Ofna Monster Dominator

[N2O Guy]

Well im waiting for them to become available in the Pro version then Im going to order one from Nitrohouse. Please post any info you might have about them.
:)

[HotTrick]

Never heard of it! Can you post a pic? Is it a .21 powered truck?

[NitroRookie]

I really think the Dominator is nothing than a Revamped Monster Pirate.

[RCtinkerman]

Let's see it. I never heard of it either:confused:

[BillB]

It's listed in the new 2002 Buyer's Guide without a picture. They're toying with us ... I must see this beast.

[Speedtester]

Pic

[BillB]

Sweet. Those front posts could use a little trimming. It also looks like those are the Pro-Line Clodbuster semi-chevron tires. I like the look. :p

[Speedtester]

Yea, I hate the way they didnt cut the posts for the pic. You can get those tires and rims now from Ace Hobbies. They are MT3 Rims and Monster Race Split tires. I was going to order the tires but decided the Imex Baja were better. I hope I made the right decision.

[NitroRookie]

Speedtester,

Where did you find the Pic of the Dominator?

[Speedtester]

I found the pic at another message board, here is the link.

http://pub11.ezboard.com/frcmtnetworkmessageboardmtofnamonsterpirate.showMe ssage?topicID=5725.topic

[BillB]

It looks like the tires are a bit smaller than usual for the MP. Are those the rims that are supposed to accomodate any of the T-MAXX sized tires?

[Speedtester]

Are those the rims that are supposed to accomodate any of the T-MAXX sized tires?

Yes I'm 99.9% sure they take Tmaxx tires. I hope so I just ordered the Rims and Imex baja Maxx tires.

[BillB]

Let me know how that works out. I am curious as to how they'd look on my NQ. I like the MP stock tires and some of the USA-1 and ClodBuster stuff but there are just too many compelling tires for the Maxx to be ignored. They are, however, substantially smaller than my stock NQ tires from what I can tell. :(

[DaMaXXer]

I know wut I am gettin for christmas this year. Damn that is a phat truck. When does it come out?

[Speedtester]

BillB, I'll post some pics and results soon as they come in.
Stupid weather now says snow tomorrow here in RI!:mad:

[NitroRookie]

I think the dominator would look cool if it had a set of Jumbomaxx claw dawgs on it.

[r.c.dealer]

It looks like a new version of the Pirate 10. Notice the body is exactly the same as the .21 version of the pirate 10. The Dominator still looks cool though.:cool:

[NitroRookie]

This is from Horizon:

Part# Desc. Retail Price
OFN14338 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,RTR $939.95
OFN14339 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE W/.21 $724.95
OFN14340 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE $549.95
OFN14345 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,STS,RTR $1,499.95
OFN14346 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE W/.21,STS $1,299.95
OFN14347 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,STS $1,049.95

[Speedtester]

Wow, even if you substract 20% off the retail price that thing is still pricey. I wonder if those who have the Pirate now can buy the upgrade parts?

[DaMaXXer]

Well those are the retail prices right which are usually way more then the hobby shop price right? :eek: :eek: :eek:

[madmike]

OFN14338 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,RTR $604.99 $939.95 $334.96 On Order
OFN14339 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE W/.21 $466.99 $724.95 $257.96 On Order
OFN14340 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE $354.99 $549.95 $194.96 On Order
OFN14345 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,STS,RTR $964.99 $1,499.95 $534.96 On Order
OFN14346 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE W/.21,STS $836.99 $1,299.95 $462.96 On Order
OFN14347 1/8 DOMINATOR M PIRATE,STS $675.99 $1,049.95 $373.96 http://www.jerryshobbycenter.com/search.asp On Order

[madmike]

oops the first prices are the real ones:)
cheap huh?

[Nitromethane]

The Dominator is nothing new to us previous MP owners.
Ho Bao has just done what alot of us have done already. (T-Maxx size tires, long front shock tower, long front shocks).
One version of the Dominator is supposed to have a slipper clutch, but they are only $50 seperate.

I would recommend getting a monster pirate and building to your preferred spec as opposed to paying the outrageous price for this Dominator.

[Coconut]

Usually when buying a decked out with the hop-ups it will be cheaper;so we will just have to wait and see what it has. No way I'm going to buy it ;then buy separate hop-ups. I've never seen it cheaper that way on any rc vehicle. Besides all we've heard of is about prototypes. It could be quite different. Also I suspect they will be much cheaper alittle after being released than what's showing;unless they are tricked out with alot of new stuff;which I suspect it is by time span.

[rccarkilla]

That pic is from the RCRacer magazine available monthly here in the UK.

I have seen one of those dominators in person, and boy, they are cool! Aluminium all over it, and a very thick lexan shell, with a .21 Hyper powering all 4 wheels. Very nice, but there's not much info from it.

Remember - It's really an Ofna

=chris=

[DaMaXXer]

Hey were can I buy this truck? Thanx:D

[fezzy]

I am interested in buying the Dominator after i saw it, i bought a NMT a few months ago but wanna sell it to either get a Dominator or a Hyper 7 buggy, i know the Dominator would be a better choice but buggy's are so fun!!

Here are some pics i've discovered, you may notice the body on it is the stock MP body, apparently the guy who has this (why he has it i have no idea)was painting the proper body at the time he took these pics and wanted to put a body on for some pics and so he put the stock MP body on....

http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021435224071.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256362468.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256810767.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256528188.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256611812.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256363868.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256373281.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/20024102125646839.jpg
http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/gallery3/200241021256931225.jpg

[morfracerX]

man this thing is hot hot hot, OK i thought it had 4 rear Hyper-7 shocks? and what is that fifth shock for i didn't see where iutw\ent on the truck. that slipper should help those twisted bones out alot

By the way anyone have a list of parts to upgrade an older stock MP to these specs

[R_C_MAN]

Originally posted by rccarkilla

Remember - It's really an Ofna

=chris=

Yes but OFNA gets there vehicles from Hobao and Hongnor also.
www.hobao.com
www.hongnor.com

[renegaderc]

Here's a pic for ya. The dominator rims do fit on the T-Maxx, and make it just as wide as having a proline suspension AND offset rims. Mine is 17" wide. It's a little over kill, and my final race truck won't run this setup. For now it's ok though.

Pics will be up in a little bit. The server is on the fritz.

www.renegaderc.com/images/ofnatires.jpg

[DaMaXXer]

They dont fit on directly you need to get the 17mm hubs first. I have therm on my emaxx and they add 2inches both front and rear so no more flipping.

[fezzy]

As some of you may have read, i am getting a Dominator either next week when my LHS gets some in or the week after.... Can't wait, getting a great price for it.... Gunna blow my mates maxx's away

[DaMaXXer]

Why s the Dominator so much money RTR

[fezzy]

I am getting the 90% Pre-Built version, getting a Hitec HS645 with it for steering and i am going to use my spare Sanwa/Airtornics RX and Sanwa/Airtronics 102 STD Servo for throttle/brake. The actual Pre-Built Dominator is costing me £314.95 which is $460USD, thats a f**kin sweet price for what your getting over here, may sound alot to your Americans but thats what all us brits have to pay, and this is the best price i can find for one.

[DaMaXXer]

I saw on Toer the RTR cost almost 900 so u are getting a good deal even though urs isnt RTR

[fezzy]

I very very very very very very highly doubt the Dominator will be $900, i think it may be more expensive than the MP in the states but not by much, the price difference here between the MP 90% Pre-built w/Hyper21 and Dominator 90% Pre-built w/Hyper21 is £5 which is $8, so your aint gunna tell me that in america there is a $600+ price difference!!!!

[DaMaXXer]

Ofna 1/8 Dominator Show Truck Special RTR
Special Stock# Tower's Low Price Stock Status
LXCLE3 949.99 Late May

This is from Tower

[fezzy]

Well not only is that the STS edition RTR which is the most expensive of the Dominator series but tower always have sky high prices before they actually get the product in stock

[DaMaXXer]

e ut does the Show truck look like?

[fezzy]

No body has seen the "STS" yet (Show Truck Special), should be sweet whatever it is to make it so 'special'

[morfracerX]

i bet it will have alum arms and some other hop ups.,some that ofna has not even started to sell yet. i hope one of them is a bigger tank lol

[Possumbot]

cnc diffs, aluminum arms, 2speed gears, basically all the aluminum parts, and some other assorted hop-ups probably.

They dont fit on directly you need to get the 17mm hubs first. I have therm on my emaxx and they add 2inches both front and rear so no more flipping.

i did the same thing with stock mp tires, can't flip, but it can't turn either. Try running buggy wheels, they work really well, just flip 2 easy.

