Original RC10 Forum [Archive] - Page 2

StevePond

03-22-2003, 11:26 PM

Here's what I did - I milled blind slots lenghtwise in the chassis, milled the sides of the chassis plate down to about 1/2-inch, then sent all the chassis out to be stripped and hard anodized. I made three identical chassis, and if eBay were around in the day, those things would have gone for some bank! I had people throwing all kinds of money at me for those things, but I wouldn't hear of it. The irony is, I don't know what the heck I did with them. I don't have one of them left...

pudder

03-23-2003, 12:32 AM

Steve, look under your bed! You might atleast find other stuff there! ;)

SteveK

03-23-2003, 01:39 AM

SteveP-

WHat did you do with all your project cars and stuff from as far back as the late 80's? I remember the Geoff Brabham Indycar, the purple Project Clod Buster, and others (I only have a hndafull of pre-2000 RCCAs in my room, the rest are down in the workshop).

I always wondered what you guys did with the stuff you built for magazine articles. I also thought it odd that Bill O'Brien would tear down the Blackfoot body he modified for the Behemoth (6 wheels, two Blackfoot rear ends for 4WD) to make the Foot Soldier (An all camoflouge Blackfoot with Clod tires and a 35mm anti-aircraft gun in the bed.... but an all-chrome chassis?)

I remember there was much more 'original' stuff back then. Now it's mostly bolt-together affairs, and not as much custom-made stuff.

pudder

03-23-2003, 09:37 AM

I would have to agree with you steve. Even though I have only been in this hobby 3 years, I have heard many stories and stuff from years ago. It really sounds like people were more creative, and had a lot more electric moster trucks. Oh well, things change...

StevePond

03-23-2003, 10:28 AM

K - I don't have any of it left unfortunately. I really like some of those projects, but my shop is only so big. They get pirated over time for later projects, and before long, you have a well-picked carcass that's not much use at all. Of course hindsight tells me I should have left a few of my favorites intact, but you don't think about that when you're all pumped up about a new project and you need the parts. Oh well... :D

pudder

03-23-2003, 10:33 AM

If you're running out of some storage space, or just don't want something anymore, feel free to send it up to me. :D

Say Steve, is RCCA going to do a "19 turn Spec Motor Shootout" anytime in the future? I would really like to see that...

mnmrc

04-05-2003, 09:23 PM

Does anyone know where I can find an exploded view of the Stealth tranny online?

SteveK

04-05-2003, 11:11 PM

RC10.com has to have something on it. If not an exploded view at least the manuals. The cases and diff parts (Gear, rings, outdrives) are different, but the Stealth is just about identical through all the 2WD vehicles, from the Team Car to the T3 to the GT.

highroller

04-07-2003, 01:30 PM

I own 4 different kits now had about 6-8 in different configurations from offroad to onroad/oval gear box, sprint car.
1. has been restored to original condition, even the kit tires
2. 2 have the composite craft graphite chassis
3. using a Advanced Agitator onroad/oval chassis
Plus I have a MIP tranning, chain drive and belt drive tranny conversions.
The cars that I sold
1. Ascot sprinter
2. MIP 4wd conversion
3. JG monter truck conversion kit
4. one built with aftermarket parts MIP, Thorp, Hot Trick, JG etc with the shaved and lighten chassis.

mnmrc

04-11-2003, 10:47 PM

Thanks Stevek.

mnmrc

04-16-2003, 08:16 PM

Okay, I have question. What size are the four screws that hold the Stealth tranny in? Im putting a Stealth tranny into my #6010 kit. Thats the the only mod I need to make right?

SteveK

04-16-2003, 09:11 PM

If you bought the tranny, it should have everything in the box, including that drill guide to mount it (So much easier than locating the holes yourself: Just bolt it down using the rear arm mount holes and drill).

Anyway, the screws are 4-40 x 3/8" flathead screws. Associated sells all the screws in a package, #6567.

mnmrc

04-17-2003, 07:14 PM

Beautimus. Thanks again Stevek.

terbo38

05-13-2003, 03:27 PM

I got an old gold car,I need tires,anyone know where I can get tires? offroad spikes rear 1.6 ribbed fronts 1.9

Is there a way to adapt the new wheels to it so I can get tires easy?

Should I just buy the new car?
Electric?
Nitro?

I've been thinking about this for a while,don't know if I want to go for another electric,a nitro or a big gas buggy like the old Jac-Rabbit.

SteveK

05-13-2003, 04:19 PM

The car will work better with new tires. Front wheels should transfer over to all newer Associated wheels, but you need wheels for the 1/4" axle in the rear, not the newer 3/16" wheels.

These wheels should fit:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2447&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2446&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2445&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2906&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2907&P=7

You might have to pay attention to the tire size, as those are a hair smaller than the current 2.2" wheels. You can use the new wheels up front, as well as in the rear if you replace the bearings and axles.

With the exception of Pro-Line's waffle tread tires, I don't know of any other 1.6" rear tires on the market.

For not a lot of money you could upgrade the original RC10 to more modern specs and have a car that's as good and reliable as any on the market today (For bashing at least, the newer cars are better on the track).

The biggest differences between the RC10 you have and the later Team Car/Championship Editions are:
- Front suspension arms. Easy add-on, Tower still sells the new, longer arms.
- New wheels. Covered already.
- Stealth tranny. This is a big difference if you can afford, but then you are up around the price of a whole new car.
- Shocks. The newer 'black topped' shocks are smoother, more reliable, and easier to rebuild.

It might just be cheaper and easier to buy a new car, but unless you are racing, aside from the monetary issue (Mainly with the tranny), it's not absolutely necessary.

mnmrc

05-13-2003, 08:18 PM

I've been rebuilding my gold car also. I just got a Duratrax Itellispeed 16t esc and a 17t Peak Racing motor. I ran it last night with street tires on it. It drove pretty good but doesnt jump well at all. I bought a shock rebuild kit from Tower and did the rebuild. At any kind of speed it goes ass up and over to land on the roof. I put 50wt oil in the shocks and have red springs in the rear and green in the front. I had green springs in the rear and it did pretty much the same thing but bottomed out a lot more. Its been a long time since I have "set up " a car. Any thoughts?:)

BADRAPINC

05-13-2003, 10:32 PM

I will look into a set of tires, think I saw some on another site for sale. I will find that site and let you know T38...

Anemic_SluG

06-11-2003, 04:41 AM

I have picked up in a trade a Masami team edition RC10 in neon green. It sounded a little different. Anyone have any info on this car???

SteveK

06-11-2003, 11:40 AM

Pictures? I've never heard of a Masami Edition, at least not in this country.

Associated did offere a bunch of powder-coated chassis for the RC10 and 10T, including neon green.

mnmrc

06-13-2003, 10:50 PM

I havent heard of a Masami Edition either.:( That would have been pretty damn cool though. I would have bought one!

Chvman3

06-25-2003, 11:41 AM

Just came into an original RC10 (paid $9.95 for it almost done rebuiling and cleaning) and it's missing a few things tires,rims and a body was hoping somebody could fill me in on some replacements that would work. In case anybody was wondering no I am not a newbie I've got 4 other vehicles in my collection. Thanks for the help.

Chvman3

Anemic_SluG

06-25-2003, 01:23 PM

Tower Hobbies still has original RC10 bodies and a few parts. Good Luck, and dammit $9.95 what a deal. I'll give you $9.96 for it! He He :D

Chvman3

07-04-2003, 11:56 PM

While restoring my RC10 I realized that the original tires on the rear were 1.6" I've been looking everywhere and cannot seem to find this size tire anywhere. I was hoping somebody knew of a tire (from a different kit or company) that would fit this rim. Also finding the original body in good shape could take some time and money so I was wondering what other bodies will fit. Last question is "Has anybody tried to bleach the white nylon parts?" I have a new set that I'm going to dye but the old(dirty set) I was hoping I could bleach back a least a little whiter. Thanks in advance for the help.

SteveK

07-05-2003, 12:12 AM

This is the only pair of tires I know of that will fit the old stock wheels. Possibly the RC10DS tires will fit as well. Until fairly recently Duratrax still made a line of 1/6" rear tires.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT89&P=7

Good question about bleaching the white parts: If they can be dyed why can't they be bleached? You could try it with some small part you don't really need, in case it gets eaten away or something.

Chvman3

07-05-2003, 09:47 AM

Was looking on ebay today and saw some stuff I know a few of you will be interested in just use "RC10" in the search field. There were 2 Green nose plates, a whole GREEN chassis, a BLUE motor plate and I think thats all. thought I'd let you guys know. By the was I think I'm going to try to bleaching idea tonight I'll let you all know how it comes out.

SteveK

07-05-2003, 11:10 AM

Yeah, Associated released chassis and noseplates in several colors: Green, blue, red, orange, and maybe one more color. Didn't see them too often though.

corwin99

07-10-2003, 12:59 PM

Does anyone know where there would be an online manual for these? I wanna have a reference just in case :)

lil_general_lee

07-29-2003, 02:42 AM

The RC10 was my first car as well. I have two now, One is all gold/white with a MIP 3 gear conversion, and the other is basically a "new" RC10 with all new parts. I was suprised when I saw that the MIP tranny internals were all metal, with outdrives that screwed onto the diff plates with 3 screws (old technology :) ). Anyways, my hobby shop has a graphite RC10 and I was wondering if I should spring for it.. Same price as it was whenever it was released? lol.

lil_general_lee

08-07-2003, 04:00 AM

Well, I just picked up a pre stealth RC10 that is all gold/white. The shock collars arn't even stripped :) What sizes are all the tranny bearings (same as current models with the exception of the idler gears?)? The car just needs a cleaning and a rebuild. While it's apart I think I'll throw bearings in it.

