Ofna Monster Dominator

[Coconut]

Originally posted by penggoy
monster pirate? whats the difference between mp and dominator? also can i convert this MT into a buggy since both (mp/dm) are based on buggy car?sorry guys for all my questions, i just want to spend my hard earned money wisely. thnx again

I agree with fezzy;OFNA made alot of improvements with the Dominator. Unless your going a make alot of changes rightaway for racing or just want to get the Dominator. If you want to chmge alot to upgrade towers; center diff;shocks etc. then the Monster Pirate roller at Stormer for 128.00 is a good buy.You could convert it to a buggy but then you would have the same problem run into in truggy conversions;gearing with tire size change. The parts are available to make the Dominator preety well bullet proof for bashing and performance parts like the center diff and rea brakes to make a great race truck. I have not seen anything out there right now that compares to the Dominator really;without spending a fortune.MHO

[mercenario27]

SS R/C Racing is making some stiff shock towers for the MP/Dom
Click Here (http://www.ssrcracing.com/Ofna.htm)
SS RC States:
Rear Shock Tower
CNC MACHINED 7075-T6 AIRCRAFT ALUMINUM

Atten Racers Extra Shock mounting holes to allow chassis to bottom out before shocks do.


http://www.ssrcracing.com/dom_mp_rr_st.jpg

[Philly's Finest]

I'm interested in getting some an MP wheel set to bash with. Will I need to change the stock gearing on the dom to run the bigger wheels?

[fezzy]

Yes you will otherwise you will lose a noticeable ammount of acceleration. You may want to go to a 11t bell, If you want more topend than low then go with a 12t

[Clan O'Riley]

ok well my pull start is shot and i am mad:mad: a new one is $26 bucks. so think i will get a starter box. do the boxes have enough power to crank this engine over? i tried too with my old piece of crap box and it couldnt do it. this engine has sooooooo much copression!:eek:

[fezzy]

Starter box is definetely the way to go, You could always fix your P/S if its only the cord thats gone, I tryed it once and failed.. But I think when I next do it I shall fix it properly.

As far as getting a starter box that can meet the needs of your engine, Well quite simply it depends what starter box you get and what voltage you run it at. I don't know much about starter boxes, But I do know that the Thunder Tiger Starter Box is very good, its well made and will turn over even a RB WS7 or RB C5 in stock trim with a 12v Battery.

[Clan O'Riley]

by the way what is a good sarter box? i think the ones from ofna are good

[Coconut]

The OFNA #10250 is a good starter box. It has a heavyduty 12 volt motor and uses a 12V gel cell. Alot more porwer that the small motor ones. You will need to buy the 12v battery and a wall charger for it.

[anothermbdusted]

I have the ofna 10250 also and it works like a dream compared to the old pullstart thing...

COCONUT: what did you use to mount the ofna ultra gt tank in your sabr chassis? I dont have anything long enough so i just put in the old talk for now until i get a answer and the parts for it...thanks
Also what did you use for a pipe hanger??
found a cool spot for a fuel filter also since i bought a new one. on the center chassi support take out one screw and mount it there looks good.and really sturdy also and keeps the fuel lines away from the spur also
what is the part number for the rear top mounting bracket for the rear top brace? so i can put one onto the front shock tower?

[Coconut]

I had a 1 1/8th inch stand-off that was also too short. I bought a plastic 1 inch stand-off at Lowes in the speciality parts bins wre they sell different screws etc. I raised the tank 1/8th inch off chassis. Put screws in and then measured the length of plastic to cut. With the plastic piece on top of the aluminum stand-off it was perfect. I use a piece of 5?32 piano wire for the hanger. Might have to drill tank mount hole but I don't like a weak one. Look at you tower;the front mounting bracket is differnt than the rear. I don't think the bracket is available separately. You can use your MP brace by mounting it in the first hole in the servo saver top plate I believe. I used my front by mounting in in the hole closer to the front tower. I believe the front tower is strong enough since I use a CNC front bulkhead. I then mount the front body mount to the rear of the tower so as to make it easier to mount maxx bodies. This moves it back some. If you decide to go the Dominator brace to the front toer then call Ace as OFNA part numbers are screwed-up on this as I remember. I also have the filter mounted to the tranny top plate. For a air filter extention I use a Traxxas Rustler rubber exhaust piece. It is tall and has a 90 degree turn on end. I cut it off on the straight end so that the filter goes and sits over the tranny. I made a brace out of piano wire that screws to the right rear tranny screw. It has a terminal soldier to the end with a hole in it. The air filter screw goes thru the terminal to brace the air filetr. Look at Coleman's truck for the Traxxas elbow. I use a OS Super Filter which is large like the RB filter. I am still waiting on the steering link;but then it's MARDI GRAS time and I'll be plenty busy as my wife is Cajun. That should be drill pipe mount hole above.

[anothermbdusted]

thanks coconut for the info ill run down to the local hardware store tomorrow morning and pick it up....i just ordered the front brace but you got to buy the whole kit which sucks but now i got spares if some one needs some rods lol.....I'm done with shopping now YEAH i just ordered my servo from ace (AIR 94358) and got the rear cvd's also......SO IM DONE!!!!!! thank god.....bank account is looking sad lol but oh well its nice....

[Clan O'Riley]

i think this box looks alright. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD8&P=7
Please help!

[Coconut]

Take my adcice and get the 12 volt motor. It will turn over tighter engines.

[guswiththemugen]

Coconut is right, dont go with 550motors, they just arnt up to the job. I have a box with 550s in it and both engines have been smoked. They are no good for a fresh engine. Even now, they struggle to kick over my Novarossi which has seen a lot of use. It can kick the hyper over after i broke it in but the engines in the box are red hot after and lucky to survive the effort. Get the 12volt motor and save yourself money...and get a 12volt gel cell battery, they last and hold charge well, and end up cheaper than 7.2 packs.

[Philly's Finest]

I use the OFN 10246 box. It's been great and has the big motor. I've had no probs. Plus it can be used on the tc3 which I guess would be great if I had one.

[anothermbdusted]

got my parts today from SABR and already installed them....found two things i dont like so far about them..but no big deal though...the front shock tower needs to be a bit taller for my shocks 1/4 inch taller or i need to limit the travel of my mugen big bores...and the body mounting posts sit a little higher then I like but like i said no big deal...over all i think that the quality is excellent and only would change a few minor things on it...

[Coconut]

I would also like to lower the body mounts alittle . I did notice that Tek Dragons body in the **** board was sitting lower than most. Not quite sure how he is doing this. Most guys report that boiling the body mounts and wheels help with stopping them from breaking also. On the front shocks;are they over extending or are they bottoming out before the chassis in front? If over extending try screwing the rodend on until they bottom out; this helps with breaking also. If the shocks bottom out first try checking the stock Hyper 7 rodends as they are shorter than most and allow more compression than most. Just make sure that both front are same ext length when finished. You will have to drill them for 3.5mm shafts. Does your new engine have a boost bottle? If so I would recommend that you use blue locktite on fittings and tie-wrps to secure the fuel tubing.

[anothermbdusted]

i dont know about a boost bootle so to say but it does have a peice of fuel tubing that geos from the rear to the side of the engine...as far as the body post and rims got new rims cause last ones i didnt do this to them and wekk i cracked one nice chrome one oh well.. as far as shocks go the mugen big bores already have 3.5 mm shock shafts and the shock travel them self is just to long...called kevin he said he knew this already and that you need to put 1/2 inch of fuel tubing inside to make them perfect...the chassi bottoms out first and the shocks dont even come close to bottoming out front or rear...and thats at the most extended postion....

[geerah]

right now i have a 65 stock spur gear thats plastic, but i can get a metal 60 tooth spur gear for real cheap. How will this effect the performace of the truck, if im using the stock bell case.

thanks

[fezzy]

The only 'Metal' Spur Gear available for the Dom/MP is the 62t Steel One, If you get that you should technically gain some top end, Whether you notice it or not is another question, But you should be able to.

[Coconut]

I 'd reaaly not recommend fuel tubing for limiters as it will break down. 1/2 inch is alot, You could use Losi or associated limiters or plastic washers. If 1/2 in the plastic stan-off would be good. You probaly have to drill the limters out. When you rebuild those shocks next time ;think about getting some unlimited ( they are 3.5 mm too) titanium nitrated shafts. They are shorter this will help. Should think they will work. Check if your pistons work on 9.5 shock shafts if so they will as UE are nothing but 9.5 with shorter bodies and shafts.

[Coconut]

Originally posted by geerah
right now i have a 65 stock spur gear thats plastic, but i can get a metal 60 tooth spur gear for real cheap. How will this effect the performace of the truck, if im using the stock bell case.

thanks

Fezzy is right about the steel spur to fit the M?P and Dom. A steel spur will increase rotating mass;also you will find that they wear to each other. When you change spur or clutch bell thereafter you have to change both.

[Coconut]

I 'd reaaly not recommend fuel tubing for limiters as it will break down. 1/2 inch is alot, You could use Losi or associated limiters or plastic washers. If 1/2 in the plastic stan-off would be good. You probaly have to drill the limters out. When you rebuild those shocks next time ;think about getting some unlimited ( they are 3.5 mm too) titanium nitrated shafts. They are shorter this will help. Should think they will work. Check if your pistons work on 9.5 shock shafts if so they will as UE are nothing but 9.5 with shorter bodies and shafts.

