Ofna Monster Dominator

[Coconut]

If your looking for Ti center drive shafts then Unlimited engineering makes them. Don't know if nayone makes Ti CVd tho.

[anothermbdusted]

what drive shafts do you want? the center ones you can find on unlimited enginerings site and as for dog bones that go between the tranny and the wheel no one makes them but you can goto rc alloys and he will custom make you dog bones made of 7075 aluminum or steel.....hope this helps

[jdavid2002]

Hey guys, I was racing last Friday and I was talking to a guy that said that you can get a center diff for the Dominator. He said that the diff for front or back should work in the place of the slipper. You just have to change out the gears. I think he said you have to take planetary gears out of the diff and put in a spider gear. I could be way off, but he said something to that afect. He said that it will keep you from ruining your front and rear gears this way. By the way, he owns a R/C shop in Tyler, Texas. Is this possible? Can you run a front or rear diff as a center diff? If not is there a aftermarket center diff?

I'm new to the Dominator scene, so I'm kind of ignorant on these things. Thanks

[Coconut]

Not sure what he was talking about;but Ofna makes two center diffs for the Dominator;one with straight cut plantary gears and the other with HD bevel spyder gears. As for them saving the front and rear diffs verus the slipper ;I don't think so. Best way to save your front and rear diffs is to shim them well. If you need great strength than this get the CNC diffs.

[jdavid2002]

Coconut, thanks for the advice about the center diff. I also have a question about the slipper setting. What is a "good" setting for the slipper? I want it to slip way before the diffs get toasted. With my track, I need more slip anyway. Are there any standard setup sheets from Ofna on how to set it? Do you guys have any setup tips for the slipper? Thanks for the help.

[twisted]

setting a slipper all depends on the track or surface you are running on.i mainly set the slipper up so it slipps on impact of large jumps and bumps and not too much on the take off.this of course is my expierence with the slipper on the maxx trucks as i do not have a slipper on my dominator.i just shimmed the diffs and havent had a problem.

[jdavid2002]

Twisted, thanks for the info. What do you have your slipper set at on your maxx? 5 turns from flush? 3 turns from flush? 10 turns from fully compressed? 8 turns from fully compressed? I have a RC10 GT with a slipper but it is a totally different set up than the dominator. I just don;t want to roast a diff because of my ignorance. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

[twisted]

on my maxx i had the slipper tightened all the way down and backed off maybey 1/4 turn.just enought to have it slipp on hard landings.
on the dominator i wouldnt worry about the slipper,i would shimm your diffs.with the correct shimming done to the diffs they are very strong.i bash as hard as it gets and my diffs are still good.i bought the truck USED and the diff were slipping when i got them,all i did was took off the bers and shimed them.i bought two brand new diffs thinking that the ones in the truck would not last long but they have almost two gallons of hard use on them.just shimm the diffs with kyosho 8x10 shimms sold through tower and youll be fine.we can walk you through the shimming too.

[Coconut]

If your going to jump then the slipper will help if set right. I really don't know the setting of my slipper;sorry. It's really nice to have as before that people were stripping spurs and breaking diff gears like mad when jumping and landing . Especially if the clutch was engaged from correcting attitude when jumping. Also helps with CVD breakage some in my opinion.

[Philly's Finest]

I was thinking of picking up a sport maxx but have since changed my mind. Instead I'm just gonna go 2wd on the dom. I'm running a 247 so do you think I'm gonna toast the rear diff? Will I be able to pull the front up?

Also will cutting the stinger on a pipe affect it's performance? I'm having lots of trouble with my paris pipe staying on the truck so I've gone back to an old crappy xtm 1-piece pipe and it has a much longer stinger, I guess to deflect the exhaust from the maxx chassis.

[jdavid2002]

Thanks guys, I will double check my diffs to make sure they are shimmed correctly.

[dgrobe2112]

John, do you know how to shim the diff?? Maybe you can check mine.. and show me now to shim them??

[jdavid2002]

Daniel, I think Twisted talked about it on page 28-30 somewhere in there. I will have to re-read it myself.

[Coconut]

If you can find instructions;then go to Maxxtraxx;the Unlimited form and ask for a link to 7.5 diff instructions. Print it out. They explain it as well as anything I've seen.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks for yalls help you guys.. Now, I have run my a few days now, and this is my first big motor.. The motor in the truck is a Ofna Force .25.. now.. is it just me or does everyone have this problem.. i got a lot of oil leacking in the back of the motor where the header attaches to the motor and held on by that spring.. is there something i can do about this..

Other than that.. this truck is a blast.. i have had some little bitty problems.. Like, one of the rear shocks messed up... and i found out why you guys preach red thread lock.. cuz i allready lost one of those 5mmx5mm grub screws in the outdrive of the front diff.. thank god Home Depot has them in stock and .50 cents later.. its fixed.. but other than the oil leak deal.. this truck is bad..

[twisted]

red loctite a most have! lol as for your exauhst leaking try another gasket or put some huigh temp rtv gasket maker around the old one.

[dgrobe2112]

Where can i buy a new exhaust gasket?? or what would i do a search for?? I am thinking of just getting a new exhaust manifold..

thansk

[Philly's Finest]

Buy ofna ones at http://acehardwarehobbies.com They have pretty good prices on ofna stuff

[Coconut]

Also you can drill two small holes above or below the one that are on header ;so as to use two springs. As far as the gasket; different pipes seem to need different ones. As to the paris pipe. You can flair the end od pipe and the header and use a J type coupler that genera; silicone makes. Normally with the AL 650 best performance as per Ron paris means you have to cut the header so that it only has about 1/2 inch past the curved section of header. This requires that you use the j type coupler as it is curved at the header end so that it extends into the curved section. Us etwo tywraps on each side of the coupler. This is the way buggy guys have modified the header with that pipe for years.

[twisted]

well here are some long waited pics of my dom,im still learining how to use the camera so bare with me.

[twisted]

heres another with body off

[toddzilla]

any of you guys done any mods to increase the amount of steering travel you get? i've got a 133 oz servo, so it's not a lack of power, but i seem to lack full-lock steering while i'm racing.. i have to take wide turns and it's killing my lap times..

[Coconut]

Are you sure it's the steering travel and not the set-up. First thing I would try is to use heavier diff lube in front. Then play with raising the rear ride height. Usually the diff lube will do it as you want the rear slightly lower than the front for traction as you come out of corners. A softer spring in front will also work.

[twisted]

you can also use a rear sway bar if the track is smooth enough.

[dgrobe2112]

toddzilla, what radio are you using?? What servo you got?? If you got a radio like a JR XR2 or Airtronics M8, or MX3 or something like that you can adjust the steering endpoint from normal 100% to like 125% on a JR and on my M8 i can adjust all the way to 150%.. that may help.. does your servo travel the full range when you got the truck lifted off the ground?? I know you got a 133oz servo, but i have a HS925MG 105oz servo.. and i get full lock and fast.. my buddy has a servo with 120oz and it dont even move the tires when its on the ground.. so maybe your servo is weak..

tell me what radio and servo you got and we can go from there..

[toddzilla]

it goes full lock when the wheels are up in the air. it's a hobbico cs-70 i believe...

as for a radio.. i'm waiting for a reciever for my lynx so i'm using my TQ-3 p.o.s. as a backup, but it steered the same way when i had my 3pdf, so its not the radio. i took the steering apart today and made sure it wasn't binding up or anything and it seemed ok. i think i may get a better quality servo soon since i'm getting in to racing it more. i'll probably get a JR, hitec seems to be kind of crappy IMO.

thanks for the advice.

[twisted]

i have a hobbico cs 70 all metal gear high torque servo and it works nice.i cant believe how well it works for the money it cost.

[maxkiller]

I am looking at this proline conversion kit from ace to run the wide maxx suspension on my Dom. Anybody here run this? How do you like it? The kit from Ace says it is set up to run single shocks, what else do I need to run duals?
Thanks

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=88_123_216&products_id=4060&osCsid=bd850311b54a9afe7756c08e664ea1cd

[twisted]

i have the proline bulks with rpm wide maxx arms on mine and i love it.i dont know how ace offers the kit but you should be able to bolt up dual shocks with no mods.

[Coconut]

Ace uses the mugen buggy knuckles that allow larger bearings. But it uses the MIP 8mm axles and the stock dDom wheels which make it way too wide in MHO. I was thinking of using the mugen knuckles with 16mmX6mm bearings but strobe on Maxxtraxx tried it and said that it didn't work out for him very well. Forget what it problem was. He and others also advised that the pro-line bulkhead were off were on the spacing of the holes that mount to the chassis. I just decided that overall the cost verus the advanyage was not right for me. I decided to just save the money for the MGT which should be a good bash truck.

[mercenario27]

is anyone using universals or cvds in replace of the dogbones in the center drivetrain??

[twisted]

coco,i had the same problem with the proline bulks not lining up with the holes in the chassis.
merc im just using the stock d bones in the center.

[maxkiller]

Thanks for the replies. So the ACE kit seems stronger but the width part is a drawback... something to consider.
With the standard proline kit will I need to run tmaxx wheels? I have the Unlimited Engineering aluminum wheels and it would be a shame to not be able to use them.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i finally raced the truck.. had some probs.. it has a Ofna .25 motor.. and i had it way to rich.. im talkin so rich when i was starting it.. gas would come out the exhaust and puddle on the ground.. but i think i got it.. missed the first 2 heats.. got in the 3rd heat.. muffler came off and then got 3rd in the main.. so it was all in all a ok night.. frustrating but ok..

here is a pic for your enjoyment..