Chvman3

08-15-2003, 10:34 PM

Finally rebuilt my RC10 and think it all came out pretty good. Being the person that I am I refuse to have it sit on a shelf so I charged my battery and headed outside. Things were going great for awhile then I noticed I had some gliching so I got the car to move the reciever and noticed my motor was VERY HOT to the touch. I know the motor and ESC are a good set and have not had this problem before and the gear mesh is also good. My thoughts our that my gear ratio is wrong. I have checked what I'm running for gears yet (not sure if the person I bought it from changed them or not) but was hoping somebody could help out if I told them I was running a 20 turn stock motor. Thanks in advance. I'll have pics up soon.

vtl1180ny

08-16-2003, 08:26 AM

I have a never used RPM RC10 chassis with arms and everything... I use the same chassis in my 10T and have never broken anything in over 10 years.... I'm still unsure what I'm going to do with the 10 chassis, I was going to build up a buggy off of it when I first bought it but never got the chance...

RCB3

08-17-2003, 11:15 AM

lil general- the bearings are all different from the stealth.

CHvyman-the gearing depends on which tranny you have. If its the original 6 gear tranny then the tranny ratio is 1.87, if it's the original stealth then it is 2.25.

old 6 gear-16 to 87
stealth-18 to 81
these are if you are going to run on the street.They should give you good speed and run time.

Chvman3

08-18-2003, 01:48 AM

Ok I am running the original 6 gear transmission with a 20 turn motor. I still plan on running it offroad. So I'm hoping somebody has a good idea of what pinion/spur gear combination to use. If not let me know what combination your running and what motor. Also am I right in asumming that the spur and pinion are 64 pitch?
Thanks again..

RCB3

08-20-2003, 02:34 PM

Depending on the size of the track, I would start at about a 14 to 87 in 48 pitch.I used to run on a medium size track that had about a 60 ft straight away and I usually want to top out on speed at about 45 ft, unless it had tight turns or big jumps where the lower gearing would help.

Chvman3

08-21-2003, 11:40 PM

I know this is going to sound stupid but lately I have noticed alot of stealth transmissions for the RC10gt on ebay at a good price. So my question is would it be possible to remove the brake and change spur gears and mount THIS transmission to an original RC?

SteveK

08-22-2003, 01:36 AM

The motor might be a little further back than normal, and you'd have to fabricate a way to mount it to the chassis and a motor mount, but the GT tranny should fit.

I almost did that myself: I have enough parts to built a 10T and a DS, but only 1 tranny. It was either buy new parts to mix with my own to make a second one, or buy a GT tranny. Then I found a whole 10T for $40, so I went for that and got a new tub chassis and nose plate (Straightened mine for an oval truck) as well as tons of other spares, plus some nice tires and wheels I've been meaning to sell on ebay.

RCB3

08-22-2003, 09:54 AM

I've got a 10T with a T2 tranny. The downside is you have to cut a hole in the tub to get it to set as low as possible and to be supported correctly.

The chassis also came in hot pink, red and I believe in yellow also.

lil_general_lee

08-26-2003, 02:11 AM

Well, I finished rebuilding my 2nd RC10. I have everything but the original front tires. If anyone has an extra set please let me know, Everything is original, just missing front tires :( lol

Chvman3

08-28-2003, 01:52 AM

ok well i finally got a stealth transmission it's the RPM 2.65 for the RC10T. Only thing it needs is the two bearings for the output shafts (same ones as a regu;ar stealth tranny). Should be here next week got it for $20.00 shipped from another forum. Anyways was hoping somebody could help me out. I'm in need of the drilling template to go from the 6 gear tranny to the stealth. I was hoping somebody could scan thiers and email it to me. Thanks in advance. Chvman3@aol.com

RCB3

08-30-2003, 02:21 AM

I don't have a scanner otherwise I would send it to you, but I can tell you that you can use the RPM tranny to make one. If not I'll try to get you the part # for the metal one that came with the stealth kit. I run an RPM tranny in my 10T and it's awesome.:D

The bearings are also the same size as the B3 front and rear wheel bearings and the middle gear in the stealth.

Chvman3

09-03-2003, 09:03 AM

Ok after my first post about this template it dawned on me that most peolpe might not still have this so I was hoping that sombody that did put a stealth tranny on an original gold chassis RC10 could trace all of the holes to mount the tranny on paper(including the holes for the six gear tranny so I can line it up) and scan it for me. I know this is asking alot but the only way I have found to get the template is to buy the whole stealth transmission kit for $80.00.
Thanks again,
Chvman3@aol.com

Also lil General Lee do you need the rims or the actual tire? If my memory suits me correctly the rims were 3 piece three spoke correct.

RCB3

09-05-2003, 02:37 PM

My hobby shop still sells the template and said that you can get it directly from AE. The template mounted to the arm mount holes for alignment.

The wheels were 3 spoke and 3 piece.

dog8spam

10-22-2003, 09:37 PM

Im thinking of trading for an RC10, what problems do you have with them? Also what should I look for in a used one?

SteveK

10-22-2003, 11:38 PM

Do you want a collector or a runner? If you want a runner, look for the Stealth tranny and shocks with black caps: These are the more modern parts and easier to get replacements for (Also work better than the originals). You can get virtually all the parts still: They may not match the oldest versions, or be white, but they will fit and work.

dog8spam

10-23-2003, 07:59 AM

How can you tell if its stealth?

SteveK

10-23-2003, 09:58 AM

If it doesn't say, the Stealth has a more molded-looking case, almost shaped around the gears. The original tranny had a blockier case, more squared-off.

TeamDemonSpeed

10-23-2003, 10:27 AM

i have 3 rc 10s 2 modded and one origional. i still race one of the modded ones it has alum. front arms and the a&l rear swingarm kit which is alum. also. if anyone wants or needs parts for their origional 10's let me know. i have many parts NIP that i received in a recent trade. i put my modded 10 against a new B4 and smoked it like a bad cigar. the dude was kinda mad but, thats racing for ya!

T3GT

10-23-2003, 12:12 PM

Nothin like the original huh.......:D

RCB3

10-30-2003, 12:59 AM

The original had an external ball diff.

rccarman5

11-02-2003, 01:16 AM

i'm looking for an online instruction manual to my rc10 grapite buggy, where can i download one?

rccarman5

11-02-2003, 04:01 PM

ok i'm trying to find some shocks for my rc10 graphite buggy and cannot get teh right sizes. i dont know what the size up front and rear are.

i think they are:

.71 up front and 1.32 in the rears?

i sthat right? let me know.

SteveK

11-02-2003, 08:56 PM

Right on both accounts. The rears will need several down-travel spacers so many people do without those and go with shafts from the 1.02" shocks (Allows for more oil in the bodies).

I don't know if you have to do that, just dry-build the shocks first and test them out to see. Measure both shafts (If your LHS has them on the wall) and if the amount of down-travel limiters is more than the difference in the two shafts, go with the shorter ones.

rccarman5

11-02-2003, 09:07 PM

yeah i have the old shafts, and teh spacers. i lost the instruction manual. so i'm stuck only w/ my memory.

mattm58

11-13-2003, 03:10 PM

I made a for-sale post including two RC-10s, one aluminum pan chassis and one graphite, along with lots of spare parts. I also have the original manuals.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=147119

jwrape

11-26-2003, 09:09 AM

Here are mine http://www.******.net/media/MVC-011F---rcp3.jpg

This is what happens when a Losi JRX2 and a RC10 collide.
http://www.******.net/media/MVC-006F---rcp3.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/MVC-005F---rcp2.jpg

Basically only thing left on this one that is RC10 is the front end.
I bought one of Tower hobbies Scratch and Dent kits for the JRX2 Rear end and then put my RC10 with it and made what you see. It actually is a good buggy. BUT haven't run either one of these for over 10 years.

GT Freak

11-26-2003, 01:05 PM

you guys got nice rides but you need to quiet them down, I have a COMPLETE belt drive conversion kit i got from a friend for a origanal rc10. all belt and gears are in tack. perfect condition. now if i could find a rc 10??

dog8spam

12-07-2003, 01:19 PM

I just got an RC10 and need to know a few things. First the tranny is missing what is the topshaft on most cars but I guess on this one the diff. It did have two gears and a thrust bearing with washers, one of which has a plastic thing in the middle. I have no clue what holds them togeather.

Secondly I need to know how to bleach parts because the a-ams are hot pink.:(

dog8spam

12-07-2003, 04:33 PM

I need a new tranny. I cant find a diff for a six-gear tranny anywhere. I will trade what I got or pay for anything that works. (If someone wants it for a collectors car.)

Milos

12-11-2003, 05:20 AM

Well basically I have a Rc10 graphite from way back in 89 and I have a few questions if someone could help me out. I do have some after market Andy's a arms front and rear. Other than those if I remember correctly everything else was stock on it. First of all would the new bodies and rear wing fit this old chassis? My body is trashed and the original rear wing is MIA. Second of all does anyone know where to acquire the lexan tranny cover it was missing when I finally found my car and my old Protech charger from yester year. I am planning to rebuild it the stealth tranny is still fully operational I dismantle and reassemble it recently. It's actually in pretty good condition considering I haven't seen it in like 11 years it's been in storage. I ran a battery through it just today and it still drives pretty well though it's in need of some new wheels and tires. Any information would be apreciatted. When I'm done restoring it I will post some pics.

dog8spam

12-13-2003, 12:24 PM

You can fit wheels from the GT and the B4, depending on the axle.
The B4 and new GTs use 3/16 axles in the rear, both are interchangable though the B4s is wider and you will need a conical spacer. I would reccomend the B4 axles. Older GTs and the RC10 use 1/4 axles, they have the taper and are really thick. You can still get 1/4 GT wheels but none from the B4. I would go to 3/16 since the bearings are bigger and harder to blow and there is more tire selection.

