Ofna Monster Dominator

[anothermbdusted]

again NO IT IS NOT but some people wanted pics of it so i posted them.OK!?

[fezzy]

Jimr, Chill dude... Its a OFNA, Its a Truggy... We aint like T-Maxxers here, we welcome all and we are all cool... Not up tight

[anothermbdusted]

Thank you Fezzy for jumping in there.I was trying to explain to him but oh well.will post another picture of it in a while and some of the things that i have learned so far also

[anothermbdusted]

well this is what it looks like with all tires on it,I havent taken it to the track yet but i can tell you this about it.IT WILL NOT FLIP on asphalt at all even if you turn it at full speed and it can make about a 4.5'turn no problem at all goes through anything so far and accelerates pretty well although i think i am going to go down 1 maybe 2 teeth on the clutch bell but full speed is way nice!! the only problem i have seen so far is that if you are at full throttle and turn tight i mean lock it from one side to the other then it rubs against the sheilds but if you take the sheilds off then it dont rub at all. so i think im going to trim the sheilds so that it clears no problems at all. and then mount the body mounts and wait for my other parts and truck body to come in and then ill post what it looks like then.still waiting on the cnc knuckles and aluminum radio posts.

what springs are you guys/gals running on your dominator,what oils?i got the stock 9.5 springs that work well on my track as a buggy and the stock oil but i have no idea what ofna uses for oil. what weight? so i was thinking something about 35-40 weight. for that is what the tmaxx's at my track run and the buggies run 30-35 weight so i was thinking something like 35 weight as a balance between the too.

[Coconut]

Hmm,that thing looks really wide. Makes me wander how it is going to be responsive enough to steering in the dirt. let us know how it turnsin the dirt,especially in a wide fast sweeper.

[anothermbdusted]

its 15.5 inches wide and 18.75 long and will do but i dont go to the track until sunday so its going to be a week:( but got the body mounts mounted today and just waiting on the cnc knuckles now and the aluminum radio post and then i got to chose a body.still not sure what will fit it. i was looking at the proline ford f350 or the chevy extended cab one of the two.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well since it is snowing here.the reason i got the DOM was to run it in the snow(my RC10GT gets stuck in its own tracks)but i have a problem with snow piling up on the servos and freezing the throttle servo open i made a custom shield to help prevent it from happening.heres a few pics of the shield and i also put Monster Pirate wheels and tires on it.let me know what you guys think of the shield,i dont think itll affect cooling but not sure till i can run it.

pic#1

[ritchies rc10gt]

#2

[ritchies rc10gt]

#3

[ritchies rc10gt]

last one

[anothermbdusted]

good idea,when I had my electric truck i took a 3ltr shasta cut the bottom and the top off and then split the thing in half length wise and then attached it and it worked great also.I'd cover those servos in ballons if your going to be running it in the snow though so you dont short one out by accident.but nice idea ill keep it in mind for if it ever snows here in utah.:(

[RS4rally1124]

hey guys i was looking originally at a maxx but the dom looks so much better. my problem is the dom doesn't seem to have the clearence of a savage or a maxx. is the dom good for the clearence i know it jumps well from your pics.

other question should i get a dom 80% or rtr. i have a good radio but i was wondering if the hyper 21 eith the rtr and the radio are worth the $ or if it is better to get a radio and engine seporately.

also is the dom good for racing. at my local track they oppened mod maxx to all monsters. it is grerat the maxxes are constantly beet by my friends pede. they actually won't let him runn in the stock class anymore. people wined about it. but is the dom good at racing like handling ect.

thanks
JT

[fezzy]

In my experience of owning a Dominator i have realised that ground clearance isn't everything, there is a number of factors that decided how a truck should drive off-road.

Chassis Type - The Dom has a Flat-Pan chassis and is able to slide over raised objects, Where-as the Maxx chassis is shaped so that it can actually get 'caught up' on objects if they are big enough.
Power - With a .21 engine nothing compares to the torque, Not even the TRX2.5, There is no replacement for displacement. Consequently the Dom has more than enough low end grunt to pull it over the worst of terrain.
Tyres - Surface area plays a big part, all that power of a engine is no good if the tyres don't have good surface area contact, The Dom having the big MT tyres automatically makes it qualify.

These other factors make perfect sence, of course GC (Ground Clearance) plays a big part too, BUT.... I will be honest with you... The Dominator doesn't have alot of it, But thats a good thing when you think how better it handles due to a lower COG (Centre of Gravity) design, My advice to you would be (If you plan to do hardcore off-roading) is to just simply get a bigger set of wheels/tyres, there is a vareity of wheels & tyres to choose from simply get the ones that fit your budget, If you want more info on wheels & tyres that are available to your Dominator just ask.

Finally... You ask about how the Dominator does on a track eh? Well, Quite simply it is THE MOST competent racing MT on the market, NO QUESTION. Paul Coleman took 1st at the Proline Nitro Maxx Challenge this year with his 'slightly' modified Dominator, I say slightly because compared to some of the Maxx'es that where there it was crazy.... We're talking JT Racing Hybrid T-Maxx'es with RB C5's stuck in them!

If i was in your shoes i'd probably go for the 80% Version and buy a nice Radio, Like the Airtronics MX-3... Lots of 'bang for your buck' radio in that package, Then just buy a high torque steering servo and 6v Receiver Battery.. Get a servo that matches your price range, You can count on getting a Hitec HS645MG at least which is at one end of the scales, on the other there is the Airtronics '358 200oz Servo, But that is the most expensive at just over $100. It works out more money this way but you'll save alot of money in the long run and the features that your MX-3 will give you will allow much more tuneability. Personally i've only ever run bog standard 27am Sanwa Blazer Radio, Standard '102 Sanwa servo for throttle/brake, steering duties go to a Hitec HS5645MG (Digital) and the whole system is running at 6 Volts due to a 1700mah NiMH 5-Cell Re-Chargeable pack.

Hope this helped.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by RS4rally1124
hey guys i was looking originally at a maxx but the dom looks so much better. my problem is the dom doesn't seem to have the clearence of a savage or a maxx. is the dom good for the clearence i know it jumps well from your pics.
thanks
JT

take a look at the clearance mine has in the last pic .thats with monster pirate wheels and tires,stretched trinity black T-MAXX springs,inner holes on the lower arms and a few preload spacers,actually look at this one,mine has almost 3 inches of clearance

[enob-t]

How hard is it to put the Dominator kit together. I have read that the instructions are not to good. This will be my first kit, so I don't want to get in over my head. What do you think and are there any good reference material other than the OFNA instructions?

[fezzy]

If its your first you might want to ask yourself how patient you are!, If you have a reasonable ammount of patients then its safe to say it wont be any problem to you, Building mine wasn't.

The manual is aload of total rubbish, Infact i didn't even use it when finishing the truck off. For the majority anyway the truck is basically assembled for you, all you have to do is build the shocks (Which is easy with the right diagram), Attached the bodymounts (Easy Peasey), Glue the tyres which is pretty much self explanatory, Put your radio gear in (this too is easy) and finally finish your linkages WHICH is abit tricky but all you have to do is look at pictures of someones elese linkage and you say "wow, isn't that easy".

[Coconut]

Actuaaly Although it's not an associated or Losi manaul, the Pirtae EP does give a break-down on the major assemlies of the Dominator. I have to say that the Dominator is easy to work on. Since its not a kit assembly isn't really reqiuired but like most things pre-built needs attention. There are instruction s several places on how to build shocks correctly,shim diff's;if you want to switch to the Rear CVD's it's easy with right parts. The radio set-upis usually the hardest for someone new;but it basically the same for all rc trucks. Oh;the Pirate EP assembly manual comes with the Dominator beside braief Dominator manual. Unlimited engineering shockassembly;diff shomming instructions basics apply to all trucks and are comprehensive;several links in UE support form threads.

[Coconut]

In case any wants them;www.ace-hobbies.com has the pro-line/OFNA bulkheads to convert to Maxx suspension up on their site.

[anothermbdusted]

well this is what it looks like with the sides removed and the wheel base extended to the max and with the body posts.got the cnc carriers on it but Im still waiting on the knuckles they ordered the wrong part number so had to wait a few more days:( starting to wish though i had ordered the mbx front end though instead of the cnc things.got plenty of steering but can always use more i have a bit of a hard time in one area of my track thats a 180 turn but it can be done and all the tmaxx's have a hard time to so i guess im not immune to it.
went to the track yesterday night and it dont accelerate that well with the stock gearing so i bought a 12 tooth gear and it now accerates very well wont win any speed races but still keeps up with the tmaxx and thats what the aim was for.but boy do i need to stiffen the suspension up a bit it does fine down the streight aways and in the turns but i hit a jump and boy does it bottom out hard need better shock oil i guess something a little heavier.

coconut: in the high speed sweeper turn on a oval it has a tendency to oversteer a bit im sure it can be fixed because i didnt mess with any suspension adjustment like toe, camber or anything like that but im going to try doing some more testing this weekend. and will let you know what i find out.i can say this it jumps more level now and that i can smoke a tmaxx no problem at all now. at least my buddies. hes got to slow down alot in the turns and i dont because of the low center of gravity.now i just cant wait to get a body for the darn thing.

[Coconut]

Interesting anothermbdusted. After you get the dmaping springs figuerd out;if itn has too much oversteer I would suggest that you play with the ride height. lower in rear than front . Also paly with the top position of the shocks mounts probaly want stiffer springs in front to help oversteer. Just suggestions. If you can drive it now ;then just amatter of balance.

[Mook9304]

Has any one used 2 speed in a dominator? How fast does it go and is it worth it ? I have dominator with a paris picco xp-pro buggy engine on it is a15t clutch bell and it halls butt. please reply thanks RAY

[fezzy]

I'l let you know at Christmas :D

[anothermbdusted]

well i changed the oil in the shocks last night to 35 weight and checked the ride height like suggested and the rear was higher then the front so i fixxed that and ill be leaving for the track here in about an hour will let you know what i find out or break for that matter around 2pm MST.