[hardcoretmaxx]

hey does any one think the dominator will be able to wheelie and with that slipper clutch will you be able to put a 2 speed in it and how is the ground clearance on that this how high does it sit up off the ground would it be close to a hybird

[fezzy]

The GC is 81mm, 3" and 1/8 to be exact, I dunno about the wheelieing, i am not a great beliver in it but i'm sure if you setup your rear suspension very stiff and geared it down it would....

[hardcoretmaxx]

what about the slipper clutch will you be able to put a 2 speed in it and will it be able to wheelie

[fezzy]

You can't use a slipper and 2-speed, its either one or the other.. You can just take out the slipper and put in a 2-Speed though

[hardcoretmaxx]

OK but can it wheelie ??????????????????????

[DaMaXXer]

It wont wheelie with the stock Hyper motor but with a more torgie motor it will But it may wheelie in the gass with the stock motor, nuttin like a .21 T-Maxx though which can wheelie everywere.

[saiyanmanicomio]

What would be better to run with? The slipper or the 2 speed tranny.

[fezzy]

It depends what surface you plan to run on, if your doing jumps and some medium-heavy off-road then use the slipper, that kind of punishment doesn't suit the 2-Speed at all ALTHOUGH if you where only doing a few small jumps, mild off-road and on-road then the 2-Speed could be used, always remember to land throttle off from a jump though.

[saiyanmanicomio]

Thanks I can do that.

[hardcoretmaxx]

I seen this at my lhs and this thing looks awesome I'm going to have to get that for Christmas but the only thing I'm worried about is the ground clearance but it has more then my 1/8 buggy and that can go through a lot of stuff but it don't like those rocks that are like 4 inches big that you hit and it scratches you chassis bad but what do you think is the ground clearance good enough its what like 3 inches and it has a bumper too that will help get over those pesky rocks I don't have much of those big rocks but they pop out when your going 55 mph with a buggy and then you hit it so what do you think and I was wondering about the aluminum hop ups are they any good for it I think you can get all the parts in aluminum right how strong is it stock

[RB Maxx]

There is a weak point in the Dominator.
The back shocktowers are to small, so the truck will bottom out in just a small bump.
I have mange to brake three dogbones and two A-arms in the rear.

[fezzy]

Yes, that is correct.... The rear tower is too short for the long rear H7 shocks (they're 4 1/4" long), the front tower is made tall enough to use these shocks well but the rear is made for the old MP shocks in the rear which where 4", the result is that the shocks fully compress before the rear of the chassis can bottom out, the front is fine however due to the longer tower. The solution is fairly straight forward, a longer tower is needed.... I am hoping that OFNA/Hobao will get a tall tower into production to solve the problem as without it the result is most probably a few broken suspension arms. Something which is almost un-heard of in the MP community.

There is another way around the problem, i have been told that the front tower bolts straight up to the rear but you also need the chassis brace set which comes with a front brace mount that you can use on your new rear tower. I am not sure whether this will totally work but i did hear from one owner who tryed it that it worked.

Hopefully i am getting a taller rear tower made by a mate of mine.

[nitrodemon2500]

is this just another 1/10 scale truck that they squezed in a .21?

[fezzy]

What?! No way man! The Dom is classed as 1/8 but the wheelbase is the same as a T-Maxx (I Compared them side by side) but the whole chassis of the Dominator is a 1/8 buggy, this means the drivetrain parts are very strong and are all made to take the power of a .21 engine and also the whole components are all very strong because of the 1/8 buggy chassis

[SCOTTC]

i just got a peak at the domantor and it looks goooooood,cant seem to fins any place that has more info and pis on this thing, can any body point me right way.thanks..

[fezzy]

ScottC, what d'ya wanna know?! I have mine right on my desk as a write this!

[SCOTTC]

i just want more info,pis stuff like that ,and if your willing how dos thing go and handel,for the most part is it better than the ofna buggy i had,this thing looks like it can take a good bashing too.

[SCOTTC]

meant to say pics not pis.sorry.

[fezzy]

Ok right then, i should be getting some pics of mine very soon but so far i've run one tank through it idling so i can't give you a summary on handling or anything, i'm hoping to get another 2 tanks through it tomorrow... I'd have it broken in by now but i need some other stuff before i can really give it a good blast. The Build quality is very good, in comparison to my HPI NMT its built like a tank, everything is very strong, secure and rigid with it. My only gripe with the kit so far is that the instructions are attrotious, you will need some sort of previous experience in putting it together, saying that there is alot of help available in the form of communities and what have you that can help you should you get stuck.

So far i'm very pleased with it (even though i aint beat on it yet!), its all good quality, built strong and in my case SUPERB value for money. The only thing i changed with my Dom is that i used 30wt Shock Oil instead of the kit stuff (i heard a rumour it was 20wt) and also my LHS swapped the Dom tyres for some slightly bigger and all purpose Maxx Mashers

[SCOTTC]

great info so far thanks, cant wait to hear the rest and see more pics,i think rc car mag did a review but i cant find it .
thanks again.later.scott:D :mad: :mad:

[NitroRookie]

I wish someone who owns a Dominator RTR could make a vid. So I could see one in action. Because I think the Dominator RTR is one sweet looking truck and while worth every penny it costs to buy one.

[pineapplet]

its small.. only ten seconds... but my camera buddy sure got a good chuckle out of it... so did i.. 8)

btw, mine's not a true Dominator.. its an MP with the MT3 rims and tyres, the Dominator tall front set-up, but no slipper... so in fact ppl getting the dominator will be getting more than this!

its running a stock hyper 7 with an RB86 pipe, and blue kyosho springs all around...

http://www.trazz.com/rc/mp_movie2.wmv

[fezzy]

Dennis, its Ash here.... AGAIN LOL!

Either you follow me or I follow you, we must be on every board... I know i am :D :D

[NitroOwnsYou]

Heres some pics of nice MT3 wheels and maxx masher tires!

EK4
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDE42-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDD28-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

http://www.cartogra.com/rs/293CDD9C-8F5C-11D6-B42B-0090277A760E/screen.jpg

Well it really isnt a Dom, but its running alot of OFNA parts! Soon to have a MP 2 speed. Now its time to rebuild my MP, and also buy a Dom and throw in some 2 speeds in them!

[bangBANG!!]

im planning to use maxx tires on my dom?? will that make a difference in terms of handling and speed? thanks!!

[fezzy]

Not at all, the stock Tires are T-Maxx sized so there will be no difference at all. I am currently running Maxx Mashers on my Dom MT3 Rims

[Jimr]

The rear shocks bottoming out before the chassis,I don't see that as a problem.I've been racing my dom this year and am tied for the point lead in the MT class. Our track has some pretty good jumps on it and the back of my chassis has never bottomed out.If you are bending the rear axels you need to shorten the drive cup in the rear (the one on the outside) to allow full deflection of the suspension.I did mine with a belt sander and a dremel.You take off about 3/32" and then use the dremel to re-contour the bevel on the inside,that should take care off your axels bending.The dom is avery good truck to race.

[fezzy]

Jimr, if your saying your Dom doesn't bottom out in the rear thats the bad thing, bottoming out of the chassis is what you want. The chassis is designed to take the brute force of any jump all the shocks do is slow it down as much as possible to lessen the impact. If your chassis does not bottom out then it transfers the shock to other suspension components like the shock caps, shock shafts, suspension arms and shocktowers.

[Jimr]

Most of the time if any part of your chassis is going to bottom out it'll be the front, if you land a little nose down after a jump.I've been racing the dom for the last 2 months and the only thing that broke was the handle on the pull start.I feel the rear not bottoming out is just a minor thing.I also put 40wt in the front and 30wt in the rear to stiffen it up a bit.

[fezzy]

Jimr, I enlarged both holes in my shock pistons with a 1/16" Drill bit and re-filled them with 50wt oil, its not very plush and very smooth. Probably not best for racing but its a great great setup with blue kyosho long springs in the rear and white kyosho long springs in the front.

[Jimr]

I run the proline maxx mashers,they do better than the stock dom tires on a dry track, and really hook up on the track when it has alot of grip.I like to race on the week night (wed.) the track holds the moisture better. than the sunday afternoon races.The 40 front & 30 rear seams good, even with the stock springs.

[bangBANG!!]

