HPI Super Nitro Rs4

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Yeah that's it( the EVO II) and it comes with pull start. One thing I'd do is swap for a slide carb. My M16 in the Neo TNT is quite fast...even faster than before when I ran a different plug, fuel, and ported the manifold. I was thinking of just staying with SE's for now and probably look into something with more HP than my current engine as well as rpm. If it does, and can par with the other powerful SE engines today, I'll get it. The Picco (Xp and rcspeed), and CX12 are listed with about the same amount of HP and rpm. I've seen the Evo II in an old catalog with some interesting stats, which is why I wanted to check it out. Have you tried that engine in a sedan other than the Super? It would be cool to have a lighter, faster engine and be race legal at the same time. :) A RE is tempting but just a bit costly at the moment. :( An SE non p/s engine w/ starter box will cost me a lot less and do just nicely.

My Evo II has a slide carb and is a non-ps. Never ran it in 1/10th scale sedan, just the super. My NTC3 has a $99.00 SE Fantom but it was good enough to win 8 out of 8 races at our track last season. The Evo II tho has been a great motor, just a little pricy when I got it. It will be interesting to see how long the cheap Fantom lasts versus the Evo II.

[Saboteur]

Yeah I believe this is what's in my LHS:

HPI Nitro Star Pro .12R RC Evolution II Pull Start
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAAE3&P=0

Or this one...
1905 NITRO STAR PRO 12R SC
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLP00&P=0

With all the fuss about trying to go for a good side exhaust, engine I may just end up buying a RE, especially if tower will take some cash depending on how much you purchase. I know its off topic but hows a .12tr compared to an MT12? From RCCA I heard it can just about hang with the mt12 but from other racers the os just doesnt have the "umph" like the mugen engine. BTW, I'm still thinking of a SN kit for later on.

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Yeah I believe this is what's in my LHS:

HPI Nitro Star Pro .12R RC Evolution II Pull Start
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAAE3&P=0

Or this one...
1905 NITRO STAR PRO 12R SC
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLP00&P=0


First One (1909): is a PS Evo II. Carb in the pic on Tower looks wrong tho lol.
Second One (1905): is NOT an Evo II. It's a plain SC. Less hp. The carb in this pic IS the correct Evo II carb tho lol.

Mine is a (1906): 12R SC Evo II Non-PS. It looks exactly like the 1905 pic on Tower.

If your LHS has the 1909 and you wanna stick to SE and want a PS, I would highly recommend that motor. But if it's not an Evo II, I would look elsewhere.

[peterl944]

you should be able to get any bearing you need from bocabearing.com. Even if they don't have that motor listed, I'm sure all you will have to do is match up the size.

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by peterl944
you should be able to get any bearing you need from bocabearing.com. Even if they don't have that motor listed, I'm sure all you will have to do is match up the size.

Hey thanks for the tip! I'll check 'em out and keep them in mind in case I ever loose an Evo II bearing. :)

[Saboteur]

Ok Hooked up, I'll check it out on monday. It seems to have the same stats as a Picco .12rc speed. I've seen a picco .15 run a while back and it was pretty good. I'm sure with a slide carb and my ported manifold the EVO II would run even better. :)

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Ok Hooked up, I'll check it out on monday. It seems to have the same stats as a Picco .12rc speed. I've seen a picco .15 run a while back and it was pretty good. I'm sure with a slide carb and my ported manifold the EVO II would run even better. :)

It's worth looking at for sure. There are definately more powerful .12's out there now but it's a good reliable motor that hasn't had any trouble pushing my Super around. It's a tough decision though. For only a little more cash I might be tempted to put a Sirio or something with more hp in my Super next time around. Then again, the Evo II has been a great motor and I'd be content with another one.

[Saboteur]

Yeah, its a little hard to leave my M16 just yet as I have only ran about 19 tanks through it. Its still fast enough to probably keep up with that HPI engine or Picco though. Truthfully it may just be enough power I need for now. Thought of converting it to a bump start. I just need to go to the city, get the parts as well as stuff for my car and a starter box. A new engine and all wouldnt be worth it as if something breaks, I'd be lucked out.

[tphss]

Weee,

I got my Wolf Radical's .21 Conversion!
Soon gonna buy a RB C7 on-road engine, and all aluminum arms (I snapped a fornt arm in a small crash, sucky plastic).

My car will be all hoped-up! all Carbon fiber & Aluminum and a powerhouse :D

Can't wait. :D

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by tphss
Weee,

I got my Wolf Radical's .21 Conversion!
Soon gonna buy a RB C7 on-road engine, and all aluminum arms (I snapped a fornt arm in a small crash, sucky plastic).

My car will be all hoped-up! all Carbon fiber & Aluminum and a powerhouse :D

Can't wait. :D

Cool, post some pics when it's all hopped up.

[SN VipeR]

I wouldn't get aluminum arms. If a plastic arm is snapped by a crash, the same crash would surely bend the aluminum arm and you'll end up replacing it for four times the cost.

There is no RB C7 Engine!

[PCC]

For a SNRS4 to run a powerful .21 engine you will need to get custom-made belts to take the power. The stock belts will snap from the torque. I've seen a new rear belt snap from the power of a ported .15.

[tphss]

Originally posted by SN VipeR
I wouldn't get aluminum arms. If a plastic arm is snapped by a crash, the same crash would surely bend the aluminum arm and you'll end up replacing it for four times the cost.

There is no RB C7 Engine!

It wasn't a very rough crash, aluminum wouldn't even think of benting in a crash like that.

Here is a RB S7C (my bad) for you:

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_146_152_154&products_id=2876&osCsid=dc643a109a517a110a2c394e406cea30

[tphss]

Originally posted by PCC
For a SNRS4 to run a powerful .21 engine you will need to get custom-made belts to take the power. The stock belts will snap from the torque. I've seen a new rear belt snap from the power of a ported .15.

Didn't think of that, good point, wierd Wolf radicals didn't mention it...

Where can I get stronger belts same size? only custom? who makes belt like these? :confused:

[H-Trainer]

Originally posted by tphss
Didn't think of that, good point, wierd Wolf radicals didn't mention it...

Yeah, it would be weird if Wolfgang hadn't thought of this ;)

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/kevlar_belts.html

"set of 3 Kevlar backed belts for conversion $22.00"

Have you seen the beautiful chassis and other pretty parts? http://www.SwissWpr.ch.vu/teile.html

[tphss]

Originally posted by H-Trainer
Yeah, it would be weird if Wolfgang hadn't thought of this ;)

http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/kevlar_belts.html

"set of 3 Kevlar backed belts for conversion $22.00"

Have you seen the beautiful chassis and other pretty parts? http://www.SwissWpr.ch.vu/teile.html

thanks! and thanks for that site.

I'm going to order serpent wheels adapter, some belts and maybe the aluminum servo mounts.

[RandyT]

You might want to consider Proceed adapters. Proceed tires are the same size as Super Nitro tires. The only problem would be this seems like one of the few places that sells them, but their prices aren't bad. http://www.deltainc-usa.com/deltatires427.htm
With Serpent tires, since they are different sizes, the car will push through turns. Just a thought for you. Good luck.

[tphss]

Originally posted by RandyT
You might want to consider Proceed adapters. Proceed tires are the same size as Super Nitro tires.
With Serpent tires, since they are different sizes, the car will push through turns.

Hmm,
What do you mean same SIZE? the proceed tyres are much wider, you mean same diameter?

And as for changing the wheel size, i'll compensate by changing gear ratios.

[RandyT]

They are the same diameter as the Super Nitro Tires and they are equal diameter front and back. I tried the pulley change, I believe it's a Traxxas 20 tooth, but ended up melting the bearing into the mid block since the pulley isn't a exact fit. If you try it on the outer belt, the belt needs to be stretched or worn in before you can do it.

[PCC]

Serpent adapters with front 1/8 wheels and tires all around will do it.

[RandyT]

It works but just doesn't have that bite that the big rear tires give.

[tphss]

Hmm,

Well now, with stock tires and .12 OS engine my steering and grip and handeling just suck ass.

After all my mods it will change greatly I certainly hope so...

So what do you say, is there any problems fitting wide 1/8 serpent rear wheels at the rear of a super nitro with the adapters?

Anyway, I will use a LOLA body to fit the back tires width.

[RandyT]

Here are pics of my car.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80553&perpage=25&pagenumber=17

With Serpent rears you need to use the 300 mm wheel base or your header won't clear and with the Wolfpack Conversion the tire rubs the side pulley. I narrowed the rear end so it will fit under the GT-One body. You will need the GT-One or a Lola body for the downforce. Any other body, the handling is less then satisfactory (Other then the Escudo with major body modifications, too much downforce)

[tphss]

ok use the 300mm base is no problem... I'm using it now with my Toyota GT1 body...

But what else? i need to cut a bit of the inner wheel/tyre?
it won't fit just slip on?

[SN VipeR]

You'll find that a better steering servo and some 27R slicks will give you enough performance to maybe substitute the foam tires.
Since they are wasted on parking lots anyway if that's where you drive.
A tuned pipe will give quite a performance boost as well if you're still running the "beer keg" muffler.

[RandyT]

Look under Super Nitro RS4 narrow rear track

http://www.rcrage.com/

This will get the tires under the GT-One Body, but they use Proceed tires. You have to cut the body all the way to the top of the body around the rear tires, and with the Serpent tires, I had to trim the inside on a tire truer so it wouldn't rub on shock mount. If you the rear end stock, the tires stick way out.

SN VipeR: He's going to do the .21 Wolfpack Conversion, so as you know, the stock tires won't last a run.

[tphss]

Originally posted by SN VipeR
You'll find that a better steering servo and some 27R slicks will give you enough performance to maybe substitute the foam tires.
Since they are wasted on parking lots anyway if that's where you drive.
A tuned pipe will give quite a performance boost as well if you're still running the "beer keg" muffler.

I know that's an old picture, I switched this car with a friend and he gave me the old muffler...
I said i'll just wait till I upgrade to .21 and then ill buy a whole new exhaust system...
BTW, check my email, I explained about all the rest.

And a question for the people that converted to a .21 engine from .12, what engines do you have? is a RB S7C too strong? just want to see what people with big clock conversion use and how is the car handeling.