Up front I have metric parts in the carrier but I am pretty sure they are after market. I am willing to bet the stock carriers and front axles are the same as in the GT since all the rest of the suspention parts are interchangeable. B4 front wheels I am not so sure about, though they are SAE also and you can always get bearings if you need to.

You may be wondering why anyone would put GT wheels on an RC10. I dont have much money and plan to put GT A-arms+ wheels on it and race it with the trucks since the buggies are so much smaller now and the rc10 is the size of a truck. It also is better for thrashing.

Doomed

12-16-2003, 10:23 AM

Hey guys, found some great info in this thread! But does anyone know where I can find original chrome rear wheels? I found the fronts at Assoc's site(see pic)...

... but can't find the rears.

Thanks,

Dana

dog8spam

12-16-2003, 06:53 PM

GT Freak are you talking about a belt drive tranny? If so Id be intrested in it if you would be willing to sell it.

If you want an RC10 roller ask TexRacer, he offered me one for $50. He sold me a Legends a while back and I had no problems.

Doomed

12-20-2003, 04:16 PM

Here's another one, will the "RC10GT Stealth Transmission" work on my RC10 gold tub?

SteveK

12-20-2003, 05:12 PM

Doomed-

No and maybe. No, it won't directly fit, but maybe with some modifications. It looks like the motor will sit further back than stock, so you might have problems clearing the rear bend.

I thought about buying one on eBay, they were about $25 at that point in the auction, but then I found a whole 10T for $45, so I went with that.

Doomed

12-20-2003, 05:42 PM

Yea, saw those on ebay too. Tower has a new complete stealth for around $90. It's really expensive but it's looking better. Any reason other then price not to go with the one from Tower?

Thanks again for the info Steve,
Dana

SteveK

12-20-2003, 11:11 PM

Price is pretty much it: You can rebuild one for less than that, and buy a complete used RC10, 10T, or DS for less than the price of just the tranny.

A used vehicle is really the way to go, unless the tranny is really beat. Or see if you can find an RC10DS Qualifier kit, which was around $100 when it was still out (Though it lacked bearings, it was worth it for the rest of the stuff).

Doomed

12-21-2003, 06:35 PM

Don't know what a DS is but I have been looking at for anything that has a stealth tranny. Thanks Steve.
D

GT Freak

12-21-2003, 06:39 PM

the E-ds has been dq'd but the nds is still out, check tower for pricing

SteveK

12-21-2003, 08:33 PM

The Nitro DS would have the GT tranny, not the buggy tranny. It's basically a GT with the DS suspension parts.

For those that don't know, the RC10DS (Dual Sport, whatever that was supposed to stand for) was Associated's attempt to break into the new parking lot scene around 1996. There weren't as many 4WD toruing cars as now, so people weren't quite set on that as the cars that everybody would use in the future, and many of the tracks were still just parking lots, many rough and dirty.

Associated figured that taking their old tub-chassis RC10 and making it narrower and lower would be better for the typical parking lot than the newest belt-drive touring cars. Unfortunately, the cars never really took off, but they are very slick machines.

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitds.htm

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/80808081.jpg

There were a couple versions: The Team had the green Teflon shocks with bearings and universals, the Sport had gold shocks, bushings, and dogbones, and a body in the kit. Both had turnbuckles, full Stealth trannies and slipper clutches, and brand new rubber front and rear tires and wheels. The DS-only bodies are really slick, as good as anything HPI puts out.

There was also a conversion kit for any tub-chassis cars, which basically included everything but the chassis, tranny, body, and a few screws and nuts. Eventually the Qualifier came out, with bushings, composite shocks, no slipper, and foam tires (On the same size wheels).

There were soon nitro versions of all the Dual Sports as well.

As of a year ago, the DS Qualifiers were $100 for the rolling chassis: You got a car with a ball diff, oil shocks, bronze bushings, foam tires, a nice body, turnbuckles, a decent motor, a fully sealed drivetrain, and quality as good as any cars out there at any price.

I think Associated could have really made a dent in the basher market if they just reworked the DS slightly to use 190mm and/or 200mm touring car bodies (They fit, but not perfectly), and standard touring car wheels and tires. I've been meaning to convert my car to that style for a while now.

Doomed

12-22-2003, 01:20 AM

Thanks for the enlightenment Steve and GT Freak. :D Even more info for me to pour over. Gotta love Google. I would love to find a clean DS on ebay. For now I am going to attempt to rebuild my 6 gear until I can find a clean stealth. All the parts are there, they just look bad.
D

Doomed

12-30-2003, 09:17 AM

O.K. guys, I have another question. Can you just paint over the anodizing on the gold tub? And with what type of paint?

Doomed

01-02-2004, 05:57 PM

Still no answers? I posted this like last year! :D

SteveK

01-03-2004, 07:20 PM

Any paint that would stick to metal would probably work on the chassis, but I would recommend sanding off or otherwise stripping the anodizing and getting down to bare metal so the primer will stick better.

The problem is even the best paint and primer application probably won't be as durable as the stock gold anodizing or the black powder-coating on the later chassis'. Plus the time it would take. I would look into getting it anodized or powder-coated before spending all the time and money on stripping and painting it yourself.

microrcdude

01-04-2004, 07:38 PM

well, my bro and i are rebuilding his DS to be a RC10 buggy. It's been a fun project!

Doomed

01-04-2004, 08:30 PM

Thanks Steve, thats about what I thought about painting the tub. I know the difficult/proper way to go about it. E-Z off the gold anodizing, use a cutting primer, then paint. I just wanted some thing that will stick and not just flake off by looking at it without the work! And the shops around here look at me like I am an alien when I ask about anodizing an RC car frame.

dog8spam

01-09-2004, 02:58 PM

I have an article that tells how to anodize at home. Basically you have to let the part sit in sulfuric acid charged by a 12v charger then you boil it and add dye. Theres alot more to it if you want the whole thing let me know.

Also I still need a tranny if anyone has one they are willing to sell let me know.

Anemic_SluG

01-09-2004, 06:25 PM

What kind of tranny are you looking for???? I have a 6 gear original one with white cases that seems to be in working order. It just doesn't have a slipper. I would have to find out how much it is worth if I ever need to byu one for my RC10. I have 2 RC10's but one os converted to a stealth. LMK

dog8spam

01-09-2004, 07:23 PM

Im looking for a stealth I have a 6 gear missing the complete topshaft assembly and its VERY hard to find parts.

Doomed

01-10-2004, 09:39 AM

dog8spam- Thanks for the reply, I have looked into anodizing at home and I don't think I want the hassle. I know you said you want a Stealth but I have some NIP six gear tranny parts. Does anyone have an exploded view of the tranny?

Doomed

01-25-2004, 12:16 AM

Alright, it's not done yet but I wanted to post some pics of my latest project...

http://www.pbase.com/image/25430965.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/image/25430944.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/image/25430971.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/image/25430990.jpg

rampbrian

01-31-2004, 07:36 AM

that is soo sick.

I have a og rc 10. its got a white, pre stealth tranny.

the rims and tires are beat. and I have no boddy for it.

can any one hook me up with a link to find some rims that will fit, ( the pin for the drive shaft thing, is flared a little bit, and newer rc10 rims wont fit over the flange and mate with the pin. ) and allow me to use some new style tires, ( like the ones on the b4? )

SteveK

01-31-2004, 12:26 PM

You have a couple of options for that:
- The front wheels should still be the same, using 3/16" x 3/8" bearing. Worst-case you replace the front carriers and axles, which will be all of $6-10.

- For rear wheels, you should still be able to find wheels for the 1/4" x 3/8" axles. Basically any wheel that doesn't say B2, B3, or B4 on it should work. Tower has a selection of them now.

- Or you could convert your car to 3/16" x 3/8" rear axles to use newer wheels. You'll need the axles, not sure of the part #, and four 3/16" x 3/8" bearings, and maybe some pins and shims, I'm not positive. Those new bearings will be more durable and last longer than the thinner, more delicate 1/4" ID ones (Trucks really put a pounding on them).

Doomed

02-03-2004, 10:58 AM

Originally posted by rampbrian
that is soo sick.

I have a og rc 10. its got a white, pre stealth tranny.

the rims and tires are beat. and I have no boddy for it.

can any one hook me up with a link to find some rims that will fit, ( the pin for the drive shaft thing, is flared a little bit, and newer rc10 rims wont fit over the flange and mate with the pin. ) and allow me to use some new style tires, ( like the ones on the b4? )

Thanks for the good words! These are the ones I used...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2902

but I am not sure of my axle size.

SteveK

02-05-2004, 01:02 AM

Well, if your rear bearings are the same size as the front ones, then you have the 3/16" axles, and you'll need the B2/B3/B4 rear wheels, not 'RC10' wheels. RC10 generally means any of the pre-B buggies.

Old_RC10_Dude

02-16-2004, 02:58 PM

I still run mine. I have a Losi XXX-T MATT FRANCIS too. I have an RC10 (Gold Chassis), a TQ10 (Graphite) thats the one that i mostly run, and a BRAND NEW GOLD CAR that I will use just for show and just to have!!! It's sweet

SteveK

02-16-2004, 05:09 PM

The TQ10, that's an interesting car. At the time the RC10 was still the gold tub chassis with the 1.6" rear wheels and balloon tires. Horizon Hobbies commissioned Associated to supply everything but the chassis, wheels/tires, and body, which they replaced with a graphite plates chassis, low-profile dish racing wheels and tires, and a sleeker body. They basically gave the RC10 fans the car they wanted before Associated did. A short time later the RC10 Grahite, with similar plate chassis and wheels and tires, and new front arms and shock tower geometry, was released by Associated.

Horizon would later commission Losi to build the GTX nitro racing truck, which they would not have made without a garaunteed number of orders from Horizon.

