Kyosho Pureten Alpha 2 RTR EP Sedan+Rally

[Hypenotist]

I'm looking at these cars as a good spec class and am interested in what others experience with them has been like so far. Only things I can find wrong with the little I've read about them is that they come with coil over non-oil shocks and basic bushings to keep cost down. But I have also read that the parts will be 60%+ compatible with the GP (gas version) which comes with oil shocks standard I believe. Comments?
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/kyod81.jpg

[Hypenotist]

Oh almost forgot, If you can find a good overhead picture of the chassis that would be great since I've only seen up close on the shaft drives and body shots anywhere I've looked so far. Most reference pics have been of the first alphas with the belt drive and rear mounted motor (even the kyosho site).

[Hypenotist]

Got the Focus Rally yesterday. Spent 2+ hours cutting and applying decals, at least the wheel wells on the body come pre-cut though. Also had to install the body mounts since I think they package the kits the same for rally and street type so you have the option there. Charged up the included 1400 nicd sport pack and took it out in some dirt. The included inner body cover tray thing really helped as after running mud was caked inside the body but the electronics were dry. I should mention the included charger is crap and takes over 6+hours to charge with no peak or anything-luckily I have a peak charger and was ready to run it much sooner, but I still give them credit for adding the battery and charger in the kit as most other companies don't for RTR.

First impressions with all the stock rtr electrics was better than expected. It accelerates fast and top speed was impressive for the included motor battery combo. Metal bushings all around with the option of bearings in the future aswell. The coil non-oil shocks are a real let down though :( as the car handles fine in straight lines but when hitting bumps or turning hard it tends to bounce alot, I really think for a rally especially they should have included oil dampened shocks like on the GP version of this car.
In keeping with a spec class though I'd say oil shocks would be acceptable as these coil over spring ones could easily cost you damage by not soaking up small bumps and possibly flipping on turns (although I didn't flip once yet).
For a spec class though, with ease of setup and the $179 price with all options I'd say it's well worth the money. The included rally tires were nice aswell with a soft compound but no inserts but they are fairly low profile and might not need them anyway for this level of racing. Now talking my friends into buying one is the next step.

So on to modifications: In the near future I'm planning on finding some oil shocks to replace the stock coil over ones. Buying a good 3000mah battery and possibly trying a p2k motor after that. Then the bearings for sure. I should mention that both front and rear differentials are planetary gear style and not ball, nor is there a slipper clutch of any kind I could notice but who needs that anyway, I don't atleast.

Pics on the way.

[Hypenotist]

Pics of chassis and body on. Sort of a TC3 wannabe. I've got some hpi rally type shocks on order now.
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/bodyon.jpg
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/chassis.jpg

[Hypenotist]

More pictures of front, rear, and under chassis. Note the new addition of hpi rally shocks with longer travel-made a world of difference esp on loose gravel and over smaller jumps.
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/alphabottom.jpg
bottom
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/alphafront.jpg
front
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/alpharear.jpg
rear

[Hypenotist]

New modifications

Dremel off the rear suspension stoppers that were part of the chassis to increase suspension travel allowing the longer hpi shocks to do a better job.

http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/dremelfocus.jpg
http://www.boomspeed.com/hypenotist/befaftfocus.jpg

[Linkin Park fan]

kyosho has threaded body Teflon shocks............part#W5155


does it come with teardown instructions???

if i decide to get one how hard would it be to make a custume graphite chassis?
:confused:

[Linkin Park fan]

u said that it came with planitary gear diffs...are there any interchangeble ball diffs from other cars that would fit in this car??

:confused:

[Hypenotist]

No idea about ball diffs-only kyosho car I've owned so far.
Customs Chassis-Well if you know what your doing I'd imagine it's possible, it is basically flat except for some kickup in the front and the sides where the underbody attaches. The main thing I would be concerned about when customizing the chassis would be keeping dirt and pebbles out of the gears-some will get past the dust cover even with the stock chassis setup. Guess it depends on what sort of terrain your going to run on. If your worried about weight I'd get something like the losi rally weapon or maybe the hpi as this one is pretty heavy stock, at least I think-it's about 3.5lbs.

[Linkin Park fan]

Originally posted by Hypenotist
No idea about ball diffs-only kyosho car I've owned so far.
Customs Chassis-Well if you know what your doing I'd imagine it's possible, it is basically flat except for some kickup in the front and the sides where the underbody attaches. The main thing I would be concerned about when customizing the chassis would be keeping dirt and pebbles out of the gears-some will get past the dust cover even with the stock chassis setup. Guess it depends on what sort of terrain your going to run on. If your worried about weight I'd get something like the losi rally weapon or maybe the hpi as this one is pretty heavy stock, at least I think-it's about 3.5lbs.

the drive shaft is steel, isn't it?? to lighten it abit, try putting in an associated carbon fiber drive shaft from the FTTC3. Another weight saving is to by some gs alumminum screws.

one more thing.............what is the with? in rccaraction it says 193mm, on tower i think it says 195mm, and on the kyosho website i think it says 198mm........witch is the real length?

Thanx
:cool: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Linkin Park fan]

i noticed that there is a peice of plastic that covers the shaft. why not take it off. the tc3 donesnt have it covered so, it must not make a differance if there is a cover or not

When u eventually put in a hotter motor, try to dremel a square under the motor to increase cooling. and when u get 3000s u could probobly make battery slots also to give a little more cooling.

[Possumbot]

I think it has potential, bearings, oil shocks, v-rage, and a better motor,and it might haul on road.

[kato]

I bought my son and me cars (subaru and focus) - the first gen Pureten Alpha EP cars - belt drive.

My last car was purchased bout 10 years ago (Kyosho Rocky & Bolink Eliminator Sport) - but I'm really impressed with these cars. They aren't the tightest - suspension tends to wobble a bit, but I like Kyosho's use of Graphite impreg'd stuff rather than straight plastic.

I've been hopping them up a bit. We mainly run them on road - so that's where I've been improving - lowered suspension via sport shocks, bearings (only in the hubs) and real universal front dogbones on mine. They really go well (of course nothing like a pure race TC3/Pro3/x-ray/etc).

But lots o fun!

Here are some picks of my upgrades:

[kato]

Here's the back end (notice the turnbuckle suspension) - very needed as we wore out our first set of tires totally on the inside! Too much camber!

[kato]

one more pic:

[infinite_anthem]

I saw the First generation's for $100 at towerhobbies....the S2000, belt driven right ? I was wonderin what size motor it uses and how fast is it out of the box and if there is any hopups ?

probably buy this for my lil brother

[kato]

Here have a look at this link:

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/4wd_shootout.asp

They say the car goes about 14-15 mph. I'm not sure the the S2000 and our Imprezza and Focus are exactly the same, but it sure looks it. With ours the 540 motor was really bad - a grey can motor that looks just like a plain old vanilla Mabuchi 540! I've swapped those for some Tamiya Super Stock motors - The only other pinion I could get was a 17 tooth (original is like 20-21). The go pretty good with that motor - so the car can go pretty good, but needs a much better motor.

These are really - basic beginner cars. They are pretty tough, we haven't broken many parts, but I make sure to run in a very open parking lot, since my son is 11 and just starting out.

There aren't many hop up parts - but this is not really the kind of car that should be mod'd that much. If you really want to go fast, one of the other kits in the review might be better. But as a off-road/rally car this one is pretty good.

