Associated T4

[dkangel]

Has anyone heard any news on the release date of this truck?
I have heard drips and drabs about it, and was looking to buy the T3, but will wait if the release date is close????

[dkangel]

O.K. so I can assume that nobody has any additional info over what I have heard already...... I am surprised that there were no replies... I really dont wanna get the T3 if the T4 is coming in right behind it.... Any input???

[southbornracer]

haven't heard much about a t4,but i know that some of ae drivers are going to be using an updated b3 in south africa that they will make the b4 after that race is over............billy

[dkangel]

Thanks for the info:D

[PtCruiser2003]

i have been told that the T4 was on hold til after the B4 is fine tuned.

[CalmCyclone]

Associated says the B4 won't be out for 'many months.' Whenever the release date is (I guesstimate February), the T4 would probably be released four months or so later.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[saabcaptain]

Here is a question, historically how close behind is Losi in releasing a competing truck/buggy after AE does? For example did the XXX-T and XXX come right after AE released the T3/B3? Can we expect Losi to immediately compete with AE's upcoming T4/B4 with new models?

[SteveK]

The Losi XXX's came out maybe 4-5 years after the B3/T3 came out. I'm not exactly positive of the dates, but I think the B3/T3 was around 1994/95 and 1996/96 respectively, and the XXX series vehicles came out around 2000.

It seems that both companies are on their own schedules for releasing products.

[saabcaptain]

Wow, I had no idea that the truck had come out so long ago (the T3 that is). I was intrested in getting a 2WD buggy in the next few months and was going to go with the XXX-KE to match my MFE XXX-T (the only RC Car I have right now) but with news of the B4 coming out and some neat features even a newbie like me can appeciate (lower CG, captured hinge pins, the famous solid "stealth" diff etc.) I am now leaning toward the B4. I was simply curious if I should hold off because Losi would quickly release a XXXX buggy or something to compete with the B4.

AND YES I know both the XXX-KE and the B4 will be competive but since I can't win races anyway with my woeful skills I figured I could have the "coolest" buggy anyway. :D

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Dave C.

[Hobbytown Racer]

I thought the B2 was out in 95. The B3 and convertion was released in 96. Then the T3 in 96. ???

[saabcaptain]

Ok here is a question then...

assuming the B2 was released in 95 and B3 in 96 that still leaves almost 6+ years before the B4!

when was the Losi XX released? How about the XXX? You have to assume Losi has some big releases coming in 2003 since 02 was the year of the XXX-S and XXX-4. The truck and buggy both are topped out with the KE and MFE's, so maybe Losi too will come out with a refresh?

[SteveK]

The B3 has been competitive for it's entire run. The original RC10 came out in 1984, and remained relatively unchanged for the next 11 years. Sure, it got new front arms, new shocks, a new tranny, etc, but overall, the last tub-chassis car, the World's Car, was very close to the first RC10. Many parts could easily be retro-fit on the old car. Parts are even still available to keep any tub-chassis RC10 running right now.

Associated has always operated that way: Release a car and don't make a new one for like 5 years. I don't have a problem with that since the cars are so good you don't need new ones every 2-3 years, and the parts supply is so good it's not a problem.

Losi changes cars more frequently, and many shops have problems with getting parts, both during the run and right after. Once the XXX-series came out (Both truck and buggy were out at the same time), XX parts became scarce. My LHS stopped carrying Losi products because of that several years ago.

[wildcat1971]

I agree about those parts. You can still get parts for the original rc10. Try to do that with a JRX2. Losi abandons the cars once the new one comes out. ANy news on the release date for the B4?

[losiracer9]

it will be out jan

[wildcat1971]

Sweet, If they make the FT I might get one.

[skip wagner]

I heard AE is tartgeting a late-Feb release for the buggy Team kit.

Historically, a truck version to compliment the buggy will follow by about 4-6 months.....and a FT kit about a year to 1 1/2 yr. later.

[LRSeriesIII]

The T3 was released in 1997 (the RCCA thrash test was in October 97), so the B3 was probably early 97/late 96.

I don't think Losi will be coming out with a new car just yet, I think it'll be more than a year, but that's purely a guess.

[wcoyote_racer]

The only thing I know is that Losi is not set to bring out a "totally New" design until mid 2004 at the earliest. Most likely 2005. Losi feels confident in it's current design, so for now, they might do upgrades like offset steering hubs just for adjustibility and to keep the design current. Honestly there isn't much that the XXX design has to change and be still be "up to date". We will see.

[pudder]

.

(just leave my mark so I get email replies)

[Prinler]

Whats the point of this forum? its not even out for another year and a 1/2 !

Delete it. :p:D

[RC10T3]

The T3 was out before the B3, I got my T3 in August of 1997. I still have to use some b2 parts on my t3, and I cant use B3 parts. I remember when I got my T3, it was the first one of the rc10 "3" line.

[Backfire]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
Ok here is a question then...

assuming the B2 was released in 95 and B3 in 96 that still leaves almost 6+ years before the B4!

when was the Losi XX released? How about the XXX? You have to assume Losi has some big releases coming in 2003 since 02 was the year of the XXX-S and XXX-4. The truck and buggy both are topped out with the KE and MFE's, so maybe Losi too will come out with a refresh?

It is my understanding that Losi has both an update for the XXX ready to go and a completely new car in the works. My guess is after they see where the B4 stands relative to the XXX they will make their decisions on what to bring out. If the B4 and XXX are close and competative, maybe bring out the update to give the XXX a boost. If the B4 is a big step forward, I wouldn't be surprised to see a new Losi relatively soon.

[JEEL]

There is little money to be made offering a newer version of the XXX right now. I would think that Losi is working on either a nitro on road or a nitro MT. Why would Losi want to completely retool their XXXT RTR, XXX, and XXXT? I expect the B4 to be great, but not to make these vehicles obsolete!

Companies like Losi and Associated are making their money these days on RTR's. There is just not enough people buying the kits. Yes, seasoned racers still do (myself included), but how many of us are truly out there? I am guessing that this hobby is currently 80% bashers and only 20% racers? Right now, enthusiasts want nitro, RTR, fast and cheap! Who would have thought Associated would be making RTR cars, trucks and now a MT?

[Nexus]

Did this thread get away from it's topic?

Is it the consensus that there is no news yet or rumors of AE developing a RC10T4?

[Greg_Hager]

Originally posted by Nexus
Did this thread get away from it's topic?

Is it the consensus that there is no news yet or rumors of AE developing a RC10T4?
I hope they are. I am in the market for a FT T3, but I will hold off for a T4 if they are truly better! :D

[dragracer28]

in the b4 forum it says that they will post the release date of the T4 when it is further along. that must mean that there is one in development:)

[Greg_Hager]

Originally posted by dragracer28
in the b4 forum it says that they will post the release date of the T4 when it is further along. that must mean that there is one in development:)
Good observation dragracer, I can't wait for some more information!

[dragracer28]

AE has a part# for the T4 and there B4 forum has some questions about testing a new truck that are not being answered with a good answer so there must be one as I said earlier. The forum is on rc10.com (http://www.rc10.com)

[StevePond]

Check it out... pics of the T4 - http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129929

[Nexus]

the wait is over...the T4 is officially coming!

[TPhalen]

Hey everyone....a few more pix are on my site: www.CompetitionX.com.

[TPhalen]

Sorry....link above won't work with the 'dot' after the .com

Try this instead: www.CompetitionX.com

:)

[ttweedle]

Well I am #1 on the waiting list at my local Hobby Shop. So I am going to get one of the first shipments to the general public. WOOHOO!!!!

[Ford Racer#1]

im on the waiting list too on the T4 at my hobby shop this is so exciting lol:D

[k_sw31]

Is it just me or do the front arms on the T4 look skinny and flimsy? As well as the rear arms?