Ive bent my rear dogbone for my dominator but I dont know why. Can I still use it even with a bent dog bone? Im planning on getting a pair of CVD's to replace the rear dogbones, will that prevent it from happening again? thanks!!:)

[fezzy]

Jimr, I too use Maxx Mashers on the MT3's and I have a set of EK4 Rims/Tyres for abit of fun!. I was using 30wt with the stock shock setup and found it really quite stiff, i was advised to enlarge my shock pistons and fill them with 50wt, i did this and it made the Dominator into a all terrain eating monster truck. I geuss it depends what sort of track you run on, if you run on a bumpy track then consider the mod, its a great thing to do to transform your H7 Shocks into killer units.

[Jimr]

bangbang the dog bones bend when the suspension is at the end of its travel.The dog bones get caught in the slots where the dog bone goes in the drive cup. What I did was grind off some of the cup and recut the champher inside with a dremel.The front cva's will work too and be a strong set up, but you will need to put longer drive cups on the diff unit, to keep the axels from falling out. The ofna part is #30080. Going this way will save you alot of grinding work to get the stock dogbones to work.Also you can straighten your dog bones in a vise with a hammer till you get all the parts for the cva setup.

[bangBANG!!]

Thanks for the info and help. The part number you gave me was for the drive cups or are they for the front CVA's? My dogbones already have a sort of groove right where the shaft gets big and round. I guess thats where the point that binds against the drive cups.

[Jimr]

the part number I gave you is for the longer drive cups #30080 the part number for the cva,s is 18081 which is the same ones on the front. I haven't done this yet because I ground the drive hubs in the back first and if I still have trouble I'm going to put cvas in the back.

[bangBANG!!]

ok thanks for all the info again! one more thing though, do you know where I can buy these off the net? sorry, shouldve asked that question a while ago.

[Jimr]

I usually go thru ace hobbies.com there out of cal. and very knowledgeble obout the dom stuff.

[bangBANG!!]

What company makes steering turnbuckles for the dom? Including the ones that attach to the stering servo. And how about the tie rod ends? Thanks!

[Nitroaddict]

I haven't been able to find any parts for the Dominator at Ace Hobbies, where are you guys looking?

[Jimr]

Just give them a call.

[mserradebrito]

This is apparently a great truck, a friend of mine Hai Lui in London has one and gave me great comments on the car, handles well and fast too!!!
Take care all of ya """"
From London :o

[blaablaa]

heres my dom

[blaablaa]

i more

[fezzy]

Nice lookin Dom man..

I'l get some pics of mine up tomorrow.

[blaablaa]

I seem to only be getting 2 wheel drive in the front only .What could it be?

[fezzy]

Check your grub screws in your rear diff drive cups, make sure they are tight into the flat spot on your diff shaft

[blaablaa]

Yup thats it .The screw fell out. iguess i got to shim it or somethin huh?
hey if anyone was wondering y i got my dom check these pics of my old t-maxx almost all aluminum.it was cherry.


got ran over by 2 cars !!!ouch:( :p :p
any way i hope i made a good decision thanks for the help.

[blaablaa]

another view:mad:

[blaablaa]

last one

[blaablaa]

heres my dom at night

[blaablaa]

forgot the pic

[fezzy]

hehe cool

[dmrcflyr2]

I got my Dominator 2 weeks ago and boy do I love it! I have about 8 tanks of fuel through it now so it is just starting to get broken in. I made my own remote glow ignitor. I just could not see cutting a big hole in the truck bed for the NI-starter.

The 'Nike' swoosh tires that came with it seem very soft so I am looking for another set of wheels and tires. I will run it primarily on a hard packed clay track. Any wheel/tires suggestions?

This thing really moves out too. I can't say enough about it!

Here is a pic.

[pineapplet]

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt5.jpg


http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt7.jpg


http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/domair5.jpg


(last but not least.. joined by a MadForce!)

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt6.jpg



Visit us at http://www.trazz.com/rc/

[matt from uk]

anyone have a stock dom which can wheelie or does anyone know any cheap hop ups (not new engine) which can make it do one?thanks
also has anyone raced the new t maxx and won stock?

[toddzilla]

keep in mind the dominator is an off road "race truck" , its not made for doing wheelies, its very well balanced. from what i've read the best way to get wheelie action is to get a torque pipe (als 650) and gear down to give it more punch. i think you can set up your clutch for leading edge engagement and that may help as well.. but its really not a wheelie machine unless you add more power. my monster pirate is getting very close to being a dominator and i pull wheelies off small hills and if i land just right. i have the stock hyper 7 with stock pipe.

[ChristianZx]

Just have to get this off my chest. Got my Dominator kit yesterday, decided to build the shocks today. Dominator manual is HORRIBLE. It's a couple of badly xeroxed sheets with illegible pictures. The Pitrate Extreme EP manual they threw in the box doesn't help either. Nor does the fact that they decided I only needed 3 threaded shock shafts. Odd number of O rings, etc, etc. No manual online either. ###? I'm going to call them in the morning, but I expected more than this.

[fezzy]

Christian sir, yes they are rubbish but chill!

Build the shocks up LIKE these exactly. The onyl difference is that the E-Clip which is shown on securing in the o-rings and plastic washers is held in place by the small C-Clips, they're like 3/4 circle with a flat bit, put the flat bit in the ridge of the shock body and then squeeze the other rounded side of the C-Clip so that it too clips into the ridge.

[ChristianZx]

Ah, thank you. I already built them, but put the 2 orings together, then the plastic rings, then the clip. Won't be hard to change though. Thanks!

[ChristianZx]

I'm looking for a nimh pack, which one fits the dominator box? http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/cat-cat-l.html

[fezzy]

This should fit the Dominator's RX Box nicely, reasonable price too and decent mah rating. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG16&P=7

It should install in the long bit of the RX Box with the RX itself in the tall 'rectangle' bit where the opening is.

[MicroMaxx]

I need some help with a couple things here. There is a lot of talk about the Dominator, but one thing I haven't read is how the Dominator chassis compares to the actual Buggy chassis' like the Hyper 7 or 9.5.

I am looking at either the Hyper 7 or Dominator. Price wise, the Dominator and Hyper 7 are pretty close. It's difficult to draw comparisons between them though. Obviously, they are two different kits, but which represents the better value? From what I know, the Dominator is basically a glorified Monster Pirate. I have read the Pirate line isn't Ofna's finest offering. Has the Dominator overcome the shortcomings of the Pirate?

I like the flexibility the Dominator offers, but I am curious as to whether the Hyper 7 represents better bang for the buck.

Can anyone help me on this one?

[MMTM]

Do you want a buggy or a monster truck?

You can't ask about value between the 2 if you want a monster truck (which I presume you do or you wouldn't have posted in the Nitro Monster forum) because if you buy a Hyper 7 with intentions to convert to a monster you blow your value right out the window. It will cost you about $50 - $100 for a set of MT tires to mount on the buggy, plus you will have to get (or make) body mounts, and get a truck lid. Finally you will have to find a way to regear to spur to compensate for the size and weight of the MT tires. The Dominator comes with a 62t spur vs. the Hyper 7 with a 51 (I think).

Your looking at about $200 or more depending on the deals you can get on parts, and you will have some custom work to do for installing the larger spur gear.

[MicroMaxx]

Well, my intentions were not to convert the Hyper 7 to a MT. I was merely looking at both kits as they come out of the box. The Dominator without radio gear is $410. The Hyper 7 with radio gear is like $440. I was just trying to figure out where the added price on the Dominator was coming from, given that the Hyper 7 seems like the better kit out of the two. (this is just my perception..I could be totally wrong.)

The Dom will meet my needs better than the Hyper, so I will probably join the MT ranks.

Considering that my LHS's don't carry Ofna parts (or any other parts for that matter,) what spares should I order with the truck? Are there any common parts that break?

[MMTM]

with my MP I used to break the front bulks often but I upgraded to the SaBR tower that supports the hinge pins (like the Dominator has) and I've had no trouble since. You might get some spare arms just in case. Most of the truck is very solid now.

[dmrcflyr2]

I have had my Dominator for about a month now and I love it. The only negative thing that I can say about it is that its steering/turning on 180 degree turns is poor. There are about three 180's on the track I run on and I have a very difficult time negotiating them. I have maxxed out the amount of servo throw but it still does not help. With the front wheels elevated the wheels rotate right and left as far as they will go but under load and moving on the track it seems inadequate. The Airtronics servo included has 144 oz/in of torque, so I do not think that is the problem. Maybe I need to go to a 200+ oz/in servo? Perhaps that is just how the Dom is. For what is considered a racing truck I would have thought that it would steer better.

Anyone else have this problem?

