HPI Super Nitro Rs4

[wlcohen]

What are your thoughts on this car. How easy is the kit to assemble?

Post some pics of your cars if you got em.

[Caddzilla]

I will let you know, I should have mine this weekend.

[PCC]

The kit is relatively easy to assemble and should pose no problems for most people.

The problem I have seen with this car is that the drivetrain has a limit of about a 1.25HP engine. Anything more and you are asking for trouble: The drivetrain will start to break things.

[HikariRacing2]

I have been running a Trinity/Picco 15 Rear Exhaust in my super for almost a year and a half and have had no drive line problems or broken any parts yet. Great car, wish more people in my area had them.

[Compaq888]

i had my super nitro from the end of 2001 and it is really hopped up, i have no problems with the car except if you have bad tires don't run the car, my super nitro was all over the track. Right now it's all hopped up except the engine and the drivetrain, my transmission broke cause i had it from all the way in 99', if you get a super nitro get the HD transmission, i fixed all the steering problems so i wouldn't have any problems on the track. Right now i'm in the process of building a bulletproof drivetrain with a HD transmission and some aluminum parts for drivetrain and a really powerful .15 engine.

[HARLEY6969]

I have a question. I have a ob4 with 2 speed tranny and a os .21rgx. I want to run the wider,taller tiresof the super nitro and want to know if they use the standard hex size. Thanks.Please e-mailme at harley6969@earthlink.net cause I am new to this board and not real sure howto check back. Thanks again

[Kev6785]

12mm

[RcLaB1]

hello, am getting a super nitro next week

along with with some chassis strengthening up grades.....

can some of you give me some idea of what is great for the superRS4, particularly
big block .15 motors.....also, i want to buy a one piece
header and pipe, i'm confuse whether the the .12 one
piece pipes are the same with the .15 bigBlocks....or should
i buy a 1/8 one piece header pipe?????????

do you guys recommend a chassis upgrade for a .15 motor big block ? because i'm already ordering the Y -braces and
the side gear brace........

and also, some gearing combonation for for fast acceleration
and the highest gearing possible for all out speed.....

thank you

[theiss2200]

i have a super nitro and an RB engine in it it runs great i put a 2 speed on it and i stripped a couple of teath out of it i also upgraded the whole car with graphite and alluminum all but the steering arms and the main chasis so i htink the car is great the one problem i had with the kit was the stock engine wasn't that powerfull for it so i put it in my racer 2 and took the RB out of that
so I give you 2 thumbs up on this car
it is great

[JohnLeMVP]

Its a really easy kit to build. Takes about 1-2 days depending on how anxious you are to drive it.
Heres my car.

[JohnLeMVP]

oops heres teh pic

[TitansGT4]

thas badass, i was thinkin bout buyin one of these. I like them because they're so realistic, but i have to buy the RTR, to impatient to order the kit when my LHS doesn't have one:p

[Mika]

Originally posted by JohnLeMVP
Its a really easy kit to build. Takes about 1-2 days depending on how anxious you are to drive it.
Heres my car.

Hey, how do you like the CVEC pipe (isn't that a CVEC) ? Some say it's sound is great but otherwise not that great in performance sense.

The car looks good!

[C0NTENDER]

Here is one of my supers.http://www.uuworld.net/~reub/super.jpg

[Mika]

Oh, man, that's a car!
Is it Wolfpack Radicals that you are using ??

[RandyT]

This is a Wolf Pack Radical :D

[C0NTENDER]

No, it's not wolfpack, it's mostly powerline. RandyT has the one by wolfpack. Here is my other super, also by wolfpack.

http://www.uuworld.net/~reub/view.jpg The powerline is one I might be getting rid of soon.

[fezzy]

Hi, I am thinking of buying a new SNRS4, Selling the FE and making it into a 'Project', thinking along the lines of a 2-Speed, RB X15 Turbo Big Block, Aluminium Upper Deck, Aluminium Y-Brace, some better shocks, Aluminium Steering and possibly a thicker chassis.

What do u think?

[fezzy]

I just had a look for the Wolfpack .21 Conversion, is it true that all you need is the flywhee/clutch and engine mounts and it'l bolt onto a standard chassis? Obviously it will be like crap with so much power on the standard flimsey chassis but with ally upper deck, y brace etc etc??

Is this true? $60 for a .21 SNRS4 + Engine?! If yes you have my attension!!!!.

What about the transmission and diffs, can they take the power of a .21 and what about 2-Speed?.

Is anyone on MSN who i can have a chat with?
my MSN is ashtuk@hotmail.com OR BigAsh2k is my AIM Name

[fastharry]

how is that centered wolfpack conversion?......I'm taking apart 2 racer2's......and a have a super already..(HPI Challenge 2002 NY....4th A main,2001 Englishtown B main winner)....

thinking about that wolfpack car..something to do with all my worthless HPI parts.....

[RandyT]

Here's a picture of the other side of the Super Nitro Conversion.

If you purchase the Wolf Pack Radical Super Nitro Conversion, it comes with Flywheel and Motor Mounts for a .21 Conversion. This shows you everything that comes with it. http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/SUPER%20ALL%20PARTS.htm. I believe I paid $290 for it. If you want a Two Speed, it will have to be the Heavy Duty one and at least the HPI Racing Clutch. A $60 .21~? I don't know about that but I put in the Ofna Hyper .21 8 Port and it was a $120. With this much power it does take its toll on parts and especially tires.

I can only speak for myself but my purchase of the Wolf Pack Radical Super Nitro Conversion has to be on of my most satisfying purchases I have made in along time. The only thing that exceeds the quality and craftsmanship of his work, is Wolfgang's customer service. This gentleman takes such great pride in his work and went out of his way to make sure that all my questions were answered. His customer service is what all manufacturers should strive to be.

[fastharry]

thanks for that...any particular problems I should be aware of?....also,do you thing a BB 15 would be better tha a 21...(i'm thinking the slight weight diference,maybe a little better on parts..

[RandyT]

A hobby shop guy has a .21 in his super nitro and we were talking about that. He thinks it would be probably easier on the wear and tear and just overall running. I guess it depends on where your going to run it. The HPI Super Nitro Forum is really good because alot of these guys are running .21's in their Super Nitro's they would know better than I, since this is new to me. The biggest problem to worry about that I've found is tire wear. If you make the conversion don't use a soft foam rear tires. I went through the Cross rear foam tires in nothing flat. The hobby shop guy said he would split the HPI tires down the middle after a couple of runs. But then again both he and I are just mostly dragging it flat out in a parking lot.

[fezzy]

What does the conversion include for $259? Link isn't working...

I thought that all you needed was engine mounts and flywheel for $60 and it bolts onto the stock chassis, OBVIOUSLY there will be other things to get.. engine for one, i was thinkin of a 8-Port Hyper21 as i've already for a 4-Port and thats been quite a nice runner, not to mention the fact that i'l need chassis parts to stiffen it up, thicker chassis, y-brace, upper deck but wouldn't that be it?!

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by fastharry
how is that centered wolfpack conversion?......I'm taking apart 2 racer2's......and a have a super already..(HPI Challenge 2002 NY....4th A main,2001 Englishtown B main winner)....

thinking about that wolfpack car..something to do with all my worthless HPI parts.....

fastharry, since I have more than one super, I was able to compare both the wolfpack and my other one on the track. I think the belts that you use on the wolfpack make it a little faster, but it will take more time to set up on the track. I still use my reg super when I'm racing b/c I just have not had enough time to set up the wolfpack, so that's just my project car for now. While the purple alum one is the one that you will see in the for sale forum pretty soon. (I was also at the 2002 NY challenge and Englishtown as well)

[fastharry]

so which one do you like better...is the wolfpack car worth doing?....or should I just biuld another Super with HPI parts...also,how do you like the 300 mm wheelbase...my current car is a BMW...dying to build a toyata GT...

[RandyT]

Fezzy:

Go to www.wolfpackradicals.com and look under Super HPI, then Super Parts. It includes the chassis, top plate, mounts, flywheel, etc.. You will need to purchase an additional mid block and I believe a different belt for the side belt. I would suggest getting a better Y-brace also.

I had alot of trouble with my 8 Port, but its finally running now. I'm sure after it breaks in alittle longer and I tweak the tuning it will be fine. The motor has alot of pull. I'm running 13/20 and 44/37 and it has no problem handling these gears.

Randy

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by fastharry
so which one do you like better...is the wolfpack car worth doing?....or should I just biuld another Super with HPI parts...also,how do you like the 300 mm wheelbase...my current car is a BMW...dying to build a toyata GT...


Well I can't say yet, I'm more familar with my reg super with the way it handles and my current set up is also with the bmw body b/c I'm normally running on tight tracks. So could could be why I had a hard time with the wolfpack using 300mm on the same track. I'll do more testing at the beginning of next season. Is it worth it, well if you already have one super, and you just want to build something out of spare parts and you have the money and don't mind spending the money on a project car, it's worth it. Myself, I have debated saling mine time and time again, only b/c I'm not sure if I have a real need for two supers, but I will address that concerns after I get rid of the purple alum one first. If I keep it, it will probably only be used for drag racing, but if I can get it to handle like the super that I race with, then I will probable use it for racing except for the hpi challenge.

[JohnLeMVP]

Heres more recent pix of my Super. I added a WP bigblock conversion and a JP mod TX15 engine. Im running 17/20 gearing aswell. The car has a lot of low end but I needs to be tuned a lot. I only ran it a few time and haven't been able to tune the engine correctly. :( I am actually thinking of saling it cuz I really don't have much time to play with it any more.

http://www.maximumgeek.net/images/temp/rc.jpg

http://www.maximumgeek.net/images/temp/rc2.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

OK, I am new for the HPI Super Nitro but definitely not new for Nitro racing (Serpent Impulse, Impact and currently NTC3)....however, this HPI super nitro does give me quite a lot of problem, but I am sure you guys can help....

I have a brand new Nova Rossi RS-12 T5 planning to drop onto the Super Nitro, and my Super Nitro came with the HPI 2-speed gear box already.....my quesiton is, how can I install SG cranck engine (like any Nova Rossi engine RS-12, MT-12, MR-12....etc) onto the SNRS4 that works with the HPI 2-speed...?

