Kyosho Dodge Ram

[-=ADA$=-]

i have one as you probably know, and i invite peoplewith similar cars, or that cars that can share parts, like i think super ten or pure ten, and other qrc, mega force, so you can tell about any parts that come for your cars

[nitrodemon2500]

:( :( :( :( :( :( :( my dad has one. it can run over my nd(when it catchs it) but god it wont stay up long. plastic parts. by the way it is the wild dodge ram. sorry for saying the wrong thing. more metal on the nd faster speeds too

[-=ADA$=-]

i agree, the plastic sometimes is really crapy, but i like this car, and your first one that replied, in i think 2 or more months, congrats, ROFL:D

[nitrodemon2500]

fun to ride 2 trucks. i agree the reverse and touch starter are cool, just wish my nitro demon had that, come to the online chat

[Morpehus2be]

Hi! I just put together my GP Wild Dodge Ram w/.15 and electric starter. For steering, I'm using the bog standard Futaba S3003 servos. Testing the radio system, throttle seems ok but the steering is extremely sluggish. With all four wheels on the ground (indoors), the steering doesn't have enough power to move the big wheels all the way (either left or right). I'm thinking of runnig this thing on-road with some ProLine Speed Hawg 2s but I'm worried that the Futaba servos won't be able to handle that much grip. I was thinking there might be some problems with the steering assembly, but I checked all-round and everything seems fine. Do I need stronger servos?

Can anyone recommend a suitably priced heavyduty servo thats compatible with my Futaba 2PH?

Here's a pic of the steering assembly;

[-=ADA$=-]

on the ground its very hard for servo to turn the wheels, but when moving, it works nice and easy, and yea stronger servo is good idea, i would suggest from tower, hobbico servo it haso 133 oz of torq it would be enaugh, i think its twice the power of standerd servo and price is almost $40

[-=ADA$=-]

also i forgot to add, disassemble the touch starter, and thread lock screws that mount the electric motor, they fall off in my case and broke gears, also get some glo heater, the one that is included, drains power from batterie, and its supose to power the motor, next look out if you have revers, because if youll shift to fast when car is riding it can strip your gears, better choose forvard/break, and than when youll get better servo for steering put that one on shifting, when ill remember something new ill post it. have fun with that beast :D

[Morpehus2be]

Thanks! Good tips. Also, I noticed that, unlike my Streetforce or TL-01, the heavier Dodge Ram has trouble 'rolling' on neutral trims. My TL-01 moves a good bit when I shove it forward unpowered. As does my Streetforce. Thats how I set the brakes (because I like some mild braking on idle/neutral trims). Is this common on Monster Trucks? I was thingking, its because of the heavy shaft (like my 4WD shaft driven TL-01). I put gobs of grease everywhere but the wheels still won't spin as easy as I like them to be. Does the Ram have heavier engine breaking? i.e; will it stop/slow down quickly if I let go of the throttle (neutral)?

I'm quite used to reverse on RCs (from my TL-01 electric), but the QRC is bit more complex. Are there heavy duty replacements for the gears?

Tq

[nitrodemon2500]

we went to a local hobby shop and there isnt any stronger gears. they said people were switching to single speeds without the revers.:( :mad:

[-=ADA$=-]

firstly, it maybe caused like you say that its heavier, and IMO lack of bearings is the main thing, so it would be my second choice, now im awaiting my spur gear to arrive, i have gave it to man that knows a lot about cutting alu , and new head, cause i have used to much force to tighten my glow plug, and now i have to have new heat sink, also i ordered new two needle car, so when ill try it ill tell you if its worth to buy it, also with standard servo i think it will slow down just fine the wheels are really hard to block, firstly beacause of their size, and second because the steel disc break is a bit slippery,

[Morpehus2be]

;) Just as you said it would, after about 3 tanks of break-in the engine mounts went lose. As a result, pieces of the spur gear got shaven off! Anyway, a dab of thread lock fixed that. Also, what settings do you guys run the engine at for normal on-road? I have the high-end needle valve set at 2 1/2 turns on the GS-15R engine. Break-in was done at 2 turns gradually increasing to 2 1/2 now. At full throttle, the engine sounds a bit high pitched (too lean?) but when I turn it down, the engine won't stay running at idle i.e; I have to throttle a little to keep it running. If I set idle a little bit higher, then tendency for the engine to stop running if I gun the throttle too suddenly. I have to gradually lean on the power to accelerate.

Is there a problem with my idle setting? I made sure the carburator opening is ~1mm while at idle but the engine seemed sluggish and often died. Applying a little throttle on ignition was the only way to keep the engine running.

btw, I'm using GammaLube 25% nitro for fuel. During break-in never once did the engine overheat (I used the water drop test).

also, there seems to be excessive amounts of fuel coming out of the exhaust at idle but once I gun the throttle, thin white smoke comes out.

[-=ADA$=-]

ivhad similar proble, and yea spur gear is shaved, but watch for that electric motor in electric starter in there screws also loose, and with settings, ive had similar problem, and i eun it at 3/4 rom fully closed, so its rather small, but it doesnt run very hot, ive runed its leaner but then it stalled at WOT due to lack of fuel, so now its good, but ive ordered the optional two needle carb, so awaiting new settings, and maybe better performance, it never lifted it front wheels, and i want that bed, just to see how it is for real

[Morpehus2be]

Heh:p I finally gave up on the reverse. I installed the parts to use the brake system, however, I found that the QRC gear shift lever (for forward and reverse) got in the way and prevented the full traverse for the brake pin. I had to set the brake pin to maximum extent. Even then, the servos need to apply maximum pressure to get the brakes to grip. Is this a possible design flaw? I'm thinking, Kyosho put in the brakes to satisfy some customers but it was never part of the original design. So, its more of a drop-in part.

Another thing, I noticed, the brake pads look flimsy (like pieces of carboard). Is there an aftermarket brake pad that can fit the Donge Ram? I like the vented steel brake disk. At full pressure, the brakes to lock-up the front wheels. I would've preferred an all-round brake system since its a 4WD.

The throttle problems still persist and is getting on my nerves (the engine always seems to die off when the truck is at the furthest distance from me! :D ) I guess I'll have to play around with the needle stop valve and fuel mixture. Could it also be due to bad fuel or is there something wrong with the clutch and/or engine or filter?

:confused:

[-=ADA$=-]

if it dies at wot, or close to it, than richen it up a little, if it would die at idle set higher idle, and yea the breakes arent too good, but on what side have you set them, like sinsiode qrc, or outside?? its better outside, also you might want to do what i did, bend a little the end of breake wire downsides, cause if you would give it throttle after breate it could fall of, also i think there are pads, and im sure there is better breake rotor, i think it would fit cause i measured the one and the one from ram, its some upgraded disk from inferno, ill post pic, or link when ill find it. but if you would apply break at turn i did couple of cartwheels, it is ment to slow the truck down and as far it does its job

[-=ADA$=-]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXALW6&P=7 here is the link to better ( i think) braking

[Morpehus2be]

I've noticed that the plastic steering arms get dislocated very easily. I was involved in a crash with a rather wickedly fast electric touring car and both front and rear right side wheels (where the impact was) came off. After that incident, the steering arms came off rather easily even on mild jumps and sharp turns. Is there anyway to strengthen the arms? I replaced the plastic nuts with metal ones so I can use loctite on the steering column. The dogbones are also easily dislodged esp. when the steering arms came off. I'm thinking of switching to universals. Any reccomendations?

I love this truck, its good and fun to drive around all terrain. I've done about 5-6 tanks on it.

btw, here's a pic of the brake assembly;

notice haw the brake pin is unable to swing all the way (down) because the QRC gear shift rail is blocking it. I don't see how I can mount the brake system outside the QRC. Does it involve some modifications to the QRC unit or chassis?

:confused:

[-=ADA$=-]

i think if you would bent a little the wire, it would be ok ill try that with my brakes, and dunno about arms, i dont think i get it, did the steering knuckles, came off?? cause i dunno

[-=ADA$=-]

found it these are universals http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXV515

[Morpehus2be]

:D That's right, I meant the knuckles. The arms are sturdy enough, but the knuckles...I don't know. I believe it was designed to easily come off in case of hard knocks so that it would not break. Mine may be coming off too easily.