[twisted]

nice pic dgrobe and third is not too shabby for the first night out. every new truck is gonna have some bugs to work out its just how it is.
now today i went bashing for a bit and i put some savage rims on my dom and im here to say they suck.ive heard of the savage guys rounding out the hex but thought this was do to the nuts loosening on the axle.well i didnt strip out the hex but instead pulled the the nut while still on axle through the rim.:confused:

[Mook9304]

Does any body know how fast is the dominator with a two speed ?

[dgrobe2112]

Mook.. to find how fast a truck is.. it all depends on the gears you are running and also, your motor, and your fuel mixture.. you can lean your truck, for higher top end, and you can rich your truck for better reliability.. of course slower.. so there is really no way to say excatly how fast it would be.. what motor your useing depends as well.. if your using the .21 4 port motor.. will not be as fast as the truck with the 8 port 21 in it.. my truck has the Ofna .25 in it..

also.. i dont see a need for a 2 speed tranny.. Tmaxx's and Savages have them stock.. but for race applications.. i dont think you will need all that power and speed.. especially in offroad..

[Mook9304]

I have a .21 paris picco pro engine and 5-13-03 my two speed is coming by ups . I wanna make my dominator in to a land missle to race my brother's mad force and I think I'll kick his butt.

[Coconut]

If your going to run the two speed make sure that you put the HPI roller bearings in it for better support. If you will look back some;either here or on MP forum their is a post I believe Fezzy reposted on how to make the two speed reliable by using the roller bearings.

[jdavid2002]

Okay guys, you may have already talked about this, but it's really hard to read through over 30 pages...Does anybody know where to get the wheel adapters for the dominator that will fit Tmaxx wheels or any other wheels? Again, I apologize if this has already been discussed. Thank allot.

[mercenario27]

http://www.ssrcracing.com/cap_064TMAXHUBS.jpg

SS R/C Racing (http://http://www.ssrcracing.com/Ofna.htm)

8mm T-MAXX Hub Adapters
CNC MACHINED 7075-T6 ALUMINUM

Run T-Maxx Rims on Your MP/Dom

Part #8014 $25.00 Set of 4
Temporarily out of stock


I can sell the pair I have, just sold all my Tmaxx rims and tires
$20 shipped and they are yours

[dgrobe2112]

Hmm.. lets see.. 25 bux for 4 of them.. not bad.. how do they work?? do you gotta take off your current 17mm, or do these fit over the ones there?? also, how are you supposed to tighten the wheel on??

20 bux for 2?? Thats kinda high mercenario??

[jdavid2002]

mercenario...thanks for the info, I emailed them about hpw long it will take to get some in. Do you know how they are installed or what other hardware is needed?

[mercenario27]

I didn't mean a pair, I meant a set(4). Sorry for the mistake.

They install the same as the stock hubs. It has a 5mm bolt that holds the rim on.

[jdavid2002]

Mercinario, you got PM and mail

[mercenario27]

Anyone have any idea what the Pirate MT sport is? Is it a dominator with MP tires??

[mercenario27]

I pick up a extra 2 speed from a friend. He got every frustrated with it. He striped 2 of the smaller spurs, one plastic and one steel. Mike didn't realize that the new rear brake was hanging up. At first Mike thought his Picco 01 was to powerfull for the 2 speed spurs then he purchased the steel spurs and it did the same thing again. After he reinstalled the center spool then he noticed that the brake was messed up.

I would like to trade it for a center diff for the Dom/MP I will post pictures if anyone is interested.

email me mercenario27@hotmail.com

[maxkiller]

Well, I finally got my Mugen shocks installed and took the truck out today for some fun at the track... now this is on a converted MP, so I was running the stock MP shocks, not the Dom shocks, but WOW!!! My truck handles sooo much better!:D I don't know how the Dom shocks are but the Mugens are sweet... thanks for the tip!


Next thing I need is a good pipe... I am running a Collari Pico with some cheapo Dymanite pipe for now and I think the thing is choked up a bit. Any sugestions? Are any of the Ofna pipes good or should I get one of the RB pipes?
Thanks,

[Mook9304]

I put a two speed in my diminator and my truck does at least 40 mhp with a 11/15 clutch bell.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, the dominator is a blast.. handles great and fast..

Teh 1/8th scale buggies are running 16 laps.. and i am running 16 laps with my Dominator.. its fun.. still broke in the main again.. but.. it was just the exhaust coming off.. oh well that was my fault anyway.. i forgot to tighten the screw underneath the steering linkage.. before the main after i fixed my clutchbell..

Well, check out the pic..

[jdavid2002]

Good job Daniel! Kickin some Rix Gear TMAXX tail! LOL:D

[dgrobe2112]

Is Tom's Tmaxx a rix gear?? But other than that.. not much turnout for monster truck.. we had 5 trucks only.. I am gonna race in Killeen this weekend i think..

[jdavid2002]

No Tom's isn't a Rix Gear Tmaxx. But you still kicked some booty!

[jdavid2002]

Originally posted by mercenario27
http://www.ssrcracing.com/cap_064TMAXHUBS.jpg

SS R/C Racing (http://http://www.ssrcracing.com/Ofna.htm)

8mm T-MAXX Hub Adapters
CNC MACHINED 7075-T6 ALUMINUM

Run T-Maxx Rims on Your MP/Dom

Part #8014 $25.00 Set of 4
Temporarily out of stock


I can sell the pair I have, just sold all my Tmaxx rims and tires
$20 shipped and they are yours

Mercinario! I am sending your money via PayPal! Let me know when you ship them. Thanks.

[mercenario27]

ok

[ritchies rc10gt]

i havent posted here in this thread for awhile.

has this happened to anybody?i put my truck on the ground and hit the gas and broke the first gear off the clutchbell!!

[JTS]

Yup had the same exact thing happen about two weeks ago. I replaced a worn out set that worked fine for a long time and the new one broke in about five minutes. The LHS told me that OFNA had a recall on all of them but of course I found another hobby shop that had one and I guess I figured out why they were recalled.!
JTS

[Philly's Finest]

Hey guys it's been a while since I checked in here. Been racing at the lhs last few weeks and boy oh boy is it a small track. It's a parking lot course with a maybe 70 ft straight. It's really too small for a dom but I just go for fun since it's the only organized racing in my area.

I murder everything else on the track which really isn't that fair considering the smallness of the track. I got in a bit of a tangle up and wound up snaping the cva right at the base of the ball. Seemed like an odd place to break and just last race my buddy with a dom did the same thing only he had radio interference and was going wot into a parked car.

So I have been running 2wd and I actually like it. Well it's great for driving on a paved surface and the truck seems way more responsive and also breaks better. I think I'll leave 2wd until I find a real track.:p

[LosiRacer911]

okay guys, i just bought a dominator off of ebay about 2 weeks ago. so far, the truck kicks some Tmaxx *****! The first time i raced i at my local r/c track....i finished 4th place a main. ain't bad for a stock truck. i have a load of questions, and i hope someone will help me! how do you shim the diffs? what size shims do i use?
what weight oil should i run? what is some good websites i can find dominator hop-ups on? what stock parts should i upgrade?

i put some kanai 2 shock limiters in the front shocks for my dominator. so far, i am running 3000 wt. front and rear. i have no clue how to shim the diffs, and was wondering does it help anything? i put fuel tubing between the outdrive and the dogbone in the rear, and i was also wondering if they have a special shim for that? i put hose clamps on my exhaust, because it kept on coming off. i will soon get a dynamite inline 1 piece exhaust. is there a solution to the outdrive problem? a guy at my local track said to red loctite it. it works....sometimes. basically it is box stock other than the slight changes.

thanks for everyones advice and input!!

[dgrobe2112]

As far as the outdrive problems.. i loctited mine and have had no problems at all.. you could flare your exhaust manifold and exhaust to fix the falling off problem.. Other than that.. these other guys will have to help you with diff shimming.. cuz i would like to know that too..

[mercenario27]

You have alot of play with your rear center dogbone? try replacing it or use the drive cups from the Ultra series buggy
ofna part #30080
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/ofnc3008.jpg

Try this for shimming the Diff
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/ofnc1939.jpg
Ofna Part #18939

DO NOT USE RED THREAD LOCK on the drive cips. You would have to heat up the cup with a thorch to get it off. If you use Blue Thread Lock, line up the grub screw with the flat spot on the axle and also let it dry over night you shouldn't have any problems with the drive cups coming loose.

Check out my Clubs website for Dominator Tips.
Northeast Nitro (http://www.northeastnitro.com/techtip.htm)

Try these Header/Pipes
http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-10056.jpg
1/8 Tuned, OFNA 086
Polished, OffRoad
Part#: 10056

http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-51910.jpg
1/8 Tuned, OFNA/Picco.21
OffRoad, Inline Pipe/Manifold
Part#: 51910

http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-10057.jpg
1/8 Tuned,
OffRoad
Part#: 10057

http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-10077.jpg
1/8 One Piece Set,
OffRoad
Part#: 10077

I run this type of coupler on my header and it seems to do the trick. I like to be able to switch my pipes depending on where I run.
http://www.ofna.com/images/pipe-10184.jpg
1/8 & 1/10 Silicone Joint Tube
SPL, Blue
Part#: 10184

[show2ime]

anyone know who makes other maxx wheel adapters besides ssrc? They r out of stock and I need some...

[Coconut]

I Alaways use red locktite on drive grub screws. Just heat the screw with the tip of a soldiering iron and it comes out easy.There are two strengths of red locktite;use the weaker. I've found blue will come loose even if dried for 24 hrs. I believe that OFNA makes maxx wheel adapters for the Dom/MP. As far as shims for the diff;Kyosho part #96644;8X10mm shims are the correct size. Three different thickness of ten each. They also work for shimming excessive play from CVD's and the tranny shaft. The best instructions on shimming diffs I have seen are the Unlimited Engineering 7.5 instructions. You might check their site at www.unlimitedengineering.com for instructions link;where you can print a copy;very detailed.

