HPI RS4 3/RS4 3 SS forum

[warden141]

need noob help:

just finished builidng ss kit

started engine - that works fine

but the car dosent move wehn i give it gas

ive not looked to see what the prob is - was gonna do it when i get home from work

was just wondering if there were any obvious spots to look at - im sure it was something i did when building it

thanks in advance for any input

[MACH 5]

Originally posted by fastharry
Frank wasn't saying that...he was responding to that guys answer about the SS(thats teh firts part of the quote)...

Franks answer starts with"the Type SS was never billed as..." Sorry, so then why would modellor make the comment, "Shaft drive aint the way to go and the manufactures all know it", given the success of the NTC3. Seems to me that the NTC3 shows that shaft drive IS the way to go. I just want to know what this guy's logic was. What would make anyone say that when the NTC3 is the leader of the pack these days?

Also, let's play role-play fastharry... If you were the lead designer in charge of building the ultimate racer, what drive system would you choose? Belt or Shaft??? I'd appreciate a thorough response is possible.

Thanks in advance!
Jason

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by fastharry
HPI #1..as a senior member,you got to do a better job;)


this info was on HPI's web site......

ummmm oooookay. sorry if i some how missed that on the HPI website, i ain't a phsyic or anything ;) . but anyways ill check there now. thanks.

[hpi#1]

Here is my RS4 3 (RTR).

Hop ups are:

Novarossi Engine- CX 12 P - with slide carb
Novarossi Tuned Pipe – 51603
HPI Tube Header (Ported)
HPI Slide Carb. Linkage Set
HPI Turnbuckles
HPI Racing clutch
GPM Engine Mounts
GPM Front Universal Dogbones
TRP Air Filter
MISC.:
Fuel Tubing

[hpi#1]

i see what u mean now fastharry. i was actually at the site yesterday, but when i was there the little NEWS thing wasn't there. i must have just missed the update.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by warden141
need noob help:

just finished builidng ss kit

started engine - that works fine

but the car dosent move wehn i give it gas

ive not looked to see what the prob is - was gonna do it when i get home from work

was just wondering if there were any obvious spots to look at - im sure it was something i did when building it

thanks in advance for any input

when you push the car, does it role? if it dosnt ur brake is dragging. also cehck if your clutch is in backwards.

[hpi#1]

[warden141]

car rolls fine - i tested it w/o engine on - to see if brake worked properly -

it rolls great, and brake works great


how does the drivetrain work

when the car is ideling - the car in neutral - no gear ?

than as gas is given - the clutch engages and its in the first gear ?

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by warden141
car rolls fine - i tested it w/o engine on - to see if brake worked properly -

it rolls great, and brake works great


how does the drivetrain work

when the car is ideling - the car in neutral - no gear ?

than as gas is given - the clutch engages and its in the first gear ?

yes that is correct. Check you clutch shoes and springs and make sure everything looks like its in its place on the flywheel to see if its actually engaging. That will probly be the most obvious problem....

[hpi#1]

did u check the clutch as i sed earlier? that is proably the problem.

as u give it throttle, the flywheel spins faster and the clutch shoes get pulled apart untill the contact the cltuch bell which is when ur clutch engages.

[kojak61]

Originally posted by Electrofied
Good morning Rico... Thank you for the info. Since I posted yesterday i have been in contact with Wolfgang and have decided to go that route... I.E. Wolfpack racing.

Now I need to find a different differential set-up... Does anyone make mod/hop-up parts for the RS4-3 Nitro SS's front and rear diffs???

Searching this forum is like looking for a submarine in the Atlantic running on batteries. LOL

Thank you in advance,
E

The Nitro MT ball diffs will fit the RS4 3.

[hpi#1]

i never knew they made a ball diff for the Nitro MT. is it made by hpi? do you have a link?

[hpi#1]

never mind. i found ti on the hpi site.

is that ball diff better tha nthe stock gear diff. also its kinda dumb how they say for the NMT. they shoudl say NMT or RS4 3, then people would know they could use it on their rs4 3 and alot more people wuld buy it.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by MACH 5
Sorry, so then why would modellor make the comment, "Shaft drive aint the way to go and the manufactures all know it", given the success of the NTC3. Seems to me that the NTC3 shows that shaft drive IS the way to go. I just want to know what this guy's logic was. What would make anyone say that when the NTC3 is the leader of the pack these days?

Also, let's play role-play fastharry... If you were the lead designer in charge of building the ultimate racer, what drive system would you choose? Belt or Shaft??? I'd appreciate a thorough response is possible.

Thanks in advance!
Jason



cause modeller is a local champ in ireland,who races a Yoke,and is absolutely convinced that a shaft drive car is the way to go..I guess he knows more than Cliff Lett...Listen,yoy could take the SS and drive that....and be convinced shaft drive is not the best way to go....cause there is a night and day difference between a tc3 and rs4 3....but drive a tc3,and it seems teh only way to go....


I'll answer the rest of this after dinner...but one thing I will say..

alot of people bash the tc3..it breaks,blows gears,all teh rest..

so I asked people what they really thought..you should see the answers I got from people who stuck with the car....its probably being raced in more areas successfully,BY AVERAGE DRIVERS,than anything else....even the new Mugen is not ahead of it....

and one thing we all noticed..for a car to have this much bashing,interest,TQ's,victories,and just plain awareness and conversation shows peoples reactions....and how great teh car must be..

I love mine,I know that...

[1nsane]

I prefer shaft drive because it does not flex and need tensioner . Shaft driven cars accelerate better than belt driven ones . More durable because a small plastic does not make your car 2WD . More suitable to handle more torque and power . In my opinion they are more realistic .

Look at the manufactuarers . Tamiya announced that the TRF drivers will use TB Evo 3 . TRF M II Evo 2 just won the IFMAR ISTC . They are changing the car because TB Evo 3 is better than M II . Team Associated drivers have used TC3 and NTC3 for years with great success . HPI plans to race with a new design shaft driven car . Shaft driven cars are being more popular everyday and choosen by more manufactuarers .

[Dinternetman]

warden141

I had that problem with my rtr 3. It turned out i was running too rich and didn't gas it enough.

This was a while ago. I was afraid to rev it any higher and run it any leaner because i was a noob and wanted to be safe.

So I took it to the hobby shop and asked them to check it out. What he did was just gas it 3/4 and it started rolling. warden141

i don't know how much you tried gassing it yet, but i think you should try gassing the car a lot more,(after you break it in of course). I felt really dumb after he "fixed" it because all i had to do was just gas the car a little more.

Hope this helps

[warden141]

Dinternetman


i hope that is the problem - i did the 2 tank break in on a stand at idle

then on 3rd tank - i gas it little more - moves little bit - barely,


i think im just gonna run another tank or two at 3/4 throttle, to finish break in, then i will adjust the mixture, and hopefully it will go

otherwise - it may be what hpi#1 and RCRACER2471 are saying

its humbeling being a newbie :)

[sebtarta]

warden141 - If i were you I would at least do 6 to 8 tanks of fuel in order to do the breaking properly.
Once you have done that, then you can apply some throttle, not much, but you can start making the car move in order to loosen up the drive train.
The more you take care of the engine at the beginning the longer it will last. So do a long breaking process, let the engine cool down, making sure the piston is not at TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER) meaning it is at the top of the sleeve, just have it at the bottom in order to prevent the piston getting stuck once it cools down.
Once this is done, then yes, spend some time in making needle adjustments and have fun with your new car.
Good luck, :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hpi#1
never mind. i found ti on the hpi site.

is that ball diff better tha nthe stock gear diff. also its kinda dumb how they say for the NMT. they shoudl say NMT or RS4 3, then people would know they could use it on their rs4 3 and alot more people wuld buy it.



2 A958 Ball Diff Sets

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=+A958+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

i listed it already and thas directly from hpi on what to use. yes its for the NMT but you can use it on the rs4 3 and it is that much better.:)

[Dinternetman]

what's the advantage of ball diff or gear diff on the rs4 3's?

