Kyosho Superten GP's and FW-04 [Archive]

evilGearhead

03-29-2002, 11:44 PM

its a real shame that os doesnt make a high performance version of that motor, the design just makes more sense than a conventional motor.
of course they wont because most cars cant fit them

hey, have you seen the tamiya TGR? thats a bad-*** car
its also designed around the ld motors

if i had the money to do it, id just buy an os 26fs 4stroke ,
thats an option for my car, too but the motor is over 200 and the mount kits another 150
but then my fellow racers would REALLY ***** and whine when i beat them. .26 four vs .15 two . they certainly wouldnt like that hehe

3434

03-29-2002, 11:59 PM

I have the .12 I bought it new around 97. It changed hand a few times but came back to me. This engine was designed around the superten. Not a popular class and you could buy a cv.12 that made the same hp and weighed about half as much.

3434

03-30-2002, 12:12 AM

Did you look in speedmart?

Mika

03-31-2002, 08:19 AM

:D The winter just finished here and I finally got my new Kyosho Super Ten outdoors. Man, it's an awesome car, so cool to drive and it's so fast (it's got 2-speed, too).

I've got the 2-stroke version as well, but you really can't compare - the 4-stroke is so much greater! Sounds and the feeling, vow! Full 10 points to Kyosho and O.S. making this to happen.

If you want a great car that's so cool to drive, you'd better check this one out!

evilGearhead

04-04-2002, 06:36 PM

yeah, the 4 stroker is pretty nice, i would have got one, but i race,
and its not legal for pretty much any racing class.
but its still badass
ive got the os ld on mine, and it improved my handling quite a bit

did you buy the 4 stroke kit, or did you buld it up from stock?>

Mika

04-05-2002, 03:32 AM

Thanks, man. I bought the 4-stroke version but also bought a bunch of hops-ups like two speed and special clucth shoe for it (I heard the stock plastic one is not the most durable..).

It's got also the hard main chassis, carbon fiber upper deck, teflon shocks, sway bars and universals in front. I'm also using the JHM Aero Engineering's Glow plug igniter which is a nice add for performance boost in lower rpm; starting is also easy - just pull the cord.

Eventually it became quite expensive but driving it is really something now !! FM radio works also nicely; there's no radio glitching at all.

bossofGOD/mt

05-26-2002, 03:12 PM

i need help!!!!

i need to know the distance between the engine mount holes on the chassic. from front to back on the mounts.

if you think i left something out then go ahead and include it. thanks

nolanfarmer

09-28-2002, 09:48 AM

:D This is what I've done to my Superten. It has the OS .40 Four Stroke at 24 degrees and my own braking one-way bearing installed.

Mika

10-02-2002, 09:34 AM

A .40 size 4-stroke on FW-04? That's really something..! Unfortunately the picture is so small that I can't really see it there, but cool! How does it perform, fast eh??

I've got two .26's and even though they're nice (run well and quite fast), I've been recently moving to 2-strokes for more speed. Ive got .15CV-Hyper on the other car and waiting for the .15RX for the other.

I've also been planning to get a used monster to install the 4-strokes - yes both - on a single car! What do you think? It could be quite powerful setup.

nolanfarmer

10-02-2002, 05:13 PM

It's really a Superten Four II updated with my own chassis and FW04 fuel tank. It reall jumps off the line and handles very well with the engine leaned over lowering and centering the gravity.
I wish I could get a better picture on the site.

The twin four-strokes in the MT will be very awesome. I can't wait to see it!

evilGearhead

10-03-2002, 03:21 PM

hey, have you tried the os ld motors in your cars?
ive got a 12ld that ive ported out on mine, and it really does help the handling, plus im using the 4-stroke fan kit that ive lowered down to help out cooling, so i dont have to cut any holes in the bodies.. by the way what bodies are you using? i have had nothing but handling problems using the mclaren body. what do you think about the supra body?

nolanfarmer

10-03-2002, 03:52 PM

Any time you lower the center of gravity you will help the handling. I must admit the Superten handled better with the .26 laid over in a HPI Viper body. The .40 puts more weight farther back. I wouldnt know abouut the Supra.:p

thx0258

10-03-2002, 07:05 PM

I've got an FW04 with the 2-speed and the O.S. .15ldx motor. Even though the chassis handles well, and is very easy to drive, that motor just does'nt have the grunt to keep up with all the modern high-horsepower .12's out there. All in all, it's a pretty good "parking lot" car, just don't expect it to keep up with the lighter and more powerful 1/10 touring cars that are so popular now.

Mika

10-04-2002, 07:24 AM

Now when I have moved from 4-strokes to 2-strokes I've got the car a bit lighter and much faster (they've had 2-speeds from the beginning).

I had also pretty bad times the car stayin' on the track and not spinning, but since modifications below it works really well - and fast nowdays. No spins anymore and car moves like on rails. Basically the setup works with any modern .15 size out there.

- Teflon shocks with 800wt Kyosho silicone oil, heavy springs front and rear, the car to sits quite low
- Rear stock diff filled with 15000wt silicone oil, dogbones pressed tight against the rubber o-ring, and the diff case sealed with silicone sealant; the oil hasn't sweeped out anymore and the diff works very well
- Front ball-diff set quite tight, close to one-way (requires consistent maintenance which is a bit pain but it's worth of doing)
- Sway bars, rear sway set quite loose
- Universal axles (front-only is good enough)
- Hard alu chassis, graphite deck, 2-speed, tuned pipe (Kyosho special pipe)
- Radial tires, Skyline Calsonic Body
- No toe-in (or very little) in front, otherwise stock setups

Also tried the viscous coupling in front (it does not fit in rear), but since ball diff in front haven't really used it.

Hope this helps!

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/47.jpg

thx0258

10-10-2002, 04:22 PM

Nice FW04! Sounds like you've got it set up quite well. I'm running the stock gear diffs with Ofna's 30,000 wt "Dif-Lok" in the rear, and 50,000 wt in the front. Black sway bar up front and gold in the rear with heavy (red) HPI springs up front. I run pretty much the same suspension settings you're running. One thing I did to keep the chassis from bottoming out, is to drill two holes in the front bumper up near the bulkheads and drive a screw in each side all the way through till it almost touches the top of the lower "A" arm. This serves as a "down stop" and prevents the front of the chassis from scraping the ground. I did the same thing at the rear drilling through the body mount bracket with the end of the screw stopping the top of the upper rear arm. The front works better than the rear, but anything to keep the chassis off the ground would be a help.

Mika

10-10-2002, 05:25 PM

Thanks! Sounds like you have got one yourself, too. And thanks for tips, although my chassis is pretty "scraped" after huge jumps on one parking lot close by which has nice hills to go fast up and down (just like in those movies)..wow. But the hard alu can take a lot of hits without really getting hurt or bent etc. (Yeah, we've used this lot when you don't want to spend an hour to travel to the local track and it's a nice change,too).

BTW, I just received O.S. 15 RX from Tower and installed it today. It looks cool on the car. It started also snowing here, so it seems I need to wait six months before getting wheels on the ground, too bad. I suppose it's gonna really fly the car with over 1 BHP.

Take care!

thx0258

10-11-2002, 07:37 PM

Please resize your image.

thx0258

10-11-2002, 08:33 PM

Whoops! I don't know how THAT happened!http://images.andale.com/f2/129/106/8880221/1034396104015_P5010007.jpg

Mika

10-12-2002, 12:30 AM

Allright! Looks goood!

Skribble

10-14-2002, 11:56 PM

How's a Superten for bashing and how fast do they go with 2-speed and decent .15? :confused:

Mika

10-15-2002, 06:41 AM

It's a good car and a little big bigger than 1/10 cars. With a good setup fun to drive, but that can get quite expensive. I think there's better cars with less money these days in the 1/10 market, but if you want something bigger then SuperTen is good for you. Racing can be hard to find if at all. I can't say the exact speed but with a good setup and engine plus 2-speed and other goodies, it can be as fast as any car. Really good for parking lot bashing since it can take a lot of abuse without breaking.

nolanfarmer

10-15-2002, 10:30 AM

OK guys, I'm trying to post a larger picture. What's with the Maximum size: 61440 bytes?

Skribble

10-15-2002, 03:46 PM

Get your picture hosted somewhere like www.PictureTrail.com or www.WebShots.com. You can post bigger images then by using the IMG tag.

Well, I'm on a budget of about $600 and I'm wanting something slightly bigger then 1/10 if it's not too expensive. I'm deciding between the Superten, TGR, Super Nitro, or a NTC3. For the NTC3, I'd run a Collari engine, and the others I'd have to run the stock engine. Do you know if the TGR's or Superten's drivetrain can handle a .21?

thx0258

10-15-2002, 08:44 PM

I agree with Mika. While the FW04 is a very good car, there are very few of them to race agianst. You are better off buying the Associated NTC3, because you still get all the benefits of shaft drive, and you also get a MUCH better "clutch" type 2-speed. And, the are MILLIONS of 1/10 scale cars to race against. I will still keep my FW04, but I intend to buy an NTC3.

nolanfarmer

10-15-2002, 09:31 PM

OK, I give up. What is and how do you use a IMG Tag?

StevePond

10-15-2002, 11:12 PM

Hey Nolan! Here's what you do...

either click the "IMG" button while in the reply screen and simply enter the URL where the image is hosted, or make sure the image is below 60K in size and you can attach it directly to your post. Use the browse button in the reply window to locate the image on your hard drive, and simply submit your reply. Let me know by direct email if you need any more help.

Skribble

10-16-2002, 12:53 AM

Well, the only actual "Racing" that happens around here is at a track 30 minutes away, and it's a pretty small track and if there was a straighaway I'm guessing it was like 25-35 feet, but the longest straightaway is only like 10 feet. :( I mainly want a supersize car for bashing, street racing, and speed runs. Have any of you had any experience with the Tamiya TGR? :confused:

Mika

10-16-2002, 07:43 AM

Maybe you would also consider Kyosho LandMax 2. It's bigger (1/8) than ordinary 1/10 size cars, very fast as far as I know and you can run it on asphalt as well as on dirt. Unfortunately you can't get touring car bodies on it (old Landmax bodies for example) ? Only rally bodies available.

nolanfarmer

10-16-2002, 11:36 AM

Ok, thanks Steve.http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1256789&uid=734242&members=1

StevePond

10-16-2002, 12:08 PM

Nolan - do you have photoshop or any image editing software? If so, save the image as a jpg file, about 500 to 550 pixels wide and 72 dpi. Then you can simply attach it to the post. Photo hosting sites don't allow direct linking (images appearing directly in the posts on bulletin boards). You can only link to them, so they get the "hit" every time someone clicks the link to view the picture. I took the liberty of tweaking one of your pictures so I could post it here directly.