[mercenario27]

Email Steve (ssrc15@aol.com) from SS R/C Racing (http://www.ssrcracing.com) He might have them in stock now or he could make a pair real quick for you

[mercenario27]

I have a 2 speed I would like to trade for a center diff if anyone would be interested

[Philly's Finest]

Thought I'd throw up a pic of my truck

http://www.vicecity.us/dom4.jpg

http://www.vicecity.us/dom1.jpg

[Mook9304]

I have a diff for a trade please reply if still wanna trade.

[Clan O'Riley]

hey what kind of diff is it?

[mercenario27]

I'll take it, if its the optional center diff and not the stock spool

[LosiRacer911]

Well, after shimming my diffs, I headed out to race at a track in Kennesaw, GA. It was my first time there, and when I pulled up to the parking lot, it looked like a junkyard. I walked around to the offroad track, and I looked at it with shock. The track only had 6 jumps, 3 being a triple, and 2 being a double. NO FUN! I was ready to race....I guess. So anyways, in the first heat, off of the triple, I heard a grinding noise. I was going around a corner to the straight, and I noticed...I ONLY HAD FRONT WHEEL DRIVE! After the race, I looked at my truck. The rear diff was shot. When I was practicing, I broke both dogbones, and I bought a pair of CVDs for the rear from my friend. I guess it was a waste of money. Anyways, I NEED A REAR CNC DIFF, REAR SABILIZER SET(Lost one of the connectors to it that holds it to the rear arm), AND A STEERING BELLCRANK SCREW(The one that holds that little rod to the left bellcrank). If anyone has any of this, please email me at paintballer6812@aol.com. We can work out something.

[dgrobe2112]

Dang losi, sounds like a rough first time out.. that sux.. i dont know what happened to the diff.. for it to be like that.. did you shim it correctly?? i havent touched my diffs at all.. well.. sorry to hear you had a rough time..

[toddzilla]

i recently had some problems with my dom after about 5 gallons of hard use i began racing it, i did ok for a while but began to have lots of problems with my diffs, the rear in particular. i shimmed , reshimmed and loc-tited till i was blue in the face. then one evening while i was taking it all apart yet again, i decided to use the casing from the spare diff that i got on ebay. it completely solved the problems i was having with the rear gear mesh. some of you might consider replacing your gear cases if your truck has seen alot of use/abuse like mine has.

i've also gone through 2 steel spur gears in the past 3 weeks, so i've bought the rolling chassis from stormerhobbies. i think maybe it's time to retire my truck to parts status and start over. i'll be back racing soon with a near-new RB S7 in place of the 8-Port hyper.

anyway i just thought i'd let you guys know about those gear cases being a weak point if your truck has seen alot of use.

http://www.ericallenogle.com/todd/truckjump.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

Dang nice pic man.. bout how high off the ground are you there?? Looks like 8-10 feet.. is there a landing ramp?? is that just bashing or racing?? i dont think you be racing with that kind of air..

[LosiRacer911]

i did shim my diffs correctly. i used the 7.5 instructions from unlimited engineering.

after taking my truck apart, i opened up the rear gearbox and found a surprise. the rear diff fell apart in my hand in about 50 pieces. the case is gone, due to a hole in the side of it. i have no clue how it happened. it just did.

anyone want to sell some diffs, dogbones, sway bar set, or bellcrank set?

email: paintballer6812@aol.com

[dgrobe2112]

Ebay has alot of parts on there for really cheap.. even new metal case diffs also.. check there..

[toddzilla]

that pic was taken after a day of racing, we had a long jump contest at the end of the mains. i won the gas class with a 50 footer. we jumped at the end of the straightaway, but the kicker was that the landing area was down a pretty good sized hill so i'd say my actual landing was from at least 25-30 feet in the air, of course i did it twice and no breakage :p


one thing i have noticed also with trucks that have seen lots of wear is the through bolts that hold the ring gear to the diff tend to get worn on the ends and don't hold well. i bought longer than needed bolts and cut em off with a dremel tool after threading them through, then dried them thoroughly with starting fluid to prevent any grease from getting on the threads, and red loctited them. they haven't given me any grief since.

[nad138]

How's it going guys....

I'm really starting to love my Dom...raced last weekend with it and ended up 3rd in the quals but had to retire in the main as one of the screws holding the main gear of my rear diff came loose and started slipping (diffs are shimmed but still slipped). Anyway, I'm thinking of upgrading to CNC and send in my receipts to ofna for my center diff (I've converted it to maxx suspension).

are there any aftermarket skidplates and bumpers for the dom (with the proline conversion) out there ? Appreciate the reply.

Thanks,
nad

[Philly's Finest]

I don't know how they'll go with the maxx kit but Grumpy Tom makes some pretty strong skids. There is a link to the site in this thread somewhere.

[nitroice0069]

Hi, I have a 9.5 with a megatech 7 port i was wondering how it would run if i put some dominator wheels and tires on it. Would it handel just as good as the dominator or would it not have the correct suspension geometry. I know the megatech will be able to pull it around because it has tons of torque. So thats not a problem but would i need to change the geaing or anything.
Please tell me anything i should know


Thanks
James

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, your buggy.. is a 9.5.. i am sure you can put dominator wheels on it.. however.. the suspension geometry is just like you said.. it will not handle that great.. also i think the Dominator has longer arms than a buggy does.. Now there are some truggy conversions out there.. you can look around.. but a Dominator has a taller shock tower.. for taller shocks.. in the front.. your buggy has the same size shocks in the rear as a dominator does..

[Coconut]

The main problem when converting a buggy to a MT is in gearing. Hard to find a spur that will give good lowend because of the increase of tire diameter and effect on gearing. Use to be a guy that converted his 9.5 to a MT and spent alot of time on it. He never got it to perform well enough with gearing and the shorter front shock with stock tower and got a DEominator which he advised was much better. These conversions can get expensive real quick;so you choice .

[GTX]

I bought those SSRC Adaptors a long time ago, and when I ordered my roller from Stormer and had it all built, the adaptors had too small of holes! They won't fit on the axles. What's up with this? Anyone else have this problem???

[Kenny123]

There are 2 types of Adaptors there is 6mm and 8mm.

[GTX]

Oh, then there is my problem. They are still new, so I guess I can send them in and get the other size. Anyone know why their site is down?

[dgrobe2112]

Guys.. first off, i wanna say i have raced my dominator alot.. and i finally decided that for me to get my truck to handle and perform better.. i purchased the Proline suspension conversion.. now first off i wanna know if any of you have done it, what problems did you run into.. and how is yours holding up??

Here is what i have found out.. the kit is very nice.. pretty easy to put together.. however.. the hinge pins.. i purchased some.. that have some threads on one end.. dont get those.. cuz on the lower arm.. they wont thread into the aluminum bulks.. there are some set screws in the bulkhead that can tighten the hingepins.. on the upper arm, however, they will thread into that.. Now, should i purchase some different hingepins???

Also, i got some XTM universal CVD's for the wide max.. cuz they are 25 bux a pair, not 50 bux like the Proline ones are.. In the XTM kit, they provide you a extra pair of outdrives.. however, they do not provide you with set screws.. you must purchase the set screws seperatly.. cuz the dominator screws are too big.. you must go to Home Depot and get the 4mmx5mm set screws..

I just pick up those set screws today.. and havent put then in yet.. will do those tonight.. and get back to you on how they work..

Looks like the kit will do great..

[GTX]

Those XTM CVD's will only take so much. Even the Pro-Line CVD's will give out eventually. What kind of engine are you running?

When I do my Maxx suspension conversion, I am going to use the SuperMaxx Steel CVD's, Widetrac suspension (which has titanium turnbuckles and titanium hinge pins), and steel pillow balls for the ultimate setup with the lowest cost.

I have yet to break an arm on the two T-Maxxes and the Dom I have owned. I also never broke an arm on any of the three RC10GT's, 2 GTX's, and 1 XXXNT. All the racers say that if you don't break arms, you are a good driver. If you do....heh.

[Philly's Finest]

Ofna Part # 81175

Some sites say they allow tmaxxs to run ofna wheels. Other sites say they allow you to run mp/doms with maxx wheels. But all the sites have the same part number.

So which one is it? Maxx -> Ofna or Ofna -> Maxx

The ss rc ones are out of stock & have been for some time and I can't find any on new era.

[GTX]

If I'm not mistaken, it's the Ofna wheels to the T-Maxx. The blue ones right? What they do is they slide off the plastic hex of the Maxx to leave the axle pin there and then you slide the blue hexes on for the 17mm wheels.

[Philly's Finest]

So does that mean they could be interchanged? I don't understand how four different internet hobby stores could carry these, with 2 stating they are for one way and 2 for the other.:confused:

[GTX]

Those wheel hubs only fit the T-Maxx. They allow the Maxx trucks to accept the huge Ofna wheels. That's it. You need SSRC adaptors to use T-Maxx wheels.

[Clan O'Riley]

here is a quick question b4 i sell my dominator. it may be its last hope. if i buy the cnc rear diff and a center diff for it will that solve my problem of my drive shafts bending and breaking? when i jump it i only go about 1.5 feet in the air and that is by no means high. i have never jumped it higher than that and i seem to break drive shafts al of the time. please help and give as much info as possissble as soon as possible b4 i sell it!:confused:

[dgrobe2112]

Clan, sorry man, i dont know why you are breakin or bending your dogbones.. that does happen.. but it sounds in your case that is happens all the time.. do you have a center slipper?? if so, dont tighten the slipper all the way down.. make sure you got some slip..

