Associated T4

[microrcdude]

first thing. Get an RPM wide front bumper, saves you so much money in the long run.

[crazyjr]

I have a T3 that I have had for 3 1/2 years ,very tough and reliable and fast ,but I just bought a T4 tuesday. I have already changed the radio(I hate AM) Changed the motor and esc(I hate stock) and changed the steering servo(Clipped tire on real truck in less than 30 sec.of 1st run,besides i hate stock like I said)looking foreward to many good years with this one(till the T5 comes out).

[microrcdude]

so what is the new equipment? Dont leave us hangin!

[crazyjr]

Sorry about that.tring to rember as I type,the only problem is I can`t type.anyway the new stuff at this moment is a futaba mag. jr FM radio,novak dually esc,trinity 10X3 speedgems motor and hitec 625MG servo.Maybe going brushless soon

[microrcdude]

lol. i think everyone in this thread has a 625-MG. thats so cool.

[crazyjr]

Yeah I wanted more torque but was all I had at the time

[oggydog]

10. the car is so much easier and faster, difference is night and day. Also, its alot easier to set up and tune.

Thanks a lot for the info I would have to agree on the score of 10 the truck is a lot more stable then my T3..Me and 4 of my buddies get together and race at the ones house on saturdays. not to many big tracks close by so at one time we all had tracks mine needs weed killer and a lot of work. This past year we did'nt race any just bashed with the e-maxx's. So this year we decided to dust of the race trucks.Back then I might have won 20 races all year. Just today I managed to pull out 6 wins with the T4. 1st race I noticed I needed more off the line I droped to an 18T pinion and tightened the slipper a little. I noticed a lot of improvement. Next the stock RTR tires had to go so I put on a set of hole shots track was getting real loose and 8 rib fronts for more up front bite and that was all she wrote I was flyin' :cool:

so to stop boring you guy's the T4 is one awesome Truck and thanks again microrcdude cause if you scored it less then a 7 I would probaly not even know what a T4 was capable of.

:Drubbin' is racin' but you have to keep up:D

[Jackyl]

Hey guys, I've read most of the pages. I currently have an evader ST. It's kinda cool that it's actually a losi XX-T. and it actually has hop up parts instead of just graphite parts and that's it. Dtx and gh both make aluminum parts for this truck, arms,bulks,towers,ect.... and the titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles look like they are lundsford but cost half as much as the ones for the T4.

I use to own a FT T3 back in the day, I had it for 2 years and it was solid never broke anything, just bashed with it.


I'm trying to decide if I should sell my evader and get a T4 or just keep my evader. I see that you guys bashed on the evader a few threads back. But it's cost effective.

I would really like to see a evader pro vs T4 FT go at it.

Is that T4 really that much better than a losi xx-t I mean evader ST? I plan to race this time around and could use some truck comparisions.

[Ed237]

I used to have an Evader. It was a good, reliable fun truck. But its based upon a 10 year old design. There is no way (all other things being equal) that an Evader can beat a T4.

The RTR T4 is only about $60 more than an Evader. Just get the T4. You wont regret it. Especially if you are racing. AE has a great web site and some set up sheets that will have you dialed in fairly quickly.

[oggydog]

Hey guys, I've read most of the pages. I currently have an evader ST. It's kinda cool that it's actually a losi XX-T. and it actually has hop up parts instead of just graphite parts and that's it. Dtx and gh both make aluminum parts for this truck, arms,bulks,towers,ect.... and the titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles look like they are lundsford but cost half as much as the ones for the T4.

I use to own a FT T3 back in the day, I had it for 2 years and it was solid never broke anything, just bashed with it.


I'm trying to decide if I should sell my evader and get a T4 or just keep my evader. I see that you guys bashed on the evader a few threads back. But it's cost effective.

I would really like to see a evader pro vs T4 FT go at it.

Is that T4 really that much better than a losi xx-t I mean evader ST? I plan to race this time around and could use some truck comparisions.

Well I had an evader st not a bad truck but a real pain to work on unlike the T3 or T4 the evader has a lot of braces above the servo and it took a while just to change the servo and I changed it a lot.then I got a T3 team kit updated it was 10 times better then the Evader handled a lot better easier to work on and then I got the T4 RTR it really rips with the 2.6:1 trans ratio. Easier to setup and it is 10 times better then the T3

You would not even need a T4 FT to go at an evader pro just the T4 RTR would take care of it...As far as racing the T4 RTR would work and if you have a budget you can get the Carbon Parts Set later or if you got a radio and esc the T4 FT is the way to go.I went RTR and am going to slowly upgrade to a T4 FT. RC car action had an article on the T4 RTR SE vs. the XXX-T RTR 2 it was a tie but they said if racing the T4 was the better truck stiffer parts the only real good thing on the xxx-t was the XR2i. I did not even use the radio the T4 came with I put in in the T3 but now I got an XR2i on the way my Futaba 2PL glitches way to much I have a new set of Performance Devices crystals on the way to try in it.The xr2i will go in the T4 and the 2pl in the T3.

Anyway you get the T4 ,team kit ,FT kit or, RTR you will be happy with it...

As for my evader I sold it to my nephew and now he what's a T4 go figure.

[Jackyl]

Well I've had my T4 for a couple of weeks now, I upgraded the motor to a team orion 12x2 and it's running 86t/22t gearing and I have a JR metal gear servo in it. It's a awesome truck, hands down better than the Evader. I'm only missing a few parts and it will be a full FT. but in it's current state "team" it's a killer truck. I really like the dual pad slipper setup. and the caster in the steering assembly. :D

[microrcdude]

all of associateds vehicles are TOP NOTCH. So easy to tune and everything.

I love the dual pad slipper, but i miss being able to change a gearset in less than a minute like on the B3 and T3

[Jackyl]

Yeah, the easiest one to change the spur on has to be the evader, then the T3/B3's. It's a bit tricky with the T4/B4. but if you glue your pads to your spur's then you don't have to fool with the bads. just a very very small drop of ca will hold them in place.

[Jackyl]

Has anyone put a B4 body onto their T4? If so what did you have to do to make it work ?

[microrcdude]

yeah, but the body fits real weird due to the longer chassis. it will requre you to cut out the sides of the body, and it really messes with the strength of the body.

[Jackyl]

How much long is the T4 chassis over the B4 chassis? I think that it would be slick to have a buggy body on the truck :D

[ProMatchRacing]

When I race my T4 at the track I keep striping the ball stud out of the front left steering block. This is partly because of my crappy driving but it's happened about 3 or 4 times so I was wondering if there's any way I could prevent the ball stud from striping out (besides driving better lol) and make the part stronger or something.

Thanks

[Jackyl]

Buy the aluminum part. They do not label them for the T4's but it's the same as the B4. T4 aluminum front caster blocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEUB3&P=7)

If you really really want to make sure that the rod pops off and the ball stays put, just red locktite the ball threads and then thread it all the way into the caster block :D Then let it dry. and next time you run your truck you'll break something else :D But that will not break !!!

[ProMatchRacing]

Thanks but it's not the caster blocks I was breaking. I was striping the ball studs out of the steering block.

[Jackyl]

If your referring to the this part. Then just get balls with longer threads and put a nut on the backside.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascc9581.jpg

[MetallicLlama]

I'll have to give that a try. Also what do the white washers do that you put under the ball stud? Do I really need them?

Thanks.

[MetallicLlama]

Sry used other pc, still Promatch.

[Jackyl]

Those make it so that the ball sits higher and doesn't bind as much in the cup when the arm in at it's lowest point.

[Jackyl]

Can anyone tell me if there is a lenth differance between these 2 chassis?

B4 Chassis
http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/58/57696/ae_b4_ft_chassis.jpg

T4 Chassis
http://images.marketworks.com/hi/58/57696/t4_ft_chassis.jpg

I really want to run a B4 body and wing on my T4. I just think that it will make it a better vehicle. handling and keep everything lower aerodynamically.

Has anyone tried this ? Does it work? Or has anyone put T4 suspension on their B4?

[microrcdude]

buy a B4 chassis, battery strap, body, and rear shock tower and you can have that buggy look.

The top chassis is for a B4, bottom for T4

[Jackyl]

I thought that the T4 battery strap would work on the b4? So chassis, body, shock tower. ChecK

[microrcdude]

you may have to play around with the front to make a body mount. the B4 has a screw that comes out the front bulkhead.

[dirtguy90]

idk, just a random...i mean random Q that noone will prolly know the answer too...does nebody know if/when they're gonna come out with a "t5" or w/e they're gonna call it??

[Baja-Destroyer]

prolly not any time soon the t4 is what around 2 year old design and ae is kinda slow with new models the tc3 was used for what 6 years and they're still using the rc10gt i wouldent expect a t5 for awile at least i hope cuz id have to get a t5 to be my t4s friend lol

[Jackyl]

If losi comes out with a xxxx-T then I'm sure AE would follow suit and come out with a T5. The tc3 is old and the new one is called the tc4 so I'm sure the new truck from ae would be a T5. All I ask "AE you listening" Lets keep this IN THE GOOD OL' US OF A!!!!!!! I don't like the fact that the Monster Gt and Rc18T are thunder tiger products rebadged as AE. Or something about molding usage or something like that. I'm pretty sure that the T4 was an american design and that truck is made in usa. Isn't it that the AE kits are made in usa but the RTR's are like assembled in mexico or something. I don't know what is worse mexico or korea. :eek:

[GT Freak]

im waiting for the "hoverT" to come out next. It runs like a hovercraft. Sheesh. :rolleyes: Im still running a tc3 and t3. dont need the latest thing out. just a waste of money to me

[Jackyl]

I'll second that, buying used is also a very good idea.