[fabolousRC]

S2000

is pretty decent out of the box. If you want boost get 3000mAh battery and definitely bearings set. Get the battery at radio shack (get this..$34.95, can't get any better than that) and the bearings when you purchase your car from Tower. Next up, get a decent Machine Wound Motor (it's for your brother man...anything that comes with bearings and decent turn should be enough for him to have fun with). The ESC will handle up to 17T motor. My sister boyfriend's car had a SpeedGem2 Sapphire 17T single installed (it was mine and I gave it to him) and we run it without overheating the ESC. That motor is going to worn the belt pretty quickly though. The shocks..well..it's only a shaft that goes through a body that looks like a shock. Basically it's nothing. you might want to check out those Kyosho plastic oil-over-shock that sells about $20 a pair. If I'm not mistaken, Kyosho also sells sway bars option for that car and ask Kato on which manufacturer that sells a camber kit for Alpha. If you don't want your little brother to mess around with electronics while running through water, also get the under the body cover which sell under $10. The stock tires are pretty think (that's you run them quickly, Kato). For tires, you want to get Duratrax replacement for Street Force GP either the slicks or the radials depends which ever you prefer the best. They have decent traction and they're $8 per 4 and comes with some cheap inner sponges.

[kato]

I know you are asking about the Kyosho cars, but I've been asking questions in the OB4 electric in the OB4 International thread. This looks like a really good car - and the RTR package is $159! (at ultimate hobbies - its >$250 at Tower!)

The RTR package isn't as complete - no battery or charger, but it does come with a radio and ESC.

I've ordered two as upgrades for my son and myself.

You might consider spending a bit more and get a better car - people in that thread have been comparing the car to full race cars such as the TC3!

[Jerkorz]

I have an original p10 s2000 (belt drive). I want to get a stock motor for the car, prob a P2k Pro. My question is regarding gearing for the car... I only have the pinion that came with the car, I know I will need to re-gear the car for the new motor, but don't really know where to start. 17t, 18t? Which way (higher number of teeth, or lower) should I go for torque, and which way for speed? Thanks alot in advance for any help you may be able to give me!

[kato]

Jerkorz,

I run a Tamiya Super Stock motor rated at 28k RPMs no load at 7.2 v. I think the p2k is a little higher RPM (does anyone here know?) If so, you will probably want to start with a 17 and go from there. It really is a trial and error thing.

Some general rules (maybe someone else can verify these):

1) the higher the RPM rating on the motor, the less Torque - therefore, you must use a lower numeric pinion gear to achieve a higher overall gear ratio

2) the heavier the car, the lower the gear as well, as you need the mechanical advantage you get from the gearing

3) The tighter the track, the better it is to have a smaller gear, as acceleration is more important. On a longer track, you might need the top end speed, but again balance is more important

4) Beginners (I think) are better off gearing with smaller pinions, giving more acceleration. As you learn to drive smoother and smoother - and carry more speed with you around the track, then you are less dependant on the raw acceleration that you get with a smaller pinion

those are just some thoughts - I find that the 17t and my motor accelerate very quickly (I'm still a beginner too - at racing anyway, but I've been bashing round for some time) probably tops out in about 15-20 feet. I've been teaching my son (and myself) to work on twisty short tracks, trying to learn to drive smooth and carry as much speed from each transition. On a long track, I might go 18 or 19t, but I can't find anyplace to get those to try it out.


OH - this is very important. Even though the P10 Alpha says it is a 48pitch gear, it appears to be some sort of odd size. I tried an 18t 48pitch and it ate the idler gear in the rear gearbox. Stick with the Kyosho part numbers W017/W018/W019 I think. Have fun!

[fabolousRC]

Kato..I think Kyosho meant 48 Pitch metric size not american standard..that's why the regular 48 pitch almost destroyed your gearbox. See if you can use Tamiya pinion gears for that car. I haven't tried on mine yet (as soon as I can get a new one)

[DCLXVI]

So, is this a good car? I'm seriously thinking of getting one as a "spare car" and/or winter car as I'm currently running a nitro stadium truck...

The one I'm getting is a PureTen Alpha 2 Subaru Ipreza KIT, I think that the kit comes with a MSC and a 20 turn motor, no battery, servos or charger... and that is about 1400 SEK thats like $130...thats as cheap as I can get...

/DCLXVI

[nici]

it cant be that bad paying 130€ for that car, i paid 230€ for my tb-01 totally stock. i guess i cant really say rc is a cheap hobby over here :D

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by nici
it cant be that bad paying 130€ for that car, i paid 230€ for my tb-01 totally stock. i guess i cant really say rc is a cheap hobby over here :D

I certainly isn't, but as cheap as possible...
After I've had this car (PT A2) I'm gonna buy a Traxxas Bandit from TowerHobbies (thats about $65 last time I checked)...

/DCLXVI

[tl01boi]

i was wondering wats the top speed for the purten alpha 2 ready set

[holshotracer]

i just order a gen 1 S2000 RTR for $79 through towers the deal is good to Dec. 31. i bought it to turn into a rally for winter.

[fabolousRC]

All you need to do is to get the rally tires and the clear cover to complete it. You can also put latex balloon with its half of the body cutoff to cover the motor from the ice. Zip tie the latex that's closer to the motor plate and the one that covers the wirings. Do not forget to buy velcros because the clear cover does not come with velcro adhesive in it.

[holshotracer]

i just got it so after i get done here im oging to run it in our base ment.

[holshotracer]

i put some duratraxs 3 inch shocks on it with losi springs and cut off the stops. then i took the stock tires and a cut off wheel in a dremel and made rally tires. i ran it in the snow and the tires worked. it also jumps good.:D

[DCLXVI]

holshot : do you have any pics?

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

hey DCLXVI
i will try tomorrow, right now i,m using a losi bronco body so it looks like a pro stadium truck. i like the way it looks when jumping.

[DCLXVI]

I'll get one in a few hours...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Got it...in the process of putting it together...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Got it, built it, tried it, liked it...

Second run (third battery) I broke the front bumper in half... :(

/DCLXVI

www.nitro-rc.has.it

[holshotracer]

i had to take my diffs a part because the out drives were blinging on the housing. this freed up the drivetrain. also team losi pinions work with the s2000

[DCLXVI]

Hey, holeshotracer...does your front diff look lite there is a crack going straigth across it? I was wondering if I sould bother taking it apart to check if there is a crack but since I won't have enough money to repair it it might aswell just sit there as long as everything works... :)

/DCLXVI

Oh, I have come up with a paint scheme for my subary body...
Sould I paint the body like this?

[holshotracer]

hey DCLXVI
what did u hit to brake the bumper. i broke the steering nuckle yesterday but CA fixed that problem. i also used fiblerglass cloth to renforce it. my diff din,t have any cracks. as for the body i kind of printed a civic like that. the hood and fender flares were charcol and the rest was acryl chage blue. or u shold paint it life Tim oneils class n subaru.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by holshotracer
hey DCLXVI
what did u hit to brake the bumper. i broke the steering nuckle yesterday but CA fixed that problem. i also used fiblerglass cloth to renforce it. my diff din,t have any cracks. as for the body i kind of printed a civic like that. the hood and fender flares were charcol and the rest was acryl chage blue. or u shold paint it life Tim oneils class n subaru.

To brake the bumper...I was driving in a parking garage, where there was a two concrete slabs that weren't alingned properly but was evened out with tar or simmilar...problem was that the part where I dicided to go wasn't evened out... so I hit the inch high "bump"... "bumper" in two peices...

About the front diff housing... I looked at it today and that was just flush (gr?) from the molding process...