GTX, yeah, i am sure that the CVD's will break sooner or later.. where are you getting the Supermaxx cvd's?? i would like to get some of those.. cuz i heard they are longer than the proline, or the MIP..

so, i raced the truck this past weekend, and had problems with the suspension travel.. too much travel as a matter of fact.. at first i thought it was too much up travel.. cuz when i landed the jumps.. my cvd, would pop out.. so i limited the travel a little.. and it happened in the air the next time.. so i tried that.. and it still didnt work.. so i got some ideas on what i wanna do next..

GTX, tell ,me where you get the supermaxx cvd's..

Thanks

[Clan O'Riley]

i have a center slipper and it is as loose as it goes.

[dgrobe2112]

Clan, without actually being there to see what is happening.. there is nothing i can say.. i dont know what could be wrong.. i have never had a problem.. do you think that when you land your jumps.. even thought they are only 1 foot in the air that the shafts are being pushed into the diff.. by the wheels going up when you land.. this will push the shafts in toward the diff.. and if it hits the diff.. then they could bend.. but i think that is a long shot

[Clan O'Riley]

i just checked the shafts and they dont even come close to touching the diff. if i put a center diff instead of the slipper would that work? would it take some of the strain off of the rear?

[dgrobe2112]

basically what will happen with a center diff, is.. the same as your wheel diffs.. like when you go around a turn, the inside tires dont need to turn as fast as the outer tires.. if you put in a center diff, the diff will give power to the front or rear as needed.. that will not mean it will slow the truck.. or anything like that.. and therefore i dont beleive it will fix the problem with the truck bending or breakin shafts.. now.. are you breakin shafts from center to diff or from diff to wheels?? if your breakin the center to diffs.. then maybe it will work.. but if your breakin the outer ones from diff to wheels, you may think about tryin to reshim your diff.. and using different weight oil or grease in the diff

[Clan O'Riley]

i am breaking the shafts from the diff to the wheels. i dont have any oil in the diffs now. what will happen if i put oil in the diffs? right now it just has grease on the little gears.

[dgrobe2112]

running oil will increase the life of the diff, of course and by having oil in there.. it will slow down the diff a little, some guys run thicker oil in different diffs to add more power to one set of wheels.. you know.. more restriction by thicker oil will run the diff slower.. so like some guys want more power to the rear.. so they run a thicker oil in front than rear.. you can read back a few pages to see what guys run..

also.. go to www.ofna.com and click on the message board link on the bottom right of the screen.. there is a dominator section there.. that the guys talked about it too..

But if your running grease.. that might be better.. i dont know..

[Philly's Finest]

Clan do you have the long drive cups?

Are you breaking the rear set or the front more?

I have cvd's on all four corners & the extended drive cups in the rear. I have never had the problem of the cvd's coming out in the front but I run with enough camber to keep them in.

I also prefer the grease over the oil for the diffs but this choice is purely preference. Just as long as the diffs are lubed some how.

Also you might want to take your time and have a good read through this thread. There are alot of good set up tips from guys who have since sold their trucks and don't visit here often. It is a long read but it can save you alot of hassel.

[Clan O'Riley]

my driveshafts dont pop out they just snap.

[Coconut]

It's been my experience that with the short arms of the MP/Dom. you need to limit suspension extension to avoid bind that breaks CVD. There are other things such as the steering limters on the knuckles being bent and allowing the steering to cause binding. I,ve seen some that have extreme drive shaft angles to get more ride height. To me getting more ride height is the only reason for going to the Maxx suspension with all the weight added.

[GTX]

Will a Hyper 7 diff work in a Dominator/MP diff case? I am blowing ring gears with my WS7 and I am wondering if it will fit.

The HD gears on the optional diff for the MP uses four screws on the inside of the ring gear. The only ring gear that has four inside holes is the ring gear for the Hyper 7, so it must be true.

Can anyone verify this?

[slammed87]

hey, i got a dominato with a hyper 8 port. i was running it and the high spped needle(the part that u trun with a screw driver untwisted it selfe ?

what should i do?

[dgrobe2112]

First off.. did you buy the motor used?? either way, if you did or not.. you should check the seal on it.. you should prolly replace that.. if you got the motor new.. i would call ofna and let them know..

[Philly's Finest]

Hey guys I've put together my own dom website. I got most of the tips and info from here. It will be a good site for new dom guys. It combines alot of the info in this and the MP thread.

So check it out and if you think there is something important that should be up there let me know.

http://www.vicecity.us/dominator/

[jdavid2002]

Philly, NICE website!

I have a question for all you DOM guys. Friday while racing, I kept losing my front driveshaft grub screw (not my outdrives). Now I know that I need to run red locktite in my grub screws, but I didn't have any at the time. I did use blue, but no good. Now, I run with my front swaybar off and my rear one on. I have had no problems with my rear driveshaft or outdrive screws coming loose. I had a guy tell me that if I put my front swaybar back on, that that would help diminsh allot of the front driveline vibration and may keep my screw from backing out so much. What do you guys do with your swaybars? Do you have them in front and back or not at all? Does it help traction or diminish it? Thanks for any help...

[dgrobe2112]

Philly, nice website.. however, you need a contact link.. on how to contact you.. i got some good pics of my dominator in action.. i thought you may want to put on the site..

Also.. where you have the proline list of parts.. i would add on there to buy the longer drive cups.. ofna part number 30080, or 30082 and the whole thing cost me less than 300 bux.. i think it was around 350 if that..

[MMTM]

Hey Philly, I also have some more pics of my truck (when it was actually still an MP that you can use. Here is the link. http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/sabr/

oh, and mine cost, um....... more than $350. :rolleyes:

I plead the 5th

[speedydave]

Hi guys. I don't have a dominator but I'd think this would be a good place to ask this. I'm thinking about(and probably will) converting my Mugen XR Works to a truck using the JT Racing conversion. The engine that was in my XR is now in my new MBX5, so I'm in the market for a new engine, solely for monster truck duty. Since I'll be racing the unlimited class, there pretty much are no rules. Do any of you have an engine recommendation? I definitely don't want the XTM .247, and I'm pretty sure not the Sirio .27 either. I'd like a nice, torquey, pretty fast engine $200 or under, pullstart or non. I've been thinking about either the Ofna/Picco or Orion Wasp .26, or an Ofna 8 port, or 8 port race. Do any of you have any experience with these engines, or any other engine you'd recommend, in a truck(I'd assume the dominator)? Thanks.

[jdavid2002]

Originally posted by jdavid2002
Philly, NICE website!

I have a question for all you DOM guys. Friday while racing, I kept losing my front driveshaft grub screw (not my outdrives). Now I know that I need to run red locktite in my grub screws, but I didn't have any at the time. I did use blue, but no good. Now, I run with my front swaybar off and my rear one on. I have had no problems with my rear driveshaft or outdrive screws coming loose. I had a guy tell me that if I put my front swaybar back on, that that would help diminsh allot of the front driveline vibration and may keep my screw from backing out so much. What do you guys do with your swaybars? Do you have them in front and back or not at all? Does it help traction or diminish it? Thanks for any help...

Got any advice for my problem guys?

[dgrobe2112]

I do.. I do.. :D John.. first off.. you cant have your truck put up for weeks, or months.. and take it off the shelf, or out of your garage.. the day of the races.. start it up and expect it to be perfect.. ;)

I think.. you should take your diffs off the chassis.. pull the 3 grub screws per diff, meaning pull 6 of them.. put locktite on them.. and put it all back together.. let the locktite cure overnight.. i use blue on mine and have no problems.. Red would be great.. but i dont got red.. if you got red.. thats cool..;)

but other than that.. it takes setup time.. and you seen me.. i am workin on mine the day after the races.. cleaning.. lookin over.. and stuff like that.. if its a bad problem.. it may take me all week to get it done.. like i havent put the clutch and flywheel on my other motor yet.. should have done it allready.. but i will do that tonight..

Tim Smiley was right.. after sitting around for a while.. stuff will not be right.. its just like those RTR cars.. you buy one and take it out of the box.. sure its RTR.. but you still gotta give it a once over.. check everything out and all.. Same deal..:D

[jdavid2002]

Good point Daniel. But after I get all that done and checked, what if the srew still comes loose, even after curing time and putting a new screw in? That's my dilema. If everytime I go to race and I have to deal with a grub screw coming loose every race, then it is useless to race until my problem is solved. That's what I am looking for. I was just wondering if anybody on here has had that problem and what they did to fix it.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, makes sense.. you could put some shrink wrap on there after you tighten the grub screws.. kinda like on the end of a CVD..

[MMTM]

If you use red loctite, install the grub screws, let it cure, and you still have trouble with the screws backing out? I say give up and start racing micros. Red loctite generally won't even come loose when you try to take the screw out. I have always had to heat screws installed w/ red to melt the loctite before removal.

[Philly's Finest]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I updated the contact link. If you have pics send em to me I'd love to put them up. The site contact link is method@vicecity.us

As far as the sway bars go most of the time I run w/o the front. I am back to running 2wd again and so I am running the front sway now. It depends on the track or surface conditions your running on and what gives you better response.

[NitroCrackers]

hence the name

[Super<S>Man]

Hey all Im having a lot of trouble getting the stock pipe to stay on. No matter how hard I clamp down the zup ties it managaes to wiggle lose. So im looking at one piece pipes to buy and am looking for suggestions. Only requirement is that it needs to be under 704. http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_21&products_id=2232&osCsid=ad176510542d88342256120d4daab141 that is the pipe i am currently considering.

[GTX]

Get the Ofna 063 pipe. It's very nice and it has the same performance as the RB 063...

I use an AL650 pipe with a shortened Ofna header. I also use a very long piece of GS silicone coupler. It's the coupler that you cut to length yourself, and it works great. Make sure to double zip tie the couplers. It's the only way to get good security. I have yet to have my coupler come off since I did this.

