View Full Version : HPI Super Nitro Rs4
Interstate
05-17-2004, 09:43 PM
Mika, I think cutting the clutch toa minimum would kill you in the slower speed areas. There would always be that little delay before the clutch engages, and I think it'd make you more twitchy on the throttle. I also think it'd make the car more twitchy in the turns, in between the throttle blips, the car would almost jump.
Okay, I'll think about that, thanks Interstate! Maybe I'll start with cutting the clutch just a bit and see how it affects. I'll order a spare clutch to be able to backoff if it does not work. I still think the car would be too slow off the line if I just assemble the bigger bell.
Thanks,
Mika
Interstate
05-18-2004, 03:40 PM
Mika, I think your best bet would be to use the two speed setup; simply because you'll have way more acceleration and top end: the best of both worlds.
I just had an idea, let me know what you think.
Clutch manufacturers should make plugs of sorts that run vertically through the clutch. This way you could take them out for later engagement. leave them in for normal engage ment, or put in a heavier material for firmer and earlier engagement. This would be a lot easier than changing springs. less permanent than cutting material. Let me know if I should post this in the nitro forum. I'd buy a kit like that!
Yeah, nice idea. Although in "real" race cars they use centax these days which is freely adjustable. I know about the 2-speed I'm willing to try this setup first (doen already). Guys here say HPI 2-speed is not good (although it's been pretty good in my friends car) and I haven't got the WPR 2-speed working (the short time I tried). Maybe I'll soon switch back to the 2-speed. Let's see this setup first. Thanks,
-Mika
Nikon
05-30-2004, 02:57 AM
Does anyone have any pics of a OS 15 CV-RX installed in a super nitro. I'm having a hardtime installing mine.
here's few
http://www.snrt.net/SN/SN_gas_brake2.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/SN/SN_gas_brake3.jpg
Nikon
05-30-2004, 01:29 PM
Ok where my piece hooks onto the Carb is the old flat ones. Whats the part called i need to order or will my old one work??
HPI instruction sheet contains part number to lookup from Tower
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/i-a889-3.jpg
Nikon
05-30-2004, 02:17 PM
Hey found a kit. Thx alot mika! :) Kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD81&P=7)
Nikon
05-30-2004, 05:18 PM
http://www.violentsin.com/members/nikon/Nitro.jpg
Did you use the motor mount spacers that came with the kit? that plastc piece going across the bearings next to the gears are rubbing against the bearing thing next to the flywheel. anyway ideas?
is your chassis bent or just looks like it ?
dont quite understand your question but no, you dont use the spacers (when using 20mm mount) and you can install the part #A481 in both directions (#A183 up or down depending clutch bell size etc)
Nikon
05-30-2004, 06:56 PM
No my chassis is not bent. They have little lips on the side. If you look you can see the plastic piece laying ontop where the little round gears are. I used those engine spacers. Guess thats the reason its rubbing.
Toyotatogo
05-31-2004, 04:10 AM
looks tweaked to me ... lol notice the front section of the chassis is flat with the wood but the rear end were the lips is isn't ???
Fyi.... It's susposed to be flat from front to back so what did you hit .... lol ?
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3624126/55206555.jpg
Nikon
05-31-2004, 04:41 AM
Well i bought the car used from ebay. It has some metal sheet on the bottom. And the engine mounting screws are sticking out a bit. They wont go flush with the body. So thats why its sitting ******. Once i get my car up and running i will buy a new Chassis. Im just trying to get my engine and 2 speed trans in right so i dont mess anything up.
That's what I said .. it's bent. Everyone having a Super will notice that fact immediately ;)
Nikon
05-31-2004, 08:07 PM
Ya the guy that had it before messed somthing up. The Drive Hub that comes with the engine. Do you use it?
No, you don't use the hub with rs4 cars. But you can use the nice HPI oil catch along with the HPI flywheel, if you wanna have it setup nicely. See my pics above. Thanks,
Mika
Nikon
06-01-2004, 12:55 AM
Ya your car setup is nice. Anymore pics of the car. Kinda modeling it after yours ;)
did you see this one from the prevoius page
http://www.kolumbus.fi/mika.rinne/SN/fantom_race_pipe.jpg
thanks,
Mika
Nikon
06-01-2004, 01:53 AM
Ya i did. Im gonna get those rims. There the HPI ones right? Hopefully i get my pipe tomorrow. gotta order that slide carb kit and i should be ready to go. Hoping that i havent messed anything up(knock on wood)
Yeah, those are nice HPI rims; however I would suggest considering plain color Super Star wheels instead of those chrome ones; the glue does not hold very well on it and needs constant glueing.. plain ones are preferred for racing. Of course you can try fileing off the chrome where the tire rubber touches the wheel but thats just extra work. if you have few linkages etc. you'll do well off without the carb kit; By the way like many others I prefer installing the carb set opposite way to HPI's instructions, for better throttle response and greater amounnt of control when tuning it
These days I run EPIC, see below, it's a great engine having lots off low-end power and yes I can do fine with single speed and 18T clutch bell on aur local track; relatively fast ~39 mph. The pullstarter died after running 200 kilometers on track now having HPI t-15 pullstarter, it seems to be nicely constructed.
http://www.snrt.net/SN/EPIC_new_pull.jpg
But I'm also waiting for the new NovaRossi LS15PS2 .15 pullstart racing engine with side exhaust and standard shaft having over 43.500 rpm expecting over 45 mph with singlespeed 18T clutch bell. Let's after I get it installed and running.
If you wanna see some track shots, visit here:
http://www.snrt.net/ajot_2205.html
and
http://www.snrt.net/kuvat_1505.html
and maybe this, too http://www.snrt.net/ajot_1505.html
don't get too bothered with the finnish language, cheers
-mika
Nikon
06-01-2004, 03:43 AM
Ya you do need to scratch the crome off so they stick. i dont mind. I have already checked out your site. Just clicking all the links. I mange to get around fine. Good Stuff.
jerseyevo
06-03-2004, 05:15 PM
does anybody make treaded tires for the super size wheels on the super nitro?
all i see are slicks on the hpi website.
Interstate
06-03-2004, 07:51 PM
Kyosho does for their super 10 series, which is the same as HPI's super cars. They're a pretty hard compound though.
Here's my renewed Super GT-One with Novarossi .15 pullstart side exhaust engine (direct fit). EPIC18 although a great engine has to step aside.
http://www.snrt.net/whity_left.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/nova.jpg
Nikon
06-08-2004, 09:27 PM
Yummy!!
Well i got my slide carb kit. Installed it and the first pull it started right up. I pulled out the glow plug and it stoped, and cant get it started again. Is it sappose to take a million pulls to start on break in?
What engine? 15FE? Have you primed the carb correctly? Otherwise it won't start no matter how much you pull...
Interstate
06-09-2004, 03:21 PM
Wait, you said you pulled the glow plug out and it stopped. Did the engine start, then you pulled the plug out?
Nikon
06-09-2004, 04:48 PM
I have a OS 15 CV-RX. I got it started now. Just breaking it in.
Should have no starting problems with it.
Again, do you mean you pulled the plug igniter or the hole plug out ?
"I pulled out the glow plug..."
Are you sure you igniter charged fully? Take out the plug and try it with the igniter in hand, it should burn brightly in orange.
Nikon
06-10-2004, 01:16 AM
Whooooo What i meant was pulled out the glow plug lighter. I can put some gas in the engine, prime it and it starts up after the first few pulls. If it dies, its a bitch to start back up. Usually have to have someone open the carb up alittle and give it a few pulls.
But my main problem that i didnt fix is when i give it gas the wheels dont spin. It just rev's up. It started back when i had my old FE Engine. So i got this new engine and did the first few break in steps and now i need to drive it around a few. Guess what It wont ******* move. I have no idea whats causing this. (sigh)
RandyT
06-10-2004, 01:51 PM
Have you checked your clutch~? The shoes might be bad. Good luck.
Interstate
06-10-2004, 02:26 PM
Yeah, check to see if you installed your shoes and springs properly. What clutch do you have? If they are installed correctly, check for "glazed" shoes; if they look really smooth or shiny. If they are use some sand paper or scotch brite pad to scuff them up. Do the same to the inside of the clutch bell.
Can you move the car without resistance? With a generous nudge, it should move about 3-5 feet.
Nikon
06-11-2004, 01:14 AM
Well i took it apart and found a little rock from my road. I can now push my car and it will roll. Glad it was nothing inportant and i dont have to waste money. :) thx
Interstate
06-11-2004, 01:24 AM
Next time you suspect a rock in the drive train, don't force it: it could break the belt. Disassemble the car to get it out.
Nikon
06-11-2004, 01:29 AM
Well i didnt know what to suspect. i didnt think it would of been a rock. But thx
Lagwagon
06-11-2004, 04:28 PM
I just bought myself a Super Nitro! Will get it tomorrow!! Can't wait!! Will post some pictures of the custom Xbox decalled Murcielago body! Wish I could buy the Wolfpack conversion in the UK!! This is my third car in about 4 months since I joined the hobby!! First car was a Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec...still have it...great car to start with, and after that I bought a Schumacher Fusion...very fast!! and now the Super Nitro!! Hope its as controllable as they say?! Wanted a car that can be controlled at a reasonable price...
KronicRacer
06-11-2004, 04:36 PM
you can buy the conversion directly from -> www.wolfpackradicals.com they take paypal.
Lagwagon
06-11-2004, 04:54 PM
Thanks for that!!
I just bought myself a Super Nitro! Will get it tomorrow!! ... Hope its as controllable as they say?! Wanted a car that can be controlled at a reasonable price...
Congrats buddy, it IS a great car! And it handles really well pretty much out-of-the-box. However, I would suggest a couple of things to get it even better:
- Get a GT body, either the Toyota GT-One or BMW LMR
- The front shock tower that comes along the body kit is nice also. I use pink LINEAR shock springs in front, linear green at rear. They work pretty well with 800wt Kyosho silicone oil in all 4 shocks (somewhat 60wt in Associated numbers?)
- Don't use too many C-clips in shocks; manual propably advises to do so..