StevePond

10-16-2002, 12:10 PM

Just curious - how does it run with a .40?! It must be pretty ballsy!

nolanfarmer

10-16-2002, 01:51 PM

Thanks again Steve. I'll get the hang of it when I have more time.

I only ran it once and it would spin the tires pretty easily. I drag raced a friend with a hopped up XXX-S and it would take it off the line by about a foot and hold it there through first gear. I never got it to hit second so there is a lot more speed to be had. It would spin out pretty easily with the heavier engine, especialy with the one-way bearing in the front drive.

Mika

10-17-2002, 02:18 AM

Wau, that's really cool looking SuperTen, Nolan!
Too bad you cannot keep it on track..

Here's the FW04 with the new O.S. RX installed.
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/slide0001_image006.jpg http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/slide0001_image008.jpg

nolanfarmer

10-17-2002, 07:49 AM

Thanks Mika. Thats an awesome ride. I wish we could get together and race.

I think some more testing is in order. I suspect I may have to extend the wheelbase from the rear to 300 mm. I also have a suspension conversion with universals and A-arms that adds 20 mm to the width. Then a 1\8 Lola body should fit.

thx0258

10-17-2002, 09:52 PM

Okay guys, now you really did it! Now I have absolutely NO CHOICE but to dump that crumby little "small-block" and up the ante! Mika? Great looking .15 in a great looking car. Nolan? Even better looking 4-stroke in an even cleaner looking car! What can I possibly do to earn your respect? How about a "WANKEL ROTARY"?! Let me know what you guys think.
http://images.andale.com/f2/129/106/8880221/1034905199035_car2.JPG
http://images.andale.com/f2/129/106/8880221/1034905199905_car.JPG

Skribble

10-18-2002, 12:02 AM

No worky. :(

Mika

10-18-2002, 06:19 AM

Thanks thx0258!
But your car DOES look great, too. I like the low profile of the car, it's really nice. Wankel, uh - I know nothing about that one ..
:rolleyes:
I hope the RX will double the power compared to my O.S. .26 4-stroke and .15 CV-Hyper currently on the other car. Let's see - next summer :(

Nolan, where did you get those parts for extending the wheelbase ? HPI or Kyosho or somewhere else ? Lola sounds good. I like the HPI 300mm bodies (Laborghini for example) , but the Kyosho is 280. Do you think they would fit somehow ?

StevePond

10-18-2002, 07:05 PM

Mika - that's not a rotary, that's an O.S. LD engine without it's black molded engine cover in place.

BTW - did any of you check out Nolan's cars in the last issue of Nitro?! Those are some SWEET off-road SuperTens! :D

thx0258

10-18-2002, 07:49 PM

Hey, guys; as SteveP pointed out, that's NOT the rotary motor I was eluding to in my last post. I was just posting a couple of pictures of the car in it's current state. Sorry if I misled anyone, as that was most certainly NOT my intention:)

nolanfarmer

10-18-2002, 09:57 PM

I found the parts for widening the wheelbase in a hobby shop bargain box and got them for 1\2 price. It's a Kyosho Wide suspension kit for supertens. I've not seen it any where else.
With this and an extended chassis (300 mm) a 1\8 lola body should fit.

thx0258

10-18-2002, 10:12 PM

1/10 on-road bodies ALMOST fit. The closest thing to a Lola body that will fit without any modifications to the body is the HPI BMW LeMans body. You will, however, have to fabricate a front body mount because the front of the body sits so low, that the stock Kyosho body mounts don't fit. It is, without a doubt, the fastest body I've tried for "parking lot" situations. For a closed track, however, the HPI Viper body offers the best balance of downforce/drag. Of course, thats just MY opinion. I could be wrong!
Happy Motoring!

Mika

10-19-2002, 04:13 AM

Originally posted by thx0258
Hey, guys; as SteveP pointed out, that's NOT the rotary motor I was eluding to in my last post. I was just posting a couple of pictures of the car in it's current state. Sorry if I misled anyone, as that was most certainly NOT my intention:)

Yes, I knew from your previous posts, no worries. The LD gives really nice layout; they'd have to just get more boost out of it these days, right. BUT, can you really get a Wankel for these cars ??

Mika

10-19-2002, 04:17 AM

Originally posted by SteveP
BTW - did any of you check out Nolan's cars in the last issue of Nitro?! Those are some SWEET off-road SuperTens! :D

That's interesting, gotta get it.

Mika

10-19-2002, 04:27 AM

Thanks guys for your comments on bodies! The 300mm Widening kit sounds cool, but maybe it's something that's not produced anymore (for FW04).

Mika

10-19-2002, 04:43 AM

Originally posted by Skribble

Well, I'm on a budget of about $600 and I'm wanting something slightly bigger then 1/10 if it's not too expensive. I'm deciding between the Superten, TGR, Super Nitro, or a NTC3. For the NTC3, I'd run a Collari engine, and the others I'd have to run the stock engine. Do you know if the TGR's or Superten's drivetrain can handle a .21?

This is a little bit late reply, but I give it go :)

I think SuperTen could handle the power with it's shaft drive, but I don't think it's worth of doing. I mean, with .21 size engines you'll get so much power that you will have hard times keeping the car on track. In addition, you need to do quite a lot of mods to the car to fit one. (They did that once in RCNitro for HPI Super Nitro, maybe you could check that article). .21 size engines suit best to cars that are made for it, that is 1/8 on-road racing cars (not touring).

I think with a good .15 racing size you'll have way enough of power, but it's not the whole story. The overall car setup is most important factor to get it really moving - see previous posts under this topic. But, like I said before, it can get quite expensive. BTW, I didn't like the stock Kyosho engine for the SuperTen so maybe you'll need to be prepared to change it for a RB or O.S. like so many people do as well.

thx0258

10-19-2002, 11:28 AM

I think strange, slightly "off the wall" custom projects are one of the coolest thing about the r/c hobby. The only thing stopping me from rigging up a Wankel rotary is the lack of time. And money. And enginuity. And modeling skill. And access to a machine shop. Oh well, at least I can DREAM about cool stuff like that!

Mika

10-20-2002, 06:37 AM

Yes, yes, exactly! It's definitely part of the hobby. But money tends to be an issue.. ;) ..and bigger (engine) is not always better.
Was it this O.S. rotary that you had in mind :cool:
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg1400.jpg

juanrc

10-21-2002, 06:28 PM

hi guys,i got a new superten with the 4 stroke engine and i need to brek it in,how do you break in this type of engine,what fuel do you guys use,and as far as tuning what will be some of the pointers?????
any help will be really appreciatted

thank youi

thx0258

10-21-2002, 08:33 PM

Yeah, Mika, that's the rotary I was thinking about. I think the "cool factor" is completely off the charts with that motor! I've never actually seen one in person, but it sure looks cool in the pictures.
juanrc; sorry, but I've never had a 4-stroke ( always WISHED I had, though!) so I can't give you any advice on break-in or tuning. Good luck with it though, and keep us posted. Pix too!

nolanfarmer

10-21-2002, 09:49 PM

I will only use the Wildcat Fourstroke fuel. The engines run cooler and make more power than with 2-stroke fuel. I have run the 20% nitro with good results. Start at about 3 turns out to break it in. Make sure it smokes a LOT, if not dial it out some. The motor will still smoke a lot when running normaly. If you get it too lean it looses power and rpm's and will get quite hot. Check your fan often. You will need to adjust your valves after you break it in.
Nolan

evilGearhead

10-21-2002, 11:41 PM

about the body issue, has anyone run the mclaren f1?
i just CANT get the carto handle at all with this body,
i think theres too much downforce in the front, there are no cutouts in the windshield, as i have an os ld in there, plus i have found a way to lower the 4-stroke fan to cool it better. i would post pics, but my wal-mart digital camera sucks. i can explain how to do this if anyones interested.
have you tried the supra body yet?
also, you have to check out the new lamborghini mucielago by hpi... and yes, its a 280 wb.
also, do you use the dual-rate springs or viscous coupler?
i love the coupler shaft, but the springs seem to make setting up kinda difficult.

i haven checked this forumin some time.
its nice to see people interested in a quality race car for a change:)

Mika

10-22-2002, 05:29 AM

Oh, man, this murcielago is cool! NEED to get one.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/new/murcielagosn/DSCN2201k2.jpg
I wasn't aware of this new body from HPI that fits SuperTen! Thanks for the advice, evilGearhead :cool:

I tried the coupler; it was nice with stock diffs since it balances the power between front and rear, and you can get the car running more like front-wheel-driven (when installed in rear - it does not fit in the front without mods). See previous posts for car setups, too.
It eventually became unnecessary, since I installed ball diffs in front - those have built-in "slipper clucth" in them which balances the power between rear and front tires nicely.

yeah, it's great to have some activity here :D

Mika

10-22-2002, 05:35 AM

Originally posted by juanrc
hi guys,i got a new superten with the 4 stroke engine and i need to brek it in,how do you break in this type of engine,what fuel do you guys use,and as far as tuning what will be some of the pointers?????
I've broken-in two of those, and achieved great results by following the O.S. manual. I think it went pretty much the way Nolan advised (thanks Nolan!), but opposite to him I didn't feel the need to tune the valves after break-in. Some time after that I did, but it didn't seem to improve the performance, which was quite impressive all along. Maybe I didn't do it right..
To get a little more punch out of a 4-stroke I might consider a 2-needle carb for it - what do others think ? I wonder what could be a right one.

Mika

10-22-2002, 05:36 AM

Originally posted by thx0258
Yeah, Mika, that's the rotary I was thinking about. I think the "cool factor" is completely off the charts with that motor! I've never actually seen one in person, but it sure looks cool in the pictures.

ABSOLUTELY! But sure it ain't look easy to install..

thx0258

10-22-2002, 09:34 AM

Bodies. As far as bodies go, the Mclaren F1 that came with MY car( it was the "long version") was a lousey handler too. It was too heavy, and it bounced up and down on the stock body mounts. That, and the rear wing was too small. I changed to HPI body mounts and HPI bodies and never looked back. Although the bodies Kyosho makes have a greater amount of detail, they are not as well suited to the track as bodies from HPI.

