Associated T4

[RControl Freak]

There are alot of good transmitters right now. Top of the line is the new Futaba that alot of the team guys use, I forget the name, but it has the LED screen on the side where your arm comes under it.
Next top end choice, Air M11, very well known.

For best bang for the buck, I use a JR XS3 Pro, since it is synthesized, no crystals, :)!


....Jim
Jconcepts dot net

The radio you're referring to is the Futaba 3PK. Too expensive for me. Another pro radio is the JR Z-1. I actually considered a M11, as a altenative to getting a whole bunch of radios, but rather using the M11 as a universal controller, and getting a bunch of recievers, at different frequencies! :D

[microrcdude]

JR Racing's Spektrum model is killer! gotta use one the other day and MAN was it an awesome system

[t44ever]

here is a pic of my T4 whadya think?

[t44ever]

another

[microrcdude]

looks really clean! i know a real good tut to make them wires look really well, maybe ill post it

[t44ever]

ya id like to see that

[T-Maxxahol]

anyone know what the motor limit for the AI speedo that comes with the new RTR RS

[t44ever]

it is 17 turns

[RControl Freak]

No, its 15 turns, not 17

[slink]

The LRP automatic super reverse digital ESC is rated to over 13 turns according to the manual. So 14 turn + motors.

[T-Maxxahol]

jeesh.. touchy question.. IC :)

[ben06]

can anyone tell me why my t4 does not handel well with a mod bigger than a 19?
I have tried every thing i can think of but nothing seems to work.

HELP!

[slink]

ben06

I think you need to give better information for anyone to be able to help you.
Define not handleing well...Pushing in turns? Rear end loose? what type of surface are you driving on? Hard dirt? loose dirt? Pavement???? What tires are you using?

[ben06]

sorry about that lack of info. It is a hard dirt track and it is a combo of both . the tires are proline blade on front and proline eviltwins on the rear.

[T-Maxxahol]

ai digital.. tower lists this as a 10 + turn speedo..
If I got the right speedo.. thats awesome for a stock RTR

[slink]

T-Maxxahol thats a different ESC.
The RTR comes with #83200 (super reverse).over 13 turns
You are looking at #83250 (pro reverse) over 10 turns
Also available is #83370 (bullet reverse) No motor limit
All 3 of these ESC's look nearly if not completely identical.
If you look closely at the ESC that came in your T4 you will see right above the word digital it says super reverse.


Ben06 One more important fact Define not handleing well.Pushing in corners? spinning out? Most handling problems the best place to start is with tires.

[ben06]

it pushes the front as i enter the corner then the rear gets lose and spins out. I have
tryed two types of fronts and three types of rear tires and still it does the same
thing.

[T-Maxxahol]

thanks slink... too many, too close, too soon......lol
still pretty good at 13+

[microrcdude]

it pushes the front as i enter the corner then the rear gets lose and spins out. I have
tryed two types of fronts and three types of rear tires and still it does the same
thing.
try running what everyone else runs. Also what body/motor are you using?

[RControl Freak]

it pushes the front as i enter the corner then the rear gets lose and spins out. I have
tryed two types of fronts and three types of rear tires and still it does the same
thing.

it may not be all the set-up. You do know that when u drive with a high powered rear wheel drive car, u have to use finess and roll the throttle rather than jerking it to wide open. try braking before turns and taking it slow, and maybe it will get better.

[slink]

Ben06
RControl Freak said it! It sounds like a throttle control issue.As painful and difficult as it is we all have to slow for corners:)

[microrcdude]

yeah, im usually on full brakes going into most corners. If you have reverse, you wont be able to use brake very well

[TunaCan Charlie]

thanks slink... too many, too close, too soon......lol
still pretty good at 13+

Yah, I wish I hadn't burned mine out after just 90 seconds running it outside in a RC10B4 RS.... :(

[Drkmstr104]

it pushes the front as i enter the corner then the rear gets lose and spins out. I have
tryed two types of fronts and three types of rear tires and still it does the same
thing.

Where is your battery placed in your truck? Towards the front steering servo, or towards the motor? Battery placement has alot to do with this, I found out that if you place the battery all to way towards the servo, you will have better handling. Also, how tight is your slipper clutch set at? Usually when I spin out at corners, its due to poor traction at the track, or poor tires, to get the full amount of traction on a hard surface track, use the red type of tire... the silver ones dont have enough grip... but they do last longer... what type of foam are you using in your rear tires? When going into a turn, try to take it slow and easy, if you rush it too much you will probably loose control...analyze how people take turns at your track and make a decision based on that.
Hope this helps...
-Drkmstr104

[KRMit]

I followed the assembly instructions in the Factory Team kit and then installed 25 degree castor blocks and inline axles. It handles very well with this setup and with the battery pack towards the front it turns pretty good too.

If anyone else is running the inline axles, the ball cups on the steering linkage are rubbing on the rims. How do you get around this?

[ben06]

It is not a throttle control thing. the truck handels the same way for three diffrent
drivers i will try moveing the battery and seeing if that helps

thanks for the idea

[microrcdude]

oh yeah, whats the suspension like on your truck? really stiff?

[Mystracing]

My best guess is, If it's not a driving issue, it's probably the result of a mismatch between the shock oil and the spring on the front end. If you have heavy shock oil or really small piston holes and soft springs on the front it will cause the truck to push initially because of slow front end reaction due to heavy oil. As the truck goes through the corner the front is then allowed to roll over too much by the soft spring causing it to hook with the front tires and spin.

A similar situation can occur from having an overly stiff rear suspension with a soft front suspension. Excessive suspension limiting in the rear of the truck or a tight diff can also cause what you describe. Without knowing what setup you are running it's pretty much impossible to make a really good guess.

[RControl Freak]

Try running 30 weight oil both in the back and the front, and use silver associated springs for the front, and green for the rear.

If it was the tires any, try Proline M3 Edge's in the front, and Proline M3 Holeshot's in the rear.

[Drkmstr104]

While we are on the subject of shocks O_o... ish... what does regular shock maintainence include? I always forget to ask that at the track...
Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[winning edge designs]

I drain out the old oil, clean everything with an old toothbrush, very carefully(no dirt into shock). It is best to clean the entire shock as an assembly first, especially if it is really dirty, then again in parts.
Fill with new oil, work the piston to remove air under it, top again to just below full, assemble and bleed as usual.

I only change o-rings if the shock is noticably leaking "more then normal"(they always leak a tiny bit).

*Also, look closely at the shaft for wear(patch areas were the O-rings ride) inspect the cap o-ring and shock end bushings while it is apart for excess end play.

All done, :), Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[josh79]

it will never handel like my losi little brother nice try

[Mystracing]

....... and that can only be a good thing. j/k

[ben06]

i am running 30wt oil in both but i am running green in front and blue on the rear .
I wil try switching them and see if that helps

[Mystracing]

That should take care of it. The front and rear springs aren't intended to be swapped back and forth. The front springs of the same color are stiffer, ie a green front is stiffer than a green rear. Because of the suspension geometry giving more leverage on the front shock; the wheel rate is lighter effectively making the front suspension softer but the front spring itself is stiffer. Typically you want to run green rears and silver fronts with 30 weight. If the truck pushes excessively after you put blues on the front you might consider using the stock silvers on the front.

[ben06]

That is what i am going to use {the silver in front and green in rear**

[RControl Freak]

hopefully that should do it. :D

[ArmySapper]

Hi all, I just ordered a RC10T4 and I'm trying to buy batteries. Going to start with NIMH then work my way up to LiPo. (Budget) Can anyone tell me what kind of room I have to work with?

[dustyRC10]

If your on a budget, i'd go to your local radio shack store, and picke up the 3300 batteries, or order them from the online store.If you look in the electric threads, you'll see many folks have reccomended them for price/performance for bashing.. I don't know much about the lipo's im afraid

[ArmySapper]

Actually I'm currently in Iraq. So going down to a local Radio Shack will be a little bit difficult. I was actually wondering about the size of the battery tray in the stock T4 RTR chassis.

[slink]

The battery tray in the T4 is 6 1/2IN X 1 7/8 IN.

[ArmySapper]

Thank you so very much!

[slink]

Right back at ya ! Thank you sir for defending the freedom I enjoy everyday.Its comforting to know you guys are getting to have at least a little fun while in the sandbox.

[ArmySapper]

Any hobby out here makes the time go by somewhat faster. My roomate actualy started a hobby club out here for the other troops here at Al Kisik. www.ipmsusa.org

[conundrum]

Actually I'm currently in Iraq. So going down to a local Radio Shack will be a little bit difficult. I was actually wondering about the size of the battery tray in the stock T4 RTR chassis.

If there anything I can send please let me know............

[ArmySapper]

I'm looking into buying new tires and another body for my T4. How do I shop for those? Anything in particular I should be looking for?

[KRMit]

Just get a Proline T4 body.

The tires depend on where you are running it. Typically the tighter the tread pattern the better it is for hard pack and worse for loose stuff. Step-pins are good all-around as long as you don't run them on the asphalt.

[ArmySapper]

Actually I've never bought tires before. So actually to clarify my question, what do I look for? I understand what patterns go on what type of conditions. I meant do all tires fit on the rims my truck came with? Or if I decide to get new rims, is there a specific size that would accommodate my T4?