[anothermbdusted]

i was just going by what kevin said at one time...i got alot of plastic washers that were included with the shocks but didnt know if i would need then or not until i bolted them up to the towers..... and i made the stock pipe holder work for right now i had to bend it alot(stiff SOB) but i got it to work i just put it in the same place as the screw holder for the ultra tank is since im going to use the MP one until it goes bad then i got the ultra as my back up one....i just put some fuel tubing over it for added protection to the tank and it looks good also

[guswiththemugen]

I have an MSN community called "R/C nitro cars". There are a lot of pics. and a board to post Questions and answers. Anything goes! If you want a specialized folder for pics. of your car, i will do it (if you have more than 1 pic!). There are currently about 15 members. Id really like to turn it into a forum more than a picture site so i need members who will post. I am the only moderator and as i said, its not a strict comunity. Thanks.

[Clan O'Riley]

ok i think my box choices are between the ae starter box and the ofna box that looks almost exactly like it.

[guswiththemugen]

Anyone know of a site that has footage of trucks racing? Pics. would be good but i havent seen trucks on a track racing at any sites i have been to. Thanks.

[Philly's Finest]

When refilling the shocks you just refill from the top, right?

[fezzy]

Yup, From the top..

[Coconut]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
When refilling the shocks you just refill from the top, right?

Since you asked that question;do you know how to bleed the shocks?

[Philly's Finest]

Absolutely no idea lol:confused:

edit: actually I never have re-filled shocks but I have built them on other kits. I didn't know that pushing the air out was called bleeding them. what can i say... i'm a bit dull around the edges lol:D

[Coconut]

Get as much of the old oil out as you can drain. With the shaft pu;;ed out(piston down);fill about 3/4 full. Without taking pistom out of oil work up and down slowly to expell air bubbles form below piston. Let sit for about ten minutes so as you let bubbles pop. Extend the shock shaft fully out then screw on cap about one thread. wrap a paper towel around shock near the top. Slowly push the shock shaft in and excess oil will bleed-out the cap area. When shock shaft is fully compressed;slowly tighten cap. Not too tight or baldder/gasket will leak. Work the shafy in and out and you should get a rebound (fully compressed then let go) of about 1/4-3/8th inch. If you hear squeeling that is because there is air. Rebleed. Make sure that all pistons rebound about the same. Before bleeding it is best to measiure the extended length of the shocks without the cap so that you have the same length when fully extended. helps handling. If you decide to put new o=rings in bottom then buy some Associated Green Slime to lube the o-rings well and you will get smoother shocks. When you put the shaft back thru new o-rings put a drop of shoch oil on shaft thread and work it thru smoothly to keep from damaging the o-rings. good luck.

[Softail]

After crashing my Savage my steering servo will not move, I dissambled it and one of the plastic gears inside is broke. Does anyone know where I can get a new gear? Will other makes fit?

Thanks:o

[Softail]

sorry wrong forum.:eek:

[fezzy]

:eek:

:D :D

[guswiththemugen]

I know how it is. You Savage owners want to be posting here but you car just aint up to it....LOL;)

[Coconut]

Ace-hbbies how list the complete set of Ti hingepins and turnbuckles for the Dominator for $52.95 with a turnbuckle wrench.

[anothermbdusted]

coconut that makes me kind of :mad: i just bought them from lunds for 83$ and i didnt even get a wrench....oh well live and learn i guess...well heres the body I have a few minor details to do to it yet but over all im done with it...;) cant wait to get it dirty at the track and kill some savage and tmaxx trucks :D

[Coconut]

Get one of the 1/8th wrenches when you order something they are way nice. Don't feel bad;I paid that much for my turnbuckles and had to shorten two. My truck is also datona yellow but is the GMC with F-150 front lights and grill. Your engine has the boost chamber like my OS. Degani says to be sure and blue locktite the pressure fitting to case and small tie-wrap the fuel tubing to them. Just about finished mine since I received the steering link back from Sabr. I am going to e-mail you some info, about a site;they often bland them out here.

[Coconut]

Get one of the 1/8th wrenches when you order something they are way nice. Don't feel bad;I paid that much for my turnbuckles and had to shorten two. My truck is also datona yellow but is the GMC with F-150 front lights and grill. Your engine has the boost chamber like my OS. Degani says to be sure and blue locktite the pressure fitting to case and small tie-wrap the fuel tubing to them. Just about finished mine since I received the steering link back from Sabr. I am going to e-mail you some info, about a site;they often bland them out here.

[fezzy]

Custard colour, Nice! :D

[mercenario27]

Will that proline body go lower on the Dom??

[anothermbdusted]

no it wont go any lower unless you make custom body mounts for it..its at the bottom of the posts but i got 1/2 inch more i can go down befor i hit the towers tops..but the body mounts wont allow it:(

[mercenario27]

You have the stock plastic body post, right. Do you think you could drill holes in the post. I have the powerline aluminum body post set.I had my friend steve from SS R/C Racing mill the post shorter. I still might pick up a set of short plastic body post and use them instead.

[Coconut]

It's not the post but the body mounts thenslves. I'm sure he will cut the post when he is finished testing. I'm pretty satisfied with the height overall. About the same overall as most Maxxes;except of course the chassis is lower. The only problem I see is that the tank lid is along way down from the body opening and will require a extention hose to the fuel bottle. Also the glow plug is way down in the body of the Sierra body I,m using. I do like the Ultra tank in that it opens to the rear;so zip-tie opening strap can go out the rear window area. That way you can use the front windhield opening to fuel thru. 1/2 inch more down and this body would lok slammed;that would be coll for racing.

[anothermbdusted]

OK this is from another forum and im wondering if anyone has ever tried it??does it work and if so how wel does it?would you recommend doing it?

qoute:If you get Lunsford turnbuckles for your Dom, get some Kyosho 6.8 ball ends for your steering turnbuckles. And then do the mods everyone else has been talking about, and you will see a huge improvement.

LMK thanks

[Coconut]

I'm using the 6.8mm ball ends on my steering turnbuckles. The reason I see to use them is that they are made for thick 1/8th turnbuckles. You have to order the rodends and hardballs separately. Tower carries them sorry don't remember the parts number. Not sure what other mods the poster was referring to.

[anothermbdusted]

cool i guess if there good then ill pick some up next week...didnt know if it ws a good idea or not was thinking befor but figured thats how it was designed wont mess with it...lol

[anothermbdusted]

ok i got it broke in and tuned correctly now...i got video and some pics but they didnt come out very well but i have them...i found the weak link in the truck though and i need to find a replacement for it and thats the steering ......particularly the bellcranks they can hold the turns very well the spring isnt strong enough to hold the steering tight..does anyone know if they make a after market part or if the 9.5 bellcranks will fit onto it so i have the ability to adjust the tension on them?heres one pic one of the better ones....and if you want the video then ill email it to you ok

[Coconut]

Thta's one I never heard of. You might want to see if you couldn't just find spacers to put at the bottom of the spring to add tension. www.mcmaster.com may have them if you can't find locally. If you never bought from them they carry 1.29grade screws including blue metric;as well as nylock nuts etc. They deliver fast too.

[anothermbdusted]

ill have to use my other camera next time so i get clearer pics.....any how i just got off the phone with SABR and he states that you should put a washer between the plastic top part and the spring..what happens after some time running it it deteriates the plastic away and you loose tension in the spring...mines new but in the video i have you can see my problem i am having...so Im going to look to see if they make one adjustable like the one on pual colemans truck or make one fit:D until then im going to home depot and getting the washers i need to take care of it for racing this weekend...until then let me know how or where to post a video ok someone please...

[fezzy]

I'm on MSN Jon, Waiting... :D

[anothermbdusted]

I just got off the phone speaking to angel at ofna about the adjustable bell cranks and he stated that paul colman tried alot of things and decided on a wheel nut spacer instead for the bell cranks...said that it makes a huge improvement in the steering response when coming into corners hard and fast...so i got alot of washers and im going to try that to see if it works for me....i guess if it worked for him gots to work for me....:D

UPDATE: talk to ace hardware and he states that the 9.5 servo saver fits and makes it adjustable and that all you got to do is put a washer on the top to make it fit correctly...he goes on to state that he uses it in his dom/proline conversion trucks...so if he states that its good then it must work well.....so im going to order it next payday and let you all kow how it is..


UPDATE 2: a 17mm wheel nut is to small to fit over it something about 18-19 mm is what you want for a inside diameter for the washer on the servo saver...

[Coconut]

I measured the saver aluminum shaft and it is right at 12mm OD. I decided to go ahead and put a spacer at the top of the spring to stop an wear on plastic. I got a machine spacer that is 1/8th inch thick( wheel nut is like 3/16th) and is 13mm ID X22mm OD. It worked fine and seem to be quite abit more tension. I got the spacer at local hardware store. If you wanted to add the wheel nut ;you cound hold it with channel locks and drill it to nearest inch size. that's what I will do if this isn't enogh tension.

[anothermbdusted]

thanks again coconut for the actual measurements on that one ....I found some washers from the mechanics shop at work and installed 3 so far and will test it out this weekend to see if it helps i got 6 of them just in case but i have the 9.5 adjustable one coming next wekk so that should fix it no matter what....now if i can get the right parts from ace i would be doing great..out of the last 2 orders i have placed with them i have only gotten half my order correctly picked and sent the other half is for something i have no idea what for.....i think the new help needs training in looking at parts or something befor he sends them off...im hopeing now i get my top shafts tomorrow right or i wont be able to run this weekend cause i cant get the screw out of the ball end:mad: so until i get the replacement i cant run it hard

[Clan O'Riley]

Ok i have a question. When my hyper .21 8 port is broken in will it be still hard to start? i need to know because i either need to buy a new pull starter unit or a starter box. i kind of want the pull start because it is easy but if it is always going to be hard to start then i will buy the starter box. :confused:

[fezzy]

All engines are easier to start after break in, They loosen up alot and because they run so rich they are also tempramental, Once you tune it it should start alot easier.