[anothermbdusted]

Well i got some questions for you all.
1. what springs do you guys use on your doms?im using stock ones
2.what do you guys use for toe in/out front and rear?im using the stock settings
3.diff oils?im using stock
4.anti squat?I am using the 2 degree ones
The only reason why I ask this is because this truggy is way sensitive now.I mean going down the strieght away it is very sensitive to steering imput almost wants to bring the rear end around at times. I tried to increase the rear ride height a bit to compinsate for it but started to over steer again so i left it at the best setting i could find.
In the corners it now has plenty of steering thanks to the ride height adjustment that was made.
and the rear end wants to break loose in the corners like it wants to slide .kinda cool to see but if you dont watch it.it will come right around and bite you.
As for jumping I have got to gear it down a bit.got awesome speed but doesnt accerate worth a beans right now. when i do launch it it is very sensitive to throttle imput while in the air.the only problems i see is that if you land on the rear end and accelerate it wants to flip over backwards i guess a wheelie bar would help there.as for the front end if it lands on the front end the hole truck wants to flip over on its lid so i learned to make it land on the rear a little more if i can but as for the oil its about right im using 35 weight .still bottoms out on the big jumps but 40 weight is to heavy and going down the streight away it wants to bounce around alot so 35 weight seems to help out.I think I just got to try some differnt springs thinking of getting some blue springs for it and see if that helps out.although I havent tried to move the shocks around yet . but once i gear it down it should be a blast to drive.

[Coconut]

Personally;I run 0 front toe/11/2 toe-in each side in rear and then play with springs( heavier in front for for oversteer probleem) and shock oil weights until I got it settled down. Only make one change at a time. Then play with ride height at each session to see what feels good. Then of course you can paly with diff oils. Generally; more anti-squat give more rear tractionunder accelertion,but more on power steering. less gives less on-power steeringand more rear traction when the car isn't accelerating. More anti-squat can cause the truck to bounce under power. Just suggestion you might want to try. On dom. 10k front and 5k or 7k rear is pretty common from what I've seen. The of course you have a center diff. Coleman ran 30k in center of his Dominator.

[anothermbdusted]

i think that might be my problem i dont know i adjusted the wheel base to the long part which is 3mm longer and then moved the rear hubs so i was using the top hole instead of the bottom hole where the hinge pin is. maybe thats why it became so twitchy?
hey coconut do you use msn instant messenger?

[Coconut]

Afraid not. Just to also let you know Coleman was two hole pistons and 40 front and 35 rear with two hole pistons drill ed 1.3mm. A number 55 drill is about the same. That's with 9.5 shocks. Front arms level( doesn't look quite level inpictures) and dogbones level in rear. That's what RCCA says. Take a look at it inthe Dec issue and maybe start their as base line.Looks like about 10 degrees positive caster.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by Mook9304
Has any one used 2 speed in a dominator? How fast does it go and is it worth it ? I have dominator with a paris picco xp-pro buggy engine on it is a15t clutch bell and it halls butt. please reply thanks RAY




im running the 2 speed in mine.i dont know how fast it is yet cuz i cant get the engine tuned right,i actually gave up on it for a while cuz i got a NTC3 and been busy building it.but im takin the dom to the LHS to have it tuned,the guy there treats me very good and is the best at tuning .21s.ill let you know how it is after its tuned

[anothermbdusted]

where can i get the differnt pistons for the shocks?do they sell a kit of them or something?well it looks like my body will be here in the next couple of days cant wait. going to try pauls setup to see if it works for me and if not it gots to be close right.so ill give that a shot and see.until then happy driving....

[Coconut]

Ace-hobbies or nitrohouse will have the springs. Ifyou are not going to make a taller tower and run rear shocks on the front that will be a handicap from what I have seen. Kind of like the MP. You may endup running stronger springs to keep from bottomimg out but hurt handling.

[NitroRookie]

I'm leaning totally towards getting a Dominator RTR and then Getting the New Pro-Line Dom Bulkheads for the Pro-Line Maxx Suspension System and all the other parts required to complete the conversion. Now the question is.

Would you guys be happy with a Nitro R/C like that ?

P.S. If even 25 out of 50 guys here say that they would love a truck like that. Then that is the truck I will get.

[fezzy]

Are you kiddin? I'm already saving up the pennies :D

[Nitromethane]

Here's mine:

Racer X
Pro Line Hybrid Bulks
SaBR Titanium Extended Chassis
Sabr Ti Plates
UE Steel CVD's
Collari XS2200
Collari 069 pipe
Aluminum Diff housings

Waiting on:
Center Diff
Rear brakes setup
Shocks
Wheels
etc.......

http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/racer1.jpg
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/racer2.jpg
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/racer3.jpg

[anothermbdusted]

coconut: the front end shocks dont even come close to maxing out when it bottoms out. still got like almost a 1/4 inch befor they do so. i dont think that it will be a problem with the shocks.as for springs i have got a set of blues on their way but i was wondering where you can get the shock pistons?i got the stock ones but thats it. is that all that available?
nitromethane:very nice tmaxx killer how wide is that thing?

[fezzy]

You can quite easily mod the stock H7 Shockpistons to get more flow of oil, Its a matter of how soft you like it but personally i run this setup:

Kysoho Long Whites - Front
Kyosho Long Blues - Rear
Both Shock Piston Holes Enlarged with 1/16" Drill Bit (F/R)
50wt F/R

Its pretty soft.. You may want to just enlarge one of the holes in the pistons and try a 25wt. Go from there.

[anothermbdusted]

so the kyosho springs will work on a 9.5 shock system?i got some friends that got kyoshos that i could experment with but only if the blues i got on order dont work

[fezzy]

Sorry, I thought you meant the H7 Shocks... Don't know if they'll fit the 9.5 Shocks, Sorry.

[anothermbdusted]

np fezzy?thanks for the imput though.

[Coconut]

I haven't check on different piston but I just do the same as I did with electric trucks. You will noticethat FColeman drilled both holes to 1.3mm. I drilled mine with a number 55 drill bit by hand. Tha's very close to 1.3mm. I got use to using the number drill bits when racing Losi electric.I'm sure that ofna does make different pistons as it is their top race buggy. Be careful about the 2.5mm nut on top of the piston it can come loose. I put a small drop of red locktite on the shaft threads. It's easy to get off as all you have to do is put a nut on rod-end of shaft an unscrew. The T Maxx cross wrench fits and can be put on piston nut to put the rod-ends on when shaft is in shock body too. Makes it easy to hold the shaft.

[anothermbdusted]

thanks for that info coconut was very helpful now i just got to get a #55 drill bit. should have the springs and body and clutch bell tomorrow so hopefully by the end of the week i can post a picture of it for you all.the wife kept looking at my buggy and so i asked her WHAT! and she came back and said she wants one so maybe i can get one earlier then i thought:)

[Philly's Finest]

when i got my dom i got a used hyper .21. i like a silly ass messed with the "DONT TOUCH ME" screw on the carb. but that was before i read about never messing with it. anywho i got it to start once w/ some fuel through the filter hole but haven't got it to start again.

then i got a 2nd used hyper but this thing is coated in rust even inside the engine & it won't start. i just got a 24.7 but it's too cold to break it in here. well now i can't get the engine mounting blocks lined up correctly and it's killing me. the gear mesh has gone to hell. when i tighten up the bolts past a certain point the blocks slide over a hair and foul the whole thing up.

any tips on installing a new engine already mounted on the blocks? or a way to get the right gear mesh.

[fezzy]

Here is an idea you might like to try, First take a long strip of paper and fold it down 2 or 3 times so that it becomes pretty thick, Then slide it in between the mesh of the clutchbell/spur and tighten your bolts, If the engine does move then the paper should only flex TO A POINT and prevent the bell from moving further.

What i tend to also do is this, Set my bolts reasonably tight before i alter the besh and with abit of brute force bang on either side of the engine, this should prevent it from slipping alot more when you tighten down the bolts. You'll soon get a feel for how much of a thump you have to give it to move it the ammount you want, it depends how tight you put your engine mounts to begin with.

[anothermbdusted]

i know i dont have a dominator but they are all the same for mounting them and what i did on mine is to monuts the engine to the blocks first leaving it a little loose then tighten the piss out of the ones on the bottom of the chassis while holding my thumb against the clutch bell so it does not move and then go back after you have tightened those and align the engine block to the gear mesh and tighten them down and all should be good .and if it still slides is it the chassis thats causing it to slide? if so put some locktite/silicon down where it slips let it dry and then try it.will act like sand paper holding it in one place.

[anothermbdusted]

I GOT THE BODY!!!!:) and my post and the clutch bell now i just got to figure out how to get the clutch bell off thats all but i think i got a idea how to.going to get the paint in a bit .

[pcjr]

On a high speed run, once I release my throttle to coast the truck to a stop, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging. Instead of the truck rolling freely to a stup, the sounds like the engine revvs and slows the truck really fast.

good comparison is when you shift a car to 2nd gear and let go of the clutch and gas pedal, the engine of the car revvs and the engine acts like brakes & slows the car down.

Can some1 tell me if i'm having clutch trouble? I really appreciate any help. thanks.:( :confused:

[Philly's Finest]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I got it all set up. Put some double sided tape under the right block. Did the trick!So now it's time for breakin of my new xtm. But it's pullstart is very fincky & 247 doesn't like alot of fuel so I want to bump start her.

Will throwing it on a bump box to break it in hurt the engine in any way?

[anothermbdusted]

i broke my engine in on a starter box after the first two tanks that is.got tired of doing the knuckle busting thing and got a box so i wouldnt have to do it any more and my engine runs fine.its a .25 though.

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by pcjr
On a high speed run, once I release my throttle to coast the truck to a stop, it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging.

It sounds like your idling too high. Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? You might want to check that the gap is around 1mm.

[anothermbdusted]

ok well it dont got any stickers on it but at least the body is mounted and painted.;)

[Nitromethane]

Thanks another!

