Tamiya Clod Buster Forum

[RS4rally1124]

comon why isn't there a forum for these. the clods are awsome and i want all of the clod holders to unite and talk about this amazing truck.


JT

[PCC]

Clodzilla IV owner here.

Super Rooster, dual 17T singles, full ballbearings, dual battery holder and Y adapter.

[greeNBean]

i recently picked up a clod as well. and i gotta say i love this thing. i've already made my chassis and 4-link stuff and am currently trying dif. set-ups. :)
i hope to get a super rooster or EVX soon and maybe some speed gems.

[RCtinkerman]

I don't own a Clod but I have friends that do. This is one truch with unending hop-ups. It will become just about anything you want. A great truck, I like it!:D I talked a friend of mine into trashing the MSC and installing an ESC and dual battery setup. Now the truck runs forever ;)

[GT_RC]

I have a clod project. My friend and I have put in 2 phantoms, hooked it up to two batteries, hopefully getting a Super Rooster soon.

It is great to finally see a board about these great trucks. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make my own Cantilevers.

[RCtinkerman]

Why make them? Use the ones for the TXT-1. The TXT-1 has blue aluminum hop-up ones.

[RS4rally1124]

love to see the responses. i have a basically stock clod with an evx two max pro motors and i am running 2 3000 packs. the thing killed a maxx in everything my friend challenged me in. not even the 2 speed helped because i caught him even after the 2nd gear kicked them in.


JT

[weeb_beano]

Clods are nice trucks. They are the 'moonshine' of the MT industry.

You can make a lot of parts yourself at low cost, or go out and spend some $$ to get a tricked out chassis. Sure, out of the box they don't have the bang for the buck as newer kits, but the same things they lack in terms of cutting edge technology end up actually being their strengths; i.e. motors on axles, and a very simple drivetrain layout.

Some ignorant fools fail to recognize that, simply criticizing the Clod for being too old. Hah. Don't get me wrong. I love new truck designs. It's just the trendies that i despise, and they know who they are :)

Oh well, here's something you probably haven't seen in a while... a totally STOCK Clod aside from a Rooster ESC and ball bearings. I restored it and gave it to my little cousin. It makes a good basher.
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/clod01.jpg

This is a picture of my 6WD Clod, Tiamat. It's a slightly older photo, i need to take some new pics. The truck to the right is my brother's TL-01.
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress29.jpg

Some basic specs:
- 6WD, 6WS
- 6CH surface radio
- Triple Super Rooster ESC
- Triple P94 9T doubles
- Triple 1/4 scale servos (2x Futaba, 1x Hitec)
- Tamiya light and tractor trailer sound kit

Here's another pic of Tiamat, parked alongside the stock Clod, and some other pics.
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/clod02.jpg

http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress25.jpg

http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress20.jpg

Thanks for looking. I've been in this hobby for years and still learn something new every day. The truck is still under constant construction and i hope to have some pics with the trailer section soon. I tend not to check this board as much, as more updated info can be found at www.rcmt.net.

[RS4rally1124]

i love the clods.

do you guys know if there is a conversion to make the clod not have indipendent suspension. rather i want suspension like the txt 1


JT

[greeNBean]

there is a bunch of kits for the clod.
the suspension is not independant on them either. the TXT was based off of the JUggy. and the Juggy was based off of the Clod. :)
i made my own chassis and four link stuff and will try to post some pics later. but rest assured the clod can compete with the TXT any day. :)

[RS4rally1124]

yeah i love the clod. i have already made a trailer to carry around my cars and eventually one for my boat.

weeb i love the creation, is it a lot more powerful than the stock or is it just bigger. i love it.



JT

[r.c.dealer]

Is the Clod Buster the oldest RC kit still in production? I hope Tamiya doesn't discontinue it. I'm thinking about getting one to biuld and run. If I do I'll probably leave it stock. That 6 wheeler Clod is to cool!:cool:

[Poolboy51]

That Clod is so cool! I might get one:eek: :cool:

[Skribble]

Hey weeb_beano, your from the RCMT MB, aren't you? :p

[mustangman_16]

A few years ago i wanted a clod SOOOOOOOO bad. I am actually getting it now! I am getting a rock king rock crawler kit (custom stuff) and i will post pics as soon as i get them. I am so physce'd about getting this. Its like my dream truck. But what would be a sweet color to paint it? I want a solid color. Give me some ideas oh yea weeb_beano your 6 wheel clod is AWSOME, i love it. But mine will just be for rock crawling. But its just gonna be soooo freaking sweet , Damn i cant wait to get it.

[Poolboy51]

Weeb_beano-
have u ever thought of sending a pic of your 6-wd clod in to RCCA for Readers Rides? I like the pic of the TL01 and the clod in the city pic da best.:D

[mustangman_16]

So what does everyone have done to there clod?

[RCtinkerman]

First order of business, get bearings, and get rid of the MSC!

[Possumbot]

considering all the companies that make aftermarket chassis's, why don't they make a whole car instead of an upgrade cuz all thats left most of the time is the tranny and axles.

[weeb_beano]

Thanks for the comments everyone.... i should check this board more :)

RS4Rally1124: I'd love to see the trailer... i'm building a trailer for my truck, using the Tamiya box trailer with two more Clod axles in the back. As far as power goes, with the 540 silver cans i used to have, it was similarly powered to stock. Only a stock clod pulls about 5 lbs/axle. This truck is somewhat heavier so it was pulling about 6 lbs/axle. With the triple 9T doubles, it screams from the hole shot and tops off maybe at around 20-25mph. The torque is fairly high, as well as battery consumption. Tiamat eats three stick packs per run.

r.c.dealer: Thanks man :) The people i've spoken to at Tamiya seem very perplexed that people still want to buy the Clod. I don't think they will discontinue them unless a sharp drop in sales occurs.

Poolboy51: Thanks man :) The Clod makes a great basher of a truck. I don't think you'll be disappointed with one. I got one for my cousin with just ball bearings and a Rooster ESC but the truck is an absolute riot to smash around in the dirt with. I have submitted to RCCA in the past but got no reply back. I like this city shot as well, but i am dying to get some action shots and videos of Tiamat running on dirt.

mustangman_16: Congrats on the rock king chassis! From what i have heard they are a very no frills, down to earth, all business setup. Perfect for rock crawling... For body color i wouldnt know what to say as i am somewhat color blind :)

[weeb_beano]

skribble: Yup, the one and the same Beano :)

[JordanG]

i tried posting pics, but it said my post was too long :rolleyes:

Ah well, i have two very modified clod busters and a juggernaut 2, if you would like to see them go here ;)

http://pub11.ezboard.com/frcmtnetworkmessageboardrcmtnetworkreadersrides.sh owMessage?topicID=4158.topic

[mustangman_16]

I locked my rear diff. today with JB weld, and cut the steering knuckles for better steering. I will hopefully get the chassis next week install it and post some pics of just sitting there, from full atriculation.

[TORQUER]

Just wanted to contribute to the thread with my fellow RCMTer's.

1. My hand built aluminum chassis with ballbearinged cantilever suspension. 13 inch wheelbase.

2. Front and rear aluminum servo mounts with dual Tower Hobbies TS-71MG S2K Super Torque 2BB Servos.

3. DuraTrax bearing set.

4. Associated T/E Maxx shocks.

5. Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem motors.

6. Novak Super Rooster ESC.

7. Expert Electronics Y-Harness w/ reverser.

8. Associated T2 battery hold down.

9. HPI body posts.

10. Traxxas motor heat sinks.

11. Front and rear locked diffs.


http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//NEWWHEELS3.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbusterchassis//CHASSIS%20ON%20THE%20ROCKS.JPG



Will

[ProjectTwin]

Jugg wheels and USA-1 tires...nice combo!

Truck looks good and is very cost-effective!

Jason

[Lowgear]

working on a 20+ inch wheelbase rock clod project


hey weeb!:D

[RS4rally1124]

hey im back. i got a stock clod for $10. it is an awsome truck but i need answers to 2 things.

first: will maxx suspension fit in place of the stock stuff(it is less than efficient and hass no travel whatsover.)

second: is there any way to get catilivert or whatever suspension

[JordanG]

hey, $10, no way! i'll give ou $50 and you can say you made a profit ;)

No, maxx arms wont work. In stock configuration a clod's suspension will suck, but with a few mods, no maxx can touch it. I have pics but photoisland stopped working, im looking for a good photohost.

[RS4rally1124]

so should i get the clodII suspension or what?


JT

[JordanG]

by clod II do you mean the esp clodzilla 2 set up? Any aftermarket chassis with 4 link suspension would be better than stock :)

[RS4rally1124]

yeah but i just want new suspension not a whole chassis.

i have no clue


JT

[greeNBean]

you can still get great travel without buying the chassis. just get the long wheel base 4-link kit and adapt it to the stock chassis. but, alum. chassis's are alot easier to customize. not to mention they look cool too.

[Poolboy51]

WOW! you seriously got it for $10?! Or was it supposed to be $100?

[RS4rally1124]

no i seriouasaly got it for $10 from my friend. i "rescued it" it was a great deal. i also need a good steering servo. will metal gears be the best and also for torque. this whole clod thing is much harder than i thought. so many questions so much fun to mess with.


JT

[JordanG]

yeah it is going to be tough. you are going to need a high torque servo, i use cirrus cs-80's. 128 oz's of torque, metal gears, $24 at www.hobbypeople.net

To break it to you easy, the stock steering belcranks suck, you are going to either need to make some axle mounted servos' or buy some.

I do not know if the mods here have a problem with me mentioning www.rcmt.net, but i reccomend you go there, there is so much more clod info than here. This board seems more maxx related, i suggest you give the boards at rcmt.net a try.