[cbr74]

Yep, once I survived break in and got a tune on it, my 8 port became a real sweetheart. Just a few tugs and she fires right up.

[twisted]

do you guys shim your ring and pinion gears? im not talking about the actual diff gears but the larger to on the outside of the diff housing.

[fezzy]

In my experience with the truck, definetely. I've heard very few cases of people having trouble with there bevel/spider gears, Most people have trouble with excessive play in the ring/pinion. About a month ago my rear diff started to crack, After owning the truck 9 months and having rebuilt my diffs and lubed them well I thought they would be OK, But my rear one still started cracking. I checked for play in the diff and it was certainly noticeable. I decided that I would buy some shims and totally rebuild my truck, re-grease/shim my ring and pinion gears and put red loctite on all the grub screws in the drive train, I also swapped the diffs round, I put the cracking rear into the front and the OK front to the rear, Seeing as the rear gets more punishment. I have run the truck a few times since but didn't want to let her rip fully because of the repair bill for my diff!!. Anyway, Last Sunday I joined my mates 2.5 Maxx on some damp grass, If anyone would of made that rear diff crack it would of been that stuff.. And well, It didn't. My diffs are saved!.

The quicker you can shim your diffs, The less damage you will do to them before they start cracking and you KNOW they need doing.

[twisted]

thanks fezzy for the help, i bought a used monster pirate over the winter and been rebuilding it for racing this spring. i had the diffs apart and replaced the ineer spidder gears with new ones and the ring and pinion actualy looked decent to me. today i took the truck and placed the two front wheels inbetween my feet and then tried turning the rea tires with my hands. i took alot of force but i was able to get the ring gear to "snap" over the teehth on the pinion. do you think shiming the pinion would be the answer or just buy a new pinion and ring gear?
thanks for the help!

[anothermbdusted]

shim them right now!!!! cause even if they go out your going to need the shims anyways for the new ones unless you get the heavy duty ones and ive heard that you dont have to on those...thats my next upgrade on mine if mine goes out...hope not...

[twisted]

how many shims you guys using? i just found three and it seems nice. i have two metal shims and one teflon shim, i hope the teflon shim holds up!

[anothermbdusted]

if i recall correctly i used 2 in the rear and 2 in the front..
How much does everyones race dominator/mp weight here with out fuel?? I dont know if mines good or not but I weighed it on a meat scale at the local market and it comes in w/body at 10.46 Lbs...dont know if thats heavy for all the mods i did or not but other then getting 2 more peices for it I'm done and technically they are eye candy...graphite front top plate and radio tray.....please post your weights if you got them and please be accurate with the weights...thanks

[twisted]

ive been building mine over this winter for racing and bashing. i took mine to my local hobby shop and wieghed it on there scale without engine and body and it came in at 7lbs 9oz. i plan on adding things to it so wieght will go up around the 10 mark i hope!

[fezzy]

I used 1 behind the ring gear and 2 on the other side of the diff on my (good) front diff, I think I used 2 either side off the diff on my dodgey rear one though

No two diffs are ever the same unfortunately.

[Coconut]

I weighted mine at 10lb 2oz with everything except fuel. I have the Sabr chassis,towers and aluminum front that bulkhead. Makes me think that with a stock chassis;it could be made evry light for a .21 MT if wanted. As far as the diffs ;fezzy is right about how many shims. I would advise that you make sure that if you use a petroleum based grease as the diff lube that you leave out the o-rings as they will just harden andf make for a stiff diff when they do. Also be sure and use a Moly gtrease like you get a Auto store to lube the spur. Just take your time checking assembled dry and you know when there are to many shims.

[anothermbdusted]

you know i didnt think about this so i got to be pretty close to the same weight...i forgot to seperate the weight of my truck from the towel i placed over the scale so i wouldnt be putting dirt on a meat device so its got to be about 10.2 or less also...its one of those cleaning rags about 18"x18" thats got to be about 2 ounces ill take it to work later and get it redone with out that dang towel and let you all know what it weights.....
i have the sabr chassis,towers center brace and then the cnc knuckles and all the titanium hing pins and turnbuckles,braces so even at 10.4 i think i did pretty well and i hate to see the left over parts of the truck i hit:D will have a new weight later today

[mercenario27]

I've been collecting Techtips from the forums and from emails this is what I have so far

Northeast Nitro Monster Pirate/Dominator Tech Tips (www.northeastnitro.com/dommp.htm )

If anyone has anything to add email it to me, I'll post it and everyone will receive full credit. Name ,email, website will be included under any techtip submitted

mercenario27@hotmail.com

Thanks

[anothermbdusted]

well took it out a little while ago and did some jumping on a skateboard ramp the local kids had and LOL dang that thing flies off the jumps like a banshe from hell.....i hit it full trottle and it went backwards and then landed on its side and tumbled a ways down the street and upside down thought i busted something so did the wife she had a pissed off look on her face so i knew i was in trouble lol but ill tell you what i flipped it over and drove it off like nothing happen and the sabr chassi makes sweet sparks when you hit asphalt....:D paced on the side of my wifes explorer and she said she was doing 52 mph but im a little doubtful on it.until i get a actual police radar out there to check it i wont beleive that allthough it does haul some serious but....its tough as nails...love it long live OFNA:D
by the way it weights 10.263 lbs

[twisted]

well i shimmed the ring gear lastnight and all is well i have not run ut yet though. i put a small and large shim on the ring gear and it seemed nice.a very and i mean very small amount of backlash and no binding. if i had put in another shim it was bindging a tad.no washers behind the pinion as i found this to be real bad. sounded like crap when i turned it.

my whole theroy behind why the ring and pinion snap over each other is, i noticed that when the diff is inside the actual case (the one in between the bulkheads) you can move the diff from side to side. on hard acceleration or braking they pull away from each other.i dont think its an issue of the strength of the gears, rather a to large of a diff case.(not the housing that holds the spider gears).

does this sound like im on the rite page?

[anothermbdusted]

yeah i think you hit it on the nail there twisted....but think about it also everyones is going to be differnt because after using the same mold over and over you start to loose tolerances over time and then you get slop...so we shim them to make up for it...the new cnc ones are made to exact specs and stretch the case a tiny bit from my understanding and well i havent heard yet of anyone having to shim those yet nor stripping one...
can some one here that has a digital scale handy right now please post the weight of just a MT3 rim by its self.....prefer in grams.....the reason why i ask this is because i dont want to run to work again to weigh the rim right now and im looking into the sabr rims...if my calculations are right i can save 4 ounces by purchasing them over the mt3's im hoping im right.....lmk PLEASE if not tonight ill post the weight tomorrow night after work

[anothermbdusted]

by the way i forgot to add this to the last post

[Coconut]

I look at it like this. The cnc is pretty close but even it leaves some machine toleraces. The plastic case is good because it is light and molding gives good tolerances. The cases are not too good when dry shimming the diffs but when placed in bulkheades this strengthens were needed. One reason to dry check them in bulkheads before putting diff lube in. I've also seen where buggy guys used petroleum based grease and it worked OK for awhile but then they though a bearing had gone bad. When they checked they found the o-rings had dry out because of the petroleum beaed grease. You find the ones that use grease don't use o-rings. I've read were some have been using synthetic gear oil from auto stores that specialise in perforamnce cars. They after runnign for long time and checking the diff fluid is like new. Haven't tried it myself. Most also swaer by leaving out the o-ring when sealing the diff and using RTV. I've used in on road but didn't with my Dominator. I will next time because it cheaper and easier than buying OFNA's o-rings.

[Coconut]

Anothermbdusted-It looks like your running the center diff and rear brake set-up. How would you compare it to the solid center ;if you ran it both ways? Also have you had time to play with the brake bias between front and rear? Just interested in your findings. Oh- my scales only measure to 1/10th oz but MT3 is 2.5oz;you'll have to do the conversion.

[anothermbdusted]

coconut: well i would only gain about 2 ounces by switching to sabr rims but then again they are alot stronger supposivly also so i think i might just go for it since i cracked my new ones even after boiling them for 2.5 hours:D
between the 2 setups of the center diff and the center spool so far i like the diff better.I can taylor the diffs load better i feel...the only thing i miss is the punch the spool gave..I was running a 65x13 and now a 62x13 and there is a big difference but with the new motor i think i would be flipping it alot if i ran it with it...

as for the brakes i like them also alot better but hard to set it up right..specaily if track conditions change fast..so im getting thumb screws ordered on monday to fix this. but over all im pleased with everything on the truck except the clutch system and as soon as the shoes where out im getting the fernoni sliding clutch to see how that holds up..problem is after about 4 tanks of fuel constent running the clutch begins to slip alot even with mugen shoes and 1.1 springs....so since the adjustable one is being used by alot of pro's out there i figure ill give it a shot to see if it helps.cant hurt right:D

[Ricksp65]

I got the Titan nice truck to take look at it if you guys get a chance.

[twisted]

suspension question :D i have a set of dominator shocks and towers coming for my converted mp.ive heard that the truck with these towers and sock will no bottom out with maxx size tires on it.is this true and if so what s the fix? prolly more money huh?:confused:

[Coconut]

First make sure you have screwed the rodend on the shock shafts as far as they will go. If you have to you can cut some of the threaded end of the shock shaft. You also will want to make sure the droop of the arms extended is about the same front to rear. Also amke the front shocks the same length extended and the two rears the same length. Usually the rear that doesn't bottom if you have a problem. Whis can be tested filling shocks.

[twisted]

thanks coco, has anyone had a problem with the tops popping off the ball ens on the dominator?