[Super<S>Man]

Hey thanks man. Tomorrow im going to this big dirt area and bringing my jump with me and a vid camera. With luck ill have some vids up by the end of the week. BTW while waiting for my order i made a nice lip on the pipe so it wont fall off. Took some work because the metal was freakin thick but I did it... (only took pliers and a hammer.... lol)
peace

[Coconut]

Alot of guys use the AL-650;which as recommended by Ron Paris performs best with a very short header. Most I've seen picked-up the buggies guys use of a J-type coupler that allows it to follow the header curve. With the right header the pipe is also tucked-incloser to the chassis for better pipe protection.

[GTX]

Yeah, if your gas tank isn't in the way, lol...

[Super<S>Man]

Damn I got the video edited and everything but its 80megs and no one wants to host it.... anybody wanna host it??????

[GTX]

That's a bbbiiiiigggg vid. See if ******.net can host it. If not, go to www.rcrevolution.com and go to the "Bashers Haven". That's the lounge. There are a few guys in there that should be able to host it for a while...

[toddzilla]

hey guys, i've been pretty busy with racing lately and haven't checked in here in a while.. i've rebuilt my truck using that rolling chassis that stormer hobbies sells and it's running better than ever.. a little trick i've learned to help with an underpowered engine is to run the MP spur gear with the dom tires.. it's perfect for racing since i don't wind out completely by the end of the straight and it gives me a ton of low end out of the mediocre 8-port engine.. it seems to be holding up quite well, i toasted two steel spurs earlier in the year and decided not to buy another one because they are so overpriced. i've run at least a gallon through my truck with the plastic gear and it looks fine.. this is including a 20 minute main..

anyway.. i'm painting up a new shell in the next few weeks so i'll post a few pics when i get it done..

[GTX]

I got that roller from Stormer too, but I built my Dom with it. I just got a Slipper with the steel spur, but I might take it off and put the plastic spur back on. My track is really small too.


For fun, here are some pics of my Dom. I just got done shimming the diffs. I am using an epoxied-on ring gear in the front, so hopefully it will hold until my extra diff gets here!

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image2/8/25/6/82582506NPopQH_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image6/8/23/8/82582308qZYdwl_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image6/8/25/20/82582520pVDqiC_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image5/8/26/26/82582626ifBsNf_ph.jpg


Buggy Style!


http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image6/8/23/46/82582346qIrvpX_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image1/8/47/13/83884713FKrGjO_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image7/8/48/49/83884849MkjBHp_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image7/8/50/24/83885024QugsOn_ph.jpg

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://community.webshots.com/s/image7/8/50/43/83885043giFAly_ph.jpg



I have a lot more pics, and a lot of them have the MT wheels and tires with the Jeep bod. Go to this link. They are up to 1600 x 1200 in size here, so be prepared! http://community.webshots.com/user/gtxracer

I am going to get this monster on vid, hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. We will see!

[toddzilla]

invest in some H7 shocks all around, and the dom front shock tower, the difference in handling is tremendous!!.. also with the dom front shock tower you wont break front bulkheads due to the hinge pin being captured..

[GTX]

Captured hinge pins? My hinge pins still use the little e clips. Is there some kind of upgrade? I don't have nearly any upgrades on my Dom. I don't feel it needs any. If there are captured pins, I want them!

[Coconut]

I think he is talking about the hingepins going thru the front tower which really helps with bulkhead breakage.

[PCC]

I have fairly new front shock towers (taken off a brand new Dominator) and a complete set of unbuilt new Dominator (Hyper7 rear) shocks if you want to complete the conversion.

[GTX]

Right now, I am not interested. I have too much stuff going on. It's fine right now. I don't mind the smaller shocks and tower..

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by speedydave
Hi guys. I don't have a dominator but I'd think this would be a good place to ask this. I'm thinking about(and probably will) converting my Mugen XR Works to a truck using the JT Racing conversion. The engine that was in my XR is now in my new MBX5, so I'm in the market for a new engine, solely for monster truck duty. Since I'll be racing the unlimited class, there pretty much are no rules. Do any of you have an engine recommendation? I definitely don't want the XTM .247, and I'm pretty sure not the Sirio .27 either. I'd like a nice, torquey, pretty fast engine $200 or under, pullstart or non. I've been thinking about either the Ofna/Picco or Orion Wasp .26, or an Ofna 8 port, or 8 port race. Do any of you have any experience with these engines, or any other engine you'd recommend, in a truck(I'd assume the dominator)? Thanks.


i run the ofna picco 01 in mine,as long as you dont mind breaking stuff its a great engine.i keep breaking the rear dogbones and twisted the center dogbones,broken and stripped the 2 speed clutchbell gears.

[Coconut]

Speedydave: the conversion should make a excellent race truck . I think that alot is going to depend on the gear ratio available;which I haven't seen posted by JT. Just like racing buggies;it probab;y is better to sticj to a engine like the buggies with alot of lowend for the track. Also depends how long the heats are (mileage) and of course what the competition is at the track as to how highend you need to go in engine choice. I picked the VO1B for my Dominator because it has great lowend and great power curve.

[toddzilla]

the most common reason for breaking/bending the rear dogbones is too much suspension "droop" .. make sure you use the inner shock mount on the rear a-arms or it will drop down too low and bind up those rear 'bones. i've run 10+ gallons through mp/dom trucks and have NEVER broken a dogbone..

[GTX]

Hey guys, I don't think it's the droop as much as it is the weakness of the bones. I had a problem with the bones coming out of the cup, so I got the longer cups and the steel driveshafts that are around $15. They all work well, and I haven't broken a driveshaft in a while...

[diamonddawg]

Im selling a some of my SABR parts on ebay...I have the Tall Front tower with Hinge pin holders, the rear tower and the sway bar braces..

Item Number 3142989987

Also have the rear bulks and arms - 3142995194

Slipper - 3142990551

Brand new plyboy 2's - 3142996116

Paris Al650 - 3142992660

[waterboy]

hey guys, just wanted your opinion about this truck. obviously you own one so you must like it. i'm going to purchase a monster truck to race. right now there are tmaxx and savages running at the local track. no restrictions on the monster truck class for racing. what are your experiences racing this truck and what upgrades do i need to race with. if you were to buy a new truck to race with what would it be? thanks!

[Stalker911]

I just bought a Dominator Extreme and I totally LOVE it! Awesome truck IMO. I really don't think you can go wrong with it.

[Philly's Finest]

Waterboy: Upgrades depend apon your track. You may need different tires depending on the surface. You may want to rebuild the shocks to suit your driving style.

I think the most important things to grab for the truck when you get it are diff shims, longer outdrive cups, and maybe another set of cva's for the rear. The truck is stellar and will do very well out of the box but those things I just mentioned can save you $$$ down the road.

[GTX]

The Ofna CVA's are cheap. Get the $15 steel dpgbones instead....

[Coconut]

Personally I haven'yt had a bit of troubles with my CVD's. Dogbones bent and wore drivecups when bashed hard. Be sure and shim the diff's and locktite on screws that attach the diff spur to the difff housing and longer scres that are flush with the other side of spur will save alot of problem and money later. Limiting the extension of the shock will also save the Cvd's from wearing drivecups and save the shafts as well as handling better. Check and locktite all grub screws with red locktite. Don't trust that they wre done at the factory.basically thinking of the Dominator as a kit that came assembled with lost instructions is better IMO.

[toddzilla]

i knew i shouldn't have bragged about never breaking a dogbone, i broke one racing last week lol... jinxed!!

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres what happens when you hit another dominator in the rear at full throttle with the other one stopped.i also somehow cracked the fuel tank.

[ritchies rc10gt]

this is the only damage caused to the truck i hit

[GTX]

Hey guys, I am selling my Dom. It has the WS7, XR2, all the cool stuff. I am pretty much parting it out, but selling the truck as a complete kit. Let me know if you guys are interested in anything!

[waterboy]

what engine are you guys running in your dom? I don't want to spend over $200. I race at my local track, nothing serious so i don't need a really high end engine.

[toddzilla]

i used to use an 8 port hyper, but ofna engines are very hit or miss and you could end up with a really crappy one. i'm selling my buggy and i'll be putting my CMB Raptor in my truck, so it's going to be way over powered.

for 200 i'd get an rb s7, or the RB sport engine for 180.00 RB makes great, reliable and long lasting engines that produce good power.

www.ace-hobbies.com is a good place for engines.

[Information Man]

I am getting a used ( good condition ) DOM in a few weeks, it is 99% stock. what upgrades should I know about when I get it.

I am not talking after market parts, I want to know about changing bushings for bearings and a good solid set-up.

I don't want to spend cash on it right away, I'll need some time to get used to it, but from the retarted 17 page crap-o-la manual I printed off of ofna's site it leaves alot to the imagination, so I thought this would be the place to start..

I can't wait to get it, I love my ofna and hong nor LD3's so this should be a great addition

thanks for your time
:D

[Coconut]

The Dominator comes with BB's in all the important areas. Sabr made towers;ext.chassi and other parts that made the Dom. pretty-well bullet prof;but these unfortunely are no longer available. OFNA makes a CNC steering link when the stock one bends. CVD 's in rear are nice when set-up right.Lunsford TI turnbuckles to adjust suspension great hop-up. CNC knuckles when stock break. really you need to read the past post her and OFNA site to get most of the mods. The diff shimming;red locktiting all grub screws and the bolts that attach the diff spur gear to the diff are a must .Really more important than hop-up for reliable truck. good luck

[Information Man]

Thanks Coconut !!

