HPI Super Nitro Rs4

[C0NTENDER]

That's what I thought, Thanks

[Rookie Solara]

It is very boring here in Chicago when it is only 20 degree outside......so I add more and more stuff on the SNRS4 and I don't even know that help or not.........just want to share.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/rearbelt/P0003747.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/rearbelt/P0003748.JPG

[Poindexter]

Rookie, looks good! Where did you get that belt tensioner?

Also, do you, or anyone else here, know where I can get the GPM blade-type rear sway bars? I have a set on my RS4, but I don't know where to find them anymore. Here's a picture:

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/DSCF0009.JPG

[tl01boi]

i was thinking of trying the same thing on your car with the belt on the side of the car ,does it help at all and is it better i was thinkin of putting the belt to the side and gas tank in the middle

[Mika]

For comparison I posted picture below of my Kyosho Super, hope you guys are ok with that ;) It has the BB .15 OS RX, same engine that somebody had in his Tamiya (posted earlier). It would be indeed really cool to race against each other (HPI, Kyosho and Tamiya Supers).
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/10.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

The belt tensioner is from Wolfpack Radical.......I used that for my Impulse and Impact as a front belt tensioner...........I have no idea that rear belt tensioner will help or not, but for sure, that will elminated some chance of stripping belt or gears.

About the GPM blade type sway, you have to understand WHY blade type sway first.........Serpent Vector/Veteq used that because the car is heavy and big enough to use BLADE type, it is adjustable and beefy, but that is exactly the problem to something SMALLER like Impact, Impulse and now SNRS4.....the car is TOO SMALL to use blade at rear, even though you can FIND the smallest rod for the sway, it is ruin the whole rear suspension because it will be so stiff even though you turn them to the softest setting.

If you have to use, use the HPI standard rod, that is more then enough for SNRS4..........you dont see any Impulse or even IMPACT use that type of sway, even the new 705 is using the IMPACT rear rod sway bar.

[wilson_bryant]

will a 2 speed tany from a Nitro Racer 2 fit on my SN. if not, why not

[wilson_bryant]

which body's form tamiya and KYOSHO will fit on me super nitro?? :confused: i have been lookin on tower hobbies and cannot seen to find out which ones fit :(

[PCC]

The two-speed from the NRS4 will work in the SNRS4 but the gearing might be a bit tall.

The Bodies made for the Tamiya TGX/TGR have a 300mm wheelbase while the bodies made for the Kyosho FW04 are 280mm. The HPI Super can be built to 280mm or 300mm depending on how you set up the rear suspension.

[Mika]

Yes, although I would say that HPI has the best selection of bodies (I don't know about Tamiya but at least over Kyosho).
That's the reason I got Lambo for my Kyosho super. Kyosho bodies are however bit stronger (thicker lexan) and may last longer. They are also more expensive.

[Rookie Solara]

Kyosho bodies are the strongest and thickest in super class.....but also, it came with a MERCEDES price tag.

[Dropkicked]

Hey Rookie,

Where can i hook up with someone on the south side to help me out with my super. I've got the engine and everything coming in tuesday. I can handle all the basics,but I'm definitely no pro with on roads. BTW, I'm in lockport.


Thanks,

Drop

[quisanoj001]

dropkicked- you got ahold of a 2.5 for your super? QJ001

[Dropkicked]

Yeah I did Q. $140 complete. It's from a t-maxx so back to ebay with the header pipe and ez start.

I'm on the hunt for a new radio, and electronics but I'm gonna use a spare TQ3 setup just to get it moving.

Drop

[number 17]

I finally finshed building my Super I thought a I post a couple of pics. Hopefully the weather let's up and I get to test it out soon.

[number 17]

Heres another

[number 17]

Last one

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Hey Rookie,

Where can i hook up with someone on the south side to help me out with my super. I've got the engine and everything coming in tuesday. I can handle all the basics,but I'm definitely no pro with on roads. BTW, I'm in lockport.


Thanks,

Drop

Hey hey.....SOUTH SIDEEEEEEEEEEEE representing........LOL

Dude, did you know that our TRACK is just 15 minutes from where you live...? And I was in the meeting yesterday talking about this season schedules and rules near Homer Glenn (formerly knowns LOCKPORT)........anyhow, show up with what you got and MYSELF will hook you up about the REAL DEAL of RC racing, and don't worry about being ROOKIE, I was a ROOKIE (like 15 years ago though)........and I garantee you will enjoy your SNRS4 as much as mine, not to mention, I brought my SNRS4 about 4 months ago and my car is almost as new as yours, so we are on the same boat.

Check us out here and register.......

www.chicagorc.com

Then, go to here....

www.chicagolandrc.com

I also race at Hobbytown USA at Oakpark, I think that place is perfect for you, cause more NEWBIE over there then TINLEY (Tinley is more PRO area), but Tinley Park should be much closer then Oak Park for you....

If you want to know more about Chicago Racing.....go to this thread and tag along....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102197

Howard (Rookie Solara)

[show2ime]

those are the longest body posts i have ever seen!! ..

[number 17]

Originally posted by show2ime
those are the longest body posts i have ever seen!! ..

I'm not done yet dude. I just took a couple of pics.

[Dropkicked]

Ok Guys,

Try not to laugh at me too bad. :)

Here's my super complete with engine.

Stats: (this is the funny part)

Engine: Traxxas 2.5 from a tmaxx
Header: Traxxas 2.5 from a rustler
Pipe: CVEC .21 size
Pull Start: XTM .247
One Way Bearing: TRX .15
Steering servo: Cirrus CS-60 (this thing is shot)
Throttle servo: Traxxas 2018
Radio/Receiver: Traxxas TQ3
Body: Came with the car, it WAS flourescent yellow and orange. With a little elbow grease it looks like the 3rd pic.

http://www.dropkicked.net/images/rcbods/super1.jpg http://www.dropkicked.net/images/rcbods/super2.jpg
http://www.dropkicked.net/images/rcbods/vette3.jpg

Now please keep in mind this is my first real venture into on-road/touring cars, and the fact that I'm laid off and paying for my toys selling Air Filters, and other rc car stuff on ebay.

So far $$$ invested

Car: $116
Engine: $140 - the parts i'm selling on ebay (~$50)
Header: $20

The rest was stuff I already had, so I've got what, maybe $250 in this heap so far. :)

Now I need to hook up with some of you guys to teach this old dog some new tricks. Christ, the last time I raced was with an original RC10, and that was when (this is for chicago guys) Don's in glenwood had a track (bout 15 years ago.

Ok, just go ahead and laugh at me,

Drop

[Rookie Solara]

Don......Don Jones? Or Don from Radio Active.......? That must be a long long time.........RC10 elect buggy......well, you are in the right patch, we are all OLD school here trying new stuff.

Well, we should have a good turn out this season with Super Nitro.....especially in TINLEY Park, you will have a chance to race and learn from the Chicago HPI Challenge Champion at his own track, and see how many times he will lap us......(hee hee)

But again, you'll learn a lot there and HTOP.

More pics of my SNRS4......total invested, less then $250.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/airfilter/P0003755.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/airfilter/P0003756.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/airfilter/P0003757.JPG

[Dropkicked]

Well, I just got through running it around a bit for break in. There's no way in hades I'm gonn a be racing this year. I can't control this thing for crap. I really need to get it on a hudy board, and get the suspension setup correctly.

I'm running it on the one lane road next to my house, and can barely keep it on the road. It's all over the place on throttle.

The good part is I'm pretty sure it's gonna cruise when I'm done, I just need to get the handling part down.

1 problem I have run into though is this traxxas integrated pilot shaft. It's short, really short. I'm running what I think is the original clutch bell, but I have 4 or 5 washers behind it, then a wierd lock washer/washer combination on the front. This was the only way I could get it to spin freely.



BTW Rookie, I was talking about Don's Hobby World in Glenwood. 183rd and halsted. I'd offer to meet ya in a parking lot somewhere to get some run around time, but I think your pretty far from me.


Drop

[Rookie Solara]

Typical TC problem, lots of HP and running everywhere........

And that is the ONLY REASON you have to come out and race, I am actually planning to RACE and define the best setting for btoh HTOP and Tinley park track for SNRS4 and NTC3........if you are not running on a track, you CANNOT set your car correctly, NEVER, and NEVER WILL.

Running on some parking lot is not tunning, that is bashing.....and you don't need a SNRS4 to do that job, $50 Radio shack one can do better.

Your cause of "running everywhere".........TOO COLD (no trackion)
Bad tires (those look like stocky......get some 33R or 20-22) shocks need to re-oil and play with the springs.

When ppl say HPI sucks........I really want to see them to TUNE one and race on the track, cause tunning a HPI car is NOT much easier then any TC.

About the engine.........sorry, running T_MAXXX engine on SNRS4.......you are on your own.

[show2ime]

I was jk man.....nice body and car btw

[popsracer]

Guys;

OK, I knew the 2.5 would fit in the Super with the single spd clutchbell, but I would like to install the Sirio .18 (POWER) and mate it with the HPI 2-spd. I think the Crankshaft is too short to do this. Second choice was a Sirio .15 (this has a standard crank) but it only comes a rotary carb (suck).
Third choice is the Fantom .15 Non-P/S, slide carb to replace my Picco .15SE, Novarossi slide carb (worn out)

Any Ideas, thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

No matter what OUTLAW engine that you are getting, you must have the wolfpack radical adjustable engine mount to mount those engine for any HPI cars, that is a not a option, its a must.

With the adjustable engine mount, you can run single and 2-speed on any engine........regarding engine, I would give that Sirio .18 a shot..........due to the good repetition of their .12 and .21 engine, I don't think this .18 will be anything worst then the other.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
No matter what OUTLAW engine that you are getting, you must have the wolfpack radical adjustable engine mount to mount those engine for any HPI cars, that is a not a option, its a must.

With the adjustable engine mount, you can run single and 2-speed on any engine........regarding engine, I would give that Sirio .18 a shot..........due to the good repetition of their .12 and .21 engine, I don't think this .18 will be anything worst then the other.

