Associated T4

[GT Freak]

got my rear shocks rebuilt, and put back on, so now its RTR. :cool:

just whish i knew what caps to get 4 my p2k pro motor :confused:

[microrcdude]

dont P2K's have internal caps?

[racer234]

Hey I just got a T4 and am very happy with it. The only problem I'm having is that the front left (driver's side) shock keeps leakinfg. :confused: Does anyone else have this problem or have a solution? Thanks.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey guys!
I am a major nitro guy and I am getting back into electric to put my 3300 bats back into action.
I have had the XXXNT truck and I loved it but when I was running electric the associated t-2 was mt favorite truck of all time.
That thing is way out dated so I am going to get a T-4 here soon.
I hope that I will like it how about some responses about the good things about this truck and things that can be a little better.

[GT Freak]

well, im thinking about selling my t4, since i have a t3, would like to get a buggy (b2,b3) for it. :cool:

[Baja-Destroyer]

sell ur t4 i could never sell mine its to awesome has great speed handles great on the track only probelm with it is the battery tray is not wide enough... i cant fit my gp3300s with deans pro bar 3s in it cuz its not wide enough

[RustlerBoy]

anyone got any hot mods for the T4? I like to tinker, and cant think of anything

[Monsterbrad]

I do not know about any mods other than changing the motor to a hotter one provided that you have a speed control to handle it.
I stripped out the servo saver where the metal part goes into the plastic where it retains the spring.
Anybody have any problems like this or?????
I bought the truck used so maybe thats to blame.
Ordered the new steering arm kit for 5 bucks.
But is this something that is a problem with this truck????

[microrcdude]

no. just sounds like u have a weak steering component. Have fun when its fixed!

[Monsterbrad]

I'll try
Its been a while since I have run electric.
Really not used to things being so quiet and smooth.
Oh well
Do any of you guys now where I can go to get some advice on gearing these trucks its been a while so I am not sure.

[Silky]

Check out RC10t4.com, you can find lots of tips there on your rc10t4.

[microrcdude]

brad,
what motor are you using now, and what do you drive it most on?

[Monsterbrad]

I am running a green machine.
I would normally run on the street mostly.
I have been away from electric for so long this is all new to me again.
I do have the Chamelion sorry spelling to put it in but i have to get new tires and change the gearing.
Got my new Silverado body and new steering parts should be running soon.

[gtracer32]

does any one no if the t4 front end will fit on the gt?

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to say no with that one.
The new chassis are way different.
the t-4 has all new design and the GT is old school.
They need to up date the gt and make is wider and newer.

[microrcdude]

the T4 front end will fit, but it will take up TONS of time and will be a pain in the butt to do. I also think that it will take down the structural integrity of the truck

[Monsterbrad]

Well it just seems that it would be way to much work.
Just sell yours GT and buy a Losi XXXNT.
They are a better truck.
Sorry Associated fans on this forum but its true.
The GT is great but just old.
The T-4 on the other hand looks great to me so far.
Have my new steering parts and body back in action soon.

[gtracer32]

the way my gt is now it will run away from my buddies xxx nt with the same engine and besides it doesn't matter how good the truck is if the driver has to switch his driving style the driver will lose

[2Fast2Fury]

does any one no if the t4 front end will fit on the gt?

Check this page out...changing the front end on your Gt to T4 status.

http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=2358&highlight=front+end

[microrcdude]

Great find!

[Monsterbrad]

I was running the T-4 around after work today.
Its a great great truck all around.
Handles alot like a 1/10th scale truck should handle.
I like the extra width helps alot.
I just don't get why Associated doesn't redo the GT all together.
I know this is not the GT forum but the t-4 is a great truck the GT needs changing.

[2Fast2Fury]

Great find!

Thank you thank you :D

[microrcdude]

*golf clap*

[Monsterbrad]

Hey Guys
Anybody know where I can find info about gearing for these trucks???
Forums or anything????
I have been away from electric for so long that i am rusty on gearing.
Thanks

[2Fast2Fury]

Hey Guys
Anybody know where I can find info about gearing for these trucks???
Forums or anything????
I have been away from electric for so long that i am rusty on gearing.
Thanks

The T4 forum section of RC10B4.com has tons of different information on the T4. Just do a search, and I'm sure somehow has already covered this question there.

[2Fast2Fury]

This will get you somewhat started. Depends on what motor you will be using of course.

http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2421&highlight=gearing

[RustlerBoy]

Whats everony running? I am running a Birdman P2k with Novak GT7 and XXL, and SMC3300s..... what about you guys...

[Monsterbrad]

ok nobody is talking on here.
I am running the green machine stocker and GP 3300.
pretty quick for electric.

[microrcdude]

Im gonna get one! It will have a GM3 in it.

[rcspeeddemon]

I have a LRP Quantum 2, Reedy xcells, and a Krypton 15 turn...

[microrcdude]

how are the reedy cells? are they worth the money?

[Silky]

I use the X-Cells, they are nice. Pro-match racing makes nice cells too.

[microrcdude]

cool. Im thinking of getting new batts. the X-cells might be what i will go with

[rcspeeddemon]

I love my xcells. I like to keep everything Associated, LRP, Reedy, etc. though. Here is where I got my xcells, which was the best price I could find on-line...These guys gave me some really great service, and some free battery storage boxes with my batteries, so I highly recommend them. Shop around a bit and you can find some good deals on xcells.

http://www.allstarhobbies.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16298&cat=292&page=1

[nitro_newbie]

wat would be the topspeed for the stock t4 rtr entristed in buying also would it make a good basher/racing truck will be first rc car
thanx in advanced for the input

nitro_newbie

[microrcdude]

well, i got 2 prototypes from my sponsor!

[NeoRoBotO]

got my rear shocks rebuilt, and put back on, so now its RTR. :cool:

just whish i knew what caps to get 4 my p2k pro motor :confused:

Just ask for the basic motor caps. That's what I used on mine. Most shops only carry one type anyway.

[microrcdude]

heres some caps:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJY37&P=ML
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUE61&P=7

[jrjr]

Are the internal transmission gears in the T4 the same as the B4?

[microrcdude]

Yep, they have the exact same tranny.

[k_sw31]

Hey guys, I might be getting a T4 in some time, I've been looking into it.

Basically it would be for bashing, I'd be getting a brushless/li po setup with m2ks and the like.

What my question is for you guys is what are the most common hopups/broken parts? For example on the B4 the front hinge pin brace was quick to go, but that was partially a design flaw, and has since been fixed.

Anyways if I get I t4 I'll be running it under some stressful conditions for sure. :)

I'd be getting a team kit so I'd get lunsford turnbuckles, but is there really anything else it needs? I believe trinity and some other companies manufacter some aluminum parts, but I'm not sure whether they are necessary or not. Oh yeah, I'll definately be getting a lot of the rpm stuff, such as the gear cover and stuff.