Well, I am curious to see how well the T4 performs, I would like to buy one, specifically for use with my brushless system and some general bashing around stuff. I guess I'll need to sell my T3 though, and probably my B4 as well, it doesn't have a good place in my "fleet". ;)

PS, Sorry for the rambling, I just wanna get the email for replies to this thread. ;)

[wolfboy117]

ok so rccaraction and all the other places started showing pics of the t4, remeber when they started to show similar pics of the b4..how much long did they release the b4 after they started showing the public wat it was gonna look like, i think it was around 3 months but im really not sure, i think its safe to say that the t4 will be here from late nov-late jan maybe even early feb...

[k_sw31]

Actually the reason why the B4 was released later than expected was because they found some manufacturing flaws, and few minor flaws in some of the parts. Since they have all the kinks worked out already I expect the T4 to be out in a month or so.

[RC10tee3]

Hell yeah!!! there shipping t4's out on monday AUG4 imight need to get oneand put a brushless system in it

[wolfboy117]

r u serious? where did u hear that?

[dragracer28]

If you go to rc10.com and click on all kits then click on kit info for the T4.

[k_sw31]

The T4 looks great and all, but still the arms look flimsy. To me it looks as if there is enough leverage to break and a arm simply by catching the boards wrong...

I guess I'll wait till some people have 'em and get their reports. :)

(In the mean time prepping my T3 to be sold)

[TPhalen]

You'll notice the arms look 'thin', but should also notice they have a taller profile. Being taller allows them to BE thinner...it's a design thing!!! :)

[LEADFOOT]

http://www.rc10.com/images/T4_loading.jpg

[TPhalen]

Hahahah, that's a good one. We took that today! I was wondering how long it would be before someone found that!

[wolfboy117]

i love pics like that where the answeres are always found in the zoomed in version, u cant really tell it says t4 though kinda looks like t2 lol

[k_sw31]

Ah thanks for pointing that out TPhalen! I was a bit to slow to notice that. But remember, if I break an arm once I pick up a T4 your payin for it. ;)

[TPhalen]

Sure....bill me!!! :)

[RacerRob]

So why don't the distributors have them yet???? I called EVERY one we deal with, and they all still say they have yet to see them.

[k_sw31]

Those pictures were taken about three days ago, have some patience. ;)

[TPhalen]

Hobby People just received theirs. It should be any time now....

[GT Freak]

Why is it everyone HAS TO HAVE the latest version of this truck?? id b happy with a T2 if possible :(

[wolfboy117]

a t2? are u sure about that...thats an old truck, i can see a t3, why because the t3 is old, and outdated compared to the xxx-t its at a loss, but the t4 hopefully will be better than the xxx-t, people just want performance...

[BL10T]

I had the option of waiting for the T4 to be released or just rebuild and hop-up my aluminum RC10T. I spent more money in the end, but I love the 10T. Its kinda unique to bash/race against the newer vehicles--T3, T4. Associated has excellent parts support for my 12-year old truck.

The main improvement on the plastic trucks--T3 and T4--seems to be narrower bulkheads with longer suspension arms. I should think this makes em better for jumps. On the other hand, the 10T and T2 have the exact same arms and bulkhead widths to the RC10GT which is still going strong in nitro racing.

Still, the T4 looks really nice and may be a bit lighter in graphite trim than the 10T. It also has an even wider track for more stability. Anybody know if it can take 7 cells up the middle? My brushless systems like 7 cells.

JC

[not.enough.toys]

T4 is in effect! This is my second electric truck ( first was a very used xxxt). Not too fond of the plastic shock caps, other than that everything seems allright. Having driven a tmaxx, and three mugen 1/8 for the last few months, I drove the t4 better than I have ever driven my 4wd buggies, and this was only my second race with an electric truck. T4 is staying while the MBX5 will have to find another owner.

[k_sw31]

Since the shock bodies are metal (I beleive teflon coated aluminum) there is not I single problem I have noticed interms of shock leakage...on the associated shocks, traxxas, on the other hand. ;)

[not.enough.toys]

The shocks are anodized, not teflon coated. It would be nice if ae included matching aluminum shock caps. Oh well, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

[k_sw31]

Nah, the team and factory team shocks are not anodized, see here: http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_t4/kitt4_comparisons.htm

:)

[gubby]

theyre hard anodized though...right?


i'm thinking about picking up a t4 for my next car, which could be a while. i would reallly like to race my b4 but the nearest track has a race once every few months:eek:
it sucks, i wanna race:(

maybe i will call them and see when the next race is, even though i'm not the best driver when i hit the track:D i crash a lot when i try and go fast, but if i take it easy i dont crash but i seem like i'm going slow, i guess taking it easy is the right way. i looked like a complete newbie to rc the first time i took the b4 to the track for practice, but i kept crashing because it was my first mod motor and i was just having fun jumping as much as i could:D

maybe xmas will be a good time for a t4 kit:D

[Skribble]

w00t. Saw some T4 runs for the Mid Summer Classic / SHowtime Speedway in Bakersfield, Ca. Pretty nice and smooth, makes me want to ditch my Losi for a B4 or T4. Although, in Mod Truck, a T3 beat out all the XXX-Ts and T4s. :) And the driver pulled some faster lap times then Francis .. And he was running his XXX/XXX-4.

[Lapster]

Do you know who the "driver" was?

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Skribble
Although, in Mod Truck, a T3 beat out all the XXX-Ts and T4s. :)

Just more proof that its not the car that matters, its the driver. :)

[Skribble]

Originally posted by Lapster
Do you know who the "driver" was? Kyle Smichtz? Something similar. Note: There were two Kyles from that race .. Smichtz is like a local racer two, and all the So Cal dudes were impressed, LoL.

[Lapster]

Dang.... thats cool. I just ordered m T4... and I hope no T3's beat me, or xxxt's or other t4's either.:p

[Racin Rev]

So Tony, how is development on the 1/8 scale going? looking forward to the t4

[pumpkinfish]

My T4 is ordered. What pinion should I use with the Novak brushless setup?

[Skribble]

Originally posted by Skribble
Kyle Smichtz? Something similar. Note: There were two Kyles from that race .. Smichtz is like a local racer two, and all the So Cal dudes were impressed, LoL. Correction, Kyle Schmitz.

Sahooooot .. :)

[Lapster]

Does anyone with a T4 know if it has the same problem with the front bulkhead as the B4 did?

[k_sw31]

I have heard tidbits that AE has reworked the front bulkhead brace a bit, I personally haven't broken a bulkhead yet. But you might as well spend a few bucks for the aluminum one.

[Lapster]

Yea... ill probabyl just get the brace. Unlike my B4 which I got the aluminum brace and bulkhead.

[TPhalen]

Yes, we have re-vamped the front bulkhead brace.

Take note, though, that the current aluminum brace WILL NOT WORK with the newer B4's or the T4. The newer B4's and the T4 both have new longer front inner hinge pins that work with the newer front brace. If you still wish to purchase the aluminum one, it will include the older, shorter front inner hinge pins. At least it should!!!! :)

[DIrTjUNkie]

Im having a clearance issue with the steering rack rubbing against the upper brace. The servo saver arm rubs the the front brace when testing steering.

Can You Help? :confused:

[not.enough.toys]

Try tightening your servo saver a bit, that may work.

As for what pinion to use with the brushless, I have tried a 17 on a really small indoor track, and an 18 on a good size outdoor track, and it seems to work. My motor does get warm and the esc gets hot, but that is normal. I am using 3000 nimh with the bl, and I am getting LONG run times, 10min+

[vtl1180ny]

Well... Got my T4 2 days ago, LHS had a few in stock... I almost went Losi, saved myself in time... I've only ran 1 battery pack through it so far but it handles like a dream compared to my (heavily modified) 10T... There's not much of a body to paint... Looking forward for some new body options for it...

