HPI Super Nitro Rs4

[number11]

Anybody in this forum race in Seattle? Did anyone race with Eslroc last year and are you planning to race with them this year?

[Dropkicked]

RandyT,

How is the narrowed rear with serpent foams working out for you? I did the same thing, but ran into a major problem. The bottom ot the shocks (ball end, ball cup, anything else I could find) hit the inside of the rim when the suspension was compressed. I ended up MacGyvering the shocks in about a half inch on either side to get it to work. So now my shocks are much more vertical than before.

Last 2 races today I ended up doing 3 wheel motion through every high speed turn. Inside front wheel up in the air big time. Actually flipped a couple times. MAN that will piss you off. But I'm happy I just got into the car a little while ago, and I have 1 broken rear bulkhead, and a worn ball cup. Much Much better than last time out.

[RandyT]

Dropkicked:

I too have that problem with the inside of the rim rubbing on the lower shock. I changed to a ball joint and Racer 2 shock mount, but still have to trim the inside of the rim with an exacto knife. Are you using the HPI Universals~? Since I have a .21 I didn't know if it would hold up, they're kind of expensive to replace if I kept snapping them. So I used I believe it's Sport 2 dogbones, you can use those, they're alittle bit long but they work. The graphite shock towers help since it has more adjustments holes. The best way to correct the rubbing is to find someone with a Tire Truer, my LHS guys said all you have to do is hold an exacto knife to the tire and trim off the inside edge. I don't have a truer so I've never tried it. Hope this helps.

[Speed De]

Hi guys,

I see that you have heavily modified your Supers so I am wondering if you can help me with my concern. I am wondering if a centax clutch will fit my SN ,line up with the two speed and the flywheel will be able to be turned from the starter box?

[Dropkicked]

I'm sure there is a centax style somewhere that'll fit just fine, but can't tell you who make one.


Anyone run sway bars on their super? I'm wondering if the HPI ones are any good, or just for the lighter cars. 3 wheel motion sucks.

[RandyT]

I was working on my new Serpent 835 today so I looked at the Centax that came with it. The gears on the serpent are larger than the super's, it still fits but not fully on one of the gears. I think that it's Ofna makes a centax style clutch that will fit the Super, but I'm not sure, next time I'm at my LHS I'll look into it.

[Rookie Solara]

I tried the SX-15 with Serpent Centax onto the super nitro, NO GO....gears are barely touching cause the centax are further apart compare to the HPI 2-speed.....so, you will either stripping the gears in no time, or blinding the gears between 1st and 2nd.

However, I've seen OTHERS centax works perfectly for HPI Super nitro....you have to ask around what was the brand, but 2 things for sure, (1) it is not from Serpent (2) it is the big balls centax clutch style instead of the shoe pads style like Serpent.....

I think I saw that on Mugen, Kyosho or from OFNA models before....and I've seen that on ebay before.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Anyone run sway bars on their super? I'm wondering if the HPI ones are any good, or just for the lighter cars. 3 wheel motion sucks.

I own the HPI sway bars. I don't like them. I feel that there is too much slop in the system, such that the sway bars don't even 'engage' until there is too much relative motion between the two arms. Also, I felt like there was too much friction in the mount for the sway bar. There might be an easy fix for all the slop by putting a zip tie around the mount and around the arm, but it should be better than it is without any modifying.

You can try mine if you'd like. I can bring them with to the track. But I think you'd be happier just stiffening up the springs. The Super does tend to body roll a lot. Brian had some pictures of my Super from the Harper College days where my car was really leaning, but it was handling great.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Anyone run sway bars on their super? I'm wondering if the HPI ones are any good, or just for the lighter cars. 3 wheel motion sucks.

I always run a FRONT Swaybar and like the handling with it.

To remove the slop, install the Bar(s) with a perfectly set-up and tweaked chassis/suspension, then put a drop or two of medium CA where the mounting balls fit into the Arms. This helps quite a bit without binding the suspension.

Never liked the way the Car felt with a REAR Swaybar.

[RandyT]

popsracer...how did you do in Escondido~?

[Walt]

If you are lifting the inside front wheel on your car, wouldn't a front sway bar make that problem worse?

[Dropkicked]

I was considering it for the rear not the front. Yes I would think running a front swaybar in my situation would make it worse.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
I was considering it for the rear not the front. Yes I would think running a front swaybar in my situation would make it worse.

I'll try to remember to bring mine to the track this Sunday so you can take a look and/or try it out. No promises though regarding my memory... I'm a creature of habit, and bringing those sway bars is not part of my normal habit, so it will be a challenge for me to remember. Embarrassing really, but true.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by RandyT
popsracer...how did you do in Escondido~?

I didn't RACE the Super at Escondido. Ran it twice in practise, signed up for the class, but there ended up only being one other Super entry and they were going to put us in with the T-Maxx's so I canceled my entry.
Glad that I didn't race it anyways, the track was so SLICK later in the day. Was like driving on ICE. Didn't even run my Reflex in the Main it was so bad. The breeze came up and dropped dust all over the track and nothing would work to get grip.

An overall dissapointing day.:(

[popsracer]

Guys;

Mine did this for a while. I found one of the upper Arms was binding. Also consider 1 or 2 steps Stiffer Springs in the Rear.

[RandyT]

Sorry to hear about the bad day, but a bad day of running is better than not running at all. :D

[ntn324]

Originally posted by popsracer
I didn't RACE the Super at Escondido. Ran it twice in practise, signed up for the class, but there ended up only being one other Super entry and they were going to put us in with the T-Maxx's so I canceled my entry.
Glad that I didn't race it anyways, the track was so SLICK later in the day. Was like driving on ICE. Didn't even run my Reflex in the Main it was so bad. The breeze came up and dropped dust all over the track and nothing would work to get grip.

An overall dissapointing day.:(
I agree, an overall disappointing day
i happened to be the one with the other Super
racing with the T-Maxxes was pretty lame
wheres the competition in that?
after asking to be moved to the Nitro Sportsman class,
the excuse given by the race director was:
"Super's are bigger and faster"
bigger, yes; faster, not necessarily
in my case, as fast at the Nitro Sportsman class
and they should have at least blown the track again before the mains
i was essentially drifting through the infield
well, at least i got 10 race bucks, whoohoo
now only if they had something I needed worth buying

[popsracer]

ntn324;

Have heard that Lame-O one before. Hear the word SUPER and automaticly it's faster than a 1/10th. Problem is all of the Super Size Cars are Heavier than 10th's and normally use the same size engine .12-.15, so how is it they are "Faster"?? Hobby People does not allow Big Block engines at is races.

[save1992]

how fast is the super nitro out the box is it a 1/8 scale is it worth buying:D

[TeeGeeRacer]

When can we expect a new Super? I'd really love to get one but I think it's lame that it's probably the only car kit out there that still uses a lame canister muffler. I know HPI has their hands full but a replacement is waaayy overdue. I'm in love with the Tamiya TGR but parts are hard to come by and it doesn't accept pull start engines.

[pep88]

Originally posted by number11
Anybody in this forum race in Seattle? Did anyone race with Eslroc last year and are you planning to race with them this year?

Yeah I ran the first race out there last weekend. The new track is at Home Depot in Everette. Its a little tricky cause the surface is asphalt with a heavy sealer on it. The track was about 100 degress, but I still had to use hot tires, 33r's. Usually I dont use those unless the track is 125 or more.

You should come out, we need more Supers!
hope to see ya there:D

[number11]

Originally posted by pep88
Yeah I ran the first race out there last weekend. The new track is at Home Depot in Everette. Its a little tricky cause the surface is asphalt with a heavy sealer on it. The track was about 100 degress, but I still had to use hot tires, 33r's. Usually I dont use those unless the track is 125 or more.

You should come out, we need more Supers!
hope to see ya there:D

Hey pep88,

This is Allen I sent you a PM on Sunday but I guess you didn't get it. Thanks for loaning me that 2 speed the one I ordered came in on Tues. I will bring that to you the next Eslroc race. If you talk to Mike tell him I will bring the part he gave me out also.

Yeah that track was slippery but my super was handling pretty good my NTC3 had no grip what's so ever. I won't be able to race with you guys this year since Ben moved the races to Sunday. That really pisses me off because I bought the Super to race with Eslroc and Ben knew this. It makes no since that he moved the races to Sunday. Since Rain City is racing on Saturday he didn't want to compete but there is no competition because the Rain guys race nitro at Sarcar all he had to do was move his races opposite Rain City.

I will try and make the few Saturday races he is having. You guys need to tell Ben to move the races to Saturday I know more people would come out because they have expressed the same concern. Talk to you later.

[jogrin]

I everyone!
I mnew here and and running super nitro to.
Could someone explain me to attach some pics.
Thanks.:D :D :D

[pep88]

Originally posted by number11
Hey pep88,

This is Allen I sent you a PM on Sunday but I guess you didn't get it. Thanks for loaning me that 2 speed the one I ordered came in on Tues. I will bring that to you the next Eslroc race. If you talk to Mike tell him I will bring the part he gave me out also.

Yeah that track was slippery but my super was handling pretty good my NTC3 had no grip what's so ever. I won't be able to race with you guys this year since Ben moved the races to Sunday. That really pisses me off because I bought the Super to race with Eslroc and Ben knew this. It makes no since that he moved the races to Sunday. Since Rain City is racing on Saturday he didn't want to compete but there is no competition because the Rain guys race nitro at Sarcar all he had to do was move his races opposite Rain City.

I will try and make the few Saturday races he is having. You guys need to tell Ben to move the races to Saturday I know more people would come out because they have expressed the same concern. Talk to you later.

Yeah dude, the turn out is really low this year. I guess I didnt realize that was due to the Sunday change. I figured it was due to the weather being so bad. I know Todd and I are pretty unhappy with the situation. We were the only 2 that were left in the GT Nitro Class, and 4 Supers are barely enough. I noticed the Rdmond track had 7 10th scale cars, and 4 Supers. Still a low Super turn out, but way better in the 10th scale class. Ill talk to Ben and see if he'll consider a change back to Saturday. I really wanna race with no less than 5 cars per class!