Anemic_SluG

02-16-2004, 07:43 PM

Hi anyone out there know where I can get 2 sets of front nose tubes for a rc10. I have a gold chasis that needs some they were the only parts missing, and a green chassis that are bent. Any info on where to get them would be great! I have looked on ebay and nothing for months now.
Thanks!

fuzzy2133

02-16-2004, 09:45 PM

www.towerhobbies.com has them as well as lots of other parts. As you can see I have a long ways to go.

BearWash

02-22-2004, 08:11 PM

Hi,

I just listed my never-used RC10 Team Car on Ebay. Not looking to make a million dollars but do want the proceeds to buy a micro heli.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3177559284

I have also started a thread under For Sale/Trade.

Steve

jrjr

02-22-2004, 08:42 PM

I am racing my RC10 in a carpet oval truck class. It now has Proline Striker II tires all the way around, Team shocks, carbon fiber chassis, and titanium links. I am looking to bullet proof the front end (and rear too I suppose) and wondered if there were aluminum C Hubs and associated parts available anywhere. 10T, T2 or T3 parts should work. RPM is probably the way to go for the arms, and I want a really good strong front bumper too. The Andy's that was on it just got broken last weekend and slightly crunched the corner of my chassis.

Yea, I know, stay out of wrecks right? Well you all know about that I am sure!

Any suggestions or parts links would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Million

02-23-2004, 09:23 AM

Can you replace the original rims with the B2/B3 dish rims with out any adaptors or adjustments?

SteveK

02-23-2004, 12:07 PM

jrjr-
Stick with RPM and stock parts for the front end: Aluminum doesn't do such a better job that it's worth the extensive extra cost.

And email RPM to get them to keep producing RC10 parts, like how they brought back the front arms: They used to make front bulkheads, caster blocks, steering blocks, and a huge front bumper.

For a bumper, the RPM RC10T/GT should fit with a few mods.

jwrape

02-23-2004, 12:23 PM

talk about far from new

jrjr

02-23-2004, 06:23 PM

Originally posted by SteveK
jrjr-
Stick with RPM and stock parts for the front end: Aluminum doesn't do such a better job that it's worth the extensive extra cost.

And email RPM to get them to keep producing RC10 parts, like how they brought back the front arms: They used to make front bulkheads, caster blocks, steering blocks, and a huge front bumper.

For a bumper, the RPM RC10T/GT should fit with a few mods.

Thanks Steve
But I am still wondering about the aluminum stuff.
I installed the C hub and stub axle from a T3 this weekend and it worked.
These are for the GT but they look like they would fit:

http://www.teambluestar.com/gtchubs.htm

http://www.teambluestar.com/gtsteeringarms.htm

jrjr

02-27-2004, 12:42 PM

I have decided against the Aluminum parts. Research shows that while they do not break, they will bend. Bending then straightening will weaken the part. This is not the answer to 'bulletproof' I guess I will stick to the stock parts till I find another solution. Stainless steel maybe?? Good luck finding them! I may try my hand at custom fabrication.... hmmmm....

jrjr

02-28-2004, 10:09 PM

Here it is.....

jrjr

02-29-2004, 11:32 AM

Again

SteveK

02-29-2004, 02:23 PM

Looks pretty cool. Swap those Strikers for some buggy Dirt Hawgs and see how sweet it would look. You could also slap on that Associated Toyota Baja body no problem (It's designed to fit the original RC10). I should really snag one of those sometime.

jrjr

02-29-2004, 02:59 PM

Thanks! :D

I am racing this in a truck class on a carpet oval. I need a truck body and the strikers are what works on our track. I used to race this RC10 as a buggy on a dirt oval years ago. When they started up the truck class a couple of weeks ago, I got it going again with these revisions. Yesterday I did not start the first heat due to a broken shock tower, but won the 2nd heat and the A main!! I was racing against mostly B3's and they were a tenth or two faster in lap times than I was. I stayed out of the wrecks and that is why I won it. With a few more tweaks I will be at or better than their times....

Does anyone know if there is a swaybar available for the RC10?

dog8spam

02-29-2004, 06:21 PM

If you want to race it with trucks I would put GT a-arms on it, it would make it alot wider.

Im trading my rc10 for a good charger if anyone here is interested.

jrjr

02-29-2004, 07:31 PM

Originally posted by dog8spam
If you want to race it with trucks I would put GT a-arms on it, it would make it alot wider.

Im trading my rc10 for a good charger if anyone here is interested.

Actually, I think that the narrowness is an advantage since I can squeeze through a tighter space and avoid a wreck. As long as they allow it the way it is, I will keep running it!

What version of RC10 do you have and what kind of charger are you looking for?

I hope someone knows if there is a swaybar available or maybe some suggestions on making one. It would help a lot I think.

fuzzy2133

02-29-2004, 07:50 PM

jrjr - you could make a sway bar faster than you might find one for sale. hear is a templet for the first rc10 just mod the length if it needs to be wider. you will need to make up some sort of links to attach to the a-arms.

jrjr

02-29-2004, 08:47 PM

It needs to be fastened to the chassis as well doesnt it? I was looking at the bar on my 1:1 car today. It is attached to each arm, and also 2 points on the chassis towards the outside of the frame. My 1/10 X Ray is like that too only in the center the 2 piece swaybar joins with a ball and socket type deal that makes the right wheel lift when the left wheel lifts and vice versa.

I am thinking that piano wire could be used. I need to find some way to piviot the bar........

SteveK

03-01-2004, 12:42 AM

If memory serves me correctly, the 'black' front bulkheads/mounts have a little notch to old the swaybar wire, and some holes for screws to hold it down.

jrjr

03-01-2004, 05:57 AM

I am using the carbon fiber chassis rather than the aluminum one. No bulkhead.

SteveK

03-01-2004, 03:03 PM

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascc2307.jpg

Those are the front suspension arm mounts. See that little notch in the top? The swaybar slip into that, and is held down with a screw and possibly washer (The slot will line up when the two are put together normally).

jrjr

03-01-2004, 04:39 PM

Originally posted by SteveK
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascc2307.jpg

Those are the front suspension arm mounts. See that little notch in the top? The swaybar slip into that, and is held down with a screw and possibly washer (The slot will line up when the two are put together normally).

Ok, I got that. I see now. Now, what does it attach to on the arm? I guess the unused shock mounting hole.....

By the way, your pic had www2 in the url. I had to remove the 2 to see the pic but it worked.

dog8spam

03-01-2004, 05:16 PM

Its a goldtub with a 6-gear. I dont know what you mean by version.

As far as charger Im looking for something like an Intellipeak Deluxe or a 969. I will combine with cash if needed.

SteveK

03-01-2004, 09:02 PM

There were approximately 6 versions of the RC10 with a tub chassis: The original, which was pretty much unchanged from 1984 through 1989. It was replaced with the RC10 Championship Edition, which featured the upgraded components found on the RC10 Graphite (Longer front arms, low-profile wheels and tires, new shock towers, etc). In 1990 the Team Car was released, with new shocks, and the Stealth tranny, as well as a black powder-coated aluminum tub or graphite chassis. In 1991 they upgraded the RC10CE with the Stealth tranny. In 1994 the World's Car came out, with even more new parts and some new materials (A milled chassis, composite suspension pieces, etc).

Along the way the RC10T used the chassis and tranny from the Team Car in 1991, and the RC10DS used it as well in about 1995.

jrjr

03-01-2004, 09:07 PM

Would you happen to have a picture of a swaybar installed on an RC10?

fuzzy2133

03-01-2004, 09:20 PM

here is the best pic I have of the sway bar mounted. the arrow points to where you would use a small screw and washer to hold the sway bar in place.

jrjr

03-02-2004, 09:59 AM

Great thanks!
Then its just a matter of making up a short rod with ball cups to attach the arm to the sway bar. I can see that it needs to be adjustable and when you change your ride height the bar can be adjusted with the short rod. Not quite as good as the ball and cup blade style but it should work just fine for what I need it for.

Chvman3

03-04-2004, 12:11 AM

Ok guys I haven't been on here For a while but I've noticed alot of people in need of parts and the manual. Well I'm not sure what I have for parts but I know I have MOST of the 6 gear tranny parts still in the package and some chassis parts new and used. I'll get a list together tomorrow. In the mean time I do have the manual on disk. I'm not sure where I got it from ( I got it a while ago) however If your e-mail account can accept big files I will e-mail it to you. Or if somebody can post it somewhere I'll send it to them. Total file size is just over 6 megs done in about 30 jpegs.

Chvman3@comcast.net

dog8spam

03-04-2004, 09:43 PM

Do you have the topshaft/ diff assembly?

faceman75

03-05-2004, 09:59 AM

Does anyone have / know someone who has a new set of WHITE battery cups for the original RC-10? That is the last piece i need to restore my car.

Thanks,
Rick

dog8spam

03-05-2004, 10:28 AM

Does anyone know how to bleach parts? I bought a used RC10 and the front a-arms are dyed hot pink.

SteveK

03-05-2004, 11:45 AM

I will go to my LHS today and see if they have any white RC10 pieces left, I don't know either way but it couldn't hurt.

dog8spam-
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2510&P=7

I don't think bleaching would work with dyed parts, probably just dirty white ones.

Man, I would love to see Associated make a new batch of 'original' RC10s. The 20th anniversary is coming up in November, perfect time to do it. I bet they wouldn't be able to keep the white plastic in stock so many guys would but it to restore their old cars.

jrjr

03-05-2004, 10:32 PM

Here ya go!

http://www.jrjr.us/RC10/RC10.zip

jrjr

03-05-2004, 10:40 PM

I have the white nylon Stealth Tranny in my carbon fiber RC10, anyone have an exploded view or assembly instructions for it? I recently took it apart and cleaned everything up. Upon assembly there was a nylon bushing left over and it doesnt seem to 'fit' anywhere. I am not sure it was assembled correctly to begin with. It works fine as it is now but I would like to figure out what that part is for. Also, I am looking for a kit to eliminate the slipper. Thanks!