- Get better (belted) tires from HPI, C30 or 23R for example
OK, that will make the car well balanced. Next, for more speed you need (stock car being relevantly slow):
Two options, either
1) With stock engine 15FE
- Heavy Duty 2-speed from HPI, 12/15 bell (stock) or for larger tracks 13/16 bell
- Tuned header and Pipe Set from HPI or from MIP for example. MIP is good and the price is reasonable (not allowed for HPI Challenge)
or
2) Better engine
- for example, EPIC18 ($150) or O.S 15CV-R (~$120-150) or even for more either OS 18CV-R, NovaRossi, Sirio or RB. Keep in mind with these latter high powered engines the car will also wear out faster, especially outdrives, axles, belts, tires etc.
- Tuned header and pipe set. By getting the HPI header you can also opt for Pipes from these engine manufacturers (illegal to use in HPI Challenge other than HPI set)
- Racing clutch; this would be a nice add with better engines, also adjustable. If clutch engages too fast (heavier clutch), it will heat the engine in lower rpm. Racing clutch allows you to lighten it for later engagement.
- Better Air Filter. This can be from HPI or Motor Saver for example. Better air flow into engine and keeps the dust out. Consider also a fuel filter if your fuel tank does not have an iternal filter (stock tank does not).
What I've seen, don't bother to go for 2-speed with the option #2, the car will be fast enough with single-speed and a 16,17 or 18T clutch bell depending on your track. That will also keep the config of your car simple which is nice of course for maintenace and overal costs. With option #1, you need the 2-speed of course.
I've tried the WPR 2-speed, but I feel it's just too much of a hassle (I like the KISS!). Other parts from WPR are very useful, though, like the Gear shaft mount #WLF008 with rear belt tensioner and the Side belt tensioner (#WLF015).
Regards,
-Mika
www.snrt.net
Finland, Helsinki
Nikon
06-11-2004, 11:11 PM
Hey mika. Your servo saver set. as hpi calls it. Where did you get it?
Hey mika. Your servo saver set. as hpi calls it. Where did you get it?
Nikon, for the slide carb I use the HPI Slide Carb Linkage Set from HPI (partially, not entirely) and for steering the stock unit.
Redneck Basher
06-12-2004, 12:07 AM
Nice comments for the new owner Mika.
I would also recommend getting "downstops" for the suspension and front/rear sway bars. I found the downstops to be very helpful as they allow you to "preload the shocks" and lower the center of gravity. The downstops are very inexpensive too.
For those that may not understand, the SN suspension can be tuned with screws (4 mm I think) in the front and rear suspension arms. The screws go through the round holes in the suspension arm and contact the chassis plate, the more they are screwed in the more the suspension arms are raised. This affects ground clearance since the chassis is lowered. The lower the chassis the lower the center of gravity. This will affect your shocks and in some cases believe it or not, steering. Just make sure that each side is adjusted evenly. It can trully make a world of difference.
Is anyone else running downstops on their SN??
Thanks, buddy. No I haven't, but after reading your comments Basher, I need to think about those what you said.
On our track the Super is anyway definitely one of the best - if not THE best - handling cars after tuning it a bit, and it takes curves really smoothly; you can drive it all the way to the max not having to be afraid slipping or spinning like other cars seem to be.. even really experienced racers/drivers seem to be surprised how good this low-budget not-so-fancy-race-car can really be (got a lot of positive feedback on the track; keep in mind Finland is a paradise for Kyosho's and Mugens and Yokomos - not HPI, yet)
-Mika
Nikon
06-12-2004, 03:14 AM
I just wanna know where you got the white piece.
With the servo. You can also use similar pieces from HPI's slide carb kit. Or buy those white servo horns separately depending on your servo brand (Futaba/Hitec/JR/Airtronics/Sanwa etc)
Lagwagon
06-12-2004, 10:27 AM
Thanks for all the info guys!! Sure it will be useful!! Started to break the engine in today...it's a pain in the arse!!!! This is what the car looks like next to my Fusion!
Lagwagon
06-12-2004, 01:04 PM
another pic.
Lagwagon
06-13-2004, 08:39 AM
Mika, the clutch on my car engages at very low revs, so the car runs in gear constantly! What can I do?? I can't set the engine to a proper idle speed because of this!
Can't you screw out the idle screw? That should lower the rpm and clutch to engage. If you cannot do that 1) lighten the clutch shoe by removing some material from it 2) get a firmer clutch spring(s)
-Mika
Lagwagon
06-13-2004, 09:39 AM
The car stays in gear at very low rpm and the engine stalls because of that! The rpm is as low is at can go! Does HPI sell firmer springs?
Lagwagon
06-13-2004, 03:11 PM
sort of managed to get the clutch working! the car does'nt turn as sharp as the fusion that i have! but i must say! i enjoy having a bit of control over a car! still running the engine in! cool car!
Lagwagon
06-14-2004, 11:04 AM
Mika, don't know if you might know....the wolpack conversion, what does it include?? What do you have to buy extra??
Nikon
06-14-2004, 03:43 PM
This the back belt for are cars?
Belt (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM740&P=ML)
check out www.towerhobbies.com look for Super Nitro
Mika, don't know if you might know....the wolpack conversion, what does it include?? What do you have to buy extra??
a lot of stuff for .21 engines.. check out www.wolfpackradicals.com
(I would not propably go for the whole since Stock Super is so great :)
but surely other parts like I mentioned in earlier post
Lagwagon
06-16-2004, 02:39 PM
Will this engine work in the SN along with the Wolfpack conversion?
Will this engine work in the SN along with the Wolfpack conversion?
I would go for an onroad engine; that's offroad, right. But then, does it matter at that size..... I guess it should fit, ask mr. Wolfgang himself via email.
Lagwagon
06-17-2004, 11:20 AM
how do i tell the difference between on and off road engines??
Nikon
06-17-2004, 04:28 PM
if you are looking on towerhobbies it says right under "Notes From Our Tech Department.
RandyT
06-18-2004, 10:55 AM
Will this engine work in the SN along with the Wolfpack conversion?
I own a conversion and Wolfgang does great work on all his parts. The Conversion is great, but I wouldn't really recommend putting a .21 in it, maybe a Big Block 15. It flies like a bat out of hell with a .21 in it, but it's a very costly car to run. You won't be able to use stock tires they'll blow off in one run, so you'll need to purchase 1/8 scale adapters for it. It eats belts for breakfast, you'll need aluminum pulley's, my rear pulley is steel. The stress on the parts are so great, that I tore down the car and rebuilt it after a couple of months. But if you looking for one of the fastest cars on your block. Go for it. Good luck.
Lagwagon
06-18-2004, 04:29 PM
Hi Randy, I want my car to look exactly like yours, except for the bodyshell! What do I have to buy?? Is it possible to give me a list of what to buy, and where to buy as well?? Cool looking car man!!
RandyT
06-18-2004, 05:25 PM
Well first off, it's really the only body shell that can be run at the speeds it reaches, we're talking 75-80+ mph, I did modify a Suzuki Escudo, but that had almost to much downforce. The list of parts is long. Wolfpack Conversion is complete to convert it over. You need a Serpent Adapters to run 1/8 Serpent tires, I would use Proceed Adapters since the tire size is the same front and back, but you have to find the tires, not to many places carry them. I have a tire truer so I trued the rears down, waste of tire though. If the tires aren't even, the car pushes really badly in turns. You need aluminum pulleys as I said. .21 motor and pipe (I have a Novarossi motor and a RB Logics Pipe). These parts if you want the tires to fit under the body. http://www.rcrage.com/product_files/adptridx.html With the .21 you have to run the 300mm wheelbase, the pipe interferes with the rear tires. With the Serpent tires you'll need to trim the inner rear tire or remount the shock location. I use dogbones instead of the Universal bones since these are expensive. Off hand I can't remember what size I use, it comes from one of the electric kits, maybe the Sport or might be the Dash. You'll need urethane backed rear belts, and I mean plenty of them, they wear out daily and one pebble will flatten the belt. The front and side belt are sold by Wolfgang, order a few sets if you going to do this. If I remember you need an additional mid block for the conversion. It's been along time since I did this. You should get adjustable shocks, and Wolfgang's Two speed, but you have to purchase the HPI Two speed also since you need parts from it. This is a costly project, and will take time to set up and get running correctly, you'll need setup tools since you don't want this running off in all directions when it picks up speed, you should also have a failsafe. Good luck.
Nikon
06-21-2004, 03:18 AM
Hey mika. Where is the cheapest place you found to buy the HPI Super 5 spoke rim and tires?
and i got a 2 speed transmission but im not sure how to tune it. I read the stuff but i just dont know. I was wanting to go with what you said and switch back to single speed. What exaclty do i need?
Hi Nikon, I've ordered both from Tower and Local HPI reseller. They're pretty cheap compared to other brands so it does really make no difference where you order :-D
Are you talkin about HPI 2-speed or WPR ? You should have no problem with HPI 2-speed in tuning, but with hi revving engines like Nova it won't propably last too long...
I guess you mean the WPR one..What engine do you have? I don't think it will work with OS 15CV-R, at least I never got it work; I even cut the springs but it didn't shift... I gave up. I happy with the single speed... check out parts and the manual from HPI's site. Thanks,
Mika
Lagwagon
06-21-2004, 08:35 AM
Randy, I'll give you a go in a straight line with my Schumacher Fusion, but thats about it...lol...that conversion sounds like a long term project for a newby to the hobby....will start doing it bit by bit as the car wears out!
Lagwagon
06-22-2004, 11:59 AM
Randy, where do I buy the Serpant Adapters?? Is it just the normal Serpent Wheel hubs that I have to buy?
From Wolfpack Radicals, send email to this Mr. Wolfgang NY, he's a nice person and I'm sure he will assist you.
RandyT
06-23-2004, 01:47 PM
As Mika said, you can pick them up from Wolfpack Radicals. Remember, 1/8 scale Serpent Tires are staggered, the rears are larger then the front, so like I said you have that problem of pushing in turns, you can try to go with a larger pulley in front, I believe it's a Traxxas pulley, but I didn't have much luck with it, melted it into the mid block. Good luck.
Nikon
06-23-2004, 09:51 PM
Alright so i got my engine broken in and everything. My question is everytime i run it some gray stuff seeps out between the engine screws where the engine mounts are. and out of the exhaust port. Where the pipe connects. Is it just my screws arent tight enough? or what
Thx James
It's just propably oil, if you are running rich. The grey color could be aluminium from the new engine..