[MMTM]

You might also check to see if when the truck is on the ground the servo saver is releasing when you turn the wheels. You might just need to add some tension to the saver spring. If thats the case then just install a washer under the e-clip that hold the spring to tighten it up.

[dmrcflyr2]

MMTM,

The servo saver is not releasing when it is stationary on the ground. Is it possible that it is while driving? I am not sure how to check it while I am driving it, but I do know that just sitting still it is not releasing. Maybe I will add a washer anyway just to check it out.

Thanks for the input.

[blaablaa]

tires help alot .could it be a tracktion problen,mine was.I changed to the pro-line Max-Mulchers and they grip great.

[Jimr]

The tires the dom come with don't grip in the turns very well.I put on the maxx mashers from proline and they seem to grip the t
rack very well,whether the track is dry or been wet down.


Also I usually run my steering travel at 90% of full travel,with the added traction from better tires it was too much to handle at 100% travel.I also have the stock steering servo that comes with the dom.I run a 6 volt pack and it has plenty if torque.

[dmrcflyr2]

Thanks JIMR, I did just purchase some MT3 oval pin spike tires from Ace Hobby I just have not put them on yet. I guess that will be the next thing I try.

Thanks

[Jimr]

You'll have to let us know how they work.Proline makes a tire that looks like that,I just can't remember what there called.

[fezzy]

Maxx Bowties

[dmrcflyr2]

I did an experiment. I turned on the radio and lifted the front wheels and turned them full in one direction. I then turned the radio off and left the wheels in that position. I manually rolled the truck in a 180 degree turn. The inside wheel to wheel measurement was 5'2". Now granted that was stationary, but it does prove that it IS capable of tighter turns. Must be a combination of the tires and perhaps the servo saver or servo torque. I have seen T-Maxxes make these turns easily. It has to be my setup.

Any thoughts on putting Diff oil in the diffs for more torque on either the front or rear?

[bangBANG!!]

Im having problems with my diff, ever since I installed my rear brake kit. Stopping power was incresased greatly but whenever I brake hard, I hear grinding noises comin from the diffs, my diff cases even got hot. Ive read in another thread that I have to shimm my diff, my question is what is the size of the shims, in terms of diameter and thickness. Thanks!

[fezzy]

These are the shims you need, best order 2 lots because four probably wont be enough and it's always good to keep spares.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXCWP5&P=7

[ChristianZx]

Has anyone carved some tracks where the body touches the bumpers in their dominator body to get it to sit lower?

[bangBANG!!]

Fezzy:
Ok, thanks!! Btw. how much play/clearance should i set for my ring and pinioin? Will it be as mush as the clearance for the slipper clutch and clutch bell?

ChristianZx:

I did but I didnt actually carve tracks, what i did was to cut off the center section of the body. This is what i did.

[dmrcflyr2]

I have read in several posts about the need to put shims in the diffs. Can someone explain specifically where, why, and what symptoms indicate the need for this? I have disassembled both of my diffs before to re-grease them, but I have had no problem nor have I seen excessive play that would indicate that this is necessary.

Please explain.

Thank you.

[toddzilla]

well, the shims are placed behind the ring gear assembly to put the ring gear closer to the pinion, you may have to put shims behind the pinion as well, it just depends on your diffs.. if you look at the ring and pinion and how they mesh, most stock diffs apparently aren't set up with a tight enough tolerance to provide a good mesh. the only way to correct this is to shim the ring gear.

basically i think you should remove all the grease from the diff and assemble it, turn the pinion gear and see how much play there is, you don't want it to be tight, but just a small amount of play is optimal. I've done this on a real car and it's much easier because you can "run a pattern" and see where the metal rubs against each part. on a part this size i think its mainly feel. i've shimmed both the front and rear in my pirate and its much quieter now, although it still clicks a little when i get on the brakes.


hope this helps..

[blaablaa]

hey any body know where to get some shocks and stronger springs for my dom?

[MMTM]

If you have the Dominator you should already have the Hyper 7 shocks which are fine to use. If you want heavier springs try the trinity blacks (X-heavy) or purples (XX-heavy). If you really want some different shocks then call Ace-hobbies or check ebay.

[Coconut]

When shimming new buggy diffs ;you shim them to be just alittle "notchy"feeling. Once you run them they smooth up;caused by the gears not being best quality. If you shim them with just alittle play by the time the gears mate ;they have too much play. If you check the starting grid;off road conference their are several discussion by Pavadas and toher factory drivers on shimming diffs. All basically say "notchy feeling"when first setup. Aluninum diff cases are good idea because of the load placed on them by a MT.

[bangBANG!!]

Thanks on the info on shimming. But the thing is, I have had my truck for 2 months already, and my diff already shows signs of wear, is it still advisable to shim them to a notchy feel? Thanks!

[SoCAPhun]

I pretty much made up my mind in getting the Dominator RTR version. From the sound of things, it's built for durability and toughness which I'm really looking for. Plus can be a very raceable truck if I ever feel I want to step into that arena, and I work very close by Ofna so parts support won't be much a problem for me.
I have a few questions.
First, how is the stock .21 motor that comes with it? I'm not looking for all out high speed, but more on the lines of reliability and a decent engine to learn tuning. I will upgrade at a later date.
Second question is, how is the servo system that is included with the RTR kit? A friend of mine gave me his extra JR XR3 radio system, but I don't own any servo's. As long as the steering servo is a pretty decent one, I won't worry about changing it out for the time being.
Third, does the T-maxx rims fit the hubs of the Dominator? Or do I need to buy a special hub adapter or spacer for it. The T-maxx tires fit the Dominator rims, correct?

Thanks for anyone that responds.

[dmrcflyr2]

SoCAPhun

First of all, the Dominator is an excellent truck! I love mine so much that I am selling my Fatory Team RC10GT just to buy all of the aluminum upgrades.

1. The stock motor is great. It provides plenty of power for the truck. The piston fit is very tight at TDC, so it will take some effort to get it started the first time. Try to ensure that the piston is at BDC when you try to pull start it the first time. I have about 12 tanks of fuel through mine. Once primed it starts on the first pull nearly every time.

2. The Airtronics 94161 steering servo puts out 144 oz-in of torque and is plenty for the truck. The next step up would be the 94358 @200 oz-in, but this is a $100 servo.

3. The T-Maxx rims do NOT fit on the Dominator. T-Maxx TIRES fit the Dominator rims however.

The instructions for this truck are pretty bad. If you have built a few cars you should not have any trouble. I just dived in and took mine completely apart. I found that about 50% of the screws that needed loctite had them and half did not. Just another flaw in the RTR arena.

Enjoy. Feel free to ask any other questions you may come accross. I love to talk about my Dominator!

[Skribble]

Would it be better to get the Hyper .21 8 Port now or stick with the Hyper .21? This is gonna be my first nitro car ..

Also, what does TDC and BDC stand for? And the prime the engine all you do is put your finger on the exhaust and tug on the PS a few times, right?

[dmrcflyr2]

Skribble

I would not recommend the Hyper 21 8 Port if it is your first nitro engine. You have much more to lose if you screw up. I highly recommend getting some magazines and reading up on nitro engine operation, break-in, care, and maintenance.

TDC = Top Dead Center: position of the piston at the end of the compression/exhaust stroke
BDC = Bottom Dead Center: position of piston at the end of the power/intake stroke.

For either of the Hyper 21 engines covering the exhaust with the throttle full open and pulling through a couple of times is more than enough to prime them. But it is very difficult to pull through when the end is started for the first time. I disconnect the exhaust line and blow into it with the throttle open. If the needle valves are set correctly these engines should start on the first pull if poperly primed. I have the the Hyper 21 8 port on my Ofna MBX R2 buggy. I just ran it for the first time on Sunday.

[SoCAPhun]

dmrcflyr2-
Thanks for the response back.
This will also be my first nitro truck, and my first R/C car in about 15 years. From all the information I have gathered from the net about the different MT trucks, the Dominator sounds like the truck for me.
Once I get it delievered to my door step, I'm sure I'm gonna have some questions about getting it going and such.
I'll be coming back here often.

[SoCAPhun]

Is $475 the best it gets?
It's from Ace-Hobbies.com and even with sales tax (they are also in CA) and shipping, the net price will be lower then the next price I have found it for.

[dmrcflyr2]

SoCAPhun, yes that is much better than I paid. I bought mine from Stormer Hobbies; that was before I found Ace-Harware Hobbies. Now I buy everything from them.