Anyway I'm running Sanyo 3000 mHA accs with the car, I have two of them and they last for about 15-30 min depending on how hard I drive... I ran for about 25-30 mins today during a walk home from my parents house...

BTW, I have "snowproofed" my ESC and my reciever because running in snow are so fun!

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i made a cover out of a buggy body and used duct tape to hold it on. no mud got to the speed contorl and reciver. plus it was cheap i had both. i just just done painting my rims a blood red.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by holshotracer
i made a cover out of a buggy body and used duct tape to hold it on. no mud got to the speed contorl and reciver. plus it was cheap i had both. i just just done painting my rims a blood red.

I heard that you can dye plastic parts such as the rims etc...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

u can my dad did it before but i was messing around mixing paint and the color that came out i liked so i painted the wheels. also it covered up a crack in one of then. i get about 10 to 15 min of run time with old 3000s and a 19 speed gem and a 21 tooth pinion and driving hard.:D

[holshotracer]

is there a thing of having to much fun with a rally:D we just just fresh power last night so i got home from school and fixed the jump in the front yard. that wasn't the best part through our road was icy so i would get the car going then drift the rear end into the power so sweet roost.

[DCLXVI]

I started masking my subaru body as I depiced above...
I just have to find a place to paint it at...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i think that my 19 turn speed gem is about to die and its what i got in there now. i foung out the paths in our back yard make a good rally course.

[holshotracer]

kato
are the univesals press fit as in the manual. also the ball diff out of a old Ultimate buggy will fit in a gen. 1 pure ten.

[DCLXVI]

holeshot: Did you buy the kit or the RTR?

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i bought it rtr for $79. i was looking in old RC car actions and it was $174 when it first came out and it didn't come a battery or charger.

[holshotracer]

any one get alumium steering hnuckles:confused: :confused:
i broke both of then and glued them back together and broke them again.

[holshotracer]

i got knuckle for a TC# and got them to fit and they gave me more steering. DCLXVI did u get that body painted yet?

[DCLXVI]

Almost, I think I'll finish it this weekend...won't be that good though, I messed the masking up...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i want to get a new body soon, my bronco is starting to crack, so i was ralling with the S2000 so its getting beat up.:D

[DCLXVI]

Ok.

I have painted my Subaru body, I didn't do very well...the masking tape leaked :(

I'll post some pics as soon as I can...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

hey its a rally body so it probly look like a full scale rally hardly they finish with a staight body panal and if they do they're lucky.

[holshotracer]

i just got done making a shock tower for the front to give me more tuning.

[Bsmooth]

How do those stock rally tires hook up?

[DCLXVI]

How do those stock rally tires hook up?

Quite good on uneven surfacese (sp?) but not to good on really loose or really hard/firm terrain...

/DCLXCI

[Cychalen]

I could not find a thread more appropriate than this one to post my question. Sorry if it is off topic.
Is this kit worth the price? I am not going to race it. I am not familiar with Kyosho cars.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT226&P=0
I see a nitro car in the picture. Does it have the same chassis? Are the parts compatible?
Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Cychalen
I could not find a thread more appropriate than this one to post my question. Sorry if it is off topic.
Is this kit worth the price? I am not going to race it. I am not familiar with Kyosho cars.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT226&P=0
I see a nitro car in the picture. Does it have the same chassis? Are the parts compatible?
Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

I paid around 450 USD for the kit, 2 3000 mhA batterys, a charger, HiTec SP-520+ ESC and a spare body + paint

But since I live in Sweden and I'm lycky if I can find R/C gear here that are even 25% more than Tower...450 USD would be more like 200-300 USD from Tower...

I'm happy with the Elec kit...probably not a racer, but as a bashing car it is fun...
As far as parts compability goes, it seems like both cars are using almost all the parts exept for the chassi...EP = plastic and GP = alu...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Here are two pics from Kyosho Japan...

[Cychalen]

DCLXVI. Thanks for your help.
Tower says that EP features 2mm Thick Aluminum Chassis and Upper Deck. It also looks like aluminum in the picture. Is this a special chassis?

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Cychalen
DCLXVI. Thanks for your help.
Tower says that EP features 2mm Thick Aluminum Chassis and Upper Deck. It also looks like aluminum in the picture. Is this a special chassis?

Sorry, didn't see that your link was for a completly different car...

I have no clue about that car, but I know that Kyosho is supposed to make cars of exelent quality, mabey not the best performers though!

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

The spider seems to share some of the parts with the EPA2... the front "bumper" and probably the diffs...I can't get a better pic so I can't be sure...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

they are tough cars the only thing that i broke was the knuckle but it was cold outside. and mine as been through a lot in the short time that i have had it. the radio is pretty good too.

[Cychalen]

Thank you all for helping. ;)

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by holshotracer
they are tough cars the only thing that i broke was the knuckle but it was cold outside. and mine as been through a lot in the short time that i have had it. the radio is pretty good too.

Only thing I've managed to break are the bumper...but I will not replace that as it hinders the car in terrain...

It's almost a feet of snow on the ground and it's getting light earlier and earlier here, to bad I'm more sick right now that I have been for about 10 years...(that does not mean much as I'm rarely sick, nor usualy very sick...)...

Thank you all for helping.

Youre welcome...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

there is to much fluffy snow. the snow we had got hard which made for a lot of sliding now theres about to inches of fluff on top so the car gets stuck a lot.

[holshotracer]

just finished making a rear shock tower for more adjustment for the shocks.

[DCLXVI]

Sound great...I need to get oil shocks and adj. linkage...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

DCLXVI
if u want to keep it as a rally get some Duratrax 3 inch gold ones they are a little bit long but spacers help that. the stock "shocks" pogo so bad thats why i got rid of them soon as i could.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by holshotracer
DCLXVI
if u want to keep it as a rally get some Duratrax 3 inch gold ones they are a little bit long but spacers help that. the stock "shocks" pogo so bad thats why i got rid of them soon as i could.

I'm in Sweden so I can't get hold of duratrax gear...I'll have to get Kyosho or some other ones...
I know I could order from Tower, but the postage would be higher than if I buy some other shocks here...
I'll still have to order some liquid masking from Tower, mabey I'll do both at the same time...question is how long can I live with the pogo-sticks...?

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

mine didn't make it one night, i jumped in our basement and then the duratrax when on. u could try and put some heavy grease on the shaft to slow the pogoing.

[DCLXVI]

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/small/IMG_056.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/small/IMG_059.jpg

The Subaru body I was talking about earlier...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i guess all of the mud that i when though got to my ball diff, so i put the stock gear diff back in. i decided to put in a 7 cell pack. i took off the battery door and the pack stayed in by found out that the pack is dead compley:(

[davespencer]

Hey doesent Kyoshyo make soem sport shocks that are oil filled i saw some that were collord yellow and stuff and looked cheasy but if they are the same as whats on my ultima they work really well. Hpoe that someone can find them and they work good for you.

also i have a question what hop up has made the biggest difference in your car?


the fish is back

[DCLXVI]

also i have a question what hop up has made the biggest difference in your car?

I havent installed any yet...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

tower hobbies carrys them so check out their site.
the best hop up would be the duratrax shocks. also putting a locked diff in the rear.

[DCLXVI]

I prefer to put some heavy oil/grease in my diffs compared to using a locked one... I have 3000w in there now (both front and rear) but I will probably move up to about 8-9000w...

TowerHobbies are on the wrong side of the Atlantic for me but if you are in north america then...