Nikon
06-24-2004, 01:05 AM
Ya its gray. It just sucks cleaning it up after everyrun. Guess i will tighten my screws down.
Hope that helps..it may be comin INSIDE your engine.. it may aluminium that "wears off" when running in your new engine..it comes out with the extra fuel and oil in it. After a while when tightening the needle screw it should be no problem..
Nikon
06-24-2004, 05:13 AM
Ok thx alot.
Lagwagon
06-29-2004, 11:01 AM
has anyone got a setup sheet for the SN?
Nikon
07-06-2004, 05:05 AM
Alright well it seems everytime i drive my car somthing has to go wrong. I cant remember the last time i drove my car a few times and nothing broke. My problem im having now is that when i gas it, it doesnt move. I know the problem is in the 2 speed trans. It happened before and i took everything off, put it back on and it ran for a few then it started acting up again. What happens is the big gear on the end is not spinning well with the other one's when the engine is started. And when i kill the engine i hear the bearing still spinning then it stops. Most recent thing i done to my car is a new racing clutch. Not sure if i messed somthing up or just bad luck? Any ideas would be smooth
TJNMT
07-06-2004, 08:34 AM
has anyone got a setup sheet for the SN?
Have you checked the hpiracing.com site
Redneck Basher
07-06-2004, 12:37 PM
Has anyone tried one of the Hotbodies "centax" type clutches on their Supernitro??
Re: I just saw this on ebay;
Center Force (Centax)
Clutch Kit
For the HPI Nitro RS4 3
Hotbodies part 61145 - $40.00
There is nothing on the Hotbodies web site and the ebay seller (RCBoyz) is not sure if it will work on a Super.
By the way the kit is not complete and it is likely that new motor mounts would be needed. But if clearance issues are okay it might allow the use of a shoe type two speed mechanism with a broader range of gears. (The WPR set-up only works with high speed gears due to interference between the clutch bell housing and the 2 speed clutch housing.)
The guy at RCBoyz did say that he thought the HPI threaded shaft adaptor (that comes in the R40 kit*) would work with the Hotbodies kit so a motor with a threaded shaft could still be used. Also the HPI threaded clutch bell gears for the RS4-3 should work with the Hotbodies kit so there is alot of options there without being overly expensive.
In an ideal situation the Hotbody kit combined with adjustable motor mounts, the HPI shaft adaptor, HPI clutch bell gears and the AE shoe type clutch would solve the age old HPI 2-speed issue.
*HPI includes in their R40 kit an adaptor that allows their centax to work with either a threaded or SG shaft. If it works that could improve the versatility of the upgrade.
I'm always looking for a new hop-up and the potential for this could be great if.....
Any experiences or opinions out there????
Redneck Basher
07-15-2004, 12:08 AM
Wow, all I did was make a single post and now over a week later and no response from anyone on anything.... :cool:
this is the first time I've killed a forum. :eek:
Kinda cool. :rolleyes:
I guess I better get back to bashin my super and leave the computer alone for awhile. :p
Hi, for some reason I didn't the email telling that there's a new post... interesting reading it now. No opinions yet, but I'll think about it, too.. Thanks,
Mika
Redneck Basher
07-15-2004, 08:56 AM
Thanks Mika, no worries about the response though, I'm just having fun.
For those that run rubber tires, has anyone noticed that HPI has discontinued several types of belted slicks recently??? They've come out with a new style. (I was unable to establish a link with the Tower web page but below are the "tech notes".)
NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT
This is a Pair of 57x35mm HPI Super-Size Racing Slick Belted Tires.
FEATURES: Super-size tires for the Super Nitro RS4.
35R compound...traction for hot-weather surfaces.
Maximum grip and long life span.
These Racing Slick tires will fit our Super-size wheels and standard
width Kyosho Super-size wheels.
A new type of fabric inner belt keeps the tires from expanding and
significantly extends the life of the tire.
Keeps the rounded profile for better cornering traction.
One-piece dark gray foam tire inserts included.
I ussually run the 33R's so this is pretty close. I'll post after I've tried them.
poopie
07-17-2004, 04:13 AM
a new 2-speed would be awesome. With a high performance motor the HD 2 speed gives inconsistant shift points and unreliable. I'm thinkg about switching back to a moderately geared 1 speed.
H-Trainer
07-18-2004, 02:56 PM
There IS a better 2-speed. It's made by Wolfpack Radicals (http://www.wolfpackradicals.com) and it can handle .21 engines.
Lagwagon
07-19-2004, 03:50 PM
Hi All,
I need help. My engine on the car(Standard 15FE) is not doing what its supposed to be doing. I followed the proper run in procedure, but this engine doesn't seem to work for me. Hard to tune. It overheats and cuts out after about three short runs. What can I do?? I checked for air leaks on the fuel liine and even got fuel line clips. Has anyone had this before??
Guys,
anyone put an OS 4-cycle engine to their Super like OS FS-26S-C(X) ? I know it's not one to race with but for fun. I wonder if it fits (I had one within my Kyosho Super but don't have it anymore more). Any links etc. would help.
TIA,
-Mika
Interstate
07-24-2004, 06:41 PM
I'm sure putting a 4 stroke is possible, I mean if I can put a sirio .18 with a pullstart in it, a 4 stroke will fit, all you need is the right mounts, and the perfect clutch and flywheel assembly to mate up with the tranny.
I've seen pics of it done, but it was so long ago. I remember that a special elbow was needed so the carb wasn't sticking out the side of the car.
Yeah, actually I got one OS .30; the only flaw is the 6mm shaft instead of 4 used in cars. But it should possible to modify the the pilot shaft to fit it. Here's few pics (without flywheel etc):
http://www.snrt.net/FS_superi.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/FS_superi2.jpg
http://www.snrt.net/FS_superi3.jpg
lttakas
07-26-2004, 03:45 PM
very nice mika looks awsome.I got some questions um i have a nitro rs4 2 and i got new gear system on it i got a 26t clutch bell and a 46t spur and i still need more speed is there anything that you guyz could give me some tips on how could i make it faster and mabe i could get better difs pullies?????let me know thanks
Lagwagon
08-09-2004, 10:40 AM
I installed the HPI T-15 engine into my super nitro this weekend and it runs like a dream!! I hate the standard 15FE. Couldn't get it to work! The T-15 is perfect...not too fast, and not too slow!!
Saboteur
08-11-2004, 01:00 AM
What parts on the drivetrain should I beef up if I decide to install an RB S5 into the SN RS4? Also I may try the MT12 first though. Got a group of local onroaders doing late night bashing and I'm gonna join the fun.
Interstate
08-11-2004, 09:48 PM
I would reccommend that you get urethane belts, aluminum pullies, aluminum ball diffs, steel dogbones, (or CVD's if you can afford them) Carbon fiber or aluminum upper deck and y-brace, Thicker bottom chassis, aluminum or titanium gear brace, and some really good brakes. Trust me you'll want them.
Saboteur
08-12-2004, 11:03 PM
Is that for just the MT12 or the S5? I'm assuming its just for the S5 :-D
Interstate
08-13-2004, 08:51 PM
Yeah, I don't think the MT12 has enough cajones to be breaking stock parts. But the chassis and gear braces reduce flex and slop by a lot and couldn't hurt.
Saboteur
08-13-2004, 11:22 PM
Ok. So how are wheels and support for it? I heard it's not that easy as well as limited body styles. Then again the bodies they have now are perfect; I like em all. Just some nice belted tires would do as ballooning happens to much with other tires. I was hoping there are some nice foam I could use with it that fit without modification. Just looking for something nice to cruise around, some local drag racing, etc. I'll think about it.
Interstate
08-13-2004, 11:50 PM
When I bought my tires HPI had something like 10 options for the super. I noticed on tower that a few were discontinued. I don't know if HPI has stopped making them or what. Check HPI racing under their tire option; tower often scatters tires in the wrong category... There is a foam conversion kit, but I don't know where to find it.
H-Trainer
08-22-2004, 06:24 AM
I don't know how many times it has been posted, but here's the link to the best foam tire conversion available: http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/rim_adapters.html
As for the S5 idea, I'd have a look at SN VipeR's website to get some ideas from his .21 SN.
NWDave
08-25-2004, 11:35 PM
Saw a link somewhere to some cheap SNRS4 bodies, like $18 each. Anyone got the link? Please??
NWDave
08-26-2004, 03:22 AM
So, after cruising through this lengthy thread, I have 2 questions.
1. What is the fastest/most powerful pullstart engine that will drop in with the stock mounts? Been looking at the Fantom .18, and the O.S. .18 CVR's, the Epic .18 and the Wasp .18 are the same engines as the Hot Bodies .18.
2. Will the stock HD 2 speed transmission handle the power of a hotter engine?
I recently ordered a SNRS4 from Ultimate Hobbies in Orange, CA. These guys rock, I highly recommend them, shipping is free on orders over $50! I'm new to onroad, but have 3 good years with the dirt crowd, I currently have 5 nitro trucks.
NWDave
08-27-2004, 10:19 AM
So, I take it this thread is dead?
At least EPIC 18 was great and perfect for the car; I assume 2-speed would last it but it was really good with 17T or 18T bell without 2-speed at all. However the pullstart .15 NovaRossi was even better (with 16T bell).
NWDave
08-30-2004, 03:52 PM
Where can a guy score a Nova Rossi .15 pullstart engine these days? I've been looking for engine options for my SNRS4, and most of the hot ones are non-pull start.
Saboteur
08-31-2004, 12:17 AM
It's gonna be hard to. All of them I believe are non pull start and are sport or race engines. There is the CX15 small block but I don't know anywhere that still has them. For Non pull start, I've seen a lot of .15CVRs and now Epics, Sirio's, Fantoms, etc. Definately go with something that has good torque and speed for the SN.
NWDave
08-31-2004, 06:04 PM
I see most engines have the IPS cranks now, how would you adapt the HPI clutch/clutch bell set-up to this? I have a brand new Traxxas 2.5 I'd like to try in the car before I spend serious money on an Italian engine!