[SoCAPhun]

I also found a interesting upgrade the other day on Proline's website.
Basically they produce aluminum bulkheads that allows you to use T-maxx 2.5 A-arms, shock towers and run dual shocks...along with T-maxx rims.
Not sure what type of advantages it would offer, but I guess it something else people to spend their money on.

I suppose if Dominators/Monster Pirate A-arms where in question in terms of quality and breakage problems, it would be worth while...but since they are as or tougher then T-maxx stuff, really worth it?

[dmrcflyr2]

SoCAPhun, I have not seen that upgrade, but I have seen one from Proline that is a Maxx suspension upgrade. It uses the 8 shocks through the A arms etc, but it is still all plastic and quite costly. I figure if I am going to spend money on an upgrade I want the anodized aluminum parts. I do not have a problem with the Dominators current suspension, nor have I had any breakage.

I did just lose a front CVA and a Shock actuator due to a nasty head on collision.

I also just make a stainless steel front and rear bumper set for the Dom. I will post pictures once the Dodge Power Wagon body is finished.

[fezzy]

Prolines 'Hybrid' Bulkheads don't really offer any advantage at all, if they where designed properly though they would give you more ground clearance and travel BUT, You will notice that the arms can't FULLY extend to give you that because the bind on the chassis, Dace MFG (http://www.dacemfg.com) are making some exactly the same that will mount further out on the chassis and will allow the suspension to fully extend and should give you more travel and ground clearance, IMO though its not really worth it... My Dominators suspension is just as good and i've not spent anywhere near the money on it as it would cost to build a 'hybrid' suspension setup

[SoCAPhun]

Fezzy-
Thanks for the heads up. $400 buxs is alot to spend to turn to turn a Dom into a 1/3 T-maxx and not even getting it to work properly!

Since the Dom's main comp is the T-maxx, how does is the handling compared to the T-maxx. Once I do start racing, about 95% of the class will be T-maxx's.
I read on Ofna website, one of their team drivers took on a T-maxx challange and won with the Dom, but it's a given he is a good driver.

[fezzy]

The Dominator handles much better than a T-Maxx, much more stable, much more agile and very predictable.. The 1/8 buggy roots shine through.

[Coconut]

My take on the pro-line bulks is that they wanted to mount the arm as close to center so that they did not get too wide and make a truck that is so stable that it wouldn't respond. Kind of like putting a pro-line suspension and off set wheels on a Maxx. Its stable but it certainly doesn't turn or react quicklt enough. You will notice that Unlimited and pro-line came to almost the same width when testing and deciding on their eXt width. So has Traxxas with the new T Maxx. Tha's one of the problem ;you run into when converting a buggy to a monster truck. Width equals stabliity equals less responsive steering. I've seen trucks so wide that they can only make sweeping turns. Everythings a compromise. The only reason to put ext arms on the Dominator is to get more ground clearance without bind from the extreme drive angles of the original short arms. What it will do to vehicle response we will have to wait and see.

[Skribble]

I would not recommend the Hyper 21 8 Port if it is your first nitro engine. You have much more to lose if you screw up. I highly recommend getting some magazines and reading up on nitro engine operation, break-in, care, and maintenance. I already have a couple mags. with needle tuning, breaking in, etc .. I just don't want to get another engine later on. I have an LHS that could help me tune too. I've done a lot of research too.

[dmrcflyr2]

Skribble, That is great if you have done the research and feel you are ready for that engine. Very few people that I have encountered in this hobby whether it be cars or airplanes really take the time to LEARN. They are in too big of a hurry to experience the excitement only to find aggravation. Nitro engines have led to the early departure of the hobby for many individuals.

Have fun and let me know how it does. I only have about 3 tanks through my Hyper 21 8 port. I have thought about putting it on my Dom as well, but it really does not need that much power for the track I run on. I cannot fully utilize the 4 port power at our track.

[Skribble]

Very few people that I have encountered in this hobby whether it be cars or airplanes really take the time to LEARN.Lol .. I do that with everything. Airsoft, Paintball, etc. I don't even own a Paintball gun and I know a lot more then my friend.

Is there anyway to mount a 1/8 Buggy to a Dom? :confused:

[fezzy]

Originally posted by Skribble
....Is there anyway to mount a 1/8 Buggy to a Dom? :confused:

OMG You PERVERT! You want to make Dominator pr0n movies?! SICK ! :eek:

:D :D :D

[Skribble]

Domatrix, I wouldn't be talking. ;) But really, is there any way to mount one? And how to do you make a quote with the person's name who said it?

[fezzy]

What part of a buggy do u want to mount?

[Skribble]

Woops, my bad. I meant a 1/8 Buggy Wing. I've seen 'em on HPI RS4 NMTs ..

[fezzy]

I don't see why you couldn't somehow, you'd have to buy a wing and sit down and thing though i rekon.

[raygun]

Hi Guys!!

Here are some pics of some of our Dominators which we shot at our local BMX track. We LOVE AIR!! :)

There are more pics on our website (http://www.trazz.com/rc) (go to the gallery!).


http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt38.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt39.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt40.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt42.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt43.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt45.jpg

http://www.trazz.com/rc/rctech/tnt46.jpg

[Skribble]

Do you have the part # for the Blue springs? They're soft right?

Heh. Nice Dominator, I see you got some CNC upgrades. :) Running a Hyper .21? And you're friends with pineapplet, right?

[fezzy]

Kyosho Long White 'Firm' Springs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXT923&P=7)
Kyosho Long Blue 'Soft/Med' Springs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXT926&P=7)

Yes its a Hyper21 and yes, i believe he's Pineapplet's brother..
Oh, and that IS Pineapplet's Dominator :D, why has Dennis got a new shell so soon after he got the Humvee?.

[ChristianZx]

Here's a picture of my dominator, as a virgin. The chrome pieces dont' look that nice anymore. Anyone know which model of the Pro-Line Chevy Silverado body which Paul Coleman uses? There's three listed at Tower. Thanks

http://www.christianzx.com/images/ofna/dominator02.jpg
http://www.christianzx.com/images/ofna/dominator03.jpg
http://www.christianzx.com/images/ofna/dominator04.jpg
http://www.christianzx.com/images/ofna/dominator05.jpg
http://www.christianzx.com/images/ofna/dominator06.jpg

[Skribble]

Tower does't have the body that Coleman uses, but it's the Maxx Chevy Silverado. And thanks for the #s fezzy.

[ChristianZx]

This aint' it?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXWE76&P=0

[Skribble]

That's it. I search "pro-line maxx" and it didn't show some other bodies .. My bad.

[ritchies rc10gt]

i just got the dominator 2 days ago,already started upgrading some stuff on it.i have the parts i took off for sale or trade in the forums if anybody is interested.i havent finished breakin yet but man this thing hauls!

[MrDHEJ]

Originally posted by ChristianZx
This aint' it?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?&I=LXWE76&P=0

You all do relize the proline chevy body is just a ford body with a bow-tie correct? I think they got lazy!

If you want a true chevy silverado body , HPI has one #7401

I'll post a pic later

[MrDHEJ]

Guess i'll post this now. This is HPI's Chevy silverado body #7401. Unlike prolines ford body with a bow-tie, this really is a Chevy


http://www.renagaderc.com/images/ofna-dom-0001.jpg

Here's a pic from HPI's site.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7401sil.jpg

[Mook9304]

Did anybody see performance bulkheads part #6021-00 on the ofna web sit to give it pivot ball suspension ?

[ritchies rc10gt]

http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/parts/6021/6021.html

is that what your looking for?its a kit to convert the dominator to T-MAXX suspension

[dmrcflyr2]

After landing badly from a triple jump into oncoming traffic (straight away no less), my Dominator upgrades began shortly after the head on collision with a T-Maxx. I looked pretty bad. I lost a CVA and a shock actuator. I quickly found out that the parts breakdown in the Dom's manual is not 100% accurate. I ordered replacement shock acutators and a re-build kit which did not fit my truck. Apparently the shocks are from the Hyper 7, just in case you need to order replacement parts. Anyway I figured I drop some money on some of the aluminum upgrades. You have two choices, Power line Racing or the Ofna 'stuff'. PLR also makes Al body mounts too, and their prices are 1/2 of the ofna stuff. I ordered everything from PLR except the front knuckles, wheel hubs and lower rear arms. The PLR lower rear arms do not fit the Dom.

The PLR parts finish is much nicer than the Ofna parts. So here are a few pictures of my baby. I also had plenty of time waiting for parts to arrive to paint up a couple of new lids. Which do you prefer?

[dmrcflyr2]

How do you attach multiple pictures to a thread?

[dmrcflyr2]

Lat one.