I got my kit from Tower Hobbies for USD148.18...but now its listed as USD199.00....just my luck to have spotted the offer earlier... ;)

[-=ADA$=-]

i had few accidents, but nothing serious, and nothig happend, and yea you were lucky

[Morpehus2be]

:( well, today just might be the day my luck ran out. I ran the truck a bit too lean today and the engine overheated. I'm beginning to think removing the engine cooling fan was a mistake (after I made the switch to braking). After a long cooling down, the engine now won't even start. I hope its nothing serious.

I haven't done any troubleshooting yet. Hopefully its just a glow plug or a flooded engine. Anything worst could mean mucho dineiros....What's the worst that could happen when an engine overheats or overrevs? Burnt piston head? Broken conrod? Melted clutch shoes? :( :( :(

[-=ADA$=-]

the worst that can happen, is that your engine will seize, this means sleeve gets too tigh on piston, and its not able to move, in that case you would have to get new piston, sleeve, and conrod, or it could be bearing, but i hope it wont be anything serious, and what was the temp, do you have temp gun?? today came the optional two nedle carb, and im waiting screws to come and ill clean my engine, and install new carb, so ill see if it will be better

[Morpehus2be]

Well, actually, the glow plug expired. So, I replaced it with OS #A3 glow plug and the connector from the touch starter needed to be enlarged to accomodate the new plug. I ran about 1/2 a tank today, before it started to rain (mostly glad to be able to hear the sound of the engine running again). Anyway, there was about 1/3 tank of fuel left which needed to be disposed before I turned in for the night. I decided to use the extra fuel to tune the fuel mixture and idle setting. Strange thing is, while warming up, the engine rev. became very erratic. It went up and down...up and down....until...about a minute or so, it died. At the low end, the revs sounded just right (as if it was the correct idle setting) and at the high end, the rev. wasn't too excessive....I guess, as if it was at maybe 1/3 or 1/2 throttle).I played around with the idle needle valve but still couldn't get the engine to run smoothly. Engine temperature was OK. (Btw, I reinstalled the fan system and bent the throttle linkages a bit to accomodate the fan.)

What could be the problem?

I checked the fuel line and it was ok (no bubbles). The fuel seems ok...I just filled the tank this afternoon. the glow plug is new...so, should be OK, right? After all, I ran 1/2 a tank just prior and it was nice and smooth. I made sure to run it richer today:D ....so, the truck was a little sluggish coming off the line.

hmmm....I guess this is part of the hobby. At least I'm learning something about these glow engines...:D

[-=ADA$=-]

check for air leaks in your carb, and maube backplate, it sounds like air leak in engine

[Morpehus2be]

I think I may have worn out the clutch. In neutral, I can shove the truck backwards freely, but forward is a no go. This only happens in neutral. Going forward with a little throttle seems ok. Also, the engine appears to be overheating again (even after I reinstalled the fan unit). I think its my driving style. I play in a wide open tarmac and sometimes like to drive at wot for a considerable duration. I've noticed how other drivers just drive with little burst of speed i.e; wot only for a split second.

btw, the engine sounds nice and smooth now. I've noticed some oil leaking thru the casing on the touch-starter motor. I think I'll have to take it apart to see whats wrong.

Given that the engine isn't meant for wot for long periods, is it a good idea to get the 2-speed? I mean, what if 2nd gear won't engage soon enough?

[-=ADA$=-]

i think that you dont have to worry to much about oil leaking from touch starter, there is hole in the starter shaft to oil one way bearing, but if there is too much oil, you should look at that, also try not to run your motor too long at WOT it will hurt it and cause it to overheat., also i think that 2speed is good idea if you dont jump alot, kyosho wrote me that jumping with 2speent cant damage it, cause in air it can shift to second gear and dont have enaugh speed, so if you rather go on tarmac as you said its good idea

[Morpehus2be]

Yeah, that's what I gathered. WOT too long...and the engine overheats. I gave the truck a rest today (it was raining), but I'll be back on the tracks tomorrow.

Do you think some ProLine Speed Hawg IIs would help on tarmac? With the stock tyres, it can do some amazing stunts! However, since cog is high, I have to slow down quite a bit to turn sharply. I'm not sure sway bars will help, since cog is high. Should I give it tougher shocks?

[-=ADA$=-]

i was thinkin about anti roll bar, but couldnt find one, and about shocks, i think that duratrax evader shocks should fit, theyr same lenght, aluminum body and you could get stiffer springs for it, i think it should be best setup, and yea speed hawgs, would be good, but they would need even stiffer springs, cause they grip better, and if you ride mainly on tarmac, than i think 2-speed is great upgrade, and also bearing set.

[Lavdlinden]

Hi there
I have a Dodge Ram and would like to Know what after market clutch I can use on it without to much work.:)

[-=ADA$=-]

if your talking about clutch shoes, there are kyosho Vespal clutch shoes, they claim them to be more immune for high temp and wear, but they are a bit expensive more than $30, look at tower for vespal, there are three kinds, and one standard for 1/10

[Morpehus2be]

Hey, my Dodge Ram is starting to feel really dialed in now. I just ran a tank over loose topsoil and gravel and the handling is great! I still have the problem of the steering linkage popping off but otherwise, the truck is great. Kyosho' GS-15R engine is good enough however, recently, it takes quite some throttle input to get the truck going. Could be a problem with the clutch. Also, I've noticed, the front wheel spins faster than the rear wheels....as if it was a front-wheel drive. I checked the differentials and they seemed Ok. Any thoughts on why my rear wheels aren't byting as well as the front?

[-=ADA$=-]

check on both sides of the diff, there are two little hole where you should see set screw( on the joint) it can be loose, i had similar problem, or if its just little difference it can be made purpously be kyosho, to avoid oversteering on loose surface, i got two needle carb, but didnt have chance to check if it gives some benefits, ill have chans as quick as ill get in contact with my friend that has my spur

[Morpehus2be]

It was the set screw all right....heh..heh. Tq ADA$. Also, I noticed the front right wheel hub (where the dogbones connect) is chipped. Guess its time I changed to universals...:p

[-=ADA$=-]

i was going to do this as first thing, with bearing, but the cost of bearings, and universals, and i couldnt find anything cheaper, glad i could help :)

[-=ADA$=-]

i want to ask you for help, i need all dimensions of spur gear, including diameter, number of teeth( on circumferance) and rest, i mean all, so if it wont be too big problem, than pleas help me, cause the man that i gave the spur lost it, and he will do it from measurements, and cheaper, thanks alot

[Lavdlinden]

I have run my .15 now for .5L of 15% nitro and it's going strong.
Are there after market shocks and tyres fot the Dodge. I am about to paint the shell - you have any tips???

[Lavdlinden]

Using the QRC and Brake - I have thought about mounting a 3rd servo to do the For/Rev on the QRC. There is space between the Fuel Tank and the steering Servo. I must make a bracket to mount a micro server and then Bobs you uncle. ;)

[-=ADA$=-]

dunno about wheels, i think if you would ask at mega force, or mad force formu, what size of hex-hub these two trucks use, cause ram uses 12mm hub, and i think that mega force wheels should fit, or get mega force hubs, and about shocks, there arent any recomended by kyosho, and im not sure cause i didnt tried them but duratrax evader, or unversal duratrax shocks should fit, theyr same lenght, and evader shocks are in hard coated version, and there are couple of springs softer or harder, also i think its possible to add third servo, im planning on doing this when new radio arrives, it should be very har, you would have to drill some holes thru chassis, to attach servo mounts, also when you use two servo desing, choose forvard brake option, not for/rev, cause when shifted to quick into revers it can eat teath from spur, also thread lock screws that mount electric motor to touch starter unit, cause it will likely fall out and destroy another gear, and there isnt possibilitie to buy gears separate you have to buy all new touch starter, forgot to ad use only paint made for rc cars or they wont stick ass good, and crack at any move of the body

[Lavdlinden]

There are 2 holes in my chassis already between the fuel tank and the steering servo. I was looking at maiking a bracket that looks like "]" so that I can mount the servo in series with the steering servo. This sould work well. I am currently running the For/Brk option and that is why I want to add the 3rd servo so that I can make use of the rev with a switch on the Radio. Thanks for all the info. My father-in-law also got a Dodge the same time I got my one but he is still building it - what colour is yours ?