[tphss]

Originally posted by RandyT
Look under Super Nitro RS4 narrow rear track

http://www.rcrage.com/

This will get the tires under the GT-One Body, but they use Proceed tires. You have to cut the body all the way to the top of the body around the rear tires, and with the Serpent tires, I had to trim the inside on a tire truer so it wouldn't rub on shock mount. If you the rear end stock, the tires stick way out.

SN VipeR: He's going to do the .21 Wolfpack Conversion, so as you know, the stock tires won't last a run.

Well,
same thing with the front proceed tires I can do with wolf's serpent adaptors and all around front serpent wheels can't I?

I will have both foam and 27R tires anyway...

[SN VipeR]

Originally posted by RandyT
SN VipeR: He's going to do the .21 Wolfpack Conversion, so as you know, the stock tires won't last a run.

That's why I recommended the belted 27Rs. I ran them for some time with my .21 super. If glued on correctly they should be alright if you're not going for Steve Pond's record.

[RandyT]

Serpent front tires are about the same diameter or smaller then regular 1/10 scale tires. I've tried it, but like in a earlier post, it doesn't have the grip like the big rear tires. And you will have to purchase only front adapters from Wolfgang. Without the big tires and proper downforce, the car's rear end doesn't stick, and will just swish back and forth as you drive it. I have a Novarossi TOP PT 21 SP1. It's rated at 2.33 HP which isn't much for a .21, and it's more then enough to smoke the tires. After discussions with Wolfgang, I would have to agree with him, that a .21 is too much in the car, a less powerful big block 15 (I know there are BB .15 that put out as much or more then some .21's, something in the less than 2HP would probably be better) is probably more user friendly.

SN VipeR:

Really, I use to split the HPI tires after one or two tanks, had to stop using them cause I couldn't afford new sets of tires all the time.

[tphss]

Well so I'll try both 27R's and regular Serpent tyre setup (wide rear..).

I'm buying most likely a RB concent S7C engine (a road version of the popular S7).

[Saboteur]

Hey Hooked up, LHS is outta .12s for now but he should be getting more of them and other's soon. This engine (HPI .12 Evo II) seems to be as powerful as a picco .12 but more reliable. Need to double check if he has parts so I can buy it. One day this engine is on tower and in a few day's its already discontinued. Strange huh? :confused:

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Hey Hooked up, LHS is outta .12s for now but he should be getting more of them and other's soon. This engine (HPI .12 Evo II) seems to be as powerful as a picco .12 but more reliable. Need to double check if he has parts so I can buy it. One day this engine is on tower and in a few day's its already discontinued. Strange huh? :confused:

The Evo II engines has been available for quite some time (2+ years) but has been discontinued by HPI for a while now. They're probably getting harder and harder to find. Parts for them seem to be getting harder to find too. Stormer has the piston & sleeve set for them but that's about it:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=HPI1953

Because parts are getting hard to find for the Evo IIs you might want to consider something else if you plan to use it for a while because who knows if you'll be able to find what you need for it down the road when you want to rebuild it. It's a great engine so it's too bad they discontinued it but the good news is there are a whole slew of great engines out there right now. I run a $99 Fantom FR12 in my NTC3. For the price it's hard to beat and nobody could beat my NTC3 last season - I won all 8 out of 8 races with it. :) Because the super is so heavy though I would probably skip Fantom and look into something rated with a little more power like a Sirio or Novarossi .12 or .15 for it.

[jogrin]

Hi everyone

I m trying to contact Wolfgang since a couple of weeks and still no answer from him, i m a little worried cause usually he answers one or two day after,i hope everythink is all right.
could one of you, being customer from Wolfpack as me,tell me if you received an answer mail recently from him.

Thanks to all

:rolleyes:

[Saboteur]

Hooked up- I'm waiting for the LHS to be open. Lil bastards arent picking up the phone and saying the store is closed when its not. Not sure if I should skip the starter box and buy the XP12 w/ ps @ tower for $124.99. Needs a slide carb for my onroad though. Hopefully the M16 carb can fit or I'd buy an OS carb.

[Saboteur]

Hooked up-If the LHS doesnt have it, I'll look at something else. It may all come down to the .12TR again with other gear. I'm not sure if I'll visit the city again soon for Neo parts, or sell my ride for something else. I havent broken anything on my NEO, even when I flipped it at 40mph, but spare parts are a must. As for a new engine, it's something I must think about. Probably get a deal when I go into the city or so. Not sure when I'm going either. :(

[Rookie Solara]

HPI rubber tires question......since I decided NOT to sell the SNRS4, I would like to know what HPI rubber are GOOD to use, on WARM to HOT condition....

On my last HPI challenge, I was using the 33R with LOW-BOUNCE insert all around.......with my small block Nova Mega, I found all corners of my rubber "BALLOON" big time......

I thought all those BELTED insert are suppose to prevent that happening......am I using the wrong insert?

If that is the case....what color of insert I should try...? And I see pro like SN Viper and RandyT tried the 27R......is that for all 4 corners? What is your thought about that...?

I am definitely NOT the rubber person, they are expensive, doesn't get the performance like foam, but the rules of HPI challenge cannot be change.

[Saboteur]

Hey Rookie. Long time no see man. Have you tried the belted tires? Those dont use inserts but the type of rubber its made with prevents the tires from expanding under heavy acceleration. Non belted tires will balloon with no matter what inserts you put in there. The inserts just alter the amount of contact the tire will have on a surface. Kinda the same concept with real cars and how much air you put in them. I still run the stock radials on my Neo TNT. Now that they have some wear, they really do provide a lot of traction; its really hard to powerslide, or pitch it sideways on the asphalt. I thought of buying that HPI .12R XS RE motor. Heard its VERY powerful and great on low, mid, and top end speed (pretty much anything novarossi based is a screamer. I'm getting an R/C Club going at my HS and plan to use it for running about outside the high school. Offroad, we will run on the ball field. Them Orion slicks though seem pretty good to run later on, though they are 24mm( for $21.99 though) and I dont think they have offsets. I'd like to keep my ride @ 200mm. Oh well, dont need new tires for now though. :)

[RandyT]

The "R's" are belted, so it shouldn't ballon that badly, and sorry, it's been awhile since I've ran HPI Super Nitro tires. Do you have big enough air holes in the rims to let the air out~? The 27R's are softer than the 33R's so it might be worse. It's that or the NovaMega cranks out too much power for them.

[Rookie Solara]

Saboteur RandyT long time to see...........yeah, kinda switch over to the indoor electric now.......snow is coming to Chi town so no more Nitro untill next year....so the SNRS4 is on the shelf again.

Actually, all SNRS4 tires (except the stock one) are belted....and on HPI site, are there any rubber tires that are not belted? No one would use a non-belted tires.........but again, my 33R are just horrible, at the middle and the end of the straight, my car will lose control because of lack of traction, the reason is all 4 corners of my tires are ballooning big time that barely a little rubber are on the ground....again, I am using a small block 3-port MS Nova Mega....1.5HP only...Imagine, if I am using my OS 15RX or crazy enough to use 21, what will happen...?

And now...I think I have a new plan, use the STOCK engine, without the monster power, the tires should be able to have enough contact to the ground, and hope I can win something by SLOWING down the car.

When was the last time you hear someone screaming "I need to slow the car down ALOT......"?

[Interstate]

The 33R's balloon like mad?!? I wonder if teh same goes for C10-30's? Anyone know? BTW, I'm running a Sirio .18SC

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Saboteur RandyT long time to see...........yeah, kinda switch over to the indoor electric now.......snow is coming to Chi town so no more Nitro untill next year....so the SNRS4 is on the shelf again.

When was the last time you hear someone screaming "I need to slow the car down ALOT......"?

It snowed to day, but melted very quickly. I dont know when we are gonna get a big snow shower but till then, it's just a bit chilly outside and at times lots of wind. I'd have to have a meeting with the 8 people so far who's on the list for my R/C club to decide what we are gonna do.

[Mika]

Hi,
anybody has an opinion on the HPI 12R SC (not Pro) that Tower sells pretty cheap, for $65 or even less. Some quations about it:

- Does it leak like 15fe, I mean is the HPI oil catch a must ?
- Is it a direct fit to SN with HPI engine mounts ?

TIA,
-Mika

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Mika
Hi,
anybody has an opinion on the HPI 12R SC (not Pro) that Tower sells pretty cheap, for $65 or even less. Some quations about it:

- Does it leak like 15fe, I mean is the HPI oil catch a must ?
- Is it a direct fit to SN with HPI engine mounts ?

TIA,
-Mika

1. New engine always have some oil leak coming from the bearing (especially front bearing)....after the engine are broken in, it should not have oil leak problem.....don't need to worry about the case like 15fe, no one called that a "engine"....

2. Yes....and for $65, not bad at all. But don't expect 1HP engine can pull any horses on a big car like SNRS4.

[Mika]

Thanks Rookie!

[RandyT]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Saboteur RandyT long time to see...........yeah, kinda switch over to the indoor electric now.......snow is coming to Chi town so no more Nitro untill next year....so the SNRS4 is on the shelf again.
And now...I think I have a new plan, use the STOCK engine, without the monster power, the tires should be able to have enough contact to the ground, and hope I can win something by SLOWING down the car.

When was the last time you hear someone screaming "I need to slow the car down ALOT......"?

Hi Rookie: It's been awhile, you know I still miss the old HPI Forum there was always good info there. Have a good one.

P.S. The last time was when my brakes went out on my Super and almost took out my friend. :D

[Mika]

Decided to attach a picture of my new SN (big in size, hope you don't mind too much). It's the standard red 'n' white so nothing special there.

I've got 125cc fuel tank, HPI 2-speed, racing clutch, HPI heat sink & lightweight flywheel combo, HPI .12 engine (just ordered), MIP touring car pipe, alum hex hubs and foams .. othewise stock.

I was a fool to pay for the heat sink, very expensive.. I discovered later that HPI has a cheaper purple engine mounts, too.. hope those any good (=worth the money) and really helps in engine cooling.