I was actually thinking the same thing. Giving the sirio .18 a go for my project speed super nitro.

[Dropkicked]

if the sirio .18 has the same shaft as the traxxas 2.5 you're going to have problems running a 2 speed. The shaft is too short, and the threads on the IPS are too big to just cut down the whaft.

If anyone has a work around for this Please let us know, because I would like to run a 2 speed in mine. Til then, I'm trying to figure something out.

Drop

Edit:

I just went back and read an e-mail from QUISANOJ001, and he said he IS running a 2-speed with the 2.5 engine. I will have to just go out and buy one and try. Does anyone have a nice close up of the 2 speed clutchbell?

[wilson_bryant]

i am new to this thread and i just wanted to tell everyone that i think the CVEC pipes are awousme to me (novice) it have given me alot more off the line punch and some more top speed. but what are the must have hopups for the SN besides a new engine??

wilson

sorry i cant spell

[popsracer]

I saw something on the Trinity website that said the standard crankshaft from the .15 fits, but that is a very expensive option just to run the .18
I've got a Fantom .15 on order now and hopefully it will have the power that I am looking for. The Sirio would still be better though.

Anyone found a decent way to increase rear toe-in on the Super Nitros ? I'd like to end up with 3 to 4 degrees total in the rear. I feel that this is HPI's biggest flaw with it's Nitro cars. Not enough rear toe-in availible.

[Rookie Solara]

With 3-4 degree toe ata rear, you will have a hard time to get a straight line capability. The most I did on rear is 2.5 degree on my Serpents and NTC3.....SNRS4 stock setting are just enough, try your camber/shock setting to increase rear trackion.

Well, you mightl see that happen on HPI new chassis - R40.

[quisanoj001]

dropkicked-the reason I told you that I had to buy the GPM motor mounts is that I have the wolfpack engine mounts, and they do not work with the traxxas 2.5. the wolfpack mounts are for putting a big block engine into the super,the 2.5 is a small block. holes on the engine case don't match. I even tried flipping it over but that doesn't work either. I tried using normal small block fixed engine mounts, but with the 2 speed clutch bell on, it won't line up. if you match up the gears on the clutchbell with the spurs, the holes for the mounts won't line up. you would have to drill the chassis. the holes would be in between the existing holes. that is why I got the GPM adjustable mount so that I could slide the entire engine forward so that the gears could line up correctly and still be securely mounted to the chassis.

[quisanoj001]

here is a pic of the GPM mounts,another thing to do that I did after is to shave off the lip on the chassis's edge.it prevents the mounts from sitting flush on the main chassis. use a dremel or file to do this. it shouldn't compromise any of the chassis stiffness. updated the car with a few items after racing it,put updated OFNA tank in,diff tuning springs in the front and back.added rear sway bar,changed shock and spring settings. and trimmed the header to bring the powerband up faster.these are older pics, will try to show updated pics with the clutchbell assy and flywheel.

[Dropkicked]

I noticed a few of the guys on this thread have the front shocks laying down. Are you using a different shock mount, or just mounting to the bulkhead with standoffs?

[dc]

The shock are layed down for the BMW V12 and Toyota GT1 bodies or simular bodyies. HPI sends a differant diff cover to mount the shocks ther

[Dropkicked]

ahhh, ok, I thought it was for smoother ride.

[Rookie Solara]

The more you laydown the front shocks, the more front trackion that you will get......I did all the testing on my Impulse PRO with totall 12 settings and figured that out..........when you have the shock stands up, pushing big time

I recommanded ppl do that just to learn WHY do we lay those shock down....great learn process.

[wilson_bryant]

as for my shocks what Wt. oil should i use and does it really matter the type of piston that is in your shock:confused:

i was looking at Associated 50-70 wt oil would that work alright

[Rookie Solara]

The damper has a lot of things to do with the performance of your SNRS4, but if you don't care or don't even want to try, then use 70 (thicker oil) up front and lighter oil (50) at rear.

Don't forget to figure out the right springs to use, if you are using HPI springs, good luck, I think they have just 24 different setting for you to figure out.

[wilson_bryant]

thanks i am planin on gettin some sprins next time i have some money i just spent it all on a upper deck and a air filter.

[number 17]

Can someone tell me what I can do to lower my ride height? Currently the lowest I can get my car is 10mm front and rear. I have adjustable shocks and they are adjusted all the way out. Do I need to change to 27mm shocks?

Also should I use droop on this car I don't see anything in the manuel or the website suggesting if droop should be used.

Thanks,

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by number 17
Can someone tell me what I can do to lower my ride height? Currently the lowest I can get my car is 10mm front and rear. I have adjustable shocks and they are adjusted all the way out. Do I need to change to 27mm shocks?

Also should I use droop on this car I don't see anything in the manuel or the website suggesting if droop should be used.

Thanks,

Yes, you have to use a SHORTER shock if you want to lower then the HPI spec.......I use Serpent Impulse PRO shocks and they are fine, not as low as my NTC3, but I think they are good enough.

About the droops, yes, you can do that like typical touring car does, but I have no idea what spec to tell you....I just let is droop for like 1-2mm each.

[number 17]

Cool thanks. I am driving a 4x4 right now.

[Rookie Solara]

I forgot one thing, you might not need to change shocks, you might just need a shorter springs.......my Serpent shocks came with FRONT and REAR springs and they are 1/4" difference.

However, I have to use all REAR for my SNRS4 in order to get some ground clearence, otherwise, I am running a pan-car.

[number 17]

Right now I am using the shocks from my RS4 3 which are 29mm. I am going to get a set of 27mm and 25mm and see if that makes a difference. I figure that should drop it down some. As it is now the only way I can go is up, it is as low as it can get.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by number 17
Right now I am using the shocks from my RS4 3 which are 29mm. I am going to get a set of 27mm and 25mm and see if that makes a difference. I figure that should drop it down some. As it is now the only way I can go is up, it is as low as it can get.

Bolink makes these great spacers that I have used to shorten my shocks. They go on the inside of the shock body on the shock shaft. The spacer limits the travel, thus making the shock shorter.

[Dropkicked]

a short piece of fuel line on the inside works as well

[popsracer]

quisanoj001;

Could you E-Mail me with what you did to install the HPI 2spd clutchbell on the Traxxas 2.5 Crankshaft. I REALLY want a Sirio .18 for my Super.
I have 25+ years as a Maintenance Mechanic/Machinist so I should be able to figure it out if you give me the basics. (Special parts, part #'s)

Thanks, I owe you one.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by number 17
Can someone tell me what I can do to lower my ride height? Currently the lowest I can get my car is 10mm front and rear. I have adjustable shocks and they are adjusted all the way out. Do I need to change to 27mm shocks?

Also should I use droop on this car I don't see anything in the manuel or the website suggesting if droop should be used.

Thanks,

I'm using the 29mm HPI springs F/R and no spacers inside the shocks. My ride height is about 5mm F/R, Droop is 2mm Front and 4-5mm in the Rear. Droop is set with 4mm set screws that go in the arms. Remove all of the spring preload clips. Adjust the Shock mounting positions on the arms and rear tower to get lower. Then adjust shock length to fine tune Droop and ride height, with the Droop (down travel) screws for the final Droop adjustment.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
With 3-4 degree toe ata rear, you will have a hard time to get a straight line capability. The most I did on rear is 2.5 degree on my Serpents and NTC3.....SNRS4 stock setting are just enough, try your camber/shock setting to increase rear traction.

I only run Rubber on my Super and race mostly on low/poor traction parking lot tracks. 2 degress rear toe just isn't enough. For a BIG permanent track 2 degs is fine, especially with Foams. If you've raced HPI Nitro cars for a while, you know that any more than 0.5 deg camber in the rear is a bad thing. This applies to the Super as well.

Thanks,

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by popsracer
I only run Rubber on my Super and race mostly on low/poor traction parking lot tracks. 2 degress rear toe just isn't enough. For a BIG permanent track 2 degs is fine, especially with Foams. If you've raced HPI Nitro cars for a while, you know that any more than 0.5 deg camber in the rear is a bad thing. This applies to the Super as well.

Thanks,

Thanks for the head up.......I will try all the setting on my SNRS4 this coming season, but now, I am very worry about the rear camber.......if HPI cars cannot even run on a -1 or more camber at rear, I will sell the car ASAP.........almost all my car run min. -1.5 camber at rear.........

I ran -1.5 front and -2.5 rear on camber. toe are 0 front and stock rear (-1.5 toe I think)

[popsracer]

I know that you did alot of modifications to puit the SG shaft engine in your Super, but I also thought you had big Foams on the car too. If your running Foams it should not be a problem.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by popsracer
I know that you did alot of modifications to puit the SG shaft engine in your Super, but I also thought you had big Foams on the car too. If your running Foams it should not be a problem.

No.....I totally understand you concern, I am not allow to run FOAM cause I am aimming to the CHALLENGE this year, so I have to use 33R and low-bounce insert for this season...........

Well, it is still too cold outside, I will let you know how the 2 degree rear camber works on my car.........beside the ENGINE mount modification, my SNRS4 is very much stock, except the Serpent Shocks....again, try not to be TOO OUTLAW looking on HPI Challenge.

[popsracer]

Rookie Solara;

You might want to scan the Challenge rules to see if the Serpent shock will be legal. HPI is very strict about what they allow on their cars for the race. So far Vegas is closest to me.
I recently tried the 27R's on a cold night race and they worked pretty good. Of course everyone else was running Foams on their 1/10th scales. I think that with 2 degrees Rear Camber the Rear end of the Car is going to step out in Mid-corner (from past experience) 1/2 Degs in the Rear is usually Ideal.

I posted a question and the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST.

My Fantom .15SE should be here by Monday. Trying something different this time. Hope it's got enough power for me.