Thanks for any suggestions on what to get

[J_Bone]

I have the team kit version (plastic body) and Airtronics FM ch72 (never cut the antenna) and when I punch it, it glitches. I have schottky diode and capacitors on the motor too!

Any ideas?

thanks

Pictues
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/Pictures/RC10_T4/5.JPG
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/Pictures/RC10_T4/Build_a.JPG

[jrjr]

Could be that the motor is arching at the brushs and causing RFI. Try cleaning the arm up. The esc could be the trouble too. Try another one and see if it does the same thing.

[jrjr]

I just picked up a T4 FT and am having some trouble with battery size. The chassis is carbon so it is conductive. I have placed thin lexan strips on each side of the tray so the battery does not short out. One of my packs I have to really squeeze, push, and wrestle with to get it in. The other one just will not go in. I have redone the bars but it didnt help. Both packs are 3300's using bonez. I am thinking about getting a plastic chassis as this is such a problem. I lined the cells up even and flattenend out one side of the bar (+) to try and save some room.

What are the rest of you guys doing to make packs fit in this truck, and does the plastic chassis have the same issue?

I will keep racing the T3 till I get this straightened out.

[microrcdude]

Just by looking at your antenna wire i think i know why glitches are happening. You need to make sure the antenna wire is as straight as possible. Right now where it exits the reciever case, the wire is all swirly. It needs to be straight.

[J_Bone]

Just by looking at your antenna wire i think i know why glitches are happening. You need to make sure the antenna wire is as straight as possible. Right now where it exits the reciever case, the wire is all swirly. It needs to be straight.

I will give it a try!!! Thanks

[microrcdude]

How did it work?

[J_Bone]

It didn't.
Damn, I did every thing I know of. Moved RX to the outer most end, straiten the TX wires, rewired capacitors and schottky diode (new ones). Even tried an older stock motor and it glitches too....all three.
ESC supposes to be glitch free.

Could the servo be glitching it? That's the only wire the runs parallel to the ESC wire. ESC run under battereies too???

[microrcdude]

What servo is in the truck now? Oh, a little trick of mine is to cover the ESC wire with a piece of electrical tape.

[jrjr]

Did you try another ESC? Also, take out the crystals and put them back in. Check the batteries in your radio too.

[Baja-Destroyer]

hey that battery fitting problem jrjr i had it too i have the team chassis so it's plastic i had to like pull the sides and bend um a bit so i could get the batt in then i left the batt in for a few days to mold it now they fit tightly i dunno if that would work for carbon it might break i use deans pro bars on my batts too mabey try and find battery bars that are completely flat i think thats the biggest problem the t4 and b4 have is the battery tray i mean thers pleanty of room on the chassis to make the tray wide enough other than that t4 rulz

[J_Bone]

I found the problem..... My steering servo is glitching it. I put the truck up on a stand and ran the throttle, then when I would turn the wheels it would glitch. So I swapped out the servo from my sedan and it ran no problem!!

thanks for every thing guys :D

[microrcdude]

Glad ya got it working! Tell us how ya like the truck plz.

[jrjr]

hey that battery fitting problem jrjr i had it too i have the team chassis so it's plastic i had to like pull the sides and bend um a bit so i could get the batt in then i left the batt in for a few days to mold it now they fit tightly i dunno if that would work for carbon it might break i use deans pro bars on my batts too mabey try and find battery bars that are completely flat i think thats the biggest problem the t4 and b4 have is the battery tray i mean thers pleanty of room on the chassis to make the tray wide enough other than that t4 rulz


I ordered the plastic chassis. That way I wont have to worry about it.I can just cram the batteries in there and race! Then I am going to test the carbon chassis and see just how bad it is. Outside of course with some old cells. If they blow or smoke, I will definately be contacting AE again.

J_Bone - Sweet! Glad you got it going. Now, run it till the wheels fall off!

[JDAWG53]

You probably have the long can GP3300's. The new GP3300's are slightly shorter and fit easier. I used a very thin foam strip on each side, it compresses when you cram the batteries in. The lexan won't compress like the foam. It is a tight fit, but they definately fit, I have both styles of cells and race my truck all the time.
Good luck hope this helps.

[jrjr]

Got the plasitc chassis and raced my T4 for the first time today. Short tight carpet oval. I took 2nd in the A main. Not too bad for the first time out. I find that the T4 is a lot more sensitive to changing track conditions than my T3 was. I had it hooked up pretty well before any racing took place. Then the touring cars ran and laid down some traction compound. Next up was trucks and I was pretty loose. Growing pains I guess!

Anyway, I am now running Strikers and am thinking about trying foams. Anyone have a source for them?

Thanks!

[microrcdude]

Jaco makes mounted foams for AE trucks.
Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCME2&P=7

[microrcdude]

whoops, rear: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCME3&P=7

[J_Bone]

Well I figured out the main problem. It's my Novak Fusion ESC. I used a Hitec 645 , a Associated servo S2008MG and a JR 590. The only servo that worked was the JR 590. The Associated was the worst glitcher!
So I took the Futaba MC230CR ESC off my old RS4 and tried it. Nothing, no glitching with any of the servos. SO I ended up swapping ESC's and now they both run.

So, be careful of which ESC you run. I've always known Novak to be a good ESC, but this one obviously has an issue.

[microrcdude]

Most of my novaks glich. Even my rooster glitched, but with a associated runner, it didnt glitch

[Greg_Hager]

Most of my novaks glich. Even my rooster glitched, but with a associated runner, it didnt glitch
Really? Quite the opposite I've seen. On my TC3 (Don't know about the T4 yet, it's on its way) the Associated ESC I ordered glitched like CRAZY, but as soon as I installed the Novak Fusion it all went away.

Guess I'll tell ya about my T4 now. :D
Team T4 Kit
2PH Radio (I have a 2PL, but it's in evidence, I'll tell ya the story later if you all want it)
Novak SS5800 Brushless
2 Integy 3300 Matched Packs (Race)
4x Epic 3000 Sport Packs (Practice)

I've got an Integy Discharger, Novak Millenium Pro Charger, and when it runs with a brushed setup, it will be a Putman Stock Motor with a Novak Fusion.

[J_Bone]

It's not a matter of the car or truck. Well for me it wasn't...It was the steering servo I had. I put the Novak in the sedan with the Hitec 645 and it still glitched. The Novak works fine with the Futaba servo (sedan) and the JR590. So it's going back into the T4 when my own JR590 arrives!

[Greg_Hager]

I didn't really think that it was the actual car, but maybe the placement of it all. Who knows. Glad to see you've got it straightend out. I've always used Novak/Futaba as my electronics. :)

[microrcdude]

I hate futabas radios. the recievers on the other hand are great. I always use my Airtronics radio with my Futaba reciever.

[Greg_Hager]

I hate Airtronics, we've had WAY to many problems out of them at the shop. Other than the one M8.

[J_Bone]

I had them layed out as best as possible. Esc on one side and teh RX on the other, I tried mounting it on it's side and all over the place. I even did it on the bench with the same results.

