Tamiya Clod Buster Forum

[hyperstang]

rx78gp03s,
How did you post your pictures. I have the window XP pic shop thingy and what size or pixels do you use???

I need to post some of my pics...

THanks

[mavrick0]

rx78gp03s there are lots of us, not here though. You want to find the real home of these trucks go to R*C*M*T*.net(take out the *) and you will really see what clods can become just like weebs truck. I would post some pics but this board dosen't like my host so :p to them.

The list of clods I have are a Stock Clod, Clodzilla IV, TTR Ripper Clod, Clodzilla II, TXC(Tamiya Xtreme Clod), and my own 6x6x6 clod I'm working on.

[rx78gp03s]

i've tried many times to get into **** but i can't.
eh tho. this is my first clod i made. might just make another chassis next year.

[hyperstang]

I got into R C M T . net and it looks like no one has posted there, unless I got the wrong site. I did fill out an application but I got denied.

So any word on the pictures, and how to post them...

Thanks

[mavrick0]

rx78gp03s it's not that hard to get in. You just need to make sure your profile is filled out completely and don't have your e-mail address set to invisible or hidden. That is why most people are denied. If you need help msg me on msn under mavrick0@hotmail.com and I can help you through the process.

hyperstang you might have the wrong site or because you haven't been approved you can't view anything, but it is a very busy board with lots of things always going on. Same goes for you if you need help let me know and I can walk you through the app.

[rustlerman1]

hey guys. I got my clod the ather day, and man o man this thing is sick. But I would like to know if i can you's silly putty for the diffs?? And what else can i use for the diff besides jb weld?

I will get some pics soon.:)

later,
zack

[rustlerman1]

Here are some pics of my clod it has 8in suspention stock,no lye. but i made a lift kit thing like a not even a half in inch.And there is a pic of my rear custum steering lock out. And my frame that i made its is 4in wide and 8 in longwith canvaliver. Do you guys think this frame will work??

Later, Zack

[rustlerman1]

:D

[rustlerman1]

:)

[SteveK]

That looks pretty good, but you'll want to rework those cantilevers. See the two lengths, the one from the center pivot to the shock mount, and then from the center pivot to the rod going to the axle? Well the shock length needs to be shorter than the other length, or else you lose the effect of adding the cantilver.

Think of it this way: If the 'L' has a 2" leg for the tranny rod and a 1" length for the shock, then you'll basically double the overall suspension travel in relation to the shock. If the shock leg is 1" and the other leg is 3", you'll triple the shock's travel. Putting the shocks in the middle of the suspension links gives the same effect: The arc the wheel travels is a longer arc than the arc the shock travels. The actual numbers aren't important, it's ratio you want to keep in mind. roughly 2:1 is a good ratio to start with.

What kind of pivot does the cantilever have?

[rustlerman1]

Thanks SteveK. I am useing a screw that has a washer built on it that go's in side the canvilever. So i sould make the "L" things bigger?? And what about the silly puddy in the diff's? I dont whan them lock all the time, for instince i dont want them for serus rock crawling. And do's the frame look good????:confused: :o And what can i do for the steering servo?? sould i make a custom steering plate??

later,Zack

[SteveK]

Rustler-

Yes, I would change those canitlever arms, making the rod-arm longer than the shock-arm. You can save yourself some cutting my leaving them a triangle, which might actually help their strength. Just keep the distance from the suspension rod mount to the pivot point roughly douple that of the distance from the pivot point to the shock mount.

www.mattsrcstuff.com has some pretty good explanations on how they work. The only thing I didn't like what the way he mounted them. I suggest trying these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2892&P=7
They have the bushings and the posts to ride on, so they will be fairly secure and pivot smoothly. You could either sandwhich 2 or more pieces of aluminum together (Only one has to be the full shape of the arm) to get the proper thickness to hold the bushings, or you could even bolt the aluminum cantilever arm to the bellcrank (There is one perfectly flat side, and more of the L-shaped arms can be had here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2894&P=V More secure that way) and grind the aluminum out for clearance around the bushing/nut.

A poorly mounted cantilever arm kills the whole effect. I saw a guy's ESP one time, and it had so much slop in the cant's that it bound up and didn't work freely (They only used a single bearing). He said his JPS chassis, which smoother, more secure mounted, never bound and worked great.

You could try mounting the shocks on the suspension links, but that opens up some new concerns. Each method has it's highs and it's lows. You can see pictures of the CAD layout for my truck about page 6 of this thread. Which the shocks in the middle of the links, it basically doubles the travel they provide.

For steering, you might want to use rx78gp03s's method. The mounting style from the TXT-1 is most popular, but mounting it vertically on the gearcase seems easier. You do lose the front bumper though, so watch that.

[mavrick0]

rustlerman1 you can not use silly putty in the diffs of the Clod since they are not a closed diff like the TXT/Jugg's are. You either have to JB Weld which is what I recommend or leave them open. If you try silly putty or hot glue both will come out of the diff and get jammed up into the rest of gears giving you a very tight and hard moving gear box. The hot glue will probably hold longer, but eventually it will let go, and the silly putty will just be thrown into the rest of the gears first time you nail the throttle.

[corwin99]

I've seen people lock clod diffs pretty good by drilling a hole through the chunky part of the two outside gears and running a rod through them. Seems to work pretty good and it doesn't really compromise the strength of the gears.

[crewcabcrawler]

the best way to lock your diffs is to jb weld them. i used epoxy and hot glue in mine and they both broke loose so jb weld is about the only wayto go. just make sure you leave the gear case apart. ie. only assemble the diff itself(diffgear and spiders) and dont reassemble anything cause if the jbweld gets on stuff it aint coming loose and you'll have to break or cut the case apart if you reassemble before the jbweld has dried entirely(trust me i had to cut one of my gearcases apart)

[rx78gp03s]

wow, i feel very proud to have someone suggest my kind of servo mount. even tho i pretty much copied it off someone else's rig.

[DIrTjUNkie]

Hey guys.....just picked up a XC2 chassis for the clod......ne suggestions or rec. before I put it together? ne body have ne experience with Xtreme they would like to share?

werd!

[hyperstang]

XC2...Good choice,
I have one myself, picked it up from HUA on www.rc4wd.com

This is a good truck and I had no problems working on it. You might want to check out a article done by Jason on www.rcrock.com

Look for XC2 clod part 1 and you will have full on pictures and step by step on how to put this thing together. I actually found myself going toward his article than the one supplied by Xtreme. Also if you run the steering servo in the front, like how I am, I bought the Thunder Tech Racing front servo protector thingy, also from HUA. He is your hook up, trust me.

Suspension was a challenge for me. My friend, who is the manager of the LHS, and myself worked on the suspension for a whole afternoon. I had associated tmaxx shocks with blue springs and the suspension was a bit firm in my opinion. After jumping the clod and landing, there was a bit of a bounce and when you pull the throttle, you flip over. So I moved the shock bottom to the highest point on the bottom shock mount and kept the top in the stock position. This gave the shock full extension and helped a little. I then added 15WT oil in the fronts and put on the softest spring set associated makes, which I think are the silver ones.

I now have it the way I like it. It absorbs the bounce well enough for my taste. What is actually cool is that this thing comes with no sway bars and I still cant flip it over at full throttle. I run with 2 11 doubles and I am ready for my LHS monster Jam this Sunday. I will be going up against alot of Thunder Tech Clods and so far the XC2 is hanging in there.

email me if you come across any problems....I will do my best to help you out. I also slapped on some Imex Baja on road tires and now this thing is just itching to race this Sunday.

Race on...

[hyperstang]

Also...
The XC2 was made kinda weird where you don't know where to mount the body. Here a thought for ya...

Get some HPI Body posts and mount them to the sides of the chassis, so they point out the sides instead of the verticle that we are used to. Kinda like the way the Thunder Tech Ripper is designed. With that posts that way, you will have a better time mounting and taking off the bodies. If you go verticle, the posts will go right through your front window and that looks really odd. Trust me, I am running with the Pro-Lines new Escalade EXT truck and I mounted it through the sides of the truck and this thing looks nutzzz..

Try it...you'll like it..

Race on...

[hyperstang]

file:///E:/DCIM/100MSDCF/DSC00446.JPG (http://file:///E:/DCIM/100MSDCF/DSC00446.JPG)

[DIrTjUNkie]

sweet! thanks for the info, you pretty much answered all the q's I was about to ask! :) I also picked up the chassis from rock@rc4wd.com Good Guy, he helped me out alot.

How does the drive train hold up from jumping?
ne thing I should do? or should it be fine?

I should be runnin her this w/e cant wait :D

ne ways Good luck in the race this w/e.

btw the link for the pic? is not working.

peace!

[hoho]

my bullhead_1
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img1237_21052003075742_1.jpg

[hoho]

my bullhead_1re

[hoho]

my bullhead_2

[hoho]

.

[hoho]

my bullhead_4

[rustlerman1]

hey guys, my rim on my clod the inside of the rim where you tightin the nut,the one back part of the rim is push back werd,so it makes the one part behind the rim where the holes are the littel nippels wont go in the holes.sry for the confusen:o

[rustlerman1]

never mind about that quistion,i fixed it. i got some photos of my clod rock crawling tell me what you guys think??


http://community.webshots.com/album/79830752iZzWwr

race on,zack

[corwin99]

My new and improved clod.. i still haven't gotten a chance to run it yet!

http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clodxc-01.jpg
http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clodxc-02.jpg
http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clodxc-03.jpg

[hyperstang]

Corwin...

Nice xtreme clod. Is that the XC1? I just got my XC2 and I also have an escalade body, but mine is the EXT. Looks great man.

Race on...

[hyperstang]

well here is my xtreme XC2 clod, courtisey of HUA from rc4wd.com

White Escalade EXT with XTREME XC2

[rustlerman1]

nice clod!!!!Mtroniks Eco 20 (F/R) ESC is that esc any good for the clod, i want to go with a cheap one for now.do you guys know the lenthof the wires??????? http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/159120.asp

race on,zack

[DIrTjUNkie]

finished mine last week Ill try and post pics later.
How do you guys like the turning radius?
What would you rec. to improve? (thunder tech conv.)?

peace!

[hyperstang]

You know what, get a good Hi Torque steering servo. Mine is a Hitec.....(I have no Idea what number), but costs me about 70.00. This thing turns on a dime. Radius is good, the tires don't touch the linkage, but that is all up to how your controll is set up. My dual rate is turned down a little and I played around with the trim. I added a pair of TTR clod wideners from HUA's website www.rc4wd.com
and I was good to go for the monster Jam we had last month. I won the warm ups but lost in the acutal contest. Made it to Semi Finals and got knocked down by a TTR Ripper...

Race on...

[corwin99]

yah its an XC1, i love the escalade's bodies!

I was gonna get the EXT, but decided I wanted a pure pearl white SUV Escalade. for my next body i'm gonna get an H2 or an EXT and freak it out with some tribal stuff :)

My turning radius is pretty bunk, but i haven't filed off the nibs and i'm using the stock steering.

[ruff_ridah_dawg]

isn't the chassis plastic

[hyperstang]

Are you talking about the XTREME Chassis for the clod, or the stock clod chassis?????????????

If you are talking about the Xtreme Clods (XC1, XC2)...NOPE..

these chassis are made with CF..

[DIrTjUNkie]

here's some pics of my clod with XC2 chassis
pics might be a little weak.... :(
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/522/16574/p/389466_3030540249954557132_vl.jpg

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/522/16574/p/389487_8380107015741182177_vl.jpg
last one:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/522/16574/p/389488_7050914055305508264_vl.jpg

I picked it up from rock@rc4wd. Im pretty impressed by its performance. Turning radius isnt bad, she jumps great, and acts just like a monster truck should.

notice the t-maxx body :)

[rustlerman1]

hey guys i just ordered some stuff from rc4wd.com,great site.i ordered the front streeing this one http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=66364701x15633&session=3f1c25e63f55a9bc&L=eng&P=ALU-CB06 do you guys know if it works good???and i ordered the lrp f1 reverse for the my clod.they said that speed control should work,will it or no??? here are some moroe pics of the clod. tell me what you guys think??http://community.webshots.com/user/rccrazy1

[maX energ]

who wants to see my clod...everyone.! duh..:cool:
haha nothing special...:D ;) yet!
full bearings
reedy badd maxx mild 19t's
parrell wiring
super rooster
custom rear steering lock-out..(ill have pics later)
JR standard race servo with a bigger horn for more leverage
locked front and rear diffs
futaba attackR radio..