From the post above, I saw him got his JP installed on the SN....what kind of a flywheel and 2-speed clutch that he is using..? Or can anyone tell me what and how to get that works...?

Someone from the LHS told me I have to use the HPI clutch and machine the hole (larger) and re-taper the end to make that work....but is there any aftermarket flywheel that I can use..?

Thanks for advance....

Rookie Solara

[JohnLeMVP]

Yeah the SG shaft was a problem for me, but Wolfgang gave me some good knowledge I'll pass on.

1) Flywheel: I use is a wolfpack radicials, but you can use others.

2) Length: You need an ofna clutch nut kit to make the sg shaft long enough. It cost less then $10 and can be found at towerhobbies or your LHS.

3) Clutch: I had the HPI Racing clutch but it wouldn't fit around the clutch nut kit. I dremeled it to make the hole bigger, but decided against modifying the clutch. So i just bought a Ofna 3 shoe clutch and used 2 of the shoes. A mugen clutch will work too.

Hope that helped!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by JohnLeMVP
Yeah the SG shaft was a problem for me, but Wolfgang gave me some good knowledge I'll pass on.

1) Flywheel: I use is a wolfpack radicials, but you can use others.

2) Length: You need an ofna clutch nut kit to make the sg shaft long enough. It cost less then $10 and can be found at towerhobbies or your LHS.

3) Clutch: I had the HPI Racing clutch but it wouldn't fit around the clutch nut kit. I dremeled it to make the hole bigger, but decided against modifying the clutch. So i just bought a Ofna 3 shoe clutch and used 2 of the shoes. A mugen clutch will work too.

Hope that helped!

Thanks....yeah, my LHS also susgested me to use the Wolfpack .15-.21 conversion kits, it came with a purple flywheel and adjustable engine mount (I think you are using that too)....costed like $65.00, is that the kits that you are talking about...? The reason I am not getting that is because that flywheel is so small and it doesn't have the OFFSET(standoff) like the HPI flywheel does.....in that way, I really don't know how's that work with .12 engine (since .15 and .21 are bigger and longer, that might work)....

Can you tell me the wolfpack flywheel parts #...?

I do have a MIP clutch and HPI clutch housing, do you thing that will work...?

One more thing, can anyone post some closeup pictures of the 2-speed gear box area so I can take a look...? I know I am asked a lot, but someone might took some pictures like that before...

Thanks again.....

[JohnLeMVP]

I have a Tx15 which is a big block motor so the wolfpack parts work fine.

Your engine is small block so just get a regular flywheel.

The only thing you need for the SG shaft is an ofna clutch nut kit and maybe a clutch.

[Rookie Solara]

But the problem is exactly the flywheel, HPI flywheel won't work unless I have to custom make one....the hole is not big enough to pass thru the thread and the tapered end is too big for the Nova Rossi golden nut......

Any other option....?

[RandyT]

Is that .12 with a SG shaft going to work~? When I was looking for a new motor we placed a Sirio .12 on the car and the SG shaft was really short and even with the Ofna Kit the clutch bell wouldn't reach the two speed.

I think there was a thread on the HPI Super Nitro Forum on how it could be done, but you will have to wait till the site is back up.

Good luck

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by RandyT
Is that .12 with a SG shaft going to work~? When I was looking for a new motor we placed a Sirio .12 on the car and the SG shaft was really short and even with the Ofna Kit the clutch bell wouldn't reach the two speed.

I think there was a thread on the HPI Super Nitro Forum on how it could be done, but you will have to wait till the site is back up.

Good luck

Yeah, I know the exact problem, the SG crank is still too short to reach the 2-speed.......any other idea?

[JohnLeMVP]

Originally posted by RandyT
Is that .12 with a SG shaft going to work~? When I was looking for a new motor we placed a Sirio .12 on the car and the SG shaft was really short and even with the Ofna Kit the clutch bell wouldn't reach the two speed.

I think there was a thread on the HPI Super Nitro Forum on how it could be done, but you will have to wait till the site is back up.

Good luck

The site isn't going back up

[RandyT]

Really they aren't going to bring back the forum on HPI~? Bummer
In regards to the SG Crank sorry can't help you there, I think your just going to have to purchase .12 with a standard crank, or go for a BB15 or .21.

[Rookie Solara]

HPI forum will be back, but it will not be FORUM afterall, more likely those YOU ASK, THEY ANSWER kinda style.......which is another BIG MISTAKE....oh, on top of that, only HPI related only, no more Serpent, NTC3, Reflex whatsoever.....Big Big mistake.

Anyhow, believe it or not, I emailed Wolfpack and see what is they thought about .12 SG engine on Super Nitro......they emailed back to me today with a 6 paragraphs message :eek: and even offered me a FREE kits to me, the take is I have to give them a detail reports no matter it works or not.....why it work, and why not.......

I think I have nothing to lose here..........as much as I HATE to sell my brand new Nova Rossi RS-12 T5 (hard to find now).......and I will try my best to get that sucker installed on the Super Nitro.:D

[JohnLeMVP]

Yeah wolfgang is a good guy. If anything goes wrong with one of his products, he'll usually replace them if you tell him what went wrong and why.

[Rookie Solara]

That is the attitude for a sucessfull business.......ppl like Wolfgang should receive all the respect from all the RC racer.....

[Browny]

I'm impressed with this wolfpack conversion kit. I live in Australia and RC can be pretty expensive. Can anyone tell me how much a Super RS4 sells for in the US? (in $US).

Also I've look at the wolfpack web site but there isn't alot of info there. Do you buy his products thru hobby shops or from him direct?

Do you guys race competively? Is there a class that accomodates these larger cars?

Finally, (please don't hate me), with the .21 engines what sort of speeds are you reaching?

Some great pics on this site too:D Thanks in advance.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Browny
I'm impressed with this wolfpack conversion kit. I live in Australia and RC can be pretty expensive. Can anyone tell me how much a Super RS4 sells for in the US? (in $US).

Also I've look at the wolfpack web site but there isn't alot of info there. Do you buy his products thru hobby shops or from him direct?

Do you guys race competively? Is there a class that accomodates these larger cars?

Finally, (please don't hate me), with the .21 engines what sort of speeds are you reaching?

Some great pics on this site too:D Thanks in advance.

Super Nitro should be like $250 US with the POS engine.....

Wolfpack products can be purchased via...

http://www.brucknerhobbies.com/

Or you can contact Mr. Wolfgang himself, super super NICE owner/Tech guy to deal with.............wish he can do more alum. stuff for more car (like NTC3)

To be honest, in Asia (closer to you from Australia) Super 10 and Super Nitro are 100% GONE.......no one race there, in USA, beside HPI challenge, ppl usually race Super Nitro just for fun.....but here in Chicago, we do have enough Super Nitro to form a class, so we are a few that still have Super Nitro class racing along with those typicla "TOURING CARS".........

Engine limits to .12 and .15 engine, turbo or non-turbo, don't matter, no modification limits, no GAS-TANK limit cause we all using 125cc Kyosho buggy tank........to tires limit - foams are $32 a set of 4, last like a season long.....so no one using rubber anymore......basicly - NO LIMIT, and the best part is, we will MIX with Serpent IMPACT class and race together.......and don't let the Super Nitro fool you, IMPACT has no advantage over Super Nitro beside the big block .15 engine....at one point, I too own a IMPACT and raced with the Chicago HPI challenge Super Nitro champion.....and I learned my lesson well. So if you don't have enough Super Nitro, let the IMPACT ppl race with you or join the IMPACT ppl.........if your Super Nitro tunned well enough (and with a good enough engine like MR-12, RB, JP....etc) those IMPACT are not even that fast afterall....(if you recall the recent national races, most TC ran more laps then IMPACT and 1/8th class).

Last.....with 21 TURBO JP engine, one time I saw the POLICE speed gun clocked 80 mph, and I am sure some others can do even more......

[Browny]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I haven't seen any Super nitros racing in OZ. I would love to see them do so as I would like a bigger scale car. Somewhere between the 1/10 and 1/5 scale. Ah well I'll stick with the 1/10 for now.

All the best with your cars.:D

[Rookie Solara]

OK......with the strong support from Mr. Wolfgang (owner of Wolfpack Radical).....the small block .12 SG crank engine conversion is a complete success, and here are some instruction (save this file Robert Carlin)

This picture showing the SG crank engine problem, engine sitting too far apart from the 2-speed spur gears and the SG crank is not long enough for the bell to reach the spur gears. I used 10 OFNA washer, Assoicate Pull-start flywheel, Serpent clutch nut and shoes, and HPI gear bell. 2nd picture......I pushed the engine toward the spur gears direction......it reach the spurs, but the engine mount doesn't align with the HPI chassis engine holes underneath, adjustable engine mount required.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003352.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003354.JPG

With Mr. Wolfgang's support, these are the parts that I need to do the conversion. Vented flywheel with special cullet, adjustable engine mounts (6 position with free sliding adjustment base)......the 2-speed gearbox clutch is something he strongly recommand me to change over the HPI single blade design.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003360.JPG

Wolfpack radical package installed........along with the OFNA crank extension kits ($7.00), I installed 2 OFNA washers before I mounted the collet to gain some extra length of the crank. From this picture, you can see I aligned the engine mounting holes with the HPI OEM opening underneath, and still, the gears are still SHORT from reaching the spur gears....next, adjustable engine mount.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003361.JPG

Adjustable engine mount installed.......now, I can slide the engine by 4mm and still have a complete lock tight situatin of the engine....and the most important part is - I have the distance in able to reach the spurs with the gear bell......operation completed.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003363.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003364.JPG

The Wolfpack Radical 2 shoes 2-speed clutch installed (they are Associated parts) but somehow Wolfgang can get that work on HPI.......go figure.

If you have question, please let me know........because I am an expert on HPI now (yes......Wolfgang asked me several times why I downgrade myself from Serpent to HPI........? I think this is the fun part about downgrading - CHALLENGE)

[BlueMaxx]

What would you guys recommend for a new nitro owner's first hop-up engine? I don't want to spend much more than $150, and I don't need a pullstarter. Also, what's a good header/exhaust to use? (My SRS4 is mostly stock).

