HEAT In my R/C

[roadrage]

I have a tamiya f103 with 35/93 gears, 14T handwound, 1400scr, deans, ball bearings, Novak dually ESC. A week ago when I ran my car, things were a little warm, A LITTLE WARM, not even close to hot. Today when I ran my car, everything got hot. Batteries, ESC, Motor.

The following variables have changed since I ran it last time, when It was much cooler:
1.) The Tempurature was 60, today it was 90 outside. I don't think this effected anything too much, becuase I was running in the shade, and in the evening.
2.) I ran on a tight track, didn't use full speed, and plenty of breaking. When I was running cooler before, it was full trottle all the time.
3.) This is what I'm thinking is causing all the heat. I have about 30 runs on this motor, and never cut the comm, or replaced brushes. I hate my LHS and therfore will never go there. Plus, a lathe will become obsolete once I go brushless. I don't go to tracks either... I'm preaty much stuck.

[Speedtester]

1.) The Tempurature was 60, today it was 90 outside. I don't think this effected anything too much, becuase I was running in the shade, and in the evening.

Road, the temp in the northeast just got about 30 degrees warmer, your definitally going to notice an increase in motor, battery and speed controll temp. Your motor might need new brushes soon but you should really do the Comm the same time.
Is everything on the car spinning free? No binding? It doesnt take much to make everything strain a little more.

[roadrage]

Nope, no binding. I guess I'll have to gear down for the summer. Darn, I though I could beat my friends and their nitros. O well. Maybe I can get an admin here or someone to cutt my comm for 5 dollars, 10? I don't know how much round shipping would be. I'll have to see if someone responds to my LHS in NJ thread. It's not like I ever reached top speed anyways:D I guess I won't lose anything if I gear down, maybe I'll see top speed.;)

[hpiguy]

The main cause of the huge heat difference was the driving style.

Constant full throttle driving over smooth wide open areas causes little amperage draw in a motor and batteries.

The on-off throttle and braking is what causes large amp spikes and draws off the ESC and the battery causing heat buildup. When the motor has to bring the car up to speed each time is when it draws most of the power. Once it's at speed the amp draw lets off considerably.

i.e. Superspeedway cars in Nascar tend to stay cooler than road course cars that are constantly in and out of the gasand on and off the brakes.

i.e. 2: Cruising down the interstate uses less gas and keeps the engine cooler than in town driving.

[roadrage]

Yes, I'm preaty sure the driving style was it, because that was a big difference in heat, and I was MUCH harder on the car than before.

[navspecwar]

hey, as for the cuttin the comm, get a comm pen from towerhobbies. i dont do RC enough to justify a lathe, so i got one. it does the trick, and my motor's back and better than ever (well, ok, maybe not better). but really, they're cheap, and they work fine. one tip tho, if you dont know your way around an electric motor, use a sharpie to mark the timing on the motor (ie, put a small line that goes from the endbell to the can, maybe 5mm long). that way, you dont have to deal with regauging(sp?) it. just my 2 cents