[NitroRookie]

I'm thinking of getting a ESP Clodzilla III or IV kit with the Clodzilla power-up motors.

Which one is better?


P.S. By the way I forgot to mention I don't have the Orginal Clod. Can I still uses a ESP Clodzilla III or IV Kit.

[JordanG]

The only thing from the stock clod that you will be using on the clodzilla kits will be the gearboxs. (axles)

If you dont have the axles, head over to the clodbuster junkyard, you can buy the axles seperately there. you can find it at www.thundertechracing.com , the link to the junkyard is there.

[mustangman_16]

I am getting my chassis in 7 days!!!!! I got everything ready for it, now i just need to find a super rooster and 2 magnetic mayhems lol. But when i do man its gonna be crazy!!

[RS4rally1124]

i have heard a lot about the mm motors. are they better than a evx dual batterie and 550 motors?


JT

[GT_RC]

You don't even need the expensive chassis. My friend and i just lowered the mounting of the shock on the chassis, they are T-Maxx Shocks, and the suspension is nice with 20wt. It gets TONS of travel and it was practically free. Now we are getting a piece to mount the servo to the front gearbox, we already locked the rear steering. IT goes straighter, hillclimes better, and is better for rock crawling. These trucks have so much possibility without buying too expensive parts. NOW if i could only find a good ESC, anyone got one to sell?

[Team J and J]

do any of you guys have rockcrawlers :cool:

[Team J and J]

gt-rc your rite you dont have to buy all these expensive parts to make your truck run or look good and you can use the futaba s148 servo they work fine but thats if you just want a high torque servo :cool: this is my rockcrawler :cool:

[Team J and J]

here is another pic with front axle going way past 90 and the parts are not expensive :cool:and tires are inflated

[GT_RC]

Wow, that is a very nice looking clod. What kind of tires are they. I am looking for some good rock crawling tires

[Team J and J]

gt-rc they are stock clod tires that i cut that way and inflated and they work real good for crawling and mudd-bogging :cool:

[GT_RC]

Cool, thanks. What kind of servos do you guys use, i am looking for one for under $40. I was thinking a HiTec i think it is a 615. I do have a frond servo mount, it is just a matter of taking the time to put it on. I have to remove so much to remove the old servo.


Big tip, try to eliminate the rear steering. It will lower the turning a little, but it won't flip as easy. Plut it will climb and crawl straighter.

[RS4rally1124]

so how can i hook up the servo in my stock clod. i can't figure it out. my servo is a hitech and the arm hookup that comes with the clod doesn't fit. i would like to see some pics if you have them.


JT

[ihaveabruiser]

here is my one of a kinda clod: sick paint job by my step dad ( thanks jeff)full z2 race kit with kantis, SR with 14 t d speed gems, full ball bearings, locked rear diff and steering, BENNET front bumper, working head lights roll bar lights, APM air horns, custom body with tilt nose and bed and parma hemi engine and much much more
thanks for looking
mike

http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00E/1B/4E/DE/52/OjGkWVGJWwiBCZsFsQhZT5wsUSPyhTbY0180.jpg

http://pstr-m02.ygpweb.aol.com/data/003/16/E1/B1/B7/R27Jjq77Jz4W4nFH1vROIg-e+iizaomx0180.jpg

http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/001/4D/11/65/C3/9jzYZBDVOOdcYQZtUw0armtADkSgtGyZ0180.jpg

[GT_RC]

Awsome looking clod ihaveabruiser. That paint job is wild and goes great with teh clod.

RS4rally, I would try to find a front servo mount. THere are some that are actual front bumbers and some that hook over the gear box. Unfortunatly you can only have front steering. I have only front steering and it is not that bad. I would chekc E-Bay and other places to try to find one. Then it should work.


There might even be a custom servo horn to use?

[Team J and J]

gt-rc i use a futaba s148 sarvo it works good i also have another crawler and i use the servo mounts that comes with the rc 10 and i mounted my servo on the top brace/w the holes in it on the gear box that rc10 srevo mount works really good :cool:

[GT_RC]

Yea that sounds good. I got a front mount off E-Bay for 25 bucks. It came with a servo, but I sold it to my friend that is helping me on the clod. Now just gotta find a good metal gear servo.

[Team J and J]

gt-rc i just looked at tower hobbies they have a hobbico cs-70mg super torq 39.99 and a hitec/rcd hs645mg high toeq servo 44.99 both have metal gears :cool:

[Team J and J]

this is a pic of the rc 10 servo mounts :cool:you can get it from tower hobbies for under 3.00 bucks :cool:

[GT_RC]

Under 3.00! NICE deal for mounting a servo. Does it mount on teh front gearbox or is it in the same place?

[Team J and J]

you would mount it on the gear box you will use that brace on the gear box you have a brace on both sides :cool:

[Team J and J]

here is a pic of the brace you should no what i mean mount the servo on top of the brace :cool:

[RS4rally1124]

is there any good way to hook it up stock. i don't have the means of getting one of these mounts. the lhs doesn't carry them and my dad won't let me order offline.


JT

[Team J and J]

yea there is a way to mount it on the stock but you will have to take off the bumper and mount it on the left side of the gear box but you will have to make a servo mount or buy one :cool:

[tyler nesby]

i know this is the wrong place but does anybody want to trade there stock clodbuster for an hpi nitro rs4 2.it would come with 3 engines: an o.s. .12, the stock hpi .15 and an almost new xtm .15. it would also come with carbon fiber shock towers . i would also include a team associated team gt with aluminum shock towers and bumpers and mip cvd's. if the clod comes rtr i would also include a futuba radio with the trade.

if you are interested e-mail me at H2OChasen@aol.com:D

[JordanG]

Originally posted by GT_RC
Yea that sounds good. I got a front mount off E-Bay for 25 bucks. It came with a servo, but I sold it to my friend that is helping me on the clod. Now just gotta find a good metal gear servo.

Go to hobbypeople.net

There search for "Cirrus", you are wanting the cirrus cs-80. 128oz of torque at 6.0V, and all metal gears, for like $22 plus shipping.
Some people argue these servos are slower than high quality futaba's, but i can notice the difference in a few milliseconds, and the price is alot easier on the wallet as well ;)

[RS4rally1124]

i have a totally stock clod. i built a clodzilla II and i want to get rid of the stock one. it does not have a radiobut i will give you a high torque servo. i would really like that touring car bad.


PM me


JT

[tyler nesby]

well there is someone else that i am trading..... i think. if it doesnt work out though i will trade you.

does your clod come with motors? if it does what kind? and does it have the stock body?:D

[RS4rally1124]

it comes with the stock motors and the stock body. i have all the bumpers and everything. the body is in decent shape the only thing is that the bumpers aren't mounted.


jt

[tyler nesby]

well i think the other trade is gonna work ourt but if it doesnt i will talk to you about trading.

[RS4rally1124]

did that trade go through?


JT

[tyler nesby]

ya it did sorry

[RS4rally1124]

thats cool i really wanted an onroad but i will probably trade it to a kid for one of his 1/8 buggies. thanks though


JT

[tyler nesby]

sorry

[Ben.M]

I saw some cool clods out thereI was wondering if any of you owners of wonderful clods would be able to put some pics of your clod with a modafided chassis with out wheels so I can try to meke one my self mabe??:p :p :p

If I can get one made then I will try to show you a pic of the truck while its being made

[ihaveabruiser]

http://pstr-m02.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00B/3B/F2/1D/8E/n5kqnJMVqrKdHm9AO5ZfT8tS+fIAYtr20180.jpg

http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/009/18/89/D7/1D/rqCqv6B8kUTHXZkV3B1FwixP2lob5WZ50180.jpg

http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00A/04/9A/34/4A/HMncxYiuIJ5J-lCzekKggC3ZSiqcxlXS0180.jpg

http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00A/05/30/0E/B5/1s575k-zWqo0vqdYn3vB7V7aHZhbj-Tx0180.jpg

thought id share some actions pics
lata
mike

[wolfen]

Im looking to trade my E-MAXX with hopups for a custom built CLOD, if anybody has one they want to trade, please let me know. Im more into rock climbing then speed. thanks

[wolfen]

One more pic...

[Archerboi]

Has anyone used the ThunderTech Ripper Clod chassis? I was thinking of getting one and the Clod gearbox set from ThundeTech. Just wondering how it is. RCCA said it was the best one out there, and I like solid axle trucks. Thanks.

[ihaveabruiser]

hey dude the ripper is a awesome clod, even though i run a powers clod if yur into solid axel trucks and u wanna slay the maxx go with a ripper then, visit RCMT message baord forrums for more info on it
lata
mike

[Archerboi]

Thanks Mike, sounds like a off tha hook truck. I will check out RCMT's board. I check it out from time to time, but now I will look at it more closely. ;)

[ihaveabruiser]

hey dude not a problem thats what were all here for, if you go to the thundertech forrum you can ask questions the vice president of TT racing will most likely answer them. its pretty cool
ttyl
mike

[kxpedder7]

I have a stock RTR clod
Futaba radio
pro-tech charger
2 1500mah batts
1 extra body

great condition , I have pics I am asking $250obo, or trade for a nitro stadium truck...

[kxpedder7]

May I also Add that it has only been used around 15 times :D It has sat on my shelf for over 6 years..:rolleyes: its is in great condition, but horribly dusty from sitting there, I brought it out yesterday and charged up the batteries, man that thing still goes...

[IHIOIBIBIIT]

i want to get a clodzilla 4 chassis for my mainly stock clod...any of you know where i can get a kit for a reasonable price? (by the way, the clods you guys posted pics of are SICK, keep em coming :D )

[ProjectTwin]

Some pics of my Clod IV's first time out...