[rcvette]

Hey warden141 how and where are you breaking it in. I'm also in S Jersey. It has been cold and now with the snow. Can't wait for better weather to run these in. I also have a RS4 3SS. I agree with the others it probably needs to be tuned better. Once you get it going make sure the 2 speed is working correctly.

[shawnhpi]

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar

hello all

More updated pics to come soon

More parts being added to this car.

I give it a week.

1

[shawnhpi]

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar

hello all

More updated pics to come soon

More parts being added to this car.

I give it a week.

1

[sebtarta]

ShawnHPI - nice car, but for all the investment in turning the car into a pure knock-out, I would have changed at least these things in the begininng:
1- Flywheel - pictures shows you still have the stock one.
2- Shocks - threaded shocks work better, easier to tune.
3- Fuel tank.
4- Front and Rear CVD's
5- Fiber Disk break

I would have bought these things in the as they are more important than "eye-candy". Just my opinion.
Good luck, :)

[shawnhpi]

Seb.. well its been a long winter and i gave up on racing almost twards the end ..

so nothin else to do all i did was buy..


I totaly forgot about that fly wheel (its on the list now)



I know i bought a lot of eye candy but hey i was bored with it

And ok fine ill tell yall what i am adding

f/r uni's (hb) HB almn center, HB front almn arm bulk, and dual brake disc..

will have by the end of the week i hope..

Thanks


shocks are a last on my list..

[warden141]

Originally posted by rcvette
Hey warden141 how and where are you breaking it in. I'm also in S Jersey.

small world :)

in my garage, i did 5 tanks on a stand, then on 6th i drove it slowly, to see if it would move, and yes, apparently all it needed was for me to give it gas, lol

but i tried to do a 7th tank with what the directions said, (adjusting the needle valve to close, then 3 turns counterclockwise)

well, i cant get the darn car started now - am wondering if i burnt the glow plug - i took it off and it still glows, except at the very end

also was wondering about gas all over the header and engine, i saw this from the first tank of gas i did, is this normal ?

[rcvette]

Don't know about the gas being all over but coming out of the pipe is normal. If it is on the engine and header check to make sure the carb is tight and the head bolts are tight and also the header is tight. Wit hthe vibration they can loosen up. If the carb is loose that will create problems running also.

[sebtarta]

ShawnHPI - :D Nice, I orderd the CVD's too the HB's ones, they look strong. I also orderd the disk brake too, HB's also., should be getting them on wednesday of this week. The flywheel and the shocks were the first things I ordered when I got the car.
But I must say the next for it is the Wolfpack two speed.....but cannot afford it for now.




warden141 - You should not have any gas coming out from the head. Did you take the head off? If so, make sure you tighten the screws in a X pattern, dont over tighten either, screw in until it locks then 90° more and that is all. Make sure the glow plug is tightly secured too, dont over tighten either.
The engine should start with 3 turn out in the Needle, but make sure the low end is in factory setting too. Also change the glow plug as you did the breaking in with it, and really kills the glow plug.
Hope this helps, if anything post again and we will see what to do next.
Good luck, :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by sebtarta
ShawnHPI - :D Nice, I orderd the CVD's too the HB's ones, they look strong. I also orderd the disk brake too, HB's also., should be getting them on wednesday of this week. The flywheel and the shocks were the first things I ordered when I got the car.
But I must say the next for it is the Wolfpack two speed.....but cannot afford it for now.

you wont be dissapointed with the wolfpack 2 speed or the cvd's
all you and shawn need is the centax clutch....:D. Next on my list is the ball diff's and the front aluminum c hubs and steering arms.

[shawnhpi]

Thanks seb

Kron i can't get the centax can i???

I have the fr 15 in my car. will it work?

Yes the wolf 2 speed is also a must. I don't have yet but will get..

Just put on the front almn arm bulk.. Lokks good..

Can't wait to show the car..

1

[shawnhpi]

... Hey Kron what kinda probs and i gonna come across with the HB almn center case?

1

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
... Hey Kron what kinda probs and i gonna come across with the HB almn center case?

1

well one prob i had was the 2 speed was lowered a heck of alot more (good for prepared tracks). i had to use the spacer from the original bulk head to give it more clearance (esp for parkinglot use).... at first it will seem like a tight squeeze but play with it a little and the holes will line up. it does help with the C/G there is less mass in the center of the car... .

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
Thanks seb

Kron i can't get the centax can i???

I have the fr 15 in my car. will it work?

Yes the wolf 2 speed is also a must. I don't have yet but will get..

Just put on the front almn arm bulk.. Lokks good..

Can't wait to show the car..

1

you can use the centax..... you just need the sg shaft version of the fr 15

[tmaxx_1]

hey, rcvett im also in south jersey, berlin area maybe we can get together for some racing.

[Dinternetman]

Hello to all the rs4 3 owners in here.

I just wanna properly introduce my car and I

rtr 3:
Fantom Fr15 02
Novarossi 51603 pipe (to someone that couldn't find them online, check ebay)
High flow header
racing clutch
steel turnbuckles
slide carb linkage

[RCRACER2471]

good start so far!!! :p

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Dinternetman
what's the advantage of ball diff or gear diff on the rs4 3's?

gear diffs you have to tear apart to adjust. ball diffs are externally adjustable just like on the tc3.

"(Allows infinite external adjustments to the differential settings. For front or rear use)", HPI website

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
you can use the centax..... you just need the sg shaft version of the fr 15

What centax, where??? I want one!! :D:p Also check the new Wolfpack engine mounts and flywheel for SG engines, they are a must have.

Also with ball diffs the only draw back with these are that they require more maintenance than regular diffs. That is all, but as Kronic said, they are worth the buy, as they are easier to tune.

Good luck, :)

[sebtarta]

Hey sorry guys forgot the link about the wolfpack stuff.
Wolfpack (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114519)
Goodluck, :)

[rcvette]

Originally posted by tmaxx_1
hey, rcvett im also in south jersey, berlin area maybe we can get together for some racing.
If the snow ever melts and we get some warmer weather I'm there. Got two other cars to bash with also. A RC10GT and a Savage.

[oN_dUbZ]

Hey guys. I'm havin a bit of a problem with my car. I ran about 8 tanks in my new Nitro RTR3 hpi. I installed my 2-speed transmission(optional) and then put in my dynamite fuel tubing(broke my stock tubing). I turned on my car, for some out of this world odd reason, after i turn it on my car will TAKE OFF. i mean if i put it on the ground it goes as fast as my 1-speed at half-throttle. I tried messing with the Thr-Trim on my Transmitter, then I tried messing with the Linkage set and made the air-carb open port thing more back so when idle less air goes in, and its still not changin.I'm happy that its going this freakin fast, but the car just wont stay still when idle. WHAT do i do?? please post?

thanx all

[sebtarta]

Sounds like you might have a few problems here. Ok, 1st thing 1st does the clutch bell spin freely?? As you said you installed the new 2 speed, you need to install a new clutch bell, so maybe with out meaning you overtighten the screw cause the clutchbell to be locked with the pilot shaft.
If that is not the problem, then get the engine and go to factory setting once again. Always try to have almost .9mm open on the carb mouth when it is in neutral position the servo. Having the trim and all in the 0 postion.
Cannot think of anything else really, but I bet $1 its the clutch bell that does not spin free.
Good luck, :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by sebtarta
What centax, where??? I want one!! :D:p Also check the new Wolfpack engine mounts and flywheel for SG engines, they are a must have.

Also with ball diffs the only draw back with these are that they require more maintenance than regular diffs. That is all, but as Kronic said, they are worth the buy, as they are easier to tune.

Good luck, :)

hotbodies sells the centax style clutch except they call it a centerforce clutch. part #HB61145 Centerforce Clutch

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
hotbodies sells the centax style clutch except they call it a centerforce clutch. part #HB61145 Centerforce Clutch


Would you by any chance know where they sell it???
Good luck, :)

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by sebtarta
Would you by any chance know where they sell it???
Good luck, :)

www.meganitro.com

[fezzy]

Hi guys, I had a GREAT day today.... I got my CX12P running sweet as a nut when I changed to a MC-59 Plug, I also had my shift point spot on, Unfortunately it didn't last all afternoon! The grub screw that holes the 2-Speed together managed to wriggle out so I lost 2nd, But anyway.... I still had a race against my mate with his Fusion, So Fusion vs Single Speed CX12P RS43 SS.... I didn't only win, But I lapped him!!!

