Inferno mp 7.5 Sport

[Ahlard]

Hello !
My baby is an mp 7.5 Sport and im thinking of buying som upgrades what should i start with ?
:confused:

[b3guyRC10]

hey nice buggy. its a great buggy but i heard that the engine is crap because it runs VERY hot. Is it true???

[Ahlard]

Yes thats true.
The engine runs very hot if you lean it out to get som power.
but besides that it runs fine.

[SuperGogeta]

will this fit in the sports sway bar (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVD33)
it is for the standard one

[T/Losi]

What does the engine do when it runs to hot?
Have you had any other problems with yours?
How loud is it compared to a 1/10 scale?

[xxxnt_legend]

How strong are these kits?

[Markus]

We have both regular mp7.5 and the sports edition.

Main differences besides the motor that we see:

- diffs
- main spurgear
- front driveshafts
- shocks.

The motor itself is quite good for a beginner and i'd recommend leaving it on as a learners motor.

what changes would i suggest? Front and rear braces from fioroni, Shocks from the regular mp7.5, and the better drive-shafts.

The diffs/motor and spurgear i'd use till they give up, then replace them for the regulars.


Have fun it's a great buggy!

[seca95]

how are the diffs different?

[Markus]

Originally posted by seca95
how are the diffs different?

The only difference we can see is that each diff only has 2 planet gears instead of 4. Don't notice any difference in handling.

BTW: If you use the sports shocks, (as we are till they go bad) use a heavier oil then what you would use with the regular MP 7.5 shocks. Also use the same oil for front and back as the the piston holes in the back are bigger.

We are very happy with 1000 grade silicon oil in the shocks.

On either buggy i'd recommend an upgradee to the ball-bearing servo-saver of the kanai.

[seca95]

can you put 4 gears in the diff or do you have to get a new housing? will the 2 gear diff take the power of a nicer sport engine?
thanks

[Markus]

Originally posted by seca95
can you put 4 gears in the diff or do you have to get a new housing? will the 2 gear diff take the power of a nicer sport engine?
thanks

Yes and Yes. We are running the sports with an R&B 5 port engine (which is loads more powerfull then the pull-start GS.21), and activly participating in events. My son will bew racing the sports in rodgau this weekend (Hessen-Cup).

The diffs are still original 2 planet. We did buy additional planet gear kits, but haven't installed them yet as we wanted to just use up the sports stuff first. Car has held up just as good as a regular... Except that we burned up the plastic spur...


All in all an exellent beginners buggy.

[Meridian]

Can you recommend some better turn buckles and the specific part number and manufacturer. And also the part numbers for better gear diffs and spur gears. Thanks

[the_swed]

Does any1 have some pics on the mp7.5 sport?

[Markus]

Pictures of the 7.5 sports? Well only on the website of kyosho at http://www.kyosho.com


In the mean time I'm changing my recommendation and telling people not to get the sports unless the price is a major issue. Get the regular 7.5.

My son has now raced the sports version in 4 races and we now know what all is different.

1) Chassis is only 2.5 mm thick instead of the 3 mm of regular, and bends easy on large jumps.

2) Sports shocks not up to competion levels. After installing the regular shocks. WOW what a difference. But Regular shocks lay you back over app. 150 dollars.

3) Drive Bevel gears ar of hardend aluminum instead of steel and strip easy.

Basicaly you'll need to sink app. another 200 to 300 dollars to get the car up to the level of the regular 7.5 (for competition) It's cheaper to get the regular MP 7.5

but if you are only bashing, then the Sports is great.

So some part numbers of what needs upgrading:

IF-105 Main drive gear

2 x If-106 and IF-21 Drive and bevel gears for front or rear diffs.

IF-140 Main Chassis plate.

IFW-30 and IFW-31 front and rear shocks.

IFW-112 Front Torque-Rod set.

IF-107 and IF-108 Engine Mounts

IFW-103 Rear stabalizer

IFW-108 and IFW-109 Turnbuckles

Hope that helps.

[the_swed]

On kyoshos homepage you will find 3 tiny pictures on the sport
I want to se more!!

[Markus]

There must be thousands of pics of the MP 7.5 on the net. The Sports version looks just the same as the regular on pics, except that the aluminum parts are blue instead of gold.

Here is a pic of My sons buggy during the quarter finals in Oberhausen (former Worldchampion Daniel Reckward won the event) on Sunday. My Sons is the green orange buggy with green spoiler.


http://www.reckward.de/2002-OffRoad/OB_104.jpg

It looks just like any other MP 7.5

[the_swed]

What is the weakest point in the mp 7.5 sports, how much does it cost to fix?

[Markus]

I don't know us prices so app. euro prices

main spur gear: app 45 Euro
Shocks : app 150 euro

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Originally posted by the_swed
What is the weakest point in the mp 7.5 sports, how much does it cost to fix?

<marquee>wow, this is the first time ive seen the marquee finction used.......coool man!,</marquee>

[camillerim]

hey,
how quick does the sport go with the rtr version engine?
ive heard that it runs very hot. is that a big problem for the buggy? and also ive heard that the chassis is only 2.5 mm?? does it bend easy when u fly off jumps?
thanx

[Meridian]

The included 21 Kyosho makes pretty good power. If you are racing, it may not be competitive, but for me just bashing it is pretty good. It does run hot, but starts and idles well. I just let it cool between tanks. I don't know how fast the car is though. I haven't done big jumps so I can't say about the chassis.

[camillerim]

would u say that the ARR gs storm would be a better buy for the money>?
has any one in this thread driven one? thanx in advance

[Meridian]

maybe someone here will know:

http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm81

[mouses]

Originally posted by camillerim
hey,
how quick does the sport go with the rtr version engine?
ive heard that it runs very hot. is that a big problem for the buggy? and also ive heard that the chassis is only 2.5 mm?? does it bend easy when u fly off jumps?
thanx

I have found the engine gets very hot. simply let it cool between runs.

The speed of the car can be greatly improved by either dismanteling the pipe and cutting away the majority of the centre baffle. or buying a racing pipe. I have done both and had very simaler results the speed increase is very noticable.

I have found the best performance is acheived at two turns out on the main needle.

[camillerim]

what buggy is the best for bashing?
wat do u guys think. would u say the 7.5 sport or the Ofna's or wat?

[NitroRookie]

I've read many posts and most of the peeps or suggesting either a Hyper 7 Pro or 9.5 Pro over the 7.5 sport if you want to race competively.

[jimmy]

For blashing, I perfer MP 7.5 kanai 2! But for cost effective, Sports is the best one. You can get it at www.rcsquare.com for US3XX only!

[=[flame]=]

I have a sport too. It rulz for bashing. Iv had mine for nealy a year now. The engine is more powerful then i thought it would be.
I can send some pics if anyone wants to see. But i dont have then right now.

Does anyone recoment some really good hop-ups to make this car very durable? I already have sway bars and a front chassis brace. Iv been thinking of better turnbukles and new tires (i need new ones :) )

[jimmy]

You can go to ebay and search some kanai 2 parts as upgrade. Personally I think the car is very durable but if you want to improve the handling, I recommand you to upgrade your damper to kania 2's damper. And you can find some brand new tires at ebay too!

[NoleC5]

Can anyone suggest a website where it is easy to buy some of the hop ups that have been discussed on this thread? I'm not to excited about searching ebay.

Thanks

[=[flame]=]

towerhobbies.com

ace-hobbies.com


just make up a word and end it with "hobbies" :D :)

[Justin Phillips]

You can not beat the prices on ebay though. Just do a search for kanai. I have been buying parts from a guy who's username is ben88 . The pricing you can get for brand new parts on ebay is about 30-50% less then what you are going to pay at Tower and Ace. I have now almost fully converted my Sport to a Kanai II.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Justin Phillips
You can not beat the prices on ebay though. Just do a search for kanai. I have been buying parts from a guy who's username is ben88 . The pricing you can get for brand new parts on ebay is about 30-50% less then what you are going to pay at Tower and Ace. I have now almost fully converted my Sport to a Kanai II.

Thanks Justin, I will have to give this a try. So any of the parts that come up on a "Kanai" search will work with the sport? Do you have any suggestions as to the best order to do some of the hop ups?

[Justin Phillips]

The first think I would do is purchase the Kanai 2 manual. I would the updgrade the diffs. Normal Kanai comes with two TCD diffs and one normal diff. I would purchase on TCD and put it up front. Take apart the diffs that come with the sport and you will notice they are a little different. Use the part numbers that Markus posed earlier and go to tower hobbies and you will see the parts to need to bring the diff's up to speed. Replace the bevel gears and Super gear as Kyosho calls it part # IF105. I would then upgrade the shocks after that and then all chassis and shock mounts. Let me know if you have any more questions.

[=[flame]=]

Have u guys seen the new sports rtr?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEFJ3**&P=7

What do u guys think. it does not look to bad. thinker chassis then normal sport. and dual disk brakes. Do dual disk brakes really make such a big difference?

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Justin Phillips
The first think I would do is purchase the Kanai 2 manual. I would the updgrade the diffs. Normal Kanai comes with two TCD diffs and one normal diff. I would purchase on TCD and put it up front. Take apart the diffs that come with the sport and you will notice they are a little different. Use the part numbers that Markus posed earlier and go to tower hobbies and you will see the parts to need to bring the diff's up to speed. Replace the bevel gears and Super gear as Kyosho calls it part # IF105. I would then upgrade the shocks after that and then all chassis and shock mounts. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Justin, would you mind shooting me a quick e mail, I might have a few more questions for you.....my e mail address is nolec5@yahoo.com.

Thanks for the info

[tjbell88]

i am looking at the sports money will be a MAJOR factor but is it more durable then the ofna lx pro

i think i will get the RTR sport my LHS has them for 449.89$ i think it is fair and they will also carry parts!

but if i break some thing i would just upgrade to a kiani 2 after i get another job i will prolly make it a full kiani with a picco 21 comp :)

[txt-30]

How fast is it? I'm use to t-maxx's & mad forces:) . I was thinking of getting the RTR version would you say it as fast as a 2.5 maxx stock? Do these buggys wheelie? I love the to do the long wheelies also. Thanks to all that can help out:)

[MikeWz]

I'm thinking about getting the Sports RTR. Does anybody have any experience with it? When I upgrade it I'm going to upgrade it to full Hardcore racing in Blue. And than what ever HCR doesn't have will be kanai. I'm also going to get Fioroni Torsen Traction diffs. What do you guys think?