[fezzy]

When I got my Dominator the rear end didn't bottom out, Firstly do what coconut did but if that doesn't do the trick there are other solutions to try!. The cheapest thing is to mount the shocks to the bodymount. Un-attach the top of the shock mounting that goes in through the tower, hold the truck up and let the arms dropp down, while holding the truck up with one hand position the shock so that its on lined up with the bodymount, Mark it with something through the centre of the mounting and then drill a hole straight through the bodymount, then mirror it on the other side. Once this is done you can turn around the top mounting end of the shock around inside the shock cap and secure it with the same screw although I recommend buying a longer one and using a nyloc nut on the end, This works a treat and the bodymount is plenty rigid enough to give good dampening.

I actually modded a front shock tower to fit the rear of my Dominator, This is IMO the best 'all round' solution but is more expensive and does require a little more work.

[twisted]

fezzy, do you have pics of the front shock tower on the rear, i just happen to have to front towers.
thanks

[twisted]

ok guys me again :o i took the fron diff out of the dominator today and decided to shim that.i did but i found that there is a slight bind in only part of the rotation of the pinion gear. what do i do in this case? should i run it in using a drill? will the gears work themselves into each other?

[Coconut]

Are you sure it's in the pinion/spur mesh and not the plantary diff gears? If it's only slight it will probably wear in but remove a very thin shim and then check the play. If your using the kyosho shims;remove one 0.1mm shim. Also make sure your using the right size shims as you want the shim to run against the bearing race. 8X10mm is right size. Also recheck the even tightening of the spur gesr to the diff and make sure the plastic diff case isn't being spread apart when tightening it. Also check that the outdrive cup is not pulling the pinion/spur tighter if your only shimming on the spur side.

[fezzy]

http://community.webshots.com/user/asht Some pics are in the 'Dominator Old' Section, There are non shock tower specific but hopefully they will help you.

Its pretty easy to do if you want me to give you some instructions

[twisted]

thanks fezzy.
coc, im not using 8x10 shimms, i was using some i had lyeing around.the id is 8mm but the outside i dont know.thanks

[twisted]

fezzy, so what do i have to do to put this front tower on the rear?
thanks :D

[Philly's Finest]

Looks like he rasied the rear body mount a bit. He didn't mount the bumpers and looks as fezzy might have drilled holes for the rod ends. Interesting so I guess it wouldn't be possible to run the bumper in the back if one were to do this.

[anothermbdusted]

who makes the strongest lightest rims out there for the dom? with sabr rims ill save 1.6 ounces over the mt3's anyone know of any other rims out there that will fit other then these 2 that are light and strong?

[twisted]

i heard that the sabr were the best, but a little pricey for nylon rims imo. :rolleyes:

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
who makes the strongest lightest rims out there for the dom? with sabr rims ill save 1.6 ounces over the mt3's anyone know of any other rims out there that will fit other then these 2 that are light and strong?

Have you had a chance to check out the MSJ aluminum wheels? They are a nice, strong, 2-piece design. I can't recall if they make them for the Dom, but I seem to remember that they do.

Actaully, I just had a peek. Check out these wheels that they make to fit 17mm hexes: MSJ Aluminum Wheels 17mm (http://checkout.verisign.com/cgi-bin/ePages.storefront/3db438e20190cd382725c0a801bd06b5/Export/products/121481-2D1966722)

[anothermbdusted]

to be honest with you id pay 100$ for all four rims if i could get them to be way light and very strong..so far the sabr rims look to be the best bet right now...anyone else have some clues?and i might have a solution for lower body mounts possibly ill let you know later this week if they work out if so they will lower the body about 1/2 inch compared to normal

[anothermbdusted]

you all want some thing funny to read..goto the savage forums they are trying to figure out how to beat the tmaxx being bone stock lol and not a mention about us top dogs with our dominators or MPs LOL

[cbr74]

Got a new diff for the front of my Dom. I see that Ofna has gone to the blue rubber sealed bearings.
The pin between the output gears is a joke. What were they thinking on that one? Anyway, I punched the holes in the output gears up to 1/8" and put a 1/8" X 10mm pin in between them. This should reduce the flex of the gears and keep them from developing slop so quickly at the cup. If nothing else.. it can't hurt.

I got some blue wheel hubs and nuts from an Ultra Pro. They aren't a bolt on, had to file the backside down a bit, but once on there they sure do look sharp.

I also got a set of CV's for the rear, no more dogbones.

[mercenario27]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
i might have a solution for lower body mounts possibly ill let you know later this week if they work out if so they will lower the body about 1/2 inch compared to normal

What I did on my first body post set, I cut the post down and drilled in holes in the post. Later I bought the powerline racing aluminum body post set. That body post set uses screw on body post. I went to the lhs and bought a set of rustler body post 1 1/2", I used them instead of the long post supplied with the set.

SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) is suppose to be finished with his new dominator products. He made a radio tray with a transponder hook in it for the racers. Maybe if a few people drop him an email asking him about making a Body post set that is lowered then the stock he might do it.

One more thing. How come no one switched over to the new ofna board? I like it. Every topic has its own thread.

[Coconut]

If you need body post go to www.mcmaster.com;they carry 6/6 nylon rod that posts can be made of. Much cheaper and it's tough. As far as the OFNA site;I went there but was disappointed that they have no one from OFNA that races the truck visiting. Besides this site has a bunch of good guys that get along good and don't bash each other. Even a guy that has no experience can come here and get help without being made to feel inferior or stupid ;unlike alot of other sites.

[twisted]

coco very well said. i like this forum :D anyway on another note i made my own rear shock tower out of g10 fiberglass. i made it the same hieght as the front dom tower but made the bottom of the tower like the rear dom tower so it bolts up. it came out nice. i just hope it holds up to abuse. my biggest concern is breaking it from lading upside down. i need to make somthing to protect it so this never happens.

[fezzy]

Fitting the rear tower is not hard to do, But you can't run the rear bumper. I shall explain why and how.

Firstly you have to go and buy yourself a front shock tower (duh!!) and a chassis brace set, You need this to copy the front brace setup to the rear. Firstly take your old rear shock tower off and bolt the old shock tower to the new one using nuts and bolts, bolt them together through the very bottom bulkhead mounting holes, The rear bulkheads have two holes in the bulkhead for the shock tower, make sure you bolt the towers together through the bottom ones. Looking at your two shock towers bolted together flip them around till your looking at the old one on top and the new one on the bottom, Use your old shock towers upper bulkhead mounting holes as quides to drill straight through the new shock tower, You only need to drill the upper bulkhead mounting points, Nothing more, Once you have done this simply unbolt the shock towers. The next step is about the most time consuming and difficult bit, But it need not be. You will notice that the arch in the front shock towers that allow them to straddle over the diff housing are not as large as the ones in the rear, SO with your new tall (front) shock tower you can either grind away the material till its big enough to fit over the diff, OR you can just cut out a rectangle with a dremel and metal cutting tool. Once this is done you can start to put things back together, Bolt on your new rear shock tower using the same 2.5mm caphead screws through the lower bulkhead supports and then find two more screws from somewhere else to secure the upper set of bulkhead mounting holes with the shock tower, If you look in your chassis brace set you should have some 24mm self tapping screws, I used those and they fit fine, Just put abit more elbow grease into it as it goes in more :D. Last stage of the mod is modifying a rear bodymount to work on a front shock tower, its really easy to do, just again use the front bodymount from your front shock tower as a guide to drill a second set of holes through your old rear bodymount, The lower set of holes that go to into the front brace mount are in the perfect location, just use the upper ones as guides on your front bodymount to drill two new holes in your rear one. I then suggest fitting your modified rear bodymount to the front or back depending on which is the highest mounting point on your shell because with your modified rear bodymount it is going to sit higher than on the front, So for example if you are running a SUV Shell put the modified rear bodymount onto the rear tall shock tower, and the standard front bodymount onto the front, or Vica-Versa if you run a pickup bodyshell. Last stage is a doddle, just put your bodymount on (depending on which you have chosen after the last statement) onto the rear using the front chassis brace mount from the chassis brace set that you ordered, Unfortunately the mount on the rear of the centre bulkhead cover isn't offset like the front so your rear chassis brace is going to be abit wonky, But then again you'd be girl if you said it was horrible.

If you can I still recommend you just buy a tall SaBR Rear Shock Tower, It will allow you to use your bumpers, standard rear chassis brace and bodymounts with no modification.

Hope this helped :cool:

[twisted]

fezzy thanks for the very clear instructions. im gonna buy the ss rc rear extended tower.its a good price and there not to far from me.
i did have two questions about the moding of the front tower for rear use though,when drilling out the two bulkhead screws dont the two upper holes run into the excisting holes on the front tower?
and what are you using for upper camber rod mounts? the front upper arm mounting holes? if so they are lower and will alter roll center wont they?
thanks

[fezzy]

The upper/lower bulkhead holes are offset differently to each other compared to no the front bulkhead, This is why the bumpers wont work either. I actually forgot to mention about the rear upper arms/turn buckles... You just mount those to where the hinge pins usually go through on the front, They do need some adjustment because the hinge pin holes are in a different location to the holes in the rear shock tower for the upper arms, I can't remember if they are offset more or less, It should be pretty obvious if you did it though.

The SS Racing Shocktower looks to be a nice piece, I might get one myself.

[twisted]

i have another diff question.....
after shimming the ring and pinion gears how much free roll does your trucks have? i noticed that mine does not roll to far with a decent push, prolly 2 1/2 feet.
lmk as this makes me wonder about if it will be to much strain on the clutch and engine.

[Coconut]

Mine will roll easy. Like four feet with a gentle push . Could be the clutch gear mesh? With the wheels on the diffs should be smooth and free depending on the weight of diff fluid. Didn't you last say it was notcy feeling? Did you remove a thin shim?