/DCLXVI

[davespencer]

hey mine will be here ina few hours i will probly take alot fo pictures and stuff so that i can show you all i am getting the focus with the esc and everythign so that should be nice this is my first 1/10 electrick so im looking forward to it. im also looking forward to running it in the snow dont worry i will cover things up i use cut off finger tips from gloves and put one on from both sides so that their is still room for the wires to get out the top it works good. I'll also be takeing the shocks off to measure them becuse the sport shocks that Kyosho has at tower seem to be pretty good and itf they are te same as what is on my ultima their great ill let you guys know whene i get them but that will probly be a moth or more down the road.well i hope to here from you all soon rally on

[holshotracer]

there are part # in the manual so you just get those. i was thinking of ordering the sport shock but i found some duratrax that we had.

[davespencer]

wow this car is fun i got it on the 5th and it is great!!! it seems that the quality is excetional for what you pay witch is always a suprise in this hobby. anyhow i wanted to ask anyone if they knew if these shocks will work on this car if so that would be a really cheep way to get shocks on it, here is the link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV295&P=7
i know their not metal but their good shocks i have some like them on my ultima i jest want to know if they fit.
also does anyone here know if anyone makes hop up parts for this car or do i need to start modding things from other cars thanks for the help.

[davespencer]

I was looking at my chassis the other day and i noticed that it would be really easy to mount dual shocks on the rear anyone tried this and would it be worth it to spend an extra 12 dollers to do it? although it would bring a big cool factor would it be funtional or bring any performance?

[holshotracer]

the only hop ups that i have is custom shock towers and TC3 hub carrier because i broke the stock ones. really i don't think that you need two more shocks because it would add more weight.

[davespencer]

well i have broke two things so far one was my servo saver and i had another and then today i droped it down the stairs on accedent and broke the front wheel carryier oh well its only 2.50 or somethign but it is unfortunete cuz i was gon to take it to show my brothers today. i think that i will be removeing the battery holder soon and replaceing it with a velcro strap that should savev on some weight and i think i will be makeing some shock holders soon and installing ball bearings. that should keep me bussy for a while and also give me a little more speed.my next big project with it will be replaceing the middle brace to save on weight and space also make it a little stronger ill have pics as soon as i get all this done any more ideas let meknow also f i wanted to take it on the street for some races what do i need?
another question has anyone removed the suspension stops that are on the chassis?

[DCLXVI]

If you want to remove the shock travel limiter you have to use real shocks...at least with the pogo sticks that I have...

[davespencer]

are all touring rims the same and are all the hex wheel adapters the same?

[holshotracer]

i removed the stops and it gives a lot more down travel but then u will have to get differet shocks. the hexs are 12 millimeter so regauar wheels will fit, one in a while i put on pro-line wallbash.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hey guys! i got a p10 1st gen in jan. those pics are great. I use my car for drifting and racing. I set camber to like -3 degrees and cars awesome. does anyone kno where i can get turnbuckles for this car? i checked out tower but i didnt find much. i have a silver s2000 drifter body on it right now. I have a skyline body, 10t motor, duratrax esc, and hpi tires with tamiya 6spoke on da way :D. i have a 25T pinion on it right now:eek: which isnt very smart but it reaches about 16mph. when im done with it i hope to get around 30mph. :| glad to see sum kyosho peeps in this forum

[DCLXVI]

those pics are great

Check out my WWW for more...


/DCLXVI

[R3VoLuTiOn]

awesome pics dude. i have 1st gen but i think a lot of the parts work together. Do u know where i can get turnbuckles for the car?

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
awesome pics dude. i have 1st gen but i think a lot of the parts work together. Do u know where i can get turnbuckles for the car?

Since I live closer to Russia than Canada I really don't know...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Tried this?

http://www.gpmd.com/cgi-bin/wc569010ap.pgm?V=KYO

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

try going to a hobby shop and see what they have for other cars you may be able to use different brand. on my gen 1 i used turn buckles off a ultima that i cut down and traxxas ball ends which snap on the stock kyosho pillow balls

[Henry G]

I have a pureten 1 car. It has the belt driven 4wd tranny. Yesteday when I was driving it around, It wasn't going very fast. I brought it in. When I gunned it the wheels continued to spin after I let off the gas, in expception of the left rear wheel. It stopped before the others. I took the hub off of the left tire, cleaned it out, and it didn't work. When I twist the wheels, it feels like there is a glitch, I have to turn harder once every revolution. I'm in the process of taking apart the rear bulkhead to see if I got a pebble in the gears or something. Please help! :confused: :confused: :confused:

[DCLXVI]

Try and dissassamble it fist, then if you do not suceed in finding the fault, we may try and hekp you...

/DCLXVI

[R3VoLuTiOn]

i can help u real easy.. Like he said, just take apart that section and put some grease in there. I had that problem the first week i got mine. i was lazy so i used some spray to get out particles then i just used wd40(dunno if its good or not) and it ran fine after. OH YEAH! I got my duratrax 8T esc on it now, still waiting for the 10T Motor, Hpi Advans, and tamiya 6spokes. :) good luck cleaning ur car buddy and dont forget to grease up that rear diff good...otherwise itll happen in there (Y)

[holshotracer]

heres mine with a losi bronco body

[R3VoLuTiOn]

raced my car today in alley with 10T motor, broke front right steering hub :eek: but i went up to like 50+km so im happy

[Henry G]

Well, I got tired of unscrewing stuff, so I put it back together, sprayed the crud outta my hubs where the dogbones meet the chassis, and it works pretty well.

Do you guys know if I can convert my Gen 1 to a gen 2? Would it go any faster if I did? So, is this car race worthy?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

it could be race worthy but nothing compared to how tc3s and tamiya ta03 and ups will handle..given how these cars are mainly for bashing id doubt these would beat them.........but iono never been to a track yet...need more mods on mine......im thinkin bearings....17t pinion.....8T p-94...MAYBE an mx3 with the 3rd channel doin sumthin good...

[Henry G]

Originally posted by holshotracer
i put some duratraxs 3 inch shocks on it with losi springs and cut off the stops. then i took the stock tires and a cut off wheel in a dremel and made rally tires. i ran it in the snow and the tires worked. it also jumps good.:D

Hey man, where do ya get those, and how much do those cost? I'd like to jump mine. I'm getting kinda tired of just driving around in the street.:o

[DCLXVI]

Atlast I changed my rear pogos for shocks...problem was I didn't have any short shocks (hence only rear changed) but I worked around that by mounting the upper end on the upper shocktower mounting screws with spacers left over from my TTR DT-10... works great...to bad I couldn't do the same with the front...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

henry g
i got mine through towers for $20 for a pair. also try lhs. i switched the bottoms for the stock kyosho. i'm using losi buggy spring all around. you may have to use spacers because i modiflyed my hub carriers for full down travel.

[Henry G]

thanx for the help with the suspension. Today I was driving it on the sidewalk when i edged off and a hit clump of grass. I almost rolled it.:)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

lets bring this forum alive again....... my cars now a drifter, 10t motor, 8t esc, hpi tires, and i go around 40km which is bad but the motor good for the price (trinity caliber). I go bashing in my alley, broke fron steering hub -$3, scratched body -$0.05 but other than that these little cars are great. I cant wait till i go to the local track and compete :D, wont win but ill have a great time :)

[Henry G]

Just wonering, do you guys use foam inserts?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

for my drifting set of taped tires no......... for my hpi advan i dont think so.....performs fine i dont really need em

[holshotracer]

i run foam in all of my cars. most of my tires come with them so i put them in. on my rally i cut down a set for buggy tires and use them.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

if i got competitive and stuff, yea i would start puttin foams, but id prolly just buy foam tires for the track lol

[DCLXVI]

IMHO the tires are to small for me to even bother thinking about using foams...but since I use the car more as a "spare" I have really no special requirments...