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/toyota/2.jpg

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/toyota/4.jpg

[Mika]

Originally posted by jogrin
Hi everyone

I m trying to contact Wolfgang since a couple of weeks and still no answer from him, i m a little worried cause usually he answers one or two day after,i hope everythink is all right.
could one of you, being customer from Wolfpack as me,tell me if you received an answer mail recently from him.

Thanks to all

:rolleyes:

Hi, I'm trying to order the 2-speed from him; I'll let you know if I hear from him. Still no answer?

What gears do you use with the WPR 2-speed, gears from the HPI 1st gear adapter kit or something else?

TIA,
-Mika

[PCC]

You use standard HPI two-speed gears. Actually, you use the standard HPI HD first gear adapter, two-speed shaft, spur gears, and clutchbell with the WPR kit. WPR sells you only the second gear mount and the piece that mounts to the two-speed shaft that allows you to use the NTC3 two-speed clutchpack.

[Mika]

Allright, thanks PCC. Somebody advised to use another manufacturers gears instead of HPI, well..

Couple of pages back in this thread, people said this clutch conversion would work only with high speeds ie. requiring a .21 that can give enough rpm to the wheels so the Associated NTC3 clutch can shift .. and that it wouldn't shift with 1HP .12 engine because the wheels do not spin fast enough. Do you guys agree ? That you actually couldn't use this with sport .12 engines.

[PCC]

I think what was said was that the clutchpack needs higher speeds for the clutch mechanism to engage because the NTC3 is geared much taller, which means that the clutchpack is spinning at a higher speed before it engages. What I would do is to use lighter springs or weigh down the shoes (drill holes in the clutch material in non-stressed areas and epoxy some ballbearings in there) or both.

[Mika]

OK, lighter springs or making the shoe heavier so it would engage earlier. Thanks PCC.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Mika
Allright, thanks PCC. Somebody advised to use another manufacturers gears instead of HPI, well..

Couple of pages back in this thread, people said this clutch conversion would work only with high speeds ie. requiring a .21 that can give enough rpm to the wheels so the Associated NTC3 clutch can shift .. and that it wouldn't shift with 1HP .12 engine because the wheels do not spin fast enough. Do you guys agree ? That you actually couldn't use this with sport .12 engines.

I might have been the one who suggested the 'late shifting' problems... I have since found a solution. I cut one 'coil' from each shift adjustment spring and this gave me enough adjustability to get it to shift right where I want it do with any engine.

BUT, you still have to watch your clearance. Only certain combinations of ratios will allow the clutch bell to clear the second gear adapter... make sure you can see plenty of light between those two parts, or they will hit while you are driving. I think both of them expand a little while driving, because I set mine up with minimal clearance once and they interfered big time, destroying the 2nd gear adapter (aluminum versus the steel clutch bell).

[Mika]

That sounds great and an easy solution. Thanks Walt and others for assistance big time.
Cheers
-Mika

[Redneck Basher]

Great comments Walt. I had a similar experience with the WP 2-speed. Set-up & gear selection is key.

Rubber tire discussion... I've been using the HPI firm inserts on my front tires lately (they come as strips, rather than donuts and must be taped together). It was a little scary when I first tried them out because they are much firmer than the standard inserts. But they seem to work fine. The compound I'm using is the 27R (i think) which is pretty sticky. I think the firm inserts help, I've had less roll wear evident on the front tires so far and the handling is about the same maybe a little better.

I'd like to try the firm inserts on the 33R compound, that's what I'll try next.

Any comments ??

[tphss]

Some know's if I can fit Pro-Line's PF-1 LMP Body (1/8 LOLA) onto my Super Nitro RS4:

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proto.../1453/1453.html


And here is one of the stock bodies for the Super Nitro RS4:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXSE79&P=7


Thanks.

[Rookie Solara]

Your answer is NO....no 1/8th body will fit....I mean, of course, it will fit, only with the wheel well does not align correctly and the whole body are 10mm wider on both side...the whole car will look like a boat or tank.

Not even the 235mm Impact body will fit, not the wheel base, not the track width....but there are 2 problems, the body does not have the designed curve up area for the throttle servo, you will punch one big hole there for the throttle and brake linkage, then the hole for the tank on the side, then 2 more holes for the engine and the intake....the whole body are HOLES.

2nd, when using 1/8th size foams, unless you true the brand new $25 a pair foams to the smallest diameter and run for 1-2 races....the foams will rub the bottom of the body, on straight or turn position, unless you raise the body up more to have the clearence, then the whole body is like a SUV, absolutely ugly.

I try to mount my 835 body on my SNRS4 last night, doesn't work.

P.S. I wish Protoform made that body for 235mm or SNRS4, that is one sick VDS body.....but apparently, Lola VDS EVO2 is still the race approved body.

[Rookie Solara]

I think I will concentrate on the rubber tires issue when the next HPI challenge is around the corner.

About the WP 2-speed clutch issue, what Walt said is correct and well documented............I myself experience engine OVERHEAT issue on my SNRS4 with WP 2-speed versus with HPi single speed.......it overheat cause I have to GUN the engine on the straight but still cannot get the 2nd gear shifted...once I switch the transmission to single speed, my engine temperature is back to normal and a little faster....(note, I did not adjust the needle from these 2 testing.....) it is faster on single speed cause my gear on single is taller then the 1st gear of the 2-speed transmission.....that is also another piece of evidence that proved that when my car was equipped with the WP 2speed, my car was not shifting at all.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I think I will concentrate on the rubber tires issue when the next HPI challenge is around the corner.



On that note, I got an e-mail from Frank McKinney a couple weeks ago.. he's being transfered to HPI Europe (or somewhere) and doesn't know what will happen with the HPI Challenge USA next year. The HPI Challenge is the only reason I keep my HPI Super, and the only reason I'd buy an R40, so we'll have to see if they still have the Challenge in 2004 at all.

[tphss]

Anyway

Bimmer body it is rookie.

[SN VipeR]

I'm currently making a set of high-speed rubber tires. I used hard inserts and belted them on the outside with fiber glass cloth. No twisting those no matter how hard you pull.
I will also add an extra layer of cloth to the 27R tires to get ballooning to a minimum. I've used Kyosho rims as they're much more rigid than HPI's.
Pictures will follow.
Together with Wolfpack's high gearing (25T second gear pinion) I should be able to reach awesome speeds with my .21 SNR.

[JohnLeMVP]

Hey guys I've been out of it for awhile. I need recommendations for a cheap .15/.21 engine to put into my super nitro. I just want to bash so I don't need anything spectacular. Perferrabaly something that won't snap my belts into pieces.

[Redneck Basher]

John - I know of two decent motors that might fit your needs.

Trinity Picco makes a good small block .15, it has a rotary carb and a threaded shaft. It doesn't make that much power but it can keep up with most any .12 (with the right gearing) and it will bolt right in. This motor is around $120. at Tower.

Another candidate is the OS .15 RX, it's a big block and comes with a pilot shaft. You would need different (non HPI) motor mounts and it will be a little bit of a hassle to do the extra work to fit the pilot shaft motor, but the motor runs great for the price. It goes for $109. at Tower. (Wolf Pack Radicals makes an engine mount that will work and I believe Ofna makes a shim kit to help with the shaft conversion. With everything you should get out for less than $200.)

There are lots of options out there, probably some better than these. Good Luck.

[Toyotatogo]

What clutch shoes can you run with a .21 conversion supernitro setup ??? I am currently running the HPI racing clutch and keep breaking the springs out of roundness...

Snviper I purchased some 1/8 PMT tires from Austria belted on the sidewalls and inner wheel as you are doing with the hpi tires save yourself the trouble and get some already designed their only $13.00 Euros a pair try them out i will post some photos of the tires later

[Mika]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
John - I know of two decent motors that might fit your needs.
Another candidate is the OS .15 RX, it's a big block and comes with a pilot shaft. You would need different (non HPI) motor mounts and it will be a little bit of a hassle to do the extra work to fit the pilot shaft motor, but the motor runs great for the price. It goes for $109. at Tower. (Wolf Pack Radicals makes an engine mount that will work and I believe Ofna makes a shim kit to help with the shaft conversion. With everything you should get out for less than $200.)


Yes, I can say from the experience that the OS RX is great, especially for bashing (I had it on my Kyosho Super which is heavier than HPI Super). Great torque, great speed. Being bigBlock it lifts the CG a bit, but it won't matter in parking lot driving. You'll be surprised how fast engine it is after first tanks of running in. Loosen the plug when running in first tanks; it may be a bit hard to get started and keep it running first but after it will run steadily and is easy to tune. Very tight when new. Nice price, too!

[tphss]

I just bought the 15RX few days ago.
94$ at tower.
Mounts I got from wolf radicals (the .21 conversion)

[JohnLeMVP]

I use to run a JP black TX15 big block in my super so I have the WP .21 conversion motor mounts, ofna clutch nut kit for the SG shaft, and ofna clutch already. I have since sold the engine and just now getting back into the rc game. Been gone for over a year.

Anyone else have any motor suggestions? I want something with atleast 1.5HP

[Mika]

Well, I run the NovaRossi RS12T5S2 (threaded shaft turbo engine) with 1.55HP in my other Super (kyosho): I can tell it was fast, but it came with a price (around $250 at Tower). I sold the engine (with a good price of course) because it was too much for me in racing on track and the way it made my car's parts wear out really fast (and Kyosho Super is durable, maybe slightly more durable than HPI).

However, the increase in speed wasn't that much compared to O.S. RX.. but because of smaller size the car handled sligthly better. So, that's a good option, too. In the end of the day I would perhaps go for RX because of the nice price.

One summer evening we driving the car with the nova; after the half an hours session I realized odd "stuff" in the front window of the Lambo body.. it was tens or hundreds of bugs being smashed to the window just like in real cars (and you couldn't even see those bugs flying around really).. the car was fast indeed :D

[Mika]

Anyone using this in their Super:
HGI Rear Upper Brace RS4 Nitro
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXST34&P=7
It seems that most people use the carbon one from HPI..opinions?