[dmrcflyr2]

I don't think this picture came out very well but, I also made replacement bumpers for front and rear out of stainless steel tubing and rod. They turned out okay. We will see how they hold up.

[fezzy]

Very nice indeed, I heard that Powerlines MP Parts are made from Cast Ally and the OFNA Parts CNC Ally, which explains the price difference. I have heard on quite a few occasions that the OFNA CNC Ally parts are alot stronger than that of Powerline's.

Make sure you keep us informed about them though, I hope they are good parts... Cheaper at least.

Very nice truck again, I don't like either shells... Can't STAND old american trucks.

[dmrcflyr2]

Fezzy,

I think I like the Power Wagon best. There just doesn't seem like much to choose from. What bodies do you have Fezzy?

[Mook9304]

Nice trucks I'm getting mine friday .

[ritchies rc10gt]

if you want a body that looks great on it,get the parma 61 Chevy Impala for 1/10 scale.i have it on mine and it looks mean!its about 2 inches too short for the wheel wells to line up right but it still looks good.i call it my "61 IMPALA from HELL"if i had a digi cam id post pics(i may go buy one this week)


heres a list of stuff i changed on mine so far:

aluminum rear gear box supports
rear brake installation kit(im actually gonna run dual brakes on it)
ofna failsafe
mip temp gauge
2 speed transmission with metal spur gears
Ofna Picco .21 01 comp with boost chamber
61 impala body


thats it for now.well untill next week anyways

[dmrcflyr2]

ritchies rc10gt

Did you get the Al gear box supports from Power Line Racing? If not where and how much?

How does the Dom run with a 2 speed? The track I run on was designed for 1/10th scale trucks so it is hard for me to utilize all of the power in my engine as it is.

Can you post a picture of your Impala body?

[toddzilla]

ritchie, have any problems with your 2 speed at all? i can't decide whether to stick with the slipper i put in or put the 2 speed in, i bash pretty hard and dont wanna tear anything up.

[anothermbdusted]

ok I know this has been asked befor but never truely answered.Is there a way of converting a buggy into a race truck? will the dominator wheels fit onto the 9.5?no clearence problems or rubbing.I know someone said that youd be defeating the purpose and that it would cost about 200$ but that is besides the point.can it be done and if someone has done it then can you post pictures?thanks

[ritchies rc10gt]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
ritchies rc10gt

Did you get the Al gear box supports from Power Line Racing? If not where and how much?

How does the Dom run with a 2 speed? The track I run on was designed for 1/10th scale trucks so it is hard for me to utilize all of the power in my engine as it is.

Can you post a picture of your Impala body?

i got the supports from my lhs from ofna,they were $76.00 but i got a great deal on them cuz i spent alot of money that night.i dont know how well it runs with the 2 speed yet,still breaking in the o1.but will let you guys know when im get through breakin.

if i get a digi cam this week ill post a few pics of my truck.

tod,everybody at the track with the monster pirate or dominator are running the 2 speed,they run the trucks hard and dont have any trouble.they said to use the metal spurs instead of the plastic ones

[fezzy]

You can convert any buggy intro a 'truggy' but it just requires thought and some skill on getting parts to fit.

ANYTHING can be fitted to ANYTHING on ANY RC Truck/Car, its just a matter of know-how.

As for what shells i use, well... I only have the stock Dom shell which is VERY ugly indeed, I am hopefully getting a new shell soon for it. Looking at the F350, F350 Excursion or a Chevy Suburban. Suv lids look great on Dominators/MPs

[Skribble]

Looking at the F350, F350 Excursion or a Chevy Suburban. Suv lids look great on Dominators/MPsSuburban! Too many damn Fords out there!

[Philly's Finest]

any of you guys run a 24.7 in your dom/mp's?

[dmrcflyr2]

Fezzy is right. SUV lids do look good on the Dominator. Here is the Suburban I did today.

[fezzy]

Looks nice, any more piccies?

[dmrcflyr2]

Here is one more. The color green is actually darker than my camera makes it look. I also installed the Hyper 21 8 Port from my buggy into the Dom. It should really rock now. I am now waiting for the CORRECT CVA joints to arrive. The ones that Ace sent did not have a part number on them and they were about 3/16th of an inch too long. Must have been for a buggy.

[fezzy]

Damn You, I love your truck!.

I can't wait to sink some cash into mine, BUT I'm afraid its on hold for now seeing as i've just bought a Schumacher Fusion...... Which lets face it, is going to cost qutie abit of cash to keep running!. Still, Should be enough to 'tart' up my Dominator :D

[dmrcflyr2]

Fezzy,

Yeah I know, I love it to. That is why I am trying to sell my RC10GT. I want to stick to 1/8th scale stuff. Even my Ofna MBX R2 doesn't thrill me as much as the Dominator.

Hell, I might even sell the buggy and try to save for the Titan, but the Dom holds a special place in the heart.

[anothermbdusted]

does the pipe on the dominator completely hang off the chassis?and the only thing holding it on is the pipe wire on the front of the pipe and also the coupler and header?the reason why I ask this is because i dont think there is going to be enough room on my 9.5 to put the wheels on if those side plates are there.

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

Yes, my pipe pretty much hangs over the side of the chassis. It is only mounted by the wire and coupler.

I am not sure I follow what you are doing. Are you trying to convert a Ofna 9.5 into a Dominator? You may need to remove the side plates to get the larger wheels on there, but I am not sure.

[fezzy]

The pipe is secured into a Silicone Coupler and held in place with zip ties, at the front it is braced by a sturdy metal rob and grub screw which is locared in the pipe itself. It works flawlessly in most cases, if your converting a 9.5 though i am almost posotive that you'l have to lose those dirt guards.

[anothermbdusted]

yeah i am in a way i want a dual vehicle that i can run around.the buggy so i can race at the local track and the truck to race with my friends that have tmaxxs.bodies i dont think will be a problem but the mounts might and as for the side plates yes i think they will be a problem i just need to get some wheels to see if they clear thats all unless someone else has a 9.5 and can try for me.

[anothermbdusted]

i actully looked through some post here and found what i was asking here so the only thing i need to know now is two things one being how much back space is on the dominator rims from where it mounts on the axle to the edge of the rim and also where the heck do you mount your guys batteries for the reciever can you put it in the same box as the receiver with out getting any glitching?

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted,

In both my Dominator and my MBX buggy the battery pack is in the box with the receiver and I have never had a problem.

I am not sure that I understand the measurements that you need. I did try placing my Dominator wheels on my buggy and they fit just fine. No interference problems at all. It did look a little strange though.


Fezzy, here is a picture of all of my bodies with the Dom.

[anothermbdusted]

hey dmrcflyr2 i snapped my front end suspension today because a kid in the pit and his radio and now i got the choice of fixxing it the stock way or upgrading to cnc alum.or the new mbx style suspension all for about the same cost well kind of(cnc 75$,mbx$65,Stock$20) thats if the driveshaft isnt bent.
what do youmean looks weird on the mbx?good bad what can you post a picture?of the buggy with wheels?ty

[Coconut]

The battery has a separate compartment in the radio box. Not a problem. It also makes it easyto contain the wiring;because there is a open space between them. If your asking how much off-set;it is about 11/2 inches because of the short arms.

[anothermbdusted]

hey is that 1 1/2 inch from the hub out or hub in?i need the measurements from hub in if you got them?

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

Here is what my buggy looks like with Dominator wheels. I guess it is a matter of taste, but I think it looks stupid. To really transform a buggy into a Dom you will need to get different body mounts or you will never put a truck body on it.

[dmrcflyr2]

This is what my buggy really looks like.

[anothermbdusted]

THAT IS THE BOMB!!!!!!and they dont rub on nothing at all? if not im going to order the things tonight.and as for body mounts i got it figured out already.use rpm part #80172 $5.95 for the front end attaching it to the shock tower on the front get two longer bolts for the front end tower and for the rear i measured the body from a tmaxx and i think i can use the rear wing mount if not i got a alternative method that im going to use

[Mook9304]

I got my dominator friday just the kit not the rtr and I put a paris picco xp pro buggy engine in it . All I have to say is damn it kick butt

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

No the wheels do not rub on anything. However I did not check to see what happens when the wheels are moved end to end for turning. They should clear though.

Have fun and post some pictures if you can when you are completed.

You should see what it looks like with the Dom wheels only on the rear. Maybe I send you a picture of that tomorrow.