[hyperstang]

check out my TXT outbacks with 40 series road rage on my XC2 clod racer.....

[DIrTjUNkie]

yeah! bling blingin! :cool:

[BCat125]

Here are some of my best clods.

http://eastcoastrc.com/Rowler.JPG

http://eastcoastrc.com/ecrct2276.JPG

http://eastcoastrc.com/ecrct2263.JPG

http://eastcoastrc.com/Spider_2.JPG

http://eastcoastrc.com/ecrct2277.JPG

These are only a few of my clods. I would show the rest but it would take up way too much room. :D

[rx78gp03s]

my clod i almost finished. except i need a rim... so if anyone got a spare rim, message me and i'll give you my addy.
i also dont mind trading stuff for a spare rim... thans in advance.

[hyperstang]

Those are some sweet looking clods.....

[3nit]

hello people...

i was wondering how many turns does the stock motor that comes with the clod?

can my ESC futaba mc330cr handle 2 stock motors and a single 2400 ni-cd batt without burning it? it has a 13t limit.

thanks,
-3nit

[BCat125]

A stock clod motor is much slower than a 13 turn motor so they will easily be able to handle your esc if a mechanical speed switch can. Im pretty sure it could handle a 2400 but not 100%.

13 turn limit means 13 turns or higher.

Im not sure how many turns a stock motor has.

[mavrick0]

That ESC should be able to handle the stock motors in parallel. The stock motors are 27 turns with zero degrees of timing and running them in parallel the ESC will see them as being about a single 13 turn motor. Just keep an eye on the ESC while you are running it and check to see how hot it gets. If you run the motors in series then it won't have a problem at all but you only get have the power of running them in parallel. As for the battery, the mAh rating doesn't mean anything besides that's how much current can be drawn in an hour at the load. Which pretty much means the higher the value the longer runtimes you should get. What you need to worry about is the voltage or cell limit the ESC has.

[3nit]

thanks.

so 2 stock motors in parallel is just the motor limit for my ECS.

will a fan blowing air directly on the futaba mc330cr heat sink help?

the manual says 6-7 cells (7.2-8.4) i guess dual battery is out for me???

what about this?: (for my MC330cr)

current capacity (FET rating) forward=200a, reverse=100a

bec voltage: 6.0v


"i'm a poor man with a hobby, i don't wanna burn my ESC" =)

thanks again,
-3nit

[rx78gp03s]

Originally posted by 3nit
thanks.

so 2 stock motors in parallel is just the motor limit for my ECS.

will a fan blowing air directly on the futaba mc330cr heat sink help?

the manual says 6-7 cells (7.2-8.4) i guess dual battery is out for me???

what about this?: (for my MC330cr)

current capacity (FET rating) forward=200a, reverse=100a

bec voltage: 6.0v


"i'm a poor man with a hobby, i don't wanna burn my ESC" =)

thanks again,
-3nit

a fan will help your esc. i always have one on my clod.
you can go dual batteries but only in parallel. series is out of the question.
as for your fet rating, i wouldnt worry about it, its related to the amperage draw from your motor. and the motors you got in there is no problem for your esc.
a bec voltage is just the power ur esc gives to your reciever(also powers any servo).

hope that helps.

[3nit]

hi,

what is "wheelbase"?

and what benefit does having a longer one have?

thanks,
-3nit

[mavrick0]

Wheelbase is the measurement from front wheel nut to rear wheel nut. The number that seems to work for everyone racing is 14 inches. This gives a good stable truck for jumping and high speeds. Anything over that is over kill but is good for hill climbing to give a lower center of gravity and make it less likely to flip over while climbing.

[3nit]

hello people,

i am soon to get a clod and since i own a machine shop, i'm already planning to make my own chassis.

i dont want to buy one and i prefer making it (cheaper)
i want to base my chassis on a current existing one that is proven in the tracks. (gecko, ripper, tremor, clodzilla series...)

i want a design that has a good balance between speed and crawling.

can anyone direct me to a link?
also infos about cantilever and multi suspension setups.

thanks and i cant wait for my modclod,
-3nit

[PCC]

Wow, racing and crawling. These two configurations are at opposite extremes. For crawling you want supple, long travel suspension, tall chassis to decrease the chance of being high-centered, no swaybars, good articulation (which is not to say that it should have so much articulation that the front axle just flops over when it exceeds 90 degrees). Also, when crawling, you would want 4 wheel steering and locked diffs. Weight isn't so much of a big deal but don't try to crawl with a 20lb truck. Gearing should be low, low, low.

For racing you want stiff suspension, low center of gravity, swaybars. For stability around the turns you need to be running 2WS and open diffs. You also want it to be light, light, light. Your gearing should be taller for more speed, too.

[sickdrummer]

anyone selling a stock clod with no electronics? cause i am looking for one in good condition but not electronics.
if anyonhe knows let me know
thanks

[3nit]

halo =)

can anyone please post a detailed pic of a cantilever arm with bearing? and how the bearing is mounted on the cantilever securely?

i'm doing a clod plan/ project study before i start building anything.

i dont quite get it, how to securely mount the bearing without hindering smooth movement of the cantilever arm.

samlpe: if i place the bearing in the left side and the bolt that will hold the arm inplace on the opposite side (sandwhiching the arm between them) wont the bolt stop the bearing from moving since it will touch the arm?

thanks,
-3nit

[SteveK]

I don't have any pictures, but the ESP cantilever uses a single flanged bearing in each cantilever arm. The flange keeps it from going through the cant one way, and it's held in place the other way with some screws that overlap the outter face of the bearing. I don't like this method as a single bearing has too much slop and moves too much. I hear there is some conversion or something to add a second bearing, but I don't know anything about it.

Other cantilever arms, IE JPS's, seem to be thick enough for two bearings, like a steering bellcrank arm. This is a much more secure way to build it.

I think you might want to consider putting the shocks in the middle of the 4-link rods, which does the same thing but eliminates the extra work and slop of the cantilever arms.

[SteveK]

OK, now that I can see your picture clearly, here is how ESP does it:
The bearing has a flange that would be on the Top View side. That would keep the bearing from moving to the right, deeper into the cantilever arm. Then screws go into the Top View side of the cantilever, and washers overlap the flange, holding it in place.

If you want to use cantilevers, I would make the arm thick enough, at least in that spot (For example, if you make it out of 1/8" aluminum, bolt 2 or 3 pieces in that spot to get it thick enough), and run the hole all the way through. Then you can put a flanges bearings on each side, and nut holding the whole thing in place will keep the flanges in place too.

For durability, use 3/16" x 3/8" flanges bearings, and then some 3/16" OD tapable aluminum tubing for pivots.

[3nit]

thanks steve,

earlier when doing my research i was confused cuz most of the articles i read said they used single bearing per arm. which makes me wonder how they could mount it in the arm securely. i'm sure there would be problems about its stabilty.

like you said, i think i'll use the shocks-on-the-4-link instead cus its much simpler to make and seems to do the same job.

BUT! cantilever suspension looks way cooler! =)

is there an advantage using cantilver or 4 link suspension?

i'm planning to make a chassis that has a good balance between racing and crawling and i think the "ripper" chassis fits this description. i'll base my chassis from it.

thanks,
-3nit

[rx78gp03s]

i'd go with your design on the cantilever arm. but with dual bearings. one on each side of the arm will make things definetly more stable.
cantilever suspension is great for the rock crawlers but can be tuned for racing. as you kno cantilever arm works on ratio. you have a ratio of lets say 2:1, shocks provide 1" of travel.
1 being on the shock side and the 2 at the linkage side, now that shock provides 2" of travel. but there are some minor down falls of cantilever arms, sometime they dont provide the fulla rticualtion because of the wheels hitting the cantilever. but that can be solved by placing th cantilevers on board like the txt.

i'm currently switching over to cantilevers well because i broke a shock mount on mine. i'll se if i can post pics of mine when its done.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

cantilever's are nice and with a cantilever setup you can have different adjustmant holes to adjust the suspension. Great for crawling and general bashing but it does take more to setup. Once its done though it does look wicked and perform well. Deffinetely go with what steve said on the bearings on the cantis.. For durability, use 3/16" x 3/8" flanges bearings, and then some 3/16" OD tapable aluminum tubing for pivots. I used a smaller bearing on mine initially and two of them failed and now have just gone to the 3/16 x 3/8 flanged bearings on mine. Also don't skimp on the thickness of the aluminum. I've seen people use some silly cheap and thin stuff. 1/8" is good for a chassis but on the cantis I'd go with something thick. Its easier to get them aligned and much easier to get the dual bearings setup plus it just looks better. I'm using 1/4" aluminum on my cantis and 1/8" 3" square tube on my chassis.

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/customclod_07.jpg

I've got no problems with articulation either.. (http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/customclod_04.jpg)

[3nit]

ok thanks,

i plan on using 1/4" aluminum on the cantilevers and also in the chassis, i'm going for the txt-1 look. since cutting it out wont be a problem for me.

as for the steering and 4 links, what material do most of you use?
1/4" diameter aluminum rods?

i was thinking of using "stainless steel rods", maybe thinner than 1/4" since it will be heavier.

do you think that stainless would be a good idea? has anyone tried this before? would there be issues compared to aluminum rods?

thanks again,
-3nit

[rx78gp03s]

as for a chassis have you thought of doing a steel tube chassis? much like the one on real monster trucks. if your gonna do it out of aluminum plates, may i suggest you make it a full roll cage kind of shape. someone on this board might kno what i'm takling about.

i use 1/4" aluminum round stock for links and steering.
using steel well, once its bent, it stays bent for some of us, but since u got a machine shop.
only other down fall i see using steel links is weight.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

cool.. I snaped some pics today of my project. It looks and handles excelent! I drove it into all these positions no hand posing here.

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/customclod_10.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/customclod_09.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/customclod_11.jpg

[hyperstang]

Here is my XC2 Clod in this first monster truck race this season. The only XC2 Mod Clod in the midst of TTR Clods and 2 TXT's. Made the top 5 out of 15 racers....Not bad....

[hyperstang]

Here are the contestants....

[3nit]

ola!

i've been studying various clod chassis and it seems, correct me if i'm wrong but...

the "ripper", "xc2", "gecko" etc. all share the same basic design. except for the material used, they all look the same.

they all used link mounted shocks design.

so in theory, there are only two designs for the clod chassis, those with
1. cantilever suspension and
2. link mounted suspension?

i'm fairly new to this and i still dont have an actual clod to work into so feel free to correct me.


i'm planning on using the link mounted shocks design since i'm only starting to build mine and its far more simpler to

construct than with a cantilever setup.

plus it seems that 4-link suspension is a bit more adaptable both for crawling (gecko) and racing (xc2, ripper).


i noticed that just by adjusting the shocks mounted on the link:

1.nearer the center of the chassis, the ride height is increased and the suspension is softer, which is good for crawling?
2.further the center and closer into the axles means lower ride height and stiffer suspension, hence perfect for racing?

and last question:

i decided to used a 14" wheelbase. now, what will be the dimensions for my chassis? lenght x width x height?
plus what would be the legnth of my links?
in short, how will i arrive with my 14" wheelbase?


thanks a lot people, this forum is such a great help for a newbie,
-3nit

"i'll be back"

:cool:

[rx78gp03s]

there are alot of factors when you try to get a certain wheel base. how long your links are gonna be will determined by how far the link mounts are far away from each other.

as for suspension set up, you can have both. front link mounts, and rear canti's. weird set up but sometrucks have them.

you aslo have to remember thatwhen the truck compresses its suspension the wheel base becomes longer. while its not compressed, its shortened.

as for width, 4-5 inches should do.
hieght.. who nkos. find a body put it on and see if it looks correct. thats what i had to do ahah.

hope this helps

[hyperstang]

On the XC2 chassis, the bottom of the shocks are actually connected to a brace that doesn't flex at all when you race or climb. It is a different design from the ripper chassis, where the bottom of the shocks connect to a bottom link that can flex during jumps and races and climbing.