BTW, I'm going rockclimbing tomorrow... :)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

THIS THREAD IS SO DEAD!!! CMON WHERE ARE ALL THE ALPHA OWNERS OUT THERE?! This suxors..

[holshotracer]

i've been working on my other cars so i've hasn't spend much time on mine, i did run it last week.

[DCLXVI]

You guys would be surprised how good the PTA2 performed amongst the cliffs and rocks...check it out I made a video...(WWW below, videos -> PTA2)

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i tried rock crawling before but the rocks were about two times bigger that the car so is was lauching the car up them.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

my chassis is already starting to crack so ill grab a camera and go nuts when its about to bust and post it for u guys to see. I mean, cmon, the chassis is like only $20 so i can afford more bashing...im trying to decide wut car to get next tho....ta04, hpi electric.......:confused:

[DCLXVI]

Revolution : That sounds fun! Just Do It! ;)

[holshotracer]

i'm thinking of taking my shocks of of my RS4 mini and bolting the on my rally and try to drift it.

[Henry G]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
for my drifting set of taped tires no......... for my hpi advan i dont think so.....performs fine i dont really need em
So, what's your setup for drifting on this car? I tried electrical tape on my tires. It's bone stock. Do I need a new motor? Rubber? I tried putting cooking oil on the tape. (They suggested to do it on the drifting thread). It burnt off in about 30 seconds of doughnuts:rolleyes:

[R3VoLuTiOn]

u should come to the everything drift forum, your questions can be answered there. I have non adjustable, well basically everything. No camber adj, shock adj, toe in adj. All i did was tape my tires with scotch tape fully on the contact patch for the back, and the inside half for the front. Your car should be 4wd otherwise my setup would be wrong for u. As for camber i would say i have -2 degrees in the front and 0 in the back.:cool:

[Henry G]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
u should come to the everything drift forum, your questions can be answered there. I have non adjustable, well basically everything. No camber adj, shock adj, toe in adj. All i did was tape my tires with scotch tape fully on the contact patch for the back, and the inside half for the front. Your car should be 4wd otherwise my setup would be wrong for u. As for camber i would say i have -2 degrees in the front and 0 in the back.:cool:
You can set the Camber on these cars? I have a gen 1 rally. I have visited the drifting forum. That's where I learned about drifting. I asked a few questions there, and followed the advice that they gave. What engine are you running on your car revolution? Does anyone have a particular motor that they prefer for bashing around with? I'm getting tired of the stock X-speed.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

LOL, you would be better off not to follow me.

-1st gen alpha p10
-stock pinion with option 25T pinion
-8T ESC
-10/2 Trinity Caliber Motor
-Tape on All four : all on back 2 tires, inside half of front tires
-3000mah batt :way overcharged

.no u cannot unless if u cut open the arms and drill holes so u can make custom turnbuckles. But judging from the way the camber looks with the stock setup id say you can have anywhere from -0.5 to -2 degrees of camber in the front. Also forget buying new oil filled shocks or anything, all you have to do is buy stiffer springs and put em in. I dont see the point in maxing out an rtr that sells for $100. Then again, i did buy an $75 ESC......

[Henry G]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn

-3000mah batt :way overcharged

What happens when ya overcharge batteries? Just curious.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

overcharge batt : explode or leak, none yet tho :)

[Henry G]

Hey guys, Well, today I got a 20 turn traxas stinger and am borrowing a rooster ESC. WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!! I never realized how slow the stock X-speed was until I got a new motor! It's like a whole new car! My buddy wants to put his 15 turn P-94. I think he's nuts for wanting to put it in a gen 1 rally. Are they too powerful? Next on the list: New shocks! I wanna go jumping!
Revo: has you chassis gone south on ya yet?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

uh, im guessing u mean dmg. Well its all scratched up from my rally expedition the past week but other than that its fine. And i recommend u put the p94 in to go nuts and since im gonna put a kr 8t in mine soon id like to kno the diff....im on a caliber 10/2 right now and it feels like 24ish mph, so ill have to wait for 8t kr

[holshotracer]

don't you guys with the gen 1s have a problem with the belt skipping with hotter motors. i can hear mine with only a 19 turn motor.

[Henry G]

my gen-1 hasn't ever skipped. I've got a 20 turn in it. So, I hope you guys you could help me. Well here's my setup: Novak rooster reversable esc, traxxas stinger 20 turn motor, 1500 shark pack. I've run this setup for about 2 runs. Ever since then I can't get more than about 2 minutes of run time. My battery is about 4 to 6 months old and is used about 2-3 times per week. Is it failing just out of coincedence? Or is something wrong with my setup?:confused: :confused:

[R3VoLuTiOn]

nope, i had no belt skipping, but then i went up on the right two wheels, then i heard squeak. the right rear dogbone busted, all bent and black paint fell off. no worries, i used the dogbone from front and now its a 2wd racer. hella fast. try the 2wd : take out front dogbones, take out belt:)

[Henry G]

Hey guys, do ya know what the tension rating is on the gen 1 stock springs? They are black. They are total mush! What springs do you guys use on your cars?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

stock, but i moved the place ment a bit more on the bottow (3 holes to put shock end, i used furthest out) so it seems stiffer and wider :D

[holshotracer]

i'm going to get some pics tomorrow of mine set up for drifting. i have to get new brushes for the motor.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

havent changed my brushes since i got the motor......20+ runs :D

[holshotracer]

well no go on the pics our camra broke and i got bored so i changed it to a pro studium truck with tires off of a tamiya hi-lux. so now it looks like tamiya f150.

[Henry G]

These are tough little cars! I've never taken mine jumping, so I decided to try. I cart wheeled it about 3 times, and it kept on driving. I rolled it on it's top about 2 or 3 times, and it keeps going! Does anyone know if it'd be suicide to strap in a 15 turn p-94?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hell i ahve a 10t caliber in there. oh and watch out for the front hubs where the shaft connects to from teh gearbox. thats whut i broke. (ca glue solves all). im getting an 8t kr to strap in there later. take out the belt and the front dogbones ull go faster! no these things seem usual, not too durable but htey dont crack instanly either. My chassis is starting to crack tho :D time to get a buggy for bashing

[holshotracer]

i made some new shock towers to lay down the shocks and got a lot more travel. jumped it hard and all it did was beat up the bumper.:D

[R3VoLuTiOn]

put a 10t in there and jump it off ur roof. hella fun

[Henry G]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
time to get a buggy for bashing
I was thinking that too. I'm trying to sell my car right now so I can get a e-pede or a used B3 or something. Well, I'll have to call up my bud and have him bring his p-94 with him:D :D :D

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im either getting a b4, or a ta04-r/ trf

[Henry G]

ahhhhhhhhhh the B4 (drooling) Man, this thread is totally dead! Maybe it's because people are too embarrassed to admit that they have a p-10! (I have a gen-1!) I'm trying to sell it, but no one seem really interested.:(

[holshotracer]

yesterday when i got done running mine i had to leave it out in our garage because there was so much mud i wish that our camra still worked to show you guys.:D

[DCLXVI]

I've still got mine...I have been running my nitro truck mostly though...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

i think that people think that they are entry level and only resriceted to first time owners. i bought mine with the intention of moddifieing it in to a rally car and now its a pro stadium ten. once you change the stocks and the motor there a fun car to run and will take a beating.;)

[DCLXVI]

I still haven't broken anything except that worthless front "bumper" witch I haven't replaced anyhow... (I used a pice of hose witch I zip-tied to protec the chassi)...