Chvman3

03-05-2004, 11:44 PM

Ok here we go I have one complete but used transmission (it is however missing the slipper assembly. The case is new but dyed green and the gears are used(but working) I still have the used trans case (still white) in ok shape. Sad to say though that all my chassis pieces were dyed green so that I had spares for my car( still drive it). I do have still in the package though.

1. two axle drive gears #6612
2. heavy duty front stub axles
3. diff shaft w/ left pinion #6618
4. spine plate
5. idle gear pivot #6610
6. diff pinions left and right #6620,6621
7. diff outer hub #6624
8 and part 6617 looks to be a diff tube.

As far as bleaching a dyed part back to white it won't work (tried it) you could however try a product made by dye rite to remove discoloration or to add the faded look. Look around the have all sorts of stuff.

rccarman5

04-05-2004, 05:29 PM

i also have a xxx-nt, which is my currect rc car.

SteveK

04-08-2004, 11:35 PM

If you were so inclined, you could clean and sell all that white stuff, replace it with newer black parts, and probably still make a profit.

rccarman5

04-08-2004, 11:53 PM

i am inclined but they aren't so white anymore. they're like yellow.

SteveK

04-11-2004, 01:25 PM

I wonder if bleach would eat the nylon, because that might help brighten them up a bit.

rccarman5

04-11-2004, 02:59 PM

I wonder if bleach would eat the nylon, because that might help brighten them up a bit.

that might work, but i dont know. how much would u say those parts would be worth?

403forbidden

04-13-2004, 07:58 AM

3 of my newly built RC10's

the RC10 Team Car and the RC10T near the bottom are NIB:

http://home.comcast.net/~rcortez2004/fifthscale/rc10a.JPG

rccarman5

04-13-2004, 11:39 PM

awsome!!!!!!!!

i love it!!!!!!

how much wouldu sell it, if u had to.

403forbidden

04-14-2004, 10:40 PM

awsome!!!!!!!!

i love it!!!!!!

how much wouldu sell it, if u had to.

thanks, but I don't think I could ever sell my cars...they are nostalgia to me ;)

namdam

04-18-2004, 06:40 PM

Does anyone know a good way to keep the rear axle bushings from sliding out while turning. Keep loosing dogbone springs, is the bushing shot or is the hub shot?

Just want to see if anyone else ran in to this problem with the original gold tub RC10.

Thanks

57HotrodVW

05-02-2004, 10:44 AM

Hey guys,

I stumbled across this forum after uncovering a forgotten, unused RC10 that I found at the top of a closet. I wondered if people were still interested in/running their old RC10's, and based on this forum, it looks like it!

I bought the RC10 kit from Tower Hobbies in 1986 (still have the receipt), started the assembly, and never completed it. I've since moved on to bigger motorized toys :) , but thought that one of the RC10 afficianados here may be interested in buying it.

I have the car, two instruction/assembly manuals, an Associated World Champs flyer, and a Team Associated newsletter from the Summer of 1984 (Vol 6, No 1)

I've included links few pics below, and you can find more at http://www.pbase.com/rc10/rc10

Please email me with questions.

Thanks!
-Eric

http://www.pbase.com/image/28520625 (pic1)

http://www.pbase.com/image/28520632 (pic2)

http://www.pbase.com/image/28520634 (pic3)

http://www.pbase.com/image/28520636 (pic4)

http://www.pbase.com/image/28520639 (pic5)

Mr. Furious

05-09-2004, 12:25 PM

Hey all. I just picked up an unbuilt #6011 RC10. Back in the day I had the original car but as a stupid teenager sold it as a box of parts after a huge crash. Anyways...My nostalgia got the best of me and I got this kit on ebay. It's like new and most of the bags are still sealed. The only things assembled are the chassis and front bulkhead. It comes with the Stealth tranny, motor, body etc. I was wondering if these kits came with bearings at all or if the entire care was bushings? Any suggestions on building it? I actually plan to use the included MSC to keep it old school(that's what my old car had and I won almost every week even though I was told I wouldn't be competitive without an ESC). Anyways, any info on my kit would be appreciated.

Upstate Bob

05-17-2004, 12:15 AM

Alright, it's not done yet but I wanted to post some pics of my latest project...

http://www.pbase.com/image/25430990.jpg

I cannot stress enough just how hot that is.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

zerogravity58

05-20-2004, 10:37 AM

If anyone is looking for manuals i have my manual from my RC10 with the stealth tranny. If someone would host the pages i would scan the manual.

toast

05-20-2004, 11:35 AM

Brand spanking new rc10ce with brand spanking new mip 4-10 legend kit installed.

I haven't messed with my RC10 in a long time but I'm intrested again. I noticed your mip 4-10 legend kit installed and I've never seen this. When I was racing I was only 11 years old so it's been a long time. I'm thinking I could build some type of kit like this myself but I am unsure of how the front end is constructed (differential, axles, ext...) You supplied a pic of your front end on a previous post and I was wondering if you could provide me with multiple close up pics and details about the kit's front end. While you are at it some pics of the rear portion of the conversion might help to. Thanks in advance for your time.

zerogravity58

05-20-2004, 08:31 PM

here is the latest project i finished the other night. Still needs to have the wheels aligned and i need to pick up some shrink wrap for the wires.

Doomed

05-25-2004, 12:30 PM

I cannot stress enough just how hot that is.

:eek: :eek: :eek:

Thanks Upstate Bob!

dm76

05-29-2004, 11:46 AM

Hey SteveP,
I was wondering if you can tell me the month and year (89?) of the RCCA that contained a track test on the TQ-10. You had mentioned it somewhere in the beginning of this forum. I doubt that Car Action has this back issue for sale due to its age, but if anyone has one or knows the month/year, let me know! my TQ-10 is posted on page one, and am still trying to restore it. Almost There! Thanks

SteveK

05-30-2004, 12:35 AM

I have that issue in my workshop. I believe is was early in 1990, as my collection started in April '89 and I believe it was a January issue.

dm76

05-30-2004, 01:38 PM

Thanks for the info Steve.

mathewj

05-31-2004, 06:58 PM

Here is my RC 10 Team car, hasn't seen action in almost a decade, currently selling it so I can get a Losi Mini T cause I am never going to race again and just don't have the space for the 1/10th scale car and the parts....

[/URL] http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mjancsics1/ebay/teamcar.JPG

GT Freak

06-11-2004, 02:29 AM

nice ride, do u know where i can get some outdrives for a rc10 at?? i have a friend who needs a set

sd2602

06-22-2004, 10:44 AM

I just got done giving my worlds car some upgrades, i am going to be racing it here in the next week or so. Everything is original except for the front and rear arms, which are from a B3 and B4, i also installed some CVDs from a B4. I couldnt find an original RC10 Worlds Car body so i got a B3 body instead. I guess its the RC10 B3/4 Worlds!

Doomed

06-22-2004, 11:59 AM

Throw some pics up!

JakeE

07-02-2004, 03:33 AM

So I'm looking to fix up my championship edition (Stealth tranny) circa 1992. From what I've read I can use B2/B3 (B4?) rear rims if I convert to 3/16" axles. New front rims should work fine with the existing front axles, right? Here's what I think I'll need to use the newer rear rims:

Rear hub carriers (for non-flanged bearings): RC10T rear hub carriers (3° toe) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2938&P=0)
B2/B3 CVDs (3/16" axles): MIP CVD Kit for B2/B3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW90&P=0)
3/16" x 3/8" bearings (x4): Duratrax 3/16 x 3/8 bearings (pair) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD088&P=0) x2

Can someone tell me if this will work, or if I need to make any changes. Also, will this limit me to B2/B3 rims or are B4 rims compatible as well (I don't know if there is a difference).

Out of curiousity has anyone ever gone extra wide with an RC10, ie. RC10T arms but retaining buggy rims and tires. If so did you use the stock shock towers and front shocks? Obviously the turnbuckles and dogbones would have to be longer and some of the hinge pins might need to be changed.

BigAaron

07-06-2004, 05:02 AM

About the wide rc10 buggy, I had been thinking the same thing for a while and I just started my own project tonight. I realized I had enough spare parts to almost build an entire car! I am gonna use a combination of car and truck parts with car wheels and tires. Should be cool and inexpensive. Here's what I got done tonight. It has an origional rc10 rear shock tower/bulkhead, truck front shock tower, truck front shocks in front and in back truck rear shock bodies and springs with truck front length shafts. Composite craft steering, chassis stiffeners, rc10gt/t2 RPM arms and rear arm mounts, truck front end, truck spindles. I will change some stuff, this is basically a mock up to see how everything works. I need a transmission and cvd's plus a few misc parts to finish it. Here's a pic of tonight's progress:

sd2602

07-06-2004, 02:21 PM

I just got done making my RC10 Worlds Car into a B3/B4 variant. I had to use B4 cvd bones with B3 axles. I havent had a chance to post pics but i will soon. Everything you said should work, i got it to work for me with only having to modify a few parts.

JakeE

07-06-2004, 10:13 PM

I was able to use B3 rims (front (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW00&P=0), rear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW06&P=0)) with the parts I listed earlier. I'll have to fit the wheels from my B4 to see if they'll work.

JakeE

07-07-2004, 02:26 PM

The B4 front rims fit but the rears are a no go. The inside edge of the rim hits the hub carrier.

JakeE

07-13-2004, 12:48 AM

To those that have mentioned using B3 or B4 suspension components: I'd be curious to know what you're using for A-arm mounts, hub carriers, etc. Does the track end up being wider due to increased A-arm length or does the difference in offset between the B3 and B4 rims negate the effect?

sd2602

07-13-2004, 01:45 PM

Sorry i havent posted any pics yet. I will get to it soon. Anyways, i used all B3/B4 arms but the worlds car front suspension mounts, they fit nicely, for the rear hub carriers i had to remove some of the piece to make it work. It does increase the overall length though of the car.