Talk to you later

[number11]

Originally posted by pep88
Yeah dude, the turn out is really low this year. I guess I didnt realize that was due to the Sunday change. I figured it was due to the weather being so bad. I know Todd and I are pretty unhappy with the situation. We were the only 2 that were left in the GT Nitro Class, and 4 Supers are barely enough. I noticed the Rdmond track had 7 10th scale cars, and 4 Supers. Still a low Super turn out, but way better in the 10th scale class. Ill talk to Ben and see if he'll consider a change back to Saturday. I really wanna race with no less than 5 cars per class!

Talk to you later

It could be the weather but it might be the change in days. I know a lot of people were mad about last year with the track location changes and every race being run differently. Rain City has had a good 10th scale turn out 8 to 10 cars but Super there hasn't been enough to have a race.

I am really debating on racing on Sunday usually I spend that day with family. I always said if I race on Sunday it will be with Sarcar but will see. I am going to shoot Ben an email to see if he would consider a change.

See ya in a couple of weeks.

[BiZzAr0]

this might be my next car

is this car any good?

Is the kit hard to build?

[number11]

Originally posted by BiZzAr0
this might be my next car

is this car any good?

Is the kit hard to build?

What is the car?

[Walt]

Originally posted by number11
What is the car?

I'm going to guess that he means the HPI Super Nitro, seeing as how this is the HPI Super Nitro thread...

Anyway, the car is a lot of fun. Not too bad to build. HPI instructions are pretty good, and the 'fit and finish' is usually excellent. Be carefull when assembling the differentials... the screw pattern that holds the two sides together is NOT square, but it's close. It's very easy to get the two sides together at a 90 degree angle to where it's supposed to be. Two screws will tighten up well, and two will seem ok, but won't actually be threading into anything.

Most people that I've seen who have 'blown' an HPI gear diff made this mistake.... it's more common I bet than people realize.

You'll love the car, unless you want to race and there is no one else at your local track with a Super. They might not let you race with the 'regular' touring car guys. At our track, we run the Supers with the Impacts and 1/8th scale cars... they actually keep up pretty well (I won the 'super' class yesterday at our local track against some Impacts and 1/8th scale cars).

If you want to race with a lot of other cars of the same class, get a regular sized touring car. And if you're going to be running where there are a lot of small rocks/pebbles, get something shaft driven (maybe the Super Nitro rally, for example).

[Dropkicked]

At our track, we run the Supers with the Impacts and 1/8th scale cars... they actually keep up pretty well (I won the 'super' class yesterday at our local track against some Impacts and 1/8th scale cars).


Walt forgot to mention that a couple of the 1:8 scales were VERY fast, or the fact that he was running a single speed. A perfect example of driving winning races.

[popsracer]

Guys;

Some of the HPI Diff cases actually had Arrows molded into both case halves to show you where they are supposed to be lined up. Unfortunatly, I believe that HPI has discontinued the Practice.

My "Trick" for getting the Cases lined up properly is to use a Small Allen Hex Wrench to poke into the screw holes. When all 4 holes are lined up, you will be able to feel it with the wrench. Then install the very tiny screws until they're snug.

[popsracer]

Guys;

After much thought and sadness, I have decided to remove the Super Nitro from my stable of R/C Cars.
I anyone is interested, shoot me an E-mail or PM and we'll work out a good deal. (I have no $$ figure in mind, so very negotiable).

Visit the For Sale threads for more details.

[BiZzAr0]

o they have a super class where i race!

[tl01boi]

ok i have sold my supernitro about 3 months ago and i want it back!! but i don't wanna buy another one so i was wondering what i need to turn my nitro rs4 2 into a super nitro i was thinking all i needed was the rims,tires,suspension arms,dogbones,upper deck,aluminum chassis,

[RandyT]

Longer front belt and bumper

[Dropkicked]

Part # QTY Name Retail Price

3033 2 SUPER STAR WHEEL 57x35mm (2.2") GRAY $6.00
4590 2 RACING SLICK TIRE M COMPOUND 57x35mm (2.2") $9.00
4690 2 INNER FOAM 57x35mm (2.2"/MEDIUM) $2.50
93317 2 TURNBUCKLE 4-40x34mm $3.00
93510 2 TURNBUCKLE M4x20mm $2.50
A132 4 FLANGED BALL 5.8x7mm $4.00
A182 1 SERVO SAVER NUT SET (WITH A184 SPRING) $3.00
A183 2 PILOT SHAFT 4x15mm $4.00
A185 2 STEERING JOINT SET $1.00
A281 2 FLANGE SHAFT SET 3x36mm/A282 3x42mm $5.00
A351 2 UPPER ARM/BODY MOUNT SET (SUPER NITRO RS4) $7.00
A390 1 SERVO SAVER SET $4.00
A411 1 BUMPER SET (SUPER NITRO RS4) $8.00
A430 1 DIFF PULLEY SET (39T) $6.50
A454 1 SUSPENSION ARM SET (SUPER NITRO RS4) $5.00
A481 1 UPPER DECK SET (SUPER NITRO RS4) $9.00
A520 1 ARM BRACE SET $6.00
A548 2 AXLE 5x35mm (FRONT) $5.50
A549 2 AXLE 5x40mm (REAR) $5.50
A553 2 DOGBONES 6x57mm (SUPER NITRO RS4) $5.50
A740 1 BELT S3M 471 (157T) 5mm $7.50
A895 2 STOPPER 2.1x6x5mm $2.50
A898 1 PIVOT 2.5mm $3.00
A965 1 SUPER NITRO CHASSIS (ALUMINUM 17S T2.5mm PURPLE) $34.00
B017 2 BALL BEARING 4x8x3mm (2pcs) $14.00
Z243 10 E CLIP E3mm (10 pcs) $1.00
Z253 10 SPRING PIN 2x10mm $1.50
Z505 6 BUTTON HEAD SCREW M3x15mm $1.50
Z529 6 FLAT HEAD SCREW M3x15mm $2.00
Z568 10 TP. BINDER HEAD SCREW M3x12mm $1.00
Z571 6 TP. BINDER HEAD SCREW M3x20mm $1.00
Z725 6 SET SCREW M4x10mm $2.50



Grand Total:$173.50

Sounds like a bargain to me:rolleyes:

I'm sure you could whack $20 or so off their for screws, e-clips, etc. and maybe $20 more for parts that you could McGyver in there, but that's still a heafty price tag. You'd be better off buying a roller off eBay.

just my 17,350 cents,

Drop

[tl01boi]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :o lol im better off buying a supernitro off ebay

[popsracer]

My Super Nitro is now for sale on E-Bay and the Bids are coming in. Better hurry before it's gone.

Steven

[popsracer]

Originally posted by popsracer
My Super Nitro is now for sale on E-Bay and the Bids are coming in. Better hurry before it's gone.

Steven

Here is the Link: Super Nitro for sale (http://**************/ws/*******************************3134055808&category=44015)

[BiZzAr0]

[i]Originally posted by Dropkick[QUOTE]

Rookie, you gotta come out and school me man. I know I'll smoke Honda, and anyone else with a streetificated buggy, but that's not the point. I want to run against you and Walt. That gives me a goal at least. Hopefully Greg will run also.

Also, if you do run tomorrow: STAY AWAY FROM HONDA!!! Believe me it hurts when that oversized beheamoth runs into your car in the turns.

Her's what she'll look like tomorrow:

i know what ur talkin about, where i race there's some redneck that has a streetificated buggy with a chevy body on it. its realy anoying.he just drives it like its with the touring cars. I have an M-chassis and if that thing gets near me, my little car will be crushed!

[peterl944]

Hey, just finished a major rebuild of my super nitro, thought you guys might like a peak. Got a new STS motor and pipe. Made adaptors to fit serpent 1/8 foam fronts all around and added a bunch of hop up parts. Gonna go whoop up on some local parking racers :D . Here's some pics

[peterl944]

another

[peterl944]

wheel adaptors. I am an engineering technician and have access to all kinds of machines. I turned these up my self on the lathe and then wrote a cnc program for the milling machine and cut the shape. Ahhh the joys of milking the company you work for, for everything you can.

[peterl944]

in the wheel

[peterl944]

oh yeah, and I had to machine the flywheel and make a special nut to run the SG crank motor. I then used some spacers from the ofna nut kit.

[peterl944]

Same length, no adjustable mounts ;)



threaded crank ----------------- SG crank

[peterl944]

Oops , thats the threaded crank on the right, in case you couldn't tell

[peterl944]

Next up on the list is a custom cnc'd carbon fiber chassis. I am just waiting for the material, this company has been jerking me around for like 3 weeks now. I am thinking that this thing may even keep up with my serpent Vector, at least on a short track. I am breaking it in tommorow and will find out I guess. By the way if anyone ever needs anything custom machined, send me a PM and maybe I could help you out.

[peterl944]

one last pic :)

this is the toolpath for the wheel adaptors, just drew it up on the comp. and sent it to the machine

[peterl944]

Oh, and this car may be for sale for the right price. Let me know if your interested and I can give you a list of everything I have done to it. I have at least 1100 into it, not to mention some serious amounts of labor. It would include a whole ton of extras and basically be ready to go, starter box, radio and a giant roll around tackle box full of parts.

[wilson_bryant]

hey, peter. how much would it cost for you to make me one of them flywheels?? thanks

[peterl944]

If you supply me a flywheel to modify, I can do it for like $13 plus shipping to me ( i will ship it back). The modifications include re-tapering the back for whatever collet you have, and boring the center out. I modified a kyosho nut but I think you could use an associated nut instead because the hex is nice and small and will fit under the clutch springs without me having to modify it. Here is a link to the nut I am talking about on tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXUP76
I would like to have the nut in hand too when I did it because it has to be sunk into the flywheel a bit, otherwise it only catches like 2 threads. Also if you want to use the 2 speed clutch bell I will have to modify one of the extension pieces included in the ofna kit http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=7 (just have to turn one of the little shoulders off).

let me know if you are interested.