[calyakker]

Unless you want to try to get the tires you have now unglued from the rims, just get new rims and tires. You're looking for any 2.2" tire for your T4. You'll need rims specific to your T4 but any 2.2 tire will fit. Check out www.towerhobbies.com. There's lots to choose from. Hope this helps.

[ArmySapper]

Wow, that helped out a lot! Thanks! How about buying a body?

[KRMit]

This is the Proline T4 body.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFNF6&P=

It has marked locations for the body mounts and all that so it's the easiest to fit, but you can really make just about any body fit if you want. Just get some rattlecans and have at it!

[calyakker]

You should also check out jconcepts. The Illuzion body is the best looking body out there in my opinion.
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/product_info.php/cPath/34/products_id/75

[USATorque55]

How are the illuzion bodies? Can they take abuse like a pro-line?

I recently bought a Losi Mini-T body and instantly regretted it because of the imperfections in it, there were marks in the body already. I miss my pro-line crowd pleazer(too bad its discontinued).


I just got my Factory Team T4, was planning on putting a BK Warrior 9920 into it with a Feigao 8L but realizing that the motor required too many cells, I ordered a Feigao 8s from starluck.

I sold my MF2 for a touring car, and had to buy another ST because I missed it. So I have the FT T4.

[calyakker]

I have the illuzion body for my T4 and really like it. They're the same thickness lexan as the proline but they're a little cheaper. I think I paid $20 for mine. They'll also custome paint it for you if you want for a fee.

[Scattershot]

Just got my FT t4 and glanced over the instructions. Is there anything I should be aware of before I tackle the beast? BTW.. I got a T4 RTR for my dad.. anything i should know for that as well.

Thanks,

Mike

[dustyRC10]

Take your time and if you want to give it a nice look, sand the tabs from the part that connected it to the part tree's. I used a dremmal, but i know not everyone has one, you could use small wirecutters to trip the pieces up in that case.The only other tip i can think of is while putting the tranny together. While assembling the thrust bearing, put a few gobs of the black grease on the washer so the six balls will stay put while inserting into the diff. Have fun

[KRMit]

Just follow the instructions and there's nothing to it. Take your time and be prepared for you hands to cramp up. lol

[ArmySapper]

I'm still having problems shopping for wheels for my T4. Do they have a 3 piece for the T4? Don't know what to look for as far buying the wheel that fits.

[calyakker]

What kind of wheel are you looking for? Tower has associated wheels for the T4 as well as Proline Velocity dish wheels in white and yellow or RPM as well. Just look through the wheels/tires sections for 1/10 scale and find the ones that fit the T4 that you like. If you want a basic white or yellow dish wheel, get the prolines, they're only $5.99/pr. Below are examples. Make sure you buy a rear and front set.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDX0&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW22&P=
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW23&P=
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMSY3&P=
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMSY3&P=

[RControl Freak]

pretty much any stadium truck wheel will fit the T4, since most wheels are designed around it!

[calyakker]

pretty much any stadium truck wheel will fit the T4, since most wheels are designed around it!

Yes and no. You have to be careful with the offsets. Some are different than others and if you choose the wrong ones you can throw handling out the window. Losi wheels for example will fit the T4 but will make it narrower than T4 wheels.

[ArmySapper]

well i'm just looking for soemthing other than the stock dish wheel look. The wheel si've seen that team associated makes and from what i've seen they're all the dish style. Also when I order the wheels I'd like to get it right the first time around, it takes mail about 2 weeks to reach me, and if had to return it, I would be looking at a while to get a set of wheels that work. Thank you all for the suggestions!

[RControl Freak]

Yes and no. You have to be careful with the offsets. Some are different than others and if you choose the wrong ones you can throw handling out the window. Losi wheels for example will fit the T4 but will make it narrower than T4 wheels.


I'd just as well stick with Proline, they've got enough crap to keep me happY! :D

[Z-Rider]

Hey all,

just picked up a roller T4 from a LHS in trade for an ESC. I have it set-up with my 5800 brushless and need to know a good starting point on the pinion gear. I have the 87 tooth spur on it now. Just looking for a good over all ratio as it is just for bashing, not gonna race it.

Thanks in advance.
Z-Rider

[KRMit]

Gearing really depends on where you run. Just try a gear and if it thermals you are too high. That shouldn't hurt anything. A 15 or 17 tooth pinion is probably about right though.

[Scattershot]

I just bought a new RTR T4 and ran it at my local track. Down the back straightaway it loose s power/reception but down the front straightaway is has all the power it needs. I found this on the RC10.com wesite:


I just got this kit brand new, with the XP2 radio it came with i only get 30 feet range then it starts glitching out crazy and i have no control. i bought toy grade RC cars before and they got like triple the range of this. i didn't spend $320 CND for it to cut out at 30 feet range.. any help would be strongly appreciated! Thanks

Check the motor - you should have three capacitors on the motor. I will go ahead and send you some to install. Just send your address. To verify this you can also try a different motor just to be sure that it is the motor causing the problem.

If it is the capacitor.. 1) what do they look like(a dumb question i know.. but still) and 2) if it is not.. could it be the receiver or something else..

BTW the truck is stock.

Thanks,

Mike

[RControl Freak]

Are you sharing the frequency with someone at your track? I've had it happen before! IT SUCKS!!!! :D

[vaderbxman]

I just bought a new RTR T4 and ran it at my local track. Down the back straightaway it loose s power/reception but down the front straightaway is has all the power it needs. I found this on the RC10.com wesite:


I just got this kit brand new, with the XP2 radio it came with i only get 30 feet range then it starts glitching out crazy and i have no control. i bought toy grade RC cars before and they got like triple the range of this. i didn't spend $320 CND for it to cut out at 30 feet range.. any help would be strongly appreciated! Thanks

Check the motor - you should have three capacitors on the motor. I will go ahead and send you some to install. Just send your address. To verify this you can also try a different motor just to be sure that it is the motor causing the problem.

If it is the capacitor.. 1) what do they look like(a dumb question i know.. but still) and 2) if it is not.. could it be the receiver or something else..

BTW the truck is stock.

Thanks,

Mike


Associated has had to make a recall on all of their RC T4's because they only has 1 capacitor somewhere. I read it in the issue that came after their big 6 truck comparo. Read on:

"an early batch of T4's have left the factory with only one capacitor attached on the motor. Bummer!"

It doesn't say how to fix it, or where to get replacements, but at least associated knows there's something wrong here. Call their customer service and they might be able to help.

[Scattershot]

I found an article about it in one of my recent RCCARACTION mag along wth instructions on how to fix it from RC10.com. I went to my local hobby shop and the fixed it for me. This is a know problem and thanks for everyone's input.

[RControl Freak]

thank god for hobby shops!!! :D

[badmojo13]

ok I'm running my t4 on a short tight track. 19 seconds is a fast lap. what gearing would I use with the 87tooth spur gear for a Reedy Spec 19T Quad-Mag Motor. also on the same track what would I use for a peak raven s 10t double. thanks in advance

[microrcdude]

What surface is the track? Is there alot of 180 degree turns, or more 90 degree?

[RControl Freak]

Does your track have a website?

[badmojo13]

yes
here are some pics and videos of a race there yesterday. the track service varies on the temperatures outside. it goes from slick to tacky.
heres the website
http://www.rjdhobbiesandraceway.com/rjd-index.htm
here are the pictures I took, most of the guys are using brushless systems, so it makes it difficult to try and keep up
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1106.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1105.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1104.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1103.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1102.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1101.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1100.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1099.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1098.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1097.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1096.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1095.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1094.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/badmojo1/100_1091.jpg

[microrcdude]

18t would be a good starting point. You might want to move to 17t also

[dustyRC10]

i'd go with 20 as a good starting point. If you had the 83 or 81 tooth spur, i'd agree that 17 or 18, but i think with a large spur gear like you have, it would top out too quickly for that track. 20 probably would be to little too, but i think it would be good start.

[Drkmstr104]

LOLZ AWESOME!!! Barn Racing!! O_o does it get dusty indoors, lol also are nitro vehicles allowed to race... O_o I figured that indoor tracks would get filled with nitro exhaust and stuff..
-Drkmstr104

[microrcdude]

Most indoor tracks have fans that are turned on during nitro heats to blow the fumes out, and it gets dusty of not watered.

[badmojo13]

there thinking about doing 10th scale nitro on saturday nights, or 1/18th scale. but nothing more than that, not enough room there. they don't have exhaust fans either.
I geared the motor down last night to a 16t and it started smoking after a few minutes, I don't know what else to do here. the thing is I am missing the capicator for the esc, so maybe that could be part of it.

[dustyRC10]

16t is too small for that track. This may of be some help http://www.robinsonracing.com/gearratio.html Remember, Higher the number, the more torq, less speed, lower the number, less torq, more speed

[microrcdude]

your going to want acceleration. move to a 18 or 19t.

[badmojo13]

well I talk to the folks over at peak performance today and I'm going to send the motor back tommorrow. the guy over there said that I had it geared in the right range. I started with an 18t and the 2nd time I ran it the day it smoked, I moved to a 16t. so hopefully I get a new one.

[juntom10]

i will put mamba max 5700 to the T4..

whats the good turns of pinion with 87 spur gear?

[juntom10]

One more question...

can i use stock servo saver(t4) for hitec, futaba,airtronics servos?