[Lapster]

The T4 sounds like a great car. And the B4 was awesome for being the frist of the "brothers" out. Now they have kind of redone the bulkhead I think the T4 will be a real winner. Cant wait... my package is on its way!

[wolfboy117]

im just gonna be mad if they stop stocking xxx-t parts soon(that would be if losi came out with a xxxx-t or something) I mean i have a xxx-t which isnt even running yet, im still trying to get money for more parts. than again, its not like the xxx-t and the xxx are really outdated, i mean the t4 and b4 are pretty close, mabe slightly better, maybe losi will just realease mfe and ke with upgraded front ends or w/e.

[DIrTjUNkie]

yeah thanks I pretty much rebuilt the steering rack again and tighten down the serv / save. and it worked! :) i must have been smokin somethin earlier
:rolleyes:

[Lapster]

What wheels will fit the T4? Will it be like the B4, able to fit losi rims... or is it stricly associated? Will the T3 rims fit?

[TPhalen]

Sorry DIrTjUNkie, just read the threads. Guess you figured it out. Thanks not.enough.toys for the help.

Lapster: answered yer question in the other T4 thread.

[Lapster]

I was also wondering if the xxxt wheels would fit... or are they not offset right?

[Ford Racer#1]

where do you guys live!! i live in wisconsin and they still havent come :( im first on the waiting list. I WANT MY T4 LOL

[ttweedle]

Guys, the losi wheels will not work... On that note Im glad since I have like 20 sets of rears already mounted.

[Lapster]

Ok... thats ok... I just bought my first pair of wheels for my T4. Pink tapers. But there will be more from where that came from!

[not.enough.toys]

Glad to see that it worked dirtjunkie.

[Lapster]

Score! Fed Ex said it is on the truck right now waiting to be delivered!... Cant wait.

Too bad I am leaving for the track is 3 hrs. If it came now I could have it built by then.

[cheerwhiner]

I am considering getting this truck instead of the T3 now.........

what would be a good non expensive motor for the T4? Not looking to seriously race either........

[wolfboy117]

speed gems 2, 30 bucks, has the bigg brushes from the p-94 motor so little less maintnance and all around good stuff!

[ttweedle]

Just got the Threaded shocks, Grpahite kit, and some Acer Racing Ceramic bearings for my T4, Put on some Ti turnbuckles, and put all my alluminum screws from my FTT3 onto my T4, lastly I built another Diff with the light drives, so now I have two diffs always ready. I bought some new pro match batts, with 1.175 v , and bought some Fantom Team ed, P2K2's. Hopefully I do this thing justice when I run in the ROAR Region 3 race down in Savannah next month. My wife is a really mad that I spent 120 bucks on bearing, when the kit came with them already...:rolleyes: If I could only make her understand, that I have to have the very best...lol Actually I just got $1000.00 bonus check.

Later,

Travis

[Accord]

My LHS hasn't even gotten in my pre-ordered T4 yet, I think i'm going to cancel the order from them and buy from somewhere that already has them in stock. Does anyone know of any online stores with T4's in stock (besides tower)?

Thanks

[Lapster]

I just recieved mine from www.rcmodels.com.

[mack]

This is my first Associated so bear with me. I went to put my built up battery pack in the battery box and it is about 3/16 to narrow. It looks like it was designed for stick packs. You Experienced Associated drivers have solved this. I hate to hack on my battery box. What is the fix ?

[Ford Racer#1]

Team Associated made their battery boxes narrow so you battery aint bouncing all over the place. try a lil harder.

what i do is put the battery in and if it doesnt go in leeave it as it is and put the battey hold down strap on and it goes in (it does for me anyway

[gubby]

i think you could also try bending the battery bars in slightly with some needle nose pliers....

[mack]

Thats exactly what I did. It just barely fits. Thanks

[Gped0124]

I just won a t4 off of ebay. I still havn't gotten a tracking number yet, but the auction said 2nd day shipping. Won it on wednesday. Friday baby! or monday...

[crazy1]

Any one try any setups other than the one AE gave us? At the track Saterday night a sometimes sponsered Losi Driver checked out my T4. He seamed to think the 19 tooth pinion, the stock spur and a monster stock motor was way over geared. What did he mean? He also liked the rear end a little higher that AE calls for and the battery more forward. It was something to wacth him drive it. And in return recive a setup. Now just how do I go about getting a low level AE driver to come out to the track? We race at least nine electric trucks each race day. Help to get the electric program going from someware would be nice. Every body seams to want to run 1/8 scale.

[Lapster]

Im runnin a monster stock and have a 22t pinion in it. Never had any heat problems.

[BTE214]

I just ordered a T4 from Tower!

[crazy1]

Just how much weight will I save if I go to the carbon parts set? Will it make a diffrence I can feel? Am just above novice class driver.

[BTE214]

I finished the kit! I am working on the body now. My only gripe with the kit is those captured rod screws. As I put the last ones in, my allen driver got rounded and so did the screws. Oh well that's a very small problem and maybe it only happened to me. Anyway, I think it's a great truck.

[k_sw31]

Ah, but those little button head screws are so much nicer than e clips. :)

Do your self a favor and pickup a quality .05" hex driver for 10-15$, it will make building cvd's and using those little screwings sooooo much easier. :)

[vtl1180ny]

There were a few of my screws which didn't even have the hex heads in them... I hate those tiny little screws, screwed up a perfectly good allen driver too...

[crazy1]

Use a dremel to cut off end of allen wrench when it starts to get rounded. I had the same problem with the little screws.

[mack]

I just bought a set of Losi TiN Coated allen wrenches. They are very pricy but several screws I thought were going to be real problems came out. I payed $46 for the set.

[k_sw31]

I have a few of thier hex wrenches, they seem to work very well, for a losi anyways. ;)

[BTE214]

I finished the body! It looks pretty good for my first time. I will post some pictures as soon as I can.

[BTE214]

By the way, for those of you who don't know, where the cvd bone meets the axle put some shrink tubing. This will prevent the little cvd cros pin from falling out.

[xxxkat]

crazy1,The carbon kit is alot(and it's alot)lighter,esp. the chassis,I tried to order the threaded shocks and I was told they only had the front shocks out,no rears.I bought mine 1 1/2 weeks ago and still have not put it together,just got all the hop up parts yesterday,so I will put it together this weekend,any set up tips?

[mack]

I have gone thru several sets of rear hub bearsing bears on two different trucks. Anyone else seen this problem.

[crazy1]

XXXCAT is to light to be roar legal with out adding weight? I would like to be lighter but do not want to take off weight with carbon parts just to add it back on with lead weights. I am using a Novak Dually, Novak XXL FM reciver, Trinity monster stock motor, and the gold/green label GP 3300's battery's. Would the carbon kit put me under weight? As to set up tricks the rear shock spacers need to be just a little bit more than what the manual says. Other wise the stock setup seems to work good for me. I am still a slower driver than the rest of the good guys at the track with this new truck but have been leading laps and wining as the T4 lets me make less mistakes and crash less Slow is fast. I seem to be able to control it better.

[xxxkat]

It should be still over,The xxxt/mf makes weight and as far as parts(light stuff)the T4 is the same weight as the xxxt.

[crazy1]

thanks xxxkat.

[lil_general_lee]

I've had my T4 for a while now but these past 2 weekends I've really been able to put some track time on it. The truck built really fast and really easy. Out of the box the truck was awsome but needed some fine tuning to get it dialed. It only needed a little more steering and rear traction. The changes I made was added some slight toe out, increased the front camber, cut a battery foam spacer in half to center the pack and ran Proline M3 Step Pins in the rear. I won the A-main in the stock truck class last weekend so it worked for me. All I can really say is that it's a fast and well designed truck.

RJ

[BTE214]

Here are some body on shots. They're kinda bad cause the only kind of camera that works now is a web cam. Oh well. Right now im just running it with stuff that was cheap or lying around. Even with the low grade stuff it's still fun. Im saving up for some stuff for stock class racing. This was my first paint job. I think it went ok and was tons of fun painting.