I like both Airtronics and Futaba. LOL I have an Airtronics Radio from 1985 that was in my old Tamiya Hot Shot. It works great still!!
It's an issue with Hitec servos. I did a lot of talking with guys at the Local track Scottsdale Raceway) and they all use Jr servos with there Airtronic Radio's. So as soon as my jr servo arrives it's going into the T4 along with the Novak esc.

[Greg_Hager]

Good to hear you've had no problems, I just didn't want to take the hassel. :)

[Greg_Hager]

FINALLY, pictures. :)

http://www.ghager.com/HostedPics/RC/18.jpg
http://www.ghager.com/HostedPics/RC/15.jpg

With the little bro...the RC18T.

http://www.ghager.com/HostedPics/RC/11.jpg
http://www.ghager.com/HostedPics/RC/12.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey guys, im actually lookin into getting a T4... bein that im in new mexico, there's a lot of dirt here... so im thinkin about the off-road scene here... i dont wanna get a RTR version, if any... but i dont need a team or ft version... do they have a race version? how long are the shocks front and rear in mm? thanks ;)

[microrcdude]

Oh, Jeez. Dont tell me your gonna put TRF shocks on it! Oh, BTW, the "Racer" is any one of those kits. At my LHS, my Team is more dialed than the "Factory Team" models.

[punkrockracer]

Hey Jbone, did you dye those rims, or did they come that way, if you didn't dye them, where did you find them?

[J_Bone]

Hey Jbone, did you dye those rims, or did they come that way, if you didn't dye them, where did you find them?

Ya, I dyed them. It was easy though. I'm going to dye the next set red.. :eek:

[microrcdude]

Whoa, then people will say "Why does you losi have Associated stickers on it?"

[TRF Drive Hard]

Oh, Jeez. Dont tell me your gonna put TRF shocks on it! Oh, BTW, the "Racer" is any one of those kits. At my LHS, my Team is more dialed than the "Factory Team" models.

Why not? those shocks are better than any shocks i have used... imho of course... if i get the shock set for the DF02 i can use those... but i need to know the exact length... ;)

[J_Bone]

Whoa, then people will say "Why does you losi have Associated stickers on it?"
YEAA!! They will be all confused! Sweet. I need to go get some soon...lol :D

[microrcdude]

Well, your gonna need to get 2 pairs of rear 02 shocks because the front has much larger shocks than the ones on the 02

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

Sorry, but I don't have the time to read the previous pages, but does anyone else have a problem with breaking rear body mounts? I'm already replacing my 3rd pair. Maybe being a little bit more considerate in the jumping would be better.?

[microrcdude]

Yes. Body mounts never break unless your doing some crazy bashing. I would also put a small o-ring or similar padding to absorb a little bit of the impact

[TheMartian]

I never broke a rear body mount in my T4... and 10ft jumps are not uncommon at my local track. From experience, the weakest T4 parts are (in order): turnbuckle cups, front A-arms(both carbon and composite), servo saver. For the last one, don't overtighten it like I did...
On the other hand I am really impressed by the included titanium turnbuckles... they took a lot of beating and so far not a single one ever broke.

[microrcdude]

Weird. We normally go through front bulkheads like crazy!

[microrcdude]

Anyone having trouble with their upper deck stripping out?

[BrushlessHawaii]

I'll be joining you T4 guys this week. I ordered my factory team T4 Saturday night. and my quantum 2 and JR RS310 receiver monday night.

I Have a B4 thats set up exactly the same. I'm gonna try and race both classes. if I can't keep up then I'll just race B4 because I love it.

[nicholcgn]

I am geting a T4 for Christmas to go with my current B4. What tricks are there for driving differences? I have purchased an airtronics 94758z for steering because I love it in my buggy. Any hints to happiness? (Stock Class).

[Baja-Destroyer]

lol i love my t4 and yes stock class is fun and ill 2nd that the front a arms break i broke mine the 2nd time i used it but i was able to ca glue it back together and its held over a year now i also broke a shock tower thats it in over a year with some crazy bashing at the track very durable truck i aslo have the aluminum front hingepin brace i think its saved my ass from some major breakings lol definately get it for any version of the t4

[microrcdude]

I must say that any class is fun when you have a T4 or B4. I love stock, its my thing, i just wish i can figure out how to win!

[rc10gtroller]

Will the B4 front hinge pin brace work on a T4? I was looking to get the aluminum one for my T4 but i could only find the B4 one on tower.

[Baja-Destroyer]

yes it will cuz thats the one i bought for my t4

[microrcdude]

the B4 and T4 use the same bulkheads. The only thing different is the length of the chassis, and the length of the suspension arms. So, all stuff like bulkheads, motor plates, and bumpers for the B4 will fit the T4.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Well tonights the Night. I hope I get everything ready to race my T4 tonight. I'm racing my B4 for sure but I hope to do both classes. batteries and charging may be an issue until I get my new ICE charger.So I can charge 2 at once. I have a super brain 969 that can charge 2 at once I just don't like doing it.

[microrcdude]

Well, charge your packs before ya go.

[Courtney]

Just got a T4 last weeks. It is an RTR and I figured I could run it for a while before anything broke. Well I was wrong the ESC glitched the first 15 secs and the truck crashed into a 2x6 at the track and broke the front a-arm. Went back and got a new set. Ran the truck for 3 minutes until it quite working. Yep the ESC was bad. Smile went to a frown real quick. Called AE and they are sending a new ESC with a self addressed stamped envelope for me to return the bad one back. Big Grin. Great costomer service. Well I broke down my TC3 and put my Novak Dually into the T4 set it up and a day later that ESC was fried. It felt like something was weird with the rear end from the begining. So I'm figureing that 4 battery pack shouldn't have had this outcome. So yesterday I broke down the rear diff and found a foreign object in the gears. Once I removed it they seemed to spin pretty good. So the few times I've run it I assume the slow speed was due to the object in the gears because my frustration caused me to order a brushless 5800 kit. OOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHH my Gooodnessssss! I've got toooooooo much power. Anyone want to trade.














Just joking. Can someone tell me what is a great traction tire for this vehicle. The tracks locally are clay. One is pretty hard packed and the other one is a bit more sandy. I want traction because I have more speed than I can handle even on the Sportsman setting since I'm a noob. I swear it is at least twice as fast as it was out of the box.

[microrcdude]

Well, do you have any links to your track? It sounds to me like for the clay you could use the Evil twin R3 compound tires, and for the sandy the bow-ties should work great.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Try a different pinion and adjust your slipper you'll be fine ;) never to much power - hehe.

ok race results from my frist night with my T4. I finished getting it ready right as the heat was beginning - no time to test or practice with it. I went straight from bench to the drivers stand. Holy crap - it's so dialed in. I led the whole race and on the last lap a dude hit me in the turn and I finished third. uggg

Finished third in the A main also. But for my first night and straight out of the box set-up I was very Pleased.

I went back saturday night to run oval with it. I could have won - but there were some drivers that needed to be in the novice class. needless to say I wasn't happy being slammed into the walls over and over in the turns.