[Drkmstr104]

One more question...

can i use stock servo saver(t4) for hitec, futaba,airtronics servos?

O_o yes... unless you are reffering to the servo horn, which in that case you can still use those servos, you just gotta buy the horns for them from your lhs. What servo were you thinking of gettin?

[juntom10]

O_o yes... unless you are reffering to the servo horn, which in that case you can still use those servos, you just gotta buy the horns for them from your lhs. What servo were you thinking of gettin?

I am looking for faster one...(i heard that high speed servo make control the 2wd truck much easier..)

but lots of high speed servos are very expensive...

[juntom10]

how about this one?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUS3&P=7

0.13sec, 7.4kg..

[Drkmstr104]

Nice! Metal gears are a must. In my T4 I have the hitec HS-925mg, which is REALLY fast, has metal gears, and workds great with either 5v or 6v BECs. I highly reccomend the hs-925mg, its great for off road or on. I looked all around for great servos, and I couldnt really find much that was price appealing. check out this servo comparison chart, and see what interests you. http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servochart.html . That page has alot of different servos, but the ones that fit in the T4 are standard, so stay away from micro ones. Also, another great servo that works great on the T4 is the Futaba S9404, it is discontinued, but I am currently hunting one up on ebay O_O lol. Also, what speed control do you have in your truck? The difference between 6v and 5v is incredible... I highly recomend Novak's ESC's, as LRP's esc's are only rated at 5v, and for the sphere that they have is 5.5volts... O_o lol alot goes into buying a good servo...
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

Oh~ thanks a lot~

i will put the mamba max for T4 FT

i can't wait!!!!

[Drkmstr104]

Lol brushless. Brushless is nice, but i think you can find a better esc for the price O_o 100 amps seems a little weak. I havnt raced with brushless yet, all of my stock motors are brushed, and my speed control puts out 480 amps O_O my B4 accelerates really fast, and I just bought another speed controller (exact same Novak Cyclone) for my T4, should arrive in a week or so... and I dont see the BEC rating for the mamba max O_o ill look into it lol but dont decide soo fast what you are gonna buy, in the long run thinking about whats available for the prices listed pays off.
-Drkmstr104

[rcfreak9]

lol look at the first entry to this forum!!! it was the t4 being released!! ancient...

[juntom10]

Lol brushless. Brushless is nice, but i think you can find a better esc for the price O_o 100 amps seems a little weak. I havnt raced with brushless yet, all of my stock motors are brushed, and my speed control puts out 480 amps O_O my B4 accelerates really fast, and I just bought another speed controller (exact same Novak Cyclone) for my T4, should arrive in a week or so... and I dont see the BEC rating for the mamba max O_o ill look into it lol but dont decide soo fast what you are gonna buy, in the long run thinking about whats available for the prices listed pays off.
-Drkmstr104
OMG!
480amps!!
what is that esc???

thats so powerful..

[Drkmstr104]

Haha teh Novak Cyclone ^_^ , I have the one with the purple label, and I just bought one with the green label. Check out their spec chart. http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc_specs/discont_specs/index.html
They have another ESC that is extremely powerful O_O 700 amps lol, the GTX which is listed on this page: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc_specs/racing/index.html
I put the cyclone in my B4 so far, im putting one in my T4 soon too, I used to have a Novak Atom in my T4, until my friend wanted it back lol O_o, It currently has the slow LRP ESC Super reverse in it, which is impossible to get a good rank on a race with (people were passing me because their accel was higher O_O so my position remained where I started out on... so I made the upgrade to the Cyclones, and my B4 is now extremely fast, Accel is incredible, and my brushes are lookin kinda burnt already lol.
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

oh..

thats hard to determine...

brushless vs brushed..

omg..:)

[USATorque55]

Didn't like not having a stadium truck after selling my MF2, so I traded the stripped down E-Maxx for an almost new Associated T4 Factory Team. Besides the fact that the guy was a total (insert explicative) and an (One more...), the truck was great.

Specs:
-Factory team(turnbuckles, graphite, alloy, shocks, tranny... blah blah all the good stuff)
-BK Warrior 9920
-Feigao 7s
-7 Cells
-JR RS300 synth(M8 Novak Synth)
-custom paint by me

Threw a bid on eBay for a body, ended up getting a NIP associated body for 13$ so I painted it up on christmas and here it is. This truck rocks.

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4772/hpim3356li4.jpg
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/508/hpim3358zs3.jpg

Body isn't decaled yet but you get the idea.

[Drkmstr104]

oh..

thats hard to determine...

brushless vs brushed..

omg..:)

haha I know what you mean... The brushless systems out there are really expensive, because less people have them and the systems require alot more than a simple speed control. I recently read an article on how brushless motors work, and its pretty ingenous! Its just an inside out version of a regular motor O_o with the windings on the inside of the motor can, and the magnets attached to the rotor, and in order to achieve brushless, its needs a microprocessor to control when to switch polarity...

Brushed motors are simple, and inexpensive, to some extent. Brushed motors require regular maintenence, so it makes it even more of a hobby to clean em, change brushes on em, solder parts on em O_o and you really learn alot just working with them. If you are going to race modified, I reccomend brushless because everything needs to be changed more often on a brushed mod motor; brushes, armatures, bushings (unless it has bearings), and the commutator has to be lathed after 5 runs or so. For stock racing, either 27 turn motors, or 19 turn, I reccomend brushed motors. But for modified, Brushless is the winner.
If you are just starting to get into rc, I would say that brushed motors are a good way to go, as you learn a great deal about mechanical and electrical properties of O_o stuff... lol, and they are cost effective. You can pay $80 for a good brushed system that will last for a long time and have high power output, or you can spend $300 for a fast brushless system, with no maintenence.
Just wondering... do you have a track that you can race at nearby? If you can, go there and watch people race stock and mod, for trucks and buggies, and see what interests you the most, thats what I did and I ended up with a T4 RTR SE haha.
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

8~9turn modified motor + GTX or QC3 is faster than mamba or novak brushless???(with 6cell nimh)

[Drkmstr104]

lol heres a tip, do not buy lrp's speed controllers! They are overpriced for what they do. The QC3 puts out 360 amps, has a motor limit of 5 and up, and for the first time Ive ever seen, a Bec with 6v and 3.5 amps. According to Horizon hobby, the will sell it new for about $200. The Novak Cyclone can be purchased on eBay for about $45 (because they are used/and/or older systems), no motor limit, has a bec of 6v and 3 amps, puts out 480 amps for foreward, and is overall a better value. I would buy the quantum if you wanted to race in the snow or rain O_o lolz as it is waterproof. Like I said, keep looking around for deals and value that most people overlook.
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

haha I know what you mean... The brushless systems out there are really expensive, because less people have them and the systems require alot more than a simple speed control. I recently read an article on how brushless motors work, and its pretty ingenous! Its just an inside out version of a regular motor O_o with the windings on the inside of the motor can, and the magnets attached to the rotor, and in order to achieve brushless, its needs a microprocessor to control when to switch polarity...

Brushed motors are simple, and inexpensive, to some extent. Brushed motors require regular maintenence, so it makes it even more of a hobby to clean em, change brushes on em, solder parts on em O_o and you really learn alot just working with them. If you are going to race modified, I reccomend brushless because everything needs to be changed more often on a brushed mod motor; brushes, armatures, bushings (unless it has bearings), and the commutator has to be lathed after 5 runs or so. For stock racing, either 27 turn motors, or 19 turn, I reccomend brushed motors. But for modified, Brushless is the winner.
If you are just starting to get into rc, I would say that brushed motors are a good way to go, as you learn a great deal about mechanical and electrical properties of O_o stuff... lol, and they are cost effective. You can pay $80 for a good brushed system that will last for a long time and have high power output, or you can spend $300 for a fast brushless system, with no maintenence.
Just wondering... do you have a track that you can race at nearby? If you can, go there and watch people race stock and mod, for trucks and buggies, and see what interests you the most, thats what I did and I ended up with a T4 RTR SE haha.
-Drkmstr104

oh..

i went local track one time.

and see lots of pics of that track's competition.

some people use LRP brushless, some are novak brushless, and other people are using modified.... many kinds of motors...

and i want to race at the local track and participate in the that competition.

i want to know just one thing..

brushless's instantaneous torque is as same as gtx or qc3 + modifed motor?

[Drkmstr104]

You have to keep in mind a few things, the lower the number of turns, the higher the rpm, so you get more speed, and a little bit lower accel. The Higher the turn, the more torque, and less rpm. If you are looking for speed, a GTX or a GT7, even a Cyclone wold be great for speed if combined with a good motor. Brushless is capable of higher rpm's than most brushed motors, but are alot more priced. The torque that your motor puts out depends on your speed control, so get a good ESC and a good motor, the speed will be just fine. The torque of what you mentioned could be about the same, but it really just depends on the setup that you have. And just a tip, dont start racing modified lolz, learn how to control your truck first and start out in stock. If you check out some of the motors out there, the orion revolutions are pretty good for running modified, and if you are looking for brushless, novak makes the preffered motors and esc's of many racers.
going fast is fun, but if you dont know how to control that vehicle, its gonna slam into stuff, and 30 mph into a barier vs 60mph into a barier can break alot more stuff. What were you thinking of for a setup? If you give me a few motors or speed controls I can probably figure out what would be best for a T4. Or even just things in your price range...
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

oh yea, nice paint job Torque55, how long did that take to do?
-Drkmstr104

[USATorque55]

Probably 2 hours start to finish.