[Mika]

I don't know really about HPI engines, so I cannot say if these can be considered as hop-ups, but one good, quite powerful and realiable (=easy) engine is the O.S. 15 CV-Hyper http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPV46&P=7. For more power although not so easy one is the O.S. 15 CV-R http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALL4&P=7 for around $150. There's many shaft options though, so be careful to choose the right one for your car. I've used the CV Hyper for my Kyosho SuperTen along with Kyosho special tuned pipe and it's fast enough for me. For the coming summer I've got the 15 RX http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ31&P=7 $159 which could be an option to you as well, but it may require more other parts to be installed on HPI (it comes only with the SG shaft).

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by BlueMaxx
What would you guys recommend for a new nitro owner's first hop-up engine? I don't want to spend much more than $150, and I don't need a pullstarter. Also, what's a good header/exhaust to use? (My SRS4 is mostly stock).

I have 2 engines for you (both less then $100)......since you don't need anything powerfull untill you are in control on your SNRS4.

OS .12 CVR, this engine was on my NTC3, took 1st place all the time and only raced 3 times, 95% new, professionally broken in, and compression is like 95% life left......$80. because it is OS, after the first dialed in, you should not need to touch those needle again......

Another one is BRAND NEW, never use, HPI .12 SS (Black) engine, slide carb, standard shaft........$90

Both engine have similar HP and performance....let me know.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Mika
$159 which could be an option to you as well, but it may require more other parts to be installed on HPI (it comes only with the SG shaft).

Think TWICE before you headed down to SG crank engine, HPI required more then a WORLD to convert the SG crank engine onto any HPI cars.

If you want to know more, see my post above.........it will costs you.

[BlueMaxx]

Would using an HPI .12SC make any sense as far as performance/replacement parts go? Sleeve and piston sets are cheaper than for any other engine I've seen, plus it's rated to just over 1hp. Would this be a good match for my SN?

And one more thing... I keep hearing about guys using Kyosho Inferno 7.5 tanks on their SN's. Is this a pretty much direct fit, or does it require some modification?

[HKS]

Can somone tell me what the part number for the lowered front shock mount is?

[RCCarFreak]

Here's a pic of mine and the specs. Won three trophies with it last season. :D I also run a NTC3 so the Super feels like a tank, but it's been a great car and a blast to race!!

HPI #A935 Graphite Rear Brace Set
HPI #73003 Graphite Rear Shock Tower
HPI #1906 Nitro Star Pro 12R SC Evolution II Non-PS Slide Carb
HPI #A869 Slide Carb Linkage Set
HPI #A970 Tuned Pipe and Header
HPI #A907 Aluminum Gear Brace Set
HPI #A885 Nitro Racing Clutch
HPI #72170 Threaded Aluminum Shock Set
HPI #Z679 Aluminum Purple Wheel Nuts
HPI #B020 5x8x2.5mm Ball Bearing Set (X2 - used in steering bellcranks)
HPI #A911 2-Speed Transmission (12/46, 15/43)
HPI #72215 Gear Diff Adjustment Spring Set (Front-Gold, Rear-Black)
HPI #A926 Non-Pullstart Lightweight Flywheel 32mm
HPI #A732 Urethane Rear Belt S3M 180 (60T) 5.5mm
HPI #9074 Receiver Protector Small (Purple)
HPI #72016 Stainless Steel Hinge Pin Set
HPI #A521 Universal Dogbones (front)
HPI #A522 Universal Dogbones (rear)
GPM #SN4014V Aluminum Upper Deck For Large Tank
OFNA 30280 125cc Large Fuel Tank
POWERLINE #2009 Aluminum Steering Bellcranks
RRP #1538 18T Aluminum Pulleys (X2)
RRP #1535 Aluminum Gear Adapter 44T (if running single speed)
ORION 1100mah Receiver Pack
CROSS #HS-52GP Front Arm Support
CVEC #SD5 Silicone Pipe Deflectors
Various Trinity and Associated Shock Oils
Various HPI 25mm and 27mm Springs
Purple Anodized Aluminum Motor Mounts
JR RIDE Tires (Various Compounds)
HPI Tires (Various Compounds)
Airtronics 94757 Digital Servo (Steering)
Motor Saver Air Filter
O.S. #8 Glow Plug
HPI #73004 Graphite Upper Deck (Backup)
HPI #72525 Racing Fuel Tank 75cc (Backup)

[BlueMaxx]

Is there any 125cc tank that will fit in the stock or graphite upper deck?

[ntn324]

...

[BlueMaxx]

What would you consider to be the most important parts to add to beef up the drivetrain? I'm thinking universals and an aluminum gear brace, but is there anything else that's a necessity?

Also... Does anyone know if altering a graphite upper deck to fit a larger gas tank is possible? I was thinking about using a cutter on my Dremel and smoothing it with a sanding wheel, but would that splinter the graphite? Could I just cover the cut edge with epoxy to keep it from coming apart?

[BlueMaxx]

Speaking of Dremel cutting, would shortening a CVEC pipe's somewhat excessively long stingers adversely affect the pipe's performance?

[Rookie Solara]

Be honest, HPI is not a very good car to drop thousand of dollars to upgrade, because, it will never reach the standard like NTC3, Serpent and other big boys........but the good side is, the STOCK HPI is quite a great car to drive and RACE........Stock, or close to stock....

Friend of mine won the HPI challenge in Chicago in Super Nitro class with a 98% stock parts SNRS4....and he took 2nd from the previous races at Florida and Ohio......so it is NOT the car, it is the driver and setup (the stock SNRS4 is just as great).

Here is mine......90% stock, only the side alum. brace (I lose the plastic one), bigger tank (the one from Inferno 7.5) Serpent adjustable shocks (from my old Impulse PRO), and carbon Y-brace (came with the car)......I am using a MT-12 SG crank engine with Wolfpack 2-speed housing along with Team Assoicate clutch shoes and I will run with the RS-12 T5 next season.......hope I can hang with my friends' SNRS4.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003417.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003418.JPG

I don't like the way HPI did on the throttle linkage, this is what I did and it works much better, faster and more direct.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003419.JPG

This is the Inferno 7.5 tank, I have to enlarge the opening on the HPI plastic upper deck at the FRONT to able to mount this tank, but I am still using the REAR hole (original) to mount this tank, work perfectly........if you have a carbon upper deck, you better use the plastic one instead and keep the carbon one for the 75cc tank or HPI challenge.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003424.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003425.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003426.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/P0003427.JPG

[RcLaB1]

hello SNRS4 thread.....

is there anyone willing to sell there
SNRS4 w/wolfpack super conversion?
if its for Sale........email me at

RCLAB1@msn.com


thanks

p.s. sweet rides on this SNRS4 forum

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by BlueMaxx
Is there any 125cc tank that will fit in the stock or graphite upper deck?

No modifications are needed for the aluminum upperdeck and the Ofna tank I listed above. The 125cc tank fits perfectly into the upper deck as is.

A 125cc tank will not fit the stock or graphite HPI upper decks without cutting or other mods.

[Toyotatogo]

Car specs:

.21 Nova Mega EV0-5 Michael Salvin Engine
9886 One Piece Tuned Pipe
Failsafe
Voltmeter
Ofna 125cc Fuel Tank and Upper Deck
HPI Threaded Shocks 4x
RJ RIDES 30's 4x
Second Gears 23/37 First Gear 19/41
20 Tooth Rear Pulley
Hitech Servos 2x

Cost: 1,200+

Top Speed 85 to 90mph+

Heres a small picture of my Super Nitro Just wanted to show it off!
Also heres a picture where I race it at!

[RCCarFreak]

What's the best toe gauge to use for the Super Nitro. I'm planning to get the Integy aluminum setup kit and a Hudy 1/8 scale board, but it looks like the toe gauge on the Integy setup won't go wide enough for the Super Nitro. You can see what I mean looking at it in the pics posted here:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35782&perpage=25&pagenumber=74

Anyone use the Integy and can confirm that it won't work? If so, what's the other alternatives? The only other thing I know of is this cheezy RPM one:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEU91&P=7

Thanks in advance!

[Rookie Solara]

The Integy one will work on both car just fine....I have NTC3 and SNRS4 as well.....I think I did use the Integy to setup my SNRS4, but I will redo that just for you and I will post some pictures tonight so you can understand the Integy without worrying....and I will show you the wheel nut issue on the SNRS4.

BTW, nice body........

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The Integy one will work on both car just fine....I have NTC3 and SNRS4 as well.....I think I did use the Integy to setup my SNRS4, but I will redo that just for you and I will post some pictures tonight so you can understand the Integy without worrying....and I will show you the wheel nut issue on the SNRS4.

BTW, nice body........

You rock Rookie! I look forward to the pics. :)

[Rookie Solara]

Here are some of the pictures of the Integy/Hudy on my SNRS4, the advantage of Integy (over Hudy) is the aluminum finishes, those numbers are easy to read (compare to the clear plastic), and the wheel lock, it works on STANDARD thread (like NTC3) and Metric (like Kyosho, Serpent, Mugen and Yokomo) BOTH, I don't know how they do it but I am glad that I choose Integy over Hudy (I believed it is like $30 cheaper)

The rest of the pictures are all here.........

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/setup/

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/setup/P0003536.JPG

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Here are some of the pictures of the Integy/Hudy on my SNRS4, the advantage of Integy (over Hudy) is the aluminum finishes, those numbers are easy to read (compare to the clear plastic), and the wheel lock, it works on STANDARD thread (like NTC3) and Metric (like Kyosho, Serpent, Mugen and Yokomo) BOTH, I don't know how they do it but I am glad that I choose Integy over Hudy (I believed it is like $30 cheaper)

The rest of the pictures are all here.........

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/setup/


Thanks for the pics and the info! I ordered the Integy Setup Station with the carry case, and the big 1/8th scale Hudy board and decal so I'm all set. :cool:

[Rookie Solara]

When you use your Integy, especially the wheel lock nut, make sure to add a spacer piece after the Camber guage, because the thread is too long for the nut, you need to offset some of the thread so the lock nut can be lock tight.

see here......

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/setup/P0003537.JPG

You see, I added another purple wheel hex nut after the plate, then screw in the lock nut, SNRS4 is a lot longer then regular TC, for the rest of the TC, you don't need to add that.

[show2ime]

How do u like the evo5 ms? I just ordered one fpr my super and was wondering how it performs. I got the Rb 086 1 piece pipe too.