[twisted]

its definetly in the the ring and pinion and not the cluth bell mesh,i didnt use the rcomended shims as i did not have any. i do now though should i rebuild them with the rite shims? i bought the kyosho shims so i have all of em. lmk asap. thanks again.:D

[Coconut]

I would . With those shims you can change them in 0.1mm thicknesses. That way if it feels alittle to notchy when dry fit ;you can swap so that you remove 0.1mm at a time.

[twisted]

well i just got done with shimming the rear diff, man what a procedure! any way after shimming and checking i found out why i was getting no free roll in the truck.what i was doing was shimming till i hade no more backlash in between the ring and pinion,and then after putting it all back together i would notice the truck had no free roll.what was happening was that when you assemble the diffs inbetween the bulkheads and tie everything together this tightens it up even more. ahhhg. now i have a little back lash in between the ring and pinion and it free rolss nicely.
do you have any backlash in between the two gears? i would assume you would want some so you dont prematurly wear out the gears, rite?

[fezzy]

If by 'backlash' you mean play in between the ring/pinion then yes, Thats something you definetely want, But not too much. Basically when I shimmed my diffs I tryed to shim as much as possible to remove side to side play and play in the ring gear while still maintaining some play in the ring/pinion gears and smooth 'no notches' operation. It all went very smooth and since I did it I have been running on damp grass, damp grass up a hill and not one crack since. Before I did it they where very easy to make crack, Just a couple of weeks ago my mate totally did his rear Dom diff too, I told him to shim them but he insisted it'd be OK.

[anothermbdusted]

unless he has the cnc diffs in it he'll be sorry he didnt listen to you:D :D :D :D :D if all else fails explain to him that if they do blow how much it will cost verses shimming them andthat should change his mind..ive found that if you play with another persons pocket book then they generally listen to you..and if they dont well they got money to burn and ask them to buy you the cnc diffs for your truck:D

[twisted]

well guys i just bought to complete new diffs off ebay.outer housings, aluminum diff case ,rinng and pinion,bearings and all the spider gears and drive cups.one diff i got for 16.50 and the other for 29.00. :cool:

[anothermbdusted]

well went to go race today but not enough people there to do so...so we ran 4 mt trucks 3 buggies and it was for fun i was 4th back and the buggies were in the back with the feild consisiting of 1 crono buggy 1 ofna 9.5 and one hyper 7 pro and 2 savages and 1 tmaxx then mine...started off well and in the first turn i onver took the other trucks but the buggies got more torque and can acellerate alot faster then i can..but i did manage to hold 3rd 2 laps and the 9.5 being behind me on the 4 lap the crono went side ways and i had to lock up the brakes to avoid hitting him and when i did this i went sideways into the jump and landed on the front right side wheel.i got tagged from under neith by the hyper and landed upside down they marshelled it and when i hit the quads i saw my spring go south and my truck go morth not a pretty picture.but oh well come to find out i snapped a shock shaft in half so that ended it for me for the day as i had no replacements for it and had to go to a differnt hobby shop to get some but now i got 4 of them just in case,,,i dont think the crash is what broke it,,it just finished it off thats all...i hit the table top a little fast and tryed to set up in mid air for a tight turn and landed at a HARD angle and tumbled it like 5-6 times into the wall and i think thats what mainly caused the weak point in it but oh well its only a shaft...heres a pic sorry not clear

[twisted]

nice.sorry for the bad day of racing!i just bought a set of 4 shock shafts for back ups for mine! i do have a slight problem tho, i cant get the bottem shock end off,its stripped out and wont come off :mad:

[anothermbdusted]

twisted what part are you talking about thats stripped and what kind of shocks are we talking about?and for everyones knowledge they dont make a shock shaft for the 3.5mm mugen bigbores that like titanium just the stock ones thats it...i guess i shouldnt beat on my truck so much trying to break it:D well till about another month at least when the local moto cross guys said i can run it over there after they are done for the day..cant wait they got a tabletop that is just insanly HIGH!!! and a good run where i should be able to hit it at full throttle should make for some good air time........:cool: still waiting on parts from ACE its starting to piss me off since i ordered it on what wed.....:mad:

[Coconut]

Titanium shafts of the same diameter would not be stronger than good steel;which I take Mugens are. The Titanium nitrated coating would make them more wear resisiant. bending/breaking shock shafts is just one of the things you put up with unless you want them so thick that they hinder performance or cause damage some where else on the suspension ;I guess. As far as the rodend being stripped;I would first use a pair of pliers and pull while turning. As a last resort then it could be cut off part way with a dremel and then a exact-o knife. If its turning then it probably cross threaded and needs to be replaced anyway.At least you have a brand that's holding;the 9.5 rodends are so soft they strip easily and the balls get loose. To nhold the shock shaft you have two options. If it has a nut and you locktited it like I do to keep it from their habit of unscrewing;then a socket on the nut should do. If not then small dikes in the last thread upper shaft should do it. That how I handle it anyway; and I've had a few over the years. Also my share of bent shock shafts.

[anothermbdusted]

i guess i need to be more specific in what i mean or what i wanted to know..lol what i wanted to know is if they made titanium shafts for it like the ones used in AE cars and losi car you know the titanium nitrate shafts...thats what i was looking for like the ones that come on the ue 9.5 ones.but they dont i just found out today

[twisted]

anothembusted, having trouble getting your stuf from ace?get this i ordered just a carb boot from nitro house and its been 12 days and still no boot. i called them up and they have no tracking number for it and said i just have to wait!they did say if it wasnt at my house around wednsday give them a call. as long as they get your money i dont think they care of anythinh else much! :mad:

[anothermbdusted]

i feel for you man at least i havent gotten charged for it but i dont know if he shipped it or not and if not then forget it ill order it locally instead and have it in 1-2 day for 3$ more

[twisted]

anothembusted you going to the joisey maxx bash?

[anothermbdusted]

no but i wish i could..going to see about visiting the tmaxx challenge though in june might race if i can guarentee the time off from work

[twisted]

i will be at the joisey maxx race,where is the tmaxx challenge gonna be?

[mercenario27]

RCCA will be holding a Monster Truck race at R/C Madness in Enfield, CT Dates for the event: July 25, 26 and 27 Classes: Big Block, Small Block, E-Maxx, Clodbuster/TXT-1/Jugg

[anothermbdusted]

OK guys here it is....dont know how it works yet on the track yet but will let you know this weekend looks like it will work well...the only thing i can see that you need to do to make it fit is put a couple of washers on all the screws to raise the top front plate a little so it has clearence to turn as it is a little taller then stock...any questions then ask ill try to explain to you as best as i can..

[anothermbdusted]

2

[anothermbdusted]

3

[twisted]

what steering is that? :confused:

[anothermbdusted]

it is from a ofna 9.5 pro

[pcjr]

Hello guys. I just rebuilt my front & rear diff on my Dominator. I put 10,000 wt. ofna diff oil on both front & rear diffs. Is this going to cause a problem?

Thanks for your help.:)

[twisted]

it shouldnt make any problems, hoped ya shimmed the diffs!they make the oil in different wieghts for different handling chararistics.

on another note i ran the dominator today. its not quite finished but close enough so i could run it.the diffs held up so far and i got on it it pretty good. thanks to all who helped! now as soon as my front shock tower and shocks get here ill be that much closer!. i did get my ss rc rear extended shock tower today... nice, very nice.

[anothermbdusted]

cool gald to hear that you finally got to run the truck....and when you get finished post a pic would ya....:D

[twisted]

pics will be posted soon! hey dont ever run hpi savage clutch bells. they dont hold up to the steel spur.and my mesh was set correctly to.what manufacture bells do you use?

[anothermbdusted]

ofna

[pcjr]

could not find shimms @ my lhs & did not know part number. when i rebuilt them I found a thin washer that fit the back end of the ring gear. when I closed the diff case, the ring gear was pushed closer to the pinion gear. I remember reading a post here which also referred me to another web site on how to shim the diffs by putting a shim at one end of the ring gear.

I already ran my truck & don't hear crackling sound anymore. Can you guys tell me the shim part numbers in case I need to rebuild the diffs again. thanks.

[Clan O'Riley]

I was wondering how to take the blue anodizing off of my aluminum parts. I have seen a trucks here that have done it and i think it looks cool. So could anyone tell me how to take the blue off?:confused:

[anothermbdusted]

pcjr:http://home.csumb.edu/d/davidsonzackr/world/tips/shims.shtml


clan o riley: use easy off oven cleaner and let it sit on the parts for about a hour then rubb off the blue finish....but be p[repared to do ALOT of hand polishing(and prey that you have a buffer or a dremal tool with a buffer to do so cause it takes a lot of rubbing to get to shine like chrome) good luck and have fun

[Coconut]

The shims are Kyosho part number 96644;toer carries them. they are 8X10mm shims in three different thicknesses; 10ea. For the best diff shimmomg instruxtions I've seen go www.maxxtraxx.com and ask for a link to 7.5 diff instructions. Then you can print a copy.

[Clan O'Riley]

i just got done running my truck and the right rear dog bone broke in half! is there universals i canget for it? i think it may have broke from me jumping it. but i don't see how, i only jump it less than a foot in the air. this happen to anyone else?:confused:

[fezzy]

The weakest part of the Dominators drivetrain are the dogbones, They are made from a soft steel rather than a hardened steel. Depending on which one you are referring to (Centre Rear or Rear Dogbones) you can replace them. Unlimited Engineering make some Titanium Centre Dogbones and you can also fit a Centre Rear Kyosho MP7.5 dogbone, with a little grinding with a dremel, If you broke the rear drive dogbones you can replace those with Rear CVA's made by OFNA.