I have been reading the posts to see what I need to do if anything to make this new ride better, I'll have to wait until I see it to get the full understanding of some of the mods people are doing to make the Dom even better..

thanks again

:D

[dgrobe2112]

Jaime, one mod that alot of people are doing is the Proline conversion kit. It make the dominator handle a ton better. I did that on my dominator, which, i was allready beating the Savages and Tmaxx's, but the main reason for me doing it was because the Hobby shop stocks Tmaxx arms, and knuckles, and turnbuckles and stuff like that, and if i broke a Dominator stock arm, then i was out of luck..

So you may look into that.. and if you do that conversion, Ofna will send you a free center diff, and rear brake conversion.

But, you will be plenty happy with the truck, i know i have been happy with mine..

Just a comparison, alot of Tmaxx owners, are taking their Tmaxx's, and doing a .21 conversion.. like a JT hybrid, or something like that.. and dumping all kinds of money into it.. at least 1000 dollars after you got it all done.. when Ofna came out with the dominator, .21 allready.. flat chassis.. single speed..

[Information Man]

I totally agree, I want torque not break neck speed, any MT at 40-50 MPH is almost impossible to control, I have 1/10 onroad for speed and I want a MT for fun and for torque, jumps, and all the usual stuff. I love buggies and love MT's so the Dominator fit my bill..

:D

[ritchies rc10gt]

will a center dif out of an ofna buggy fit in the dom?i think i need one,when i jump my truck i can here some crunching noises and thats usually when it twists or breaks a dogbone or strips the spurs and clutchbell gears.i took the 2 speed out of mine and put the single speed back in it but i somehow warped the spur gear.what i think is happening that requires a center dif is when it lands from a jum one set of wheels hits the ground,then they suddenly stop real quick while the other wheels are still spinning.that quick stop and go is taking all the force of the stillspinning wheels and putting it into the dogbones and spurs,when that happens something has to give and it will strip/break gears or twist or break dogbones.

does this make any sense to anybody but me?

[Information Man]

Ofna's Site (http://www.ofna.com/dom_opt.html)

Ace Hardware (http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=88_123&osCsid=a91d9ed2e542bf8812229d9510dbf658)

go to the ace hardware site, click on OFNA ( in the center )
and you'll see a center diff there.

Sorry I don't know if the buggy diff will fit, but thought I would try to help out.

:D

[waterboy]

i was out at the track today on the 3rd run of my new truck and i lost front wheel drive. it spins and everything seems to be there. it's got to be something when the brake and dogbone come to gether. the spur gear is really tight now. any suggestions??

[Coconut]

Check to see if one of the grub screws didn't loosen or come out in the front portion of drivetrain. If you did not red locktite and wait 24hrs to dry that's a good bet.

[dgrobe2112]

definitly, check the grub screws in the front diff.. the out drives will come loose.. there is one in the middle going to the center slipper, then there is one on each side going to each wheel.. definitly tighten those.. and you might as well check the rest of them as well..

When you tighten the grub screw.. you will want to make sure you hit the flat side of the diff.. if you pull the drive cup off.. you will notice that the axel sticking out looks like a D.. you will want the screw to tighten on this side ------->D

[waterboy]

that was it, the grub screw...thanks. i did locktight the others before but must have overlooked that one.

[offroadcrazy01]

have any of you used the IMEX rims on your dom? i was looking at getting a set for my DOM and wanted to know if they where any good ($30 for a set of 4) i would get the MT3's but the last set i had just fell the hell apart, i heard about boiling them but why take the risk if the IMEX will work better.

[Coconut]

Originally posted by waterboy
that was it, the grub screw...thanks. i did locktight the others before but must have overlooked that one.

That's one of the weak area of the Dom. All the drivecups are secured by grub screws rather than a pin on the inside the the diff like most buggies. The best thing is to clean the screw and threaded hole well;then RED locktite the grub screw and let dry 24 hrs. If you need to loosen the screw heat the screw with a soldiering iron and the locktite will loosen. Just be sure and use blue locktite only with aluminum or parts with plastic attached or it will melt tho.

[theShark]

anyone have any problems with the plastic end on the stock shocks? is there an all aluminum cap I can buy to fit it or should I just upgrade the shocks?

[Coconut]

Racers-edge has the Saxton aluminum ends . I think they nake them for both 3mm and 3,5mm shocks. One thing to do with plastic ends is to thread them on well past the thread part of the shaft. I have been using the Hyper 7 stock ends;they are alot better than the 9.5 end that are either over bore or too soft to hold. they pull loose way too easy. The aluminum ends should solve you problems tho.

[Information Man]

What would be better, the slipper or a center diff ??

I now have the slipper with a stel spur, would a center diff be better for jumping and not to hard bashing ?

I have yet to have any problems but may be able to get a cenetr diff cheap NIB !!

So I was wondering if it was worth the money or should I stick with the slipper ??

thanks

[dgrobe2112]

The center diff is for a racing purpose.. The center slipper, is good for bashing.. that way if you land on the wheels and have the throttle going.. then it will slip a little.. and not just add instant power.. and cause damage..

[Philly's Finest]

Wow haven't been here in a good while. Right now my truck is in pieces on my bench. Just got finished baking my wheels. Boy did that stink up the place!:( Recently I had some custom peices made, the most important being the center plate. I highly doubt I'll ever bend it again, lol.

I keep bending the front right turnbulkle between the rod end & the arm. I think I have bent it at least 15 times over this summer and I am not exaggerating. So I have decided to take off my aluiminum top arms since they are causing the severe bends. They were pretty but not practicle.

My buddy got a dom back in June. Boy has he tore up his truck. Doesn't like to listen. I swear he's dropping like $50 bucks every 2 weeks on the thing. That is bizarre cause in the 11 months I have had the truck I doubt I have even spent $100 total on pieces and/or replacements.

[Coconut]

If you are using the stock black threaded rod turnbuckles then they are weak. I've been using the Lunsford one with plastic arms. So far ;so good. But I'll probaly do some crazy jump ;land wrong and snap a rodend off. Once they start coming off they need to be repalced as they seems to keep coming off.

[morfracerX]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid83/p5be55ca1c1304f1364852b9247f1a423/fae1c5a9.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid83/p2e91c7cd8b3e08abe4f246dee4047d65/fae1c5a5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid83/p15abc0eff1b56d8052d3e58d32bab868/fae1c5a3.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid83/p029bd62921d83346e31c337572644812/fae1c599.jpg


a few pics of the new body, more too come

[Philly's Finest]

I had bent the stock one the first time then I just used bolts from the hardware store and cut the ends off. The plastic isn't stripped yet. I'm thinking the fact that the aluiminum wouldn't bend and the ballend would flex some was causing the bends. I was using the powerline arms w/ stock ballends, not the cnc ofna arms that come with the cnc ballends. Get what ya pay for I guess.:p

[morfracerX]

Ok, so I just got my otrher DOM in the mail, this one has a full praline kit on it but needs a parts I also have my other DOM here and all it needs is a front left CVA. My problem is I don’t know what DOM will best suit my needs, one of them is headed to eBay and the for sale section but I don’t know which one. I have NO intention what so ever of ever racing but I will be bashing on a track %80 of the time. Here is the parts needed for both dom

Prroline DOM
Front/rear upper arm hinge pins
CVAs at all four corners
T-maxx or other off brand shocks
9.5 pro servo saver
tires/wheels

Stock DOM
Front left CVA
9.5 pro servo saver
tires/wheels

Now the price to get the proline dom up and running is three times that of the stock dom and after spending the cash on the praline DOM and the stock DOM I don’t want to kick out anymore cash this month (in other words my wife will kill me). On top of that if and when I sale the praline DOM I think I could get $200 if not more and that would pay for the mods the stock dom needs, but if I sold the stock dom that wouldn’t payt for all the stuff the praline dom needs. Like I said I don’t race but I do bash at a track (a big assed 1/8 scale track) and I don’t know if I really need the praline stuff?

[dgrobe2112]

The Proline Dominator is a great racing truck.. you will be happy with it if you were racing it.. if you are just bashing around.. and jumping.. the Proline Dominator jumps better.. but the stock ofna arms are a little tougher.. however.. the Tmaxx arms are easier to come by.. and you can get a set of RPM tmaxx arms.. you do not need Tmaxx shocks for the proline dominator.. you can use your regular dominator shocks..

I think if you were to sell the 2.. if it were me.. the i would sell the stock one.. if you decide to sell the proline truck.. let me know.. and tell me how much you want.. and send me some pics..

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[morfracerX]

well i will be keeping the proline DOM and the stock DOM is on ebay as we speak.

[super_maxx]

hey guys i got a Dom and its got the Proline sup kit on it and all the works but i still stomped on what motor i should get any ideas?

[dgrobe2112]

I put the hyper .21 8 port motor in mine.. My next motor will be the Os .21 VZB the 8 port is so hard to keep tuned.. the VZB is better.. but for price.. the 8 port motor will be best.. uhh.. Novarossi make some good motors.. R&B concepts has some good motors.. the truck is fast allready.. and any high HP motor will be fine..

[morfracerX]

i have been looking for a month or so now i have have made up my mind to go with the WASP. after reading a lot of post about it the world over i have only seen a few draw backs (such as the motor likes to ran rich and making sure you get the right carb). at a price of $165 over at tower with their $15 off ad you cant beat it. i have not made my mine up %100 but i will have a OS RG-X or a WASP in my proline dom soon.

[dgrobe2112]

WASP motors are ok.. dont last long though.. your better to get the RG.. better carb, and last longer.. and cheaper..