[txt-30]

Come on guys someone must have one?????:rolleyes:

[MikeWz]

Heh, looks like they've ignored us! :rolleyes:

[flamaxx]

Ok, went ahead a bought the new 7.5 Sports RTR. Here's my first observations. The new Sports RTR DOSEN'T come with the front or rear sway bars, front torque brace, metal spur gear, and no foam in the tires which I found odd.
I've run 5 tanks through it but have yet to take it out on the track (TOO Much Rain). I've gone ahead a purchased the items listed above. I'll hopefully get a chance to run it this week. I'll get back to everyone as soon as I can hit the track.:rolleyes:

[CoastalRob]

I was quite impressed with the handling of my new 7.5 Sports RTR. Even with the stock servos it handled great. Most of the guys at the local track run GS Storms and a few Kyosho's. Looks the Kyosho's and the Mugens will soon be the buggies of choice. I wasn't too impressed with the power of the engine but then again I only have about 7 tanks through it. I'll keep everyone posted as I break it it in and do Kanni 2 upgrades.:)

[androxy]

Hi

I am totally new to rc and hopefuly my sports should be arriving soon ( 5 days hopefully)

I mainly bash but i wil be racing at my local trax maybe 1 time per month.

Anyway i was wondering if you guyz could tell me what hopups i should get for my sports ( Not Engine i am only 14 and i live in Australia so all rc stuff is $$$$). I have herad that i should upgrade surspension, tuned pipe ect.


What do u guyz think

Thanx in advance

ANdy:D :p

[=[flame]=]

well.... so far my pipe has been fine. but upgrading it depends on if u have the rtr sport or old sport.
I deffiently reconment to get the kanai shocks. I put them on my sports and it made a hell of a difference.

[CoastalRob]

Andy, if you bought the new 7.5 RTR Sports here's what I would recommend;
Front torque brace bar (if not, you risk bending the front of your new buggie), a new steel spur gear (the plastic one will not last long), sway bars, Kani 2 shocks, tuned pipe, and CrimeFighter Tires (if your racing).

[androxy]

Thanks Flame and Costal Rob


My car is not RTR it is just the sports kit.

Thanx alot:D

[uDi_MP75]

Just to brush things up -
Kanai shocks are the exact same as regular 7.5 shocks, except the Kanai kit gives them different springs (Blue, medium). And they work and hold up fairly well.

The Kanai2 shocks on the other hand are different, and I have heard of a fair few issues with them, so i'd stay away from them.

Slowly upgrading your Sports to a Kanai2 is dumb I reckon.

My suggestion to anyone looking to upgrade, is to slowly work your way up to regular 7.5 specs (hardened diff gears in each diff, hardened steel spur, 2 more bevels+washers and a shaft for each diff, new shocks, proper engine mounts, etc) and then cut the Kyosho buying. Flick your money to the aftermarket department - the fact is you can do a better job of hopping up for cheaper in most cases (metals for example - you can get a really nice set of aftermarket towers/braces etc for cheaper than Kanai2 parts, and are usually stronger/thicker and milled)

That's what i'd suggest. A few Kanai parts would be smart but definately not all/many imo - perhaps all metal radio tray posts, front torquerod if you can get it cheap (once again, aftermarket is much better)

[uDi_MP75]

Reading through the thread again - what i'm saying is, unless you just want to say 'I've got a Kanai2' (who cares?!) don't bother slowly upgrading to Kanai2 specs.

Only pick the parts you need for a specific purpose. If something breaks, upgrade for sure - or if you need better handling, investigate how much better handling your car will actually be, chances are the real life differences made by many parts will be barely noticeable to the average joe-rc'er.

For example, on my regular 7.5, I might one day get a pair of Kanai aluminium wingmount posts. The reason behind it is, my screws back out of the plastic posts slowly after many upside down crash landings (which work just as well otherwise) and metal would allow me to threadlock the screws in.

Also check for another way around the problem - I could either use some silicone or something else as an alternative to threadlock, or simply check the screws every week to avoid losing them and other parts... etc etc. Just an example

[MikeWz]

After market is definatly the way to go, I don't want to turn mine into a kanai, I want to make it better than a kanai :D
fioroni makes a whole bunch of parts for the car (torsen diffs, traction diffs, clutches, shock towers etc..), as does fiber lyte and hardcore racing. Those are the companies I've been looking at, however HCR parts are expesnive because they are titanium.

[smoke1]

ive got about 10 tanks through my RTR and this engine is a turd!! the only time it has decent power is when i lean it out and its running 275 degrees! is anyone else having this problem? i really think that 275 is a bit too hot.

[NoleC5]

Okay, well the Inferno Sport comes with a horrible motor. I have not read one good thing about it. And now I know why. The thing runs hotter than anything and has little to know power. So I've decided to upgrade.

Now, I know I will need to buy motor mounts but I'm not sure what else. Can anyone provide any assistance?

[=[flame]=]

hey

im also changing the moter in my sport. the old motor wasnt that bad, it did run really hot though. but i got good power from it.
Anyway. what u need is:

-Engine mounts

-Flywheel nut. (But thats only if you are getting a engine with sg shaft on it)

-manifold (enless the engine u get has one with it)

-probably a glow plug

thats the main things but there might be other things, that a depends on which engine your getting.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by =[flame]=
hey

im also changing the moter in my sport. the old motor wasnt that bad, it did run really hot though. but i got good power from it.
Anyway. what u need is:

-Engine mounts

-Flywheel nut. (But thats only if you are getting a engine with sg shaft on it)

-manifold (enless the engine u get has one with it)

-probably a glow plug

thats the main things but there might be other things, that a depends on which engine your getting.

Did you have any problems with excessive fuel leakage from the motor? I'm using a starter box and everytime I start it, fuel gets spewed all over the wheel of the starter box.

Anyway, I'm thinking of either the RB WS7II or the OS RB (I think thats right). I'm still new to all of this so I'm not sure if these motors have any of the things you talked about above.

All I know is that I'm ready to get the piece o garbage motor out of my car!!

[=[flame]=]

what you will need for both the eninge is a flywheel nut since the gs21r engine has a threaded shaft and both these engines have sg shafts.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU233&P=M

Im not sure about a tuned pipe. I have just ordered a ofna hyper 21 8 port engine and for now im keeping the tuned pipe i have. (But i have the arr sport and not the rtr, dont know what u have).

I dont think these engines come with a manifold so thats one thing you may need.

you should be able to put the old flywheel, clutch, ect....... onto the new engine. except for the flywheel nut. but its only like $3

and then engine mounts and i think you should be ok.

My old engine on my sport was fine, run well, always started, never leeked fuel. It was perfect until i got an air leak and the engine burned itself out. :rolleyes:

[uDi_MP75]

Nole-
I have seen plenty of guys using that GS21/GS21R in various Kyosho cars, and most of the engines have had long and useful lifetimes.... Just because someone says an engine is junk you don't have to give it the flick. :rolleyes: Chances are, THEY don't know how to tune, or perhaps are simply used to much more power.

I do know that the GS21 line run hot by nature, so to get the correct power out of them you do need to run hotter than usual "reccomended" temps. That's just the way it is.

If you are new to the hobby a little, I suggest you try to live with that GS21 (or GX21 in the rtr) for a while, and really learn to tune it and have it running smooth in various conditions. Just so when you do drop the dollars for an S7 or RZ, you know how to take care of it.

I think flamez summed up what you need to get goin with a different motor anyway so ill leave that.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by uDi_MP75
Nole-
I have seen plenty of guys using that GS21/GS21R in various Kyosho cars, and most of the engines have had long and useful lifetimes.... Just because someone says an engine is junk you don't have to give it the flick. :rolleyes: Chances are, THEY don't know how to tune, or perhaps are simply used to much more power.

I do know that the GS21 line run hot by nature, so to get the correct power out of them you do need to run hotter than usual "reccomended" temps. That's just the way it is.

If you are new to the hobby a little, I suggest you try to live with that GS21 (or GX21 in the rtr) for a while, and really learn to tune it and have it running smooth in various conditions. Just so when you do drop the dollars for an S7 or RZ, you know how to take care of it.

I think flamez summed up what you need to get goin with a different motor anyway so ill leave that.

Thank you for the info. Do you know if anyone you know running these motors have had any issues with excessive fule leakage? I've already sent the motor back once to have them fix it, but they told me nothing is wrong. Everytime I run it, the whole car and bottom of the air filter get soaked with fuel. Because of this, it is making it harder and harder to start the car with a starter box b/c the fule gets on the flywheel and won't catch on the starter box. I just don't know what else to try with this thing.....

[=[flame]=]

nole

when you finish runing the engine do you use after run oil or burn all the fuel that is in the tank and fuel tubes..... If not that might be why you are having problems starting it.

For the fuel leekage. Try taking off your flywheel and check if all the shims are there, (behide the flywheel there should be a grey thick round thingy and two shims behide that). check the caburator as well and check if the o-ring is there and that it is not damaged.

gl

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by =[flame]=
nole

when you finish runing the engine do you use after run oil or burn all the fuel that is in the tank and fuel tubes..... If not that might be why you are having problems starting it.

For the fuel leekage. Try taking off your flywheel and check if all the shims are there, (behide the flywheel there should be a grey thick round thingy and two shims behide that). check the caburator as well and check if the o-ring is there and that it is not damaged.

gl

I do use after run oil every time I done using the car, but I didn't know about burning all the fule that is left in the tank and tubes. Do you mean anything special when you say "burn" or does this just mean running the car until it runs out of fuel??

Thanks again!:cool:

[=[flame]=]

just run the engine until it completely runs out of fuel

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah, and after running the car out of fuel, bring it back onto the box and try to start it a few times until it won't start anymore - that will run it totally dry.

As for the leaks, I guess that's a leaky front bearing problem. It's not uncommon, but your case sounds a bit excessive.... Like flame said, check all your flywheel shims etc and carb, but most likely its just that bearings fault. I guess you could look for a sealed boca bearing of the same size or something? but I dont know.