Mika

10-22-2002, 11:24 AM

I didn't like the long McLaren either. On the contrary I've really liked the Nissan Skyline Calsonic body; I feel it works well on the track. Unfortunately I haven't been able to try out other bodies, so I cannot compare. THX, what do you think about the Lamborghini, could it be as good as other HPI bodies that you felt are good for racing ?

evilGearhead

10-22-2002, 07:58 PM

yeah, the murcielago handles pretty good... but there is a reason that hpi bodies cost about half as much as kyosho.. hpi bodies are about half as thick, and about half the detail, plus they dont come with any cool details like 3-d headlights, mirrors, and plastic wings.
the kyosho bodies i have used seem to last forever, instead of tearing and breaking apart, they just wrinkle up some, which works out alot better for the small track and rowdy racers where im from. we have three superten classes here, which is really strange, because you harldly see a superten racing class anywhere. about 20 supers every week.. but almost all are hpi's.

so im thinking my next body will be a castrol supra , or maybe the porsche gt-1.

hey, anybody got a like new or new os ld15 to sell? ihave a brand new 12ld for sale or trade.. i bought two of these, but im looking for more torque

frank13

10-22-2002, 11:54 PM

i just got one in a trade,, adn it seems in good condition , but i cant understand the brown parts ,, does anyone make parts for this car in black , and do they have a conversion just for that ,, also ,, is the super ten and the fw04 the same car

Mika

10-22-2002, 11:56 PM

That'st great, two dozen supertens on a track, wau :cool:
How do you find HPI SuperTen - is it "as good" as Kyosho ?
I haven't seen one live, neither Tamiya TGX.

That's true, Kyosho bodies last long. and the material is good. They can take a lot of hits.

nolanfarmer

10-23-2002, 01:30 AM

No there are quite a few parts that won't interchange like axles, fuel tank and A-arms. The FW04 must be an improvement. I don't know about the brown color though.

nolanfarmer

10-23-2002, 01:37 AM

Where did you find this older kit? It is a great kit. I have one that was modified.
I can tell you that the intake manifold screws that hold the carburator will never stay tight. You need one that is improved and comes with the current OS 26.
If you can't find one I have a couple of spare's.
Nolan

Mika

10-23-2002, 05:01 AM

Originally posted by frank13
i just got one in a trade,, adn it seems in good condition , but i cant understand the brown parts ,, does anyone make parts for this car in black , and do they have a conversion just for that ,, also ,, is the super ten and the fw04 the same car

The "original FW04" comes with partially brown parts, but tThese days Kyosho sells also an updated kit with all-black parts. This kit also includes hop-ups like univerals in front and 2-speed (not FZW56 but cheaper one) that are not included int he original version.

Thus, you can get all parts in black, too. Check out http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ0&P=7

StevePond

10-23-2002, 07:36 AM

Originally posted by frank13
i just got one in a trade,, adn it seems in good condition , but i cant understand the brown parts ,, does anyone make parts for this car in black , and do they have a conversion just for that ,, also ,, is the super ten and the fw04 the same car

You can take the brown parts off the car while you're cleaning it, place them in a pot of boiling water with a decent dose of RIT black fabric dye and they will all be black for life. It's actually good for the parts to boil them in water.

Mika

10-23-2002, 02:36 PM

Thanks for the tip, Steve!

evilGearhead

10-23-2002, 06:45 PM

yes, the fw04 and the regular superten are way different,. the Fw-04 has a triple pillow ball suspension with the new-style arms and adjustments, similar to a yokomo or serpent.

as far as the hpi supers go, they are just hopup magnets, the guys that can hang with me on the track have spent as much money on their hpi's as i have spent on my veteq!.
plus, i just dont like belt drive, and to adjust caster on the hpi car, you have to change out the steering blocks, and they bend and throw dogbones, and even universal shafts like crazy. the surfaces on the tires are rounded, instead of flat on the kyosho, so they dont get nearly the bite, either, so im not a huge hpi fan. (although i am going to give a serious look at that new savage truck, that thing looks sweet)

most of the plastic parts on my fw04 were brown when i bought the car, but all of the new parts they make for it are black, so youll get rid of those brown pieces when you fix the car. im still hunting fo an os ld15, tower has them in stock again, but they arent worth $170 :rolleyes: because i paid $40 each for both my new ld12s on ebay

Mika

10-24-2002, 03:13 AM

Thanks for the comments about HPI supers, Dr. Evil ;)
I suspected something like that; they don't seem very tempting, at least when stock. Kyosho rulez!
It would be fun to race against them, though.

BTW, it seems you prefer slicks over radials ? I've been very satisfied (over slicks) with radial tyres, but maybe it's because of the not-so-good pavement on the track.

thx0258

10-24-2002, 11:26 AM

I had an HPI Nitro RS4 Racer before I got the FW04, and Ive seen plenty of HPI Supers. The HPI Super is just a stretched-out version of the regular NRS4. The HPI is a bit lighter than the FW04, and the bodies are lighter too, so it should be a bit faster than the Kyosho. BUT, the Kyosho has a more sophisticated chassis, and is also a little more durable. I think the strenght and durability of the Kyosho, out-weigh the lightness and potential advantage in speed of the HPI in almost all parking lot and race track situations.
As far as tires go, I have nothing but good things to say about the K-Zero's. I run the "25" compound exclusively at the small track I go to, and they really hook-up well when the they get warm. I run the treaded tires (soft compound) in the parking lots.

evilGearhead

10-24-2002, 02:48 PM

well, on the tires it just depends on out tracks condition. some days they sweep it, and spray compound. thats when i use the kzeroes. but on the days that the track is dusty, unclean, or hasnt been sprayed i use the v-pattern radials.
also alot of the hpi guys are using foams, so low bite foams + light weight = easier for me to push out of the way :D

you can make a hpi super really fast by spending asstons of money on it, but it just makes sense to buy the more advanced car in the first place.

so whats the difference between the 25r and 25z tires? which ones are better

thx0258

10-24-2002, 03:21 PM

As far as which tire is better, I could'nt say. The only difference that I can see, is in the price: $1.50/pair. I don't know if the color of the foam insert has anything to do with the performance of the tire, but the "R" has black foam, and the"Z" has grey foam. I've read on the HPI forum that people with Kyosho Super-Tens are using front rims on all four corners and are then mounting HPI "C-30's" front and rear. They swear by these tires, and say that they then further tune the car by using a combination of "low-bounce" and "medium-bounce" foam inserts. I've never actually seen this, but this is what I've read.

Mika

10-26-2002, 01:31 PM

These Wolfapack Radicals hop-ups are really cool http://www.wolfpackradicals.com (http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/) .. too bad they won't do these for Kyosho SuperTen. Maybe, it's also because the stock HPI Super isn't so great, thus there's a market for these -- and on the other hand Kyosho provides quite nice hop-ups itself. Anyway, I think there would be a market Wolpack SuperTen hop-ups, too. Lately I saw an article about one Wolfpack powered HPI in R/C Car mag, it was unbelievebly cool.

BTW, unfortunately I haven't been able to find RC Nitro latest issue here, so I haven't seen yet the Off-Road Super made by Nolan. Can you find pics from the net?

Mika

10-26-2002, 02:03 PM

Found some pics from past summer of my 4-strokes, which I've lately converted back to 2-strokes (maybe I can switch back some day again) with .15 O.S. engines, CV-Hyper and RX.

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/slide0001_image012.jpg http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/slide0001_image014.jpg

Since removing the four-strokes from my cars, I've been thinking to create a new, double FS-26S-C engine powered vehicle. What car do you think would suit the best ? I've been thinking a truck, which should provide enough space on the chassis for the installation, but I don't know these cars well enough .. suggestions? Then, I need to find one used.. Thanks.

thx0258

10-26-2002, 04:56 PM

Not one, but TWO 4-stroke FW04's!? Mika, you really know how too live! And your idea of installing the two motors on one vehicle sounds GREAT! As far as which vehicle to use, I think the T-Maxx might make a good platform for such a conversion. There's already alot of room on the chassis, but if you needed more, all you would have to do is "add on" where it's needed with readily available aluminum stock. Theres tons of T-Maxx's on Ebay all the time. That would truly be a "MONSTER" truck!

evilGearhead

10-26-2002, 05:08 PM

hey, mika would you be willing to sell one of those 4-stroke setups? i like it, but i dont want to spend that much money for the new stuff..
i mean, you know how much stuff i can do to my veteq for $500

frank13

10-26-2002, 07:22 PM

thanks for the info,,

so can you guys tell me thedifferences between the brown car and the newer one in black , ,and does any one haeva cheap cheap cheap two speed for sale ,

thanks in advance

Skribble

10-27-2002, 02:16 AM

I think SuperTen could handle the power with it's shaft drive, but I don't think it's worth of doing. I mean, with .21 size engines you'll get so much power that you will have hard times keeping the car on track. In addition, you need to do quite a lot of mods to the car to fit one. (They did that once in RCNitro for HPI Super Nitro, maybe you could check that article). .21 size engines suit best to cars that are made for it, that is 1/8 on-road racing cars (not touring). Well, I'm just going to use the car for Street Racing & Insane speed runs (60+MPH) .. Currently, I'm researching 1/8 Rally Game Cars but it seems like none of them are sold in the US .. To me, they look exactly like a 1/10 TC super-sized into 1/8.

http://carlosesteban.eresmas.net/nurnberg02256.jpg

Mika

10-27-2002, 02:47 AM

Originally posted by thx0258
Not one, but TWO 4-stroke FW04's!? Mika, you really know how too live! And your idea of installing the two motors on one vehicle sounds GREAT! As far as which vehicle to use, I think the T-Maxx might make a good platform for such a conversion. There's already alot of room on the chassis, but if you needed more, all you would have to do is "add on" where it's needed with readily available aluminum stock. Theres tons of T-Maxx's on Ebay all the time. That would truly be a "MONSTER" truck!

Yeah, it will be cool, thanks man! I've been thinking about T-Maxx, but I didn't find any used here (in Finland -- the market is dominated by Japanese cars, but lately also Asso and Losi). But maybe I could order a used one overseas (Ebay) and then get spares from Tower, don't know. Thanks for the tip, though THX -- any other good suggestions ;) It does NOT have to be a truck, if you think it will have enough room..

Mika

10-27-2002, 03:23 AM

Originally posted by evilGearhead
hey, mika would you be willing to sell one of those 4-stroke setups? i like it, but i dont want to spend that much money for the new stuff..
i mean, you know how much stuff i can do to my veteq for $500
I haven't really thought about that .. I was going to make that double-engine beast during winter time.. anyway, you can drop me an offer to mika.rinne@kolumbus.fi -- I've got all the conversion parts (for 2 cars) you need including kyosho 4-stroke pipe, special inwearable clucth shoes, cooling fan and 2-speed gearing. I've aloso got the viscous coupling, if interested.

