View Full Version : Mugen MST-1 Truck Forum
gtwolfpack
05-05-2002, 06:47 AM
This is a scanned image of a Japanese RC magazine featuring the long-awaited stadium truck of Mugen that is about to be announced in the upcoming Shizuoka Hobby show (I think may be sometime in May) in Japan...Looks like a clone of Losi NT? Anyone who can please translate the japanese article in the picture into English for the prospective readers who has no idea whatsoever is written in there;)
TeamCarnage
05-05-2002, 09:50 AM
No need to translate this ad for me. I was really curious about Mugens offering into the Gas Truck wars mainly because I heard it was going to be equipt with a gear diff. Obviously, Its not. And your right it does look like a clone. But I'll still check it out when its available
Nutter
05-05-2002, 10:20 AM
LOL! I've heard many times that it'd be very similar to the Losi XXX-NT, but that is just going way too far with it.. I hope Losi sue them over that; it's nearly an exact clone.
-Nutter
gtwolfpack
05-05-2002, 10:36 AM
The article says the chassis is 3mm thick, it will be available in two forms, chassis only kit and MR-12 engine equipped one, It will have Proline tires, and from the shocks in the picture, the truck will have shock boots like 1/8 buggis. That's all I could understand in the article..Oh. BTW..one more, the article says the truck will be released late May...
GT, NT, Ultima ST-R, Rush and MST...gas truck scene will be hotter than ever..Uh? I hope 1/10 gas truck race will pick up in Japan as MST is released..
ragamuffin
05-16-2002, 10:58 AM
Lmao! :D Maybe it will have the more commonly available metric fasteners and the diff won't explode, lol!
Skribble
05-16-2002, 03:01 PM
I hope Losi sue them over that; it's nearly an exact clone. Why do you think they look similiar? Why is the Reflex similiar to the V-One R? Why is a Saleen S7 look like a McLaren F1? -_-;
CHAD BRADLEY
05-17-2002, 02:50 AM
you can see more pics on mugenracing.com under "whats new"
baileym
05-17-2002, 06:22 AM
Chad,
One word for you... Sold. That truck looks sweet, and it isn't a losi.
Clod_Killer
09-04-2002, 10:11 AM
SO does anyone have one yet?
banditwing
09-04-2002, 11:44 AM
WOW the first thing I thought when I saw that, is, it's a losi.
I mean come on, it's practically the exact same thing. The chassis looks identical. The arms are identical. The transmission looks the same. It looks like they copied the exact same thing, even the reciever cover. The only thing they changed is maybe the slipper device, wheel hubs, shocks, and center chassis brace. If I had to chose between the two, I'd keep my losi thank you very much.
Tstalion79
09-05-2002, 07:22 AM
Why is a Saleen S7 look like a McLaren F1?
Well the saleen s7 and the mclaren are completely different cars, unlike the losi and mugen. The saleen s7 has a v8, not v12 as well.
brknwheel
09-05-2002, 10:30 PM
One of the better drivers at the track I ran at last Sunday was running the Mugen truck. It has a lot of forward traction, I guess it comes with hardware to adjust the rear toe in. It jumps good, turns good, the truck impressed me. I really don't know what he would do if it broke though. The store only has losi and ae parts.
NitroOwnsYou
09-05-2002, 11:03 PM
This truck is far from a Slosi :D Pics below. BTW it uses the Mugen big bores from the XR buggy!
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2A3-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2AD-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2B6-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2D0-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen
NitroOwnsYou
09-05-2002, 11:05 PM
Mugen MST1
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2C0-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2C9-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
http://www.cartogra.com/rs/5E18D2B9-B771-11D6-B42C-0090277A760E/screen.jpg
Jr
rcboy618
09-06-2002, 12:34 AM
how can you even say its far from looking like a LOSI(if it was a slosi then i dont see how it can win so many races). im not saying its an exact copy, because its not, but you definetly cannot say its far from losi designs.
Tstalion79
09-06-2002, 06:09 AM
its really pathetic that mugen couldnt come up with their own truck. who wants to buy a clone of another truck? Seriously.
Crashbot2001
09-06-2002, 06:50 AM
Man, If you were to post those pictures somewhere else and ask people what it is, I bet 95% would say Losi... Some small differences, but only small
NitroOwnsYou
09-06-2002, 04:56 PM
You really have to set this truck next to a Losi to see the differences. It doe resemble the Losi, but even guys that own Losi's say that at first glance it looks like a losi, but it definately isnt.Also the steering servo is actually serviceable on the Mugen. BTW ever look at 1/8th scale buggy's?? Almost every one are 80% the same. It sometimes just happens that way. Now The MRX3 design was created by Mugen, but look at the new Serp 950, and you start seeing a MRX3 there also. They all do it, and will continue to copy a design that works, but they try to improve on it.
CTurbo
09-06-2002, 07:24 PM
I would like to see some feedback from owners.
Tstalion79
09-06-2002, 07:43 PM
OK. Here we go
Similarities: Chassis, shocks are IDENTICAL, bulkheads and shocktowers are IDENTICAL, battery box is IDENTICAL, tranny is almost IDENTICAL, arms are almost IDENTICAL.
Differences:
Slightly different radio tray...
YoSystmSucks
09-06-2002, 08:06 PM
First off the shocks are NO WAY identical to the losi, unless you mean they are identical to the MBX buggy shocks then you are correct...
Second the chassis looks very different, if you are trying to say every ST with a flat plate chassis is identical go ahead, the upper deck is different also, so are the mounting holes for everything on the chassis.
brknwheel
09-06-2002, 10:30 PM
Just because the plastic parts are black, and the aluminum chassis is silver does not make the truck the same. I own a losi and I have raced this losi against the mugen truck. I have even seen the trucks close to each other. They are similar, but not the same. By the way, I got spanked by that mugen in the race.
Gmanlusk2004
09-06-2002, 11:46 PM
dude! screw the trucks... get an 8th scale buggy!! So much more hardcore! O well. I would prefer the Mugen over the Losi... Mugen is some high quality $#!t
Later,
Garrett
LouisB
09-09-2002, 12:44 PM
Someone had a new Mugen truck at the club race on thursday, it was about as quick as a losi (not as well set-up) but after a few laps he stacked it and it went cartwheeling along the track, but it wasn't a really bad crash and came off alright. The next lap he had a fairly minor crash and snapped the axle and the rear wheel went off down the track:(
Are Mugens durable???
Gmanlusk2004
09-09-2002, 04:32 PM
Well to get this argument of originality over with.
Who came out with the 2wd race buggy? Associated
Who copied it? Losi
What is the universal design of the 8th scale buggy? Yep, they all look the same.
What about the T-Maxx, Tierra Crusher, Savage, and Monster GT? All look like they have 8 shocks and close resemblance of chassis layout.
What about pan cars?
8th scale 4wd cars?
Hmmmmm......
Makes you think huh?
L8r,
Garrett
NitroOwnsYou
09-09-2002, 09:02 PM
LouisB that sounds alot like driver error, You said he had two incidents and are asking of they are durable??? Mugens are very durable, but the driver has to be also! BTW I own 2 1/8th scale buggy's, and the ST's are alot cheaper to run, maintain, and can run on a smaller track alot better than the 1/8th's do. Also the mugen uses the big bores from the MBX4 XR works buggy, so they arent the same as the slosi's!
rc10gtisthebest
09-10-2002, 02:55 PM
If you actually open your eyes, you'd see that there are a tons of "close" (some closer then others) copies of r/cs out here, as previously metioned.
speedydave
09-10-2002, 10:08 PM
When a company gets the design for a type of vehicle right, they go with it, and other companies replicate that design because it WORKS.
Gmanlusk2004
09-11-2002, 04:44 PM
thanks for helping to prove my point guys.
L8r,
Garrett
diesel757
09-20-2002, 11:03 PM
ATTN: mugen had a problem with the hardening process of the rear cva's in the first batch of kits. I called mugen and they said they had fixed the problem and they would send me new replacement axles. I broke two the first day.
If anyone here has built both the losi and the mugen then you would really see how much different they really are. the may look similar(as everyone has already pointed out) but they really much different. basically it looks like mugen took a kyosho, a gt, and a losi and found all the strong parts of these kits and rolled them all up into one. as far as durability goes goes you just can't touch mugen. anyone with a xr nows this. even reagan leblanc(team kyosho usa) will tell you this. so after a little more track time(and my new axles) I will see for myself how this truck fairs out against my xxxnt.:D
Temjin006
09-29-2002, 05:16 PM
Can i fit a side exhaust with pull starter on the mst?
trakhak
11-05-2002, 07:41 PM
I thought this thread was for Mugen owners? Does anyone actually own this truck? I for one am interested in it, whether or not it looks like someone else's truck. If there are any owners of this truck give us your impression of the truck. Enough with the copy this and clone that....sheesh!
atm92484_3
11-05-2002, 09:04 PM
Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
Well to get this argument of originality over with.
Kyosho made the 1/8 buggy, T-Maxx was the original independent suspension 4wd monster truck, pan cars were Tamiya (waaay back in the day). There are only so many ways to make certain designs. Judging by whats on the market, its obvious which designs work.
NitroOwnsYou
11-05-2002, 09:36 PM
Wasnt the nitro Quake the first independent suspention MT??
Jr
invsible
11-06-2002, 12:41 AM
i have one of these trucks and i like i like it alot better then the gt i had........
trakhak
11-06-2002, 08:57 PM
OK OK Mr Invisible, let us know WHY you like it better than the gt! Give us some driving impressions,details of construction. ELABORATE!!!!
invsible
11-06-2002, 10:29 PM
how big do you want me to go? lets see vers gt ........way better lay out handels better way way better shocks way better plastic super stable ...........oh and also you cant beat mugen quality its top notch the truck is so good after one race 2 people who just watched me drive the truck said they were getting one
Buggy.21
11-07-2002, 09:31 AM
Hey trakhak, I got my MST-1 a month ago just finishing putting it together and running it. I must say that it goes together just a well as the other race trucks, GT & Losi, it my look like a XXX-NT but when you start putting it together you see the differences more then just the shocks, I've had all three, still have my GT. Now as for performace i definately like it more then the Losi, IMO the Losi was a little harder for me to get it dailed in and was a little more fragile then the GT that's due to the stiff material Losi arms are made of. It is more stable in rougher sections of a track steers just as well as the GT and Losi, really very smooth and predictable. The MST-1 arms are made looks to me out of the same material the GT's are not exactly sure on that but I haven't broken one (or anything) yet great quality. The truck handles flawlessly the shock are head-over-heals over everything out really soaks up bumps like the are not even there even better then piggybacks, got to drill the pistons out to .56 and still use the 20wt shock oil and you'll be set, I'm using the stock setup. The MT12 speaks for itself with the REX pipe & newly designed manifold it is smooth and responsive with excellant power throughout good combo, if you get one you wont be dissappointed. BTW one last thing if you see any extra rear Mugen wheels pick some up since they are the only ones you can run with the hex adapter the truck has for right now just in case you want to mount another set of rear tires. I'm sure Proline will have some rear wheels out soon as well.
trakhak
11-07-2002, 05:28 PM
Buggy man, Thank you very much! I heard somewhere else that a dude was using some pro-line rims for the GT and that worked fine. now I dont have one yet so dont hammer me on it but I think he said delete the hex mount and it slips right on? Does that sound feasible?