/DCLXVI

[holshotracer]

my bumper gets used a lot i think thats why i haven't broke anything else and it helps hold up the front of my body.

[DCLXVI]

Problem are that the bumper are to long/straight so it limits the terrain tackling capabliltys...(check the video on my page and you'll understand where I'm doing with mine ;) )

/DCLXVI

[Henry G]

So, do you guys run your pureten rallies without the bumpers on? Hmmmmm..... I'll try that.

[Henry G]

I was getting my car ready to go out today when I pulled it towards me backwards with the rear wheels off of the ground and with the front wheels on the ground. The left rear wheel didn't turn at all, or when it did it went really slowly. The right wheel turned just fine. BTW, I checked, and I have a dogbone in the left wheel. I've noticed my performance has been suffering lately. Could this be why?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

spray sum grease or wd40 in there for temporary help. itll go fine, but after take out the hub, shaft, gear diff and check for obstruction. all alphas seem to do this after a few runs.

[Henry G]

So, I have to take the gear diff apart? I have a gen 1 and you have to take the ENTIRE rear bulkhead apart just to get in to the gears! When I twist my rear left wheel there is a little gold right that looks like it wobbles a little bit. Is that my bushing? I sprayed the crud out of it with some wd40 and it seems to make it run a lot smoother. Thanks for the help revo. I think I may sell it this summer to get some money for an e-pede or something more off-road worthy that is easier to get to run than my gt+! I still haven't got it running!:mad:

[Henry G]

Well, today I got bored so I converted my car to a front wheel drive. To say the least, it didn't do very well. If I gunned the engine the front wheels'd spin like mad until they found some traction and take off. Whenever I got into some gravel, my front end would bounce up and down like crazy. It was pretty funny. How do you clean out where the dogbones meet the whels? If I twist it I can feel a little grit in there. I'm considering taking out the belt and dogbones and just running rear wheel drive 'cause I mainly run it in the street anyhow. Today as I was running it in 4wd, it was going up my street as the battery was dying. Just at the same moment a car drove down the street! My car died, and the full sized one drove over the top of it between its wheels! My heart skipped a beat! I thought I was gonna lose it!
-Happy driving!

[holshotracer]

that one thing that i haven't had a prob. with that my cars haven't been ran over by a full size cars.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

WHY GOD WHY!!! why were u so close to the street anyway?!

[holshotracer]

R3VoLuTion
how many teeth are you useing with your mod motor? i think that i'm going to put in my 12 turn.

[Henry G]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
WHY GOD WHY!!! why were u so close to the street anyway?!
Chill out! I drive in the street! The red line is the freeway. The black lines are the roads in my neighborhood. I drive where the red square is. There is almost no traffic where I live. I don't have to worry (much). i've been driving it there for like a year, and that's been my first incident.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

Originally posted by holshotracer
R3VoLuTion
how many teeth are you useing with your mod motor? i think that i'm going to put in my 12 turn.

stock pinion :D i have a 25t too :D but thats 5 over stock and i dont wanna fry my motor just yet. im gettin around 50km

[holshotracer]

thanks i probly change it later.

[Mi-Mix]

hi all
i have alpha 2, and i want to change somethin :)
First of all - bearings (i have 4 now, 12 more on da way from tower)
next, i've ordered robinson racing purple 35t pinion. I think this will improve accel (this pinion is lighter from kyosho's pinions) and speed (lower gear ratio)
i've also ordered yokomo 10-spoke white rims with duratrax street force radials.
Now i'm gonna order oil shocks, turnbuckles and maybe aluminium main shaft. My question is - will these parts fit my alpha 2:?

shocks:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=lxahm7&FVPROFIL=++

shaft: (if the lenght is ok, i'll use metal joint instead of this silver connector) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXBMK8&P=7 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMK8&P=7)

i dunno which turnbuckles will fit. help me :)
(was thinkin bout this) http://http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ84&P=7

[DCLXVI]

I haven't raced so I'm not really a hop-up freak but I can't help thinking that the small gain in lowered weight in changing the pinion to a 35T increases the accelration (if it's not a 35T on there already? Can't remember...)...

The shocks sould works...order two if you haven't orderd it already because if it won't fit in the front you can fit them in the back as it is possible to fit longer shocks there...

/DCLXVI

[Mi-Mix]

Now i have 75t spur and 33t pinion (7.64)
after modification will be 7.20
I think that accel will increase because engine won't have to use so much power to rotate lightweight aluminium pinion as heavy, metal kyosho pinion.

i know that's not a huge difrence, but i've also ordered ball bearinings, so the difrence should be seen.

I think i will order 4 of these oil shocks in one turn because i'm from poland and i don't want to wait month for package (u, know it's a bit frustrating :) )


(sorry about my english if i made a mistake, i'm still learnin :D i hope u understanded what i wrote)

[DCLXVI]

Ok...I see your ordering problem and I understand it to...I'm from Sweden... :D

[R3VoLuTiOn]

change motor

[Henry G]

How do you guys think a speed gem 2 17x2 would perform in my gen 1? How many teeth would I need in my pinion gear?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

doesnt really matter, i would get a 17t pinion or wutever works for u without overheating the motor. just dont use a metal pinion. I used that metal pinion with a 10T Double and it ate away at the gears in the gearbox.
i would go for an even hotter motor, but im guessin ur usin the stock esc? 17 is the lowest ive ever heard that esc workin with, without blowin.

[Henry G]

Revo, I will be getting a NOvak Explorer II. The limit is 15 turns. I started a thread on the electric forum about which motor to use. They suggested to look in the 17-19 turn range for bashing. Should I go down to the 15 turn limit? I want to get descent run time. That's why I want to go with the 17 turn. I'm open to any and all suggestions. I haven't placed my order yet.
thanks for all of the help.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

hey man, sure id like to help u out.

lets see..

if your anything like me and crave for absolute speed i would go with a cheap 15 turn motor. so you wouldnt have to worry too much about maintenance. My 9t speedgems pro is a biatch.

you could save more money by buying a good fast stock motor.. say the monster stock or a chamelion 19T. Because the stock esc can handly down to 17. But if u have the older version which is the msc, buying an esc would be needed. Good Luck man, i luv these cars, nice and fast. Just need to add bearings to my maxed out alpha :D

[DCLXVI]

I painted my spare Mitshubishi body I bought together with the car... :

[R3VoLuTiOn]

oOo, and EVO! nice work.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

heres a pic of my gen1, with r34 bod. and yes i kno the body mounts are too high, just the setting for my other body

[Henry G]

I love the black rims! What paint did ya use on those? Do you think it would chip in rocks and stuff? Hmmmmm....... What about spray paint?
I ordered my stuff today. I decided to go with 17 turns. They said in the thread that I started that the number of turns doesn't affect speed too much, but affects the range in which the power is generated in the low, or high end. I don't totally crave speed. I have a gt + (If it would run :mad: :rolleyes: :mad: :rolleyes: I've had it for about 2 months now:mad: :rolleyes: :mad: :rolleyes: ) My setup will be speed gems 17 turn double with a Novak Explorer II! I can't wait! My old setup: MSC, traxxas stinger.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

Rims (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWG22&P=7)

Body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTX45&P=7)

Spray Paint (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS37&P=7)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

whoo hoo! i got new stuff in today froom tower.