Anyway, The luck didn't last all afternoon and I lost one of the screws that holds one side of the calipers to the GPM Housing... I geuss the guy I got it off didn't use loctite. I also seemed to of cracked a rim right at the edge. I noticed shortly after running it for the first time that there where white shavings everywhere, these have come from my Rims on the very inside where the E-Clip is attached to the flange shaft (PG 17, Section 22, Part #A280B) The E-Clip just rubs on the edge of the rims, and this is what I think made it crack... Any ideas on this? Fixes?.

Finally... Any setups?! My car is very sensitive, abit too sensitive for me.... It also tends to understeer in corners, I may have fixed this though because I had preload in the rear, not the front and abit too much posotive camber in the front (Could also be a cause to my flange shaft problem). I only race in parking lots, Cheers.

[glock.40]

warden141,

I had the same problem with my rsr4 3 ss. being a newb to R/C, i took it to teh hobby store and they said i had flushed the engine by priming too much fuel. they emptied the fuel by removing the glow plug, and changed the the needle settings. the car runs perfectly now.

does anyone know if these rc cars run in the rain?

never thought id be spending all my money on r/c cars...theyre just too fun!

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys...actually the 2-speed comes with a new clutchbell and EVERYTHING, i mean pinions, spurs and the shafts and EVERYTHING is spinning freely while i roll.the only problem im having is that the car wont stay still in IDLE, it takes off like a rocket. I'm going to try to see the linkage/carb setting tonite and fix that and adjust the idle screw and throttle trims

late guys

[Electrofied]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
hey guys...actually the 2-speed comes with a new clutchbell and EVERYTHING, i mean pinions, spurs and the shafts and EVERYTHING is spinning freely while i roll.the only problem im having is that the car wont stay still in IDLE, it takes off like a rocket. I'm going to try to see the linkage/carb setting tonite and fix that and adjust the idle screw and throttle trims

late guys

-Turn on your radio
-Turn on your receiver
-Set the throttle trim to zero
-Remove the throttle servo horn
-Adjust throttle link to the manual's specifications
-Put the throttle servo horn back on
-Adjust trim to where the throttle is in the closed position when you are not touching the trigger
-Adjust the brake link
-Adjust the servo travel to where the throttle is wide open when the trigger is mashed all the way and closed when the trigger is not being touched
-Make sure to have enough movement as to enable the brake without it affecting the throttle I.E. Once the thrttle is closed when the trigger is in neutral position you should be able to push forward on the trigger to engage the brake.
-Adjust your idle needle to get the car to start
-Adjust idle needle once it is running to set a nice idle speed, (NOTE, All of mine are adjusted to where the car is just on the verge of enough power to get rolling but the clutch is not catching.

I hope this helps,
E

[Electrofied]

Sorry double post

[Electrofied]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
www.meganitro.com


I do not see it on their site... Am i blind or is it a special order item???
Thannk you,
E

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Electrofied
I do not see it on their site... Am i blind or is it a special order item???
Thannk you,
E

its a special order item... email: lance.bingham@mindspring.com to order it and or for more information on it.:)

[Dinternetman]

What's a good header that you guys would recommend for my rs4 3? I had one (dunno what brand) but one screw hole stripped.

[japriljr]

just throw some lock nuts on the end of the screws. I don't know the size, but thats what I did.

[japriljr]

just throw some lock nuts on the end of the screws. I don't know the size, but thats what I did.

[KronicRacer]

dont forget the thread lock on the nuts

[nitrovortex]

heres mine just for the record:
http://www.watchmaster.co.uk/car1.jpg
http://www.watchmaster.co.uk/pic4.jpg
http://www.watchmaster.co.uk/pic5.jpg

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by nitrovortex
heres mine just for the record:


nice.... velly nice:cool:

[ASSASSIN]

Originally posted by DOHCrazy
I dont know the prices for the PR and Ofna pipes so what is the difference in money with the THS pipe?
Im probly gona go with the THS pipe... although my options are still open for the:

paris pipe http://parisracing.com/al12.htm

and the 6 ring ofna pipe
1/10 Pipe, 6 Rings,
OnRoad, Purple
Part#: 10064

I have the CVEC dual exaust pipe on my ss, and it gives a huge performance increase, but its not ROAR race legal. I have the 6 ring in my rush and its also a great pipe, so if youre gonn abe racing the car in big official races (local clubs should allow the dual exaust), get the 6 ring, otherwise, I say go for the dual exaust.

[70mphrs4]

this is a question for nitrovortex. is htat engine in your car a picco 7 port turbo? i am wondering because i have one but i havnt broken it in yet. if it is how does it run?

[Drastika]

ok i finally got me a 2 speed, and i dont kow if it is shifting, is it going to make a sound or what,

[ASSASSIN]

You should feel the difference, but its not that major, so I suppose if your new to 2 speeds you might not.

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by Drastika
ok i finally got me a 2 speed, and i dont kow if it is shifting, is it going to make a sound or what,

Just follow the instruction in how to install the 2-speed and which is a good starting point. Once you have done that, it is noticeable when the 2-speed changes, with this type as the gear ratio is so close it is hardly to see it, but you can hear it.
Have it like 3 1/2 out, and that should have an early shift where you can notice it.
Good luck, :)

[Drastika]

i dont understand how the 2 speed works can somone explainto me how it works.

[ASSASSIN]

There are 2 different "pinion gears" and 2 diferent "spur gears". The car starts out in the smaller gearing therefore getting more power. More power=faster acceleration. On an auto 2 speed like the one on the ss, when the car reaches a certain rpm or speed, the gears shift to the higher gearing, creating less power (which you no longer need cause youre already going fast) and giving faster speed. This way you get both torque in low speed and...well..more speed at high speed. Like the gears in a real car.
You cant just start driving in 4th gear can you?
I hope that made sence.

[hardyboy]

Anybody out there that can help me??

I recently installed the yellow (17T) 1st gear and the red (23T) 2nd gear on my Type SS with the stock engine. When I press the throttle everything is OK until the car wants to change to 2nd....then it bogs down and feels like the mixture is too lean at the top end. I then richened the mixture, same problem, so I then slackened the allen screw on the 2 speed in 1/4 turn increments, same problem.

I was told by someone that it could be that my carb needs cleaning. I even thought tha the engine could not handle the drastic gear change so I reduced my 2nd gear to the stock purple one and experienced the same problem again!!!!:confused:

Has anyone experienced this? Because I do not know what else I can try except scrap down the carb like my friend suggested...but I really do not want to have to do that if I can help it.

[Drastika]

ya i understand how a transmission works, but how does this one work because both pinion and both spur gears are touching. i dont understnd that part. thats why i am having a hard time telling if mine is shifting gears or not

[sebtarta]

Hardyboy - Your engines bogs down when it shifts only for the reason that is does not have enough power to pick up once it changes gear. Besides you teeth difference in the pinions are way to much. I see that you decreased on the 1st pinion and increased on the 2nd. Try this for a change, add the 19T to the 1st pinoin only.
Also make sure the engine is tune right, hopefully you know how too. Start factory setting, and tune from there, for starters have the 2-speed locked. But I am pretty sure is that the engine cannot take the big jump in teeths.


Drastika - Did you manage to see you car shifting?? How does the 2-speed work is simple, you have the 2 spur gears, where one has the finger type clutch (HPI example). As the engine picks up rpm, the finger has more force than the spring that keeps it in neutral, so it engages the 2nd gear by locking the finger or tongue to a retainer pin on the gear housing.
Now once the 2nd gear engages what means is that, as that gear is spinning quiker than the 1st one, then the 1st one is ignored, also by the use of the one way bearing this is done.
Mainly this si how it works, dont want to go into detail becuase its to long, but this should answer your question.