[chilly4kc]

If losi comes out with a xxxx-T then I'm sure AE would follow suit and come out with a T5. The tc3 is old and the new one is called the tc4 so I'm sure the new truck from ae would be a T5. All I ask "AE you listening" Lets keep this IN THE GOOD OL' US OF A!!!!!!! I don't like the fact that the Monster Gt and Rc18T are thunder tiger products rebadged as AE. Or something about molding usage or something like that. I'm pretty sure that the T4 was an american design and that truck is made in usa. Isn't it that the AE kits are made in usa but the RTR's are like assembled in mexico or something. I don't know what is worse mexico or korea. :eek:

AE designs the trucks but they are built somewhere else. This is what a lot of companies do anymore in the states. The designing and innovation might be done here, but the actual parts and labor is done somewhere else for cheaper.

It's hard to afford anything really "made in the usa". Look at the price of a GM, Ford, or Dodge.

[microrcdude]

no, funny thing is, there was an advertisement out like in the 90's about the dodge D-50(Or something like that) truck, and it was "Made in USA." However, when you open the hood, on the vin plate, it says "Made in Japan" because the trucks were built by mitsubishi

[guver]

Can someone here (in this forum) please do me a favor and check the length on the battery compartment? thanks

possibly see if 8 cells will fit? or get me a measurement? thank you.

[microrcdude]

Not enough room for 8 cells, sorry

[guver]

thanks again.

[jonski]

Just to let you guys know, I am selling new FT T4 parts in the for sale section...great prices, check them out.

[2fast2slow]

Has anyone ever run a Neo One and 8 cells

[bandit72577]

If anything we will see a upgraded RC10GT before a T5, AE has a habit of sticking with a desgin until it is beginning beaten nationally. And the T4 is still winnung races and awards. It is definalely a great truck, wouldn't trade mine for the world.

[jonski]

It's funny that you think because a truck is "still winning races," that they won't replace it. That has nothing to do with it. It's all marketing. The first rule in economics is that every company is in business to make money. AE and every other company will introduce new stuff, once they feel like their sales are starting to decline. Do you really feel that a T3 couldn't beat a T4 or XXX-T Francis2? I believe it could.

Thanks

[rckid11]

Man I can't wait to race my T4 this weekend. I just got my GTB 5.5 dialed in and the truck looks great. I can make the tires balloon about 3 inches LOL . I will let you know how I do...

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Does anyone know if IB3800's in a side by side configuration will fit in a Team T4 chassis without modification?

[microrcdude]

you will probably need to use low-profile battery bars.

[bandit72577]

Yeah they are a little tight, but I just dremeled out the chassis a little and they fit well, nice and snug

[fanke19]

Does anyone know if IB3800's in a side by side configuration will fit in a Team T4 chassis without modification?Well, I can't speak for the IB3800's, but I just picked up some GP3700 packs, and they're a tight fit. Don't get me wrong, they fit fine, but they are snug, there is ABSOLUTELY NO side to side room to move. And the battery bar really kind of bends to fasten the pack in.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

What kind of bars will be the flattest? I think I heard the Niftech bars are good for space restricted fits?

[microrcdude]

well any bar will work, and if it doesnt, put it in the vise. Ive had good luck with the orion bones.

[racer34v]

does anyone know of an aluminum servo arm that will work in the t4, i keep killing the plastic ones

thanks
alan

[gizmoguy303]

Does anyone know if IB3800's in a side by side configuration will fit in a Team T4 chassis without modification?

I use the IB's in my T4 and B4 with no problems. I have used the Trinity bars (very easy to solder on, but kinda thin), and the Axxis bars (harder to solder on, but much less resistance). They are very low-profile and really big for low resistance. If you are a beginner at soldering I would use a thinner bar like the Trinity because they are cake to solder on. :)

[gizmoguy303]

does anyone know of an aluminum servo arm that will work in the t4, i keep killing the plastic ones

thanks
alan

An aluminum servo mount is available from Associated as a Factory Team upgrade. Search TowerHobbies and you should find it.

[gizmoguy303]

It's funny that you think because a truck is "still winning races," that they won't replace it. That has nothing to do with it. It's all marketing. The first rule in economics is that every company is in business to make money. AE and every other company will introduce new stuff, once they feel like their sales are starting to decline. Do you really feel that a T3 couldn't beat a T4 or XXX-T Francis2? I believe it could.

Thanks

Just to add to that topic...

Yes, companies usually replace the car once sales go down, but sales go down when the car stops winning. ;)

So you're both right. :D

[dustyRC10]

well i have my factory team kit all together, i'll post some pics in a few days. It was a lot of fun to build, can't wait to race it. Waiting for the esc to come in the mail.

[microrcdude]

very cool. Trust me you'll fall in love with this car

[racer34v]

An aluminum servo mount is available from Associated as a Factory Team upgrade. Search TowerHobbies and you should find it.
i was looking for the servo arm, the part that links the servo to the tierod... i found one made by hitec

thanks
alan

[electro21]

I just got a T4 and my friend has the RC10GT. Can the T4 keep up with the GT?

[semore]

Mine can with the Novak SS+ 5800 brushless system and almost samme run time as a tank of nitro fuel. I very happy with my brushless system. I have not tried my GTB 5.5 brushless yet. I had some issues with it and the digital servo. So Novak tech support is going thru it to make sure it is working 100% as designed.

[semore]

i was looking for the servo arm, the part that links the servo to the tierod... i found one made by hitec

thanks
alan
If your tallking about the servo horn that AE makes for the 4 different servos. They are about 2 or 3 bucks at LHS. you can also go with Kimbrough servo saver that works allso they cost about 5 bux. I have that one and it work great for a standord servo if you dont have the funds to buy a high end servo.
Links
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS362&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3191&P=7

Good luck

[FCTRYSEALD]

I have just recently purchased both kits. I bought both because they were similar in price and I couldn't make up my mind. Now I need to start putting one of them together and sell the other one. I still have the original RC10T that came out back in the early 1990's, so I was leaning towards the Losi only because I never had a chance to run one. So I thought I would just put the question out there for you guys that have these trucks, and hopefully make my decision easier.

Thanks

P.S. Is there any word of either Losi or Associated coming out with a newer version like XXXXT, MF3, factory team T4 SE, T5?

[microrcdude]

I dont really think so...they arent tamiya, so chances are the cars gotta be out for more than 2 monthes before they make a new design lol

[bigair78]

If I buy a T4 for bashing around what are some "must haves" that are a weak point. I've seen alot of people getting alluminum knuckles and stuff. Is this a weak point?

[tl_ke_racer]

I just ordered a T4 rtr special edition!! What do you guys think of the T4? and what would you consider to be some musts as far as aftermarket parts go?

[dustyRC10]

i've had mine since christmas and i love it. Not sure on what hop-ups you may need, but you might want to get some backup front a-arms, and body posts.

[tl_ke_racer]

do those parts break easily?

[dustyRC10]

i have personally broke the front left a-arm, but i also hit a pole at my track, but i have also heard that the body posts also have been busted

[tl_ke_racer]

Im guessing the special edition t4 rtr is better than the race spec rtr since its limited is this right? and because it has a 15 turn motor instead of a 17.

[FCTRYSEALD]

Some people have mentioned that if I get the factory team T4, that I should replace the chassis with a plastic one. If this is the case, where do I go about finding one?

Thanks

[electro21]

www.towerhobbies.com

[dustyRC10]

whats the thought in getting a plastic chassis?

[mpetrich]

The plastic chassis will flex a little bit more. It is not as stiff as the graphite one. In terms of needed hop-ups, I have changed to titanium tie rods and heavy duty ball ends. Those all bent pretty quickly. The rear body posts/wing mounts break pretty easily. Racer's Edge has some great ones that I used to replace the old ones. The servo mount is another area for a hop-up. The stock servo mount allows the servo to move a little bit and a metal one will eliminate the problem. The tires on the RTR will wear quickly and will need to be replaced. Other than that, those are the only problems I have had and I run it pretty hard on a 1/8th scale off road track.
Hope that helps.
Matt

[tl_ke_racer]

my truck comes today.

[tl_ke_racer]

Well the truck got here after it got dark so I am hopefully gonna get a chance to drive it tomorrow, looks like a really nice truck though.

btw just a funny bumper sticker I saw some might find it in bad taste but oh here it is
I would rather go hunting with Dick Cheyney then ride with Ted Kennedy.

[dustyRC10]

that is a pretty funny bumper sticker..lol have fun today, im taking mine racing tonight

[tl_ke_racer]

bah, just my luck it rains today after it being sunny all week.

[ErikRC10]

yea it's rained/snowed for the past 3 weekends which is the only time I can go to the track. it's startin to piss me off! lol. hopefully it will stop raining/snowing by March 18 which is when the first race is. (they don't race in the winter)

[winning edge designs]

I won't post that we were in the 70s and sunny all weekend in Florida, that woudln't be nice.

:D, Jim

[ErikRC10]

well the the past 2 weekends now I've been able to get out to the track but it was cold as *****. now there's suppose to be thunderstorms on friday so that kinda ruins my chances of going to the track.

[winning edge designs]

Sorry man, it will get better luckily! Hold out a little longer before turning into a total couch potato!

...Jim

jconcepts dot net

[nitro_newbie]

i was going to get a new kit and i was going to get the rc10t4 team kit and i was wondering if it would be able to handle a 4.5r brushless system or the 5.5 or would these be too powerful for this car and shred the tranny gears and has some one used these before
nitro_newbie

[ErikRC10]

The T4 should easily hold up to a 4.5 or 5.5. AE has some of the best trannies in the biz. I would go with the 5.5 though just bc the 4.5r would be to much speed I would think. Just my opinion though.

[winning edge designs]

I think they are both too much, just my opinion.