Would you say the trk is a stable and forgiving trk, meaning would a average racer think it is easy to drive or is it a "edgy" car and require alot if driver input like a Schumacher? thanks for the unbiased input!! Peace
invsible
11-07-2002, 07:55 PM
hey get rid of the mugen wheels and run losi or ae wheels on the rear and i run losi wheels on the front and as far as easy to drive i think its very easy.........anyone should be able to put this truck together and drive it fairly good.....if you can drive at all:p
Buggy.21
11-14-2002, 02:11 PM
Trakhak, to piggyback offf of invsible post, yes you can remove the hex adaptor and run losi rims is what i used i tried gt rims and the offset of the rim causes the rear wheels to stick out to far to be roar legal so if you use the losi rims the offset is perfect and you don't have to worry about finding special rims to mount tires. Yes it is a very user friendly truck to drive, probably one of the easiest ones to drive right out of the box, just drill your pistons out with a .56 drill bit and your ready to rock. My MT12 is starting to come to life now, so you know I'm having fun now I haven't driven my Kanai 2 since Sept. that's how much fun I'm having with the MST-1 :p
Tstalion79
11-14-2002, 02:16 PM
Does the body look good with the MST1?
FlyinRazorback
11-14-2002, 06:44 PM
I currently have a GT, but I'm looking real hard at the MST. I plan on either getting a Drake or the MST. So, what I'm asking from you guys that own the Mugen is to tell me why I should or should not get the MST. Also, how does it compare with the NT and GT. Looks like a good racer. Also, since my LHS doesn't really carry Losi or Mugen parts, I will have to order parts online. Where is the best place to order Mugen parts?
Thanks in advance
invsible
11-14-2002, 11:12 PM
for parts nitro house has a good bit also national r/c does to but if your lhs does not or cant get the parts just go big like me and buy 2 kits one to build and one for parts.........as far as the mst vs. everything else, its a mugen product enough said.........hey im getting an 1/8 scale so the mst-1 is for sale check out the classifieds if any one is looking.......
[-Ecko-]xxx-nt
12-31-2002, 03:01 PM
Do you ever think the price will go down? I was planning on getting one but I saw the price on that thing...not even on ebay can you get it for cheap price.:eek: Or does anyone know any sales going on that includes this truck. Thnx.:cool:
speedydave
12-31-2002, 03:17 PM
Ultimate Hobbies has the MST-1 WITH ENGINE for $360.
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p480.html
Temjin006
01-01-2003, 06:32 PM
Just got my truck today. When i open the box, the rex pipe was losing. I have no idea what to do now. Can anyone tell me where i can get that rex pipe for a cheaper price.
speedydave
01-01-2003, 08:16 PM
You got the kit with the engine, right? As far as I know, the pipe isn't included in the kit w/o engine. If you got the kit with engine, call up Mugen. They should send you one for free.
JFawwaz
01-19-2003, 09:22 PM
im planning on getting the mst-1 with the engine this week from ultimate hobbies. Anyone else want to give me some tips on bulding it before i get it? Also, would it be alright to use some standard servos adn radio gear until i get my mx-3 with and hi torque servo? and one more question, how much would a starter box be?
thanks
JFawwaz
01-19-2003, 09:47 PM
Originally posted by Buggy.21
got to drill the pistons out to .56
what does this mean?
RCfun
01-19-2003, 11:35 PM
He's saying that he is going to enlarge the holes on the piston in the shock. This will make the shock compress and rebound quicker because the oil has a slightly larger hole to pass through.
JFawwaz
01-19-2003, 11:38 PM
oh, and what size drill bit should i use to do this?
RCfun
01-19-2003, 11:50 PM
Lol, I guess a .56 drill bit, I'm not very good with numbers on drill bit's. This is something you do not need to do, he probably runs on a loose/and or bumpy track. If you are going to race on a bumpy track, then generally this would be a good thing to do.
NitroOwnsYou
01-19-2003, 11:54 PM
The truck does have alot of pack. For anything other than a road course, drill them out. Its really too much for the light truck. I think it includes 15w oil, but its still too stiff. Check your hobby shop for the #56 drill bit. Some carry them, some dont. I dont know the conversion of it to inches. :(
JR
JFawwaz
01-20-2003, 12:08 AM
Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
The truck does have alot of pack. For anything other than a road course, drill them out. Its really too much for the light truck. I think it includes 15w oil, but its still too stiff. Check your hobby shop for the #56 drill bit. Some carry them, some dont. I dont know the conversion of it to inches. :(
JR
do you think the pistons from the buggy's shocks will work with the mst's shocks?
Teammugen
01-20-2003, 05:28 PM
The shocks on the truck are the same as the standard MBX shocks. All you need to do is drill the piston holes out to 1.4mm and add 15wt oil in the front and 20wt in the back, that will give you an awesome starting point. Or you can drill the rear pistons out to 1.6mm and add 30 wt oil. Also try to keep the rear arms a little bit above level in the back when you set the preload.
JFawwaz
01-20-2003, 08:59 PM
thanks for the help
racerrandy
01-23-2003, 09:40 PM
My mst-1 should be in at the lhs on friday, any tips on building the kit other than shock tips already posted?
I am pretty pumped up about the mst-1 it will be the first new kit I have built, I have always picked up used stuff since I got into rc. It will be cool building instead of rebuilding.
Teammugen
01-23-2003, 10:30 PM
-When you build the diff, tighten down the diff screw all the way and then back it out 1/8 of a turn.
-And when you put the gears in the tranny make sure that you lube the gears with the snotty colored grease.
-Another tip would be to look and the bottom of the rear hub and where the flashing is, drill a hole and tap it for a 3mm set screw. This will lock the hub to the suspension pin, it keeps the pin from turning in the hub and elongating the hole. You can also put a dab of CA glue on the tip of the set screw to give it a better hold on the pin.
-Drill out the two holes in the shock pistons with a 1.4mm drill bit or equivilant size bit. Then fill the front shocks with 15wt oil and rear shocks with 20wt oil.
-If you have any questions on the MST-1, e-mail me at Teammugen@aol.com
rc4me2
02-04-2003, 08:34 PM
owners, please comment about this car
pros / cons, what you like, what you don't like
how does it hold up, how does it handle, etc...?
thanks
Teammugen
02-04-2003, 08:56 PM
This truck has the best of the gt ( diff) and the best of the losi ( suspension). Although the truck may appear to look very similar to the NT is really isn't. It has rear toe blocks for the arms and three rear hubs to give you many tuning options. The shocks are just awesome to say the least, this thing goes through the rough like no other. The only down side to the truck is that it has had rear axle problems, but mugen has finally figured that out. They will replace any broken axle for free if it is sent back to them. I can a test to this truck being a winner, many of the local pros at my track want to get into this truck just after seeing it run only a couple of weekends.
teammugen@aol.com
rc4me2
02-05-2003, 07:21 AM
how durable are the molded components?
and in regards to the rear axle problem...have their recently-shipped kits been fixed to include stronger axles?
and how "available" and how expensive are parts for this truck?
thanks
Teammugen
02-06-2003, 10:08 PM
I have had the truck for over a month now and have about 3/4 of a gallon thru the thing. I have yet to break a molded part, the only thing broken besides axles was a bent tie-rod. The truck has held up great compared to the drake that I used to run. I have been running the 3rd generation axle and it is holding up pretty good. I haven't broken one in about 15 tanks now. Mugen is still working on even another version now. The kits are still coming with the original axles as far as I know, although you can send them back to mugen and they will give you the newest version.
rc4me2
02-07-2003, 07:22 AM
according to one article, the mt12-equipped version also includes a nova pipe to go along...
but i've heard others argue this...
plain and simple, does it include the pipe or not?
thanks all
Teammugen
02-07-2003, 04:22 PM
The MT-12 equiped version does include a Rex novarossi pipe.
rc4me2
02-08-2003, 12:23 AM
thanks
...
will a normal re header put the pipe too far out, or is the new boxy one the same dimensions?
'preciate the responses
Teammugen
02-08-2003, 04:14 PM
A normal touring car header would still out to far and rub the body, but you can use the trinity, drake or mugen version manifolds. The kit with the engine also includes the pipe and manifold.
rc4me2
02-08-2003, 08:20 PM
thanks for the reply
...the idea came from just a common thought of exhaust pressure / flow
w/ the mst header, it looks as if the exhaust would flow, hit the wall, then be directed down the rest of the header and to the pipe....whereas a normal re header has a design that allows the gases to flow smoother...
with this shape being that close to the port outlet on the engine, i cant help but believe that shape would alter the exhaust pulses....whether or not you'd notice a difference is probably the real question
Teammugen
02-08-2003, 09:58 PM
The maniflod isthan Mugen supplies is more than you would ever need. I am running the Mugen manifold with the Rex pipe that is included in the kit, although I have seen guys run the Losi drake pipe. The drake pipe may give you a smoother power band. What I did was install an OS slide carb on the MT-12, I would suggest a rotary carb, but I was to lazy to change the linkage and the servo position. I would also get some restrictors for the carb if you could. I had some milled down for the slide carb. Another option would be to run an OS cv with a different head and the rotary carb, but that depends on the track you are running at. For my conditions the track here just isn't big enough to use the power that the MT-12 puts out.