[anothermbdusted]

well i think i got the whole thing figured out im going to order parts probably on monday morning for it from ace.
the cnc hubs ,the cnc knuckles,Mt3 chrome rims,not sure on tires yet prolines for 25$x2 or ofna for 20$x2,proline crowd pleazer or the chevy silverado crew cab.
now i just got to figure out the gear ratio.i got the stock 46*14 right now and i think afterwards ill have to goto 46*12 maybe?i just want to make it easy to change back and forth for racing it though so 4 screws and rims and clutch bell i think should do it all.I HOPE.lol

[anothermbdusted]

well for anyone that is interested in doing this little project with me or something like it ill explain how it goes ok.so far the body mounts are easier then i thought for the rear.once you take off the wing assembly in the rear you got two perfect holes for the mounts and as for the front of the buggy all you need to do is take the m4x15 screws out at the top and buy new longer ones to make up for the body mounts and your done.mount the wheels and tires and then do up the body.the fun part i think is going to be the gear ratio.who knows the .25 might have enough torque in it to leave it as is. ill let everyone know how it is going at the end of the week. and yes i have a digital camera so ill get pics up as i go.to change it back into a buggy it looks like 9 screws and a change of tires.possibly gear ratio to but i hope not.once done i think its going to be one he** of a truck possibly. got alot of adjustments possible.

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

Gear ratio should not be a problem. My Dom had a 13 tooth clutch bell and a 62 tooth spur for a 4.76 ratio. My Buggy had a 14 tooth clutch and a 51 tooth spur for a ratio of 3.64. I swapped engines and clutch bells now giving me 62 spur/14 clutch = 4.42 in Dom and 51 spur/13 clutch = 3.92

Things changed slightly but I did not notice much of a difference. The 25 will have plenty of torque, afterall that is what is in the Titan.

[MMTM]

If your converting any Ultra series buggy your basically building an Ofna Monster Blazer. Ofna makes truck body mounts for this application. Call Ace and ask them about the mounts. I looked on their site but I can't find it since they changed the page around.

*edit* I guess a pic would help. Here is a shot of the MBX I converted for my girlfried.
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/gt3.jpg

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok i just got a digi cam last night,so im gonna try to post a few pics of my dom with the 61 impala body

[ritchies rc10gt]

and another

[ritchies rc10gt]

another

[ritchies rc10gt]

last one

[anothermbdusted]

nice i like how the impala looks on that dom.pretty cool
and thank you mmtm i think i got it figured out for body mounts but if mine dont work then i will keep this in mind for future reference.again thank you and ill keep you informed as the parts com in and i make the change.now i just need to figure out a rear bumper guard.any ideas for one?

[dmrcflyr2]

MMTM

Could you post a few more pictures of your converted buggy. Maybe a top down shot.

Pretty interesting.

[anothermbdusted]

oh no i didnt start a bug did I?

[anothermbdusted]

hey whats a good tire to run for grass,asphalt,and clay almost blue grove,and loose dirt?

[MMTM]

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/mbx1.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/mbx2.jpg
And with the body

http://www.knology.net/~amy/images/mbxr2.jpg

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

Maybe you did start something. Seeing as I cannot afford another truck but I have a buggy..... Maybe it could be converted.... One never knows.

The stock 'nike' swoosh tires did not work well on my local track which is hard packed clay. I bought some of 81158 tires from Ace and they work great.

[dmrcflyr2]

Thanks MMTM.

That looks pretty nice. Maybe I will call JR at Ace and ask about the body mount kit.

[anothermbdusted]

well i just ordered everything from ace the cnc knuckles and the cnc hub carriers and the cnc radio post and mt3 split chromes and the oval pin tires hope they work good .should be here in about 2 days hope to post pictures by saturday.didn't buy body just in case that the conversion dont work and then im stuck with a truck body for nothing.at least i would be able to sell the tire and rims easy right.wish me luck and I LOVE the truck above thats exactly what I want to do.keeps the center of gravity low and still fast as he** i would imagine and agile im hoping to keep up with the tmaxxes.

[dmrcflyr2]

anothermbdusted

If all of the parts you bought work out let me know what the part numbers are. How much did you spend?

That Truggie, as Fezzy calls them, will blow T-Maxxes away. They are no match for a .21 size engine.

You know you could even drop a 2 speed into it.

[anothermbdusted]

well all the parts that i am using so far is for the 9.5 the only thing not is the body post and those are part #80172 made for the tmaxx and emaxx by rpm.$5.95 each set so 12.64 after tax and thats it other then a body and you got plenty of those it looks like. other then that i just got the cnc things for the 9.5 and thats it.i just hope the wife dont find out how much i just spent on all the parts.and yes i pay the bills not her thank god!lol now i just need to figure out if i need a new axle for the front end or not its bent but not to bad barly tell when moving at slow speed.if i do got to buy new ones i guess ill upgrade those also to the cva for front center and rear while im at it.god i need to work some major over time at work to make up for buying these things.oh well its the cost of having things you want right lol CYA

[Coconut]

Just thought I let anyone using the Unlimited engineering super shocks know. The last batch they got ofna screwed-up and gave him the standard longer 9.5 shock bodies and caps. They still have the shorter shaft that prevents the shaft end from striking the bladders. However the shocks will bottom-out before the chassis at the rear;not a good thing. I got to looking at it and because of the shorter shaftall that was needed was a shorter shock shaft rod-end than the 9.5 ord-end. I hand drilled the stock shock rod-end out to fit the 3.5mm shafts and drilled the stock bottom spring stay to also fit. With the shorter stock rod-ends the chassis now bottomsout before the shocks. OOPs- I meant to say that the shocks bottoming out before the chassis was NOT a good thing as discussed in the MP forum before.

[ritchies rc10gt]

actually the stock Dom tires work very well if you put them on backwards,when looking from the from the tread should look like a frown instead of a smile.pretty much everything here is frozen or hard packed cuz of winter,with my tires on the right way i had no traction,i turned them around and put them on backwards and now i have more traction than i need.


just dropped another $400.00 into it

i just bought a futaba3PJ super PCM radio for mine.havent installed it yet but itll be in before morning

[Philly's Finest]

dmrcflyr2:

how does that pipe work for you? more torque?

i'll need a new engine soon but unitl then i'd like to get a better pipe. any suggestions?

[anothermbdusted]

Ok please dont tell me that I am going to have to get new front shocks.will the stock ones work do you know.if i do then oh well. i was just hoping to keep it to a minumum on costs that all

[Coconut]

The front shocks and tower were one of the changes that OFNA made on the Dominator.

[Skribble]

MMTM, where'd you get those rims?

[anothermbdusted]

So if they changed the front shock tower then will it fit onto a 9.5?i dont want to change that but might have to if this little expermant dont work.who knows in feburary i plan on buying a truck any ways maybe ill just buy a dominator then i dont know yet.but i did order parts and kevin told me at ace that he didnt send my hub carrier out:( because they came out with a new design that is way better he said;) so its going to be a few more days until i get it.he also stated that anyone that has a hyper 7 or a 9.5 that he will soon be getting lundsford hinge pins and turnbuckles for them both in stock very soon.I can wait for those now if i could only find CNC arms and diff cases id have a bullet proof front end.lol

[MMTM]

http://www.knology.net/~smashandbashracing

[anothermbdusted]

rememeber i have a 9.5 that im turning into a truggy so to speak right.but thank you and will keep it in mind

[Skribble]

I meant the Aluminum rims .. on the converted Buggy. And if they're on SaBr I'm blind.

slaps MMTM J/k. :D

[dmrcflyr2]

Philly's Finest

Sorry, I haven't checked the forum in a few days. I guess the CVEC pipe works fine. I really haven't rung it out yet. I have only run the truck a few times up and down the street to retune it, and it does require retuning after installation.

I do not think that a different pipe is going to produce more torque from and engine. That is an inherent property of each engine. It might make better usage of the power and torque available by better transition and idling, but it cannot increase torque.

[Coconut]

Have to disagree from experience and reading up on tuned pipes. A tuned pipe can make a difference in torqueand topend as well as fuel mialge. That's one of the differences between on-road and off road pipes. Youmight want to check the forum at www.RBproducts.com; good discussion with Rody about their pipes there.

[anothermbdusted]

I read a post somewhere that if you want more torque then can move the pipe back further closer to the header and if you want more top end then you move it further away from the header.rcnitro has a excellent article about pipes also if your not completely satisfied with all the responses

[fezzy]

A different tuned pipe can dramatically change the powerband of your engine, you can get different pipes for different purposes. You can also tune the top end/low end by adjusting the length of the coupler, the more distance from the header/pipe the more low end you get, the less distance from the header/pipe the more top end you get.