What are some preferred tires for this truck? I can't keep my truck from spinning its tires...

GRP Blocks (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMXU7&P=7)
Panther Studs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNPS1&P=7)
Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=7)
Pro-Line Gladiators (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX67&P=7)

Only need rear tires. Want something low profile with good handling. Last time I ran dirt hawgs the truck drove so awkward it couldn't hold a line. I'm thinking Gladiators or the GRP Blocks. Don't want to kill the tires in a few runs from the BL. Running mostly on dirt and grass.

[badmojo13]

you could also run some pro line bow tie mt's

[microrcdude]

HPI also makes some nice 2.2" tires that work great with the T4, IMO better than pro-line's stuff.

[Drkmstr104]

It really depends on what surface you are driving on, for both front and back tires. If you are running in loose soil, I would reccomend Losi Reptiles for the rear, and proline Edge's. If you are running on a hard surface, I would go with Losi Taper Pin's for both the front and rear. Also consider what material you want them to be made out of, such as red material or silver (red is softer, and wears away much quicker, but provides more traction, and silver lasts longer, and has pretty reasonable grip). I have ran the losi reptiles (red material) on a hard track, and they worked just fine, but the losi taper pins seem to give the truck more grip all around if they are on both the front and the rear for a hard surface. Also consider what kind of foam inserts are in your tires as well, most of the stock foams work great for just about anything, but it might be worth getting some foams that have a slightly higher density than the stock foams do.

If you will just be running on grass and dirt, a good combination would probably be the Reptiles for the rear (red) and Proline Edges for the front (also red). Stock foams work great for grass and dirt, so those shouldnt really need changing.

Also, you mentioned that you had trouble with rear traction in general, make sure that your battery is placed all the way towards the rear, as this will provide more weight for the rear tires.

O_o Thats pretty much all I can think of to solve your problem... hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

finally, i ordered T4 FT kit + Novak GTB w/velocity 4.5R

i can't waitttttttttttt!

[BTE214]

Juntom congrats it is a great truck you'll be pleased with it im sure.
Drkmstr- Pro-line doesn't rate it's tires by color. Do you mean M3? I think that is the softest compound.

[USATorque55]

Ordered a set of M2 Gladiators(Less wear than M3, little less grip) and a set of rear rims.

We'll see how long they last.

[juntom10]

today i got hitec 965mg servo for T4 !(0.10sec, 10kg torque)

[Drkmstr104]

Juntom congrats it is a great truck you'll be pleased with it im sure.
Drkmstr- Pro-line doesn't rate it's tires by color. Do you mean M3? I think that is the softest compound.

whoops lol I guess not... The way that I have known the color codes for tires has always been that Red is softer (more traction, faster wear), and that silver compound is harder (less traction, less wear). If M3 is the softest compound, then yesh O_o lolz M3 would have more traction

[Drkmstr104]

today i got hitec 965mg servo for T4 !(0.10sec, 10kg torque)
Nice! Lol as long as your ESC puts out 6volts for the BEC you should be awesome in races O_O
I have the Hitec HS-925MG, soo fast (.08sec, 107 ounce in.) it works great for racing, as long as I can keep control of my truck lol. And its quiet too O_O, doesnt sound like a paper shredder when it turns O_o lolz. And if your transmitter has the turning wheel with weak springs and a heavy wheel, if you turn all the way to one side and let go, the wheel bounces back and forth a bit and the servo can mimik it a little lol.

[juntom10]

Thanks :)
i wanna race~~
yay!
maybe i will get t4 within a week(they will send me using usps express!)
So when i get those, i will post pics :):):)

[juntom10]

Batteries and servo for T4 :)

[Drkmstr104]

HOLY CRAP O_O lol you bought alot of stuff! Those HV batteries are awesome, I have a pack of Orion RDS 3600 and they have a lotta punch O_O
How much did all of that cost you?
-Drkmstr104

[microrcdude]

If you start looking into matched packs, i recomend the SMC prebuilt packs. Soo nice, i run one now in my B4, and i love it!

[juntom10]

those battery packs are about 30 dollars per pack :)

[Drkmstr104]

I run those orion RDS in mah buggy, it takes off soo fast O_O, but its those batts thats combines with a novak cyclone and a friggin trinity p2k pro lolz O_O i just ran it outside in the muddy track in my back yard, it was great! Also ran my T4 in the mud, with a cyclone and core stock, with reedy matched GP's O_O mud flying everywhere lolz! had to clean the tires off before going inside tho ... and that took a lot longer than i thought it would lolz! O_o
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

still not in stock ...

T4 is sooooo popular..

[Drkmstr104]

still not in stock ...

T4 is sooooo popular..

Lol holy crap! You have probably been fiddling around with all of the parts and stuff that you bought for it lolz whilst waiting (i know i would lol). for stock and mod trucks, the T4 is pretty much all that there is (aside from a few xxxt losi's), its the preffered choice in most cases lolz, and so is the B4 O_O I am very satisfied with my T4 and my B4 O_o, are you getting the RS version of the T4, or the one you have to assemble?
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

i ordered factory kit one

[nitro_newbie]

well im going to get a t-4 and i was wondering if this servo is a good one
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LRBD19&P=1

and this is what i plan toget with my kit:

LXNKU1 Castle Creations Mamba Max ESC/5700kV Motor Combo

1 212.99
LXKX39 W.S. Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug

1 3.09
LXGDU8 W.S. Deans Female Ultra Plug (2)

1 2.69
LXEX34 Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 6-Pack Even 16-26T

1 10.99
LRBD19 Futaba RS404PD High-Torque Metal Gear Robot Servo J
Qty Discount Available
1 31.99
LXLVG2 DuraTrax 6-Cell 7.2V DTX3800 NiMH Stick Standard
Qty Discount Available
1 37.99
the thing is i dont know which one to get. i want to get a team kit since i dont race well for now since my track closed and my parents cant take me to the perris track. will the added cost of the FT kit be good cuz i want some better durability but since im going to bash my truck (not hard core) im worried that the carbon peices (main chassis) on the FT kit will be more brittle will that be a proble? thanx alot
nitro_newbie

[BTE214]

If you are bashing you should probably get the team version because carbon parts are more brittle. I haven't broke a part on my team truck yet. Also, you can find a better servo for the money. It seems way too slow.

[nitro_newbie]

is this any better? well im not racing for now so if its slow ill get a better one when i get money cuz i pan to get the dx3 radio and just want a good high torque servo just till i can recoup some money =)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=7

[RControl Freak]

for steering in a T4? That's a perfect servo! (The DX3 is that Spektrum one, right?)

[BTE214]

Yea that will work fine but if it was me I'd rather have a higher speed servo than a high torque. Stadium trucks really don't require as much torque to turn the wheels as an MT does but they are more nimble so a higher speed servo would suit it better. Here is a high torque servo that has much better speed. It doesn't have as much torque as the futaba but it is alot faster and cheaper. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHV5&P=0

[nitro_newbie]

wow i thought 80 was alittle bit??? well if you guys reccomend that one i just want it to be good. and i havnt gotten the dx3 yet but once i recoup th money thats what im going to get i hear it is a good radio plus right nowi think they come with 2 receivers!!! one for t-4 and the other for 18mt.but thanx i appreciat the help. another question so has anyone put the mamabas in the T4? and how is the part wear with the bL system? what typically gives up the ghost first? thanx
nitro_newbie

[RControl Freak]

that does make sense.... Since I have a buggy, that's even more true for me!

[nitro_newbie]

wjhats the deal with the T4 not being in stock?!?!?! its getting on my nerves!! i will never be able to contaon myself!! i think associated is doing this so when people see that there in stock bam!!! they fly off the shelf. i hope the LHS has them

[RControl Freak]

my LHS had the old SE version, and they wanted nearly 40 dollars more for it than tower wanted for the new one. Shows how hobby shops can't compete with online vendors..... Sad

[nitro_newbie]

yeah i noticed that; but i think my LHS has them i see tons of them there. i just didnt want to pay taxes. :) :D but i guess i might have to :( :p

[RControl Freak]

hobby shop: taxes

internet: shipping (sometimes)

[nitro_newbie]

yeah it would be cheaper though about 7 dollars cheaper. shipping is 9 bux and taxes is 16 plus a higher price than tower but hopefully it will be at the lhs and they will give me a break

[RControl Freak]

or, you could consult the all knowing eBay...... :D

[Ronborsk]

Is it possible to modify a T4 body to fit a T3 body? AE's website says it will not fit but has anyone done this? I would have asked the question in a T3 forum but it looks pretty quiet over there.

[BTE214]

I scored my little brother a T3 recently and I was looking at the body and it won't work. They are just too different of mounting positions. Why are you looking at T3 bodies? They aren't any cheaper, well maybe like a dollar or two, but just get a T4 body. THe crowd pleazer and Jconcepts Illuzion bodies are both nice.

[Ronborsk]

Actually it was vice versa. Putting a T4 on a T3. I found some info on another forum that said it works but the body mounts are a little short on the front. One guy made some homemade extensions and another was able to get it to work without.

Reason I asked, I accidently ordered the wrong body. Doh!

Thanks for the reply!!