[-=ADA$=-]

mine is black/non-colour ( because i used paint not made for rc, and it cracked) it was all black, adn how do you like ram?? i love this car, i recently got two needle carb, but didnt have chance to try it, well ill probably will have to get new spur gear, cause someone lost my old one, well it wouldnt be a problem if shipping to Poland wouldnt be $20 and i want part for $6 so it would be stupid if i would get part that is cheeper than shipping. have fun with your beast,

[-=ADA$=-]

could you help me and measur the distance between qrc and spur gear, especially i would appreciate how thick is the part with teeth, and distance fromqrc to this teeth part, hope youll understend what i just wrote,

[Lavdlinden]

I take it the spur gear is the one that links up to the clutch gear. I will take measurements of it. I had a look at the Traxx's clutch and it looks as if I could make use of it in the Dodge - same size - The Traxx's clutch shoes are solid clutch material so they should last a lot longer! I found a Matalic Blue paint for my RC Car (hehe)
ps. We have a long weekend so I will only be able to get back to you on Monday.

[-=ADA$=-]

well i ordered new gear set so it should arrive in two weeks, also ill be able to try new carb, and give you info if its worth extra cash

[-=ADA$=-]

hi today i took my ram on sport stadium, there is oval covered by rubber-like material, some gravel, and grass, with new carb its great for few first runs it cartwheeled at every turn, it accelerates good, and i think that two needlecarb makes difference, now im waiting to get some cash to buy engine for MBX buggy, and ill have to check which is faster, and how much, cause i made 100m speed run and it was about 13sec, not at max performance, cause if i were leaner it was dying from lack of fuel, so i richened it a bit, and it goes like hell, and its not very hot, also i have question, does your exhoust touch fuel tank?? mine does, and it melted big piece of tank, so i sealed it with silicon, and put some piece of fuel tubbing i have cut to prevent it in future.

[-=ADA$=-]

man what crash i had today, i was trying to jump on some small fun-box, jumped once, very low, second time i tryed higher, and the car fell on the ground and its now WOT, dont know how, cause i nailed the brakes, without brakes it hit the curb, wheels are now spinning like crazy, and the links that connects wheels to shock stays, fall off, so three wheels ar flat on ground and one is like it suppose to be, so i took it, and yea it hit really hard, and only thing that got broken is the fuel tank, it cracked on where the screws go, but no more damage, man its tough, but i got to get stopper to put on other side of brake wire

[-=ADA$=-]

noone reads it, but ill write it, today after reparing brakes, and fuel tank i took it to my friends yard, he hes smal pebbles, and under pebbles is clay, so first i run on high grass, and that caused the clutch to melt so there arnt c.utch shoes now, but it run after that, and then i was doing donuts on the clay, man i didnt know it can do such things, it was insane neve saw anything like this, man im so sorry i didnt videotape it, it was great, but i broke my dog bone, so i saw that it was 2wd after i run the hole tank, but it was great with 2wd, ill take out front dogbones, and when ill get cash ill order cvds, man its insane, if this engine can rip dogbones, than fantom im willing to get, will snap them in matter of seconds

[-=ADA$=-]

hi finally got pics of my ram ( though noone comes here now) http://d:\foto ram\ram.jpg

[Nitro_Newboy]

i read it, its just that i dont have a ram, but i want to see your truck, post a pic that works :D

[-=ADA$=-]

Thanks for reading #1

[-=ADA$=-]

#2

[-=ADA$=-]

#3

[Nitro_Newboy]

thats a nice truck, the viper stripes look good on the shell. and is that a biohazard sign, :) whered you think of putting that on there? and that is a HUGE air filter!!
I see i think you have the stock engine in? The GS15R?? if you have would you tell me, is it a good engine, does it really shift? its the same as in the mega force isnt it and im gonna get the mega force so im wondering whether to swap out the engine for maybe a GS21R or a O.S 21RG i think its RG anyway, or just leave the stock engine in. does it stay cool or over heat really easy? cos it has a pretty small heatsink

[-=ADA$=-]

Thanks for good words, and yea its stock gs15r engine, its great reliable engine it isnt very powerfull , maybe 0,5 hp but its enaugh, also about .21, some time ago i talked to SteveP about putting .21 in stead of gs-15r, and he said that gearbox may not handle the power, but he advised rg as "mild" .21 but i think for that price its better to get OS .15 CV-rx, or one of fantom engines they have claimed output of 1,25 hp and i think its enaugh for truck like this, but RG would be better

[Nitro_Newboy]

the OS is £119 the same price as the GS15 new, so i would not run the engine and do a swap with a OS, i will probably just keep the stock engine anyway. But i like to keep the options open :D

[-=ADA$=-]

i think its good engine but truck like this could use some more power, i think its good for begginers, its not too powerfull so its controlable, and putting os would show what truck like this can do

[Nitro_Newboy]

i used blue thunder 10% but my LHS man said thats the fastest way to wreck an engine, in a truck the engine will erratically rev and idle for a while most commonly, whereas a race car will have fast airflow and near constant revs, this is what blue thunder is designed for, and he said that for a truck you should run model technics quick fire 10

what fuel do you use?

does the 15 run hot with the small heatsink head?

[-=ADA$=-]

its hard to overheat this engine, i have run wot for 15 secs, and it was a bit hot but not too much, and i run on model techniks 20 ( 10 plus 10% nitro i added,) there is no point to go less than 20% it wont hurt your engine, and it will give good power, and the filter is good, i stick it out of the body, so it will drain cool air

[Nitro_Newboy]

thats the standard air flter? i thought it was either aftermarket or homemade

hmm, so what does the extra 10% nitro do? i was told it would just make the engine too hot, not do it any good

[-=ADA$=-]

it gives much more punch with 10% i thought the car was crap, and after adding 10% and now after getting two needle carb, i love it so much, i got this car for 2 years now, and it was on stock clutch, but after getting two needle carb, i ave to get new clutch shoes immediately(sp)

[Nitro_Newboy]

it only had a HSN? my Nitro rustler already had a HSN and a LSN carb from the shop:eek:

do you race or just bash?

[-=ADA$=-]

yea it has HSN stock, i just bash, there is no class here for ram

[Nitro_Newboy]

does the carb just hold in place with a pinch bolt?
do you reckon the TRX .15 carb would fit on the GS15R?

[-=ADA$=-]

well no, it holds on two screws that screws at the top, on both sides of carb, so it would be hard, to fit any other carb but i think it would be possible

[Nitro_Newboy]

i might have a try at it, because i dont know about a HSN only carb, ive been used to two needle, but i dont even know how much or where the two needle is from anyway

[-=ADA$=-]

yuo can check towerhobbies they have two needle carb for this engine for about $30 or less and you can fel change after first run, ok gotta go now, bye

[Nitro_Newboy]

after all i said about thinking about going to .21, i had a conversation with my LHS guy and he said it would be possible but it would be a helluva lot cheaper just to buy a .21 truck than convert a truck not designed for a 2.5 HP output engine.

i would have to rebuild the gearbox and spur and all sorts of stuff, aswel as getting mounts, and plain its just too big of an engine to fit really. so GS15R it is, i might consider another .15 engine, but that would be a way off. no money now

[-=ADA$=-]

well im not so sure about that, if you get mega force, some very mild .21 like one of megatech that are about 1,7 or less HP clutch , mounts, set of gears, and universals, it would be cheaper than most new .21 MT's and equally fast and it would wheelie at will, its much lighter i think

[nici]

Hi!
i have the beetle with the .15 engine :) according to kyosho catalogue it should have 0.9hp. i use model technics 10% and the truck runs fine after the initial problems i always seem to have with my cars :) first the the starters cogs go crap, then the metal pins on the qrc cogs dont work so ill have to glue them in place with epoxy and then they fell off so when i get home ill buy new parts with bearings for steering(sloppy as hell) and the new cogs and i can have nitro-fun again :) thinking of slamming it and putting street tires on it and a new cool body! and i think its the V-one S that also has the same engine and you can get tuned pipe and a cool blue heatsik for it :cool: dont know why its not listed in the optionparts for the qrc but i see no reason why it wouldnt fit :)

[Nitro_Newboy]

im running model technics qwik fire 16 since break in and my truck is really powerful, powerful enough for me anyway, the engine has so much power that it has just chewed a couple of spur gears up, thats set up with slipper clutch correctly! it wont wheelie off the mark but if i hit a bump or something and the front bounces in the air, it will wheelie as long as i can balance it,(not long):rolleyes:

[-=ADA$=-]

i havent broken-in my engine properly, so i have some lack of power, but the blue head will fit, and dunno about pipe, i was thinking about kyosho scale header for about $30 and good pipe, maybe CVEC, or stinger

[Nitro_Newboy]

i have only ever seen the blue head listed as a mega force part, but it will fit, obviously cos its the same engine,

what is this scale header and whats it do?