Thanks
Peter

[peterl944]

modified ofna extension piece

[peterl944]

OBTW

I think you will have to use the HPI racing clutch unless I cut a groove in the nut for the springs to sit in. Otherwise they could sit on the flat of the hex or the peaks and this will effect engagement RPM. No biggie though, I like the racing clutch anyway. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLW03&P=Z

[wilson_bryant]

the extension pieceis only for the 2 speed right?

and will this only work w/ a .21 or with a .15?

so all i have to do is ship you a flywheel, before mentioned nut and the ofina clutch bell kit, with 13 and shipping anmount.

when i get some money i might do it. ill lat you know

[peterl944]

Well, I did it for a .12 small block. I could do it for the big block though. But make sure you get the right diameter flywheel.

This may not be the best way to do it with a big block though, because you could just buy soemthing like this maybe http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZT6&P=7 and then get adjustable mounts. Or just buy the Wolfpack kit.

The problem with the big block is that no matter what, you will have to buy new mounts.

Go back through this thread and you will see a few people who have done the BB conversion. You will also find a guy that did a small block with an SG crank and you will see the problems that he ran into, wolfpack had to make him a special flywheel too and he still needed to use adjustable mounts.

My modification would be good if you wanted to run some of the high performance engines out there like the nova mega and RB's that are only available with an SG crank.

[wilson_bryant]

i am a dumb ass i thought your engine was a .21 cause it says "2.1cc" and i didnt see the "."

and how much for some of those adaptors??

thanks

[wilson_bryant]

as for the engine i was looking at these 2 engines. which one is better?? thanks

number 1 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCGG0&P=0)

and number 2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDA7&P=0)

thanks

[Dropkicked]

Talk about apples and oranges.

The Pixi is by far the better engine. The $80 price difference is for a reason. I've seen the Pixi in action, mind you it was in a 705 and driven by one of the fastest guys at the track, but it was very fast. I could be mistaken, maybe Rookie, or Walt know, but I think his was also the ROAR legal version not the Outlaw version. Towers specs on the 2 put the ROAR version at higher HP, but lower RPMs. Tower has been know to make mistakes from time to time though. Actually more like all the time.

Youve got a pretty broad price range on those 2 engines. I'm sure there are comparable .12's somewhere in the middle that will give performance close to that of the pixi without killing your wallet. Again, Rookie can probably make a suggestion.

[wilson_bryant]

so the pixi is better then the XP. thanks for the info drop. but i am open to any sugestions on engines around the pixi performance. all i am looking for is speed, i want to drag race.

[RandyT]

Well how much are you looking to spend~? Are you willing to do a conversion~?

[wilson_bryant]

the price of the pixi is the most i will spend, and if you mean a .21 or BB.15 conversion, that i dont really want.

[jogrin]

Hi everyone
Just wanted to show you my Wolfpack super nitro
:D :D :D

[wilson_bryant]

what about a fantom engine like a FR.12 03 RE, S Carb, P/S, SG crank and custom header. it costs 159.95 @ stormer hobbies.

[jogrin]

Here another one with the body..

[tl01boi]

Originally posted by jogrin
Hi everyone
Just wanted to show you my Wolfpack super nitro
:D :D :D

hey i like how the belt goes to the side and i was wondering if there is a conversion like that that will work with my nitro rs4 2

[RandyT]

jogrin: nice job on your body, all those stickers must have taken some time to do. Hope you have a basher body for that thing. What kind of motor are you running in it~? Big block .15~?

wilson_bryant : A friend has a .12 Sirio Outlaw, that motor moves and the price isn't bad.

[jogrin]

Hi RandyT!
The engine is a novarossi cx12 pullstart,i will surely go to the new rb v12 non pullstart when this one will die(already changed sleeve, piston, conrod once).
I definitely ever won t go 21 engine cause my opinion is the super nitro is not able to support all this power,How many rear universal dogbones,out diff,diff cases and other parts i already changed and not just once!!
I m really happy to have bought the Wolfpack convertion,this give a youth of my 3 years old car!
here some chassi pics.
See ya!!
;) ;)

[jogrin]

another one

[jogrin]

another one :D :D

[jogrin]

Last one :p :p

[jogrin]

Hi tl01boi
I don t thing Wolfpack made this convertion for rs4,to be sure you could go to www.wolfpackradicals.com and mail to Wolfgang,He s really a nice guy and professional.

[RandyT]

My Super pics are back a few pages: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80553&perpage=25&pagenumber=17

It can handle the .21 but it is more for dragging then anything else, but you are right, it goes through belts and dogbones like snacks. I might go to a big block 15 to make it more user friendly. I was thinking about getting Wolfgangs adapters for Proceed tires, but I picked up a tire truer so I just took down the rears to match the fronts, kind of a waste of foam, but I want to see how it runs like that. I'm going to try to take it out this weekend and see if it handles any better.

[jogrin]

Hi RandyT
i m running foam tires,same size front and rear and the handle is really good,actually i m running it on the very good racetrack we have here Marseille (south of France) wheels on pics are just for static.I surely will buy proceed wheels adapter cauce i like a lot the shape of those wheels,but later cause like you i will buy a used hudy tire truer in very good condition this week.
Did you buy the 2nd speed adapter?
Do you have the mugen pivot ball convertion?

[RandyT]

I have the two-speed. I don't think I'll spend anymore money on it. I really haven't had the time to fiddle with it, since we picked up Savages and have been bashing those things. We went out last weekend but the big parking lot we run in was have a Swap Meet, so the other place we run is smaller and too close to homes so I couldn't run the Super. I also have a Serpent 835 waiting to be finished, so I'll probably be spending more time on it.

[wilson_bryant]

i just got my super back today. i sent it up to canada for a trade with a tmaxx but something happened to the guys truck and he sent back my car with a single cell battery charger and 16 recharable AAs. The car is in good condition but it is missing a few screws, and he hacked up my bumber so it is useless now. oh well at least it is back.

but there is a problem with the engine that just happened, when i get on the throttle it will fire the almost die but the it will fire again, and repete that until it dies(5 or 6 seconds). it is almost like if you where to blip full throttle really fast. i am confused can anyone help. it is a stock FE(put that back in for the trade, will be putting other engine back in). thanks for any help

[Dropkicked]

put it back to factory settings, and tune it from scratch. Probably just got it out of tune. Still got compression? Hope he didn't blow your engine.

[wilson_bryant]

it is tuned right and has good compression. i am going to tear it down and take a look.

[poopie]

My HD 2-speed tranny is not shifting at all and I've been fiddling with the set screw for a couple days and I still cannot get it to shift. I just tore it down and cleaned it. Now, can anyone tell me aproximately how many turns out the set screw should be? Just a ball park figure would be fine. Thanks!

[popsracer]

poopie;

Should be 2-1/2 to 3 turns out, from just gently bottomed out, should be a good starting point.
Remember that the transmission shifts by the Cars MPH (NOT Engine RPM), so gearing will effect the shift point.

[Razornmt]

im really having trouble finding metal 2 speed gears for the rs4 in 44 tooth and 39 tooth. any help would be greatly apreciated.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by Razornmt
im really having trouble finding metal 2 speed gears for the rs4 in 44 tooth and 39 tooth. any help would be greatly apreciated.

I had thought that Megatech had Metal gears for the RS4's, but question why you would want them. Even with a .21 conversion the stock Plastic Gears should be fine.
Only time I ever stripped one was when the Motor screws came loose and I only let that happen once.

[Razornmt]

heh... when the stock 2 speed (finger) slips up into the thing that catches it and spins the second gear, it REALLY hits that slot it slides into. so as soon as it shift its pretty much shaves the gear. this is why im ALSO looking at the wolfpack radicals 2 speed to go along with metal gears

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by poopie
My HD 2-speed tranny is not shifting at all and I've been fiddling with the set screw for a couple days and I still cannot get it to shift. I just tore it down and cleaned it. Now, can anyone tell me aproximately how many turns out the set screw should be? Just a ball park figure would be fine. Thanks!

If you are talking about the stock HPI 2-speed "finger" type setting....it should be counterclockwise 3 turns after close all the way in for the stock hpi engine.

If you are having aftermarket engine, counterclockwise 3.5 or even 4 turns.

For better result, get the wolfpack/AE conversion, it is way better then HPI one.

[Razornmt]

dude, u just gave hi ma bunch of WRONG info.


turn it to the right for a more powerful engine / later shift point.

the stock engine should be a few turns out from tigthened down. my hyper .21 is about 1 turn out from tight.

[poopie]

I'm running a big block Nova .15 so I will try it at both 1 turn out and 2 1/2. Thanks for the info.

[Walt]

Did anyone mention that you need to use 'black' spring for high performance engines and the 'silver' spring for the stock engine? If you don't have the black spring in there, I'd put that one in there, and start about 3 turns out.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Razornmt
dude, u just gave hi ma bunch of WRONG info.


turn it to the right for a more powerful engine / later shift point.

the stock engine should be a few turns out from tigthened down. my hyper .21 is about 1 turn out from tight.

If you think my information is wrong, you should write to HPI and let them know..........cause they are the factory setting from HPI themself.

See here....

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/a910p3.jpg

[Razornmt]

imagine that, that pic shwos EXACTLY what i said. u said tigthen the screw all the way for the stock engine. u forgot to say back it out a few turns.

either way, one of us goofed, lets drop it.



im now running 21/37 gearing on my hyper .21 rs4 2 racer 2 and it flys.

is there taller gearing?

[Rookie Solara]

Dude..........I did not forgot to tell him to turn 3 times....read my message again, I said "......it should be counterclockwise 3 turns after close all the way in for the stock hpi engine.

If you are having aftermarket engine, counterclockwise 3.5 or even 4 turns."

It is all good, I just want to make sure I was not on drugs.

Regarding your tailer gear.......try Serpent single speed clutch and Serpent gear, they can go up to 27T.

[Razornmt]

will they fit on my rs4 2 racer 2? cuz 27 tooth sounds even faster already...

[Rookie Solara]

YES, sure......you are running 21 engine, with header and pipe, add turbo plug/ring then use the smallest SPUR with the biggest PINION, then you should hit 80 mph easily.............if you can get the car to run a straight line.

But...........why?

[Dropkicked]

come on Rookie.... don't be an elitist. We don't all run at a track. There are a TON of drag racers running around this country. Some day someone's gonna get smart enough to start charging them to race on a good surface and make money off them ;)

[poopie]

Do really need to use the black spring in the two speed? What would the effects be if I didn't?