At the last race we had a Novak driver running the 4.5 in his T4. He could blow it over backwards at any given time almost anywhere on the track. In fact it would wheelie over and land on the roof, slide a few feet and bounce back onto the tires. LOL. He finishes lower then when he ran a 12 turn brushed since he crashed so much more.

If your just playing, it will be fun until it overheats and thermals after 3 minutes or so.

:D....Jim

jconcepts dot net

[Racin Rev]

maybe better for use with touring cars.

[nitro_newbie]

but how buot the 6.5 and 7.5 i just wanted to get a brushless system didnt want to have to buy all new charger and a lathe ect :rolleyes: .would it mess up if i would under gear it also i need lots of power to move them paddles when i make the occassional trip to the dunes and how fast do you guys think it would go? thanx
nitro_newbie :cool: :D
also would these rims fit the t4?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLCB8&P=7

[winning edge designs]

I woudl try the 6.5 or 7.5, both would be good. You can get ALOT of speed, but shorter runs with higher gearing(bigger pinion). I would think 40 mph isn't unrealistic, 50 with room and a taller gear.

...Jim

[luckyrc]

Can anyone tell me the benefit of going to inline steering blocks on a T4 vs the trailing steering that comes stock on the truck?

[scoob]

but how buot the 6.5 and 7.5 i just wanted to get a brushless system didnt want to have to buy all new charger and a lathe ect :rolleyes: .would it mess up if i would under gear it also i need lots of power to move them paddles when i make the occassional trip to the dunes and how fast do you guys think it would go? thanx
nitro_newbie :cool: :D
also would these rims fit the t4?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLCB8&P=7

My 6.5 went 40.9 mph geared 18/87. This was with a 8000mah lipo though, 6-cells may be a bit less. Acceleration is awe inspiring though and they do have awheelie problem :)

[ErikRC10]

the inline axles with give the car a more aggresive feel while the trailing axles will give it a more smoother feel.

[Racin Rev]

So Jim, have you joined the DARK SIDE? :p :eek: :p

[lds12]

back in the day I used to race my t3, but then my local track closed. I remember using it around the backyard after that a few times but its long gone now. All i do now is bash my emaxx over anything i can find, but mostly i just race it around a big open section in my backyard. Its not overgrown in this section and the grass height is usually pretty tame. How well would a new t4 act in a backyard situation? If it can power through with speed and agility like it does on the track im sold.

[electro21]

as long as the grass isn't over 1.5 (1.75in max) u should be fine. I used my t3 for backyard bashing sessions.

[scoob]

If you get the rtr T4, the 15 turn motor will overheat like crazy in grass. My friend bought one and his motor lasted 5-6 runs before it started to lag. Gearing down for grass would help alot.

[winning edge designs]

Racin Rev, most locals say I left the dark side, haha.

Yes, I'm running the BJ4, B4 and T4, I even have a 1977 GT(inside joke) which will get it's maiden voyage at the Losi race this week, :)!

...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[luckyrc]

I keep hearing about adding weight to the rear of the T4 for traction and handling. How much do you recommend, where & how?

[winning edge designs]

Some racers don't add any, I have an ounce added, .5 on each side of the chassis on the back section stuck to the inside of the rearmost reinforcing ribs.

...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[novellahub]

I keep hearing about adding weight to the rear of the T4 for traction and handling. How much do you recommend, where & how?

My T4 has 1/4 oz of weight in each rear chassis corners. I also have added 1 oz of weight behind the rear chassis brace (It gets sandwiched between the rear chassis brace and tranny).

The reason why people add weight is for better traction and handling.

[Drkmstr104]

I just got my T4 from my local hobby shop... and i like it so far, the only problem is the fact that the tires are already worn down!!! I got maybe 5 or 6 runs in before the back started to slide out at every turn. I have been practicing on a track and in my back yard... grass doesnt seem like a suitable terrain for it to run on. Also, im about to upgrade from weak practice batteries (1600 mAh Ni-Cd) to 3300 mAh Ni-Mh, how much do any of you think that the speed and response will increase? Im just a n00b at this, so im wondering how much more performance I would get out of new batteries ( and I just got new team losi reptile tires too, so traction isnt an issue anymore). Im having trouble designing a track for my backyard, too many ideas and not exactly enough space!!! I have 31 feet by 35 feet to work with, so what kind of track would any of you think would be suitable for getting practice in? And I have also been wondering when its time to replace the brushes in the motor, I have the 15 turn stock RTR motor and I want to race stock at the next meet, maybe a new motor would be needed, but im not exactly sure. What brands of motors and such have the best performance for the buck? Thanks! -Drkmstr104

[ErikRC10]

the tires that came with your truck wont last very long. They are cheep tires that aren't designed to last very long but the ones you upgraded to should last longer. With 3300's your call will be much faster in every aspect except for servo response. If you are gonna race stock then you will need to replace your 15T motor with a 27T motor with locked timing. This motor even though it has a higher number of turns may actually be faster. A good stock motor is the Trinity CO27. I haven't used it myself but I have heard very good things about it and it's not a bad price.

[guver]

Why are 27 t "stock" motors faster than a lot of the lower turn motors?

[electro21]

1. Because the 27T "racing" motors are a lot better built than the cheap low turn motors.

2. While racing, it's not always about the amount of power, but the driver.

[FLYBOY7]

anybody know of a metal idler gear for the T4???

thankssssss

T.

[guver]

1. Because the 27T "racing" motors are a lot better built than the cheap low turn motors.

2. While racing, it's not always about the amount of power, but the driver.

How are they "better" ? Thanks.

[ErikRC10]

They are better because the quality is better. They use better wire better armatures the armatures are usually balanced on competition stock motors unlike cheap mod motors. These little differents may not sound like much but trust me they are. It might actually not be faster but it shouldn't be any slower.

[winning edge designs]

FLYBOY7, oooooooh, i'm not so sure you want to do that, the heat from it will be transferred into the diff gear. More frequent diff rebiulds and possible worse are possible.

What problem are you having?
If it's stripping, how is your slipper set?

...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[guver]

I am wondering what "better" wire there could be other than bigger wire. I have an idea maybe the wire gage is bigger?

[electro21]

I am wondering what "better" wire there could be other than bigger wire. I have an idea maybe the wire gage is bigger?

The average 12awg wire has 660 strands of copper, but 12awg wet noodle wire has 1660 strands of copper. It doesn't have to be bigger and the motor manufactures are only gonna tell you so much.

How are they "better" ? Thanks.

All motors are NOT created equal! For example, the V6 in a Hyundai Tiburon is only 180hp and the V6 in a VW Jetta is around 200HP, but the 4 cylinder in Subaru STI is 300HP. The V6 Jetta and Tiburon are like the cheap modified motors. The subaru is like the racing 27T motor. The subaru may have less cylinders or 'more turns', but it is better built and it has some performance modifications (better springs, brushes armatures, dyno tuned, magnets, etc.) that the cheap mod motors don't have. Hope this helps explain things.

[ErikRC10]

dang electro that was a good way of putting it. also like a Evo 9 is a better faster car then the WRX STI even though it has a little bit less horse power it's all around a little bit faster kind of like how some stock motors even though they are still basically the same (like the sti and the evo 9 are both 4 door sedans with all wheel drive and 4 cylinders) some are faster then others. I think that might have made it more confusing but I got it and all I really wanted to say was that the Evo 9 was a better car.

[electro21]

Most races that I've been to or heard about that have a short twisty track will have similar runtimes in stock and modified. I've got a Novak 5800 brushless system that I'm going to stick in my T4. I think it should do pretty good on most tracks considering it is only 2wd.

[guver]

The average 12awg wire has 660 strands of copper, but 12awg wet noodle wire has 1660 strands of copper. It doesn't have to be bigger and the motor manufactures are only gonna tell you so much.





All motors are NOT created equal! For example, the V6 in a Hyundai Tiburon is only 180hp and the V6 in a VW Jetta is around 200HP, but the 4 cylinder in Subaru STI is 300HP. The V6 Jetta and Tiburon are like the cheap modified motors. The subaru is like the racing 27T motor. The subaru may have less cylinders or 'more turns', but it is better built and it has some performance modifications (better springs, brushes armatures, dyno tuned, magnets, etc.) that the cheap mod motors don't have. Hope this helps explain things.

I was asking about motor wire (solid)

If the 27 turn arm was installed into the "worse" mod motor can along with it's "worse" brushes, mags,springs. Would it be slower than the original "cheap" mod motor?

[electro21]

I was asking about motor wire (solid)

If the 27 turn arm was installed into the "worse" mod motor can along with it's "worse" brushes, mags,springs. Would it be slower than the original "cheap" mod motor?

1. I know what you were talking about, I used the 12awg as an example.

2. You'll have to spend the money on getting that nice 27t arm and putting it into the cheap can to find. Let me know how that goes!

[winning edge designs]

Good analogy, but I think comparing a turbo 4 to a normally aspirated 6 is like comparing a RTR motor with 7 cells to a good 27 turn with 6, or even 5 cells. A little confusing but still a good one, just nitpicking from bordom.

The little subaru engine although healthy with the turbo is a slug without it. Same as the mitsu. In fact same as most 4 cyl. Good mileage out of the throttle is nice though. So you know i'm driving a Matrix XR and it is decent for a normally aspirated 4 and $18-20,000 less then the turbo cars we're talking about. Gets me to work pretty well though, I get to work as fast as any car on the road when the police are around....LOL.

A good 27 turn has FAR more technology in it then a RTR 15 or 19 turn does, in fact the RTR motors are as cheap as possible and the lower turns are just to impress kids in the shops, like $35,000 turbo 4 cyl cars at dealers kind of.

Just get a good 27 turn or even a good Orion based 19 turn for some real speed!

:D...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[electro21]

I am in the process of converting my batteries over to Lipo. How does a 2S lipo and the Novak 5800 run in the T4. I have the team kit if it matters.