Later,

[Rookie Solara]

Well, SNRS4 class in HPI Challenge is probably the most OPEN CLASS amount all the classes in HPI challenge, my Serpent Shocks are NO PERFORMANCE GAIN compare to HPI shocks.....also, SNRS4 class is modified class, as long as I am not using the Wolfpack belt revonfigeration platform or those pillow balls system, I am fine (actually, I send pics to HPI on HPI forum and they do approve that)

My only concern is my Associated/Wolfpack 2-speed hub modification, it is just a better 2-speed clutch system better then HPI, not going to make my car faster, but just shift better.....and so far, they didn't say anything

I am planning to go to the Michigan one, and I heard they are very straight on car inspection, but again, I have the single speed and all the stock parts for emergency restore (if that happen to me my car is way faster then the other).....

About foams, I do have several sets for local race, but again, running foams on any cars are like "who need setting"....foams can correct all kind of error or mistake about setting, for me, that won't help me to learn more about HPI car, again, I know I can only do "THAT MUCH" on HPI car (compared to all my Serpents and AE chassis), but I still have good faith on the SNRS4.

One thing I know......glueing rubber tyres SUCKS.

[popsracer]

Rookie Solara;

Gluing HPI and Pro-Line rubber tires is a pain. 1/10th Sorex tires mount and glue so nice it's almost fun. Really.

The reason I mentioned the SN Rally, is with the Nitro-3 shock towers, you now have the option of raising the Camber Link mounting positions and this seems to make the Nitro-3's handle MUCH better than the older Cars.This should equally as well on the SN Rally.
I devised a way to do it on the Nitro-2's and am testing the Mod on my Super Nitro. All I can say is both Cars handle better. Less problems with the Rear end being loose and a gain in overall steering too. But I don't think it would be legal for the HPI Challenge races as it involves re-drilling the inner Camber link mounting blocks.
I think on the SN Rally, it would be a matter of just bolting on the Nitro-3 shock towers and using shorter shocks to get 5mm ride height. If anything it should handle better than the Belt cars just because of the Camber link locations and raised roll centers.

[popsracer]

For me, ALL of the HPI cars that I've owned have NEVER liked more than 1/2 degree of Camber in the Front and Rear. For the best overall grip F/R, -0- deg Camber in the Front, -0- Front Toe and -1/2 deg Camber in the Rear. Any more and that end of the car becomes looser.
I have quite a few friends that raced HPI's for a few years also and they agree on the Camber settings. The newer shaft drive cars work good with a more normal Camber setting of -1 degs.

[popsracer]

Guys;

I just finished installing a new Fantom .15SE slide carb engine in my Super. This engine is Identical to the HPI SS engines in construction. It has revised porting and a Turbo Crank. Only thing is I had to go back to the P/S engine mounts and flywheel, to get the carb slide to clear the upper deck. Might be a good thing as I usually race on tracks that are less than Ideal in traction anymore.

[popsracer]

Guys;

I got to run a few tanks today through the new Fantom .15 that I installed in my Super. I had a hard time getting the head temperature above 200F as the break-in sheet recommends. BUT, I'm telling you that this Engine is Balistic. It feels faster than my Picco .15 ever was and even faster than the Rear Exhaust engines in my 1/10 cars. This was with rich break-in settings.

Going to race it this weekend, so well see how it fairs on the track. I don't think it is going to dissapoint me though.
Just gotta work on that Rear toe-in now to get some more rear bite. I know exactly how I'm going to do it. Just have to have a steady hand to avoid any excess slop. (it's a secret still)

If it works well, I'll post how I did it and some pics of the work and some pics of my Rear Camber link Mod for the Super too.

talk later.

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by popsracer

I posted a question and the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST.



Can I jump in here? You mentioned that you got a SNR and I got one too with the same set-up. I mean, on-road not off-road. I call mines a SNR RTR3, coz it is single speed for now - with a gearing of 18/52 and 15FE, slick tires(33R), HPI Graphite F/R Shock Tower and 1/10 shocks with travel limiters F/R from my Mini Nitro RS4, Green coil springs F/R - my ride height is 4-5mm or less. With this, it runs like its on rails - fun..fun..fun

Now I'm thinking of putting a Nitro3 two speed with 19/23 pinions, and it will a SNR Type SS after installing a 15SS. Are you running with a 2 Speed Tranny? Thanks!:)

[popsracer]

adlawoo;

I race, so a 2spd is mandatory.

Guy;

Got the new Fantom engine running in my Super. This engine is Balistic. I can honestly say, that I think it is the Most powerfull engine that I've ever owned. We'll see how it does on the racetrack tomorrow.

Popsracer.

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by popsracer
adlawoo;

I race, so a 2spd is mandatory.

Popsracer.

But which one are you running? The NMT's or the Nitro3's 2 speed and may I know please your gear set up......Thanks!:D

[popsracer]

I posted a question on the HPI forum about running the SN Rally with lowered towers and shorter shocks in the SN Modified class and Frank Mckinney said it was OK as long as I used HPI parts to do it. You could Probably use the Shock lengths and Shock towers from the Nitro-3 to get a decent ride height. Put an O.S. CVR .15 in it and that thing is going to be hooked up and FAST. I now think the Fantom .15 is faster.

Sorry, if you'd read further back in the thread you would have seen that I have the Belt Driven version of the Super Nitro. My post was a "What If" scenario because I think the Shaft Drive Cars handle much better than the belt driven ones.

Other than the gear ratios (which you can change), there should be no difference in the NMT and Nitro-3, 2spds. The Drive lines on all 3 Cars is almost identical.

[rc_king1]

What are your opions on HPI super tires? I am looking for spring and summer tires to use for this up and coming race season. How well do the 35R work in hot California weather? The track surface is paved not sealed and its pretty smooth. Most if not all the local racers (1/10th scale touring) are running foam tires with liitle complaint for tire wear. Another question is about HPI inserts for their tires. Do I want to use low bounce or just stick with the pro strips? Thanks for your time.

[quisanoj001]

I have been using the 33R tires with the firm insert strips. I went to get a set of the 35R tires but the shop was out.33R tires work great until the temps get to over 130-135 deg. thats when the 35R should work great. I use them on my 1/10th nitro and love them. I'm sure it should work with the supers also.

[Dropkicked]

I got the 2-speed in mine yesterday, and took it out today for some play at the local high schoold brand new parking lot. I'm having alot of trouble getting this thing to go in a straight line. If I get on the throttle it pulls pretty bad to one side, and the tires break loose pretty easily sending into kamikazee mode. I am really liking the car now and would like to get a setup board so I can try to get the suspension set properly. Problem is which one do I buy? Hudy 1/10th, or 1/8th? Or should I try to track down the integy ones that rookie solara posted.

Currently:

Engine: Traxxas 2.5 rear exhaust
Tires: foam 40mm rear, 36 mm front
Shock: HPI RS4 3ss
Springs: HPI Black progressives front and rear
Oil: 40 wt front and rear
Shock preload: 2mm front
Wheelbase: 300mm

as far as toe, camber, etc. everything is as close to zero as I can get without a setup board.

Any advice is greatly appreciated,

Drop



BTW: The traxxas engine rocks! I was out with another guy with a mostly stock super nitro, and he can't even come close to touching it. The set screw in the 2 speed backed out leaving me stuck in first, and I was smoking him both off the line, and top end with only first gear and him with a working 2 speed. :)

[popsracer]

Guys;

Is anyone going to give it up on what parts are needed to install the HPI 2spd clutchbell onto the Traxxas 2.5 or sirio 3.0??? Alot of of us would like to know how you did this. PLEASE!!!


Dropkicked;

I have the Integy 1/10th Set-up Gauges and they work OK on the Super. I use a piece of 1/4" Tempered glass for my Set-up board (that's probably 35 years old!)
The pulling to one side under power is caused by chassis/suspension tweak. Shock length uneven side to side, Droop uneven. There is more pressure on the opposite side that the car is pulling to. Usually the Rear of the Car is the culprit.
If the surface you are running on has any dirt or dust (even a little), Foams shouldn't be used.
Put a drop of Thread lock (Blue) on the 2spd adjustment screw, roll it between your fingers to remove the excess and reinstall the screw. this should keep it from backing out on it's own. DO NOT put the Thread lock down the screw hole for the obvious reasons.

How bout some pics of the 2.5 and 2spd installation???

[Dropkicked]

Popsracer, the 2-speed install on the 2.5 is actually really easy. All you need is OFNA part number 10099 (clutch shim kit). That will give you the proper shaft length. Look up the part number on tower, and you'll see. Someone said something along the lines of "you absolutely must use adjustable engine mounts". ummm, *cough* ******** *cough*. I'm using the stock mounts. I had to widen the mounting holes about 1/16" so it would mesh properly, and grind a little off the front of the forward engine mount, all of about 10 minutes of work. Adjustables will give you more play, but some careful dremeling works fine also.

As for the sirio .18, I think you're S.O.L. Robin from unlimited engineering had the crank on the sirio tapped so he could use a screw in the end of it and he says it works great but it also cost him $125+ to get it tapped. Keep in mind that the guy owns the company that makes the supermaxx parts and he doesn't even have the equipment to do it.

I'll get some pictures of the 2-speed setup up here tomorrow. I'm gonna do a complete tear down tomorrow to get all the crap from the parking lot off it anyway, so I'll get some detailed pics for ya.

Drop

[talon51]

I'm going to be getting a Super Nitro pretty soon in a trade, and I need to know what the part # is for the lowered shock and body mounts so I can use the BMW V12 body. Its coming with a 2 speed transmission, and other than that, its stock, I think. I'm gonna use it mainly as a parking lot racer, but I'm also gonna race it at the HPI challege, so I'm gonna throw in a Sirio .12 Outlaw in there. Its gonna be a screamer...I need the threaded crank right? I'd also like to fit the Nitro 3 clutch assembly on it so I don't have to worry about buying a whole load of clutchbells.
I'll let ya know how it turns out...