[Dropkicked]

If your asking if you need to use "any" spring the answer is yes. I believe the black spring is the harder one used for more powerful engines. If you have a powerful engine and use the other spring it will not engage properly, or consistantly, and the spring will be damaged prematurely.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by poopie
Do really need to use the black spring in the two speed? What would the effects be if I didn't?

I've always used the 'Silver' Springs in all of the HPI cars (and small block .12/.15's) that I have owned and they shifted fine. Some People claim that the 'Black' Spring is more consistant, so I'd say it's your choice.

With a Big Block and Tall Gearing, you may HAVE to use the 'Black' Spring or the Car may shift way too early.

[Razornmt]

i need to find out if the serpent 27 tooth gear will FIT the racer 2. or if he was just being a smart ass.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Razornmt
i need to find out if the serpent 27 tooth gear will FIT the racer 2. or if he was just being a smart ass.

Now....I am a smart ass.

Good luck to find your 27T conversion.......if I were you, start at HOME DEPOT or RADIO SHACK.....LOL

[Razornmt]

what a jerk.

[Dropkicked]

Razornmt,

Don't feel bad. If you look back to page 2 of this thread you'll see Rookie bragging about his shiny new wolfpack 2-speed. Look closely and you'll see that he installed the shoes BACKWARDS. Hmmm Mine works fine :) Rookie, my super is a totally different car now... you'll see sunday :)

Drop

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Razornmt,

Don't feel bad. If you look back to page 2 of this thread you'll see Rookie bragging about his shiny new wolfpack 2-speed. Look closely and you'll see that he installed the shoes BACKWARDS. Hmmm Mine works fine :) Rookie, my super is a totally different car now... you'll see sunday :)

Drop

Tom....don't even bother to assist Razornmt......cause he KNOWS everything, and be carefull, his RS4 will eat yours alive cause he will figured out the 27T/39T combination in no TIME.....LOL.

No, I won't see yours this sunday, need to work......in order for me to fine tune the car, I am keeping the single speed on and let the MOTOR do the work, and I will run rubber tires as well, just for the HPI Challenge in 4 weeks.

I will try to find time to stop by Tinley soon.........

[Razornmt]

why did u even bother saying try it? and WHEN did i say i know EVERYTHING. i think u need to watch what words u put in my mouth.

[Rookie Solara]

Oh....WHO want to try that now..? YOU.

Who said I posted the WRONG INFO about setting 2-speed clutch...? YOU.

Who didn't really read someone's post and said someone is wrong..? YOU.

Who saying someone is a "SMART ASS" then this person PRIVITELY send me a PM and ASK for my help to make his RADIO SHACK RS4 go very very fast....YOU.

You have no shame about your wording.....on one side, you said I am all BS, on the other side, you send me PM and asked how can you get the Serpent Clutch bell conversion WITHOUT the rest of the ppl here knows about it...

GROW UP.....and take responsibiltiy of what you wrote moron....

PS....don't even bother to figure out the 27T conversion, by reading your wording on your post, it will take years for someone to explain to you how's that works.

Please, bring up the other topic and I don't want to waste time on this garbage.....

[Dropkicked]

here's a stupid question....


why not just run a serpent centax and keep the 2-speed? Or do you want to have to circle the parking lot 3 times to get up to top speed?

Drop

[Razornmt]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Oh....WHO want to try that now..? YOU.

Who said I posted the WRONG INFO about setting 2-speed clutch...? YOU.

Who didn't really read someone's post and said someone is wrong..? YOU.

Who saying someone is a "SMART ASS" then this person PRIVITELY send me a PM and ASK for my help to make his RADIO SHACK RS4 go very very fast....YOU.

You have no shame about your wording.....on one side, you said I am all BS, on the other side, you send me PM and asked how can you get the Serpent Clutch bell conversion WITHOUT the rest of the ppl here knows about it...

GROW UP.....and take responsibiltiy of what you wrote moron....

PS....don't even bother to figure out the 27T conversion, by reading your wording on your post, it will take years for someone to explain to you how's that works.

Please, bring up the other topic and I don't want to waste time on this garbage.....





If my radio shack rs4 isnt from hpi then ur super nitro rs4 must be from radio shack too dick.

and if u had properly explained yourself about the 27 tooth spur gear then none of htis would have happened. and you are correct, i still do not know what the **** you are talking about. and yes, i made a mistake in my first post, i didnt catch that you DID say back it out three turns, i somehow misunderstood and thought you only said tighten it down all the way, in my next post i stated someone goofed, DROP IT, so why be childish and bring it back up?

[Razornmt]

anyways, lets drop this, im still asking if the 27 tooth spur will fit on the hpi shaft, no, not the clutchbell on the engine shaft, i mean the actual SPUR , how will i attach it to the shaft the spur gear rides on.

[Rookie Solara]

You cannot drop that gear onto the HPI clutch bell or the shaft...besides, what shaft...? You must have a bell first...? Spur gears are install onto the clutch bell, not shaft like electric car...

Then, I menteioned many times that I was referring to the Serpent regular clutch bell...... but using that, you can use anykind of gear that you want (I believed HPI has one too but it is for RS4 3 or something).........if you want your cars be special, you have to do your homework and find parts that works.

If you want the plug and play kiddy stuff from HPI...sorry, no, not that easy.

Then this is the hard piece, there are rarely anymore gear taller then 20T (search towers) see you can find the OFNA gear that will match the clutch bell.....they are there, just not sure where...and I have a 25T now but the side was cracked.

Last...Serpent Centax does not work.....the centax you guy saw are the BALL TYPE centax from someone else....(ofan? Neo?) it is sure not from Serpent casue their centax/2-speed gears are wider apart....putting Serpent Centax is not a problem, you must mate the Serpent 2-speed gear box onto the SNRS4 or Rs4, that is IMPOSSIBLE.

Drop....hows your SNRS4 today...?and when r you going to Tinley next time...? I need to find someone beside walts to race with.

OK.....MOVE ON, next topic....

[Dropkicked]

Rookie,

I had to run out today. I got a phone call just before the first nitro heat, and had to go look at a dog (long story). I replaced my Super. Picked up a nice Impact package last week, and ran that during practice. It kind of sucks because the last time I ran the super, I FINALLY had the suspension dialed. It was hooking up great, just lacking in the acceleration department. Now I get to start all over on a setup i'm not familiar with. The impact was really loose today so I definitely need to do some work on it. The RB X15 Turbo has got plenty of power, just can't get it to the ground yet. I may use my super for drag racing saturday nights. There's quite a few people around here that need to get beat bad, and my super hooks up like crazy for straight line racing. I'll probably throw a hot .21 in it and go spank the smack talkers out at torrence. I might bring the super out to the track if I'm waiting for parts or something on the impact.

Drop

[Rookie Solara]

Dude....welcome to the Serpent Wagon, you will love the IMPACT over the Super Nitro, because that is a real racing machine.

However, you have to get several things......some high torque servo up front, then HUDY setup tools and setup board, then last......a lot of different shores foam tires.

I remember you have a tire truer already, so that is a good start.

Once you bring your impact over TINLEY, I will show you, Albert and Frank about the F/R ratio of the IMPACT, and that can explain to you that why your IMPACT is everywhere even you have a wide foam tires.

IMPACT is a almost perfect car.....only you have to dial it right first.

Now, I have to ask Albert to borrow his spare W2 so I can run some IMPACT laps with the sudden raising IMPACT class.....but I can still use my SNRS4 to race with those impact.

[Razornmt]

sorry about the pm thing, this forum doesnt have a pop up that notifiesm eo f a new pm, other forums do, my mistake.

anyways, thanks for the info. but like i was trying to say before i noticed the pm was how do i get the serpent spur to fit on the shaft that the hpi spur rides on.

[Razornmt]

also, im lazy :D and need someone to find out what parts i need to convert my racer 2 over to a super nitro. but i need only the parts that are needed after buying the wolfpack radicals uh.. thign that puts the tank in them iddle of the upper deck. thanks a bunches.

[jogrin]

Hi everyone

Just almost finish the car ,waiting for adjustable mounts and flywheel from wolfpack.

here some pics

see ya;) ;) ;)

[jogrin]

another one:D :D :D

[jogrin]

another...:p :p

[jogrin]

last one:cool: :cool: :cool:

[Dropkicked]

Now I'm not asking this to be a jerk. I own a super nitro, and have 1/8 scale tires on it etc etc. But I also own an impact.

Now the question

What's the point of dumping endless amounts of money into a super nitro?

super nitro kit $350

wolfpack conversion $280

All the other wolfpack goodies $100+

Threaded shocks and other non WP parts $100+

I almost went that route, but realized it was too damn expensive. I understand that a wolfpacked super nitro is better balanced, stiffer, and probably handles a little better, but why not just buy a serpent, or a mugen, or well anything but a super nitro? I never realized how bad the car was until I stepped up.

Just curious,

Drop

EDIT: Now I understand the guys who run super nitro class for say HPI challenge. That's inexpensive compared to most "race" cars. It's just the $1000 HPI cars that I don't understand.

[Toyotatogo]

My Super ten......

In day time

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL51/1049490/2262287/28489533.jpg

At bed time

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL51/1049490/2262287/28496129.jpg

[jogrin]

Hi dropkiked

Your question is objective and you re right if you want to race go to a mugen or serpent even a v one rr .
If i spend some money on that car it s just cause i have it since 3 years and i don t want to resell it ,i have just one rc car it s that one.
The most important ,in my opinion,is it not to make pleasure yourself? :D :D :D

[Rookie Solara]

Dropkicks..............trust me, I won't blaim you........but I have to give some of my input.

EVERYONE, I mean EVERYONE in RC world, should 1 time, or at least ONE TIME going a little overboard on their own ride....no matter it is a HPI, or top knouch Serpent IMPACT.......it is all depends on the owner, he is willing to spend the money, it is all up to him, and NO ONE can tell him he is RIGHT or WRONG....

But then, we can all ask them - WHY doing it...? That is the time they have to head out the track and see who is the fastest....

In this example, no one will say dropping $1000 plus on the Super is wrong, cause that is what he want to do.....besides, how could someone spend $3000 on a full TITANIUM T-maxx and just running over someone's driveway......?