[Cotharyus]

How do the carbon parts hold up as opposed to the stock parts? I broke my first suspension arm on sunday when I T-boned a sideways novice in a straight. For right now I'm going to replace it with a stock part, but I was curious about getting carbon sets for extra's from this point on, but I don't want to weaken what's already probly the easiest break point on the truck.

[Cotharyus]

While I'm at it, that's the deal with the "inline axl" upgrade for the T4? What's the difference between that and the trailing axl, and what the advantages?

[mack]

I built my second T-4 with the Carbon set. I was dissapointed that the front shock tower broke more easly than the stock part on my first truck. I have been a big proponent of carbon replacement parts since I started racing a Losi XXX-4. The stock parts broke easly and the Carbon parts were much stronger. But I am not so sure about the Associated Carbon parts for the T-4. To be fair, the T-4 in general is a durable product.

[Cotharyus]

Anyone know why the steering rack was replaced with a new part number? The new one is hard to get and the old one impossible. I hope they made it stronger or something, because mine broke. Nothing like not being able to get the part you need....

[Lapster]

What do you mean by steering rack? You mean how you got a different little sheet fo yellow paper with your T4? I got that too... and it also comes with a beefier front bulkhead than the first B4's.



COME ON PEOPLE THIS THREAD IS DYING!

[badandy]

Originally posted by Lapster

COME ON PEOPLE THIS THREAD IS DYING!

Okay, well then I'll hopefully get it started again and gain some info while doing so....

I am about to re-enter the hobby after being out of it for 14 years! When I left I had a A&L RC10 that was all Graphite for my 2wd offroad buggy. I am partial to AE and am thinking about buying a T4 but am a little confused over the ready to run vs. the kit so I need to ask some questions...

1. Other than one is kit form and the other is RTR are there any other differences as far as maybe upgraded parts in the kit that the RTR does not have?

2. Is the RTR electronics good enough to race with while I sort out what electronics I really would like to have? I am a bit confused about the new radios and speed controls/brushless setups as I have not done much research. I was thinking about buying the RTR which will get me on my way without making a mistake in my initial purchases of a radio or speed control/reciever.

Fire away on the suggestions as I want to hear what you think you would do in the same situation

[k_sw31]

Well, here is what I would do if I were in your shoes...

Path 1) Buy a kit or RTR, and add a stock motor to race in the stock class. The RTR would save some money, but you should still expect to spend about 200$ on a nice charger and batteries, if not more. I would do the kit myself just because I can pick out everything I want. I would do a novak dually esc, with no turn limit so I could race mod if I ever wanted too. Then I would add a nice FM radio between 100-200$.

Path 2) Get the kit, and buy a brushless setup from novak. With a brushless motor, you will have practically no maintenence to perform on the motor. The system is 235$ in all, but will save you money through not having to buy a lather or paying others to cut your comm.

Then like mentiond above, spend 200$ on a charger and batteries, and add a nice FM radio.

The only problem with brushless is it is not legal for ROAR racing. That particular system can be easily programmed to have similar power to a stock motor, other wise it has the power of a 10 turn (about 35-40 mph). You'll have to check with your local club if they are ok with you racing your brushless in with the stock guys.

Good luck.

[xxxkat]

The good thing about the RTR is it's really the same truck as the kit,differences are blue shocks,dog bones,and tires,I think thats it.I bought the T4 kit and added the hop up's first thing,but I had an FM radio already and speed controler and good servo,If I was starting out I would buy the RTR,get a good charger some 3300's and drive it.The stock radio system will work,I dont really like the RTR's speed controler(no switch).and you do need a better servo,but if your starting over all that stuff can come later,I to just "started" over about 2 years ago,I went with a kit,FM radio,top of the line speed controler,guess what I dont own any of that stuff now,sold it all and went with a different radio,speed controler,truck,so do your self a favor and go with the RTR drive it for a while and see what you want,dont spend more than you have to. ;)

[Cotharyus]

It only took 3 weeks for someone to reply to the question there lapster - the thread was effectively dead. The steering rack being everything from the turnbuckle that conects to the servo, to the turnbuckle that connects to the steering hubs, non-inclusive of the turnbuckles. If you look on associated's web site, it has the part number that's listed in the manual, and it notes that the part number has been replaced. Unfortunately, neither part appears to be available anywhere. I assume that the rack on my truck was the old style, because there was no yellow slip of paper in with my T4.

[Lapster]

Thats what i would say too. I had a yellow slip of paper in one of my bags... telling me to go by what it said and not the manual for a few steps.

[badandy]

Originally posted by xxxkat
The good thing about the RTR is it's really the same truck as the kit,differences are blue shocks,dog bones,and tires,I think thats it.I bought the T4 kit and added the hop up's first thing,but I had an FM radio already and speed controler and good servo,If I was starting out I would buy the RTR,get a good charger some 3300's and drive it.The stock radio system will work,I dont really like the RTR's speed controler(no switch).and you do need a better servo,but if your starting over all that stuff can come later,I to just "started" over about 2 years ago,I went with a kit,FM radio,top of the line speed controler,guess what I dont own any of that stuff now,sold it all and went with a different radio,speed controler,truck,so do your self a favor and go with the RTR drive it for a while and see what you want,dont spend more than you have to. ;)
Very good information...

Another couple of questions if you don't mind me asking.

You say the shocks are different? what is different about them other than color? I assume it is anodizing?

The dog bones are different? I thought both kit and rtr had MIP's? I know the kit has MIP's so does that mean the RTR has the traditional style?

The tires are also different? again, I know the kit has pro-lines and I thought the rtr did as well.

[xxxkat]

The RTR uses dog bones(like the "old" days)But if you look at what most of the team drivers are using it's dog bones(free's up the back)On the tires they are copy's of the good pro lines(harder compound)On the shocks,the kit's are hard anodized and teflon coated,in all reality I dont think you could tell a difference between them,I think they last longer(the kit's)I used the blue ones on my gt for quite a whille and never noticed any performance loss.I still think if your just getting back into racing the RTR is a good way to get started,On a charger I would look at the Reedy Quasar line and some GP3300(best "bang" for your buck)A good stock motor (P2K2 type)and go racing,I dont think the losi RTR is as good a truck as the Associated RTR(even though in my opinion it comes with a better radio system)It's all for fun anyway.:D

[b3guyRC10]

I got my T4 in september and all I can say is that it is an excellant truck! I have not broke, bent or stripped a thing in my truck, and I am very very close to the fastest time on this layout. And that was set by an AE sponsered driver with a T4! Hey Tphalen, if I can keep this up, I'll be applying for a partial sponsership soon! :D

My T4,
-Jr XS3 radio
-Novak fusion ESC
-Jr Nes 4735 servo (way under rated at .15 transit, 90 oz's of torque, more like .10)
-SMC matched 3000HV's
-Speed Jems pro 12x2

-Will

[Lapster]

excellant...sponsered...sponsership... LOL... I like they way you spell... But I hop you dont drive like you spell!

Yea... the T4 is an awesome truck... but I might try a xxx-t MF2 when it comes out... I just cant get the T4 quite as dialed in as my b4 is... I will give it about a month next season... then if it still sint good enough... I will try a xxx-t.

the T4 is awesome on clay though.

[k_sw31]

Lapster- I say you pickup a brushless/li poly combo and put the spank down in those 15-20 minute nitro mains. :D

[Cotharyus]

Can anyone tell me what they're changing on the T4 now? They were in stock everywhere, and now they're backordered like three weeks or something - usually a good sign of a running change. Of course, I'd be happy if I could just get my hands on a steering rack (going on 4 weeks since I broke mine).

[Lapster]

Hehe..... get a BL for nitro.... Or i could just buy a whole new truck..(GT) with the money I would have spent on the BL and the Li-Poly cells and charger.