[-=ADA$=-]

Dunno about mega force pipe, but ram muffler is POS, and i was thinking about putting some good tuned pipe, but it would be hard to fit any pipe in place of muffler, so i thought about putting it so it will face rear of the car, or if i would have more money getting rear exhoust .15 or .12 and putting pipe on the other side of engine, it would add power, and scale header its a name of kyosho header that would face rear

[Beezageeza]

I am going to buy one from Tower Hobbies in the US can anyone tell me how much tax and duty I will have to pay?
By the way I have enjoyed reading this Forum keep up the chat!:)

[-=ADA$=-]

i rather dont know what tax will you have to pay, but here in Poland we have to pay 33% of tax and duty, so its rather much, but its worth, and its great truck, not much of racer, but great off roader, and maybe you could get RPM's ball cups, cause stocks are rather weak, (but they do the job), have fun with Your truck,

[ICHABOD HATE]

I'm glad I found this thread
I've had a baha .15 qrc sience
March I love this truck
I put a set of ball bearings in
when I built it
the bearing in the QRC shreaded(1 of them)
during break in.
I thoughd I got a POS
I was varry wrong
Im thinking about a two needle carb
I think -=ADA$=- sold me on that
idea.
Even without one this little
beast will do cookies all day
if I want it to. I am looking for
a better pipe .I built two myself
that work but are realy loud
so I only use them in gravel pits.
The stock engine is one of the toughist
ones I run . I'll be coming back to this thread a lot
thanks for starting it:D :D

[ICHABOD HATE]

I was hoping this thread was still
going strong.
But it is holiday time and everyone is gone or
busy anyway happy holliday's to
all you ram / beetle /QRC ,bashers
thanks for sharing your expireances (sp)
with us Later,:D

[-=ADA$=-]

Thanks alot, and same to you happy hollidays, and wishes for lot of upgrades, and lot of happienes

[-=ADA$=-]

havent see earlier post, yea two needle carb is the way to go, i see great improvement, and i dont have bearings, so i want to get them, but have to get also other things too engine for 1/8 buggy, and better pipe, i was thinking about stinger pipe, and kyosho scale header, it would direct exhoust to the rear

[ICHABOD HATE]

2 needle and tuned pipe ere next
I built my own rear exhaust
system It works well.
I took it off after reading an article
on pipes/performance.
It did give me more power
temp stayed about the same
but better safe than sorry
I love this engine .15 stock it
rocks:D
Later,
Dan

[-=ADA$=-]

well i agree i like the stock .15 but i wonder if its ABN or ABC, cause i would like mine to be sqeezed, but as i know it cant be done on ABN, and if i can get BC P/S set,

[ICHABOD HATE]

I just looked through all of the info/instructions
and mantinance paper work that I have
on the gs.15r and could not find any mention of
construction materials/ style.
I had allways just assumed it was ABC
construction.
I might half to ask around and find out.
you've got me curious. :confused:

LATER,
DAN

[-=ADA$=-]

i think its ABN as i remember i mailed Kyosho and they wrote its ABN, its not a problem since new PS is about $25 so its not too much, but i was also thinking about geting new engine, i was thinking about fantom, but thats far future, no money now!!

[ICHABOD HATE]

:cool:
I was going to write to them
now I don't have to:D
Do you think youll put a .15 or .18
in the beast .
If you go with the .18 do you think the
qrc could handle it if you were using the reverse
.
I think it would if the rev was dissengaged;)
But i've been wrong before.
I was thinking about getting an XTM.18 for mine
(like you said in the not so close future .
LATER,
DAN:D

[-=ADA$=-]

i shifted wrongly QRC wont hold the power of stock GS, thats what i did, put it in reverse, when WOT, and crack, chiped some teeths on spur, but im looking for some good engine for not much that would be about 1,25 Hp i think it would be perfect, dont know about XTM, ill do a search about it, maybe its engine im looking for,

[Ford850]

If anyone is interested, I have a Kyosho QRC Wild Dodge Ram that I can sell pretty cheap.
The truck is in good condition. It has new dog bones, new gears in the front and rear diff, and it has new dirt work tires.
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/8/61/79/59386179LPfCoH_th.jpg
Ford850@aol.com

[-=ADA$=-]

how much is pretty cheap??

[Ford850]

$85+shipping without the motor

[outfitter540]

the O.S. .12 Cv-rx would bee a good engine for this truck. its puts out around 1.25HP and anything higher would probably tear the truck to pieces

[kevin28]

ford850...What state are you in?
-Kevin

[egdinger]

great truck, will be my next, but i was wondering are there any other(longer) arms to put on it to give it a wider stance.

[-=ADA$=-]

it could be problem cause there are not many hop ups, but even if you would get longer arms, remember that you would have to heg longer dog bones, or CVD's!! have fun with your truck!!

[Ford850]

I live in Virginia, and I only want $60+shipping for the truck now

[egdinger]

i was thinking of arms and drive shfts from the inferno tr-15? or are they the same size, maybe mad force parts, p.s why the heck is this thing so inexpensive at tower, anybody buy from them?

[-=ADA$=-]

yea it is exensive, for kit without radio its a bit pricye (sp) and ill ask if TR or maga force arms would fit!! good thinking!!

[egdinger]

you ment mad force right, because the mega force is the stright axle truck, or am i confused:confused:

[-=ADA$=-]

Mad force is Axle truck, and mega force is independant suspension, ive PM question to a guy, and im awaiting if he will answer!!

[egdinger]

doh, i just found that out after i posted, plus could you use the cover from the qrc in the mega force to completly inclose the one o the dodge ram/ baja betel

[-=ADA$=-]

yea it would be cool, but i would also like the slipper, and as i know its possible to install, but now i need money on : engine for buggy, torqe servo or two, and dog bones for ram, that ive twisted!! and clutch shoes

[egdinger]

i don't know if any one checks this anymore, but i can't get my kyosho baja betel to run worth a crap. it will idle, but soon as i drive it and go to idle it stalls and dies, then i restart it it wont run and ever time i let off the thortle it would die. i think the clutch is rubbing, do i took it apart and rebuilt it, less than half a tank latter its doing the same thing. i can't do anything with this engine. i hate it. y can't it be like my old kyosho engine, i let it sit in a closet for like a year and a half, retuned it alittle runs better than my new one.

[blaneo]

egdinger:
Hey, I am here. I have a Nitro Beetle also. I love it. I had tons of problems with mine also, but persistence paid off and now it runs like a dream. I had the same problems with the throttle. What I did was open it up a bit more then what they recomended for the low idle. It will sit and idle all day if it wouldn't run out of fuel. I had to run about a quart of fuel through it before it really started behaving. It was very frustrating for me, so don't feel alone. I have a Nitro Blizzard tha has the same engine, and that thing has never given me a bit of trouble as far as idling goes. Just work those problems out one at a time, don't try to fix everything at once. Good luck. I'll be here and help if I can.

[egdinger]

thanks for the info, you ment to open up the low end needle, I don't have the 2 needle carb so that wouldn't help, if thats not what you ment, clairify. and did your tranny get sticky and not want to shift after a while. what did you use as a break in high speed needle setting? P.S. want to sell the nitro blizzard, or do you know where i can get one?

[blaneo]

:p :p Sell my Nitro Blizzard? :p :p
The only place you can find Blizzards is on eBay, unless you get lucky and run across someone selling one. I have two, an electric and a nitro.
No, on the carb setting, I just adjusted the linkage so that it open the carb. barrel a little bit more. It really helped with the low speed idle. As to the high speed, I think it is at 1-1/4 turns out, give or take. I would have to check tommorow and let you know for certain. I just played with the high speed until I got it set right. As to setup during break in, the factory recommends 1-1/2 turns out to start with, then fine tune. How many tanks have you ran through the engine?