If you think getting a Serpent IMPACT is the solution......you just have to WAIT and meet the right person and show you that is just the BEGINNING of your next stage............spending money on the front and side belts, broken steering knuckles left and right, and all the different compound of the foams for the IMPACT will be more then the cost of that wolfpack mod on the Super, you think you can save some TIME and MONEY on a Serpent - think again......your credit card bill is just beginning.

For me.........I learned my lesson from someone.......and he taught me one thing......HOW can you drive a STOCK car and ran like a MOD car...? Is that possible? Can 12 engine beat 21 engine....? I was thinking those are impossible......but untill I raced him several years, I realized a STOCK car can be drive like a PRO car, and that is the reason why I sold my IMPACT and get myself a used Super Nitro........

It is another type of FUN running a stock (well, almost stock) car and race against those big boys like IMPACT.........for us, that is the challenge/fun about RC racing.

[Razornmt]

so i been running my .21 racer 2 with 15/46 21/37 gearing and it TEARS it up everywhere. i love it. i just drag race so i can (sorta heh. that real cars sounds nice too) kindaj ustidy spending so much on my racer 2. but now with the .21 it seems s0 worth it all. i have no doubt in my mind some .12 's can beat my car on the track and they might get me in topend with more rpm's and bigger tires but not in accel . EVER. no .12 or .15. or .18 is gonna match the off line jump of my hyper .21. i did the mod where you set the rear camber links to the top hole on the upright and man what a difference that made. its handles superb now. next problem. i dont have enough speed. would you please just explain the serpent gear thing better?

[Dropkicked]

I realize all of that. I'm not new to this hobby, in fact i got my first hobby class rc in 1982. I raced 1:10 electric buggies about 14-15 years ago before taking a long break from the hobby. I know all to well that no car is out of the box an end all to the money spending. My only point with the super nitro is that the people who are spending outrageous amounts of money are doing so to make the car into a serpent style car. You can buy all the hopups in the world for a super nitro, but what you end up with is an 1:8 scale car with bad suspension. Yes you can have wide tires, yes you can fit a .21, yes the tank is centered, but you still have the crappy HPI suspension, at least in the rear. There's no hop up out there that will give you adjustable castor in the front, or pivot ball suspension in the rear, we could go on and on.

I guess part of me, and a big part at that can understand. I love tinkering, and making something out of nothing. Maybe I have just moved on to the next step, and am passing judgment unfairly. Who knows, my Impact parts box has 4 of almost every plastic part in it. Maybe I can McGuyver some of the suspension on to the super.

Like I said, I'm not selling my super. Just looking from a different perspective. Sorry if I came off as bashing anyone, I really didn't mean to.

Also, I got my impact at a bargain price. Car , engine, starter box, hudy setup, tons of parts, spare 2-speeds, spare clutch, etc, etc for less than $600. I had more than that in my super. If I had to pay full price for all the serpent stuff I would probably still be dumping money into my super.

Great, now I have 2 money pits, not including my T-maxx, my boat, and my son's clodbuster:rolleyes:

Oh Well,

Drop

[Toyotatogo]

U guys like my super ten???

[Razornmt]

yea.




the main reason i wanna convert my racer 2 to the super nitro is because of the toyota ts020 body. it is totaly sweet and would suit my .21 power car nicely. anyways, i also want to be able to run wide (45 and 60mm i think?) foam tires. and the fact i can run a proper .21 tuned pipe instead of using my existing hyper .21 manifold and having my ae gt pipe sticking about the rear y brace and facing out the rear of the car.


anyways....

[poopie]

http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/_pivot_ball_front_.html

[Razornmt]

so i wrecked my .21 racer 2. prety much te front right is all gone. snapped the shock shaft at the thread part. clean shaven.fuel tank flew open temporarily and covered front end.


gearing : 17/41 23/37

went to drag races yesternight and was fastest car there. even though it accidentalty loosened the screw that holds the 2 speed on the shaft. anyways i got 3.4 @ 41 mph in my fastest run. so tonight i fixed my 2 speed problems and took off. did 1 speed pass and came back up my street and BOOM. suv tire : 1 ,.21 racer 2 : 0


:eek:

this looks liekd the percet excuse to start on converting my .21 racer 2 into a super nitro.

[Hooked Up]

Do you guys use the droop screws to set the droop on your supers? I also have a NTC3 and set it on that car, so it got me wondering what the droop should be set to on the Super?

To this point (2 years of racing it), I've had really good luck just setting the ride height by adjusting the springs with the threaded shocks I have on it, and keeping the droop screws unscrewed far enough that they aren't doing anything (max arm travel).

However, I am racing it this weekend on a different track which is supposedly really smooth and high grip so I started messing with droop on the super. Instead of disconnecting the shocks and using a droop guage, I turned the droop screws until the ride height desired was obtained. This created a lot more pre-load on the springs, and much less (almost no) arm travel when the chassis is moved up. In other words, if the chassis moves upwards, the wheels will come with it (off the ground). If the track is indeed smooth and high grip, I imagine this will work well. If not, serious hopping is gonna occur I think.

On my NTC3 with default droop settings, there is some room for the arm to move (downward) if the chassis moves upwards, so I'm second guessing this new "experimental" suspension setup I have on my Super currently. It seems better to have some knowledge of what the "correct droop settings for a smooth high grip track" might be for the super and set that correctly using a droop guage instead of the "hack" way I did it, but even finding any mention of droop settings on the net for it so far has been fruitless.

Opinions? Ideas? Wisdom?

[Dropkicked]

RazorNMT,

Don't waste your money buying the parts to convert your racer 2. Look on ebay for a roller. The super Nitro has about the same resale value as a Yugo, therefore you can probably find one in decent shape with spare parts for less than $150. Look back in this thread, and see my post of the parts needed for the conversion. It's somewhere near $180 if I remember.

Rookie,

So far so good with the Impact. I have broken very few parts the couple times I got it out, and did considerably better on the track with it. I am hopefully done with all of my electronics problems. I got (2) JR z4750 servos for $18 shipped, and they work like new :) Electronics have been the only real problem. I'm sure you saw me smack the walls a few times, some pretty damn hard. The only damage i took was a dogbone popping out (easy fix..found it), and I popped a pivot ball right through the rear hub. Keep in mind, that happened coming into the infield from the right side of the drivers stand 2 weeks ago (pretty fast track) and I was probably in excess of 40mph. The rear got loose, spun out and went ass first into the boards... HARD! I ran down, popped it right back in and continued racing. That's when my pit man didn't refuel me and I ran out of fuel. The car handled just as well on a bad pivot ball as it did before the wreck.

I may be out again this weekend, but may make it out for a little while. If Walt will let me I may come out around the third qualifier, or leave after the second. Anything to get some track time. Let A.M. know that if I make it out I will have his servo for him.


BTW, for everyone else....

Walt won the HPI challenge last weekend with some mechanical help from Rookie.... 2 years in a row!



Drop

[ALJR]

any one in need of some new aluminum touring car shocks?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134401

or a micro rx:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134219

[wilson_bryant]

i just ordered a 2 speed, it should be here tomarrow. cant wait. i am down in florida visiting my dad, and the streets and much better the up in iowa. hopfully i can keep it fron flippin. i was out the other day and when i went to turn it kept flippin. could that be from too much grip???

wilson

[Dropkicked]

If you're running foams, or even 1/8 foams, and flipping it's from too much traction/too soft suspension. I had the same problem. Go a step harder on the springs all round. This will keep the front to rear suspension balance the same but make it a bit stiffer. If it's a smooth surface with good traction you can go pretty hard with springs. Check out a 1/8th on-road car that runs on a good track. The suspension on those is often very stiff, but still handles very well.

[wilson_bryant]

sadly i am nowhere near an onroad track, ohwell. i ordered a 2 speed trany and instead of the 43T and 46T gears that were supost to be in the pack i got 2 43T. should i email tower and tell them or just order the right gear. thanks

[PCC]

Call HPI and they will probably send you a 46T spur.

[wilson_bryant]

i emailed tower and they are sending the gear. i think tower has the best customer service.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

A friend of mine brought out his Super Nitro RS4, and I was kind of shocked to see that you couldn't adjust the toe? Do I just not understand the stock kit?

[PCC]

Originally posted by wilson_bryant
i emailed tower and they are sending the gear. i think tower has the best customer service. Have you ever tried HPI's? IMHO, their customer service is outstanding. They've sent me parts that I have pretty much just asked for.

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
A friend of mine brought out his Super Nitro RS4, and I was kind of shocked to see that you couldn't adjust the toe? Do I just not understand the stock kit? The stock configuration has threaded rods on rod ends. You can replace these with turnbuckles.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
A friend of mine brought out his Super Nitro RS4, and I was kind of shocked to see that you couldn't adjust the toe? Do I just not understand the stock kit?

Depends on where are you talking about "TOE" at....you can of course adjust toe-in or out on the front, but YES, you cannot adjust the REAR TOE on any HPI cars (except R40 and Proceed)

I think the stock toe at rear is 2 degree inward, and I am not sure you can change the rear hub to -1 or 0 degree.....I leave mine alone cause I am happy with what the stock setting is.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Right on, it's nice to know I'm not just completely dense. Thanks for the input.

[Saboteur]

Yes, I'm thinking of buying one myself. As much as I want the HPI R40, there is no track around here for me to do any racing. Untill I get a real car, then I can try visiting RC Madness. A super nitro would seem really fun to bash around with and I'd like to try my M16 in it. Hey Rookie how is the MT12 in your SN? My lhs still has one except it has an SG crank. I believe I'd have to get one of wolfpacks flywheels to fit it.

[CrackerGee]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
If you're running foams, or even 1/8 foams, and flipping it's from too much traction/too soft suspension. I had the same problem. Go a step harder on the springs all round. This will keep the front to rear suspension balance the same but make it a bit stiffer. If it's a smooth surface with good traction you can go pretty hard with springs. Check out a 1/8th on-road car that runs on a good track. The suspension on those is often very stiff, but still handles very well.

what brand/model foam tires are you guys running sucessfully?? I've tried 2 different brands and both sets were shreadded after a few hot laps:confused: i guess they were too soft of a compound....duh!:D

[CrackerGee]

OHHHHH, and well I too just finished reading ALL 26 PAGES :eek:<rubbing my eyes>...very very very very informative! After reading all of that, I feel like a walking talking super nitro encyclopedia; thanks to Rookie Solara (I remember you from HPI's forum:D) Dropkicked, CONTENDER (another ol' school HPI forum dude), as well as all the others.