[k_sw31]

Then count in a 200$ engine, fuel, glow plugs, glow starter, FT GT, starter box and other nitro tuning stuff, your at about the same, if not over. :D

Besides, 40 minute run times? Way to cool. :D

[Racin Rev]

what is the story with the li poly batts? are they avaliable? from who? how much? how good?

[k_sw31]

Look for the thread on them in the electric forum.

Basically, the benefits are enormous. A guy got over 40 minutes of constant track running on an 8turn brushless setup, putting some 94 laps in...now that is what I call practice!

The batteries are around 160$ a pop, and they require a special charger which will run you 100-200$ depending on which one you get.

The only thing bad about them is there have been a few cases where they burst into fire while running/charging. This seems to be do to user error.

Reguardless, I am waiting till the cells are a little safer and the price comes down a little.

There is a link to the manufacturer in the thread.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by k_sw31
The only thing bad about them is there have been a few cases where they burst into fire while running/charging.

Well that's always good...:p

I haven't really read through this thread(yet), but how many people here are running the Novak SS in their T4, and how many people run both a T4 and a B4? I've got a B4, and was *kind of* thinking about running a T4 in mod with the SS, but it would be a 3rd class(hence the *kind of*...3 classes is a lot), and I was curious how they compare and how the T4/SS combo performs. Also, are the recommended hopups for the T4 about the same as the B4? Thanks.

[mack]

I have 2 T4s, One I am running a Novak ss on the sportsmans setting, the other a 17t. I am a huge fan of the Novak ss. I previously had it in a xxx-4. No maintenance, no problems, lots of HP. :D

[Bassman00]

Originally posted by mack
I have 2 T4s, One I am running a Novak ss on the sportsmans setting, the other a 17t. I am a huge fan of the Novak ss. I previously had it in a xxx-4. No maintenance, no problems, lots of HP. :D

That's great to hear as I have T4 kit and a SS enroute. It'll be my first R/C kit. Hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew. I currently have an Evader that my oldest son will get to play with.

Funny how this hobby takes over as I'm starting to think about what to get next and the T4 hasn't even arrived yet. ;)

PaulD

[Lapster]

Then count in a 200$ engine, fuel, glow plugs, glow starter, FT GT, starter box and other nitro tuning stuff, your at about the same, if not over.


I would just have to spend about 400 on the truck.... I have pulgs, fuel, starters everything!:p

[robert L.]

T4 owners im thinking of getting a T4 but im not sure yet so what do you guys think about your T4's?

[Lapster]

Hehe... what do you think I think of my T4???!!!!

If I didnt like it do you think I would have one? (O yea... for those of you who thought i was about to get a losi... im not. I had a bent hinge pin on the rear arm... causing to to go though bumpy sections very erratically.)

But now that that is sorted out... it is an awesome truck... durable, fast, easy to work on.... everything I could ask for.

[SpeedMunkey]

Ok, how is this for a shopping list:

Associated RC10-T4
JR Racing XR3
Trinity Gold Peak 3300 VIS Batteries
DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger
Novak Super Sport BL system

What else do I need to get moving? Be specific people, I hate surprise purchases.

[pumpkinfish]

Get some spur gears to find what works best for your track. I have the same setup and my Noval SS has taken up to a 22t pinion with no problem.

[tl01dude03]

Hello,

I am going to be getting a t4 soon, and i need to know what tooth pinion would be suitable for use with the included spur gear(if it includes one).

Thanks

[k_sw31]

Depends on which motor you're using. As a rule of thumb, the high the motor turns, the higher the pinion, and vise versa. There should also be a gearing chart in the back of your manual.

I'm not sure on the exact tooth number though, someone else can probably help you out on that.

[tl01dude03]

i havent got it yet, so i dont have a manual. i plan on using 13 and 15 turn motors.

[mack]

Help, I have broken 2 servo savers on both trucks, many of the T4 owners have experienced the same problem. Our local hobby shops tell us the part is no longer available, because of the breakage problem it is being redesigned. Anyone have a source for an aftermarket solution ?

[microrcdude]

well, dynamite makes an aluminum servo arm.
www.horizonhobby.com

[NitroBoy24]

Well finally the car Ive wanted is available rtr...Anyone have experience with the T4 rtr or B4 rtr? I dont want to spend a ton of money for a kit so rtr is definitely the way to go in my case. Hopefully I can drop a Novak SS in it that is if I get one :cool:. I saw a video with the T4 and a SS and god that thind would wheely all day long :D.

[mack]

If the T4 is wheelieing then the front end is way to light and the car will not handle well at all. But it will wheelie.

[badmojo13]

if it wheelies loosen the slipper then it will put the wheels back on the ground and I think it will be a bit more stable. I've had my t4 for months now and I haven't broken anything but rear wheels. I know on the t3 you had to tighten the rear wheels so they were snug, but so they wouldnt bind. on the t4 if you don't tighten them all the way down it will rip the insides out of the hubs in the tires

[NitroBoy24]

Glad to see this thread is dead...Time to chat with the guys that have a B4 rtr...

[Lapster]

How does the B4 forum have so many more posts than this?


BTW.... does anyone know where I can just buy a Ti turnbuckle set... and not the hinge pins included?

[xxxkat]

Associated makes some..if you dont mind blue,It seems like the T4 is not selling like the B4 did,because the T4 is not really any better than the the MF XXXT.So I dont think their are as many T4 owners out their.I've had mine for about 2 mo. and never even drove it..yet,it's been pissen me off,working on the nice day's and when I have time off it's been raning.. :mad: So no racing for me.maybe soon,I hope:D

[badmojo13]

not better than the mf yeah right I think it kick that trucks arse. lunsford also makes the tt for the t4

[xxxkat]

Well explain what makes the T4 so much better ? I like the T4 more but I dont think it's any better.In the hands of a capable driver you can and will win with either truck.The T3 is still a good truck and more than capable of beating a T4 and a xxxt.;)

[Lapster]

Well... in my mind the T4 is better for a few specific reasons.

-Durability
-Corner speed
-Seems to respond to changes better
-Price

And I actually meant CVD's... I cant find MIP Shiny CVD's anywhere for the T4.... I need new CVD's and dont want steel. I have no clue why I said turnbuckles.

[bad viking]

Hi
I getting a t4 soon.
I am going to use a 17turns motor.
witch piniongear should i use for good acc/top speed


Do you have any problems with the car; any weak points??

Bad Viking

[Lapster]

I am not totally sure.... but I have gone by what some people (on this forum) say about gear ratios, and I have never found a better starting point than the manual.

Start out with the reccomended manual suggestion... then go from there.

(Personally I would go for about a 19t.... for my track)


And weak points..... hmm.... I used 25wt oil with the stock setup to eliminate some push... other than that.. my original setup worked pretty well. But once you get your car set up to your track... it is a very fun/easy truck to drive.

[Baja-Destroyer]

i got a T4 it comes tomorrow and i got p2k2pro and explorer 2 for it cant wait!!!

[bad viking]

Associated RC10T4 Team Truck Kit I
Associated Carbon Parts Set T4
Jackal Hobbies Hot Snakes Paint Transfer
Team Orion Super Duty Plus 3000 E-Maxx (2)
Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 6-Pack Odd 15-25T
Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 6-Pack Even 16-26T
Associated Kimbrough Spur Gear 87T
Dubro Double-Sided Tape (3)
Dubro Assorted Heat Shrink Tubing (12)

i get a 17 turne ,
lrp sport and
hitec 645 servo

how dos this hear

does the b4 spur fit the t4???

i have order it

:)

[Lapster]

Yep.... b4 and t4 spurs are interchangeable.

As well as all of the tranny parts.