[NoleC5]

I actually tried taking a closer look at it last night and it looks like most of the fuel that has leaked out has collected on teh carb itself. I was going to take the motor off and take the carb off to inspect it, hoping to seal it up a bit, but one of my motor mount screws are stripped!!!! Got a dremel from a freind today, will see if I can get it out tonight!

[NoleC5]

Okay, well I got sick of the GS motor that comes with the sport kit and bought an RB WS 7 II and a Kanai Motor Mount kit off of ebay. Am I nuts for putting this stong of a motor on the Sport? I'm hoping to start the break in process tonight after work!!

[=[flame]=]

itll be fine (i hope)

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by =[flame]=
itll be fine (i hope)

Well, so far, everything is running good. But I will say that I have removed all three trannies and replaced the factory grease with oil (5000, 7000, and 3000). I also added the steel spur gear. The RB WS7II is ungodly, so far at least!

New Question: Is there anyway to get more turning radious out of the Inferno Sport? I was wondering if adding Kanai nuckles would make a difference or any other options?

Thanks

[nskn]

What have you guys done with your stock RTR shocks?

My car bottoms out (sounds nasty when the chassie plate hits the ground!) in larger jumps. I've tried to change to 50wt shock oil and somewhat stiffer springs but it's not that much better.

Any good tips?

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by nskn
What have you guys done with your stock RTR shocks?

My car bottoms out (sounds nasty when the chassie plate hits the ground!) in larger jumps. I've tried to change to 50wt shock oil and somewhat stiffer springs but it's not that much better.

Any good tips?

Well, I thought the stock shocks sucked so I bought the kanai shocks. But I'm still having the same problems in the front. It doesn't want to spring back up. I push down on the nose of the car and it just stays down? What up with that?

[Information Man]

The problem may be with the diaphrams not springing back to there normal position when the shock is pressed.

try this litttle tip

1.empty and clean a shock

2.refill it with you normal oil ( I use 40 front 45 rear )

3.when you put the diaphram back on include a small piece of fuel tubing in the hollow.

3A. take about 1/4 inch ot tubing and cut it in half to give you a "U" shape it acts like a small spring to force the diaphram into it's original postion after the shock is pressed.

yokomo and some other companies include small pieces of foam for the same purpose.

4. make sure the diaphram lip is oiled to prevent it from twisting when you tighten the cap on ..

hope that helps

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Information Man
The problem may be with the diaphrams not springing back to there normal position when the shock is pressed.

try this litttle tip

1.empty and clean a shock

2.refill it with you normal oil ( I use 40 front 45 rear )

3.when you put the diaphram back on include a small piece of fuel tubing in the hollow.

3A. take about 1/4 inch ot tubing and cut it in half to give you a "U" shape it acts like a small spring to force the diaphram into it's original postion after the shock is pressed.

yokomo and some other companies include small pieces of foam for the same purpose.

4. make sure the diaphram lip is oiled to prevent it from twisting when you tighten the cap on ..

hope that helps

Thanks!! Looks like I know what I'm going to be doing tonight! One quick question.......In number 3, I'm not sure where to put the U shaped cutout you spoke about??

Thanks again!

[Information Man]

here is a cheesy picture showing step 3

the fuel tubing is really large in the picture use a small piece
about 3-4mm long only and cut in half.

click here for picture (http://groups.msn.com/rcwild/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=2)

[smg323]

My Sports model has been nothing short of a nightmare. I had to upgrade the shocks initially when I bent on of the stock ones. Next I added chassis braces.
Now I cannot keep this motor running. I have adjusted both needles, but nothing seems to help. The motor dies at idle. In addition, if I open it up and let off the throttle it dies also. I have upped the idle a bit to try to keep this from happening, but with no luck. My hsn is about 2 3/4 out(to keep the temps down under 270) and the low speed needle is rich. I cannot run mine 0.5mm in because this is too lean for mine. At this point, I think I might have an air leak. Has anyone had this problem with tuning? I have two Maxxes and they are a breeze to tune compared to this GX21.
I did dismantle the motor and checked for dirt damage, but the compression is good and the cylinder looks good as well.
Thanks for any comments. :confused:

[ditchbanger]

So how fast is it, 20, 30, 40mph? Will it run with my brother in laws Traxxass SportMaxx as far as speed? I am new to this hobby and don't really know squat. Hobby shop recommended the 7.5 sport, then again it was the most expensive in the store. What advantages does this have over a Traxxas Rustler. I just want one to run around a BMX track, jump, wheelie, have fun with. Thanks

[ditchbanger]

Oh yeah and I don't want to get beat by the sportmaxx in a drag race!!

[smg323]

Ditchbanger,
I am not impressed with the motor in the Sports model at all. My T-Maxx with a Big Bore Pipe and motor saver air filter is a rocket compared to the Inferno. The motor runs hot or not at all. I ran it Sunday at my local track adn richened it to get the temps down and the power was so bad that I was embarassed. I leaned it back up and it ran better, but my Maxx will beat it hands down. If it gets up to 35mph that would shock me. That SportMaxx will beat you up. I have decided to put an OS motor in it and see what happens. I have not heard any bad things about the OS engines. Tower has an OS rb model for $110. I plan to run this motor for a while and learn to drive better and then purchase an RB Concepts motor. I realize I will have to upgrade the drivetrain also. I guess I should have bought the Kanai to begin with.

[KanaiDude]

Hey gang, for all you guys wanting to upgrade your parts to kanai parts, I highly recomend checking out ebay like another guy said, I know this may not be what some of you prefer but really you should check it out. If you type in kanai on ebay you will get about 200 results at any given time. There are 2-3 guys actively selling every kanai part/upgrade on there and each of them has excellent feedback. If you are planning on spending 100-200 at like towerhobbies or stormerhobbies or something check ebay first, I can usually score all the same parts with at least a 25% savings, and most of these guys ship there stuff usps priority mail and its at your door in like 2 days. Its best to try and buy a bunch of stuff at once and they will cut you a great deal on shipping etc. check it out!

[StillwaterHobby]

I am a little confused here regarding the diffs and the differences between the regular diffs, the sport diffs, and the kanai diffs more specifically the drive bevel ring gear large and the drive bevel gear. Here at the shop we have only carried the 7.5 sport so I look at its manual and it says the drive gear is IF21 and the ring gear is IF106. These are the exact part numbers listed earlier as upgrades. These numbers are also the exact numbers listed on kyosho's website for the regular 7.5 and the 7.5sport RTR and the 7.5 kanai II except the kanai II has tcd diffs of course but the ring gear and drive gear are the same. Is this a case of Kyosho putting crap in the car and then just listing the replacement part as an upgrade or are we all wrong and they are all the same??? Please let me know because I have stripped my 7.5 sports ring gear and drive gear in the back and need to get them fixed.

[shogun]

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYBODY!

[shogun]

Guys... can anybody suggest a good set up for my 7.5 sport. i replaced the steering to kanai's 22deg. and blue springs. I ran in a track with a fairly long 50+ ft. straight, a bit loose with a large sweeper, a big jump, 2 single small jumps, a quadruple and a double jump. What rear/front toe in/out and camber will i use? ride height front /rear, droop front/ rear (if needed). Also what tire is recommended. Thanks in advance and Happy New Year to all!

[Unobjectionable]

there are some excellent setup sheets here for the K2 (which is where the 22° carriers come from of course):

http://nitrocross.com/setup.htm

stillwater - you are correct, when you kill the silver cast aluminum gears, kyosho wants you to upgrade to the black hard steel gears...upside is that if you keep them clean, lubed and shimmed correctly, you will be hard pressed to wear them out...tip: always use machine screws for the diffs, 3x10 or 3x12 is fine

[OzDork]

Hi People,
I'm about to buy a 7.5 Sport, and I'm worried about this spur geat that everyone seems to want to replace. So I can order one up front, can someone give me the exact part number I need to order for the replacement? Also somewhere online which takes paypal would be a big help too. I'm in Sydney, Australia, so if anyone knows a hobby shop here which could help, that would be even better. But first step, what actual part should I get?
Thanks

[Madaz]

hello. i just got an inferno 7.5 sport and my standard spur gear is fine. You should run it first to see if it gives you any problems. depends on what surface you run it on.....dirt should not cause any problems, gravel can get stuck in the teeth so check them if you notice it isnt running too smooth. Most importantly get the motor postion correct for a good mesh. Use cap screws (allen key bolts) to secure the motor to the chassis, you can tighten these much better than phillips head screws. This will prevent your motor from moving and stripping the spur gears.

i am reading about the diff gears failing and am considering replacing these but for the meantime ill just drive it till something breaks.

Here is a couple of pictures of my inferno. it is standard apart from a hyper21 4 port engine.

[Madaz]

wahaaaay!!!

[chevy_94]

Does anyone know the price on an 7.5 Inferno kit? or where to buy one from on the web?

[Blaster]

Hey Madaz - nice to see your action pics again! Guess I will have to visit this therad more often:D What are your first drive impressions about your buggy?

Chevy_94 - Try www.towerhobbies.com or www.rcmart.com for a start.

[Madaz]

hi blaster, this thread is a bit slow-moving so dont bother checking back here too often :) Sports model seems not as popular as kania1,2 n 3 threads

1st drive impressions were good. nice balance for jumps, good handling. I like it alot.

since then i have bent the chassis when i lost radio contact and it crashed into some trees. (ive fitted a throttle return spring now and I bent the chassis back to somewhere near flat.) also both front dogbones got bent in that crash. (i straightened them too)

last time i drove it i lost drive to my wheels.... i guessed id stripped my spur gear ... but the spur was fine so i realised id stripped my rear diff. this was after about 4 hours use in total!!!! but i am not using the standard GS21 so i was kinda expecting the diff to fail, still an annoying problem.

Now the car is out of action until i buy some overpriced hardened steel gears and fit them. I think kyosho should supply the sports kit with better quality diffs since they already manufacture suitable durable diffs for the other inferno's. I mean, what would it cost them to make a few more steel gear sets for the sport kits? Im sure most sports owners would not have minded paying a few dollars more for a kit that didnt contain inferior parts???

