Touring car..

[Kdd]

Got a 4 -tec nitro (lots of others as well)...

Looking to get fast on road electric. This is for a large (150 yard - yes YARD) oval that we race at (my work parking lot).. Its smoother than the road, but not 'carpet' smooth.

One guy uses a 1/12th pan car and its quite a mix and mash...


my question is I'm looking for crazy speed (yes 50 mph ).. (ported the 4-tecs engine and clocked it at 56mph)....

What electric (1/12th) or 1/10th touring should I get???

I was thinking TC3, RS4 or 4 Tec (but 4tec will need new diffs to go with better motor than 20 turn)...

Your thoughts (may go brushless anyways)....

thanks..

[Skribble]

If your street is pretty smooth, go with a 12th scale(My personal favorite is the CRC Carpet Knife[4 cells only] ;)). They go around 45 MPH with a good stock motor and 6 cell batteries(CRC also has a six cell version which is called the Six-Pack). If you put 8 cells and get a hot motor you will do 70+ MPH.

If it's rough and rocky, get a TC3(shaft is impervilous[sp?] to dirt) or a XXX-S(closed drivetrain).

[TC3 Benjammin]

It's gonna take way too much to get a touring car to go that fast. You should get a pan car. Either 1/12 or 1/10 scale.

I have an RC12L3, running 6 2400 cells and a 14T motor. The thing screams by so fast I can't hardly control it. It's pretty badass. I was going to put my 10T motor in it, but the 14T is way fast enough (for me, anyways).:cool:

BTW, I sold my TC3 to buy this car cause I wanted to go faster. I'm very happy with my decision.:D

[Fafnir]

There is no question, the 1/12 car is going to be the fastest and quite possibly the cheapest and easiest way to go. Where else besides your work's parking lot are you planning on driving it??? The thing I like about my TC3 is I can drive it on almost any paved surface and with the $50 rally conversion kit it is a blast to take off road. The 1/12 is going to be limited to really flat good condition pavement or carpet so it really comes down to what you want to do with your car when you are not racing in your work's parking lot.


--Chad

[PCC]

We do impromptu racing at a large public parking lot and one of my buddies brought out his RC12L3 with a 10T double in it. He blew everyone away and that included a few 1/8's. One of those had a C4 and one pissed off driver (my brother!).

[Skribble]

LOL. Gotta suck for the gas guys. :D

[Kdd]

Thanks all... You've been a great help...

I'm going to get the 'six-pack' from CRC (maybe a high end 10T double or even a brushless as well)...

Should be a blast... I'll radar it when I get it all assembled and going....


PS:I've been looking into the batteries situation and for just fun running, I figure its cheaper to pick up ten (10) 1500 mah packs for about $125 and charge them all up and go crazy...... I can even charge the first pack when its dead and by the time its done I'll be ready for it (sort of assembly line mentality...LOL)...

It should be perfect because I usually bring about 3-4 cars each time and change over and run 'whatever' I feel like zippin around with... (4-tec, 1/5th FG, 1/8th buggy etc etc.....

Thanks again....

[Notnerb]

Careful with the batteries. If you run them until they die, and then immediately charge them up, your gonna ruin them. You should wait until they are completely cooled, then charge 'em. Otherwise, you take a chance of overheating or melting.

[YZ]

kdd - that is exactly what I do. I buy a ton of cheap 1500 sport packs and go crazy. It can be kind of funny when I'm at the track practicing. I can go non-stop. When one pack is dead, I pop in another and I'm out practicing again. While all the others are waiting for their 3000's to charge I'm getting in 4 times as much track time.

Also, with a cheap $10-12 pack I'm not worried about abusing it. When I'm at the track my packs never cool down. I would be different if I was using 3000's. I sure as heck wouldn't want to burn up a $100 battery pack. but for $10...