As to the two speed transmission, I don't have one on the Beetle. Mine is one of the very first originals. I am planning on putting the 2 speed parts onto it though. Mine doesn't have alot of top end speed, but boy does she have torque. That baby can climb hills right along side of my USA-1 Nitro. Even better in some aspects. My Nitro Blizzard has the two speed tranny, I have never had problems with it sticking though. I don't know why it would be doing that unless it was getting really dirty, or if it is out of adjusment. Do you have a manual for this car of yours?
Well time for bed, I will look for you tommorow.

[egdinger]

Ahhh, not the two speed the reversing one, it sticks when my 3rd servo trys to shift, it takes a long time to when the engine is running, like ten feet, it goes forward and the bam loud evil sounding noise and and shooting off in reverse.

[blaneo]

I don't have a third channel to switch from reverse to forward, or vise versa. I just get to watch it do double flips when somebody screws up, LOL. Life is so great, may GOD bless us all. I think the trouble you are having is in the fact that you are looking at the throttle control, and the shifter control as one. They are not. You have to remember that the engine is still reving when you are trying to shift. This vehicle was made back when all this stuff was cutting edge. It is one of the cursors of what we have today. There have been so many refinements made in the operation of R/C vehicles in the years since this vehicle came out. You actually own a bit of R/C history. The Nitro Beetle was one of the vehicles that made way for other vehicles like the TMAXXX and the EMAXX, amoung alot of others. Kyosho has always been on the cutting edge. Most people think Kyosho is junk or toys. Very far from the truth, they have done more to promote this hobby then anyone else. From what I have seen, everyone else follows Kyosho. I am not knocking another company, I have bought from most of them. But they seem to wait and see what Kyosho has next. I remember back in the 80's when Tamiya ruled. What happened to Tamiya? They are sitting and waiting to see what others do. I think you need to look at your car, it's your car. It is different from mine, and everyone elses. Check out each linkage as it's own linkage. Figure out how it connects together, how does it operate independently? What do you do to it? How do you drive it? It's your baby!

You never answered me about how much fuel you have ran through it. Maybe it is time to go back to step one? Think about it? I have found that sometimes when it goes wrong, I am the one who screwed up, not the vehicle. Think about the linkage,get one with the car. I'm here for ya

[egdinger]

i've ran probably about 8 tanks through it, and i know about the tranny thing, but even with the engine off and i try to shift the lever moves and then the pin clutch thing stays then jumps like half way then jumps all they way a little bit later, it didn't do this mhen it was new. i will tare it down but i ws wondering what you thought.

p.s. i knew this car predated the t-maxx, by a few years, i wannted one so bad but my parents said i couln't have a nitro then. so i got one of the new one, with break and what not.

[blaneo]

yea I think you are right about the teardown. Sounds like something is binding in there. I have never had anything like that happen. Good luck.

[-=ADA$=-]

Maybe You know what aftermarket header and pipe fit Ram?? my old muffler fell off my engine, and im thinking about HPI RS4 MT header, and pipe, im on tight budget, but i want to run my ram!! i have also the one with brakes!! i was trying to make it work with 3-channel radio, but i got bad servos, and cant mount the servo to opperate right!! Probably drill the chassis :(, But i love my ram, after problems i had with it!! its the bestabout other parts that will it, from other companies?? i would like to get better shocks, or springs,

[egdinger]

Ada i just taped the 3rd servo ontop of the steering servo no drilling needed, just don't flip without the shell on, it will pull of the servo, i can post a pic if you want.

[-=ADA$=-]

Yea if You could, i have 3 channel radio, and ive tried to make it for/stop/rev , but couldnt put the 3rd servo!! im sure it will help!! Thanks!!

[egdinger]

here ya go ada
http://www.angelfire.com/scifi2/apex/ram1.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/scifi2/apex/ram2.jpg

[-=ADA$=-]

thats great idea, never thought of that!! if ill get my hands on some nice servo, ill put it this way!!
but now i need new exhoust, better shock springs, and today, or tommorow, im going to my LHS cause hteyve got my dogbones, and clutch shoes finally!! cause for last 5-6 months ive had 2wd, it was fun, but 4wd is better

[-=ADA$=-]

and you may want to put holder on the brake linkage, the same there is in front of fuel tubbing, but on the ond of linkage, i didnt have it at first, but after sort runnaway, ive put it there, and now it works great!!

[egdinger]

okay after much playing, I've figured out why my vars performance sucks, the engine is running lean on the low end, and rich on the high end. Is there any thing I can do to fix or help this without buying the 2 needle carb.

[-=ADA$=-]

i believe its not possible, but ive stopped playing with ram far awhile, cause my starter got broken, i dont know what happened, when ive connected the battery, it was making high pitched grinding nois, but didnt crank the engine, i will replace the electric motor, and gears, but first i want to have my 1/8 buggy running!!

[egdinger]

Ya, I've just about had it the electric starter too, why not just buy a pull start and put it on the enginge.

[Jimmy33]

what is the wheel base of the actual; body - does any one know or could you test it for me

[r.c.dealer]

I used a GWS Naro micro servo for shifting the tranny from forward to reverse. I'll post some pictures of my Baja Beetle tommorow. Setup works great for 3 channel operation.

[r.c.dealer]

Heres a few pictures of my qrc Beetle chassis with shift on the fly forward and reverse. The servo I'm using to shift the tranny is a GWS Naro micro servo. Works great! The throttle servo is used for throttle control and braking.

[r.c.dealer]

:cool:

[r.c.dealer]

GWS naro servo's are only about 13.00 bucks a pop. Nice little servo's for pulling light duty! There really made to be used in backyard fliers, but are perfect for use in this type of application like shifting the tranny from froward to reverse or vice versa! :D

I'm using an Airtronics MX 3 with novak xxxtra reciever, futaba servo for throttle+braking, hitec 645mg for steering, and GWS Naro servo for shifting the tranny.

[egdinger]

Thats got a nice low profile witht he gws servo, I need to re-adjust mine, i fliped and now it doesn't go into foward all the time. I'm using a traxxas 3ch radio :rolleyes: . What body do you got r.c.dealer? oh and have you even ran your truck? it looks so clean.

[r.c.dealer]

I've got the Baja Beetle. The truck hasn't been run yet :eek: Going to break in the engine tommorow.

[egdinger]

So howed the breaking, err break in:D go? I think I toasted my engine, stupid air cleaner was off and it fliped over in a patch of dirt, oh well Right now they've torn up the street in front of my house, so I got a bit dirt bashing yard :) :p :D

[r.c.dealer]

The break in went fine. The engine definately needs a tuned pipe. The stock exhaust seems very restrictive. Needs more low end power. I'm going to get a tuned exaust, and the 2 needle carb for this engine. I need to pull the starter off as the oneway bearing is allready slipping after a quart and a half of fuel. Other than that its a pretty sweet truck. Later on I'm going to get the 2 speed and the viscous coupler. :D

[egdinger]

Yours is lacking on the lowend, mines the exact oppsite, I'm not even through a quart of fuel and my one way is sliping like crazy. viscous coupler, what is that, and the two speed is for on road only, but if that all you do have fun.

[-=ADA$=-]

viscous coupler is used instead of center driveshafts, it transfers power to wheels using viscosity of oil, so i think it acts as a slipper clutch, and than you could use 2 speed
*edit: what woulod be cheap pipe that would fit in ram?? but i mean very cheap, with header, and how do you recognize the one way is slipping?? mine makes hihg pitched sound and doesnt start engine!!

[r.c.dealer]

The one way is slipping when the starter motor, and starter gears spin but doesn't crank the motor.

As far as a tuned pipe goes, I was thinking of getting one thats used in rc10gt rtr kits. There pretty cheap on ebay. I would however need to trim the header to get the tuned pipe to point were I need it to. The stock setup on the qrc is restrictive, and makes a gooy mess on the bottom of the chassis.