[redsixer]

I recently installed a Novak brushless 5.5 in my T4. Man is it fast! My problem is steering. What can I do to keep it from pushing so hard? I know I have to slow down ,but it seems to push way too much.

[electro21]

tighten up the diff

[ErikRC10]

or if that doens't work try softer front springs.

[winning edge designs]

There are a few things that will add steering to your truck. First if you are lightening the front end too much, aka wheelies, nothing will work other then letting off the gas until you get the desired steering. LOL

You can also: Move the battery forward.
Move the rear hubs back for a longer truck(spacers all in front of the hubs).
Use a rear sway bar.
Try rear tires with less traction, or fronts with more.
Adjust ride hieght higher in back, until it feels more balanced.

These adjustments will all help on power steering. There are other things, but you don't seem to be having off power steering issues since you mentioned the power your running.

:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[RSBatCRH06]

I recently purchased a used T4 RTR from my LHS for $150. When I brought it home to try and run it the performance sucked, and it wouldn’t run for more than 2 minutes…come to find out the stock Reedy Krypton Modified 17 turn motors comm. Is worn out pretty bad…its worn down to about half a millimeter…I don’t know what to do…I was thinking about getting 2 new motors for my T4 and also for my stock factory team TC3 with a 23 turn motor…I was also thinking to just cut the comm. on the reedy and put in my TC3 and just get a new motor for my T4…I am planning to do some minor racing at my local race track with the truck and I just mess around with my tc3 in parking lots.

So if I do get two new motors what ones should I get for the truck and for the car?

And if I just dump the Reedy with a freshly cut comm in the tc3 what motor should I get for my T4?

Also I'm not that too educated in electric motors but what are some differences between different turned motors besides performance…like run time, brush life, comm. life, just basic mandatory maintenance issues? Thank you for your help.

i tried to read thread as much as possible but family just came by for bbq.

[winning edge designs]

The lower the turns, the more power and Rpm, also more heat, wear and shorter battery charge life and brush life.

I would go with a good stock motor, like the Orion stock, Cobalt27, etc., or maybe the Orion or Checkpoint 19 turn motors if you want to race in the 19 turn or modified classes(if there is no 19 turn you'll end up in mod class).

The better you keep the brushes the longer the comm and motor will last. Almost all of the wear occurs when the motor is run with badly worn brushes and no maintenace. This includes cleaning with good motor spray and oil on the bearings or bushings and a cut of the comm every 10-15 runs or so. If you run a really low turn motor, like an 8 turn, then the comm gets cut and new brushes every run(for example).

Hope this helps,
Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[redsixer]

Thanks for the help guys.
I did a couple of things, I moved the battery foward for more weight up front, I also reconfigured all of my electronics. What I did was mount everything except my transponder and receiver on the battery strap. I have the woven carbon fiber strap that is completely flat. I put the speed control, the capacitor, and the switch on the battery strap. I then put the receiver on the servo, and put the transponder on the front top plate. Everything is now in the center of the truck, and it sure does handle better. I have only got to test it at home bashing, and cant wait until I see how it does on the track this weekend.

[winning edge designs]

What? You should be ok running a similar set up to what the national champ and the rest of the A team is using.
I think the fact that the weight is more centered is great, but having things 2 inches higher in the truck is counter productive. The engineers go to great lengths to get the diff and extra .030 or so lower in the truck as well as other things, so i'm not sure it is a good idea for the race track.

...Jim

[RSBatCRH06]

thanks i got it now

[Drkmstr104]

I just bought some new brushes for my T4, it has the RTR stock 15 turn motor, and the second I put in the new brushes, It was sooooooo much faster! I was amazed at how much more acceleration I am getting, and with a standard 3300mAh Reedy battery too. I am curious to know if buying different brushes than the ones that come stock with this motor are better than the ones they give you. I purchased polarized brushes from Trinity, they are apparently mod.... and the part # is 4390, they were cheap too! At $3.50, thats a very cheap upgrade. Tell me what you think! Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[winning edge designs]

Brushes are a maintenance item, but they will boost performance if the old ones were very worn. There also a good tuning item and can affect power delivery if they contain more silver, which is a better conductor. So they can be used as a hop up as well.
The difference isn't as much though, from good standard brushes to high silver, so usually only experienced racers can tell. Unlike replacing worn with new brushes.

...Jim

[Drkmstr104]

Brushes are a maintenance item, but they will boost performance if the old ones were very worn. There also a good tuning item and can affect power delivery if they contain more silver, which is a better conductor. So they can be used as a hop up as well.
The difference isn't as much though, from good standard brushes to high silver, so usually only experienced racers can tell. Unlike replacing worn with new brushes.

...Jim

Hmmm... I guess that my brushes really needed to be changed. How often do you recommend that this maintainence take place? I am just a beginner at RC and Im looking for as many useful tips as possible. These new brushes appear to be made entirely out of copper, and my old ones had a slightly silvery color, though that doesnt' necessarily mean that they actually contain silver. Is there anyway that I can help prevent my motor from overheating? Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[winning edge designs]

Drkmstr104, the brush life is something that can vary quite a bit. Depending on your gearing, the surface you run on, spring tension, etc.
Usually a best case scenario is 18-20 runs before performance drops off noticably.
I have also raced with intentionaly overgeared motors with "sprint" style brushes that require cutting the comm and replacement after only 1 run, yes, ONE battery pack!

For the best results I would take the motor out and inspect the brushes every few runs and check them out. Any blueing further then a 1/16th of an inch from the contact area indicates excess heat. Wear past 1/3 from new means alot of runs or too much spring tension. Both mean it's time for new brushes.

This should help out with brush maintenance.
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[Drkmstr104]

Does anyone think it would be worth purchasing an aluminium motor plate? I noticed that my steel motor plate heats up pretty good, and if getting an aluminum one would technically be a better buy (light weight, and an excellent thermal conductor) then the outcome should be positive, right? What other ways exist for dissapating the heat in a motor? I know that cars have radiators, coputers generally use heatsinks, and so forth, but I havnt seen a promising heat dissapating device for the T4... Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[lextek]

It may help cooling. It just looks good. So I would call it justified bling.

[Drkmstr104]

Last night at the race, I was having tons of trouble with steering. I have the z590m JR servo with metal gears, and it says on the package that it has 85 ounce inch torque @ 6 volts, and that it takes it .15seconds to turn 60 degrees, which I found out to be not true. I have the d/r turned all the way up on my transmitter, so that the wheels turn as far as they can, and still when I am making a turn there isnt enough torque in this servo to hold the wheels where they are, they try to straighten out every time I turn. Is there something I am just missing here, or does none of this make sense? Is it possible that JR made false statements on this servo's capabilities, or that mine might be a dud? What servos are there that turn fast, hold the turn without the wheels straightening out, have high torque, and are reasonably priced? My T4 doesnt stand a chance against other cars if I cant turn properly. Thanks! -Drkmstr104

[electro21]

Try a Hitec 645mg. It has 133 oz-in @ 6v w/ .20 speed. The 625mg has 94 oz-in @ 6v w/ .15 speed. Both are $40 on tower.

[pyro18t]

is your servo saver to loose? just a thought

[Disturbed 02]

I just got a Team Associated RC10T4 RS, and I was wondering what batteries I should use with it. I need a good value though, my pocket isn't that deep at the moment, but I don't wanna waste money on crap.

[electro21]

A good value would be the GP3300s at radioshack for $25.

[paulicat]

wrong forum. sorry.

[Disturbed 02]

I only have had experience on nitro engines, electric is new to me.
What is mAh and how does it affect the speed and how long of a run time I get?
Also how high can I use on the truck?
Also can I use a 7celled Battery?

[electro21]

Mah is the capacity (run time) the battery has. The bigger the number, generally the more run time. It has nothing to do with speed, voltage takes care of that. You can have a battery with 20,000mah if you can fit it in the truck and your electronics don't overheat from playing so long.

[Disturbed 02]

Last question, whenever a Charger says AC, does that mean I can plug it into a wall and DC needs something else. Whats the difference?

[pyro18t]

AC is at home DC is like in you car ( your 1/1 scale one =-) so when your at the track or at a dirt field you can hook your RC car chrager a full size car battery and charge your RC battery's

Jay

[winning edge designs]

Also, DC(direct current) needs a power supply to convert the AC(alternating current) current into DC, an AC/DC charger has a biult in power supply, less efficient, but also less expensive then seperate units.

:D, Jim

[Drkmstr104]

Those servos that you said sound pretty good, but I just discovered another problem! I put my multimeter on the leads where the servo plugs in to the reciever, I got a clear reading of 5 volts. The batteries that I am running are the Reedy 3300mah 7.2 volt pack, there should be plenty of voltage running through the system! Is it possible that I have to replace my reciever or my speed control or something similar? And nah, my servo saver isnt too loose, which was a good thing to check. BTW I I found a really nice pair of batteries on ebay, they are Ni-Mh 3300 mAh batteries, each is 7.2 volts and 6 cell, you can get 2 for about $30! I should have gotten em by now but USPS lost my cashiers check in the process ='( but thats a whole other problem. Thanks for the help!
-Drkmstr104

[rc10mike]

ESCs usually only put out 5v to the receiver and servo...must be an LRP?