[morfracerX]

still not done with her yet but i can show her off

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pe6727ad81668a04bb23ac17714e5cdce/faa2d0e9.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pae3ea494c2de8b7703378f447484d718/faa2d0e7.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p3ab086330f8e56adbae6144ec000125d/faa2d0e6.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/p4c4a18cf2df55e282d9b31cd3a904099/faa2d0e4.jpg

[super_maxx]

yea i looked on towers and they got the RG motor going for 109!
so i think thats way ill get any other ideas?

[morfracerX]

i i like the price factor of the RG-x for $139 but i like the power factor of the WASP but it's $165. o man what vto do what to do?

[offroadcrazy01]

What weight diff oil are you useing in your front and rear diffs?


By the way this is morfracerX i'm just posting under my brothers name.

[offroadcrazy01]

by the way i saw that OFNA makes a 50k weight diff oil, what would happen if i used that in my front dif? just wanted to try something wild :D :D

[PCC]

Less steering.

[Marciano1969]

I want to get into the mt class at my track and have been looking at the trucks out there the savage and t-maxx seems to have real problem turning with the high cg, will the I am thinking about gettting a Dom and putting the proline maxx conversion kit on it, will it be better or worse than a jt racing conversion or will they be to close to call, I want a truck that will be fast and easy to drive not one that will looks as if it will tip over in the turns.



Ok i went back and read threw the pages and it seems the proline conversion is the way to go waht hinge pins do I need to get in order to put the truck together, can you get some ti ones that are made for the dom or due you get ones made for the t-maxx, thank you for any help

[dgrobe2112]

Marciano, the proline conversion for the dominator is definitly the way to go.. the truck handles, and flies much better.. the JT conversion Tmaxxs while lower center of gravity, dont turn or handle as well as the proline dominator.. i have a proline dominator.. and it flat gets it.. i reccommend getting the center diff, and rear brake conversion for the truck as well.. will help the truck fly better..

One downside to the dominator.. is when you hit the brakes in the air.. the truck will want to flip over forward.. i had to dial out brake on mine.. i got a hightorque throttle servo.. and adjusted it.. but kept my endpoint so i wouldnt lose the braking.. but rather not get as much at first..

Also, there is an extended chassis out there for the dominator.. i think it adds like 1/2 an inch to the truck.. which will also make it fly better..

Anyway.. the proline dominator is the way to go.. if your getting into the MT class.. if you decide against the dominator.. the Savage runs a distant 2nd..

Also, there is Lunsford Titanium hingepins for the Tmaxx that will work just great for the dominator.. the stock threaded hinge pins wont work..

Also, you will want to get a set of buggy outdrive cups which are longer than the stock dominator ones.. but if i am not mistaken.. Ofna has put the newer updated cups in the new trucks..

If you got any more questions let me know.. i did the proline conversion on my truck.. and got all the bugs worked out..

[Marciano1969]

Sounds good, thank you for the help, are you the same user name on rcfiles, I live in san antonio and race at the local track.

[dgrobe2112]

yep, that would be me.. i live in Waco.. do you do any traveling to race?? I race in Georgetown some.. and right now Georgetown has free entry fee.. Also, we got a big turnout in MT in Killeen, got 2 classes of monster trucks.. If you decide to travel.. post it on rcfiles.. and maybe we can get some of the locals.. and the Killeen guys to race out of town.. Also.. we had a couple go up there to SA once from Killeen.. and he had a pretty bad race.. when do yall race..

[Marciano1969]

we changed the race day to sunday, sign up is at 10 and races start at 11, I went to georgetown once but only ran the electric class most of the 1/8 go to georetown and race when I get this truck going will travel and race it.

[dgrobe2112]

The GT track held the nitro invitational this year.. i didnt race the monster truck.. but i did race the 1/8th buggy.. and did ok.. got 4th in the b main.. but got a 2nd place trophy because the top 2 bumped up..

If you got any questions.. or need any help, feel free to email me.. i can get you the info on the parts your gonna need to do the conversion.. and when you travel.. are you gonna take some more SA guys with you? If so.. post it.. so i can get some of our guys to go..

[Marciano1969]

Have you seen the conversion sold by ace where they use the mugen steering blocks and the 8mm axles, that kit seems like it will be able to withstand the power. How did you limit the shock travel did you put spacers inside the shock to limit the downtravel and are the bulkheads holding up.

[dgrobe2112]

yes, you definitly want to put some limiters inside the shocks and outside.. i had to limit it from down travel, and uptravel.. make sure that the chassis bottoms out before the shocks do.. what was happening was it was spitting the cvd's out of thedrive cups.. i got longer drive cups.. and limited the suspension travel a little.. that is a sorta hit and miss deal.. i put around 1/4" piece of fuel tubing on the inside.. and on the outside.. its a hit and miss deal on the outside spacer.. but i got it fixed up.. i am gonna change the shock oil in my truck prolly this weekend.. so i can give you a definite distance on the pieces i used..

What weight oil do you think i should run.. i am thinkin of running 30 wt.. with the stock black springs..

I havent seen the ace conversion.. i will go check it out.. the proline bulks hold up well.. i am more worried about the proline arms than anything else.. but i have wrecked a couple times pretty tough.. and they hold up good..

[Marciano1969]

When I ran my 1/8 I had 30 in the front and 35 in the rear and it seemed to work, what oil are you running in the diff 5k in the front 7k center and 1k in the rear, I called ace and the are talking about running a saber chassis with the 1/8 parts in order to use the hubs they say you have to use a longer chassis. Did you get the free diff from ofna, I sent them a e-mail to see if they are still giving them out but no response yet. When I get the truck built up I will go up to g-town and race it will post on rcfiles when I go will be the first of the year with christmas comming up will have my hands full just getting the truck built in between all the other stuff.

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, i dont know what oils i am running in my dominator diffs.. just the stock.. but for my kyosho buggy.. i am running 3 in front 7 in center and 1 in the rear..

i am running 50 in front shocks and 30 in rear shocks.. dont know if i could put that in the dominator or not..

right now i am running 30 all around in the truck.. should i try running the same as my buggy.. yeah after the new year would prolly be easier for everybody..

[Marciano1969]

What is the truck doing, if bouncing to much go heavier to slow it down, if steering is issue you can go heavier in the rear to add steering or lighter to take some away, or you can mess with the preload to do the same if you like the weight you are at.


If i where you I would change the weight in the diff to the same as your buggy and see if you can get it to handle better the diff weight will cause the front to pull the rear just like the 1/8 scale's you could really get the truck to handle just like your buggy

[dgrobe2112]

i dont have the center diff.. i could change the oils in the front to be like my buggy though right?

[Marciano1969]

you could try it , the savge owners due it and they don't have a center diff the 7k in the center usaually throws the power to the front and rear equally, I would do it if the rear has the grease it acts like the 1k so you would'nt have to change that out

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i wasnt able to actually put a setup on the truck. However, I will do it this week.. change the diff oils.. and shock oils.. But i didnt actually need a setup on this truck.. the truck had a great weekend.. Raced in in Waco, and won all 3 heats and the Main.. Raced in in Killeen on Saturday night.. and won all 3 heats and the Main.. This truck is becoming very consistant.. andreliable.. All i gotta do is go over the truck with my screw driver.. ad make sure everything is tight..

Great truck..

[Marciano1969]

I was reading on the other site it looks like you cleaned house, don't know if i want to tell you when I go up to g-town lol, it seems you are the one to beat now. Good job nothing better than being king of the hill

[dgrobe2112]

oh yeah... i forgot.. your on rcfiles too.. yeah.. the King of Killeen.. dont know what to do.. he talks all this crap.. then gets beat.. and dont have nothing to say.. at least he took it like man.. thats why i aint rubbin it in i guess.. lol..

[waterboy]

can someone please give me a part number for long drive cups and cvd's for the rear. thanks

[dgrobe2112]

i think the number is 30082

[waterboy]

thanks for the part number.

will the 9.5 cvds work on the rear?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont know the answer to that question.. i run the proline conversion on mine.. you will want to make sure that they are long enough.. they may work.. but i am not sure..

[waterboy]

i thought i read that somewhere, maybe not, thanks for your help!!

[dgrobe2112]

no prob

[RCFAN]

i just had the lhs order me a dominator. what i want to know is does it break as easy as the first m/p did ? also i got the rtr with the hyper i guess it's going to be the 4 port and not the 8 . how well will it do in a drag race with the new 2.5 maxx. also i have a savage and i also have a monster gt on the way. i have a wasp 26 on the way to my buddy has a track and i will be running there on sunday with him out of the 3 truck's what one should i put the wasp in. i have a 2.5 maxx that i have all rpm stuff on now i wish i had keep all of the stock stuff so i could put it on the dominator i guess i will do the proline kit just a little later on.

[dgrobe2112]

as far as breakage.. i never broke anything with my stock setup.. i didn have to makesure and locktite all my grub screws.. if your truck has the 4 port motor.. i think your truck will win off the line no problem.. but.. maybe with the 2 speed the tmaxx might.. and thats a big might pull you on the top end.. dont know bout the wasp motors..

[cereal_killah]

I just recently completed my Dom/Hybrid. I found the Nova Hybrid shock towers worked awesome. They let my crowd pleaser body hunker down low over the chassis. Anyhoo, here is a link :)

http://www.novarcproducts.com/hybrid.html

They work awesome and seem to be super sturdy. I did throw a set of 9.5 shocks on too, just because they beefier than the Hyper7/Dom shocks. Anyhoo...just an FYI because I know alot of you guys have Dom/Hybrids out there:)

[dgrobe2112]

Do you have any pictures of your truck with those towers on it?? and the body?? Also.. is it a plug and play deal if you got the proline bulkheads??

Let me know asap..