[Toyotatogo]

Hey The Motor is Insane in power very fast! I was able to beat a Collari C5 Rody Modified Engine in a drag race!

I'm very happy with the engine but am sad at the same time becuase when it comes time to rebuild It will cost $194 for a piston/sleeve and another $50 bucks for a conrod! So I barely run it. But it's a real crowd pleaser!

9886 In-Line Pipe is a great setup for thoes long distance races at huge parking lots!

You will have to buy RJ Ride Tires in order to run. HPI tires are way to cheap and can't handle such speeds and power that the motor puts out. (Be Advised)!

[show2ime]

I have the serpent wheel adapters from wolfpack radicals so I will be using those wide boys in the back and the standard serpents in fron twhen I race. What gears do you run? I have a centax on the way as well....do the stock dogbones hold up or do u have the hpi universals?? I normally run a ntc3 so i am totally new to a .21 and hpi gear ratios. Thx man.

[show2ime]

I just read your info again..saw the gearing. The 19th 1st gear is good off the line??? Seems a little tall for 1st gear,.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
I'm very happy with the engine but am sad at the same time becuase when it comes time to rebuild It will cost $194 for a piston/sleeve and another $50 bucks for a conrod! So I barely run it. But it's a real crowd pleaser!


When the time you think you need new piston/sleeve, try spending $25 first.......this $25 might get your old Piston/Sleeve back to the original form or even better......I just got my MT-12 P/S back, the compression is completely back and I can't wait to SUMMER and see how my 3.5 years old MT-12 react with only $25 invested.

Read this thread....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95559

This guy is called JOHN, and his user name is OSRocket, email him for all of your quesiton since your engine is one of those HIGH end kind....but he did plenty of those JP and Coralli engine....
I am sure he might be able to save you $150 plus and there are more then 20 ppl in this forum used his service and so far NO COMPLAINT.

Show2ime - 19T is very tall for 1st gear, but to get to the 85-90 mph range, that sounds reasonable. When I was using my Serpent Centax, I ran 16/19T on the Centax.

[show2ime]

what 2nd gears did u use? Also, when u used the serpent centax, the flywheel allowed you to use a starter box w/out any clearance problems??? IS the serpent centax the same for the 8th and 10th scale cars?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by show2ime
what 2nd gears did u use? Also, when u used the serpent centax, the flywheel allowed you to use a starter box w/out any clearance problems??? IS the serpent centax the same for the 8th and 10th scale cars?

No, I didn't use the Serpent CENTAX onto the SNRS4, I was referring the centax on my Impulse and Impact back then....but I think there is a chance the Centax will work on SNRS4 as well, but my concern is the ENGINE MOUNT position, I still think you need to use the Wolfpack adjustable engine mount and shift the engine toward the spurs direction a little bit in order to reach to the spur, and yes, Centax only works with SG crank engine, you cannot use standard crank shaft onto the Centax and Centax standard gear is 16/19 and the smallest is 15T.

Are you referring the 2nd SPUR GEAR from the HPI..? I think they are the stock one from the 2-speed, I have to go home and check.
My car is nothing special and definitely NOT going for speed, in our local track....low gear and major PUNCH power is the key....have you guys ever seen SNRS4 with RS-12 Turbo "outrun" MS version Nova Rossi SX series's Veteq and IMPACT.........? Those Impact and 1/8 veteq cannot even TOUCH us......

But it is because the track is not big enough for those big boys to stretch their legs.......not saying SNRS4 are the best, but just better then those 1/8 here.

[show2ime]

I have the wolfpack adj. mounts for the .21 bb conversion on my car. I was wondering because I am going to get a centax and was trying to figure which one would have a large enough flywheel to give me enough clearance to start it with my box. I have an MS nova evo5 in my super now. Just came this am. I can't wait to see hpw it runs. We drag race here so I won't have a problem with getting outrun by a .12 turbo :). I got another ntc3 and may put that motor in my car. Or either the sirio outlaw. My other NTC3 screamed with the roar legal sirio. For the money, I love them. Question: who sells a solid rear diff for a super?? I wantthe positive traction.....

[Rookie Solara]

Above the centax, sorry, I cannot tell you unless someone can borrow me a centax again, I am afraid the wofpack motor mount is alittle taller then the SERPENT mount, and that will lift the engine by a little then the CENTAX flywheel will be more far away from the starter box, that's my concern.

But honestly, .12 with centax is NOT really that much better (no matter on Serpent Impulse or on NTC3)......if you are running some HUGH track with a lot of high speed, CENTAX is the one, the down side is.....CENTAX does lost the PUNCH on launching, you have to rev the engine to high RPM and be able to LAUNCH, and to get a good launch, you have to practice a lot, and for a tight small track, Centax is a DISADVANTAGE. (in my opinion)

About the solid rear....you must run that with front 1-way (That is a MUST or you will regrat what you did)......again, IMPACT setting (rear solid and front 1-way) is ideal for large track (like 1/8th scale track)...on regular local race, that is a waste again.

[Toyotatogo]

GEEZ!:mad: Does anyboy know whre I can buy these at?? Buy HPI doesn't have them in stock ever!

I looked everywhere ! I want to buy these for my Super.

[PCC]

Those are only available directly from HPI's website.

[Toyotatogo]

JP Modified .21 "Kangaroo", On-Road Engine. I plan to retire my Nova Mega EVO-5 and buy one of these. Does anyboy have any spec on this engine also where can I buy one at. I heard it is way faster than the Nova Mega EV0-5 MS Engine thought but that is about it.

Go the the link below and check out the engine for yourself!


http://www.nitrohouse.com/images/JP_Motors/JP60073.jpg

[Toyotatogo]

:eek: I ain't PAYING $599.99 for that engine. I'll just re-enlist my Nova Mega bad enough I spent $419.99 for that one already! maybe I can put the JP Piston and Sleeve in my Nova Mega Engine !

OOPS! That's my secret! ;)

Link below JP Motor $599.99

http://www.atomichobbies.com

[Rookie Solara]

I really cannot see a $500 engine will make your car THAT MUCH faster.........a better setting car with a OK engine will give you all the victory.

My opinion is......don't go crazy on those JP thing, they are way bigger from their name then the product itself...and so far, I never seen any JP powered RC car win anything......not except Drag racing or parking lot bashing......

BTW, I think my LHS still has those HPT alum wheel nut....interested?

[Toyotatogo]

Rookie Solara yeah how much are they?

[Rookie Solara]

I will find out this weekend.......apparently they collected a lot of HPI junk and sell them in HIGH price.......like SNRS4 universal for $40 a pair........worst then Serpent.

[Kenny123]

I have a .21 HYPER 8-PORT engine in my HPI SUPER NITRO.
I need some help, when the car rehashes fuel speed the tires come off the rims. The rims are glued onto the rims and they still come off. Does any one know where I can buy better tires and rims?

[Toyotatogo]

Go to this website for the (Kyosho Slick Tire Rear Hard)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
&I=LXV544&P=7

Go to this website for the (Kyosho Slick Tire Front Hard)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV543&P=7

I have never used KYOSHO Tires but have heard good things They may be stronger than RJ Rides but I have no idea.


Or if you don't want any Kyosho Tires Go to the website below

http://www.redmondhobbies.com/ridtir20nar.html

These are called (RJ Ride Tires).

I use (RIDE # 30 WIDE BELTED SLICKS FOR SUPER) in the (rear) of my car!

And (RIDE # 30 NARROW BELTED SLICKS FOR SUPERS) in the (front) of my car.

I from experience have had okay luck with them. But they will bust over time for no reason! Mostly due to the power of the motor. There are no rubber tires available that can handle a .21 Engine except foam tires.

As for rims that will work go to the website below! (Make sure you match up wide rims to wide tires and narrow rims to narrow tires also make sure the (RIMS SAY SUPER TEN AND HAVE A 12MM HEX!) IF you are not sure about the Hex size email me!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0096p?&N=N&C=&F=LXM896&L=KYOC6393&S1=KYOSHO&S2=RIMS&S3=&S4=

[C0NTENDER]

To add on to what Toyotatogo stated, I have foams on kyosho rims and the rims are pretty strong, but then again, I'm not running a .21. As far as the kyosho tires, I have only used them a few times, but that was in a racing situation. They are hard as bricks so they might just work out for your .21.

[poopie]

does anyone have a spare spacer for the front c-hub? The one where the doe in the top and bottom holes for the 2 screws that hold on the steering block. Or does anyone have the part number for it?

[Toyotatogo]

Poopie I am having trouble understanding what you are trying to say re-state the question or show us a picture. :confused:

[RandyT]

If its the parts I think your talking about. Its on page 12 of the manual...and I think its Tree A390

[poopie]

it is part number A838. Is anyone out there generous enough to send me a spare?

[RandyT]

The tree is like 5 or 6 dollars. I don't think anyone is going to spend a buck to send it to you.

[popsracer]

Guys;

I devised a way to raise thje rear roll center on the HPI nitro cars. I tried it on my Sons Nitro-2 and the improvement in handling is amazing. Anyways I figured out how to do this on the Super too and since the suspension geometry is the same it should provide an equal improvement in handling.

Ok here's a picture link: My Super Nitro (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=809895)

[poopie]

Well I was just checking if anyone had a spare they couls stink in an envelope. The parts package is about $4 plus another $4 or $5 shipping. My LHS doesn't caryy HPI products.

[poopie]

Nevermind, after an hour of searching I found it.

[PCC]

Originally posted by popsracer
Guys;

I devised a way to raise thje rear roll center on the HPI nitro cars. I tried it on my Sons Nitro-2 and the improvement in handling is amazing. Anyways I figured out how to do this on the Super too and since the suspension geometry is the same it should provide an equal improvement in handling.

Ok here's a picture link: My Super Nitro (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=809895)

Looking at the picture doesn't show me anything nor tells me what you did.

[Rookie Solara]

Does anyone realized that SNRS4 (or regular RS4) can have the Up/Down stop on their suspension arms and chassis......? I saw the holes on the front and rear arms, and the chassis does have the STOP area right underneath the holes.......

Is that suppose to be the Up/Down stop feature on the SNRS4..? Just wondering.....if not, I will make one up.......the ride height on my SNRS4 is kinda high.....