[Drkmstr104]

7 celled batteries arent allowed for use in stock or mod racing, but those are just the rules that apply at the track I race at, im not entirely sure on anywhere else but I have an idea those wouldnt be legal. mAh = milli amp hours, I race with a 3300 mAh Ni-Mh battery, it gives me all the power that I need and will last as long as you can race, you have to watch out for overheating though, when im practicing I try my best to keep track of how hot my motor gets so I know what I can do at the track without killing expensive componets =D! When I first got my 3300 I accidentally burndt out the brushes because I ran it too long, and yep there was a little bit of smoke from it. Also when choosing a battery mke sure that its the type you want, most racers dont prefer Ni-Cd (nickel cadmium) because of the memory effect (you have to fully discharge the battery before you charge em again, if you use 50% of the battery charge and then put it on the battery recharger, the next time thats all you will be able to use is 50% of the batteries). Ni-Cd's are also pretty heavy batteries, try to keep it light. What alot of racers prefer is Ni-Mh (nickel metal hydride) which do not have the memory effect, you can charge em anytime you want, they are a bit lighter in weight compared to Ni-Cd and dont cost too much. Li-Po are the best, but are expensive, and Lithium ion are good to , but also expensive. Also, make sure that the batteries are cooled off after a race before you recharge em, hot batteries arent happy batteries, and let em cool off after recharging too before racing, this is where a fan comes in handy =D. Hopefully this should help you out.
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

Yep the speed control that I have is an LRP, the one with the Automatic orientation. If they only put out 5v to the servo, then why do the companies that make the servos list their capabilities with 6volts?

[winning edge designs]

It pumps up the ratings they can advertise.

:D, Jim
jconcepts dot net

[Drkmstr104]

So the solution that I could go with would be to get a higher torque servo...I dont exactly have very much money, so it will have to wait. Is there some kind of temporary fix that would be legal for racing and bump the voltage up a bit so i dont have a totally worthless steering setup? I keep on thinking about soldering a capacitor into the servo circuit, but capacitors are more for smoothing things out and making sure there is power when you need it... and then I had the idea of putting in another battery within the servo circuit to up the voltage by 1.2v. lol but to me it sounds like my options are limited to getting a higher torque servo... Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[pyro18t]

I had a pretty junky servo in my RC10T with a 10Tx2 in it, I had some steering problems, but not what you described. Is there another sevo you can switch it out with? Is it posible some of your gears in the servo are warn, or striped out? Just something to think about.

Jay

[rc10mike]

Servos usually get 6v when used in nitro cars. Theyre powered by a small 5 cell battery which equals 6v.

[Drkmstr104]

Nah I dont have another one to switch it out with ... yet... but im planning on buying one thats cheap and has high torque. It is possible they have worn or stripped, but I doubt that they are, on my old servo with plastic gears you could tell if the gears were worn down or stripped. But its more the fact that the servo turns slow, it is LOUD (which isnt really a problem, but it annoys the crap outa me), and the wheels try to straighten out when I turn, and what I mean by that is that when Im going slow (barely throttling it) it makes turns that are tight, the car itself probably travels like a few feet in the circle. When I speed it up it makes HUGE turns, the servo doesnt have enough torque in it to hold the wheels where they need to be, and it looses turning power and usually ends up running into the barriers unless I bring the car to a near stop, I shouldnt have to do that. My friend has a servo from futaba that supposedly has 63 ounce inch torque and turns 60degrees in .14 seconds, mine should be 85 ounce inch torque and turns 60 degrees in .15 seconds, and his is still more powerful than mine is, when he is going full speed down a street and makes a sharp turn his car ends up flipping because the servo turns so fast and has enough torque, my truck goes just about as fast as his (we both race stock) and when I turn the truck makes really wide turns... it doesnt make sense to me. Both of our servos are listed with the specifications tested at 6 volts from the manufacturers. And this servo is pretty new, ive had if for less than a month and used it on 8 battery charges, no brutal things have happened to it, and I remember when it was out of the box it turned as fast as it does now, slow and loud, and not strong enough. I keep thinking that I should bump up the voltage with a battery or something as a temp fix... dont know if that would work though lol. Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

Oh yea, im also pretty new to soldering, any useful tips that I could use and/or good things to know would be great!

[bakabaka]

Oh yea, im also pretty new to soldering, any useful tips that I could use and/or good things to know would be great!

Always tin and clean the tip if you want it to last, practice before you work on something you care about, make sure the surfaces you want to solder are very very clean, and work quickly. Keeping one's hands away from the tip is a good idea too... I'm no soldering genius, but I found all these out the hard way ;)

Have fun! :)

[bakabaka]

Anyone have an approximate good gearing for Masher 2k tires on a T4 using a 19t motor? I'm going to need to pick up a pinion, but if anyone has an idea beforehand I'd appreciate it.

Have fun! :)

[cbrfreak]

Drkmstr104,
Two things come to mind that have gotten me in the past. You say your truck does low speed turns just fine, so the servo is fine...
What you are describing is an on-throttle push, so it must be one or both of the following,
Your servo saver is too loose
or your setup on the chassis has too much rear traction and is lifting the front-end up when you are on-throttle just enough that your truck can't get enough traction up front.
Check your servo saver then add two degrees of anti-squat.

[team associated]

i have a 12x2 turn mod reedy kr motor LRP V7.1 esc the motor is only a month old my motor is getting rilly hot and wonder whats wrong could it be the comm it has not been cut since i dont have a comm cutter :confused:

[microrcdude]

yeah with low turned mod motors your suppost to cut the comm and replace the brushes every 3 to 5 runs. Was the motor really hot its first few runs too?

[Drkmstr104]

How would I add 2 degrees of anti squat? Does that involve the shocks, or would it involve adding weight towards the front of my T4? By the way my battery pack is as close as it can get to the front of the car, I have all the battery foams in the back towards the motor. Im not using a servo saver anymore. I did test something out though, the voltage on my friend's reciever for the servo was 6 volts, as you probably read mine was 5 volts. I tried my servo in his truck, it was alot faster and more responsive than in my truck. I guess this means that I have to get a new speed controller ='(, and probably another servo. A strange thing happened, I recently helped my friend fix his Atom Novak speed controller so that I could put it in my truck, so I could replace my LRP AI super reverse ESC. The acceleration was great, but the top speed seemed to be half of the top speed that his other Atom ESC had... im not sure what went wrong.
Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[winning edge designs]

Drkmstr104, there are end point settings that need to be reprogrammed with a transmitter change, etc. OR did you do this already?

Anti squat is the adjustment that moves the rear hinge pins up at a steeper angle. It is done with the plastic shims under the front rear hinge pin mount. Loosen the screws to insert a spacer, the thin one is 1 degree and the thicker one adds 2.

Hope this helps....

...Jim
jconcepts dot net
RC10B4 dot com

[Drkmstr104]

Actualy I didnt know about the end point settings... lol I feel dumb... so how do you program those settings?

[winning edge designs]

It will depend on what Radio your using, you may need to get out the manual if you still have it for both the speedo and radio itself.
A summary is to set the high and low to max(100 on some, 140 on others) and set the speedo to it's instructions. Then you can back down the brakes etc with the end points by lowering the low point, etc.

Same goes for steering end points....

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[GTB_USER_ERIK]

hello all :) I was wondering where one might find on this thread, or on this Forum, Set-up sheets from other racers. Such as which holes to use for our shocks and what the best camber setting is, that sort of Set-up sheet :confused: .
Any and all help would be greatly welcomed.

[t44ever]

hey im new here and was wondering, i just bought a used t4 for $60 less than new and was only used once and the guy decided he wanted to run nitro instead. but back to my question i have drived mostly on the road now cause my body is being painted and i dont want to run in the dirt till its done painted so tires are all worn down and need to be replaced. can i unglue the tires so i can put new tires on it?

[bakabaka]

Hi t44ever,

I've had tires come unglued on my T4 while I was running. Re-gluing them has never been a problem. As long as the rims are still in good condition, I don't see why not. I had only ran offroad with Masher 2k tires on my T4 though, which are bigger and heavier than the stock tires and would probably come off easier.

Have fun! :)

[t44ever]

thanks bakabaka

is there a way you can unglue them with out running them so i can replace them?
like remove them on purpose

[bakabaka]

Hi t44ever,

I suppose pulling the tire straight away from the wheel should work, since that's all that happens when you run it. This might be destructive to the tires if a lot of glue was used. If they're already beyond their usefulness though, that shouldn't matter.

Have fun! :)

[t44ever]

ya they are the same tires as it came from the factory so they are really really glued on so ill just pay the $5-7 to buy new rims and a good pair of tires
could u reccomend a good tire for mostly racing but could hold up to a little running on asphalt?

thanks alot!

[bakabaka]

Hi t44ever,

I mostly run 4WD buggies, and don't really race, but I'd imagine a good set of hole shots would be nice for racing. They seem to have a lot of traction on dirt surfaces, although I've found that pebbles and mud can reduce their traction since the studs are small. They're the stock rear tires on the T4 IIRC, and I have a set of hole shots on one of my buggies as well. I've been happy with their performance.

You might want to keep your old tires for pavement use, since they're probably not much different from slicks now. Racing tires tend to be soft and present relatively little surface area to asphalt at first, so they wear quickly. Otherwise, you might want to save up and pick up a set of both front and rear wheels and put road hawgs on them. (I'm a fan of Pro-Line tires, can you tell?) You'll probably want both front and back tires to be the same on asphalt, since the stock ribs in front aren't likely to get much of a grip on the road.

Have fun! :)

[t44ever]

ya thats what i planed on doing keeping the stock tires for road use and a racing set for the dirt.

does anybody know the size of the wheel hexes cause i konw that the front back are diffrent sizes but what specific sizes are they

thanks in advance!

[bakabaka]

Hi t44ever,

The wheels on mine do not use hexes, but rather axle pins that match up with a slot in the rear wheels. FWIW, HPI wheels tend to come with adapter hexes that match the Team Associated axle pins. The front wheels sit on bearings rather than touching the axle directly, pretty much the same as most stadium trucks although the outer portion of the axle is smaller than the inner part. I'd imagine you could find T4 wheels labelled as such in most hobby shops.