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/espclod/DSC00394.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/espclod/DSC00393.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/espclod/DSC00395.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/espclod/DSC00401.JPG

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/espclod/DSC00396.JPG


Jason

[PCC]

Nice!

[IHIOIBIBIIT]

very nice, and projecttwin, i saw the thread of your project truck, the "thumpernaut" :D very cool, and keep us up to date on your future projects, as they are really sweet!!

[vsnakebytev]

Hey I just got a clod for $65 and want to make it a MONSTER!!!!!

I was looking into the Ripper but what about the Clod 2000 from New Era, Clodzilas,Austin R\C, Boss Kong????

Which one is the best?

I want insane speed, height off jumps(good landing), Distance from the jumps!!!

[Soya]

Clod for $65?!?!? Tell me where!!!!! NOW!!!!!! I NEED ONE!!!!!

[ihaveabruiser]

vsnakebytev - if yyur lookign for a clod to dot hat go with a JPS, handles great jumps good, if you want spped run a tekin 420 and 12 cells on 12 turns, the truck will haul booty
lata
mike

[ProjectTwin]

Get in, sit down, shut up, and hold on! (http://www.rcreviews.net/movies/clodiv20.MPG) (vid)

Jason

[MMTM]

Hey Jason, are the diffs locked in that vid or still open? Looks like it cruised right through.

Here are some pics of my slightly modified Zilla 4 setup. It works well but may be up for sale soon as I have another chassis kit on the way.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clodpose1.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clodpose2.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clodpose5.jpg

And here is what makes it tick.
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clod8.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clod9.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clod10.jpg

My new P2K Pro motors are running sweet.
The rear motor pictured here is modded for reverse rotation
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/p2ktime3.jpg

Hopefully next weekend I can get some action pics with ProjectTwin on the rocks.

[ProjectTwin]

Carey...I'm charging batts right now, getting ready to head to the track.

The diffs are unlocked in that vid, still need to lock them.

Jason

[vsnakebytev]

Hey looks cool!:cool: I was thinking of using a super rooster w/ 2 10T motors and a couple of 3000NiH 6 cells

where can I get the JPS set up??? What is the website and price?

I got the clod for $65 at my hobby shop, all that is wrong is 1 motor and a broken rear steering link.

[DNA]

Here is my clod. I used a JUGGERNAUT JUGGULAR Kit from ESP Hobby. And then used my clod front and rear ends. I get 14 inches of single wheel travel with it. And 4 1/2 inches of up/down travel.



JUGGULAR CLOD (http://www.angelfire.com/apes/dan10/images/JUGGERNAUT_JUGGULAR.jpg)

[WhoKnowsWho]

Okay Clod owners, I want an E-Maxx and I was thinking of trading my stock Clod, a Super Blackfoot, and older Futaba Radio for one, but I want to hear why I shouldn't, and what I should do with my Clod to make it see some more time outside. I have only drove it twice, but it needs to get dirty.

www.rcmayhem.com has the Boss Kong chassis, pretty inexpensive, worth it?

I want a JPS, but unless I can get it for a bit cheaper, I can't.

Clodzilla 2, 3, IV? For normal bashing around, the 3 looks like a good inbetween, but boy do I like cantilevers!

Give me some info and positive ideas!

[yingying]

does anyone know where i can find plan and how to make a chassie

[jimbo123456789]

Anyone know who sells an alluminium servo plate for the clod? my servo just moves the mount away.
Thanks

[hpm02]

does this sound like a good deal for 400.00
TWO MONTH OLD CLOD BUSTER ONLY RUN TWICE ONCE WITH STOCK CHASSIS AND ONE WITH CLODZILLA CHASSSIS FULLY REDY TO RUN YOU JUST NEED A CHARGER...IT HAS A ALL ALLUNIM CHASSIS WITH CANTILEVER SHOCKS WITH BALL BARINGS TROUGHOUT TRUCK..HAS AWSOME ARTICULATION ...THE TRUCK HAS A NOVAK SUPER ROOSTER WITH DEAN CONNECTERS AND SPEED GEMS 17x2 MOTORS AND HAS FUTBA RADIO AND RECEVER WHEEL DRIVE AND 4 WHEEL STERING WITH TWO HIGH-TORQUE SERVOS. A HITEC 4956 AND 615 BOTH HAVE 133OZ TOURQE.EMAXX SHOCKS, IT COMES WITH TWO BATTERIES, TWO BODIES THE STOCK ONE AND A FORD F150 13INCH LONG WHEEL BASE BODY,,IT ALSO COMES WITH THE STOCK CHASSIS, SHOCKS AND STOCK TIRES AND RIMS...AND IT COMES WITH IMEX TRUCK PULL TIRES ON CROME RIMS...THE TRUCK RUNS AWSOME IT LOVES TO PULL WHEELIES ALL DAY. THE TRUCK IS IN PERFECT CONDITION NO SCRACHES ON THE CHASSIS ..THE PARTS INVOLVED ARE STOCK CLOD $209.00 TOWER HOBBIES ESP CLODZILLA IV CASSIS WITH CANTLEVER AND ANTI ROLLBAR 264.99 ESP.COM HITECH SERVOS 615+4956 40.00 EACH IMEX TRUCK PULL TIRES 80.00 WITH RIMS SUPER ROOSTER 99.00 SPEED GEMS 17X2 29.00 EACH PROLINE 13" F150 BODY 21.OO BALLBARINGS FOR TRUCK 20.00

[dk_stretch]

Got the first of many (I hope):) clod busters this summer. It came with a super rooster, Fubia controler, and spare parts (such as 2 grills, 1 front bumper, roll cages) and I got it w/ brand new NP 2400 batt for a total of $305 Canadian! I also added a wheely bar with wheels on it to allow for some sick wheelies that last for up to tweenty feet! Curently I'm modifing it w/ a custom chassis and custom bod that's I making. I love it. I'm also buying a 1/32 scale clod crusher. CLODS ROCK!

When I was running my Clod on 9/16/02, the front servo-saver arm broke right off. does anyone know were to buy one with out buying the entire B-tree? is it possible to buy or make one out of metal that one break? it's going to be at least a week till I have the time to go out and buy one:( . a week without running my clod.
I got tierd of waiting so I locked the rear steer and also raised the suspention by drilling holes into the stock chassis lower than the usual shock mounts. Need to geet better shocks though because the strees has broken two!

P.S. Those pic of clod in action above are sick! I can't wait to see more action pics. :D

[RS4rally1124]

i need help
i have a stock clod. the 4ws still works but i want 4 link suspension.
to my question:
my clod is only running on 1 motor. what esc should i get to run both motors on at least 6 cells if not more.

right now i know of the super rooster and evx.
also if anyone wants to cell one of thos two i may be interested.


JT

[enemy_spike]

why are you guys obsessed with clods, the juggernaut is alot better when completely stock, then for only $100 more (at southside hobbies) you can get a car that is bassically a clodzilla II or III.

[MMTM]

Well why are you so obsessed with your Juggs? :D (I couldn't help myself) But seriously, I bought my Clodzilla 4 RTR from Ebay for about the same price as a new Jugg, or TXT now, and then you still have to buy a radio, ESC, and motors to match what I got. I can keep the extra cash and buy new batteries that I really need.

Do I still want to get a Jugg or a TXT in the future? Heck Yeah!

[L96780]

what is the best way to mount a servo?

[hua15]

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/products/JPS/rims/clod.jpg

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/products/GPM/steeringNuckles.jpg

-Hua

[vsnakebytev]

Hey guys... I am sorry to say, but i am gonna sell the clod... I have no time nor the money to upgrade it like planned so :( im gonna say bye bye.

It also doesnt help that im not a big fan of electric:p yeah i shouldntsay that in here but o well... so if you want a clod for a good price check it out in the buy sell trade section, also ask me for pics & i will send them.

[hua15]

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/articles/tremor/1.jpg

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/articles/tremor/2.jpg

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/articles/tremor/3.jpg

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/articles/tremor/4.jpg

[Matt Stepanian]

I tried and tried to find an answer myself before asking, but...
Will Clod wheels fit on a USA1? They seem to me to have the same offset. Hmmmmm?

[TORQUER]

Hey Matt,

I don't think that Clod wheels are a direct fit for the USA-1. That does not mean that they cannot be fabricated to work. Why do you want to do this mod anyway? Just wondering.

By the way, I noticed that you are in Dallas. Where about the metroplex are ya. I'm in Denton.

Will

[Matt Stepanian]

Torquer,
I live in the SE corner of Dallas, just south of Mesquite near Seagoville. Glad to meet you. Haven't been thru Denton in about 3 years.
I want to sell my USA1, but it currently doesn't have its original wheels & tires. I've located some tires, but I still need wheels. Clod wheels are half the cost of USA1 wheels. Its a money reason.

[rickboy]

hiya .
i am in need of a part for my clod. i have the 4wd 4ws model and i need the servo mount for the rear steering servo and the part that goes through the rear gearcase and attaches from the servo to the rear steering link .. please help me if you have these parts.
i also need the electrical specs/diagram.:( :( :( :( :( :o :o :o ...

[Thunder VP]

take a look through the ClodBuster Junkyard. You can find any and all the parts you need.

ClodBuster Junkyard (http://members.aol.com/clodjunkyard/junkyard.htm)

[rickboy]

i did look in the junk yard but there are no links to order so you have to call them and i need advice and a better listin but thanx for you reply.:)

[th'Kooz]

The wife just bought me a Clod for my birthday - she went to the hobby shop - and bought the biggest box/truck she could see :) Man, I love her sometimes ;) Guess I got real lucky - with the woman & the truck choice ...