[juntom10]

omg...

every hobbyshop don't have T4 or B4..

i wait about 1 month..but still have to wait..

so i changed to xxx cr..:)

[RControl Freak]

yeah, my lhs is extremly slow on getting stuff....

[Drkmstr104]

I just upgraded the radio system in my T4 from an Airtronics Blazer, to the Airtronics MX-3s, and I am getting alot of glitching! Its always when I am accelerating too, the steering glitches out, the motor glitches out, and I lose control. I am running a T4 with a Core Stock motor, Novak Cyclone ESC, Hitec HS-925mg servo, and that specified radio system. Any ideas on how to fix this? (and I even soldered an extra capacitor to the motor, incase one of the ones that it came with stopped working, and it still glitches out to the same degree)
Thanks in advance!
-Drkmstr104

[badmojo13]

hey man, are you using the carbon chassis or the stock chassis. if you are using the carbon chassis it will cause is to glitch like that. also if you have a bare wire some where. what you can do is just twist your motor wires together that might stop it, or twist your servo receiver wires together and that might stop glitching also. did you mount the receiver and esc on the same side, that can cause glitching as well.

[Drkmstr104]

Im using the stock chassis, I do have a little bit of bare wire (the insulation is broken on 2 parts, each about 2mm long), Ill be sure to try and put some heat shrink tubing over it. Would twisting the wires together really work? Do the magnetic fields in the wires somehow interact with each other in such a way that it ends up stopping glitching o_O? Ill try that too, let you know if that works. The receiver and ESC are mounted on opposite sides, so I dont have to worry about that much. Thanks!
-Drkmstr104

[badmojo13]

yeah twisting your motor wires will make it better

[Craps]

Anybody else here put the quick change wheel conversion kit (AE # 7988) on the T-4 to use the GT-2 quick change wheels.

I love mine and they make the truck handle better. I converted all 4 of my trucks.

I noticed at the Reedy race last year all the top AE drivers had them on they're T-4s.

[van1]

Anyone know what the max amp I can charge a li-po at its a 2C 6000mah....?? :confused:

[Craps]

Anyone know what the max amp I can charge a li-po at its a 2C 6000mah....?? :confused:

1C charge rate so 6,000 mahs equal 6 amps in other words 6 amps = 1C

8,000 mahs would charge at 8 amps

[badmojo13]

why would a quick change wheel kit make the truck handle better. if this was gas racing where maybe you would have time to do a tire change I could understand that, the races I do we do 5 minute qualifiers and 6 minute mains, there isn't time to change wheels

[Craps]

why would a quick change wheel kit make the truck handle better. if this was gas racing where maybe you would have time to do a tire change I could understand that, the races I do we do 5 minute qualifiers and 6 minute mains, there isn't time to change wheels

The wheel center where the hub mounts in dead center of the wheel with alot larger contact patch with the hubs that give strength and also has that contact point right at the roll center of the suspension geometry for the wheel/tire that is alot better than offset to the inside wheel toward the chassis. More stablilty and better geometry!!!

We race 20 minute mains and get a warm up a lap or two and may try a different tires during the warm up now that the quick change makes that fast and easy. I also like the connection better than stripped nuts or broken drive pins or tighten down too tight to even blow out the hub bearings.

Don't take my word for it, check out the AE Team drivers at the Reedy Truck race last year all had QCs on they're T-4s!

[MartinRacing]

The QC hubs do make the truck feel good... almost like running losi tires on the rear of the truck = Hooked up

by the way, have you seen any associated t4s in the stores?

I have been forced to run a losi mf2

[Craps]

The QC hubs do make the truck feel good... almost like running losi tires on the rear of the truck = Hooked up

by the way, have you seen any associated t4s in the stores?

That's great and it is hard to keep such a great truck on the shelves! Everybody want's one! :D


I have been forced to run a losi mf2

So sorry and it hopefully will not be long they will have somemore T-4s out soon! :D

[juntom10]

Anybody tried 1/10 monster truck bodies to T4 or other 1/10 stadium trucks?

If so.... show me the picture please!!!

[rcfreak9]

900th reply!!

[rcfreak9]

dang....sooo close

[yeti73]

What needs to be replaced on the T4 right off the bat? I want to get one for general bashing and non-sanctioned racing, so I don't need every hopup in the book, but I'd like to know what definitely needs replaced/added/changed during buildup so I get off on the right foot.

[scoob]

What T4 do you have? If it's a factory team the only thing I would replace would be the ball cups/tie rod ends with RPM ends. If it's not the factroy team I would also replace the front hinge pin brace with the factory team version and the tie rods with some titanium rods. Either the factory team rods or an aftermarket brand. If you wanted to really beef it up, go with some aluminum rear body mounts. The stock ones break pretty easy and are a pain to replace. I am also getting the new RPM GT2 front arms for mine. It depends on how much you want to spend. I race in long races so my truck has to be pretty bulletproof. Anyway, the front hingepin brace and rod/ends are a little fragile on the RTR and team. I would go with that if nothing else.

[dustyRC10]

I have read in an ebay auction site that you can use the gt2 rpm arms, just need to get the hing pins as well. Can anyone confirm this for me? here it is

http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Associated-RC10-GT2-T4-Black-Front-Arms-Bulkhead_W0QQitemZ260091124736QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4 4028QQcmdZViewItem

[yeti73]

What T4 do you have? If it's a factory team the only thing I would replace would be the ball cups/tie rod ends with RPM ends. If it's not the factroy team I would also replace the front hinge pin brace with the factory team version and the tie rods with some titanium rods. Either the factory team rods or an aftermarket brand. If you wanted to really beef it up, go with some aluminum rear body mounts. The stock ones break pretty easy and are a pain to replace. I am also getting the new RPM GT2 front arms for mine. It depends on how much you want to spend. I race in long races so my truck has to be pretty bulletproof. Anyway, the front hingepin brace and rod/ends are a little fragile on the RTR and team. I would go with that if nothing else.

I haven't bought any yet. I'm doing some research before I pull the trigger.

[dustyRC10]

if anyone cares, the gt2 A arms work great, just need to get the gt2 pins as well

[RCfroman]

I've got a question, what parts consist of this area (it's the center drive shaft and differential areas):

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/th_tc4shaftarea.jpg (http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/puckstealer/tc4shaftarea.jpg)

[dustyRC10]

don't think your going to get much help here, this is a T4 thread

[RCfroman]

oops, my bad

[RControl Freak]

wait.....

see if this link helps; its got an exploded view of the diffs and driveshaft area, along with part numbers.

http://aedownloads.com/downloads/drawings/drawing_fttc3.pdf

Do you think we'll be seing a redesigned T4 & B4 in the near future?

[RCfroman]

cool, thanks. Just what I needed. (why didnt I look there before...)

[RControl Freak]

no problem

If someone were to buy a T4 kit, should they get the "team," or go ahead and get the factory team?

[fourwheels0]

i'm getting a t4rs. what should i look out for or need to change right away.thanks.

[d4man]

no problem

If someone were to buy a T4 kit, should they get the "team," or go ahead and get the factory team?

Get the Factory Team Kit!!!!!!! :teacher:

[vaderbxman]

I recently noticed the T4 at our local RC track, and man do those things rip! I was out their with my Evader Pro and was keeping up with them, but it took some effort. So I want home and looked at the RTR price, and I think I'm in love. I'm not going with the kits because I'm not that racey. I just want something that "better" (I say "better" lightly because the Evader is good, but the T4 has more aftermarket stuff available). So I'm looking at replacing the rubber all around with some holeshots and blades, swapping out the motor for a 15T speed gems Pro, and getting powerpoles for everything. I might get an aluminum ting here and there, but I'm not tricking-out my ride all the way to tebo status. I'm gonna make i my race weekend truck and keep my evader as a back-up truck If I break the T4.

Any suggestions (I've got the tire selection nailed, so I don't think I want to change that, but I might go holeshots all the way around)
Thanks!

[Drkmstr104]

i'm getting a t4rs. what should i look out for or need to change right away.thanks.

Depends on how you intend to use it ^_^
If you get it for backyard bashing, count on getting some stand-up brushes for the motor (just to replace once the ones it comes with wear out), and some replacement tires and rims, the ones that it comes with will last for a little while, but nothing major. I found that people that bash their T4's usually replace the front A-Arms the first time around, they are easy to break if you are a new driver and dont know how to make jumps properly. The first parts that I broke, before I started racing, was a turnbuckle (rear), and a few front A-Arms.

If you are gonna be racing with it, count on getting a little bit more O_o lolz
-Speed Controller: the speed controller that it comes with isnt all that great... I find it hard to accelerate up a jump with the one that it came with, once it has been upgraded your T4 should be more accelerative and you will have more of a chance of winning or ranking in a race. In my opinion, LRP doesnt make good Speed controllers, unless you pay alot for them, and even their more expensive models arent any good when compared to the price and performance of a Novak or Tekin speed controller. I would go for a Novak ESC as replacement, so far Novak hasnt let me down.
-Motor: The motor that the RS comes with is nothing for racing really.. more for bashing. This motor is a Reedy Radon, 17 turn, and is NOT rebuildable, in other words, the motor can has crimps that hold the end bell on the end, this makes it a PAIN in the A*$ to clean!! Get an Orion Core stock 27 turn motor...otherwise I suggest motors from trinity work pretty much the same as orion's. If you race a 19 turn class, the Team Checkpoint Money Motor 19Turn is pretty awesome, not as much power as other 19 turn's, but the armature and brushes are very low maintenance.