Twist 2 Go
02-16-2003, 09:56 AM
Hey all, I am thinking about getting a MST-1 kit w/ the MT12 engine. How do I tell if the kit has the upgraded axles and is factory support with things such as setups, etc easily avaulable? I ck'd out the Mugen website and it's pretty lame. Thanks in advance for any info. Rick
ryankid
03-01-2003, 04:31 PM
Im also looking at buying this truck, i was going to buy a XXXnt drake but was told htis truck will own it on the track. So if anyone can answer the other guys questions and give us any info that would be awesome thanks.
Teammugen
03-02-2003, 10:03 PM
I don't think that any of the new truck kits are coming withe the new axles yet. And as far as set-ups, the kit has a basic set-up sheet with it. A great place to find set-ups and info on the Mugen mst-1 truck is www.kazzamoto.com.
Kazzamoto
03-03-2003, 06:14 AM
The MST-1 is the best driving truck right now. I can't believe it! I can't wait for silver State! And the all new X5 will be there to run for the first time !!!! The track is racd and the jumps are PHAT! Click here for the Silver State MST-1 set-up!!! (http://Kazzamoto.com)
http://7d1.homestead.com/files/logos/Mugen_Seiki.gif
PAPA MOOSE
03-03-2003, 11:52 AM
idler gear, rear hubs, axles even the new one's or at least the one's mugen sent me, the first set I set another set in no response!
those parts are GARBAGE the rest of the truck is DIALED the molded stuff will not break!
Some one please fix these problems!
Tony told me rustler cvd's a direct fit?:confused:
Twist 2 Go
03-03-2003, 01:16 PM
Got my truck assembled today. Still have to make final adjustments, fire it up, and paint the body. I went ahead and picked up a set of spare axles when I got the kit.
My question is for the frt ride height, in order to get the arms level, do I need to cut a coil or so from the frt spring? The ride height seems pretty high. Thanks, Rick
Kazzamoto
03-03-2003, 06:06 PM
Pappa Moose: What Idler problem. There is no idler gear problem. The only problem is that people are not setting thier car right. Tighten the diff and back it off 1/8th turn. The slipper should be tightened and backed off 2 turns. (this allows a good starting point) make sure your slipper slips before the diff does. It's as simple as that!
Twist 2 : Make sure all you do is take out a couple of tention clips on the shock. Check out some of the set-ups on my site. I ran the Hemet race with my MST-1 for it's first national. And I never observed a single axle breakage!!! Good luck and let me remind everyone that this is the first year of a brand new truck. It was in the A-Main and is a great truck. I'm not saying this just because I get assistance, I say it because I have drive a GT (which is a great truck) and A Kyosho, and a LOSI. ( I spent a lot of $$$ in replacement parts) I personally feel that this truck will be going places! Enjoy!
http://7d1.homestead.com/files/logos/Mugen_Seiki.gif
Twist 2 Go
03-03-2003, 07:08 PM
Hey Kazz, thanks. I am using the blue-groove setup on your site except I switched the shock pistons and oils out to 1.5mm pistons and 200/250 wt oil frt/rear. I have 2 10mm shims in the rear and the arms are slightly above level and no shims in the frt shocks and the arms are nowhere close to level. That's why I was asking if I need to trim the springs. The chassis is about 3/8" higher in the frt when viewed from the side. Thanks, Rick
Kazzamoto
03-03-2003, 09:05 PM
Twist- WOW... Thats a lil bit odd. Maybe there is a lot of air in your shocks?!?.... I don't know...
http://7d1.homestead.com/files/logos/Mugen_Seiki.gif
PAPA MOOSE
03-04-2003, 11:49 AM
KAZZ I am not bashing the truck, the truck is dailed in fact I just won our local point series with it I have not had the problem with the idler gear but I have see others! You probably know who I am talking about I am from Utah Tony is the one who is having the problems! I can't say I havent had a problem with the idler gear when I change them before each race they look pretty worn for an hour of run time! I can hear my slipper slipping and I can hear his also, diff is adjusted properly maybe there is something else wrong! but with out any support including mugen it gets expensive replacing parts! maybe wee have to much traction but slipper is slipping and idlers and axles a "braking". Tony has been racing for many years and I only a few but I am smart enough to setup the other eight cars I own and put them out front, I think i have a handle on this one!
Once again the rest of the truck is "bulletproof" never seen anything tummble like this and not break! i probably sound like a basher but when my suff breaks is something stupid like landing the triple for the 100th time perfect and it breaks an axle! even the ones mugen sent the firsts time!
Just feel bad for my brotha Tony who is faster than me can't keep a car in the main three races and more than three breaks!
I am with ya Kazz in the near future you might be hearing our saying around here "TOTAL MUGANATION" as you pass people it really pisses them off!
Later
Kazzamoto
03-04-2003, 03:40 PM
LOL ya... It will be nice...
Kazzamoto
03-04-2003, 03:56 PM
http://www.mugenseiki.com/mst-1-03w.jpg
Twist 2 Go
03-04-2003, 04:28 PM
Got my spring problem figured out. Kit came w/ an extra set of rear springs. The short springs for the frt were in the box in a seperate bag. I'll put them on and that should take care of it.
Kazzamoto
03-04-2003, 05:57 PM
You had me puzzled for a while twist...
yachtjim
03-05-2003, 10:03 AM
Hi guys, I have one of these trucks being shipped to me right now. I am going to put an OS .12Tr in it. What kind of header/pipe do you think I should get. There are clearance issues with the body right?
Also, where is a good oline place to order parts from. Tires, parts, which cvd's will fit it, etc.
Thanks.
Jim
Twist 2 Go
03-05-2003, 01:26 PM
I would get the Mugen header. It fits real tight to the engine & chassis. I still have some work to do to finish mine ( break-in and body) and our local track opens for it's 1st race of the season on Sunday. Hopefully I can find the time as I have a newborn in the house as of last week.
Any of the on-line hobby shops should be a good place to order stuff from but National RC has a lot of Mugen stuff and you can also order direct from Mugen.
Here are 2 of the best Mugen links that I have found. There will be alot of reading necessary on the Mugen conference link below but well worth it. Scroll down to the MST-1 setup post that has roughly 600 posts. Kazz's site has setups posted. Later, Rick
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk/vanilla/browse?conf=mugen2
www.kazzamoto.com
Kazzamoto
03-05-2003, 04:10 PM
you can also buy at Mugen Seiki Direct (http://www.mugenracing.com)
RCMark
03-09-2003, 06:57 AM
Trying to decide between this truck and an 1/8th scale buggy.
Truck would be nice so I could run on the smaller indoor tracks near me but I'm concerned about durability.
What is the cost of parts?
Which parts are the most likely to break (saw the axle posts)?
How many additional parts would i need for tuning purposes?
Would you recommend the kit w/engine?
Thanks.
Twist 2 Go
03-09-2003, 07:11 AM
I have never had an 1/8 scale buggy but from what I researched before I bought my MST-1, 1/8 scale is more expensive to purchase and maintain(tires,spare parts,etc.) I bought the kit w/ the MT12 and am very happy with it. I wouldn't be too concerned about the axles,yeah alot of people had problems with them but the current kits come with the updated axles and if you do break them, Mugen will send you new ones. Can't beat that in my book. The only thing I changed on my kit were the turnbuckles (switched to titanium) and the color of the fuel hose. Sorry for the long post, but hope this helps. Later, Rick
Kazzamoto
03-09-2003, 07:34 AM
I too also changed the fuel line and most of the turnbuckles. I still have two of the stock ones on. LOL They are pretty dialed!!!! Even comes with good tires. There hop up parts to totally tune up your ride sould be here right around the Silver State race. [list=1]
Springs
Alu. Hub Carriers
A couple of others...
[/list=1] Also, Mugen Seiki will have a new fuel line thats totally trick. It's a grey colored. I think it will match the shocks and stuff. I would suggest i get the MTX-3 motor mount. Looks totally kewl!!!
:D
Twist 2 Go
03-09-2003, 07:41 AM
Where can we see a pic of this motor mount Kazz? Thanks, Rick
Kazzamoto
03-09-2003, 07:55 AM
Here ya go!
http://www.mugenseiki.com/t0717.jpg
I have them on my ride and it looks totally kewl and light wieght also!
:p
Twist 2 Go
03-09-2003, 08:28 AM
Cool, what's the part #? Also what ball end cups are ya'all using? I tried the rpm short cups that Lunsford says to use with their turnbuckles and they seem to bind on the Mugen ball studs? The factory rod ends seem to pop on and off too easily for my liking. Thanks, Rick
Kazzamoto
03-09-2003, 08:40 AM
Part # TO717
I use the non-super duty old school lun turnbuckles with the stock mugen seiki ball cups. I have had them on since october of last year and only had one pop off. However, on any truck I would reccomend replacing them before big races.
http://7d1.homestead.com/files/Kazzamoto_Orange.gif
RCMark
03-13-2003, 05:32 AM
Just got the kit with the MT12 engine and I have a couple of questions:
1. What mods should I make during assembly and what things should I watch out for?
2. What spares should I have on hand for racing?
Thanks.
Kazzamoto
03-13-2003, 06:11 AM
This is what I would bring:
[list=1]
Hub carriers
ball cups
Front chassis plate # L0101
[/list=1]
Thats all I would bring for a lil local race. But I always make sure that I bring all of my parts... Just in case! I stock up for nationals. I would replace parts before the nationals even if they are not broke. This would go for any truck that I drove. Make sure that your diff is like butter. ( nice and smooth ) You should have no problems. I never had an axle issue. I would drive silly and break a hub carrier. Hope this helps....
http://www.mugenracing.com/whatsnew/Pics/MST1-Truck2.gif
rc4me2
03-17-2003, 12:59 PM
what are the most commonly broken parts on this truck?
are there any areas that either material or design makes the truck a step below a xxxnt or the such?
i've heard a lot about broken axles (for no reason) and clutch-related problems (bearings maybe?)...
has mugen addressed and fixed all of these problems, or are they still prevelant in the kits one could go out and buy today?
if these problems still regularly exist...does anyone know who might make aftermarket solutions for these specific parts (MIP...CVDs for the mst-1?)....or anything like that?
thanks
Kazzamoto
03-17-2003, 04:07 PM
The only real problem MST-1 had was the axles. Since then there have not been any real problems. This is the first I've heard of the clutch. There are going to be more and more MST-1 trucks in the A-Mains.... Like I said prior. At the "DIRT" race, I did not see or hear of an axle breakage. Everything else is fine. Mugen is getting ready to release Al hub carriers and spring options. A lot of manuf. are scratching thier head to figure out what to make aftermarket. But you can't re-invent the wheel. All of the parts are trick including the SHOCKS!!! I might add that there will be a new chassis for the truck that will lower the whole truck!!!