The XC2's suspension is a bit troublesome to get it the way you want it. With the stock settings, the truck was to short for me and suspension was stiff. Everytime I pulled the throttle, with my Orion 11T doubles, I would pull a small wheelie. I then made some minor modifications by adjusting the wheel base to the outter most extent and changed shock position, oil and springs.

My XC2 is handling like a beauty and I am really happy with the outcome of this chassis. When you get this bad boy tumed, get ready for some serious racing. I am doing great at the local track and making the top 5 out of 15-17 modified clods. Again, I am running the only XC2 chassis out there and kicking b utt.

Race on...

[3nit]

halo,

since my local hobby shop has a pretty small stock on supplies and mostly tamiya brand. so i am stuck on tamiya parts for now.

what kind of rod ends are normally used for the links?
which tamiya brand rod ends should i buy?

if i'm not mistaken, i'm gonna be needing 24 right?
(no cantilevers, just link mounted suspension)

2 for each link. 8 links so 16pcs
plus 4 for front steering and 4 for rear steeering?

right?

i'm dealing with the rod ends for now so i'm focused here.
everything else will be dealt with later.

help and guidance is deeply needed, oh great clod masters.

thanks,
-3nit

[TORQUER]

Wow, it’s been a few months since I stuck my head in here… Looks like the Clods started to come out of the woodwork!

‘Bout the cantilever topic… Here’s what I did that might help some…

Here is the setup that I made. It is pretty easy to make and works perfect...

First, I drilled a 27/64-inch hole for the bearing in the lever. Then I chamfered (beveled) around one side of the hole that was just drilled. Then I pressed in a 5X11 mm bearing into the hole using a vice. The bearing is slightly larger than the hole, so the chamfer is necessary in order to get the bearing pressed into the lever. It is a nice tight fit and so far has not shown any signs of coming loose...
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/tips//CANTILEVER2.JPG

Next, I cut a piece of 1/4 inch stock X 1/4 inch long. Then drilled a 3/16 hole through the center of it to use as a spacer.
Next, I installed a 3/16X 1-inch allen head bolt through the bearinged cantilever and 1/4 inch spacer...
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/tips//CANTILEVER.JPG

Then placed the cantilever in position on the chassis and then tighten the allen bolt with an appropriate nut. The cantilever pivots perfectly on the bearing with the allen head bolt and spacer...
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/tips//CANTILEVER3.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/tips//CANTILEVER4.JPG http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/tips//CANTILEVER5.JPG

Will

[TORQUER]

Oh, almost forgot to post some of the latest action!

Well, found a new bashing spot! Nice sandstone rocks, just right for scale crawling. So, I took the gang out for a little early afternoon fun by the lake… Here’s the action!!! Man, it was fun… I hope you all enjoy!

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake2.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake2.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake3.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake3.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake4.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake4.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake5.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake5.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake6.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake6.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake7.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake7.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake8.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake8.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake9.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake9.jpg



Will

[TORQUER]

More pics...

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake10.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake10.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake11.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake11.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake12.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake12.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake13.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake13.jpg


http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake14.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake14.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/ClodLake15.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/ClodLake15.jpg

Here is how the day started… I was not even one minute into the first run when I saw a slab of rock laying at a perfect angle for a ramp. So, I decided that I would firs start off the day jumping this natural ramp… Well, I headed towards it at full speed, and right when I started up this ramp…”SNAP”… The right front of the truck came to an abrupt stop and the rear end came around the front and the whole truck slung up and over the ramp like some kind of dead carcass slinging through the air… AHHH!!!…was my first reaction! The truck was still on all fours and I drove it over to me…thank goodness for four wheel steering.

Well, needless to say, the top right axle tube was snapped and pulled the link apart on the left side! Luckily, I had some small zip ties and just unscrewed the top knuckle screw back a little and put the zip tie in there…instant fix! So, the action continues!!!

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/Broken.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/Broken.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/icons/Broken2.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/lakeday/Broken2.jpg

Will

[SteveK]

3nit-
You can use Traxxas rod-ends, they come in packs of 20 for about $7, so get a couple and have some extras. The plastic can be drilled out to about a 6-32 screw.

Most kits come with Rocket City rod-ends, which can be found at www.servocity.com

Torquer-

Great pics, and cool idea for the body. I was looking for something to do with my F350, now I'll pick up some stock decals and some lime-green paint (My favorite color for the stock truck). I saw those stickers on a red F350 regular cab a while back too.

[TORQUER]

Thanks SteveK, but you gotta post some pics when you get finished with your new lid!!!

Will

[hyperstang]

Any one know where they sell immortal racing motors. I think that these are drag racing motors. I might want to try these motors in my Clod or TXT....

a website would be great..

thanks

Race on..

[WDGuy]

What would be the best cheapest racing/crawling setup for a clod.

[mavrick0]

Just a heads up for everyone Tamiya is discontinuing the Clod Buster kits. Parts will be available for a while but will dissappear like everything else. This was told to us over on R*C*M*T* by Thunder Tech Racing and our Tamiya USA contact confirmed. But it sounds like they are bringing something out that will be along the clod lines just updated.

[minijosh]

I am about to buy a stock clod and I am excited. I have a dagger but no esc so I don't know what it is like to have a off road truck. The dagger is fun with 1 motor and 2 would be better. I guess this clod will be a crawler. Maybe maybe not. I have been looking at the clodzilla's kits and I want to be able to race my truck and take some jumps as well. Now which kit is the question.

[mavrick0]

In all honesty stay away from ESP. I have nothing againist them and they were great 5 years ago and I still have a Z2 in my hobby room but just sold my Z4 chassis cause it sucks. If you are going to crawl get a RC Guys Gecko chassis. If you are going to race get a TTR Ripper or Team Tweaked chassis kits. Both are high end and expensive but are well worth it for racing.

[hyperstang]

I currently race with the Xtreme XC2 Clod chassis. It is a great, great chassis and I am doing real well with it. I did however, have some problems with the suspension. So I went and got the TTR (thundertech racing) bottom links and put those onto my XC2 Clod....OMIGOSH!!!!

Talk about better handling and you don't need sway bars...I think I just transformed my XC2 clod into a TTR Ripper....LOL

I'll post some pics soon..

Race on...

[minijosh]

Where are those photos??? Still waiting for my truck in the mail. Should be here at the end of the month. Stupid slow mail to overseas people.

[rustlerman1]

i got some of my web site done take a look.http://www.freewebs.com/clodman1/ tell me what you guys think of the site and pics.

[wannabeoffroad]

I want to have independant front / rear steering on my Bullhead. Does anybody know if the KO ex-11 will work for this? If not, is there any other radio that you can reccomend. It seems that most of the 3-channel radios are set up for push button shifting. I don't want to spend the $300 on Futaba's top end pistol (although the mixing function would be ideal) and I'd like to get a radio that I can use with my other cars and not a 4-channel stick just for the Bullhead.

[SteveK]

Any 3-channel radio should allow for independant 4-wheel steering. I don't know if the 3rd switch is on-off or lets you choose from 3 positions, so look into that before you buy.

[mavrick0]

I run an EX-11 on my on-road cars but also use it for my crawling clod and use the 3rd channel for the independent rear steering and it works perfectly. I do however have one problem with the radio. The ABS braking can not be shut off so if you try reversing the reverse pulsates due to the ABS. This is why I love the 3PK. I can set it up for my racing Clods so when I need to slow right down for a hard turn it mixes the 3rd channel for turning but when I'm doing high speed it sets the rear steering to its neutral point and leaves it there.

[wannabeoffroad]

That's just stupid. Unless you have a gas car, you don't have any use for ABS. Why would KO make it always on? Don't they realize most of the EX-11 buyers will be using reverse? Oh well, that might be something I can live with. How do you control the third and forth channels? Are they linear or stepped? Are they easy to work while driving, or is it something you need to stop for? Sorry about the horde of ?'s but I can't find any info on KO radios. At least nothing more than a general list of features. I admit that the 3PK would deliver exactly what I want, but I don't have the $320.

[wannabeoffroad]

I e-mailed KO about my questions, and it looks like the EX-11 is what I'll be getting next. Thanks for the help

[mavrick0]

You mean you got a reply from KO?? Lucky you. I tried several times to see if there was anything I could do about the ABS and shutting it down and they never replied. But I admit the ABS does come in handy on my electric TC's for braking as well. It's got two settings, one for nitro brakes and one for ESC brakes so they thought at least that much.

But I guess you got all your questions answered so I don't have to tell you anymore. I was actually going to scan a couple pics of the manual so you could read exactly how the 3rd and 4th channels work but guess you don't need them now.

[wannabeoffroad]

Mavrick---They told me that the ABS don't work in reverse. I'd guess that means that something in your's is either messed up, or not adjusted correctly. That, or the KO guy don't know what he's talking about...also a possibility. Whatever the case, I think I'm going to get one. The radio appears capable of the job I want it to do, for what I have to spend. If it stutters in reverse, I'll have something to complain to them about, since I was told otherwise. However, I don't think I'll be backing up enough for it to cause that big of a problem.

[4wdmt]

guys, does the TXT-1 wheels same with Clodbusters'? can they be interchanged without any problem? thanks.

[hyperstang]

TXT RIMS will not fit a Clodbuster. If you want to use txt tires on a clod, you'll need to pick TTR wheel wideners. Here is a pic of my Xtreme mod clod with TXT Outbacks and road rage 40 series.

[mavrick0]

wannabeoffroad you are correct I finally got mine to work without the ABS. Because I bought this used and there's no way to reset the data the brake response was set so the ABS was turned on. But now I have it working properly and glad I do. I like this radio and the reason I bought it was for the Tamiya Knight Hauler I am picking up but was worried that the ABS was going to cause me grief with it but not now.

Hyperstang is half right. If you want to swap between Clod wheels and TXT wheels the TTR wideners are a good idea and give you a wider more stable stance. But the really cheap way is if you have 4 extra wheel disks drill them out for the TXT wheel pins and keep the other set for the stock wheels and you can interchange them that way. But I personally have pretty much switched all my trucks over to the TXT wheel cause they look better, they are stronger and the larger pins don't break off like the Clod/Jugg size pins do.

[idiotdea]

Well, I'll post a pic of my latest clod modification (rebuild).
http://www.multi.fi/~awesterl/pics/clod/pictures/clod11-half.jpg
If you want to see more pictures of my clod, then go to http://www.multi.fi/~awesterl/pics/clod/

EDIT: changed to a smaller size picture.

[minijosh]

hey hyperstang, what chassis set is that? looks sweet!

[associatedguy08]

I wanna get the Gecko Chassis but I need axles. I was wondering if the axles at Thunder Tech's Clod Junkyard are complete. If they aren't what else would I need. Thanks

[creep]

My cousin want's to sell me his old Clod for $100. It's looks old but in good shape. No electronics (except motors) but the wheels and tires look fairly new. He said the front axle wasn't working right but it was still intact. How hard is it to work on the axles. Do you think it's worth it? I would like to make a rock climber out of it and don't know if it would better to just get a TXT-1. I don't mind the wrenching, in fact sometimes it can be kinda' fun. No plans for any serious racing in the future, just serious fun.:D

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

[SteveK]

It usually costs over $100 just to get the axles themselves, let alone wheels and tires, so it's a pretty good deal even if it needs work.

The axles aren't hard to work on per se. They are pretty simple, and the plastic housings are just big so it looks a little more daunting than it is. Some steps require a lot of screws and nuts, but just cracking the case in half to get at the gears takes 4 or 5. Definitely get a manual to look over.

[SteveK]

Originally posted by associatedguy08
I wanna get the Gecko Chassis but I need axles. I was wondering if the axles at Thunder Tech's Clod Junkyard are complete. If they aren't what else would I need. Thanks

According to their website, the gearcases are complete, the used ones are assembled and the new ones are not, except for wheels, tires, and motors.