The Reedy Radon 17 Turn that came with my B4 had 6 minutes of runs before it died! I put it in my HPI RS4 Rally just for laughs, ( I had it in my B4 for about 4 minutes of runs before I decided it was time to put the better motor that I had bought for it, into the B4) combined with a Novak Cyclone speed controller. It lasted 2 minutes before I noticed my rally car was smoking =/ ... and when I opened it up I noticed that the brushes were black-blue, the comm was black-blue, the plastic portion of the endbell had MELTED to the comm, and the capacitor has become unsoldered!

Pinion Gear: you may need to change the pinion to gear it properly for your track. At my track alot of racers like to use 18 and 19 tooth pinions, combined with the spur gear that came with it RTR, just because of the large amount of jumps on the track. It comes with a 20 tooth pinion, and I bought an 18 tooth just to see the difference, and I would rather go with a 19, because top speed wasnt adequate enough to compensate for the difference in accel. Choose whatever suits you best.

Servo: This depends on preference. This servo is strong in the sense that it has metal gears... it is not very high on speed, or torque. The servo that I use for racing is a Hitec HS925-MG, which has great torque, speed, and metal gears! I highly reccomend it.

Some parts that have broken while racing include: Rear wing mounts, front A-Arms, front skid plate, and a bearing for the front wheel...

Other than all that, you might consider getting a better radio system. The one it comes with it decent, but after a while you might discover that an upgrade would benefit your races.

Let me know if you have any questions! Hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

Get the Factory Team Kit!!!!!!! :teacher:

If you have good control of your truck during a race O_o then yesh.

If you are relatively new to racing and or RC, then no. The Factory Team kit is cool because you get to assemble everything. Aside from that, just be aware that this kit comes with a lot of carbon parts. Carbon is easier to break than plastic parts, but carbon tends to be more rigid, with less flex. Carbon parts are lighter in weight as well (not by too much)... but the difference between a kit with more plastic componets vs carbon componets, and price as well O_o, the plastic is probably a better choice.

[vaderbxman]

If you guys are talking to me, I'm not too new to it, but I jsut went past my first full year of racing my evader. I'm looking at something that jumps better, but doesn't break the bank. I knew the motor wasn't gonna last forever, so I've got a 15T trinity speed gems spec'd. I wish we had a 1/10 stadium truck class at my track, because I've gotten really good at it. Those guys at the track with the T4's were all fielding speed gems. The fastest one was using a silver can, but I thought it was discontinued.

When the money allows, I'm gonna swap out for a new receiver so I can use my 2PL that I love so much. For the servo, I might yank the one in my evader now (futaba s3305) and use it, while using the associated servo in the evader.




When you say that you'd suggest a 19T pinion for jumps, is it alot of short jumps or long-distance ones. I race on a really technical track with only 3 spots to stretch its legs. I want more acceleration out of corners to be a contender with my dad's Turmoil (he runs 33 second laps, while I run 36.7 with my evader) and to be able to put that power down. I'm thinking that holeshots are really good, but shoud I get them for the front too? I see the nitro guys use them for the 1/10 scene, but is it useful for the electric guys? I want to be able to just tear around corners as fast as possible.

I'm going with the T4 because it sounds quiet. My evader was screaming at me, while his was just gliding around the track. I think it has something to do with the stealth transmission.

One more thing. I see the RPM arms for the GT2 will fit the T4, but some other part was required. What was it?

Thanks for the replies guys!! It's helping a lot!:)

[fourwheels0]

vader the other thing you need with rpm arm's is the hingepins. hopefully fed-ex say's my t4 will be here tomorrow :D and they are calling for rain :mad: .

[vaderbxman]

The GT2 hingepins? I'll go to RPM's website and poke around. As for tires, what would you guys reccomend for really dry, dusty conditions with occasional wetspots from rain (as in once or twice a month) Holeshots? bowties? Another kind? I do like proline, but if another brand offers a better tire, I might switch over....

And let me know how your T4 works out!!

EDIT: I found the name of the part, but tower shows different pins, and none of them point to the right one? could I have some help with that too? :confused:

[fourwheels0]

vader yes gt2. the tower special stock # is lxnyv7 for the outer hinde pins. the associated # is 7927. as for tires i don't have a clue.

[vaderbxman]

Thanks a million for the part number!!! Does anyone else have Ideas? I was thinking holeshots, like this:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j124/jasonsams/maifield72-1.jpg

[fourwheels0]

i got my t4 today. i am happy so far. this thing is like brand new :D i'm shocked. i got all that is in the pic for $170 shipped. i've got a 14 turn motor going in it soon. the stock 17 turn isn't bad for now but you know how that goes :D . this should be fun. wouldn't you know it it's supposed to rain tomorrow :mad: .

[vaderbxman]

Same over here. I actually beat a T4 and a triple-XT at the first official 1/10 scale electric truck race on our track. We had 3 guys show up with one (me and my dad plus the guy who runs the show) so we had a race. Then another guy showed up with a hipped-up T4 and some holeshots. We ran 3 more races and I was declared the winner (I swept the heats and the main!!! :D)

I even got a trophy!!! Sweet!



And, as proof.....
http://www.hobbyraceway.com/modules/news/

My name is adam in that post.

[scotty08]

Need help with my new T4. :cool: I ran through some water at the track Saturday. :eek: Dried out on Sunday and all was well, until I ran through water again. :eek: Let dry out again, and thought all was well, but I have had much difficulty getting it to run properly. :confused: I think I have it worked out again. I am not sure that this speedo is working right. The problem was I could not get it to go either forward or reverse. Was able to get forward to work each and every time I pulled trigger, but not reverse. I have since been able to get reverse and Brake to work properly. But I am unsure the speedo is problem, as the ESC lights worked like they were supposed to.

Could it be the Motor? Should I wait and see how it goes, or plan on getting a new Speedo or Motor? What speedo should I get, and should I get a new motor with it? What works well with stock setup, this is my first electric, and I am planning on doing some competitive racing in the near future.

Current Speedo is LRP AI super reverse digital. Current motor is Reedy 30,000 rpm Radon 17t. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Running stock gearing. Literally took out of box and started running truck. Only used 4 times so far.

Scott

[vaderbxman]

Do you have any friends to borrow an ESC from? If not, I'd blame the ESC for the problem. I've seen people submerge motors underwater and keep them running without any problems. If I had the money, I'd go with a novak or Duratrax intellispeed ESC if you have to replace it.

[scotty08]

Do you have any friends to borrow an ESC from? If not, I'd blame the ESC for the problem. I've seen people submerge motors underwater and keep them running without any problems. If I had the money, I'd go with a novak or Duratrax intellispeed ESC if you have to replace it.

Thanks for reply Vader. I am going to track tomarrow, so I will find out for sure then. I do have it working with it on stand, just not sure how fast it is going to be. And unfortunatly not sure LHS has any thing instock. They tend to lean towards Aircraft and Trains. So I will have to order if this one is Toast. We will see tomarrow.

Does no one else visit this Board anymore? Or, am I just asking at a bad time?

Scott

[vaderbxman]

I think that the B4 board is more active because more people have them. That's a pity, because I've got one comming to me in late may.

Oh, and it's no biggie with the reply. I'll still be here! :D

[fourwheels0]

ok i've got a problem. i'm loosing control of my truck at about 40-50 feet it starts to skip and stutter like it's loosing the signal.when it get's closer to me than 40 feet it get's a good signal and run's fine. all knobs are set to the middle and battery is fully charged any idea's?. what is the normal radio range on a stock t4 race spec truck?.

[vaderbxman]

Are you still running the stock motor, the radon 17T 30,000 RPM motor? If so, look on the end of the motor and look for 3 capacitors. They are Golden-brownish in color. If you only see one, or none, that's the source of the problem. Associated says that an early batch of T4's left the factory with only one capacitor installed, limiting the range. You've got 2 options:

You can try to get capacitors to restore range, but it's a hassle.
Or you can get a new motor from another manufacture. Associated can't make speed controls or motors, but they can sure make trucks. Try a Speed-gems motor or try the Team Orion's Sv2 brand of motors.

Hope this helps!

[fourwheels0]

yup only one capacitor on my motor. thanks vader. i've got a 14 turn going in so i won't worry about it. and if i can get rid of my mini lst (trade or sell for a brushless setup) i'll go that route.

[vaderbxman]

No prob. I've got to worry about that problem myself, so I'm gonna remove all doubt and just get a 14T speed gems when it comes time. I'm also gonna get some bowties for the rear, but I haven't decided what to get for the front........

[fourwheels0]

ok i've got a new problem. i put in the 14 turn motor and now everytime i turn on the truck the throttle and brake are reversed. any idea's?.

[vaderbxman]

You've got the motor leads reversed. By swapping the leads with eachother (Say you put a red one into a blue one and a black one into a white one. By swapping, you put the red one into the white one and the black one into a blue one)

that should cure it. If not, you might have a servo reverser switch on your radio to make your gas and brake fixed. Let me know if it works or not.....

[fourwheels0]

ya i've got a servo reversing switch but when i switch it run the truck for a while it's fine. then shut everything off and turn it back on it's switched again. is it the motor leads that are backwards?.