So ... I need an ESC it would appear. What brand is good? I need an R-ESC huh?

How much do those Alu wheels weigh? Do I need foam inserts? Are they included stock?

All you guys modding the chassis - how can you still call them Clods after all that? ;)

[WooHoo]

Rickboy,
The junkyard is definitely worth the call. not only do they have a TON on new and used parts, but have all of the advice and answers you could ever want. I'm relatively new to r/c and built my clod from hand - me - downs and used parts, untill i found thundertech (and the junkyard). they are very helpful and patient. They will answer any question, even if you think it's totally stupid. That's how I found out what little bit I know on clods.

[hua15]

http://www.rc4wd.com/images/site/products/airbrush/patch2/monsterForce4.jpg

[ProjectTwin]

This was a fun competition! The idea was to follow the course that was laid out by Red Yaic minutes prior to the actual competition, so neither driver knew what the course would be until we walked up and were ready to drive. I honestly didn't think either truck would even make it up the start to the course...it was about a 75 degree incline. :eek:

DownTown walked away with the win due in part to the fact that I kinda had an unfair advantage since I had built a dedicated crawler out of the 'Zilla IV and DownTown was running a Powers Race chassis.


My 'Zilla IV with 4WS, front and rear locked diffs, Titan motors from the E-Maxx, Big Bores, and a Super Rooster...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod1.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod2.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod3.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod4.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod5.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod6.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod7.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/4wsclod8.jpg

...and DownTown's Powers Clod...

I'm not sure on the specs, but I know he was running locked front and rear diffs, 15 turn motors, a Hi-tec front servo, and 3000mAh NIMH batts.

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod1.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod2.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod3.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod4.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod5.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/mia2/crawling/pwrsclod6.jpg

I hope to see more solid axle trucks at future events! :)

Jason

[th'Kooz]

What's all this about locked diffs?

What are the benefits/disadvantages? How do I do it? Any links to information or 'How tos' please?

Great pics too!

[Grant Tokumi]

Awesome pics. Thats a cool competition too. Never seen anything like it. You must have had fun.

Looks like rip rap from a large drainage facility. We've got a bunch of rip rap lined channels and drop structures here in Vegas. Rocks around that size with steep slopes. Next time you stop by Vegas to donate funds to our city, you can bring that crawler. :)

That course setup there actually might be decent for a backyard type course. :) Would kind of blend in with natural backyard type features.

Did you have to gear down the titans? I have a similar motor/esc setup with 550 motors and EVX on my clod, and man, that thing is FAST with the stock gearing. Also would like to know how you locked the clod diffs....

[th'Kooz]

ESC - good idea or bad?

The guy at the LHS said the Clod came with an MSC cos Tamiya says it's best for the Clod. He also said cos the Clod has 2 motors an ESC is a bad idea.

I dont think he's right. I'm thinking Novac Super Rooster ...

[dk_stretch]

I think you're right. My Clod has always worked bes preformance and handeling weise with my Super Rooster. Since the Super Rooster is made to handle two motors in a monster truck setup, the guy at LHS obviously isn't familiar with the Clod. Clod Busters include a MSC in the kit so both ESC and MSC will work, it's up to you what you use.

[ProjectTwin]

What's all this about locked diffs?

Locked diffs means that you use a little adhesive (either epoxy or JB Weld) to lock the gears in the axles.

attached is a picture showing the gears that you'd epoxy...the three small bevel gears and the two larger bevel gears should be attached to one another. This will ensure that both tires turn all the time instead of the tire that is seeing the least amount of load. How's it work? Say one tire is in the air, the other tire is on the ground. With an open diff the tire in the air would have the power transferred to it, and the tire on the ground would get little, if any, power. If you lock the diff, both tires will turn at the same rate. This is great for crawling, but hinders the truck's ability to turn. For this reason I added rear steering to the Clod to get a tighter turning radius.

The gears that are in focus are the ones that need to be locked. NOTE: You need to use enough adhesive to firmly set the gears, but no so much that the adhesive gets all over the place...

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

Originally posted by Grant Tokumi
Awesome pics. Thats a cool competition too. Never seen anything like it. You must have had fun.

Looks like rip rap from a large drainage facility. We've got a bunch of rip rap lined channels and drop structures here in Vegas. Rocks around that size with steep slopes. Next time you stop by Vegas to donate funds to our city, you can bring that crawler. :)

That course setup there actually might be decent for a backyard type course. :) Would kind of blend in with natural backyard type features.

Did you have to gear down the titans? I have a similar motor/esc setup with 550 motors and EVX on my clod, and man, that thing is FAST with the stock gearing. Also would like to know how you locked the clod diffs....

Grant...You nailed it, it's just a pile of drainage rock. I have a pile about half that size in my back yard...makes for a good time.

I ran the Titans with stock gears on 7.2V with a Super Rooster. They're made to operate on 14.4V, so I'm still getting good torque from them, just not so many RPMs. At 20 bucks a pop, they're not too shabby! ;)

As far as the MSC...they're power hogs. To use a MSC, you need another servo, a servo that pulls current from your battery pack the entire time you're driving. Then part of that current is bled off through that nice lil' white resistor that gets blazing hot...

If you switch to an ESC, you'll have better throttle control, longer run times, and no more HEAT like you had with the MSC.

Tamiya packaged a MSC with the clod because they're cheap. Adding an ESC will drive the cost up more.

Jason

[Grant Tokumi]

I have a pile about half that size in my back yard...makes for a good time.

I'm actually in the middle of putting in my own backyard at my house. I knew an off-road track in the back would be out of the question with my fiance, but this rock deal...... now that might be something to consider. :)

[ProjectTwin]

Grant....

Here's a video (http://www.studioonline.com/playclip.asp?iDigitalMediaID=80302&tiEncodingStatus=1&LangID=1&crypt=B6004AEA13EF6AB5&iMediaTypeID=1)

Jason

[GreenArrow]

Hey folks, here's some pics of my first clod I got a few days ago. These things are great!
http://redbird.net/madness/side shot.jpg

[sam616g]

Nice looking Zilla 4 you have there.

[ProjectTwin]

Here's the body...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/dside.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/rhtopfront.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/top.jpg


http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/dside.jpg

...and here's the guts...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/bottom.jpg

That's the motherboard to a HP 5135 laptop computer tucked inside. Also inside is the floppy drive, CD drive, video, and sound cards, and a wireless lan card.


The connections on the wall side...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/side.jpg

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/side1.jpg

...and the CD drive, which will open and close the tailgate as the drive opens and closes...
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/cddrive.jpg

...speakers...every good truck needs speakers!
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/speakers.jpg

...and finally, it's specs..
http://www.projecttwin.com/images/clodcomputercase/clodstats.jpg

Keep in mind, this is all housed in the body. I can take this body and stick it on top of a fully functional Clod chassis and drive it.


I'm not done by any means, but thought I'd share what I'm up to, I'm actually making this post from the Clod. :)

Jason

[GreenArrow]

That is pretty cool Twin! At first I was thinking "uh...thats just a body..." Then I saw the pic with all the pc guts! Very cool! Paint that body up really good, put a chassis under it and it'd be simply amazing!

[vsnakebytev]

Now imagine a mini hand held tv screen on the back, with a custom cover! That would be insane.

Hey Jason, looks good, but what is it intended to do? What is the hidden idea and secret project behind this?

How's the Jugg idea going? I havent heard about it in a while,... sorry to get off topic.

[Grant Tokumi]

Looks like a Monster Garage vehicle. :). Awesome.

I just watched your video too. I thought my computer wouldn't play it (half the movies I try to view don't work... must be drivers/compressors whatevers) but it worked!!! Thats a great performance. I love the way your steering works. Thats some strong servos to move the truck the way it does. Thanks for the link.

[ProjectTwin]

Thanks, Grant.

The servos are Hi-tec, CS-71 on the front and a CS-61 on the rear...both of them are using Kimbrough #124 servo savers.

The servos aren't as strong as I'd like, but they're still enough to put the servosaver to work. I'd like to get a couple of the high-torqe airtronics servos and stick them in though.

The steering is set up off a "Y" harnes from Hobbico or someone...it's just a "Y" with adjustable trim for the extra servo.

Works pretty good and makes trimming it out a snap.

Jason

[alexdj2k]

remember that 6wd clod one pg 1 please someone tell me where you can get a 6wd kit thingy it aboultly rocks and if that one one the 1st pg is for sale someone please tell me

alexdj2k@hotmail.com :D

[tjk915]

I've got a mod. clod and a trailer, and I think it would be awesome to tow my 57" gas boat with it, but I need a hitch. Does anyone know where to get one or have one they want to sell?
reply or e-mail at tjksail@bellsouth.net

[95Dakota]

Hello, i am new at this, i just want to say that the clod stock or modifed rules. I have a new era clod with locked susp. waiting on shocks. I run an evx and titans. this thing will pull nice wheel stands. Pic soon i hope. :)

[Will Fast]

i know this is a clod forum ut who bette to help me. does anyone know or have a jugg conversion i could buy cheap. it is stock now and needs help. pease post or e-mail coachwillb@comcast.net me if you have any input.

ps.i also have a clodzilla i will post pics later.
thanx

i have a hoppe up t-maxx for trade for hopped up jugg, txt or clodd

[jives]

I used to have a clod several years (6-7 or more) back ended up giving it away because I could not afford at the time to keep it in parts. Thinking about buying another one my memory is a bit rusty and I haven’t kept up with all the new clod mods (or even the old ones) so I have a few questions.

I remember the steering was a weak spot I remember striping gears out bending parts. I know I had to be using stock servos then so I will be using MG Hi-TQ servo if I get another, any other steer mods for the stock chassis other than putting servos over the axles?