Later,
Talon

[popsracer]

Actually, the BMW LMR and the Toyota GT1 bodies COME with the mounts inside the package. As for a seperate PN, try the HPI website.
Would be interesting to know if the Nitro-3 gear spacing is compatable with the older Fixed pinion clutchbells.

Dropkicked;

It is my understanding that the Standard Crank from the Sirio .15 will fit the .18 engine. (saw this on the Trinity website) Has to be alot cheaper than $125 for a Crankshaft.
BTW, I thought the clutch mounting on the Shafts of the Sirio .18 and the TRX 2.5 was exactly the same. The Sirio is supposed to be a drop-in replacement.

Thanks,

[Dropkicked]

Popsracer,

The clutch mounting is supose to be exactly the same the only difference is that the 2.5 uses a screw in the end, and the sirio uses an e-clip. The sirio has an indentation in the end of the crank, so in most of the pictures it looks like it might be tapped but it is not. I have'nt gotten around to cleaning up the 2.5 yet, so no pics of the clutchbell install. I should be able to get it done tomorrow.

Drop

[talon51]

Yeah, I found that out last night when I was looking at bodies on Tower hobbies, thanks for the info. The gear spacing for the Nitro 3 transmission looks to be the same, or at least very close to the SN 2 speed. I'll post some pics of them to compare...
The Nitro 3 clutch:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/86038_2.jpg
and the old style clutchbells:
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/a791-2.jpg

Looks like they are almost exatly the same too me. Anyone else...

[popsracer]

talon51;

The MAJOR difference that I see is where the retaining Screw goes into the end of the Clutch Pilot Shaft. The one piece Bells have the screw at the end. On the Nitro-3 Bells, the screw is inset. Might need a different Pilot shaft for it to work. (a few $$) Everything else looks pretty close.

Let us know if you decide to do it.

[Dropkicked]

I don't think the inset screw will be a problem. That just tells me that you can use a 10mm pilot shaft instead of the longer one. I would think that that type of slutch setup would be perfect for the traxxas ips shaft, or any engine with a short pilot shaft. For a long shaft a you probably just have to throw several shims in there.

I'm gonna give this a shot. I want to see what my super will do with say 23-37 second gear :) If anyone want's to figure out speed, the engine i'm using claims 40,000+ rpms, and has been dynoed at over 31,000.

Drop

[talon51]

Dropkicked, dang what engine is that, I'm guessing it a competition .12 like an RB or somethign...

Forgot to ask before too, what is the stock 2 speed gearing on this car? Should I gear it down for a more powerful engine? Anything else I should know?

Later
Talon

[Dropkicked]

OK, here's the pics of the HPI 2-speed clutchbell on the Traxxas 2.5.


http://www.dropkicked.net/images/rcbods/2speed1.jpg
http://www.dropkicked.net/images/rcbods/2speed2.jpg

in order:

1. large washer from OFNA 10099

2. inside clutch bell:
HPI B070 bushing
Ball Bearing x3
HPI B070 bushing

3. large washer from OFNA 10099

4. small washer form OFNA 10099

5. 6.8mm spacer from OFNA 10099

6. 10mm hex screw from OFNA 10099

The reason for the 3 ball bearings is I accidentally crushed the hpi bearing. These are alot smoother anyway.


talon51,

the gearing for the super 2-speed is 13/44 16/41. The 2.5 pushes these gears with no problems at all. I am sure I could push the 18/37 easily.


Hope someone finds this useful,

Drop

[popsracer]

Dropkicked;

Thanks for the pics. Looks like the short 1-spd pilot shaft would work perfect with the Nitro-3 clutchbell. Just leave out the Ofna spacer.

Thanks, Popsracer

Going to try and run my Super this weekend with some Foams at a new Track that has Freshly layed Asphalt. Hopefully the traction will be good enough.

[talon51]

Thanks for the info...hopefully I can afford to put the Nitro 3 2spd clutchbell on there pretty soon, I'll let ya know how it turns out...anyway...
So many engine choices...I'm considering getting a Fantom .12 or .15, definitely slide carb, but I'm not sure as to whether its gonna be pullstart or not, I'm also considering getting a Sirio .12 Roar legal or outlaw, but I'm not sure yet. It might all come down to the money I can put up for the engine because I'm an umemployed college student. The Fantoms are pretty inexpensive, and make really good power, the Sirios are also amazingly cheap for engines with power in the SICK category, I also need a pipe for mine, probably and inline, so that kinda limits me to rear exhaust, unless I get a regular high performance pipe.... any recommendations or comments?

[popsracer]

The Novarossi (brand) EFRA Pipes make excellent power with a very wide powerband, but are expensive at $40-$45 usd.
I'm currently using an O-Donnell Pipe, very long diverging cone softens bottom end power with an increace in top end power. Perfect for low traction surfaces.

I also think that I'm going back to the HPI Racing Clutch shoes. The Kyosho clutch in my Car, hits too hard for the Low Traction conditions that I'm stuck racing on these days.

The Fantom .15 works really well in my Super so far, even with the Larger P/S flywheel installed.

[wilson_bryant]

i am sorry for chaging the subject but i have an anouncment to make. the msn group hpisuper nitros is now open and any one who has a super can join, there is a chat room and place to put pics of your super well see yah there

the site is http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros

[ntn324]

and for another off topic subject, it looks like HPI is planning to release an electric Super RS4, hopefully this will generate more interest in the Super class and thus more options overall for the super class
also, it looks like HPI finally decided to release a two shoe type two speed transmission clutch, its looks like its meant for their shaft cars though, maybe not, im not really sure, its not specifically stated i think
for more info, just go to HPI racing's Japan site
http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/

[popsracer]

I kinda doubt HPI will sent it over from Japan. The Super class is almost dead in the USA now. But one never knows. I have a Friend that works for HPI USA and I'll ask Him if he knows anything about it. (he wont talk about the R40) The shoe type clutch is currently being tested in the USA at local race tracks Only seen them for the Nitro-3's.
'Rookie Solara' has a 'Wolfpack Radical's' clutch type 2spd on his belt driven Super Nitro. Check a few pages back for a description of his car.

[Rookie Solara]

Yes, I do have the 2 shoes unit on my SNRS4, the pad is from AE and the nuts/housing is by Wolfgang........I think that is what 2-speed suppose to be, not like the HPI single blade design.

About the Super in elect......I really doubt that it would even work, for a bigger heavier car, NITRO is definitely the answer......elect motor just cannot make that BETTER, and in ASIA (not sure about Japan).......Super class is even more DEAD then in state.......at least this season in Chicago, we have quite a lot of SNRS4 then Serpent IMPACT.........I think like at least 10-15 SNRS4 on each TRACK......no comparison to 200mm TC, but the Super Class is still here in USA.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003360.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003363.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003364.JPG

[wilson_bryant]

ok i have three questions and cense you all own supers u should be able to anwser them:

1. my rear belt keeps getting nicks in it and i dont know what is causing it could it be rocks??

2. i got a fiber disk break in a trade and i am unableto put the metal pad, paper pad, break, paper pad and metal pad whe i go that way the screw hits the belt so i left out the last metal pad is that bad?

3. i just got a pair of powerline front shocks and the lime springs that came with the shocks make my car really low in the front is that normal?

[Dropkicked]

wilson

1. yes, your belt will get eaten up by rocks as will your pulleys. Rocks can also stop you dead in your tracks. Little teeny tiny ones too.

2. I would think that would not be good. But I have a robinson vented steel disc brake, so I can't help much on fixing it.

3. adjust the preload on the shocks. If they are threaded crank them till it's where you want it. If not put spacers in till it's where you want it.

I'm sure someone can give you some more info but..........

Hope this helps,

Drop

[Dropkicked]

BTW I can't believe how FREAKIN CLEAN Rookie Solara's super is. Has that thing been driven??

[wilson_bryant]

thanks i just put the stock springs back on they are threaded, ill try and adjust it alot, i have had a big rock ruin my front belt just a couple of days ago.

[popsracer]

Pebbles, bits of Broken glass can cause a LOT of damage to your Car.
I actually ruined an O.S. 12CVR from running in the street. We had just transplanted it into one of our Reflex's and were test driving in the street to adjust the 2spd. A large pebble got stuck between the Flywheel and the Chassis, and stopped the Motor Dead in it tracks. This eventually (a few weeks later) caused the engine to EAT a Rod bushing, sending brass pieces through the entire engine. The ONLY salvageable part was the Carb.

Moral, I try not to run my RACE Cars in the Street at all anymore.

The Fiber Brake disc must be used only with the Stock Metal pads by themselves. A Metal Brake disc would use Fiber pads glued the the Metal pads.

If you can't get the Ride Height and Droop correct with the shocks, you may have to increase the overall length, end to end.

[Dropkicked]

Are you guys all using universals, or have any of you built cvds for your supers? I'm having major problems with the (you guessed it) front left dogbone. No matter how much I shim it keeps wanting to pop out one way or the other, and keeps catching when i'm turning. Basically I want to know if they're worth the $30 for the universals.

Thanks,

Drop

[popsracer]

Ok Guys;

Here is a Picture with the New Fantom .15 installed:

[popsracer]

Guys;

Here are a couple of Pics, showing the Rear Camber Link Mod.

The Basics are to switch sides and flip over the upper Mounts, then re-drill to fit. Make a new Turnbuckle from a 4mm x 18mm set screw and mount the outer end in the upper hole as shown.

[popsracer]

Here is a Top View of the Mod:

[popsracer]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Are you guys all using universals, or have any of you built cvds for your supers? I'm having major problems with the (you guessed it) front left dogbone. No matter how much I shim it keeps wanting to pop out one way or the other, and keeps catching when i'm turning. Basically I want to know if they're worth the $30 for the universals.

Thanks, Drop

I have CVD's in the Rear and Dog Bones in the Front.

Make sure the Outdrives and Axles are not grooved, or they WILL pop out no matter what you do. Replace them if they are Grooved from the pins on the bones.
Put a few (2-3) Shock O-rings in the Outdrives and Axles to keep the Bones centered and from popping out.