NOHC

07-15-2004, 11:46 PM

It warms my heart to see so many aluminum RC10 enthusiasts. :D I'm in the middle of restoring my original RC10 for display.

http://img26.photobucket.com/albums/v79/NOHC_WBody/rc10_002.jpg

I've been collecting all the white parts I could get my hands on over the years. I've got a pre-stealth gold tub & a set of shock bodies still in the bag, just waiting on the conclusion of the hunt. :cool:

I'm lacking the:

ball cups, threaded rods, front caster blocks, rear tires, rear arms(those in the pic are chewed up on the bottom) & the wing mounts.

My wife thinks I'm crazy, but to justify it, all I have to say is "it's an RC car, would you rather I be throwing money at a full sized one?" :D

AND, My good luck charm. The matching A-Arm to the only Worlds car front arm I ever managed to break.

http://img26.photobucket.com/albums/v79/NOHC_WBody/aarmkeyring.jpg

JakeE

09-17-2004, 12:07 AM

An update for the RC10 enthusiasts here

I've been racing my recently rebuilt RC10 at my LHS (tight outdoor off-road course) and doing OK considering my driving skills. I've got a B4 that I race as well and, for the moment at least, I prefer the RC10 on the track. It handles well considering the age of the design.

Chewbacca

09-29-2004, 05:22 PM

Does any one know where I can get ball bearing bellcranks for the RC10?
Hi verybody, I'm about halfway through this thread and love it!!!

I bought the following steering for my RC10T and they are great!! I can only recomend them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5923873884&rd=1

For anyone who is still looking for manuals, this is where I downloaded mine:

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/cathub_offroad.htm

Keep this great thread running....

Chewie.

microrcdude

09-29-2004, 10:22 PM

great finds chewie! Are you using bearings or bushings with the steering?

Chewbacca

09-30-2004, 06:57 AM

great finds chewie! Are you using bearings or bushings with the steering?

Right now I am using the bushings, but luckily that setup uses metric bearrings (8x5x2,5)mm. Those are available for cheap here in Germany. for the best performance you'll also need part # 7306 from the T2 or the GT (same #). I cut a m4 thread into the shafts, I dunno if that is an option for you.

Chewie.

FifthScaleRacer

09-30-2004, 07:14 AM

http://www.detectivetalk.com/rc10.JPG

Chewbacca

10-05-2004, 05:00 PM

Hi everybody,

this is a small teaser. The company (British I think) COMCOM is out of business AFAIK, but made nice upgrades for various rc cars. I did buy something extremely nice off ebay here in Germany. I have no idea if the ever sold in the US.

The conclusion to what I have will follow shortly.
:D

Chewie.

microrcdude

10-05-2004, 07:51 PM

ohhh, i cant wait to see it!

Doomed

10-08-2004, 09:13 AM

Shouldn't tease people, not nice. :)

mikebjork

10-08-2004, 01:39 PM

Hi, I am selling my old RC10 on ebay. It includes a battery, charger, radio, and the car. The chassis is the gold plated aluminim one.

Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5925835700&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
If the link doesn't work, this is the item number 5925835700

RichieRich

10-08-2004, 04:17 PM

FifthScaleRacer - Beautiful buggy!!!!

Chewbacca

10-09-2004, 07:31 PM

Sorry for taking so long, the time for the conclusion is here. :D

These are all carbon fibre parts, very nice indeed. Unfortunatly no carbon rear shock tower for my RC10T....

But the best is still to come.....

Chewie.

Chewbacca

10-09-2004, 07:36 PM

Okay here it is and it is a piece of art if you ask me.

Chewie.

Chewbacca

10-09-2004, 07:38 PM

I guess it isn't possible to upload more than one picture per post.

So here's some more:

Chewbacca

10-09-2004, 07:41 PM

here's the last for now. This is a full carbon fibre tub chassis, not meteal with carbon "look" or anything like that. Oh yeah there' also the CF nose plate, but I left that at my parents' place...

RichieRich

10-10-2004, 01:01 AM

Wow!

Chewbacca

10-16-2004, 06:41 AM

This took me FOREVER to find. Anyone who was racing in the middle eighties knows how popular these 4WD conversions were before the Optima Mid was introduced. I still haven't seen another conversion like this anywhere since I found this one.

Hi Steve,

I would like to know, if the original RC10 4WD conversion kit by MIP is based on the original or on the Stealth (rear) tranny. Or does it have its'
own (rear) tranny alltogether?? Is it opssible for you to scan the instuction manual from the conversion kit and email it to me? That would be great! :)

FifthScaleRacer

10-16-2004, 08:10 AM

Hi Steve,

I would like to know, if the original RC10 4WD conversion kit by MIP is based on the original or on the Stealth (rear) tranny. Or does it have its'
own (rear) tranny alltogether?? Is it opssible for you to scan the instuction manual from the conversion kit and email it to me? That would be great! :)

MIP came out with different versions of their 4x4 kit. The one's I know of are for the original RC10 six gear tranny, and one for MIP's own "pre-stealth" 3 gear tranny. I have the later. I'm sure there might be more though. Here's a pic of the 4x4 kit for the MIP tranny (courtesy of Shodog):
http://www.detectivetalk.com/4x4.jpeg

You can find more info at http://www.tamiyaclub.com

Chewbacca

10-16-2004, 08:29 AM

FifthScaleRacer

10-17-2004, 06:37 AM

Chewbacca, thanks. That car belongs to Shodog.

I believe the MIP 3 gear tranny and the 1st generation Stealth are very similar in design andfunction....with the only major difference being the transmission housing. I don't know if parts are interchangable though. I can take pics if you wish...

FifthScaleRacer

10-18-2004, 05:37 AM

Hi Fifth!

Nice Buggy. Well was the 3 gear mip Tranny comparable to the stealth? I still have an original used 6 gear in my parts box. Never really understood the priciple, and must say it is obvious that the stealth is way superior. Did the MIP 3 gear use a slipper clutch? Does the AE slipper fit?

Thanx for any help, Chewie.

well I was looking at an old RCCA mag today and came across a MIP ad for a 4x4 conversion for the AE Stealth Tranny...so I guess they did make one for the stealth....here is a scan of the ad:

http://www.detectivetalk.com/mip.jpg

RichieRich

10-18-2004, 05:05 PM

Wow, that brings back some memories. I wanted one back then but I think they cost just as much as the kit.

SteveK

10-20-2004, 06:52 AM

BluBamBoo

11-01-2004, 04:18 AM

Anybody know of a buggy body that snugly fits the aluminum tub chassis? I want to use one as an inner-body for my 10T, but I want the sides to fit closely to the tub. I remember some of the bodies hung over pretty far.

ae still has the original bodies for sale and you can purchase some awesome aftermarket bodies from Dahm. The original like the viper fits pretty snugged and Dahm's warrior or champion fits snug. I don't know about the others, but give them a try and report back ;) Here are the links to the companies:

http://www.dahms-intl.com/dah8.html

http://www.teamassociated.com

Hope this helps!

DJ

bob333

11-13-2004, 11:35 PM

does the viper body cover up the front tires?

microrcdude

11-14-2004, 12:19 AM

The viper is a buggy body just like the rest, its not a Dodge. And it doesnt cover up any of the tires.

SteveK

11-14-2004, 04:19 PM

Thanks Blu. I remember some of the bodies left a pretty big gap in the front, where the tub narrows, and I wanted to avoid having to seal something like that up.

microrcdude

11-14-2004, 04:41 PM

Ya. If enough interest, ill make a cover avalable that goes right over the chassis, like a inner body.

bob333

11-21-2004, 04:47 PM

I dont like the stock body at all. it cracks at the front shocktower from fitting it under those stupid shocktowers.

Chewbacca

11-22-2004, 03:33 AM

Ya. If enough interest, ill make a cover avalable that goes right over the chassis, like a inner body.

depending on price, I'd take 2 or 3 of those inner bodies.

Chewie.

JLDirtKicker

11-25-2004, 12:06 AM

Have just spent the last hour reading all of the messages in this thread. Brings back great memories. Have just started trying to pump life into my old gold tub RC10. Will have many questions soon.....

Prelude14WRX

11-26-2004, 06:09 PM

hello all. My uncle gave me an orignal gold tub rc10 and its awesome! Its my snow car and it rocks. I had to restore it...but I restored it with stuff i had lying around so it looks like a beater, but it works awesome. Its running an old school futuba radio, old school hitec reciever, old school hitec servo and futaba mc230cr esc. This car cost me NOTHING to run :D This car rocks :cool:

qwikpony351

11-28-2004, 07:49 PM

[QUOTE=Fred Sambo]i have just rebuilt my old rc10... i'll post pics as soon as i get a camera:(

does anyone else still run the old buggy?

I have 3 complete cars 1 rolling chassie and two parts cars.......I run mine all over the yard,street,and drveway.......I catch hek from my daughters for picking on there cats......I'm a bad bad boy.

RichieRich

11-29-2004, 02:03 AM

Bad like Fred Sambo? :D Isn't it funny this thread lives yet Fred is banned? I wanna get an another rc10 so I can mod it using various aftermarket parts like the A&L trailing arm suspension, graphite chassis and other "period" modifications.

Klaus

11-29-2004, 02:46 PM

Hey guys, quite the thread you have going here. Lots of good info.

Recently, I decided to bust out my old RC car that a buddy of mine gave to me a long time ago and I have been trying to research parts for it. This thread has been a lot of help.

I just ordered about $70 worth of stuff from Tower, and now I see that I can get pretty much a whole kit for that price on Ebay. Go figure.