[Stocker452]

with the stock spur gear you should probably use a 24-25t pinion gear. I use a 12turn motor with a 21 tooth pinion and still have enough torque to pull wheelies(heh heh)

[Baja-Destroyer]

i just finished building my T4 and im running a 27turn p2k2pro and explorer 2 and 21tooth pinion gear only got to run it in basement tho cuz all the snow outside but i dont think it will disapoint me:D

[bad viking]

Hi
1st; the bad spelling up there was not my work; a friend borowed my profile. (As you see, my English is better than his; how dos this hear or i have order it for example.

I just have a simlpe question I know what turns is, but what I cant figure out is this wind thing; what is it, how does it work and such? ( Im a norwegian guy trying to expand my rc knowlege)
Whats the diference between a 17turn trippel and a 17trun single for example ? I have always driven nitro so this electrical thing is not so familiour. I know "what goes where" (u know what I mean) and what it does, but my motor knowlege is BAD!!!


The BAD VIKING

[chevyman007]

Well basically turns is how many times the wire is wrapped around the armature, and when they say single, double, and triple it means that it is double windings. single windings, and such. A double has more torque than a single therefore it accelerates faster. Hope this helps

[The_In_Kid]

how durable is the T4?

i have a duratrax evader and have been exteremly happy but the last race day i broke the rear plate for no reason after a jump

[Lapster]

My T4 is extremely durable... I have only broken a front a-arm. But... I was tripling a jump on the track... and someone hit the truck on the front of the jump... so it landed nose down on a pipe.

You probably smacked the track really hard when you bottomed out after the jump.

[Baja-Destroyer]

i broke an a arm too but it was very small and repairable i want them to come out with some aluminum a arms soon:D

[microrcdude]

i think GPM already makes them

[tl01dude03]

What kind of adjustment should i make if my car has trouble steering in bumpy parts of the track?

Thanks

[MasterGoa]

Originally posted by bad viking
Hi
1st; the bad spelling up there was not my work; a friend borowed my profile. (As you see, my English is better than his; how dos this hear or i have order it for example.

I just have a simlpe question I know what turns is, but what I cant figure out is this wind thing; what is it, how does it work and such? ( Im a norwegian guy trying to expand my rc knowlege)
Whats the diference between a 17turn trippel and a 17trun single for example ? I have always driven nitro so this electrical thing is not so familiour. I know "what goes where" (u know what I mean) and what it does, but my motor knowlege is BAD!!!


The BAD VIKING

M,Kay...

Motor windings come in wind and strand
number.

If you have a 12 turn single, a single strand of
probably 16 Gauge solid wire is used.

If you have a 12 turn double, two strands of 20 gauge will be used.

If you have a 12 turn triple, three strands of 24 gauge will be used.

What this does is this:

Less strands, less weight and less magnetic inductance.

Which equates to more acceleration because of less weight of the armature
but less inductance so less high speed.

More strands, more weight but more magnetic inductance as multiple strands
work together to turn and therefore get better speed.

Which equates to a smoother acceleration and higher top speed.

Top speed will be affected by around 10%.

By comparason, I figure that the number of turns is your
displacement of a gas engine, and the
strands is the number of cylinders.

So a 500CC monocylinder will have gobs
of torque but not a great redline,
while a 2 cyl 500CC engine will have less pickup
but a much better high speed as two cylinders are working
toghether to rev the engine.

Hope this helps :D

[Lapster]

What kind of adjustment should i make if my car has trouble steering in bumpy parts of the track?

Is the front and rear getting all out of wack over those sections... or is it just the front? I would try loosening up the suspension. Try going to 25wt oil and a #2 piston. Keep the springs stock. I have used this on a fairly bumpy track... seemd to work.

BTW... do that on front and rear.

[tl01dude03]

the rear stays planted, the fronts are bouncing on and off of the track.

[Lapster]

Then just loosed the fron suspension a little.

BTW... what is your suspension setup up front right now?

[tl01dude03]

Manual setup, except i moved the shocks to the innermost mounting position. The track i run on has smallish jumps and i can get around very weel with the truck slammed.

[Lapster]

Try moving the shocks to the middle position on the tower and outer on the arm. And have you tried moving your pack to the front? Lower the wt of the oil... and if that doesnt work... change to a softer piston.

[tl01dude03]

I moved the pack all the way to the front and changed pistons. That did the trick, it takes the rutty corners great now.
Thanks a lot!

[Stocker452]

how durable is the T4?

I set up a ramp at the top of my back yard hill (15 feet high about 30 degrees steep) and i jump it almost all the way to the bottom with no breakage. I just broke a front A-Arm because I clipped a Gas Lamp pole in my front yard while going about 20 MPH. Also the rear body mounts are the weakest things ever. I hate them. I wish RPM would make some new one for the T4. If you are looking for new ones on tower hobbies they are the same as B4 Wing mounts.

[k_sw31]

A few companies make aluminum rear body mounts..namley gpm racing.

[FLYBOY7]

boy is this thread dead... LOL...

i need a reply asap... i've read quite a few pages here on this thread.... but haven't run upon this.... Does Pro-line sell Velocity rims yet for the T4??? i always run yellow rims, and i can't find anyone with yellow rims in stock... oh and... i read earlier in the thread that XXX-T rims won't fit, but are the rears that much of an offset difference?? and why won't the fronts fit??

thanksssssss...

[FLYBOY7]

i just tried my T3 Pro-line rims, front and rear.... and they look very very close to the T4 rims both on and off the truck.... width looks pretty close to the same front and rear.... are the T3 and T4 rims interchangeable??

[ttweedle]

I have both T3 and T4 rims and I can see no difference what so ever.

[Lapster]

The rims have the same dimensions... but some of the old T3 wheels such as this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2987&P=Z) have the big deep dish. The new T4 rims like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFDX1&P=Z) have the shallow dish.... and a hole in the center. The wheels are the same dimensions.... just look different.

[FLYBOY7]

thanks for the info Lapster...

i did notice the rims that came with my kit had the small flame PL logo on them..... so i guess they are just the T2/T3 PL rims...

i was thinking since the T4 is wider than a T3 that the rims would be different offsets... but i guess it gets it's width increase solely on longer A-arms...

anywhos... anybody using the optional heavier servo saver spring?? the stock spring works fine the in B4... i haven't had a chance to drive my T4 yet (first outing is this weekend), is the stock servo spring heavy enough for the truck??

[Lapster]

Yea.... the stock servo spring is fine.... I have had no problems with any part of the steering on my T4 yet.

[FLYBOY7]

fyi... after getting in some track time n carpet, the stiffer servo saver spring is a must.... it is very obvious on a super high bite track like carpet that the saver is flexing wayyyy 2 much.... but it's not a "must" on looser surfaces... i don't think you'ld need it on most dirt tracks unless they are blue groove...

[Cotharyus]

Ok folks. I was trying to get my suspension right at the track today, and got that sorted, but the problem is more of a balance issue now. Over the large jumps (and small ones too) the truck wants to nose down. Putting the battery all the way back helped some, but even like that if you didn't keep the throttle on just right, it would nose down. Now to the real problem. When it noses down, and the batteries try to shift forward - they can and they do. The problem appears to be the battery strap flexing, or not being long enough, one. Is there a longer strap made? Trinity makes the aluminum strap, but it's shorter - obviously not going to flex, but what about the weight issues? Anyone else run into this? It looks like I may have to put some lead weights in the rear of the truck to get it to jump.

[Lapster]

I dont really get what you mean about the battery. Make sure you have 3 foam pads. The stock battery bar is fine.


As for the suspension...

1.) Check the ride height. Rear- Bones level. Front - Arms level.

2.) Make sure the rear is preloading right. ( can you tell us your current oil, pison, and spring) You want the truck to spring off the jump... not just launch off the jump.

3.) make sure the rear is not bottoming out on the face of the jump causing the rear to get kicked up.


As for the weight issue, make sure there is not an excessive amount of dirt on one side of the car. Make sure your tires are balanced.