for the car

- tc3 springs : red adn yellow (the springs barely fit)

for rc in general

-smc 3300 nimh
-soldering iron
-4 pack deans female plugs
-comm drops for motor
-bearing lube
-11t pinion for my 9t motor
-and other stuffs that i cant remember :)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

OMFG !@@ tower screwed me over. I ordered an alpha rear gear set with that right... it was "INSTOCK" when i ordered, now 1 wk later it says i backordered it @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

[R3VoLuTiOn]

wow this thread is so dead...... im lookin at a new ofna buggy :cool:

[Henry GG]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
wow this thread is so dead...... im lookin at a new ofna buggy :cool:
Totally! I've been gone for a little less than a month and you've been the latest post! I haven't been able to drive my p 10 much because I need some money for a new battery. When my msc fried my stinger it took a huge toll on my shark 1500. I finally got my gt + running! (sorta it stalls frequently :rolleyes: )

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im guessing u were banned :D

[DCLXVI]

Well, I'm not active in this thread since I hardly run my PTA...all I'm running in the summer time are my DT-10...come winter I will get some time on my PTA, doing some snow-drifting... :D

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im planning to sell my alpha, stock elect, stock everything, except prolly a brand new rush motor in gonna strap in. and hpi advan tires with tamiya 6 spokes. Whole car is in pretty good condition, the underside of chassis is scratched up but will only cost $5 to fix up :).

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ive just got a pureten
its got full ball bearings and a stinger motor
what motor do u guys think would be best for it?
im going to put a esc in it(also what is a msc????)
and what are some good cheap hop ups eccept for the shockies?

[filipinoguy]

an MSC is a manual speed controller. Check your other thread BTW.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i did, thanks

[R3VoLuTiOn]

wow.... this thread is REALLY going places...

[MonsterBlazer#1]

DAMN U R3VOLUTION!!!!!!!
hehehe:D
i thought there was a new thread with sum 1 asnwering my questions:eek: :confused: :rolleyes: :D

[R3VoLuTiOn]

well.. im keeping this car until i get enuf fireworks to blow it up.

im prolly gonna get a tc3 next..

[Henry GG]

I was considering selling mine until I spent 80 bucks to repair it. Now I love it. I still haven't gotten a new battery though... Why on earth would you blow it up? You're kidding, right?
Welcome to the pureten forum blazer! IT's just been revo, dcxlvi, and me. WElcome aboard.
Is it necesary now that I use a dust cover on my pureten off road with my esc? The stock dust cover is as flat as a pancake and 500 miles away in another state. Got my GT+ running (pretty much) flawlessly! Yay! :D
Blaster, I had a stinger im my car until it died. I spent 30 bucks on a 17X2 speed gems 2. IT's awesome!!!!!!!!!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

since my stinger ive upgraded to a 13X2 rush :D
and a novak tempest pro esc
:D :D :D :D :cool:
i havent had it running yet but ive got a 17,18,19,20 t pinions for it..which 1 ya recon for it and how fast?????
its got stock gearing internally

Neil
...btw thanks for the induction henry :D :cool: :) :p

[MonsterBlazer#1]

hey guys
im getting a 13X2 orion rush and i need a gearing chart for the pureten????
i reali need ya help here!!!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ccmon fellas
all u pureten woners cant u gime some idea as to what id use with a 13X2 rush?
i dun wot pinion to use???????
and wat kinda speed am i gona get???

Neil

[Henry GG]

I (think) I have a 21 turn pinion right now. I have a 17X2 speed gem. I wanna go down a few. I want some more low end, and, With a new battery I don't wanna overheat. (I'm only running on road right now.) with a 13X2, I'd go in the 17 teeth range. That's just an educated guess. I haven't really done much experimentation with pinions...at all... Still haven't gotten a battery yet :(

[MonsterBlazer#1]

o ok thanks
ill try a 17t

[R3VoLuTiOn]

ROFL:D

henry... u geared the pinion +1 and got a 17t motor?

stock is 20t pinion 20tcrap motor

13turn rush....try something like a 13-14t pinion...

im having serious issues with my rear gear set tho. keeps getting stripped from my 9t sgp and my 12t metal pinion:rolleyes:

[MonsterBlazer#1]

orrite thanks
ill get a plastic 1??
its 48 metric pitch isnt it?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

np. yea i think its 48 metric pitch... im not too sure but thats wut im using... that could be why im stripping so many gears... iono yet

[MonsterBlazer#1]

wel i herd sum wer else they are 48 metric aswel..soo my bet is that they are 48 metric...

[Henry GG]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn

henry... u geared the pinion +1 and got a 17t motor?

No, you mis-understood me. I thought stock gearing was a 21 turn pinion. I have the stock 20 turn pinion. I wanna gear down though. It's too high. Do you guys know how to convert the rallly to the spider on road version? I'm thinking about a winter project. I also wanna on-road car.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Henry GG
No, you mis-understood me. I thought stock gearing was a 21 turn pinion. I have the stock 20 turn pinion. I wanna gear down though. It's too high. Do you guys know how to convert the rallly to the spider on road version? I'm thinking about a winter project. I also wanna on-road car.

Change the tires?

I broke mine for the first time today...slid sideways into a curb...lost control when I tried to avoid running over some screwdrivers I had lying on the ground...cracked the shaft that holds the wheel, right where the pin for the hex goes through it... :( Oh, well I'll get a new one on monday...

[DCLXVI]

Ok, got a 17T engine GM-Racing or whatever, really cheap, with bearings... :)

So how sould I gear it? I think I have the 75T spur in there, I also have a 80T (bought the kit and got two)...so what spur and what pinion sould I use?

/DCLXVI

[R3VoLuTiOn]

wutever the original pinion is, lose 3-4 teeth on the new one and you should be fine

[DCLXVI]

Ok, I'll get a 29T then...

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im gettin pissed cause the rear gear set keeps getting stripped

[DCLXVI]

Do you mean the diff or the spur?

I ran mine yesterday...does motors have break-in time or are my 17x1 no good? Mabey my soldering skills does not measuere...

[R3VoLuTiOn]

the pureten 1st gen does NOT have a spur... which makes it stupid and retarded. its just like 3 gears, from the motor, then pretty much does wut a spur does. but is a complete bitch to replace. and yes your motor might need more break in. make sure ur brushes, when you look at the part that touches the comm, make sure its smooth and has no horizontal lines running across.

[DCLXVI]

Ok...

[DCLXVI]

It would seem that I have some problems with my brushes and my comm...both have irregular wear and black lines on them...I tried to fix it and have not tested it yet but I will tomorrow...

How does one clean or whatever, the brushes and the comm in the right way? I used some sanding paper to get rid of the lines...it seems to work well (I have not run the car but I tested the motor)...

[R3VoLuTiOn]

have the comm cut and get new brushes. if its just new and starting to wear after 1-2 runs, you could use a comm stick/pen. after remember to spray the can with motor spray or compressed air etc because the dust will settle in.

[DCLXVI]

Sanding paper worked great...now I need to increase the size of my pinion I think...it has to much bottom end and to low top end...I'll try and mount the stock pinion if I can get the stripped set screw out...

[Henry GG]

HI guys! Well, winter's comin' around, and, I've been pondering how i'll get my rc fix in the snow and ice. I read rcca's on line article and all, and, it didn't mention anything about how to water-proof my engine. Will it over-heat if I wrap it in a balloon? I have a gen-1, and, the engine is placed in the rear in a difficult place to water-proof.
Thanks!

[R3VoLuTiOn]

um... OR you could get the dust cover, which practically shields all the electronics from water and stuffs... but baloon ur reciever and esc (excluding heat sink) just incase. ur motor is fine... better it gets wet than overheats.