Anyway, here is my car a few days ago. Right now it is completely disassebled and everything has been cleaned and lubed. Waiting for some new parts to come before I put it back together. I got new tires and wheels too because these ones were too big and threw off the gearing a bit.

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc1.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc2.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc3.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc4.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc5.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc6.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc7.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/rc8.jpg

Can anyone tell me by looking at those pics if I have this "stealth" tranny everyone talks about? Also, I've seen some talk about steering upgrades. By looking at these pics, would a steering upgrade work on my car?

Thanks guys.

RichieRich

11-29-2004, 04:15 PM

It looks like you have a stealth tranny car since it has the slipper clutch. MIP still makes a ball bearing steering rack for the RC10 (p/n 1003). I use one on my team car.

Klaus

11-29-2004, 04:44 PM

Thanks Richie.

Here's the dumb question for the day....... where is the slipper clutch? Is that where you can loosen then nut on the spur gear?

RichieRich

11-29-2004, 06:57 PM

Right, the nut is there to adjust the traction control pads on the slipper clutch. It's mainly used to control the motor's power in slippery conditions.

Klaus

11-29-2004, 07:17 PM

Right...... okay, that's kinda what I thought.

I also thought it was meant to be able to slip slightly like on a harsh landing so the motor wasn't turning the gears while the wheels aren't spinning.

Anyway, cool. I'm gonna clean up my RC10 real good! Got lotsa parts on the way...

JLDirtKicker

11-29-2004, 09:04 PM

Are there any rims that are currently being sold that will fit the old gold tub chassis RC10 buggy. What size rims are these fronts and rears? What tire size? Thanks

Klaus

11-29-2004, 11:18 PM

In this picture: http://phatxj.com/temp/rc2.jpg You can see some of the aftermarket rims I was running on mine.

The tires I have there say "2.2", so if you do a search on Tower for "2.2 wheels" this comes up: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=2.2+wheels&FVPROFIL=++

So..... if my logic is right, the majority of those wheels will work, but don't trust my logic completely :D

RichieRich

11-30-2004, 01:16 PM

No one makes wheels or tires for any of the old aluminum tub RC10s. The original gold tub used 1.6 tires in the rear. Can't remember the front size. The team versions use a 2.1 in front and a 2.0 in the rear. HPI's superstar wheels have those exact measurements and are still made. BUT, currently, there is a limited selection of tires that fit those rims. Right now, only Traxxas has front spike tires (p/n 1771) and rear spike tires (p/n 4750) that fit. I used a set of Proline front ribs I found on ebay and some Duratrax pin spikes in the rear (which have since been discontinued). Check my website link in my profile to see pictures.

Bryce Bhatnagar

12-04-2004, 10:33 PM

First time on this board!!!

I'm 38, I built the original RC 10 Championship edition around 89 or 90 (don't really remember.) It's the gold pan with the six gear tranny.

So, it sat on a shelf for about 10 years, and my 12 year old found it...

Recent upgrades over the last month:

Reedy Spec-19 motor (from www.towerhobbies.com). Kicks butt over my old stock motor.

Stealth transmission and a template to replace my six-gear tranny (two ebay auctions). I drilled new holes with the template, and mounted the tranny right up, no problemo. It delivers much more power than the six gear. Noticible RPM and weight difference.

Novak XRS ESC (I finially removed the old wiper arm components!!!). www.teamnovak.com

RPM Arms. Check out the "Retro Release" they are doing... www.rpmrcproducts.com. The RPM arms are better looking than the white plactic associated arms.

Associated 2.2 wheels on the back (I like split-rims) with Losi spikes. I tried the Dirt Hawg tires on all four wheels, but went back to the buggy sized tires. The Dirt Hawgs made it ride too high and flip over, also acceleration was crummy.

Alluminum instead of steel screws everywhere.

RESULT:

Pardon my french, but it freakin rocks!!! I can jump more than 12 feet with ease, in fact with all the power it's hard to keep it on my backyard oval. I have a B3, and it's been more fun modifying this old car to "rock" than buying a b4. Of course, upgrading the old car costs more.

It's kind of like a scavenger hunt... A part from ebay, some left over parts at rcboyz.com, etc. Really fun finding stuff. GREAT RESULT.

GOLD PAN FOREVER!!!

microrcdude

12-04-2004, 11:39 PM

The RC10 makes a great basher/reso car. I personally wanna build one when i get time(Which i never have)

Budman_222

12-05-2004, 12:39 AM

Bryce, If you want to make that buggy handle like a million bucks, put a set of truck a arms and dog bones (or cvd's) in it. It's light and agile like a buggy but it doesn't flip over all the time. That's what I did to this one.

SteveK

12-05-2004, 01:41 AM

Got a truck and/or buggy handy to compare the widths? Associated used modified 10T a-arms on the cars that won the 1991 Worlds in Detroit, and I was curious exactly how wide the car ended up, as I am to see how yours ended up.

RPM made/makes a kit to convert the front end to a 10T bulkhead and longer arms that keep the same track, and there was a kit with longer rear arms, but you have to cut and drill the chassis to put the mounts further in-board (The rear was already at the max width).

Budman_222

12-05-2004, 02:32 AM

Ran downstairs and checked it out for you. First let me say the buggy has a flat fiberglass chassis so it might be a little wider in the front. All the arms on both vehicles are rc10t. The front measurments are from the base of the thread on the front axels. The buggy measures 11 1/4". The rc10t is 10 1/2". On the back I measured from the drive pins. The buggy is 9 5/8". The truck is 9 3/4". Kind of hard to tell what the gold chassis with the long arms would measure. On this fiberglass chassis it looks like the front a arm mounts are spaced farther apart than they are on the t. I'm not positive but I think the black rc10t chassis and the gold tub chassis are the same except for the color. If they are the measurements for the buggy should be close to the same as the t measures. The buggy sure handles good with the longer a arms.

Klaus

12-05-2004, 11:27 PM

jturkey69

12-11-2004, 08:22 AM

wow, well i didnt read the whole 19 page thread, but i recently pulled mine out after a looong hiatus, and have put a crowd pleazer body , and proline wheels, 17x2 speed gem pro, and new spur and pinion....now to the ?'s
what arms can i use that budman has, or something like this, and also how bout that old stealth tranny...where can i get one?
i will post some pics on sunday hopefully

thanks all...turkey

Budman_222

12-11-2004, 08:51 PM

The arms, axles, hubs, cvd's, etc on mine are from a gt. The trans is from a t3. Don't use the t3 tranny if you can avoid it. It mounts on the chassis different. A real pain in the but. If you can find the original stealth trans or one out of a rc10t you can put it right in. Being wider makes the buggy handle better. Might be illeagal to race it, I don't know.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5940925394&rd=1

a lot of the tranny stuff

Klaus

12-12-2004, 03:48 AM

Okay guys, finally got 'er done tonight, tell me what you think.

This was the first body I've ever painted, and I had a few issues with it, but mainly trimming it to fit was a major PITA. It was almost as if the body wasn't meant for the car.... but I guess it was. Regardless, I think it turned out okay.

Before and after pic: http://phatxj.com/temp/RC10_001.jpg

http://phatxj.com/temp/RC10_002sm.jpg

Full size of above image: http://phatxj.com/temp/RC10_002.jpg

microrcdude

12-12-2004, 05:32 PM

Nice dude! Did you use pactra paint?

Klaus

12-12-2004, 10:36 PM

Thanks man!

Pactra paint? I don't think so, considering I've never heard of that :D I used some sort of "plasticote" or something from Wallmart.... probable not the best, but it seemed to work pretty good.

jturkey69

12-13-2004, 09:21 AM

budman...thanks for the tip!! i will be very busy this winter with many projects

mfaccone

12-28-2004, 02:16 AM

I am looking for an original RC10 SE.. early 90s? first or second year they came out with the stealth tranny. Gold bucket chassis.
I used to have a team car of that era... and would like to get my hands on another one.
Anyone out there have one they would like to sell... please let me know.
Electronics included or not.
m_faccone@hotmail.com

gillbot

12-28-2004, 07:52 PM

Anyone know what parts are interchangeable between all the lines of RC10? I got an original RC10 on the way and i'm sure i'll wanna upgrade something! ;) The original parts are pretty hard to find, not to mention expensive.

mccrash59

12-31-2004, 08:22 PM

This is my self queen!!! Awarded last year as "car of the month" in da (can´t remember :o ) issue.
I got it NIB in my local hobby shop for just 60$ Of course is never run...
Hope you like guys!!!

http://img42.exs.cx/img42/2107/vintageasso6li.jpg

mfaccone

01-01-2005, 06:05 AM

Nice.. thats what I am looking for too.

gillbot

01-01-2005, 10:18 AM

Mine is here:
http://cofba.org/users/gillbot/RCcar/

Not sure if I wanna rebuild it or trade it off for something else since I can't find parts.

jlepinske

01-13-2005, 12:37 AM

Hey fellas,

I just bought an original gold tub rc-10 on EBAY and I was looking to replace the beat up body thats on it with a new one sporting an era-appropriate paint scheme. I was going to order the VIPER body, and this wing which I believe are both original equipment on the RC-10:

body- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2708&P=7
wing- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2732&P=0

and i wanted to find some more photos of the car on the original box as a guide in duplicating this paint scheme, which I always thought of as the most beautiful buggy paint job ever:

http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=477

Also, where can I get the correct Team Associated decals?

Thanks in advance, I have been away from the hobby for at least 10 years, and I feel more than a little disoriented. My other cars are a Losi junior-t and a RC-10LSS Graphite, both in VERY NEARLY brand new condition. I went to sell them on ebay and ended up buying an original RC-10 instead!!

