride height and droop.
13. Use shorter upper links (via link locations) when using foam tires (more camber gain), also use more camber with foams (1-3 degrees, or whatever it takes to get even wear).


good luck

[fastharry]

now let me get this straight..


HPI says the Rs4 3's SS ARE NOT intended to be race cars....

HPI says they are coming out with a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT style car to compete as a TOP LEVEL pro car...


and you think that dumping hundreds of dollars into a car that NO ONE has said even comes close to resembling a race car(EVEN HPI THEMSELVES).....and you'll have the same pro style car...

gentlemen,please..I told you 3 months ago this car was coming...I told you don't spend all your money on the shaft cars....unless you,like all the former racer2(etc) owners,myself included,wanted to be stuck with 1000(sometimes 2) dollar cars that are nothing but bashers....

want to stay with HPI....great idea..just wait for the right car,if racing is what you want to do....

[fastharry]

BTW,heres teh release..



HPI Press Release
02-06-2003 17:57:00 GMT +1 - Send this to a friend

HPI have decided to produce two exciting all-new cars in 2003, the RS4 Pro 4, and the Nitro R40. These are the highest level dedicated racing cars ever produced by HPI, they are designed specifically for maximum performance at the top level of international competition.

Exact launch dates will be confirmed later in the development process & only after extensive track testing, expect the RS4 Pro 4 and Nitro R40 to be in hobby shops toward the end of the year.

HPI Nitro R40

The all-new HPI Nitro R40 is designed for the increasingly popular 200mm Nitro IFMAR, ROAR, FEMCA & EFRA class of racing. The Nitro R40 will set new standards in terms of suspension tuning, transmission design & weight distribution. This will be the first dedicated racing car from HPI in the popular 1/10th scale nitro touring car class, with much higher levels of performance and features than found in our previous kits.

The Nitro R40 is built around a belt drive transmission to prevent torque steer issues in this ever increasingly powerful class. A state of the art power clutch to suit SG shafted race engines and a racing two speed will be standard equipment. The Nitro R40 will be available in kit form; an engine, pipe, radio & body are not included so the owner can choose the best equipment for specific racing applications. High performance, a long list of standard specifications & competitive market price will make the R40 an exciting addition to the 1/10th scale nitro touring car class.

As well as the impressive standard features, HPI have a range of options planned to allow racers to tune their cars, as required, to their track & the extreme variety of race conditions; our top team drivers & designers resources have been assigned to keep the Nitro R40 at the front of the field at major nitro touring car races.

HPI RS4 Pro 4

The RS4 Pro 4 will be a radical departure from the RS4 Pro 3, offering a change of concept for HPI both for suspe