At least i still have my landmax :-) hehe

i suppose you have a kania so dont have this problem... do you have a 1/8 buggy, blaster? It looks like 2 madforces in the background with your skyline?

[Blaster]

Thanks for your inputs madaz. I recently bought a K2 (see K2 forum) and just drove it once (without the body) over a field on my dad's farm. It think it was the most expensive grass cutter at that time! Too much grass inside whole buggy!

As this is my firts buggy I dunno if the problem is my setup or if it is common to all Inferno's. The suspensions can't handle a land of over 40cm (around 1 1/3foot) high without let the chassis touch hardly on the floor...:confused: I wonder how to solve it without make the buggy to hard.

And you are right. I have one Mad Armour (mounted on a Mad Force RCX chassis) and a Mad Force (mounted on a Mad Armour chassis). I did it because I use diferent exaust sistems to each and just the Mad Armour body has a hole on the side to the exaust.

[theShark]

Originally posted by Madaz

Now the car is out of action until i buy some overpriced hardened steel gears and fit them. I think kyosho should supply the sports kit with better quality diffs since they already manufacture suitable durable diffs for the other inferno's. I mean, what would it cost them to make a few more steel gear sets for the sport kits? Im sure most sports owners would not have minded paying a few dollars more for a kit that didnt contain inferior parts???


I think the problem with the sports version is they use 2 spider gears in the diffs instead of 4. I think the rear diff in a kanai is the same aluminum just that they use 4 spider gears and the lsd/tcd diffs in center and front are steel.

[atm92484_3]

Madaz, aside from putting the 4 gears in the diff like Shark said (I have over 7 gallons on the 3 standard diffs I've installed on my Kanai and they're showing no signs of wear), use silicon fluid to control the diff action. With just grease, the power of the engine causes the diffs to constantly unload and it puts a lot of excess wear on the parts.

[Madaz]

The 2 small spider/planetary gears are fine, the large crownwheel and small bevel pinion are the ones that have stripped. (same parts as StillwaterHobby listed at the top of this page)

Today i bought the hardened black steel items for the rear, I am confident these parts will last like unobjectionable says. Kyosho should fit these parts in the first place instead of the low grade grey alloy castings.
When i fitted the new gears today i filled my diffs with silicon oil: 3,000/front 40,000/centre and 3,000/rear. This should be interesting to see how it handles with such thick oil in the centre.

Are the 2 planetary/spider gears known to strip aswell???? I plan to fit the extra 2 gears and shaft to each diff later on just to make them bulletproof but how urgently will i need them? They didnt appear worn at all? Should i get them now so i dont have to replace the whole lot after the 2 get chewed up???

Blaster, the chassis will always hit the ground from a high jump, i think all RC cars would do this unless you can limit the suspension travel upwards.... I used to fit some rubber o-rings on the shock shafts of my old electric offroaders to stop the car bottoming out. Perhaps try some fuel tubing of different lengths at the bottom of the shock shafts to prevent the shocks compressing past the bottom out point. Be warned though this will mean the shock mounting points will take the full weight of the car when it lands hard. I dont know if this would cause any problems because i have never tried this on a inferno, but its the only solution i can think of that may save your chassis?!

[uDi_MP75]

Madaz, great pics as usual.

I suggest no one does the fuel-tubing/o-rings on shocks though, you just shouldn't limit the travel. The chassis is designed to take the hits, and prevents other parts from taking the stress. Those 'other parts' usually arent made to take the hits, so yeah, just let the chassis slap. Who gives, chassis scratching is just a given with RC, and bottoming out never hurt anyone. Blaster, don't worry about it - all our cars do it and it's perfectly normal. I've landed flat from jumps 10-15ft high, (straight up straight down.. and theres a huge SMACK when it lands) no troubles at all.

the diff oil in the center controls the F/R drive ratio - and generally the larger amount of power is transferred to the rear. Thicker oil forces more front wheel drive action. 40k is probably a bit too much, 5k-7k works well.

[mouses]

As I understand the new MP7.5 RTR comes with a 3mm chassis instead of the 2.5 with the sport.

Can anyone confirm this?

Looking at the part list on Kyosho site they do a blue one which would be cool.

[Black]

Why don't they have a topic for the Sport RTR on here?

I'm thinking about buying one of them and I would like to see what others had to say about it...

Is it pretty much a Sport but already assembled?

:)

[theShark]

Tower says its a 3mm chassis but I just measured two of them with a ruler at 4 different points and it looks like 2.5mm...at some points its like a fingernail away from 3mm, in any case its less than 3mm. The shock towers look like 2.5 as well and I think 6065 vs the 7075 on the kanai.

[mouses]

Is it pretty much a Sport but already assembled?

:) [/B][/QUOTE]

Thats is exactly what it is, I think they produced it because all the competition were produsing RTR's instead of slightly built cars.

[mouses]

Had it confirmed that both the Sport and the RTR are supplied with a 3mm chassis.

[KyoshoKev]

can you post your settings for your High Speed Needle and your Low Speed Needle?

thanks :D

kev

[KanaiDude]

I take it your having some tunning issues, sorry I dont have the exact answer for that one, is sort of a ghost town here in the RTR thread. Just wanted to welcome you to the boards and bump your thread. There should be something on Kyosho's sight maybe a manual you can download that has the factory settings on it, have you run it a while and now you are experiencing problems, what are the symptoms?

[KyoshoKev]

I take it your having some tunning issues, sorry I dont have the exact answer for that one, is sort of a ghost town here in the RTR thread. Just wanted to welcome you to the boards and bump your thread. There should be something on Kyosho's sight maybe a manual you can download that has the factory settings on it, have you run it a while and now you are experiencing problems, what are the symptoms?

Hi dude,

thx for ya welcome, yeah i got heaps of tuning probs....

firstly i fked up all the factory settings except for the spring controlled carby idle gap.

the HSN i got a 3.5clicks out.

the LSN i got about 1 turn in from flush.

i got a problem that i start my engine.. takes hard time to start... then when i press the trigger for fuel... the car dies....


what should i do :confused:

also when it stand still at idle... the car wants to roll by itself... and turning th throttle trim works a bit... but still wants to move off... this happens when the engine warms up a bit...

thx :eek:

[KanaiDude]

Well sounds like it could be a couple of things. The first and possibly the most major problem maybe your clutch bell bearings, the car should not roll without giving it throttle, this indicated to me that there is something wrong with your clutch as long as the idle screw is not turned in so far as to make the car move. If your clutch bearings or part of your clutch fails it will stay constantly engaged trying to move your car because it is not spinning freely on the shaft like it is suposed to, this is the first thing i would check. The second issue is probably your needle settings, but let me warn you if you dont check your clutch first and make sure it is free rolling then you can chase your tail all day long. So you give it gas and your car dies, do you know how to listen to see if your engine is running rich? it sounds like maybe your trying to run it so lean that it just can't run anymore. When the engine is tuned properly or even rich for that matter, you should get some white smoke out of the exhuast, you should also here a slight put put put pattern to you engine, almost 4 stroke like, it is best if you can get your engine to run rich at first and then tighten the needles down in 1/16 turn increments. I would start buy possibly loosening your low speed needle by maybe a full turn, it is always best to re-richen your engine if you are having problems, meening turn the needles counter-clockwise 1/2 - 1 full turn and see if that gets you anywhere. What you are looking for is a good almost 4 stroke sound comming from your engine and alot of white smoke that would be a good starting point, then you could turn your needles clockwise 1/16 of a turn to lean it out some if you lose to much power from the richening process. The other problem you may be having is this motor does not have that much power to begin with so maybe you are trying to run it xtra lean and get all the speed you can, well that sounds good until your motor starts dying, if you want alot of power from this buggy by a new motor... otherwise try and tune the one you have to run it rich and then make small changes from there... hope this helps

[Little_Horn]

I know that the gx21 runs hot, but I found a solution, proved also by rcuniverse.com. Use a hotter plug. This way, ignition will take place before temperatures are too high, resulting in a colder engine.

One other thing: wich percentage of nitro to use?
I see most people use 20%. Have some of you tried 25% on this engine?
The higher percentage of nitro will also help to lower the temps. This might sound silly, but it's true, because of the heat transfer capabilities that nitromethane has. The more nitro, the more heat it will absorbe, helping to cool the engine itself. My only question here is: is the chamber high enough for 25 %, or should I really use some shims? And if yes, how many and how thick?

Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

dont know bout shimming.. but for sure.. they did run hot.. my friend had one.. and it ran rond 250 consistantly.. you can run a hotter plug so it will burn more fuel.. so you can run it fatter.. i dont know bout 25% i know alot of people run 30%.. dont know bout the cooling though.. also when you go to a higher nitro.. you are supposed to remove a shim.. not add a shim..

[Little_Horn]

I think your getting it wrong...
You are soposed to add shims because of the higher compresion, caused by the increase of nitro percentage.
Why do people want to use bigger nitro percentages? Because it geaves more power!
It's like in the real cars.
You increase the fuel injection, increase the air injection (turbo), increase the timming (to prevent detonation) and you have to "increse the space available". If you don't, compresion will be to high and boooommmm!!! Bye bye motor.

It's all a question of balance. Increase on one side, remove on the other.

I'm not 100% sure, but i think that's the right way?
Help me ou here guys!

Thanks.

[Little_Horn]

One more thing. For what I've been reading, the reason why we use a hotter plug is:

The hotter the plug, sooner it will become "red" (much sooner than a cold plug).
When it becomes "red", detonation of fuel will occur.
If detonation of fuel occurs at lower temps, the motor will work properly at lower temps.

I think that it doesn't mean that the motor runs fatter and thus it doesn't burn more fuel... Or does it???
Anyone care for a more detailed explanation?
Gurus?

[dgrobe2112]

You can run a hotter plug.. means it can burn more fuel than a colder plug.. which mean.. you can run it fatter to get the temps down..if you run a hotter plug.. and dont fatten it up.. you may in turn make the motor lean..

And you are right.. the higher % the more shims.. ifyou go low.. you take shims out.. i am having trouble with my WS7 right now.. getting it tuned right.. and i went from 30 to 20.. they said i may need to take a shim out.. sorry for the mis understanding..