Saboteur
08-31-2004, 11:07 PM
You will need the wolfpack engine mounts, HPI racing flywheel (for SG cranks..the .21 will work) and maybe spacers to put behind the collet on the crank. There is a thread where Rookie Solara did this. Gonna be hard to find though.
Saboteur
08-31-2004, 11:09 PM
Oh here it is. :)
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80553&page=3&pp=25
NWDave
09-01-2004, 12:16 AM
Thanks, I'll research what I need to get it going. For now, the FE .15 will have to do.
rcmart.com (HK) for example; it's a relevantly new engine from NovaRossi, very nice, had one from rcmart. Plenty fast. Reasonably priced, too
EPIC18 was also nice
NWDave
09-01-2004, 06:57 PM
Gotta have a ..12 or a 15 to race arouind here, I'd like to go with a hot .18. Was the Epic .18 you ran a threaded shaft, or the IPS crank? What country is rcmart out of? Sorry, I see, it's Hong Kong....
Saboteur
09-01-2004, 11:45 PM
The Epic comes in standard crankshaft and IPS/SG/Pilot (all are the same thing btw) crankshaft. SG's are better though. What's your budget? If you plan on racing save up for a nice .12 or .15. RB makes great engines. You'd be lucky to find an MT12 or RS12 engine on Ebay really cheap. NS12s are really awesome too. If you intend to just play and not race, the OS .18cvr will do the trick. The stats for the Epic isn't what they say it is anyway but its really nice.
I heard EPIC is made by novarossi even "made in Japan" is printed on the case..
Yeah, OS 18CVR might be nice one (had 15CVR but EPIC18 was more powerful).
If you buy the EPIC, get the threaded shaft with rotary carb, not the SG shaft. I changed later to a slide carb from HPI, they're alike
NWDave
09-02-2004, 03:17 PM
I've seen the dyno specs on the Epic .18 in RC Nitro Magazine, and it's about where the Traxxas 2.5 is power wise, 1.3 hp, but at a lower rpm range. I said it before, it's the same engine as the $80 Hot Bodies .18, and the $100 Wasp .18. Anyway, I do want to race, otherwise the choice would be simple, an OS .18 CV-RX, good quality and parts availability.
NWDave
09-07-2004, 04:05 AM
Sorry, my bad, the Epic is only 1.18 hp, the TRX 2.5 is 1.3.
jerseyevo
09-07-2004, 07:45 PM
the hotbodies .18 engine is a ABN engine (aluminum brass nickel)as opposed to the other .18's which are ABC aluminum,brass,chrome.
my experience is to stay away from ABN engines as they have a short life span.
Lawson456superN
09-25-2004, 10:51 PM
I have an O.S max .18 and I LOVE IT!!! starts quick runs quick! and I wouldn't get any other engine from now on the only engine I run in my cars airplanes and boats is O.S!!!
nascarfan8
10-03-2004, 10:49 PM
i just bought the super nitro rs4, and i am going to upgrade to the stage three kit.
i was wondering if i should break in the engine like any of the other engines i have had in the past on my rc10gt?
if i should do anything different would you please help me with this
the reason i'm upgrading it because the stock carb. does not have low end setting and small coolong head, i'm not really worried about changing the piston and sleve yet but if i do should i break it in differently? :)
microrcdude
10-04-2004, 12:23 AM
well, yes, you will need to break the engine in after installing the stage 3 kit.
Lagwagon
10-06-2004, 01:58 PM
What is the stage three kit??
Lagwagon
10-06-2004, 03:35 PM
This is what my baby looks like....I want to do the Wolfpack conversion on this.
Interstate
10-06-2004, 04:08 PM
Not that the wolfpack conversion is bad, but you've already put so much money to make it look like that. I'd say save yourself some money, and forget the WP conversion. It's really only for serious racers.
I'd say get a tuned pipe, better radio components, and some suspension work.
PJx5x
10-06-2004, 05:35 PM
alright, i have a Super nitro, and its pretty much stock... i want to make it a lil bit better, but i dont wanna dump $800 into it.
im getting a tuned pipe, 2 speed, and prolly a Airtronics MX3. i was also looking into the Epic .18 and i have a few questions. will it mount or will i need the WP .21 mount or anything? and should i get the slide or rotary carb?
thanks guys!
PS: is that the best engine choice for under $150?
NWDave
10-06-2004, 08:05 PM
I wouldn't spend the money on an Epic, no matter how good people "say" it is. It proves on the dyno that it's weaker than a Traxxas 2.5, and it's more money than a lot of engines. Hobby People had the 1.75 real HP Sirio .15's for $159, and the new O.S. .18's are working well for SNRS4's.
PJx5x
10-06-2004, 08:40 PM
ic, im looking at the OS .18 CV-RX
which is better?
O.S. .18 CV-RX (S) w/11J Rotary Carb
O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb
and i think i will need the engine mount? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=M)
thanks guys.
Interstate
10-06-2004, 09:03 PM
Those engine mounts are pretty much junk, find some better ones.
Those two engines are the same, except the first one has a short pilot shaft.
If you're creative, spring for the sirio .18 like I did. It's tough to put in, but well worth it.
PJx5x
10-06-2004, 09:19 PM
can u give me a link? i couldnt find it... and what mounts are better?
my AIM is PJx5x if you have it... thanks
PJx5x
10-07-2004, 10:43 PM
*bump*
uhhh, one more question, lol... sorry im a newb.
this lola body i see people using, which version is it, i searched and i found multiple versions.
will this (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_64_69&products_id=7469)
and what about the Wasp .18 engine... its only $99, is it a good buy?
thanks
NWDave
10-08-2004, 12:33 AM
The $99 Wasp, $140 Epic, and the $70 Hot bodies .18's seem to be all the same engine, they look the same, only the heads are different. The sleeves are ABC on the Wasp and Epic engines, and only nickel plated on the H-B engine. BTW, you'll need the longer shaft "standard" threaded engine, to fit a SNRS4 with standard chassis, clutch/flywheel, and mounts. The "S" in the O.S. engine descriptions is for the short shaft version to fit in in tight chassis with a shorter clutch setup, like an RC10GT or a T-Maxx.
PJx5x
10-08-2004, 07:27 PM
thanks.
will this (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_64_69&products_id=7469) body fit without heavy modfication? will it fit at all?
thanks guys!
NWDave
10-08-2004, 08:27 PM
I think that body would be too wide, and too long, since it's for a bigger 1/8 scale car with the wider wheels and tires. HPI makes a Toyota GTP, and a BMW GTP body that look similar and are meant for the SNRS4.
I just checked the specs on Tower Hobbies site, and the Protoform Lola body is 10 1/2 inches wide, while the HPI Toyota GT-1 Super Nitro Body is only 9 1/8 inches wide. The Lola might work if you did the wide 1/8 scale tire/wheel conversion, otherwise it'll look funny hangin' over the tires so far. Good luck!
C0NTENDER
10-15-2004, 08:47 AM
and should i get the slide or rotary carb?
Go with the slide carb. Sorry for the splatter, but if anyone is looking for some very hard to find super nitro bodys, just send me a PM.
Lawson456superN
10-17-2004, 08:37 PM
were can I get foams I NEED them bad!!
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:15 AM
A few photos....
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:16 AM
another...
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:18 AM
and another....
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:19 AM
and another...
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:22 AM
another pic...
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:24 AM
another....
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 11:29 AM
And with the new pipe and threaded shocks...
Lagwagon
11-04-2004, 12:15 PM
Next on the list is a more powerfull engine and new radiogear...
Lagwagon
11-14-2004, 05:34 PM
I just bought a Novarossi LS15 PS2 engine! 1.7hp, 40 000 rpm! Is this thread still alive? or am I the only one present?
NWDave
11-15-2004, 08:52 PM
Where did you score the engine? I've been wanting to upgrade from the standard O.S. .15 CV-X I've been running.
Lagwagon
11-16-2004, 05:02 AM
I bought it from www.rcmart.com.....
Lagwagon
11-16-2004, 05:34 AM
think i bought the last one they had!!!
Saboteur
11-16-2004, 09:20 PM
The engine will produce less power that rated at. Never believe manufacturer stats. Those are just estimates. Really nice car btw. I'd have one now instead of the R40 if SN's were big, but they kinda died. :(
Lagwagon
11-18-2004, 08:35 AM
Saboteur, I have a spair set of anodised purple heat sink engine mounts brand new in the packaging if you are interested....
Saboteur
11-18-2004, 10:53 PM
No thnx. I'm good with my R40. Just gonna run it stock and trying to save for an MT instead at the moment.
Lagwagon
11-24-2004, 12:30 PM
The engine will produce less power that rated at. Never believe manufacturer stats. Those are just estimates. Really nice car btw. I'd have one now instead of the R40 if SN's were big, but they kinda died. :(
At least I know its gonna be alot quicker than the standard engine....
Saboteur
11-24-2004, 09:08 PM
WAY faster than stock. Make sure you have plenty of traction otherwise you'd be skidding from standing till you shift into second gear. Infact, with that power, you can run a taller gear ratio.
Lagwagon
11-30-2004, 11:11 AM
Looks to me like the Super Nitro died just as I started to enjoy the car....it's not even in Europe's 2005 HPI catalogue anymore....very sad!
TXTRCR
12-04-2004, 05:04 PM
I still like my super nitro. i bought it used about a year ago, its still stock other than a cooling head and a 2 speed and a different body but other than that i think its fine the way it is. I put it up at the beginning of summer to do some R/C Boating and when it got too cool outside to run boats i took the car out of storage. Now get this two months or more have gone by and not a drop of fuel has touched the engine. I took the car out and filled the tank and pulled the rope about 5 times after giving it a good prime and it started and ran just like it did when i put it in storage and didnt require tuning at all. Thats how you tell when you got a keeper. My tmaxx has to be retuned every day i run it, my 1/8th scale buggy (ofna Ultra LX Pro) had to be retuned when the weather shifted a couple of degrees. My super nitro hasnt let me down in the least.