[microrcdude]

I love oval. Too bad they dont have it here, id rule at that.

[Courtney]

Got a set of panther tires for the rear and they worked great. The RTR tires that came on the T4 didn't last long prob because I had my slipper and diff too tight. The track I drive at right now has about a quarter inch of loose sandy material on top. I rooster tail around the turns now.

I want all titanium for my truck that I can. I'm gonna get the Lunsford front axles, turnbuckles, screw set, shock mounts and pins. Are there any other parts out there made with titanium. Also there are a few parts I want aluminum that maybe someone can give me a link to.

Does someone make a bigger engine protector for the motor out of aluminum? I want it to cool off the engine better than the plastic piece on there and protect my brushless motor from anyone banging into it. I'd like one wider by about an inch to the drivers side of the vehicle to protect the wires coming out of the motor.

Does anyone make a-arms out of aluminum or titanium?

How about a body tub out of aluminum? Don't want titanium there too much flex like my road bike.

Any really trick diffs, diff cases, drive shafts?

Why are stadium trucks the only ones I've seen so far that don't have spoked wheels? I want a set of aluminum or crome wheels for my truck.

What about aluminum shock towers?

Thanks for any help with this in advance.

[BrushlessHawaii]

do you want to race or look pretty?

[Courtney]

do you want to race or look pretty?



Both :D

I have enough experience with carbon, ti, aluminum and steel with racing road and mountain bike and their benefits. Example stiffness, flex, longevity, looks, weights. With the brushless I have right now I'd like to set up my vehicle to last the long run because I figure I will be crashing alot. On the other hand when I can use ti I plan on it except when I have to put two dis-similar metals together. I haven't hear a single person discuss anti-seize when the word ti is used. I have a bottom bracket on my road bike that this would be a big issue without the anti-seize. I have found through experience that ti is a much stonger material than any of the others mentioned but is slightly heavier than carbon. The cost of some ti parts will not make it worth passing on carbon but for the pretty factor I've always loved the look of unfinished titanium. I'm really just looking for possabilities for my vehicle. I would like more sights to wade through.

Like right now I'm trying to find a set up for a bumpy/loose surfaced track but I've only found two sites that show pro's set-ups on the T4's.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Metal of any sort means weight - trying practicing and going slower build up your driving skill - it's doesn't mater how strong your car is if your hitting the boards your not going fast.

[microrcdude]

True. My B4 is completely stock other than titanium turnbuckles, just cause thats really all you need from the start.

[Courtney]

Okay so far all my damage was from some whimpy stuff breaking. Yes, I understand the concept of lighter is faster and driving skill will help make the lighter stuff last longer. So answer this question. How much will a pound added to a T4's top end, acceleration or braking? Well I bet you couldn't even state how much taking the grease out of your bearings and putting a snythetic oil in them. Really guys we are talking seconds. Yes, I can run faster times with lighter equipment but but I bet you couldn't even tell me what the weight of a specific set of tires is. That's the most important item on anything that has a rotating mass. Basically what I'm saying is a pound equals 456 grams and the difference between having 100 grams of metal on an off-road vehicle won't equal a difference of 20 to 50 grams at the end of a tire. All I was asking for was some help finding hop ups and you want to tell me to practice driving. I also want to add that no amount of practice will prepare me for someone crashing into my vehicle and breaking one of the weight weenie parts. Shoot gearing one tooth could make more difference than 100 grams on a vehicles chassy. All I was getting at is I have a motor and ESC that can handle the weight and wanted to make my vehicle look good and last while I'm learning to drive. Also I want to let you know that I had the pleasure of watching a pro dial in a X-ray nitro buggy and he even crashed once or twice and spent hours working on the shock settings and positions. Take this the wrong way or don't but stop trying to talk down to someone when you can't answer the question that was asked. Re-read my post. I didn't ask once about your opinion or how to become a better driver all I asked for was help locating any hop ups that where aluminum, or ti. Have a good evening. Ciao

[microrcdude]

Aluminum parts you want? thats what ya got! here are some cool parts to look at(Also, this is a master hop-up list for the T4):
CF Battery brace (not Al or Ti): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDW3&P=7
Aluminum motor plates(Machined w/ heat sinks)
Blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCH2&P=7
black: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCH3&P=7
Lunsford quick-tune shock mounts: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFML6&P=7
Associated Ti turnbuckles: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDU5&P=7
MIP CVD's(Option for all RTR's): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDW5&P=7
silver: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAK8&P=7
lunsford Ti Turnbucles: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFML1&P=7
Lunsford Ti Hinge pins: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFML2&P=7
lunsford Ti hinge pin/turnbuckle combo: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFML5&P=7
RPM gear covers:
black: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEZ7&P=7
blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEZ8&P=7
RPM bumpers:
wide black: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFH7&P=7
mini black(Dont mind pic): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGV2&P=7
wide blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFH8&P=7
mini blue: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGV3&P=7
Blue annodised heat sink batt strap(triniy): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFPY3&P=7
Whew, that was long. If i come up with more (Yes. ill find more) ill post it here.

[Ed237]

I have a T4 and I think its fantastic. One thing I noticed was that the stock servo saver spring was weak which caused the servo saver to be too loose resulting in some understeer and control issues at critical times.

I have since upgraded to the stiffer servo spring and that helped but I think the servo saver still decompresses too easily. For example, with my car on, I can push the wheels in with moderate pressure but the servo arm does not move.

Does anybody else feel this is an issue and if so, is there a cure?

[BrushlessHawaii]

Here is all the Aluminum and some Ti. you can dream about.


http://www.asiatees.com/index.php (LINKY LINK THINGY)

[BrushlessHawaii]

I won Tonight - Woohoo - My First Win.

[BrushlessHawaii]

I also won a snake race for money tonight - I had a great night for racing.

[microrcdude]

NICE DUDE! I just rebuilt my B4's rear end, i got the drivetrain super slick now

[BrushlessHawaii]

sweet man My new diff feels great in my b4 also.

[microrcdude]

I didnt use the stealth lube. I used axiom bushing lube, the tranny spins ultra-free now.

[BrushlessHawaii]

interesting

[Lapster]

I have a T4 and I think its fantastic. One thing I noticed was that the stock servo saver spring was weak which caused the servo saver to be too loose resulting in some understeer and control issues at critical times.

Hey again Ed. I had to install 1 more of the small shims under the spring to increase tension. I now run with a locked servo saver.

[microrcdude]

Weak servo spring? Weird, mines hard as a rock.

[Ragin Cajun]

What is the deal with the plastic nuts that hold the front wheels on? Can anyone tell me the size of the threading on the front axles? These should be the same size all the way around for all 4 wheels, correct?

[BrushlessHawaii]

no they aren't the Same size all the way around.

The rear wheels take a bigger nut.