I have all of the pieces to do the CVD's in the Front, just haven't got around to it yet.
The HPI Universals wear VERY quickly and create alot of slop in the Drivetrain. Haven't ran the CVD's very much, so the Jury's still out on them.

Hope I helped some,

[wilson_bryant]

thanks popsracer the super is my only car and i dont race. but now i have a new problem. i cant get it started, my glow plug is new, ingitor is charged, just replaced fuel lines. could it be my tank( the pump thing) i am getting to MAD:mad: at it and i really want to drive it, my mom was going to record me driving it:( and it is nice out. any help would be appreciated

[wilson_bryant]

oh yah i forgot that when i do get it started ill drive it for a little then it will juet die out of no where then i cant get it started:(

[popsracer]

wilson_bryant;

What Engine do you have?

How old (days/weeks/months) is the Engine in your Super Nitro?

How many Tanks of Fuel do you think have been run through it?

Sounds like one of 2 problems.

1) You have the High Speed needle set too lean and the Engine is overheating, then Vapor Locking at the Carburator.

2) The engine is simply worn out, and once it is warmed up, no longer has the compression to continue running.

[talon51]

Popsracer, are those foams?

[popsracer]

Originally posted by talon51
Popsracer, are those foams?

:D Yep, they sure are! :D

R/C-4-Less (http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/2/cat2.htm?492)

[talon51]

Those are so sweet!!! I gotta get me some...

[wilson_bryant]

oh sorry about that. it is the stock .15 FE with purple head. i got the car for X-Mas it only has alittle more than a gallon of traxxas 20% thorugh it.

ill try to richin it up tomarrow that ma be it is alittle more than 2 turns out on the high shpped (no low speed).:rolleyes:

i am going to get a .15 CV-X Hyper:cool: is that a good engine

oh yah after i run it for as long as it will stay running it seams like it has very little compression but when it cools it has more:confused:

[popsracer]

wilson_bryant;

There is a very simple way to check to see if the engine is worn out.

Loosen the 4 screws that hold the Cylinder Head on and remove it. With the Piston at the bottom of the cylinder, look for any Brass showing through the Nickle plating inside on the Cylinder walls. If there is Brass showing (it will usually be opposite the exhaust port) the Piston and Sleeve are worn or wearing out.
Reinstall the Head, Hold it level with your Thumb and gently bring the screws down evenly. Tighten them up in a criss-cross pattern very snug.

This is a VERY common problem people have with the HPI 15FE. They usually tend to lean the engine out more than they should to get decent power out of it and being a Nickle/Brass sleeve, it will wear VERY quickly at temperatures above 280_F.

You have a couple of choices.

HPI sells a Rebuilt/Upgrade kit for the 15FE, that comes with an ABC Piston ,Sleeve and Rod, Better Carb and Cylinder Head. The Kit is reasonably priced and comes in 3 stages and prices.

If you go the O.S. 15CVRX route, I have one in our T-Maxx and this is a VERY Powerful engine (great for the Super too), though on the Expensive side with the Pull-Start.

Here is the link to the Upgrade:HPI Speed Shop (http://www.hpiracing.com/buyhpi.htm)

[wilson_bryant]

i dont know if i want to spend that much on this engine.

and i am only getting the CV-X Hyper for 65 bucks a great deal.

[wilson_bryant]

update: i took apart my engine and the sleeve has no brass showing but.... the piston can be pushed up the sleeve most of the way it will stop about 1mm from the top of the sleve:eek: then with a little effort it will be flush with the top of the sleeve:(:eek:. i am pretty sure that this means the sleeve is worn:( and i need a new one:mad:, right :confused:

[Dropkicked]

yup, it sounds like your already leaning to a new engine, so i'd just use the piston and conrod as a keychain, and the rest as a paperweight. Sorry.

Drop

[wilson_bryant]

thats a good idea...a keychain. but now i have to wait till the end of the week to drive it again:( well thanks anyway

[popsracer]

wilson_bryant;

The Tightness with the Piston flush to the top of the sleeve is because the cylinder head sits there. The piston should feel that way about 1/4" from the top in a brand new engine.
Without any Brass showing on the sleeve, I would reassemble and try opening the needle a 1/8-1/4 turn (counter clockwise) and see if it runs cooler/longer.
Normally on the 15FE, they will run until enough of the Nickle plating is worn off to show the Brass of the sleeve.

One thing I neglected to mention is, just 1 run without an Air Filter can Destroy an engine. All it takes is a few seconds without a Filter on a dusty surface and the damage is done. This will show up on the Piston as Scratches, like it has been Sanded (and it has, by the dust).

[popsracer]

Guys;

Well so far no luck with the Foams on my Super. Couldn't get Foam Tires to work on my 1/10th either. Rubber tires worked great on our Reflex's, but I didn't bring the Rubbers for the Super to try them too.

Good news is I had plenty of time to do some Motor testing with my HPI Pro-3 and it was hooked-up!

Later, Steven (popsracer)

[Dropkicked]

well, your doin better than I am. I swear i'm never going to get this car to run the way i want it too. I ran it with rubber tires the other day, and they were better than my foams, but it's just one thing after another. /\ the aforementioned dogbone problem. If I can track down all the pieces I might build CVDs for the front tomorrow, but if not it's off to Al's for some universals. I've got the engine running great, and the 2-speed shifting just right, but handling is horrible. The steering slop is'nt helping anything either. Hopefully I can get it somewhat dialed in in time to get a thrashing by Rookie Solara, Walt and the rest at tinley.

Drop

[wilson_bryant]

thanks any way steven. i am just going to use this engine as a paper wt. and install the O.S.

and i tried to open the needles up to factory settings and that did not do anygood:rolleyes:

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
BTW I can't believe how FREAKIN CLEAN Rookie Solara's super is. Has that thing been driven??

That is a used SNRS4........and you knew we don't see 60 degrees untill the last couple of weeks, so it is NO RUN ZONE for my RC cars except Micros.......

Anyhow, use your rubbers, and then the foams, foams need to run on something 70 degree and higher, so I don't think you did have that luxury in Chicago from the last 6 months......

When you are at HTOP and Tinley, we will show you how to waste your money on tires........:D

[popsracer]

The HPI Universals wear and develop slop VERY quickly. Keep the joints lubed to help with the wear problem. The slop will cause the Car to pull under acceleration.

For the Steering slop, purchase a set of 'Rocket City' 3/16" Ball link kits and use a piece of threaded rod to connect. Use the RC links to replace the link wire in the Steering. Just don't use the Standoffs under the Balls as the linkage will hit the diff case.
This removes almost all of the Steering slop, lasts forever, ALL of my HPI's have had this done. Bearings and new RPM Ball cups take care of the rest.

Steven (popsracer)

[Dropkicked]

ok, LHS doesn't have the hpi universals. They do have everything I need to put together CVDs for the front. Are CVDs worth the $$$ compared to the HPI universals? I mean it's $30 for the universals, and $50 for cvds per pair.

Drop

[popsracer]

Dropkicked;

Unfortunately I do not have enough hours on mine to form an opinion as to which are better, stronger, etc.
The main reason I installed them, is the Car rolls more freely with CVD's or Universals and this gives smoother, faster corner speed. This is very noticeable on the 1/10th HPI's.
Never really had any problems with the Dog Bones.

WARNING: Do NOT use Aluminum CVD Bones or they will twist in half on a track with decent traction.

[Dropkicked]

Ok, I got the CVDs in. I ran into a couple of problems. 1 they wouldn't go together. The shaft that goes into the axle and excepts the set screw was unbelievably tight. a little time with some 1500 grit sand paper and that's fine. The other problem is that you can't use the rush outdrives with a front one-way. The outdrives used with the one way have a much smalleshaft. I threw some shims in so the outdrives stick out a little farther and all is well.

The results? Obviously I can't comment on durability, and we had some drizzle a little while ago and the road is slightly damp so I couldn't really go ripping around, but I did get a few minutes in. WOW! from my short run I could tell that the cvds are a huge improvement. turns way better and pulls alot less on throttle.

The weathers looking pretty bad for the rest of the week, but hopefully I can get some wheel time this weekend.

Drop

[tamiyajoe]

wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

[PCC]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

Biggest and baddest engine that does not need mods to install would be the 15CVR or a Picco 15 rear exhaust. There are bigger and faster engines that are an almost drop-in fit but there are some mods required to install them. These would be the Traxxas 2.5 and the Sirio 18.

Wolfpack radicals came out with a pillow-ball conversion for the Super.

[popsracer]

Guys;

Well I'm racing on Concrete this weekend so no Super for me.

Next day out (for the Super) will be on 04/06. Let you know how things go.

[number 17]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wats the biggest/fastest motor that can be put into the super? w/o mods, a direct fit motor. and is there a pivot ball suspension made for this car? or no?

I have a OS .15 cvr and it has plenty of power this motor will not disappoint you.

http://www.nitroworld.com/images/build_super26.jpg

http://www.nitroworld.com/images/bodyoff2.jpg

http://www.nitroworld.com/images/bodyoff.jpg

[popsracer]

Originally posted by number 17
I have a OS .15 cvr and it has plenty of power this motor will not disappoint you.

We have one (O.S. 15CVR) in our Maxx and it's a Rocket.

Number 17;

Nice Super, do you race it? I like the Threaded Shocks. (and everything else)

You can flip that 5 cell pack over and put the 3 cells on the bottom to lower the CG.
Use a piece of Servo Tape on top of the Pack before you snug it in with the Zip-tye. This will keep it from moving around.

popsracer

[number 17]

Originally posted by popsracer
We have one (O.S. 15CVR) in our Maxx and it's a Rocket.

Number 17;

Nice Super, do you race it? I like the Threaded Shocks. (and everything else)

You can flip that 5 cell pack over and put the 3 cells on the bottom to lower the CG.
Use a piece of Servo Tape on top of the Pack before you snug it in with the Zip-tye. This will keep it from moving around.

popsracer

Hey Popracer
I just got it over the winter and started putting it together slowly. The 15 came from my RS4 3 that I sold, piece of crap i'm still mad that I bought that car. I plan to race the super this year first race beginning of April.