[Cotharyus]

The suspension is fine - when I say I was trying to sort it out, I was just trying to get it dialed in for that track. As far as the battery shifting, I couldn't keep the nose of the truck up, and the battery was pushing the battery spacers out through the gap between the end of the strap and the front of the battery box, allowing the battery to slide forward, and push itself out as well - the strap was flexxing to let the battery out, and I assume to let the spacers out too.

[Lapster]

Woah, I tried to fit my foam through the gap between the servo and battery bar... I couldnt... I would have had to break the strap. I would get a new bar and new pads.

[FLYBOY7]

Coth... at first i was gonna say "make sure u aren't using a shorter B4 battery strap on your truck"... but after checking them out on mine, they won't interchange at all....

with that said, i've never had a foam or a battery even try to come out of my B4 or T4, even when endo'ing on huge triples.... so the only thing i can say is to make sure you have the 2 bolts tightened down far (low) enough so that there is no way the foams or battery can move or slip out the front...

[Cotharyus]

I'm getting a new battery strap - cause like I said dude, they're not "slipping" out the front - the bar is *bending* to let the cells and the pads slide out. Any preferences on the bar? Associated makes three for it, and then there's the high dollar trinity heat sink bar (I don't think I need battery heat sinks, they don't get that hot) - are there any others, and which one would yall go for?

[ttweedle]

Cotharyus, I would just get another stock batt strap. Although, I can't fathom what you are talking about it bending and letting the batt fall out. If you could send a pic of how you set it up we could help. Mine seems like it would have to break the strap to get the batts out.

And on the front nosing down, I had that problem too, so I did what Billy Easton did and put one 1/4 ounce lead weight on both sides of the chassis in the very rear. It did wonders for my truck. It hasn't nosed down since.

[Cotharyus]

There's noting funny about the setup. I put it under a mag-glass today and there are little cracks all in the plastic. I suppose it's to AE's credit that it didn't break altogether. I can't fathom how it got all cracked up though.

[Lapster]

Most likely you didnt have the screws tightened enough, allowing the battery to move and when you were upside down. I would go for the carbon bar... it looks awesome and is strong.

[dave mac]

Im looking for aluminum steering blocks for the t4
does anyone have a link????

Thanks
Dave MAc

[Cotharyus]

Lapster - if anything the screws are over-tight. It's some times difficult to get the pins through the holes in the screws because you have to physically push down on the edge of the strap. I've been building and running these things for 17 years. I'm not about to let a battery be bouncing around inside a vehicle.

[Lapster]

My battery bar is the same way. I have my screws tightened all the way down. ( Maybe about 3/4 turns out) Is the pack soldered correctly. When you run your car is comes loose. (It is kind of hard to describe...)


Check to see if the pack is getting hung up on the side of battery holder ... or whatever you want to call it. Then when you are running your car it rattles loose.


Or did you cut your foam and it is skinnier than stock.. allowing it to go through the bar and servo?

[Cotharyus]

Well - the packs are soldered correctly. The fit down in the compartment with just enough room to spare that you can call it a perfect fit - only one pack has a slight bend to it that causes it to rub both sides of the compartment, but it still goes in very easy. The foams are cut the right size, but I'm going to try something different - I've got some new foam on the way that I'm not going to cut at all. We'll see what happens. If it still does the same thing, I'll try the new battery strap and see if that changes anything.

[Lapster]

Yea.... thats about the only thing left to do.

[theskunk]

okay, anybody have problems keeping the little pins in on the CVD's??? i had this problem on my T3 too, but i sold it before i had time to sit around and think about it.... open to suggestions!!!
thanks,
-Rob

[k_sw31]

Pull those grub screws out, clean them and the socket out really well, put a LOT of blue threadlock on, enough so it gushes out as you thread it in.

Also, pick up an actual wrench, this will allow you to tighten it down a lot more rather than with those L-wrenches.

[theskunk]

just did, lost a pin too, luckily my body clips are the exact same diameter....hehehhe.... works perfectly now, the guy that had this before me apparantly didnt build it quite right.... im doing wheelies with the best of them now! thanks guys. next question, anybody have some good setups? or any option parts i should just go ahead and buy before i break?
thanks,
-Rob

[Lapster]

I actually broke my first bulkhead last weekend in my truck. The shop didnt have any aluminum braces or bulkheads in, so I had to settle for plastis.

But I would say get an aluminum front bulkhead brace and titanium turnbuckles.

[speedydave]

I was just offered a full graphite T4 roller(no other hopups) for $100. It's been used for about 9 packs by someone that I know takes care of his stuff. Right now, I race a XXXNT and a B4, and I want an electric truck, but I'm not sure which truck to get because the B4 shares parts with the T4, but the XXXNT shares parts with the XXXT, the biggie being wheels/tires. So, my question is (for those of you who run a B4 and a T4), how many parts are actually shared between the two cars? Also, if any of you have driven a XXXT before, can you give me a (relatively unbiased) opinion of how the two compare? Thanks.

[Lapster]

Well, I would go for it for 100 bucks. For the following reasons...

-There are some parts like steering, tranny, battery bar, stuff like that. the t4 just has bigger shock towers, longer chassis, and some other stuff I am to stupid to list right now.

-Tires, shouldnt be an issue, the B4 wheels wont fit, neither will the XXXNT wheels, so you will have to get all new wheels no matter what.

-I have driven a xxx-t and a T4 (BTW, I have a T4), The T4 seems to be a little bit more driveable through the corners. You can really nail the throttle. Whereas with the xxx-t I would have to roll the throttle a little more. The 2 are basically the same through the air. The XXX-t seems to fair a tad bit better through bumpy sections.

I would reccomend the T4, But the xxx-t is also a great choice. But with already having a b4 I would say it is a no brainer.

[Breakin2]

How different does the T4 handle than the B4? I already have a B4 and I was just wondering if the T4 offers a different enough experience.

Thanks.

[Lapster]

They are a lot different. The buggies are a lot quicker and you can "whip" them around a track, yet still being able to have control. The trucks you can drive, they are more stable, and take bunps and ruts better. The B4 and T4 are a totally different experience.

[JDub765]

does anyone make an alloy rear bulkhead (the piece that the hinge pin capture screws screw into)?
I've been looking around and I can't find anyone that makes one...

[Lapster]

I have never seen one. I would check GPM, they would be your best bet.

[JDub765]

I just got in contact w/ hobbyetc.com and they say they will have GPM alum rear bulkheads in 3-4 weeks!

On another subject, I just busted my rear wheel bearings on one side. What would you guys recommend me replace them with?

[BTE214]

I hear boca bearings are the best, but a little expensive too. I use cheap duratrax's in my gt and they work fine. So I guess the answer is get bearings of the right size from any company you like. Also you should check that side making sure it was built correctly. I have not heard of busting bearings and I have not experienced it either.

[Lapster]

I would just get the associated bearings. If you seat them properly and lube them up they should be fine. Actually... they are the most duarble bearings I have found.

[Cotharyus]

Are there any upgraded suspension arms for the T4? I seem to break an inordinate number of front arms when I land jumps. It's not that I consistantly land badly, its just that the jump in question seems to result in really hard landings, even though it's not huge (3-4 feet of air, 8-10 feet of forward travel) and any landing that's less than perfect towards the front of the truck, and I don't even have to look - it breaks an arm. I was hoping to find some RPM arms or something, but no such luck yet. Anyone?

[microrcdude]

I think GPM makes some aluminum arms, but i'm not sure.

[gizmoguy303]

Might as well wake this thread up...

My T4 seems to be pushing just a tad in the corners. I'm not complaining, but if someone can offer me some tips to get it to dig in a little bit more, I'd be very grateful. In the front, I'm running the stock shock positions, 30wt, 0 toe and -1 degree of camber. In the rear, I changed the shocks to the inner hole on the shock tower, and am running 30wt with -.5 to -1 degree of camber. I'm running Edges in the front and Holeshots in the rear.