Also wanted to mention that I have to agree w/ the other gentleman about the RAZORNMT guy....Dude, you come here for help and advise, you better take what you can get...for whatever its worth. You are WAY out of line for going at Rookie Solara like that...who da hell do you think you are?!?!

And I believe you owe Rookie Solara a humble apology... for being the dick you don't have.... :D

kracker

[Redneck Basher]

Nice forum guys. Thanks for all the insights.

I've been running sn's for about 2 years now. we run a simple parking lot oval on high bite asphalt. no formal races but we compete on every lap.

My opinion; the sn platform is very hard to beat overall. the cars are very inexpensive to maintain. they don't tear up very often. they withstand crashes (with non solid objects) tremendously well. they can be dialed in to most tracks or parking lots easily. they run great with a 2-speed. and last but not least parts can be found almost anywhere.

HPI has done a good job with this one. (keep in mind i know there are faster more capable platforms out there but when you factor in everything its a pretty darn good car.)

Foam tires.... all 8th and 9th scale cars are hard on foams. (my experience - even rotating, about 8-10 tanks is the best you'll get.) we've tried two separate brands (not much selection on hardness) and while they do improve stability (no rollovers w/foams) they seem to take something away from performance. the rubber slicks really "hook-up" on the lot and that means torque and speed out of the corners. I'm still looking. might try the wolfpack option using proceed tires. but that gets kinda expensive. can't remember the specifics but proceed foams are around forty bucks a set.

have you guys tried the heavier gpm chassis?? it lowers the cog (center of gravity) and seems to help in the corners. (especially when using droop screws.)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Hey Rookie how is the MT12 in your SN? My lhs still has one except it has an SG crank. I believe I'd have to get one of wolfpacks flywheels to fit it.

Yeah, MT-12 will not disappoint you....no way, that engine was like 4-5 years old and STILL, one of the most reliable non-turbo engine around, if you cannot have a good outcome with that engine with you SNRS4 or any TC, it is the way you drive or the setup you have, not the engine.

DO NOT, I mean DO NOT get SG crank engine for any HPI except R40.....you will be CRYING all day long.........I learn my lesson by getting the car without research (I thought 15 years in RC is good enough, apparently, NOT).....

To get the SG crank engine work on HPI, you need the Wolfpack flywheel, AND the adjustable engine mount that was used for .15 or .21 or any oversized engine.....cause 12 SG crank engine required to PUSH the engine closer to the spur, that is the HPI problem, they design the car for some cheap ass engine like NITRO STAR 15, instead of MT-12 SG crank.......

So, I hope it is not too late...........get the standard crank engine (MT-12, MR-12, Nova Rossi and SIRIO all have standard short crank engine)..........

If possible, get the Wolfpack Serpent 1/8th foam tires conversion too...........running rubbers is a hugh disadvantage if you are planning to race against 835 or Serpent Impact.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
Foam tires.... all 8th and 9th scale cars are hard on foams. (my experience - even rotating, about 8-10 tanks is the best you'll get.) we've tried two separate brands (not much selection on hardness) and while they do improve stability (no rollovers w/foams) they seem to take something away from performance. the rubber slicks really "hook-up" on the lot and that means torque and speed out of the corners. I'm still looking. might try the wolfpack option using proceed tires. but that gets kinda expensive. can't remember the specifics but proceed foams are around forty bucks a set.

have you guys tried the heavier gpm chassis?? it lowers the cog (center of gravity) and seems to help in the corners. (especially when using droop screws.)

I have to agree about your rubber tires opinion.....but only PART of it............I ran the HPI challenge Michigan about 2 months ago and running rubber is the only way around, the result........horrible.

There are so many reason....TRACK layout, trackion...temperature, and the most important.........YOUR POWER PLANT.......

Electric TC can run rubber cause they ran indoor carpet, if run outdoor, still acceptable, due to the power of elect motor.......got the RPM but not the torque.

Nitro power engine now a day will no longer any SLOWER then any modified electrical motor (it was not true about 4-5 years ago when nitro engine can only do like 30,000 rpm and produce 1 to 1.2 HP)...........with the extra torque and HP, rubber tires just cannot handle the extra load......not to mention the worst thing about rubber tires.............BALLOONING.

Foam tires can be expensive, I ran only Ellegi Multi-ring 1/8th front foams all around.........but one full set of those (around $48 per set) can set me back for like good 4-6 weekend of racing....that is like 3 qualifier plus one 15 minutes main times 4-6.........I doubt any rubber tires can do that......beside, a set of 33R plus low-bounce and red insert with black BBS rims from HPI are almost like $45 already........it might last more then 4-6 weekend, but I doubt it will performance as good as the foams on any time and any temp condition.

One thing I can tell you all..........DO NOT over power your SNRS4, I've seen 21 powered SNRS4 with Serpent Vete1 wide rear foams and still running everywhere without the traction........that is the typical "TOO MUCH POWER" on a car that cannot handle that much power.

If you drop a good 15 engine (like Sirio small block 15) I think that is the MAX of SNRS4 can handle on a real track (driveway and parking lot bashing does not count......)

[rc_king1]

How do you guys run your diffs? Are they filled with diff oil or are they dry? Is there a way to seal the diffs with gaskets or are you guys just running the HPI spring kits for the diffs to get different diff actions?

I am asking these questions because I'm getting ready to make my super into a outlaw car with a big block .15, front one-way, either some type of solid or locked rear or possibly a limited slipp rear diff. I already have the RC Rage adapters for the foam tires and I'm thinking about getting the new 2-speed from Wolfpack. Any other ideas would be helpful. Thanks

[Redneck Basher]

Thanks for the comments RS.
I know part of my issue is the track/parking lot we run on. i'm not sure if it means the same thing to everyone, but when I say "high bite", I'm speaking of fairly rough, unsealed asphalt. it really is rough on foams. but i still want to experiment with them.

is there a specific reason why you recommend the serpent foams??

I've got 2 sn's. both have .12's one the sirio turbo and the other is a Novarossi 5 port turbo. both are really good motors. i absolutely love the RB one piece pipes. anyone else tried one?

rc king - I run ball diffs on both my sn's. can't offer much on gear diff preference. i've heard the springs work well. seems like I read somewhere that oil in an hpi diff will give you problems. never seen anyone use oil though so it could be rumor. I like ball diffs because there's less mass to rotate. (they change the handling characteritics of the car though.)

how are the rc rage adaptors working out? what kind of foams are you using?

[Redneck Basher]

errrr.. I meant to say I love my RD one piece pipe in my last post.

[rc_king1]

The adapters work great. I run Serpent 1/8th front foam tires on all four corners.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
is there a specific reason why you recommend the serpent foams??


No special reason, I have discount on Serpent items........and I think they are good quality....and for 1/8th foams, they are almost the best.

[Saboteur]

Rookie Solara- Thnx for the tips man. No its not too late. :) I havent bought it as yet. Been waiting for my LHS to get the R40 in but they havent, nor do I see any parts. So far its just all the Super Nitros, RS43's, & Type3ss's. The only MT12 they have there is an SG crank as well as the Sirio engine. :( I'll wait for the R40 or ask him to order it. BTW, its my Bday 2day :D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Rookie Solara- Thnx for the tips man. No its not too late. :) I havent bought it as yet. Been waiting for my LHS to get the R40 in but they havent, nor do I see any parts. So far its just all the Super Nitros, RS43's, & Type3ss's. The only MT12 they have there is an SG crank as well as the Sirio engine. :( I'll wait for the R40 or ask him to order it. BTW, its my Bday 2day :D

Yeah R40 is definitely a good car to start, if you want to get in some serious tunning of TC, then MT-12, MR-12, Sirio or OS TR are all good engine to run with....easy enough to tune and powerfull enough to race.

After several years, you can start sending some serious money on the HIGH END stuff, but meanwhile, enjoy the racing.

As long as you are running R40 (and not the rest of the HPI line-up) SG crank is OK and should be the one to use (buy)

[tphss]

How do you change the Super RS4 between 280mm and 300mm I just switche done of my cars for a Super RS4 and I don't know how.

Thanks.

[Saboteur]

Thnx again Rookie. Yeah I'm done for now with the average stuff and wanna just go all out with a pro ready ride, high performance engine, etc. My XR2 AM works really well with my nitro truck and I cant wait to use it in the R40 when I get it. :)

[Dino451]

go to HPI's web site and go to instructions and look for the super. It shows you how to switch the things you need to switch. It basically flipping the arms around,Thats it.

[wilson_bryant]

i finally got some run time in with my 2 speed(after having it for over a month). but i was usin the Fe so it was short lived.

i love it, it is cool when it shifts. the screw that holds on the carb loosened and fell off. hopfully i will be getting a new engine soon, how is the new hpi .12??

[tphss]

Today I ran my super nitro RS4 on my local track, my engine (CV-R Pull start .12) doesn't seem to have almost no power, specially no accelaration (corners, BAH), and the car is a slow poke. :mad: !

I hope it's the original exhaust that kills the engine, so ill try installing a touring style pipe. :rolleyes:


Anyway, what I need is, someone that knows about this car, and can tell me what MANIFOLD will fit a SIDE EXHAUST engine with PULL START on a HPI Super Nitro RS4. :confused: :confused:

I need a manifold that will be big\wide\long enough to be able to fit a side pipe although I have pull start.

Thanks alot.

:)

[Interstate]

Maybe yall could help me out with this one: I put a t-maxx lightwieght clutch on my sirio .18 and the HPI clutch is too big for the pins. Would frankensteining some traxxas parts fix this; i.e. a t-maxx clutch and bell. I'd really like to see the sirio screaming in the SNRS4 before old man winter comes...

[peterl944]

Can you just use an HPI flywheel?