[Little_Horn]

I need a little help!
I really don't know for sure what braces are. :confused: Can you post a picture or two of this. I got an idea of what it might be, but I have to be sure, because when I buy the Sports RTR, that's the first upgrade I'll buy, imediatly with the car.

Thanks. ;)

[uDi_MP75]

There are many different types of braces on the car, the major ones being the chassis braces - which is probably what you are looking for.

They are metal bars that run from the top of the rear bulkhead down to the chassis on the rear, and from the back of the noseplate down to the chassis on the front. The sports doesn't have this front brace.

You can either buy the standard Kyosho one for the front, or you can do what most guys do and buy a pair of solid CNC aluminium ones that provide more rigidity. The stock Kyosho ones are metal bars with plastic ball ends, and can be a bit annoying and the ball ends wear after a while.

My friend in canada makes some nice CNC ones at reasonable prices if your intersted.. they are quite nice.

these are the braces:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=3191512699

you can see all his other parts and stuff here:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=mmurray70&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

[KyoshoKev]

hey Udi_Mp7.5,,

u got a pic of how these braces look on the car? and where i put them??
thanks

kev :D

[dgrobe2112]

the braces go from the front steering brace.. to the center of the chassis right in front of the center diff... and then go from the rear wing, down to the chassis right in back of the rear diff..

here is a closeup of the car..
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39684&stc=1

[dgrobe2112]

go here.. http://www.rcwild.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=6&pos=18 you can see them.. they are the gold anodized color.. going down the center of the car

[Little_Horn]

Still more question... lol ;)

Could you tell me the difference between gs-21r and gx-21? I'm going to buy the sports rtr version (gx21).
Could you tell me what should I buy (apart from the motor mounts, new exaust and header, and starter box) if I want to change my engine (gx21) to another, more powerfull motor, with SG cranckshaft?
Could you also tell what percentage of fuel are you using with gx21?

Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

the difference between the motors.. i really dont know.. i do know that my buddy has the GS-21r and it was fast..but ran hot.. and we couldnt fatten it up much.. also the needles on these motors are plastic..

If you get the Sports version of the buggy.. i strongly reccommend upgrading the shocks.. the sports kyosho has very weak shocks..

If i were you.. i would get the Kit version of the car.. for real.. because after all the money you put into this buggy.. you will have been able to buy a Kit version.. and have a much better car..

Here is a list of the stuff my buddy had to replace.. cuz..bent.. or broke.. and he is not a bad driver.. this is just stuff.. on regular running.. on the track.. some were big wrecks.. but i seen bigger.. and worse.. with nothing go wrong.. since he has upgraded these parts. he has had no trouble with breakage.. or bending..

chassis to the thicker chassis
shock shafts all the way around.. and that was just after breakin.. putting it on the track
Engine, con rod bearing busted.. since the engine is keyed.. he needed:
new clutchbell, bearings, flywheel, clutch, clutchnut, header, pipe
new ring and pinion gears, cuz the sports aluminum ones will go out very quick
new diff gears, cuz the sports only has 2 spiders rather than 4
shock towers bent pretty easy
metal tooth spur gear, sports has plastic
better servos.. both throttle and steering
better radio

Im sorry to say.. i am a kyosho driver.. and the sports version of their buggies is a lowsy attempt to get into the RTR scene.. if you are gonna get a RTR buggy, i strongly reccommend getting the Hot Bodies car, alot of Kyosho hopups will fit on the Hotbodies.. or get a Ofna.. Ofna been into the RTR scene forever.. and have quality RTR stuff..

Or get the Kyosho kit, get 100 dollar radio.. comes with servos.. get the OS .21RG motor, and a 063 pipe..

Kyosho kit.. 450
JR XR2 radio.. 99.99
OS RG motor 119.99
Ofna 063, or 086 pipe.. 55.00
for a grand total of.. 725

Kyosho RTR, 450
new motor, 119.99
Motor mounts and plates 20
pipe 55.00
servos 100 bux
new flywheel 25+
clutch shoes and springs.. 15-20
spur gear 30
clutchbell 15
grand total of 832

[Little_Horn]

I know that the sports (and rtr) are weaker. Damn, if I could, I would buy the normal version, I would buy the K3. But I have no money for that, and when I do, the spring/summer time has ended, and I will not drive nither the sports rtr or a k3. The only chance I got is to buy the sports rtr. I can´t really buy another brand of buggy, because my LHS doen't carry them. Besides, I like kyosho alot. They have bullet proof stuff. My objective is to upgrade slowlly, even if it means spending more cash, but al least I can bash... I think I'll buy some stuff from e-bay. It's cheaper. The plastic spur gear and diffs small gears will only wear out with more powrfull motors. I plan to keep the gx-21 for some time. I'm planning to buy some braces, so the chassis stays stiffer.
About the shocks, I'm thinking of upgrading them, but their price is to high. I'm waitting to see if something good will show up in e-bay. When I buy the buggy, al least for some time, I will only bash. I'm aware of the rtr limitations.

Can anyone answer my questions please? HELP!!!

Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i didnt mean to rain on the parade.. im just trying to show you what your options are.. have you thought of the Hot Bodies.. kyosho stuff works on it.. also.. look on Ebay.. you can get some kits from guys who are selling their stuff.. and get it prolly cheaper than getting a new RTR.. Ofna RTR.. is prolly some of the best RTR.. you shop dont carry any Ofna brand stuff?? only Kyosho?? Granted.. Kyosho is on the top when it comes to buggies.. but their RTR buggys are not that great.. just trying to save some headache..

[Little_Horn]

Sorry if I looked ungreatfull, that was not my intention. But I live in a very small, close to 3rd world undeveloped country called Portugal (Portugal - right next to Spain (left)). But I'm proud to say that the actual european champion is from Portugal (Portuguese).
I have to buy a buggy that my LHS supports.
My LHS has good prices, and the guy is extremelly nice. I already bought a Mini-Z from him.
So, I have to stick with what is available in here.
Money is also a big concern, al least for now.
I might have a good chance of "making money" again. Then, I will upgrade the rtr to a better buggy.
The first things I will buy when I buy the rtr are: Oil for the diffs, and chassis braces (front and rear) to get a stiffer chassis. I'm thinking on the suspention issue also...

But I really need a reply about my first group of questions:
* Difference between gs-21r and gx-21;
* What to buy to run a sg shaft engine in the sports rtr;
* What percentage of nitro are you guys/gals using in your gx-21 (or gs-21r).

Thanks again.

[dgrobe2112]

20-30% nitro is good.. will work with any motor.. go with the brand that your shop carries.. you would need a new flywheel, header, pipe, motor mounts, clutchbell, bearings, clutch shoes and springs, and you should be good to go after that.

[KyoshoKev]

i think only the older RTR had the GS21 ... the current RTR the blue and white one all have the GX21... difference i dunno..

i've ran about 3 litres thru my GX21 so far and no probs.. it is a bit underpowered ~ when compared to other engines, but when i lean it out i can't even controll the car on the dirt rc track we have here... so for a newbie, like me, the GX21 is fine.

Basically, choose the car where you can get parts for it easily... my next car will be the Ho Bao Hyper 7... simply coz about 1km away there is a LHS where they sell ALL the parts for it.

cheers

[KyoshoKev]

sorry ...

i think there is a new inferno sports.... looks hott :P

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=652

[Little_Horn]

Nope... That's the same Sports.
Sports and Sports RTR are not the same.
The one in the pictures is the Sports (GS-21R).
You can see by the descriptions and the body.

[KyoshoKev]

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE SIZE of the 4 screws for the engine???

the manual does not seem to list the size for it.

thanks

[-=$LY=-]

Hi guys, ive been watching this thread for many months but never posted, ive found alot of good info in these pages, but i thought id post today! Its a long one, so please bear with me!

I bought a Sports just over a year ago,as i wasent confident on getting a K3 as it was expensive and it needed an engine which meant even more cost, so i opted for the sports as i was new to 1/8th nitro buggies, anyway ive found the sports to be a rock solid learners car, and virtually flawless, apart from the very hot GS21R engine, which isnt so bad, has plenty of power for a beginner and has plenty of oomph for jumps and general bashing!

Now i say bashing, but my meaning for bashing is anything that isnt competetive racing, i dont race my sports, but i do try keep it on a track, its not a RC track admitadly, but a dusty BMX track which i feel is virtually the same as an offroad buggy track, so i havent really based it like my buddies with there savages do, i do on occasion join them in the local car park thrashing, with my pro line road rage fitted, but i stay away from big jumps on concrete as the first time i jumped on concrete i applied to much break mid jump and flipped the car forward and bent the front shock tower and shocker cap, this is why i stick to the BMX track as dry mud is more forgiving than hard tarmac surfaces.

Anyway over the last few months ive been slowly upgrading the sports to a kanai 3, now ive heard many people say this is pointless and you may aswell buy a K3, but this way is fun, i learn alot about both cars, and i spread the cost over time, as i dont have the funds to splash out on a brand new K3.

anyway ive virtually replaces every part of the sports with kanai 3 parts now here comes the reason im posting here, i the only parts i belive i havent upgraded so far is the chassis,front diff,front caster angle plates,rear toe plates, titanium screws, front and rear center universals,clutch and an engine to replace the GS21R,now some of these parts i have on order like the chassis and TCD front diff, but this is where ineed the veterans help, i want to know what ive missed, and what standard parts of the sports that im still uisng (like the suspension arms or rear diff?) are the same on a K3, so heres a complete list of K3 parts ive ugraded on the sports so far!

K3 Servo saver
K3 Front and Rear stabilizers (sway bars)
K3 Shock towers front and rear
K3 Fuel filter
K3 Torque rods
K3 Front hub carriers,arms and turnbuckles
K3 Front hubs tie rods with turnbucles
K3 Rear hubs tie rods with turnbuckles (i have to say if you only get one upgrade for the sports get full set of turnbuckes make life alot easyer)
K3 Blue anodised wheel hubs
K3 Throttle linkages (much better, and u can adjust setting far easyer, and the steering arm from the servo is adjustable)
K3 Front and rear Universals (from diffs to wheels)
K3 Medium blue shocker springs
After market Machined aluminium threaded ajustable shockers (i got there over the K3 shockers as they were similar price and look nice)

Ok so this is where i need help, just assume i want to replace EVERY part of the sports, so i could virtually remake it out of the parts i upgrade, i dont quite want to d othis, as some parts of the car i feel dont need upgrading liek the sus arms ect..

but ill list parts I know i need or have on order, and id appreciate if if you Kanai 3 and sports experts could fill in the blanks or anthing i miss!