I can't think of the size for the front wheels - I bought some little blue nuts for mine and they didn't fit so I don't wanna tell you wrong. - the Plastic nut works just fine though I race with them on every week. Had the car a year and the plastic nut still works - I agree i don't like them but they work. If I change i'm going to do the Conversion with a screw that holds the wheel on.

[microrcdude]

I believe they were 5-40. If not, get the black plastic 4-40 ones AE makes.

[beetlebz]

i THINK the fronts are 5-40, like micro said. but the black plastic 4-40 AE nuts will fit a 5-40 thread just fine. I just grab 4 or 5 bags and stick em in my screw box. they will last for almost half a season racing, and i replace em every time i change out the front wheels.

[beetlebz]

I didnt use the stealth lube. I used axiom bushing lube, the tranny spins ultra-free now.

check out dave crescenzi's diff lube. the stuff is so good i use it on ALL my diffs, and on my bolink's spur gear :)

[microrcdude]

Sweet! Ill have to give it a try. Do you know where i can order it online?

[supralative]

Some pics of my T4. Still doing some upgrades. Want to get some threaded shock bodies, graphite battery strap, and some other stuff....got the SS5800 Brushless going in real soon.
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/RC10%20T4%20Right%20Front.JPG
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/RC10%20T4%20Top.JPG
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/RC10%20T4%20Right%20Top.JPG

[Large Elf]

I've used my T4 four times at practice on a clay dirt-off road track. Stock set-up out of the box with a Monster Horsepower Pro stock motor, Novak Dually ESC, and Futaba AM receiver/radio. My run times are SHORT. Truck runs for a few laps and the battery dumps. I have geared down to a 14-tooth pinion w/87 stock spur with the same result. I bought 4 Epic Dreadnaught 3000 NiMH batteries for practice and use a Duratrax Intellipeak charger for NiMH. I usually charge at 4-5 amps. I ran 1200 mAh NiCD's on a JRX-Pro 15 years ago on carpet with a 36-deg stock motor and always had good run times. Any suggestions? Are the 3000 mAh too low for this motor? Did I buy "bad" batteries? I'm seriously considering going back to "old" NiCD technology since it worked for me.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Dude your geared super low - I bet your getting no speed at all on the straights.

My track is small and I'm still running 81 tooth spur and a 18 pinion with 3300's

you should have someone test and see if your batteries are peaking - you should be getting plenty of run time at the gearing.

[Large Elf]

Dude your geared super low - I bet your getting no speed at all on the straights.

My track is small and I'm still running 81 tooth spur and a 18 pinion with 3300's

you should have someone test and see if your batteries are peaking - you should be getting plenty of run time at the gearing.


I'm pretty sure my batteries are peaking out. They have that slight warm feeling when the peak detection charger shuts off.

[BrushlessHawaii]

what kind of run time are you getting?

[BrushlessHawaii]

also did you buy those batteries new?

[Large Elf]

also did you buy those batteries new?

I bought the batteries new off of TowerHobbies. Maybe this was a mistake. Were those batteries sitting in a warehouse for X number of years while going bad? The monster horsepower is brandnew as well - off Tower. I have also tried turning the current limiter on the Dually ESC down 100% which did not solve the problem.

I would estimate run time to be 1:30-min. to 3:00 minutes. Pretty disheartening when the other trucks (all Losi) are making circles around you and keep running much longer.

Only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere in the wiring between the ESC, motor, battery. I'm also considering buying an "expensive" racing battery from the local hobby shop to see if this solves it.

I appreciate the feedback.

[BrushlessHawaii]

can you get someone to charge your batteries on a different charger and see what happens?

[microrcdude]

My monster stock only gave me minimal run times at first, but you gotta let the motor break in first.

[Racin Rev]

I agree with brushlessH that your gearing is not tall enough. Motors develop the most torque when not turning and loose torque as they spin up. I think that you might be using a lot of current to little result. Some other things to check: are your brush hoods aligned? did you break in the brushes? is your gear mesh too tight? (i had mine go tight on me in a main after being perfect in the qualifiers and it ran like a pig)?
is something else on the chassies binding?

[BrushlessHawaii]

It's friday - Know what that means?


RACE NIGHT!!!! - WOOOHOOOO

[beetlebz]

Sweet! Ill have to give it a try. Do you know where i can order it online?

www.rc10gthobby.com
:)

[beetlebz]

first, and i have to ask, did you break the motor in? ok ok ill move on,

brushlesshawaii is right, that gearing is WAY off. winding that poor motor right out! i think 18 and 81 is a perfect place to start. 14 and 87 is.... just wow. switch up the gearing.... its just a shame i wont get to see your jaw drop when you drop the hammer on the back straight.

also make sure your motor connectors are all ok, not arcing out (im assuming youre using tamiya plugs). then take BH's advice (again) and have someone with a different charger (preferably a novak, gfx, or indi) to peak em for you. i dont think its your batteries, but it certainly cant hurt to check.

EDIT: doh! i didnt see the last page here. good call rev, check gear mesh too!

[racer234]

Hey, last night at the track I thought I had my T4 dialed (just the team kit). Then Rob (consistently 1st place in Mod truck) let me drive his MF2. Wow! That car drove soo much nicer than my T4. I was just wondering if anyone here has compared their T4 to an MF2, Rob said that his MF2 was pretty much a stock setup, whereas I spend tons of time setting my car up. Before this happened I was hardcore a AE/T4 guy, but now I'm saving up the money for an MF2; I feel like a traitor :p

[microrcdude]

Well, actually, its because of what the car has that makes it drive better. Teflon bearings, threaded shocks, Ti nitrade shock shafts, i could go on. Once you get these parts, the two should feel the same.

[racer234]

No it's not like the thing handle bumps better, it just drove COMPLETELY different, like night and day.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Ae - seems to have more steering and harder to tune - and losi seems to have less steering and be more forgiving. Losi's are easier to drive but when handling and getting a ae tuned in they are the tops. I was the only guy at my track with a b4 now we have 6 even some losi guys have converted because we were killing them on the turns

[racer234]

Cool, cool, maybe I'll just keep working on my setup.

[beetlebz]

racer, maybe this will help. I just built a new T4 team truck. it was my first venture into the team truck world, ive only had RTRs and FT trucks until now. i must that i was in AWE taking that thing on its shakedown run. it was HORRIBLE! the front sits too high and is too stiff, and it turns like a shopping cart. im going to try going a little lighter springs in the front, and maybe even down to 25wt shock oil. i already switched out the anti squat shim from the 2 degree to the 1 degree. now its just a case of finding that oh so sweet sweet spot on the front turnbuckles.

the closer i get (i ran 35wt oil up front originally) the sweeter it rides. so far if i can get more steering out of it, it will handle as well if not better than ALL my other electrics :O

[BrushlessHawaii]

My t4 is the factory team edition - everything is box stock except my shock hieght - and everyone says my truck is the smoothest on the track

[racer234]

Hey, I've worked on my truck, and it steers really well now, but it seems like the rear end is constantly not hooking.new holeshots. It's got 30 wt oil in the rear, with #1 pistons. Can anyone help? Thanks.