Mika

10-27-2002, 03:27 AM

Originally posted by frank13
thanks for the info,,
so can you guys tell me thedifferences between the brown car and the newer one in black , ,and does any one haeva cheap cheap cheap two speed for sale ,
thanks in advance
Take a look at http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANJ0&P=7 for info. But you'll still lack the hard chassis and carbon deck, and the 2-speed included isn't as good as the hop-up one (FZW-56). It's more stylish than the original FW04, though! BTW, they falsely say that it's 1/10, but it's 1/9 to be exact (SuperSize).

Mika

10-27-2002, 03:45 AM

Originally posted by Skribble
Well, I'm just going to use the car for Street Racing & Insane speed runs (60+MPH) .. Currently, I'm researching 1/8 Rally Game Cars but it seems like none of them are sold in the US .. To me, they look exactly like a 1/10 TC super-sized into 1/8.

Okay, for speed runs .21 would be the thing. But for racing, I think it's just too much oversized. Interesting experiment though:cool:
Land Max 2 is a cool 1/8 rally game car (.21 engine) and it's been popular recently. TR-15 Rally also from Kyosho is a bit smaller and cheaper than LM2, but it has parts from SuperTen, which I believe makes it quite good car and has a lot of hop-up potential. With a good engine and 2-speed you might get it flying on dirt.

Mika

10-31-2002, 02:16 PM

Hey guys - where are you ??!! No replies whatsoever ..!
Has the winter taken a win over you or what.. I'm still looking for the monster but haven't found suitable on yet.

Did you see the great paint jobs on the other thread - wish I could get my supers to look like those..

http://www.proctorproductions.com/dc/RX7Blue03.jpg
It's a HPI micro.

BTW, rememeber Wolpack radicals for HPI Supers, I think this one:
http://www.uuworld.net/~reub/super.jpg
That one is from the HPI Super thread.

StevePond

11-01-2002, 09:32 PM

Those are mostly GPM parts. Here's a Wolfpack car... :D

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/images/snrs4/2_2.jpg

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/images/snrs4/3_1.jpg

ponky_wonky

11-01-2002, 10:09 PM

wo, that super nitro looks as if it ould over 100mph?
:D lol
wait a sec, it already has:eek:

nolanfarmer

11-04-2002, 08:26 PM

Yow! My favorite feature car. Definitely a huge motivator for me.
How could we make this car faster guys? The tinkerer in me just can't be contained on this one.:cool:

Mika

11-05-2002, 04:30 AM

Nolan, isn't 100mph fast enough..:D
Definitely nice HPIs.

nolanfarmer

11-05-2002, 10:25 AM

I would love to see Steve and Wolfpack resurrect this project. I beleve that 111 mph would be the mark to beat.

StevePond

11-07-2002, 10:48 PM

I have something else in mind with a higher target speed. I think I'm going for the FW-04. I need a shaft-drive car this time. :D

Mika

11-08-2002, 02:59 AM

GREAT, GREAT, GREAT!!
That would be so cool!

Dan H

11-09-2002, 09:02 PM

Hi, guys, I've finally registered but been reading up on this forum for a while. I own a 4 stroke FW04 by the way.

Anyways, my track has moved to a new location and is setup much larger. Having run on a smaller track where the 4 stroke really shines, the larger track made my FW04 get outpaced by the 2 strokes.

So...I was wondering what parts and header I need to do put a BB .15 in it. I have a spare NovaMega SX .15 lying around and could use the extra top end. Thanks, your help is greatly appreciated.

nolanfarmer

11-09-2002, 10:28 PM

Dan, did you install a two speed and are you using the Wildcat four stroke 20% fuel?

Dan H

11-09-2002, 10:33 PM

Yes, I have a 2 speed but I'm using regular Wildcat fuel. Does the 4 stroke fuel help a lot?

nolanfarmer

11-09-2002, 11:00 PM

Oh man, nobody seems to know that the wildcat fourstroke fuel makes the thing run a lot cooler. It smokes a lot but you get a lot more torque to make good use of that 2-speed. You will get much better top end speed.

Dan H

11-10-2002, 01:11 AM

Thanks! I'll have my LHS order some 4 stroke fuel for me and see how my top end goes. I hope its significat since I'm topping out a little more than halfway through the straights.

Mika

11-12-2002, 06:45 AM

Has anyone of you 4-stroke guys changed rings for the FS-26S-C ? It uses them, right?

Or any other parts like piston and sleeve ? In the end of the summer I felt I was loosing power from both of them. I wonder what kind of maintenace should I do.

nolanfarmer

11-12-2002, 09:45 AM

My first .26 was run hard on and off road and with a good part of its life using the regular 2-sroke fuel. It got damn hot a few times and started loosing power(or visa versa). To my amazement it only needed a new exhaust valve because its seat was not properly machined and it had beaten the edge down to paper thin. I also saw that that the exhaust valve spring was shorter than the other so it had lost a lot of its tension from being on the hot side of the head. I replaced both springs along with the one valve and its compression seems as good as my newer one.
This is one tough little motor.

Mika

11-12-2002, 01:54 PM

Thanks Nolan! I've played with the valves a bit, but saw (back then) no changes. I'll check it again. The changes in the power were not that drastic but enough to feel nevertheless, which I'd like to get rid of course.

StevePond

11-12-2002, 02:08 PM

Wouldn't it be cool to have optional camshafts?! :D

nolanfarmer

11-12-2002, 02:40 PM

Hey Steve!
Oh God! Four Stroke hop up parts like titanum headers, big bore kits, cam shafts, exhaust systems......................

I was looking at the new OS .30 airplane engine and it looks like you could use the cylinder, piston and rings, along with the new crankcase if the .26 one dosen't work.

Whadaya think?

Dan H

11-12-2002, 03:04 PM

Haven't changed a ring yet. Combined with a steel sleeve, these engine should last for a very long time. Still needs a good long break in though.

How long did you have your 4 stroke engine? Is your low end still as good but your top end is bad? If so, change the valve springs. One other guy I know with a 4 stroke had this problem. It will cause "floating" at high RPM's. This even happens to 1:1 cars if the valve springs need replacing.

Steve, I'd love a high profile cam. ;) Lose a little torque but gain more top end. Maybe some variable valve timing. Haha :D

StevePond

11-12-2002, 04:52 PM

Originally posted by nolanfarmer
I was looking at the new OS .30 airplane engine and it looks like you could use the cylinder, piston and rings, along with the new crankcase if the .26 one dosen't work.

Whadaya think?

I know both engines are built using the same basic engine block and other related parts, but I haven't seen a .30 yet to see if the parts are interchangeable. I'll check it out as soon as I see the engines side-by-side.

Dan, how bout a litte VTEC action on the FS engines?! :D ;)

Mika

11-13-2002, 04:11 PM

Originally posted by Dan H
Haven't changed a ring yet. Combined with a steel sleeve, these engine should last for a very long time. Still needs a good long break in though.

How long did you have your 4 stroke engine? Is your low end still as good but your top end is bad? If so, change the valve springs. One other guy I know with a 4 stroke had this problem. It will cause "floating" at high RPM's. This even happens to 1:1 cars if the valve springs need replacing.

Steve, I'd love a high profile cam. ;) Lose a little torque but gain more top end. Maybe some variable valve timing. Haha :D

Ok, thanks Dan. I run these around 5-6 months (I've got 2 of them in 2 cars). Yeah, I think it's the top-end. Nothing wrong with the low-end. Maybe I get some new springs from the Tower. But now I got .15 RX on the other, I'll test it first :D If you are cusrious, check my homepage (http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne)

Dan H

11-13-2002, 11:11 PM

Steve, keep us updated on the .30. :)

Mika, nice! :cool: BTW, can you tell me what parts and header I need to put a BB .15 in my FW04? Thanks!

Mika

11-14-2002, 05:44 AM

Thanks Dan. This is the .15 BB from Tower, right?
They say it uses the same mounting as O.S. CV. In fact, I've got the CV Hyper, which installation to FW04 was very strainghtforward - at least with the FZW-56 2-speed, which is a must-have for the FW04 anyway.
If you want to get hop-up parts to do that, you could use
- Kyosho 2-speed tranny FW-04 (FZW56)
- Kyosho Vespal Clutch Shoe SPG10
- Kyosho Special Tune Muffler Set SPGP10
- Kyosho Special Mount SPGP/Pure Ten
I think that's it. The names are the ones that Tower Hobbies use (I don't have the item codes here).

Dan H

11-17-2002, 07:05 PM

Sorry for the late reply. I'm talking about my big block .15 rear exhaust. Its a NovaMega SX .15.

I have the 2 speed tranny and vespel clutch upgrade already but when I check the special tuned pipe set, its for side exhaust. So all I need is the special engine mounts?

Mika

11-18-2002, 07:46 AM

Allright, BB translates to Big Block, I see.
I bought the Kyosho pipe and exhaust header/manifold for RX, I'm not sure if they're the best ones you can buy. Anyway Tower parts are:
- Kyosho Tuned Muffler III SuperTen GP (#39416)
- Kyosho Manifold OS .15RX/SuperTen GP (#39521)
And the engine mounts are (they also fit to Picco):
- Kyosho Engine Mount OS15RX/SPG10 (#39522)
These are also the items that Tower advises to use for the O.S. RX engine and Picco engines. Can't say if they fit to NovaMega.
Hope this helps!
BTW, I work for a US based company here in Finland, the headquarters is located is San Jose, Sunnyvale. I wish I could visit there sometime and see you guys running in the local track! Would be cool :cool:, ha!

Dan H

11-18-2002, 06:08 PM

Thanks! That list was much more helpful! :)

If you do happen to visit, stop by and check it out. ;) We have a good number of FW04's and SNRS4's in the Super10 class. Even 1 or 2 TGR's too.

Mika

11-19-2002, 03:53 AM

Dan, good! Let us how the installation went after you have it done. Thanks! Btw, I ordered the new valve springs for the FS.

heuerfan

11-20-2002, 01:10 PM

Hello everyone. Does anyone have a copy of the instructions for the cooling fan or know where i can download it? I would like to install it onto my FW04.

Thank you in advance.

Jimmy33

11-22-2002, 03:48 PM

Hi, I have a Superten now, and I am wondering is the two speed worth it, and how good is the car with a 4-stroke?

Dan H

11-22-2002, 04:32 PM

heuerfan, how bad do you need it? If you live in the U.S., I'd be more than happy to send a copy of the instructions to you next week.