[creep]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SteveK
[B]It usually costs over $100 just to get the axles themselves, let alone wheels and tires, so it's a pretty good deal even if it needs work.

Thanks, I will probably get it now. Are there any fairly good chassis and 4-link kits that don't cost to much?

[associatedguy08]

According to their website, the gearcases are complete, the used ones are assembled and the new ones are not, except for wheels, tires, and motors.

Thanks. I will probably buy some from them or on ebay. How wide are complete axles with clod wheels/tires mounted? I am figuring out the dimensions to make my custom chassis.

[WDGuy]

I am building a custom chassis for a clod too. I got a complete clod for $100 shipped.

[associatedguy08]

yea all the aftermarket chassis' are rediculously priced and building them is fun. Plus custom ones are easier to customize.

[crawlermaxx]

where can I get cheap clod tires?

[billybobjoe]

wat are the sites to all the different chassis companies

[PCC]

Try this. (http://www.clodparts.com/catagories/chassis.html)

[rustlerman1]

here are some pics of my clodbuster in some snow and other terrian.

just go to this page and look at my clodbuster in some snow.
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=111423566

[Adanmtxt1]

hey guys

i am just about to get a clodbuster!!! yeah, but i was hoping you could tell me some things-

are the shocks oil filled?
does the suspension move freely, or does it just go up a little?

i have multiple cars, and i have never had a solid axle truck before, so any advice would be great!

thanks, and sorry for my stupidity :D

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Adanmtxt1
hey guys

i am just about to get a clodbuster!!! yeah, but i was hoping you could tell me some things-

are the shocks oil filled?
does the suspension move freely, or does it just go up a little?

i have multiple cars, and i have never had a solid axle truck before, so any advice would be great!

thanks, and sorry for my stupidity :D

a. No
b. No or No
c. This truck is not a touring car. Do not expect it will handle like it nor accelerate like it. A lot of torque so be really careful of accelerating the truck. It might flip over. It doesn't like rough road condition where suspension is pushed to the extreme (on stock setup). High center of gravity (read the "it's not a touring car" part). Stock motor is slow but upgrade slowly as to (read above as well)...make sure or get high torque servo (or servos for the 4WS feature). Upgrade to dual motor ESC ASAP, otherwise drastic battery consumption.

Last but not least: If the truck does not come with full ball bearing, GET IT! It improves a lot of the sloppiness in the drivetrain.

[Adanmtxt1]

thanks a ton!! I ordered it on Feb. 7 from my hobby store. I have an E Maxx so i know the basics. One of the guys who works at the shop pulled out a Mad Force RCX edition. Sweeeeet!

does anyone keep their clod stock, or does the stock truck stink?

which ESC? i would love to use only one pack per run, unlike the Emaxx's EVX.

thanks so much.

[egdinger]

I've kept my truck stock, lots of fun for bashing in the snow, but not to great elsewhere. A good esc is the novak super rooster.

[weeb_beano]

I keep a nearly totally stock Clod (just bearings and an ESC) around as a 'guest truck', for those times when bashing with friends who may not be into R/C, or to allow spectators to drive around (and get them hooked to the hobby ;) )

In that state the truck is fun depending who you ask. I guess the best way to describe it... is 'goofy'. It won't have the speed of any *Maxx, but for someone just bashing around- even someone who owns a ton of faster and more powerful modded trucks, a stock Clod has a timeless entertainment value.

As far as an ESC, i'm using a Super Rooster on it. Not the best thing out there in terms of reliability (had 3, 2 suffered from issues, but Novak repaired them, no questions asked). It will let you run from one stick pack, and is the way to go in case you decide to mod the motors out later.

[Adanmtxt1]

I have two more questions (sorry).

Can the stock Manual Speed control handle a 2400 stick pack, or would it fry? if not, run times?

With the Super Rooster and a 2400 stick pack, how long would run times range?

thanks so much. i am picking the clod up in 3 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[weeb_beano]

The manual ESC should be able to take a 2400 or 3000 pack just fine. Heck, it could operate almost indefinitely at full throttle. The problem however is how well it handles first and second speeds... which... it doesn't do too well on.

If driven for too long at first and second speeds the resistor gets really hot and can burn out. I've done that a few times in the past (when i ran my 'guest clod' for myself) but exclusively use an ESC nowadays.

As far as how long it lasts per pack... i'm not too sure. I get about 7 minutes or so on a 1500 pack i think, but i haven't measured it accurately. That truck tends to get a pile of cheap 1500 sticks (in a bowling ball bag) all to itself :)

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey, guys: thanks so much for the help.

I am getting the truck set up with a Futaba 2ER radio, ball bearings, and am planning on a Super Rooster for playing around.

Ill take the EVX out of my EMaxx for racing purposes.

as soon as the body is done, ill put some pics up.

thanks again

-ad R

[minijosh]

I just gutted my stock clod of its axles and now I'm gonna give her some bearings that she is in need of. What brand to go for now? I've looked alot on clod talk and many companies make bearing sets. Alot of them only sell 20 while other's sell 24. The clod chassis is getting ditched for a racing chassis. Which one to get? Not sure yet though but keeping my eyes open. I want a racing truck first of all with some crawling abilities if I ever want to chase my dog in the yard. Any help guys?

[howielong]

If you have money burning a hole in your pocket get some acer bearings or boco (baco) some thing like that. Best bearings around.

[hyperstang]

Well..

Here is my racer for this seasons Monster Jam here in Hawaii. I did race an Xtreme clod with TTR bottom links and this thing kicked butt. Thought I'd try a full on TTR Ripper this year and see how I do. Along side the bad MOD CLOD is my TLT Rock Climber with imex pullers.

Race on...

[Adanmtxt1]

hey hyperstang, nice trucks! does the TLT 1 work well?

hey guys, i finished my clod, and its awesome!! torque galore!
is it normal to not have tons of steering on a stock clod? my savage ss has a fair amount more, and so does my emaxx.

is the ripper a good chassis, and does it have good articulation? what are some reccomended aftermarket chassis?

minijosh: Duratrax has fairly good bearings, and they make a set for the clod for 29.99 at tower hobbies (part #LXD017)

[mavrick0]

Chassis depends on what you want to do. I have a Ripper and love it but then again I race it which is what it was designed for but it still does have a lot of articulation.

A stock clod steering sucks. There is too much play because of all the links and the stock servo saver set up. A couple of fixes are to tighen the saver on the gearbox down tight and put the short link in the furthest hole from the gearbox not to mention a high torque servo would help to. But this is why most guys mount the servo on the front gearbox for better steering.

[Adanmtxt1]

i have seen the steering servo out in front of the axle. is the ripper durable? it's carbon fibre so i guess it might be, but aluminum seems to be a standard

how much is a Ripper, and where do i get one?

[minijosh]

www.thundertechracing.com has the ripper I think. or try www.rc4wd.com or there is always www.rcguy.com hehe. tons of sites with monster truck stuff.

[WDGuy]

Ok, I just locked the rear diff in my clod with super glue, and this son-of-a-gun is LOUD!!! Sometimes the transmission locks-up when I stop and go again. What do you think the problem is?? Should I just get the aluminum lockers off of ebay?

[mavrick0]

You probably didn't glue it perfectly and it's not running true so there's a point where it binds up. Best bet is get the locked aluminum diff gear. I do all my own locked diffs with JB weld and sell them as well and trust me you have to be very, very precise when you do it. When mine are done I use a dial gauge like one used when testing cams or crank shafts to see how out of round the bearing races are and spin mine to make sure they don't wobble and cause what has happened to yours.

When the diff is locked properly the gearbox should be no louder then it was stock and everything should spin just as free as stock.

[rustlerman1]

Has anyone broke a axle tube befor, well i did yester day when i was rock krawling.it broke right at the part where the knuckle get screwed in to.and also broke a knuckle

[mavrick0]

Trust me if you haven't broken a tube or knuckle then you must own a shelf queen or only drive it on sunday on an open parking lot. It happens whether you are crawling, bashing or racing.

[rustlerman1]

ok.but how often will i break them if i have magnetic mayhems, 9t pinions and a super rooster and mostly rock krawling?

[mavrick0]

Rarely... If you do it will probably because of a hard long roll down a rock hill or something.

[WDGuy]

Well, I put some white lithium grease in my diff, and it is running smooth now. I just put some 17x2 Team Orion's in it, and it hauls but. I was jumping it of a speed bump the other day and broke a rear lower shock mount.

[cummins driver]

I love the clods, and im building my own clod chassis right now. I have a few questions for you guys.
1) Would it be possible to use my duratrax auto-sport intellispeed ESC(will handle 20 turn and up) with stock motors, or would it not work. I dont want to fry it, but i would love to be able to use it when i get everything set up.
2) will i need to run it in paralell or series, and why?
3) Will a clod with stock motors wheelie off the line? Just curious.lol
4) Can you change pinion gears with stock setup?
5) Does the steering servo mount on the front of the front axle? In other words, Will i have to build a mount for it?

I need to buy a roller clod off ebay sometime, after i sell my gas truck, and i will start building the rest of it. How fast is a stock clod. Im not worried about it bieng fast, I am just curious. Thanks for any help

Eric

[hyperstang]

When it comes to running dual motors, I would probably invest in an ESC that can handle dual motors. I currently run my Ripper with 8 single flatline D5 Baby!!!!. this combo makes my ripper clod one of the top competitors at the clod races. I run a Novak super chicken with that one, running in parralel. The Manager of the shop, runs a GT7 Novak, running parralel and with East Coast 13D motors and with the right gearing, he can smoke some guys running 6 single D5's.

The Intellispeeds are good, but out of the 10+ racers there, I don't know anyone running an intellispeed. Mainly Tekins (if you can find them) and the Novak.

There is only one clod right now that I know of that can actualy pull a small wheelie with a clod, but that is with a fresh, fully charged, MATCHED BATTERY pack. Maybe pulling wheelies with the first blips of the controller. Beleive you me....there are some serious Mod Clods happening down here in the Island of Oahu in Hawaii. If your ever in paradise...Come check us out. Our season runs all year, with a Finals twice a year. Pretty nutz.

I am working on a third mod clod, but not a clod. A TTR Ripper TXT 1 is in the works for this years finals.....

Race on....

[hyperstang]

By the way..

Never ever in my 3 years racing the Monster Jam, have I broken an axle tubes. I know of only two clods that have broke them while takin one of our ramps at a bad angle and landing just plain wrong.

But maybe rock climbing, you would frequently break an axle tube. I think Thunder Tech sells the Derlin axle tubes which are said to be unbreakable.

Race on....

[cummins driver]

Thanks a lot for the help hyperstang. About the ESC though, im not planning on upgrading motors, and if i cant run that ESC, ill have to find a stock MSC for it because i dont want to drop that kind of cash an ESC. It would probably at least be 1 year before i upgraded to a better ESC/motors. I am also planning on hooking up a small cooling fan to it too, and puttin it on the esc to keep it cool. So, could i run this esc with stock motors, and not have to worry to much about it? Also, would I have to run in paralell or series to the motors? Also, i cant remember how each one goes to the motors, so help on that is appreciated. Thanks a lot. If Im ever in Hawaii, I would definatley try to check it out;) .What about the steering servo too(where it mounts)?

Eric

[hyperstang]

I think that ESC running with stock is good. The fan would help alot, but I don't think it is needed. If you are crawling, then no need, but if you plan on doing speed passes where holding down the throttle for a long pass, then a fan maybe called for.

Just remember, with the clod, the rear needs to be wire opposite of the front to run the same direction as the front. Running in parralel is the best route, series, you will need two seperate ESC's powering each motor....or vice versa.

Hope that helps...

Race on...

[cummins driver]

Thanks hyperstang. That helps a lot. Im not posotive that im gonna build one, but if i do, then i at least know more about it. Im either gonna build one, or sell theframe on ebay if i can get anything out of it. I hate to bug you about it, but could you(or someone else) explain more about how i would wire it in paralell? Do i run the 2 wires off the esc to 1 motor, then from that motor to the other, or what? Also, the esc has a thermal shutdown thing where if it gets too hot it will shut down, so i should be fine on that, but i think ill still run a fan, and hook it up on a switch so i can use it whenever i want, and maybe put it on a seperate 9v battery or something. Thanks for the help. Ill let you know how it goes.