[BrushlessHawaii]

whats your camber set at? and make sure your ride height has the rear dogbones or cvd straight across

[racer234]

My Camber is -1*, and the dogbones are level.

[BrushlessHawaii]

what kind of surface you racing on?

[racer234]

It's hard packed dirt, and not very high traction.

[microrcdude]

Is everyone using the same tires? How tall is the rear wing?

[racer234]

Everyone runs holeshots, so I'm good to go there. I have a crowd pleazer body, and the wing is pretty small, especially compared to the stock T4 body. Either that, or I cut it wrong.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Is your Slipper set to tight? sorry for all the questions but we need to rule each thing out.

[racer234]

It might be... I'll check it mess around with it (loosening it) and see what happens. I set ALL the settings to Factory Team Specs, and the truck is handling better, I also rebuilt the diff (it was starting to feel gritty). These things have made quite a difference, but I still feel like the back end wants to sweep around on the corners. Thanks for all the help you're giving me, I appreciate it.

[Greg_Hager]

Ok, I feel like the black sheep of the family, but I'm running my T4 on carpet, and I'm having one hell of a time keeping the front end on the ground. I've got the gear I need for the track (bassiacly just a few u-turns, not a very involved track, only three jumps), but I can't keep the front on the ground and it doesn't turn. I know I prolly need better front tires, but I'm convinced the ribs will turn if I can keep the front down. Weight in the front will help that, and I decided that the best way to put weight on the front is to start replacing parts with alumnium. I've got the Trinity Bulkhead brace and bulkhead on it, that helped a little bit. I was wondering if there was a company that made almunium caster blocks, steering knuckles, and possibly A-Arms. The truck absoutly flys, I'm jumping almost all the way down the straight stretch off the small jump.

[quicksilver1689]

I just bought my t4 on saturday, its almost all put together now. It looks like its gonna be soo sweet. Its wider and i like the suspension set up. I got the Team kit because they didnt have the factory team kit in. oh well im gonna get some TI turnbuckles and some carbon parts and its done. Anyone else have one?

[Greg_Hager]

I just bought my t4 on saturday, its almost all put together now. It looks like its gonna be soo sweet. Its wider and i like the suspension set up. I got the Team kit because they didnt have the factory team kit in. oh well im gonna get some TI turnbuckles and some carbon parts and its done. Anyone else have one?
Anyone else have one what? lol We've all got T4's I'd say, mine's a Team Kit with a Novak SS5800 Brushless and a few little parts here and there. :)

[quicksilver1689]

can u give me some information on what brushless motors work good in the t4? i havent been into r/c car racing for about 3 years maybe 4. My last car was a rc10b3. what parts do u reccomend upgrading? are the carbon parts worth it?

[microrcdude]

the novak SS4300 and SS5800 are perfect for the T4. Oh, a few pages back i made a list of some cool upgrades, take a look at that.

[Greg_Hager]

Only thing I've broken on my T4 is the front bulkhead a few times and one front A-Arm. Replace the bulkhead and hinge-pin brace with alumnium parts and you're ready to go. As for the brushless motor question...I really can't answer that becuase all I've run is the SS5800. I'm sure there's someone outthere that has more brushless experience than me.

[racer234]

Hey, I constantly (well like three times now) break off the ball stud on the rear chassis brace. I swear its the most tedious part to replace on the truck. Do you guys have any tips on preventing the studs from snapping? Oh, and I know I should learn to drive better, so dont waste your time with that :p

[BrushlessHawaii]

Hey, I constantly (well like three times now) break off the ball stud on the rear chassis brace. I swear its the most tedious part to replace on the truck. Do you guys have any tips on preventing the studs from snapping? Oh, and I know I should learn to drive better, so dont waste your time with that :p

Yeah I've broke them on my B4 and My T4 - I now have Lundsford Long Titanium Ball studs back there. They are longer and stronger than stock. Oh and wow they are pricey. LOL

Losi Also makes long TI ball studs so price check around and go with which ever is cheaper for you.

[Craps]

I use Mugen MST-1 captured ends and balls on mine with washers over them, so they can't come off.

[racer234]

Alright, I was thinking about getting those titanium ones, so I think I'll just go that route. Thanks.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Hi guys. I'm gonna get one of these T4 RTR SE trucks to start racin with. I'm gonna sell my dearest Rustler to buy this truck. I've seen it in action and it kicked butt! I just wanted to know what are the first hop ups that i should purchase for the RTR. I know that it doesn't have the hard anodized shocks and it has dogbones instead of CVD's but thats fine with me. So what should i buy to make this truck the best racer out there???

Thanks GOD BLESS!!!

[BrushlessHawaii]

Hi guys. I'm gonna get one of these T4 RTR SE trucks to start racin with. I'm gonna sell my dearest Rustler to buy this truck. I've seen it in action and it kicked butt! I just wanted to know what are the first hop ups that i should purchase for the RTR. I know that it doesn't have the hard anodized shocks and it has dogbones instead of CVD's but thats fine with me. So what should i buy to make this truck the best racer out there???

Thanks GOD BLESS!!!

Lots of racers are switching their cvd's and going to a rear dogbone set-up - so you'll be ok. I've had problems with cvd's coming undone and thought about switching. I also hear the Dogbones give more side bite for turning.

the #1 upgrades I recommend are an aluminum hinge pin brace and Ti Turnbuckles - everything else is race ready. In the future you may wanna go with the adjustable shocks - but no need right off.

[BrushlessHawaii]

PS.

Dusty's tip 'o the day

Keep extra Parts especially A-Arms in the tool box at all times ;)

[Greg_Hager]

A-Arms and Caster Blocks. lol :)

[quicksilver1689]

yeah i just got mine running im gonna invest in some good old trusted lunsford hinge pinks and turn buckles. I need some tires that i can mess aroud with proline holeshots just dont last on the road lol.

[Greg_Hager]

Amen to that, I killed my holeshots on the first day outside. lol The Snake Eyes lasted a little longer, but neither one lasted real long.

[quicksilver1689]

yeah prolines racing tires dont last on pavement lol. Dirthhawgs and roadhawgs worked well for f'in around.

[quicksilver1689]

Help! lol i havent raced r/c cars in years like i said earlier. My shocks squeak and arent the smoothest. i didnt use green slime but i went to the hobby store and bought some. Will it help? I think its leaking from the O rings? I havent built associated shocks in years so i forgot the tricks to makin them work good.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Help! lol i havent raced r/c cars in years like i said earlier. My shocks squeak and arent the smoothest. i didnt use green slime but i went to the hobby store and bought some. Will it help? I think its leaking from the O rings? I havent built associated shocks in years so i forgot the tricks to makin them work good.