Parts i need

K3 Chassis
K3 Engine mount set
K3 Titanium screw set
K3 center universals
K3 Servo tray blue anodised aluminium posts
K3 Front blue anodised aluminium caster angle plates (top and bottom)
K3 Rear bue anodised aluminium Toe plates
K3 Ball bearings
K3 TCD front diff

Ok ive heard that possible the sports standard diffs are different to the K3 standard diffs, so if this is the case, i can add rear and center diffs to the list!

Id also like you guys to recommend a new angine, im never going to race the car competetive, so i dont want any super expensive, but id like somthing with more power than the GS21R and that runs cooler, id rather have low and mid range power, im not to concerned with top end, but i feel any engine i get with good low and mid range power will still blow away the GS21R at top speed!

Well thats a pretty big post for my first, i hope you can all give me a helping hand, and i hope your eyes didnt melt at the sheer amount of text, and you actually managed to read it all, and youll probably all point an laugh at me and wonder why i dont just buy a K3 outright, but im finding this fun and im learning alot about the car, and i can spread the cost!

Anway i await your replies! :)

Simon out!

P.S i havent check this for spelling or grammar, so i apologise now :)

[-=$LY=-]

Heres a pic of my conversion so far!

http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~sly/K3%20sports.jpg

[KyoshoKev]

ure car looks nice mate

as for an engine .. try the ofna picco super comp ... goto www.ace-hobbies.com they got it on special for around $140 (ish) ... i got one... and it can keep up with much much more expensive engine.

P.s u will need new engine mount, engine spacer (goto ebay get the CNC one), flywheel, cluctch, and clutch bell (maybe)


cheers

[Toycar]

Hey, as I posted on the K3 forum. My new engine the Ws7 isn't here yet so I put in the pull-start Wasp.26 ,3 al shoe clutch, 17T C/B, and HB pipe from my MGT and bought a savage header pipe and it hauls. I run on a R/C track and it'll spin all four tires like that. 2.7 hp all bottom end. I'll comapre it to the Ws7 but I don't think the ws7 will have the bottom end of the .26 but of course the top will be better. With the 17T C/B it's too much speed for the track so I've gone to a 15T C/B and acceleration is only slightly better but it's always spinning the tires. I've got to slowly roll on the gas or it's all over the place, breaks the tires loose at speed. Got sick of taking the body off to start everytime so I've gone to the hpi roto-start system for now but am also getting the blank endplate. I've heard that I can get .2 hp more without the one-way bearing. Picco/Wasp .26 are pretty cheap but I know the XTM 247 pro is even cheaper and guys that have run them side by side in identical savages say the bottom end is the same but the 247 pro has a better top end due to its knife edge con rod and turbos cut into the crank. Not sure if the 247 pro is available as a non-pull start.

Fit wise with the one-way bearing endplate I needed to elevate the engine 4mm, grind a bit from under the back plate on the left to clear the engine mounting blocks. If you run the non-pull start version where the end plate is flush it should fit no problem. I was having problems with the engine dying after landing jumps and determined it was the oversize MGT flywheel. I switched to the K3 flywheel (no more engine stalling) and al shoes but used the MGT 15T C/B. All works fine but the C/B to spur gear engagement is all the way to the other end but is fine. The Associated C/B are like the Ofna ones, they're deeper, there is a bigger gap between the gear and bell, and the gear itself is abit wider than the Kyosho ones.

With the bottom end power of the .26 I'm thinking twice if I want to go with the ws7 because the track I run on is all turns and jumps with only a 60ft straight stretch, actually a gradual sweeper. I need bottom too not top. Rules are real loose at my track and they'll accept any engine for thy're races. I've been practicing for about 5 hrs now and I've worn out the crime fighters that were new.

[Toycar]

I just looked on the towerhobbies site Wasp.26 non-pull start $144.99 2.7 hp@26000 rpm 101 oz-in of torque @ 21000rpm as RCnitro tested. The Ofna .21 comp engine is only 2.3 hp. but @ > 30000 rpm. At the track today there was a guy with a Ofna PCR hyper 7 they come with the 8 port engine. when I openned up the wasp on the K3 it made his look like slow Mo.

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. as for upgrading.. yes.. the center and rear diffs need to be added.. also.. not just motor mounts.. but motor plates.. clutch bell, bearings, clutchnut, flywheel, shoes.. that should cover the motor..

the front end arms are different.. cut different for longer droop.. also.. the upper and lower blocks are different.. i reccomend getting the front end kit off ebay.. like 50 bux.. comes with everything..

the rear end arms are the same.. however.. the rear shocks are different.. longer..

when you order your universals.. get the fronts for the rear.. the rear K3 uni;s are too short.. and will pop out.. so get front unis for the rear

motors. there are so many different ones.. you could get a RB S7 and that will be a good motor.. or the RB S5.. great torque.. and mid raing power.. both are in the 150 dollar range..

Your looking for ball bearings.. i highly reccommend avidrc.. www.avidrc.com David joor sells these bearings.. if you dont know the size.. email him.. he sells his bearings.. 20 for 20 bux.. thats enough bearings to replace every bearing in your car... except clutchbell bearings.. and you can get those too.. 20 for 20..

[dgrobe2112]

toycar... the RB WS7 will give you a good mix of top speed with low end punch.. however.. i wouldnt reccommend the 15t clutchbell.. i run a 13t.. with my buggy... i run 1.1 springs.. and composite shoes.. works great.. i got great power.. and i spin tires pretty easy as well.. your RB motor will be rated in the 40k rpm range.. rather than 26k...

[-=$LY=-]

when you order your universals.. get the fronts for the rear.. the rear K3 uni;s are too short.. and will pop out.. so get front unis for the rear

Do you mean the Center rear universal, or the universals that go from the diff to the wheels?

ive already got rear universals, and they seem fine, but ive yet to give the car a real workout

[-=$LY=-]

Heres a video of me and some friends having fun with our nitro cars! Wales bashing vid (http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~sly/Petes/Wales_0001.wmv) note my friends EB4 was on its last legs, hence the suicide jump, alos note my car stays firmly on the BMX track :)

[dgrobe2112]

i was talkin about the rear universals that go to the wheels.. in the K3.. people have been complaining of them popping out cuz they are too short.. so they been putting front K3 unis in there.. so if you upgrade the rear shocks to K3 shocks.. then you may have that problem.. not sure though

[Toycar]

toycar... the RB WS7 will give you a good mix of top speed with low end punch.. however.. i wouldnt reccommend the 15t clutchbell.. i run a 13t.. with my buggy... i run 1.1 springs.. and composite shoes.. works great.. i got great power.. and i spin tires pretty easy as well.. your RB motor will be rated in the 40k rpm range.. rather than 26k...

Thanks, I was saving the stock 13T C/B for the Ws7 for the RPM. The wasp is all low end so I ran a taller C/B get in the powerband.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hello all,
About 2 months ago my cousin got a Kyosho 7.5 RTR buggy. He said it was a spur of the moment thing. He has had some trouble with it, glitching radio, braking parts and doesn’t know how to tune the engine (it has 5 tanks through it). He said that it lives in a box and he would never use it aging so he offered it to me for FREE! I said yes and that I would give him some money for it but he refused. It is completely stock with a couple of spare parts and all running gear, however something is broken in the clutch.

What parts are necessary to make it absolutely BULLET proof? What work would be required to it to handle the most powerful engine on the market now? Who makes HIGH quality hop-up parts? What is the difference between this model and the Kanai 3 model? Money is not an issue...

I am really excited and should get it this week. Links would be relay helpful also

What parts are compatible from the Kanai 2 and 3?
What plastic parts aren’t high quality? Is the kanai plastics made from higher quality plastic?
What type of battery pack will fit?
Where can I buy hop-up's from? They must be able to ship to Australia!

Thanks for your advice is advance!

[KyoshoKev]

hey fantongt i am from australia aswell... (sydney)

basically you need to change ALL your diff parts, or they will be required to be changed very soon, they dont last long, Front, rear and center, as they are either plastic or weak steel.

get complete diff sets off ebay. Hyper 7 diffs all fit. will cost about $100AUD for all 3 diffs. dont get kyosho parts they are too pricey.

engine brace front and rear is also good.

when you need to change ure engine there is about another $100aud in parts you need PLUS the engine.

pm me if you need more help. in where to get stuff. if ure in sydney u should turn up to the local track here and people can show u some stuff to get... its too much to type on the internet.

cheers

[dgrobe2112]

Fantom.. like kev said.. diffs are a definite. and ofna hyper 7 diffs will fit, and very inexpensive off of ebay. the motor, well, thats your descision, my buddy's rtr motor went for a good while. i highly reccommend upgrading the shocks, and shock towers, and chassis braces, cuz those will bend or break in the first wreck. there is a guy on ebay that has some nice polished shock towers. Also, dont, DONT get the threaded chome shocks off ebay, they are junk, all the K1, K2, K3 stuff will work on your car no problem. If you have any more questions, feel free to post.. also.. if you find something that you want to buy online.. and not sure bout it, post here.. we got guys who frequent this board.. and will answer all your questions..

[windellmc]

Does anyone have the part number for the 7.5 sports diff ring gear? That is the cast aluminum one.

[dgrobe2112]

any reason why?? get the regular one.. its much better..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD17&P=ML

[windellmc]

Aluminum weighs half as much so better acceleration. I want to try it and see if I can tell a difference. It was suggested by a team driver. They will wear out after a couple of gallons whereas the steel ones won't. I was curious how much they cost.