[twisted]

hey guys gearing question here. i blew my 14 tooth bell sat and was forced to run a 12 tooth bell. way to small. i have a 63 spur and also running maxx mulchers wich are about a half inch higher then the mt3 swoosh tire. any help here would be apreciated. thanks

[anothermbdusted]

clan o riley i dont know how you broke it but i can tell you this i regularly get about 6 feet air on the quads at my track and found a enpty lot today that i got about 10-11 feet air and didnt break a cva at all now the dog bones i can see doing this cause they have slack and can pop out almost with the suspension in the air even if you got the long drive cups it is possible so do yourself a favor and pick up some ofna cva's for the truck..

twisted: what do you want torque speed or overall performance?and since your asking and know what it was like befor the bell blowing did you like it or not or what?you say the 12 is to low but you didnt say if the 14 was to high or not low so ill have to say go with the 13 i dont know...i run a 62 13 rightnow in mine and im switching to a 62 12 this week....

[twisted]

anotherm, it was nice almost perfect with the 14 on it but i was also running smaller tires.the mt3 with the ofna swoosh tires are about a half inch shorter then the mulchers i run now.im gonna try to get a 13 and a 14 tooth seeing how i will be racing, i will need them.

your ratio is 4.77 and mine is 5.25.

[fuzzylogic]

Anyone using the Delta Force P8 engine with the dom?

Was thinking of getting it to replace my xtm24-7 as it has been giving me endless headaches.

How's the performance and reliability of the Delta Force engine on the dom for those that have had experience with it.

[caseymou]

What engine are the dominators 80% and RTR coming with now? What about the MP RTR?

[anothermbdusted]

from my understanding they all come with the new 8 port call the shop as some mps are coming in the form of doms instead so you might be able to get lucky and get one of these...as for the delta series engines i thought that that engine series was discontinued i could be wrong though...how much money do you have to spend there is alot more better engine out there just need to know how much you can spend thats all

[caseymou]

With the ace hobbies deal on the mp it is so hard to choose. The Dom RTR $475 - the MP RTR $360 - the pirate 10 RTR $300
each has its problems. Here is what I would do in each case.

Dom RTR - most expensive and therefore the least probable to buy. But would interest me more if it came with an 8 port *power is good* ~$475

MP - ugly a$$ body, immediatly replace, list wheels and tires on ebay, hopefully get ~35 for them new. Go to ace hobbies and buy the Dom rims *chrome* and some new meats. $360 - 35+55+new body?? What about 8 port *I really like power* ~400 total RTR

Pirate 10 - Holy crap how fast does this thing go? Now available with steel two speed (I am currently verifying this) Have I said I love speed? I like the look too. What about 8 port in this? *really don't need it anyway* Only thing is - What happens when I want to jump something or accidently crash, I've heard these are rather brittle. Still the speed....~$300 + parts when I crash

I think the MP and dom come with steel spurs and I am currently verifying if the p10 comes with a steel 2 speed.




What should I do? Any constructive comments?

[fezzy]

The P10 is in a completely different catagorey, YES its very fast, But its 1/10, Don't expect it to go over anything other than light off-road, Also 1/10 parts + 60mph+ = painful breakage.

The MP is a very good truck, But IMO the Dom is still worth the extra money, Its not just the wheels/tyres thats different, There is much more than that which over all makes it faster, handle better and is more durable than the MP.. If you can, save a little longer and get the Dom and you wont be disappointed, But if you want just pure straight line speed in a small package get the P10, But it wont go off-roading alot.

[caseymou]

My off road experience consists of parks, playgrounds, my gravel drive, and my yard. I have no plans of mudbogging and not very likely to race formally. I would think the p10 is at least as strong as a buggy (1/8 buggy?) the buggys do all I want them to do streaking across the grass and an occasional small jump. Ace also has a deal on a 1/8 buggy with force .25 for $299 RTR.

[fezzy]

A 1/10 truck like the P10M is no where near as durable as a buggy, NO WHERE near. I've also been told that the P10M has some driveshaft problems, Basically it is a 1/10 truck and 1/10 drivetrian with the power over a 1/8 .21 engine, It barely copes. Under heavy stress enviroments (EG off-road) they have a tendancy to snap front CVA's for fun.

A good friend of mine has one, He bought some standard P10M Off-Set rims and some dirt hawg 2s, He also locked the centre diff to prevent the ballooning (You HAVE to do this to get any sort of control), I did see a good time to be had driving one but this was in a parking lot, I think it'd be abit of a handful off-road.

[caseymou]

fezzy,

In your opinion, would the 1/8 RTR ofna buggy be a better investment for fun (acehobbies) than the p10?

[Coconut]

A buggy is fine imo if you have a smooth area to bash in. The MT's are better for other rougher situations. One reason buggies are often considered to be stronger is that they do not have the large heavy tires that a MT does. Even then buggies blow diffs;bent towers etc. It really hard to beat a MT for bashing. For track running that's a different matter.

[mercenario27]

Get the Dominator RTR. Everyone ends up converting their MP into a Dom anyway.

[twisted]

well said mercanario

[Kenny123]

I was wondering if you could help me I just bought some used tires and wheels, but I don't like the wheels. How do I take the tires off the wheels, what can remove the glue?

[Philly's Finest]

Put them on a cookie tray and bake them at 300 degrees. Works great and better than boiling them. Beware though it smells but not as bad as when you boil them.

[Kenny123]

Does this effect the rubber in any why? Does it make it harder or softer? How long do I leave them in?

[Coconut]

Heat will harden the rubber somewhat. Same goes for storing the tires in a hot area like garage during the summer.

[anothermbdusted]

boil them off..takes awhile but youll get them off for sure i dont know about throwing them in the oven but i personally wouldn't do that i like my house smelling the way it is now:D ..

[Clan O'Riley]

okay my steering servo is broke. what do you guys recommend? i have an airtronics radio and would like to get either an airtronics servo or a hitec servo. which one? i have no idea

[Clan O'Riley]

hey kenny, get a lot of acetone and soak them over night. it will loosen that CA glue right up and then u just pull them off.

[anothermbdusted]

all depends on how much you want to spend if money no object then get a 94358 its way sweet and i can contest that they are very strong.if money is a object then go with hitech just dont get a 645mg if you race as they dont center very well and if you got long straights then youll be bobbing all over the place with it...goood luck

[Clan O'Riley]

about how long does a steering servo last? my 945mg only lasted since last Christmas. i hope if i spend $100 on that airtronics servo it will last for a lot longer than my broken one:mad:

[Jimr]

I run the digital hitec 5645,real nice servo for $54 168oz. torque at 6 volts too.:D

[fezzy]

I run the HS5645MG Digital too and its provided more than enough speed/torque for steering on my Dom, Never had a problem with it either and it comes with a ally servo horn!. :cool:

[Coconut]

I use the 94358 and it is just the fastest;strongest;great centering servo I've used on a monster. well worht the price in MHO

[twisted]

well guys im back after my computer crashed! anyway i installed the proline conversion and i used the stock dom shocks and i didnt like it with the stock springs so i went a different rout!

i took the maxx shock towers and cut them (where they mount to the bulkheads) just under the top mounting holes and used maxx shocks.now you can slam your bodys for that ultra low race look and this setup works great too.i did have to do a little more then what was stated but i wont bore ya with that.

[GTX]

hey guys, I am getting ready to buy my MP roller from Stormer. Just sayin hello and showing you what's going in it...

My WS7 -

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL154/1006779/1876628/22485128.jpg

http://pic6.picturetrail.com/VOL154/1006779/1876628/22485119.jpg

Parts list-

XR2 Radio System

The RB Worlds S7 you see above

Paris AL650 pipe

Hyper 21 pullstart unit

Kyosho Kanai II Air filter

Kyosho Kanai II clutch setup

RPM Titans dyed black with T-Maxx stock tires

Pro-Line all black Jeep CJ8 body

Two Airtronics 98358z 200oz. servos


Let me know what you guys think :D

[twisted]

is your engine brand new? the reason i ask is if you put the recoil conversion on it you void all warrentys on engine.

[GTX]

It's not new and I bought it off ebay a while back. It has 3 tanks on the new piston and sleeve.

And yeah, I know that if I drill the crank it voids the warranty. I have yet to do it, but I want to...

[twisted]

why would you drill the crank????you can get a pull start conversion from unlimited engenering for the rb engines or better yet get a bump box,they make life so much easier.:D

[Philly's Finest]

Amen to that!

Part of the appeal of the dom for me was saying goodbye to pulling those damn cords.;)

[twisted]

ya i went out side the other day for a quick run and decided to use the pull start (left it on) and startyed pulling away for almost 3 minutes..forget that i ran back inside and grabbed the bump box and vrooom. :cool:

[GTX]

I do have a box. I can see you don't exactly know what I was talking about...

In order to attach the pulstart, you have the drill a hole in the crank. The Hyper 21 fan has a small pin that goes into that hole, turning the crank over.

I will use the box, but if it dies 100 feet away, I can just grab my glow starter and start it our there with the pullstart....get me?

[Clan O'Riley]

well i bought the 94358 servo from airtronics. hope it is a good one:D

[twisted]

gtx, no need to get all bent out of shape ;) i didnt know you had a bump box,you never said you did. check out ue ,they m,ake a pull start conversion for rb motors.no drilling!

[GTX]

Twisted - sorry if I came across bent...I wasn't

I have owned a few UE parts myself and know all about them. I have had their Widetrac suspension kit, their steel CVD's, and their 10mm tranny conversion.

And they do mod the crankshafts. It's the only way how. This is a quote from their site-

We take new motors, disassembled them and take the crankshafts out, then package up the disassembled motor.

We then modify the crankshafts and make up pullstart kits.

Then re-combine them with the disassembled engines.