Saboteur
12-05-2004, 01:35 AM
The reason why it easier to tune is that its a sport engine. Rotary carbs don't need that much tuning compared to slide carbs as they are less sensative to low end needle settings. Also its a single needle engine. The weather isn't always the same everyday and thats why you find sometimes you may have to do a little tuning. Thats no big deal though. Use it as practice to learn the skill of engine tuning. With that being said though, my RB S5 (.21) runs flawlessly all the time. Very little tuning require. :)
Lagwagon- It's coming close to winter some most of the onroad guys are packing it up...well atleast for the guys who have to contend with the cold. There are still guys who are true "polar bears" and bring their rides out in the winter untill it snows. Then, it's time to bust out the MTs. As for the SN RS4, it's days are over. If they came out with a larger selection of wheels, bodies, and a more updated kit with more support, it would probably be sell better, however that's not happening anytime soon. Lucky there are still places like Wolf Pack Radicals who offer upgrade parts for the car. The classes for it though are deminishing and thats another reason why you don't see to many of them. 1/10th scale nitro sedan classes are booming because of their affordability and speed with even most sport engines. Also larger selection of parts, upgrades and bodies.
TXTRCR
12-05-2004, 11:45 AM
Rotary carbs don't need that much tuning compared to slide carbs as they are less sensative to low end needle settings.
obviously you have never owned a traxxas car or truck, the rotary carbs i have found that dont require that much tuning are the os carbs. You are right though the single needle carbs are a breeze to tune sometimes. Sometimes you get that air leakin one that will give you fits.
Lagwagon
12-05-2004, 12:30 PM
Started to run the engine in today....this is a great engine for the SN!! It is so much quicker than the T-15 and I'm still running in! It will outrun the HPI T-15 on half throttle!! I'm gonna get myself the Futaba 3PK now! Highest temp while running it today was 182 and started to lean the engine out....
Saboteur
12-05-2004, 10:47 PM
obviously you have never owned a traxxas car or truck, the rotary carbs i have found that dont require that much tuning are the os carbs. You are right though the single needle carbs are a breeze to tune sometimes. Sometimes you get that air leakin one that will give you fits.
Obviously you misunderstood my post :rolleyes:. What does the os carb have to do with the traxxas car or truck? It doesn't matter though, but in general slide carbs are still more sensative on low end adjustments, meaning you have to make adjustments in small increments. And FYI, I don't own a traxxas, but have worked on few and the 2.5 engine.
TXTRCR
12-05-2004, 11:37 PM
no i did under stand your post. the traxxas cars and trucks i was refering to were the ones that had the god aweful trx pro .15 engine with rotary carb that thing was a monster to tune. Os carbs have nothing to do with traxxas but i was just pointing out that the Os carbs rotary and slide are very easy to tune. I actually prefer the two needle slide carb to the single or dual needle rotary carb because the throttle response is so much quicker and the carbs stay were they are set.
Saboteur
12-06-2004, 05:10 PM
Oh ok. Why didn't ya say so then? lol. :) Yeah few rotary carb engines been a bitch to tune. I only found the old trx pro .15 to be somewhat a little hassle compared to many others.
Toyotatogo
12-08-2004, 01:44 AM
Lagwagon your super ten is nice .... almost all powerline aluminum (http://www.powerlineracing.com) parts.... It sure looks heavy, but sturdy ....
I'm glad this thread is still moving. It has been awhile since I've been back here .....
tphss
12-11-2004, 02:57 AM
Hmmm, first of all: ****!
Oh well, after spending countless hours and good money on my SN (this is a pain..), I also got a good used RB X15 engine (big block) and I bought the wolfpack big block engine mount. So far sound good right? WELL NO.
The left mount touches the middle pully (of the long belt), and there is no setup i haven't tried (even with another big block engine mount) that either the mount is clear from touching something, or the engine is clear from touching the disc brake.
Well, the list of upgrades goes on and on:
-Various, mostly powerline, aluminum parts
-carbon fiber parts
-most plastic that was left will now be replaced with carbon graphite
-wolfpack: bellcrank (with custom linkage), 2-speed upgrade, serpent wheel adaptors (and front serpent all around), engine mounts (theoretic.. lol)
-Ball diffs
-threaded shocks
-F/R universals
Anyway.
So now, I need new small block mounts, and an engine: the O.S. 18CV-R non-ps, slide carb. (god damn so much money#$!!@$#$@!).
Well, can you people suggest small block regular mounts?
Toyotatogo
12-12-2004, 01:16 AM
When you mount the big block engine mounts you don't use the 3rd hole closet to the gears .... You only need the first two holes to mount the bb engine mounts .... The engine needs to hang off the side a little to work correctly ... :)
tphss
12-12-2004, 02:22 AM
What do you mean? to mount the engine mounts to the chassis I use only the 2 holes from each side that are at the side? if I do that:
1) the engines mount sstick off the chassis.
2) the crankshaft (the bell) does not reach the transmission gears.
Maybe cause I have an aftermarket chassis? but it has the same mounting holes as original. wierd.
I think i'll make it simple and use a small block, with powerline mounts or something, maybe the regular mounts from wolfpack.
Toyotatogo
12-12-2004, 02:30 AM
What do you mean? to mount the engine mounts to the chassis I use only the 2 holes from each side that are at the side? if I do that:
1) the engines mount sstick off the chassis.
2) the crankshaft (the bell) does not reach the transmission gears.
Maybe cause I have an aftermarket chassis? but it has the same mounting holes as original. wierd.
I think i'll make it simple and use a small block, with powerline mounts or something, maybe the regular mounts from wolfpack.
Question #1 It's okay if the mounts stick off the side of the chassis that's normal.
Question #2 Your engine mounts have the ability to slide forward am I correct??? their adjustable mounts so just slide them forward and it should line up fine with your tranny gear mesh.....(provided your using the wpr flywheel and a rs42, 3 clutch bell) !!!
Lemme take a photo of my mounts maybe it would be easier to understand cuz it can be kinda confusing installing the wpr mounts .....
Toyotatogo
12-12-2004, 02:48 AM
okay ....
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3624126/76353545.jpg
It has to be setup like this to work..... Only using the 4 holes closest to the edge of the chassis, then your mounts have the ability to slide forward on the built in sliders inside them push them forward and it should mesh with your tranny gear (provided your using the wpr flywheel and a HPI RS42, 3 Clutch bell) .... !!!!
tphss
12-12-2004, 03:38 AM
Toyota, you have my respect.
The funny thing is that I thought about it myself and then someone at the hobby shop said something about that, and for some reason i decided not to even try.
Well, I tried now, mounts on engine and on the chassis and the crank looks just about right!
I'll try to build everything tomorrow and see how are the fittings!
Toyotatogo
12-12-2004, 05:08 AM
Toyota, you have my respect.
The funny thing is that I thought about it myself and then someone at the hobby shop said something about that, and for some reason i decided not to even try.
Well, I tried now, mounts on engine and on the chassis and the crank looks just about right!
I'll try to build everything tomorrow and see how are the fittings!
no prob glad I could assist ..... I know it's hard as ever for me to explain something through typing ..... lol, I just rather do it hands on .... lol but since that's not the case when on computers I'm glad I have the digi handy and can just post a photo of what I have .....
mattmasta
12-13-2004, 06:18 PM
First off, sorry about asking a question thats probably been asked hundreds of times before, but reading 40 pages is gonna take awhile.
ok, stock chassis is all bent up, whats a good replacement? What can I do to get rid of all the suspension and steering slop? As for the steering, can the powerline's delrin bushing be replaced with bearings? Or does anyone make a setup that comes with them? thanks.
Wolfgang
12-13-2004, 11:41 PM
HI Toyotogo - thanks for bailing me out on this one - hihi
TP you spend good money for the items you bought -
service comes along with it - but I can only be of help
wen drivers ask - or take a peek on my page -
which I admit could use big time help . hihi
Toyoto talking about little problems -- any projects going on?
or trying to figure out which car to speed up next, hihi
How about the old Super doing anything with it?
Need something lets talk about it.
wolfgang
Toyotatogo
12-14-2004, 02:00 AM
HI Toyotogo - thanks for bailing me out on this one - hihi
TP you spend good money for the items you bought -
service comes along with it - but I can only be of help
wen drivers ask - or take a peek on my page -
which I admit could use big time help . hihi
Toyoto talking about little problems -- any projects going on?
or trying to figure out which car to speed up next, hihi
How about the old Super doing anything with it?
Need something lets talk about it.
wolfgang
Hey wolfgang ........ what's good man ...... !!!! It's been a while I tell you ..... lol :cool:
How's things going over there in the mad scientist lab .... lol :D
Yea the motor mount thingy can be confusing it took me a while when I first got mine 2 years ago .... I had to log on to Steve Ponds 100mph site just to see how they were susposed to mount.... but I got the idea ....
Nah, nothing too new ....? I recently dusted my super nitro off and just rebuilt it today with scavanged parts around the house..... I sold all my engines Novamega 05 and pipes :( for it though ... I don't know what motor I will install on it next.....
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3411198/76601832.jpg
I've been so busy enjoying the truggy GT 1/10th 1/8 conversion buggy/truggy, and my RS4-2 which I just sold the NSR .12 .... I'm waiting to drop a .18 TZ 2.2hp motor in that puppy I need to push past 75-80 .... lol :D
Money, money, and more money ..... lol :eek: where does it end ..... lol hehe
Lagwagon
12-31-2004, 06:17 AM
I fried my 2 speed transmission yesterday!! Don't know what happened....I thought I had everything alligned properly...!!
Saboteur
12-31-2004, 12:22 PM
From other people who used it, they say the 2speed isn't worthy of buying. That seems to be a common problem. Too bad they don't make shoe type 2speeds for the SN. I wonder if they will help instead of the cam type that shifts very hard.
Saboteur
12-31-2004, 12:25 PM
BTW, with that much power in your ride, you can easily use a single speed. Not only is that less hassle to worry about since there are no xtra gears, but your engine is strong enough to pull a taller gearing.
Lagwagon
12-31-2004, 01:02 PM
I think I will go back to the standard single speed for now! Do you think the extra weight from the aluminium parts puts more strain on the transmission? Because I've replaced all the plastic parts with aluminium parts....think I'm gonna go back to the plastic and carbon fibre parts....because the car is a bit heavy!
Lagwagon
12-31-2004, 01:06 PM
I didn't know that the threaded shaft screws into the crankshaft....looks like the the shaft came loose...can I put thread lock on the threaded shaft where it screws into the engine? or will it damage the engine?