Good luck, :)

[hardyboy]

Originally posted by sebtarta
Hardyboy - Your engines bogs down when it shifts only for the reason that is does not have enough power to pick up once it changes gear. Besides you teeth difference in the pinions are way to much. I see that you decreased on the 1st pinion and increased on the 2nd. Try this for a change, add the 19T to the 1st pinoin only.
Also make sure the engine is tune right, hopefully you know how too. Start factory setting, and tune from there, for starters have the 2-speed locked. But I am pretty sure is that the engine cannot take the big jump in teeths.


Good luck, :)

Well I replaced the 2nd gear with the purple standard one and set it back to factory setting. Same problem. The engine is rated for @ 1HP if you believe HPI.

[sebtarta]

Ok does it bog down and then die, or it bogs down and picks up speed after that? Also you might have the shifting where the engine is not at its full power and that is one of the reasons why it dies down.
Try adjusting the 2-speed for a later change, where the engine is at a decent speed.
Good luck, :)

[glock.40]

i screwed up my midrange. Does anyoen know what the factory settings are for the midrange screw for my type SS?

It's overheating, and i dont know why.

[fastharry]

there is no mid range screw on the SS motor...pull out your insructions and reset the needled..

[Drastika]

sebtarta

thanks man

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Well I replaced the 2nd gear with the purple standard one and set it back to factory setting. Same problem. The engine is rated for @ 1HP if you believe HPI.

have you recently put threadlock on the 2 speed? if you have..... the 2 speed is locking up from too much threadlock. youre going to have to tear down the 2 speed to check everything out to clean out by hand with thinner. youre gonna have to regrease everything with wd40.

[tl_ke_racer]

i got a spare high torq steering servo would it be necessary to put it in my rs4, like would i see a real perforance change in handling, or should i just leave the stock servo in?

[JeffS]

Definitely install a higher torque or higher speed servo. It makes a huge difference on the RS4 3 SS.

-Jeff

[hardyboy]

Kronicracer:

I just teared down the 2 speed, cleaned and re-installed everything back to normal (including the set screw, which I turned 2 turns anti CW from fully in)

Any other suggestions??

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
Kronicracer:

I just teared down the 2 speed, cleaned and re-installed everything back to normal (including the set screw, which I turned 2 turns anti CW from fully in)

Any other suggestions??

my next advice would be to check out the motor clutch to see if it has been melted (esp if youre using the stock clutch). for the 2 speed 3 1/2 turns counter(anti)clockwise on the set screw(just as a starting point, tune it from there). remember to threadlock it also. just dont use too much threadlocker ;). did you have any other probs b4 the gearing change?..... cuz it may also be a case of retuning your fuel mix as sebtarta said b4 :) With new gears there is also a new shift point to b found.... your not reving to max power b4 you shift 2 2nd and thats why it bogs down. tune the fuel mix b4 you do the 2 speed.

[johnnc]

Greetings All,

I just purchased my first r/c car, RS4 3 RTR with the 15 FE engine. My brother (experienced in r/c) came over to help me break in the engine and show me the ropes.

The engine ran great for the first three tanks and was very easy to start (2 or 3 pulls each time). On the fourth tank, the engine was exremely hard to start and would not stay running. There was also a loud metal to metal sound.

We realized the flywheel was loose. We could hold the flywheel and pull the pull start. The flywheel did not move! We removed the clutch and discovered the nut holding the flywheel in place was loose. We tightened it and reassembled the engine. It started on the first pull.

I ran the car for about a minute and it died. The flywheel was loose again. My brother and I are big boys so I know the nut was tight. Is there something I am missing or doing wrong or is there something wrong with my setup?

Any help would be much appreciated. I have read about 30 pages of this VERY long thread, but could not find any information about my problem.

Thanks in advance,

John

[Gee]

No matter how strong you are, without the piston locking tool you wont be able to tight the nut enough.

Its a rod that screw in the glow plug opening, when you turn the nut the piston stop on the rod, this way you get to tight it very well.

Hope this help.

[johnnc]

Thanks for the tip on the piston locking tool, but I had one installed when we tightened up the nut.

Is there something else I am doing wrong?
Should lock tight be used on this connection?
Is this a common problem with this 2-part drive type setup?

Thanks again

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Gee
No matter how strong you are, without the piston locking tool you wont be able to tight the nut enough.

Its a rod that screw in the glow plug opening, when you turn the nut the piston stop on the rod, this way you get to tight it very well.

Hope this help.

this is all true...also dont forget to threadlock (blue liquid) the pilot shaft. this will keep it from vibrating off of the shaft and away from the flywheel.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by johnnc
Thanks for the tip on the piston locking tool, but I had one installed when we tightened up the nut.

Is there something else I am doing wrong?
Should lock tight be used on this connection?
Is this a common problem with this 2-part drive type setup?

Thanks again

question 1. no
question 2. threadlock/ loc tight yes
question 3. when there is no threadlock applied it is a problem

:)

[johnnc]

Thanks for the quick responses. I will give it another go tonight. I have read much of this thread about this type of car and it looks like some hop ups are in order. I am initially considering the following:

Racing Clutch
2 speed
Fiberglass Brake pad

Will you suggest other pertinent upgrades that will enhance performance for the weekend warrior type who may venture out to the track?

John

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by johnnc
Thanks for the quick responses. I will give it another go tonight. I have read much of this thread about this type of car and it looks like some hop ups are in order. I am initially considering the following:

Racing Clutch
2 speed
Fiberglass Brake pad

Will you suggest other pertinent upgrades that will enhance performance for the weekend warrior type who may venture out to the track?

John

#HB61135 Stainless Steel Ventilated Brake Rotor $30
motor saverair filter $15
jaco shoes or elligi foam tires $40 (required for most tracks)
hpi racing header $15
paris racing/ofna 6 ring racing pipe $36

[shawnhpi]

WELL EVERY ONE
cHECK OUT THE SITE the car finaly has more to it.. Let me know what all ya think



http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
#HB61135 Stainless Steel Ventilated Brake Rotor $30
motor saverair filter $15
jaco shoes or elligi foam tires $40 (required for most tracks)
hpi racing header $15
paris racing/ofna 6 ring racing pipe $36


All of the above are nice things but I would change one of them. The tuned pipe, I'll by the THS pipe.

THS Racing Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPX4&P=7)

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/thpg1010.jpg


Its a one piece unit, and it works great.


Hot Bodies Aluminum Heat Sink Purple .15FE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHN4&P=7) , a big yes to keep the engine cool.

Also to keep the fuel clean, Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter Purple (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAHE5&P=7)


Cannot think of anything else that you might need that is important. 1st is hope you have fun and try and learn as much as possible with your car. Dont spend to much $$$$ on this car, use it as a learning car, then spend some $$$$ in a better car to beat your brother, :D

Good luck, :)

[hardyboy]

I have read about the theory of boost bottles. It seems to work. What I want to find out is if anyonehas actually installed them on their engine and what were the results?

Also, how difficult was it to drill the pressure fitting below the carb? Could this damage my engine if not done properly???

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
WELL EVERY ONE
cHECK OUT THE SITE the car finaly has more to it.. Let me know what all ya think



http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

the sweetness :eek:..... all you need now is the 2speed, shocks and clutch;)

sebtarta. ths pipe is good...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
I have read about the theory of boost bottles. It seems to work. What I want to find out is if anyonehas actually installed them on their engine and what were the results?

Also, how difficult was it to drill the pressure fitting below the carb? Could this damage my engine if not done properly???

ive read and asked a few of the experienced racers from the old hpi forum that did do it... they all told me that it was a waste of money. you have to drill the crank case what that means is that you have to dissasemble the whole motor and be extremely carefull when drilling.. if not you will have no motor if you mess up. now if later down the road when you have another motor in your "garage" and the 15 fe is a back up motor i would go ahead and use the 15fe as a test mule for the boost bottle. but until you have another motor and/or car, i would advise against getting that stuff. in the long run your better off just getting a os motor, an orion wasp, sirio outlaw, sirio race legal, or a nova mega. save your money and get a better motor for now.

[hardyboy]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
WELL EVERY ONE
cHECK OUT THE SITE the car finaly has more to it.. Let me know what all ya think



http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

Very nice!!! But I would like to add some comments:

Threaded Aluminium Shocks
Constant velocity driveshaft (Front & Rear)
Titanium screw set
Aluminium Differential boxes (Front & Rear)

Just my two cents worth!