[Toyotatogo]

Posted by Rookie Solara
I will find out this weekend.......apparently they collected a lot of HPI junk and sell them in HIGH price.......like SNRS4 universal for $40 a pair........worst then Serpent.



Did you ever find out where I can buy the (HPI 12mm Clamp Hex Hubs)? :(

[jjl]

http://**************/ws/*******************************3107770218&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1

[jjl]

here it is.
email me at john.limb@oandb.com and I'll tell you about my car. Hope you like it.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Does anyone realized that SNRS4 (or regular RS4) can have the Up/Down stop on their suspension arms and chassis......? I saw the holes on the front and rear arms, and the chassis does have the STOP area right underneath the holes.......

Is that suppose to be the Up/Down stop feature on the SNRS4..? Just wondering.....if not, I will make one up.......the ride height on my SNRS4 is kinda high.....

Yes, it can be done. Just get a pack of M3X10 headless screws and thread four of them, one in each arm, into the holes. These holes are used on the Racer 2 for downstops. Not sure how you can set them up for upstops, though.

[show2ime]

Just putthese on your super

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by PCC
Yes, it can be done. Just get a pack of M3X10 headless screws and thread four of them, one in each arm, into the holes. These holes are used on the Racer 2 for downstops. Not sure how you can set them up for upstops, though.

Thanks, that is exactly what I think it should be....and yes, there are NO UP stop.....my bad.

BTW, those IMPACT foams on the above pic......does that required the IMPACT wheel axcle...?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
Posted by Rookie Solara
I will find out this weekend.......apparently they collected a lot of HPI junk and sell them in HIGH price.......like SNRS4 universal for $40 a pair........worst then Serpent.



Did you ever find out where I can buy the (HPI 12mm Clamp Hex Hubs)? :(

I am sorry, I never had the chance to go to the LHS, but I will this weekend....I will find out for you.

[Dropkicked]

Hey all,

I'm looking for a used SNRS4. What should I pay? Probably stock, or near stock. Preferable RTR. I'm not asking if you guys are selling, just asking how much I should pay without getting ripped.

Thanks,

Drop

[popsracer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Does anyone realized that SNRS4 (or regular RS4) can have the Up/Down stop on their suspension arms and chassis......? I saw the holes on the front and rear arms, and the chassis does have the STOP area right underneath the holes.......

Is that suppose to be the Up/Down stop feature on the SNRS4..? Just wondering.....if not, I will make one up.......the ride height on my SNRS4 is kinda high.....

Rookie;

These are DROOP screws for adjusting your droop. Do not use for adjusting ride height. A combination of SHOCK length, spring preload adjustment and mounting position is what ride height is set with.
I think the SN takes 4mm screws in the arms and the regular Nitro's take 3mm.

[popsracer]

Originally posted by PCC
Looking at the picture doesn't show me anything nor tells me what you did.

The picture was never intended to show the mod. I did however post some pictures of the same mod done on a Nitro-2 in that forum. What is basicly does is raise both mounting positions of the rear camber link to match that of the newer shaft drive cars. I can tell you that the improvement in handling is amazing. No other modification or adjustment has made such a positive impact on the way the car behave as this mod.
Only things you will need are one each 2mm and 3mm drill bits (or fractional equiv) and a 4m x 15mm set screw for the SN camber link.
Ok here's the picture of the mod done to a Nitro-2. The mounting points are the same on the SN just reverse sides and flip the inner mounts to get the same position. (you will have to redrill) Fab it up and it will all make sense.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=812365

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Dropkicked
Hey all,

I'm looking for a used SNRS4. What should I pay? Probably stock, or near stock. Preferable RTR. I'm not asking if you guys are selling, just asking how much I should pay without getting ripped.

Thanks,

Drop

It really depends on the condition and how close to stock it is. Ex. I'm serlling one this spring for like 200-250 and that is w/o a radio. But if you look on ebay, you can find some good deals for like 150.00

[PCC]

Originally posted by popsracer
I think the SN takes 4mm screws in the arms and the regular Nitro's take 3mm.

My Super started life as a Racer2 because I couldn't give it away. The same droop screws that were in it are in my Super.

BTW, thanks for the info about the suspension mod. I'll give it a try if I don't sell my Super (Dropkicked, hint hint;)).

[Dropkicked]

Well, if you couldn't give it away as a racer 2 you can sure give it to me as a super :). But feel free to PM me or e-mail me with the info.

Drop

[Toyotatogo]

You can have mine..............................

[Dropkicked]

OK!!

[Toyotatogo]

:p SIKE!:p you couldn't possibly pay me enough....................

[PCC]

Dropkicked, YGM.

[PCC]

Oops, double-tap.

[popsracer]

After you try the Car with the suspension Mod, you may not want to sell it anymore. Now all it needs is adjustable Rear toe and it would be perfect.

[PCC]

Umm, selling to make space for a MRX3. Once you've gone MRX3, you'll never go back!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by popsracer
Rookie;

These are DROOP screws for adjusting your droop. Do not use for adjusting ride height. A combination of SHOCK length, spring preload adjustment and mounting position is what ride height is set with.
I think the SN takes 4mm screws in the arms and the regular Nitro's take 3mm.

Thanks for the head up.......I totally understand the ride height, droop, up stop and down stop on TC car.......however, my problem is the shock I used are already set to the lowest setting, and the only way I can set it lower is using a UP-STOP set screws on the suspension arms - and YES, that is NOT the right way to do, but I just want to have those screws ready in case I need to drop the car a little, by dialing those UP-STOP screws, I will lose the Up-droop completely.......but again, that is ONLY just in case, I think the ride height on my SNRS4 are good enough. I am more concern about that 4 engine mount screws, if I dropped the car too low, those screws might be shaved and will not be able to un-screws them afterall.

Thanks again........

P.S....Toyotatogo - my LHS does not have the HPI alum. HEX hub.....sorry.

[Toyotatogo]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

[Rookie Solara]

What is so special about that HEX....? It definitely won't get your SNRS4 go any faster.........my NTC3 and the SNRS4 still using the plastic one and they never fail me.

[neon2]

hi what is the best engine to put in the super nitro. i need it to do 34,000 rpms with more than 1hp thank you

[Toyotatogo]

I just wanted to make my baby look pretty.............:D I care a lot about my R/C Cars....... Besides It makes her feel better.......:D



Ps. neon2 the best (Heart) for your super nitro is this engine...........

Nova Mega Evo-5 Michael Salvin .21
Price $419.99

Specs:
44,000+ rpms
2.8 hp.
No Question....... A real crowd pleaser..................!

[quisanoj001]

I just finished mounting a traxxas 2.5 engine in my super. used a GPM adjustable small block mount.got it tuned this weekend. it was going pretty fast.about on par with my novarossi CX-15 big block that I used to run in it.
http://dfmods.df-hosting.com/upload/uploads/2.5%20SN%201.JPG

http://dfmods.df-hosting.com/upload/uploads/2.5%20SN6.JPG

only thing I found is that I had to run a little shorter pressure line to increase the pressure in the tank.car was acting like it was running lean with the longer pressure line. it runs great now, cut off about 5 inches of line from what is in the picture
http://dfmods.df-hosting.com/upload/uploads/2.5%20SN%203.JPG

[Dropkicked]

is that (or rather was that) an MIP stinger pipe?

[quisanoj001]

no, it is an MIP side pipe like in the picture here:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/m/mipg3042.jpg
I got it at my LHS but it was just the pipe and not an exhaust kit. the pipe is the same as the stinger but the exhaust exits from the side. pretty good pipe, nice sound and nice price, was like $18 for just the pipe.

[Rookie Solara]

Just a side note of the .21 engine.........you have to concern about the TIRES with those engine.......Without a doubt, MS 21 Evo will give you monster power, but those engine are designed to mount onto something like Veteq or Vector NT or should I say "950" now.......those 1/8th monster are using 45mm wide rear FOAM to handle those 2.8 hp engine, and usually you will need a new set of foams every single day of race.....

I have seen plenty of JP .21 or other big block 21 engine on SNRS4....however, most of the time they are just for DRAG racing use or just parking lot playing......never on the real race, because they usually BLEW away on the straight, but at the turns, they either ended up at the CURB, or major UNDERSTEERING due to the extra power, not to mention tires flew out, chip foams, and other money concern damage on the car due to the extra power.

I love to see FAST car, but if you are planning to race the SNRS4, think about something smaller (that is NOT NECESSARY SLOWER)...like .15 big block or some TURBO small block .12 engine, with the 2-speed, high gear and right setting, your SNRS4 might surprised you even racing with those big block .15 Serpent IMPACT (Trust me, I saw plenty of Serpent IMPACT can not have any advantage over SNRS4 with a MT-12 ROAR legal engine, and my SNRS4 will join the HPI force to proof that faster is NOT always better).....

Just my opinion..........

[RandyT]

quisano:

That's a pretty small exhaust pipe for a .21. I think if you get a pipe made for a .21, your engine will breath better, and you'll get more out of it.

[Dropkicked]

That's a pretty small exhaust pipe for a .21. I think if you get a pipe made for a .21, your engine will breath better, and you'll get more out of it.

It's a big block .15 not a .21

[RandyT]

Sorry abouts that, I misread your post

[quisanoj001]

dropkicked and RandyT- the engine in my car is the new traxxas 2.5 engine that their vehicles like the T-maxx and 4-tec come with from the factory now. it is actually a small block .15 but it has some nice internal mods from the factory.I got it directly from traxxas thru a special offer. I do most of my posting there and was contacted by one of their employees about the offer. so far the engine seems to put out. the next chance I get I am going to go back and try and race my super with the traxxas engine powering it at our club races.

[show2ime]

I agree with rookie. A .21 is the only way to go for parking lot drags, which is what i use mine for. I have numerous mods. too many to list. the heart being the Evo5 Ms. It is by far the best .21 out there. but u will need to upgrade some parts. steel pulley shaft, cvd's, associated 2 speed, serpent centax are some. The super is a very good platform for a number of things. But let's face it, most people do paking lot racing. If you wanna race in events, just get a 150.00 sirio and swap the engines out. You will run as far as your driving skills will take you. The ms is str8 though. I have threaded shocks, new aluminum steering linkage and the car doesn't handle bad `at all. Wolfgang and i are working on some info on Wolfpacks' site. i will keep u posted on a timeframe. The current project is an OS 21 VZR on `a Ntc3. I will post the pics next week. it is going to be a beast. Might be faster than my super in the end.