[vaderbxman]

Try reversing the leads. I don't know why your radio isn't taking the switch. If this doesn't fix it, this might get interesting.....

[fourwheels0]

vader the radio takes the switch until i turn everthing off. then when i turn everthing on again it's reversed again.also it's just reversing the throttle not the steering.

[vaderbxman]

That's weird. It didn't do this while you had the other motor in it did it? The only other problem I can think up of is that maybe the timing of the motor is off or the endbell was put on wrong by someone in the factory.

[Drkmstr104]

vader the radio takes the switch until i turn everthing off. then when i turn everthing on again it's reversed again.also it's just reversing the throttle not the steering.
Are you using the stock speed controller? If so, the LRP 13 turn + ESC needs to be "calibrated" every time it is turned on. All that means, is that the first thing you do after turning it on, is squeezing the trigger on your transmitter to make the truck go foreward, in other words, pull the trigger back towards you. That process will let the speed controller know the orientation, which one is foreward and reverse. You might have your throttle trim set back to the point where it automatically decides that reverse is foreward. Adjust your trim so that it is either in the middle, or a little foreward, and then turn it on and do the calibration process. As for the servos... I am not sure... tell me how the speed controller orientation goes first, and Ill get back to you on that.
Hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[Drkmstr104]

Oh lol nevermind that part about the steering then, I misread and thought is was affecting the servo as well.
-Drkmstr104

[fourwheels0]

ok i've tried everything and same thing. i'm thinking it has to be the motor wires are on backwards. i'll have to wait till i get a buddy of mine to swap the wires as i don't have a soldering iron.

[vaderbxman]

Do you have bullet connectors on it? Or are the leads hardwired to the ESC?

[fourwheels0]

bullet connecters but they have a dob of solder on them from the factory so you can't pull them apart.

[vaderbxman]

Aww, that's stupid. I'd just make it either one, not fuse the connectors together like Associated did. Dang.........

[OldSlotGuy]

I had the same thing happen with my T4 RTR with the stock reedy motor and LRP ESC. Sometimes when I would turn it on it would be in reverse, sometimes not. I could always reverse the throttle on the transmitter. Then I learned that if it came on backwards, I could just toggle the receiver power switch off and on again and the throttle would reset. Must be a quirk with the LRP ESC. I'll try the trick with the throttle trim and see if that fixes the problem.

[scotty08]

Mine has done the same as being explained here. If you read the instructions on the ESC. LRP states that TX must be powered on, then you can power on the ESC. The problem lies in the powering sequence. After reading this and powering on in the order discribed I have had 0 problems.

[vaderbxman]

Jeez, thanks for the answer. I'll bear that in mind when mine arrives........

[fourwheels0]

scotty08 mine is not a power on sequence issue. i know how to turn on a radio and receiver. you always turn on the radio first and off last. mine is that the motor wires are on the motor backwards.

[Drkmstr104]

yellow to positive and blue to neg? Maybe the motor that you have was made incorrectly and everything is backwards =/ I burned up my reedy radon 17 turn with a Novak Cyclone esc lol, melted the plastic endbell to the armarure =D and that was on a 2 minute run... it had 4 minutes before that run like a week before it died lol! 4 minutes on the LRP that comes with the T4, and 2 with my novak cyclone O_O

...Then again my cyclone has an a$$load more amperage than lrp does (120amp lrp vs 480amp Novak)

I suggest getting a soldering iron, they come in handy for soo many things!
Radio shack sells em for like 8 bucks @ 45 watts, solder (with 2% silver) for like 3 bucks.

Also, do you have a multi meter to test voltage with? if you put the black test wire to the yellow motor wire, and the red test wire to the blue wire, and end up getting a negative reading, then it IS wired backwards.

anyways, keep us updated and ill check back later. **** luck!
-Drksmtr104

[fourwheels0]

thanks i'll check the voltage and let you know. this is my first electric so i'm learning all kinds of stuff. nitro is no problem for me :D .

[scotty08]

Hope you figure out the problem.

[Drkmstr104]

lol in my last response the forums filtered out the "Good" in "Good luck" for some reason... not soo sure what that was all about.

[fourwheels0]

yup it was wired backwards. i switched the wires and all is good. thanks to everybody to helped.

drkmstr104 ya i noticed that little stars thing and wondered about it. what the ***** :D .

[fourwheels0]

all i need to do now is get rid of my mini lst so i can get a brushless setup :D .

[scotty08]

What is considered to be the best set up for the T4, as far as brushless is concerned? Been considering it pretty seriously, but am unsure if I am rdy for such an extreme change so soon.

I will be racing in my first race this Sat. I will use it to measure weather or not I am ready for such a big change. I would still like some opinions on the different brushless set ups.

Looking forward to reading some posts.

[vaderbxman]

The mamba max is really good as far as sensorless motors go. You can adjust all kinds of stuff from brake curves to voltage limits to timing. If I were to choose, that's the motor and ESC I'd go with.

Novak makes the most reliable brushless set-up out there. They also offer a wide range of motors to boot. They are more expensive, but you get what you pay for.......

[Drkmstr104]

I agree, Novak is what I would go with, because I have owned many different items from novak and never really had any problems at all, in my eyes they are very reliable.

I havnt really tried a mamba max, but I have seen what they can do on youtube, and they are very close to Novak... as far as I can tell. If you have ever seen a pic of their speed controllers, you will notice a USB port on the side so you can plug in and change everything for awesome customization.

I have owned LRP products, all of which have let me down, so I advise staying away from lrp. (brushed motors and esc's)

Trinity has the N60 motor, According to them it is the equilivent to 3 turns... I have not used it yet.

If you are just begining at racing, I would advise against going to brushless soo soon, unless you have had previous rc experience. Start slow and work your way up, or you will most likely lose control of your truck and break some major parts.
Good Luck, and I hope this helped!
-Drkmstr104

[juntom10]

i'm using mamba for 18t, and novak 4.5R for xxx t mf2..

i love both..
novak is super smooth..
mamba is really powerful and faster(can use more cells of batteries)

in my opinion
mamba is good for bashing
novak is good for racing

[vaderbxman]

And that's the reason I'm getting the mamba!!! For bashing!

[scotty08]

I agree, Novak is what I would go with, because I have owned many different items from novak and never really had any problems at all, in my eyes they are very reliable.

I havnt really tried a mamba max, but I have seen what they can do on youtube, and they are very close to Novak... as far as I can tell. If you have ever seen a pic of their speed controllers, you will notice a USB port on the side so you can plug in and change everything for awesome customization.

I have owned LRP products, all of which have let me down, so I advise staying away from lrp. (brushed motors and esc's)

Trinity has the N60 motor, According to them it is the equilivent to 3 turns... I have not used it yet.

If you are just begining at racing, I would advise against going to brushless soo soon, unless you have had previous rc experience. Start slow and work your way up, or you will most likely lose control of your truck and break some major parts.
Good Luck, and I hope this helped!
-Drkmstr104

Thanks for the information. Novak is the direction I am considering. I will most likely stay with brushed for the time being.

As far as LRP I agree, that is what came stock in the RS RTR I ordered. I ran it through a bit of water once, and now it does not seem to work quite right, but that was nearly 2 weeks ago. Been waiting on parts, I broke front a-arm same day I noticed problem with ESC. So I may just get me a good Brushless comatible ESC, and then I can switch rather easily when and if I decide to do the brushless thing. Also, LRP is can not lock out reverse :( at least the one I have is not possible.

This is my first Electric, I have a had a couple Nitro, and still have a T-Maxx, but I have never raced any of my previous. I wanted to do some electric Races, before getting into Nitro racing. Seems to be less people racing electric these days.

[Drkmstr104]

Yea I think its good to start out racing with electric, a lot easier to control on a track with lots of jumps and turns due to the "instant torque" of electric motors, no comphensating for throttle delay like you have to do for nitro.

Novak is a great brand, and Ill reccomend them to everyone who wants to race, as mentioned Mambas are more for bashing, other than that good choice!

I ran my LRP ESC through a puddle once =/ and when I turned it on it nearly killed my motor, just started dumping energy into the motor at random, and smelt like burned... stuff lol...
Novak makes some awesome ESC's for brushed motors as well, I recommend upgrading from LRP if you are gonna race... those LRP 13 turn ESC's have low acceleration, so its very hard to make a jump, or just accel in general. If you try to race against Novak equipped cars with an LRP, you have a very slim chance of ranking very good. For beginners, it is fine for racing, and once you learn the track and how your truck works I reccomend making that upgrade. With my Novak Cyclone, Ill max out at 30 MPH in about 2 seconds with a stock motor [27turn], with the LRP, It takes like 4-5 seconds to max out on speed.

The motor that comes with your truck is not very good either, its made by Reedy, which is a subdivision of LRP lol, I ran it for 4 minutes in my B4 with LRP esc, and then changed to another one of my Novak Cyclones, burned out the 17 turn in 2 minutes because it was very bady made, just a cheap motor lol, could not handle 480amps. Like I said, the stock gear is great for beginners, but once you start getting better, you need to be able to compete more, and thats when you consider an upgrade.

Oh yea, lol the first part that I broke was a front A-Arm, lol Ive gone through about 6 ish since I started racing about a year ago. I broke the most when I started racing though. Good Luck!