Twist 2 Go
03-17-2003, 04:34 PM
I think the axle concerns have been solved. I broke a rear control arm on my truck with a bad landing. (nose straight up and at an angle. Axle survived ok but rear arm broke at the inner hinge pinholes). Is there a release date on those parts, Kazz?
Kazzamoto
03-17-2003, 06:17 PM
No confermed date as of yet. But most likley before silver state...
rc4me2
03-17-2003, 06:26 PM
if they borrowed the shocks from their 1/8 buggy, why must there be a whole new set of springs made for this one...can't you just use the buggy springs? (though even the "soft" might be too stiff for the truck)
thanks
Kazzamoto
03-17-2003, 10:29 PM
Robbie Collins was using the Yellow springs from the MBX4 RR
rc4me2
03-18-2003, 10:43 AM
are there cvd's to fit the mst1 yet?
or will existing ones work?
thanks
Kazzamoto
03-18-2003, 02:32 PM
MIP does not make them yet. However, I still use the stock ones without a problem...
RCMark
03-20-2003, 10:18 AM
Building my kit over the next few days.
Does Lunsford make a turnbuckle set for the MST-1 or do I need to piece one together?
What about using Losi wheels? How do I do this?
Should I get a flat or hump receiver pack?
Can someone recommend a started box that works well with the MST-1 / MT12 combo?
Thanks.
Kazzamoto
03-20-2003, 03:01 PM
Piece the turnbuckles together...
Use a hump pack. And I think that some people are using losi wheels with the modified MIP CVD's and apply it normally.
Twist 2 Go
03-20-2003, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by RCMark
Building my kit over the next few days.
Does Lunsford make a turnbuckle set for the MST-1 or do I need to piece one together?
What about using Losi wheels? How do I do this?
Should I get a flat or hump receiver pack?
Can someone recommend a started box that works well with the MST-1 / MT12 combo?
Thanks.
I used 2-1/2" and 2/3/8" turnbuckles for my truck. There is no kit that I am aware of.
Frt works fine with no changes. For the rear, you will need to remove the hex from the axle.
I used a brick pack from OFNA. Part # 10199 I put a little foam around it when I installed it in the battery box and the fit is excellent
I used my Associated starter box w/ no problems.
RCMark
03-21-2003, 04:07 AM
I have a steering servo with 85 oz/in torque - will that be strong enough for use in this truck?
Twist 2 Go
03-21-2003, 05:40 AM
Originally posted by RCMark
I have a steering servo with 85 oz/in torque - will that be strong enough for use in this truck?
I would think so.
Kazzamoto
03-21-2003, 06:00 AM
I normally use a servo that has 100 oz or better for the front and 85 for the throttle. Sedans you can get away with it. but this is dirt baby...
RCMark
04-11-2003, 08:52 PM
Broke my first axle tonight - only the third tank of fuel since break-in completed. Wish Mugen would fix this problem.
What a great engine the MT12 is though. I still ahve some work to do dialing in enough rear traction to handle the power.
Twist 2 Go
04-11-2003, 10:15 PM
I can feel your pain about the axles. I broke 2 last weekend. Mine were supposedly the "improved" axles, at that! Still, I was very impressed with the truck. Finished 3rd in the A-main on it's first race (and my 1st off-road race in about 10yrs!) Truck has awesome power and handles very well. What setup are you using? Later, Rick
RCMark
04-12-2003, 07:29 AM
I am using the Chad Bradley set-up from Kazz's website as a starting point. The track I went to for testing was a small indoor track and VERY slick so it was a real challenge for my first time out witha Nitro truck. We're building an offroad track this weekend at my LHS and once it's complete I'll focus on dialing in my set-up for those conditions. Any set-up info or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Glad to hear you liked the truck and did well - congrats !
Twist 2 Go
04-12-2003, 08:28 AM
Cool. Good luck with the track. I am running the same setup. I made a couple of changes to adapt to my local track. Huge outdoor track that is hard-packed, rutted, and has alot of loose sand on the surface if you get even slightly out of the groove. I had to make a lot of adjustments to my driving style as you can't drive a nitro truck like the electrics I was used to racing. LOL.
CaseyDDR
04-13-2003, 12:00 PM
Well I jus got 2 new mugen kits for 290$ off ebay, both complete. I think I got my hands full for my nitro car :) but thats the fun in this right? the challenge of figuring something out. What pipe should I get though? Is there anything I should know about before i tackle this project?
Twist 2 Go
04-13-2003, 12:44 PM
Awesome kits! Try the Chad Bradley setup at www.kazzamoto.com. Also, drill and put setscrews in the rear hubs. Also, be sure and use the 1 degree hubs and the 4 degree rear block. The REX pipe that comes with the kit version is very good as is the AD losi pipe. What engine are you using?
CaseyDDR
04-13-2003, 02:56 PM
Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Awesome kits! Try the Chad Bradley setup at www.kazzamoto.com. Also, drill and put setscrews in the rear hubs. Also, be sure and use the 1 degree hubs and the 4 degree rear block. The REX pipe that comes with the kit version is very good as is the AD losi pipe. What engine are you using?
I'm not sure what engine to use, If i decide to keep and run both kits, ill probably buy 2 Fantom .12's for 99$ each since I'll be more on a budget.. If I decide to sell 1 then I will get the nova rossi engine. Not to sure what I want to do at the moment :)
schnitzer
04-19-2003, 01:43 AM
Just got my MST few days back and finally finished fixing it yesterday night.....
The problem is I broke the fiber disk brake when I was testing the throttle linkage...so I went ahead this afternoon to break in the engine.....i started to lean it out with short 2 sec burst after the second tank of idling.....the problem was at the third tank...the engine was great ( I had one previously in an MTX ) but the problem was the diff. gear...and when I opened the gear box (with lotsa dismantling), the gear was totally burnt out and in fact all the metal balls were stuck in the plastic and the center part of the gear was ripped off....
Anyone knows why? I followed the instruction of kazzamoto in tightening the diff gear or am i just unlucky?
Thanks
schnitzer
04-23-2003, 08:45 PM
MST owners seems quiet recently...
Come on.....show off your truck!!!! and mods you have done to make it faster....
Cheers:D
Twist 2 Go
04-23-2003, 10:33 PM
My truck is box-stock and today, I ordered the new hop-ups from Mugen just released and the carbon-fiber radio tray from Ratzas. Can't wait to get the stuff. I'll post a pic of my truck when I get it re-assembled.
schnitzer
04-25-2003, 03:43 PM
hey MST owners,
I had sent the damage parts to mugen and based on your experiences, will they replace the parts for me?
Cheers
Anyone know where I can find a good deal on this kit without the engine?
Thanks
Twist 2 Go
04-27-2003, 06:48 AM
Here is the url for my LHS. They did have them at a very good price.
http://www.debbiesrcworld.com/index.htm
slapper
04-28-2003, 11:34 PM
I have a used one that has only been ran 5 times that i'm looking to sell!!! It is in very good shape and excellent working order!!! Basically box stock with the exception of the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. Has the original tires from the kit plus a pair of Losi Ifmar Pins and a pair of Holeshots glued on front rims, all tires have firm inserts except the front edge tires!!! All tires have excellent tread left!!! Body is still in excellent shape and has a custom paint job, scheme is black body with orange drips and orange outlines around the windows!!! Looking for $250 and i'll pay for shipping as long as your in the U.S. If intrested, e-mail me at cloud0002000@msn.com
RCMark
05-02-2003, 04:10 AM
Anyone know who's stocking the new hop-up parts? I can't seem to find a listing of what parts are available on Mugen's website.
Twist 2 Go
05-02-2003, 05:52 AM
nitrohouse.com You can't buy direct from mugen unless you're a hobby shop. Here's what was just relesed. All high quality stuff, I might add. Use the grey springs in frt and white rears. Hope this helps. Later, Rick
L0508 FRONT SPRING GRAY $10.99
L0509 REAR SPRING GRAY $10.99
L0610 (L0510) REAR SPRING WHITE $10.99
L0122 FRONT LOWER ARM MOUNT $23.99
L0121 WHEEL HUB $11.99
L0118 REAR UPRIGHT (1) DEGREE $39.99
L0119 REAR UPRIGHT (2) DEGREE $39.99
L0120 REAR UPRIGHT (3) DEGREE $39.99
schnitzer
05-06-2003, 04:01 PM
nitrohouse.com seems to have the option parts for MST under construction. Where can i get option parts for MST other than nitrohouse?
Cheers:D
Twist 2 Go
05-06-2003, 07:24 PM
Give them a call. They have the stuff in stock.. Awesome stuff, I got mine last week and it's first rate stuff. Also, ck out the new carbon fiber radio tray at www.ratzas.net.
Temjin006
05-12-2003, 08:27 PM
L0508 FRONT SPRING GRAY $10.99
L0509 REAR SPRING GRAY $10.99
L0610 (L0510) REAR SPRING WHITE $10.99
What are the difference with the gray spring and the stock chrome?
Does the Losi Ti turnbuckle fit the MST?
I am having those spin out problem with my car. When i accelerate and turn in the dirt, the car spins out. Did i fastened too much?
Does any1 know when the gear diff will be out?
Temjin006
05-18-2003, 07:52 PM
Hey
Can you guys tell me the Lunsford turnbuckles I need to replace all the stock steel ones. And also will the RPM super duty rod end work with the mugen's ball ends? I just break the rear shock tower today. So far i havent break any of my axles.
Twist 2 Go
05-18-2003, 08:08 PM
No the RPM cups do not fit the Mugen ball studs. As for tie rods, I matched my stock ones up with ones my LHS had before I built the truck. I think all 6 are the same size at 2-7/16". I think that is the corect length. As for the axle breakage, I've only broken axles when using Losi wheels on mine.
Temjin006
05-19-2003, 01:30 PM
So does that mean i can use 2-1/2" Lunsford punisher turnbuckles. But I already have my stock turnbuckle in the ball cups, can I still reuse them because i am worrying that the turnbuckles will pop out of the ball cup.