J-

jturkey69

01-15-2005, 01:16 PM

mccrash and gillbot...why are both of you front suspension arms straight where as mine is bent? are those the factory peices or the wide replacements?....i have some nip wide replacements but they are black instead of white....i still need to get a different tranny...whenever that happens im gonna toss that 6 gear

gillbot

01-15-2005, 04:24 PM

mccrash59

01-18-2005, 06:07 PM

Yepp, those arms came in the second generation named World Champ Ed. I think. Was an upgrade as the multi-position front damper stay.

gillbot

01-18-2005, 09:55 PM

whenever that happens im gonna toss that 6 gear
wanna sell me that 6 gear?

I need at least 1/2 the case, idlers and screws and the input to finish mine

Budman_222

01-19-2005, 01:21 PM

wanna sell me that 6 gear?

I need at least 1/2 the case, idlers and screws and the input to finish mine

This is not mine. I just ran across it and remembered this thread.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5950257933&rd=1

gillbot

01-19-2005, 05:59 PM

thanks, it was already on my watch list though! ;)

Wife is gonna kill me if I buy any more RC10 parts. O-well, she'll live! :D

jturkey69

01-20-2005, 07:52 PM

sure, i have that and you can also have the original 32 pitch spur and pinion, i need to get a different tranny like a stealth or a b3 or b4

e-mail is jturkey69@yahoo.com
im located in Wisconsin
Jon

gillbot

01-20-2005, 08:47 PM

sent email!

jturkey69

01-23-2005, 01:40 PM

gillbot, tranny is all out and ready to be shipped,let me know if ou want it, the original spur and pinion is mia though, but everything else is there and in perfect working order
lmk
Jon

gillbot

01-23-2005, 04:17 PM

emailing you now

Mannekenpis

01-26-2005, 01:59 PM

jlepinske

01-29-2005, 11:17 AM

microrcdude

01-30-2005, 09:58 PM

Just finished "refreshing" my old RC10.

Does anyone can tell me where could I still find those original white ball cup ?

Thank you,

Jym.

http://membres.lycos.fr/bogarfield/photos/RC10%20(original%20body).jpg
It looks like you just built that sucker. Has it been in a box all these years? As for the while ball cups, i think Losi mkes some.

hootienchyna

01-31-2005, 09:49 AM

i'll post an ebay seller that lives around the blockl from me that sells tons of original rc10 white nylon parts and basically everything else for them, i scooped up a brand new complete wide arm kit for the front end from him for mine.

i'll post it when i get home from work later today

LEADFOOT

01-31-2005, 11:44 AM

hey guys, great lookin cars!

My childhood friend sent me all of this cars we used to race together...I have long since sold mine. Anyway, he sent 2 RC10's and 2 RC12L's. I put one of the RC10's together for my boy and I still have some work to do on the other. My daughter also has a RC10 of sorts. It started out as a graphite edition, but I have done some major mods to it. I'll post pics later.

hootienchyna

01-31-2005, 06:50 PM

ok if you look up asashaw27 on ebay he has lots of original parts, if he doesnt have any posted just email him to see what he has

LEADFOOT

01-31-2005, 09:09 PM

here are some pics. First, the old car. I used all of the old electronics, except for the batteries :D Even the old Twister stock motor is in there.

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/zachscar-resized.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/zachscar2-resized.jpg

You can barely see one of the mods I did on the bulkhead here. I drilled another hole for the ball stud in the bulkhead further inboard. It is just under the wing mount tube.

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/zachscar3-1.jpg

:D

LEADFOOT

01-31-2005, 09:25 PM

here are some pics of our other buggy. Like I said, it started out life as a graphite edition with the long front shocks.

Now...

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/img_0099.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/img_0100.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/img_0101.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~blangness/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/img_0102.jpg

The suspension pieces are all B3 graphite. The rear bulkhead, front and rear shock towers, and rear arm mounts are all GT pieces. I also have Trinity B4 aluminum rear hubs and a Racer's edge front aluminum bulkhead installed. Also I use the Losi wing mounts attached to the rear shock tower to get around using piano wire as well as Losi stub axles and true-spin washers. It has Lunsford titanium all around.

The gold motor mount is still there to give people an idea of the heritage.;)

I know, I know...you're asking yourself---"why?"

...I had the parts and wanted to do something different! :cool:

Mannekenpis

02-01-2005, 03:57 PM

Mannekenpis,

Your paint job looks great! Can you post a couple more angles? That is the paint scheme I'm trying to replicate, and I couldn't find any more photos than the original box art. I'd also love to hear where I can find new white ballcups, the closest thing I can find is http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK094&P=7 Although these are threaded for 2-56 rod, and I believe the originals are 4-40. Why don't any manufacturers make white nylan parts anymore? they were dyable if you're into that (trashes your car's value) and it was easy to tell if they were dirty. Its easy to keep white nylon parts surgically clean. should you need to, that is.

My appologise for my late answer. I thank you jlepinske and microrcdude. I will take some better shots of the car with the wing soon since during the painting I ran out of paint. I started an other body project since I did not get the paint (got some now :D ). For the trimscheme of the RC10, I tried to follow the box design. I am not vey satisfied at all with the orange, way too dark for me. If I where you, I would take a yellow base, my too dark orange eats that nice pink stripe. New B2-B3 body finished, I am going to paint my CAT 3000 and the "icing on the cake" the NIB RC10T I won on eBAY. I feel back like a kid... I guess I am still one ! ;)

Nice job on the carbon fiber chassis LEADFOOT !! Very nice.

http://membres.lycos.fr/bogarfield/photos/RC10B2-B3.jpg

jlepinske

02-01-2005, 04:13 PM

I just picked up this unused gold tub chassis on ebay for $17 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5952404373

Anyone have any idea where I can get a gold skidplate for the nose? the blue one is cheezy. Now I have a runner chassis and a shelf queen chassis! Also, does the anti-sway bar increase my buggy's value? why did associated stop using it?

gillbot

02-01-2005, 04:36 PM

jlepinske

02-02-2005, 09:05 AM

I had that gold tub in my watch list, it went past what I wanted to pay.

I have a gold used nose somewhere if you are interested along with a pair of used gold tubs and many other parts.

I'd be interested in trades if you have any spares.

Gillbot,

I only have one complete rc-10, and the only extra parts are the mechanical speed controller parts (I chose to stick with the vintage novak-4 ESC w/futaba-g connectors, seems just as typical of the time period) and a pair of #6972 ribbed front tires that dont fit my original 3-slot rims. I bought them thinking they matched the original part # but apparently that was a list for the team kit or something with dish wheels. The complete chassis I bought was slightly beat up, but saw very very little use over its lifetime. still had original brushes in the original stock motor! the commutator is in great shape and shows very little wear. And the wiring harness for the ESC was never properly completed, I think the guy got cornfused, frustrated, and then put it all in a closet. Original rear tires show very little wear, but I don't recognize the pin spikes up front. And the sway bar assembly is complete and unworn. I'm in the process of paining up a viper body for it, then later a correct protech body like the original. now i have a brand new chassis on the way so I can run the other without guilt, but I would be very interested in one of your orange front skidplates if you have one in good condition.

gillbot

02-02-2005, 03:53 PM

Yeah, I can dig one out if you are interested, I'm sure we could work a deal. Shoot me a PM or email gillbot@hotmail.com

Do the pin spikes look like leadfoots above pics? If so, those are schumacher CAT tires. I just put a set on my old wheels in place of the dished/ribbed combo.

jlepinske

02-03-2005, 12:22 AM

Do the pin spikes look like leadfoots above pics? If so, those are schumacher CAT tires. I just put a set on my old wheels in place of the dished/ribbed combo.

Gillbot, here is a pic from another thread that has the same front tires as mine. I sure would like to know what the original tires for my kit are. I think i have an early kit but it has sway bars, wingnuts on the rears, and 2 holes at the top of the front shock tower.

jlepinske

02-03-2005, 12:52 AM

forgot the pic here it is.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3288&stc=1

LEADFOOT

02-03-2005, 11:49 AM

that's a nice car!

I had several sets of those tires! They rocked, but didn't fair too well on the street :(

Mannekenpis

02-03-2005, 03:08 PM

forgot the pic here it is.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3288&stc=1

I really love RC10 chassis... what's the brand of those front tires ? I'd love to find some for mine.

Jym.

jlepinske

02-03-2005, 03:17 PM

that's a nice car!

I had several sets of those tires! They rocked, but didn't fair too well on the street :(

Leadfoot,

thats not a pic of my car, I haven't shot any of it yet. that pic was posted in another thread. mine is pretty much identical to that one, without the chrome wheels, I have nicely dyed orange wheels. I would like to get hold of a set of white wheels eventually, and fresh tires. I don't even know how to measure the wheel size, is it the bead depth? outer edge of rim? I think they might be 1.9" Mine also has the sway bars front and rear, and wing nuts on the rear wheels, and the spring collars on the shocks arent stripped like usually happens with a lot of use. I have the 6 gear tranny, and was wondering if there is a bearing conversion for the felt washers (which i squirted with liquid teflon) on the tranny output shafts. Anyone?

LEADFOOT

02-04-2005, 05:56 AM

I'm not sure about that one. I think those felt washers were intented to keep dirt out, not provide any load support. You may be able to find some somewhere, though. Look up avid or boca bearings.

gillbot

02-04-2005, 03:52 PM

yeah, those felts are a pain. The "cover" for them on mine keeps popping out.

jlepinske

02-04-2005, 04:58 PM

yeah, those felts are a pain. The "cover" for them on mine keeps popping out.

My tranny has full ball bearings and because of the slight wobble of the output shafts, I thought bearings there might be better. I soaked mine with CRC electronics spray, then squeezed them out between paper towels till they were clean, then soaked them with liquid teflon. They seem to be pretty smooth, but I wondered where all the parasitic drag comes from, it should spin free a bit when I spin the spur gear if theres no motor attached and the dogbones are out, but its s