Eric

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey guys! I just got finished wiring a super rooster with parallel motors and parallel (2) batteries, and I have an EVX for racing. they both work fantastically!

I have a question: Thunder Tech Ripper or JPS Pro Chassis?

I want to fit 2 battery packs, and i am not sure if i can fit 2 in the Ripper. Ripper is carbon fiber, JPS is aluminum. I like the aluminum, but am not sure if the JPS has the articulation like the ripper.

both are nice, but does the JPS have the ripper's articulation?

[mavrick0]

I would say the Ripper but only because I have one and know exactly how they are and how good they are. The JPS I still say is outdated, over priced and not in the same league as any of the new chassis's out there now. I wish RCCA would do another comparison of all the Clod chassis's out there now and just see how low on the list the JPS Pro places.

But I would also advise against using dual packs specially for racing. One 540 motors can not handle anything above 8 cells without dying fast. So EVX at 14.4v you will get one or two races out of them and then it's rebuild time. The racers actually only use a max of 7 cells for 4-5min heats with 12-14 turn motors which is sufficient enough and you don't have to rebuild the motor after every heat. You have to keep in mind the power to weight ratio. Once you start hitting 8 cells or so the added weight starts hindering your top speed and runtime because you are always pulling all the weight around. If you need longer runtimes then you want to start looking at 3300mah packs.

[Adanmtxt1]

I was leaning towards the ripper anyways! I have had an Emaxx, and sold it, but kept the EVX for myself, so I just have it laying around. I thought it might be nice to put it to good use.

is there any way to mount a sencond battery in the ripper?

Also, would you be willing to tell me your setup with your ripper? any help would be greatly appreciated.

how much articulation can you get? pics???! :)

[mavrick0]

My Ripper is set up for racing even though I do run it for fun just because it is fun to run. Setup is AE blue 1.02" shocks with blue aluminum shock caps, standard pistons, 30wt synthetic oil, silver springs and shock socks. I'm running a pair of 13T Orion Rush motors tuned and timed. Novak Tempest Pro ESC with a Novak Polaris RX and a JR XR2 controller sending the signals. I use a JR 8411 Digital high torque metal geared servo mounted on a JPS bumper over the standard TTR one. TTR extra wide wideners with TXT wheels and hand shaved Clod tires. Team Blue Star rubber sealed bearings all around with GPM aluminum steering knuckles, with a locked rear diff. And all topped of with a Pro-line Burb body. I only usually run 6-7cells since this is the best setup for the kind of racing I do.

If you stick with the stock sway bar kit you can run another battery in one of the holes through the chassis and velcro strap it to one of the cross members but the hole is a full battery width higher then the normal location so you've just raised the CG by doing so and will change your handling and how well it will take corners before it rolls.

One thing about the EVX is you won't be able to run low turn motors on it considering it is only recommended to 17T 550 sized motors. 540 motors of the same wind will pull more current then the 550 so you will more then likely put the ESC in thermal shut down hopefully before you cook it. You are actually better off with an SR.

As for pics here are a few.
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Burb%20Ripper.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Burb%20Ripper%2017.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Suburban%20Ripper4.JPG
http://members.rogers.com/mavrick0/images/Suburban%20Ripper5.JPG

[Adanmtxt1]

holy cow! that is probably the most awesome clod i have ever seen!! I love the way solid axle suspension works! yeah, i am going to go get a ripper now... thank you so much for the pics and the set up!

can you get the axles to be perpendicular to each other (or is that hard to do)?

(i never thought anyone could get the suburban body to look good. that is an insanely awesome bod)

[mavrick0]

I'm not sure how much more articulation I can get. I kind of meant to add at the last pics that that was max articulation with the AE 1.02"(3.5") shocks. Putting 4" shocks will probably get a lot more out of the suspension but not sure if it will get 90 degree's. I might have to try that out and see how much more I can get. I know Hua from RC4WD used his Tremor as a crawler with 4" shocks which gets you more ground clearance and suspension travel.

[Adanmtxt1]

so...

are there any rock crawling courses in illinois? i am going to make one in my back yard once the weather gets considerably better and consistent. i just finished breaking in my savage ss. sweet!!!

[losi racer13]

how can u go in the water and snow with a vlod without getting the stuff wet like motors

[Adanmtxt1]

with my experiences, the motors don't really suffer that much with the puddles and even really wet roads, or even mud. I dont know about snow, though. seems like a bad idea. you can make a makeshift skidplate out of lexan or metal.

or you could just try it out with some mabuchi stock motors :D .

[badtodabone]

I love clodbusters! I got mine for 93bucks! It now has a custom tbue frame and is a all out crawler.It also has front and rear locked diffs Check out
www.freewebs.com/customclods and
www.freewebs.com/rccrawling:)

[badtodabone]

heres a pic

[Adanmtxt1]

lookin' good, badtodabone!

looks like you outfitted the truck with savage shocks, right?

the red chassis looks solid too. :cool:

93 bucks, eh? what motors and which ESC do you have in there?

[27T]

I am by no means new to this hobby, however i hung up my pistol grips over 8 yr ago. I recently have renewed interest in RC and posted all of my old stuff for sale, including my clod. I thoght by now the clod would be a thing of the past and no longer available, so i want to go to BIG nitro, then i find this forum! It kinda makes me want keep old red, but the only chassis that was available was clodzilla and now you guys are talking about rock crawlers and all kinds of other neat stuff! could you let me know who the best hop ups come from now? especialy chassis.:confused:

[badtodabone]

I built the roll cage but bought the clod stock for 93 bucks.
Here is how it looked when i bought it.

[mavrick0]

27T go to www.rc4wd.com and you will see pretty much all the chassis's that are available to you as well as a lot of goodies for the truck too. Also check out www.inetrc.com and there are some nice chassis's there as well. But there is a lot out there now compared to when there was only the Clodzilla line.

[RCMTRA Pres.]

Hi Everyone, Tony Here:

I own a few ClodBuster Kits and getting more. The Clod is the best Electric Monster Truck kit out there. Everyone who doesn't have one must get one ASAP. You can do soo much with that kit and it's unbelievable. There are so many after market parts manufacturers out there for this kit that it can be constructed to do many things and you can enter it in many different competitions.

This truck kit does not get the recognition it deserves within the R/C Magazines out there. Lots of clubs promote Clodbuster racing within different formats. Weather its pulling, rock crawling, and /or Monster Truck Racing.

I am President of the R/CMTRA = Radio Control Monster Truck Racing Association. We are based out of New York. If anyone has ever heard of us. Our goal is to produce the best in R/C Monster Truck Racing with the Clod kit. We also bring realism to scale. Just log into: R/CMTRA (http://hometown.aol.com/rcmtra/myhomepage/index.html)
Once in check out the 2003 World Finals pic's link and tell me if the event was not to scale realism. This didn't make it to any Mag for publishing. This will soon change (God Willing). We have been working very hard in getting R/C Magazine backing for events like ours. It seems that we here at RCX Entertainment - Motorsports Group & R/CMTRA have made some head way in that issue. We look forward to an exciting 2004 racing season and future. We hope to show all the R/C Monsters that are out there great action pic's of some great racing involving the Clodbuster kit.

Support the CLODBUSTER kit and Tamiya. With Tamiya's backing, being that they were the creators of this great kit they should be more involved with the events promoting there kit. Hope to work with Tamiya and other manufacturers in this exciting and growing sport of Clodbuster Racing.

Tony - R/CMTRA Pres.
rcmtra@aol.com

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey, I have a clod! I don't know about everybody else (maybe I am just stupid) but I like the look of a stock clod. Old design, technology, and styling. The ripper is boss, though performance-wise and overall style-wise. Carbon fiber, and if you get purple or blue washers and screws, you can make it look super tricky!!

[ltz400]

Heres my new clod i just assembled.I got most of the parts in a trade with a guy on eBay.It had a new in package Clodzilla 3 chassis and the bearing gearboxes and some other stuff.I placed and order at Tower and got a new Super Rooster ESC-Trinity Speed Gems 17T Amber motors-Asscociated Maxx shocks (8)-Hitec 625MG servo-Team Orion 3000mAh batts-Deans connectors-Proline Chevy body and some new chrome rims with USA-1 tires with foams.Im still waitng on the steering components and bumpers so i have'nt been able to run it yet but i bet it will run pretty decent.i always wanted a Clod ever since they came out but i didnt really want a stock one.The after market chassis are the only way to go in my opinion.Now my little TLT-1 has a BIG brother!What do you think?

[badtodabone]

nice

[4wdmt]

question guys, i am planning to buy the new release super clod buster and im thinking, is it worth keeping/running it stock? or is it much better to find a modified clod from ebay? thank you for any input.

[Adanmtxt1]

That't pretty cool looking. How are the USA-1 tires in comparison to the stock Clod tires? Are the foam inserts completely necessary? I rock crawl without em.
-I thought the Clodzilla had cantilever suspension. Why the direct mount?

Paint??! :( :eek:

4wdmt: the stock clod is cool in its own right, with its old school tech and looks. but... go for a mod clod!! better suspension, cooler looks, adjustable, and you can drive it practically anywhere. rock crawling anyone?? :D

[4wdmt]

thank you. so, if ever, might as well go for the crawler clod. BTW, is it true that stock plastic parts are easily break?

[Adanmtxt1]

in some instances, no. Tamiya's plastic axle tubes tend to be pretty strong. I have broken a couple, though (rock crawling), but that is over a pretty rough course. aluminum will not bend and then go back to its original shape. once it's bent its bent.

[ltz400]

Thanks for the compliments.The Clodzilla4 has cantilevers-i have a 3.But you can buy the cant kit for the 3.I have my motors wired in series with only about 4 minutes of run time-granted they are 17 turn motors but i was expecting a little more run time.I have two Team Orion 3000 mAh nm batteries charging them at 3.5 amps with the peak thresh set at 50 on an MRC Superbrain.I have 13 tooth pinions also-should i wire them in parallel?
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated

[vintage_steeps]

I have a clodzilla i picked up on e bay how do i get picks up ? i also have a stock clod f/s or trade

[RCMTRA Pres.]

Vintage Steeps writes;

I have a clodzilla i picked up on e bay how do i get picks up ? i also have a stock clod f/s or trade

Vintage,
Keep your clods and build more....Clods need to be re-generated and raced. This is why The R/CMTRA sanctions races with the clod kits. Show the World that the clod kit can be very competitive just as any other truck kit. Show the new kids on the block how much fun one can have with a clod kit. The truck is not only for bashing, it can be built up to compete. Don't part with the clodbuster make it better. If your looking to race your clod Check out my site and maybe you'll change your mind...
http://hometown.aol.com/rcmtra/myhomepage/index.html (Paste and click)

Tony

[Adanmtxt1]

First of all, Itz400: You can try to get more run time by charging at around 3.0 to 2.7 Amps, but I prefer to wire my batteries in parallel. I can run one OR two packs, and I get plenty of run time (granted, I run Mabuchi motors most of the time. I have run 19 T motors, but I am just as happy with the Mabuchis, plus I get run time). But first try different charging rates.

Second, RCMTRA Pres.: I love RC cars. In particular, I love the Clod. I race 'em, rock crawl 'em, and just bash 'em. I have sold an E-Maxx, and then bought my first Clod. You write: "Keep your clods and build more....Clods need to be re-generated and raced." HUSH!!! If the clods weren't popular enough, they would have been taken out of production a long time ago. SINCE 1987 have clods been around. CLODS TEND TO DEMOLISH ANY OTHER ELECTRIC MT IN RACES!!! (at least, this is my experiece). People know the clods kick butt, and they should be able to sell 'em or trade 'em as they please. (I would now like to apoligize for coming off with an edge. I sometimes listen to too many late night radio psychologists who abuse their callers.) :D :D :D :D

Third, Vintage Steeps: Hows about ya put some there pics of yer clod on 'is 'er inernet?

[RCMTRA Pres.]