[-=ADA$=-]

Dont You know if its possible to fit 600 series motor in place of stock 400?? and whats the size of pinion, i want bigger more powerful motor, to crank the engine better, ill need new engine soon, but i want to run it to death :D and what would be good very cheap engine to replace stock?? i dont want much power i just want to to work, have compression, and be in good shape, with pull start THANKS

[egdinger]

ada I would say no, a 600 is bigger that a 540 and we all know what those are used for don't we(?), now maybe get a brushless 400 sized motor:D . I have no idea what a good replacement motor would be.

[r.c.dealer]

A good inexpensive engine to replace the stock kyosho .15 would be a megatech M16. You can get them dirt cheap, they put out over 1 hp. The m16 with a tuned pipe would be killer in a light chassis like the QRC. You will need an engine mount though. Tower hobbies has them, pretty inexpensive.

I am planning on upgrading the engine and suspension on my qrc beetle. I'm going to be using max st "pro" front and rear suspension assemblies. The arms will work with the beetle with out any mods! The Max st arms are longer so it will give the beetle a wider track which will improve its handling. I'm also going to be adding the 2 speed, and universal axles.

[-=ADA$=-]

but wouldnt it need longer CVDs to fit longer arms, and are you sure about these arms?? ive been looking for upgrades for long time with no luck, i would love them to be cheap!! Thanks, ill look at the m-16, and could you give part # of the suspension parts that will fit?? Thanks alot

[r.c.dealer]

Your right , I would need longer axles. I think the st universals all the way around would work just fine.


Heres a link to a QRC with a MAx MT suspension:

http://www.wildhobbies.com/readersprojects/frankenbug/

[-=ADA$=-]

oh thanks, hope ill have the cash and find t all the parts, cause i like ram very much!!

[-=ADA$=-]

i now have all parts needed in my cart on tower :D, but what is the size of the ball end i have to get, cause duratrax ball ends are about $5,5 for 2, and you need about 12 to complete conversion, i would like something cheaper!! everything that is needed that i know about is $140 or so with CVD's

[-=ADA$=-]

sorry but i cant edit my message cause i posted it more than 10 mins before :( but: i checked, and i would like to know if associated balls, and ball cups with turnbuckles would fit instead?? cause theyr alot cheaper!! parts @ are ball:LX2548, ball cups: LX2549, and turnbuckles: LX2919 thanks alot

[r.c.dealer]

I don't see why the AE ball, and ball links wouldn't work. As long as the turnbuckles are long enough they should work fine.

[r.c.dealer]

I just got complete front and rear Max st pro suspension assemblies. I will have to slightly modify the arms where they attach to the bulkheads. The part of the suspension arm that attaches to the bulkhead will have to be slightly filed down. Other than that, everything seems good to go. I have to get an extra set of cvd shafts for the front suspension. The max st front suspension looks like it was originally designed for a 4wd rc.

[-=ADA$=-]

where did You get it from, and how much did you pay??I would love to have the assembly, but i dont have enaugh cash. Hope youll install it soon, and that difference will be noticable

[r.c.dealer]

I got the complete front and rear suspension assemblies off ebay. These are the max st pro assemblies so they come with all the aluminum upgrade parts. They were 30.00 bucks a piece. Its alot cheaper than buying the individual parts off Tower. I only need to get another set of max st pro cvd shafts to complete the upgrade.

After I get the new suspension mounted to the QRC, I'm going to order the 2 speed, tuned pipe, and "maybe" new engine. I'll probably try to get an engine off ebay. I was wanting to get the OS .18 engine thats used in the Nitro evader.

[-=ADA$=-]

oh thats alot cheaper, i would have to pay about $130 for everything with 4 CVD's, but ill try to look for some more on ebay, maybe some are left :D, and that engine would make this truck fly, but correct me if im wrong, cause if viscous coupler works as slipper, it would be safe to jump with 2speed, as "2-speed is not recomended for off road"

[r.c.dealer]

This is turning into mor work than I expected. So far I replaced the plastic bellcranks with the aluminum ones from the max st pro front suspension.

I am currently installing the front arms. I ran into a problem with the max pro cvd shafts. There to short. I am thinking of just using the aluminum parts from the pro st, with the stock qrc arms and just getting cvds that are made for the stock length suspension!

[r.c.dealer]

I'm going to modify the max st suspension arms slightly. Just going to reposition the mount for the axle carrier at the end of the suspension arms. This should solve my dilema. I should then be able to use the max st cvd shafts.

[-=ADA$=-]

this sounds more complicatd than i expected!! So its isnt such "bolt on" anyway :D, im thinkin if MT parts would fit, i will try to get whole truck on ebay, i found one where something is broken for about $50. Good luck with conversion

[-=ADA$=-]

Im getting fron and rear end from ST for about $50 and i will probably get HPI .15 FE with exhoust for maybe a little more!! Yay
So hows the instalation??

[-=ADA$=-]

ill be putting in my ram .17 engine but i dont know what clutch setup will fit, and what engine mounts to get, and im awaiting suspension from ST :D how is the conversion going, any more problems??

[r.c.dealer]

I'm going to use a Picco xp12 that I recently aquired. I'm going to use the optional motor mount for the QRC chassis. Tower has them dirt cheap.

As far as problems goes, I kind of fudged up my St suspension arms. :eek: I have a new set in the mail though. Other than that I will be placing an order with Tower for the engine mount, and 2 speed. Hope fully I will have this finished in the next few weeks when all my stuff arrives.

[-=ADA$=-]

what happend with arms? What should i do with mine? And ill have slight problem cause the engine im getting is slide carb, so ill have to make a bellcrank, and do you know what mounts, flywheel, aand clutch nut would fit? Would all this from AE NTC3 fit i found it dirty cheap at tower. ill also get RC10 pipe hopefully

[egdinger]

What is a good inexpensive engine for this, I toasted p/s in like half a quart:mad: don't know what happend. I'm lookig for a new engine I don't really like the gs-15r

[-=ADA$=-]

i think m-16 would fit!!

[r.c.dealer]

I ordered the engine mounts for the qrc beetle from tower. The engine mount allows the use of .12- .15 engines with a normal engine type mount. The stock engine has those mounts that stick out the bottom of the engine that mounts to an aluminum plate. The engine mount upgrade eliminates that, so you can use a normal setup.


The stock flywheel, and clutch nut should fit. I think the qrc has a pilot shaft type clutch nut. I won't know for sure until I take out the engine. I will probably have to shorten the crankshaft on the Picco so that the stock clutch setup fits. I got the MIP Tmaxx stinger kit for my qrc. I also order some MAx MT suspension arms. They are supposed to be slightly longer than the ST's front suspension arms and should work without any modifications other than widening of the area of the suspension arm that attachs to the bulkhead. I should have all the parts next week to finally complete project Super Baja Beetle. So stay tuned.

[-=ADA$=-]

so the ST arms are too short? dang!! Hope MT will fit without mods! And ST can be put in?? or is it impossible?

[r.c.dealer]

Thats what I was told. The MT arms also have a different stock # than the ST arms at tower.

The st arms can be used but since they are slightly shorter you would have to relocate the hole where the axle carrier mounts to the suspension arms so that you can use the cvds from the max st/mt pro. Thats were I mest up on the ST arms, I drilled the new holes crooked :o Hopefully with the MT's stightly longer arms I won't need to do that mod. But stay tuned , when I get the parts next week I will post my results.

edit: I also noticed the dude that built the frankenbug hopped up qrc beetle used the Max MT arms, and not the ST arms. I guess I should have payed attention to that little nugget of info when I read the article. Oh well, live and learn :p


http://www.wildhobbies.com/readersprojects/frankenbug/

[-=ADA$=-]

oh yea now i see, didnt notice it either! But i got complete suspension from ST (not pro though :() and hope that arms from MT will fit the rest of ST suspension!!

[-=ADA$=-]

man im so happy now, ive noticed that i bought MT front and rear assembly, it should arrive by end of next month, but i hope it will come soner, and that it will fit without mods!! I already have .17 engine with slide carb, and ill be getting parts to fit it, and pipe from RC10GT. I cant wait to get all these parts!!

[r.c.dealer]

Cool dude.


I hope the rest of my stuff comes next week! WEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!

I'll post some details on the MT arms when I get them.