[KronicRacer]

i forgot to tell everyone! i got the ball diffs for the rear.. they fit perfectly.. next on my list is the front oneway differential.:D

[70mphrs4]

what up. here is my nitro 3. tell me what you think.


here are more pics on wolfgangs site. http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/jesse.html
and http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/jesse_1_0.html

[70mphrs4]

o ya, i forgot to say that some pf the pics on wolfpackradicals are of my care before it had the aluminum center carrier and aluminum a arms

[KronicRacer]

looking good.. is it an on going upgrade project?

[70mphrs4]

yeah it is. because if i got all the parts at once that i wanted then it wouldnt be as fun in the future when im not driving it cuz i would have a ton of hop ups already.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by 70mphrs4
yeah it is. because if i got all the parts at once that i wanted then it wouldnt be as fun in the future when im not driving it cuz i would have a ton of hop ups already.

thats cool at least you wont get bored with it

[shawnhpi]

Hey thanks every on ewho comented,, Yes i do know about the f/r almn gear cases.. They are on my list but bot for 50 bux a case yet.. The shocks are also 2nd, (rear arm bulk is 1st, i already have the front)... And after the arm bulk will be the radio..

I do need some major help picking out a engine..

I am gonna put th efr 15 back in the box and in a corner.. I need a really good SIDE port .12 engine..

Any help would be awesome thanks.. I will also trade the fr15 for a new side port 12. My engine is new never ran, with a slide carb added..

Thanks

[hardyboy]

I think one of the best side port .12 engines is the WASP by Team Orion.

[shawnhpi]

Ill check out the wasdp,,,,

Any other reco engines any one .12 sides only..

[hardyboy]

My tank that came with the SS is not priming! I seem to recall reading in a previous thread long ago that someone had taken out the primer and installed a screw with an O-ring making it like the racing tank almost. How did this person remove the primer assembly without seperating the tank? Or did he?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by hardyboy
My tank that came with the SS is not priming! I seem to recall reading in a previous thread long ago that someone had taken out the primer and installed a screw with an O-ring making it like the racing tank almost. How did this person remove the primer assembly without seperating the tank? Or did he?

i think he removed the primer thing out with pliers i dont think he sepatrated the tank.. he used silicone sealer and the o ring i remember that much. try yanking it out with pliers first. also its in your best interest to have a backup tank handy incase this one gets fouled up. (will keep an eye out for that post);)

[hardyboy]

Yeah but the primer shaft has two diameters from what I can tell with one being larger than the ID of the hole....therefore it can't pull out!!!!????

[integra_twinz]

My primer has also stopped priming too.

What I did was just to take out the black push knob, remove the spring, pull out the primer as far as possible, cut the shaft, push it back in, remove it from inside with a long-nose plier, and put in a wood screw with sealant on it.

All is good now; No leaks whatsoever.

[tl_ke_racer]

hey would that 12 dollar hpi header increase performance in my rtr?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
hey would that 12 dollar hpi header increase performance in my rtr?

yes it does. the black hpi race tube header spanks the stock bulky trashy heatsink looking header looks wise and performance wise.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
Ill check out the wasdp,,,,

Any other reco engines any one .12 sides only..

Collari XS12PSS

[glock.40]

I have a stock Type SS with the factory settings in place. Can you guys recommend some possible mods I can do to the car given the parts that come wiht the kit? (Shock spacers, Camber, toe in, ride height front and rear, tires, midrange and high speed valve settings) I am a beginner, and dont want to put any money into the car until I can figure out how to tune it properly.

The kit comes with optional castors, which should I use? Are there some good spec sheets online somewhere?

Thanks!

[supra528]

ok, i am soooo close to being ready to drive (just ordered my pipe and then all i need is some ellegi foams). i have a sirio outlaw in my car and im using the ofna slide carb linkage. i was wondering if there was a screw on the sirio so that you can adjust how much the carb closes.... please help me... im sooo close

mike

[sebtarta]

Originally posted by supra528
i was wondering if there was a screw on the sirio so that you can adjust how much the carb closes
mike

Yeah you should have the idle screw on the side of the carb. Check the instructions of it, it should tell you. Adjust the carb opening to be 1mm open when throttle is at neutral position.
Good luck, :)

[supra528]

lol........ they instructions that came wit it REALLY suck.....hmm.. i guess ill check their website..... thanks a lot


mike

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by supra528
lol........ they instructions that came wit it REALLY suck.....hmm.. i guess ill check their website..... thanks a lot


mike

try the tc3 post on this site they should know how to adjust it(Its the common tc3 motor).... i have mine but havent had time to tinker with it. your right the instructions do suck.

[A-SD1]

Hey guys!! What's this I hear about HPI'S new "PRO" car. Does anyone have any more info on this thing (R40). Well I just hope it kick's ass!!! It wont be out until next racing season (2004).

[supra528]

OK, i found the damn idle screw... thanks a lot.... ill post some picks when i get my pipe

mike

[supra528]

ok, im goin to f*ckin kill this thing.... i hate this slide carb..... does anyone know where to get a rotary one for the sirio???? or does anyone exactly know how to get it connected??? cuz mine is all done but when i go to full throttle, because its on the angle, the slide is facing up and the arm is horizontal, so at full, it pauses for a second at like 9.5/10 open then goes fully open..... then when i let the trigger go, it goes to like 1/3 open. it only goes back to 1mm if i put the brake on.......... i desperatly need help

mike

[supra528]

ok, its gottin better as i use it but when the carb opens to full, it like bends the chassis....... its weird........ can some one wit a sirio tell me what they did???

mike

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
Ill check out the wasdp,,,,

Any other reco engines any one .12 sides only..

found a site where they sell collari http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=108_118_119&osCsid=ef750387391f582550eed01aac1f595f

[KronicRacer]

got the front oneway diff the install was fairly simple swap.....:D :cool: very cool hop up!!

[KronicRacer]

has any one used the axles from the nmt?

[fezzy]

Question on the HB Graphite Upper Deck. How good a job does it do at stiffening the chassis up?? Would it be wise to get this or the F4i Titanium Upper Deck?? How does the RX and Battery Pack mount and where?. Some pics would be good, Can't seem to find a shot with the HB Upper Deck taken from the right side of the car :rolleyes:

Tomorrow I am getting a Paris AL12T Ripple Pipe, T-Maxx Header, Racing Clutch and a 6v Hump Pack.... HOPEFULLY it should give the car alot more life, My mates RS4-2 with a NovaRossi CX12P (Same as mine) seems to be ALOT faster, He does have a aftermarket Manifold and Pipe though. I am absolutely appauled at the Type SS Manifold, How they can call this a high flow manifold is beyond me, The bore of the exhaust port is half the size of the exhaust port on my engine and the actual diameter of the manifold is no larger than that on my old standard NMT manifold.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fezzy
Question on the HB Graphite Upper Deck. How good a job does it do at stiffening the chassis up?? Would it be wise to get this or the F4i Titanium Upper Deck?? How does the RX and Battery Pack mount and where?. Some pics would be good, Can't seem to find a shot with the HB Upper Deck taken from the right side of the car :rolleyes:

Tomorrow I am getting a Paris AL12T Ripple Pipe, T-Maxx Header, Racing Clutch and a 6v Hump Pack.... HOPEFULLY it should give the car alot more life, My mates RS4-2 with a NovaRossi CX12P (Same as mine) seems to be ALOT faster, He does have a aftermarket Manifold and Pipe though. I am absolutely appauled at the Type SS Manifold, How they can call this a high flow manifold is beyond me, The bore of the exhaust port is half the size of the exhaust port on my engine and the actual diameter of the manifold is no larger than that on my old standard NMT manifold.

sorry bout the bad pic quality but..... either one of the decks you mentioned would add stiffness but ill tell you this much the HB upperdeck does add stiffness to it and it is light. there are 2 mounting locations on both decks. one near the front above the steering servo like in the pic or near the 2 speed where the orange failsafe is.... what motor r u using? 12rss?
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/6220/p/166846_5837453553224321753_vl.jpg

[fezzy]

Cheers, I have a Novarossi CX12P

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fezzy
Cheers, I have a Novarossi CX12P

you should have no problem beating him(crossing fingers):) just dont forget to retune the motor.