It's around 16" wide in that pic, but that was with stablemaxx wheels. When I run it for racing, I'm going to be running stock offset wheels and get my width down to 15"

[Nitromethane]

Hey another,
I haven't kept up with the whole thread but in the pic you just posted, by looking at the engine mounts and fuel tank, is that a Monster Blazer?

Looks nice by the way!!

[anothermbdusted]

hey nitro thats how wide mine is.whats the length if you dont mind posting it that is. thanks
no but thank you for the comment on it.its a ofna 9.5 that i have been converting

[Nitromethane]

The wheelbase is 13 5/8"

OK the 9.5, basically an upgraded MB. We have now adapted the MP 2 speed to fit in the Ultra series and possibly the center of the 9.5.

Here is my MB with a MP 2 speed with lightened steel spurs and a bunch of other goodies.....
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/MBRV1.jpg
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/MBRV2.jpg
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/MBRV3.jpg
http://nitromethane1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/MBRV4.jpg


Any other pics of your 9.5?

[anothermbdusted]

you tell me what picture you want and ill take it.i got some but i only have a 1 megapixal camera so detail isnt the greatest when i get really close

[Nitromethane]

Just one from the top with the lid off would be cool.

[anothermbdusted]

there is a shot on page 11 of it if you want it zoomed in a bit closer let me know of where at.if for the center diff let me know will do my best for ya ok

[anothermbdusted]

got the body painted and mounted and now just waiting for some things in the mail and thats it.(springs,rear cva's) now I just got to get a bumper for the front end and the rear.my chassis is starting to get scratched up in the front end because of the cement curbs so i got to get one that will protect the chassis a bit but still light and easy to mount(got dremal if needed) any ideas on one?

[anothermbdusted]

what is the overall gear ratio of the dominator?:D

[anothermbdusted]

Ok I found a great deal on a new used dominator locally and i need to know what is the weak spots in it and how much will it cost to fix it?i know i could look for it in the forums but wil take a while to look it up please help quick!!!!if it is easy im going to sell my 9.5 fast

[Coconut]

Put a set of front cvd's in rear ;long drive-cups all around,CNC knuckles;Lunsford 1/8th turnbuckles ( you have to buy individally);shimm the diff's. That will get you started. Sabr ext chassis will make it more stable in air,and towers will be stronger.

[anothermbdusted]

well if i cant win my race tomorrow or at least come in 2nd or 3rd out of the 10 trucks im going to sell my 9.5 and buy it tomorrow night.$240 and only two weeks old.We got like 7 tmaxx's and 1 savage and then 1 terra crusher and then my 9.5 project that plan on racing tomorrow.should be fun got to post another picture of it for ya all to see soon been running pretty dang good so far at the track will see how it races tomorrow.

[fezzy]

Coconut, I have non of the things you mentioned and My Dominator has run reliably and consistant for over 5 months.

[anothermbdusted]

Well I didnt come in first but I did third and the only reason why that was is because the turn marshel didnt get to the truggy fast enough had about a 30 foot lead and went nose first over on the jump landing me on my lid...I qualified 1st though and we had 8 tmaxx's and 4 savages and 1 terra crusher and a dominator that was running and out of that the top 10 raced 6 tmaxxes 2 savages the dominator and then mine the dominator won and was impressive in jumping and speed but i could keep up at least .the only problem i had was over the jumps and that will come with time as for cornering we were neck and neck most of the way. hes got his driving skills with it pretty good and i got to work on mine but i think i can win him once in a while if i can land all my jumps right.as for handling i want to change the front end to the mbx style and see if that helps out the front end steering a bit.nothing wrong with current set up except i have to use a little end point adjustment so the wheels dont hit the arm but very minor to say the least but going to try and trade or buy the front end mbx stuff and then go for the win next time.....

[Coconut]

Sounds to me like your geetting a handle on that thing. Why change when your starting to get a handle on setting that thing up. Changing vehicles often looking for that "hot set-up of the moment" is seldom successful from what I've seen. I don't think there is a substitution for practice and knowing your vehicle so you can set it up for conditions. Have fun.

[anothermbdusted]

oh im having fun allright just need a bit more torque to accerate out of the coners harder thats all and was looking into the mbx style suspension so i have that extra security of knowing that my wheels not going to brake off or the arm brake because of it hitting the inside wheel thats all but im using the same setup that coleman used but with 40W all around and 2 degrees of toe instead of 3 in the rear and its hooking up pretty well so far....just need a better bumper for the front and rear thats all mainly the rear to protect rear assembly from hits while driving and ill be set

[NSBD 1]

Im starting with a clean slate no racer but my MadForce play toy.
The word is next year that my comp will be 3 JT hybrids and the dreaded one running JT hybrid RB C5 and UE racer x suspension.
Now the question is what can I do to compete (ON A BUDGET)
I was thinking Truggy or Dom but what possiblie am I going to need to do to compete?
Give me some low buck Ideas....
The track is hard Pack 2 190 foot straights and large Maxx sized jumps triples step ups and gaps.. Track size is about 190 x 120 feet I need Fast agile on a budget.. I have no starting point yet. sold off my Maxx racer to start over...
:confused:

[Coconut]

well,Coleman beat the JT's with some very good driver's with his Dominator;so it depends on your driving. I personally would chose a engine that is smoother and gets better mialge than the C5 for the mains. A Sabr chassis will make the Dominator a moren stable jumpern for the less than Pro driver. The best equipment in the world isn't going to amke-up for good set-up for condiitons or practice.

[anothermbdusted]

if you got a 1/8th scale buggy then id say do a truggy ive been doing well with mine so far if not then get a dominator i drove one the other day and i liked it alot but i think my truggy handled better but i think that is because i drive mine more

[anothermbdusted]

almost done with it. will be tomorrow night i hope.

[Geek Monster]

What is up I'am a new member and I own a ofna dominator and love to talk about nitro monster trucks got to go now I will be checking in regular see ya:D

[fezzy]

Welcome to our growing little Dom/MP Community here on RCZ :).

Ran my Dom with the 2-Speed, Today... Needs some final adjustments before i can full appreciate the speed it has to offer, your engine has to be tuned perfect for it to make use of it!

[Geek Monster]

i don't understand why it says i can't post new theards? /HELP i just signed up yesterday also i would like to know how to add the location to profile THANKS!!

[Coconut]

Since it's the vehicle forum they don't want multiple threads on the same vehicle ;I believe. It's like that on most vehicle forums.

[Geek Monster]

I figured out how to update my profile / I am going to try to get some pics of my dominator on here in moring / is there anybody here in central fla racing dominators if so where and when?:)

[Super<S>Man]

guys im really stuck here. i have a brand new dom with an ofna 8-port that i cant get started for my life if any of you have any advise plz help.:(
thnx
here is the thread that desrcibes my problem(s)......
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110021

[Coconut]

I suggest that you go to www.maxxtraxx.com and the big block forum. At the top is a thread about the hypers. Can you turn the engine over with the box and the spark plug out. If not you have a problem with the fit of piston to sleeve(pinch problem) and I would call OFNA. Make sure your not flooding it by too open needles. If it turns over several timesand locks ;that can be the problem. On the 4 port most seem to have found the factory break-in setting way too rich. Read the thread.

[anothermbdusted]

YEEHA I WON!!!!! had 5 tmaxxes and 2 savages and then myself and won..mine handles better but i dont got much speed though...But the only problem I'm going to have now is that the track owner just bought a savage and well he's got a picco 4 port in it and well it screams in a practice race against him he blows me away because of the power it puts out compared to mine.So i figure it like this next month I get my saftey bonus from work and I'm going to buy a engine and a new exhaust for it..I'm looking into the ws7 but been told that I wont be able to rev it up fast enough because of it being a short track is this true does anyone know?what would be a good choice. if not the ws7 what would you say to beat or match the power out put of a picco 4 port or a novarossi rex engine(blue head thats all i know about it).and alot of hyper 8 ports and the orignal hyper engine?( I really dont want another Ofna based engine either.and got $750 to spend for the engine and the exhaust and header..and a new radio thats fm...

[Coconut]

I suggest that you look at the OSRZ-V01B(P). It is reaaly easy to tune and needles are not as critical. It has great lowend and a very usable power band. For the pipethe one piece RB 086 is good but the pipe is thin and dents easily. I oredred a THS one piece from Tower that I have heard good things about and is cheaper. If I was getting a radio;I'd have to go the new 3PK Futaba with PCM. The HRC is nice but I don't really like ditigal servo currently available that you have to use with. The TX can operate on FM or PCM;so getting a HCR RX later is no problem. If your track is short and tight work on gearing. That engine won the off road worlds. many of the hotter engines do not have a good power band and may look good down the straight but are hard to control smoothly.

[anothermbdusted]

how much is that OS engine or do you got a link for it?correct me if i am wrong please. but i heard something one time and dont know if it is true or not..I heard that os engines are great and that the carbs are the best in the bussiness but they have to be rebuilt on a regular basis because of the soft materails they use ...were talking a rebuild after like 2 gallons where as the RB's I have read can go like 8 gallons with proper care.how true is it about the OS???

[anothermbdusted]

I think i might have found my problem possibly with my engine why it dont got alot of bottom end torque or speed possibly....took off the air filter to replace it with one of those long ones that goes to the front shock tower and so i decided to check the carb openings at idle and wide open and low and behold the linkage needed to be adjusted to open it all the way.Still had about1.5-2 MM to full open.the way i measured that is by putting a allen wrench into the opening...will this make a big differce you think?will it need retuned now?cant run till morning so im excited and hope it will make a difference in the way it performes

[Coconut]

I have talked to sveral buggy guys about the different engines they use. The WS7 and the OS both have ABS pistons and sleeves so wear is the same ;depending on how they are run and maintained. The OS has better low-end and the WS7 better top-end. The OS is said to be much easier to tune and find the sweet spot. SWome of the cheaper OS engines do not have ABS piston and sleeves because of expense of chroming the sleeves in Japan because of environmental laws from what I understand. I am also told that the S7 is evry bit as good as the WS7 and that the coatoing is not woth the price of the WS7.