Jimmy, 2 speeds are pretty much worth it on almost any nitro car. Can always use the extra speed. :) If you run on a small track, the 4 stroke will really shine. Its got gobs of low end torque, fuel efficient, and super reliable but not as much top end. But if you run on a parking lot or larger track, you'll benefit from the higher end 2 stroke engines out there.

Dan H

11-22-2002, 04:39 PM

BTW, has anyone modded their 4 strokes? I remember some 4 stroke guys telling me about this.

I didn't care much but when I took apart the 4 stroke engine head, I saw clearly what they meant. After removing the "neck" in between the carb and engine head, the intake hole on the head looks as if it can be enlarged to match the hole of the neck. Anyone try this?

I would imagine it would increase top end dramatically. And just to be safe, richen up the mixture for the increased air. I'm just more worried about the reliability and maybe idle quality. Anyways, I might try this soon.

nolanfarmer

11-22-2002, 05:31 PM

I am above 5000 ft elevation and enlarging ports tend to loose too much velosity in the thinner air and does strange things to the powerband. I learned this from building thumpers and superbike engines and found that the guys that left their ports alone, other than smoothing out the imperfections in them, had a more drivable package. But at sea level things may be another story. Please let me know how it works out.
I think I will try the cleaned up porting along with shaving the head for more compression on the new Four Stroke project car I am working on.
I bench tested a strait header exhaust yesterday with a place for a nipple brazed on about half way down the tube. The thing ran well and seemed much more powerful and responsive to trottle imputs. The best part was the sound it makes! There was also the weight savings to top it off. I'll keep everyone posted.

Nolan

Mika

11-27-2002, 05:39 PM

Guys, this goes a bit off-topic but what do you think about TR-15 Rally. I know it's not a such high-end rally car like LandMax II, but I find it interesting since it shares a lot of parts with SuperTen, including diffs, the drive train and most hop-ups like the 2-speed.

I've been thinking about getting one for testing and put the FS engine into it with the 2-speed. Anyone has experience on that ? What I'm worried is the engine mounting holes - they don't seem adjustable. I'm not quite sure if you can fit the FS plus 2-speed into it. Can anybody confirm ?

The 4-stroke would be perfect for off-road I think. The car is also a bit smaller than FW-04 being 1/10 and I think it might fly with the FS. Opinions? If I'm gonna get one, the first hop-up I get is the milled hard alu chassis instead of the stamped one. It should give enough rigidity for the 4-stroke (there's no upper deck in TR-15 Rally).

Jimmy33

11-28-2002, 08:29 AM

Mika n ice choise. I have a TR15 rally, and I love it. I also have a Landmax 2 but that is besides the point. The TR15 is comparitvly small, fast and much better than any ready set. I am still waiting for my 4 stroke fitting kit, but I have one for the Landmax and it is a JOY, so much better off road than the two stroke. However if you do tracks, go for the 2 stroke.

Happy rallying

james

Mika

11-29-2002, 01:41 PM

Okay, cool. Thanks Jimmy for your input. It definitely sounds that I need to get one.

Dan H

11-29-2002, 08:01 PM

Question for SteveP, I was looking an old RC Nitro review about the FW04 and Bob H mentioned about thinking of trying a 2 needle carb. Has he done this yet? I'd like to try this method and see how it works before I go grinding on the engine head.

Thanks!

Mika

11-30-2002, 03:27 AM

I also remember reading a similar story from another mag and although the 2-needle carb seemed to help quite a bit, the exact model that fit wasn't told. I'm also interested in this, good question.

StevePond

12-03-2002, 05:06 PM

Edit - I double checked, and the FW-04 already comes with the two-needle carb. The four-stroke engine comes with a single needle carb and requires modifications to the manifold to installed a 2-needle carb, but it certainly runs better. If you don't have a four stroke, then you already have a two-needle carb. :D

Dan H

12-05-2002, 03:54 PM

Do you know which 2 needle carb Bob used exactly for his 4 stroke?

Thanks Steve.

KIRK S. DECKER

12-10-2002, 12:26 AM

Im trying to find the kyosho 19 t steel pinion gear (39666-21L), but Tower hobbies lists it as "discontinued". If any of you could let me know where I could purchase this particular gear I would greatly appreciate it.

thank you in advance!

Mika

12-10-2002, 02:05 AM

39666-21L is the "Larger" pinion 21 size? Not 19. Which one you are trying to get? Anyway it seems these are both discontinued at Tower :(

nolanfarmer

12-10-2002, 06:35 AM

You can use a PC Pinion gear, #39724-19. It has the 10 mm fine thread but is only 4 mm thick so you need to have a 1x10 mm washer to shim it out. I assume you will use this on the four stroke along with a 25 tooth gear for second.
This is a steel gear and should last longer than the aluminum ones. It is also more economical.
You could also do a 20 and 26 tooth combination for really tall gearing or smaller tires.

Bandini

12-12-2002, 01:08 PM

I'm considering an FS26SC for a project, and I wonder if it's possible to use a standard flywheel with it.

I know the Kyosho conversion kit includes a flywheel, but I don't know the reason. Are these very different from standard flywheels?

I was hoping to use an MP-6 flywheel and clutch.

Mika

12-12-2002, 03:44 PM

I'm not a specialist when it comes to flywheels and clutches, but I **guess** it's because of the much better torque of the 4-stroke when compared to 2-stroke and therefore requires bigger components to be able to handle that. Moreover, you'll need bigger (taller?) gearing, too.

nolanfarmer

12-12-2002, 04:12 PM

I think Kyosho is the only one making flywheels and clutch parts for the FS26 and FS40. The flywheel I recieved with my Supeten II Four with the FS26 and the one I purchased at Tower for the FS 40 are steel, and they work well. The one Tower now sells for the FS26 Is a lightened aluminum one and I don,t recomend it for I have made aluminum ones and they are too light. The engine will not idle and the power is very abrupt.
The plastic clutch shoes that kyosho sells for the threaded two speed bell will also burn up quickly if your clutch slips much.

I am thinking of manufacturing flywheels, shoes, gears and such for the OS four strokes for I can see there may be a growing need.

What do you guys think?

Mika

12-12-2002, 04:28 PM

I guess there's a need really, Nolan. I also think the flywheels I use (came with 4-stroke conversion kit) are steel and they work well. I've also been using the special clutch shoe, FZW41, which has lasted very well (no wearing at all). I think it's a must-to-have for every FS owner, but it's VERY expensive :mad:

nolanfarmer

12-12-2002, 05:57 PM

Is that a Tower part #? A Vespal Clutch Shoe perhaps. I have an ideal material similar to what mip uses and is much cheaper. The four stroke does not need to slip the clutch as much so it lasts forever.

Bandini

12-12-2002, 06:36 PM

Thank you guys. So, I should look for a heavy flywheel. The one that came with the conversion is discontinued, I think.

I would have liked to be able to use the MP-6 sports flywheel (IF064), because it fits with the rest of the parts, but it doesn't look very heavy, does it?

As for the clutch, there are 3-piece aluminum shoes (IFW136) for the MP-7.5 that should be durable enough, but then you'd need a different flywheel. The MP-6 3-piece flywheel for OS (IFW051) may be a little heavier than stock, but definitely lighter than steel.

Racy (http://www.centralrc.co.jp/top-racy-0.html) makes 4-stroke conversions for the Tamiya TG series, so Kyosho are not all alone.

Mika

12-13-2002, 01:21 AM

Originally posted by nolanfarmer
Is that a Tower part #? A Vespal Clutch Shoe perhaps.

It's a Kyosho #number. Tower does not carry it for some reason, but it's a black shoe in colour and the material is something else than vespal. Seems a little bit softer than vespal and plastic ones, but it really isn't. Very long lasting fabriq.

I've got a picture of it, you can see the flywheel, too:
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/57.jpg

Mika

12-13-2002, 01:27 AM

Originally posted by Bandini
Racy (http://www.centralrc.co.jp/top-racy-0.html) makes 4-stroke conversions for the Tamiya TG series, so Kyosho are not all alone.

Racy's parts look good. Thanks for the tip (wish I could read the Japanese, too)!

Bandini

12-13-2002, 04:24 AM

Originally posted by Mika
wish I could read the Japanese, tooYou can. Try this link (http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/urltrurl?lp=ja_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.centralrc.co.jp%2Ftop-racy-0.html)!

Mika

12-13-2002, 06:21 AM

cool!

Bandini

12-13-2002, 08:03 AM

What about KC045? These are the clutch shoes I had in mind originally, and at least they have 'heavy duty' in the name. According to Tower; "This can be used on 1/10 scale kits if outside edge of the clutch shoes are sanded down to fit properly".

I've been looking for steel flywheels. Both the .26 and .40 conversion kits now ship with aluminum flywheels, and the only steel ones I can find are those for the Ultima. It seems like almost every Kyosho model uses its own unique flywheel and clutch that won't fit any other model. Very strange...

nolanfarmer

12-13-2002, 08:46 AM

I have a set of the KC045 shoes, I will look into it and get back to you.
The clutch shoes Mika pictured above looks like they were made from the same Material I have. I would use those if you can find them.

Bandini

12-13-2002, 09:15 AM

KC045 is a direct fit with the setup I was planning. This is not for a Superten, but for a project car.

I was planning to use;

IF064 flywheel mp-6 sports
GT020 pilot shaft 2-speed
KC045 clutch parts h/p
MA011 clutch bell 3-speed

These four parts fit together, but if the flywheel is too light and the clutch shoes too soft for the engine, I'm in a bit of trouble.

I could always get the 39673 vespal clutch shoes instead. The flywheel is worse.

nolanfarmer

12-13-2002, 12:25 PM

That looks like a great setup. 3 speeds.......Woohoo!
You may need to add some pins for weight in the shoes, but I think it will work well.
I wonder does the flywheel fit the FS26? It does look light. If you need some machining I may be able to help you.

Dan H

12-13-2002, 09:01 PM

Finally got some shots of my FW04...

Dan H

12-13-2002, 09:04 PM

Some pics before I hack it for cooling holes. :D

Dan H

12-13-2002, 09:06 PM

Last pic:

StevePond

12-20-2002, 11:39 PM

Very nice. Is that the HPI body?

Dan H

12-22-2002, 02:28 PM

Thanks. Yeah, its an HPI body, I had to cut the wheelbase slightly shorter though for the FW04.