[dave56bug]

I've got my Monster Pirate/dom Hybrid for sale on Ebay right now, but this forum wont allow me to post a link.

It has Proline bulkheads, proline suspension, mip cvd's, aluminum rims, and panther meatgrinder tires.

email me for more info dave56bug@aol.com

Dave.

[dave56bug]

It is item #3126667772

Dave.

[GTX]

What's your auction number??? :rolleyes:

[twisted]

dave selling already? why?

[dave56bug]

3126667772

Dave

[dave56bug]

:) Hey Twisted, I'm selling off a bunch of stuff. I plan to get an 1/8th scale buggy of some sort too. So I need some cash.

Its a killer truck, and i'll probably regret selling it....


I've also got some dominator rims, so i can make an 1/8th scale buggy into an MT if wanted too......

Dave.

[GTX]

DUDE! I will buy your Hybrid from ya!


What is your reserve set at? How much do you need to get out of this deal?

I have my own exhuast, air filter, clutch, engine, electronics, tires, wheels, and body, so if you could lower it a bit, I could buy it or we could come to another arrangement. Let me know, I am VERY interested in that truck!

[dave56bug]

I'm sure we can come to some kind of an agreement.

Email me at dave56bug@aol.com for details.

Dave.

[GTX]

YGM...

[twisted]

whats the largest tire any on you guys have put on the dominator?i want to go bigger then the mt3's and the swoosh tires. i have the proline conversion and was just wondering if a larger tire like jumbo maxx would fit on with out hitting the pipe when the wheels are turned. thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

OK.. guys.. i am new to the Monster truck scene, and have decided to get a Ofna Dominator.. How does this truck compare to the Tmaxx, or Savage.. I have heard that they are the truck to get.. Also, what is the difference between the Dominator and the Monster Pirate.. Are the parts interchangeable between the 2??

Are there any NECESARRY upgrades i need?? And will Team Orion Wheels fit on the truck?? Or is there a special Hex that i need to buy to get the regular wheels to fit on the truck??

Thanks for all the help..

Daniel

[jdavid2002]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
OK.. guys.. i am new to the Monster truck scene, and have decided to get a Ofna Dominator.. How does this truck compare to the Tmaxx, or Savage.. I have heard that they are the truck to get.. Also, what is the difference between the Dominator and the Monster Pirate.. Are the parts interchangeable between the 2??

Are there any NECESARRY upgrades i need?? And will Team Orion Wheels fit on the truck?? Or is there a special Hex that i need to buy to get the regular wheels to fit on the truck??

Thanks for all the help..

Daniel

I'm with Daniel...help us out with any info...it would be very difficult to read all 28 pages of this thread!!:D

John

[jdavid2002]

Originally posted by Jimr
I run the digital hitec 5645,real nice servo for $54 168oz. torque at 6 volts too.:D

Man, that is cheap for a digital...how long have ou had it? does it work very well? Where did you get it?

[jdavid2002]

Hey guys, why do alot of the Dominators I see around have the really long body posts? Is that for protection? Or do some people just not cut them down?

[dave56bug]

Dominators and monster pirates are simply an 1/8th scale buggy with big tires, the Dominator has longer front shocks, and a slipper clutch.

Parts are full interchangeable between the Dom, and MP.

Any tires designed for Tmaxx will fit Dom rims, but Maxx rims will not fit, as the offset and hex size are way off.

Dom's and Mp's are signifigantly different designs from the the tmaxx and savage, the suspension arms are short, and the chassis and centre of gravity are way lower. They handle better than maxx's and savages on a race track, But if you going over rocks and roots etc, a higher ground clearance truck like the maxx and savage are better suited.

Some people have had problems with the dom and mp cvd's but i think hyper7 universals fit.

Dave.

[jdavid2002]

Thanks Dave, I have heard that the 8mm cvd's solve the CVD problem that was with the 6mm ones. Is this true?

[dgrobe2112]

hs5645mg for 54.95 at www.servocity.com

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, i got a hs925mg servo 107/.08.. will that provide me with enough torque for the Dominator?? what is a good torque needed for this truck??

[dave56bug]

Any servo with over 100 oz, of torque will work, I personally use a Hitec 5945 digital servo on my monster trucks. 180 with a transit speed of .13

The 925 is good, its 100oz, with .08 transit so its nice and fast.

Dave.

[dgrobe2112]

actually it has 107.. so you think it will be fine with the truck??

[dave56bug]

lol, ok 107, i rounded down.

It should be fine. its got metal gears?

Dave.

[jdavid2002]

SERVOCITY SAYS ITS 107/.20, AM I MISSING SOMETHING? i MIGHT BE LOOKING AT THE WRONG ONE...THATS A .12 DIFFRENCE, IS THAT GONNA BE NOTICABLE?

[dave56bug]

Servocity says .20? The 925 is their coreless speed version, even on 4.8v its .11 transit. I think servo city screwed up.



Dave.

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah.. servo city is wrong, cuz at tower it says .08 and 103 oz

Thanks dave for the info.. and you think it will work huh??

[dave56bug]

Yes it'll work.

Dave.

[fezzy]

Daniel, Welcome to our little band of brothers here on RCZ!.

Now to answer some of your questions :)
How does this truck compare to the Tmaxx, or Savage
Well I'l start with the Savage, The Dominator handles better than a Savage due to a much more balanced chassis and lower COG (Centre of Gravity) design, Its also faster than a Savage both off the mark and top end, Totally standard. I would also say that the Dominator is slightly more durable than a Savage although not by much as the Savage is pretty darn durable as it is. Comparing it to a T-Maxx and there are even bigger differences, Firstly a Dominator can run circles round a T-Maxx in terms of handling, The T-Maxx is the worst handling of the 3 trucks you mentioned, The T-Maxx is also the least durable of the 3 and in many cases out of all my friends 2.5 T-Maxxes in which they have broken, it has not taken very much to break them, Sometimes I also snigger for how patheticly easy they broke :D j/k. The T-Maxx also lacks alot of power, Although it is the faster of the 3 trucks its also the least poweful, 'There is no replacement for displacement' comes to mind here, Not that the 2.5 engine is slow.. Far from it, Its very fast.... But make no mistake, It isn't and never will be a .21 and so severely lacks low end brute power.


Also, what is the difference between the Dominator and the Monster Pirate
The Dominator & Monster Pirate are basically the same truck, Infact the newer built MP's are now coming with the tall front shock tower and rear hyper 7 shocks F/R, just like on a Dominator, They're also coming with aluminium diff housings. With this in mind the only differences are; Tyres (MP has huge ones and the Dominator has little ones), Slipper Clutch (Dom has a slipper clutch for tuning traction and abosbring shocks to the drivetrain, Where as the MP has a solid spool), Bodyshell :rolleyes:, Front Chassis brace (Dominators front chassis brace connects directly to the front shock tower for added chassis rigidity, the MP has one that goes to the steering top plate which is less rigid).

Thats about it really, Depending on whether you what brute size and go-anywhere ability or a lighter more athletic nimble monster truck then your answer is either going to be MP or Dominator.


Are there any NECESARRY upgrades i need?? And will Team Orion Wheels fit on the truck?? Or is there a special Hex that i need to buy to get the regular wheels to fit on the truck??

Any T-Maxx sized tyre will fit the Dominator MT3 Rim but the hexes for the Dominator are a larger (17mm) in size and also feature much more offset than the T-Maxx rim. As far as necessary upgrades where really isn't any, Alot of people have had problems with the Dogbones/CVAs/Drivecups but over the 12 months I've owned mine I have encountered no such problem.

[twisted]

i agree with fezzy 100% about the dom.the only things i know you should take a look at with the dom is the shimming of the diffs.as for the cvas and drive cups,..i think most of the problem with them is improper shimming,like fezzy i have had no problem with mine but i have switched over to the longer drive cups but becuase i went with the proline suspension and unlimited enginering's cvds.i bashed mine hard today and walked away clean! go with the dom!

p.s.
fezzy where you from? i notice you spell tire,tyre like they do in austraila.

[pineapplet]

hmm.. i own both a 2.5 maxx (not much mods) and a near-SABRed out Dom, and we have semi-regular meetings with me m8s' Savages too...

They're all pretty comparable but the Dom is a bit of a bore to drive around the track as it handles without any theatrics or wild stuff (which is good if you're racing, but not too exciting if you're looking for a 3-5 truck fun-race.. with lots of jostling and shoving on the track.. . :D :D ) Basically, when the Dom goes against maxx-style trucks, it leaves them in the dust so bad its not funny or fun.... It corners, jumps and handles the bumps and woops without even flinching whilst other trucks are having massive chassis roll and all sorts of CG problems...

(These are just my humble opinions... so don't flame me!)

here's a pic of me Dom... trying out a new overtaking technique on my m8 Blooclod's savage... :D

http://www.******.net/media/Target-Savage....jpg

[Philly's Finest]

Hey twisted thanks for the rear tower bro. It's very sweet. I'm gonna post some feeback for you here because I saw you were selling some stuff here also. Can't wait for maxxtraxx to come back up!:D

[twisted]

thanx dude,glad to hear your happy!i have a lot of dominator parts iam trying to get rid of.if ya know anyone.. lmk sell for a geat deal!

[twisted]

hey pinaple, nice pic brother!i hear ya its all about the fun.if you cant have fun in rc you shouldnt be here. run what ever makes ya happy! :D

[Keyz28]

I'm looking for an extra diff if anyone has one, or extra diff parts. Thanks in advance.

[twisted]

keyz, ygm

[dgrobe2112]

Fezzy, thanks for the answers.. And also from the Maxx owner.. to say his opinion of the 2.. I have allready ordered the Dominator..

This website is the bomb when it comes to questions and answers.. Fezzy, i beleive you even helped me a little with my XXXNT in the Losi section..