[DCLXVI]

I got a new body for my PureTen...what do you think?


http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_254.jpg
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_255.jpg
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_256.jpg
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_257.jpg
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_258.jpg

I have run mine in snow and water and what-not...just bag the esc and reciver in baloons and put a zip-tie to seal it...the you might want to put baloon on the battery aswell as I don't think that they are water-proof...

[R3VoLuTiOn]

nice volvo :) i need to borrow my friends digi cam and take pics of my original s2k... and some nicer shots of my r34.

i didnt notice how nice this car's chassis was. take off the reciever and esc... and it looks like a tamiya ta04-s. the only bad thing about this car (alpha) is that it cant have an on road bumper and that the electronics are mounted way too high unlike other rcs

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
nice volvo :) i need to borrow my friends digi cam and take pics of my original s2k... and some nicer shots of my r34.

i didnt notice how nice this car's chassis was. take off the reciever and esc... and it looks like a tamiya ta04-s. the only bad thing about this car (alpha) is that it cant have an on road bumper and that the electronics are mounted way too high unlike other rcs

Thanks...

You must have a A1...? On mine the bumber sticks straight forward...and the elec are mounted as low as possible...

[Henry GG]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
just incase. ur motor is fine... better it gets wet than overheats.
So, you're sayin' I don't have to protect it at all? What about a zip-lock baggie that's hot-glued around the chassis? I lost my dust cover a while ago. Is there any substitute?

[R3VoLuTiOn]

heres a self explanitory pic to why the gen1 i have sucks

[Henry GG]

Ya know, you're not gonna go very fast without a motor there revo! :p

[R3VoLuTiOn]

omg... THATS WHY MY CAR WONT GO UNLESS I KICK IT....;)

[DCLXVI]

Hehehe...I have had some trouble with the comm/brushes in my new motor...and having problem with that meant that I had to kick it to get it going...:D

[Henry GG]

Can't wait till it snows! I wanna drive in the snow!

[R3VoLuTiOn]

havent driven an rc for over 1 mth now...:(

[Henry GG]

1 cardboard box + 1 case of boredom = :D
This is what I'm gonna drive with in the snow...

[holshotracer]

mines in wrost shape its missing the susepion which is going on my new project. the funny thing is it still has the running gear in it.:p

[R3VoLuTiOn]

yay im gonna sell it to my friend soon :D

[Henry GG]

You're leaving us revo?:(
We'll miss ya! Happy rc'ing in the future!

[DCLXVI]

I'm having serious thought about putting buggy tires and foams on it so I can race it indoors at the "local" club...

[Henry GG]

I tried putting dirt works (or hogs I can't remember) buggy wheels on my pureten. the right tire fit, but the left tire was stuck out too far and rubbed up agianst the knobby thingie that keeps the battery door shut where ya put the coddar pin. you could take it off, but, I didn't. You could always modify the chassis... It'd be easy enough.

[Henry GG]

My car's acting strange... I was taking off the upper deck last night to put the servo in. Those little post thingies that come down from the upper deck were getting pushed side-ways when I put the screws in. I got all that (and the steering assembly that fell apart :rolleyes: ) put back together. Now, when I put a little pressure in the middle of the car and pull up on the back of it, those shafts that hold the suspension arms to the rear bulk-head and snap into the main chassis pop out from the main chassis! Why is this?!?!? :confused: all it'll take is one rock to the rear wrong, and, I'll be picking up parts in the street!
This stupid car's been giving me headaches...

[Henry GG]

OH NO!!!!!!! I was taking the rear bulk-head off when I noticed this crack! (Sorry for the poor quality). This is what’s been causing it to come off! If I pull on it, it comes right off releasing the suspension arms. Is there any way to repair this? I think this happened a while back when I got my new 17X2 motor and explorer II. I was going off a little jump onto the sidewalk that I did all the time with my old stinger. I went a lot faster than I usually did, hit the jump, popped my front wheels in the air, and I landed on that plastic motor guard thingie. It took a small chunk outta that thick plastic. It also chipped off a piece of the body post mount.

Does Kyosho make pureten replacement parts anymore? I visited tower and kyosho's site, and, found no trace of the preten anywhere!

Does this mean I’ll have to retire my good ‘ol pureten?

:( :( :( :( :( :(

[Henry GG]

Computers....:rolleyes:

[R3VoLuTiOn]

tower should have it. type in kyosho alpha in search and go thru all the parts.

[Henry GG]

This is ther right part, right? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSE18&P=7)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

im 50% sure it is. call them and ask them the parts number anyway. u can never be too sure. you should be able to find a corresponding part number in the manual that came with the car. but at $5 a pack, its hard to go wrong... just a bit** to pay shipping for. maybe its wise to stock up more

[Henry GG]

I checked the manufacterer's number and it matches the one on tower. I've got some quarter inch copper tubing laying around. I'm plan on build a small bumper to help minimize this happening again... I plan on making it stick out about .5 inch or so.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

-try getting a foam bumper. it helped my car quite a bit.

anywho i wont really be part of this dying forum from now on... I GOT MY TC3 !!!! it was a steal too! $125 cdn for a racer kit with team options !!! its smooth and so much lower than the alpha.. i guess the alpha has an advantage, ride height, very good basher car runs anywhere... like my driveway. if i ran my tc3 there itd be scratched up bad in a few runs.:) have fun all u alpha ppl, its a fun little car (actually longer than my tc3 cayse of rear motor mount and bumper)


peace out

John

[Henry GG]

Got my car fixed... Been driving in the snow... yeah... ZZzzzzzzzzzz.................. This thread is officially dead. in the past 4 months we'be had 2 posts since July!

[DCLXVI]

We have had about two/three pages since july...I think you are looking at the wrong number...

[R3VoLuTiOn]

while working on the alpha i sold my friend, lowering ride height and setting droop is like a tc3. just put a regular screw that would fit into the hole in the suspension arm, i lowered the alpha anywhere from stock height 10000000000cm?:D to like 3-4mm

[seakaycarthik]

hey there guys, im just wondering, what is the best ep rally car, i have a tb01 but might add a alpha 2 to my collection, looks good, its cheap, and rtr...i saw it on rcmart for 130rtr, but i cant find it on towers, can sum1 explain this first gen, thingy to me(i skimed thru the old posts)

im guessing this is the 2nd gen one... does it come wid dose drivers as well, i think they mixed it up wid tb01

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_34&products_id=6507

does anyone know where i can buy this kit for a cheap price, i dun like dinball cause their shipping is 50$...

[minijosh]

I just got a car off of a friend for free. It needs a new spur gear in the rear. Does anyone have a spare? My car is a rally one I think and it is belt drive. Is that normal for one of these?

[minijosh]

Is everyone else's car all brown underneath the dust cover? Kind of a weird color.

[djdannyb]

I Am Just About To Purchase A Kyosho Rtr Alpha Gp 3 Nitor Car With A Astra Shell And Gx.15 Recoil Motor .... Does Anyone Know The Rough Top Speed Of This Car .... Or Any Info On It Would Be Great .. I Have Found Litle On Net ..daniel

[minijosh]

I just got a ford focus rally. It is shaft driven and has a gx-12 engine. Is this a alpha rtr? It does have the white serovs. Oh the engine is frozen too. Is it worth restoring or just buying a new one? Help me, I on'y do electric Tamiya so nitro is new and crazy.

[minijosh]

DOH! wrong forum.

[GT Freak]

stick with electric, less mess. and easier to run