Adanmtxt1,

You wrote; HUSH!!! If the clods weren't popular enough, they would have been taken out of production a long time ago. SINCE 1987 have clods been around. CLODS TEND TO DEMOLISH ANY OTHER ELECTRIC MT IN RACES!!! (at least, this is my experiece). People know the clods kick butt, and they should be able to sell 'em or trade 'em as they please. (I would now like to apoligize for coming off with an edge. I sometimes listen to too many late night radio psychologists who abuse their callers.)

The Clod kit was once considered to have been removed from the market by Tamiya. At this point and time the clod is the most popular truck created by Tamiya. If Tamiya were to pull the Clod kit we'd all be stuck due to the lacking of parts if it were stopped being produced. To Quote your experience, the clod can be beat by any other truck out there. To my experience i've seen the Clod get it's butt kicked by The USA - 1, remember that truck? Though, it had it's problems with the gearing it still seemed to handle itself better than the clod. But, over the years the clod seemed to have improved itself with the aftermarket parts now available. The whole picture has to be looked at by Tamiya if ever they decided to pull the Clod kit. What will the after market companies do with all those after market Clod parts???? I'm sure they somehow consider that situation. (Apology accepted.) It's ok, it's clod talk.....lol...
I guess if one wishes to trade or sell their clod it's only because the lack of competition out there for the truck kit....That is where the problem lands.....The Clod kits are very popular out in the midwest due to the Monster Truck Fanatics out there...I'm one myself, but it's just lacking in certain parts of the country...(New York)...So, in conclusion i know that before the Clod kit is revoked something way better has to take it's place and for now there is nothing out there that can....

Tony - R/CMTRA Pres.

[cummins driver]

I have never even seen a clod in person, but it doesent take a genius to figure out that they are an awesome truck. They go slow for awesome torque, they have dual motors on the axles for low center of gravity, and they have huge tires, and most of all, SOLID AXLES! True monster trucks, and heavy duty real trucks all have solid axle suspension for good reason. Independent suspension has its advantages, but i like solid axles. I think you guys should have sled pulling competitions for the clods, or do you already? I have been to 1 where they pulled all T-MAXXES, and it was neat, but i would love to see the clods do that. I dont have a clod, just because I dont want to drop the money on one, and i like some speed too, without spending big money for it, but the clod is a worthy kit, no doubt.

Eric

[Adanmtxt1]

I believe you when you say the USA-1 is a fast, possibly better truck, but I have never seen the two race side by side. I have seen one run by itself before. BEEFY!!!

I agree with you, though, on the "lack of competition" level. I barely get to race anyone else with a clod. I really wish there were more in the Chicago IL area. I have a friend with a Traxxas Stampede (electric). Do you think that the Stampede is a true MT? I don't. Whoops, CLOD forum! :D anyway, we need to get some new pics on this forum. anyone?? I'll put some on in a bit. :)

[vintage_steeps]

This is my 135.00 e bay investment. stretching its legs

[vintage_steeps]

I did in fact sell the clod i had the spare one at least. I have the clodzilla still. Im thinking i will buy a gecko 2. Oh and unfortunately there is no place to race or compete with these as i in fact live in NYC . I actually e mailed tekin seeing as they are reopening. I think that opening the first indoor track in nyc (Manhattan ) would make huge news in the rc world as there is not even 1 in the city or surrounding buroughs and rc is much bigger out here then everyone thinks. There are a bunch of hobby shops but they would do a lot better if there was a place to race . Also the track would make a killing , most people who live in Manhattan have money or at least there parents have money. I have a bunch of cars and i have never raced even once. By the way the stampede is truely a real mt .I know its off the subject but the stampede is a true mt . A few mods and it is unbreakable i have burnt t maxxes e maxxes and terra crushers with mines and it 2 wheel drive. Well i hope to post more pics when i get the gecko chassis .

Oh by the way what chassis do you guys prefer i here the gecho is king of articulation but sucks for racing . Does a cantilever system give you more articulation or is it just show. ? Should i just get savage shocks for my car ? Will savage shocks fit ? Thanks everyone!!!

[vintage_steeps]

Oh i checked out that website. cool i had no idea people where running there trucks in Pelham park. I used to live near by but now im way far. Do you guys just junp fake cars or do you actually have some sort of off road track ? E mail me at vintage_steeps@yahoo.com maybe we can meet up.

chris

[cummins driver]

double posted

[RCMTRA Pres.]

Vintage,

Check you e-mail. I sent you one. So, yeah if your looking to race your clod just let me know. The more the merrier....lol...The monthly races (R/CPRO - MT Series) is a gathering of some of us who enjoy hanging out picnicing, goofing around, and just enjoying the day of racing. This worked out well being that after a hards day work or for the month we can actually enjoy ourselves racing and chilling out....So, again if your interested let me know...

Tony - R/CMTRA Pres.

[cummins driver]

The stampede is definatley a true monster truck. I really like mine, and that thing is unbreakable! It also goes really good for a 2wd. I hardly ever get it hung up, unless i get in really tall grass or something. Why would you not consider it a true MT? Its just like any other MT, except its 2wd. It also has more ground clearance than a lot of trucks. It has about 2 inches under the gearbox, and about 4 inches right in the middle of the chassis, and has good articulation. I can get a 12oz pop can of articulation on either back wheel, but i dont think i can on the front.

Eric

[vintage_steeps]

I really wish you guys where closer . Pelham is just to far and my work scheduale is to crazy to really scheduale anything. Im hoping one of these rc related manufacturers will open a track of some sort in Manhattan. It would be perfect because there are hobby shops in every city around it . I dont think people realise how big the hobby is in NYC . Hence not even 1 official race track offroad or on. Anyway back to the clod stuff! I was wondering what you guys think about cantilever systems? Do they really give you more articulation? Also what do you guys think about the gecho chassis? oh ! MORE IMPORTANTLY I have an evx in my clod 2 3000 orion batt and the stock motors. However i ran it today and it got so hot that the connectors nearly melted on to one another ? Whats going on here i thought that it would be an easy load for an esc that usually handles 550"s ? Can anyone help me here?

[mavrick0]

The Pede is not considered a true MT for the same reason the Maxx type trucks are, they are not solid axles. Which is what the true definition of an MT is. And also it's only 2wd. So it's only a stadium truck on steriods just as the maxx's are 4wd buggies on steriods. The only true MT's are the Clod, Bullhead, TXT, Jugg, Twin Force, Mad Force, XTM, etc. If it has a pair of solid axles on it with large over sized tires then it's an MT. Reason I state the over sized tires is because there are still the bruiser/mountaineers that have a pair of solid axles but aren't a MT with the 2.2 tires on them.

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey maveric0, I'm with you all the way!! I feel the stampede is more of a toy than a true-to-life mt. It is pretty cool for a toy, but it just doesn't make the cut. ( i disagree though, b/c it is a TOY mt).

vintage_steeps: For your question on articulation, it really and truely depends. If you mount cantilevers, you can indeed get awesome articulation, and you can vary the amount by the geometry of the cantilever. However, you can get a ton of articulation with the shocks mounted directly on the links, as is the case with the Gecko and the Thunder Tech Ripper. If you work with multiple designs and you test various mounting locations, you can get an extraordinary amount of travel with out the additional hardware that the cantilevers add. I like the Ripper AND the Gecko. Gecko= rock crawling, Ripper=racing. If you want to crawl, do NOT get the Ripper. It has a low CG design that mounts everything low, and it does not provide the truck with the ground clearance that is so very necessary for rock crawling.

also, the 540 motors draw a lot of current, and the EVX works with a lot of power. try a SUper rooster with 1 ( or 2 in parallel) battery (ies) with the motors in series. thats how mine are wired (with stock mabuchi 540 motors) and i get pretty good rt and power.

[cummins driver]

Well, if your gonna go that way about it, then I bet my stampede has more articulation than a stock clod does. The stock clod chassis' are junky looking, and they DO look like a toy because of the way the chassis looks. The stampede is not a toy by any means. Mine climbs very good, and has awesome ground clearance. I like the clod, but if your gonna bash a pede, then i gotta bash back.

[RCMTRA Pres.]

A Stampede is more of a truck used for tough truck competition which is another type of racing we promote. (This coming August 28 & 29 we will sanction a race at Jackson R/C Raceway in Jackson, New Jersey.) Check my site for the event flyer.

Cantilever : is ok, i use to use that in my clods but i had to also use sway bars because the lever was kind of weak. The sways would bend and throw the truck off on it suspensions. A Straight up & down set up would best suit a persons need and try different set ups just don't take my word for it. its best for you to try different things and test them.

Tony

[vintage_steeps]

Sup everyone? Thanks for the input. Hopefully i can get some more. First, About the esc w/540 motors. I bought the evx because i thought hey e maxx big truck 550 motors and 2 batteries , perfect setup. Now i have to melted plugs and i think i almost burnt the esc? How is this even possible? Dont the 550 draw more then 540? I am by no means a pro at this but i have had like 50 cars in 2 years and that means a lot of esc'c and wiring. lol I never thought this would have been a problem.
On the cantilever thing, well i think im just going to buy the gecho . I dont think buying the pieces to attach the shocks to the suspension and then buying cantilever to try that is worth it. Figure i will just sell the chassis is have which works great but if im gonna go im going all the way lol. FINALLY lol. So what do you guys think is the perfect setup ? stock 540 motors dual batteries? Single battery mod motors? I really just want that torqe . (speed is nice to though lol) Thanks everyone.

chris

[badtodabone]

heres my truck all painted and polished. i just got a new body and some ram offroad lights

[badtodabone]

one more

[ltz400]

Heres a pic of my two electric trucks.First i bought the TLT-1 and then HAD to have the Clod.These two trucks got me BACK into electrics after having and still running nitro trucks for the past 7 years.They are both awesome trucks-Thanks Tamiya!

[ltz400]

Heres all of my trucks.I just completely rebuilt the Nitro Stampede.I relpace $185 dollars worth of parts.Everything from the front to back was replaced other than the tires which were still good.I bough this truck new in 91' so it was pretty much worn out.Now its better than new.I should get another 13 years out of it-by then replacement parts will be non-existent

[ltz400]

Heres a body-off pic of my rebuilt Nitro Stampede.I've had so much fun with this truck since i bought it in'91.I thought it deserved a second chance so its been resurected.It now better than when it was new.

[mavrick0]

Well, if your gonna go that way about it, then I bet my stampede has more articulation than a stock clod does. The stock clod chassis' are junky looking, and they DO look like a toy because of the way the chassis looks. The stampede is not a toy by any means. Mine climbs very good, and has awesome ground clearance. I like the clod, but if your gonna bash a pede, then i gotta bash back.

You are comparing apples and oranges again. An idependent truck is going to have more articulation to a point but what holds them back is where the diff sits doesn't raise up and down like a solid axle so that is what gets caught up on the rocks. Hence the reason in the real world guys use solid axle trucks for real rock crawling and they are much stronger and less moving parts.

RCMTRA Pres. has it right though it is a tough truck style of truck, not an MT, but not a ST. And trust me I'm not bashing the Pede. I have 2 and have built 4 and giving the other two away to friends. They are a fun little truck but no means can go or do what a real solid axle MT can do like a Clod or TXT.

[Adanmtxt1]

Maveric0, you are on the ball with this one. The diff cannot move, and this is what tends to limit it. I am sorry if I came off bashing the 'pede; my friend's was able to outrun what used to be my emaxx (sold it). he had a trinity D4 in it. It tended to break alot though. the front caster blocks snapped all the time. I almost never have that prob with my gecko clod, and it always gets a workout.

who here thinks the TXT-1 is a good truck?

[cummins driver]

Yeah, it has its limits, but I still personally think its a real MT just because anything with big tires, and good ground clearence/articulation is considered a MT to me. I know that a solid axle truck might be a "true" MT, but i still think the independintley sprung trucks are MT's too; just a different type. I just kind of got a little hot when i read that.lol I have never broken anything on my pede but the idler gear, so i know they are reliable trucks. I like the TXT-1. I think its the best electric MT out of the box myself.