This site rocks..

[fezzy]

No problem man, Not had the Losi long but the Dom I have had for at least a year

[jdavid2002]

Originally posted by twisted
i agree with fezzy 100% about the dom.the only things i know you should take a look at with the dom is the shimming of the diffs.as for the cvas and drive cups,..i think most of the problem with them is improper shimming,like fezzy i have had no problem with mine but i have switched over to the longer drive cups but becuase i went with the proline suspension and unlimited enginering's cvds.i bashed mine hard today and walked away clean! go with the dom!

p.s.
fezzy where you from? i notice you spell tire,tyre like they do in austraila.

Is there a manual or picture of how to correctly shim the diffs. Do you shim them up, down, in or out? I want to do this right the first time, so with your help or anybody elses help I hope I can...and another question I have is, what is the diffrence between a CVA and a CVD? Thanks

[fezzy]

There is no difference between a CVA or CVD, Only that 'Constant Velocity Drive' is branded by MIP and OFNA use the term 'Contstant Velocity Axel', They are both of a same design and function identically.

Shimming the diffs is easier than you might think, Basically the object of shimming the diffs is to remove as much of the side-to-side play of the diff against the pinion gear and provide a good mesh between them. Thanks to Hobaos high quality control (sarcasm) I can't tell you that you need x ammount before the ring gear or x ammount after the ring gear, I ended up using 1 behind the ring gear (forcing it towards the pinion) and 2 on the other end, On my front diff (Which was the one that was cracking before I did it) had either 1 each side or 2, Can't quite remember now!. Anyhow, Like I said.. Basically put the shims on to remove as much play from the diff as possible and making it as 'tight' as possible without causing binding and a 'rough' and 'notchy' feel. While you have your diff apart too I highly recommend soaking all the diff cups in some degreaser to remove grease and any old threadlocker from out of the tapped grub screw hole, Clean all the diff up as best as possible and rebuild them all using some thickish grease and possibly even diff oil in the diff housing itself (if you are confident you can tune the diffs to how YOU want the truck to handle), Personally I've only ever used grease. Finally while your 'rebuilding and shimming' the diff I would recommend you use RED threadlocking compound on your diff drivecup grub screws, I mentioned you should soak them in some de-greaser or other liquid that will break down the old grease/threadlocker, This way when you come to put on your red threadlocker it will dry and secure properly. I say to use red for one simple reason, Ever since I got my Dominator those damn drivecup grub screws have been coming loose and thanks to a centre/rear one coming loose this almost knackared my rear diff, So I swapped the front to rear and vica versa (Hence why I said the front diff was the worst of the two above), I would also recommend swapping the diffs to get even wear as your rear diff always puts down more power and therefore obviously get heavier use. Anyhow, Back to the threadlocker... Since I rebuilt my diffs, Shimmed them, re-greased and added the red threadlocking compound to my drivecups not ONE of the suckers has come loose since, Also my diffs have not even made ONE single noise, Which I am incredibly suprised and over-joyed about, After I did all this reliability has shot up 100% (No exageration).

I did this probably about 1-2 months ago to give you some idea, And like I said everything is now 100% better, The only reliability issues I have now are with my damn Hyper21... Going to have to sort that out sometime soon too :cool:

Hope this helped.

[jdavid2002]

Fezzy! Thanks for the help! I just picked my truck up yesterday from a guy who took really good care of it. I will ask him if he shimmed the diffs. Thanks alot:p

Oh yeah, this thing looks like a freakin GIANT up next to my 1/10 RC10GT...:eek:

[fezzy]

Congratulations on getting it, And yea I have a XXX-NT and it dwarfs the thing, Especially with MP Tyres :D

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i am still waiting on mine John..:( i like yours man.. when we went and got it.. I knew i had to have one.. so maybe in about a week or 2.. :D cant wait....

[twisted]

they are a blast! bashed mine yesterday and was thinking about going out today but its raining. oh well.
p.s.. my suspension and steering link mod works nicely. :D

[Clan O'Riley]

could someone give me the web site name for Sabr. I think i would like to check out some of there parts:cool:

[dave56bug]

I typed smash and bash racing into Yahoo! for this

http://www.knology.net/~smashandbashracing/

:)
Dave.

[Clan O'Riley]

ok i am wondering how anybody here doesn't break parts like i do. i just bought the rear cva's and one of them just bent. now i was just jumping my truck maybe a foot or less in the air. in the past month i have easily spent $200 bucks in replacement parts including that new servo. i am just about fed up with this truck and i am seriously thinking about selling it. i dont know it just seems to eat parts for the fun of it. also i have spent no more than one hour driving it and about 3 weeks total waiting on parts. i am not hard on things, i have seen other people jump there trucks a lot higher and nothing happens but this truck seems to chew parts up and spit them out. :mad: :confused: :mad: :confused: :mad: :confused: :mad: :mad:

[twisted]

i notice with the dominator if you do not have it set up rite it has a tendency to break parts.example with the cvas or dog bones.some people are breaking these and others never do.the reason being in my oppinion is not properly shimming them.if they are bending or breaking they could be botteming out in the drive cup or have so much slop they could be bouncing around inbetween the two drive cups casing them to get damaged.
same with the diffs.these trucks are on the heavy side and have alot of power and if everything is not set up well it can cause problems.

like i said above this is just my oppinion and mean no disrespect by it. :D

[drader]

It took awhile to get my dom/MP sorted out, but I no longer break anything - EVER. I went through 6 bones, several spur gears, a new chassis (darned curb), 7 shock shafts - here's what I did to end all this:

-grumpy Tom lexan bumpers are a must!!!!! THEY WORK.
-center diff stopped the bones from breaking
-double-up the blue aluminum plates, use longer screws
-make a flexible roll cage, out of rubber tubes, PVC, nerf football - whatever, just protect the top of the car, and make it flexable so it doesn't transmit shock when landing upside down.

[Clan O'Riley]

well i put spacers in the shocks and that seemed to stop the binding on the cva. now i need to shim the diffs. what shims do i buy? o by the way thanx for the info guys!:D

[twisted]

you need the kyosho assortment bag of 8x10mm shimms.sorry i dont have the part #.
also i went out bashing today.had a good time.i did manage to break some stuff though.i broke a shock screw off in the tower,an antenna tube and punched a body mount through the body.oh ya i also broke a body munt. not too bad.

[Coconut]

Kyosho 96644;tower carries them.

[Clan O'Riley]

i was driving on sunday and i snapped the left rear drivshaft. this was the $40 cva ones that are suppose to hold up. now i am really mad because these broke. i was jumping the usual 1.5 feet in the air and bam it snapped off. my slipper clutch is set fine. if i bought a center diff. would it solve this snapping problem because i have now broken the original dog bone and the cva. or is there any theorys on why these things are snapping? Also could i buy some titanium rear driveshafts or have some on make them?:confused:

[twisted]

clan read the post above,we talked about in theroy why this might happen.also i have two pairs of cva and axles for sale if you want them. lmk at shadow@mail.cnyinternet.com.

p.s.
i dont think a slipper would help becuase this is not from the power of the engine but from the suspension.

[Clan O'Riley]

sorry i didnt see that thread above.:rolleyes: also i called ofna and they will replace my cva's for free but the catch is they will only do it once. how much do u want for them any ways. i might be intereted if they are cheap.

[twisted]

well they sell i think brand new for 30.00 a pair..i would sell both pairs i have for 45.00,.lmk

[PCC]

I'm wondering why people are complaining about the rear shock towers on their Dominators as being a bit too short? My buddy has a MP that he converted to a Dominator (he works two minutes from Ace Hobbies). He's using Mugen Bigbores all around with Dominator shock towers front and rear and his truck bottoms on the chassis. My brother is in the process of building his own version of a Dominator with his MP and he has no problems with bottoming the shocks before the chassis touches down on the ground.

BTW, I'm getting closer to finishing my Worlds II truggy. I got the center diff mounted, the front shock tower made, Mugen XR Works rear shocks front and rear (rears are Mugen Bigbores), just need to finish the radio tray and put it all back together.

[twisted]

the rear shock tower is not too much of a proble when using the stock dominator tires but when you use traxxas style tire wich have a slightly higher sidewall this is where the chassis not boteming out comes into play.
good luck finishing your buggy!

[PCC]

Yeah, but my brother is using the stock MP tires with the stock MP rear shocks.

[fezzy]

The Mugen shocks actually have a shorter shock body so it obviously must not be a problem, When using teh H7 Shocks though it is a problem as the shock body is longer. This means what when you push the rear of the truck right down the shock body bottoms out with the spring retainer JUST before the chassis can bottom out with the ground.

[twisted]

yip :D

[dgrobe2112]

Is there a set of threaded shock bodies for the Dominator?? Can someone please list the part numbers?? Also, is there a difference between front and rear shocks for the dominator??

Thanks

[dave56bug]

Ofna 9.5 Pro threaded shocks.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWT5&P=7

Dave.

[fezzy]

There are no 'threaded' H7 Shock Bodies that I am aware of however you can purchase other manufactuers of shocks that come with threaded bodies. Also yes, The Front shocks are identicle to the rears on the Dom, They are 4 1/4" long and off the rear of a H7 :cool:

[twisted]

you can go to unlimited engenering site and get the ofna super shocks,they are threaded.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks for the help.. here is another question.. where can i find the hex adaper, so i can use the Tmaxx wheels on my dominator?? how much are they??

[twisted]

ummm new era i think makes some and ss rc. if your just wanting the wheels to run maxx tires you dont need to by the wheels,maxx style tires will fit on the dominator rims. ;)

[dgrobe2112]

The reason i ask, is cuz i heard that there are