[Mika]

Originally posted by tphss
I just bought the 15RX few days ago.
94$ at tower.
Mounts I got from wolf radicals (the .21 conversion)

Do you use the WPR WLF066 or WLF0266 (or is it the same). Latter is from http://www.brucknerhobbies.com/hpi_parts.htm

$94 is nice, it seems $109 today at Tower

Thanks,
Mika

[tphss]

yeah,
the engine went down to 93.?? $ and then jumped back up to 110$, I bought it for 94$.

[Interstate]

I've got a sirio .18 shoehorned in my SNRS4. I haven't run it yet to see if i need to change my gearing, but maybe yall could help save me a headache and some cash. I can't run it until spring rolls around; for Michigan, winter comes early...

I've only seen the stock 44t spur, are there any different sizes or a company that makes them that I'm just not seeing?

I have a 11, 14, and 15 tooth bells, think I'll need any different ones?

BTW, I'm using a motor savers air filter, team orion wide bore manifold, trinity racing pipe, HCR aluminum clutch, and 20% O'donnel.

[tphss]

how did you fit that sirio? it's with the t-maxx electric start or special start.

Anyway, you have 2-speed gearbox?

with that engine use the biggest bell and spur you can get.

what mods do you have on the car?

[Interstate]

I got some motor mounts from GPM that are adjustable left to right, and front to back. I did have to grind just a little bit off the mounting tab to clear the pully. Since it's an SG shaft, i can't put a 2 speed on there. I think once i get used to the speed this will be pumping out, then I might look for a standard crankshaft and rig up the 2 speed. I got a t-maxx flywheel, and like i said earlier the HCR aluminum clutch. I ordered a TRX 2.5 pullstart and put that on, i'm thinking of getting the HPI roto start for the 2.5 though.

I also had to make some custom linkages to operate the slide carb, which was a pain in the butt!

I saw RRP makes an aluminum spur gear adapter, will that fit on the super?

I really have too many mods to list, but put it this way; the only thing stock is the chassis, ball bearings, brake disk holder, rear upper arms, rear knuckles, and most screws.

If you really want I can post all the mods i have, and what i have left to do but i'm a little short on time right now. Oh yeah, if you ask i can snap some photos and post them too!

[RandyT]

I would think that it is possible to put a two speed on it, but not knowing the motor I can't say for sure. You have the adjustable motor mounts. Pick up an Ofna shim kit and see if that gives you enough shaft length. You might have to shave the brake in case the flywheel rubs. Good luck.

[Interstate]

It has to be a 1 speed; the bell is held on with an e-clip, for a 2 speed, the end of the shaft would need to be tapped. It looks like someone started to drill into the shaft at the factory, but didn't tap it. I had to grind about 1.5mm off the clutch bell just to get the single speed on!

Everything else fits fine, even HPI's huge brake disk fit, but I got the HCR one anyway.

[RandyT]

I see, that's a unique way of holding on a clutchbell. Wonder how its going to hold up. Well good luck with it.

[Mika]

Anyone tried HPI 18SS in their Super? HPI gives 1.5HP for it (doubles 15SS). Opinions?

[Interstate]

I got this Sirio .18 SC installed on my super, and i thought i'd share it with yall. I didn't take too many pics, but you get the idea.


Note the front pulleyl; the mounts rub up against it. Since the motor tabs are right ontop of the mounts, the motor tabs had to be trimmed. But this is only the beginning.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=30&show=image

[Interstate]

BUT, in order for the gears to com together right, the motor had to be all the way on the front mounting holes, but in this pic, you can see that's a bit of a problem. The back plate extends out where mounts usually go!


http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=31&show=image

[Interstate]

You can see here just how much is needed to allow space for the mounts and the backplate. *Please note that I'm not a dummy; I did take the mounts off to cut them, I wouldn't want any metal shavings ina brand new Italian hot rod!

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=32&show=image

[Interstate]

After several hours, dremel cutting wheels, and many, many cans of coke, it fits. Well, mostly, I had to wait for my lhs to get in some clutch bells to align the motor properly.

Here's my rather hack job of the motor mounts:
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=34&show=image

[Interstate]

When i got most of the motor assembled, I tried to put my 2 speed bell on, but the end of the crank was not tapped for a screw to go in. A rather loud "OH ***?!?" eminated from my mouth... The silly thing had some weird clutch bell holding system; the dreaded e-clip. So, as aforementioned, (yeah, that's a word) I got some bells from my lhs, and tried to put on the biggest one; the 15 tooth. I figured the engine would have enough torque to turn that at low speed, and still have enough grunt to pull some speed out of it. But, for some reason, HPI bells are about 1-2mm too tall to be mounted on something meant for traxxas trucks... But, as resourceful as I am, i grabbed the grinding wheel attachment for my dremel, and a 10 dollar diamond cutting bit; these two made real short work of that hardened steel. Just for good measure, I cut away at the other two bell i had just to save some time in the future.

Here's a pic of that mickey mouse bell retainer and my aluminum clutch.

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=29&show=image

[Interstate]

Since the stock RS4 (as you all know) has a rotary carb, and the Sirio .18 has a slide carb, some linkage action had to be done. It really wasn't all that hard; I just grabbed an extra servo horn, linkage pieces, and some springs, and voila!

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?shopperid=91XGGE2HFUVV9PLFT1CKK8XG88 500439&userid=boostbottle&album_id=95388&image_id=36&show=image

[Mika]

Anybody knows Wolfgang (WPR) is still in business? I tried contacting both WPR and Brucknerhobbies via email but no responses within like a month or so..

Q: Is the WPR 2-speed worth of buying if you don't run a .21 engine but a medium powered racing engine with 1 HP or so ?

However, it seems that it cannot be purchased anyway..

[tphss]

Originally posted by Mika
Anybody knows Wolfgang (WPR) is still in business? I tried contacting both WPR and Brucknerhobbies via email but no responses within like a month or so..

Q: Is the WPR 2-speed worth of buying if you don't run a .21 engine but a medium powered racing engine with 1 HP or so ?

However, it seems that it cannot be purchased anyway..

As far as I know he is, just got some parts from him 3 days ago.
Yeah it's worth it, but, which engine?

[Mika]

Okay thanks, I need recontact him. It is this HPI's inexpensive 12R SC with 1+ HP as they claim. Is that okay? or too weak..

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/engine.jpg
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/hpi/2.jpg
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/hpi/3.jpg
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/hpi/7.jpg

I'm also planning to get the new 18SS

[tphss]

For the hpi 12SS engine I don't think you need it, although for any .18 it will be a good upgrade, for any .15 too and for high performance .12's (sirio, novarossi, rossi Etc..).

Why do you want to buy the HPI .18?

[Mika]

Okay thpss, should I get the HPI 2-speed instead? Umph.. I just sold mine (the HD 2-speed) for a guy here who has 15FE engine is his super .. because guys here in this forum said it's not even worth trying and will break in no time and strip gears.. well, I don't think I'm gonna get it again and stick with the 1-speed (14T bell).

Why 18SS ? I thought it would be nice for parking lot racing having 1,5HP and more torque that the 12SS engine.. which is for the track conditions where I'll race mostly next season (haven't even tried it out yet since it's -15C here now). Opinions? Do you think 12SS would be enough.. actually I bought 2 from Tower when they sold them under $65.

TIA,
Mika

[tphss]

Mika you need the Super Nitro 2-speed gearbox to use the Wolfpack Radicals 2-speed upgrade kit.
What wolf sells it's not the whole gearbox, only a kit that makes the gearbox stronger and more durable.

I don't know about that engine, never ran any engine from HPI.
It's pretty cheap so I assume quality isn't amazing...
After alot of questions and after alot of chats with SN Viper, H-Trainer, Rookie solara, Wolf and some other people I got the O.S. 15RX, and I could have gotten any engine I wanted.

Here are the main reasons:

1) Couldn't resist the price (at the time 95$ at tower for a very good engine)
2) I thought of buying a RB S7C onroad engine, after a few discussions I was faced with the truth- no way a super will handle an engine this big an powerfull (more then 2hp, 7port), even with all the mods I have the engine will break the car and will tair apart the drive belts, that's why serpent belts that are designed to use .21's are much wider.
3) 15 is the middle, probably more torque then almost any .12 (and much cheaper then any good .12 engine) and won't break the car (and after that my bank) like a .21 engine.

About a pull-start engine I don't know, don't like the fact another thing is there that will go bad with time and takes some power from the engine.

[Toyotatogo]

come on guys tell me what clutch shoes are you running with the .21 conversion super nitros?????

[Mika]

Originally posted by tphss
Mika you need the Super Nitro 2-speed gearbox to use the Wolfpack Radicals 2-speed upgrade kit.
What wolf sells it's not the whole gearbox, only a kit that makes the gearbox stronger and more durable.

I don't know about that engine, never ran any engine from HPI.
It's pretty cheap so I assume quality isn't amazing...
After alot of questions and after alot of chats with SN Viper, H-Trainer, Rookie solara, Wolf and some other people I got the O.S. 15RX, and I could have gotten any engine I wanted.

Here are the main reasons:

1) Couldn't resist the price (at the time 95$ at tower for a very good engine)
2) I thought of buying a RB S7C onroad engine, after a few discussions I was faced with the truth- no way a super will handle an engine this big an powerfull (more then 2hp, 7port), even with all the mods I have the engine will break the car and will tair apart the drive belts, that's why serpent belts that are designed to use .21's are much wider.
3) 15 is the middle, probably more torque then almost any .12 (and much cheaper then any good .12 engine) and won't break the car (and after that my bank) like a .21 engine.

About a pull-start engine I don't know, don't like the fact another thing is there that will go bad with time and takes some power from the engine.

Yes, I've had RX so I know the quality, it's awesome and powerful. RC mags have also rated the HPI 12R pretty good considering it's price. It's without pull start and direct fit of course. Let's see. At least it wont't break parts because of too much power and driving should be easier on track than with a big block - bit more balanced and slower of course. Yes, I also know that you need parts from HPI 2-speed for the WPR, but you can buy those separately. Thanks.

[Toyotatogo]

*echo* "HELLO HELLO HELLO"

Are you guys even using clutches with your .21 conversions super nitros?????

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
*echo* "HELLO HELLO HELLO"

Are you guys even using clutches with your .21 conversions super nitros?????