[peterl944]

Originally posted by peterl944
Next up on the list is a custom cnc'd carbon fiber chassis. I am just waiting for the material, this company has been jerking me around for like 3 weeks now. I am thinking that this thing may even keep up with my serpent Vector, at least on a short track. I am breaking it in tommorow and will find out I guess. By the way if anyone ever needs anything custom machined, send me a PM and maybe I could help you out.

Finally finished the carbon fiber chassis, so far it works real well, very stiff and very light. I got the material from ACP Composites, the outer laminates are supposed to be this stuff that doesn't fray when it is machined. It worked OK, but I would've rather had the CF look I think.

[peterl944]

I also made the parts to do the 2 speed conversion using the associated parts like wolfgang makes. I really enjoy making things like this and the chassis and just working on the car. I deffinetly like working on it more than running it, it seems like anything and everything that can go wrong will. I was racing it this morning and got through the 2 qualifiers great, the car is an absolute animal, it's faster and handles better than anything else that was there. Then all the sudden the thing would not hold a tune, about 2 weeks ago I think I ran the thing a bit hot for a little bit but for the 2 qualifiers it was fine. So after messing with it for a while and it not running right I put it on the starter box one last time and I hear all this clacking noise. Nedless to say I smoked the motor, the upper brass bushing on the connecting rod was totally gone and there was metal particles all through the motor. DAMNIT, so now I need con rod, piston/sleeve, head button and I think I will get new crank bearings. I guess I should've listened to their advice to put a new conrod in after break in. OH well, the joys of this marvelous hobby.

[peterl944]

from the top

[peterl944]

Last one,

Serpent 835 Lola body

Fits very well, just a little wide

[tphss]

My clutch bell is too far from the 2 gear spur gears, and I can't make it any closer.

Anyway, I dont have enough power with the corrent gear setup.

I am running a 13/18 bell and 44/?? gears.

Can you suggest on a bigger bell? or different spur gears?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tphss
My clutch bell is too far from the 2 gear spur gears, and I can't make it any closer.

Anyway, I dont have enough power with the corrent gear setup.

I am running a 13/18 bell and 44/?? gears.

Can you suggest on a bigger bell? or different spur gears?

I think the Wolfpack Adjustable Motor mount will solve the problem, I ran thru that one with my SG crank and I can't do it with that mount.

I think 13/18 is a little too much.....too big of a different UNLESS you have some powerfull $$$ engine..otherwise, get 13/16 instead.....sounds like you need some low-end back and I know 13T is GOOD ENOUGH (you don't want any lower like 12T cause there are chance the bell with rub the 2-speed hub)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by peterl944
Last one,

Serpent 835 Lola body

Fits very well, just a little wide

Good work........I bet having a CNC machine does have the advantage......

If you want to ride the LOLA from Serpent........do the 1/8th rear tires conversion too......that way it will eliminate the GAP of the wide body, and your rear trackion should be monster.....

Carbon fiber chassis..........good work, but on NITRO engine especially 12 engine...? I really don't know..........when I temp my MT-12 on my SNRS4 stock chassis........engine read 235 and chassis read 150.....that means the alum chassis does take some heat from the engine so the engine won't read 350 degree.......I know Carbon fiber will not take any heat, and for real, you don't want to ADD any heat on carbon fiber.........

If you have 15 big block or 21 big block, it is better.......cause engine like that will not get HOT like 12 small block.

[tphss]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I think the Wolfpack Adjustable Motor mount will solve the problem, I ran thru that one with my SG crank and I can't do it with that mount.

I think 13/18 is a little too much.....too big of a different UNLESS you have some powerfull $$$ engine..otherwise, get 13/16 instead.....sounds like you need some low-end back and I know 13T is GOOD ENOUGH (you don't want any lower like 12T cause there are chance the bell with rub the 2-speed hub)


how much is that motor mount? and good you are telling me I was going to buy a 11/14 bell.

Not an expensive engine, O.S. CV-RX .12, maybe I should put other then less teech on the bell, more teeth on the spur gears of the transmission?

[peterl944]

The carbon fiber can deal with the heat just fine. It is laminated with epoxy I believe, if not it is vinyl ester resin and either resin can withstand very high temps. When either epoxy or vinyl ester is curing the amount of heat just produced from that is unbelievable, I think something like 300°+.

Rookie, I do absolutely see what you are saying. I hadn't even thought of the heat sinknig properties of the chassis. Now that you bring that up that is probably why I overheated the motor last week, I never changed the tuning from when it was mounted on the stock aluminum. I don't think it will be a problem in the future though, I will just back off on the needle a bit, and if it comes down to it I may just have to make some kind of big heat sink engine mount.

I ended up just buying basically a new motor today. I priced all the parts I had lsited above and it was a lot, then the guy from CRC told me they had a few motors that were shipped without carb's on them and he sold me one of them for a good price.

As far as running the 1/8 rears, I had thought of that, but remember I am only running a .12 and that's a lot of meat to spin, plus I don't like the diameter difference, my Vector and all 1/8's are geared different front to back to compensate for that. I really don't care about the over hang anyway, actually I think it works to my advantage when there is some full contact racing going on.

And Razor what's with the attitude man? You could've politley corrected him, instead you jump down his throat. Is there some kind of past scuffle between you 2 I don't know about?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by peterl944
Rookie, I do absolutely see what you are saying. I hadn't even thought of the heat sinknig properties of the chassis. Now that you bring that up that is probably why I overheated the motor last week, I never changed the tuning from when it was mounted on the stock aluminum. I don't think it will be a problem in the future though, I will just back off on the needle a bit, and if it comes down to it I may just have to make some kind of big heat sink engine mount.


Yes, again, I was trying to say is....carbon fiber would not be the best thing to have for nitro car's chassis...........when I finished racing my 835 at the mid-west series last month, my 4 years old enigne ran 250 and the chassis was RED HOT........at that moment, I can tell my engine mount and the chassis DOES draw a lot of heat from the chassis.

And you said your engine was over heated.....again, I am not going to say CARBON FIBER chassis is the cause, but I am sure it does help you to increase heat since the heat from the engine, transfer to engine mount, but then, it cannot be absort or spread thru the chassis due to the material......I think you can try to do this as a research and see can CARBON FIBER chassis have any future in nitro car's chassis materila.

But I believe one thing...........if CF is any good for Nitro car, ppl like Serpent and other will use them 10 15 years ago........they are dirt cheap, in fact, it might be cheaper then 7075....

The closest thing I can remember so far is the old Serpent Veteq 2 with the carbon fiber chassis BRACE as the option......and I don't see and hear any good feedback for that.

[tphss]

You are going off the subject of the forum people..

[peterl944]

Well, I am gonna deffinetly pay good attention to the temps while breaking in the new motor. If I can not get the motor to perform well with out over heating I guess I will scrap the CF. If that ends up happening I think I will go with Titanium like Hardcore racing's or 7075. I already have the program all set, so it's just a matter of what material I fixture up (though, carbide tooling will be in order for the titanium.). It was really just an experiment, something different to try. Oh, by the way, CF is a lot more expensive than aluminum, even 7075, I would say it is more on par with titanium.

[Walt]

Razornmt, could you please post some links to sources explaining where carbon fiber is used in F1 engines? I am an engine designer (albeit diesel engines, not F1 race engines), and the only carbon fiber use in any engine that I've ever heard of was for push rods, but, of course, that would not be in a modern F1 engine. You say it's smooth with high hat (I think you meant 'heat') abilities, implying it's use would be as a bearing, piston, cylinder wall, camshaft or some other 'sliding' part? I'd like to see some more information on that please (and not just more of you talking... until you cite some sources on this one I'm not believing your story).

And I think you need to relax on this topic a little. All Rookie was saying is that carbon fiber might not be a very good choice for a nitro vehicle because the chassis acts like a heat sink and radiator for the engine, and for those reasons, aluminum is a better choice. He makes a good point that if carbon fiber were better, we'd be seeing it on nitro vehicles from the likes of Serpent, Mugen, Associated, etc. It's not like they don't have the 'technology'. Carbon fiber chassis have been around forever on electric cars. There is a reason why they don't use CF on nitro cars, and it is probably the engine heat issue.

And I think the point of this forum is to share knowledge, and Rookie has a lot of it. In fact, the first carbon fiber nitro car chassis I ever saw was on one of Rookie's cars several years ago... he gave up on it and went back to aluminum after he couldn't get the engine to run cool with it. He speaks from experience, and the rest of us are glad he's here to share his wisdom.

If you can't be friendly and open minded on this forum, please find a new one.

[Troy Lyman]

There are two main reasons why companies stay away from using CF for Nitro Chassis. The first is the heat distribution properties of the aluminum. Not only is it a good conductor of heat, but it has a TON of cool fresh air moving over it...or rather UNDER it. There is no other piece of metal on the car that gets that much air running over it with the exception of the engine head itself (and this is only if you have good air flow directed over it). Even placing a heat sink of some sort as an engine mount, while improving heat distribution, would not make up for this massive flow of air.

The second, and possibly most overlooked reason, is that while the chassis is heavy...it is LOW. Think about it, if you take a car, remove the aluminum chassis and add a CF chassis, you have LOWERED the overall weight of the car but you've RAISED the cassis center of gravity!!! You took a lot of weight off at the very lowest point of the car!!! Unless you do an equal amount of weight reduction up high on the car you may throw off your car's handling or even find that you will have to add weight to the chassis!

Of course, there are cost issues with aluminum as well but you'll notice that even on the high end pro cars their chassis are still aluminum, this is why.

Just adding a little nitro to the fire. :D

Troy

[Rookie Solara]

Regarding the cost of CARBON FIBER and Alum/Titanium........I don't have a 100% answer for that, but in CHINA, a sheet of 4mm carbon fiber is very similar (cost) then a good quality 7075 and definitely cheaper then Titanium........

I am not 100% sure, but I am sure most of the carbon fiber we have seen in state are fabricated from china...........I brought a sheet of 4mm precut carbon fiber (24x36) for $20 US.

Walt........haha, you remembered my Serpent IMPULSE and IMPACT 4mm carbon fiber chassis? Yeah.........my Impulse with small block 12 engine (MT-12 Nova Rossi), NOT A CHANCE........280 constantly and it was WAY RICH (cannot be more rich, car was slow as hell)....my Impact with big block 15 (RB) a lot better..........250 average and engine can still run great........however, once I get the ALum chassis back on, I can lean the engine 1/2 turn in more and still keeping the 250 temperature.