Thanks for the battery pack tip I will try that.

[wilson_bryant]

ok i am planning on getting a 5 cell 6volt reciever battery....my question is will this battery fit in the battery place? it looks to be too big or is it just the was the picture was takin?

[number 17]

Originally posted by wilson_bryant
ok i am planning on getting a 5 cell 6volt reciever battery....my question is will this battery fit in the battery place? it looks to be too big or is it just the was the picture was takin?

That should fit.

[Dropkicked]

any 5 cell 2/3A pack will fit. I bought mine off ebay. Some guy was selling them for like $8. Works great, 1100 pack.

[Rookie Solara]

As long as they are 2/3A cells, 3 on top and 2 on the bottom, it should fit the SNRS4 receiver battery bay, I made mine, and works perfectly, but I use the stock radio plate (no carbon) so it can be bent a little and give me more space....

Try to get the 1100 mah batteries, it will give you more run time.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/P0003418.JPG

[wilson_bryant]

i am pretty sure that it will fit, but i am going to ask you any way. will this one fit it is a 1300mAh, i need to know soon because i am ordering tomarrow thanks


also come and join my new group at: http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros/ so far there is only 2 members, myself and rookie. but any one is welcome.

[Dropkicked]

go with the 5 cell hump pack. 4 cells are only going to give you around 4.8 volts, 5 cells will give you 6 volts. Don't sacrifice power for run time. 1100 packs are plenty.

just my .02

Drop

[wilson_bryant]

thanks.

hey rookie can you tell me how you made that throtol linkage, i am getting a slide carb with a o.s. engine and that looks neat.

[popsracer]

Guys;

Looks like we lost the last page of posts when the Board went down.


wilson_bryant;

There are 2 ways to do the slide carb linkage. On O.S. engines it usually fits better if the Slide opens to the Rear of the Car, but everything else will fit with the Slide opening to the Front. Just use a Straight Servo horn and a VERY short linkage. The throttle goes on the inside and the brake on the outside. Make sure to use some kind of throttle return device (spring/rubberband). That 1300 pack will NOT fit and they are only 4 cells. Just get a 5 cell receiver pack. Trinity and Orion have Top quality packs that work straight out of the package without any cycling needed.

[wilson_bryant]

thanks i ordered 2 1100 5 cell packs form i think orion they should be here this week along with my new engine i am so excited:D

[Striker]

Aside from the engine and the car, what am I going to need in order to make the MT-12 with SG shaft fit in the car with a two-speed? i.e., engine mounts, flywheels, etc... Thanks for your help.

[Dropkicked]

Rookie Solara would know exactly but I believe Engine mounts(wolfpack radicals or GPM adjustables) Flywheel, ofna clutch shim kit (part # 10099)

[Dropkicked]

OK,
My ongoing handling problems continue....

It's around 78 degrees here, and i'm getting really good traction with the foams. I am still having problems with it pulling like an SOB when i'm on throttle. Rolling on the throttle, as soon as the engine gets on the pipe it's over, it pulls hard to the right. I can't feel anything causing drag on the right or anything, and it tracks straight when it's coasting, or at really low throttle.

I'm baffled....

Drop

[popsracer]

Dropkicked;

Ok, here;s what I would do to try and correct the problem.

1) Take the REAR shocks off the Car and measure them eye to eye with a pair of Calipers (Digital is better). I set mine to no more than .001 difference per pair in length. Tighten/loosen the Shock end(s) to get them the same length.

2) Make sure that the Droop (Screws) is equal on both sides (REAR). Shock length is part of this, but the Super has the option of using Droop Screws also.

3) Spring preload must be the same on both sides to start with. Adjust preload to obtain about 6mm Ride Height. If you have clips, buy some of the very thin preload clips that HPI sells. (clear and smoke colored)

4) Put the Car on a Tweak Station (board) to see if both REAR tires have the same amount of pressure on them. If you set ALL of the previous items correctly and nothing is BENT or TWISTED, the Car should be fairly close.
Make very SMALL adjustments to the shock preload until the REAR is level on the Tweak Station.

You can also do all of this to the Front of the Car, but the REAR is what causes severe pulling under power. I am thinking you have a very LARGE difference in Shock length or Droop and this is causing your problem.

Hope this helps, popsracer

PS; I forgot to add that the more Power that you put into the Car, the more Critical set-up and Tweak become.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Striker
Aside from the engine and the car, what am I going to need in order to make the MT-12 with SG shaft fit in the car with a two-speed? i.e., engine mounts, flywheels, etc... Thanks for your help.

Please read the previous post ESPECIALLY Page 2 and after, I have pictures and notes about the mod.

[wilson_bryant]

HEY GUYS i got my new O.S. .15 CV-X today and droped it in to my super and that thing is HELLA FAST. it aint even in tune yet and it is sweet.

i also get my MT today so today was GREAT. i am debating on weather to put the O.S. in the MT or leave it in the Super. my bro wants it in the MT,
he says that cense i will be runnin it off road that i should put it in the MT, but i like speed.

well gots to get back to buildin

[wilson_bryant]

i am lookin in to gettin some MIP CVD's and i need to know is weather this car would be considered a narrow or wide car.

[Dropkicked]

Wilson,
MIP does not make cvds for the super. Narrows are for the 190 mm RS4, the wides for the 200 mm RS4. If you want CVDs for it you'll have to build them yourself, and they are not cheap. I have CVDs in the front on mine and they cost me $50+ to build. So if you want them all round it's gonna be over $100. HPI does make universals for it though and they are under $30 a pair (A521 front A522 rear). Here's a thread on hpi's site with CVD info (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=52373) . The abridged version is below.

MIP CVD Bone for Associated RC10 B2/B3 #1010 or Team Associated #9278 ( I have MIP1161 bones instead)
MIP MT Axle (Front) - #1071 or HPI #80817
MIP MT Axle (Rear) - #1072 or HPI #80818
MIP Coupling Kit - #1012

NOTE: The ends of the CVD Bones will sit right on the edge of the diff outdrive cups, so if you are using a powerful engine (1 hp or more) you may have trouble with the CVD getting damaged. You can use the longer #72133 Rush outdrives to avoid that problem.

Good Luck,

Drop

[wilson_bryant]

thanks, i dont think i want to build any for 100 bucks.

[ntn324]

wilson_bryant
if you want CVDs, order the parts from here
Great Lakes Hobbies (http://www.greatlakeshobbies.com)
their search function doesn't work but you still still be able to browse their site
for all the parts necessary to build the CVDs, it will end up costing around $60 or $70, slightly more expensive than buying HPI's universals
also, check out Wilson's MSN groud for pics and other stuff
http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros/
http://www.geocities.com/mikevn24/super.txt

[wilson_bryant]

thanks for the info on the CVD parts, by the way that is my group, you have a pretty nice car.

[compuatic]

hey guys i need help. i just built my new super and it handles like crap. i know i need sometime to set it up but need some advice. i am using a set of prebuilt aluminum shocks and they have 45wt in the front (i am using the lowered front shock mount) and the rear shocks have 65wt oil. i actually thought the rears are supposed to have lower wait but thats how they came. they supposedly came from a race tuned super. for tires i am using kyosho wide in the rear and narrow in the front. i have not actually tried the stock slicks yet. the problem is with the rear sliding out on any turn with decent speed. rear always loses grip and spins out. in the diffs i am using the standard hpi grease. any advice on getting the rear to hook up without loosing steering? i am really suspicious about the shock oil... now if i just get this car to handle like my tc3, that would be awesome. thanks in advance

[Rookie Solara]

Like I always tell others, if I give you a Ferrari 360 stick, go race against NY cab driver on the 5th avenue......what is the chance that you can beat them...? Almost none...

You have to have your OWN car.....you cannot transplant the TEAM DRIVER's cars items onto your car and expect it will ride like a champ.....some ppl like to drive a little drift, someone prefer OVER, someone like UNDER.....

Try this....thick oil up front (50) then (35) oil rear.....then, Damper setting....2 holes front and 4 rear (I don't recall HPI damper system, I use Serpent damper adjustable shocks).....harder springs up front, 2 step softer (vs front) at rear.

Camber, 0 or -1 (the most) front, - 2 rear....but someone told me HPI can ran like crap in -2 rear, but mine ran fine.

Toe....0 front and OEM setting rear, you cannot adjust that.

TIRES.....too many to choose from, you can to let me know you are running HPI rubber or foam first...

Again, HPI can be a good car, you just have to discover where is the problem and adjust properly.

[ntn324]

well, looks like HPI is also releasing a new body as well
most likely related with the release of the Super RS4
its #7516 Nissan 350Z Xanavi Nismo Body with 300mm wheelbase
its in the istructions for the new Super RS4

[ntn324]

heres a pic

[Raydee]

Can any of you guys tell me if a Super Nitro can run the Toyota or BMW style body with the GPM radio plate that uses the 120cc gas tank? Right now I am running a Alpha body and it's fine but I want to buy the Toyota body soon and I know it sits alot lower.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by RandyT
This is a Wolf Pack Radical :D IM ROLLING WITH A NOVAROSSI RACE 21 ENGINE THOSE FOAMIES WOULD ME OUT RANDY T.

[popsracer]

Guys;

I really can't see the advantage of using a Big Block in a Super (other than the COOL factor), when it is easy enough to overpower the Chassis with a good Small Block.

DUUMDUDE;

Try the R/C Rage adapters that let you use 1/8th scale Foams. They are expensive, but with that much Power, you're gonna need all the Tire you can get.

Raydee;

I don't see the 125cc Tank fittting on a BMW LMR body without a lot of hacking to clear the top of the Fuel Tank. The Toyota Body may fit OK with the enclosed cockpit design.

Hpi keeps releasing new bodies for the Super, but they are BASHING bodies that handle like Crap on a race track.