ESC is a must even back then I tossed the MSC for a Tekin Rebel, so I’m planning on a Super Rooster. But what motors? Looking for massive Torque more than speed I have thoughts on going with the EVX and Titans, if both motor ran in the same direction I’d put a pair of P2K2s in there.

I also remember it spent a on its top, I know part of that was the 4WS but I’m thinking of widening the stance, ESP makes something for this I thought?

Shocks, they aren’t oil filled, I seem to remember it being bouncy I’d like oil shocks on there but I think I remember people saying there isn’t enough weight to make them affective which is why cantilever is more popular. Is there a drop in oil filled replacement for the stock shocks? Not looking to replace all the shock maybe just one at each corner with some light oil for a bit of control. Or maybe a cantilever mod for the stock chassis? I like the look of the ESP just not in the budget any time soon.

Can’t remember anything else off hand but it’s been such a long time other weak stops or common problems?

[GreenArrow]

Well, I don't know too much about using the stock chassis, but I'll help ya as best I can.

I'm not familiar with the MG Hi-TQ servo, but as long as it's got 100+ oz. in. of tourqe you should be good. I've never heard of any steering mods for the stock chassis other than moving the servo (or servos) over the gearbox, and I'm not sure if that would work with the stock chassis. Clearance might be a problem, I dunno:confused:

The Super Rooster is an excellent choice for the Clod. As far as massive tourqe you could use the stockers or go with Magnetic Mayhems. I'm building a truck with an EVX and using Atomic Forces. I've been told it will be very tourqey and have decent speed also. So you could try that. An EVX wiht titan's would be awsome too!

ESP does indeed make wheel wideners, Thudertech also makes some (http://www.thundertechracing.com/). I'm not sure how well those will work with the stock chassis, as I'm sure they are intended for use with mod chassis.

As for your shocks. I don't think there is a direct replacement. I think if you use oil filled shocks you have to drill out a bit of the chassis. I do know that these will work just fine for you http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXVH03 I'm going to be using them on my Clod project.
I have never heard of a cantilever system for the stocker. I see why you couldn't. :confused:

If you really want some more help come on over to clodtalk.com. There are a bunch of guys over there with waaaay more knowledge than I have. :D

Hope I helped :)

[jives]

MG Hi-TQ = Metal Gear High Torque, probity a Towerhobbies TS-70 AKA Hitec HS-645

I got my orignal clod used, someone had put Gold Kyosho LeMans motors in it I still have one of the two but it's shot (saved it for a different car) but after I found the motor I think I remember keeping the Tekin rebel as well. Which if I can find that I'm inheriting a few stock T-maxx part mainly the steering servo and maybe the TQ radio TX and RX, pull the TS-70 steering servo out of my E-pede stick the Stock T-Maxx servo in it, use the TQ radio...

Boils down too if I can get away with the Rebel and not have to buy a ESC, swap te servos and not buy one, and not have to buy a radio I think I can swing a ESP Clodzilla II or III kit. Have to see what remains I can find. :)

Thx!

[GreenArrow]

If you can get the Z2 kit. I have one and love it. I'm also building another. It may not be as fancy as the Z3 or 4 but it's very tough!

[Grant Tokumi]

I remember the steering was a weak spot I remember striping gears out bending parts.
The stock steering arm/servo saver that connects to the gearbox broke on me. Both front and back. I replaced it with the sassy chassis replacement. Or it might have been ESP.

Looking for massive Torque more than speed I have thoughts on going with the EVX and Titans, if both motor ran in the same direction I’d put a pair of P2K2s in there.
If you're looking for more low end rather than high end, then the Titans/EVX is not the right setup unless you gear down some. I have that setup in my clod, and MAN, that thing zips up and down my street like its life depended on it. Its just overall more power, so you get both more low end and high end. One problem I noticed with EVX, (with stock settings anyways) is the brakes is really strong. Strong enough to make you endo. My particular clod mod prevents the endo, but in a typical clod setup, I would think endos would be an issue. Another problem, if you wanna call it that, is that the reverse to forward, and forward to reverse delay thing (Novak has a name for that feature) makes it difficult to pull wheelies. I've also had a little glitching problem here and there, and one major runaway with it. But overall, I like that EVX and 550 motor setup because I like to be able to go that fast if I want to. That alone makes up for the other headaches I had.


I also remember it spent a on its top, I know part of that was the 4WS but I’m thinking of widening the stance, ESP makes something for this I thought?

Independent 4WS can solve that too. 4 channel stick radio. 1 stick steers front tires, 1 stick steers back tires. I use this setup and don't find it too unstable (relatively) at high speeds. But again, since you are not after too high speeds, maybe just wide stance would do it.


Can’t remember anything else off hand but it’s been such a long time other weak stops or common problems?
With stock chassis, I eventually broke every single ball connection on the chassis that connects the gearbox to the chassis. There are 4 points per gearbox. I think thats why you see many aluminum upgrades in the chassis. My interim solution to this was to bolt on aluminum plate reinforcements onto the plastic chassis, but eventually, the cracking got so bad, I finally replaced my chassis with a sassy chassis.

More recently, after I added the EVX and 550 motors, I broke a few steering turnbuckles, the part that holds the axle that connects to the tire. The steering arm on that piece broke off. I finally bought an aluminum set over ebay. That works nice.

The little L-shaped plastic piece that connects the gearbox to the red supports under the chassis also breaks.

Lets see, thats all the parts I can think of that would consistantly break on me.

Hope this helps.

[timetraveler]

Im looking at getting a clodzilla4 .I noticed looking at pic's that people have posted that some zillas sit higher/lower than others.Is the height adjustable or is there a kit that some use to make em sit higher?thx

[jives]

Still digging I haven't found that Rebel yet :(

Question on Dual motors; running (2) 27T motors would be like running (1) 13T to a ESC? Found a few other ESCs have to pull the spec but I'm pretty sure none of them handle anything less than a 16T. :(

[PCC]

It depends. Wired in parallel, yes, two 27T motors appears to the ESC as a 13T. Wired in series it appears to be a 54T.

Jives, I'm thinking of stripping my Clodzilla IV down and selling the chassis. Interested? Email me offline if you are.

As for the stability thing, I just bought a Futaba 3PK radio. I set up some channel mixing so that I can have rear same-steer for high speeds, or rear opposite-steer for crawling and maneuvering. Under normal conditions it is front-steer. Hitting one of two buttons switches modes from front-steer to rear opposite or hitting the other button switches it to rear same. The mixing function allowed me to set the same-steer so that the rear steers just a little compared to the front. Haven't tested it, yet, but will when I have a chance.

[hua15]

http://www.rcrock.com/images/product/JPS/rims/jumbo/jumboClod.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/product/JPS/rims/jumbo/jumboClod2.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/product/JPS/rims/jumbo/jumboClod3.jpg

These wheels will fit the Imex Jumbo Swap Dawg tires.

-Hua
www.rc4wd.com

[Will Fast]

am i invisable. can someone help me find a conversion kit for my juggy. i am also looking for a motified clodd or clodzilla. please help i have cash.

[th'Kooz]

Who said that? Who dat? Who dere?

[213]

Hi

Will the orginal clod wheels fit my USA-1 Nitro.?

17mm hex?

I know the tires will fit.

Regards 213.

[hua15]

stock clod wheel will not fit USA-1 Nitro. I sell USA-1 Nitro alum. wheels.

-Hua
www.rc4wd.com

[maX energ]

im dying to get one!!!!! im getting it soon i have 416 bucks to do anything with lol..i have a tmaxx but i dont like that much and no im not selling it..what is the best all around set up:
i want it to go over just about everything, not be slow like a nikko, and be not all the much money...can ya help me out...im looking at...
super rooster esc
hitec cs-71 servos (2)
but motors is a concern...what motors will work cause ones gotta be backwards right? cant i just switch the leads on the motors?!
please help...and also, what is the best clodzilla chassis out there and how much does it cost? give me some specs please i would greatly appeciate it

[civicds]

Hey max about the clodzilla chassis i had the clodzilla 3 and 4 chassis' i liked the clodzilla 4 chassis best but if you want a great chassis check out the jps clod chassis it comes with tons of aluminum and it won a clod chassis shoot out . the jps chassis goes for about $250 for the complete chassis so check it out the only thing tou will need to run it is 2 stock clod gear boxes.

[maX energ]

so if i was to buy the jps chassis all i need is the 2 gearboxs?!...not the shocks or tires or anything like that? can ya help me im kinda confused...
so if i buy the JPS chassis i will need what items?
am i better off buying the stock clod and building up or other wise....ahh! :confused: i need to buy the ESC (super rooster), hitec RX, and two servos?..which ones are cheap but have good torque...im trying to keep this project a low budget one lol..
things i need:
super rooster
batt./motor plugs *
bearings
2 ok torque not exspensive servos *
a receiver
the stock tamiya 58065 clodbuster?? *
* = help me out!
do i need to buy the stock kit THEN the JPS chassis kit or could buy the jps first and buy what i need?

[th'Kooz]

I get the impression that it would be cheaper to buy a chassis then get all the bits, as you trash most of the original clod.

I got mine as a gift, so I'm going to slowly build it up ... but if I'd known :)

[civicds]

I suggest to get the stock clod first ,you will need to take the 2 gear boxes, the tires, rims, and the body (which i suggest to get a different one) from the stock clod and buy optional shocks and then get the jps chassis and youll have your truck. also i recommend hitec hs-645mg servos there cheap for $40 and have 133oz of torque. check out www.jpspro.com for more details. this will be the best for your money. and i think it is cheaper than going with the clodzilla 4 chassis.