LOL! :D Nice ride Mika. A friend of mine at my HS is interested in the hobby. Gonna start him out with a Super Nitro RTR for $300. Gonna hook hip up some fuel and give him my M16 with manifold for $80 after he gets use to the speed. BTW I got some new gear for my sedan Rookie Solara if you here browsing the threads somewhere. Check it out :cool: :

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=152798

[tphss]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
*echo* "HELLO HELLO HELLO"

Are you guys even using clutches with your .21 conversions super nitros?????

On my sn i'll be using a HPI 2 shoe racing clutch (using both RB X15 and OS RX15).

I guess with a 21 that won't do such great job (for a long time..), I guess you should get a 3 shoe clutch, never used aluminum shoes so I dunno about them, regular ones will do or the carbon plastic ones.

[Mika]

thpss, have you done the installation already? Any pics.. would be great to see those.. any chance you could give a list of parts needed for RX conversion?

[tphss]

It's "tphss"... :D

Anyway, parts NEEDED:
-OS 15RX
-new flywheel + clutch
-21 engine conversion mounts from wolfpack (need to check first, i'll start building in few days..)
-if you are using 2 speed best is to use a hpi nitro3 clutch bell With threaded on pinions...


That's mainly it, I got hell'lot more mods.

When I start rebuilding my car i'll update..

[Mika]

sorry ;)

[tphss]

No biggie~ :D


I forgot to say some other recommended parts when modding with a more powerfull engine.

-Stronger diff joints (what come out from the diff and the bones go into them).
-Front universals
-2speed upgrade kit from wolfpack

Other stuff I would also recommend like placing foam tires (with wolfpack adapters..) I hate the rubber tires that hpi makes they suck.

Well mod list can be endless so... If I forgot something i'll add tomorrow

[Interstate]

I need some help:

I got my Sirio .18 in my super, but can only use a single speed tranny. The sirio is an SG crankshaft preventing me from putting on a taller (sizewise) clutch bell; i.e. it can't be taller than a single speed bell. I actually had to grind about 1.5mm off the mase of teh bell to fit it on. I've thought of a couple options:

Is there a 2 speed kit that has really skinny gears like on the RS43 or an AE type bell?
-Since this engine was supposed to drop into a t-maxx, would traxxas bells be useable?

Is there a normal crankshaft out for the Sirio so i can use my own 2 speed?

Any help in locating some parts, or help with frankenstiening these together would be greatly appreciated.

[microrcdude]

www.towerhobbies.com sells engines and parts.

[Interstate]

To whom are you speaking to?

[Mika]

Anyone run OS 15CV-R(X) in their Super, Tower seems to sell those at pretty low price, $117.

I bet a tuned pipe is a must for the Super for racing but has anyone tried running the car with the stock muffler and a better engine, other than 15FE. What was the gain after putting the pipe?

I kinda like the Super's stock rear exhaust and with a better engine like OS 15CV-RX I might even try it out on track and save the MIP exhaust and the 12R for the other car

[tphss]

Mika don't even think about using the stock can-type exhaust, it's really bad.
I used a CV12CX on my super with that exhaust and with a tuned pipe it's a different world.

P.S.

Started off modding my car with everything, took the old engine out, and trying to face some difficulties I had yesterday with early steps, most are worn screw heads :mad: .... Bah.
Anyway, today or tomorrow it's off to the 2-speed upgrade, wheels, fix the suspension Etc...

HEY, anyone using a Powerline upper front aluminum arm?? I tried to replace but the stock metal pin that holds the arm to the front block seems to be long enough for the stock plastic ones but the aluminum needs a longer pin.
I saw I got new pins for the back upper arms, but non for the front ones, anyone knows something about this? maybe where can I get longer pins?


Thanks

[Mika]

Okay, thanks, that's what I thought. Sad but true. However, 15CV-R more than doubles the power of the O.S. 12CV if that's the engine you mean.

What do you say about the MIP side exhaust, does that compare as a pipe .. I mean it was only $40 or so. People rated it well in the nitroreview.com though.

I won't be able to be on track for next 4 months or so, that's why I'm asking, you know :D

Let us know how your project proceeds..

[tphss]

Emm,

Mika no, I mean this engine:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA45&P=7

Although I got the regular 12CV too, NIB, Don't know why I do though :D

Anyway, today I got the front serpent wheels on with Wolfpack's adapters, looks good... also took off the front shock tower and installed the shocks on the stock holes to make the whole suspension lower.
Also installed a Hitec 5625MG Digital servo and a aluminum servo mount on one side, since the other side has a plastic one that is BUILT ON the whole plastic hosing.
Installed the aluminum steering bellcranks, these are a bit of a pain after the installation... I need to make a custom linkage between the 2 parts, and I dont have the parts needed, on top of that, on one of the 2 bellcranks the ballstud for the linkage to the wheel DOESN'T WANT TO GO IN THE BELLCRANK, so I ended up wearing the top of the bellcrank's thread! damn!

That's most of the work till now, I don't have alot of time lately...

Pictures will only follow when I finish the whole car.... I want to organize all of the pics first and give a short explanation to each.

:D

[Interstate]

Mika, I got the powerline front and rear aluminum arms, both had new hinge pins. I had the stainless steel kit from HPI before, and just used those; they fit fine.

[Mika]

Originally posted by tphss
Emm,

Mika no, I mean this engine:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA45&P=7

Although I got the regular 12CV too, NIB, Don't know why I do though :D

...

Pictures will only follow when I finish the whole car.... I want to organize all of the pics first and give a short explanation to each.

:D

Okay, that figures. And it was sluggish with the muffler; allright better forget it.

Great.

[Interstate]

Sorry, i meant to say i got the front and rear *upper* arms.

[Mika]

Pretty sure this is not the **most interesting** post ever written ;) but just for keeping the spirit up.. attached please find my Super bodies for the next season; the left one I just finished (with 3 cans of spray and some tape) for my HPI Super.. it's gonna have the OS 15CVRX (yes I dumped the HPI 12R and the GT One body for now) and the WPR 2-speed (big thanks to mr. Wolfgang for such a nice service indeed) plus some HPI hop-ups and the MIP side pipe to name a few.. the body is not entirely finished yet like u see (need to cut openings for the 125cc tank and the engine) but pics will follow. The white one will be for my Kyosho Super (not too excited u know since I've raced that car 3 years now) but it's gonna also be a nice ride with the OS LayDown engine 15LD plus other goodies (my brother-in-law will race that car against my HPI..I'll beat him but I've really enjoyed driving the Kyosho past years; it's such a good car when properly dialed in and the LD engine; the new body will make it even better.. :D )
Cheers
-Mika

[Mika]

OK here's the Super Nitro with the body after finishing it. But I have to say it's better in live.

[wilson_bryant]

Mika that is a nice super.

I havent been on here in a wile and i got my super runin again and i wanted to show how it worked out. I striped my second gear. I was doin some cookies and my mom told me that little black peaces were flyin from my car and it was the gear.

Here are a couple pics of the gear(wantin to try out the new digi camera):
too big to put on here (http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros/mysuper.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=52)
and to lazy to resize (http://groups.msn.com/hpisupernitros/mysuper.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=53)

The second i was tryin to show missing teeth in the 1st gear(dang rocks).

[Mika]

Thanks Wilson. That's a common problem if the gear mesh isn't right that can easily happen. Also, the HPI shifts so hard (being finger type) that it strips gears even easier with more powerful engines than the stock one. But HPI isn't the only one having this problem. I think people have tried to avoid this using WPR 2-speed with the Associated 2-speed clutch in it (shoe type instead of finger). Setting the mesh correctly may also help quite a bit. Rocks and broken pinion gears make the situation even worse of course.

[OT] I just bought a new digital camera, too, it's a vital element of R/C :D

[wilson_bryant]

yah rocks suck. Sadly the roads in my town are made of rock covered with tar. and the only good place to run it is in the school parkin lot, and there is a bunch or rocks and pebbles.

[Mika]

Got the Star wheels from HPI, now it looks good :D (although on track I propably have to use the white ones from rc4less)

http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/racer/wheels2.jpg

[Saboteur]

Sweetness! :cool:

[tphss]

Mika,

Looks very nice.
So you use the CV-15RX now?
Emm, good choice I guess, Now what about a good side pipe?

Have you had a test drive yet?

Keep up the good work :D

I'm still waiting till I sell some stuff to have enough money to order the parts I need to finish off my car... till will take a while, Bah.

[Mika]

Thanks! Yes, I did. Tower sold them at resonable price (they still do I guess). I left the HPI .12R as spare.. maybe I'll test it, too, for comparison. Umph, I don't how good the MIP touring car side exhaust is, but I'm using that one. Some say it's good though. Not yet, still snowing here.. have to wait another 3 months at least before driving it :(
I also bought the WPR 2-speed, hasn't arrived though yet. Maybe next week. I have other parts for it. Not sure whether I go straight for it or should I test driving the car with single speed first (as it is isntalled currently) and tune the engine first.. and then move on to the 2-speed.. let's see.. any suggestions?

[Interstate]

I'm in the same boat as you Mika; I got a new sirio .18 with a trinity racer pipe but of course, I have to wait at least 4 months until spring, or at least something a little warmer than a michigan winter. Speaking of; it's 9 degreesF outside, yikes!

[ExtremeDuty]

Are Super Nitro RS4's being phased out?

Last night I was browsing Towerhobbies.com and they listed SNRS4 as "discontinued". I wonder what's going on?
HPI recently released electric version of SNRS4.

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by ExtremeDuty
Are Super Nitro RS4's being phased out?

Last night I was browsing Towerhobbies.com and they listed SNRS4 as "discontinued". I wonder what's going on?
HPI recently released electric version of SNRS4.

Some of the kits are but not all ....

[Redneck Basher]

Has anyone ever tried the OFNA clutch type 2 speed?? It's suppose to fit the Super. part number 530015 (i think)

It looks like quite a kit. It comes with a clutch bell, shaft, one way, "nylon" gears and shoe type clutch, (like the Team Associated version used by WPR).

This could possibly fix the highest maintenance item on the whole car. (Wouldn't that be great.)

I'd like to try one but very little information is available and its expensive. (OFNA list price is $119.)