[Rookie Solara]

Can't agree more.........Wolfgang is the GREAT guy, he saved my life on the .12 SG crank engine issue, I cannot say more to that guy.

About the NTC3 with 21.......man, you are NUTS, that NTC3 might ended up TOOK OFF to the air and fly.......I would love to see that happen, but definitely won't happen to me, as we all know...NTC3 is kinda like a Protege (a protected items).....very easy to break, I can barely keep the car in one-piece after races, immagine you drop a MS turbo 21 on the NTC3.............I really want to see the before and after look on that 2-speed and the trans. of the NTC3.

Great idea.......let us know the result.

[Poindexter]

I bought an RS4 Super Nitro with the Wolf Pack conversion from a hobby Shop on eBay. When I got it, it had an OS RG-X (PS) with a CVEC pipe. The first thing I did was remove the OS and replace it with an RB .15 (ROAR version with only 3 ports and a 5.5mm carb), and an RB X15 one piece pipe. This thing moves!! I have gone through most of it, and upgraded, servos, fuel line, bearings, etc. The only thing that is bothering me about it is the steering bellcrank system. I tossed the cheesy z-bend piano wire and threaded in a couple of pillow balls and used a Lunsford Ti rod in the mean time, but there is still a lot of play and slop in the steering system. Who makes a better aftermarket steering set-up?

[Poindexter]

I bought an RS4 Super Nitro with the Wold Pack conversion from a hobby Shop on eBay. When I got it, it had an OS RG-X (PS) with a CVEC pipe. The first thing I did was remove the OS and replace it with an RB .15 (ROAR version with only 3 ports and a 5.5mm carb), and an RB X15 one piece pipe. This thing moves!! I have gone through most of it, and upgraded, servos, fuel line, bearings, etc. The only thing that is bothering me about it is the steering bellcrank system. I tossed the cheesy z-bend piano wire and threaded in a couple of pillow balls and used a Lunsford Ti rod in the mean time, but there is still a lot of play and slop in the steering system. Who makes a better aftermarket steering set-up?

[RandyT]

Powerline makes a steering bell crank which works well. If you have the Wolfpack Chassis conversion, I would not purchase the Powerline steering bell crank for the Super Nitro since you will have to do alot of grinding and cutting to get it to fit. The last comment is from experience. Pain in the butt. The NRS4 one is probably easier to install. I also believe that Wolfpack makes a steering bell crank also.

[show2ime]

The OS .21 VZR is in the TC3. It looks like a direct fit! I have the 22-27, 52-48 gears. I also have the solid rear diff, front 1 way and the complete lightweight drivetrain conversion. I used a Mugen .21 buggy header and an HPI race fuel tank, being it's shorter than the stock ae tank. I am going to use the standard AE pipe with a drilled out stinger. The diameter is the same as my 0886 pipe since i drilled it out. I used a Proceed 3 shoe flywheel but I have a k factory centax on the way. Going to be hard to start since the flywheel is so small on that centax. May have to mod the chassis to get the starter wheel up n there. Using 32mm yokomo inch up in rear and 26mm in front. The car is going to be a rocket. I will post the pics tommorrow. ALso, what clutch do u have in your super? I want an alternative to the serpent centax.

[Rookie Solara]

Show2ime..WOW.....21 on NTC3, again, please drop a full size MASONRY block on top of the NTC3 to generate some downforce, otherwise, that thing will TAKE OFF on the straight away.....LOL.

Yes, please post some pictures for us, I would love to see that.

One thing for sure about the Serpent Centax on SNRS4.........DO NOT even think about that, it won't work, I tried that 2 days ago with my friends MS version EVO4 SX-15..........the whole engine/adjustable engine mount, dimesnion, length and things are perfect with the centax (esp, the flywheel, works out almost perfect)...................EXCEPT the gears, since I raced Serpent the last 4 years, I should know that.....Serpent Spurs gears are kinda THICK and DEEP compare to others, and the 2 speed clutch gears on the centax are FAR apart (then HPI at least)....that is exactly the PROBLEM, the 2nd gear on the centax is sitting right in between the 1st and 2nd spur gear and the 1st gear on centax is barely touching the 1st spur gear.....conclusion - that is a NO GO.

And for me, I just got my RS-12 T5 back on, and race with that.....afterall, I don't think the T5 are that far behind to those .15 or .21....well, at least I can HANG with them, I hope.

[show2ime]

dang. Guess I will have to pay 150.00 for a slide centax. I didn't want to spend that much. The gears mesh perfectly on the HPI though. No spacing like the serpent. You never told me the clutch you have in your super. I just got done putting the assciated 3 shoe setup in my super. Dying to see how its going to work. I feel it might be better than the HPI race clutch. Time will tell I guess. I just won a JP mod. rs12 3 port off ebay for 187.00. I thinks it is a good deal. What do U think? It still needs to be broken in. So he says. It looks brand new. I am putting that in my other NTC3. The way we race around here, gotta cover all the classes! We drag race for big bucks here. So, u think the tc3 will be faster than the super??I just weighed them both and the tc3 is a little lighter. The OS should be a powerhouse. 2.5 at 34k rpm. Not as much as my evo5, but the shaft drive and gearing on the tc3 should be the factor. I hope the hardcore shaft and drive cup hold up!

[tl01boi]

my super nitro has been on my shelf for a while its missing one belt and the brakes hahahah i got it running with two wheel drive in the front it still moves fast exept the 2 nspeed transmission won't engage in 2 wheel drive lol umm i still doesnt no how fast it goes stock do u guys no?

[Speed De]

Hi,

I have a SNRS4 for some time and I want to change the stock FE with something more powerful. I was planing to put a Novamega 15 ms EVO4, but I read about the problems of Rookie Solara. Can you give me some advice how to put it inside my SNRS4 or should i give up the idea. Thanks

[Speed De]

Also I want to know if the HPI 2 speed can handle that much power?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Speed De
Hi,

I have a SNRS4 for some time and I want to change the stock FE with something more powerful. I was planing to put a Novamega 15 ms EVO4, but I read about the problems of Rookie Solara. Can you give me some advice how to put it inside my SNRS4 or should i give up the idea. Thanks

Ok....my problem is NOT exactly same as yours, if you are planning to go to big block 15 like the MS EVO4 (that is one damn good engine), all you need is the wolfgang adjustable kits, and I believed the kits came with the adjustable engine mount for big block and a specail offseted flywheels for SNRS4/.15 engine.....for a safely factor, I would buy the OFNA shaft extension kits cause beside the shaft extensioner, it also came with a lot of different thickness of SHIMS that you might need on the .15 MS.

But with .15, your trouble is definitely much LESS then my .12 SG crank, cause my 12 is a lot smaller then your .15 and my engine need a lot of EXTENSION to able to reach to the spur gears.

Take a look at the PAGE 2 on this exact same thread, someone got the big block JP 15 on his SNRS4 and all he got are the same kit from Wolfpack just like I mentioned above.....about the durability of HPI gears versus MS EVO4 engine............. hee hee, you are ON YOUR OWN (I still think HPI are still a little weak for that monster power).

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by show2ime
dang. Guess I will have to pay 150.00 for a slide centax. I didn't want to spend that much. The gears mesh perfectly on the HPI though. No spacing like the serpent. You never told me the clutch you have in your super. I just got done putting the assciated 3 shoe setup in my super. Dying to see how its going to work. I feel it might be better than the HPI race clutch. Time will tell I guess. I just won a JP mod. rs12 3 port off ebay for 187.00. I thinks it is a good deal. What do U think? It still needs to be broken in. So he says. It looks brand new. I am putting that in my other NTC3. The way we race around here, gotta cover all the classes! We drag race for big bucks here. So, u think the tc3 will be faster than the super??I just weighed them both and the tc3 is a little lighter. The OS should be a powerhouse. 2.5 at 34k rpm. Not as much as my evo5, but the shaft drive and gearing on the tc3 should be the factor. I hope the hardcore shaft and drive cup hold up!

To be honest, CENTAX works great ONLY on engine 15 or bigger, I never had any GOOD experience of CENTAX on any .12 TC, however, on my IMPACT, it is a MUST and the car launch like a rocket without reving the engine to RED-LINE, I still think that has to do with the power between .12 and .15/.21 engine, so if you are planning to do OUTLAW engine modification, I think CENTAX is a waste of time on .12 engine (you don't see any NATIONAL NTC3 running centax, don't you?)

I definitely think NTC3 will be faster then SNRS4 with the same spec of engine (.21 OS).......however, I will think SNRS4 will be the one crossed the finish line first due to the longer and wider chassis/trackion over the NTC3.......with the .21 engine on NTC3, I can imagine wheel hops, fish tails and spin around on the launch NO MATTER what kind of foam or rubber or whatever setting that you can work on NTC3, that has to do the small compact size of NTC3, not to mention the weight of the .21 engine plus gas tank will forced the weight over ONE SIDE on the NTC3. I think SNRS4 does have the edge of taking advantage of bigger engine then NTC3........SNRS4 is heavier, but definitely drive much better and more stable then NTC3 WHEN both cars equipped with .21 engines.

[Rookie Solara]

I have a paint master to help me painted the body, but I do all the sticker and carbon fiber sticker thingy too.......hee hee

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/newbody/P0003681.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/newbody/P0003680.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/newbody/P0003673.JPG

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/newbody/P0003672.JPG

What do you all think.......? HPI challenge, here I come (No, I am not talking about the Contour competition.......talking about the REAL SNRS4 race.....)

[Speed De]

So I need to buy the Wolfpack 15 big block conversion but do I need to buy also the Wolfpack 2 speed ot not(If yes why).What do you meen Ofna extension kit? Isn't that the Ofna shaft nut or what? I wanna know also what else do I need to make my SNRS4 handle the power of the Novamega and to handle better on the track? I am asking because I also want to do some serious racing this season.

[show2ime]

I have some lead wights on one side and adjusted the tweak. It is going to be ok. I think if it starts to wheel hop, I will put the ball diff back in and adj. accordingly. We all have seen the hpi rs4's with .21's and they launch fine. Better than I thought and the schumacher runs straight too. engine is a little more on center but I should be ok.