Twist 2 Go
05-19-2003, 05:56 PM
2-1/2" may be too long to adjust the camber correctly. Yes, you can remove the turnbuckle from the rod ends and reuse them. Unless the rod ends are worn out. Measure the length of the turnbuckle and see what it actually measures.
Kazzamoto
05-20-2003, 08:07 AM
I haven't broken any axles in the last 6 months... I'm really happy with mine!
Temjin006
05-20-2003, 02:14 PM
Hey Twist 2 Go
That means i ll need 2-2/3" turnbuckles rite? I read one of your old post and you said that you use 2-1/2" and 2-3/8" ones. Can you tell me what length is need for all the place that i need to replace (steering, camber, toe).
Hi guys,
Im looking for a new truck after racing my GT for just over a year now, and I really fancy a Mugen. Could someone please tell me what type of crank the truck uses? And are there any weak spots on it than Mugen havent sorted out on the latest kits?
Thanks.
Kazzamoto
05-21-2003, 10:51 AM
Right now, Mugen Seiki has fixed all of the weak spots. At first it was an axle problem. I have not broken an axle in about 6 months. And I have about 4 nationals on 6 gallons of sidewinder through it! The truck WORKS!!!. Now with the new list of hop-up parts availible, you should have no trouble at all. When you get the truck, I might suggest getting the 1* rear al. hub carriers. Check out a pic of the hop-up parts on my site- Kazzamoto (http://www.kazzamoto.com)
pumpkinfish
05-22-2003, 01:41 PM
I am currently building my MST-1. What are are the "must have" hop-ups that I should do as I build it and how do I know if I have the updated axels? Is there a way to identify when my truck was manufactured?
Kazzamoto
05-22-2003, 02:53 PM
The "New Style Axles are with black universal ends and a silver axle. And as fas as the must have parts, I would just get the 1* (deg) Hub Carrier. Al. of coarse!!! Also Ratzas has a killr carbon fiber top plate!
Twist 2 Go
05-22-2003, 05:26 PM
Originally posted by pumpkinfish
I am currently building my MST-1. What are are the "must have" hop-ups that I should do as I build it and how do I know if I have the updated axels? Is there a way to identify when my truck was manufactured?
Robbie at Mugen says that if the axles don't break in the first 5 minutes of racing the truck, you have to updated axles. Ck out Kazz's site for the Mugen update parts. The quality is 1st rate stuff.
What type of crankshaft does the MST1 use? Short, Standard or SG?
Twist 2 Go
05-22-2003, 05:48 PM
standard
pumpkinfish
05-22-2003, 10:08 PM
Figures...I have a black axels. Will using red loktite help or just use the blue?
pumpkinfish
05-22-2003, 10:08 PM
Figures...I have a black axels. Will using red loktite help or just use the blue?
****sorry double post...mouse fart****
Kazzamoto
05-22-2003, 11:01 PM
Do not use red locktight!
That is unless you don't wanna take out that screw again. Use BLUE.
Nitroooo
05-23-2003, 10:37 PM
Being that there are no turnbuckle kits from Lunsford, can I buy 2 packs of the 2 1/2 and 1 pack of 2 3/8? If I use the 2 3/8 on the camber links and the 2 1/2 on the other 4 will this work. Also does anybody know the part number from Mugen for the ball cups. Only the stock one's fit right? Also what is the part number for the aluminum 1* hub? Does Mugen site carry them??Thanks All
schnitzer
05-25-2003, 07:32 PM
Hi all,
I needed advice on the diff setup coz my diff is burned...again!!!!
I release 1/8 turn after tightening and for the slipper, I unwind two turn after tightened (according to kazzamoto) The terrain is grass patch with no much traction. Could the terrain be the culprit? If so, how should set up the diff and slipper for low traction area. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Cheers:)
Temjin006
05-26-2003, 11:13 AM
Hey
Does the Proline Crowd Pleaser for the XXX-NT fit the MST with new body mounting holes? I don't want to order from on-line because of the XXXNT fits I can just get it off my LHS.
Twist 2 Go
05-26-2003, 11:53 AM
Sorry, body is not the same.
As for the diff, make sure to use the correct grease and plenty of it for the dif and adjust it after the first couple of minutes of run-time. Make sure the slipper "gives" first as outlined in the manual.
Hope this helps. Lata, Rick
Temjin006
05-26-2003, 06:16 PM
Hey
Do you guys know if Mugen is gonna make a gear diff for the MST? I heard it from some forum that they are. Is this true? Oh yea, wut is the difference between 2 degree and 1 degree rear hub on the back. What does the difference do? Any how do you know when the ball diff id fried?
pumpkinfish
05-27-2003, 12:50 AM
Does anyone have a downloadable manual for the MT-12 engine? I didn't receive one and I wanted to make sure my needles are set correctly. Also, what is the best way to break this truck in and what is the ideal break-in temp? I have heard it the MT-12 is hard to break-in, did you guys have any problems?
Kazzamoto
05-27-2003, 04:13 PM
Temjin006 - The gear diff is a possibility, but not ruled out as of yet. They have a concern about the spinning wieght.
schnitzer- That would be a great starting point. I made that clear. Then adjust the diff as necessary just like Twist 2 Go said...
pumpkinfish - Don't know of one yet... Try Rossi site somewhere.
Twist 2 Go
05-27-2003, 06:01 PM
Hey Kazz, do you have Chad's new set-up? I was supposed to get a copy by fax, but never got it. Thanks, Rick
schnitzer
05-27-2003, 08:04 PM
Thanks for the advice.
Cheers;)
Kazzamoto
05-27-2003, 10:46 PM
The last I knew it was 1.6 in the rear with #300 oil / front was 1.55 with #250 oil...?
pumpkinfish
05-28-2003, 06:22 PM
has anyone played around with different bodies? I was wondering what other bodies fit our trucks. Also, can I use Losi XXXN-T wheels or Mugen only?
LouisB
05-29-2003, 03:57 AM
I'm looking for a nitro truck, one of the few classes i don't race, yet, and the Mugen looks like a good choice. There are only 2 Mugens at my club but both are insanely fast and handle great. I would probably get the version with the engine (what a deal) but would like to use my RB C12 as a back up engine. It's side exhaust and has a rotary carb but I was wondering if it would be possible to fit it in the MST1 with the appropriate header:confused: I was thinking of having a spare servo arm set up with rotary linkages for a quick swap, is it possible?
Thanks
Kazzamoto
05-29-2003, 05:45 AM
The RB is not a rear port?
pumpkinfish
05-29-2003, 06:18 AM
http://www.rbproducts.com/images/1700-000104.jpg
It looks like it would fit to me. Are you sure it is a side exhaust?
On another note, I am almost done breaking in the engine (MT12)as I'm on my 7th tank or so. The thing came alive last night and from a stand still I can't keep the front down!!! Anyone have any tips what I can do in race conditions? I have heard this Mugen engine was insane, but wow! I didn't expect this. From my Picco .26 in my Savage yes, but this, this is a nice surprise!
LouisB
05-29-2003, 07:26 AM
Originally posted by Kazzamoto
The RB is not a rear port?
yep, side exhaust, it's a C12 not a X12. It's a nice engine, very efficient and reliable.
Motorman007
06-04-2003, 12:05 PM
yo where can i get the 1.6 bits to drill the piston?
thanx
Dibs
Twist 2 Go
06-04-2003, 07:29 PM
You can use a 1/16" drill bit. It measures .0004" smaller but that won't matter.
Ducati998
06-07-2003, 02:08 AM
I'm thinking about getting the mst-1, but I heard it could only accept Mugen wheel is that correct? Thank!
Kazzamoto
06-07-2003, 07:24 AM
Yes, the rear uses a Hex application. This makes it better for a quicker tire change and less likely to strip out the hub. However, you can take the hex off and use Losi rear wheels with the pin only. I am not sure about the fronts.
:p
Twist 2 Go
06-07-2003, 08:44 AM
The front work too.
Ducati998
06-07-2003, 12:21 PM
Thank for the help! But can I also use proline wheel? Also would just any 2.2 wheel work?
Twist 2 Go
06-07-2003, 12:56 PM
The Proline wheels would have to be for a Losi.Even though they are all 2.2" wheels, the mounting pattern is specific for different manufacturers. And to further complicate matters, sometimes other wheels will bolt up but the offset is different. You have 2 options really. Use the Mugen wheels or use any wheel that will fit a Losi.
spikevyxel
06-10-2003, 05:53 PM
I am getting the MST-1 without a engine, so the engine im thinking of getting is a Sirio .12. i have a few Q's. 1. Is it a good engine. 2. will it fit(i was looking at the chassis and it has premade engine holes). 3. what carb should i get(rotary or slide)
4. what crank style. 5. can you give me the specs on the other kits engine(mt12)
thanks for you help
:) :) :) :)
Nitroooo
06-10-2003, 06:36 PM
Hey all, I'm writing this for a friend of mine that has a mst. He needs a heavyweight steel flywheel for his truck. It has a Novarossi .12 in it. The local hobby shop doesn't stock Mugen parts so he is going to compare to see if something he has matches up. Does anybody know a part number of any info on what I can tell them that will fit. His motor has the slide carb and has so much bottom end it's hard to drive in the tracks where I live......Any help will be appreciated.
pumpkinfish
06-27-2003, 05:52 PM
Hi guys I need a little tip or two. I was finally able to get this beast on the local dirt track here. It handles good, but what is the secret to flying this thing some what level? I am having a hard time! I have my truck setup to Kazz'z setup sheet if that helps. I always seem to land on my lid with the rear going over on me. This truck feels very sensitive...either that or I am just too used to driving my Savage with all that weight ;)
Temjin006
06-30-2003, 12:43 PM
Can anyone tell me how I can make my front suspension softer. The steering on my car is too twitchie and the car over steers alot.
Temjin006
07-01-2003, 09:34 PM
I need a set up for loose dirty condition. Right now with stock stetup, my car oversteer due to lost of traction and too much steering.
Grant Tokumi
07-09-2003, 03:00 PM
I heard from a friend that the Mugen MST-1 was discontinued. Checked Tower Hobbies and their stock status reads "discontinued" also. Is it true?
Twist 2 Go
07-09-2003, 06:39 PM
no
aaronb73
07-21-2003, 02:05 PM
I'm looking to pick up this truck, I read some reviews and I think it fixes problems I have had with my losi drake edition.