[toddzilla]

ya know, you could just get an ofna 8-port hyper piston/sleeve and a high quality tuned pipe for about 120 bucks... i know it's not going to be as good as a super high output "racing" engine, but it is a hell of alot less $$ and probably would be enough to get you to keep up with the savage.



remember, having a faster car means nothing unless you can control it.

[fezzy]

Your having problems out-running a Savage? There is a problem there, My Dom with 4-Port Hyper and 14/62 gearing was WAY faster than a Savage i raced against, faster than a 2.5 Maxx too... Now i have a 2-Speed I am looking to go even faster, And you have a 2-Speed too.

[Coconut]

The thing is that most of the guys running T Maxxes are not running stock T Maxxes. They have stripped all weight possible and many are running four shock set-up, Chassis with tank moved and forward only. At topend they are faster than a 4 port hyper and get their fast. I'm sure he is talking about these 8lb racing Maxxes and not you stock or overweight bashing maxxes. A 2 speed without a slipper really does not hold-up very well in racing even with the steel gears. The problem with the truggy conversions mostly has to do with the gearing with the big tires. That's the problem the HCR mutant has with the hyper 7 center diff. I agree on the Savage. Even if you change engines;it has no adjustmets other than toe and if you lower it for racing the camber can't be adjusted. It also weighs 11lb8oz ;so it's heavy in stock form.

[anothermbdusted]

well I do have a little problem with the gearing at the moment but not much..I have on order from ace right now a 50T metal spur upgrade from the 46T that it came with I'm sure this will help out quite a bit...i also ordered 10k,30k weight diff oil and just ordered the K&N air filter for it also.....

If anyone ask the reason what the long tube is for....heres the answer: I saw someone do this earlier in a post so i figure i would see if it helped out at all...and the only thing i can see right now is that it has added a little weight to it..makes a great handle to pick truggy up, I think that it will provide more fresh cool air for the engine but not sure....

As for the tmaxx thing some of these things are stock two are not they have alot of hop ups on them no JT's here or HRC's but nice tmaxx's though,as for the savages they are stock except the gearing i guess because i saw a bone stock one and all the others were stomping on it..as for the dominator well he is my biggest competitor right now untill the hobby shop owner gets his running and then i fore see my future in second or thrid alot until i get something better or more top end and bottom end but i think that the 50t will help out alot..as for top end porting looks to be the only other alternitive right now until i get a new motor if i decide to after the porting job that is... heres a picture of what it looks like now..sorry so long

[anothermbdusted]

it is not a light little truggy it weighs in at 9.2 lbs according to the usps scales with fuel and body and all

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by fezzy
Welcome to our growing little Dom/MP Community here on RCZ :).

Ran my Dom with the 2-Speed, Today... Needs some final adjustments before i can full appreciate the speed it has to offer, your engine has to be tuned perfect for it to make use of it!

is yours shifting right?mine wont shift out of 1st.could you give me a ballpark idea on where to set the adjustment screw?i got mine all screwed up,i had it shifting once but it was too quick so i tried to adjust it and messed it all up.


i also have a problem,my truck keeps destroyiing clutchbell bearings.after im done running all i have left is the outer races of the bearings,the rest of them is gone!the clutch was getting real hot so i switched to a 4 shoe clutch but it is still getting really hot.is there a vented flywheel i can buy(provide part# and manufacturer name please)or vented 2 speed clutchbell,is there a way i can add cooling vents to these parts without ruining them?

[fezzy]

I don't really know what to suggest, I turned mine out about half a turn from the stock setting and it was round about right, And I don't fancy fiddling with it just to see where its at, its very sensitive.

About the clutchbell bearings.... What engine are you running?

[ritchies rc10gt]

im running the ofna picco O1 comp

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by fezzy
I don't really know what to suggest, I turned mine out about half a turn from the stock setting and it was round about right, And I don't fancy fiddling with it just to see where its at, its very sensitive.

About the clutchbell bearings.... What engine are you running?


i know its very sensitive,thats why mine is messed up.do you know the stock setting on it.the instructions for mine dont say how many turns it is set at

[fezzy]

Sorry, I don't have a stock setting either.. I was referring to how it came from the factory.

Running such a powerful motor may explain you problem, Here is an article MAXXXED Did not too long ago.

As you've discovered, OFNA really does not believe in instructions, and leave it up to you to do their R&D.
You'll need to pickup some additional items to setup the clutchbell correctly, or you'll be blowing clutchbell bearings and stripping spur and clutchbell gears constantly.
First item, is an HPI #B046 5x8 clutch needle bearing. Second item is an OFNA #10099 clutch bell shim kit.
OFNA doesn't tell you that the installation kit they supply you with is the same as for the single speed clutchbell, which won't work!
If the entire length of the two speed gearset is not supported, the side load placed on the clutchbell bearings will explode them quickly, causing the clutchbell to wobble violently and pull away from the spur gears, stripping them the instant that the clutchbell bearings let go.
HPI knows this, I don't know why OFNA is so mindless as to not let the customer know about it.
I did a post on this awhile back, but here's a pic to help you set it up properly.
You will also need to find a hardened M3 extra long screw and cut it down to fit.
First install the bearings into the clutchbell. I don't know why they gave you four, but you only need two, one in the clutchbell, and one on the thread on side. Instead of the HPI needle bearing, you can also "stack" 5x8 bearings on the end of the SG shaft, but I've found that the HPI needle bearing is much more bulletproof. The C4 grenaded the stacked bearings in about 10 minutes, but it has never destroyed the HPI needle bearing.
Put a shim on the end of the clutchnut to prevent binding against the inner bearing installed in the clutchbell.
The second pic with the pencil points to the area to add shims to.
Next, slide the clutchbell onto the SG shaft without the two speed gearset. Next, you will need the shaft extenders that are in the OFNA #10099 kit. Here's where it gets a little tricky. One extender is too short. You'll need to use one extender, and cut down a second one to fit the needle bearing until it turns freely without any front to back freeplay. What you're trying to accomplish, is to extend the SG shaft to accomodate the HPI needle bearing.
To finish it off, you'll need an extra long, hardened M3 screw. Look for the black oxide finished, hardened screw. The Kyosho M3 hex screws work well.
Don't use the shiny stainless steel screws. They are soft and will strip slightly and unscrew from the vibration, causing all kinds of problems.
You'll need to cut down the length of the screw on a bench grinder or with a file for a perfect fit. Before final assembly, use shims as necessary to make sure there is no front to back freeplay.
I've run the Hyper with the two speed delrin gears for over a year with this setup, and had no problems. I'm pretty brutal on my MP. It survived jumps, constant full throttle off road thrashing, and major crashes, endos, and barrel rolls with no problems.
It's a lot of work, but if setup properly, will insure a trouble free, reliable two speed tranny!

[fezzy]

#2

[fezzy]

#3

[NitroRookie]

What are your guys thoughts on the new Ofna Dominator Extreme Kit ?

[Coconut]

Personally:I am not a aluminum fan ;unless absolutely necessary. Those bulks are heavy;I have one on my front and intend to mill it out some. Same with the arms. I do think if you never going to race ;it will make a good basher. I also amnot a two spped fan on the Dominator;but that's just me. I personlly think that a guy could come out with a better truck by buying the MP roller at stormer for $130.00 ;then add motor;better clutch;rear cvd;Ti turnbuckles; better pipe and sabr ti plates and towers;better tires. Most changes most of those anyway before long.

[anothermbdusted]

anyone needing a manuel for the dom?ofna just put them in pdf form on their website along with alot of other ofna vehicles

[skelator]

can anyone tell me the top speed of a stock dom.

thanks.

[Skribble]

38MPH; 1-speed. According to RCCA that is.

[anothermbdusted]

hey ill let everyone here know later this week how a ported ofna .25 is....i sent it off the other day.cant wait to see the difference it makes....If i dont like it then ill go with a completly new engine but i figure it was cheaper to do this then buy a new one.....

[neerg]

i how do i stop from breaking my rear cva? i replaced the dog bones with the dominator front cva,s and put on the longer drive cups and i'm still breaking them. no on power landings and no big jumps wheels spin free shafts are not binding .anyone have any sugestions?this truck is getting to be more expensive than my t-maxx!!!

[Coconut]

Only thing I can think of is to check that nothing is touching the tires when they ballon-up. Did you check for binding by removing the shocks first and check full extention.

[mercenario27]

I Just finished rebuilding my rearend to my Dominator. I repacked my diff real tight with grease so that its almost locked out. I got a set of CVDs and long drive cups. Powerline body post and lower rear arms (their products are soso). SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) Rear Shock Tower.

[mercenario27]

Picture 1

[mercenario27]

picture 2

[mercenario27]

Originally posted by fezzy
You can convert any buggy intro a 'truggy' but it just requires thought and some skill on getting parts to fit.

ANYTHING can be fitted to ANYTHING on ANY RC Truck/Car, its just a matter of know-how.


SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) makes Tmaxx hubs for 1/8 scale cars.

[Meesh]

I am now offering a drill start conversion for the HYPER .21 pull start engines. I have enough parts to do 10 engines so the first folks to E:mail me at bemichaud@attbi.com and say they want the conversion get on the list. Price is $30.00 plus shipping. I can accept PayPal or Money Orders, no personal checks. This is what I need:

Send me you recoil starter assembly including the shaft that goes into the engine. I will modify the parts so that the motor can be started with an electric drill using a 6mm hex driver. If you don't feel comfortable taking things apart, send me the complete engine. Be aware that with the MP or Dominator you will have to raise the engine up 1/8th inch or more to give a straight shot to the hex drive from the back of the truck.

Any questions you can call me at 978-681-0946
http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/18427169.jpg

[fezzy]

Meesh, You said you'd E-Mail me remember when you posted up on Midmad for the first time....

I'm Domatrix UK

[Meesh]

E:mail has been sent.