[C0NTENDER]

Rookie Solara


Looks nice, just make sure you make the proper changes to comply with the challenge rules.

[tl01boi]

am i the only one who is running with the stock fe engine in my supernitro

[show2ime]

It looks that way! I have a jp mod rs12 3 port for sale....

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
Rookie Solara


Looks nice, just make sure you make the proper changes to comply with the challenge rules.

You know what, I might over look something here and there....can you tell me what changes do I have to adjust (No, I an not starting fire here or making fun of you or whatever) I am serious.......HPI told me the Turbo RE engine, engine mount, OFNA extension, Serpent clutch and even the ASSOICATE 2-speed conversion are OK for the HPI SNRS4 challenge rules...

Yes, I will convert to the HPI gas tank, that I know......

Thanks........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Speed De
So I need to buy the Wolfpack 15 big block conversion but do I need to buy also the Wolfpack 2 speed ot not(If yes why).What do you meen Ofna extension kit? Isn't that the Ofna shaft nut or what? I wanna know also what else do I need to make my SNRS4 handle the power of the Novamega and to handle better on the track? I am asking because I also want to do some serious racing this season.

Yes...that is a must for the .15/.21 engine conversion.

About the AE 2-speed hub conversion, I found that works much smoother and better then the OEM hpi single blade version........if $$$ is OK, I think that is well worth it.

No...I was not talking about the SHAFT NUT......OFNA has a crank shaft EXTENSIONER that extend the length of the SG crank for .12 engine, you got a .15 engine, and I don't believe you will need that.......

To make a HPI car handle better on track (talking about RACES)....start on the shock/suspension first, then tires........the last thing you want to do is convert your HPI into some PURPLE alumimun machine.......because I garantee you that it won't go any faster.....get down to the basic.

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara


Yes, I will convert to the HPI gas tank, that I know......

Thanks........

:) actually, I was refering to the gas tank. Hey, what challenge do you plan on going to, just curious?

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by tl01boi
am i the only one who is running with the stock fe engine in my supernitro

I run a Novarossi in mine, but the fastest guy at my track last season ran a stock FE and he smoked EVERYONE hahaha. He won the points for the season, leaving me in the dust in 2nd for the season points. I only managed to beat him 2 of 9 mains. He's a badazz driver though. I will say my car was definately faster, but he's just the man (well, until I break him down this season! hehe). :)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
:) actually, I was refering to the gas tank. Hey, what challenge do you plan on going to, just curious?

Oh yeah, that is too obvious........suddenly rookiesolara can finish a 10 minutes main within PIT SHOP.....? Hmmm, how come...?

But according from the HPI Rules, even though somehow you can manage to ran a 10 race with a 75cc tank, you STILL have to have a 3 second stop no matter what.....so, I rather FUEL the tank instead of a penalty stop.

Yes, several friends and I are planning a ROAD trip to Michigan RACE in July......the rest are too expensive or too far to get there...hope to see you there.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Way2Fast
I run a Novarossi in mine, but the fastest guy at my track last season ran a stock FE and he smoked EVERYONE hahaha. He won the points for the season, leaving me in the dust in 2nd for the season points. I only managed to beat him 2 of 9 mains. He's a badazz driver though. I will say my car was definately faster, but he's just the man (well, until I break him down this season! hehe). :)

Sounds too familiar.......I too one time own a 15 powered SERPENT IMPACT and race this guy's single speed NO MOD SNRS4 w/MT-12 engine......and guess what, I can only be able to beat him 2 out of 6 times, and that 2 is because he ran out of GAS........my IMPACT is definitely WAY faster then his SNRS4.......but a full course race is not just one long 180' straight road drag racing........his SNRS4 is on rail all the time and he just DOESN'T MAKE ANY MISTAKE/ERROR........

Some ppl just know how to drive, and I hope I could have one race day called "NO MISTAKE" day.

[Speed De]

After considering the money that I need for the engine, conversions and upgrades that I need to give to install the Novamega .15 SG I think that a RB x12T(standart crank) is more suitable for my budget. My consern is that it doesn't have enough torque for my SN and won't be competitive. Is that so or not . Please give me an advice.

[Rookie Solara]

That is really depends on WHO and WHAT are you racing with....? If all of your friend are DRAG racing on the parking lot.....drop your money on the biggest and meanest engine like .21

But you are racing at some organized race track with some ENGINE limitation, then the RC X12T is a very good choice....but if you are planning to get .12 Standard crank engine, also consider the TURBO on Sirio or MT-12 or even the new MR-12, those are the NEWER design engine....and I believed the X12 are a little OLDER, but my friends X12 Roar legals are very strong like everything else.

Again, you have to see what they are running, then you pick the engine that competable with them.

[number 17]

I just got a Super the other day and was wondering what type of rubber tires and inserts are you guys running? Also what weight shock oil is recommended for this car? I plan on racing it this spring. Thanks in advance

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You know what, I might over look something here and there....can you tell me what changes do I have to adjust (No, I an not starting fire here or making fun of you or whatever) I am serious.......HPI told me the Turbo RE engine, engine mount, OFNA extension, Serpent clutch and even the ASSOICATE 2-speed conversion are OK for the HPI SNRS4 challenge rules...

Yes, I will convert to the HPI gas tank, that I know......

Thanks........

I'm probably just going to attend the NJ race. Hey, I do have one question for you, how did you get the assoicate 2-speed on the super and do you have a pic. Heck, let me go look through this thread to make sure you have not posted it already. What do you think about the Serpent clutch and Assoicate 2-speed combo on the Super.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by C0NTENDER
I'm probably just going to attend the NJ race. Hey, I do have one question for you, how did you get the assoicate 2-speed on the super and do you have a pic. Heck, let me go look through this thread to make sure you have not posted it already. What do you think about the Serpent clutch and Assoicate 2-speed combo on the Super.

I have to go home soon, so I make it quick.

(1) about the AE 2-speed clutch shoes, you have to use the wolfpack radical 2-speed housing, look at page 2 on this same exact thread (SNRS4) and you should be able to see couple pictures of that piece of hardware, which is GOLD on color, and you need the special clutch nut for the 2-speed, you can order that from Wolfpack and I think that is 100 times smoother and better then the OEM parts.

(2) about the Serpent clutch on the pinion, I use the Serpent Impulse 2-speed clutch nut (not centax, just OEM) along with the same shoes and the same springs.....then I put the OEM HPI 2-speed pinion gears on it, works like a glove.

(3) Performance, I have no idea.....since we still have 4" of snow outside......but by pushing, rubbing and pulling the whole chassis around, it looks very smooth already, and I don't see I have to MOD anything on her, very much RACE READY situation.

If you need more info, I will try to answer tomorrow since I have 4 meetings at work here...

Cheers.

[tl01boi]

my 2 speed transmission on my super nitro stripped !! i was going about thirty and the bearing came off the axle that the gears run on is there any way to get both the gears without getting a new 2 speed trannny

[C0NTENDER]

Rookie Solara,

Thanks, those pics on page two with the description should help me out.

[Rookie Solara]

You just have to check and make sure the HOUSING of the 2-speed are in good shape.....and yes, you can just replace both plastic gears by just replacing them only, no need to buy the whole thing.

Look at the manual and find that 2 geras parts #.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by RandyT
Powerline makes a steering bell crank which works well. If you have the Wolfpack Chassis conversion, I would not purchase the Powerline steering bell crank for the Super Nitro since you will have to do alot of grinding and cutting to get it to fit. The last comment is from experience. Pain in the butt. The NRS4 one is probably easier to install. I also believe that Wolfpack makes a steering bell crank also.

Randy, Solara, all of you guys, thanks for the helpful info. Now for another question: What wheelbase should I run my car at? I notice that at it's current setting of 300mm, the rear dogbones are angled back. Will power delivery be smoother at 280 mm? Is handling adversely affected?

Also, regarding the use of a .15 Big block, it drops right in without needing a crank extension. I removed the OS RG .21 that my car came with and replaced it with the RB .15. The only thing I had to do was order a new set of throttle linkage as the existing linkage was too short. I also won a NovaMega .15 EV0-4MS on eBay, so it will really rock and roll!:D

Solar, does Wolfgang have the AE 2-speed kit in stock? Thanks!!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Randy, Solara, all of you guys, thanks for the helpful info. Now for another question: What wheelbase should I run my car at? I notice that at it's current setting of 300mm, the rear dogbones are angled back. Will power delivery be smoother at 280 mm? Is handling adversely affected?

Also, regarding the use of a .15 Big block, it drops right in without needing a crank extension. I removed the OS RG .21 that my car came with and replaced it with the RB .15. The only thing I had to do was order a new set of throttle linkage as the existing linkage was too short. I also won a NovaMega .15 EV0-4MS on eBay, so it will really rock and roll!:D

Solar, does Wolfgang have the AE 2-speed kit in stock? Thanks!!

(1) 300mm vs 280mm, I doubt there is a big difference, it is all base upon the choice of your body, MOST ppl like GT1 (including me) however, for the race issue, I hated the GT1 cause I got no access to the fuel tank, so BMW V12 LMR is my only choice, but still, that body rocks.....and I think the SHORTER the wheel base, the less power required from the MOTOR (that is JUST how I feel, no phyical data to support what I am saying)

(2) As I mentioned, 15 should not need the OFNA extension kits, as long as you have the Wolfpack Adjustable engine mount for out-law engine.......good luck with your RB (great engine) and the Nova Mega (even better)

(3) Yeah, email Wolfgang himself direction (email: WolfPR@aol.com ) and tell him HOWARD (Rookie Solara from Radiocontrolzone forum) told you to do this conversion, he should be kind enoogh to sell/ship you a set of the 2-speed clutch housing conversion, if you want more info and want to see that housing, check out my link on page 2. I am not sure the whole thing will including the 2-speed clutch shoes and 2-speed harware from AE (parts #2289 and 2292) within the package, but you can get them from LHS, they are NTC3 2-speed parts...see pic below..the wolfpack should include that GOLD round 2-speed housing and that special NUT on the left, the other, you have to ask Wolfgang himself....and I think that is well worth it.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/snrs4/2speed/P0003360.JPG

[Poindexter]

Solara, thanks!! That is really helpful! I'm going to convert the car to 280 mm wheelbase (I have this cool Lamborghini Murcielago that was custom painted by a friend). I guess the Corvette body will have to sit this one out...:D

Are you using universals front/rear? I've got a set for the front and am ordering a set for the rear.