This is a fairly new truck right, out just over a year? What's mugen's normal product timeline for new kits? I'd hate to buy this thing and not be able to find parts for it.
I'm looking at the offer over at ultimatehobbies.com for $359 with engine and pipe, can't beat that!
Thanks for your help
speedydave
07-23-2003, 09:52 PM
I just picked one of these up at the track today. Track was having a hard time selling it, it's the truck with engine and pipe, already put together as a display model with a custom painted body. Are the axles that had the snapping problem silver with a black thread, or is the entire axle black? Also, are there any problems other than the axle snapping problem that I need to be aware of? Any tips on anything? One thing I really want/need to know is, what size turnbuckles do I need for this? I want to piece out Lunsfords, since the XXXNT kit didn't have the right sizes. I got the truck w/engine, a gallon of fuel, and a bunch of spares(F/R arms, F/R towers, a couple diff gears, clutch shoes, shock shafts, and some other stuff) for $350. Sound like a good deal? Can't wait to get this thing running, if it handles anything like the Drake I drove I'll be extremely happy. I guess I'm officially a hardcore Mugen guy(MBX4 XR..selling though...MBX5 and MST1 now, and MTX3 in the future). :) Thanks!
stock turnbuckles are 2 7/16" long I just changed mine with the lunsford 2 3/4 and it worked just fine.
RAYMAN1OO7
07-25-2003, 01:59 PM
i cant wait to order one of these! i just have to convince my mom to let me spend that much money, i mean im 17years old, and she wont let me take any money out of the bank, i dont know what to do, she wont listen to me.she always says i have to many cars anyway(T-maxx 2.5, tc3 for carpet, tc3 rally, and a ft t3)if anyone wants to buy the t3 or the rally tc3 let me know(ill sacrifice losing those two just so i can get the mst-1)! just wondering, since the trucks layout is similar to the losi, will lunsford titanium turnbuckles for the losi work? also, will mip cvd's for the losi work? or are the bearings in the rear hubs different, what about the actual length of the dogbone, will that work? and ill just have to find a different axle that fits the bearings?
aaronb73
07-25-2003, 02:54 PM
I'm with you, my mugen truck should be here today for a fun truck building weekend! Can't wait to get it together ...
From what I read mugen has released their own upgraded turnbuckles, haven't found an online shop with them listed yet. If you go the lunsford route I believe you can use either the 2 3/8 or 2 1/2 inch ones. I think all six on the truck are 2 7/8 long??
As far as the mip cvd's I think a few people have used the losi ones but had to dremel the cups down to fit the rear hubs.
Good info found on this active mst-1 thread: http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk
Go under Papaya interface, 2003 Offroad cars, find the mst-1 thread and read up!
RAYMAN1OO7
07-25-2003, 10:02 PM
sorry, delete this
RAYMAN1OO7
07-25-2003, 10:03 PM
just curious, why does towerhobbies.com have the mst-1 listed as discontinued?i have seen tower do this to a few other things such as the hpi/novarossi .12 engine. does it mean they just dont carry it anymore? and what about stormerhobbies? they dont even have the mst-1 on there at all. those are my two fav. places to order stuff.
aaronb73
07-26-2003, 06:22 AM
I was wondering that too, might be they are either no longer going to make a kit with the engine, or I believe there is a new engine to replace the mt12, mr12 right?
I've ordered a few parts from nitrohouse.com, had very good luck with them. They carry this truck w/ engine for $399. Acehardwarehobbies.com has it for $449. I went with ultimatehobbies.com as they had it listed for $359, but got charged over $50 for 2 day ups shipping, ouch! Still it works out to be the cheapest total price...
Tower and stormer seem to have very limited stock of mugen kits and parts listed, mostly relating to buggies. I bet if you call they have more parts and such in stock.
aaronb73
07-29-2003, 12:07 PM
I measured the stock turnbuckles, to replace them the closest match would be the lunsford punisher series, 2 3/8 in. long. It's just a hair shorter than stock, need six total.
www.lunsfordracing.com , look for the bulk pack section, should be less than $30.
speedydave
07-29-2003, 12:15 PM
All 6 are the same length?
aaronb73
07-29-2003, 02:38 PM
According to the instructions they are all the exact same part. I just placed an order for six of them from stormerhobbies, $26.
I had the front and rear tie rods already on, I measured the steering turnbuckles and looked at the manual listing in the back. I will take off one of each tonight and post to verify. I'm about 99.95% percent sure but I will confirm before anyone else decides to order some based on this info.
Dirtwerx
07-29-2003, 04:17 PM
I am very adverse to what ultimate is doing. They have outrageously low prices on many kits, but have their ordering system setup so that the consumer doesn't know what they are being charged for shipping until after the order has been placed.
I ordered from Ultimate once...and once only. I was charged $11 for ground shipment on a servo and two bottles of diff fluid. It quickly turned the best price into not such a good deal. They are overcharging on shipping to make up for the fact they make nothing on the kits themselves. The other great thing is that they won't quote you shipping charges on the phone, give you a tracking number for your shipment or generally help you in any way. Gotta love customer service!
Due to my problems with Ultimate, I have gone back to my old reliable source....Ace Hobbies. JR is very knowledgable and easy to deal with, and they have fair prices on most everything. Sure, they may not offer the lowest price, but you get service after the sale with Ace. I'll pay a few extra bucks for that. I had some problems with parts I ordered for my Hyper 7. JR was MORE than accomidating on hooking me up for the mistake.
speedydave
07-29-2003, 04:18 PM
Alright, thanks. I haven't been able to find anyone who can give a straight answer as to what the lengths of the turnbuckles are. :rolleyes: Awesome! :)
aaronb73
07-29-2003, 08:18 PM
Speedydave: Confirmed, all six stock tierods are 2 7/16 in. in length. LO805 is the stock part number. The lunsford punisher series are 3mm thick at the threads, this matches the stock ones. I went with three of the 2 3/8 in., 2 pack version (lunsford part# 1072). The lunsfords will be 1/16 of an inch shorter, but this shouldn't matter too much as the ball cups are long and threaded pretty far onto the stock tierods.
Also confirmed the rpm ball cups do not work, they are too tight and bind. The stock ball cups should work fine, as the tierod threads are the same diameter.
Dirtwerx : Yeah I hear ya. If I knew they were going to pull this I would have definately paid more to a more respectable business. I called asking about the kit and decided I might order it over the phone. i was quoted a price of $379. I said "It's listed for $359 on your website". The reply i got was that price is internet sales only, phone orders price was $379. I said thank you and proceeded to use their online "store" (unsecured form-based email). Well when the kit shows up i look online at my bank statement and find they charged me the $379 once for the kit, then a seperate charge for the shipping. As far as the statement included in the package they lumped that extra $20 into shipping and handling charges, over $50!
Thank you very much, that's the last business they'll get from me. Nitrohouse, Stormer and Ace hardware have been good to me, I'll stick with them from now on.
speedydave
07-30-2003, 02:49 AM
Thanks for the confirmation, Aaron! I'll be ordering some Lunsfords from Tower when I get some money. :rolleyes: Looks like I'll be ordering my parts from Nitrohouse, and not Ultimate. Wow, what crap.
What engines do you guys run, and what carbs? I'm going to be running the MT12, and I'm hopefully going to be running an OS 10E carb on it. One thing I'm not sure about is how I should be sealing the carb against the adapter. How is the adapter supposed to keep the carb in without locking down on the carb? I've heard you JB Weld the carb to the adapter, but isn't there an easier way? Thanks.
aaronb73
07-30-2003, 08:26 AM
I'm going to use the MT12 with it's stock carb. I haven't seen one of these motors run around here yet so I thought I'd try it stock first, and spent money on chassis upgrades (turnbuckles, ratzas top plate, alum rear hexes, etc).
I'm thinking the jb weld might be more than what's needed for the carb adapter, maybe try some sensor safe permatex first? If you're not using this carb anywhere else I guess it wouldn't hurt...
RAYMAN1OO7
07-30-2003, 10:21 PM
thanks for letting us know that ultimate stinks, that kind of info i greatly appreciated, im sure by everybody. so the question, who carries the mst-1? and if you buy the kit with the engine, does the mt-12 have a sg crank or a threaded one? is it a short shaft if it IS threaded? and if i buy the kit without the engine, will it still come with a flywheel and clutchbell and clutch? or do i have do buy all that stuff seperate as well as the pipe and header
speedydave
07-31-2003, 03:22 AM
I believe it's a threaded, standard shaft engine, and you shouldn't have to buy anything except the pipe, engine, or header(and coupler).
Aaron, I've seen a few MT12's run around here, and I have driven one, but I think all of them(or almost all) have OS carbs, so I'm not sure just how snappy the slide carb is. The only reason I'd think JB Weld was needed would be because the carb adapter is a solid ring(cylinder, actually), so I'm not sure how well the carb stays in the engine with the adapter if when you tighten the cinch nut down, it tightens down on the adapter. What's holding the carb? hehe...food for thought. :)
aaronb73
07-31-2003, 07:47 AM
You should be able to purchase this kit from anyone that uses Horizon Hobby distributers. Some web stores off the top of my head that stock the MST-1: Nitrohouse.com, AceHardwareHobbies.com, Ratzas.Net, Hobbypeople.net, HorizonHobby.com.
It does look like the kit with engine is being sold out and not restocked, and really it's a hell of a deal to get that good of an engine with a good pipe for the price. Maybe someone with the kit only version could clarify what does / doesn't come with. I think I've read you need to at least purchase a manifold and pipe if you get the kit only.
Speedydave : That OS carb you're going to use, is it slide or rotary?
RAYMAN1OO7
07-31-2003, 03:14 PM
thanks for the sites. and yea, it is a good deal, i mean your actually getting the engine, pipe, and manifold for $150 because of the price difference in the kit and kit w/ engine prices, you just cant beat that, and thats top of the line stuff too.
speedydave
08-01-2003, 02:00 AM
Aaron, it's a 10E rotary carb. There'd be no point in going to an OS carb if it were just going to be another slide carb. :)
aaronb73
08-01-2003, 06:29 AM
i suppose, I hear most people use the OS carb for ease of tuning and to mellow out the power of the MT12. I'll have to look into that some more, the OS engines i've had always worked well and were very ease to start and tune.
btw, the lunsfords tie rods came in last night, went on without a hitch!