[fezzy]

A note to anyone wanting to get a Paris AL12T Ripple Pipe for the RS4 3, It doesn't fit as nice or as easy as some other pipes!. There is a pipe retainer on the top of the pipe, But since the RS43 has the engine on the left hand side (facing front) then the mounting retainer actually points straight down and can hit the ground, I very carefully got it on a angle so that its just about flush with the chassis, The pipe isn't actually level with the chassis either, but its not far off. I also had to use a shorter grub screw because the one that comes with it is very long and will guarentee that it hits the ground before your chassis. Anyway, It seems to be OK now after some fiddling, Forgot to buy a gasket for my T-Maxx header though :(

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fezzy
A note to anyone wanting to get a Paris AL12T Ripple Pipe for the RS4 3, It doesn't fit as nice or as easy as some other pipes!. There is a pipe retainer on the top of the pipe, But since the RS43 has the engine on the left hand side (facing front) then the mounting retainer actually points straight down and can hit the ground, I very carefully got it on a angle so that its just about flush with the chassis, The pipe isn't actually level with the chassis either, but its not far off. I also had to use a shorter grub screw because the one that comes with it is very long and will guarentee that it hits the ground before your chassis. Anyway, It seems to be OK now after some fiddling, Forgot to buy a gasket for my T-Maxx header though :(

this also applies to the ofna six ring pipe, same pipe different company.:cool:

[fastharry]

Originally posted by supra528
ok, im goin to f*ckin kill this thing.... i hate this slide carb..... does anyone know where to get a rotary one for the sirio???? or does anyone exactly know how to get it connected??? cuz mine is all done but when i go to full throttle, because its on the angle, the slide is facing up and the arm is horizontal, so at full, it pauses for a second at like 9.5/10 open then goes fully open..... then when i let the trigger go, it goes to like 1/3 open. it only goes back to 1mm if i put the brake on.......... i desperatly need help

mike

supra..which car do you have..the SS or rtr3?..

[rico750sxi]

Here's a pic of my car. It's stock still with the exception of the SS header. I have the 2 speed and 23 tooth pinion, CVEC pipe, 2 needle carb, motorsavers air filter, racing clutch,and fiber brake disc coming. Gotta love those tax returns!! I know it's plain but I think it's a nice salute to the Camaro. I also have another Camaro body coming with some red and silver paint. I'm going to try and paint a 35th anniversary edition. Wish me luck and thanks to all of you, listening to you all gave me a good idea of what to get for my car.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Here's a pic of my car. It's stock still with the exception of the SS header. I have the 2 speed and 23 tooth pinion, CVEC pipe, 2 needle carb, motorsavers air filter, racing clutch,and fiber brake disc coming. Gotta love those tax returns!! I know it's plain but I think it's a nice salute to the Camaro. I also have another Camaro body coming with some red and silver paint. I'm going to try and paint a 35th anniversary edition. Wish me luck and thanks to all of you, listening to you all gave me a good idea of what to get for my car.

the tax return strikes again;) sounds like your gonna be busy tinkering with it:cool:

[rico750sxi]

Now if it would just warm up so I can run it!!

[puma1824]

Originally posted by shawnhpi
WELL EVERY ONE
cHECK OUT THE SITE the car finaly has more to it.. Let me know what all ya think



http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/rs43ssnitrocar/

I notice you have 190mm bodies on your nitro...am I correct? IF so have any problems with the width?

-Puma

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Now if it would just warm up so I can run it!!

gotta love ft lauderdale......(crossing fingers there are no rain squalls this afternoon):)

[fastharry]

for all you guys looking to fit a slide carb on the rtr3 ..HPI makes a slide carb horn set that came in the SS only..it is real easy to do the slide carbs with the rtr3,N MT,and super nitro rally....the part # is 85039....and youll need to look at the SS manual on HPI's site....you also might need the throttle linkage set...you can compare #'s in the manuals on the site...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
for all you guys looking to fit a slide carb on the rtr3 ..HPI makes a slide carb horn set that came in the SS only..it is real easy to do the slide carbs with the rtr3,N MT,and super nitro rally....the part # is 85039....and youll need to look at the SS manual on HPI's site....you also might need the throttle linkage set...you can compare #'s in the manuals on the site...

thanks for the reminder...... i almost forgot about all the lil horns that came with the kit.:cool:

[FenDer BenDers]

Hey,

If your looking for the best screw kit for your HPI RS4-3 SS/RTR
Then I have what you need..
Want to replace those weak self tapping phillips head screw ??
Want to find good replacements for those lost or broken screws ??

than look no further..

FenDer BenDer R/C
www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)

has a complete line of A2-70 Stainless steel hex head screw kits for the HPI RS4-3 SS/RTR and other of today's most popular kits..

want more info ??
info@benderstore.com

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by FenDer BenDers
Hey,

If your looking for the best screw kit for your HPI RS4-3 SS/RTR
Then I have what you need..
Want to replace those weak self tapping phillips head screw ??
Want to find good replacements for those lost or broken screws ??

than look no further..

FenDer BenDer R/C
www.benderstore.com (http://www.benderstore.com)

has a complete line of A2-70 Stainless steel hex head screw kits for the HPI RS4-3 SS/RTR and other of today's most popular kits..

want more info ??
info@benderstore.com

MY SEARCH IS OVER!!!!:eek: thanks for the info:cool: :cool: :cool:

[KronicRacer]

are your screw kits going to include locknuts?:confused:

[FenDer BenDers]

yes they include lock nuts/nuts/washers/lock washers/tools

everything you need,

FenDer BenDer

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by FenDer BenDers
yes they include lock nuts/nuts/washers/lock washers/tools

everything you need,

FenDer BenDer

[fezzy]

FenDer BenDers, What are the allen head sizes on these screws, 2mm or 2.5mm? I find that 2mm allen head bolts strip FAR too easy.

[FenDer BenDers]

All the screws in my kits are 3mm diameter and up.
Look at the instructions that came with your kit and you will see what I mean...

Thanks

FenDer BenDers

[RCRACER2471]

Why is there only a difference of $2.00 between the basic kit and the pro kit. Wouldnt everyone just spend the extra $2.00 to get the best....

[fastharry]

nice looking web site..

you would do good with a set of screws for the tc3 nitro....

[supra528]

nvm...nvm... i got it fixed

[fezzy]

So the hex's on the top of the screws are 3mm in size? I find that a little hard to believe, It'd mean the screws would have to be small threaded but with a huge head.

[Billiumss]

Originally posted by rico750sxi
Here's a pic of my car. It's stock still with the exception of the SS header. I have the 2 speed and 23 tooth pinion, CVEC pipe, 2 needle carb, motorsavers air filter, racing clutch,and fiber brake disc coming. Gotta love those tax returns!! I know it's plain but I think it's a nice salute to the Camaro. I also have another Camaro body coming with some red and silver paint. I'm going to try and paint a 35th anniversary edition. Wish me luck and thanks to all of you, listening to you all gave me a good idea of what to get for my car.

Cool looking car!!!

Do you have any rear shots of it?

I am going to be buying a RS4 Type SS very soon and I am going to buy the Camaro SS body so I can paint it to match my real car...

[FenDer BenDers]

fezzy - you mean the actual hex, well everyone knows that all 3mm screws use a 2mm hex head, industry standard..If you have a problem stripping screws they may be made from a soft metal or something, I have never had that problem..