Mika

12-28-2002, 05:04 AM

Just curious - Can you race with these 4-strokes anywhere ? I mean is there enough guys driving thumpers that makes this possible ? If you can race, maybe you could make a "race report" available either in the net or in a rc magazine possibly.

nolanfarmer

01-08-2003, 03:13 AM

Lets keep this thread going! I think we should work on this meeting of the four strokes............ If there ever is enough of us to make it worthwile.

I attached an improved picture of the .40 Superten Four II posted earlier.

Dan H

01-08-2003, 05:38 AM

Mika, there was a 4 stroke race in Japan. I know it was on HPI's Japan site for a while. Most of the field was FW04's and some SNRS4's.

Not too many people with 4 strokes at my track. Maybe 5-6 others but never all running at the same time. Some of them have retired their FW04's to concentrate on 1/10th's and the other half is putting big block .15's in their FW04's or so. At the last race, only me and one other had 4 strokes out with a total of 8 people on the field.

Mika

01-08-2003, 06:18 AM

In Japan, really? Sweet.
It's cool that you have this opportunity to run against each other with 4-strokes. I needed to build two of these cars in order to race with my bro-in-law, since no one else does here, too bad.
Lately I installed a big block to the other car, too, to race against 1/10 cars. Well, I can always switch back 4-stroke if I get bored with the 2-stroke. My other FW04 runs smaller 15-CV Hyper, which is not bad either. But now it's winter here and no running outside (wish I could be in Spain or CA :cool: ).
Yeah, Nolan, let's keep this alive! And that car (again) is really awesome. Any videos around there ? Put some info about the meeting, too!

lipm3

01-08-2003, 01:46 PM

i droped in a .26 stroker into my tc3 and i love it. it is stronger out of the corners and holeshot than my previous nova .12, i constantly place in the podium with this car. the conversion was so easy i was amazed, i want to try to put together a kit so others can experience the power of the thumper!!! let me know if you are interested the more we can get the less expensive the kit. now i am going to put a .40 into a kyosho 1:8 scale f1 car, i cannot wait!!!

nolanfarmer

01-08-2003, 06:51 PM

My friends don't want to race me any more. What's up with that?

This thing is serously fast.........1\8 scale buggy fast. And that was with a truck body. I havn't raced the thing with the buggy body yet. I don't have the heart to scratch it.

Dan H

01-08-2003, 06:59 PM

lipm3, nolan, all I have to say is WOW! :eek:

I'd love to see those run!

Mika

01-09-2003, 03:06 AM

Exactly! Great cars! Good work guys!

Babblefish

01-10-2003, 06:25 AM

Hi guys. I just built a FW04 for someone, so I thought I'd do some research on the car. Lots of good info here. Just wondering about something, why are you 4 stroke guys using a tuned pipe designed for a 2 stroke? 4 stroke engines don't require nor do they benefit from using such pipes since their valve/intake/exhaust systems are completely different. The RC airplane guys certainly don't use them in their 4 strokes. I would think the 2 stroke pipes would cause more back pressure for a 4 stroke since they are designed to push some of the exhaust back into the engine. This would significantly affect top end power since at higher rpms, this reverse (exhaust) pulse would really restrict exhaust flow.
As another example, look at full size race bikes - the 2 strokes use expansion chambers (tuned pipes) whereas the 4 strokes use low restriction mufflers or straight pipes. Just curious, maybe I'm missing something here?

Mika

01-10-2003, 10:46 AM

A good question. It's true that 4-strokes are very different from 2-strokes and do not require a similar (such sophisticated) exhaust system like you said. However, I've noticed that for some reason they also benefit tuned pipes and the performance is much better with a pipe than without. I don't know the reason but that's just the way it seems to be.

lipm3

01-10-2003, 10:41 PM

these expansion pipes on the 4 strokes are not at all tuned it has a different sound (one that my fellow racers fear when it is close to their car!!) it is just a single chamber. now i have bent a header to run without a chamber and i need to run it. i also found a Cross back plate that has cooling fins and a hole to attach the fuel tank pressure line to so now the straight pipe might just work.

nolanfarmer

01-11-2003, 12:59 AM

I have a long exhaust I made for a project car that I just sent Steve Pond so I can't show it here yet.
I didn't put it on the car for him because it seemed to have a glitch in the powerband. The sound was awesome and other than the glitch it ran and idled well. I have a place for a pressure nipple welded on about halfway up the tube.
I can't wait to test it.

Babblefish

01-11-2003, 05:17 AM

Originally posted by lipm3
these expansion pipes on the 4 strokes are not at all tuned it has a different sound (one that my fellow racers fear when it is close to their car!!) it is just a single chamber. now i have bent a header to run without a chamber and i need to run it. i also found a Cross back plate that has cooling fins and a hole to attach the fuel tank pressure line to so now the straight pipe might just work.

I used to race motorcross and worked on/modified 2 stroke engines for a few years, so I'm somewhat familiar with the smaller nitro engines. That pipe in the picture is a tuned pipe. It isn't what's inside that makes it tuned, it's the shape. All 2 stroke racing expansion chambers have nothing inside unless it's also designed to reduce noise. That is not to say a 4 stroke won't benefit from a tuned pipe, it's just that it doesn't need to be shaped like an expansion chamber. Adjusting the length and/or diameter of the exhaust pipe as a whole would make a bigger difference. If you're still not convinced, think about this - how do you think that pressure port on 2 stroke pipes work? The pipe was designed to have positive pressure inside during part of the engine's combustion cycle. It's this pressure that pressurizes your fuel tank and it's also this pressure that forces some of the unburnt air/fuel mixture back into the combustion chamber to create a sort of supercharger effect. Since a 4 stroke engine has an exhaust valve that seals off the cylinder, this positive pressure can only hurt exhaust flow at higher rpms, especially if the expansion chamber (pipe)/exhaust manifold tuning happens to create the most positive pressure just when the exhaust valve opens. This brings up another point - with 2 stroke engines, both exhaust and intake ports are open at the same time for a significant part of the crankshaft rotation. Because of this, there isn't a lot of suction going on in the carburetor's venturi thus the need for a pressure fitting in the fuel tank. This is where a well designed and setup expansion chamber and manifold helps. During the intake cycle, the exhaust system will help draw fuel through the venturi and into the engine. Some of this unburned air/fuel will end up in the expansion chamber as positive pressure. As the piston continues to rise, it closes off the intake port(s) first. It is at this point that that positive pressure built up inside the expansion chamber pushes some of the unburnt air/fuel back into the combustion chamber before the piston closes off the exhaust port on it's way up to the combustion phase - in a sense, acting like a supercharger. Lastly, because of the way a 4 stroke engine works, I don't think it's necessary for them to use a pressurized fuel tank. It all has to do with valve overlap/cam duration. In other words, a 4 stroke sucks better than a 2 stroke, i.e., developes greater venturi velocity. Sorry for all the words, but I just wanted to get people's brain neurons going.

Dan H

01-11-2003, 03:25 PM

Hey Babblefish, good to see you here!

Very informative discussion. I was usually taught in my autoshop class that headers usually made a bigger difference than exhaust pipes. Sydewynder has bought the expensive OS header that is larger in diameter. He claims it increased his top end slightly on his 4 stroke but he still runs a 2 stroke pipe as do I. I have yet to try this header. I usually thought since the exhaust valve is sealed off, the waves of the tuned pipe didn't play a big role but now I see otherwise after reading your post. I am still weary though to seal off the pressure line. I need to know how much of a vacuum the 4 stroke creates because I don't want my engine to run too lean. If the vacuum is great enough to bring in the correct and sufficient amount of fuel/air mixture without help of the pressure line, I would consider running a straight pipe.

But generally, as with 1:1 cars, a straight pipe will increase HP and top end but at the expense of some torque loss. I don't think this will affect us too much considering the size of the engine we run. Let me know what you think and correct me if I'm wrong. I'd love to discuss more about engine theory since I believe 4 strokes have a lot of potential.

lipm3

01-12-2003, 01:15 AM

thanks for the refresher course babble. i knew the reasoning for a tuned exhaust on a 2 stroke, what i was saying was that the pipe that came with my kit appears to be a single chamber pipe that i don't think has to much to do other than create a little backpressure (good for 4 strokes) and muffle the sound somewhat. i want to try headers of different inner diameters to see if there is a difference in performance. the problem is finding the tubing. let me ask these of ya'll, what do you think of wrapping the header like on full size cars with a header wrap to keep the heat in the pipe? cause before i wrapped the header the temp was on par with the glow plug temp, i wrapped it, now it is in the upper 300-lower 400f range but the engine temp is unchanged.

Babblefish

01-12-2003, 03:41 AM

Hiya Dan, long time no see. Hope you're doing well in your automotive class. Ever make it to RC Tech anymore?
I was just making a guess with the need for pressurizing the fuel tank since I don't have first hand knowledge of whether it's true for the little engines. I'm just going by what I know from working on lots of 1:1 engines starting from the "muscle car" era - am I aging myself?
In regards to my use of the term "pipe" for these little engines, it can mean "header(s)", exhaust manifold or whatever - it's just a matter of semantics. The term "headers" in full size cars is used mainly to differentiate between stock exhaust manifolds and performance manifolds or headers if you prefer. I think the term "headers" was coined decades ago by Hooker, Hedman or one of the other aftermarket exhaust manufacturers.
You can certainly tune a simple open pipe to suit the required power band you're looking for - smaller diameter and/or longer pipe for more torque or larger diameter and/or shorter pipe for more top end. Adding a muffler of some sort will affect things and must be taken into consideration. I always thought a short pipe that opens up into a megaphone shape would sound awsome and produce good top end power. It sure does for 4 stroke motorcycles and early VW engines. Might be a tad loud though...

lipm3 -
The wrapping of headers in full size cars is mainly done with race cars. The power gain is minimal, but in racing every little bit helps. Wrapping also reduces the heat radiated by the headers thereby keeping the engine, electricals and fuel system cooler. On the other hand, wrapping the headers on a street driven car is not a very good idea because unlike a purely race driven car, you're not removing the wrapping every so often or driving the car flat out all the time...or maybe you are?:eek: Because of this, moisture tends to develop and get trapped between the metal header and the wrapping. This will cause the header to rot out really fast, unless it's been Jet coated or is stainless, but even so, it'll still rot eventually. As far as wrapping our little cars, I don't know if it helps or not - guess it couldn't hurt. Oh, and I didn't mean to imply that you didn't know anything about tuned pipes, I was just talking to hear myself talk.:)

Mika

01-12-2003, 07:46 AM

So, what you are saying is that if I want to get more out of my FS-26S-C (more top speed), I should get as large diameter and short pipe as possible? Any suggestions? Good info guys all along, thanks! You guys are pros definitely :cool:

nolanfarmer

01-12-2003, 08:13 AM

Hi Mika. I have had some thoughts about the gearing on the four-stroke conversion for the Supertens.
There is only one choice here in the states in gears for this car. A 18 and 24 tooth pinion set. I am sure this is fine for a smaller track. But with my experience with the longer strait at a track I ran, it was at top speed and floating the valves well before the end.
I think a 19 and 25 tooth pinion is in order here. I made up a few of these and they are installed on my .40 Superten and the buggy pictured here. They were on a list at Tower once upon a time but never in their inventory. You would probably have to get them from Japan.
With 1\2 of the RPM's of the two stroke I believe the FS gearing is even more critical for optimum performance.
If the four stroke becomes more popular I am sure someone is bound to address these needs.