[KyoshoKev]

Aluminum weighs half as much so better acceleration. I want to try it and see if I can tell a difference. It was suggested by a team driver. They will wear out after a couple of gallons whereas the steel ones won't. I was curious how much they cost.


all the diffs i came across was the hardened steel one... i was trying to make sure that the crown i was buying WAS NOT the silver one. :D

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i havent seen them.. the rtr diff gear.. i will look around and see if i can find the part number...

[KyoshoKev]

yeah.. i havent seen them.. the rtr diff gear.. i will look around and see if i can find the part number...

i got the rtr manual, and i'm pretty sure, the manual says the part number of the strong diff..

i'm willing to swap you 2 silver ones for 1 hardened steel one, but there in my car at the moment so i dont know how long they will last ;)

[Weraban]

Hi all,

KyoshoKev, I'm from Sydney and am about 2 weeks away from owning the Kyosho MP 7.5 RTR. I have a Kyosho Inferno TR 15 Buggy 1/10th scale which is also in semi racing condition and in dire need of some racing.

The only track I know of for off road nitro is Moorebank. Are there any other tracks arounf the general area? Also, apparently there is one in Newcastle, but it's too far away.

I'm looking to race the 1/10th buggy but there aren't enough 1/10th people around that want to race. Do you know of any clubs that like the 1/10th scale buggy??

Thanks all.

Weraban

PS: anyone looking for the Kyosho MP 7.5 Sports RTR should look here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5923183738&rd=1

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thanks guys! So far ive orderd:
K2 F/C/R compleate diffs
K2 chassis, I know I can't use this until i've upgraded the engine
K2 Center and rear uni's
Parts for 4 brake mod
Steel spur and clutchbell set
CNC ali front/rear braces
CNC engine mounts.

When I get some more money i'll order:
K2 shocks
better towers

Anything else you think I should get?

[dgrobe2112]

fantom.. sounds like you are on your way.. did some good buying there.. wont be long till your kanai spec.. :)

[Little_Horn]

I'm not sure of this, but the rest of the guys can confirm it (or not).
If you're planning on buying a new engine, you have to buy (almost) all those parts that fit in the engine's crank shaft. Don't worry, they are only a few and are cheap.
I think that the RTR buggy engine is a pilot shaft engine (as oposed to most engines that are SG shaft). You can easilly identify this, because the pilot shaft engine's crank shaft is much shorter than the SG crank shaft.
In case you are getting the Sport, instead of the Sport RTR (and of course, you are referring to the Sport as a RTR), the engine is different. I think that the Sport's engine has a SG shaft.
You can easilly identify the two versions because the Sport doesn't have a transmitter and the Sport RTR has.

P.S.: Guys, please confirm this (or not). Thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. for a new engine in a RTR sports buggy.. you will have to buy everything.. motor, motor plates, motor mounts, new flywheel, clutchnut, springs, shoes, clutchbearing, and clutchbell. Also, you will need a new pipe and header. OTher than that.. its all good.. go to www.towerhobbies.com and get the trinity flywheel and clutch set.. its like 35 bux and comes with springs, and nut, and everhthing here is the link.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSC0&P=7

Dont worry bout the engine shaft.. most engines now for buggies come with the correct crank shaft..

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thanks guys,
The engine in it now has a threaded crank (I'm preatty sure anyway). Yeah I have the buggy now. With the parts for the 4 brake mod it dosent look like i'll have enough room to fit in the extra disc and stuff cause of the flywheel in the way. i'll get a pic tommorow so you can understand what i'm talking about. I pulled the whole car apart and put it all back together so I might of installed something wrong (I don't have a manuel) even though nothing is binding and looks right. Thanks again!

[dgrobe2112]

Well the 4 brake mod is something i dont do.. i personally would have gotten cradock brake discs.. they have tons of stopping power.. but.. when you do 4 brake discs.. you can run into clearance issues.. i know some guys who have had that problem. So.. check into that.. you can go to www.kyosho.com and get the manual from there to show how to put it all together.

[Fantom 15 gt]

I loooked on there site and all I could find was parts listings... I think I might hold off on the 4 brake thing for now..

[dgrobe2112]

you allready got the 4 brake conversion.. if you have.. thats fine.. but if you havent.. dont get it.. not really needed.. get a set of cradock brakes from ebay.

here is the link to the manuals..
http://www.kyosho.com/manuals/index.html

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hey thnx mate, yeah i've already got the brake sets, I might ebay them... cheers!

[-=ADA$=-]

Sorry of this was asked, but to change engine in Sports, do i need to change chassis plate or is it same as in regular inferno??

[-=ADA$=-]

Could you tell me if chassis plate on Sports is same as on regular inferno?? my friend got sports and asks cause he will be changine engine, and wants to know if he needs to change plate also

[dgrobe2112]

ADA.. to change from the stock engine in the sports RTR, you will need the new motor plate, and mounts. Also a new clutch bell, flywheel, clutch shoes, bearings.

[KyoshoKev]

also new manifold.... and the axhaust is worth changing but not necessary

[ruchith]

Just wondering, what is the top speed that any one has acheived from the inferno mp 7.5 sport with the gx 21 engine?

[magellan29]

Ive just bought a new engine for my sport, and was wondering if any of you out there had any pros/cons about the "sirio S21 TS" engine.
And does anyone know how much hp it got?

The top speed with the GX 21 engine is about 40-45 mph.

[timmyp]

Mouses:

"The speed of the car can be greatly improved by either dismanteling the pipe and cutting away the majority of the centre baffle. or buying a racing pipe. I have done both and had very simaler results the speed increase is very noticable. "
I have just got a mp7.5 sport, i wasn't going to spend any money on this motor (because of known reasons) just get used to the car then get a O.S or something, "Do you recomend" modifying the stock pipe???? how much of a difference did it make???

[magellan29]

I did actually modify the muffler, but i didnt modify the center baffel, i took the whole thing away.
I dont know know if it made it any faster, but it sounded a lot cooler! :)

Another recommendation i can say to you is: get used to the handling and tuning of the engine, then buy a new engine for it, there is a great difference between the original engine and a new 200-300 dollars engine in power.

When i upgraded my kit i actually dropped my jaw and didnt get it up for a whole week :)

Good luck with a very fun rtr kit! :)

[klampfer]

Hi!

I have some question from this cars:

Kyosho 1/8 Inferno MP-7.5 Sports (Not the RTR) original clutch shoe is made by aluminium or teflon?

I read somewhere the MP-7.5 Sports have teflon clutch shoes, but the MP-7.5 Sports RTR have aluminium. I can't belive it, its true?

[dgrobe2112]

no.. the regular MP7.5 comes with regular clutch shoes.. as well as the RTR, as a matter of fact, i beleive the RTR has a 2 shoe clutch.. instead of a 3 shoe.. now the new MP777 regular comes with aluminum shoes.. as well as the SP1/2

[klampfer]

no.. the regular MP7.5 comes with regular clutch shoes.. as well as the RTR, as a matter of fact, i beleive the RTR has a 2 shoe clutch.. instead of a 3 shoe.. now the new MP777 regular comes with aluminum shoes.. as well as the SP1/2


Hi dgrobe2112, thank your help.

The regular clutch shoes is made by teflon?
The MP7.5 sports AND the MP7.5 sports RTR have teflon clutch 2-Shoe?
i ask just becouse in the towerhobbies i cant find teflon clutch shoes just aluminium.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXENJ5&P=Z
it isn't default shoes in the 7.5 sports?

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. you know.. i am not totally 100% sure.. however.. i do know that my buddies Kyosho MP7.5 sports RTR came with the composite shoes.. those shoes however.. will work if you have a 2 shoe clutch in your car.. i would reccomend those..

also, as far as i know..

MP7.5 sports, is the RTR version of the buggy
then there is the MP7.5 kit form.
then MP7.5 Kanai 1
MP7.5 Kanai 2
MP7.5 Kanai 3

MP777
MP777 SP1
and new to be released prolly next month
MP777 SP2

[Little_Horn]

hmm.. you know.. i am not totally 100% sure.. however.. i do know that my buddies Kyosho MP7.5 sports RTR came with the composite shoes.. those shoes however.. will work if you have a 2 shoe clutch in your car.. i would reccomend those..

also, as far as i know..

MP7.5 sports, is the RTR version of the buggy
then there is the MP7.5 kit form.
then MP7.5 Kanai 1
MP7.5 Kanai 2
MP7.5 Kanai 3

MP777
MP777 SP1
and new to be released prolly next month
MP777 SP2

Not quite...
There is a MP 7.5 Sports and a MP 7.5 Sports RTR.
For example: The Sports has a GS .21 Engine and the Sports RTR has a GX .21 Engine.
I don't know the Sports that well, but I know the Sports RTR. The RTR has a 2 piece al. shoe clutch. This clutch is not durable. In fact, it usually lasts between a quart and half a gallon. I advise to change to a 2 shoe composite clutch. This one is much more durable.

[ruchith]

yeah the clutch shoes are horrible one the sports rtr. mine were gone in a few tank and took the clutch bell with it. The alumiums ones it comes with are a load of ****, get some teflon ones and while your at it, get a better clutch bell like the one from K factory as these don't last long either.

[dgrobe2112]

www.racers-edge.com has clutch bells for 9.99, and are the same as the k factory. also.. they got a clutch kit on there for pretty cheap also..

[-Laffen-]

Does all the Inferno models have interchangeable parts?

[dgrobe2112]

Laffen, yes.. all MP7.5 versions have interchangeable parts on them. you can use the Kanai 1, 2, and 3 parts or even the standard 7.5 parts on your car. The new MP777 has some parts that are interchangeable.. but not much.. you can use the complete rear end from the 777 on your car.. arms, toe blocks.. squat plates.. but they must be the same.. meaning.. if you use 777 rear toe blocks.. you MUST use 777 front squat plate..

hope this helps...

[-Laffen-]

Thanks a lot dgrobe. Just what I needed to hear :)

[MOTRAIN]

Hey guys,

Just WON a INFERNO 7.5 SPORT in a raffle this weekend. Been wanting to get into 1/8 scale and now have one. Quick question..... do all inferno models have intrechangable parts? Can a 7.5 sport use 7.5 or 777 parts? Or are they model specific?