Eric

[Adanmtxt1]

I have an HPI Nitro MT with some masher 2000's on the stock hpi black rims. it uses independent suspension, and gets fine ground clearance, but it is really more of an st. my mt competes with some pedes where i race, and they (pedes) get taken to town each and every time.

i know the txt-1 is a sweet truck, but can i get a comparison between it and the clod? which is better? i want one baaad!
(as soon as i get my digital camera working, ill take pics and put my gecko on this forum. maybe my nitro mt, too.

[mavrick0]

Between the Clod and TXT out of the box the TXT cleans up but once you figure the price of the TXT vs. the cost of a Clod axle kit and say a Gecko chassis they are roughly the same cost and the Clod will walk all over the TXT. The TXT is nice and more realistic of course with being a shaft driven truck and doesn't run into the problem of motor stall the clod does but the clod puts more power to the ground with the motors in the gearboxes and a lot less moving parts to go boom like a drive shaft as well as a lower CG because of the gearboxes.

[Adanmtxt1]

do any of you guys have a TXT-1? I was wondering what kind of articulation i could expect to see from it. I could never expect as much as my Gecko produces, but canilevers would be cool to see in action! I still love my gecko. I might sell my Savage SS (practically new, 8 tanks) in order to buy a new TXT-1.

[badtodabone]

heres one more pic of my truck at night

[Adanmtxt1]

That's pretty cool lookin'. Are those lights that i see mounted on the front? And a thunder tech bumper? AND Dual batteries? nice :cool:

[4wdmt]

Adanmtxt1, with your username, i thought you already have a txt-1 :D . with regards to your articulation question, i might say: one tire can go up to 8 inches (more or less). thats with the zip ties of the sway bar all the way down. some even take it off for more articulation. i down own a gecko clod, so i can't compare. for me, an out of the box STOCK txt-1 is already a very capable crawler and climber. just replace the MSC with a speedo, your set. with the tamiya quality on all the parts, you will enjoy building the kit. you may always upgrade it for hi-speed racing/bashing or for hardcore crawling as time goes by. check out the txt-1 thread for some cantilever articulation.

clodbuster guys, i have some Q's:
what can a stock clodbuster do?
how fast can it go?
what are necessary "performance" upgrades?
what parts easily break?
thanks for any input guys. i am still having second thoughts of buying a clod if i will end up just with the gearcase. with my budget, i always get overbid for a modclod at ebay :) .

badtothebone, very nice truck indeed.

[Adanmtxt1]

coincidentally enough, i almost got a txt-1 a year ago, but then decided to save my money. who knew i would want one a year later? go figure.

as for your q's,:

1) not much. about 1 inch of single wheel articulation, no oil shocks = bumpy ride.
2) stock msc: sloooowww! EVX: emaxx-fast
3) a new chassis. (no i am not joking)
4) I have broken an axle tube before, but thats about it.

consider getting the axles only. there's not much to do with the stock clod, but it always looks kinda neat, considering its designs hasn't really been changed since 1987. :eek:

[RC Rodder]

Well this started as a King blackfoot and clodbuster Gearbox's.
Now has turned into a Scale monster from well YOU KNOW!!!

The body is made up of 2 King Blackfoot bodies, 4 Clodbuster Fender Wells and everything either shaved or pancaked to make it smooth.

Molding the body was the easy part however the hard part was adding the Clodbuster Openings to look as though they belong.
Hours went into getting it just right, then creating a shape to the bottom of the body to get the Rockers to look correct was alot of fun... But hey now its done...Yeah..

The Frame is a custom Welded frame by My Self and SpyderWeb R/C... There is almost 45 feet of metal kind of in the frame. Actually give or take a few, The frame is made to fit the body to a Tee and to scale. Including the Open Bed on the Hard body the Frame rails line the bed perfectly. The interior of the cab rails are also perfect and there is only 1/8th inch difference between the Frame and the body making it a perfect fit..... Below the frame consists of a mix of three different Real Monster trucks, including Bulldozer, Gravedigger and Easy Rider.... Giving it the scale appearence that everyone expects from me..... Gotta lot to live up to LOL.

The Inside details include, Fuel Cell with Fuel lines running back to the Motor, Fully Detailed Parma Hemi with all oil line fuel lines and Wiring finished as well as a Scale looking starter being worked on currently. The interior of the beast features a Hand made and formed Seat with custom Sprayed paint to give the appearance of FiberGlass the Dash is done in the Same fashion and has an Open top Stearing wheel borrowed from a monster Beetle for apperence. Has full lexan panels custom cut to fit as well as Poly Styrene aluminum look alike panels for Firewall.
Decals for sponsors added as well.

Shocks are Traxxas Maxx shocks with custom hand made mounts
That use a spring and brass collar to prevent any side to side sway from the Gearbox's. Pics will be added to our website as well as a full discription soon I hope.

The bottom shock mounts are hand shaped aluminum as well as hand formed aluminum Bumpers/mounts front and rear polished to a high shine. Links on the Gearbox's are Precision made to keep the truck straight.

Gearbox and motors are Clodbuster Gearbox's with locked Diffs front and Rear full bearings and the Gears on the interior are custom cut to make spinnning of gears smoother with no noise.
Custom Aluminum Center Mounts for links where then added as well as aluminum bars to stablize the braces in case of accidents.
Motors are Balanced and tuned Speed Gems ONYX 14 turn Double motors with Bearings and seraded brushes.

All and all this project in the pics is not quite done, and I have been working on this for a couple of months in my Spare time.
Completed pics will be added later or soon to show the finished project.

Tires are stock TXT-1 Tires and has also on the Gearbox's TXT-1 Outdrives with TXT-1 Wideners custom Drilled to match to the Imex Chrome Clod rims.

Hope everyone likes and I did not bore you with all the details..

On to the pics
http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v131/rcmonsterxtreme.com/150f1.jpg
http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v131/rcmonsterxtreme.com/150f5.jpg
http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v131/rcmonsterxtreme.com/150f3.jpg
http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v131/rcmonsterxtreme.com/150f4.jpg
http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v131/rcmonsterxtreme.com/150f2.jpg

If anyone has questions about the build up feel free to ask or email me for more details
SpyderWebRC@hotmail.com

Thanks
Tom

[RC Rodder]

Maverick Has the right Idea however as of lately even Real Crawlers have been starting to look twoards independent Suspension for the smooth flow of travel.

I personally prefer the feal of the solid axle, but for racing purposes the independent will do a better Job.

And again Maverick is correct on the TXT scale worthyness and with some inventive ideas can be made to be a serious crawler like some have shown.

The Clod again has not changed in 17 years but the ideas that people keep coming up with are unbelievable and will continue to grow well into the future.

Thanks guys
Tom

[badtodabone]

That's pretty cool lookin'. Are those lights that i see mounted on the front? And a thunder tech bumper? AND Dual batteries? nice :cool:
Yup I won that steering plate from thunder tech in a readers rides contest on clod talk and then striped the paint. The lights are mounted on the cowl of the body and in the headlight cutouts of the body. It has dual batteries but I wore them out so they are trash.

[Adanmtxt1]

Maverick Has the right Idea however as of lately even Real Crawlers have been starting to look twoards independent Suspension for the smooth flow of travel.

I personally prefer the feal of the solid axle, but for racing purposes the independent will do a better Job.

And again Maverick is correct on the TXT scale worthyness and with some inventive ideas can be made to be a serious crawler like some have shown.

i disagree with you saying real crawlers are looking to independent suspensions, mainly because of what we have already said. the drivetrain (more specifically, the diff) limits the suspension action. you can get extremely fluid action and articulation with solid axle, too. but independent does a real nice job for racing. but, solid is pretty good there, too. anyway, nice ride. :cool:

badtodabone; how did you wear the batts out?

[badtodabone]

running it

[Adanmtxt1]

really? i never would have guessed. i mean to say, how long have you had em? i have a pair of 1.5 year old 2400 packs that are still almost as good as the day i got em. what amperage do you charge at? :eek:

[4wdmt]

thanks Adanmtxt1.

[4wdmt]

okay, got a pair of clodbuster gear axles with steering linkages (from ebay). question guys, do you guys lock the diffs on your clod? do you use 4ws also? thanks a lot.

[Adanmtxt1]

I personally do not usually use 4WS, mainly because it makes the vehicle twitchy when you are not rock crawling. I get really nice steering with out it. i have one set of diffs for rock crawling, and another unlocked set for normal use.

[RC Rodder]

Depending on the Style of running you are planning on doing

If I am crawling I may or may not use 4ws but locked diff front and rear works great for crawling and gerneral bashing

sometimes for a race and jump truck I will leave the front diff open depending on track conditions or the type of jump.

Its up to you
Tom

[Adanmtxt1]

RcRodder: you use a locked rear diff and open front for racing? I have never tried it. does it work well? :confused:

[-=ADA$=-]

sorry for not reading the whole thread now ( ill do it some times) but what do you think about getting super clod, to run it only in home on books, and stuff like this, just to crawl, what to make it best crawler?? is it wise inwestment, or should i forget about it??One more thing, what would be cheapest, and i mean cheapest after market chassis available to make it look ( not as good but maybe similar) to yours, and to act as a real crawler??
Thanks

[badtodabone]

you mean this?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGMR9&P=7

[mavrick0]

With all my Clods I run the rear diff locked. Whether it's a my Ripper that I race with or my TXC that I bash with they all have the rear locked, heck even my SS Clod has the rear diff locked. If I was crawling I would have front and rear locked of course. Biggest reason for leaving the front unlocked is the turning issue. If you have it locked your turning it going to really suffer seriously specially in race conditions.

As for 4WS the only Clod I don't have with 4WS is my Ripper and that might even change. But there is a catch to me running 4WS. I run independent rear steering set up to only have like a 30% throw vs. the front having 100%. This reduces the problem of the truck being twitchy or turning so fast you just do a doughnut or rolling over, but it allows for tight turns on those hair pin turns if you haven't set yourself up right for it or want to over take someone on the inside of the turn, or depending on the track to. If you are on a dirt track you can usually slide the rear of the truck around so it's no big deal but on a carpet track of course it won't slide so you will need the rear wheels to help you turn. Again this also takes a lot of practice to get it down right.

In reality buying the full kit isn't worth it unless you really want the body. You can pick up full axles for the a little less and don't have to deal with trying to sell off everything else. Or just buy a used roller off of eBay or the boards and go from there because you are going to throw away the pogo spring shocks, the plastic chassis the body mounts the ladder bars, etc. As for the cheapest aftermarket chassis out there for crawling that looks beautiful is InetRC's chassis. You can see them at www.inetrc.com But they are a nice aluminum chassis with 5/16" links and kyosho 6.8 ball ends vs. the usual 1/4" links and traxxas ball ends. So you are getting a much better chassis in the long run.
http://inetrccom.ntitemp.com/shopping/images/800/product_CLCH002.jpg

[RC Rodder]

Admitted the Inet Frame is an awsome peice so is the Gecko by RC Guy... Both are inexpensive and work awsome for people looking for shear fun on a budget.

The Crawler frames that we do are built more with roll over in mind as well as lightweight and low center of gravity. Some of our frames work in a variety of situations....

Most of the show frames we are producing lately are just that for show and ripping around in a parking lot or on the grass... The Custom Bodies wont take the roll overs LOL....

But on the subject of the Super Clod, Yes basically a stock clod with some minor changes its affordable to get ahold of but like Maverick said it is cheaper to buy the box's seperately or you can buy a cheap roller clod for around 100-150 sometimes even with a radio and ESC for that price....

If you want some more pics of frame ideas email me our cheapy frame with links runs Below $120 shipped and our more expensive scale crawler is in the area of up to $500

We can provide a complete truck minus motors and radio gear ect. For around $300 assembled and shipped to your door. Build time varies depending on what you are after.

Thanks
Tom
SpyderWebRC@hotmail.com
www.rcmonsterxtreme.com

[-=ADA$=-]

so from what you say, im better of by buying axles only, and then getting after market parts, but as you see im new to electric monsters, and i like them very much. I think it would be OK with me also to get it part by part, but i dont know what parts to get, i would like to get like roller with wheels ( as i know theyr expensive), it would be best for me te get lightly moded roller, and than convert it.