Thanks! :D

edit: Also, my battery is positioned one spacer from the front. (1 spacer in front, 2 spacers in rear)

[Lapster]

Your tire choice could be a problem. Try something like red Directionals up front, a more neutral tire. And how many washers are you running under your front ball studs?

[gizmoguy303]

Proline Edges are the most popular front tires at the track.

I'm going buy some in the M2 compound and I think that will help things bite a bit. I'm running 2 washers under each front ball stud.

[Lapster]

I used to have 2 under my ball studs. I am now running 4... with much better results on basically any track.

[gizmoguy303]

Would that be lowering the roll center? That should give me some more steering in the middle of the corners, shouldn't it? What kind of track do you run on? Thanks for all the help Lapster.

[Lapster]

That will lower the roll center. Basically lowering the roll center will allwo the car to roll more causing the tire to bite more. But you might scrub off a little bit more speed while the tire is searching for traction. The track I run on is hard packed with a small top layer of dust. When we water it softens up little, but when it is really dry and all we do is sweep the dust off, there is a ton of traction. Like driving on pavement.

[gizmoguy303]

I am very interested as to what your setup is. Care to share with me? :D

[Lapster]

I am always willing to share.

Front-

32.5 wit oil, green spring, #2 piston, .25" limiter, outer hole on tower, outer on a-arm, camber link- inner hole on tower, 4 washers, outer hole on hub
-.5* camber
Rear-

30 wt oil, # 2 piston, black spring, 2* anti squat, no limiters, inner hole on arm, middle hole on tower, -.5* camber. Camber link inner on tower, 2 washers, outer on hub

Probably forgot something, just tell me..

[gizmoguy303]

Thanks Lapster. Always nice to see what the other guys are running - and try to learn from it. :D

[Lapster]

What are you running? Is mine similar?

[gizmoguy303]

Mine's more close to the stock settings. I haven't really started to mess around with the settings up until now.

Front:
Silver spring, 30wt, #2 Piston, 3 Limiters, 2 washers under inner ball stud (inner hole), Outer hole in front hub. Middle hole on shock tower and outer hole on arm. -1 degree of camber, 0 toe-in, and 25 degrees of caster. Trailing axles. I might try adding some toe-out next time I make it to the track. Ride height: Arms slightly below level.

Rear:
Green spring, 30 wt, #1 Piston, 0 Limiters, 2 washers under inner ball stud (inner hole), middle hole in rear hub. Inner hole on shock tower and outer hole on arm. -.5 degree of camber. and 2 degrees of anti-squat. Short wheelbase. Ride height: Arms slightly below level.

I think I got everything. I'll try messing around with the settings next time I make it up to the track.

[gizmoguy303]

Also - the track I run on doesn't have any jumps with harshing landings, and entire layout is generally smooth. Do you think it would be better if I put #1 pistons in the fronts instead of the #2's?

[Lapster]

I wouldnt. If you do try that though, step up to 35wt shock oil, with a silver spring. Both have upsides and down sides.

[EmaxxRacer]

Hello all, what is the difference between the T4 team truck and RTR. Besides the RTR having radio equipment/motor/esc. I think the team truck has different shocks, MIP cvd's, and proline tires, is that all thats different? Thanks

[gizmoguy303]

I believe those are the only things that are different. The shocks are a lot smoother, though, and nothing beats building your truck yourself!

[Nobrushesforme]

On another subject, I just busted my rear wheel bearings on one side. What would you guys recommend me replace them with?

I have had this problem also, twice (just the inner hub bearing). The first time the outter race of the bearing locked in the hub, but I got it out. This weekend it happened again, but it looks to have melted part of the hub over the outter bearing as well and the outter race is stuck from inner bearing again.

I plan to get a new hub, but I was wondering if you had it happened again and if a new hub fixed it? Possibly something else?

[T4FREK]

hi, me and my friend just got our t4's. what do you think about this setup??

rc10t4 team kit
Lrp F1 pro reverse
Trinity Monster Pro Stock
Futaba 2pl
Trinity 3300 vis matched batts

[gizmoguy303]

If you plan on racing, you should get a forward-only ESC. With the batteries, you can save a lot of money by buying the GP3300's from a smaller matcher such as Pro-Match, Kinetix (my favorite), Fukuyama Racing, and many more.

[Nobrushesforme]

If you plan on racing, you should get a forward-only ESC. With the batteries, you can save a lot of money by buying the GP3300's from a smaller matcher such as Pro-Match, Kinetix (my favorite), Fukuyama Racing, and many more.

That ESC has reverse disable so it should be ok for racing.

[dalejrfan8]

Does anyone see a definite racing advantage of the t4 over the t3? Is it worth $180. I have a t3 but it needs a lot of work. I was just wondering whether I should fix my t3 or buy a t4.

[TC3Racer]

yea the T4 is a noticable difference. I raced a T3 and the T4 is alot easier to drive and everything works better and you can definitely notice the difference. turn in is much stronger and there is significantly less oversteer. Since its wider and the CG has been lowered it corners better and jumping is easier also. If you where good with the T3 you'll be great with the T4.

[Baja-Destroyer]

whats all ur say in the f/t t4 thats comming soon? should i upgrade my team t4 to f/t?

[GT Freak]

[COLOR=Blue]The good thing about the RTR is it's really the same truck as the kit,differences are blue shocks,dog bones,and tires,I think thats it.[/BLUE]
the kit comes with sealed bearrings also! :)

Just ordered a T4 from tower too. :cool: now the waiting begins, while i work to pay back the CC :D

[Baja-Destroyer]

u wont be disapointed it handles great espicially on the track and its got a better transmition than the xxxtmf2

[GT Freak]

JUST got it today, had to wait till after work to look at it though.... :(

but it looks like its gonna be a fun build for me! :D

[GT Freak]

ive just gotten the tranny built, but the spur shaft still wiggles, and i KNOW its NOT supposed to do that... has anyone else ran into this prob :confused: how did u fix it :confused:

[GT Freak]

DUH!! figured it out :rolleyes:

[GT Freak]

Well, shes finished! looking good so far, now to find a scheme for the body..hhmmmm any ideas :confused:

[Baja-Destroyer]

i just went to lhs and got rally green and racing red spray cans did green in the front back to just around the rear shock tower part of the body then red in the rear it blended nicely so i recomend a spray can cheaper than air brush... but almost as good

[GT Freak]

shes all white with the roswell project stickers on her.. nice looking, also added 3 flame stickers from a older troy lee designs helmit sticker kit i had. looookkiiggggg ggood! :D

[RustyT3FT]

Is there a major noticable difference in performance compared to a T3? I might try tradin it in for a T4 Team but not if my T3 factory team can lauch faster outta the hole. I don't race btw...

[xxxkat]

Their is a difference in the performance of the T4 over a T3,But with that said,The T3 is still a good truck,If your not racing why upgrade,I dont think your getting that much of a performance "boost",Thats if your bashing,If you were racing I would say get the T4,In racing my T4 was 4 to 6 tenths faster a lap than my T3..enough difference to warrent the switch,As far as just bashing went I could not really tell a difference,If all I was doing was just bashing I would keep the T3 and buy a brushless system for it..and have some fun..running for 15min.. :D

[RustyT3FT]

OK that's all I wanted to know. Are the Novak Brushless still $200 some?

[xxxkat]

Yes,make sure you get the mod one and not the stock one. :cool:

[GT Freak]

i just got my T4 together over the weekend, finally! i have a futaba rx and servo, a LRP f1 reverse ESC, and a P2K pro motor. the motor has no caps on it at all. HOW or WHERE can i get the right capacators for it :confused:

[yeti73]

Does the B4/T4 have the same axles as the B3/T3? I wanted to get some adapters that let you run pan car wheels, but they're only for 3/16" axles. I know they definitely ran on a B3, so I'm guessing the T3 is pretty much the same. What about the series 4 rigs?