Have fun! :)

[t44ever]

thanks my i goofed up i ment wheel nuts! would you happen to know that?

sorry

[Steve323]

Ever since I gave my Traxxas Rustler to my brother Ive been wanting to get a truck. I currently own a tc3. Ive been wondering how the t4 holds up to abuse. My brother and I basically do everything were not supposed to do to the rustler :p I was looking at the factory team kit (mainly because I have enough extra electronics to use in it.) I have never built a kit before (bought my ft tc3 used. So how does the t4 hold up. Is it a good truck? Can it take abuse. I really dont want to spend 240 for a kit only to have it sitting in my room waiting for parts every week. I would be jumping into grass and jumping curbs. Nothing huge though......so basically...what are the pros and cons of the truck?

[t44ever]

hey steve-

the t4 is very really durable i have been bashing mine for a week now and all i have done is wear down the tires but thats cause they are for dirt and not pavement doughnuts! the only thing i have managed to do is pop off the rear turnbuckle from the ball stud nothin that keeps me sidelined. but thats cause i was goin all out at a curb at an angle (cause it looks cool when ur in midair)

the only complaint i have so far is, i have to let battries cool down and recharge and i have slightly limited daylight but thats the only thing keeping me from running litterally 24-7 i love this car so much

the aluminum shocks are a plus as well as the open layout so its really easy to work on. the dual pad slipper is really cool and useful as well!

all in all what ever model you get you will be extremely happy with

enjoy yourself!

[Drkmstr104]

Alright, tires cannot just be pulled off of the rims, lol usually they are glued on with CA glue or superglue, and the glue has to be dissolved first. Take a bucket and 2-4 large rocks, fill the bucket with acetone, also make sure your bucket isnt plastic, because there are some types of plastics that acetone will mess with... metal would be your best bet. Submerge the tires in the acetone and place a rock on top, this ensures that the tires wont float and get the glue dissolved on one side only, cover the bucket with aluminum foil because the acetone in there likes to evaporate, fast! For me, It took 2 days to dissolve the glue.... my friend managed to get his dissolved in 2 hours ... and we used the same process.... lol not sure what happened there. IF your tires are just too worn down, and you wnat to use them for asphalt, then leave em the way they are. However, for new tires, you need to buy rims, and then the tires, and some ca glue or superglue. Glueing em on takes place on the part of the rim that the tire fits in, I cant really describe it online... need pictures O_O but you glue the lip of the tire to the gap on the rim. When you are pulling the tires off the rims after dissolving em it is easy to tell where they go... but if you arent going to do this then ask a hobby shop for instructions. Take a few rubber bands OR some of thoose Livestrong wristbands and pull em around the tire, this makes sure you get a good solid glue job and also makes it so you dont have to hold it tight and wait for the glue to dry O_o... also, before glueing the tires on make sure that the foams are in the right place, if everything is balanced your tires will get an even better glue job, and balanced tires are a heck of a lot better than unbalanced ones. The tires that I have used have lasted a LONG time, they are red dot, but somehow lasted a while, they are the Losi Reptiles, they are great for backyard bashing, and I have used em through 20 or more battery charges in my yard, and for 7 races too. They still have grip on em!! Good luck with that!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

For my new issue... I just installed a new servo, I got fed up with my JR z590m, and bought a really high torque one, also with metal gears, The Cirrus cs-704mg! It has 181 ounce inches of torque @ 4.8 volts, and turns 60 degrees in .17 seconds... also @ 4.8 volts. I could barely fit this servo into my T4 because its pretty beefy, and I had to hack one of the servo horns, which had been intended for an airplane rudder or something...everything fits...barely, but now my problem is that my truck has problems getting moving! When I throttle it without using the servo its fine, when I steer and throttle at the same time my acceleration is glitchy... either really slow or in little bursts... At first i thought this may be the brushes, but I recently cleaned the motor with some motor spray AND replaced the brushes. I have a Reedy MVP 24degree timed 27 turn stock motor, with the solder on brushes, reedy part 767... and I think this should be just fine... I have a feeling that my LRP AI 13 turns and up super reverse ESC cannot handle the amperage to the servo... does this mean getting an ESC that puts out higher voltage to the servo, or just getting a new ESC that is better... im not sure what to do! Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[t44ever]

so its just with this servo the other one u had it it was fine?

check to make sure its pluged in the the right reciver slot
and make sure that your capacitiors on your motor are as far away from the reciver as possible ( forgot why but it works)

other than that im stumped!

good luck

[B L A D E]

Well who makes the best 1/10 scale truck? I own a t4rs and witch isa better? Losi, assosiated, or traxxas? I just bought my t4rs :D . I was wondering if I got the best truck. I know they have losi and the rustler but what is really the best? For racing and all arround? -Blade

[B L A D E]

Sorry for the reapeat!

-Blade

[t44ever]

has anybody ever heard of the three piece rims associated makes i ahve seen them before but i cant find them now! i dont know what happened. anyway if someone can find the link or has this product any info would be greatly appreciated

thanks in advance!

[B L A D E]

Well who makes the best 1/10 scale truck? I own a t4rs and witch isa better? Losi, assosiated, or traxxas? I just bought my t4rs :D . I was wondering if I got the best truck. I know they have losi and the rustler but what is really the best? For racing and all arround? -Blade


anyone? -blade

[Drkmstr104]

anyone? -blade
I own the T4, my friend owns a losi xxx-t, and my other friend owns a rustler. I think the T4 is the newest, and possibly the best... the Losi XXX-t is alright, I drove my friends a few times and It does everything that the T4 can do. The rustler isnt very popular and I dont reccomend it, it looks like a critter and is inexpensive, you get what you pay for... I see it as more of a toy than a good offroad vehicle... so if you wanna go with anything go with a T3, T4, or XXX-T... my favorite is what I own.. the T4 O_O ... so I think you made a smart choice. The T4 is VERY upgradable, so is the XXX-T, and the Rustler isnt very upgradable...
-Drkmstr104

[t44ever]

the t4 is very laid out and easy to work on as well

[Steve323]

I own the T4, my friend owns a losi xxx-t, and my other friend owns a rustler. I think the T4 is the newest, and possibly the best... the Losi XXX-t is alright, I drove my friends a few times and It does everything that the T4 can do. The rustler isnt very popular and I dont reccomend it, it looks like a critter and is inexpensive, you get what you pay for... I see it as more of a toy than a good offroad vehicle... so if you wanna go with anything go with a T3, T4, or XXX-T... my favorite is what I own.. the T4 O_O ... so I think you made a smart choice. The T4 is VERY upgradable, so is the XXX-T, and the Rustler isnt very upgradable...
-Drkmstr104


I must disagree that the rustler isnt very upgradeable. What is not upgradable about it? Theres aluminum parts, lexan chassis, aluminum chassis....You can upgrade anything on the truck you want to if you have the money :rolleyes:

[Drkmstr104]

Lol if you have the money... then again that goes with just about anything that you upgrade O_o I had been looking around for some parts for it, the only ones I could find were stock replacement parts, such as arms and turnbuckles and the like. If you compare the upgradability of the T4 and XXX-T with the Rustler you might find that the Rustler is more limited in certain areas ... the neat thing about the rustler is it comes in 2 versions... electric and nitro... but I found very few upgrade parts. Im not saying that the Rustler isnt raceworthy, but I havnt seen too many things come from Traxxas .. I noticed on the Revo that it has to really slow down before it can turn, provided that it doesnt flip over in the process lol... In fact, the only traxxas trucks that I have seen at the track are the T-maxx 2.5, and the Revo 3.3 ... The rest of the vehicles there are either Losi or Associated.. we have a guy that races a kyosho truggy too.. and it always beats the traxxas revo... then again im not sure the Revo and T-Maxx's are meant to be raced... but yea with enough money you can get just about anything... the part on the T4 that breaks easily are the Front A Arms O_O!!! I saw some aluminum ones on ebay for $20... might be worth getting in the long run lol. The thing that I think all trucks should have upgradable would be a heat sink on the motor plate!!! I might put a chipset cooler on mine...comes witha heatsink and a 5 cfm fan for about $13 at compusa... tigerdirect had it for cheaper, until after shipping ='(. Heat is always a problem for electrics and nitros, and I dont see the companies making any serious solutions, lol thats why im attempting to make some heatsinks from aluminum.
-Drkmstr104

[ErikRC10]

The rustler is very upgradable but not really raceable. I have a friend that has a rustler that he put everything on it to make it racable that he could and still couldn't keep up with the rest of us with AE and Losi cars. It's a good basher though.

[Drkmstr104]

The rustler is very upgradable but not really raceable. I have a friend that has a rustler that he put everything on it to make it racable that he could and still couldn't keep up with the rest of us with AE and Losi cars. It's a good basher though.

Lol yea ill agree with that. The parts that Associated and Losi use seem a lot better quality wise than traxxas. When you look at the line of trucks traxxas offers, most of em are backyard bashers! I consider all of the T-maxx's to be backyard bashers, I guess the same goes with the rustler.. I havnt driven the rustler, ive watched my friend drive his though... Im not sure about the Jato... I dont know anyone that owns it lol...and not to mention their 1/6 scale buggy with a 23 cc engine... which I have never seen... besides the 23 cc engine the biggest one that the make available in stores is the 3.3 TRX...After reviewing their entire selection of vehicles, Im not sure if any of them are really for legit racing use, although traxxas claims their Revos are for racing I havnt seen em perform nearly as well as other trucks and truggies... I might be wrong but I just dont see whats so great about em so far... Team Associated and Losi definately make their products for racing and thats All I see at the track that race aside from the kyosho truggy and a t-maxx and one revo.. lol to me if the Rustler was really worth getting, there would be more where I race, and at the moment there are none.
-Drkmstr104

[t44ever]

its been said before its thedriver

the truck has a little to do with it but not as much as the above factor!

[Steve323]

Ill admit the t4 and other trucks are more upgradeable but you can still do alot to a rustler lol. Ill also admit traxxas isnt really a "Racing company" and the rustler isnt really meant to race.