Thanks,
MOTRAIN

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. all the 7.5 parts will work on the sport version you have, also all the kanai 1, 2, 3 versions will work. However, not all the 777 parts will work. Geometry is different, you can use the shocks, diffs, stuff like that, however, you cant use upper arms with the old front upper blocks and stuff like that..

[MOTRAIN]

Ok cool, just so i can start keeping my eyes open.... what are some of the things that really need to be upgraded and what would you recomend getting?

Also who are the goood after market manf. that make hop-ups for this version, ect: Racers edge.......


Where is a good site to get Kyosho specific advice other than here?



Thanks,
MOTRAIN

[Jay-r]

yes.. all the 7.5 parts will work on the sport version you have, also all the kanai 1, 2, 3 versions will work. However, not all the 777 parts will work. Geometry is different, you can use the shocks, diffs, stuff like that, however, you cant use upper arms with the old front upper blocks and stuff like that..

Hi Dg, I have a Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5 Sports RTR, will the regular 7.5 parts fit? also will all the kanai versions fit? Is this RTR really upgradeable to a Kanai? Thanks in adance.

[dgrobe2112]

Racers edge has alot of great parts for all versions of the Kyosho.. they carry alot of other stuff also, like tires and wheels, and air filters.. and oils.. www.racers-edge.com

Anything from the 7.5 series cars will fit on the sports.. and the sports RTR.

As far as setup info.. and other kyosho specific stuff.. i go to www.sgrid.com go to the free conferences, and there is tons of factory guys, like Mark Pavidis, and others tha get on there.. and post info, and setups.. and there are lots of others like Paul King, from www.kingheadz.com who help with setup info, its pretty hard to navigate at first.. however.. once you get the hang of it.. that is the best site.. cuz you get answers from these guys almost immediately..

[MOTRAIN]

Cool Thanks for the help.

What would I look to upgade in the begining... anything? Or should I just run it and see what breaks? What things break on these 1/8 scales?

What is Kanai & K Factory & Fioroni? Are they all Kyosho products?

[dgrobe2112]

Cool Thanks for the help.

What would I look to upgade in the begining... anything? Or should I just run it and see what breaks? What things break on these 1/8 scales?

What is Kanai & K Factory & Fioroni? Are they all Kyosho products?

Kanai, is Mr Kyosho himself, winning a few Worlds Championships for Kyosho, that they came out with a Kanai Edition buggy. the Kanai 1. Then, they did revisions, updates.. redid the front end geometry, and released a Kanai 2. and then following with a Kanai 3. Basically the top of the line buggy for Kyosho.

K-factory, and Fioroni are option hopup companies for Kyosho, and other companies like GS racing, and Mugen. Other companies include Racers Edge, King Headz. I personally like Racers edge, cuz they hard anodize their parts, to make them stronger, also the hard anodizing dont rub off like the blue anodizing of fioroni and kingheadz.. they look new longer.

As far as hopups.. well.. i dont know, its been so long.. just get spare parts, like upper and lower arms, diff gears, maybe upgrade the shock towers and chassis braces. thats the first thing i usually do, get the stuff that hits the hardest.. like when you flip.. the front tower takes most of the impact, so.. update those... if your hard bashing the car.. get updated chassis braces to keep the chassis straight..

[MOTRAIN]

Thanks a lot.... you have been very helpful. I will look into some of those upgrades. Hey where is the best price for Racers Edge hop-ups.... i like the hard anodizing you mentioned.

[Jay-r]

Racers edge has alot of great parts for all versions of the Kyosho.. they carry alot of other stuff also, like tires and wheels, and air filters.. and oils.. www.racers-edge.com

Anything from the 7.5 series cars will fit on the sports.. and the sports RTR.

As far as setup info.. and other kyosho specific stuff.. i go to www.sgrid.com go to the free conferences, and there is tons of factory guys, like Mark Pavidis, and others tha get on there.. and post info, and setups.. and there are lots of others like Paul King, from www.kingheadz.com who help with setup info, its pretty hard to navigate at first.. however.. once you get the hang of it.. that is the best site.. cuz you get answers from these guys almost immediately..

Thanks dg:)

[dgrobe2112]

No problem guys, i usually check all the Kyosho 7.5 and 777 threads.. and try to help out.. www.racers-edge.com has their 7.5 parts for pretty cheap.. join up there.. with a screen name and open an account, its free.. they usually get the order process the same day.. or te next.. and ship the next day.. you can get 2nd day shipping, or ground shipping.

[MOTRAIN]

Pretty much if I beef up my SPORT with every Racers Edge Pro Series options it would be pretty bullit proof? Are there any items thay make for the 7.5 that really is not necessary to get? Or are they all a good idea?

[dgrobe2112]

pretty much all of them are a good idea, some are lighter.. others form a function.. then.. some.. well.. its a toss up.. like the upper center diff brace.. the RE one will be better.. but yours should allready be aluminum.. but other than that.. everything is usually a good idea.. and they looks sweet as heck when you got it all done up.. my Racers Edge 7.5, was very nice.. lets see if i can find pics of it..

Click here for pics (http://www.******.net/members/dannyg)

[dgrobe2112]

i dont understand why this website does this.. but.. when the new window pops up.. replace the *********** with r c p i c s the website rc pics.. with no spaces.. go to about the 4th or 5th page. and you will see some pics of it without the body, and stuff when i sold it.. and on the last page.. see some pics of it fully done.. ready to go..

[MOTRAIN]

Looked pretty sweet man.

Hey what servos do you recommend?
I pretty much have to stay with all K2 or K3 stuff.... not mix or match cause that will jack up the geometry right? If so what would you go with?

If you have time IM on AOL: MOTRAINX

Thanks,

[dgrobe2112]

my AOL is dgrobe2112, however.. right now.. my AOLIM is not working for some reason.. dont know why.. oh well.. i do use yahoo.. dgrobe2112 on that as well..

As far as servos.. depends.. i run KO Propo digital servos.. PDS 2364ICS for steering, and PDS 2343FET for throttle..

I have use Airtronics 357 high speed on throttle, and 358 high torque on steering.. definitly get metal gear servos.. for both.. there are cheaper ones out there.. make sure for steering its over 120 oz of torque.. and keep bout the same for throttle.. to pull on the brakes.. KO servos are pretty good.. their newer ones are better.. you can find some of the older versions.. like the 2143, and 2144 for pretty cheap used.. which are the same specs as my servos.. just mine has some more intellegence in them to keep from burning up and stuff.. i had the 2143, and 2144 servos in my buggy, upgraded to the ones i got now.. and those went in my gas truck.. i always have 1 or 2 servos for spare also.. cuz i have burned up the newer ones also..

[MOTRAIN]

Will any kyosho diff work in this SPORT? Even the 777?

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. i think the diff housings are the same also..

[MOTRAIN]

I am pretty torn right now. After thinking about this... I am not sure I am not better off selling this thing and going ahead and getting one of these SP1 or SP2 kits. I am going ot have a pile of money into this sport thing to get it competative..... any thoughts?

[dgrobe2112]

my thought.. is you are exactly right.. the SP2 is a much better deal, and you can get some SP1, with the SP2 conversion kits for like 650 on some websites.. and by doing that you ahve a spare SP1 chassis you can sell, spare SP1 towers you can sell, and stuff like that.. also.. the SP1, and SP2 are the newest versions of the Inferno, and have alot of aftermarket support allready, and it is a better designed car.. howeve.r. i know some people who are competative with the 7.5. so.. its your call

[dgrobe2112]

basically you get a complete SP1, then they include the SP2 conversion kit, which comes with new air filter, new shock towers, new chassis, new radio tray, new hingepins, stuff like that..

[MOTRAIN]

Heres the flipside....

Use the SPORT buy minimal hop-ups adn run it and see if I like it or not.... I know this buggy can be good on the local club level. Plus it would be fun beating the top of line kits with idiots driving them, in my RTR SPORT!!!

What all do I need to hop-up the diffs?

hmmm, not sure.....

[dgrobe2112]

you will need to get new ring and pinion gears..

[noypi]

how much of a difference will i feel if i upgrade my sport with an os rg???

[dgrobe2112]

not alot.. except.. more consistant

[MOTRAIN]

What does it take to turn the 7.5 into a TRUGGY? Where do you get the arms and other needed parts... does anyone make a complete kit?

[dgrobe2112]

www.renegaderc.com i think has one.. go to ebay.com type in truggy.. there is a kit from holeshot eng for your car also.

[MOTRAIN]

Cool thanks, I will check it out.... link must be down or something.

Do you think this would make for a good truggy? Its basically a K3 now

[dgrobe2112]

should be fine.. i will see if i can find the correct link for the website..

[MOTRAIN]

Do you know anyone who has used the HoleShot Engineering kit? Any thoughts on it?

[dgrobe2112]

personally, i dont like the carbon fiber towers.. but the other stuff is pretty good.. wheel extenders.. and such are pretty nice.. i havent been able to find that website.. used to have it in favorites.. but now its not..

[A Main Racer]

I have an OFNA i will sell for pretty cheap since the Inferno is crap.

[mook]

i've got landmax (a 7.5 sport) and the steering assembly is not smooth.I have rebuilt the front end twice, and its still not smooth

any ideas?

[dgrobe2112]

it will bind when the front end is at full droop, because the steering rods are at such an angle.. however, if you push down on the suspension.. it should smooth out..

[AbsoluteSwed]

I got a problem I think it is an easy fix but i am not sure. Its the Inferno 7.5 sports. (Not RTR, bought the car when you still nedded to assemble the whole thing) As you can see form the pic the toothwheel has been grinded down to nearly zero so no more power to the wheels. If some of you could help me out and list what part/parts I will need in addition to a place where I can find them that would be great. If you what to go as far as give me a link to the exact part with part numer and what not I will be blown away.

Thank You,
Absoluteswed

[dgrobe2112]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_133/products_id/3895

[Jato9]

As you can see form the pic the toothwheel has been grinded down to nearly zero so no more power to the wheels. Absoluteswed

I did this with mine in a matter of a 1/3 gallon of fuel. My motor was done not to long after that(less then a gallon). It only got hot once and that was to about 305. I have upgreaded everything on it now so it is pretty much a Kania now. Just wish I would have bought one of those or a 777 to begin with.