RCRACER2471 - My prices are fair all across the board if the diffence between kits is $2.00 then it is because ther is $2.00 more of materials, Fasteners range in prices, I would never make a huge difference in price just because I call something "Pro"

fastharry - thanks, I'm glad you like the site I am planning on bringing out the TC3 kit very soon

thanks for you questions

FenDer BenDers

[Prinler]

Alright guys. Kind of new i have poked around the forum. I have some questions

I just traded my ruck for this nitro rs4 3... its all hopped up and had 5 tanks threw......

what do i use to clean it? is there anything besided glow plugs and gas i have to buy?
i have NEVER DONE or SEEN anything nitro only vids

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Prinler
Alright guys. Kind of new i have poked around the forum. I have some questions

I just traded my ruck for this nitro rs4 3... its all hopped up and had 5 tanks threw......

what do i use to clean it? is there anything besided glow plugs and gas i have to buy?
i have NEVER DONE or SEEN anything nitro only vids

HPI nitro engine cleaner to clean it...also tiers/foams are more items you need

[KronicRacer]

anyone tried the ackerman setup for the car?

[70mphrs4]

my setup with the wolfpack aluminum ball bearing steering can be considers ackerman but i havnt used it yet.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by 70mphrs4
my setup with the wolfpack aluminum ball bearing steering can be considers ackerman but i havnt used it yet.

does it look like the hotbodies one?

[fezzy]

Got to run my RS4 today with the AL12T Paris Ripple Pipe, T-Maxx Header and the 6v. Such a difference, top end was better, low end was better, mid range was better, exhaust note was lovely, brakes and steering where much quicker. I can't recommend the Kyosho Brake Disks highly enough, I am only using one and with my standard S3003 @ 6Volts it could lock the wheels of the car at WOT with ease, Fantastic!!. There isn't much left of my stock tyres after today, Infact the right rear is down into the foam on the inside of the tyre, I should of switched the tyres round after every tank, We where going round the circuit the same direction all day... Oh well, Live and learn!!, They aren't that good anyway, They seem to wear loads and the grip is only 'decent', I am going to pick some foams up this week!. I also stripped the 2nd speed spur, Don't know how because it was meshed perfectly, Not a scratch on the first on either, Engine bolts seem tight aswell so they can't of come loose. No major damage anyway, So quite pleased.

I also managed to get my CX12 tuned nicely today, Temps of 230-250 and it was FLYING with the new pipe/header, It wasn't so far off what my Fusion used to be, Just a helluva lot more controllable. We had about 5 Fusions there again today aswell, I think only 1 was left running in the end due to stones in the belt. Meanwhile I had no such troubles, Only my stripped spur gear ended my day!.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fezzy
Got to run my RS4 today with the AL12T Paris Ripple Pipe, T-Maxx Header and the 6v. Such a difference, top end was better, low end was better, mid range was better, exhaust note was lovely, brakes and steering where much quicker. I can't recommend the Kyosho Brake Disks highly enough, I am only using one and with my standard S3003 @ 6Volts it could lock the wheels of the car at WOT with ease, Fantastic!!. There isn't much left of my stock tyres after today, Infact the right rear is down into the foam on the inside of the tyre, I should of switched the tyres round after every tank, We where going round the circuit the same direction all day... Oh well, Live and learn!!, They aren't that good anyway, They seem to wear loads and the grip is only 'decent', I am going to pick some foams up this week!. I also stripped the 2nd speed spur, Don't know how because it was meshed perfectly, Not a scratch on the first on either, Engine bolts seem tight aswell so they can't of come loose. No major damage anyway, So quite pleased.

I also managed to get my CX12 tuned nicely today, Temps of 230-250 and it was FLYING with the new pipe/header, It wasn't so far off what my Fusion used to be, Just a helluva lot more controllable. We had about 5 Fusions there again today aswell, I think only 1 was left running in the end due to stones in the belt. Meanwhile I had no such troubles, Only my stripped spur gear ended my day!.


great to hear the positive from the track front. sounds like you may have picked up a small enuff pebble to throw the spur gear to hell. stock tires are ish get the foams!:)

[70mphrs4]

this is what the cranks look like.http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/steering_cranks1.html

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by 70mphrs4
this is what the cranks look like.http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/steering_cranks1.html

yea the hotbodies one resembles that one.....

[Sebring]

I was thinking about getting an RS4 3 SS and the RSX body instead of a Nitro TC3 RTR..and was wondering..

1) Does the RSX body come with the Integra Type-R decals? HPI's site shows both RSX and Integra Type-R decals on the same sheet, but I just want to make sure.

2) The RC Car Action test of the car said it does 46.2 mph stock..any chance of it doing 50 with the aftermarket 23 tooth second gear pinion?


Thanks for anyone's time.

[KronicRacer]

you have a better chance of pulling 50 if you also upgrade the filter, header, and pipe and one of the gears. the ntc3 rtr is also a 50mph contender so take your time and carefully weigh your choices.

[Sebring]

Well, I wasn't looking so much for top end speed as I was for quality and the likes. All in all I've narrowed it down to the SS and the NTC3 RTR. I'll most likely end up going with the SS because I like to build kits, I don't like belts, and I like HPI, period. I've got a number of their kits, and parts availability never seems to be an issue, and the cars are tough.

Thanks for your help. :)

[warden141]

has both stickers,

and trust me, there are more stickers than room on the car :)


btw -the kit is great, great directions, and a solid strong car

im sure you will be happy w/ either descion

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by Sebring
Well, I wasn't looking so much for top end speed as I was for quality and the likes. All in all I've narrowed it down to the SS and the NTC3 RTR. I'll most likely end up going with the SS because I like to build kits, I don't like belts, and I like HPI, period. I've got a number of their kits, and parts availability never seems to be an issue, and the cars are tough.

Thanks for your help. :)

Just to let you know there is a kit version of the NTC3 and it is shaft drive like the SS. No belts. I find it a very decent car even though i own a RS4 3....

[KronicRacer]

the only down side to the ntc3 kit is that he will have no motor and no radio equipment. he can get a kick arse motor but that gonna be another $150-200 not inculding the starter box (if needed depending on motor). if you are not going to compete and just play... get the rs4 3.. dont get me wrong you can still get the ntc3 rtr and have fun with it.. the ntc3 rtr is built like a tank and requires minimal hopups. (2 speed):) also it has many many many configureations for future use. you can put in a rear exahust motor or a side exhaust, threaded crank or sg shaft , rotary carb or slide carb, multiple reciver packs: flat cells or hump packs. or even the four cell box. to do some of the this on the nitro 3 you have to customize here and there.....

[glock.40]

spec sheets

where can i find some spec sheets for HPI RS43 type SS?

[StrikerDTR]

whats the best spring setup for the rs4 3 SS? blue=front and white=back?

[StrikerDTR]

and also, about the red Pinion. Is it good to have both of then red or should I put one red and one purple? or one yellow and one red is the best setup?

[whtdouwnt]

Hey guys,

I just purchased a rs4 3 SS and I am having some problems and I can't seem to find the answers to them. Everything is set to the factory settings in the engine and it says that it should emit blue smoke but mine emits raw gas...alot. I also have gas coming out of the glow plug. Also, the car will not move unless its at full throttle. The trans screw is at factory specs and i can push it and it goes about 5 feet so I know the clutches are not melted. Any help would be great I'm dieing to get this running.

[fezzy]

Gas shouldn't be coming from the glow plug, Make sure that the glowplug is tight.

If its spitting out loads of raw fuel then it is too rich, Depending on how many tanks you have had through the engine lean the high speed needle 1/8 of a turn

[whtdouwnt]

I have ran 2 tanks through

[supra528]

ok, first off, you SHOULD NOT be runngin full throttle with only 2 tanks through... you sould follow the break-in instructions..... i put in about 10tanks during breakin... next, check your carb to see if the throttle body moves all the way when you go to full... do this wit the engine off. when i built an nmt for my friend, i accidently put the servo in facing the wrong way and it would barely move.... the white thing on the servo should be facing the rear... so the writing on your servo, you should be able to read it when you're facing the front of the car... well at least for the airtronics servo that came wit the nito 3. hope this helps

[StrikerDTR]

HPI Europe Forum is back. wOOt

[dumadiscount1]

hey fellow rs4 3 freaks! i got a ss... still tuning it up tho... check out hpiforums.com i think its better organised and u get ur questions answered faster

[Mustangs_r_hott]

I have some electric RCs but i want to get an nitro rc they look tight but i dont know what to start out with. i have no clue what kit to start out with that is a little on the cheap side i dont have alot of money to throw around could some one tell me what would be the best bang for the buck that is on the cheaper side?
some one pleaze help me out? Thanx

[warden141]

Originally posted by whtdouwnt
Hey guys,

Everything is set to the factory settings in the engine and it says that it should emit blue smoke but mine emits raw gas...alot. .

thats fine, you r in breakin period - 6-10 tanks
also - raw gas coming out of pipe is normal in break-in, its in the directions

Originally posted by whtdouwnt
Hey guys,
I also have gas coming out of the glow plug. .

you might be in an area that is cold, or you have played with the glow plug and messed up the gasket a little.