[Drkmstr104]

Yea that is very true... you can own the best truck out there with all the upgrades and hop ups and lose if you suck at driving ^_^ ... I started to clean my T4 the other night and I looked at my LRP speed control: 13 turn motors and up super reverse AI, the one that comes with the RTR SE T4, and I took off the heatsink ... I discovered that there is a kinda rubbery...silicone ish... plasticky piece that fits over the transistors and into the heatsink! Its impeding alot of the heat transfer between the transistors and the heatsink... its like insulating the heat, lol and there was a bunch of dust and sand in there too, so now what I do to get the most heat transfer is take an old tooth brush and brush off the sand... it seems to work better for transferring heat, and I do this every 2 to 3 runs because it gets pretty dirty, lol this might be useful for the others that have what I have, keep everything running longer! Im curious to know... what stock motor do you guys have for racing? Im using a Reedy MVP 24 degree timed 27 turn stock motor. And what ESC's and Servos do you guys have? Lol im triyng to get an idea of what people like and dont like and stuff that works and doesnt work. Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[t44ever]

hey drkmstr- did u ever get that gliching problem solved?

[Drkmstr104]

Haha yea, I had to switch back to my bad servo... the one that I put in sucked too much juice from the ESC... so now im on the lookout for a new servo that has high speed, digital, coreless motor, and 110 ounce inches of torque or so... O_o I just want awesome steering... but I also dont want my ESC to get overwhelmed...

[t44ever]

thats weird the servo that i have (the stock one) has awesome steering! i guess that might be that i am comming off of a rustler with really crappy steering!

[Drkmstr104]

Lol there are soo many friggin servos out there and you have to find the one that is right for you and meets your needs. Part of the key to being a good driver is having awesome cornering speed, especially on the track that I race at. I need one that can hold my turns ... and one that turns fast. My friend had one that was pretty good, the futaba s9404, but be accidentally burned it out. The thing about that one though is the fact that it didnt really hold the turns correctly... BUT it was fastttt!!!! it was soo fast that it responds the instant you turn the wheel, when you turn the wheel on your transmitter the servo is already there! like realtime steering.. and on his transmitter, the springs on the steering wheel are a little looser than average, so when you turn it to one side and let go, it rocks back and forth with it! I want one that turns as fast as that one did, and I also need a bit of torque to keep up with the resistance of the wheels wanting to straighten out... thats why my JR z590m i s a bad buy.... lol if any of you are thinking of getting it, think again, theres better out there for cheaper... mainly on ebay lozl....
-Drkmstr104

[B L A D E]

How fast is the t4rs? I have asked arround and I cant find anyone who knows the speed of these cars. I am running gp 3300's (not from radio shack) and do you have anyidea how fast my stock t4 is going? Just wondering thanks! -Blade

[Drkmstr104]

How fast is the t4rs? I have asked arround and I cant find anyone who knows the speed of these cars. I am running gp 3300's (not from radio shack) and do you have anyidea how fast my stock t4 is going? Just wondering thanks! -Blade
On the AE website, they claim the stock version of the T4 (with a 27 turn motor, or with the 15 turn stock motor some come with... and 17 too lol... and 19 turn as well lolz...) go about 25 MPH top speed. If you want to race mod, a Novak 4.5 turn motor can easily bring the top speed up to about 50mph. All of the top speed ratings vary, depending on how much voltage your batteries are putting out, how efficient the speed control is, and pinion and spur gear settings. I use the stock pinion gear from AE (20 tooth) with all stock 27 turn motors. I dont know how many teeth are on the spur gear... The GP 3300 Mah Ni-MH batteries are pretty good for stock racing, and are pretty much a bare minimum for mod racers, I have similar batteries, they are essentially the same as your 3300's, I have the reedy 3300's matched also made from Golden Phophet cells, except mine arent a stick pack. The 3300 mAh rating refers to how much capacity the batteries have. The Higher the mAh rating is, the longer you can race without recharging. BEWARE of your motor heat when using anything above 1600mAh!!! Make sure that you check your motor's heat after every 3-5 mins at least, use the touch test, and it is nice to have a fan around to blow the heat away, let your batteries cool down before recharging too, I use a fan for that as well. Also, your top speed can vary depending on how worn your brushes are, brushes vary in performance, the ones that contain silver transfer energy better, and if they are solder on brushes that makes it even higher. Your tire diameter also plays a role in top speed, the bigger they are in diameter; the higher the top speed is, the lower the diameter of em is; the higher your acceleration is. There is really alot to it!
-Drkmstr104

[B L A D E]

I thought the t4 was supposed to go into the 30's? Is that all a lie? And whare exactly on AE does it show that it goes 25? Can you please give me a link with proof I have looked everywhare and I cant find them. Also I dont get it you pay $200 for a car then $250 for a brushless systym :mad: . Well I guess I have no choise to keep up with my dads new rusty. Do you have a link to the brushless systyme you were talking about? -Blade

[Drkmstr104]

http://teamnovak.com/products/brushless/velociti4.5/index.html <-- theres the link to the 4.5 novak motor lol, its pretty expensive, but brushless motors have alot of advantages over brushed motors... mainly the fact that brushless motors are maintainence free, lol and you dont have to replace the brushes every few races. The link to the part where they state the speed is missing >=( lol I cant find it ... they used to have a FAQ section for it! The thing about brushless motors is that they are expensive!!! so are the speed controls for them... but you dont have a commutator to cut, brushes to replace, and you dont have to worry about cleaning em out every 3-5 runs. All in all, get it if you can afford it, otherwise just do stock racing! Stock racing is fun, I enjoy it alot, and its alot less expensive than racing a brushed mod motor too... on mod motors you need to cut the com every 4 runs or so and replace the brushes pretty much each time the race is over. You shoudl race stock if you are just starting out too, mod racing comes after you get good at racing stock. I think that with some stock motors out there, the T4 can reach 30 mph, BUT when you are racing stock you dont necessarily want a high top speed, you want to have more acceleration, this is where more torque and lower RPM play their part. I use a Reedy MVP 27 turn motor with 24 degree timing, it has a little of both (high torque and resonable rpm). There are alot of trinity motors out there as well that have great ratings as well.
-Drkmstr104

[Steve323]

The FT T4 Kit comes with an unpainted body right? Also, what size hex drivers do you need to build the kit? What other tools also? And does it come with tire glue and shock oil? Sorry about all the ?'s, but ive never built a kit before and am curius. Ive read that the allen wrenches that come with kits are garbage and want to make sure I have all the right tools.

[Drkmstr104]

Im not sure about the unpainted bodies, lol you would have to look at the kit specs, when you start racing you find out that you need all sorts of tools, do you intend to race? My T4 RTR SE kit didnt come with glue, or shock oil.. but you can get that at the hobby shop for a decent price, its not expensive, and you want to make sure you get the right weight of shock oil too. The hex wrenches that came with my T4 were not verey good, lol in fact they are hard to use compared to some of the other tools out there and can stip out some of the screws. I purchased a decent hex driver set for about $30... however you will find out that you need the ones they give you as well as the bigger hex drivers dont fit into some areas on the vehicle. The Team Integy hex tool kit is a pretty good deal, thats what I have and im glad I got it. The Factory Team T4 kit may be a good pick for you, depending on if you want the truck assembled, or if you want to build it your self. The RTR kits come with just about everything, except batteries for the car and transmitter batteries, and the charger for the car batteries. The factory team kit doesnt come with batteries, a transmitter, speed control, pinion gear, reciever, charger, servo, or a motor. A speed control with few features retails for $90 in hobby shops, a Transmitter that has 2 channels is cheaper than a 3 channel system, a 3 channel system, such as a JR XR3 retails for $100. A servo is hard to pick, it depends on what you need, high speed, or high torque, or both. I reccomend a servo that has high speed and resonable torque, the Hitec HS-925mg is pretty good, or so I have heard, and has metal gears too, which helps with replacing servos with nylon gears. Dynamite makes a good charger that runs for about $40, you can charge your batteries at 1 amps, 2 amps, or 4 amps, and power the charger with a car battery if you dont have an electrical outlet available. Batteries can be expensive, but not if yuo know where to look. Alot of people have found the 3300mah GP batteries from Radio Shack are the best deal for $30 or so. For a motor, I recomend the Reedy MVP 24 degree timed Stock 27 turn motor, pretty high rpm and pretty high torque. You will also need Deans Ultra plugs (1 to 2 of em... depending if you want the battery pack to have a deans ultra plug along with the motor), which beat the crap out of bullet connectors, you will need a soldering iron with solder of your choice, I prefer rosin core solder, and get some flux if needed. A phillips head screw driver is good to have, along with a flat head too. Wet noodle wire is pretty good, its 12 gague and I use it from the speed control to the motor. Make sure that your transmitter and reciever have the same frequency crystals, unless you want a synthesized radio system. Spare tires are good too, they can be expensive as well, so I go on ebay for those. Ebay is a good place to go to if you want some less expensive parts that operate fairly well. The pinion gear that works well with the T4 and just about all stock motors would be a 20 tooth one. If you are looking for a tire that lasts a long time and has awesome grip, go with the Team Losi reptiles. Other materials would be a needle nose plier, CA glue or super glue, heat shrink tubing, and a hobby knife. I think thats pretty much it O_o... feel free to ask more questions, no matter how dumb or noobish they may sound lol.
-Drkmstr104

[Steve323]

Thanks, I was just wondering what the kit came with. I have a ft tc3 (Bought used) and a Traxxas Rustler. I already have a decent set of hex drivers so I was wondering about the glue oil and body because its a kit. Im preety sure that it comes with oil and a unpainted body, but was just checking.