Dan H

01-12-2003, 12:36 PM

Babble, I still goto RC Tech when I get the chance although I am now going to college in San Jose. Since I'm on vacation, I think I'll check out some racing on Tuesday night hopefully if weather is still good. LMK if you're going. My autoshop class last year in highschool was mainly dealing with autorepair of engines and few car components. Although I'm more interested in engine theory and car handling. :)

nolan, I agree with you. With one gearing option, we don't have much. How about those 19/25 gears? I'm sure other 4 strokers would not mind buying a set from you if you can produce some extras. ;)

It would be nice if OS made a new cam with a different profile for more RPM's at the expense of torque or if Kyosho had the taller gears in the U.S. This will broaden our tunability range for all kinds of tracks.

Babblefish

01-12-2003, 03:32 PM

Originally posted by nolanfarmer
But with my experience with the longer strait at a track I ran, it was at top speed and floating the valves well before the end.

How about replacing the stock valve springs with something stiffer? I wonder if the springs from OS's bigger 4-strokes would work? Or you can try shimming the stock springs to increase the the tension - just don't go too far or you'll run into coil bind. Shimming is done in 1:1 cars all the time. Of course nothing is free, so with the increased tension, you'll reduce the valve train life a bit (including the cam)...but hey, speed costs money right?

Babblefish

01-12-2003, 03:39 PM

Originally posted by Mika
So, what you are saying is that if I want to get more out of my FS-26S-C (more top speed), I should get as large diameter and short pipe as possible? Any suggestions? Good info guys all along, thanks! You guys are pros definitely :cool:

A larger diameter would be good, but don't go too short or you'll lose too much low end. A little experimentation is required here. Maybe you can make-up a pipe that has a telescoping end so that you can easily adjust the length to find the best power band for you. Or you can use it to adjust the power for each individual track that you race on. If you try this, make the end that moves larger in diameter than the pipe that attaches to the engine; you'll get better flow.

nolanfarmer

01-12-2003, 05:44 PM

Welcome Mr. Babblefish, its great to have your expertise on this forum. This is getting really meaty now.
I haven't had this much fun since wrenching and roadracing along with riding my dirt bikes also ( two and four stroke).
I am remembering the titanium valve keepers that kept the valves from floating on the old inline four at the end of the one track with a really long strait.
A small amount of weight removal can make a difference there, and will also increase durability. There lies another potential aftermarket item.

nolanfarmer

01-12-2003, 05:56 PM

The headers from Kyosho are 6mm O.D. with an appropriate wall. I am bending my own quite easily with a $40.00 tubing bender from J&L Tools Inc. I am using a larger 1\4 diameter SS tube you can buy at any hobbie shop. This mod along with the larger O.S. silencer gave it a noticable HP increase along with better top speed. It would rev higher.
I flare the end with a long punch inserted and move in a circular motion.
I highly recomend this mod to anyone with the smaller header.

Babblefish

01-13-2003, 02:28 AM

Thanks for the info nolanfarmer. I knew these little engines had to respond just like their full sized counterparts. Just to make it easier for others to duplicate your success, what is the inside diameters of the stock Kyosho header and the SST pipe you used? Reason I ask is because 1/4" is only a knat's hair bigger than 6mm. Also, how long is your pipe? Are you using a pressure tap for the fuel tank?

And yeah, someone should manufacture some really teeny tiny valve spring keepers out of titanium to go along with some teeny tiny sodium filled SST valves. Actually, I'm almost serious - check out these websites if you're at all interested in miniature internal combustion engines.

http://baemclub.com/
http://www.evmes.org/
http://www.nvbackflow.com/engines/links.htm

I've seen some of these miniature engines in person and talked to the builders/designers - absolutely amazing what one can do in the garage. Check out this 1/4 scale flathead V8 engine; you have to hear it to believe it! :eek:
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/V8flatheadred.jpg

Or this unfinished supercharged V8. It's about 7" long.
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/V8supercharged.jpg

Mika

01-13-2003, 04:29 PM

Thanks Nolan. Maybe I should try that out.

I'm jumping a bit into another issue. Anyone of you guys have tried the Hi Ratio gears in the diffs, see Kyosho Steel Hi Ratio Finl12-37T (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAFN5), for higher top speed? Did those make a difference?

Or, what about the FZW67, see Kyosho Braking Center One-way FW-04 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDG6&P=7), is worth trying out ? I've got the ball diffs in front and stock diffs at rear.

nolanfarmer

01-13-2003, 05:20 PM

I am almost certain I have the 12\37 combo that came with the Superten Four II kit. The nice hardened set is the same and is the old SP10 designation. What is the tooth count on the FW04, I thought they were the same?

I haven't seen the braking oneway for the front driveline. I was a bit mad when I installed the old one way in my car and found the front brakes were gone. So I made my own (pictured above). You can see tha it has a new bulkhead and the disk is moved forward and rides on the hub with the one way bearing inside. I machined the gold anodized "gullwing" steering arms to clear everything.

I also didn't know they had a ball diff avalible.

nolanfarmer

01-13-2003, 05:32 PM

Wow Babble! And I thought I had a lot of time on my hands, lol.

Wait till you see my latest project, you will see what I mean.

I was wrong about the tubing. I had to come back and edit this post after finding the items and measuring instead of relying on memory. The 6mm SS tubing that comes with the kit is 1mm thick while the 1\4 is .75mm. The I.D's are almost the same. The 6mm is slightly larger.

lipm3

01-14-2003, 12:14 AM

i got a thought have you guys tried the gears for the tc3 nitro i believe that they go up to a 28 down to a 23 would those mesh with the kyosho ones? if not how about going to hpi gears those also might mesh. if one of those works that would be easier than fabin them. i think i have a 28/33 spur and it goes like a scalded monkey:D the only problem i have is the 2 speed, i cannot get the shift point right. i either do not get 2nd or i think it starts in 2nd, but i'll get it when the weather clears.:rolleyes:

Dan H

01-14-2003, 01:28 AM

I took a look at the NTC3 gears but they don't look like they are going to work. The pitch is different.

nolanfarmer

01-14-2003, 08:28 AM

My FS buggy's gears are HPI's meshed with the Kyosho pitched ones I produced. If you can drill and tap the fine thread into the HPI spinon gears to fit the Kyosho clutch bell you might have something.

Mika

01-14-2003, 12:55 PM

Originally posted by nolanfarmer
I am almost certain I have the 12\37 combo that came with the Superten Four II kit. The nice hardened set is the same and is the old SP10 designation. What is the tooth count on the FW04, I thought they were the same?

I haven't seen the braking oneway for the front driveline. I was a bit mad when I installed the old one way in my car and found the front brakes were gone. So I made my own (pictured above). You can see tha it has a new bulkhead and the disk is moved forward and rides on the hub with the one way bearing inside. I machined the gold anodized "gullwing" steering arms to clear everything.

I also didn't know they had a ball diff avalible.

Hi,
I don't know about the count of the stock ones, but I'm sure it's less than the Hi Ratio teeth count. The hardened set is another option. Here's the stock
diff case (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU227), Hi Ratio steel ones look definitely better! But quite an expensive hop-up, again.

The new one way sounds good, because they say that it allows breaking with all four wheels. Maybe I should try this out and purchase it, it just feels so expensive (over $40), too.

Yes, they make ball diffs and they are really nice in front, but they require constant cleaning and re-greasing, which can be a pain. You need take the whole front into pieces for that. I think it has improved handling because it can be set very stiff depending on track. At rear I use stock ones filled with heavy silicone oil. I think they are good enough at rear (actually they work nicely).

Btw, cannot see the image.

nolanfarmer

01-14-2003, 01:26 PM

Hi Mika.
It looks like the pinion has 11 teeth, so the high ratio set would be a good start. An extra tooth here will increase the runout conciderably. This could be the reason the car does not do well at the faster tracks with the FS and the gearing you have. Mine has the higher raito and was still geared to low for any long strait. Then I would use a 18\24 combo for tight tracks and we need to come up with the 19\25 or more for the fast stuff.
I calculated the top speed on my Superten at 44 mph at redline with the 24t pinion to a 37t 2nd gear. I think there could be another 5-6 mph with a stock .26.

Mika

01-14-2003, 02:25 PM

Okay Nolan, that 19/25 sounds good. I'll get back to you on this tomorrow. Maybe I really should consider getting the Hi Ratio gears for diffs (man, another hundred bucks!).

Terry

01-20-2003, 11:00 PM

I have had my FW04 for three years now and just want to pass on a couple of ideas. For really strong braking get a HPI rs4 composite fiber brake rotor, take the stock fw04 rotor and put in ontop of the hpi one. trace the outside diameter onto the hpi one and then you can sand it down on a belt sander to match up with your original one. Now take off the "fiber" pads on the brake calipers and use the bare metal against the new hpi fiber disc. A standard servo will give you more than enough stopping power. After awhile the pad will get tarnished from the heat, just take it off and lightly sand it to renew the disc.

Also I have been using a hpi flywheel with a mip hpi rs4 clutch.For this to work all you have to do is take your exacto and cut some of the front of the clutch off and it will match up perfectly. Just use a ruler or calipers to measure and your all set.

For tires use front rims all around with hpi c 10 - 30 for the ultimate grip. I have also had good luck with Kyosho K-Zero 25r slicks when there is decent traction.

my $.02

nolanfarmer

01-20-2003, 11:09 PM

Thanks Terry, yes those Kyosho tires are not the stickiest.

I'd like to pass on the fact that Tower now has the 19\25 tooth gears to fit the 2-speed.