[anothermbdusted]

Hey i got my ported engine back today and will let you all know how good it is tonight....cant wait:) :D :p :cool:

[anothermbdusted]

This is no joke at all.....I got my .25 engine ported...the engine now has alot more torque and higher top end then befor and it runs way cooler now also....I was about to give up on getting my truggy to run porperly w/o burning up clutches on a regular basis and now I must say that with the engine being ported and the new gearing I think I will be able to run it no problems at all...but just in case. i have the center diff for the MP on the way so i know after that ill be doing some mods possibly but ill also be doing wheelies:D more then likly also :D

[anothermbdusted]

hey i have a chance to trade my 9.5 for a nice MP with center diff do you think it would be worth the trade?i want a dominator but they are almost the same arnt they and he has a mp he'll trade that has the proline tmaxx bulk head conversion hell trade also.one or the other i posted one picture of it in the MP forum

[Mook9304]

Here is a pic of my dominator!

[Mook9304]

Here is the body of my dominator

[Mook9304]

One more.

[Coconut]

looks nice;but I'd ditch that air filter . They work good in a real vehicle but not on Rc engines;especially off road. Get something like a 1/8th RB filter or even the stock filter/oiled will work better.

[mercenario27]

He does have a point. they were ment for real car appications. If you goto the K&N website there is no references to Radio Control vehicles. stay with a motor saver or even the stock filter. plus I don't think they would hold up to the abuse of rc racing/bashing. The element is a paper filter that was ment to be cleaned every 2,000 miles or 2 months not every day. that is why they have a million mile warranty

[Mook9304]

This filter in real applications is used in monster truck,baja trucks/buggys rally cars etc.So your clams on this filter shiznit.Further more I've abused my dominator with filter as well as my brother with his mad force and it has held up well to the abuse.

[Jasio18]

Originally posted by mercenario27
The element is a paper filter that was ment to be cleaned every 2,000 miles or 2 months not every day. that is why they have a million mile warranty


Not really....the real K&N air filter is made up of plastic fibers. Than, there is a heavy coat of oil to gather up the particles. It only needs to be cleaned about 2 times a year (or whenever the oil evaporates) and the plastic fibers let more air in due to less resistance....they are as good (if not better) than normal paper filters....:D

my 2 cents

...got K&N installed on my taurus...makes the car sound like it has an intake at high RPM

[Philly's Finest]

Does anyone's Dom wheelie? If so what motor & clutch bell are you using?

[Coconut]

The car filters are madeup of cotton fibers and they work well there. But Rc engines need better filtering because the fine dirt these air breather filters sold as Rc air filters let thru is like putting sand into a full size car engine. Take a cotton swab and swab the carb throat after running off-road with one. That's why you never see one on any of the top drivers engines in RC. Oh well;live and learn.

[Mook9304]

Here is another pic of the dominator body

[Mook9304]

I think I got it in there this time!

[beasstofa25o]

how fast is the dominator, will it wheelie?

[PCC]

Originally posted by Mook9304
This filter in real applications is used in monster truck,baja trucks/buggys rally cars etc.So your clams on this filter shiznit.Further more I've abused my dominator with filter as well as my brother with his mad force and it has held up well to the abuse.

Really? I bought a used Ultra GT some time ago that had one of those filters on the P4 engine. This from a guy who is religious about keeping his RC equipment well maintained and lubed.

Upon disassembly of the engine I found that the fine dust it let in coated most of the inside of the crank and block. The PO never opened the engine to see this so he did not know that he was damaging his engine with that air filter. I threw it in the trash and bought the standard OFNA one.

But, hey, what do I know? It's your engine, run what you like.

[NSBD 1]

Hey guys what Clutch and flywheels are you useing. Ive been told the Mugen 40MM (purple) or the duratax 4 shoe is the way to go.
What do you have and your thoughts on it...

[beasstofa25o]

....again...how fast is the dominator? and can it wheelie? jesus christ you obviously own one, why wouldnt you reply? im really strapped for time here

[mercenario27]

its 40+mph. no it doesn't wheelie. Being able to wheelie doesn't mean a truck is powerfull, just that its under geared. Who wants a truck you can't control because the wheels are always off the ground.

[NSBD 1]

wheelies are over rated. Now on with my clutch question.. thank you

[PCC]

Actually, truggies have too low of a center-of-gravity to wheelie. T-Maxxes, Savages, Mad Forces, and such have a high center-of-gravity and will wheelie much easier. They also flip over easier than a truggy will. A truggy will handle a lot better because of the low center-of-gravity.

A powerful engine and lowered gearing will allow a Monster Pirate or a Dominator to wheelie. There's someone on the Monster Pirate forums who claims that he had seen a stock Monster Pirate wheelie but the engine was ported, or something like that.

BTW, Monster Pirates and Dominators are truggies, if you are wondering what a truggy is.

[Mook9304]

My dominator has a paris picco xp pro buggy engine with a 14 tooth bell and the tires just spin when it,s running. I love truck and I am going to install a two speed tranny then I will realy fly.

[Coconut]

Originally posted by NSBD 1
wheelies are over rated. Now on with my clutch question.. thank you

The mugen purple works very well with the Dominator. The gold OFNA spings seem to hold-up better than the 1.1 Mugen springs if your going to use Mugen aluminum shoes. The Mugen composite shoes work good and are alot less maintenance than the aluminum. I've also heard good things about the feroni turbo sliding clutches;but never try them myself. if you using any high HP engine then you don't want a clutch that slips too much as you'll be burn them up quick. Never seen or heard anything about using the Duratraxx clutch on the dom/MP.

[Poindexter]

Anyone here race their Dom or jump it excessively with a 2-speed? Is it better to stick with the single-speed slipper? I've got both, but I stripped the Delrin gears in my 2-speed (the larger one) inside of two heats (I ran the first heat and my truck was haulin'!). A friend loaned me his steel gear-equipped two speed, but the gearing was taller, and there was a lot of "messhing" noise coming from the gears.

Can the two-speed with Delrin gears be made to work properly without stripping (with correct gear mesh)? TIA!

[Coconut]

You might want to check a earlier repost by Fezzy either here or MP forum on putting a roller bearing in the 2 speed because of stripping problems. I'm really not convinced that using steel spur doesn't just transfer stress to another part of the drivetrain;but many use it.

[T-Maxxahol]

does anyone know if any aftermarket bumpers are available for the dom I need a bumper set.. thanks fishgeek25@comcast,net

[fezzy]

http://www.grumpytom.com/Pictures/MonsterPirate/Lexan/bumpers.html

The only bumpers you'll ever need, truck savers..

[Coconut]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Anyone here race their Dom or jump it excessively with a 2-speed? Is it better to stick with the single-speed slipper? I've got both, but I stripped the Delrin gears in my 2-speed (the larger one) inside of two heats (I ran the first heat and my truck was haulin'!). A friend loaned me his steel gear-equipped two speed, but the gearing was taller, and there was a lot of "messhing" noise coming from the gears.

Can the two-speed with Delrin gears be made to work properly without stripping (with correct gear mesh)? TIA!

Some say that when jumping they have run the two speed with steel gear succesfullyy,but I personally like a slipper. When you run steel gears you usaully have to change the clutch and spur gears at same time because of wear of steel to steel. You can check past repost by Fezzy on using a HPI roller bearing with two speed on Dominator forum;might help. In MHO when you run without a slipper it transfers the stress that slipper would have absorbed to other parts of drivetrain. Even the buggies that run a center diff that absorbs somewhat blow diff's sometimes. Just a part of racing to them.

[guswiththemugen]

Has anyone had trouble with there diffs? Specifically the front. My Dominator has wrecked its front diff and i havent even broken the thing in yet. I havent given it full throttle and the engine is still too rich to rev at a good speed. Have i copped a dud or is this a problem. Should i rebuild the rear diff incase that has been badly assembled?

[fezzy]

My rear diff has gone, But that was because of my LHS's incoptence to hear the rear diff unloading. It is common for them to be prone to weakness unless they have been shimmed, Have you actually taken the diff apart to make sure nothing is loose? Have you checked the grub screws on the diff drivecups haven't come loose?

[guswiththemugen]

Honestly, i put the shocks together, glued the tyres and did the throttle-brake linkages and started to brake it in. My other car is a MBX-4XRWorks which was comlete kit form and spent a long time assembling it and when i picked up this dominator as a R.T.R kit i thought it would be ready to run, silly me! I have rebuilt the rear diff using the same silicone diff oil i use in my MBX, 1,000 in the rear and will use 5,000 in the front when its replaced. Im getting the feeling this thing needs to be pulled to pieces and built like a kit, is that what you guys are doing? All my experience is with kit 1/8th buggies and have never delt with ready to run cars before. I would rather rebuild it as i have never had a problem with my mugens which cop abuse i would never deal out to a monster truck. Thanks for the help.

[Coconut]

yep;you got it. Basically;alot of RTR are made that way in my opinion because of the expense and time it takes to supply a manual at the level that Associate and Losi do. The translated manuals really leave alot to be desired. As competitive as Monster trucks are now for market share;they also leave out alot of stuff that should be standard such as universal or CVD axles mant times. Dogbones in my opinion have no place in vehicles with alot of suspension travel. I think that most are hoping that Associated ;who is spending alot of time developing their truck; will correct the trend of throwing these trucks out without the correct length shoks;no turnbuckles;two speeds with no slipper;Dog bones in rear or all around that just break or come out with long suspension travel and poor or no manuals. It took awhile when the nitro touring car market boomed for someone like Serpent to take it to the quality stage and hopefully that's what the Associated will do. So I'm not on the bandwagon of "hurry it up associated" It may take a team version to do it but hopefully,Associated will do it. Just my opinion. Oh by the way. You might want to use something heavier like 10k front and 5k rear as these trucks have heavy tires.

[guswiththemugen]

As this is my first monster truck i gotta ask why you would use a heavier oil in the rear? With buggies you usually use grease or a light oil in the rear and much heavier in the front.(centre diff having the heaviest.) Another thing i noticed is how thick the shock oil was that was supplied with the kit, might be good for jumps but i would think it would make it pretty unstable at high speeds on anything but smooth terain. Thanks again.