[Redneck Basher]

Correction, the OFNA 2 speed Part Number is: 35015

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
Some of the kits are but not all ....

Actually all the kits are discontinued for Super Nitro RS4 you can only now buy them in Ready-To-Run

[Mika]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
Has anyone ever tried the OFNA clutch type 2 speed?? It's suppose to fit the Super. part number 530015 (i think)

It looks like quite a kit. It comes with a clutch bell, shaft, one way, "nylon" gears and shoe type clutch, (like the Team Associated version used by WPR).

This could possibly fix the highest maintenance item on the whole car. (Wouldn't that be great.)

I'd like to try one but very little information is available and its expensive. (OFNA list price is $119.)

Funny, I was just about going to ask the same. Tower sells the finger type but OFNA has also this shoe type you are asking - which Tower does not carry. I have the WPR clucth, but this could be an option (for my friend) ... does anyone have this?

[PCC]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
Has anyone ever tried the OFNA clutch type 2 speed?? It's suppose to fit the Super. part number 530015 (i think)

It looks like quite a kit. It comes with a clutch bell, shaft, one way, "nylon" gears and shoe type clutch, (like the Team Associated version used by WPR).

This could possibly fix the highest maintenance item on the whole car. (Wouldn't that be great.)

I'd like to try one but very little information is available and its expensive. (OFNA list price is $119.) I had this on my Racer 2. I would never do it again! They did not design that two-speed very well. The pinions are expensive ($10 each) and the spur gears are held on with tiny M2.6 screws that strip out the housings easily. I ran red Loctite on those screws and they still backed out and stripped out the housings. I'd go with the WPR two-speed and modify it to work properly with your car.

[Mika]

OK, thanks for the info PCC!

[SN VipeR]

There's no substitute for Wolfpack Radicals!

[Redneck Basher]

Thanks for the Info PCC.

What gears do you guys run with your 2 speeds??

I like fast response so I ussually use either the 43/46 spurs or the 41/43. I ussually run the 11/14 cluth bell, but the spurs seem to last longer if I run the 12/15.

[Mika]

Like Walt and other guys couple of pages back talk, the WPR is very tight fit with the 41/44 so you have to watch the clearance with 13/16 bell. I don't thin you can fit others (smaller bells) with those spurs. I'm waiting the 46/43 spurs from Tower so I haven't tried out yet, but I suspect clearance is better and you might even be able to use the 11/14 bell. Anyways 13/16 should be OK and gearing fine. (Didn't find 12/15 from Tower last time I searched.)
-Mika

[Toyotatogo]

Now I run NOW
( First Gear 18pinion/41spur) (Second Gear 22pinion/37spur)


I am testing this one also
(First Gear 19pinion/41 spur) (Second Gear 23pinion/ 37spur)


but you gotta have some ponies to pull something geared this tall .. ;)

[Redneck Basher]

Yeah, the WPR has an interference problem with the 11/14 clutch bell and I haven't tried it with the 12/15. I'm not sure why the 12/15 clutch bell is hard to find now. I've got a couple of them that I originally got when I played with my HPI MT.

I guess I need to experiment more with gear set-ups. With the SN I really don't want to get going too fast down the straight.

(We run around a concrete light post and an orange cone in a very coarse asphalt parking lot, it's about 130' between the pylons. This makes it a simple oval and the turning radius that can be maintained with the rubber slicks is an advantage. Also with the taller gears/less top speed, you can blaze out of the corners and pretty much maintain inside position. On our track if you carry too much speed into the corner you can easily flip. Its takes a while to get the car characterisitcs just right so you can handle the corners. Speed is a key aspect, no matter what else you do, speed dictates how sharp you can turn around the pylon. Too fast and you can't maintain the inside groove and if you're not careful you wind up embarrassed and shiny side down.)

I'd be interested to learn more about others set-ups. What type of track do you guys run on using the high speed gears??

[Mini Z]

Sup all, well this will kinda be a big leap for me from mini Z's and my baby ABC DTM SP to the well Nitro area. But I've been reading up on this car and seems like a good car to start with since its fairly big and not too fast. N e ways the car I'm getting will be a 280mm w/2 spd tranny and 4 motors lol 2x pull starts and 2x need starter boxes. Seems pretty good and i should get it on thurs. or fri. **Praying** =). In the mean while, can this car be converted to the rally version???

[clodkiller]

OK im looking to switch from nitro off road to on road nitro i like the snrs4 is it worth the money to buy?
one thing i noticed every 1 complains about the 2 speed trany whats the problem ?
How fast can this car move with a 2 speed and mediocre .15 engine.

Frank

[Walt]

Originally posted by clodkiller
OK im looking to switch from nitro off road to on road nitro i like the snrs4 is it worth the money to buy?
one thing i noticed every 1 complains about the 2 speed trany whats the problem ?
How fast can this car move with a 2 speed and mediocre .15 engine.

Frank

The HPI 2-speed is a 'finger type' 2-speed, so it shifts very harshly. This can cause you to loose control if the shift occurs when you are not going in a straight line (if it shifts in a sweeper, you might be in trouble). It's also tough on your drive train parts, including the 2-speed itself.

A clutch type 2-speed is more durable and shifts more smoothly. The WPR conversion can be made to work well, but not all gear combinations will fit due to interference issues between the engine's clutch housing and the 2-speed's clutch housing.

In the end, if you're just bashing around in front of your house, the HPI 2-speed is probably fine... one good thing about 'finger type' 2-speeds... when they shift, you really hear it, and it sounds pretty cool.

[Redneck Basher]

Is the Super Nitro a good platform ??
Absolutely.

Do we gripe about the 2-speed??
Yes, but all platforms have a weakness. The 2-speeds generally work very well but from time to time gears are stripped and it takes about 20 minutes to replace $8.00 in parts. (That's if you strip both gears, ussually it's only one gear.) It would be great to find a permanent fix but more than likely the real issue is debris getting into the gears and the fact that (at least in my case) I'm running very hot 1.5 horse motors and the tallest gears possible. I'm putting way too much stress on the assembly, in all honesty I'm not all that surprised that something has to give and the gears are the weakest link. (Changing my gear ratio would more than likely reduce the problem.)

If I was looking for a road car I would definitly look hard at the the Super. I recommend it all the time. Some like the more traditional touring cars but I like the size of the super. In my opinion, for the money nothing is better than the super.

[Interstate]

Yall are probobly tired of me talking about this but i just have to ask!

My sirio doesn't have a threaded crank, so it has to be a single speed. I'v got a light weight flywheel, aluminum clutch, and 15/44 setup. Should I invest in the $80 threaded crank and put on the my old HPI 2 speed? The engine has yet to be broken in, this is why I ask, will the super be able to perform well enough with the single speed tranny?

[PCC]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
Do we gripe about the 2-speed??
Yes, but all platforms have a weakness. The 2-speeds generally work very well but from time to time gears are stripped and it takes about 20 minutes to replace $8.00 in parts. (That's if you strip both gears, ussually it's only one gear.) It would be great to find a permanent fix but more than likely the real issue is debris getting into the gears and the fact that (at least in my case) I'm running very hot 1.5 horse motors and the tallest gears possible. I'm putting way too much stress on the assembly, in all honesty I'm not all that surprised that something has to give and the gears are the weakest link. (Changing my gear ratio would more than likely reduce the problem.)

If I was looking for a road car I would definitly look hard at the the Super. I recommend it all the time. Some like the more traditional touring cars but I like the size of the super. In my opinion, for the money nothing is better than the super.

The problem I have had with my finger-type HPI two-speed was the shaft breaking. I was running an OS CVR and I would break this shaft every third tank or so. Yes, I would strip gears from time-to-time but the two-speed shaft breakage was a real pain. This was on my Racer2 and with the optional side brace. Before I put the side brace on I was breaking that shaft every half tank. The gearing I had in my car was not extreme, too, as I ran the 44/39 and 13/18 gears exclusively.

As for the popularity of the Super, all I can say is that I have had a hopped up Super for sale for a while, now, and no takers. I don't think $200 for a rolling chassis is unreasonable when you consider how much aftermarket aluminum and graphite I have in this thing.

[Redneck Basher]

Interstate - I'm probably not the best one here to be giving advice, but if I could get a single speed mounted I'd give it a try. It's not that hard to make the change over to the 2-speed later after you have the motor broke in.
Also, Im not clear about the threaded shaft issue. If you can mount the hpi 15 tooth clutch bell it seems you would be able to mount the hpi 2 speed bell. Is there a clearance issue or is it the hpi pilot shaft that won't work? (I've seen guys using an Ofna kit that allows a pilot shaft motor to be used on a Super.)

PCC- Sorry about you're experience selling your Super. For some reason the darn things have little resale value. (I bought both of mine on Ebay for a song.) What type of car are you going to play with in the future??

[Interstate]

Maybe I didn't make myself clear enough. The Sirio .18 that I have right now has no threaded end for a screw, or nut to hold the clutch bell on. It's held on with an E-clip and is not long enough to accomidate a 2 speed bell. So I already have the single speed on, I want my 2 speed back!

[Redneck Basher]

Interstate - ....Now I can see what you're talking about. That is different. I haven't seen anyone adapt that kind of shaft. A new shaft may be the only fix.

Maybe someone else can offer some advice.

Sorry I'm not more help. Good Luck.

[Mika]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
Yeah, the WPR has an interference problem with the 11/14 clutch bell and I haven't tried it with the 12/15. I'm not sure why the 12/15 clutch bell is hard to find now. I've got a couple of them that I originally got when I played with my HPI MT.

I guess I need to experiment more with gear set-ups. With the SN I really don't want to get going too fast down the straight.


I got the 43/46 spurs and at least now there's plenty of room to set the gear mesh correctly with the WPR 2-speed and 13/16 bell.

Hope it will be fast enough with this gearing and OS 15CVRX; our track isn't that big and it's quite twisty so I suspect it will OK

I agree with Basher, I don't wanna be it too fast for the track.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher
PCC- Sorry about you're experience selling your Super. For some reason the darn things have little resale value. (I bought both of mine on Ebay for a song.) What type of car are you going to play with in the future?? I currently have 25 cars. I think I'll find something ;)

Yeah, every time I mention that car either the person ignores me or they say it's too expensive. Heck, the aftermarket parts alone add up to over $200 and most of the parts are in very good to new condition. I guess I should just keep it and polish it up as a shelf-queen.