[th'Kooz]

Yeah, the JPS chassis is machined Aluminium, the Clod4 isnt. JPS is a better chassis by a long shot, as everyone says. Better for jumping, rock climbing (apparently) so that's what I'll be getting ... eventually :(

[maX energ]

thank you!!..im gonna get the jps chassis and the bits...why bother buying stuff your not gonna use right?!...anywho i need JUST the rims, tires, body, and the gear boxes? and by the way...who makes a set of reversalable motors...kyosho has the magnetic something's lol they're 22x1 and suggestions on the eletronics..
im thinking
Super Rooster
hs-645mg servos
maybe stock motors with bigger pinions
thanks again!

[civicds]

yep no prob. post pics i want to see your truck when its done.

[adas123]

I have a bullhead,(almost the same as a clod)but its mostly stock, and I NEED websites that have great custom kits and I need some how-to plans with them. Can you guys help me?

I want to make it a 6x6 with awsome suspension and a aluminum chassis. PLEASE HELP!

[Peterbilt]

Hey, i'm working on a project, and I need to know how wide the wheel well on the stock Clodbuster body is. Thanks a bunch.

[ebtucker]

Clodzilla 2 for sale. Made with an ESP clodzilla 2 long wheelbase sport kit, and Gearboxes from the Clod Junkyard. Has full ball bearings, 4 Integy threaded body shocks, proline body, traxxas 20turn motors with 13 tooth pinions. dual servo kit with 1 GWS 130oz/in servo, rear steer is locked. I have a Novak Super Rooster ill sell along with this. Price is $350

[95Dakota]

HEllo, we have a NEW ERA TUBE FRAME CLODBUSTER with red paint job. The axles are in good condition and have bearings. Traxxas big bore shocks and almost new evx. extra set of giant trac tires. No motors, servos or body, 475 or best offer. Email Jyuhas37@msn.com THanks

[95Dakota]

Sup everyone. Will the evx handel Trinity Speed Gem 2 Ruby 16T Triple Motors With out frying. thanks

[Grant Tokumi]

The EVX will probably not handle the (2) 16 turns. I have two 550 size motors (just like Titans) in my clod and that thing is silly fast.

[95Dakota]

Sounds good to me. i am running titans and it hauls. i have to speed gems rubys in a box waiting for use. i will probably use on in my stampede. thanks

[msyco]

anybody want to trade their clod for a new rs4 mt and used pede?

[CBlakeNS]

Nice pics guys!!!

[TORQUER]

Wanted to post these here for those that have not already seen them...

http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//FromBehind.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//Slide2.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//Tire.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//Side.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/clodbuster//Behind.jpg

Will

[SuperRally1]

sweet pictures will, how did u manage to keep the camara lens so clean after thoes shots?
Anyways.. i just ordered a clod from towerhobbies! cant wait!

[hua15]

Will, send some pictures to me, so I can post on rcrock.com

Here is my latest project.

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/bruiser/lake/5.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/bruiser/lake/7.jpg

-Hua

[ben7890]

Does any one have a stock or slitly modified clod they are willing to sell

[jcole1976]

clods rock!!!

i've had mine for 7 years and wouldn't give it up for anything

zilla 4 chassis
clodzilla power-up motors
3300 mah batts
2 airtronics 200 oz/in servos
tekin titan esc

i love it!!!

[RS4rally1124]

i started this so long ago and now u all have some awsome clods. i sold my stock clod or rather traded for a fully custom graphite st that resembles a t2 with the ae transmission. i am thinking of building a new one totally after market with custom or jugg axles.

first can ne one make axles and second how hard is it to do txt chassis and suspension with clod axles. and what would it be called txt or clod.:eek:

JT

[SteveK]

Here is my Clod chassis-to-be. I designed it last summer, for a class project, but only got to building the basic frame halves without bracing before getting sidetracked. That design is made from 7/32" tubing, closest thing to scaled-down 2" tubing the real trucks use, the links mount to 3/16x3/8" regtangular stock, and the shock/swaybar/body mounts are made from thinner brass sheet stock.

The upper suspension link holes are in a perfect arc, to allow for angle changes without altering the caster or wheelbase, but still tuning traction. The shocks mount to the middle of the lower suspension links, giving the effect of a cantilever but without all the extra assemblies. That design shows the shocks about 50% compressed.

I was never really happy with the design, or the 7/32" tubing, so I'm redesigning it to use slightly smaller 3/16" tubing (7/32" is over .2", and 3/16" is slightly under. I think I went larger purely because it was what the LHS had at the time). Instead of that angular lower portion, there will be a smooth curve at each side. I will also extend the chassis a bit for a better look, possibly with a telesoping rear portion going past the body to act as a sort of a skid/wheelie bar (Real trucks use this: Prevents the body from being crushed during a massive wheelie).

The plan was always for a removeable, possibly adjustable roll cage. Since it's so hard to get the roll cage formed and located correctly on the computer, I plan to just add some mounting points to the chassis and form a cage for whatever body I want to run. Real trucks sort of do it that way too: Build the lower chassis and suspension first, and then build the roll cage to match the body.

[SteveK]

That chassis design is sort of a mixing of designs. Real trucks I was inspired by were Marty Garza's Extreme Overkill, below. It was probably the 'raciest' design of all monster trucks to that point, with virtually all others sticking with the 'Patrick chassis' design, like all the Bigfoot trucks. The Patrick-like trucks are OK racers, but are really best suited to the freestyle which has become mandatory at the USHRA Monster Jam shows, which is seems the MTRA hasn't embraced. Just from looking you can see Garza's truck is purely a racer.

Extreme Overkill. Notice the mid-link mounted shocks.
http://www.truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monster-Tech/tech-5/Overkill1a2.jpg

'Naked' Extreme Overkill.
http://www.truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monster-Tech/tech-5/tube-01.jpg

A potential prototype chassis. You can see how low the engine sits, and how low the truck is overall. This chassis is obviously designed for in-line jumps and not moguls and various freestyle manuevers.
http://www.truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monster-Tech/tech-5/ok1.jpg

I wanted something between the racer and the freestlye trucks, so I followed the basic design, but lifted the chassis a bit. I will probably design a second set of shock mounts onto the next chassis to raise the truck .5-1" from the position shown in that picture.

More into on those chassis, and other monster truck tech, including Marty Garza's thoughts on the future of monster trucks can be found here: http://www.truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monster-Tech/monster-tech.html

[hua15]

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/atv/one/1.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/images/truck/atv/one/4.jpg

-Hua

[TweakedTad]

Here is a few pics of my trucks you can see more on our racing site.
http://www.tweakedracing.com/members.html (http://www.tweakedracing.com) http://www.tweakedracing.com/pure/pure4.jpg http://www.tweakedracing.com/tad/stallion1.gif

Tad

[endeavorc]

Here is the deal, I am in the middle of customizing one of my "toy" r/c's and am in need of some information. I am looking for a company that can make or already produces a custom Clod chassis. I need the wheelbase to be 16-1/4" to 16-1/2" and the minimum width to the inside of the tires to be 10-3/4" to 11". I am looking for a pretty flat top part to the chassis so I can mount the body (it has an interior also) and one that does NOT mount a body very high above the wheels.

Thanks in advance,
endeavorc

[SteveK]

Here are a couple pics of my Clod. I got this in I think 1990, just like you see it. My Dad did some legal work for a guy and took that as payment (In his private practice he always says take what you can get, since he's been burned by so many people. He's gotten freezers full of meat, weeks in time-share condos in Florida, etc) The guy had added:

- Chrome everything except the axle tubes, red ladder bar braces, and the steering knuckles. Oh, and the rod-ends were still red.
- 8 gold shocks, look like Kyosho or Duratrax.
- Aluminum wheels.
- PDI Turbo Zeta ESC. This is a massive aluminum brick meant for pullers and other heavy-duty applications. Had a separate pad for programming the throttle response and acceleration curves.
- Dual 4400mah d-cell battery packs (Total of 12, or 8800 mah combined) and a regular sub-c pack for reverse.
- Dual Black Magic modified motors. Not sure of the wind.
- Futaba Magnum 2PD AM radio system. Probably the highest-end AM radio made at the time, and for years after. Also has a 132S servo, which is a small servo meant for pan cars and stuff. Dunno why it was in there.
- Stock body painted Testors Italian Red with diamond plate bedliner, aluminum tube roll-bar, front and rear bumpers, and working roll bar and head lights.

The guy had this truck built for him, and the guy doing it clearly didn't really know what he was doing: The wiring was a complicated mess, the servo was WAY too weak for the truck, the shock shafts were too short to have been their originals, and there was no fuel tubing in them to limit up-travel. Oh well.

[SteveK]

One more.

[Electrohacker]

here's my clod
http://www.geocities.com/electrohacker/clod/KCver2.txt



To all clod Jumpers -

HOw the hell do you get enough speed to jump. basically I want to know the electrical setup to get a short wheelbase clod to jump like crazy.

thanks - 313ctr0

[SteveK]

Try an EVX, Titans, and 2 batteries.

[corwin99]

I just picked up a clod recently... its more or less all stock, the previous owner stuck a few ball bearings in it.. and i took some out of the part chassis he included and added them to it.. I stuck a pair of Trinity Ex-Spec motors in it, but the thing is that the timing isn't reversed on one of them.. i think they're fixed 21 degree timing, and aren't really high in torque.. Should i switch back to the stock Johnson motors?

I'm running them off a Novak 610-HRV esc and a single pack... Clods seem like such a crazy machine.. i'm used to Touring Cars. I'm getting oil-shocks for it.. probably 4. What do you guys suggest for upgrades? I want to make it a fairly all-round type of machine.. I saw the Clodzilla 4 Complete chasses which i was considering, but i'm not sure if i want to put that kind of money into it yet.