-Drkmstr104

[scotty08]

My first broken part was rear Body/wing mount. Second broken part was A-arm. Worst was I was only running down th street whn I broke A-arm. Ran it into a curb. OPPS!

Thanks For the Heads up. Got my parts yesterday after I posted, will put together today and see how well it runs. May be looking at an ESC & Motor sooner than I realized.

[Drkmstr104]

Not necessarily lol, its good to start out with the slower stuff so that you learn how the truck reacts to the track, and then once you get the hang of it and get more competitive I recommend making that upgrade. Upgrades are cheaper on eBay, I highly suggest looking there for deals. I found my motor and speed control combination for about $90 total (shipping included), a lot of people are usually surprised when I tell them that =D! I did a lot of research on the web, came up with some speed controls that looked good for the price, same thing with the motors, and I ended up getting a great deal.

I like to support my hobby shop as well, but my budget doesnt allow me to pay their prices.. otherwise I would do it more often.

-Drkmstr104

[scotty08]

Drkmstr104,

[scotty08]

Drkmstr104,

I was refering to the LRP esc making noises and not really acting right. Looks like I will not be racing this weekend. Rain is in forecast, and looks like it is going to rain ALL day. :(

Oh Well

[fourwheels0]

is anybody running panther komodo dragon's?. how do you like them and what surface are you running on.

[scotty08]

I just got some Proline BowTies, but have yet to run them. Will depend on track conditions if I use them tomarrow, after work. No More RAIN Thank god, hopefully we will be able to do some practicing.

[vaderbxman]

I like the bowties for my evader for loamy conditions, with alot of sand-like dirt to race on. Hope ya like em!

[juntom10]

bowties are good for racing and bashing..

but i'm waiting for moab for bashing..

[nitro_newbie]

im probally getting a t4 and was wondering wat pinion set to get the even or odds? i will be putting a mamba max in it after i can save money. but for now i will go with a 19t element motor.do you guys have any other good motors that are kinda cheap money wise but will have decent speed i am looking toward 25mph so i can get a hang of till i get better. thanx alot.
nitro_newbie

[vaderbxman]

Team Orion makes really good budget motors for about 20-25 dollars. I had a Method R motor for most of a year and it never gave me any trouble. That's the only cheap one I know.

[juntom10]

orion and trinity make really good motors...

[Drkmstr104]

Have you checked out the Team Checkpoint money motor? Id recommend it if you want a little more speed and power than a 27 turn... Orion, Trinity, and checkpoint make really good motors. I wouldn't go below a 19 turn though for brushed, you would probably be a little disappointed to find out you have to do a lotta maintenance [true the comm, get new brushes, that sorta thing]. I have a money motor [19 turn] and its pretty good, im happy with the life of the brushes. Ive heard that some other 19turn motor's like the element from orion don't have good brush life, because they have a little more power, so one good thing is sacrificed to another good thing...

What kind of speed control are you running?

[vaderbxman]

I'm kicking myself in the butt for getting a 12T motor for my evader. I love the speeds, but hate the maintinence.

I'm looking at the mamba max controller to replace the controller I have now, but I want to be sure that it runs brushed motors, because I'm not going brushless soon: I'll probably go that way in mid-august.......

[Drkmstr104]

lol yea, I know a lot of racers that buy a motor like 10 turns or less, dislike the maintenance, and sell their motor to someone else within 2 weeks or so... thats why Im only going down to 19 turns, anything lower than that, Ill get a brush less system... no more truing a comm, no more brushes to buy, no more inefficiency O_O brush less motors manage to stay soo much cooler than brushed motors, soo awesome, the only thing that bugs me is the price @_@

[juntom10]

lol yea, I know a lot of racers that buy a motor like 10 turns or less, dislike the maintenance, and sell their motor to someone else within 2 weeks or so... thats why Im only going down to 19 turns, anything lower than that, Ill get a brush less system... no more truing a comm, no more brushes to buy, no more inefficiency O_O brush less motors manage to stay soo much cooler than brushed motors, soo awesome, the only thing that bugs me is the price @_@
get a mamba max system for 155 bucks..
http://pfmdistribution.com/secure/shop/category.asp?catid=54

[vaderbxman]

I'm looking at colors to paint my car, and I'm torn between 2 themes:

1.) I just pain the whole car outlaw black or metallic black
2.) I go for a red vs. blue theme (internet series) with half being red and the other being blue.

What I want to add to make the body stand out is a picture. I know xxx main or someone makes a picture glue that you can use to put pics on under the paint, but does it work good? If not, I'll just stick to black.

Any thoughts?

[juntom10]

I'm looking at colors to paint my car, and I'm torn between 2 themes:

1.) I just pain the whole car outlaw black or metallic black
2.) I go for a red vs. blue theme (internet series) with half being red and the other being blue.

What I want to add to make the body stand out is a picture. I know xxx main or someone makes a picture glue that you can use to put pics on under the paint, but does it work good? If not, I'll just stick to black.

Any thoughts?
do both of them!

[vaderbxman]

could I maybe highlight the car by doing a balck wing or something?

Thanks for the reply.

Oh, and have you driven an evader before? And if so, how different does the T4 handle from the Evader?

[klwzscale]

Would like to know when the T4 came to market. As I am thinking about purchasing one but do not want to purchase one if the T5 will be coming out in the next 6 - 9 months.

What do you think the timing is, for a new version of the T4?

Thank you,

[vaderbxman]

Probably not for a long time. Associated is still owning the 2WD championship world, and will probably continue to do so for a long time.

Go for it!

[sunshine_monkey]

Vader,
I've used the XXX Main paint mask stickers and they work great. So do the Parma ones. If you read through the paint threads on this site you will get a bunch of good tips. One of the best tips I picked up is to put your spray can in some hot water before you use them. It raises the pressure in the can and makes for a smoother spray.

Also, make sure you take the time to make sure all the edges of the stickers are burnished and there are no air bubbles in the mask. You can use a blow dryer to go over the masks and make sure they are sealed against the body.

It's not that hard. Give it a go and have fun!

[sportsracer-5]

I'm sure this has been done... how does one go about attaching a buggy wing to a T4? And which wings have been used?

[vaderbxman]

Vader,
I've used the XXX Main paint mask stickers and they work great. So do the Parma ones. If you read through the paint threads on this site you will get a bunch of good tips. One of the best tips I picked up is to put your spray can in some hot water before you use them. It raises the pressure in the can and makes for a smoother spray.

Also, make sure you take the time to make sure all the edges of the stickers are burnished and there are no air bubbles in the mask. You can use a blow dryer to go over the masks and make sure they are sealed against the body.

It's not that hard. Give it a go and have fun!


Thanks for the help man!! That actually sounds like what I need to do.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Hey, guys.

I just got a factory team T4 (used) and I need to get some spare parts for it. I'm going to be racing it at a ROAR regional race and I want to have everything I need to make it through the race.

Right now I have rear arms, rear hub carriers, a rear chassis brace/front pin brace, steering rack assembly, and rear shock tower. What other parts should I have in case? Front arms, front shock shafts, front bulkhead, etc?

Thanks, guys. I'm brand new to the T4 so I don't know what usually breaks or doesn't break. Also, any other hop ups that the FT T4 needs?

Thanks, guys.

-Jeff

[USATorque55]

Only thing I've ever broke on my brushless T4(bashing of course) has been a rear A-Arm, and rear body mounts.

Thats not to say I don't have other spares around, but its been a very tough truck.

[Aluma]

Hey Jeff...in the year I've raced my T4 at Harlingen...i've managed to only break one part over and over again... the rear body mounts. (I gave up replacing them and glued the tips to the shock tower) But I must recommend that you get losi silver 8 ribs for the front and super soft rear tires...you're good to go.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Hey Jeff...in the year I've raced my T4 at Harlingen...i've managed to only break one part over and over again... the rear body mounts. (I gave up replacing them and glued the tips to the shock tower) But I must recommend that you get losi silver 8 ribs for the front and super soft rear tires...you're good to go.

Hey, man. Nice seeing you at the track last week end! Hopefully Erin doesn't cancel our plans for this week end...

So, I just received my T4 on Tuesday and it's immaculate! http://rc.jeffjassky.com/galleries/t4/

I heard the same thing about the rear body mounts from another guy. I ordered an extra pair and they should be here by Saturday for the race.

Thanks for the tip on the Losi ribs. Right now I plan to run Losi Red IFMAR Pins with the stock Proline M3 "Edge" tires. That should be good enough for me.

Thanks again for the tips. Looks like Erin moved up north over Houston.. Woo! I may just see you this week end yet. Later!

-Jeff

[Aluma]

I used to run the Edge tires ....they are way too grabby at our track...and if it rains or we run wet, those pins will be worthless. You should see how it gets after one or two rounds of buggy/truggy racing...it gets shredded and loamy fast! See ya there. :D

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I used to run the Edge tires ....they are way too grabby at our track...and if it rains or we run wet, those pins will be worthless. You should see how it gets after one or two rounds of buggy/truggy racing...it gets shredded and loamy fast! See ya there. :D

Yeah.. I'm not gonna be using those tires. I know they'd cake up bad. I have myself a brand new set of ifmar pins for my truck and buggy. I think the truck is set up to handle the edges. The front is really light and a bit stiff. Should be pretty good :)

You can kinda see my T4 in here :)
http://rc.jeffjassky.com/galleries/t4/IMG_4604.jpg

-Jeff