Dirtwerx
08-01-2003, 09:40 AM
Aside from the turnbuckles, are there any other "must have" mods for the MST-1? Mine is arriving next week, and I want to be sure I am prepared right off the bat. TIA
aaronb73
08-01-2003, 12:39 PM
aluminum rear hex, not sure what else. I guess I'd look at another set of pistons (for drilling out the holes), oil and some of the new spring weights for some shock tuning.
There's been a few recommended setups floating around, has any of that changed? Any new tuning tricks?
speedydave
08-01-2003, 08:52 PM
I think Chad Bradley over on SGrid said he was using MBX5 steering ball ends(captured ends..not the ones that go from the bellcranks to the knuckles, but the ones that go from the servo's arm to the bellcrank) in the rear end of his truck. I was going to pick some of those up to try them out. I need to pick up my truck first though, too. :rolleyes:
aaronb73
08-03-2003, 10:09 PM
I was wondering what needle settings I should be at with the mt-12 engine. Unfortunately nothing was included in the kit. Out of the box it looks like the high needle was out four turns, not sure about the low needle.
I've got about ten tanks total through it, seems pretty rich on the low end. High end is about 3 1/2 out or so. I've maybe turned the low out a 1/4 or less from factory.
Took it out to race today, went pretty easy on it. With the tuning it's at and not going over 1/2 throttle I managed to keep up.. hehe . I did survive what i thought was going to be an expensive crash. A truck stalled out about 3/4 down the back straight, I came right at him at a good clip... only thing that happened to me was a ball cup popped off : ) . I'm really liking this truck!
pumpkinfish
08-04-2003, 03:18 PM
The setup I am using is (I have the kit + MT12 engine):
30 shock oil in front, 35 in rear
1° toe-in all around
4° rear toe in (P/N L0110E)
1° Aluminium Rear Upright (P/N L0118)
Aluminium Front Lower Arm Mount (P/N L0122)
1° front toe-in
Losi pre-mount rear tires Step Pins (Red)
Ratzas Carbon Fiber Top Plate
Ofna Air Filter (P/N 17003)
I think that is all. I will have to scan in my setup sheet when I get time.
aaronb73
08-04-2003, 03:59 PM
pumpkinfish: Just out of curiosity, what needle settings did you end up at with the MT12 motor? I just put a post on the nitro thread here. No manual in the box, just looking for other's settings so I know when I'm getting in the right ballpark.
I followed Jason Ashton and Chad Bradley's setups, only thing I really changed was the front pistons were drilled out 1.6mm instead of 1.5 (couldn't find that sized drill bit :) ). I'm using 25 wt losi shock oil all around. On our rutted and bumpy track it worked well, I just ordered some grey springs, I'm thinking I might try them just on back shocks first.
Here's Jason's settings I pulled from his post on rc-racing forum:
Oil........................200wt mugen
piston...................1.5 drilled
spring...................stock (silver)
travel....................full
shock pos..............mid hole on arm; mid hole on tower
pre load clip...........3mm or front arms level
camber pos...........outside hole on bulkhead with 1mm washer under
ball stud.
camber................-1 deg.; .5 degree toe in
Rear:
oil........................300wt mugen
piston..................1.6
drilled
spring...................Stock (Silver)
travel...................full
preload clip..,..,,,...15mm or rear arm level
shock pos.....,......inside hole on arm, out side hole on tower
camber pos..,.......upper outside on bulk head, outside on hub
camber........,......-1 or -.5
toe in..................4 deg suspension mount, 1 deg hub
wheelsbase......... 1mm in front of hub
RAYMAN1OO7
08-09-2003, 04:09 PM
why isnt anybody posting? i still havent got my mst-1 yet because i have been looking for a 97-2001 jeep cherokee to put a rubicon express 4.5" superflex lift kit on it($870), ill have to see when i put the lift kit on to see if the rear driveshaft binds, if it does then i have to get a slipyoke eliminator kit and a new rear cva driveshaft, so i cant get an rc car yet. see, my mom will let me get stuff like that but not an rc car, i guess she wants me to spend it wisely. come on people, post your mst-1 pictures, i know there are people out there with them. now if i do get one of these, are the parts gonna be a lot harder to get then a losi xxx-nt?
aaronb73
08-09-2003, 09:19 PM
I guess we're all too busy out there driving them :)
I'm using the setup I posted earlier with the grey springs on the back only. It's a good setup, if you can stay on the throttle there's just a slight push, let off and you've got all the steering you can handle... This has become my favorite car to drive!
My question: I've got the slipper on rather tight (2 1/4 out from fully tightened), I do here a little chirp on hard takeoff (made sure that's not my diff), should it be tighter? I'm also going to check out why the clutch seems to be engaged at idle. It's not spinning enough to make the car creep forward on the ground, but it's not good to have them constantly engaged.
For parts go over to nitrohouse.com, they have the parts you'd need, and you'll be happy when you see how much replacement parts cost. Also, if your local hobby shop goes through horizon hobby for parts they can order what you need.
Good luck!
speedydave
08-10-2003, 12:19 AM
Your clutch could be engaging for a couple reasons. Either your idle is set too high, or your clutch spring is worn out, which is causing the shoes to overpower the worn-out spring, and allow them to partially engage on the flywheel.
G24racer
08-10-2003, 12:41 AM
Is 200wt oil, 20wt. oil? ...and is 300wt=30wt?
aaronb73
08-10-2003, 10:00 AM
speedydave: I took the motor off to look at it today and oops! got a little too much blue threadlock on there. Seems it got off of the screw and onto the outside clutch bearing, washer and shaft. Makes sense, the output shaft is spinning with the clutch bascially locked on to it. I should be seeing a quicker takeoff and cooler temps now.
G24racer: I've read it's about 5 less. ie 200 wt mugen = 15 wt losi / ae, 300 wt mugen = 25 wt losi / ae...
aaronb73
08-10-2003, 11:20 PM
Bummer, something else went wrong with the clutch, still sticking. Even so I managed to take a 2nd place racing today :D I think I may have converted some losi truck guys too!
I'm looking for a new air filter, the stock one that comes with the mt12 seems more geared for on road use. Our track here gets dry and dusty, what's a good one to get? I've been looking at a motorsavers, but not sure which one will work. Thanks
speedydave
08-16-2003, 03:05 AM
Can you guys please post some body-off shots that show the wiring for your trucks? I'm having trouble finding a good, safe(guaranteed safe) way to wire the truck. Today I was out practicing and the other guy that runs at the track with the MST1 was there, and let me drive it. It handled really well! I'm looking forward to getting my truck running. Unfortunately, shortly after the run, his receiver pack blew up(at least 2 cells literally exploded). We think this was because a wire got caught and somehow shorted, causing the cells to overheat and explode. I'd kinda like this not to happen to me, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
aaronb73
08-16-2003, 09:08 AM
If you look at the metal brace and the upper deck behing the throttle servo you'll see two small holes. Route the wire from the rear of that deck then along that brace and use a small zip tie through each hole to hold the wire. I put one more zip tire to hold it on the rear shock tower.
If that didn't make sense I can bust out the digital camera and snap a quick pic
speedydave
08-16-2003, 02:54 PM
That'd be awesome if you could get a quick pic. I do know what you're talking about, however, just that it looks like that's way too close to the flywheel and spur gear. I was going to route it how I used to route it on my GT(in between the carb and the head on the engine, with a piece of slit fuel tubing around it), but then I run into other problems.
aaronb73
08-17-2003, 09:24 AM
Ok I've attached a picture...
Still having problems with the idle! I've never a problem with this before, I guess I can't tune an engine, or maybe just this one :(
I tried flipping the clutch shoes around, kit setup has them on in a "trailing" position. If you reverse how the manual says to put it on you then have it set to a "leading" position. There's like no slip on the clutch, it'll give you tons of snap and takeoff power! Now if I could just get those damn shoes to stay off the clutch bell for a proper idle...
aaronb73
08-17-2003, 09:30 AM
Ok, i'll try adding a picture again
speedydave
08-17-2003, 03:30 PM
Thanks! :)
RAYMAN1OO7
08-20-2003, 11:04 PM
hey, since you have a digital camera, could you post some pics of your truck with the body on and off, i havent seen too many "owners" pics, all i have seen is the articles in RC CAR and RC NITRO, and i havent seen one with that carbon fiber upper deck, is that from ratzas,and about the shocks, how do you load the bottom seals? is there a c-clip, or a screw on cap. and one more thing, is the chassis that the truck comes with 7075 hardened aluminum? or just 6061 hardened? i still havent had time to get one of these trucks, i hope sometime in the next month.
speedydave
08-21-2003, 12:08 AM
I can't find anywhere where it says what type of aluminum the chassis is, but it's 3mm thick, so whatever it is, it's gonna take a hell of a hit to bend it. The seals on the shocks are just two o-rings and two white plastic spacers, put in alternately(o-ring, spacer, o-ring, spacer), then secured with what I believe is called a G-clip(see attached picture below).
speedydave
08-21-2003, 12:14 AM
The carbon fiber top deck is indeed from Ratzas (www.ratzas.net). I haven't gotten one yet, but I definitely want to! Here's a pic of the top deck(from Ratzas' site):
http://www.ratzas.net/store/catalog/images/mst1rt.jpg
And installed on the truck(also from Ratzas' site):
http://www.ratzas.net/store/catalog/images/mst1rt1.jpg
I don't know where you can order them, except for from Ratzas, but here (http://www.ratzas.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_65&products_id=359) is the page where the top deck is found on their site.
Alright, here's a pic of my truck with the body on, but I can't take the credit for the paint, a local guy did it.
speedydave
08-21-2003, 12:20 AM
And here's a body-off shot:
http://www.******.net/media/IMG_0171.jpg
And in case any of you care, my 4 year old AE 5/64 wrench(also used for 2mm on this truck) snapped at the handle(and the setscrew is stripped...doh!) tightening the last screw on my truck(engine mount screw). :( Time for a new wrench(maybe set?).
aaronb73
08-21-2003, 07:08 AM
if you need a tougher chassis (stock is pretty damn tough) JT Racng makes a cool one...
http://www.renegaderc.com/shop.mv?Session_ID=3F44B5DF000272DB0000259F0000000 0&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RRC&Product_Code=JT4018
Goes for about $60-70...