Sydewynder

01-21-2003, 02:12 AM

Originally posted by Dan H
Babble, I still goto RC Tech when I get the chance although I am now going to college in San Jose. Since I'm on vacation, I think I'll check out some racing on Tuesday night hopefully if weather is still good. LMK if you're going. My autoshop class last year in highschool was mainly dealing with autorepair of engines and few car components. Although I'm more interested in engine theory and car handling. :)

nolan, I agree with you. With one gearing option, we don't have much. How about those 19/25 gears? I'm sure other 4 strokers would not mind buying a set from you if you can produce some extras. ;)

It would be nice if OS made a new cam with a different profile for more RPM's at the expense of torque or if Kyosho had the taller gears in the U.S. This will broaden our tunability range for all kinds of tracks.

Dan the problem with higher rpms in the 4 stroke isn't the cam. It's the valve float you'll get at those rpms. What is needed is upgrading the valvetrain components. Babble has already mention stiffer springs or shimming it, but you'll have problems with the strength of the stock pushrods and cam lob wear.

For those looking for different gearing sets, try to find Form Racing 4 stroke stuff. Form Racing makes a conversion kit for the superten and FW04 and as a matter of fact is the OEM to Kyosho for their kits. They have more gearing options.

Babble, I've seen a TMaxx 4 stroke (.26) conversion running a straight "header" no pipe. Was not inpressed with the lowend.

I have a couple of questions for everyone.

1) Do any of you have problems with inconsistent fuel feed with the FW04 tanks? Does you cap o-ring expand and not seat properly when you close the cap?

2) Those that have the hardened gear set. Did you find the flat spots cut into the outdrive cup shafts where cut too deep? When you slipped them into the diff case holes, did the o-rings in the case sit where the flat spot is?

Thanks.

Dan H

01-21-2003, 02:49 AM

Syde, about time you registered! ;) So the valve springs are the problem? I've also looked into other valve springs from the FS series engine and it seems like the "C" "Car" version we have already has the harder ones. Guess we're stuck with what we've got. :(

I'll also second Terry's comments on the HPI C10-30 slicks. I'm running those all around and they hook up great on almost any surface. I use the stock K-Zero's for just messing around.

Sydewynder

01-21-2003, 04:10 AM

Originally posted by Dan H
Syde, about time you registered! ;) So the valve springs are the problem? I've also looked into other valve springs from the FS series engine and it seems like the "C" "Car" version we have already has the harder ones. Guess we're stuck with what we've got. :(

I'll also second Terry's comments on the HPI C10-30 slicks. I'm running those all around and they hook up great on almost any surface. I use the stock K-Zero's for just messing around.

In regards to the valve springs, yes OS knew float would be an issue and that's why we have the C version with stiffer springs. I just don't know how much more rpms these stiffer ones can take till the valves float again. Also remember that in the 4 stroke you have many more rotating and reciprocating parts than a 2 stroke and these will limit the top rpm you can achieve.

As for finally registering, if you look at my registration date, you'll find that I'm over a year older than you so show some respect. :p :D

How would you like to run some foams? ;)

Dan H

01-21-2003, 01:37 PM

Or should I say, "about time you posted!" :p Actually, I've registered when the RCCA forum first started under the name "NitroBoy," but forgot my password. :rolleyes:

Don't think I'll run foams but who makes foams for our cars anyways?

nolanfarmer

01-21-2003, 02:10 PM

OK...........I'm not going crazy, I did have some 1\4' thin wall tubing and made a header with it. It took a while but I found a source for the 1\4' x .020 and .016 wall Stainless steel 304 tubing. It was hard to find someone who would do less than a $1000.00 minimum.
I will order some when I have the money.

Mika

01-25-2003, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by Sydewynder
I have a couple of questions for everyone.

1) Do any of you have problems with inconsistent fuel feed with the FW04 tanks? Does you cap o-ring expand and not seat properly when you close the cap?

2) Those that have the hardened gear set. Did you find the flat spots cut into the outdrive cup shafts where cut too deep? When you slipped them into the diff case holes, did the o-rings in the case sit where the flat spot is?

Thanks.

1) No. I've got to FW04's and neither has this problem. Cars are 2 years old and they show no signs of such fault.

2) I only have stock and ball diffs, so can't say, sorry

USA-1 Nitro guy

01-29-2003, 08:08 AM

I'm all excited, there was an FW-04 on the scratch & dent, box only damage, on Tower. It should be delivered today or tomorrow.

I currently have an old superten, which hopefully, with the info from this thread, will be turned into a 4-stroke superten.

Thanks for all the great information and keep the posts comming!

Mika

01-29-2003, 02:38 PM

That's great! In case you consider any hop-ups:
- engine and pipe. When stock are orn-out, get better ones from O.S. for example. You can also consider buying better pipe from Kyosho right-away
- 2-speed. Buy the FZW56, not the one that's included in the special edition these days
- front universals
Of course, there's a lot more, but that's something to start saving money for .. I also like radials instead of slicks. But maybe you already know all this since you own the previous Super. I'm glad that you've liked to hang around ;)

lipm3

02-06-2003, 01:33 AM

i think i hear taps being played for this thread!!!!

Mika

02-06-2003, 01:47 AM

sorry?!

nolanfarmer

02-06-2003, 08:36 AM

It's been doing the old death march while the bugle played on........lol

Four Strokes will never die. I think we just need spring to come along and maybe a new FS vehicle to look at.

Are you listening Steve?

lipm3

02-08-2003, 02:10 AM

you know what would be really kool is a 4stroke under the body f1 car. i am looking to convert my kyosho 1/8 nitro f1 into a 4stroke but i might hit a snag with the drivetrain. it is the only way that i can get more power without having to use a tuned piped 2 stroke, cause i cannot get a tuned pipe in there.

Mika

02-08-2003, 02:09 PM

Yes, why not, although it's a shame that a pipe won't fit. What model is that ? I guess Kyosho does not make these anymore, does it ? The chassis looks nice. How does it handle? Have you compared to a FW04 on the track ?

lipm3

02-09-2003, 01:42 AM

i just got it and wouldn't you know it the weather has been nothing but rain so i am going thru it so i can run it as soon as possible. kyosho stopped making this car in 1994 and i do not have a fw04 so i cannot give a comparo. my 4stroke is in a tc3 nitro.:D

Mika

02-09-2003, 05:05 AM

Oh yeah, that was you Limp3 who posted the picture of that nice NTC3 :cool:

BTW, I changed the springs for my FS, you can see the old and new spring below; the outer ones are worn (old) and the inner ones are new:
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/FS_springs.jpg
I expect a performance boost after changing them.

I also got my Murcielago body painted, although the image is not even close to quality of the pictures at HPI's site. The body itself sits nicely on FW04:
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/murcielago_back2_b.jpg

Mika

02-09-2003, 04:16 PM

I decided to post one more pic, hope you've got faster connections..
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/murcielago_side_b.jpg

Dan H

02-09-2003, 08:29 PM

Very sexy Lambo! Tell us how it handles... :cool:

Mika

02-10-2003, 01:12 AM

Thanks Dan! It takes a few months to find that out (still snowing here..).
BTW, that car uses O.S. RX BB engine (not FS with this car), which I haven't tried out yet either. It's gonna be interesting. The other Super uses FS with new springs. For that car I also ordered new gears (advised by Nolan) and hi ratio gears front and rear.
The windows for this Lambo are painted using window tint color and body itself is lemon yellow. Pretty nice in real although images are lousy.
If anyone needs ball diffs for Super, I can sell a pair of unused and a pair of slightly used ones with 2 packs of Kyosho ball diff grease relevantly cheap! mika.rinne@kolumbus.fi I don't need them 'cause I don't race.

Mika

02-13-2003, 02:42 PM

Here's what can be found under the hood of the "Lambo", the RX. The stinger looks a bit funny; that's to lengthen the stinger a bit to get outside the body (see the image above).
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/10.jpg

Mika

02-22-2003, 10:49 AM

Just installed Hi Ratio steel gears for my FS Super. Man, they are nicely machined, but very expensive, too. I expect a slight performance boost and better top speed along with new gearing:
36 + 25H = 61 / 42 + 19L = 61
The 2-stroker still runs stock gear diffs. I filled them (like the ones above) with 40000wt silicone in front and 10000wt rear and sealed with silicone sealant; oil hasn't sweeped out yet at least. In fact I refilled two gear diffs which still were 80% full of oil after running the whole season last year.

ben peters

02-23-2003, 12:55 PM

hello maybe u guys can help me .......i hope this is the right thread...wel anyway i have a Kyosho McLaren BMW F1 FW-04 w/GS-15R and while i drive it in my neighbr hood sometimes while i am doing some speed runs it sudden'y swerves to the one side......i was wondering if i put one of the stabilizers that i saw that fits on it would stop this problem...now the thing is completely stock and i would like to race it eventually, also is thee anywhere that i could get better body posts since i broke my front two while it swerved and hit a tire? ...so if the stabilizers would help should i buy both front and rear?.........and is there anything else that u would know of that i should upgrade to ur help would be greatfully apreciated thanks

p.s. i also forgot is there any other bodies that will fit this car since i read in the spec off of Tower it looks like it is bigger than othere cars

Mika

02-23-2003, 01:45 PM

This is the right thread Ben. Hmm..I wonder what "swerving" means.. is it flipping around or just sliding so that you loose control of the car. To the latter i.e. to get better traction the stabilizers help to some extent. Better yet is to set your diffs correctly - are you using stock gear diffs? If so, fill them with thick silicone fluid/oil and seal with silicone sealant (see my post above). Ball diffs are easier to adjust but need constant cleaning if you want to keep them in shape. The thing that makes a difference, too, is tires; try radials instead of slicks if running outside a track (parking place etc).
The best option part to get is the 2-speed; beware there's at least two types of 2-speeds from Kyosho, I would suggest getting the FZW56 which is the most expensive as well. Then, when the engine is more or less in it's end, get a better engine from OS or RB, for example, with a good tuned exhaust. More over, you could think about front universals and a good racing clutch (called vespal). Good shocks, possibly teflon, are also a invest; they keep the oil inside much better.
Last suggestion is to get the machined chassis instead of the stamped one (very expensive) and the carbon upper deck; they improve the rigidity of the chassis and make the car more stable.
About bodies: All Kyosho SuperTen (SPG10) bodies (see their site or Tower) fit and all 280WB HPI bodies (not 300WB!). Also Kyosho TR-15 rally seem to fit. I like the looks of new Murcielago from HPI (haven't tried on track yet), also I like Nissan Skyline from Kyosho or HPI (they seem handle good as well). Some people say Viper from HPI handles well like the NSX from Kyosho. McLaren from Kyosho seems to be too long for goog handling.