[TJNMT]

Hey there guys, Just got a Super but been with HPI all my life and nitros.

First off I want some hop ups right now and the 2 speed, trying to read through the whole posts gets boaring. Striaght out bashing which is better the HPi or Ass.
either way which is a cheap place to buy. Tower wants 67 for there 2 speed

ALso anybody got some super nitro sites with all the ins and outs of the car.

Thanks for any replies

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by TJNMT
Hey there guys, Just got a Super but been with HPI all my life and nitros.

First off I want some hop ups right now and the 2 speed, trying to read through the whole posts gets boaring. Striaght out bashing which is better the HPi or Ass.
either way which is a cheap place to buy. Tower wants 67 for there 2 speed

ALso anybody got some super nitro sites with all the ins and outs of the car.

Thanks for any replies

search on ebay

[Miha]

Does anyone have experience with Altas Hobbies foam tires?

http://www.atlashobbies.com/tire_shop/super_10_scale/tires/hpi/foam/hpi_super_foam.htm

If this was discussed before, I apologize, could anyone gave me the link to that discussion.

Thanks!

Miha

[TJNMT]

Toyota,

I'm on Ebay 8-10 hours a day, self employed, if you know what I mean.

I mean you guys dont' have tech site you go to for these Supers, if not that's ok

[TJNMT]

Another Thing since I'm putting a orderin for tower. Might as well get what I want.
What would be a nice upgrade for engine size for the Super. As of right now it's stock. But in next couple months I;ll have a 2speed, manly just bashing and I have always been with OS.
Would the .15cv-rx work. It needs to be pull start also.

Thanks for any replies

[TJNMT]

awesome,
I guess I'm the only one hear.

[Walt]

Originally posted by TJNMT
awesome,
I guess I'm the only one hear.

You're not the only one here, but it's difficult to give engine advice, since there are so many choices and every one is best for some particular situation.

The advice I can give you is to NOT purchase from Tower... Tower is the direct marketing arm of Great Planes, the largest distributer of RC in the U.S. As a distributer, they should not be selling directly to the public... it really hurts the local hoby shops when they do. If you can, please support your local hobby shop instead... you don't have to, but if you want to have a local hobby shop, then shopping there will help ensure it sticks around.

And if you want engine advice, I've never been disappointed by Novarossi built engines, so I'm sticking to them, and recommend them to others.

[Redneck Basher]

TJ = OS makes very reliable motors and from my experience they are easy to tune. There are stronger motors, Novarossi, Novamega (another Novarossi brand) and probably Sirio, but these motors are a little sensitive. It just depends on what you're looking for. What is everyone else running? Often its more fun if everyone is more or less equal.

If you opt for the OS CV-R (or RX) you can always upgrade later to the Turbo version. One of the guys I run with took an old .15 cv-r and put the OS turbo kit on it. He put it in a Traxxas Rustler and the thing runs great. It compares with the Traxxas 2.5 motor and he says all he did was put the head kit on it*. (The Traxxas 2.5 is also a sensitive motor by the way.)

*I suspect more has been done than just the head kit, the silly thing runs so strong he can hardly keep the front wheels on the ground in the straightaways. If I had to bet I think he's been using his dremel tool on the connecting rod and crank.

[Interstate]

Is there a Titanium screw set out for the SNRS4? Where?

Does anyone know where I could get titanium screws from but not from tower or lhs. Most screw bags of 5-10 are about 8 bucks. And for the amount of screws needed, I don't really want to shell out 100+ bucks for screws! I called Home depot, but they don't have titanium anything. Think an auto parts store could get some in?

[Walt]

Originally posted by Interstate
Is there a Titanium screw set out for the SNRS4? Where?

Does anyone know where I could get titanium screws from but not from tower or lhs. Most screw bags of 5-10 are about 8 bucks. And for the amount of screws needed, I don't really want to shell out 100+ bucks for screws! I called Home depot, but they don't have titanium anything. Think an auto parts store could get some in?

I don't even know what you'd ask for. The Super Nitro uses a few 'standard' machine screws in places where the screws go into a metal nut on the other side, but most of the screws are of the self-taping variety, specifically designed for going into plastic. I don't think those screws follow any particular standard, and they don't have to since there are no 'mating parts' like the screws that go into tapped metal, like a nut.

Actually, the screws that came with the Super Nitro I've found to be very good. In fact, every time I get an Associated R/C car, I always throw away all of their terrible 4-40 machine screws that they use as self taping screws into plastic, and replace them with HPI's 'TP' screws. I've never had one pull out. HPI did a good job on the design of their screws. The 'diff cups' on the other hand (where the dogbone rides)... now those are terrible...

[Interstate]

Yeah the diff cups are pretty poor. But I replaced mine with a ball diff and some super light HGI ones.

The screws HPI uses are steel. I'm trying to shed some weight for more performance, ya know, speed freak plus fast car equals need for more speed! I think HPI makes some TP titanium screws, but they're some 6 bucks for 5 screws!

[Walt]

Originally posted by Interstate
Yeah the diff cups are pretty poor. But I replaced mine with a ball diff and some super light HGI ones.

The screws HPI uses are steel. I'm trying to shed some weight for more performance, ya know, speed freak plus fast car equals need for more speed! I think HPI makes some TP titanium screws, but they're some 6 bucks for 5 screws!

If you want cheap, titanium screws that are intended to self-tap into plastic and fit the hole in the plastic of the Super Nitro, I think you're in for a tough search. I can offer no help... sorry.

As a side note, I don't think I've ever used the word 'titanium' along with the word 'cheap' before...

My advice remains to just stick with the stock screws, but I admit that is lame advice if what you really want is titanium screws. Good luck.

[Mika]

Originally posted by Redneck Basher What is everyone else running? Often its more fun if everyone is more or less equal.

If you opt for the OS CV-R (or RX) you can always upgrade later to the Turbo version. One of the guys I run with took an old .15 cv-r and put the OS turbo kit on it.

First I went for the HPI 12R but then thought it might be a bit weak for such a big car. Having the WPR 2-speed I was also concerned about shifting. Finally I selected the 15CV-RX as it seems pretty popular with SN, and Tower sold them with pretty good discount ($120). I have the 46/43 13/16 gearing. Actually, the new head would be quite cool upgrade, thanks for reminding me ;) BTW, I've always liked OS engines, too, easier than Novarossi.

I might try also the HPI 12R SC when I have the chance. I've read it's pretty nice sport .12 although I don't expect too much for SN.

I also bought SNR for pre-season and for it I eventually got the EPIC18. It's supposed to be quite powerful, let's see how my hopped-up SNR will handle it [sorry for OT]

[PCC]

Originally posted by Interstate
Yeah the diff cups are pretty poor. But I replaced mine with a ball diff and some super light HGI ones.

The screws HPI uses are steel. I'm trying to shed some weight for more performance, ya know, speed freak plus fast car equals need for more speed! I think HPI makes some TP titanium screws, but they're some 6 bucks for 5 screws! Use the Nitro Rush diff outdrives. They're tougher than the cheap stuff that comes with our cars.

Titanium screws work great on electric cars but on nitros, I don't suggest it. What typically happens is that if you crash, even a mild one, the steel screws will bend while the titanium ones will snap in two, leaving the plastic part useless because you will have a hard time digging that part of the screw out of the plastic.

[Walt]

Originally posted by PCC
Use the Nitro Rush diff outdrives. They're tougher than the cheap stuff that comes with our cars.



I have tried all forms of the diff outdrives, including the ones intended for the Nitro Rush, and I am still not happy. I was wearing a noticable groove in the 'stock' ones after just two or three races (20 minutes of driving). The supposedly upgraded ones (shiny ones) didn't last any longer. The Nitro Rush ones would last maybe twice as long, but that still meant changing them every other week, and after only less than an hour of driving.

What I can't understand is how I have never, ever had to change a diff outdrive in any of my other RC vehicles. I ran my AE NTC3 all summer long last year under the exact same conditions as the Super Nitro (I entered the touring class with the NTC3 and the Super Nitro class with the Super ever Sunday), and the diff outdrives look brand new on the AE car, not the slightest wear where the dogbone cross pin rides. Plus we ran 30 minute mains in the nitro touring car class, so that car got a lot more track time.

Even on my 1/8th scale buggy, where there is way more torque, and tons of dirt and grime, I've not touched the diff outdrives in 3 years and they look perfect.

Something is seriously wrong with the HPI units. My guess is that they have the surface finish specification wrong. Perhaps they just need to be case hardened or something.

At last year's HPI World Finals race, I brought along a big plastic bag full of worn out HPI diff outdrives from just that season and gave them to the HPI guys. They said they'd send them to engineering... they probably went right into the garbage. I'm waiting to see if the R40 suffers from this problem. If so, it would seriously be enough to keep me from getting the car.

[Interstate]

Have you tried HGI's ball diff cups? (with ball diff of course)

HGI uses some really stron, and super light alloy for all their products.

[Walt]

Originally posted by Interstate
Have you tried HGI's ball diff cups? (with ball diff of course)

HGI uses some really stron, and super light alloy for all their products.

I have only tried the different parts that fit into the HPI stock gear diffs. In general, I don't like ball diffs. I like the feel of a silicone fluid filled gear differential better.

Thanks for the advice though. I might try out the HGI product some day.

[poopie]

I second that, the HPI outdrives suck, even the heavy duty ones. maybe those outdrive pin sleeves can help remedy the problem.

[Walt]

Originally posted by poopie
I second that, the HPI outdrives suck, even the heavy duty ones. maybe those outdrive pin sleeves can help remedy the problem.

If you find something that works, please let me know. But I still think this is a surface finish problem on HPI's part... no other RC vehicle I have ever owned has this problem.

[Mika]

Walt, I studied my Super and it's diff cups today and found out that when placing o-rings on both ends of the dogbone, they (the axles) won't touch the diff cups -- and possibly not create the grooves on them. Have you tried this? (that is if I understand the problem correctly..)