[guswiththemugen]

FEZZY FOR P.M!
You cant put a price on experience and Fezzy, you have just saved me a lot of trouble. I had lost a grub screw from the out drive shaft on the front diff. Ive just replaced it with a spare and my faith in the Dominator has been restored. Thanks Fezzy, my XR Works can now rest till sunday(race day) and the Dominator can entertain me during the week after work so im fullfilling my R/C dream.
FEZZY FOR P.M!

[fezzy]

Keep an eye on the drivecups, They come loose frequently... Many people recommend using red loctite, I've always used blue but they still come loose, I'm using red from now on.

[Coconut]

Originally posted by guswiththemugen
As this is my first monster truck i gotta ask why you would use a heavier oil in the rear? With buggies you usually use grease or a light oil in the rear and much heavier in the front.(centre diff having the heaviest.) Another thing i noticed is how thick the shock oil was that was supplied with the kit, might be good for jumps but i would think it would make it pretty unstable at high speeds on anything but smooth terain. Thanks again.

10K(10,000) diff fluid is heavier than 5K(5,000) diff fluid. So the front will be heavier than the rear. I would re[lace the shock oil too as it looks like it is not silicone as with many imported vehicles. I would recommend that you handdrill the piston holes with a #55 or 1.3 mm drill bit and start with somthing like 40wt. I would be sure and use red locklite in all the drive-cups and on the CVD grub screw. Blue on evrything else metal to metal.

[ExtremeRCR]

Are any of you out there running the sway bars? My turning is not very responsive and I was wondering if removing them may help.

[T-Maxxahol]

I am building hybrid and am starting witha MP i got he dom center diff and its a 60 tooth gear what bell should i run i have the stock 4 port with a Fioroni siding turbo clutch
thanks guys.. lmk

[T-Maxxahol]

I wil be running the Tmaxx bow ties on it from pro line so Maxx sized tires

thanks again

[DipInTraffic]

come check out our ofna monster truck site ......lots of titan guys http://www.titanforums.com

[Coconut]

Originally posted by T-Maxxahol
I am building hybrid and am starting witha MP i got he dom center diff and its a 60 tooth gear what bell should i run i have the stock 4 port with a Fioroni siding turbo clutch
thanks guys.. lmk

To give you a idea;which reaaly is going to depend alot on engine your using; with the 62 stock spur many run either a 14 or 15 tooth bell gear. I take it that you are going to race as you mention the center diff.

[Coconut]

Originally posted by ExtremeRCR
Are any of you out there running the sway bars? My turning is not very responsive and I was wondering if removing them may help.

I fyour running both the front and rear sway-bars then first thing I would try is taking off the front. They are not very hard to remove and install;so try with rear then without either. I would make sure that I was using a servo that was powerful enough. Also you can lower the front ride height some to give more steering by adjusting the spring pre-load as well as trying weaker springs. They all have other effects;so it is really a matter of compromise .Start out with equal ride height front and rear then if not enough steering lower the front alittle. You could also try using heavier diff fluid in front than rear if you have not done so alraedy. Only make one adjustment at a time and try it out to see effect. 10,000 front and 5,000 rear is a good all around satrting point.

[guswiththemugen]

Sorry Coconut, miss read your post, thought you were saying 1000 front, 5000 rear. The shock oil supplied isnt a silicone oil and as it isnt labled and the manual doesnt state the thickness so im going to start with 40 as you suggested. Im guessing the shock oil supplied would be at least 50 plus. Im also thinking of using grease for the diffs instead of silicone oil, ive allready re assembled the front with grease and it feels good(and i can save the silicone for my Mugen).
Another question i have is about the 8 port Hyper sleeve, do you have an idea of price? Has anyone seen the difference between the standard 3 port(or 4 including exhaust) against the 8 port? Im in Australia and things take a little longer to hit our shores if they do at all. My local hobby store couldnt find a listing for it so im guessing it will be a little harder to get over here. Thanks again.

[guswiththemugen]

Had to let you guys know that ive finished my ground up rebuild and foud both grub screws in the drive cups either side of the rear were loose, as was both sides in the front. I replaced the shock oil with 40 and assembled both diffs with Tamiya Grease, put it back together and i have supreme confidence this thing will hold together and be a lot more stable at speed. These are predictions as i havent driven it yet but it can only improve from what i have done. Let you know how it goes.

[fezzy]

I'm in process of doing a full rebuild too, I have never done one since buying the truck but I have always kept it clean and maintained it after every run. I'm doing it to see if I can sort out its reliability, the rear diff has started to go thanks to my LHS, the truck went to for the owner to have a tinker with my Hyper21, It came back with a cracking diff.... Later inspection revealed the front right drivecup grub screw had come loose and the centre rear drivecup that holds to pinion secure inside the diff, So basically all the power was unloading into the rear diff with the pinion gear swinging in and out of the ring gear, Thanks Pete @ Bolton Model Mart!.

Anyway, I've got some shims at last and plan on shimming the diffs and switching the front diff to the rear and hopefully, I will get a good while out of them yet... Up till now I have never had a problem with the diffs. I've also got some 'Studlock' or 'Red' Loctite, The super strong stuff for my drivecups, centres and diffs!. This is what everyone told me to use but I ignored there advice thinking that blue would be enough, Well it wasn't and now I pay the piper, The shafts that the drivecups slide onto and are secured to look abit 'rounded' now, Its clear to see where they have backed out a little then with power spun over the edge of the flat spot, So with not having as flat a 'flat' spot in the shaft I don't know how well they'll hold, But I hope they'll stick together. Other than the diffs I'm not doing much else, Just cleaning and re-oiling the bearings, replacing a few stripped/missing screws, cleaning everything with degreaser. Oh, I'm also going to rebuild my shocks with some standard H7 Shock Pistons and some very thin 10wt shock oil, For quite a long time I've run drilled shock pistons and 50-80wt Oil, Even with the 80wt oil its still very very soft, Great for heavy off-roading but un-practical on tarmac and tracks where I usually drive my Dominator. If the standard pistons and 10wt are still too stiff I will more than likely just enlarge one of the holes in the shock pistons and refill them with a 20-30wt oil, For the majority of time I have run the pistons with both holes inlarged with the afore mentioned shock fluid.

If I can't get the truck reliable I am considering selling it and maybe buying a 2.5 T-Maxx or Savage.

Time will tell, But I really do like my Dominator and hope it comes through for me.. Unfortunately I don't have alot of money for this hobby and therefore can't afford to spend so much on the truck to make it as 'reliable' as it should of been from the start.

[Coconut]

I have seen serveral threads on changing the 4 post sleeve for a eight port and they say the only difference is the sleeve. I think that www.unlimitedengineering.com had the P?S for like 80.00. Might also want to check www.ace-hobbies.com and register;then click look at new items.

[fezzy]

The 8-Port Piston/Sleeve is a drop in fit to convert your 4-Port motor to the 8-Port version, Basically a cheap power upgrade!. Thats what I'm going to be doing very shortly, after I sell my 2-Speed...

[guswiththemugen]

Fezzy, dont give up on the Dominator. I think you will find that after your rebuild it will be a different truck. It is a well designed truck that hasnt been assembled properly, once you sort out the problems with the grub screws the truck doesnt seem to have anymore weak spots. The diffs are sealed, can be tuned with grease or silicone oil(id personally recomend grease for these diffs), the slipper clutch works great with the drive line. The only thing i see as a neccessary part to change are the rear dog bones for cvds, they used them in the front but thought the rear would be fine without. Anyway, ive given my truck a run tonight, 4 tanks later and the thing is running like a dream! Puts more power to the ground with the grease packed diff and the shocks are awsome with the 40 oil i used. Fezzy, i gotta say i almost had a heart attack when you mentioned the t-maxx, you'll be lucky if it doest brake taking it out of the box! In my opinion the Dominator is light years ahead of the t-max in design and durability, and it looks nuts!
My next move for my Dominator is the 8 port sleeve, the truck rules but im used to Novarossi power and hope the 8 port will ease my pain a little. The Hyper seems to be a good engine but if i can get more go by replacing a sleeve and piston thats what i will do.
As for the HPI Savage........ i think this truck is our only competition, in race trim there is nothing between them, in fact the Dominator has a better race record than the Savage which is what pushed me to get the Dominator over it. I feel the Dominator has much more potential than the Savage when it comes to handling and stability.
Better go, starting to rave on a bit.

[guswiththemugen]

Another thing i found when rebuilding was that the brake pads had'nt been glued to the backing plates, i couldnt even see a mark of glue on the pad or the plate, glueing them improves the braking a lot.

[fezzy]

I glued the pads to the calipes and it made the brakes terrible, I've never been able to get them back up to the same standard.

[guswiththemugen]

Originally posted by fezzy
I glued the pads to the calipes and it made the brakes terrible, I've never been able to get them back up to the same standard.

Did you use a bit too much glue, that makes the pads hard. I also found that my driveline is smoother and quieter without the pads catching. The pads move around when there not glued and the wholes that hold them in place wear, and the pad wont sit strait. Braking improves from the pad not flexing down, when glued to the baking plate the brake action is alot more solid.

[Philly's Finest]

I just had installed the longer drive cups and some front end things. I put the whole truck back together and then I read the last few pages of the thread. I forgot to locktite the grub screws. Plus I didn't know to use red locktite.

So looks like I'll be tearing her down again tomorrow. Thanks guys because you probably saved me a bit of cash with the reminder.

[mercenario27]

Do Not Use Red Locktite You'll never get the grub screw out. I learned that when I got a grub screw locked in my CVD.

[fezzy]

I have only EVER used Blue Loctite on the drivecup grub screws and it comes loose still after every run, So during my full rebuild I decided to opt for peoples advice and use red. Its not hard to get off, You just have to know how..... All you need is a soldering iron and then put the tip on the end of the grub screw and leave it on there till you smell the loctite burning, then its just a case of unscrewing the grub screw with ease. After all the times the drivecups have come loose its finally cost me a diff, like I said before what my LHS had done, That wouldn't of happened if I used red loctite! Not only that but the output shafts of the diff have started to round off from the flatspot there the grub screws back out a little then the power forces it over the edge of the flat spot. At the momment I will be surprised if they even work they look so round.