[SteveK]

The great thing about the Clod is it doesn't have to cost a lot to make it a great truck. Besides oil shocks, bearings, and new motors, you can build the rest of the chassis for as little as $30 of materials. Even just adding a standard 4-link setup to the stock chassis is a huge improvement.

You will need to reverse the rotation of the rear motor, so you're better off replacing them. If all you have are the Johnson/Mabuchi motors for right now, they're fine. You'll only hit about 10-11mph, but it will have plenty of power. Some good low-buck replacement motors are Traxxas Stingers (Essentially 20 turn versions of the kit motors), Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems (Available in reverse wound), or any inexpensive modified with adjustable timing. You simply rotate the endbell 180 degrees from where it is normally. A timing gauge like the one Racetech makes helps a lot.

[corwin99]

well.. i ran the clod a few times with the two 21 degree motors, and i didn't reverse the timing... Is that going to be bad for it? How much does timing actually affect them?

I have one traxxas stinger that I got wiht my stampede that i never put in it.. but it looks like it has more than zero timing on it too.. so two stingers wouldn't work either, would they?

I've been looking for instructions on where to drill and stuff to put together a 4-link suspension.. but I can't find it. I really would like to build my own chassis for it.. that would be really cool but considering that I live in an apartment its difficult to work with raw materials all the time.. i have no workbench and tools.

[SteveK]

www.mattsrcstuff.com Good how-to's there.
www.thundertechracing.com has a lot of good close-up photos too, including some of where the holes for the 4-link bars go. You'll need at least a hacksaw and drill to make your own chassis, and a tap helps too.

You don't need to drop as much as on the Clodzilla IV chassis: The Zilla II and III are good as well. Or you can get a set of Juggernaut/Jugg 2 chassis plates for about $35 (Colored ones on Tower), which means you only have to make your own links, which isn't very hard.

If the motors have any advanced timing, running them with the wires reversed to reverse the rotation, it will run hotter and slower than the other motor. You may not have noticed, but the rear motor was surely slower.

I asked Traxxas, and they said the motors have zero timing, so reversing the + and - wires will work fine.

[corwin99]

thanks for the info. I think what i might do is use the 2 reedy rage-r's i have and reverse one of them...

I was looking at the prices for a Clodzilla 2 complete kit and its like not cheap either... and Tower is a pain for ordering because i live in Canada. Its almost the same price for me to order a Clodzilla IV chassis (not complete kit).

Maybe i'll just get the shocks and then see :) Will the Novak 610-HRV handle 2 stock motors on a clod properly?

[hellbent]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=951315#post951315
theck this out

[endeavorc]

Originally posted by endeavorc
Here is the deal, I am in the middle of customizing one of my "toy" r/c's and am in need of some information. I am looking for a company that can make or already produces a custom Clod chassis. I need the wheelbase to be 16-1/4" to 16-1/2" and the minimum width to the inside of the tires to be 10-3/4" to 11". I am looking for a pretty flat top part to the chassis so I can mount the body (it has an interior also) and one that does NOT mount a body very high above the wheels.

Thanks in advance,
endeavorc

Anyone with some helpful info on this question??

[SteveK]

Looks like you are on your own for that. Commercial truck wheelbases top out at 13-14". I haven't measure my Clod, but you can pump up with width using various track extending tricks.

For the chassis, that also sounds like your in for some custom work too. It doesn't have to be complicate: Just take a standard design and add some brackets to mount flat stock up top.

[speedywell86]

I have been into th r/c hobbie for about 6 years now, but I have always done on-road, I've always loved the clod. I would like to get one, but out of the box are they worth much as far as fun and power. As with any kit it would of course get ball bearings, and an esc, but with just that what kind of power would I be looking at?
thanks

[corwin99]

I have a more or less stock clod.. its pretty fun to drive around.. it will climb most low-medium hieght curbs and can do small jumps. The stock shocks aren't oil filled so its bouncy... the wheel base is short so it can roll easy.. the turning sucks because its limited a bit... but all in all its a really fun alternative to on-road. Off-road cars like the clod are much more fun when ur just bashing around.

The thing is pretty slow tho... i mean it doesn't even come close to Monster trucks like the Stampede.

[hyperstang]

Hey Hua,
is that the Tremor in the rock crawling picture....

I am the one interested in picking up the XC2 chassis.

[corwin99]

I want to make a aluminum ladder chassis for my clod.. I saw some aluminum plate and bars at the LHS.. I know how to make the plates, but how do I make the bars connect the two plates together? anyone have any info to help a poor soul out? :)

[rx78gp03s]

Originally posted by corwin99
I want to make a aluminum ladder chassis for my clod.. I saw some aluminum plate and bars at the LHS.. I know how to make the plates, but how do I make the bars connect the two plates together? anyone have any info to help a poor soul out? :)

take aluminum round stock, chuck it up on a lathe. take a drill bit, stick it thru the sides of the stock then tap it after. its not that hard. i'm making a custom clod ladder frame right now. i'm having a hard time cutting 3/16th aluminum sheet metal.
CRAZY. any who. good luck

[rx78gp03s]

where is everyone!?
i just started my clod project and i need some up close shots of ur gear box's. i need to see how u guys linked everythng together.
thanks.

[corwin99]

I tossed out my plans for making my own ladder frame chassis and bought a carbon fibre multilink cantilever chassis instead.

what do you need pictures of the linking? u mean the multi-link suspension? there's several ways that you can connect that... let me know i'll send you some pics

[rx78gp03s]

yes
i want to see where u guys mounted ur 4 link suspension on ur trucks. pics right here would great

[ontherush]

I found a clod buster in my dads basement( hard to believe) now im looking for a 4 link hopped up conversion, iwas thinking either the new era monster clod 200 kit, jps pro ,or the clod zilla 4.

Can u guys tell me which one is the best one. I want one that that can articulate atleast 80 degreeez.

thanx

[ontherush]

does the jps chassis have more than 80 degree articulation?
so which one has more articulation the jps or the clod zilla 4?

[corwin99]

I would suspect that the JPS and the Clodzillla have similar articulation if setup the same way. the Clozilla 4 is designed as a long wheelbase lightweight racing chassis so it may not be designed for major articulation. If the chassis uses Cantilevers it will probably get more articulation, and depending on where you mount those it will either get more or less.

I will post pics of my clod suspension at lunch time. right now mine is set up for racing and only has about 45 degrees of articulation. I have it set up with the lower links on the bottom of the axel and the upper links of the top of the axel.. some people put the lower links on the top of the axel and the upper links connected to the center middle of the gearcases.. near the servo saver.

[SteveK]

I have heard the JPS has a fairly stiff swaybar setup: Good for general driving and jumping, but not for crawling.

[corwin99]

from what i've seen, in general the non-cantelever chassis seem to have more articulation... here are those pics that ya wanted.

[corwin99]

more..

http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clod1.jpg
http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clod2.jpg
http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clod3.jpg
http://www.island.net/~corwin/clod/clod4.jpg

[rx78gp03s]

oh my gosh! thank you!!!
that sheded alot of light on for me.

[ontherush]

d i have to use anti roll bars when i take my clod raock crawling?

[corwin99]

I would think that anti-roll bars would be detrimental to rock crawling.. but im not sure. I would definately use them for racing though. What does an anti-roll bar look like for a solid-axel like a clod??

[SteveK]

Almost no rock-crawlers use swaybars (AKA anti-roll bars). TXT-1 owners might because the stockers to help keep the motors up in the chassis from twisting it too much, but that's a different case than the Clod Buster.

[ontherush]

has anyone tried one of the new era clod chassis , one thing i dont get is where u mount the electroics. all i see is intersecting bars, i dont see no electronic trays or battery trays. Can someone please tell me how to mount them, because i want to get the new era 2000 kit, it also looks like agood rock crawler.

Any suggestions?

[rx78gp03s]

hey corwin, can i get a shot of how u mounted ur front servo?

[corwin99]

yeah sure no prob.. i would definately suggest that you mount the servo in a different spot than I have it though. The way mine is set up it is open to being damaged, and the servo saver sticks out too.

My recommendation is to try this:
http://www.xtremercracing.com/images/clodservomount3.jpg
http://www.xtremercracing.com/images/clodservomountpackage.jpg

That seems like the easiest way to mount the servo without having to create a CNC machined part. But you have to mount the servo with mounting tape.

If you still want pics I'll set you some later tonight or tomorrow.

[hua15]

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/water/2.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/water/5.jpg

http://www.rcrock.com/product/rc4wd/ultimate/sxt/water/6.jpg

[rustlerman1]

Nice pics hua15, look sweet:D :cool: . I got a quistion what is the smallest pinion i can use in a stock clodbuster??:confused:

[rustlerman1]

Can i use a duratrax streak in my clod???? (need to know)

[rx78gp03s]

Originally posted by rustlerman1
Can i use a duratrax streak in my clod???? (need to know)

the short answer: maybe
the long answer: yes, but here's the math: u can do 2 15turns in SERIES which becomes 30turns, but if u want parallel those 15turns become 7 turn. however the stock 540 shouldn't that much of a load in parallel for the streak

[corwin99]

I just bought a Super Rooster... I was running a Novak 610-HRV which supposedly handles down to 12-Turn motors.. though I'm not sure they had turn ratings when that ESC was made. I ran the 610-HRV with 2 19T motors without problems, except when I ran it in grass, which is understandable. The grass set off the heat failsafe. Assuming the Streak and 610-HRV are similar (both handle 12 Turns) then you should be okay with 2 19Turns even. I've always wired them in Parallel.