[Walt]

Originally posted by Mika
Walt, I studied my Super and it's diff cups today and found out that when placing o-rings on both ends of the dogbone, they (the axles) won't touch the diff cups -- and possibly not create the grooves on them. Have you tried this? (that is if I understand the problem correctly..)

The problem I'm talking about is the dog bone cross pin sort of digging a hole in the diff cup, so instead of the diff cup having nice flat, smooth surfaces for the cross pin to ride, it gets all gouged up, and then the drive pin starts to get stuck in that hole it dug for itself. Shortly after this happens you'll notice the back of the car hopping up and down when accellerating from a stop (because since the dogbone can't slide anymore, the suspension is forced up and down as the axle spins). Then, shortly after you get the hops in your car, the dogbone will snap. If you replace the dog bone, the new one will also snap immediately.

This problem is actually worse when you run the universals.. it's worse because the cross pin on the diff side is always in the exact same spot on the diff cup with a universal. With a dog bone, it can move around a little and spread out the wear somewhat, but it doesn't make that big of a difference... the dogbone still wears a little groove somewhere, and then once it starts, the dogbone always stays in that same spot anyways.

I hope that explanation makes sense... keep an eye out for the back of your car hopping, or just keep a close eye on those diff cups.

[Mika]

Oh yes, now I understand clearly (I remember you mentioning about this in your SN review,too, @Chicago R/C).
It seems really like a severe problem indeed. I've had similar issues with my previous Kyosho Super although it never got this bad that it would have actually broken the pins etc. It just would show some signs of wear. Hardened material would propably a solution - could you do that yourself.. I mean heating the diff cups and then sinking them into oil.. we used to do that at school like 20 years ago.. :rolleyes:

[Interstate]

Do you think putting a thin piece of metal across the contact points of the diff cup cwould help spread out the forces to reduce the wear? Or perhaps a collar around the pins(force over area) smae force, just over a larger area... I'll think about this problem. I even had a light problem after one half gallon with the .15FE!

[PCC]

Sorry, the only solution I have found to the weak outdrive problem is to dump all of my HPI nitro cars and buy Kyosho! I won't even go near the Savage because I'm scared that I will run into the same problem on them, too (and from what I understand, the Savage has the same problem on the inner drive cups between the tranny and the diffs, to a lesser extent).

[Mika]

Kyosho is nice but it has it's weaknesses.. FW04 was equally stripping gears with powerful engines (the better 2-speed fzw56, the cheaper one is terrible), I was also breaking universals quite often, the axles would get loose from diff cups unless you use heavily locktite but then you cannot open them..ever. Ball diffs stripped gears if brake was set too tight. Lots of issues there, too. Not meantioning the price for all hop-ups, they cost a fortune. But in overall, very good car.

HPI advises to use grease on diff cups but I assume it won't help neither. Could this be caused by too much braking power.. braking and accelerating a lot.. setting the brake less tight would leave the axles rotating (not locking) to prevent extreme forces on the diff cup.. just guessing.

[Walt]

Grease doesn't help any... it just gets flung off. I even tried to fashion a rubber boot to put around the whole assembly to hold the grease in, but I couldn't figure out anything that would last.

Remember, the problem with the super is made worse by the fact that it is a Super but uses the same parts as the smaller RS4 line. Since the tires on the Super are bigger, to get the same force to the ground requires more axle torque, so we tend to use a smaller pinion gear on our engines... for instance, on a track where I'd have a 15 tooth pinion on my RS4, I'd have a 13 tooth on my Super, so more torque through those parts.

But that is no excuse... like I said before, I have a 3 year old 1/8th scale buggy... huge tires, huge torque, very dirty environment, and those diff cups look like the day they were new.

I have extended the life of my diff cups by widening the slots after the groove starts to form. I can double their life this way, but it really increases the 'slop' in the drive train. I don't recommend this for racing, but I would run the sloppy diff cups in practice to save a little money. I'd widen the slots by just putting the diff cup in a vice and using a cutting wheel on an air powered high speed grinder.. similar to the familiar cutting wheel on the Dremel tool, except about 4 inches in diameter and 1/8" thick.

[Mika]

OK

Have you tried putting silicone sealant into diff cups ? That might limit the backslash which creates the grooves. When getting rid of the backslash, the grooves won't form.

Silicone holds much better than grease (even thick diff grease) while not limiting the rotation of the dogbone, at least not too much.

What do you think?

[Walt]

Originally posted by Mika
OK

Have you tried putting silicone sealant into diff cups ? That might limit the backslash which creates the grooves. When getting rid of the backslash, the grooves won't form.

Silicone holds much better than grease (even thick diff grease) while not limiting the rotation of the dogbone, at least not too much.

What do you think?

I have not tried it, but I don't think it's backlash that causes the wear, just the force applied at that junction along with a sliding motion (metal on metal) and no lubrication. Proof: I only get wear on the 'drive' side of the diff cup, not the 'brake' side... if it was backlash causing the damage I would think it would affect both sides equally.

Pretty much any lubrication you put there will just be scraped away, plus it will tend to attract dirt and other contaminants.

I don't plan on running my super much anymore, so probably won't do any more experimenting to find a solution to this, but if anyone else finds a solution, let the rest of us know.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Walt
Remember, the problem with the super is made worse by the fact that it is a Super but uses the same parts as the smaller RS4 line. Since the tires on the Super are bigger, to get the same force to the ground requires more axle torque, so we tend to use a smaller pinion gear on our engines... for instance, on a track where I'd have a 15 tooth pinion on my RS4, I'd have a 13 tooth on my Super, so more torque through those parts.
And I will add to this by saying that they designed the parts to be light enough to keep their electric cars competitive so the parts just don't hold up to nitro abuse. Their electrics, up to the Pro3, have been great because of this but their nitro cars, which share about 30% of the parts, just don't hold up.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Mika
Kyosho is nice but it has it's weaknesses..
This is true but I have been running V-One R's for a while, now, and have never ran into any strange wear issues other than the spur and pinion gears getting chewed up from the sand that the tires throw into them. The belts seem to last longer than HPI's belts (my brother used to run modified 15CV's and he ported one engine that would throw brand new rear belts on the first power launch after replacing that thing on his Racer 2). I have been running ported X12's an such in my Kyosho's.

[Mika]

OK

Voner is a fine car, glad to hear.

Well, a bit dissapointing hearing about these problems of SN when the season is just coming up. I thought SN is a fine car but obviously not necessarily. Let's see though.

[dc]

Try using the Nitro MT diff cups they have better or more harding than the SNRS4's ?

[PCC]

The older NMT diff cups were the same parts as the SNRS4 cups. I don't know if this is true anymore, though. The Nitro Rush outdrives were the best ones to use.

[dc]

Thanks for the corection I ment the Nitro rush out drives

[Walt]

As I said a few posts ago, the Nitro Rush outdrives seem to last about twice as long as the 'normal' RS4 outdrives, but for me, that means two weeks of racing instead of one, which is much better on a percentage basis, but still unacceptable compared to other cars.

I don't think this is enough reason to NOT get the Super Nitro though. I really like the car, and I have had a great time with mine since I've owned it. Every car has it's quirk, and this just happens to be the Super Nitro's quirk, in my opinion, and it seems like it would be an easy one for HPI to correct.

[Redneck Basher]

How much fuel are you guys running between diff cup changes ??

I don't mean to second guess or contadict anyone. The truth is I'm probably not skilled enough to recognize the drivability issues that you guys see.

My diff experience:
There are about 6 of us who play with SN's every weekend for about 12+ months now. We run all types of motors and each of us goes through about 3/4 to a gallon of nitro a month. (Not exclusively on super's but at least half.)

I've seen the wear on the diffs. I know exactly what you're talking about. I've read everyone's posts about the affect of worn diff's. But honestly I've yet to see it have a significant affect on the driveability of the car from the diffs. I even brought it up last week and no one's ever noticed the diffs being a big issue.

I normally end up changing my rear diffs about once a year (twice at the most). Generally the only time I replace them is when I'm servicing the one way and just change out the diffs because I've already got everything torn apart. I've probably broken one here and there somewhere but it really doesn't stand out in memory. Everything wears out, luckily Diffs are pretty cheap. What does a set go for?? (6 or 8 bucks I guess)

I will testify, as a Serpent owner, the SUPER Nitro is tough and very cheap to operate. It is my favorite.

[Mika]

Sounds good guys!
BTW, Tower sells hardened rs4 diff cups from HGI at 50% discount. I ordered two sets just in case, hope they last a bit longer.

[PCC]

I think those are balldiff outdrives.

[Interstate]

Those are for ball diffs only. I've fit them to RRP ball diffs, but those are discontinued. And I think only HPI makes the ball diff now, and it's plastic...

[Mika]

Originally posted by PCC
I think those are balldiff outdrives.

OK Well, need to return those then :(

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLZ63&P=7

[TJNMT]

K folks.
Which engine would be better for a little bit of racing. Running in a SNRS4 with 2 speed.
I was gonna get the .12rss, then all of a sudden everybody is talking about the t-15. As for price.
I can get the .12rss for 100 through HPI as for the t-15 for 80 bucks.

So which one is really better. Also for rebuilding the .12rss can that be pinced in the future since it's made different than abc as the t-15.

Also since I got another nitro I need to find out the bearings used in the clutchbell instead of the needle bearings? same more as above.

Your comments are very welcomed.

[C0NTENDER]

Sorry for the splatter guys, but I thought some of you should know what's going on with the HPI challenge this year if you don't already known.


Thanks for the question. We've been doing the standard HPI Challenge series for several years now and everyone's had a great time. In order to keep getting the race coverage in the magazines we need the series to evolve to keep up with the hot trends in the industry. So this year we will shift our focus a little to emphasize the Savage trucks.

We're planning two Savage Slam events that will be fun events like the one we did last year... racing, Savage Bowling, concours, long jump contests, barbeque, prizes etc. The idea is to get together for a fun truckin' event with friends and family. We're shooting for one event on the west coast and one event on the east coast, both in the Summer so that the whole family can attend.

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.

If your not happy about this, please go to
HPI Challange (http://www.rctech.net