Saboteur
12-31-2004, 01:11 PM
Yeah, I too go for lighter parts than all aluminum. To me a lot of Alum=eye candy, wasted $$$. I mean all your're gona get is responses of how blinged out the car is. Nothing more. I'd just go for a lighter 3mm chassis, carbon upper deck, delrin parts, and that's bout it. For the crankshaft, if it's threaded (fully threaded crank) you need a clutch nut that's for standard cranks. These usually have a pilot shaft tip at the end. That's the one you want to use. I always tighten mine fully with a bit of torque, and if anything a little loctite or krazy glue won't hurt.
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 12:19 PM
I must say, the single speed makes it easier to tune the engine for top end speed! Ordered the new gears for the 2 speed....where do you race your cars? I can't find a track in London....
Saboteur
01-02-2005, 02:02 PM
I'm in NY. I'll travel into the connecticut area to find tracks as my old track is about 1hr 30mins from where I live now.
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 08:37 PM
Perfect setup on my Super Nitro....
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 08:40 PM
Another pic...
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 08:46 PM
This is a pic of the RRP front ball diff...don't know if I should try the one way diff yet...
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 08:49 PM
And the RRP ball diff on the rear end....
Lagwagon
01-02-2005, 08:57 PM
And back to the single speed...I fried the gears on the 2 speed after the threaded shaft came loose!
Saboteur
01-03-2005, 02:19 AM
Sweet ride :)
H-Trainer
01-06-2005, 07:35 PM
... Too bad they don't make shoe type 2speeds for the SN. ...
This has probably been posted a dozen times in this thread, but here once more: Check www.wolfpackradicals.com and www.swisswpr.ch.vu for the ultimate SN upgrades like cam-type 2-speed that can handle .21 power.
Toyotatogo
01-09-2005, 12:59 AM
Lagwagon your super nitro is a tank with all of that aluminum.... :eek:
Lagwagon
01-09-2005, 07:43 AM
Yes I know...I'm gonna remove all the aluminium parts and make the car as light as possible now....I just did that for the show!
ic0nn
01-10-2005, 03:11 AM
Hey wolfgang ........ what's good man ...... !!!! It's been a while I tell you ..... lol :cool:
How's things going over there in the mad scientist lab .... lol :D
Yea the motor mount thingy can be confusing it took me a while when I first got mine 2 years ago .... I had to log on to Steve Ponds 100mph site just to see how they were susposed to mount.... but I got the idea ....
Nah, nothing too new ....? I recently dusted my super nitro off and just rebuilt it today with scavanged parts around the house..... I sold all my engines Novamega 05 and pipes :( for it though ... I don't know what motor I will install on it next.....
http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3411198/76601832.jpg
I've been so busy enjoying the truggy GT 1/10th 1/8 conversion buggy/truggy, and my RS4-2 which I just sold the NSR .12 .... I'm waiting to drop a .18 TZ 2.2hp motor in that puppy I need to push past 75-80 .... lol :D
Money, money, and more money ..... lol :eek: where does it end ..... lol hehe
toyotatogo:
where did you get those spoke rims? are they the same as the old cross racing ones or are they discontinued kyosho units?
Toyotatogo
01-12-2005, 02:56 AM
toyotatogo:
where did you get those spoke rims? are they the same as the old cross racing ones or are they discontinued kyosho units?
These are Hot Bodies White 15- Spoke Wheels For HPI Super Nitro Part #11500 Discontinued
I got these rims from a local hobbyshop. When I used to run my Supernitro back then I used to buy them alot, but now they are discontinued by manufacture (That's what I was told by the hobbyshop that orders them) I was so pOed :mad: when I heard this, I loved the detail of the HB rims and was sadden to hear this. I dunno maybe someone still has a few in stock somewhere, but I doubt it.. I tried checking the HB site, but no luck ... I may have the only 4 left known to man....lol
I so hate when stuff gets discontinued .... :mad:
ic0nn
01-13-2005, 05:26 AM
These are Hot Bodies White 15- Spoke Wheels For HPI Super Nitro Part #11500 Discontinued
I got these rims from a local hobbyshop. When I used to run my Supernitro back then I used to buy them alot, but now they are discontinued by manufacture (That's what I was told by the hobbyshop that orders them) I was so pOed :mad: when I heard this, I loved the detail of the HB rims and was sadden to hear this. I dunno maybe someone still has a few in stock somewhere, but I doubt it.. I tried checking the HB site, but no luck ... I may have the only 4 left known to man....lol
I so hate when stuff gets discontinued .... :mad:
i hear ya. i feel like i'm 4 years too late to be a supe nitro fan. building up my super nitro was fun but locating the option parts i want are such a pain. building up a sn rally now and luckily its been pretty painless except for locating that front carbon fibre shocktower.
well thanx for the info. now i gotta see if i can hunt down these rims.
btw, i saw your NRS4 in the OS 18 TZ thread and noticed the aluminum steering on it. Is that a wolfpack radical unit and if so I was wondering if you have a part number? thanx again.
Toyotatogo
01-14-2005, 01:38 AM
i hear ya. i feel like i'm 4 years too late to be a supe nitro fan. building up my super nitro was fun but locating the option parts i want are such a pain. building up a sn rally now and luckily its been pretty painless except for locating that front carbon fibre shocktower.
well thanx for the info. now i gotta see if i can hunt down these rims.
btw, i saw your NRS4 in the OS 18 TZ thread and noticed the aluminum steering on it. Is that a wolfpack radical unit and if so I was wondering if you have a part number? thanx again.
Yea that's all wolfgang engineered parting on my car from the chassis to the the upper desk all his creation ... :)
I'm not sure the part number, but I have his website send him an email he
ll help you out in what you need .... http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/
tphss
01-14-2005, 11:12 PM
noticed the aluminum steering on it.
Yeah it's wolfpack. And it's most defenatly worth it, works so smooth and rigid.
Only thing is that I had to make custom linkage... which wasn't too bad.
ic0nn
01-15-2005, 03:29 AM
thanx again guys. man, my projects are getting more and more expensive!
blackgtx
01-16-2005, 08:24 PM
I had just bought a Super nitro after seeing my friends this summer. Man are they hard to find new. I had been doing some research on hop-ups but I was wondering if you guy's could tell me which companie's still offer them.
I would also like to know which type or brand of tire can I buy besides the slicks. Also if there is any way to put wider wheel on it.
By the way the kit I just bought has a brochuer in it from 2001.
Thanks Andy
Lagwagon
01-17-2005, 05:00 AM
Hi Andy,
As they said above...http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/
...and Tower Hobbies will have some parts from Powerline Racing, there is Ebay, GPM Racing...Kyosho had the wider rims, but they have been discontinued so they are very hard to find, Wolfpack sells the conversion for 1/8 scale foams.
There are foams for sale om ebay but I don't know what they are like...full set for $28.99, just do a search for "Super Nitro" on Ebay....there is another shop... www.pewterbay.com he will basically get hold of any HPI part that you can think of.
Hope this helps a bit.....
blackgtx
01-18-2005, 09:44 AM
thanks for the links I had already checked out wolfpack and their are som interesting things on their. I think I will be buying some wheels from pewterbay this week. Tires seem kind of hard to find with any tread pattern. I might try some rally tires and see if I can fudge some proline tires. After all they are alot cheeper than the monster truck tire I am used to buying.
Is there any after market alum. shock that everyone seems to use and have good luck with or will any kind work also what weight shock oil seems to work the best. I am going to be driving it on a black to parking lot not a track once the snow leaves
Lagwagon
01-18-2005, 12:48 PM
Pewterbay will be the best for parts and check CTY300's auctions on ebay for some shocks as well....I bought most of my hopup parts from him! Great service and fast shipping!
I'm beginning to think that I should part out my SNRS4 and sell the parts off on eBay.
BlueBeast8-Port
01-19-2005, 07:48 AM
Hello, Im looking into buying an onroad car i can put some serious power to. Would this be the best bet for a .21? What all do i need in order to drop a .21 in and what do i need to upgrade to handle the power. Also what are some good hop ups and engine to use to get speeds pretty high. I saw that video of the guy hitting 100 MPH and fell in love. I must buy one. All help is appreciated. Thanks
Saboteur
01-19-2005, 01:48 PM
Save your time an buy another car. This car is outdated and there are few places that sell these as well as parts, which means either constant orders incase you bust something, or just order in bulk. That 100mph vid took so many mods to get to that kinda speed you'd have to dump in another $400-$500+ to see that. Also, spend another $100-$300 for upgrades for the SN in general. It's easier to buy one of those 10th scale nitro sedans like the cen or schumacher fusion which already have a .21 engine and can travel upto 70mph.
ic0nn
01-21-2005, 10:54 AM
saboteur: this debate has gone on numerous times in the past about the RS4 series in general. the SNRS4 is basically for fun and I honestly dont see any alternatives as the FW04 is discontinued. The fusion .21 is a "normal" 1/10 scaler so I dont believe that is a great comparison.
bluebeast: the super nitro can ultimately achieve a speed of 100mph but that project car, as saboteur has said, is heavily modded with custom machined gearing and pulleys. if you do decide to build a speedrun car a good place to look for the drop in .21 conversion is www.wolfpackradical.com . I have ordered from him before and he is a very nice and friendly guy.
also be aware that the drivetrain originally meant for 0.5 to 1hp engines. I dont think the designers had in mind of putting it through 2hp+ of torture so beef up the tranny if you are planning to run a high hp mill.
like saboteur says, if you want to build a speed machine in general there are other alternatives that would be easier and cheaper than the SNRS4. only build one if you like the car or the scale size of it.
black gtx: according to my friend, the car itself has an understeer quality since much of the weight is distributed towards the rear (perhaps also cuz of the 4wd aspect). you can either tune it via suspension or you can have a bias through tire compounds with softer fronts and harder rears. also another idea is to use a heavier rear sway to help the car rotate. I dont recommend the HPI ones as they are not very effective. the GPM blade styles look like a good bet or you can try to make your own.
performance wise the best tires are RJ rides, but they are slick tires. if you are looking for treaded tires then you can try kyosho tires as they do make some low profile treaded. tamiya also makes super nitro sized tires but i'm not sure if they ever made treaded ones.
ic0nn
01-21-2005, 10:56 AM
Yea that's all wolfgang engineered parting on my car from the chassis to the the upper desk all his creation ... :)
I'm not sure the part number, but I have his website send him an email he
ll help you out in what you need .... http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/
nice! i have some wolfpack stuff, but also numerous other aftermarket as well. do you have a birds eye view of the top of the car and the bottom :D? want to see what other super nitros look like.