[-=ADA$=-]

but do you think that all MT stuff will work, or should i get ST stuff like CVD's or so? I hope it will all fit, ill post info when ill get it!! thanks

[-=ADA$=-]

ok my package came, the MT arms are twice as long as ram arms, but dogbones that i got are about 15 mm to short, so ill have to buy other but its huge, ill have to figure out how to mount shocks, but is cool!!

[-=ADA$=-]

the dog bones are too short, and i dont know which other to get, im thinking about for nitro quake ( or thunder) that are 92,5 mm long mega force are 95 mm long or other that are 90 mm long!! dont know which will fit!! But its really impressive!! its so wide!!

[r.c.dealer]

Do the axle carriers on your mt suspension have 2 mounting holes at each end on the bottom of them. The axle carriers for the pro have to holes one on the both ends of the carrier, just use the outer most hole. I'm not sure if I explained this right, but if you need a picture I will post the axle carriers to better clarify what I am talking about.

[-=ADA$=-]

i used the outer hole, but the dogbone is still 13-15 mm short :), with wheels installed its about 35 cm wide!! Tha dogbones i got are 85mm long and i need about 95-100mm

[joeiznogood]

finally, i have found a forum with something dedicated to the kyosho QRC, as it says in my signature i have one of the first ones with the .11 engine and no brakes.
btw i didnt know there was brakes on the .15 version? or is that just some1 who has moded it?
thnx for the info, i'll give u some links to sum pics of mine and videos.
l8r joe

[joeiznogood]

i made my own jump the other day; out of some MDF and sum planks goin underneath and then two adjustable legs for adjustable height, more details and better picture coming soon.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid78/pdcc5ca1f0db59cc1ae59fe8dcd0df5f7/fb2a42ad.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid78/p8d0c07f0622553a89026b0c3b74dd86f/fb2a42c1.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid77/p45818f30f11ae55e3d7d749a69700e3a/fb39cc6b.jpg
and here is a link to the video of me doing the jumps right here! (http://home.btconnect.com/alexandersen/movies/WildDodge400k.wmv)

[r.c.dealer]

Lookin good!! :D

The .15 version of the QRC comes with brakes. Kyosho designed it so that you can either use the brake or the forward/reverse function of the tranny with a 2 channel rc system. I set mine up to use both the brake, and forward/reverse. Works great! Whenever I get my order from Tower comes I can finally start working on modding my beetle!!

[-=ADA$=-]

i still dont know what dogbones to use, but now i have to get one piece pipe for my buggy, but summer is over here so they will be sitting on shelf

[-=ADA$=-]

i notice that stock shocks feel too, much too soft now, i would love to get new shocks, i like the gold shocks, or just much harder springs, dont you know of any springs that would fit, i mean cheap springs?

[r.c.dealer]

I gave up on installing the Max ST/MT arms on my QRC Beetle. I just used the front aluminum axle carriers, the rear aluminum carriers in place of the stock plastic ones, replaced the plastic steering bell cranks with the max st pro aluminum ones, installed the QRC 2 speed, and replaced all the bushings in the QRC tranny with bearings. I installed bearings in the diffs when I built it! I also installed the MAx st pro shocks, and crazy nut racing head in place of the stock head. I have to get a header for the mip stinger. Once thats done my qrc will be back on the road.

I'm going to save the Picco for when the GS15 dies. The aluminum parts really dress up the chassis, and add durability. I have to say the crazy nut racing head is sweet!

[-=ADA$=-]

ill still do it, its now so wide, i love it, just the schocks are very weak, i think ill get the Dtrax, but now to make it running i need about $30 for engine mounts flywheel, and nut, and 4 dogbones, i think ill use the ones from mad force, they seem to be long enaugh, and are cheap

[hooligan1]

hey all,
my friend just picked up a doge ram qrc,the truck is one of the original kits because it has the gs-11x and no brake and a single needle carb.he doesn't have a manual for it.we swapped out the dual needle carb off his v one s and that worked great so he's gonna order one of those,but is there a header and pipe available for this truck instead of that ugly manifold/mufler.stock this truck is guttless!!
or is it even worth hopping up the stock engine,maybe a engine swap?

[-=ADA$=-]

the koyhos engines are relibe, and can take a beating, but engine swap is good thought, i now have .17 (not installed yet) but stock gs-15r took long time, and many errors ( made by me) to die, but different pipe is good thought, i think pipe from RC 10 GT should fit, and you can choos manifold to fit, duuno which is good. Cool that someone else still has it :D

[hooligan1]

thanks for the tip,i'll look into that pipe,hopefully it fits.just ordered bearing kit too,those bushings gotta go!!

[-=ADA$=-]

i still dont have bearings but got to get them asap cause by bushings have too much play :D:eek:

[hooligan1]

you should get the bearing kit,it made a HUGE difference.rc10gt has side exhaust,how do u make that fit?

[-=ADA$=-]

i think ill invest someday, but now im kinda short on cash ( putting .17 inside) and ill have custom made dogbones, and kind of turnbuckles :D

[-=ADA$=-]

my ram's still waiting for parts, cause all the time i get something else to put my money on :( but someday it will happen, im planning on making racer of it, now when it has wide stance it will corner much better and should jump better too

[umquat]

Hi All,

Glad I found this thread. Just got back into RC after a long break. Was fed up of seeing an empty garage after my Porsche 912 had to go. Picked up a Kyosho QRC Baja Beetle cheaply (£30 sterling) on ebay although was not sure exactly what it was constructed from until I found this article.

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/kyosho_truck.asp

Running a light Chevy shell now (was running a Clod Buster shell when I got it). Absolute hoot to drive and still runs extremely well. I concur with a lot of what has been said about the QRC transmission, although I havent managed to get it to stand on its head yet from quick shifting. :p Am currently running in a new cheapo engine (Team Infinity 15 RTR unit) and cant wait to give it some stick once this has done.

[r.c.dealer]

Heres my QRC Beetle since I last posted pictures of it, a few small changes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/rcdealer/100_0445.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/rcdealer/100_0443.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/rcdealer/100_0444.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/rcdealer/100_0446.jpg

I added a Megatech m16 the new version, RRP maxx flywheel, Tmaxx clutch shoes, Max ST engine mount, Max ST aluminum steering bell cranks, Max ST Front axle carriers, Max ST chrome wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg tires, MIP stinger pipe, bearings, 2 speed, larger tank from the mighty MAgic wheel :eek: , Tmaxx servo gaurd, and evader front shocks all around.

More to come :D

[umquat]

Nice motor. Must get round to posting some images of mine (once I've cleaned it!) I take it yours hasnt seen much action.. its absolutely spotless with not a mark on it.

[umquat]

Can anyone suggest where I might lay my hands on the bits I need to convert my single speed tranny into a 2 speed affair? :D

[r.c.dealer]

Ehobbies still has the 2 speed kit in stock the last time I checked.

[umquat]

Thanks I just discovered this! Whilst I think about it you might be able to confirm something that has already been voiced by another party. The biggest issue I'm likely to have with the conversion is the fact that I am not running the original kyosho engine. Im now running a Team Infinity 15 RTR and am unsure whether the bell housing of the two speed transmission will fit. It has been suggested that pretty much all bell housings / clutches etc have the same dimensions. Does this make any sense? If you are running the original kyosho engine would you be in a position to confirm the diameter of both the output shaft of your engine and the diameter of the hole in the bell housing. I would like to know if the ball race from my current clutch will suffice.
Regards

Umquat

P.S. why when I try and upload images does the connection always freeze after the first couple of seconds?

[r.c.dealer]

The M16 engine I'm using is an engine with the short crank. I am still using the stock kyosho pilot shaft that screws on to the crank, and the clutch bell from the Kyosho QRC 2 speed kit. The clutch bell is the same diameter as the stock single speed clutch bell.

[umquat]

Would you mind taking a few measurements for me. They are
Diameter of the shaft which the clutch rotates on.
Distance from the back of the bell housing to the front of the gears.
If possible diameter of the bell housing

Also can you tell me the gear ratios for each gear, or better still number of teeth on the clutch and gearbox in each gear.

Am deciding whether to take the risk and ship one over from the states and would like as much info as possible before going ahead with purchase.