Blue Loctite in drivetrain parts = Money
Red Loctite in drivetrain parts = Reliability.

[Coconut]

I aways use redlocktie on cups;CVD's and other metal to meatl drivetrain parts. The grub screws I did find locktited from fractory had red locktite also. Blue just doesn't cut it for drivetrain parts.

[Philly's Finest]

Anyone using the trinity terra crusher springs? How do they compare to the stock springs?

[Coconut]

I am using the trinity 5133 crusher springs on the front of my Dominator with Unlimited Super shocks. I haven't been able to run them but amny have been using them with four shocks on Supermaxxes and JT racing trucks. They seem the right weight as they only need about 1.8th in ch pre-load to been slightly above arms level. They are heavier than stock. They make other weights that may worik on rear but I haven't tried them. I did have to scrape the paint of inside were they go over retainers because they were tight. So far they are the only springs that I know of that are heavy enough for front without using alot of pre-load. I also have OFNA aluminum bulkheads on front just so you know thw weight.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Coconut
Some say that when jumping they have run the two speed with steel gear succesfullyy,but I personally like a slipper. When you run steel gears you usaully have to change the clutch and spur gears at same time because of wear of steel to steel. You can check past repost by Fezzy on using a HPI roller bearing with two speed on Dominator forum;might help. In MHO when you run without a slipper it transfers the stress that slipper would have absorbed to other parts of drivetrain. Even the buggies that run a center diff that absorbs somewhat blow diff's sometimes. Just a part of racing to them.

Coconut, thanks for the response. I replaced the 2-speed with the slipper, and raced this weekend... what a difference!! The truck was a lot more "manageable" in the air and over jumps, and i didn't lose any speed down the straight. I do think that I need to tighten the slipper a bit, though, 'cause there were times when I felt it slipping--it would wind up a bit, then engage.

[Coconut]

A easy way to adjust the slipperis to put the grub screw on slipper clamp nut pointing upward. Put the allen wrench in thru top plate and loosen screw. Then leave allen wrench in and roll the truck either forwards or backwards( i forget which way to tighten) and the wrench will hold the nut while the shaft turns. Hope that helps.

[Philly's Finest]

thanks Coconut

so would you recommend them over the the kyosho whites?

[fezzy]

I am running Kyosho Rear Whites on the Front and Kyosho Rear Blues on the Rear, Great setup and the springs work flawlessly.

[Coconut]

I don't know about the Kyosho whites. I do know that the OFNA white are still too soft without alot of pre-load for the front. They seem fine for the rear. As I say I have the OFNA aluminum bulkheads in the front which weigh alot more than the stock bulks. Maybe Fezzy can tell you how much pre-load at what ride height he is using with the white Kyosho springs on the front.

[fezzy]

I never ran any preload on the front w/whites, on the rear I ran about 5-8mm which was with the kyosho blues.

[Philly's Finest]

Alright then thanks guys. I'll try the trintiy up front & stock rear. Then I'll eventually get the kyosho blues for the rear.

[mercenario27]

I was checking out that new proline bulkhead kit for the Dominator. I think it totals about $399. It made me think about my old maxx and how i missed it. I went to the LHS and bought the New 2.5 Tmaxx for the same price as the complete conversion for the Dominator. Instead of shinking 400 bucks into my Dominator I bought another car, shhh don't tell my wife. I Already have enough money sunk into my Dominator

Ofna Dominator
-Force .25
-Ofna 2 Speed
-Ofna Rear CVDs with Long Drive Cups
-Powerline FT & RR Lower arms
-Powerline Aluminum Body Post Set
-SS Shock Towers
-SS Radio Tray
-SS Steering Servo Saver Top
-SS Center Block Top Plate
-SS Tmaxx Rim Adapters
-SS 2.2 Rim Adapters
-Ofna Primer/Filter

I'll post Pictures of My Dominator when I get it back from Steve @ SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com)

[Philly's Finest]

Am I missing something? Why is it that everyone keeps saying it cost $400 for the maxx suspension? I thought the bulks came as a set of 4. 70 bucks for bulks & 45 for the proline susp kit and your set. So what is up with the $400 thing? What am I not getting?

[guswiththemugen]

Thats amazing that your t-maxx hald up better than your dominator. I also have both, i run 1/8th buggies but wanted a truck for thrashing. The best my t-maxx ever held up was when i opened the box...... and thats about it. I think the ratio of broken parts was 1 per tank over the time i attempted to run it.
Once i fixed the grub screws in the drive cups of my dominator, changed shock oil and adjusted slipper clutch the only thing that has let go was a rear dog bone, cvds will fix that. A small price to pay for a reliable truck in my opinion.

[mercenario27]

my first T-Maxx never held up every well. I broke something on very run. The only thing I broke on my MP/Dom all last year was the lower front arm. I really didn't break it the pillow ball for the hub, it ripped through the arm. The hole was stretched so it would not hold the ball tight enough. I replaced the arms with powerline and I haven't had a problem ever since. I replaced the Rears while I was at it, with the aluminum arms, I noticed that the Aluminum arms in the rear elimates the lateral flex the plastic arm creates.

[mercenario27]

These are Towerhobbies Prices
Proline
6021-00 x1 Performance Bulkheads Part $98.00
6007-00 x1 Complete MAXX Performance Suspension Kit $66.99
6020-00 x1 MAXX Performance Ball-ends $11.99
6003-00 x2 body mounts $5.79 x2
6010-00 x2 MIP CVD's™ $45.99 x2

Lunsford
11082 x1 Two 3 5/8" turnbuckles $8.79

Traxxas
4614 x 4 Ball bearings $5.79
4932 x 2 Axle carriers $ 5.79
4933 x 2 Pivot balls $5.79
4934 x 2 Pivot ball caps $6.69
4939x x 1 Suspension pin set $10.99
4954 x 2 Wheel hexes $2.39

326.77 if you order everything online, doesn't include shipping. To me, I rather have an additional car.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by mercenario27
These are Towerhobbies Prices
Proline
6021-00 x1 Performance Bulkheads Part $98.00
6007-00 x1 Complete MAXX Performance Suspension Kit $66.99
6020-00 x1 MAXX Performance Ball-ends $11.99
6003-00 x2 body mounts $5.79 x2
6010-00 x2 MIP CVD's™ $45.99 x2

Lunsford
11082 x1 Two 3 5/8" turnbuckles $8.79

Traxxas
4614 x 4 Ball bearings $5.79
4932 x 2 Axle carriers $ 5.79
4933 x 2 Pivot balls $5.79
4934 x 2 Pivot ball caps $6.69
4939x x 1 Suspension pin set $10.99
4954 x 2 Wheel hexes $2.39

326.77 if you order everything online, doesn't include shipping. To me, I rather have an additional car.

Add these up:

RRP Forward Only Conversion
RRP Internal Aluminum Gears
RRP Hardened Diffs
RRP Slipper Spur
MIP CVDs
Kippster Steel Diff Cups
Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles


These are, at the minimum, the parts required to make your 2.5 truck realiable. Count on replacing diff gears quite regularly...


:cool:

[Coconut]

I thought about this when the bulks first came out. I really didn't see that much advantage. It does allow more ground clearance;gets rid of the off set wheels but it uses smaller bearings and the geometry of the steering linkage has to be worked out;the hingpin placement is also not the same as the Maxx and the towers are just not right. If you go full bore and add the best Unlimited susepnsions then you mess-up the geometry you paid for and the knucklehead towers are even worse. They are great for the hybrid guys that just like to tinker tho. I think that the money is better spent on improving the weaknesses of the stock Dominator. I do thing that the new 2.5 maxx is a great small block racer. All trucks have their weaknesses especially out of the box. They all cut corners to keep the price competitive. just MHO.

[Philly's Finest]

I had not really thought it through. I forgot about the cvds. Although if you were going the cheap route I guess you could use doggies. I also hadn't thought about the uprights & other suspension parts. I guess if I already had a maxx the bulks would be great. Ah well I'll be getting another truck in late spring just to bash with. Maybe I'll get a maxx & pick them up then.

As far as weak spots on the dom what parts do you think need upgraded? Income tax is my 2nd christmas so I'll be looking for dominator stuff. I already have front cvds & long drive cups. Anything else you guys suggest?

I plan on getting a new filter & header to replace the crappy stock one. I haven't been able to use my paris pipe with the xtm because it just BLEEDs fuel from the manifold.

[Coconut]

The first thing I would look at is the Sabr line of parts. They are all stronger and perform better. Because they do it part time they are harder to get. So be sure and call on availability. There site is www.knology.net/~smashandbashracing In my opinion all their parts are better from what I have seen and I've never heard a complaint on the parts. They are also very reasonable for what you get. I agrre on the filter if you are talking about the air filter. A good air filter like the RB filter with elements changed regularly can double the life of a engine. They use the paris pipe I belive so when you call they can advise on a good header that works. be sure and check the hours to call as it's in the evening. Good Luck

[guswiththemugen]

What plugs are you guys running in your hyper engines? How far out are your top end needles(turns)? Im running a No.5 Novarossi plug and my top end needle is just over half a turn out. This setting is new to me as my other engines which are novarossi BX.21s run at about 3.5 turns out. My hyper runs well and isnt running hot so im not too worried but wanted to know if this is the way they are.

[guswiththemugen]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
Ah well I'll be getting another truck in late spring just to bash with. Maybe I'll get a maxx & pick them up then.

Youve allready got a truck which out performs the maxx and is better quality so instead of getting another truck, get a buggy! There stronger, faster, handle better and you can jump them in your sleep.

[Philly's Finest]

Thanks for the suggestion but I really think I'm a moster truck guy. I haven't even touched my other cars since I got the dom. I'm considering the sport maxx, savage, and I'll wait for assocaited to release the bft.