I had problems with some of my red o-rings like a few were to soft and compressed to much take your shocks back apart and make sure your orings are ok and not ripped

[Greg_Hager]

I chipped an o-ring when I put my shocks together, check that, just like BrushlessHawaii said. :)

[beetlebz]

ive been hearing that the MIP blue o rings are the ticket for associated shocks. i havnt tried them yet though. i just saved the squirt bottle that was full of 30wt oil when i got the truck, and filled it with 25 wt oil for assembling the shocks. when i assemble the seals on the tool, i douse liberally with 25wt oil, then seat the seal in the body. a hard whack on somthing firm with the butt of the shock tool makes them seat nice. then, i squirt a bit more oil in the shock body and let it drip out the hole. then put in the shaft and fill!

works like a charm!

[supralative]

What weight oil are you guys typically using in your shocks. I want the truck to bottom out less, but dont want to run the stiffest springs either to compensate for that.

[jjmag26]

Hi all, I just got a rtr t4 and I bought this motor http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGX1&P=7 to go with it. Can someone help me out and tell me what pinion to start off with. I have the stock spur gear. Thanks in advance.

[BrushlessHawaii]

Hi all, I just got a rtr t4 and I bought this motor http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGX1&P=7 to go with it. Can someone help me out and tell me what pinion to start off with. I have the stock spur gear. Thanks in advance.

depends on your track - is it small? large? loose? high bite? etc...


I keep pinions 15 through 24. I'd prolly try a 19 or 20 and work up or down as needed for your track - I'd ask the other racers with t4's what they are using

the lower number means more punch and torque - the higher number means more top end speed.

[BrushlessHawaii]

What weight oil are you guys typically using in your shocks. I want the truck to bottom out less, but dont want to run the stiffest springs either to compensate for that.

I'm running 30 weight - box stock setup for the ft-team truck - except for my shock ride height - and I have one of the smoothest trucks at the track.

[supralative]

I'm running 30 weight - box stock setup for the ft-team truck - except for my shock ride height - and I have one of the smoothest trucks at the track.


thanks

what color springs are you running i am gonna switch to the green springs
right now its got the silver and 27.5 weight oil this is in the rear
the front is not too bad
blue springs 27.5 oil

[iheartskins]

Do you guys think an old T2 would still be competitive or should I update and get at T4 FT or MF2?

[BrushlessHawaii]

Do you guys think an old T2 would still be competitive or should I update and get at T4 FT or MF2?

Depends on how good you can drive, but I would say a newer truck would have a slight advantage. I love my FT-T4 and my B4.

[iheartskins]

What kind of advantages are we talking about? Slight speed advantage? Better turning?

[microrcdude]

Everything. Lighter, faster, the whole 9 yards.

[iheartskins]

That's what I was thinking microrcdude...looks like I'll need to upgrade (and practice a lot) to compete. Thanks for the help.

[BrushlessHawaii]

That's what I was thinking microrcdude...looks like I'll need to upgrade (and practice a lot) to compete. Thanks for the help.

go run with yours and see - no since spending the dough if your spanking butt - it's all in the driver ;)

[TurboFC3S]

it's all in the driver ;)

You got that right! I've been trying to dial in my T4 over the last week or two ... at first it did have a lot of things wrong since i got it secondhand. Things like turnbuckles being way different lengths left to right, diff too tight, etc. It helped a lot getting things right, but still it IS ALL driver.

After a couple years of Touring Car racing, I thought dirt would come easy. But I was wrong, it's a totally different world.

[TMaxxBenny25]

YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got a T4 SE!!!!! I plan to get a faster servo and some all terrain tires!! I love the speed!!! ITs AWESOME!!!!!!!!

[quicksilver1689]

yeh faster servo will help alot when racing. I put a futaba 9404 into my truck when i first got it. I think they dicontinued this servo but its super fast like .11 or something metal gears, coreless motor.

[Greg_Hager]

Good servo?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH305&P=7

[TMaxxBenny25]

Try this one. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=ML my friend buggyman has one. Its fast and strong.

[Greg_Hager]

It's half as slow. ;) Trust me, I know. lol I've got one in my T4, and while it is a great servo, I just need faster for my T4 and B4. :)

[microrcdude]

Get the coreless. Much better than the one Ben said.

[Ed237]

I'm using this one and think its great: Hitec 925 mg

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNZ33&P=7

[TMaxxBenny25]

One of my bullet connectors broke. I took it to a shop to get new connectors but the guy there said he would hard wire it for me. It works great and its now mounted on the shock tower.

[microrcdude]

If you get connecters again, get deans connecters. They have super-low efficiency, i run them on all my cars.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Yeah. Buggyman17 got them on his b4. I should know because he put them on at my house!

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I've been thinking about buying a T4 or evader and putting dirt hawg tires on it just to bash around the yard and on gravel and pavement. Do you guys think a T4 or evader could handle short grass with dirt hawg tires and the right gearing? Or, do you think it just lacks the ground clearance to be a decent play truck around the yard???

[ILuvMyB4]

get a T4 and it will be the basher of your wildest dreams. i love bennys T4 and i love my B4 and they are both GREAT bashers.

im a DIE HARD BASHER!

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Me to... I don't have enough sence or money to race. I've been bashing hard for 15 years. Alot of people think that if you don't race, you don't take r/c seriously. I take it seriously ( understatement ). :)

[ILuvMyB4]

im bashing hord still but im still going to start racing. i hope to get some FT parts to make the B4 im going to be racing with faster and stronger. :D

LOTS OF FT PARTS! :p

[Greg_Hager]

May I suggest FT Turnbuckles? I've bent two Team Turnbuckles, and not one FT one since I've upgraded.

[BrushlessHawaii]

May I suggest FT Turnbuckles? I've bent two Team Turnbuckles, and not one FT one since I've upgraded.

they are a must. and so is the hinge pin brace

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I have another question.... when I use to have a T3 sport and it came with dogbones, at one point I upgraded to cvd's but it required different sized bearings and maybe even different hub carriers (can't remember that last part for sure). Is that the case with the T4's too?

[BrushlessHawaii]

I've been thinking about buying a T4 or evader and putting dirt hawg tires on it just to bash around the yard and on gravel and pavement. Do you guys think a T4 or evader could handle short grass with dirt hawg tires and the right gearing? Or, do you think it just lacks the ground clearance to be a decent play truck around the yard???


Evade the evader

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=evade

[tamiya4x4dryver]

yeah, I am..... already set on the T4, just need to sort out which version

[BrushlessHawaii]

Factory Team or RTR - if you can do it FT is the way to go.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I got my RTR and put some dirt hawg tires on it! Its awesome!! I took it to the track today at (CApital RC Center. IT was AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tamiya4x4dryver]

financially I can do it, but I'm just going to bash with the thing. I'm going to put some dirthawgs on it and use it for pavement, short grass, and some dirt, and some gravel. While I'd love to have the threaded shocks and the better bearings the factory team comes with, and the better turnbuckles and things... I fear that the carbon chassis and other parts might not take the abuse from some of the weird surfaces I bash on. am I right or wrong??? The money's not a problem for the factory team and in my opinion, it's a way better deal.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

by the way, meant to add that the team version is what I currently going to buy unless you think the carbon can take the bashing abuse. i'm getting a kit either way, no rtr's for me. I've been building kits for 15 years.... I'm old school, lol

[beetlebz]

the plastic will definitely take more abuse. maybe not a TON more, but quite a bit. I plan on racing my team kit, and so far so good. most of the bearings im going to be replacing alot ANYWAY, the only real bonus' would be the the carbon and the threaded bodies. So, i saved a few bucks. when i break parts, ill go to carbon :)

the plastic chassis is no joke though, really nice stuff.