But one thing I cannot denied...............Carbon FIBER does looks good.............and you can barely see the scratches....LOL

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ebay/impactparts/P0003498.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tphss
how much is that motor mount? and good you are telling me I was going to buy a 11/14 bell.

Not an expensive engine, O.S. CV-RX .12, maybe I should put other then less teech on the bell, more teeth on the spur gears of the transmission?

That motor mount is called "Big BLOCK conversion kit", you have to buy them as a package with flywheel and such, I think it was about $60, you will have everything that you need.

I am not sure 11/14 is good for you, I just think 11T is a little too low........I have great result on 13/16T, 12/15T got me some clearence problem.

OS CVR is great engine......long lasting and still have acceptable speed.

[tphss]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Regarding the cost of CARBON FIBER and Alum/Titanium........I don't have a 100% answer for that, but in CHINA, a sheet of 4mm carbon fiber is very similar (cost) then a good quality 7075 and definitely cheaper then Titanium........

I am not 100% sure, but I am sure most of the carbon fiber we have seen in state are fabricated from china...........I brought a sheet of 4mm precut carbon fiber (24x36) for $20 US.

Walt........haha, you remembered my Serpent IMPULSE and IMPACT 4mm carbon fiber chassis? Yeah.........my Impulse with small block 12 engine (MT-12 Nova Rossi), NOT A CHANCE........280 constantly and it was WAY RICH (cannot be more rich, car was slow as hell)....my Impact with big block 15 (RB) a lot better..........250 average and engine can still run great........however, once I get the ALum chassis back on, I can lean the engine 1/2 turn in more and still keeping the 250 temperature.

But one thing I cannot denied...............Carbon FIBER does looks good.............and you can barely see the scratches....LOL

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ebay/impactparts/P0003498.jpg


Can I buy that chassis anywhere? or it's handmade?

[tphss]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
That motor mount is called "Big BLOCK conversion kit", you have to buy them as a package with flywheel and such, I think it was about $60, you will have everything that you need.

I am not sure 11/14 is good for you, I just think 11T is a little too low........I have great result on 13/16T, 12/15T got me some clearence problem.

OS CVR is great engine......long lasting and still have acceptable speed.

Big block convertion kit is to make it a wolfradical with a .21 engine no? it's too expensive for me... I need the mount only, if it's 60$ it's fine, but I can't seem to find what you are talking about.

and by clearence problem you mean between the clutch bell to the 2 gear transmission? that is what I have now with a 13/18!

[Saboteur]

Awesome chassis Rookie! :eek: :)

[Rookie Solara]

Ha ha....thanks guys, yeah, that is a full Mesh Carbon Fiber for my Serpent Impulse and Impact, and I will put her on ebay soon, cause I am running NTC3 and 835 now, I don't need them anymore........

Oh, tphss.....why do you want to buy that....? They don't make one for SNRS4............that one is for Sepent Impact....it is not hand cut, I brought them from Hong Kong (it is from GPM)...and it is for SHOW only....LOL.

Tphss......ok, the reason WP designed that motor mount is for those who want to do OVERSIZED engine conversion, like big block 15 and 21 and......for those who use small block 12 engine with SG crank (like me)........because the size of the block and crank, you have to SLIDE the engine (15 and 21) further back (toward the exhaust direction) or toward right (toward 2-speed gear box for SG crank small block)in order for you to let the clutch/gears teach the 2-speed........and that adjustable mount can let you slide left and right on the chassis.......very very cool design (see pic)

As you can see, the stock engine mount cannot MOVE the engine FAR enough to reach the 2-speed gear box.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003352.JPG

With the WP motor mount, I can slide the engine to RIGHT so I can reach the 2-speed.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/2speed/EX000001.JPG

These are the motor mount kits and the custom 2-speed gear box conversion sponcered by Wolfgang himself.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003360.JPG

And these are the final result....

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003363.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003364.JPG

[tphss]

cool Rookie, thanks alot.

[Redneck Basher]

Nice pics RS.

How do you like the Wolfpack/Associated 2-speed??
Are there any specific advantages to using it??

(I'm not a huge fan of the HPI version but it seems to work well enough provided you give it maintenance now and again.)

RB

[Rookie Solara]

HPI finger type 2 speed..........simple to use, and the shifting point are very obvious (You can see and hear it when it shift)....the problem is, too obvious.....when the finger kicks in the 2nd gear, the different are too much, and it usually happened (to me) when I am ready to enter the corner, once it got shift, my car will spin out...and no matter how I adjust it, it never performance like the 2 shoes type clutch.

Wolfpack type = typical 2 shoes type cause he actually use the NTC3 clutch shoes....it can be shift from 1st to 2nd really smoothly, instead of the instant action like the HPI.........the problem I have is.....seems like the gears (hpi stock) cannot mesh with the NTC3 2 speed clutch shoes very nicely.......I experienced late (very late) shift or sometimes NO SHIFT at all on 12 engine.....15 and 21 engine does not have that problem due to the HP...but small block 12, my friend have to cut the springs inside the shoes a little shorter, so they can shift faster (cause 12 engine does not have the output like 15 and 21).........from my friends oberservation, that is due to the factor that NTC3 are using smaller spur and finner gear tooth (48 pitch instead of 32).....and there are some shore of things that we don't know how to explaint that the WP 2 speed are hard to shift unless we have to cut the springs or using SOFTER springs so it can shift.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I experienced late (very late) shift or sometimes NO SHIFT at all on 12 engine.....15 and 21 engine does not have that problem due to the HP...but small block 12, my friend have to cut the springs inside the shoes a little shorter, so they can shift faster (cause 12 engine does not have the output like 15 and 21).........from my friends oberservation, that is due to the factor that NTC3 are using smaller spur and finner gear tooth (48 pitch instead of 32).....

I don't think that the pitch has anything to do with it, but here is the issue. The Associated 2-speed was (presumably) designed to work within the range of gears available for the NTC3. Turns out that there is no over lap between the available gear ratios (pinion/spur) for the NTC3 and the Super Nitro. That's actually pretty amazing when you think about it. The lowest numerical 1st gear ratio for the Super is the 14/44 combo, at 3.14:1. The highest numerical 1st gear ratio for the NTC3 is the 20/54 combo at 2.70:1.

So, if the NTC3 2-speed was designed to work in the range of 2.26:1 up to 2.70:1 when they picked the springs, masses, etc., it makes sense that it wouldn't necessarily work in the Super Nitro's range of 3.14 up to 4.18.

The reason the ratios are so different is because the Super Nitro has the much bigger wheels and less 'final drive' ratio than the NTC3.

Anyway, I found that I couldn't back out the adjustment screws enough to get it to shift where I wanted it to shift, so I cut the last coil off each of the adjustment springs, and now I can adjust it properly.

[Rookie Solara]

Walt.......thanks for the clarification, even though I still don't quite understand the whole concept, but you are the mechanical engineer........I am sure you are more "CORRECT" then I do.....:D

[Walt]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Walt.......thanks for the clarification, even though I still don't quite understand the whole concept, but you are the mechanical engineer........I am sure you are more "CORRECT" then I do.....:D

Let me try explaining it this way instead. The 2-speed shifts at a specific intermediate shaft rotational speed (the shaft that the spur gears is riding on). For any given vehicle speed, that shaft is spinning much faster in the NTC3 than in the Super Nitro because of the size of the tires and the 'final drive' ratio differences between the cars.

So, if you set the NTC3 2-speed to shift at a particular vehicle speed, that will be at a very high shaft speed. Put that same 2-speed setting into the Super and you can never get to that high of a shaft speed in first gear to get the thing to shift.

[Redneck Basher]

Thanks for the insights Rookie & Walt,

Sounds like you guys have it pretty well figured out and both agree with the tweak needed to make it work well in the super nitro. I'll have to add that to my list of needed upgrades.

I'll probably go ahead and get that before I get the foam tire kit.

[peterl944]

Well, I went back to the drawing board on a custom chassis. Gonna scrap the CF (if anybody wants to try it though I will sell it real cheap). Here's the design I came up with. All of the hole locations were determined on a CMM. The chassis will be .160" (~4mm) thick, cut out of 7075 T6. I ordered quite a large piece of material. I am gonna make one or two for my self and one for a friend of mine so far and I may make some more for selling, I will keep you posted if interested. I will most likely have the whole batch anodized at once in gunmetal grey, but if somebody's looking for something else maybe we can work something out. Let me know what you guys think of the design.

[Rookie Solara]

That is something I am very interested to have........after the HPI Michigan race, I realized that my chassis is pointing to 4 different direction..........it is so NOT FLAT.

I think 4mm 7075 (6) does have on this issue.............

Looking forward to see that.........

[peterl944]

Rookie, thanks for the interest. I know what you mean by pointing in 4 different directions, my old original one was very tweaked, that's actually what got me going on the CF chassis. Probably late next week or early in the week after I will have the first batch done, then they will go out to the anodizer which will probably be another week. So in about 3-5 weeks I could get you one. I am really in no rush since the racing season is over here anyway, so I basically have all winter to get my car ready. Depending on what the anodizer feels like charging me, i will probably be looking to get about $40-$50 for the chassis.

I am also working on another design which converts to side belt to put the tank in the center, only it would stick with 75cc to remain compliant with hpi rules. I don't think this would be something I would sell as it is gonna require quite a lot of other little things.

I will keep you posted and you are on the top of the list right now if you're still interested.

[Rookie Solara]

Pete.........about your other CHASSIS idea, unless you are not planning to race at HPI challenge, which you said you have to use the 75cc tank so you can be use in HPI challenge........you cannot convert your SNRS4 to side belt system, that is against the chassis structure rules listed on the HPI challlenge rule...

You can do that just for fun or local track racing.

Wolfpack already have something similar to your design, which is illegal to use on HPi challenge.

[peterl944]

Oh, really, that's good to know. Anyway I didn't plan to race in the HPI challenge (I don't think they do anything here in CT with HPI anyway). The local track I race at (basically a course set up in a parking lot in front of the hobby shop) came up with some rules and passed them out a couple months back. I thought they were copied from the HPI rules but I guess not. Ba