I thought someone said a page or so back that the powerline rear arms don't fit the dom. Is that true? I'd like to pick up the lower arms merely for show not concerned about their strength.

[mercenario27]

the aluminum lower arms are a most best $54 spent on the car

[geerah]

I have a MP and im in the middle of converting it to a Dom. I have two questions. One, is the front chassis support the same as the one used for the rear of the MP? Two, is the Dominator front body post different from the MP, because the front shock tower is different?

Thanks

[mercenario27]

Originally posted by geerah
I have two questions. One, is the front chassis support the same as the one used for the rear of the MP? Two, is the Dominator front body post different from the MP, because the front shock tower is different?

Thanks

1. The front chassis support is different from the rear its part # 18622
2. The body post are different from the rear. Its the same as the monster pirate front body post

Becareful when Ofna ordering parts. Alot of their part numbers are of.f My LHS has a wall full of Ofna parts because of bad part numbers. In ofnas Dominator flyer they list the front shock tower, Shock Tower, Front 18024 when its shock tower, front 4mm 18624 I had alot of problems with Ofna.

I love my dominator to death but I don't think I would be purchasing another Ofna vehicle. Custumer Service sucks. I sold my MBX R2 and bought a 2.5 Tmaxx

[cxdxh]

WANT TO HAVE MORE VARIETY IN WHAT TYPE OF TIRE YOU RUN? WANT TO WIDEN YOUR MP OR DOM BY A FULL INCH (LIKE THE PROLINE SUSPENSION DOES TO A TMAXX) THEN CHECK OUT THIS THREAD.. THESE LIL ADAPTERS LET YOU RUN TMAXX TIRES AND WIDEN YOUR TRUCK AT THE SAME TIME

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO SEE SOME PICS

http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=34;t=23224

IF INTERESTED, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT CXDXH@YAHOO.COM

[Coconut]

If you don't have a LHS that carries parts;best thing to do is call either Ace-hobbies or nitrohouse. They are both very familar with the MP/Dominator and will know what parts you need.

[NSBD 1]

Originally posted by cxdxh
WANT TO HAVE MORE VARIETY IN WHAT TYPE OF TIRE YOU RUN? WANT TO WIDEN YOUR MP OR DOM BY A FULL INCH (LIKE THE PROLINE SUSPENSION DOES TO A TMAXX) THEN CHECK OUT THIS THREAD.. THESE LIL ADAPTERS LET YOU RUN TMAXX TIRES AND WIDEN YOUR TRUCK AT THE SAME TIME

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO SEE SOME PICS

http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=34;t=23224

IF INTERESTED, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT CXDXH@YAHOO.COM

The geometry accoiated with these adaperts is horrible. Requires alot more force to turn and extra strain on the knuckles arms ETC ETC. Also if you are racing they cause exsesive tire scrub. Stay away

[mercenario27]

Try the adapters from SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) they keep the normal offset of the Dominator. they are only $25. You really don't want to mess with the steering geometry. There was article in the last issue of radio control nitro about that. if you make the trucks width greater than the trucks wheelbase and that will cause major understeering.

SS is coming out with some shock towers that address the shock bottoming out before the chassis. Radio tray with a transponder hook, top diff plate, servo saver top plate too.

[mercenario27]

check out the new Ofna Forums (http://pub77.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback) they are a lot better.

[Coconut]

Boy;what is OFNA upto. First people say that they actually helped when called;then this. Next thing you know they will have corret parts numbers on their parts sheets and decent instructions. They better watch out or they will loose their reputation for crummy customer service altogether,

[Mook9304]

I think they suck far as helping people . I have a dominator and I love it .

[NSBD 1]

lol @ co-nut

[Coconut]

Just got my Sabr chassis;Towers and steering link. Only mounted the toers so far as I am waiting for parts to complete chassis. The towers are just what I've beeen looking for, The rear tower has higher mounting points and with my UE super shocks have a choice of three mounting points. I can how lay the shocks down for a more progressive spring and use softer springs for a rough track set-up. The front look like five of mounting point will be usable with chassis bottoming out first. By the way this is with stiff trinity inserts in tires. Weights
1. sabr chassis-18.1 oz;stock not weighted yet
2. sabr front tower-1,7 oz;stock 1.3oz
3sabr rear tower-1.9oz;stock1.2 oz
4. sabr link0.5 oz;new OFNA CNC link borrowed from friend -0.3 oz
The chassi looks great. I really wander how they did such aperfect job on the counter sinking the holes with this being 6AL-4V Titanium which is aircraft grade and is known to be hard to machine. Just though I'd share my impressions.

[mercenario27]

The New Ofna Board is up Click Here (http://pub77.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback)

[anothermbdusted]

hey i got my springs today for my mugen big bores and i think he might have sent the wrong ones to me i asked for the stiffest ones and he sent me blue springs which i thought was the lightest spring rate???on the package it even says lite...will these work do you know or do i need the heavier ones for the MP/DOM....on my truggy i had the ofna blue spring and they worked perfect for my track will these be about the same do you know??

[Coconut]

Yea; those are the softest. I don't have mugen springs ;so don't know how they compare to the OFNA blues. I had to send the Sabr steering link back as I forgot about the bushing in my link and needed the 7mm hole instead of the 5mm hole. Anyone ordering besure and check . Its the hole were it mounts to the servo saver. Called they said no problem.

[anothermbdusted]

coconut: i ordered the same thing from sabr so i hope mine is right when i get mine......going to order the rest next friday....i just got a unexpected check in the mail so im going to get the S-7 from RB so its going to be a fun month after all......

[anothermbdusted]

thought i might post this for everyone if you dont already know about it........the ofna .26 enginehttp://ofna.com/images/eng_picco26.jpg

[Clan O'Riley]

Im thinking about buying a dominator. i want to know if it is durable and if it is better than the tmaxx. please help! i need to know soon!:(

[anothermbdusted]

yes it is durable and is better in every way then a tmaxx...handles better and also it cheaper and it one sweet truck

[tripplefatty]

/

[Clan O'Riley]

thanx for ur in put but i still cant decide. i have talked to people with t maxxes and they say the dom is horrible. i cant decide. i dont race, i dont really care about a lot of ground clearence like on the maxx but i like the power of a .21 engine. i have heard things bad about both trucks and i cant decide. please help!:( :confused:

[anothermbdusted]

ill put it like this since you dont race....the dominator is a great truck for bashing and for racing but the tmaxx is more of a basher truck straight out of the box then a dom....to get a tmaxx upto race specs to play with the big boys you got to spend quite a bit to make it worthy...were talking like $1k minimum i would imagine where as the dom only need very minor things to make it race worthy maybe like $50 thats it.... the tmaxx has alot more suspension more after market support has better customer service and is very popular...if your not going to race and just bash and want a good strong truck look at the savage its got heavy duty suspension a .21 engine and is newer then the above mentioned trucks and the hop ups are just starting to come out with alot more to come and they got good customer service also...personally unless your going to race and have something against the savage i would recommend it to you.if you do and not going to race and dont plan to then get a tmaxx that way if you decide to then you can upgrade it..and if you plan on racing then get the dominator as it is strong and race proven...yes i know im going to get slack for saying the above but its my .02$

[Philly's Finest]

I would strongly disagree with the maxx being stonger or more durable than a stock dominator. I would put the maxx last on the list of the three. But I do agree if you don't plan to race at all & just bash you really can't beat the savage. Good truck at a good price and you should have plenty of fun with it.

[anothermbdusted]

has anyone here ever used a hudy set up fixture befor on a dom and will it fit does anyone know?

[guswiththemugen]

Has anyone got a set of C.V.Ds for the rear of thier Doms? I went to pick some up today and couldt find a pair to fit. The fronts dont fit, the guy fron the shop tried every C.V.D they had, none would fit properly even though some were listed to fit. We got close (a fraction short) and the only way i could run them was to use a small piece of fuel tubing on the rear shock shafts to limit the travel, this would work but id rather not do it. Whys everone talking up the savage? They are good but there slower out of the box than the dom, dogbones, average handling and a pretty weak engine make it a second option to the Dom for my money. I understand some are better for bashing and some for racing, but i think the Dom would chew the Savage at either, after a rebuild and a bit of locktite of course!

[Clan O'Riley]

thanx for the info guys:)

[ImpulseGTP]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
ill put it like this since you dont race....the dominator is a great truck for bashing and for racing but the tmaxx is more of a basher truck straight out of the box then a dom....to get a tmaxx upto race specs to play with the big boys you got to spend quite a bit to make it worthy...were talking like $1k minimum i would imagine where as the dom only need very minor things to make it race worthy maybe like $50 thats it.... the tmaxx has alot more suspension more after market support has better customer service and is very popular...if your not going to race and just bash and want a good strong truck look at the savage its got heavy duty suspension a .21 engine and is newer then the above mentioned trucks and the hop ups are just starting to come out with alot more to come and they got good customer service also...personally unless your going to race and have something against the savage i would recommend it to you.if you do and not going to race and dont plan to then get a tmaxx that way if you decide to then you can upgrade it..and if you plan on racing then get the dominator as it is strong and race proven...yes i know im going to get slack for saying the above but its my .02$

Why is the savage not a suitable truck to race??:confused:

[mercenario27]

Rear CVD solution is posted on the Ofna Board
Click Here (http://pub77.ezboard.com/fofnaracingnitrotalkbackfrm20.showMessage?topicID= 14.topic)

[anothermbdusted]

ImpulseGTP: I'm not saying the savage is not racable at all thats all i race almost at my track now....but yesterday the track owner said hes going to divide the class into savages and tmaxxes/ MP,dom classes because the dom/mp's are spanking the savages butts BAD!!! and people are getting pissed because of it...the only problem that i see with the savage right is that it is slow out of the box so you need a new motor for it or gear it up a little bit to make up for the slow truck....also in the turns you dang near got to come to a stop to get around one because of the suspension geometry.....lack of adjustments to the susp