[ontherush]

Can anyone tell me which 4 link conversion that I CAN BUY, is best suited for hardcore driving and serious rock crawling.

I aso wanna know if i can run 2 reedy Ti 12 singles on my clod, would just switching the negative and positive wires, would one of the motors be rversed?. can some one tell me Please.

[rx78gp03s]

why buy it when you can make it?
well not everyone has a machine shop, and neither do i.
well i only have access to mine for a short bit now.
my chassis is almost done. the frame is complete, 4 links are ready, just needs the rod ends. steering needs to be redesigned.
a lockout needs to be made. no idea if i can even make a cantielver suspension system. waay too much effort.

if i was gonna buy a chassis, i'd pick the gecko chassis. pictured here:
http://www.rcguy.com/pix/rcgrock11.jpg

very very simple design if u ask me.

[corwin99]

Most serious rock crawlers like the Gecko chassis aren't really very stable for serious racing... with the center mount upper links the car is actuall pretty wobbly when you drive it straight and it doesn't track all that well. They sure look cool as hell though :)

rx78gp03s - can't wait to see pics of yours when you get it done :)

[ontherush]

can some one sned me a link to the gecko chassis website. or even just the website will work.

plus, i need to know what motorsans esc i nedd for rock crawling.

[rx78gp03s]

here you go:
http://www.rcguy.com/

well my project is almost coming to an end!
i got the rod ends today!! the servo mount is almost complete!
it just need mounting holes for a servo to sit on. plus i need a way to mount my shocks. cantelever is just too complicated.
maybe onto the links.

the only question i have left is, at wut cost will i go to complete this project? sacrificing my spare kawada!! for screws!
may the great r/c bashing yard forgive my soul for doing this.

[rustlerman1]

Hey guys, I wuold like to know if this esc would work in the clod.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXT7&P=C , do you guys know how much suspention the clod has stock??

[rustlerman1]

Hey guys, I wuold like to know if this esc would work in the clod.http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXT7&P=C , do you guys know how much suspention the clod has stock??

sry for the double post

[SteveK]

That ESC might work with the stock motors, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything hotter. The ESC is not the place to skimp with a Clod Buster. Get one that's at least capable of handling motors in the low teens. You can get those for well under $100.

There isn't much travel in the stock Clod. Because of the steering arm on top of the gearcase, you are limited to less than an inch of vertical travel, but can get about 3 inches of articulation from it. The squishy tires also give another bit of suspension travel (I'm sure this was part of the original design 17 years ago).

[Janders]

Originally posted by rx78gp03s
the short answer: maybe
the long answer: yes, but here's the math: u can do 2 15turns in SERIES which becomes 30turns, but if u want parallel those 15turns become 7 turn. however the stock 540 shouldn't that much of a load in parallel for the streak

That's not entirely true. A 12T motor does not have half the amp draw of a 6T, and double that of a 24T. Just for example; My Duratraxx 12T ESC runs dual 17T's without problem
most 7T's pull about as much current as two 20T's and two stockers pull as much as one 12T.
Here are just a few power(current) numbers from a few motors

7T.....171
14T....122

These are obvviously nowhere need double the draw.
I calculated a few ESC numbers for what they could handle and came out with these

Duratrax 8T rev. ESC = 2 X 13T's
Duratrax 12T rev. ESC = 2 X 16T's

Of course you would want to use these numbers with a margin of safety, and at your own risk.

[corwin99]

Originally posted by rx78gp03s
well my project is almost coming to an end!
i got the rod ends today!! the servo mount is almost complete!
it just need mounting holes for a servo to sit on. plus i need a way to mount my shocks. cantelever is just too complicated.
maybe onto the links.

the only question i have left is, at wut cost will i go to complete this project? sacrificing my spare kawada!! for screws!
may the great r/c bashing yard forgive my soul for doing this. [/B]

Crazy.. Cantilevers can get really complicated especially because if they're mounted in the wrong place they won't work, and they'll lock into an up position. Mounting on the links will probably give you the best articulation, and you could use Touring car shocks too.. But that'll give you crap suspension for landing jumps.. What kind of 4 link mounting do you have set up?

[rx78gp03s]

well got most of it completed today!
the 4 links are if not similiar, exactly like the ones on the gecko.
steering is solved, the lock out is next. it' a great thing i built 2 servo plates. they function exactly like the one on the gecko's other steering design.
im' still looking at a cantilever suspension, but i might just bodge it together and leave it like the mad force style.

[ontherush]

thanks for the link to the gecko cassis website. i might buy it soon. now i want to know which motors ans esc i should use. i want alot of torque and long runtimes.

would the hacker brushless e-maxx motors work on the clod?

[ontherush]

should i use the steering system from gecko or should i switch to a jps or clod zilla steering.


(better way of asking the question) which steering system will work best for rock crawling , the esp and original gecko steering kits arent protected in the front , so wont te steering rods het hit by rocks?

[mavrick0]

Personally I prefer the JPS front servo mount bumpers over everything. It protects everything, but is still close enough to the gearbox to allow for curb crawling, only thing that is a pain is you have to cut off the one screw mount for it to work but no big deal.

You can see my Clods and other RC's of mine here. (http://www.*************.com/media.php?act=view&memberID=79)

[vsnakebytev]

I have traded a N funny car for a Clod Zilla 4 and it comes with Titans and an EVX.... I want to get those Trinity Monster Maxx motors and a few other parts, what do you suggest?

I love that Gecko Chassis, I might just buy another set of axles and rims, tires etc... Where would be the easiest and cheapest way? is there anything else I would need besides electronics?

Thanks for all the help!

[rx78gp03s]

can i get pics of how u guys mounted ur shocks? i need to see how u guys mounted the cap end of the shock. is there a pivot bal there? u nko
thanks

[rx78gp03s]

well off to school i go.
here's my clod under construction. yes thats me holding it. ain't i handsome?
ne who, i should have a rolling chassis by end of day today.

edit:forgot pic.

http://members.shaw.ca/rx78gp02/protoclod.jpg

[corwin99]

making a brushless Clod isn't as simple as making a brushless e-maxx.. the e-maxx uses 1 hacker brushless motor to replace 2 brushed motors.. on the clod you can't do that because of the way its designed.

shock mounting: on mine I have cant's so it would look the same, but most shocks have a captured ball on the bottom and a big hole on the top for a kingpin or a spacer or some such... I just stuck a long screw through the captured ball on the bottom throught the cant's with some nuts as spacers, and then on the other end i used a long screw and held it in place with nuts and stuck some fuel tubing over the screw which made the top shock hole mount snug and not scratch it up.. some people use specially made ESP shock offsets... but meh.. fuel tubing works just fine for me :)

[weeb_beano]

Going with the Hacker C50 is definitely possible if you go with one motor for each axle. Timing is handled by the ESC, not the motor, so the whole forward/reverse motor issue is moot.

Buf if you only run one motor on a Clod, a FWD or RWD setup would probably handle very strangely/poorly.

Out...
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress57.jpg

In...
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/columbia/columbia_progress01.jpg

Plok!
http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress58.jpg

[egdinger]

Thats umm, alot of power you got there. looks like fun. Are you really throwing out those super roosters??? if you are can i have one?

[rx78gp03s]

can i have one too! please! i could really use one

[krisI.925]

are you running 12 or 6 cells for each motor. If your running 12 that thing must be insanly overpowered.

[Janders]

3 brushless motor/ESC's, 3 stick packs


I don't think he's 'throwing away' the superrooster's. I think he intended the trash pic as to make a point.

[egdinger]

i figured that he wasn't thowing them out, but i had to ask, you never know:rolleyes: .

[rustlerman1]

Hey guys, I would like to know how to make more suspention in the stock clod?? And i got another quistion is the stock speed control anygood?? and can the stock speed control be used on rock crawling or off roading?? And do you guys have any pics of the stock clod suspention??
sry for all the quistion:( :o

Thanxs,
Zack

[mavrick0]

Well first step is to remove the pieces of tubing that are put on to the stock shocks to limit travel. Then the next few steps might be scary. Because of the stock steering the top piece of the steering servo savers that is mounted into the gearbox hits the chassis. So you are going to have to either cut the chassis to allow for it the move further up, or replace the steering set up completely with a servo mounted on the front of the gearbox either with a TTR or JPS servo mounted bumpers or xtreme or gecko style mounts. ESP's won't work because of the same problems as the stock setup.

The stock MSC is ok for bashing but for crawling it doesn't have enough control to be able to do the slow crawling, and the resister used to go slow will become very hot and probably melt down on you. The MSC only has 3 forward steps where an ESC like a SR has 32 discrete steps which allow for slow slow SLOW speeds.

As for the pics I would have some but still in the middle of building up a stock clod to go with my 4 mod clods and 6x6x6 clod. But somebody will probably step up.

[weeb_beano]

Thanks for the comments, guys :)
Janders is correct to a degree. Those SRs are in a holding pit purgatory of sorts. Two of them started developing problems about a year ago where they would glitch badly, and then lose their settings. It got to the point where i had to hard set my radio's neutral point so i wouldnt have to adjust the ESCs anymore. The third one then burned out recently (under light load) and i just decided to yank all of them out of my truck. Even before i went brushless i decided that i would not buy a Novak product again until they get their QA sorted out.

I'm running 6 cells per motor (the ESC and motors are rated for 12) Even at 50% spec, it has an ungodly amount of torque and acceleration. I don't care much for top speed, since that's not the focus of the truck at all. Long runtime, gobs of torque, and near-zero maintenance is where its at.

http://www.beanos.com/~tsoutij/images/gallery/tiamat/tiamat_progress64.jpg

[weeb_beano]

Mavrick is dead on with modding the stock clod BTW. Also there are kits to ar