I'll post pictures soon!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Are you using universals front/rear? I've got a set for the front and am ordering a set for the rear.

I'll post pictures soon!

Yes...I got the HPI universal front and rear (no need to worry poping those dogbones on corners)....

And I got the GPM alloy dogbone hubs, just a hair stronger then the OEM one....

[number 17]

I can't seem to find the part number for the larger fuel tank. Does anyone know what it is? Thanks

[Toyotatogo]

I will tell you in due time where to buy one..........:p

[tl01boi]

i got a bigger gas tank in my car it fit perfectley no drilling needed i used the hpi rush gas tank lol

[PCC]

Last time I looked, the Rush fuel tank is the same as the one on the Super (A800).

[Toyotatogo]

I run a 125cc Fuel Tank with a Alumminum Upper deck on my Super Nitro Car if you are intrested in where to buy one let me know...

[tl01boi]

i have the rush and super nitrro and the rush tank is longer and a litle fatter

[Rookie Solara]

The one I got is from Kyosho Inferno 7.5 (125cc) all you need is some minor cutting on the radio tray, very easy to do....and actually, most of the 1/8th off-road buggy 125cc gas tank should work.....like Kyosho, OFNA and Mugen.

So, look around.

[number 17]

Thanks folks. I just found out the OFNA fuel tank part number OFNC3280 works for the car also.

HPI needs to do a better job of organizing there parts when you build a kit. I have built a NTC3, TC3, T3 and a XXXNT and there parts are organized. HPI just throws everything in a bag and says go for it boys. The instructions could use a little work also.

[tl01boi]

where can i get those wide rear tires that are like on the serpents and stuff or where can i get 1/8 scale foam tires for my super

[PCC]

Originally posted by tl01boi
i have the rush and super nitrro and the rush tank is longer and a litle fatter
Look at the instructions on HPI's site and you will see that HPI used the same tank on these cars. As a matter of fact, the Proceed and Savage are the only HPI nitro cars that don't have a 75cc tank.

[number 17]

Cool Thanks PCC. I will check it out.

[number 17]

Hi Rookie Solara

Where did you get the vented metal brake from and that air filter? Thanks,

[pep88]

Originally posted by number 17
Thanks folks. I just found out the OFNA fuel tank part number OFNC3280 works for the car also.


Yeah ,but I think thats the tank that has the fuel nozzle right above the mounting screw (in the back). That means you have to remove the feul nozzle to get the tank off (!?!?!?!).

Does anyone know if there's a 125cc tank that fits the GPM upper deck that doesnt have this problem? :confused:

Thanks

[number 17]

Originally posted by pep88
Yeah ,but I think thats the tank that has the fuel nozzle right above the mounting screw (in the back). That means you have to remove the feul nozzle to get the tank off (!?!?!?!).

Does anyone know if there's a 125cc tank that fits the GPM upper deck that doesnt have this problem? :confused:

Thanks

That is the tank that fits on the GPM upper deck.

[number 17]

Originally posted by pep88
Yeah ,but I think thats the tank that has the fuel nozzle right above the mounting screw (in the back). That means you have to remove the feul nozzle to get the tank off (!?!?!?!).

Does anyone know if there's a 125cc tank that fits the GPM upper deck that doesnt have this problem? :confused:

Thanks

Check on page 3 RCCarFreak has that tank and upper deck

[tl01boi]

will these tires let me takeoff alot better and gove me better handling http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCME3&P=7

[tl01boi]

will this header work on my stock .15 fe engine http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3432&P=7

[tl01boi]

what about this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ51&P=7 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWZ51&P=7

[pep88]

Originally posted by number 17
Check on page 3 RCCarFreak has that tank and upper deck

LOL, Yes I know, RCCarFreak, we work together. What Im wondering is, if there is a 125 cc tank that fits the GPM deck, that does not have the nozzle problem.

....The problem being, you have to remove the nozzle, to remove the tank from the upper deck.
:D

Thanks..

[pep88]

Just to clarify, RCCarFreak and I have the same tank. We both think it sucks to have to take off the nozzle to remove the tank.

I'm just looking for a tank that fits the GPM upper deck, and is a little easier to work with, but has the same, or close to the same capacity.

Thanks again.


:D

[Mika]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Solara, thanks!! That is really helpful! I'm going to convert the car to 280 mm wheelbase (I have this cool Lamborghini Murcielago that was custom painted by a friend). I guess the Corvette body will have to sit this one out...:D

Are you using universals front/rear? I've got a set for the front and am ordering a set for the rear.

I'll post pictures soon!

Cool. I just got a murcielago body for my FW04. Black is a nice color, but it does not work well at the track, does it.. I've been thinking yellow with slightly fluorescent tone with black rims and windows tinted.

I've got universals at front and rear, but at rear the effect is mostly cosmetical ;)

[number 17]

Originally posted by pep88
Just to clarify, RCCarFreak and I have the same tank. We both think it sucks to have to take off the nozzle to remove the tank.

I'm just looking for a tank that fits the GPM upper deck, and is a little easier to work with, but has the same, or close to the same capacity.

Thanks again.


:D

I wasn't aware of that problem I was looking around the website and read his list and thought it would match. Thanks for letting me know you saved me from ordering that tank.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by number 17
Hi Rookie Solara

Where did you get the vented metal brake from and that air filter? Thanks,

Vented disk brake......no idea, it came with the car, and I believed that is from Robinson racing, you can see some pics on RCCA.

K&N filer......from LHS, or I know you can buy it from EBAY.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by number 17
I wasn't aware of that problem I was looking around the website and read his list and thought it would match. Thanks for letting me know you saved me from ordering that tank.

My Wolfpack Conversion came with the OFNA tank--the way I got around the mounting problem was to use a hex screw to hold the tank; in this manner, I can get one of the "ball-hexes" angled in there to remove the screw and I don't have to remove the nozzle. Works like a charm....:D

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Mika
Cool. I just got a murcielago body for my FW04. Black is a nice color, but it does not work well at the track, does it.. I've been thinking yellow with slightly fluorescent tone with black rims and windows tinted.

I've got universals at front and rear, but at rear the effect is mostly cosmetical ;)

Cool! The Murcielago body looks great! I took the car out to the track this weekend. There was a big on road race scheduled for Sunday, so Saturday was mostly 1/10-scale practice, but I snuck the SN out for a few laps! This car is fast! I need to do a bit of suspension set-up, but it wasn't too far off--it was very stable down the long back straight. I guess the Murcielago body works pretty good (with the wing, of course...)

I've got a set of universals for the front--should I just leave the rear dog bones in place?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Poindexter
I've got a set of universals for the front--should I just leave the rear dog bones in place?

Yes...rear does not required a lot of turing, unless your SNRS4 are 4WS.........

[number 17]

Originally posted by Poindexter
Cool! The Murcielago body looks great!

Who makes the Murcielago body?

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by number 17
Who makes the Murcielago body?

HPI... It is the Lamborghini Murcielago, and is very finely detailed and very scale-looking.

[pep88]

Originally posted by number 17
I wasn't aware of that problem I was looking around the website and read his list and thought it would match. Thanks for letting me know you saved me from ordering that tank.

No prob, thing is, I dont think there is another tank that will work...or at least I havent found one that I like better. OFNA makes another tank (tower link)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXABE9&P=7

It has an offset feul nozzle, but I dont like the look of it either. Looks very vulnerable on the outside of the car all stickin up like that. Every other approx 125 cc tank Ive seen wont fit the deck or requires a mod. I'm still lookin though (hint, hint peeps!)
:D

[Mika]

Originally posted by Poindexter
I've got a set of universals for the front--should I just leave the rear dog bones in place?
Yes, I agree with Rookie Solara. At least in Kyosho's Super, it's enough to have universals only in front, and I suspect it's the case with the SNRS4, too.

BTW, What kind of diffs you use? Silicone filled gear diffs or ball diffs? Diffs are one of the most important factors when tuning the car for fast driving. I've tried both, and though ball diffs are great in action, I hate the constant cleaning and greasing, and lately given up replacing them with stock oil filled gear diffs.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by Mika
Yes, I agree with Rookie Solara. At least in Kyosho's Super, it's enough to have universals only in front, and I suspect it's the case with the SNRS4, too.

BTW, What kind of diffs you use? Silicone filled gear diffs or ball diffs? Diffs are one of the most important factors when tuning the car for fast driving. I've tried both, and though ball diffs are great in action, I hate the constant cleaning and greasing, and lately given up replacing them with stock oil filled gear diffs.

Interesting you should ask---I'm using an RRP ball diff in the rear, and an HPI ball diff in the front. I actually bought an HPI one-way for the front, but the gear had too few teeth (37t), so I need to order another gear. Incidentally, am I correct in assuming that the SNRS4 uses 39 teeth in the front/rear diffs? The Front one-way I bought from HPI said it was for a Super, but it only had 37 teeth...

You're absolutely correct about the ball diffs requiring maintenance--the reason I'm using an RRP aluminum-geared ball diff in the rear is that the HPI ball diff I had there wore through. If it is not tightened correctly, the steel balls will chew through the gear in no time!:D

[show2ime]

I as well tried the ball diff from rrp, but they are too much of a pain as far as maintaning then. I use a solid rear diff in my super and have front and rear universals. I never had had a problem with them. Car is smooth as silk. Really puts the power down.

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by show2ime
I as well tried the ball diff from rrp, but they are too much of a pain as far as maintaning then. I use a solid rear diff in my super and have front and rear universals. I never had had a problem with them. Car is smooth as silk. Really puts the power down.

Using a solid rear/front one-way would be similar to the Serpent or Mugen cars--not a bad idea, but it doesn't really work properly unless you're running foams and are on high-speed track. Otherwise, the diffs allow your car to turn a little better and make the car more stable under braking...

Does anyone else rung a solid spool in the rear?

[Rookie Solara]

Don't think the SNRS4 is anything SPECIAL or anything LESS special.....it is simply a longer wider version of 200mm TC, nothing more....

Never like the BALL diff, the difference is absolute minimum, but I was talking about ppl know how to GREASE their gear diff.

I use OFNA diff lock to grease the front gear diff to 90% lock situation