[RCFAN]

i just got my dominator it's just past break in and i have went throught 2 sets of spur gears and 2 clutch bells.the first time it happen ok ofna messed up with the gear mesh. so i got lhs to order me a new set so i wouldnt have to send it back. i made sure the mesh was right this time. so i take it outside run it for about a tank and check it well it done it again just like the last time but it dont take all the teeth off or even 2 or 3 teeth in a row. it will take one skip 3 or 4 and take one . this time when i stoped it had only take 2 but the clutch bell was messed up and the other teeth are fine.the engine was in line it want on a angle. i dont understand has anyone else had this happen ?

[Marciano1969]

I had the same isssue with mine and it was the motor mount to motor screws that where loose, you might want to check all screw and loctie metal to metal and also look for anything in the clutch bell my be a small pebble.

Droble I have seen the nova shock towers and they will fit on the proline bulks they are aftermarket for the maxx and will bolt right up thinking about getting them but want to make sure they will not messup the supsesion. I have the racerx kit and supershocks for the truck comming should be here by next week, if you pm me your address I will send you the shocks they are used butyou can have them if you want, all that is missing is a rcscrews kit the nova towers and center diff almost ready.

[Philly's Finest]

RCFAN you really got to go over the entire truck and threadlock everything. That's what I did on the advice of others when I first got my dom and a year later I'm still running the same spur & bell.

[waterboy]

does anyone use an extended chasis?

[dgrobe2112]

I heard good things about the extended chassis.. but also it will mess up your steering radius.. but the truck will fly better with the extended chassis..

http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/2.jpg
http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/13.jpg
http://www.freepichosting.com/Images/139238/16.jpg

[waterboy]

nice pics. are you using the proline suspension kit?

[Marciano1969]

Looking nice dgrobe, you still laying the spank down up there

[dgrobe2112]

yes... it is the proline suspension kit.. the truck runs and handles great.. this past weekend i had some motor problems.. i think it was the sudden change in weather.. dont know.. but my plan is to take out the 8 port and put in a RZ VO1B.. but this past weekend.. was not a good weekend.. motor probs.. and blew 2 bearings... so.. it wasnt that great.. sunda got 2nd place..

[winning edge designs]

Hey guys, I recently aquired a substantially abused, heavily incorrectly assembled Dominator with Proline bulkheads and T maxx conversion parts.

I noticed on the bench during my rebiuld, the CVD's aren't long enough to stay in the outdrives correctly with the std Dominator outdrives. Am I missing something, or are we all supposed to trim back the arms to get it all to fit correctly?

Last question, this had CNC diff cases and i'm using 4 - 1/8th scale shocks, are there any other things too look for, wear wise, fragile, etc?.....Thanks, Jim

[Marciano1969]

Hi Jim, I rember you from the hyper 7 forum a little while back. What I used on my Dom was some 3mm washer to keep them from comming out and the newer doms have longer outdrive cups you need to pick some up and put them in the front and rear. The cnc diff will work nice, I have seen some with the center diff brace doubled and longer bolts to keep the flex down, they also make a longer chassis for them and you can get some rc alloys center bones if you have any problem with them.


dgrobe2112 is racing his and doing very well with I am sure he has some more info for you .

[dgrobe2112]

WED, you will need to get the Ofna #30082 drive cups.. they are longer.. also.. i got my upper pillow ball threaded all the way to where the threads arent shown.. thread the upper pillow ball on all 4 wheels into the arm, untill you cant see the threads.. then prolly another half turn.. then set your lower arms off that.. make sure that the steering will have full throw left and right. I am not running any shims or anything on the truck.. I have however had a problem with my inner bearings going bad, i think the power and all that may be a problem.. i am thinking of going to the RPM turnbuckles.. with the bigger bearings.. not sure yet though.. Also.. with the more powerful motor.. i got rid of those stock plastic hexes for the wheels and went with aluminum ones.. you can get Savage aluminum for like 7 bux...

Other than that.. the truck should be very tough.. using the 4 shock setup is perfectly fine.. but i am gonna try to go with the 8 shock setup cuz with just the 4 shocks.. i am having to use alot of spacers.. which is fine.. but i wanna try the 8 shocks..

One thing about the truck.. is you NEED to go to all the drive cups.. and i mean all of them.. there is 8 of them on the truck.. 3 per front and rear diff.. and 2 in the center.. and Locktite the set screw that hold the drive cups on.. other than that.. i have had no problems with the truck..

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I had a Hyper 7 a while back, it was a great buggy. I got a Kyosho because people convinced me i'd go even faster with one.....wasn't true. I'm running a Mugen now, because at least there are Mugen guys around when you need help ,or a part, :)......Only a few run Ofna buggies, but a bunch run Ofna trucks, wierd?

With my 4 shock set-up it seems good, but i'm using 1/8th shocks and white (stiff) springs. I have one 1/8th inch spacer in the springs all around and .130 inside the shocks to take out some downtravel......I'll see how it goes this weekend....Thanks guys, Jim

[dgrobe2112]

WED, what oil are you running in your truck.. i got the white springs in my truck too.. but i need alot of spacers to get the truck back up to level.. are you using the stock truck?? I got the proline suspension on mine.. maybe that is why i need alot of spacers..

[winning edge designs]

dgrobe, I have a combination of slightly worn front ofna shocks that came with the truck(silver hyper 7 ones), using 40 wt oil. In the rear I have fresh Ofna Pro shocks(3.5 shafts) using 30 wt oil. My rears feel a alittle stiff, but i'll run them this way and see if the break in and free up. Or i'll try 25 wt in back if not....You may have oil that is difficult for the springs to overcome?.....From my other trucks, i've found they don't bottom much because of the big tires and too heavy oil results in less traction instead of more..........Jim

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. sounds like a good idea.. never thought that the oil could be too thick... i am running 40wgt oil.. maybe i should try 30

[winning edge designs]

Ok, just back from the race, our first state series race in Florida, the track was the triple nickle, 555 speedway.

Strange that after a few tanks my ride hieght dropped a bit, I ended up with 1/4 inch of shock spacers all around, same oil.\

The truck worked fantastic, handled great, but I ran the engine a little rich first few runs on the track, including qualifying. I TQed Unlimited monster truck by 5.5 seconds, even against a custom biult super stretch 1/8th scale conversion, which qualified 2nd. We were 1.5 laps faster then 3rd qualifier, :).

I had a 2 lap lead at the 8 minute mark in the 20 minute main, but my clutch bell bolt broke and I DNF'd. I used a bolt of a too soft material that can't handle the abuse I think?......It'll be fixed for next race though, :)!.......Jim

[dgrobe2112]

Well, im sellin my baby.. if anyone is interested it is posted in the sale section.. or email me.. dgrobe2112@netzero.com

[PCC]

I have asked this before and I was not satisfied with the answers last time so I am asking again.

Has anyone seen or own a Dominator/Monster Pirate that will wheelie?

I know that wheelies are a waste of time but I have seen someone who's Dominator will wheelie and I was wondering how much power it takes to do this.

[dgrobe2112]

mine wheelies.. RZ Vo1 motor.. and does it when it gets to the bottom of the tank

[PCC]

What's your gearing and are you running a center diff?

[winning edge designs]

I'm running a Novarossi engine, with plenty of power, wheelies seem to only happen with the help of some well placed bumps under power. Just like with a 1/8th buggy, there is alot of weight up front in any 4wd, so wheelies aren't as common as in a 2wd. Gearing may help, but at the expense of top end..........Jim

[Scarab RC]

Does OFNA have any plans for a new Dominator in the works? Just checking so that I get the latest and greatest version. Also, what buggy is the Dominator based on?

Scarab

[dgrobe2112]

Not sure if they are release a new one or not.. their website dont say anything about it. I am not sure what buggy it is based off of.. cuz it dont have buggy diffs.. it has its own style diffs. Has a flat chassis.. but i dont run Ofna buggies..

If you are in the hunt for one.. i got one fully raced out.. with proline suspension on it.. If your interested.. email me and i will tell you all that comes with it..

Pics of the Truck (www.******.net/members/dannyg)

[Scarab RC]

Damn, I just bought one! The 80% kit. Can you give me any information on the Pro-line suspension kit? Is the Dominator a bump start truck? I'm going to run a O.S. VZ-B.

ps- I called OFNA. The Dominator is based on the MBX Pro and Ultra buggys. They also said something about a PCR Edition Dominator or at least PCR parts for it.

Scarab

[dgrobe2112]

you can put a pullstart motor on it.. but.. i rather use a bump starter.. the proline suspension kit.. is well worth the upgrade.. it make the truck handle so much better... sticks in the turns.. flies better.. and better suspension adjustments available. they have the conversion kit at acehardwarehobbies for 399, i am sellin my truck for 400 plus shipping. So this is a steal, any of you dominator guys out there want to do the conversion.. now is the time.. conversion with a free truck, motor, servos, everything.... comes with 40 series wheels and tires.. and new orion wheels and tires.. and used bowties wheels and tires..

dgrobe2112@netzero.com

sorry bout posting all that about my truck.. should be in the sale section..

[Scarab RC]

I want to make sure I build my Dominator out right the first time. Please explain what "Shimming the Diffs" means...in detail.

Thanks,

Scarab

[dgrobe2112]

go to www.ofna.com and check the forums there.. there are quite a few post about that there

[Scarab RC]

Does anyone know what the Dominator's weak points are?

For racing, what should I consider upgrading upfront so I don't have to worry about it during a race?

Scarab

[dgrobe2112]

There really arent any weak points on the truck.. when i had mine stock.. which wasnt long.. i didnt have any problems with it.. the only thing i would suggest.. is makeing sure all your grub screws are tight.. and loctited.. thats about it.. other than that you should have no problems with the truck.. make sure you shim the diffs..

[Scarab RC]

I got the Powerline front and rear bulkheads. Lightweight aluminum but stronger than plastic just for security. It's a lot easier to replace a plasi