[Dropkicked]

No Way!!

I was just telling a buddy the other day i was going to try running narrow rs4 rear arms to fit 1/8 scale foams in the rear under the body. And RC Rage was nice enought to list all the parts I need to eliminate my experimenting. :)

BTW I think the wolfpack adaptors are cheaper than the RC Rage ones.

Drop

[Rookie Solara]

Please define "FIT" first....

About the GT-1 and V12 body w/oversize tank.......I have the Kyosho 125 tank and using the BMW V12 body.....you just have to cut the opening for the fuel tank....and the opening is just a little bigger then the cap and give some space for the pressure line to past thru......done. That is the reason I pick Bimmer over GT-1, GT-1 does not look good with the tank opening....and that's why most ppl use LOLA body over 962 in 235mm and 1/8th class.

And I take the V12 over GT-1 is because I can refuel the tank 100 times more easier then GT-1....YOU WANT THAT OPENING....cause we race more then 5 minutes, and maybe some 1 hour main.....easy access to the tank is the key.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/newbody/P0003681.JPG

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by RandyT
This is a Wolf Pack Radical :D YO RANDYT NICE CAR ! WHAT FOAM WHEELS ARE YOU USING ON THAT SUPER NITRO?

[RandyT]

Thanks. Those were Cross Foam Wheels, don't waste your time with them, they wore down only after a couple of days or maybe it was a couple of runs. Either way, they don't last.

After months of running the car 5 times a week, I finally got around to rebuilding the thing. I have pics but since its tax season I haven't gotten around to resizing them, I'll post them after it slows down.

[popsracer]

To be honest I have never tried the 125cc tank with the LMR body, but on my spare Upper Deck with the 125cc tank, the tanks sit higher than the 75cc HPI tank.
Right now I am using a 75cc Mugen tank, mounted underneath the deck.

Dropkicked & Rookie Solara;

Your cars always look way better than mine. :(

[ntn324]

for those of you running wide rubber tires in the rear, what inserts, if any are you using? the ones that come with the tires?

regarding 125cc fuel tanks, should be no problem like Rookie stated
and you might be able to mount from underneath liek Popsracer stated
heres a pic of mine
i could mount it from underneath if i were to cut away the little stump where the back of the tank screw goes
http://www.geocities.com/mikevn24/tank.txt

[RandyT]

Here's some pics after the rebuild.

[RandyT]

Another

[RandyT]

One more

[RandyT]

Last one

[poopie]

Saaweeettt

[Interstate]

Sorry to change the topic here but i'm desperate. Will the TRX 2.5 fit in the SNRS4 without modification? Will the gears line up properly? And is there an exaust header @ 90degrees to accomidate for the RS4's configuration?

[popsracer]

You know it really is a shame that with all the people who have Super Nitro's, not many actually race them.

How many of you guys have actually raced your Supers in some kind of organized racing.

I used to race mine regularly, (once, twice a month) but interest has wained at the local races and the one program that had perfect traction has closed. Since I bought my Reflex NT, I'm also spoiled because it is so easy to dial in to a track surface.
I'll tell you this, if Kyosho would make a Super Size based on the V1R, I'd buy one in a minute. (I doubt HPI will improve the design)

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by RandyT Are those adapters available anywhere you know of?
Another

[PCC]

Originally posted by popsracer
I'll tell you this, if Kyosho would make a Super Size based on the V1R, I'd buy one in a minute. (I doubt HPI will improve the design) And what's wrong with the existing FW04? It's a good, strong design that can take the abuse from a strong engine. My buddy has a bigblock .15 in his and it's a screamer.

[ALJR]

just thought i would share some pics of my project car.. hope you like, tell me what you think...

[ALJR]

front shot, no bumper

[ALJR]

oppps, double post..

guess ill attach one more

[ALJR]

i have more if any one is interested...

this is a shot of the rear

[RandyT]

The adapters on it now are available from Wolfpack Radicals, I had the RC Rage adapters but one of the rear ones stripped out, and I couldn't get a replacement, I think the guy closed down. Wolfpack ones, in my opinon are much better. Plus Wolfgang is really a great guy, super helpful.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by PCC
And what's wrong with the existing FW04? It's a good, strong design that can take the abuse from a strong engine. My buddy has a bigblock .15 in his and it's a screamer.

For racing it is Heavy and the Drivetrain has alot of mass so accelleration is not as strong as it could be and I personally am not a fan of shaft drive cars. Also like the HPI, it takes many hop-ups to make the car competitive.
For the HPI Super (which I own), the suspension geometery is less than ideal, lack of suspension adjustability (Rear Toe, Front Caster). Very flexable chassis structure without hop-ups. All of these things help fine tune a Car to a racing surface.

If you are just bashing around in the street or a parking lot, none of this would really matter. But for racing, you need every advantage you can get.

Question:
Has anyone RACED using the 'Ride' Super Size Tires and how well do they work on asphalt compared to the others?

Thanks,

[ntn324]

so I guess no one here has ever run wide rubber tires?

Popsracer
will you be at the Hobbypeople race in Escondido?
it seems like there's no turnout for the Supers at the recent races
if there is a good turnout, i might be there racing with Ride tires

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by ALJR
front shot, no bumper IS THAT A SUPER NITRO YOU HAVE THERE BUDDY?

[Dropkicked]

Well, it looks like we may see sirio .18 powered super nitros afterall. On Trinity's frontpage they have a picture of their NEW .18. It looks like it's the same as the t-maxx version but with a pullstart, threaded shaft, and rotary carb. Not sure if I'de want to pay the money for the engine, then shell out for the slide carb too, but someone might.

Drop

[popsracer]

Dropkicked;

Yes I saw that too (about the Sirio .18) and agree about the Carb and the Pullstart. The Fantom runs very well in my Super, so for now I'll be sticking with that.

ntn324;

Escondido is on my racing calender.
I was going to go to Camarillo tomorrow, but plans have changed and we are racing at La Mirada instead.
We could see if we can get enough people for Escondido to run a Super class. Mine just needs to be put on the Tweak Station and checked.
If anyone in the Southern California area would like to bring their Super's to the Hobby People Escondido race on May/17/03, post it here or on RC-Tech.net

Thanks, Steven (popsracer)

[Toyotatogo]

Wow, RandyT nice ride.....:D

So where do you run your super nitro at????

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by RandyT
The adapters on it now are available from Wolfpack Radicals, I had the RC Rage adapters but one of the rear ones stripped out, and I couldn't get a replacement, I think the guy closed down. Wolfpack ones, in my opinon are much better. Plus Wolfgang is really a great guy, super helpful.

RandyT, the car does look very nice. I wanted to see if you knew the part number for the adapters. Well I guess looking on his site would be a start :)

[Toyotatogo]

RandyT I see your running the SX21 Top Motor......... I'm running the newer SX21 Nova Mega EVO5MS same family both are engineered by novarossi........

Hey I wanna know where you run your cars??? :)

[C0NTENDER]

Ok RandyT,

which do you recommend, the ofna rim adapters or the serpent rim adapters.

[Toyotatogo]

Majority get the serpent wheel adaptors.... for the super nitros...

[Toyotatogo]

Well heres mine for all who haven't seen she ain't pretty but that's the cost of speed..... Clocked at 75mph with the motor not even leaned out yet... Can't wait to lean it out and see what happens next......

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=938805

[RandyT]

Toyotatogo, we usually run where ever we can, actually, lately its been in a parking lot in Torrance, but we were going out to Veteran Stadium in Long Beach. The only problem with there is that they always seem to have auto sales and shows there. I heard from someone that you can't run at the Forum anymore, is that true~? And the motor is a Top PT 21SP1, not the best motor out there but it still makes the car fly.

Contender, I've only had those two different Serpent Adapters, so sorry I wouldn't know about Ofna Adapters.

[Toyotatogo]

Go to the Great Western Fourm...... I go there every Sunday if and when ever possible......

It's not closed down I was up their today and some were running their r/c cars and stuff....

Sundays are the all rockin' trash talkin' days :D (Who got the best r/c setup and so on and so on.............................)

All in good fun we have sundays..... :)

[ntn324]

Originally posted by Interstate
Sorry to change the topic here but i'm desperate. Will the TRX 2.5 fit in the SNRS4 without modification? Will the gears line up properly? And is there an exaust header @ 90degrees to accomidate for the RS4's configuration?
check a few pages back
someone stuck a TRX 2.5 in their car
dont know exaclty what they had to do though

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
IS THAT A SUPER NITRO YOU HAVE THERE BUDDY?
looks like a Super Nitro Rally with .21 conversion and on-road use

[ALJR]

Originally posted by DUUMDUDE
IS THAT A SUPER NITRO YOU HAVE THERE BUDDY?

it started its life as a nmt..

it has super/rally a-arms w/ rs4-3 shock towers and shocks.

it has a .21 conversion dun to it and a 2spd (very tight fit). i was going for a top-speed car. wanted to see if i could get it over 80mph for starters... maybe go for the top speed record, but i may need a stronger motor, larger bell and 1/8th scale buggy tires to get a ratio that will take me past 100...

[Raydee]

Hey do you mind emailing me. I have a few questions about your Super Nitro!

Ray

Raptorflyer@hotmail.com

[popsracer]

Originally posted by popsracer

You know it really is a shame that with all the people who have Super Nitro's, not many actually race them.

How many of you guys have actually raced your Supers in some kind of organized racing?


What, NO ONE?!

[ntn324]

Originally posted by popsracer
What, NO ONE?!
well, i raced only once competively with my Super
but like you said earlier, its hard to get enough people to race with
it was at the last SoCal HPI challenge
placed 5th
and of course, i can give numerous excuses of why i did so poorly/could have done better

[Dropkicked]

I think you'll get alot more responses to that question in a couple months.