[-=ADA$=-]

do you think wheels from big bear ( or something like this are interchangeble??) i found clod parts - front and rear gearboxes chassis, and some parts, i think its what i need, and than maybe clodzilla or what so ever?? i dont know which is cheapest, you know it, and now oyu know what i need.Thanks alot!!

[badtodabone]

hey ada I have a strectched wheelbase clod chasais I can sell ya.

[RC Rodder]

Ada, Clodzillia's work great for bashing and general having fun....

Sassy chassis in my oppinion are heavy and not worth the expense to use other than sitting on a shelf...

You can make your own chassis relitively easy with minimal expence.

But first things first if you buy an after market chassis make sure it comes with aluminum links 8 total on those that is the most important part as buying them new gets sometimes expensive....

Gearbox's again easy to find but make sure they are not trashed or broken up
get a promise of condition as sometimes the Axle tubes can be broke or a crack in the Gearbox half can keep you from finishing your project quickly.

Also if you buy an after market chassis, make sure its one you know of or have heard of sometimes people will put together some aluminum make it look nice and sell it only to find that it is a peice of scrap metal you can use for a book end or table weight...LOL

If you find something you need or want and have questions feel free to email me if you need help.

I do have a Clodzillia III up for sale currently complete minus electronics, the chassis is new and the gearbox's are locked rear open front has Shocks and so on with a heavy duty bumper in the front for serious bashing if you are interested we can talk....

But back to the subject, Look carefully because sometimes what seems to good to be true can cost you more in the long run...

Tom
SpyderWebRC@hotmail
www.rcmonsterxtreme.com

[minijosh]

I just installed bearings into my stock clod. I'm excited to take her out for a spin and a roll over.

[-=ADA$=-]

and do i ( or anyone else) know the streched chassis?? how much for it, and how much for clodzilla III, tower lists it for abou $150, ill check for the axles, and ask the guy

[-=ADA$=-]

ive got outbidded on my suspension components, but still biddig on the wheels :D maybe its possible to get suspension parts from Tower, but i dont know which one, maybe you could help me by telling which parts are in gearboxes ( i know its alot of them, but please!!)

[-=ADA$=-]

hi (again) ive looked at Tamiya USA site, and found sxploded view of clod, and also parts list, what i would like to know is if i will be getting after market chassis and suspension components ( or make my self), do i need ( from the parts list) fron and rear suspension, or just gearboxes?? thanks alot, is it a good deal to buy these parts separately, or go with thunder tech parts ( but theyr expensive) thanks ( and whats with these chassis??)

[-=ADA$=-]

sorry but coulnt attach pic in edit option, so sorry for next post i hope its visible, if its not ill post what i found thanks

[4wdmt]

well, my (ebay) clod axles didnt work out. i ordered new ones instead from thunder tech. its not cheap, but comparing it to the whole clod kit - its still a bargain.

guys, does any motor with 0 timing work with the clod? can i just get any idea, what motors are you using and how is the performance. thanks.

[-=ADA$=-]

sorry for this but maybe some of you would like to sell a clod ( lightly moded) for not very much cash, i would only like a roller, but with custom chassis and to be good crawler, i have no luck finding any good, and i dont want to spend $200 for a stock new clod, and another $150 for chassis and 4 link

[Adanmtxt1]

hey 4wdmt, you can only use 0 degree timed-motors. you can use any motor, but if it has adjustable timing, you have to set it to zero.

-=ada=-: why dont you use tower hobbies for the axle parts? i get all my axle replacement pieces there! and i think you might have a hard time finding an acceptable chassis for as little as 150 dollars. the RC Guy Gecko II (one is baad) is $200, Ripper with carbon fiber is $280, and it is pretty much up from there. i think. :D

[-=ADA$=-]

ok, ive looked, and searched for some time, and now i have to say that im sorry for the time i bothered You, and space that i used on my posts, aparently i dont have enaugh cash to get clod like i want, and considering that with all stuff to make it really good rock crawler i think i would choose TXT cause it seems to be cheaper already with nice chassis, and looks as good crawler out of the box. Sorry :( :eek:

[Adanmtxt1]

Don't be sorry! That's what the forum is here for (that, and just rambling). I am considering getting a TXT-1, too. Check out the TXT-1 forum, but make sure you don't log into the 6WD one. And make sure you have enough $ (benjamins, dough, cash, etc.) :D :D :D clods are expensive, but they're worth every penny (except to my mom).

[4wdmt]

ADA$, go for txt-1. it is a very capable crawler - box stock. mine is still stock except for the aluminum axle guards, center skidplate, speedo and 7 cell.

Adanmtxt, thanks. i hope by next week, all the clod parts i ordered will be in my hands. i will stay on stock motors for now.

[-=ADA$=-]

i think ill try to gather the money but im sure it will take a while, for now ill read the forums about txt-1 and others thanks for help

[badtodabone]

Do any of you guys race your clods? I want to race but I don't know what to do? What is the cheapest tube frame for clods?

[Adanmtxt1]

I race my clod! You know, clods aren't just for off road; they can be raced on carpet tracks! I do that occasionally, but mainly i race with the other trucks outside on asphalt. If your 'track' doesn't have a clod/txt-1 class, ask them to add one. if there are enough people, they may open one up. if not, you can race with stadium trucks.

[Spoon37]

if there are enough people, they may open one up. if not, you can race with stadium trucks.

you mean you can run over the ST's lol....

clod race very well. but you must have a good chassis, the powers chassis is excellent, as is the TTR ripper, both are very light. if you must go for a tube frame you must not go for the cheapest option, that usually means extra weight. the beach tube chassis is supposed to be excellent - the latest one is around $350 tho and it is one of the finest chassis anywhere.....

I would give you links to where to buy all this stuff but it seems everytime I post links here it gets turned into stars like the administration here dont want to admit that there are other websites in existance...... :confused: (this is especially odd as I was linked to this message board from another one, so I wouldnt be here at all if it werent fro links to rival forums)

;)

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey, there's nothin wrong with running over other cars!!

www.rc4wd.com has tons of stuff. it seems like you can't buy kits, but they have optional chassis sets, parts, and even extreme modified trucks!

that and Tower Hobbies are my favorite places. :D

[shiftysk8er77]

Hey peoples... I am looking to buy a Clod here in the near future and I am new to all this. Well the woods behind my house have it all: hills, rocks, straight stretches. I want to modify it to some extent and I was curious what would be the best way to go for someone with endless possibilites as where to run it. I really just want one that looks good and will go anywhere. What is the best way to go to get the maximum out of any terrain?

[Spoon37]

now theres a good question. well you will need a better chassis than stock its fairly simple to build one if your handy with a hacksaw and have some sheet metal around, if not then there are alot of aftermarket chassis available.

if your going for an aftermarket one, steer clear of Carbon fibre, carbon 4 link bars and the JPS chassis. the reason being the CF and carbon linsk are great and lightweight for racing, but will get scratched up pretty bad if your crawling/climbing over really rough terrain. the JPS chassis is shiny, expensive and designed for minimal suspension movement for high speed control, also its stock link geometry sucks, it can be made to flex more but you need to re-work it alot.

something like an RCguy Gecko chassis would do nicley, link mounted shocks make for lightweight and huge suspension travel. also if you either lock the diff with epoxy(like JBweld) or buy the clod tracgear from rc4wd it will cralw alot better.

lets try linking to it: http://www.rcrock.com/shopx/go.cgi?&shop=city&cart=3976072x14066&session=40925c6336f2ab88&L=eng&P=4x4-G004

I hope that works, it may have only been linking to a certain other message board featuring MT's that gets censored...I dunno... :confused:

obviously you would need stuff like 4" oil shocks and radio gear, but that should be a good setup.

I've heard the TTR ripper cralws well too, if you remove the sways, but I don like the idea of the edge of carbon fibre chassis plates rubbing on rocks....I'm sure in time it would start to fray.....

;)

[shiftysk8er77]

where would I find plans to get ideas for my own custom made chassis...i am ignorant when it comes to this stuff...but i am really interested to learn...thanks

[Spoon37]

well I would recommend checking out existing aftermarket chassis for design ideas - it will give you a taste for what works and what doesnt.

a popular style is the Ripper chassis, but made to your own specs in aluminium: check it out: http://www.thundertechracing.com/ripper.htm

you can see how it has all the weight in the centre, and heavy stuff like batts mounted real low - that'll all help stability when crawling. it uses link mounted shocks to keep the shocks close to the centre, yet reducing teh amount of moving parts that a cantilever setup would give you whilst retaining excellent suspension movement.

an alternative style would be the full frame ladder chassis, as seen on the juggernaut 2(stock or ESP juggular upgrade), TXT(stock), or the New ERA clod 2000 chassis.

I dunno if it will help but I made a full frame chassis, it was originally gonna use TXT cantis, but then I got some savage style long shocks to try, so they went on(they need moving for better artic, it binds alittle right now....) but now it sits a bit too high, but it handles well and crawls ok so I'm not complaining.... heres a pic or two:
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/2004511891896225400191.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/May/2004519006352703462586.jpg

hope that helps ;)

[badtodabone]

My batts are up high and my truck handles great!

[Spoon37]

hehehe cool :D - your batts arent all that high up tho....

i.e. its not like the TXT where the batt sits right up in the chassis floating over the rear axle..... not too good for climbing....lol

;)

[4wdmt]

for those with imex puller tires, do you have inserts in them? i have mine from ebay, slightly used and they dont have inserts. do i need to buy one? i will just run my project clod in the backyard. no serious racing or rockcrawling. thank you.

btw, if ever, what kind of (direct fit) insert do you recommend? thanks.

[mavrick0]

The pullers don't require inserts. As for direct fit inserts there aren't any anymore. Sassy Chassis use to have them when they were around but not any longer. The MP inserts will work but you need to trim them down a bit to fit specially with a smaller tire like the Pullers.

[4wdmt]

thanks mavrick0, another question, do you know the dimension of the imex puller tires?

[4wdmt]

clod guys, im almost finished in making my custom clod, got all my parts from thunder tech. racing (great customer service by the way) and on my initial run with front steering only, i noticed it requires a big space for it to turn. are there any mods / aftermarket parts that i can do or buy to make a more "tight" steering (aside from 4ws)? im sorry for all the questions, im a newbie with clod. thanks.

[mavrick0]

Biggest thing you can do to fix the steering is to cut the steering stops off of the knuckles. This will help out a lot. As for the dimensions on the pullers I'll have to get back to you.

[4wdmt]

is there any concern with the axle stubs and dogbones popping out if ever all the steering stops are removed? thanks.

[mavrick0]

They won't pop out but it does put more strain on them and there can be more of an issue with breakage of the pin. Now I've only heard of this happening with the guys that crawl. I bash and race and have never broken the pin and on all my trucks I run the GPM aluminium steering knuckles so I get a lot of steering because there aren't any steering stops on them. And with my Ripper and running 10 or 13 turn motors that's a lot of speed and I've never broken mine.

[4wdmt]

nice, thanks for all the info. really appreciate it.

[badtodabone]

I have a question. If I drive my truck thru water 6 inches deep and it getts in my motors will it ruin them?

I have a creek and would like to make a creek crossing vid when it runs.

[Janders]

No, I've run my truck with the motor completely submerged; It actually cleans out the motor pretty well too :)

As for the question above about chassis' I just made a TXTchassied clod, and have both a spare Sassy Chassis(black) and chromed TXT plates if you're interested.

[Adanmtxt1]

Hey, I just finished building MY txt-1!!! While building, i noticed that the tranny is a stressed member. if you take the chassis and slap some clod gearboxes on, wont the chassis not be as strong? what do you do to make it structurally sound?

[badtodabone]

make a bracket or a brace

[4wdmt]

guys, i am expecting my gecko 2 by next week. any set up suggestions?

[minijosh]

send it to me

[minijosh]

Hey bad to the bone, Ford that river. I wanna see photos.

[badtodabone]

minijosh the river only runs like once a year for two days.

[minijosh]

hmmm. That gives you plenty of time to prep the truck. And then plenty of time to clean it after each run lol