The stock pipe leaves alot to be desired, it was one of the first things that i changed. With the stock pipe low end wasn't great, top end was pretty poor too. When i bolted on my Omega 1-Piece Polished Off-Road pipe my Dominator would wheelie! It had so much low end torque!. So much so i went from a 12t bell and 65t spur to a 14t bell and 62t spur, it made that much difference!.

[anothermbdusted]

hey what bodies will fit onto the dominator?will standpedes fit or are they way to small?the reason why i ask this is because prline makes a ford f150 for the pede and i like how it looks.or do i have to stick to what ever will fit a t-e maxx?

[rcjughead]

yeh man i think so i dont know to much about bodies but i think that you do have to stick to the standerd truck bodies. but dont trust me on that.

[ritchies rc10gt]

just incase somebody is interested in putting dual brakes on thier truck,here is a pic of mine with the dual brakes.i dont know how well itll work yet but should know in the morning as long as the snow isnt too bad.i also put aluminum gearbox supports and long drive cups in the front and have the long drive cups for the rear that i have to put in also.i also put 2 futaba S9402 servos in it and a futaba 3PJ super PCM radio

[ritchies rc10gt]

1 more

[Philly's Finest]

thanks for the info on the pipes. i looked around over at maxxtraxx and i've come to find that the rb086 seems to be the popular pipe for monsters, but it's a little more than what i wanted to spend.

i'm hoping you guys can help me out. i just got a used dom & i can't get it started because fuel is not moving through the line. i switched all the tubing but i can't even prime it. i noticed that in every pic of the hyper 21 that i've seen the valve points upward. on my carb it points down toward the chassis. could this be causing my problem?

in fact i thought all fuel valves on 2-strokes are supposed to point upward. am i wrong? any ideas?

[Coconut]

Yes,but you can move it. Really sounds like the carb is clogged. If your not familar with engines take it to a LHS. Many times RC plane shops have more experience with engines.

[dmrcflyr2]

Sorry all I still have to disagree. TORQUE of an engine is something that is designed into the engine. It cannot be increased by a tuned pipe.

Tuned pipes CAN adjust the powerband of an engine but they CANNOT increase torque. They can 'tune' or adjust how efficiently the provided torque and power of the engine are realized.

Typically tuning tuned pipes is something done more on rc aircraft pipes because they tend to be substantially longer, up to 24 to 30 inches, as do the couplers. If you think that by cutting off 1/2' off of a coupler or pipe that you can see a difference it is all in your head. Without specific dynamometer data no one will convince me of that.

That is why there are so many tuned pippes to choose from, because the ones for cars due to size are no adjustable by cutting. Many of the differences in rc car pipes is in the angles of the extrance and end of the chamber itself. That is how different pipes for cars provide different top end or low end.

And by the way I have read just about everything I can find on tuned pipes, I have for years as I was into rc planes for 14.

[fezzy]

OK Then, You can't increase the 'torque' but you can increase the low end power of a truck with a tuned pipe, same as you can adjust the high end speed of a truck with one designed for such a purpose.

Phillys Finest, You have encountered the problem i have had to live with since owning my Dom, its not a bad problem just abit annoying, It could be the same or you have a problem. Basically i can't prime my Dom by covering the stinger and pulling the the cord a few times, what i have to do is remove the pressure line and blow through there with my mouth to force the fuel round. I've sealed my backplate, replaced my lines and checked my tank... All are A-OK. Just try to start it by blowing through the pressure line, if you can't then you know that you have a problem in the carb.

[MMTM]

Skribble: lol, sorry. I wasn't thinking. I bought those rims used when I first got my MP. They are SPRW (super pirate racing wheels) from Unlimited Engineering.

*edit* on the torque issue. So you think you can't increase the power?
Thats almost like saying that an aftermarket exhaust on a 1:1 car does not increase HP and torque just b/c the motor came w/ X hp. Its not simply designed into the motor. You can adjust the power output of an RC motor just like a real car. Tuned exhaust, different carbs / restrictors, porting & polishing, etc... All these have an effect on the power output. The car does not luanch faster or pull harder down the straights just b/c you installed a new pipe... There is more power output from the motor.

[anothermbdusted]

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/tuned.asp read this link then let us know if this helps in any way

[Coconut]

I've flown RC planes for over 30 years and you get little experience into tuned pipes from that. 95% of flyers use exhaust that restrict the engine because of noise restrictions. In fact most tuned pipe use by RC flyers are taken from development of RC boaters and control-line speed. Yes;I even go back in flying before RC. Typiaclly very little has been done in use or development of tuned pipes in Rc plaves comapred to the others. But I think your choice of pipes says much more than a longer thread on your comments can.

[dmrcflyr2]

If you look at the link below you will see that this author states that Power = torque x RPM

A tuned pipe adds efficiency to the combustion process.

Engine have specific RPM ranges. This cannot be changed by a tuned pipe.

Torque is greater at lower RPM. Four stroke engines operate at much lower RPM than 2-stroke and are better source of torque.

2-stroke engines develop maximum power at higher RPM. Power output of a 2-stroke engine can be increased by increasing the RPM, leaning the engine, or by running higher nitro content of fuel.

With all of that said. No a tuned pipe does not increase the power of your engine. It makes the combustion process more efficient so that you realize more of the engines potential.

Enough said.

http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov:70/askasci/phy00/phy00260.htm

[toddzilla]

well, mcfly i see your point in that an engine from the factory, unmodified internally, is capable of X horsepower. you are stating that tuned pipes basically allow it to reach its potential or near it or whatever. The only problem with that analogy is that rear wheel horsepower is all that really matters (don't bug me with 4wd semantics please) i.e. what the vehicle actually gets to use. The end result is that tuned pipes allow your vehicle to make power across a varied range of rpms, and many times allow it to make additional power available as compared to stock.


take a stock engine from a real car, dyno test it in that configuration, then add a quality, low restriction exhaust, a high efficiency air filter, aftermarket ignition.. etc.. you're going to see one hell of a difference in power output despite not changing any "hard" parts within the assembly. these concepts are universal whether the engine weighs 5 ounces or 500 pounds. so your argument is true, but its based on semantics and not real-world results.


my .o2

[Coconut]

Reread your last statement about tuned pipe allowing you engine to realize more power. That's waht we have said. Very engine 2 cycle;four cycle is in the end limited by one thing;internal friction. This is assuming that it will holdup to the stress. Your original were that car pipes being as short(not long like airplane pipes) and did not increase power. You indicated that one pipe was as good as another therefore in talking about you pipe. Take your .21 engine and put your pipe on and tune it has best you can;then take a one-piece RB 086 pipe and I guarnatee that the RB pipe will develop more power. TorqueX RPM's equals power of course. So if a better tuned pipe allows your engine to deveop more RPMs at same torque thyen you get more power. There are tuned pipes that getboth more torque and rpms than others. The RB 063 as compared to the 086. The 086 has better torque and rpm but suffers from less fuel milage. that has been tested by RB and confirmed in the real world of racing. It's your original statement about tuned pipes in Rc cars we are talikng about and there being a difference in power between one pipe and another. About their working because they are shorter than the pipes in planes remember.

[anothermbdusted]

Hey ace decided to upgrade my package to 2nd day air and so i should get it sometime today.ill be out of town but will be home tomorrow afternoon and will let all know if the 9.5 with MT wheels work and then what needs to be done if anything.lets hope all is good.just waiting on the knuckles now but kevin was nice enough to send a stocker for the mean time until he gets the new cnc ones in and shipped off.

[Philly's Finest]

is the Hyper 4 a sg crank? i just order a standard xtm 24.7 and i need to know if it will fit?

[fezzy]

Yes its a SG Crank, If you ordered a 24.7 Everything from the Hyper should bolt right onto it.

[Philly's Finest]

yes but it's standard crankshaft and i think i needed the SG crank.

[anothermbdusted]

well it does clear the chassis with the gaurds but only gots about 1\4 inch when full lock and you got to set the trims on the laft and right so it clears the rim on the lower back part of the arm but not by much. shouldn't make that much differnce in steering i had it set for alot less when i had the buggy wheels on it and the picture shows the wheel at full lock. got more pics of the truggy if anyone wants me to post them and can take some if need be also.just ask....

[Jimr]

Don't look like a dominator to me.

[anothermbdusted]

because it isnt one it is a 9.5

[Jimr]

Then put it in the 9.5 forum, if you can find one;)

[anothermbdusted]

read my previous posts and youll learn why i have posted here ok until then dont bother typing something untill you do.

[Jimr]

I did and it still ain't a Dominator!