I was thinking about getting a 1:8 buggy but after a recommendation i think i might get one of these trucks, i've never owned a nitro car, only electric tourers and i fancied a change to offroad.
Is this a good kit to get started with?
Im thinking of getting the kit only version (I can get it from a mate who works in a LHS for only $300) and i quite like the look of the kit and it'd be a great way for me to get into Nitro racing and it'd give me a chance to see if i want to buy an MBX-5 or something similar.
Aaron:
I was looking at that chassis only an hour ago, looks very nice and only $51.99 + P&P :D
aaronb73
08-21-2003, 12:07 PM
This truck has been one of the best kits I've ever put together. Everything fit together well, all the parts are high quality and cheap (price) to replace.
I've run just under a gallon of nitro and haven't needed to readjust the diff, no broken parts (even with my bad driving). I could never say that about my old losi drake truck. :D
Takashi
08-23-2003, 04:56 PM
Hi, does any of you guys know where
i can find Kazzamoto's aluminum parts?
or if you can sell me one, i'd like to buy it
I'm looking for an aluminum front bulkhead
and rear upright 2degree
Thanks
pumpkinfish
08-23-2003, 11:46 PM
http://www.nitrohouse.com/options,_mst-1.htm
speedydave
08-24-2003, 01:13 AM
I finally ran my truck for the first time today. I normally run Expert 1/8 here(Delta RC in Antioch, CA), but I ran sportsman 1/10 today because I haven't run 1/10 for a year, and I needed to get used to the truck. In the qualifiers the servo saver nut kept backing off. Does Mugen not supply an o-ring to go in there, or did my kit just not come with one? I just threadlocked it for the mains, and it held, but it made qualifying pretty difficult(I ended up qualifying 4th). Thanks to the threadlocked servo saver nut, I could actually steer in the main, and barely took it. I really like how this truck handles! The main thing I noticed, that some former Mugen truck drivers(now drive Losis) told me, is that the diff gets gritty/notchy very quickly. Has anyone else noticed this? The truck I bought has been sitting for a year, so if there were updates to the diff I probably don't have the new parts. Have there been any updates to the diff balls or rings? Other than that it seems like a great truck!
OldskoolGT
08-24-2003, 10:14 PM
Mugen does not include an o-ring to keep the servo-saver from slipping.
I can't comment on the diff thing, my truck just sits in the corner unused. I am too busy racing my 1/8 scale buggies. :)
speedydave
08-24-2003, 11:16 PM
I'll probably end up running both at the same time eventually, but it's a lot of work to get two gas cars running in the same day. Besides, I stole the receiver from my MBX5 for the MST1, and the steering servo in my MBX5 blew up. :( Damn things are so expensive!
pumpkinfish
08-25-2003, 07:02 AM
Does anyone know where to buy the optional springs? Nitrohouse doesn't have them listed on their site anymore :(
I raced my truck this past weekend and the rear was all over the place. It kept hopping like mad even with no preload spacers. I made it to the A-main but retired after 3 laps when I was hit and had the rear steel turnbuckle get snapped. I guess its time for Lunsford's!
aaronb73
08-25-2003, 08:19 AM
L0508 Front Grey springs
L0509 Rear Grey springs
L0510 Rear White springs
Soft -------------- Stiff
Silver -> Grey -> White
I'm not sure why they don't list them on the web page, but they do have them in stock. You can call and order or what I do is just type in the extra parts in the comments section of the order page.
pumpkinfish
08-25-2003, 09:38 AM
Cool thanks! Are you guys running with captured ball ends on any corners? I was thinking of going this route but worried it will throw off the geometry. I have a problem with one of the ball cups popping off and was thinking of an alternate since the RPM ball cups are too tight and bind!
Buggy Master
08-27-2003, 01:12 AM
pumpkinfish, i use captured ball ends on every end except for the inside steering turnbuckle. i really like the mugen ones but you have the buy the end and the metal insert separate. the only time i had them break is on the front camber link turnbuckle when i hit a pipe really hard at a bad angle. other then that, no failures and they can take a lot of racing abuse.
pumpkinfish
08-27-2003, 06:30 AM
Do you have a part number for the captured ends? My LHS only has the Dubro ones and they don't look "beefy" enough.
Buggy Master
08-28-2003, 12:59 AM
ball end - c0111c
pivot ball - c0502
karl kobernus
10-01-2003, 10:46 PM
I need a good set up for this truck. I have tried several. What I need is one for a lomy sandy track and one for a high traction moist clay track. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Karl
Twist 2 Go
10-04-2003, 10:35 AM
Have you tried the stock setup? What didn't you like about it? I find it best sometimes to start there and make adjustments accordingly as to what is needed. I don't know of any "magic" setup out there that works everywhere. Anyone else?
speedydave
10-04-2003, 05:59 PM
Try Chad Bradley's setup (http://www.mugenracing.com/whatsnew/setup%20sheets/chadmst1setup.html). Start there, and make changes to that. The "12 coil firm" spring he mentions was used before the optional springs were released. I'm pretty sure that's the same as the optional Grey springs. All I did was move the front shocks in one hole up front on the tower, drill the pistons to 1.5mm, and used Losi certified oil, 30/25 F/R. I'm running losi red step pins in the rear, and losi red directionals up front, on a hard packed, mildly loose, slightly damp track.
liled11
10-10-2003, 12:45 PM
Hi, here's the link to an amazing mst1 for sale.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143782
pumpkinfish
10-12-2003, 09:28 PM
Chad Bradley's setup as of 8/28/03:
Front:
Oil...................200wt
piston................1.5
spring................silver
suspension travel.....full
ride hight............arms level
shock pos.............mid hole on arm, mid hole on tower
camber pos............outer hole on bulkhead with 1mm washer
camber................-1
toe in................1 degree total
Rear:
Oil...................350wt (Hard pack 300wt)
piston................1.6 (Hard pack 1.5)
spring................grey
suspension travel.....full + unscrew shock end 2 turns
ride hight............arms slightly above level
shock pos.............outer hole on tower, inner hole on arm
camber pos............outer upper hole on bulk head, outer hole on hub
camber................-.5 (neg 1/2)
inner toe.............4
outer hub toe.........1
hub pos...............middle position
diff..................fairly tight (back screw off 1/8 turn)
note Ive been using the RC10GT diff washer. you just have to make the
inner diameter of the washer bigger with a dremel. Ive found this
washer makes the diffs last 3x longer.
Anyone try running aother flywheels on their MST-1. I was wanting to use a Heavy MIP flywheel for a GT or a XXX-NT instead of that lightweight flywheel. I don't think the the MT12 needs any lightweight parts to make it scream:D
Any place have the Ratzas toplate in stock as their website shows it on backorder.
Kazzamoto
11-07-2003, 07:02 AM
The only reason you should have a heavy fly wheel on your motor is if it does not idle worth a damn. Generaly done with older style motors like the old CV. Leave it stock.
In your case you are useing it to smooth out the power band. Easy on the trigger....
Kazzamoto
11-07-2003, 07:06 AM
I've ran chads set up at every track I hit and never change a thing... I just throw the truck down and tune the motor. Thats it! Oh yeah, it's Mugen #300 and #200 oil not Wt. That would make things a lil bit stiff!
kazzamoto do you still have your website up and running. I tried it a couple of days ago and it did not seem to work. I would like to check it out if it is still workling. Not many places to check out MST-1 stuff.
What do you guys use to check your suspension settings (toe and camber)?
PCC I use the RPM camber gauge to check my camber. For my front toe in I just look at it and sometimes I measure the front and back of the front tire to see if I have any toe in or toe out.
I just finished building my MST-1 about an hour ago. Just need to paint the body and break in the motor. I did start it and run it for a couple minutes. The NovaRossi fired right up and idled damn good for just starting it up for the first time. Truck came out great and looks killer. Very impressive truck.
I used the Chad Bradley setup and the suspension feels really good. Very smooth overall. I like the bigger shocks the Mugen has. This truck might look like the Losi but after building both the Mugen is really different.
Can't wait to break it in some tommorrow. Damn its going to be cold!!!!!!:( Planning on running it next Saturday at a indoor off road track.
karl kobernus
12-01-2003, 11:21 AM
i have heard that of some guys are using the losi beveled washers in the diff? How will this help rather than the spring???
as for the servo saver. I've put a drop of blue thred lock on it and it seems to stay fairly well. If that doesn't work for me then I am going to CA the whole thing togeather.
pumpkinfish---Thanks for the set up advice
you too Kazz
fearlessone
02-08-2004, 12:12 AM
I just got my MST. And was wondering how much
i should turn in the slipper nut? Should I turn it
until the spring is fully compressed then back it off
1/8th turn?
I dont know anything about slippers.
How should I adjust the one inside the tranny?
I tightned it all the way until the screw is tight. Is that
too much?
colinradford
02-09-2004, 04:54 AM
That sounds way too tight for the slipper and the diff!
I'm at work so I don't have my MST-1 manual to hand but the stock setting is something like 3 turns in from having the nut flush at the end of the thread for the slipper.
To set the diff initially I find the best way is to take it out of the truck, get a couple of thin screwdrivers and put them through the diff outdrives to stop them moving. The diff is adjusted when you can just about move the plastic gear around.
pumpkinfish
02-09-2004, 03:52 PM
I set my slipper 2 1/2 turns from fully tightened. It has never given me a problem. I wouldn't go any loose than 3 1/2 and no tighter than 2 1/4. Just my personal tastes though.
fearlessone
02-09-2004, 04:39 PM
Holding both tires from turning, I can turn the spur gear
barely. Think thats ok? It needs to turn some doesnt it?
colinradford
02-10-2004, 04:11 AM
That would work for gear diffs.
The problem with ball diffs (like the MST has) is that they are designed to slip as well as the slipper so if you hold the tyres (tires if you are USAian!) and can turn the spur gear it may be difficult to tell where the slip is occuring.
A standard way to check the diff is to tighten the slipper all the way in (so it can't slip) and then do what you were talking about, hold the tyres and try to turn the spur. This will tell you how loose the diff is.
After that adjust the slipper nut like pumpkinfish says and you should be set to go!
Dingus
03-04-2004, 10:20 PM
Hey, I've got tons of MST-1 parts listed on ebay, just search for MST-1 or check my seller id: dmong2
thanks
wild gopher
03-07-2004, 04:21 PM
Nice parts stock, now I think i'll buy an MST-1 and part it out on ebay too!!!!