Originally posted by whtdouwnt
Hey guys,

I Also, the car will not move unless its at full throttle. The trans screw is at factory specs and i can push it and it goes about 5 feet so I know the clutches are not melted. .


once your done breakin it in, then you adjust the mixture per the directions, and then you will see how the car moves when you give it gas, dont worry, its all normal,

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Mustangs_r_hott
I have some electric RCs but i want to get an nitro rc they look tight but i dont know what to start out with. i have no clue what kit to start out with that is a little on the cheap side i dont have alot of money to throw around could some one tell me what would be the best bang for the buck that is on the cheaper side?
some one pleaze help me out? Thanx

you have three choices ..... rs4 3 rtr, rs4 3 type ss, and the ntc3 rtr. if you want a kit the type ss is the way to go. it has everything including the motor the only thing it doesnt have are the batteries and radio equipment. both rtr's are good the only thing they both lack is the 2 speed.

[RCRACER2471]

For all you speed freaks. Whats the highest gearing i can get on my car that the SS can handle?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by glock.40
spec sheets

where can i find some spec sheets for HPI RS43 type SS?

click here to download (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/su-n3-1.pdf)

[KronicRacer]

for all those that want to race the nitro 3 this is straight form the hpi website large prepared track setup (http://www.hpiracing.com/setups/su-n3_1.htm)

[RCRACER2471]

KronicRacer your on this thread all the time. Whats the highest gearing i can get?? Do u know?

Also i put the SS on my car. Used to have the .15fe since its the RTR version. Do you take the black drive hub off because otherwise it wont line up with the 2 speed.....You have to have a collet i thnik right....Otherwise it wont work....

[shawnhpi]

I was told that i should stick with a nova 12 PS.....

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
KronicRacer your on this thread all the time. Whats the highest gearing i can get?? Do u know?

Also i put the SS on my car. Used to have the .15fe since its the RTR version. Do you take the black drive hub off because otherwise it wont line up with the 2 speed.....You have to have a collet i thnik right....Otherwise it wont work....

the first gear yellow ones have less TEETH which gives better acceleration, the 2nd gear RED ones give HIGHER TOP speed have more teeth, and the purple ones are the stock ones. check your pm

[RCRACER2471]

I solved my engine problems. Thanx for the help.....Can you tell me specifically what tooth size for each gear. I want more on the top end......Not too concerned about acceleration

[Vmax911]

Hey guys,

I haven't been following this thread very closely all winter. But now that spring is here, it's time to pull out the On-road.

Last I heard, about the only pipe for the RS4 3 was the one from THS. Has anything new came out yet? I think it's time for an exhaust upgrade :)

[Prinler]

someone mentioned to me as i was running... oh man look ( points) hes got the crapy small manafold. Is there a much better one? rs4 3 rtr Lemme know please! hehe

[70mphrs4]

eyah go to meganitro.com you can get a ss manifold for 10$ or if you want a one piece pipe ths makes one for the nitro 3. i hope this helps.


is the GPM 4mm rs4 3 chassis good cuz it looks pretty tight

[tommy_20014]

hey shawnhpi
i was lookin through ur site and i noticed that u have a lot of aluminium parts of ur car... does all those parts add weight to ur car and slows the down??

[hardyboy]

I know I sent out a post similar to this a couple of pages back...and I recieved some helpful tips. Unfortunately they did not work.

Let me start again and maybe I can get further help on the matter.

I recieved and built my Type SS over Xmas and it shifted fine until recently. At the same time I installed a vented flywheel, racing clutch, a larger air filter and changed the purple gears to red (2nd) and yellow (1st). Now my car is staying in first gear. If I press my throttle more than halfway the car starts to feel like it is bogging down.

I have changed back to the original gears...same problem, even after trying to lean out the engine and changing the time at which the gear is supposed to change. Nothing works. I have scrapped down the 2 speed and the cam is operational when I pry it up with a screwdriver.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:confused: :confused: :confused:

[warden141]

HPI website (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=60601)

HPI site #2 (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=60538&highlight=shifting)

HPI site #3 (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=57586&highlight=shifting)

HPI site #4 (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=56863&highlight=shifting)

last one (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=60601&highlight=shifting)

diagram (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/n3ss/u-12441-1.jpg)

[hardyboy]

Respectfully....I know how the two speed works and it should work on mine even after adjusting the screw but it doesn't. i am just rying to see if it might be anything out of the ordinary.

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by Prinler
someone mentioned to me as i was running... oh man look ( points) hes got the crapy small manafold. Is there a much better one? rs4 3 rtr Lemme know please! hehe

get the HPI Aluminum one for only like $14 which is exactly waht you see on the RS4 SS. It will give your car better acceleration...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
get the HPI Aluminum one for only like $14 which is exactly waht you see on the RS4 SS. It will give your car better acceleration...

that or a tmaxx header.:)

[warden141]

was just trying to help,

next time i will keep notes on every poster, so that i know what level knowledge they are,

[Prinler]

Alright. I know the best setups for a e-maxx but i was wondering if anyone had a good rundown on the best hop-ups for the rs4 3? its got a good pipe and everything... its so slow tho. Anything i can do?

[70mphrs4]

Originally posted by Prinler
Alright. I know the best setups for a e-maxx but i was wondering if anyone had a good rundown on the best hop-ups for the rs4 3? its got a good pipe and everything... its so slow tho. Anything i can do?

you should get a 2 speed if you want it to be faster. also if your talking about the stock pipe, no offense but that sucks so that might be your problem. also if your car is slow and nothing is wrong with your stuu you should check that is tuned right. as for hop ups a carbon fiber radio tray would make it stiffer. also some aluminum steering cranks and other carbon fiber/aluminum parts that are on main parts of your car.

[Prinler]

I have a rc10gt pipe, and an aftermarket air filter... Looking to get a header thingy, and a 2 speed... how much are the 2 speed trani's?

[70mphrs4]

i have a HPI trnny but i paid to much for it and i dont know what they ae worth. ive heard that the wolfpack 2 speeds are a lot better and his 2 speed is around 50$ which is less then HPIs.

[rico750sxi]

But the wolfpack radicals needs a lot of the parts from the HPI 2 speed anyways. I would stick with the HPI one and if something goes wrong with it upgrade to the wolfpack.

[rico750sxi]

I emailed wolkpack a while ago and got this response:

OK, you need the first speed adapter, gears and the two "C" clips.
the Idea was to up date a drivers 2 speed whit the 2 shoe "associate"
2 speed parts, which lend them self perfectly for the HPI cars.

[RS4 3 Racer]

I want to know if this slide card linkage will fit on my RS4 3
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD81&P=M

[RS4 3 Racer]

I want to know if i bought good hop up parts and spent my money well RS4 3

THS Racing Tuned Pipe Set HPI RTR-3 $49.99
O.S. .15 CV-RX w/10C Slide Carb $169.99
CVEC Dual Exhaust Tubes .12-.15 Black $42.99
HPI 2-Speed Transmission Nitro 3 $57.99
HPI Silicone Exhuast Coupling $2.89
O.S. Super Air Cleaner 101 $13.49

In-Stock Items: $337.34
Surface Shipment: $12.99
Total Current Charges: $350.33

[Prinler]

do ya think the motor is nessisary??


Also how much speed do you think a 2 speed trani will add?

I have hear alot. but then again some say only 10mph.... some say 40mph can anyone give me REAL #'s? I mean if im gonna drop 50 bones for 10mph im gonna sell this pos and get a SS or something. anyone clarify this for me?