[Greg_Hager]

Only things I'll take off the FT kit are the Turnbuckles, shock bodies, and the battery strap. :)

[TMaxxBenny25]

My RTR kicked BUTT on the track. I beat a brushless Duracrap Evader ST by a long shot. I had soooo much fun! RAcing is kicka$$

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Okay thanks. Got another question for you guys.... I have some spur gears that are still new in the package from when I had my T3. they are Robinson gears, I think the absolutes and the stealth pro's. Is there a way I could use them on a T4? I see the T4 uses some funky spurs with a hex molded in to accept the new hex shaped slipper pads. If I have T3 spurs and slipper pads, can I use them on the T4 with the T4 slipper plates and other clutch parts or has some of that changed too?

[ILuvMyB4]

i would jsut go the safe way and buy a new spur if thats what you need. what do you need a new spur for? did you strip it?

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Like I said.... I have alot of new in package gears and I want to know if they will work.... maybe I'd like to use them sometime. I don't see the sense in spending money on more gears if these will work, I guess was the point of my post.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Dont listen to iluvmyb4. When we were at the track and he broke 2 a arms becuase he didnt have a hinge pin screw i asked y he didnt just buy one and he said because he didnt want to. Any ways yes if the gears are the right pitch they will work.

[ILuvMyB4]

shut it ben. dont put words in my mouth. i didnt say that. it was because i didnt want to spend anymore money because it would hav to come out of your dads wallet just like your T4 and my other pair. ive already ordered them anyways....
stupid screws.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Dude, i asked u in the car and that was what u said. So w/e. I hope i can go to the track again. It would be fun if u wouldnt hog my stand. ill go alone next time. I dunno it was better if u would have spent like 3 bucks just to save my dad 7.

[tarvymoto]

Guys, I don't think anyone on here wants to here your bickering. Get back to using this forum for setups, technical info and gereral T4 feedback. :o

[TMaxxBenny25]

What gearing should i go with for a P2k2 stock motor. Im using the stock RTR SE spr gear. Thanks!

[vegasdrift]

Does the esc on the SE T4 have reverse lockout? The T4 SE has a ball differential, right?

[TMaxxBenny25]

Ball diff yeah but i dunno about reverse.

[ILuvMyB4]

thats interesting...
i would google it.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Or go to LRP's website.

[vegasdrift]

ok, I'll try those

[ILuvMyB4]

if it was an LRP it would probably say right on the ESC case.

[FRANKIECMGT]

there is no reverse lock out on that esc vegasdrift....

[vegasdrift]

Thanks for the info.

[FRANKIECMGT]

Glad I Could Help You Out.....

[Marburg]

Hey fellas, I just got T4 Factory Team and was wondering if there are any tips and tricks that I should be aware of before I build. Any help would be appreciated.

[Ed237]

Yes, You will want the heavy duty servo saver spring if your kit doest come with it already.

[supralative]

there are some tips in an old RC Action Mag like a month or so back
give some tips on building the AE stuff
pretty good
i went back and did a few of things here and there

[Marburg]

Can you tell which issue so i can check it out?

[TMaxxBenny25]

April 05.

[ILuvMyB4]

That little article on build tips is awsome. some of the things help quite a bit!

[vegasdrift]

What's the stock ground clearance of the t4 SE?

[microrcdude]

About an inch.

[T4Maxx13]

I LOVE MY NEW SERVO!!! My friend and i were jumping and runnin a our cars and it worked like a charm!

[ILuvMyB4]

what servo? i have a hitec 625mg and i love it. it works great for me.

[microrcdude]

I used tuned 625MG's. I modify them so they response better and are more durable(more runs before it needs maintinence)

[ILuvMyB4]

I will probably do that when I start racing. For now its fine for just bashing around in the front yard. Its a great servo stock.

[T4Maxx13]

625 Mg is what i have.

[BrushlessHawaii]

I run JR Z590m Servo's

[T4Maxx13]

How much torque do those have at 4.8 v becasue i think they have 85 at 6

[T4Maxx13]

WEll. Went to the track yesterday. HELLA FUN!!! I did pretty good only broke a suspension arm and a bulkhead. It was awesome tho.

[microrcdude]

LOL a suspension arm? ive had the same pair for a year, 7 years on my other car.

[T4Maxx13]

I ran into a steel pole at like 20mph

[redsixer]

I am looking for a good street tire to run on my T4 when Im bashing around the house. I have been using hole shots that are too worn out to race with anymore, but I want something to grip the street better. What do you guys recommend?

[T4Maxx13]

I use dirt hogs and they r great!

[X to the Z]

Hey, is it normal to bottom out when landing a 2-4foot jump? Im used to touring cars and the t4 is my first stadium truck. I thought that it would take 2-4 foot jumps without any problems. Im running the stock shocks with the stock springs.....i believe they are green and 40wt oil.

[microrcdude]

No, try stiffing up your suspension with the kit included spring spacers.

[gizmoguy303]

Stuffing preload spacers onto the shock will not adequately stiffen the spring rate and will basically just raise the ride height.

If you are racing on a track, I would stick closely to the stock setup, since changing your truck so it does not bottom out will affect other handling characteristics that are felt throughout the rest of the track.

If you are bashing around in the yard, there are multiple ways to prevent bottoming out. Try putting #2 pistons in the rear or switching to 40wt oil (the stock oil is 30wt). If you are still bottoming out put in stiffer springs (Associated's website has a spring chart).

Bottoming out is normal. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are planning on going off of some serious jumps. If you are racing, ask other T4 racers what setup they are running to get a good idea of how you need to set up your truck for optimal handling around the track. You may still bottom out, but sometimes that's just what happens when you don't downside a jump just right or land a jump flat on the ground.

[BrushlessHawaii]

I sold my Factory team T4 guys. :( But i still have my b4 to Race and - I bought an rc10gt - Oh yeah

[microrcdude]

Id say a good trade. For a while i thaught i would have to beat ya up. Whew. lol

[oggydog]

So on a scale of 1 to 10 just how much better is the T4 vs the T3 I am looking at the FT cause after I got the T3 team kit updated I bought all the stuff the FT had so I won't do that again.A little help would be great so should get the T4 or stick with the T3.

[microrcdude]

10. the car is so much easier and faster, difference is night and day. Also, its alot easier to set up and tune.

[oggydog]

Well I lied I did not go FT I got the RTR for now I can upgrade when the $ $ $ is there I needed a cheap radio for my TT-01 so I am going to swap radios when I get the truck should be here Friday can't wait