Saboteur
01-21-2005, 03:17 PM
Ic0nn- No offense to the SNRS4. I wanted one for myself. Just that with limited resources on wheels and bodies, I didn't have much of a choice. Wouldn't have been able to order much either since I got to my LHS to get things. :(
ic0nn
01-22-2005, 02:34 PM
Ic0nn- No offense to the SNRS4. I wanted one for myself. Just that with limited resources on wheels and bodies, I didn't have much of a choice. Wouldn't have been able to order much either since I got to my LHS to get things. :(
LoL, nah its cool. My SNRS4 doesnt take any offense ;).
car preferences is a funny thing. two years ago i would not have touched a car like the SNRS4 with a 10ft pole. now it has got to be my all time favourite in a long list of cars.
i used to love 200mm cars but now its getting kinda dull with everyone running taxi cab bodies with foam setups. the cars are too specifically geared towards racing compared to what their original intents were; parking lot bashers.
but i digress. body and wheel/tire choices are somewhat poor. but it isnt too difficult to find. towerhobbies.com still has a pretty good stock of super nitro stuff. they dont carry the 35R-27R tires anymore but the D30-40 compound looks ok. i know body styles are a problem but i think there are still enough fun choices available from HPI.
Saboteur
01-22-2005, 03:03 PM
Yeah, atleast they are some. They should remake the SN RS4 with a whole new setup: one that can handle a .12-.18 high powered engine, RE or SE compatibale engine mounts and upgraded parts. They may not think about that though.
ic0nn
01-23-2005, 12:15 PM
Yeah, atleast they are some. They should remake the SN RS4 with a whole new setup: one that can handle a .12-.18 high powered engine, RE or SE compatibale engine mounts and upgraded parts. They may not think about that though.
well, you can stuff high powered engines into the car and it will work. any small block rear exhaust and side exhaust engine will be a direct drop in. the problem is reliability and parts wear.
my friends have various engine setups. one of them is using the OS .18 CV-R while another is gonna stuff the monster OS .18 TZ into it. for myself i was gonna use a standard Novarossi MT12 but i scratched that idea (after seeing their insane HP mills) and got a RS12T5 for it now. we are all using wolfpacks beefed up rear belt and two of us have gone all aluminum pulleys.
its gonna be funny to see the OS .18 TZ in the super nitro :D .
Saboteur
01-23-2005, 05:22 PM
Sure any other parts of the car don't need upgrading other than the belts? I was told it would need other things than that. Most definately will need them if I were to stuff my RB S5 in there, however it's been traded for something.
C0NTENDER
01-23-2005, 10:35 PM
I have to agree. If you know where to look, you can still find the part. Heck, I was about to build another super out of spare parts, but got tired up on other projects. Now I have to find a way to dump and new wolfpack main chassis.
I would have to say, out of all the cars I have had, the Super is one of my favorite. I don't think I would ever get rid of it.
MaxPerformance
01-25-2005, 03:46 PM
It was a very easy kit to build for me but i dont know too many people in my neighborhood with them. It would be fun to race around with someone who does.
MaxPerformance
01-25-2005, 04:27 PM
I have a super nitro but the brakes dont stop as good as i want them to and they dont make brake shoes for these type of brake pads, i am also using a fiber brake disc.any suggestions on how to improve my braking? :confused:
blackgtx
01-25-2005, 09:34 PM
I had just put my brand new one together and noticed the stock brakes don't look like it will stop good. I am used to the monster trucks and buggies. This is my first onroad but after looking at my deul disc brack set up on my savage and the stock break on the super nitro it might just work. I might have to look into it tomarrow
Interstate
01-25-2005, 10:14 PM
maxperformance, use some medium grit sandpaper to help the fiber disc stop better. Try to do this without touching the face of the disc either. The fiber discs will absorb oil from your fingers, air, and fuel better than a sponge maknig the disc nearly innefective.
I think RRP makes a metal disc with pads that are supposed to be the best brakes, though a bit heavy and costly. They may be discontinued though.
Blackgtx, you're right, the plastic brakes are next to useless unles you're running a 200oz/in servo, but that's silly.
MaxPerformance
01-26-2005, 02:29 AM
does anyone have any good idears on making the brakes on this car perform better?
MaxPerformance
01-26-2005, 02:46 AM
maxperformance, use some medium grit sandpaper to help the fiber disc stop better. Try to do this without touching the face of the disc either. The fiber discs will absorb oil from your fingers, air, and fuel better than a sponge maknig the disc nearly innefective.
I think RRP makes a metal disc with pads that are supposed to be the best brakes, though a bit heavy and costly. They may be discontinued though.
Blackgtx, you're right, the plastic brakes are next to useless unles you're running a 200oz/in servo, but that's silly.
are u saying that i should glue sandpaper to the brake pads or just sand the fiber down because i have tried both and it still doesn't work.
MaxPerformance
01-26-2005, 03:22 AM
Just a side note of the .21 engine.........you have to concern about the TIRES with those engine.......Without a doubt, MS 21 Evo will give you monster power, but those engine are designed to mount onto something like Veteq or Vector NT or should I say "950" now.......those 1/8th monster are using 45mm wide rear FOAM to handle those 2.8 hp engine, and usually you will need a new set of foams every single day of race.....
I have seen plenty of JP .21 or other big block 21 engine on SNRS4....however, most of the time they are just for DRAG racing use or just parking lot playing......never on the real race, because they usually BLEW away on the straight, but at the turns, they either ended up at the CURB, or major UNDERSTEERING due to the extra power, not to mention tires flew out, chip foams, and other money concern damage on the car due to the extra power.
I love to see FAST car, but if you are planning to race the SNRS4, think about something smaller (that is NOT NECESSARY SLOWER)...like .15 big block or some TURBO small block .12 engine, with the 2-speed, high gear and right setting, your SNRS4 might surprised you even racing with those big block .15 Serpent IMPACT (Trust me, I saw plenty of Serpent IMPACT can not have any advantage over SNRS4 with a MT-12 ROAR legal engine, and my SNRS4 will join the HPI force to proof that faster is NOT always better).....
Just my opinion..........
what is your opinion about putting a HPI Nitro Star Pro .21R SC engine on a SN. Here are the SPECS: Crankcase: 2-5/8" (from rear of case to front without shaft)
Height: 4" from bottom of case to top of head)
Width: 1-13/16" (mount Flange)
Mount Holes: 1-7/16" (mesured for center to center width)
Mount holes: 7/8" (Between holes front and back)
RPM: Over 32,000rpm
Horsepower: 2.3
Crankshaft diameter: 5mm (clutch bell area)
Crankshaft diameter: 6.35 (threaded portion)
Crankshaft screw: 3 x 12mm caphead screw
Weight: 320grams
Bore: 16.26mm
Stroke: 16.80mm
Capacity: 3.49cc (.21)
Carburetor: 9mm slide adjustable type with restrictor (reducer)
Interstate
01-26-2005, 01:04 PM
are u saying that i should glue sandpaper to the brake pads or just sand the fiber down because i have tried both and it still doesn't work.
If you've sanded down the disc, and it still doesn't brake pretty hard then you need to adjust your linkage and the caliper spaceing.
I've used the fiber disc with some Futaba 3003 servos and still had this car stop on a dime.
MaxPerformance
01-26-2005, 06:13 PM
I need more drive buddies to race with. does anyone live in NY or close to it? Im kind of tired of not having to have the same amount of fun as people that race on tracks. :(
MaxPerformance
01-26-2005, 06:18 PM
are u saying that i should glue sandpaper to the brake pads or just sand the fiber down because i have tried both and it still doesn't work.
I'll try it this spring when it get a little warmer. Until then i;ll be looking for better ways of making my SN look better and faster. :)
Saboteur
01-26-2005, 06:20 PM
<---Port Chester, NY
illrooster
01-27-2005, 09:27 PM
:D hello ; i just got two super nitros for my projects one is going to use .12 novarossi 5 ports turbo engine with two speeds , the other one is going to use a .21 engine single speed. the wolfpack mounts are already ordered . any ideas on how to get the max top speed???????? any info is very welcome.
thesecars are going to be used for parking lot drag racing only i dont do track racing. i have a frioend that has one that runs 92 mph. and anotherone that has an rs4-2 that goes 115 mph. those are my oponents. please help.
:)
ic0nn
01-29-2005, 10:16 AM
guys, honestly the fibre disc brake by HPI is fine. although my friend has claimed the GPM fibre to be superior, i like the HPI one more. please note though that i have two HPI fibre disc brakes and they are not the same. the newer ones look a lot more dense and nicely made.
the only thing that i may improve upon is the brake adaptor/brake bracelet on the HPI car. the stock one is plastic and that can deform or warp overtime. powerline and possibly GPM makes an aluminum one.
also another thing to think about for braking is not only the disc brakes. if your car has crap tires or old race tires that can impede on brake performance as well.
Redneck Basher
01-29-2005, 10:42 AM
In my experience braking is mostly influenced by working on the linkage and working with the servo/radio. It takes patience and is largely trial and error particularly if you are new to RC cars but it can be done and the brakes should work fine. I do use the metal brake discs on both my supers but that was largely because of clearance issues. (The metal discs seem to go together alot more easily.) (I can't remember the brand of discs, sorry.)
Has anyone ever tuned their supers to have a slight amount of brake applied when you let off the throttle?? (You need to have a pretty balanced car for this otherwise you'll spin out.) Some of my friends have played with this set up on more technical layouts. we call it "point and squirt". its different and sometimes fun. more often we just run a large oval and we hardly want or need brakes at all so we set it up for minimal resistance.
C0NTENDER
01-31-2005, 12:09 PM
Has anyone ever tuned their supers to have a slight amount of brake applied when you let off the throttle?? .