[Raydee]

Randy T, I guess I will just ask here! I was looking at RC Rage wheel adapters to run the 1/8 wide foams but he mentioned to me that you also need other parts to convert the rear end on the super to make it narrow for the wide tires to fit inside the Super bodies. Did you actually make the rear end narrow first before you put the conversion in? Do you have all the part numbers needed to narrow the rear end? Does the super handle much better this way? Will any 1/8th scale tires fit or just Serpent? Sorry for all the questions but I am really interested in the wide rear end conversion!!


Thanks
Ray

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by popsracer
What, NO ONE?!

The only action that my super sees is in races, I never use it for bashing.

[DUUMDUDE]

THESE CARS ARE NOT DESIGN FOR THAT SO STOP PLAYA HAITIN PEOPLE. LET SEE IF HPI IS SERIOUS ABOUT THIS RACE GAME OR NOT WHEN THEY BRING OUT THE V-40, I THINK THATS WHAT ITS CALLED. WILL SEE!

[PCC]

Originally posted by popsracer
For racing it is Heavy and the Drivetrain has alot of mass so accelleration is not as strong as it could be and I personally am not a fan of shaft drive cars. Also like the HPI, it takes many hop-ups to make the car competitive.
For the HPI Super (which I own), the suspension geometery is less than ideal, lack of suspension adjustability (Rear Toe, Front Caster). Very flexable chassis structure without hop-ups. All of these things help fine tune a Car to a racing surface.

If you are just bashing around in the street or a parking lot, none of this would really matter. But for racing, you need every advantage you can get.

The same friend who owns the FW04 has a Wolfpack conversion Super with a BB .15. Both cars are heavy and both cars do not flex. The FW04 has a handling advantage in this case. The Super I own is a bit flexible compared to the Wolfpack chassis but it's considerably lighter. I haven't ran my car against his because I stripped it down since he built his cars. Maybe I will rebuild my car and go up against his? What do you think? A mildly ported BB15 in a heavier car against a ported out 15SS in a lighter car?

[RandyT]

Raydee:

Sorry for the delay in response but I've been really busy at work and haven't had the time to look at the board. If you go to this site http://www.rcrage.com/ they have all the parts your need to convert the rear end. I used Dogbones instead of the Universals since I didn't feel like spending that kind of money for the Universal, but the dogbones that fit are for RS4 Sports 2, and I snap those things all the time. I use Wolfpack adapters, since my LHS couldn't get ahold of RCRage to get a replacement part for me that stripped out. I believe RCRage adapters fit all 1/8 scale tires. I run serpent tires, since they are easier to get, but I think the the narrow rear end is really for Proceed Tires. The offset on mugen, serpent, and proceed tires are different and with serpent rims, you will have trouble with the rims rubbing the shock mount.

Since we're just dragging the cars up and down a long parking lot it does what its suppose to do, which is get the power to the ground. The car when turning pushes very badly, I've tried using the Traxxas 20 tooth pulley on the front, but it rubbed on the middle bulkhead. I probably mess with it when I get some free time and try to improve the handling.

[Raydee]

Thanks for the response! 1 more question. If I use all the parts needed to shorten the rear end and buy the Wolfpack adapters can i still use Proceed wheels and tires. At my local hobby store it is way easier to ger proceed parts than Serpent!

[RandyT]

You'll have to ask Wolfgang that question. I've never seen Proceed Wheels, so I'm not sure what the slot pattern looks like on the inside of the wheel. Wolfgang's email address is WolfPR@aol.com He'll be more than happy to answer any of your questions on his adapters.

[Rookie Solara]

I think HPI discontinued the PROCEED a year ago......you can check with HPI site.

[supra528]

hey if anyone wants a sirio outlaw .12 r/e i got one... its the standard threaded shaft one... email me if ur interested... supra528@hotmail.com

[Raydee]

Will I have any problems installing a Picco 12 in my Super? Will the clutch and everything fit right on?

[popsracer]

Raydee;

Picco small blocks (.12-.15) will fit fine. Standard shaft engines are a straight drop-in.

For a SG shaft, someone has said that OFNA makes a clutch nut that allows all of the HPI parts to work. Don't know if it works with the 2spd though.

[PCC]

OFNA makes a clutch kit that allows you to install a SG shaft engine in a HPI. You will need the adjustable engine mounts as well since the flywheel and the entire assembly will move over about a quarter inch towards the spur gear assembly with this setup. The rest of the HPI parts should pretty much fit this setup but you will need to play with some shims to get the clutchbell to not rub nor sit so far out that you see the clutch.

Standard HPI flywheels will not slip over the threaded end of an SG shaft and if you drill this hole out larger then not enough threads are left showing for the clutchnut to thread onto it. Ask me how I know this...

[Rookie Solara]

See page 2-3 of this thread regarding installing SG engine on HPI cars, it required more stuff then what you think........

[Raydee]

Yeah it was just a Picco 12 and it dropped right in. I also used a paris ring pipe. Does anyone else use this pipe? Can you post a pic of how you mounted it?

[Raydee]

One more stupid question! If I use all the parts that RC Rage says to buy to shorten my rear end and buy the Wolfpack Serpent adapters along with the serpent wheels and tires will everything fit right without and problems? Did you notice any major difference between the serpent adapters from Wolfpack and the RC Rage adapters?

[RandyT]

I personally like the Wolfpack Adapters. Like I said before I switched to the Wolfpack Adapters because I stripped one the Rage rear adapters, and couldn't get a replacement. Wolfpack Adapters allows you to use your the lock nut that comes with the kit. In regards to it fitting all perfectly...it doesn't. Your going to have trouble with the rim rubbing against the shock mount. So what I do is use an exacto knife and trim the inside of the rim, but you will go through alot of those plastic shock mounts. I'm going to check this weekend on whether or not the adapters will work on Serpent 835 rear wheels, instead of 1/8 scale wheels.

[Raydee]

Yeah I was looking at the 1/10 scale serpent foams rims on ebay! Right now all I have in the car is a Picco 12 and it has a lack of take off power. Maybe with the 1/10 scale foams it will be perfect for my engine. Looking at your Super I don't see my little Picco turning those big tires too good. The only problem i can see with the 835 rear tires is that with the Super rear end narrowed then the tires might not be wide enough and won't look right under the body? IT looks by your picture that Serpent wheels are a bit wider than Proceed wheels also but I am only looking at pictures and comparing your Super to the Super on RC Rage's web page. I have emailed him about his adapters and using HPI rims and he didn't say anything about the wheels rubbing or anything. The only thing he said to me was I should get the graphite rear shock tower and bulkhead for added strength.

[RandyT]

I looked at the 835 tires yesterday and they won't fit on the adapters. I forgot your mentioned that you can get Proceed tires so the offset might be different and it won't rub. Unless you plan to get a bigger motor, and do just drag races, I wouldn't suggest doing the conversion.

[Raydee]

Yeah the whole point of me getting the adapters was to make the Super handle better than it does now but if the wide Rear wheels is only good for drag races then i will just stick to the stock wheels or even get some regular 2.2 foams for it. When I was racing it yesterday I noticed that it already pushes a little in turns so it must be way worse with the wide foams.

[Raydee]

Anybody have a pic of their Toyota GT1 bodies? I am looking to paint my new one and I need a few idea's. I am trying to get away from the normal red/black scheme! Don't worry I won't copy anyone's paint.

[DUUMDUDE]

Originally posted by Raydee
Anybody have a pic of their Toyota GT1 bodies? I am looking to paint my new one and I need a few idea's. I am trying to get away from the normal red/black scheme! Don't worry I won't copy anyone's paint. HOWS THIS?

[Raydee]

I kinda like the blue, it's different! I will post a pic of mine when it's done. I think I will try blue and flourescent green with a carbon fiber wing and sides. Ahhhhh my bodies never turn out good anyway!

[Raydee]

Hey has anybody tried the Powerline foam tires for the Super yet?

[rc_king1]

I hate the needle bearing that HPI recommends. Can someone tell me if I can use typical/normal sealed bearing like all the rest of the companies use? Thanks

[Just Nitro]

Hey has anybody tried the Powerline foam tires for the Super yet?

I have them for mine, but can't really comment on them as I haven't gotten them on a track yet. On my streets/parking lots they spin like mad, but have'nt worn too bad and seem durable.

I hate the needle bearing that HPI recommends. Can someone tell me if I can use typical/normal sealed bearing like all the rest of the companies use? Thanks

I used some bearings that I had laying around in mine. They are pretty thin, and I used 3 bearing. I believe they are 5x10 bearings. It works great.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by rc_king1
I hate the needle bearing that HPI recommends. Can someone tell me if I can use typical/normal sealed bearing like all the rest of the companies use? Thanks

Answer: Yes, but you will still have to maintain (Lube) them.

Just remove the needle bearing after every couple of Hours of runtime and RE-lube it. Any good automotive Grease should be fine. They EASILY will last a year or more without problems. In ALL of the years that I've raced HPI's, I only had to change (1) once and it was from lack of lubrication. Learned my lesson after that.

[Rookie Solara]

Where can you guys get the powerline foams.....? Online or local store...?

So far, I have seen foams from www.rc4less.com, they are quite expensive (almost $45 for 4)......but ppl told me they are pretty good....now i want to see what is the powerline foams look like before the handed out my hard earning $45.....(for $45 I can get 2 set of foams for 200mm TC)....

Thanks

[Raydee]

I bought mine from
http://www.racerhobbies.com/tires_powerline.shtml

$30 a set!

[PCC]

Originally posted by popsracer
I'll tell you this, if Kyosho would make a Super Size based on the V1R, I'd buy one in a minute. (I doubt HPI will improve the design)
Hate to break the news to you but...
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/events/hobyshow/2003shizuoka/k_31581.jpg
FW-05R

[popsracer]

PCC;

There has talk about this Car for some time on the R/C-Tech Board.
This is a shaft drive Version of the V1S.
Kyosho is also working on a Hybrid version of the V1RR that is still only in the design stages and this Car will retain the belt drive.

HPI on the other hand, has it's Hand's full with the developement of the Pro-4 and the Nitro R40, so it is doubtful a 2nd generation Super will be forthcoming anytime soon if at all.