Regards

Gavin

[r.c.dealer]

The gear ratio for first gear is 19.9, second gear is 13.9. The 1st gear on the clutch bell is a 12 tooth pinion, and 2nd gear is a 16 tooth pinion. The 1st gear on the spur has 43Teeth, and the second gear spur has 40Teeth.

The pilot shaft take 5mm bearings, the 2 speed kit uses the roller bearing from the stock clutch bell.

The distance from the back of the bell housing to the front of the pinion gears are 13/16 of an inch

Hers a link for some more info about the 2 speed kit. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV546&P=7


I've recently ordered a traxxas nirto 4tec 2 speed clutch bell and some threaded pinions for it to replace the kyosho clutch bell. I'll keep you posted when the parts arrive on how well it works with the new clutch setup.


RCM (EHobbies) still has a bunch of Kyosho parts including the 2 speed kit. http://www.rcmodels.com/parts-depot-car---truck-parts-kyosho.html

[umquat]

Thanks for all the info. Have a retailer in the UK that reckons he can get the part from France for about £40, which when you factor in postage and import duties from the states is not a bad price.

Still cant upload images.. Dunno if it because there coming from the UK and I assume this is a stateside web page?

[r.c.dealer]

I use www.photobucket.com for my pictures. Its free, and ubber reliable.

[umquat]

Ok finally here are the pics of my slightly modded Kyosho QRC Beetle / Dodge Ram

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/umquat/IMGP0902b.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/umquat/IMGP0905b.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/umquat/IMGP0907b.jpg

[umquat]

:D Thanks for the photo bucket reference. You should be able to see my motor in glorious colour now.

Finally bitten the bullet and ordered the two speed conversion after I hit a rock at speed, dislodged the motor mount (through the tranny locking up), then after another tank (not realising the motor was out of true) discovered most of the teeth ground to a fine pulp on the input gear! Found a local dealer than can supply the 2 speed kit for just under £40 including shipment from France, (oh and Japan as they dont have any stock either!!)

I notice that your motor runs a different servo saver underneath. The stock one is a bit naff and coupled with the servo saver already fitted to the servo (from an old Tamiya model) I did wonder whether I could do away with it all together... Any recommendations?

:D :D

Oh one other thing. Do you know anyone that runs a HPI Nitro MT2 as I was wondering whether the shell would be a suitable fit. As you'll see from the pictures, the Chevy Silverado shell, although it looks quite good ( I think anyway) is not ideal and I'd like to run something a little shorter (certainly at the front) and a little narrower, so the wheels are completely free of the arches and the bull bars are outside the shell and not inside as they are now. When travelling in slight undergrowth it runs a lot easier with the shell removed.

Alas I havent had any luck finding out these details elsewhere

[r.c.dealer]

Oh one other thing. Do you know anyone that runs a HPI Nitro MT2 as I was wondering whether the shell would be a suitable fit. As you'll see from the pictures, the Chevy Silverado shell, although it looks quite good ( I think anyway) is not ideal and I'd like to run something a little shorter (certainly at the front) and a little narrower, so the wheels are completely free of the arches and the bull bars are outside the shell and not inside as they are now. When travelling in slight undergrowth it runs a lot easier with the shell removed.



Any 1/10 scale body made for the Traxxas Stampede should work fine, as well as the HPI MT2 body. The bed of the body will probably cover the guard in the back, but the front bull bar should be on the outside of the body with one of those body shells.

As far as the steering servo goes, you could do a setup similar to mine to get rid of the stock servo saver, or maybe glue the stock servo saver together to lock it so that the servo mounted servo saver only works.



What kind of wheels are on your truck, there pretty nice, I might have to pick me up a set :D

[umquat]

What kind of wheels are on your truck, there pretty nice, I might have to pick me up a set :D

The wheels as far as I know are HPI Nitro MT2 affairs. They came from a local model shop and they had all the adapters to fit various different kits including hex modifiers. The tyres are the original ones, fit quite well although they would benefit from glueing. Additionally because the rims are vented the tyres compress quite easily, possibly not the best for high speed action, but quite good for off road action

[umquat]

Heres my QRC Beetle since I last posted pictures of it, a few small changes.

I added a Megatech m16 the new version, RRP maxx flywheel, Tmaxx clutch shoes, Max ST engine mount, Max ST aluminum steering bell cranks, Max ST Front axle carriers, Max ST chrome wheels, Proline Dirt Hawg tires, MIP stinger pipe, bearings, 2 speed, larger tank from the mighty MAgic wheel :eek: , Tmaxx servo gaurd, and evader front shocks all around.

More to come :D

You didnt say what exhaust manifold you were using. I was thinking about replacing the stock exhaust system that came with the original Kyosho motor as it apart from any performance gains to be had, it doesnt mate particularly well with the Team Infinity unit that is fitted currently. Also I was wondering whether it would be realistic to switch the engine and fuel tank positions, so that a more conventional side mount exhaust could be fitted. The only problem I've envisaged so far is sorting out a throttle linkage as the fly wheel clears the chassis completely. What do you think?

[r.c.dealer]

The exhaust manifold is a CEN fun factor manifold cut down to about an inch in length.

[umquat]

The exhaust manifold is a CEN fun factor manifold cut down to about an inch in length.

How bizarre!... I have just got one of those on ebay as it looked suitable. My Kyosho exhaust split clean off where the manifold (if you can call it that) meets the silencer

The car is now masquerading as a HPI Rush Evo / MT2 lovechild!... Will post pics shortly

[umquat]

How bizarre!... I have just got one of those on ebay as it looked suitable. My Kyosho exhaust split clean off where the manifold (if you can call it that) meets the silencer

The car is now masquerading as a HPI Rush Evo / MT2 lovechild!... Will post pics shortly

And indeed here are the pics

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/umquat/IMGP0996.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a144/umquat/IMGP0997.jpg

[umquat]

Hi All,

Have any of you experience of the 2 speed conversion. I recently fitted my motor up with one, and initially when changing up, there was an obvious drop in revs from the engine at the point of change. However after a couple of tanks of fuel

a) the change up point has dropped. Yeah I know I can adjust this.

b) a groove has appeared in the gear cam where the metal arms contacts from the centre boss.

c) its no longer obvious that the gear change has occured.

It doesnt seem to be causing problems, but as the wear seemed to occur after a relatively short period of time I wondered whether this was the norm.
Also has anyone modded the gear to prevent this wear from occuring, for instance fitting a metal capping strip to this area of the gear.

Any advice greatly received. I know I can still get these gears but at about £9.50 a time it could get expensive after a while!!

[-=ADA$=-]

i know i havent visited here for long time, but didnt know it changed so much.

Well my ram is still in parts ;( (no funds), but im waiting so i can buy kyosho QRC pajero (same as RAM, so ill have all new parts), and ill revive it then, cause it was fun little car!!

[-=ADA$=-]

and one more thing, where did You find it for 30 quid?? i would get one for low price, cause it would be too much work/money to find parts for it now, and complet car would be great.
Good luck

[umquat]

and one more thing, where did You find it for 30 quid?? i would get one for low price, cause it would be too much work/money to find parts for it now, and complet car would be great.
Good luck

Was on ebay... Actually was in the process of breaking my old Mardave Marauder (they fetch silly money in pieces!) and was also bidding on a very straight Marauder that went sky high towards the end... The guy had this 'bitsa' truck (which turned out to be all Kyosho apart from the shell), which just needed some radio gear and a thorough rebuild to get it going. Absolutely no interest in it strangely so I put in a bid of £40 and it sold for £26 plus postage!! and theres my story....

[-=ADA$=-]

nice find!!
I found one beetle new in box on German ebay, and its only about 120e, but i dont have enaugh money right now so probably ill have to let it pass.
But it would make great collection car for me (qrc was my first RC).
But ill be looking around more, maybe ill find one more for nice price!!

[gmtgmt123]

Im a Kyosho Collector so far i got 1 USA-1 Nitro, Big Brute, Land Cruiser 80, Hi-rider, QRC ram, Turbo Optima Mid and a NIB Mauri Big Bear :D
here is mine with the bothers

its stock its was run very hard before i got it but now its runs very good
the engine GS11X was totaly soked in old nito and dirt but i have now cleand and painted it. it had very bad comp. but its now fixed and running strong its my fav rc :D

[GT Freak]

now WHY is this in the ELECTRIC area??