I have always used a slight amount of brakes on my supper when the throttle is released. I have better control over the car in the turns this way vs a free rolling car. But everyone's driving style is different.
H-Trainer
02-10-2005, 03:31 PM
I've heard rumours that there's a new Super Nitro coming. Something like a Super Nitro 18SS would be nice.
If we don't see it in Nürnberg tomorrow, it might take a bit longer, though... if there ever comes a successor.
Saboteur
02-10-2005, 05:44 PM
If thats case, they need to make more wheel/tire and body options. :) Also with upgrades on it, I'm sure some people will get back into it. Not me though. I'm stuck in nitro sedan ;).
blackgtx
02-12-2005, 12:02 PM
I had finally got the new super nitro together and broke in. I am going to paint the body and was wondering how low to cut the body posts so I can use it with the corvet body?
Thanks andy
blackgtx
02-13-2005, 11:59 AM
one more question deoes anyone have a wasp 18 in their car? if so do you like is it easy to tune and does it have a slide or rotary carb?
I heard EPIC18 is better and almost same price; I loved it, easy to tune, break-in etc. I used HPI slide carb for it.
Saboteur
02-13-2005, 06:02 PM
The OS engine overall is more powerful than both and easiest to tune. Very inexpensive too.
C0NTENDER
02-18-2005, 11:02 AM
I see that the HPI Challenge talk has started over in the rctech forums!!!!!!!!!
TEAMWOT
02-20-2005, 10:43 AM
I JUST GOT MY FIRST SNRS4.I GOT IT OFF EBAY.ITS A ROLLING CHASSIS
WITH A ONE SPEED TRANNY.I HAVE TO PUT MY MOTOR & TRANNY,AND ELECTRONICS ON IT.I HAVE A RS4 THAT IM USING AS A DONOR(ENGINE AND RADIO).AS OF LAST NIGHT,I PUT ON A OS .15 HYPER CV,AND THE 2-SPD WITH 13/44 & 16/41 GEARS,ALONG WITH A PURPLE ALUMINUM GEAR BRACE AND A CROSS DRILLED ROBINSON BRAKE ROTOR AND PADS.IM WAITING FOR MY RADIO TRAY TO COME IN AT LHS AND I WILL BE DRIVING AGAIN.I WILL HOPEFULLY BE ABLE TO POST SOME PICS IN A SHORT WHILE AFTER I GET IT UP AND RUNNING
<----------------.ANYONE IN MEMPHIS,TN. OR CLOSE WITH SUPER NITRO?
TEAMWOT
02-20-2005, 11:00 AM
:D hello ; i just got two super nitros for my projects one is going to use .12 novarossi 5 ports turbo engine with two speeds , the other one is going to use a .21 engine single speed. the wolfpack mounts are already ordered . any ideas on how to get the max top speed???????? any info is very welcome.
thesecars are going to be used for parking lot drag racing only i dont do track racing. i have a frioend that has one that runs 92 mph. and anotherone that has an rs4-2 that goes 115 mph. those are my oponents. please help.
:)
i think that is a little fast on the rs4.a snrs4 was clocked at like 101.7 m.p.h.,they started with a rs4 and then decided to go with a snrs4
TEAMWOT
02-20-2005, 11:03 AM
[QUOTE=Toyotatogo]Car specs:
.21 Nova Mega EV0-5 Michael Salvin Engine
9886 One Piece Tuned Pipe
Failsafe
Voltmeter
Ofna 125cc Fuel Tank and Upper Deck
HPI Threaded Shocks 4x
RJ RIDES 30's 4x
Second Gears 23/37 First Gear 19/41
20 Tooth Rear Pulley
Hitech Servos 2x
Cost: 1,200+
Top Speed 85 to 90mph+
Heres a small picture of my Super Nitro Just wanted to show it off!
Also heres a picture where I race it at!
one ? dude. Where did you get those gears? oh... how is the pick-up from a dead stop,i guess im asking-does it take a second or two before its pulling at its strongest?
Toyotatogo
03-04-2005, 03:02 AM
[QUOTE=TEAMWOT]
one ? dude. Where did you get those gears? oh... how is the pick-up from a dead stop,i guess im asking-does it take a second or two before its pulling at its strongest?
Hello ....... sorry for the delay send me a email next time I rarely check here ..... lol haha
Those gears came from a HPI RS4-3 Shaft Car the threaded pinions and clutch bell [two pieces] .......
The take-off is pretty much normal because it's a .21 engine and they have alot of grunt and once the transmission kicks in look out because she's on a roll ..... lol Fast, Fast and Faster ...... lol
I'm in the process of rebuilding her back up pretty soon for a competition comming this summer ......
Ironhorz
03-08-2005, 10:14 PM
I just got my SN from ebay and I must say that I really like it. I got rid of a Nitro Mini for it and I find that the two are very similar in many respects. My problem is I cannot get the car to turn very well. It just wants to spin out when I turn left or right. It's almost as if it turns 180 degree's instantly. Can you guys give me some setup tips to help prevent this... I am willing to try any suggestions you guys have. I would prefer to be able to run it for a bit with the stock suspension. I'm looking for a stable car through the turns ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Thanks in advance guys....
Try filling the front diff with thick silicone grease.
Ironhorz
03-10-2005, 01:32 PM
Try filling the front diff with thick silicone grease.
Thanks for the reply and advice...
I made a few minor adjustments and now I have a lot of understeer. I noticed the tires on the front looked slightly larger, maybe an 8th of an inch at the most, and had a rounder looking profile if you looked at them from the front. Anyways, I took the ones that were on the rear, they were very flat and square looking, and swapped them to the front and that cured my spinning problem. Now I have a small case of understeer that I need to fix. Any suggestions on that?? I have stiffened the rear susp. a bit more and added a degree, maybe a touch more, of toe out to the front. Suggestions are appreciated guys...
Thanks
Lagwagon
03-25-2005, 06:55 AM
I will be selling all my Super Nitro stuff including a Novarossi LS15PS2 engine on ebay that only had 2 and a half tanks through it...please check my ebay auctions if you are interested...
Saboteur
03-25-2005, 11:41 AM
Gotta link?
TEAMWOT
03-26-2005, 03:42 AM
Gotta link?
www.ebay.com/checkmyauctions
TEAMWOT
03-26-2005, 03:45 AM
www.ebay.com/checkmyauctions
!!!FAIR WARNING!!! HAHA,SABOTEUR,I GOT YOU,LMAO.
does this look familiar? page not found lol,just thought i would mess with you.
Saboteur
03-26-2005, 06:43 PM
I didn't even check it yet! :) LOL! :D
Lagwagon
03-28-2005, 11:43 AM
my username is jacovanderwalt on ebay....search via sellers...
Lagwagon
03-28-2005, 12:14 PM
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ200QQsassZjacovanderwalt
Lagwagon
03-30-2005, 09:33 AM
all gone...
TEAMWOT
04-05-2005, 11:02 PM
so i been running my .21 racer 2 with 15/46 21/37 gearing and it TEARS it up everywhere. i love it. i just drag race so i can (sorta heh. that real cars sounds nice too) kindaj ustidy spending so much on my racer 2. but now with the .21 it seems s0 worth it all. i have no doubt in my mind some .12 's can beat my car on the track and they might get me in topend with more rpm's and bigger tires but not in accel . EVER. no .12 or .15. or .18 is gonna match the off line jump of my hyper .21. i did the mod where you set the rear camber links to the top hole on the upright and man what a difference that made. its handles superb now. next problem. i dont have enough speed. would you please just explain the serpent gear thing better?
i did the mod where you set the rear camber links to the top hole on the upright and man what a difference that made. its handles superb now...
someone please let me know what this cat is talking about.my super is in desperate need of some kinda stability and handling.
C0NTENDER
06-20-2005, 09:43 AM
What's going on with this thread, where has all the interest with the super nitro gone?
Saboteur
06-20-2005, 12:09 PM
Gone way down man. These cars are dead :( Nitro sedans and 8th onroad took over drastically. :)
C0NTENDER
06-22-2005, 10:04 AM
Gone way down man. These cars are dead :( Nitro sedans and 8th onroad took over drastically. :)
Yeah, that I knew. I just thought that there were still many people out there that still loved their super enough to still talk about it. Heck, I can only race mine once a year now, but I still enjoy the car. Would never think about selling it. Oh well, I guess I need to decide what to do with these old bodies that I have yet to paint. Perhaps I can still get something for them :)
fl zoom
06-25-2005, 08:40 PM
Yeah, that I knew. I just thought that there were still many people out there that still loved their super enough to still talk about it. Heck, I can only race mine once a year now, but I still enjoy the car. Would never think about selling it. Oh well, I guess I need to decide what to do with these old bodies that I have yet to paint. Perhaps I can still get something for them :)
my super had been sitting on the shelf for the past two years. i recently brought it out w/ a new lamborgini bod, added running lights, brake lights and upgraded from an os 15 max to the new 18tz along with a new os pipe & manifold. there is no racing in my area, track closed a couple of years ago, property around here has gotten soooo darn pricey. still i find the super enjoyable, running it on a very large parking lot. the car has many many upgrades and the new engine is nothing short of awesome. i saw a review of the engine claiming 2.3 bhp. i hope i can keep it together. so not all interest is dead. i like the size. i am an old man and it helps.
Rookie Solara
06-27-2005, 01:10 PM
my super had been sitting on the shelf for the past two years. i recently brought it out w/ a new lamborgini bod, added running lights, brake lights and upgraded from an os 15 max to the new 18tz along with a new os pipe & manifold. there is no racing in my area, track closed a couple of years ago, property around here has gotten soooo darn pricey. still i find the super enjoyable, running it on a very large parking lot. the car has many many upgrades and the new engine is nothing short of awesome. i saw a review of the engine claiming 2.3 bhp. i hope i can keep it together. so not all interest is dead. i like the size. i am an old man and it helps.
I too want to drop my 18TZ on the Super Nitro and give it a rip.......however, it ripped all my gears on my NTC3, my Serpent 835 can barely handle the power of the 18TZ, I am not sure my 18TZ will have a chance to stay in my Super Nitro cause I don't really know where I can find replacement parts for this car..........nor I am willing to distroy my own car within 5 minutes, Oh, it is 18TZ, make it 4 minutes.....