[Drkmstr104]

Lol always good to check, you sounded new to the system, so i wanted to make sure...but I did get carried away a bit lol.. how fast does your TC3 go? Ive seen videos of the mod ones and they are fasst!

[Steve323]

I have two motors, a speed gems 15t and a fantom stock racing motor. I usually use the stock motor unless im just running outside or something but with the 15t itll hit 40 probably.

EDIT: I have the hex drivers u mentioned and what a difference they made from my cheapos lol. Good price too compared to the associated ones

[Drkmstr104]

yea, half the price to be precise lol... theres alot of tools out there that are WAAY over priced!

[ErikRC10]

yes the FT T4 comes with and unpainted body and shock oil. It comes with no tire glue though that is something you will need to purchase else where. I doubt your 15T motor will hit 40mph but it might hit around the 35 range.

[t44ever]

does anybody know what the speed of the t4 rtr is stock?

[GTB_USER_ERIK]

Does anyone know where to find a winning setupsheet?????????????

[Drkmstr104]

My T4 rtr se stock goes maybe 25-30 tops... but after the stock stuff wears down (motor, tires, brushes, etc) and you replace em, it vaires... batteries too

[t44ever]

thanks drkmstr

i have one more question on my motor (the stock associated 15 turn) after about 5-8 minuets the negitavie wire that connects to the motor becomes un soldered! now i am going to check this later because it is really hot outside and that could be half of the cause

and also on the side where the capacitors placed and on the opposite side there is a hole but no screw? i think there should be one though
am i wrong?

thanks in advance and if i need to reword it i can or if you need pics i will try to get some

[Drkmstr104]

thanks drkmstr

i have one more question on my motor (the stock associated 15 turn) after about 5-8 minuets the negitavie wire that connects to the motor becomes un soldered! now i am going to check this later because it is really hot outside and that could be half of the cause

and also on the side where the capacitors placed and on the opposite side there is a hole but no screw? i think there should be one though
am i wrong?

thanks in advance and if i need to reword it i can or if you need pics i will try to get some

that has never happened to me.. yet lol, I had the same motor though and I melted the silicone arund the bullet connectors at one point. I got rid of those bullet connectors and that helped... but you want to make sure that you have the gap between the pinion gear and the spur gear set right, 2 thousandths of an inch. you can do this by running a piece of printer paper through the teeth to set the gap. 5 minutes is the race time at the track, and anything past that is pushing the heat on the motor. I rigged the motor plate with a chipset cooler that I hacked, so that cools it down a bit, but you wanna put a fan on your motor after every 5 mins, blow the heat off of it. another thing you might wanna check would be the solder connection, make sure its clean (put flux on it) before you solder to ensure that the connection will remain soldered. and yea, there is a hole with no screw in it below the capicitor, and on the other side too... lol i dono why but there is. And that motor cant be opened up to be cleaned, so now I have iron filing and other magnetic soil particles stuff stuck in the vents and possibly in the motor can. Id suggest that you get a new motor, but you do what you want. Hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

oh, and what gague of wire are you using? I reccomend 12 gague wet noodle wire..

[t44ever]

im just using the stock stuff so what ever that is

i think im going to change to deans anyway so i will do the motor to

thanks drkmstr

[microrcdude]

yeah move to deans, much better and the car actually runs better with those rather than the stock plugs. Also a great wire to use (if you ever need it) is Deans Wet Noodle wire or Orion's wires.

[Drkmstr104]

Yea deans ultra plugs are a must, so is their 12 gague wire lol. Im going to switch over to ultra plugs for the battery, I am already using em for the motor to the speed controller, but first I have to make an adapter for my charger lol. Id suggest a few things to get as near future replacements for the T4 RTR SE. First off, the rear tires they give you pretty much suck and wear down after 10 runs, I found that at the racetrack for practice I couldnt turn corners without sliding out! The tires that are included for the front have lasted me a long time, I stil have em and Ive been through a 7 races and quite a few practice runs in my back yard (i made a track =D), you wont need to replace the fronts for a while. The back tires need to be replaced in a bit, I dont know how often you run you T4, but avoid asphalt! Asphalt eats up tires like nothing else and you will replace more and more tires. I got lucky and purchased a Lot of tires on ebay, I payed for 22 tires and rims, some of the tires werent usable, others are perfectly fine and have another 20 races or so left on em, I lucked out and got this deal for $34.70! Rims alone are pretty expensive, I think my hobby shop sells em for $10 a pair, and tires for $15 a pair. If you are looking for some tires that last long and have really good grip, go with the Team Losi reptiles, Ive used em for all my racing and they have lasted at least 5 times longer than the stock ones that come with the T4 (and they still have plenty of grip!) alot of people go ith the losi kingpins, but those wont last as long, if I were you id have to go with the Losi Reptiles. The next thing you will need to replace might be the servo, the servo that you have for steering has nylon gears, and being a beginner I stripped a gear after like 8 runs. I bought the JR Z590M, and found it to be a waste of money. Later on I discovered that my speed controller (LRP AI super reverse 13 turns and up) was causing part of the problem. That is the ESC you have too, or so im guessing, and it only puts out 5 vots to the servo! After hooking that servo into my friend's Novak Atom ESC, it worked awesome because it gives it 6 volts... In a while I will get my new servo, the Hitec HS-925mg, which might work alot better, Ill give a report once I recieve it and tell of its workings lol. Another thing you might have to replace are the turnbuckles. I went with the upgraded titanium turnbuckles, and I bought 2 of em, I only broke one of the stock steel ones and thas all I replaced. The titanium ones are worth it, but expensive nonetheless. Ive gone through $30 in front A-Arms, and Id suggest that there are aluminum ones on ebay for $20 that will probably last ALOT longer than any of the carbon or stock arms. As for motors, alot of people like to go with Trinity because its a brand name that is known better than others. I race with the Reedy MVP 27 turn motor, and it has set timing at 24 degrees, ive had the best results with this motor. Alot of people like the trinity P2k Pro, and It is a pretty good motor, but it has low rpm compared to some others. Id reccomend getting the MVP because it has a combination of elements that is right for just about any track. Choose something that is good for your track, if you want to race anyway. Hope this helps, and good luck!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

http://www.rc-touringcars.net/reviews_stock.php here is a link that I think everyone should look at before getting a stock motor! It shows Dyno results of 3 motors, the Reedy MVP, the P2K pro, and the monster horsepower. I found this at one point, and forgot to bookmark it and ive been looking for it ever since.
-Drkmstr104

[RControl Freak]

How good is the radio gear on the RTR version? I've heard that it comes with a metal geared steering servo.

[Associated-08]

Dont worry about that bro, buy it then by a new motor.

[Drkmstr104]

The radio gear that came with my T4 works, but isnt all that great. It came with an airtronics servo with nylon gears, not metal, and the radio is the Airtronics Blazer Sport. Both need to be replaced eventually, I replaced the servo and now im looking for a new transmitter as well. The transmitter doesnt entirely suck, but it is analogue so it is harder to fine tune, and with a Novak Atom speed controller mine has like 1 cm of leeway before the car responds (when pulling the throttle trigger).
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

The radio gear that came with my T4 works, but isnt all that great. It came with an airtronics servo with nylon gears, not metal, and the radio is the Airtronics Blazer Sport. Both need to be replaced eventually, I replaced the servo and now im looking for a new transmitter as well. The transmitter doesnt entirely suck, but it is analogue so it is harder to fine tune, and with a Novak Atom speed controller mine has like 1 cm of leeway before the car responds (when pulling the throttle trigger).
-Drkmstr104

[RControl Freak]

Isn't that the old SE version? I'm looking at the T4RS (Race Spec). It comes with the Associated XP2, and the listing says it has a metal gear steering servo. :confused:

[GTB_USER_ERIK]

RControl Freak;
Next to to the Factory Team edition, this truck the RaceSpec, is race ready, but you will need to replace the motor with some thing a little hotter ;)

[GTB_USER_ERIK]

Please :( . does anyone have a GOOD Set-up sheet for the T4 :confused:

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Hi, does anyone know if IB4200 stick packs, or IB4200 side x side packs fit in the team t4 without mods?

[Drkmstr104]

Isn't that the old SE version? I'm looking at the T4RS (Race Spec). It comes with the Associated XP2, and the listing says it has a metal gear steering servo. :confused:

Yea, I have the T4 RTR SE, there is one guy at my track that has the race spec, I should ask him next week what kind of servo it comes with and how well it performs. Even if the servo has metal gears, it could still suck lol. When buying a servo, you need to look at 4 things; price, torque, gears, and speed.
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

Please :( . does anyone have a GOOD Set-up sheet for the T4 :confused:
What do you mean by setup sheet? Like a good setup for the T4? (i.e tires, motors, esc's, transmitters, servos, etc.) OR a sheet that shows how to assemble the T4? Or neither o_O?
-Drkmstr104

And Tamiya4x4dryver, do you know what the dimensions are on that stick pack? If you can give me the measurements, I could figure out if they will fit or not. Are you looking at the ones from Tower Hobbies?
-Drkmstr104

[winning edge designs]

Drkmstr104: servos; But, imo, I would put price as the last criteria, since meeting your needs is the most important factor, :D!


GTB User, check out the set up sheets at RC10B4 dot com and you'll see alot of the fastes guys have theirs up on the site.

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[GTB_USER_ERIK]

Winning Edge_-;

Thank you. This is just what I was looking for.
Peace and good will to you ;)

[RControl Freak]

Yea, I have the T4 RTR SE, there is one guy at my track that has the race spec, I should ask him next week what kind of servo it comes with and how well it performs. Even if the servo has metal gears, it could still suck lol. When buying a servo, you need to look at 4 things; price, torque, gears, and speed.
-Drkmstr104

Hey, at least that there's a chance of it being a DURABLE crappy servo! :D

[winning edge designs]

No problem, anytime!

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net